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Corner dress adult Pockets

3 different necklines’

3 different bodices lengths

6 different skirt lengths

3 different sleeve lengths

Size 34-58

This pattern is copyrighted, with all rights reserved.

You may print copies of the PDF for your own use. You may not make duplicate copies of either the printed pattern, or the PDF file to

share. You are not allowed to sell, trade, or share this pattern in any form.

Small home based business are allowed to sell finished items made from this pattern.

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Before you start:

Read all instructions before starting on your project

Seam allowance is NOT included, add your preferred seam allowance to all sides except on the fold, where you will add binding, or where advised not to in the cutting instructions. I usually have a 6 mm seam allowance since I use a Serger with a seam that is 0,5 mm wide. A stretchy knitted fabric like CL is suitable for this pattern. Prewash all fabrics before sewing to avoid color bleeding and shrinking. Measure the test square on the first page to make sure you printed it correctly. It should measure exactly 4x4 cm (or 2x2”) Make sure you are using the most up to date version of Adobe Reader.

You will need:

Sewing machine Scissor Thread Ballpoint needle (in machine) Wonder clips or pins Fabric Measuring tape

Fabric requirements

The pattern does not include seam allowance. Fabric requirements are based on fabric with a width of 150cm. Remember to factor in your seam allowance and shrinking of your fabric when ordering fabric. In addition, you will need fabric for binding and pockets.

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It is possible to print only certain sizes using the “layers” function in acrobat. Select the “Layers” tab.

Deselect the sizes you do not want to print, leave the last layer selected

When printing make sure your printer settings are set to “Actual size” and “Auto portrait/land- scape”

The files can be printed on Letter and A4.

Tape the pattern together as shown to the right. Tip: Cut of the top and left edge of each pattern piece. Line up each line so the triangles meet and form a diamond. Do not cut out pattern pieces before taping all of the pages together.

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European sizes (cm): Size 34 36 38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

54

56

58

Bust 80 84 88 93 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140

Waist 65 69 73 77 81 85 89 95 101 107 113 119 125 Hip 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 117 122 127 132 137 142

US Sizes (inches): Size 4 6 8 10 Bust 31 33 35 37 Waist 25,5 27 28,5 30 Hip 34,5 36 38 39,5

24 26 28 50 52 55 44,5 47 49 52 54 56

More photos of finished shirts, dresses and more of my designs are posted regularly on:

Instagram: @madebyruni (please tag #madebyruni when you post photos of your creations)

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/madebyruni/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/madebyruni

All my patterns are available for purchase at www.madebyruni.com several of them are also available as physical prints for those who prefer that. More tutorials and options on: www.patternsbyruni.wordpress.com

12 14 16 18 20 22 38 39 41 43 45 48 32 33,5 35 37 39,5 42

41 42,5 44 46 48 50

Corner dress

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Before you start

NOTE! The pictures in this tutorial are from the tutorial for the child version of the Corner dress.

The adult version has options for different lengths and necklines, and which version you choose is a only a matter of preference.

This dress can be made with both long sleeves and short sleeves, and there is even an option for color blocking the sleeves. You will have to choose which version you want to make before you cut into your fabric. You can finish the sleeves with binding or by hemming. For this tutorial I have chosen to finish my sleeves by hemming them. The bottom of the dress will be finished with a hem as well, but you can just as easily add a lace or do a rolled seam. NOTE: You must add fabric to the length of the dress and the sleeves if you want to hem them.

How to cut the fabric.

The pieces, such as the skirt, on which it says Against folded edge should be placed against the edge of folded fabric when cut. Other parts, such as the sleeves should be cut out mirrored. This

can be done by placing the pattern piece on folded fabric as well.

However, it is not necessary that these pieces are placed against

the fold. Illustrated in the photo of the front piece. Seam

allowance should be added at all places where two pieces are

sewn together.

Pieces – Bodice

Those are the pieces for the bodice.

Back x 1 (Cut on fold)

Front x 1 (Cut on fold)

Sleeves x 2 (Mirrored, 1 right and 1 left) Twist/color block for sleeves x 2 (Mirrored, 1 right and 1 left) Binding for the neckline

Pieces - Skirt

Skirt x 2 (Cut on fold)

Corner dress

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Pieces - Pockets

Optional

Pockets x 4 (Mirrored, # right and 2 left)

How to sew the twist/color block on the sleeves

Optional step.

Place the parts for the color block right sides together with the sleeves, pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that the color block piece matches the pieces for the sleeves as there is one left sleeve and one right sleeve.

Sewn

This is what the sleeves should look like when the color block pieces are sewn on to the sleeves.

How to sew the sleeves to the front piece

Next step is to sew the sleeves on to the front piece, i.e sew the raglan seam.

Corner dress

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How to sew the sleeves on to the front piece.

Sew the raglan seams.

Place the sleeve right sides together with the front piece, pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips. The sleeves are higher on the back than the front, so the short side of the sleeve should be pinned to the front piece.

How to sew the sleeves on to the front piece.

Sew the raglan seams.

Repeat for the step above for the second sleeve.

Sewn

This is what it should look like when the sleeves are sewn to the front piece.

How to sew the first sleeve on to the back piece.

Sew the raglan seam.

Place the back piece right sides together with one sleeve, pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

Corner dress

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Sewn

This is what it should look like when the first sleeve is sewn to the back piece.

Next step is to bind the neckline. If you do the binding manually, follow the instructions on page 16-17

Binded

This is what the neckline should look like when the binding is done.

If you want to bind the sleeves instead of hemming them, I recommend that you do the binding on the sleeves now.

How to sew the second sleeve on to the back piece. Sew

the raglan seam.

Place the back piece right sides together with the second sleeve, pin in place and sew where I have marked with clips.

Sewn

This is what the bodice should look like when the sleeves are sewn to the front and back piece and the neckline has been binded.

Next step is to sew the side seams of the bodice.

Corner dress

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How to sew the side seams.

Place the front and back piece right sides together, pin in place all the way from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the bodice and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

Sewn

This is what the bodice should look like when the side seams are done.

Next step is to hem the sleeves.

How to hem the sleeves

Fold the hem. I added 2 cm for hemming, so I have folded 2 cm over on the lower part of the sleeve.

Sew with a stretch stitch of your choice.

The bodice is done

This is what the bodice should look like when it is done.

Put it aside while you sew the skirt.

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How to sew the pocket pouch to the skirt.

Optional

The pocket pouches must be sewn on to both parts of the skirt. Place the pockets according to the markings on the pattern.

For instructions on how to sew the pocket pouch to the skirt, see instructions on page 13-15.

How to sew the pocket to the skirt.

Optional

Pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips. Sewn

Optional

This is what it should look like when the pocket pouches are sewn to the skirt. Repeat for the second skirt piece.

How to sew the skirt

Place the skirt pieces right sides together, pin the side seams, and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

For instructions on how to sew the pockets, see instructions on page 13-15.

Corner dress

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Sewn

This is what it should look like when the pieces for the skirt are sewn. Next step is to sew the skirt on to the bodice.

How to sew the skirt on to the bodice

Turn the skirt inside out.

Place a clip to mark mid front and mid back on both the skirt and the bodice.

How to sew the skirt on to the bodice

Place the bodice inside the skirt right sides together. Match the side seams on the skirt and the bodice, and the markings mid front and mid back as well. Pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

Sewn

This is what it should look like when the skirt is sewn on to the bodice.

Now all there is left to do is to hem the skirt.

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How to hem the skirt

Fold over the fabric on two sides

Press with an iron and pin in place.

How to hem the skirt

Fold over the fabric on the other sides as well.

Press with an iron and pin in place.

How to hem the skirt

To get nice even corners on the skirt, you can use a glue stick to ensure that all layers of fabric stays in place when you sew, but you can also use extra pins/clips on the corners.

Sew your hem line with a stretch stitch of your choice.

Done!

The fabric used for this dress are from Hjartahertzman.

The machines used for this tutorial are from JUKI Sweden.

Hidden side seam pockets

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How to mark for the hidden side seam pockets

Transfer the markings for the placement of the pockets from the pattern on to the front- and back piece of the skirt, by marking with chalk, a needle or a small clip in the seam allowance.

How to mark for the hidden side seam pockets

The markings for the pockets are illustrated with a clip in the picture. Align the top of the pocket pouch with the markings on the pattern. Keep in mind that these markings are without a seam allowance, which means that the pocket pouch will be placed above the marker with the amount of seam allowance you have added. How to pin the pocket pouch on to the front piece

Place the piece for the pocket pouch right sides together with the front piece. Pin in place and sew with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips. The pockets can be sewn with an optional stretch stitch of your choice or by using a serger. I have chosen to use a sewing machine, as I think it is easier to get at nice transition between the side seam and the pocket that way.

Sewn

This is what it should look like when the pocket piece is sewn on to the front skirt.

Hidden side seam pockets

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Sewn

Once the pocket pieces are sewn on to the skirt, i usually press the seam allowance towards the pocket.

How to sew the pockets. – sew a dull stitch through the

seam allowance

Optional

To get some extra stability to the pocket opening, you can also stitch the seam allowance to the pocket. Use an elastic stitch if you are doing this, te x twin needle or a narrow zigzag.

Sewn

This is what it looks like when the dull stitch is done. I have done an elastic straight stitch on this part.

Sewn

This is what it looks like when both pocket pieces are sewn to the front of the skirt. Repeat the steps above for the back piece of the skirt.

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Binding

How to sew the side seams

Place the front piece and the back piece right sides together. Make sure that the pockets are aligned. Pin in place all the way from the top of the skirt, around the pockets, down to the bottom of the skirt.

How to sew the pockets

Since it is easier to sew a sharp curve with a household machine than with a serger, you can sew a few cm with an elastic straight stitch in the transition between the skirt and the pocket before sewing the entire side seam with a serger. (Marked with the red arrows in the picture). Alternatively, you can sew the entire side seam with a household machine. How to sew the side seams

Sew the side seam with a stretch stitch where I have marked with clips.

Sewn

This is what it looks like when the side seams are done. Repeat the above-mentioned steps for the other side seam.

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Binding

Binding

Measure the opening or the edge where you are going to add binding.

Calculating Mine measures 14 cm. Take your measure and multiply by 0.8 (or 0,75 if you are using cuff). For me, this means 14 * 0,75 = 10,5 cm. I cut out 2 pieces that are 10,5 * 4 cm (length * height) because I will bind the pocket openings.

Pin and sew With right sides facing right sides, pin at the ends first. Then stretch, to pin evenly along the entire band. If it is a long section, I usually split in the middle a few times to distribute the binding evenly. Sew!

Fold over the binding

Then I fold over the binding, and pin from the ends before sewing with a stretch stitch, in my case a narrow zigzag.

This gives me a narrow edge band.

On the next page I will show you how to make it a little wider.

Binding

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Trim the edges Trim away any excess of fabric on the back (or remember to cut a narrower stripe next time) Admire your beautiful craftmanship.

For a wider binding

Before folding over the fabric, i sew a straight stitch along the entire band, about 1 cm from the edge.

Fold over the binding

That leaves me with a binding that is about 1 cm wide. Sew with a decorative stretch stitch.

DONE!

Here,