Cook's Illustrated 082

8/13/2019 Cook's Illustrated 082

1/36

M HW EEM OOE

Roast Chickenand Vegetables

Perfect Chicken, Perfect Vegetable

Griled Prme i

Best Diner RosRich Buttery. and Easy

Pork TederloinSimple Skiet Method

Quick TomatoSauces

Applesauce CakeBig Apple Favor

Rating Saut PansPricey Modes Fee th Heat

Knowing When Food Is Done

Cider Vinegar Taste Test

Better Crpes Suzettehicken and Rice, Ltino-Style

Perfeting Mushroom Lasagna

wwwcoos I I st r a t e d c o

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A

owdere versus Fresh Lemon Juiceve ou eer ried powdeed lemon produc

led rue mon? How does i compre ws lemon juice?E L L E N l D O L E

SUTH RL GTN, VT

rue Lmon is powdered "crsllzedmn subsue mde of ciric cid, mlxrin, lemn juic, lemon il, nd scorbic inendd for us in cooking nd bkig nd sesonng I is vilble in 285-ounc

kerop jr (equilen o te juice om 20mns) nd n indiidul-servingsized pckesollwing e mnufcurer's guidlines, we

Does powderedmon uice oerue" lemon flaor?

esed is produc gins

rel lemon juice n lemonde,glzed lemon cookes, nd oe w one nd lmon

Our sers unnimouslfound e True Lemondid no mesure up e reldel in lemonde Wile e"rel lemon lemonde wsbrig, r, nd lemon, True Lemon lemonde sed(nd loked) like "sugr

wer, wi in of "felemon or We g simil

resuls wi e lemon cokies: inensl fres ngrel lemon jice ce roug espcill

ell in e icing becme mued nd sligly "riil wen True Lmon ws usd In e e,wever, sml moun of e powder provedbe decen eplcemn fr squeezed slcelemonen comes o geing ru lemon vor, prefer rming fres emons, especill wen

king recipes require los of juic Forverges ne only sps of lemon juice,wever, sprinkle of e powdered suff wil

rk in pnc

acrss the onEurope, eggs r kep on e couner, wle

re in Americ we re old o keep em eige Cn ou expin?

TT SMIT

LV EL AN D L

According o U Dermen of Agrlture, ll eggs sold in U supermkes muswsed nd snized before beng rnspored

d sred emperures no iger n 45

C O M P I D B Y S A N D W

degrees Fenei e mus remin riged (e UDA recommends soring eggs 40

degrees) for wo min resons o keep exisingbcei om rpidl mulpling nd o sopddionl bceri fom enering roug esell, mde porous becuse wsing removes proecive uer ler cled e cuicle ecuseeggs sold in e Europen Union re neerwsd, e cn be sore unreigerd n cool, dr plce u ere in e es, don'ven ink bou keeping our ggs ou on ecouner

Recpe Speak: ' Hea'omeims ere isn' convenien or sfe plceo pu o pn If recipe ss "o or

"remove om e, do I rell need o ke epn off te burner, or cn I jus urn i o

M K E P E T RU E L L I

PL MUTH, I D

We wen ino te es kicen nd broug sucepn of wer o bo severl s, recordingis emperur cge over reminu period i s on op of te sme burner (turned o sopposed o siing on riv on e counerope on he o gre of te gs burnr, e wern sucepn remined 0 degrees iger n

wen e pn ws remved o e counerop

Wen pn ws le n n elecric burner, emperure difference ws even grer: wer rmined 30 degrees or

Whie es emperure differences probblwon' mer for lrge ps of sew or ps suce,we wondred if could dversel ffec moedelice, esensiive recpes nd ou, wemde re bcs ec of smpl pn sucend vnill cusrd pe llng, one bc ncompleel off e e wen dreced b erecipe, one le on e gre of gs burner,nd one l on e o coil of n elecric burnern e 30 seconds e skile nd sucepns on gs burner wile ddion ingrediens

o ake a pan o heat don ust tu othe burner Moe the an o another suace

C O O K ' U S T R T

were wisked in, no drse recion occin eier e suce or e cusrd en l

e elecric burner (wc rens e for ger period of ime), owver, e suce bedrker nd cmer, w sligl ol n ric nd glossy exue, nd cubecme ick nd ps

o e nx im recipe clls fr ddiingredin "off e, don' jus un ofburner (espcill if i's n elecric urner)e exr two seconds o move e pn pleely off e , eer ono rive or unused burner

Beter Way o Weigh asaI end o bu ps in blk nd keep i i

coninrs on coner en I need pof penne, I jus weig ou w I needspgei s rder o on sce Do oun tips?

GAR

HIAG

o measure ou pou nd of spagheti whou a scgaher a bun dle wi a dimeer of inches

l, spcious coninrssuc s a ecoee cnsrwork wel for olng upg on he scle, nd hs mo s less precou hn rrnging i on pl lrge bowl (Plce he cniser on e sclei o zero, en plc t ps inside) Anopin is o ger bnde of ps inspe of clinder nd mesure is dm

W've found pound of eir regulgeti or ngel ir ps mesues / icross, pound of spgei spgmesurs inces, nd pound f feumsurs 2 nc

Imrvsed Coling RcksOnce or wce e, I bke lo of piesproblem is, own jus one coolng rck Do Io buy more rcs, or is here n lrnive?

RIGET MAR

ENT,


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Te reason most recipes for pie (and oterked goods) call for a cooling rack is to allow foroer aow bo above an benea e iemmake sre it cools qckly rater tan retain

g residal ea. We prefer te rmly weldedrome cooling and icing racks sed by commer

al bakeies. Still, we nderstand ta bying vesix racks for te occasional baking spree is not

cessarily practical.Over te years, we've come across several clever

eas for makesi cooling racks sing commontcenware. Wen in need of an extra coolingrface, te following work well in a pinc toovide adeqae air circlation nderneat tee plae or cooke see overrned mn tns,verted dozen-size empty egg trays set side byde, empty 28-once tin cans opened on bot

ds, and canning-jar rings.

Frozen eef Pattesike to by blk packages of grond beef andeze inividal brgers so tey are ready for

e gll, bt someties I forget to deost tem.

old I thaw tem in a microwave before grilg, or can I jst toss tem on te e?

DAVD YANG

NEW YRK NY

We sed or trsty recipe for carcoalgrilledmbrgers to compare esly made pattes ttties tat were ozen and ten deosed in theicrowave and patties tat went straigt om eezer to te gill.Wen sing te microwave, we fond tat set

ng e nit to 3 percen power eled te ats taw evenly, preventing overcooked exteriorsd partially ozen interiors. Individal pattiesok one to wo mintes to deost, wile a large

S ?

plae of for took ve to eigt mines (ceckedevery minte aer itting e vemnte mark).ese microwavedeosted brgers ook abote same amont of ime to cook as te eslyformed patties, acqired nice grill marks, andtased jst ne. e frozen patties, owever,took nearly twice as long to cook on e grill,browned nevenly (te edges and part of te center browned wile te area in between remainedraer pale), and retained teir sligtly indentedappearance rater tan attening o. ey alsoexded more liqid and cooked less evenly taneier te es or te defrosted brgers.

So if yo form and eeze grond beef intopaties, we recommend awing em in terefrigerator te nig before or defrosing emin te microwave and grilling tem immediatelyaerward.

Wat's Good about Garlc PressesYor recipes call for mincing or pressing garlictrog a press. Is one metod better?

AURA U GFFRD

CHPPEWA FAS WS

Here in te test kitcen, we go trog largeqanities of minced garlic every day, so we likethe convenience and speed a garlic press oers. Interms of avor and qality, a good garlic press canbreak down cloves more ely and evenly tan naverage cook sing a knife, wic means betterdistribtion of garlic avor trogot any givends. (If yo're very procien w yor cef'sknife, yo can obtain a similarly ne and evenmince.) ll told, we tink te garlic press is tebes tool for te job. r favorie press, te ZylissJmbo Garlic Press (for te reslts of or testing,see Eqipment Corner, age 32), is comfortable

ound tis sma a um inu m ty at a ea maret a e months agos it used to poach qua i es?

DNNA RHEES

PH A

The ace you ond is not an e poache but it is used oheating anothe pe o sheed ood: snais Six inches in diametethe escaot pate o you ound is made o sinessstee though many today a cemic ee's ho it is used: Fit

the ppad snais soaed bached ad simmed i a coboui on i sh o ust stight om the ca) a stued bac intotheir shes aong ith an hegaric compound be e minutes beoe seing each butted escaot is paced in one o thecessed sections o the pate beoe being baed o boied unt i thebue mets and the escao a ed though e escaotscan be eaten dicty m the pate set on top o anothe pate ativet o a hot pad) i the hep o escaot tongs hich main taia gip on the s he hie th e snai is emoved ith a escaot oe ound seve ses o escaot pates as e as the togs ano onin e Se e Souces on page or odeing inoatio

hs escte, esct

pte, s sed f hetng nd

seng ht, btteed sn ls

S E T E M B E R [ C T O B E R

to se wile providing evenly processed gaBeyond ter main nction, garlic press

lso be sed to make a smoot paste of indally roasted garlic cloves, oilpacked snomaoes, pitted olives, or capers to mas a

vies to mince canned cipotle peppers prepare small amons of onion or sallo

Substtute for Greek YortI recently ran across a recipe that cled for

yogrt. I looked everywere and coldn't Can reglar yogrt be sed as a sbstite?

DAN E

CHESAPEA

Greek yogrt is ticker and creamieas more tan twice te fat of typical Americanstyle yogrts. Most brands of plain yogrt contain beteen 7 and 9 grafat per cp serving, wile FAGE Total Greek yogrt (te most widely available in e nited States) contains 23 grams Nearly all te wey (the watery liqid ta

rates om te solis) is strained ot of yogrt, giving it a ric,smoo textre tat issligtly ticker tantat of sor cream. Interms of avor, Greekyogr is fairly mild,t a sli gt tang. eseqalities make t idealfor dips and spreadssc as tzaziki sace (agalicy yogrt-ccmber sace tat becomestoo watery wen made

wit reglar nstrainedyogrt) or for servingdrizzled wit oneyand spnkled wit nts(a classic Greek desser). Altog Greek

yogrt can be made

When sined for24 hou, eguar

mik yogu (op) good subsiue for

creamier Grek (boom)

wit seep's milk or goa's milk, the FAGEbrand is made from cow's milk and is alsoable in skim, 2 percent, and ligt varietes

To make or own version of Greek y(essentially creatng yogrt ceese), we stllfat plain yogrt in a ne-mes straine

several layers of ceeseclo (paer or coffee lters also work) and se over a bcatc te wey. Aer 24 ors n e etor, covered t lastic wrap), te yogredced in volme by abot alf and acitick, ric consistency closely resembling Greek yogrt. Its taste was prety close as w

SEND US YOUR QUEONS We ill provide amen one-year subsc ription for eac letter e print. inqu i name ad dress, and daytime telepone n umber from eade, oos ll ustted o 4 0589 0244 or to not esfrmreadebcpresscom.


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Quick Tips: C O M P I L D B Y D A I D P A Z I O

Dried Berries in a Flashnsted f witing f stwbeies the fits t d befe di ppi nghem in melted chclte Phylli s

Kiigin f tnn Hdsn .Y ys he justwshed beies npe twels nd blsts them withblwde tuned t the

n het setting

Measuing by the Spoonful

How to Skn a EgpatRoving th charrd in ro a roatd la nt can b rutratin g an d ti conuing C hritohr Cox oallaha, la , u latic w to a u icwor oth i job

tr roating th lant ovr a di rct fla or und r a broil r unt il co ltlyot, cool to roo tt ur, thn w i t in o lay o latic w Cut oth to inch o th la nt at th t nd2 olding th latic w a ou would a tu b o toothat, uz out th lant lh, laving th in attachd to th inid o th atic w

ip ping mesuing spn i nt d ingedi nt then weeping css the tp with knif t level i t i s th besy t get n ccute mesuement. ut it cn ls b messy (nd smetimes tic) ppsiti n. w edesfnd wys t tidy thi ngs up

2

Find ing it i mpssible t get mesing spn int mnyj Hpe ismn f klyn

Y. uses ppe cee fite

s n intemedi.

Rth thn diing cuntewhen mesuing bking pwde cc fm j bx iviWilims f Wll Wll Wsh.

pts f this sim ple stin.

H di ng cneshped cee filte in ne hnd pu in geneus muntf the spice

Run duble stip f msking tpecss the p eni ng f the cntinecp up heping spnfl f theingedie nt nd level it by scping it ginst the tpe.

2 ip the me suing spn in t the spi ce s ing stight edge t level it 3 H di ng the cee filte t n ngle nd pi nch ing ne c ne cefully pu he excess bck int the sp ice c ntine.

nd U You i We will pvde a cmplimentay ne-yea ubciptin f each tip we pint. end yu tip name and adde tuick ip Ck' llu tated Bx 470589, Bkline 02447, t [email protected].

C O O K S I L L U S T R A TE D

Steak Elevatorst eci pes cl l f esting ste

ft cking t l lw he i ntejui ces t edistibte. In vitblysme f these jices lk tuining the nice cust. tt Pf ew Yk .Y. uses bwl televte the met p nd f

juices.

. Plce smll bwl in the cnte p lte n d pp the stek n t2 P the c llctd jics i nt

pn t mke sc.

Qcer Blanched Spinacn a rci call or blan cingnach, it an b oiling lot o waor a r 30 cond l ung Db

Browntin o Sattl h, thi ng u by hating th watr in atatt and ou ring it ovr th ach, l acd i a coandr

Boi l 4 to 6 cu o watr in a tattl lac ound o cland atd inach in a colandr tth i n our th bo ilin g watr ovth i nach in a tady tra to wSoc t nach with cold rn ni nwatr, uz ou t xc o ituthn u a dirctd in th rci


7/36

Keeping od WarmTird of burn ing buttr for popcorn

nd coching hr ahd potatowhil ti ng to kp th war ovrow hat, J Kiba ll of hi ladl phia ., found an a way to ta t h

a plac a catiron kill tovr a low fla, th n p lac thaucpan right in th kill t

Spot-ree Glassware

spl ng stemwe fee fwe spts, ndy G ldsb ugh

f Gthesbu, d., wshes thegsses by hnd nd nses them

th dslled wte, whch hsnne the sptpducng mpu

es f egul tp wte.

I.

Fl squt ble wth dstlledte. n se he gsses ns de ndu wth t he wte.2 . dy the glsses, fst upsdedwn, hen ght sde u p.

A Cut Abovelcng pculy he cussndwch n hf cn fce he fllngs ut

he sdes f he bed. Jn Hed mn f hndle, z. , e ths slut n.

2.

. Us ng bed knfe, cu t the tp slc e f bed n hl f befe pl cn g t ntthe ssembled sndwch

Gently hld th e p eces tgethe nd use the exstng cut t gude th e knfethugh the fllng nd the bttm slce f bed.

Crumb-Free Cake Lyers

Crisper Casserole CrustsTo kp a carol topp ing crip tvling to a potluc k di nnr, YvonSldg of Anchog, Alaa, placpapr towl or clan dih towl oth top of th dih bfor wppiin foil Sta fro th hot caraborbd by th towl i ntad ofdning on th foil and d ripping bonto th carol

tr cutting a cak round in hal f for a layr cak, it can b tric to kp th top layr intact upon roval Suzan n Marlow ofMon tral, Q ub c, ca up with thi foolproof thod to kp th lay nat

I 2.

U aking p to attach a 0i nch wid pi c of parch nt papr to th nonrtd dg of a long rtd knif2. Cut th cak layr in half, ding th papr through th cak a you cut Dtach th tap ro th knif, l aving th parch nt bn th cak lay ft up th cak to ov it bfor froting

Spie Orgaizernyne wh lcks the stge spce f dnl spce cbne ck

mght wnt flw the exmple f get Gmmn f wen und,

nt, wh devsed n ecent gztnl system tht keeps ll f he

spces t hnd.

2.

Fll smll pstc zppelck sge bg wh he des ed ded he b spce. tch seldh esve flefde tb t the p f the bg, n d gnze thebgs n plstc cntne she bx l phbetcl de.

S E P E M B E R O C B E R 5

Easier orning CoeeTird of tcking down a arincup v orning to ak coKvin Mc Cann of Spark, Nv , figout a bttr option praurinco into ind ividual co filt tack th coil ld lt in to an p co can or anotairtight contain r and tor it n frzr All h ha to do i gb onth filt fro th frzr and pointo th co akr


8/36

How to Coo im ib Outdoosettg a eep, lavrul crust this cstly cut eat ca b a ssy,

sky rea l i the ktch e w abut tak g t us e

Prie rib of beef is what caspecialoccasion food: It's priceyit's impressive and it feeds acrowd. But there's anoter reason

me coos rarey spurge on this deluxeast. To ae the ost of prie rib'sperior arbingthe thin ies of itrauscuar fat that avor and tenderize asey met awayost recipes ca for ongoing at a ow teperature. (Otherwisee outermost sections overcoo by the

me the center reaches ediu-rare.)

e ownside s a graybrown exteriorat's neither appeaing nor avor.

B Y S A R A H W I L S O N

cooed gray bads. To iniize arwhie searing the fatcovered periehad the butcher tri the fat layer owa thn ch.

Many recipes cal for cooing a ribon the boe woring fro the ieadeeper lavor is deveope this way. Hthough tasters notce itte avor atage. (Given a ri roast's huge mebone ratio and the ntense avor ipby a ive re that's not so surprisHowever the boes turned out t

ore iportat as protection eepinunderside o overbrowning. Unto give up the convenience of a boroast (easer carvig) I had y bureove the boes an then tie themonto the eat with twie.

rust to Gor

In the test itchen we sove this prob by searig the roast on all sides quiclya hot set before tossing it into a 250-gree oven. It's an effective ethod fortting a deicious charred crust withoutning the iterior but it's one that canmessy (sputtering grease) cumbersomepping a 7pound roast wth tongs) andhalenge to anything ess than a statetheart ventilation syste (billowingoe). Byond th wll charrd intnly o at crut li a gnrou lab o

ltingly tndran d rcty coodriu b

To mae this project ess dauting cided to tae a crac at oving the proedings outside. Not oly woud the gri maee smoe a oot issue but perhaps I coud arss that soe to itensi the contrast beweene crust and the metingy tener interior.

Now that the interior was right ite to iprove te crust. o achigreater contrast i avor an textuexperieted with coatig he ex

with a geerous ayer of salt. When

right a sat coatig prootes crust dopent by dawig out oistre

m ing the Fam esven the test itchen's success using the hybridvetop/oven ethod for prie rib y pas to transate the approach to the gri. With

hot re on one side of the gril and the othere ee of cols (a odied twolevel re) Imice the stovetop technique searig the

t o 20 miutes on a sufaces usig tongsstand it on each ed to get the at sides. Once

e exterior was browned I moved the roast toe cooer side of the grll and et it coo coved unti the center reached mediumrare.This rst attempt was probeatic to say thest. had a terribe tie wth areups during

Go o cooksilusredco ey in co de 906 for Hoedis

Crem ce ey in code 9062 for GrillRosted ole

Prime Rib for Crco or Gs Grill ecipes avalable until arch 200

the searing process as the roast's thic ayer of fatrendered and dripped down onto the coals. Andwhile the center of the roast reached a perfectmediu-rare the eat ha a thic gray bandaround the perimeter (especiay cose to the cutsides) indicating that the roast ha cooed at toohigh a teperature.

Had I bee wrong about the high-heat sear?I tried pacing the roast opposite the hot coals(without an iitia sear) repacing the d and

waitig. the coals died down the beef's teperature crept up to meiu-rare ( 2 5 degrees)

without developin g a ovecooed gray bad.The dowside was the cust. The two cut (at)sides were adequatey browed but the fatadenperieter had an unappeaing grayish oo.

The aswer was to combine the best deas ofeach method. ceary neee to spend soetie searng the roast but eavig the two cutsies unseared shave 0 minutes fro the process and avoide the awward step of standngthe roast up with togs. What's more reucgthe tie the roast spent directy over hot coals

went a ong way towar eiiating the over-

C K L L S T R A T D

6

just below the surface etting it evaporate once the seaing process begins.

atig for just oe hour did nothing buing for too ong was a bigger probem hours the oisture had dissolve the exterioad started to carry it deep into the roast. that's a tric the test itchen has used n recpes as a aternatve to bring ith primit deivered a uwelcoe "cured effect reay realy expensive corned bee. atiroast for three hours (one hour in the idgehours at roo teperature) was just ght.

hat about other avors? I ted a spicebut the spices were too strong for this deuxMuch better were garic an herbs especaly roseary. But the real coup cae whe I trieding a oest aout o soe avor with wchuns. though septics objected i pri("hy treat a preiu roast lie a por ser?) oe bite ended the contovesy. he savor penetrated only about half a inch inthuge roastbasically the outer crustleavajority of the pin iterior untaite.

Finay I ha draatic contrast in avo


9/36

xtue In evey sce, thee was a cunchy, satust, a hn ayer f skness, and a geneusanse f nk, jucy eu bee Nt ny

as the av exeence e ntense usng ths-astng ethd, but I had ket the ske

n mess ut f the ktchen. I ay never akeme rb nds agan.

- ST E D P E

C H C E RE 6 TO 8

u buche can eve the bnes and trcess fa f the ast; just ake sue thate bnes ae acked up ang wth the eat,yu need the t tect t verbwn

g. If the ny rast yu can nd s bneess,shn a tectve "bne aunu fee Ktchen Ntes, age 30, f nstuctns.ettng the ast stand at m teeaue f

hus t gng hes t ck eveny.eve the ast as s th seadsh Ceaauce (see Cks Exta, age 6) . F nstructnsn ckng a whe e b, as see Cksxta, age 6 .

fir-cu ( 3- or -rib) beef anding rib roa

(abou 7 pound) mea removed from bone

bone reeed exerior fa rimmed o inchabepoon vegeabe oi

Ground back pepper

cup koher aTwine for ing roa cu ino four or ix 2 -foo

engh (d epend ing on num ber of bone)

2 (3- inch) wood chunk

Dipoabe aum inum roaing pan

Rub as wth and seasn geneusyth eer. Sread sat n ed bakng sheet;ess ast nt sat t cat eveny n a sdes. Teeat back nt bnes exacty whee t wast, assg tw engths f tne beteen eacht f bnes and knttg secuey. Refrgeate

1 N G : Li he Prime Rib

as, uncveed, f hu, then et stand at t p atu 2 addtna hus.

2 Meanwhe, sak wd chunks n wae f h; dan. Abu 20 nutes befre gng,e t and btt g vents. Usng chneystare, gnte 4 uats chaca buettes (abut60 cas and bun ut artay cveed n t1n,gray ash, abut 5 nutes. Et cas nt g;bud ded tw-eve re by aangng cas t

cver ne-haf f g. Pace dssabe astngan n epty sde f gr. Pstn ckng gateve cas, cve g, and hea unt ht, abut5 utes; scae grae cean wth gr bush.

3 Pace ast n gate ve ht sde f grand sear n fat-cvered sdes unt we bed,tung as needed, 8 t 0 nutes tta. (If aeups ccu, ve ast t ce sde f g unaes de dn. en thughy bwned,tansfe rast t ce sde f g, be sded, t1 ts f bnes nted away e.Pace saked d chunks n cas. Cver g,stnng t ven ve ast t daw skethugh g. G-ast (d nt eve d f ateast hus unt nstantread theetenseed nt cente f as reads 2 5 degees fedu-ae, 2 t 2 hus.

4. Tansfe ast t cuttng bad and et est 20nutes, ghty tented wh f. Reve stngsad bnes, cut nt nchthck sces, and seve.

- ST E D P E S

l Fw ece f G-Raste Pre bf Chaca G thrugh ste

2 Sak 2 cups wd chs n ate f 30nutes; dan. Pace wd chs n sa dss

abe aunu an; set asde. Abut 20 nutesbefre gg, gnte g, tun a bunes thgh, cver, and heat unt vey ht, abut 5nutes. Scae gate cean wt g bush.

3 Cntnue th ece f step 3, tunngff a but ay bune (bune tha w eann dung ckng, pacng an wth wd chps

er are 3 beef ribs, nu mb rd in ascend ing ordr from the ron t o the ani ma to the back The irst ive ribs are te

uck sction ( through 5) the next seven are the rib section ( 6 hrough 1 2) , and the 1 3th is part ofth l oin Ribs 6

roug 2 , the rib section are sold as prim rib A seven -rib p rim rib roast can weigh as much as 20 poun ds en ough or

least 1 6 guests or smaler crowds btce oten divide the who pr im rib into o smalle r portions

I ST CUT: O U AVOITEe fitct roast consists of ribs

0 throgh 1 2 sometimes rib 9s incle too) ts lare center

eye of meat an bee flaormake this or preferre ct

COND CUT: TOO GISTYe seconct roast consists ofbs throgh 8 sometimes rib 9s incle too) ots of flaor

bt the aitional fat angristle make it less appealing

,\

\\

S E P T E M B R & T E R

7

TAM N T E R L L' S EA

Atr saring the roast's fat-covered perim

recty ovr th coas tn ser t to the cooer

with t he tips of th bones acin g away from te

n ray bure, and ckg wth dnce ast has been seaed and stnc sde f g as dected.

- ST E D P E W

C - S E C U S

Cbne cu extra-vgn ve ,nced gac, ad cu nced fesh seaves n bw. F ece f GRPe b, bushng aste nt ast aeng n ste 3

s 1 N G : I s e me RiWh r Prim rib i s something of a misnomr rg

used to rer to th most desibl potions of

rib sction th term became somewhat confu

onc the U Depatment of ricultur be

using the ab Prime as on of its beef-gclassiications e ds classi h mat acc

ing to at marbling and ageas well as by pPrim is the best, followd by Choic and

Pme-gd prim rib costs about $ 1 7 a po

while Chocgd pri m rib oes or about $

pound ditionaly, som butche oer d-

prim ribPrim-gd rib rasts that hav baged for up to a month to tndri th meat

concntt its lavo Daging dds anothe

to $3 to pr pond

To ind t if Prim-d p rim rib i s worth

prmiu m w cokd about $ 1 5 woh of b

in c luding sev Prim -gd, Ch oicge,dagd rib rsts n h ntir lot, there wno outright losrs but the experimnt was tFirst w don' t rcommnd spnd ing te extraon d-aging iven the intns favors imparte

th grill , any distinguishing nuancs wre lostth othr hand, in most cass th Prime cutsout th Choice cuts in terms o sprior mar

and thus, sperior flavor and textur iven

this meal w ill be a spl ue no mattr how youit, springing for Prim bf maks snse atouCho ice roast wi b almos t as good W


10/36

Ultit Di osy bte r ai ng d i n ne r l s u n ess ey ae rea l y ic , rea l y st, a nd rea l ly gd

I y expeiece, oee ie os e oe e iffeecebeee e pepio of biios e ovebi

s oe. We ee is' y ovece, e sik is of iy pos

s, I' feeig oveexee, i os e e s ie o be oppeo e e. I' sooe op fo

os seve eioce oes eo ickie ecipes epoy so

s ike igig-fs ises. Yes, ese ecipes o os ook e

, b ey o' o eogh iee og o eveop c vo. I, ey'e o c bee es yo c by e speke. If

goig o ke y o ie olls,y ve o be o e effo.

B Y A N Y A N A A R A

o se see bey b eso cos h ey copee i cose.Whil I fou os pblise e

o be ig o eggs be,s of sr sl ese eee oi skipy. I eesig oe sg 6 espoos) y oe ecipe I col . ikevo ols e ece of s I se e o espoos.

o PayngJs by geig he igeies igos ee cetiy bee okes sese h vo os eibel os of eggs, be, s sl. B I oe ies boo ipove hei vo e.

No, o be cle, e I sy ies, I o't e e cose, csty i ki. I e ich, so, ee, iy,

isee, pll- p l-eic ies, e ki e s so pso pilos. I h oe i goi I e o evelop fol o poce e bes sc ols

o y socs o ey eveope of vo. , secoy objecive, I ol y oveop ecipe co be pepe

I eize y og s sii ee oe of ic bes bioTiioly, bioche, ic i eggse i bue, egoes ises, he se co of hic is so,ise i e fige llos e yeok is gic soy so e vos tie o eveop. o I e soe

fo bioce ecipesch soft and tenderwth i d sweetnessthese din ner rolls are estserved war wth a pa t of utter

y s hog s o ke s piy ise os e e isig i he fige e e ex y

co siply be bog o oo epe bke. I soo iscovee t i s isibe o pei c o c e os o e ige. I eee oe eibe eho

gey i vce so s o fee p ie spce eie kice psuis. y, pepse os o ve bee so kigo e be.ee's ie of o ecipes o ee .ely seece fe t shoe poisee fie, b oe s ie eie. eee y e ols os s f s cooy ll , boig ols h ee sic be

isgise os eeke of yes. I oe

seeves go o o.

vo Budngee eog o y iii ess o eviseokig ecipe. I s vey bsic ilk, eee c stie oi) , eggs, yes, sg,, o kee ogee i sigxe fo fe ies. he og ises, ise, ises ai, is y bke.I beg by esig e i igeie o.e ecipe ce fo soe cke o, I

og i s o yig o see if i o

elp e ols eveop ig, ee cb. eexpeieig, og, I fo eve so of cke o e fo ovey so osio ee sce. e os i ebes exetee iy yet so esiieee e i -ppose o.

y o ecipes se ilk s e i i, fogoo eso. Wi e, e ols ee e, y, b. Beik e e se ky.Wi ik, e os ee so, ee, ic. I

eee e vice big exes gvebo scigo eige ik skiig off e ski fos o e sfce.Tis sep i iee es i os i bi oeeigh ige cb.

os so ie o ecipes c fo sigeegg. I fo o eggs poce oe vo bee exe. Be is piily esposiblefo he icess i olls. os of e ecipes i esec foe se 4 bespoos, b ses ogh ese os ee oo e. Sixblespoos pove e ie o he os

K

8

I e oe og, loe it o ise,spe oe ols. is ie I p e ifige sigh y, iho secoye foloig y I ook o e ols e ise. Whe pce i sy ioe es kiche ogy 80 egees), e

ose eve se ooz. coo epee, gi pce of six o seve e e olls ise evely oce bke, ei s speb.

To ke se l his ie b o s-o effo) s iee oie, I bc of sey ols fo e ske of cpiso. Bot bces e se ope,exte, bt e os e to ise oveig hoe, ice, oe copex voe of oig the vos i e og o evsoy i e efigeo oveig


11/36

You Can 't He lp the Heat,Get ot of the Kitchen

ese rs rise for seve ou on te counter so getting

e tempeture rigt is cruca At coo room tempeture

68 degrees te doug rounds soud doube in szeter sx or seven ou yed ing igt fu ros upon bak

g If tey rse n a spot tat's too warm te exterior wi

ce aead of te nterior the ros w rise uneveny and

pan fu o f dense mssapen rocs w em ee from te

ven If te eat n your ktchen is u npredctabe t a essonventiona coo spot ke a basement or a spar bedom

C O O P O O FUY OS

M PO O D E N S E O S

Yes, y os e o ys i e kig ey euie ie pig ki of beoes'). Bu ei supeio vo is o e

oes ivese. e ufoesee bous' be oveooke ig i e fige es e buk of e ok c be copee y i vce o ys, eve, I e fouu) . e y of sevig, e os o' e

eio, jus ie coue spce, e uick bus i ee bue 15 iues 400 -egee ove. No ecic kice is oxcuse fo e bs ece of ie os.

E S E C D E S

MAK E IX TEE N 3 N CH ROL L

o is ecipe, e oug is e e ose se eigee y o o befoeeig be seve. Be sue o p cco

gy, s e efigee os euie bou sixous o ise befoe ey'e ey fo bkig. Fo

e bes vo, e e os ise coo oo epeue, bou 68 egees. epeig o eb, is yes is kee s pi ise,uick ise, o pefec ise yes, o soeies s be cie yes; if i's ecessy ose cive y yes i is pce, see pge 30 fooe ifoio. If you cke ps ve kosick is, bke e os i 375-egeeove o oee e boig. is oug

sou be oise os; esis e uge o oe ou is eee o keep e ougfo sickig o yo s. e o uiy, e oug y euie oe ou ife o y y.

cup whoe mi k6 abepoon unaed buer, meed , p u

2 abepoon, meed, for bruhing on ro

before bak ing

6 abepoon ugar

1 eapoon abe a

2 arge egg, room empe raure

2 /4 eapoon ( I packe) inan (rapid rie) yea

3 cup 1 5 ounce) unbeached a -purpoe f our,pu add iiona four a needed (ee noe above)

1 TO THE DOUGH: Big ik oboi i s scep ove eiu e; es off e ui s fos o sufce, 3 o5 iues. Usig soup spoo, ski ski off sufce isc. sfe ik o bo of sig ixe 6 bespoos ee bue,sug, s; isk o cobie e ixuecoo. We ixe is jus o e oc90 o 1 00 egees) , isk i eggs yes uicobie.

2 ou o bo; usig oug ook, ixo o spee o sig ixe ui cobie,1 o 2 iues. Icese spee o eiu-o ke bo 3 iues oe; e pessei ge, og sou fee cky oisbu sou o sick o ge. I f oug is sicky, oe 1 o 3 bespoos ou.) oiueo ke o eiu-o ui coesive, esicoug s foe i sou ce sies of bobu sick o boo) , 4 o 5 iues oge.

3. sfe oug o igy oue ok sufce. e oug by 1 o 2 iues oesue i is e kee. oug sou

S T P - Y- T P J

be vey so ois bu o ovey soug sicks excessivey o s ofce, ke i ou bespoo ioug is okbe.) igy spy eui osick cooig spy. sfe obo; igy co sufce of oug iig spy cove i psic . eise i , -fee ocio ui ouvoue, 2 o 3 ous.

4 . TO SHE THE OLLS: o oou cke ps i cookig spy; seu oug ou oo igy oue ofce. P oug io oug 12 by 10-ige see iusio 1 , beo), gey pou i; sig fo ege fes foo oug io cyie iusio 2)ps, o oug bck fo ui cis bou 1 8 ices og of eve Usig bec scpe o cef's kife, cu ci f cossise, e cu ec f io 8size pieces iusio 3).

5 . Wokig i oe piece ie ig eiig pieces covee i psic

kice oe, fo oug pieces io su ous i sio 4) . Se piece of ououe e of ok sufce . oosey cuou oug o iecy ove i); ppyig pessue o oug, ove icicu oios. ckiess of oug ok sufce cicu oio sououg io soo, eve b.) ge os i pepe cke ps oe i ceseve spce evey ou eges) ius5 ); cove cke ps i psic p igyi cookig spy, e cove ps secuefoi. Refigee es 24 o up o 48 o

6. TO B THE OLLS: Reove fo psic p) o cke ps; e os-fee coo oo-epeue ociooube i voue os sou pess ec oe), 6 o 7 ous. We os eoube i voue, jus ove ck o ie posiio e ove o 400 Reove psic p. Bus os i 2spoos ee bue; bke uni ee bo, 14 o 18 iues. oo os i pie ck bou 3 iues, e ive oe-ive os coo 1 0 o 1 5 iuesBek os p seve .

Pt ough nto 0 nch Ro ough o fo even cl n- Usng ec h scae o chefs Usng ccua oon gentl ange ouns n an orectage der stretcing to 8- nc engt. knife cut cyln der nto 6 peces form doug peces nto rounds center seven around edge

S P T M R [ T R


12/36

Flvor-ck rs oto ucsHow yu make a sauce that es j u stice t th e rbu st lavr seas al tmates

h e dog days o f summer prouce theonly fresh tomatoes of the year t forpairing with pasta. Packe with bracingacidi and sweet fruitiness, they taste

ay tomatoes shold yet rarely do. Seizing theportunit, I spurge on several crates of tese

specimens and set out to create a few quickta sauces that would capitalize on their ll,ust lavor.

Previously, the test ktchen has ound that onethe best ways to prepare tomatoes for pastaces is to skin, seed, and chop them into smallces before simering them in a skillet withlic and olive oil. With te skllet's ample cook

surface, it's ony a matter of minutes beforeecess moistre evaporates and the tomatoestly slump into a heary sauce. Any type of

mato tastes e cooked this way: ipeness, notet, is key.quickly iscovered that eek ingredients

ent going to cut it here; tey simpy dulledliveliness of te tomatoes. So I cast the usual

sley and ricotta aside in favor o potent herbs spices, cure meats, and assertive ceeses.

ey rosemary, smoky bacon, pungent feta, spicyperoncini, and simiar ingredients poited

the fresh qualies of tese gutsy tomatoes yetmely shared te spoight. A cautious touch,wever, was crucial; a spoonl too mch trew

sauce out of whack, obscuring the toatoor. with most things in life, balance really

d of

E S H T T S U C E W T H

S E N D C

MAK N O U GH TO AUC I PO UN D O F PATA

cetta can be substituted for the bacon. yrt tbular pasta is well suite to this sauce. Ir toatoes ae tart, you may need to add up

teaspoon sugar.

ounces bacon ( 6 slces) cut crosswse nto

-nch strps

tablespoons extr-vrgn ove ol

med um garc cloves, mnced or pressed through

garlc press (abot 2 teaspoons)

teaspoon m nced fresh rosemary

teaspoon hot red pepp er flakes

pounds rpe round tomatoes, cored, peeed ,

seeded, and cut nto -n ch peces (about

3/4 ups)

tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

B Y A T T H C A R E

teaspoon tabl e salt/ teaspoon ground black pepper

Granulated sugar

2 ounce s Parmesan cheese, shaved th n wth

vegetabe peeler (ab ot cup)

l Cook bacon in 0inch skillet over mediumheat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 8 to l 0inutes. Using slotted spoon, transer bacon topapertowellined pate. Pour o bacon at ropan and iscard.

2 Return skilet to medimhigh heat. Adoil, swirl to coat pan, and add garlic, rosemary,and pepper akes. ook, stirring constantl, until

garic is fragrant but not browned, about 30secons. Sir in tomatoes and cook until tomatopieces lose their sape to orm chnky sauce,about 10 minutes. Stir in parsley, salt, pepper, andsugar to taste. Toss sauce with pasta an serve,sprinling Parmesan and reserved bacon overindiviual owls.

E S S U C E W T S

P P P N C N N D E

MAK N O U GH TO AUC PO UN D O F PATA

Use spicy (not mid) pepperoncini to baancethe richness of the sauce. Farfae pasta is a goodcoice for this sauce. I your tomatoes are tart,you may need to add up to teaspoon sugar.

3 tablespoons extravgn olve ol

2 med m grlc cloves, m nced or pressed through

garlc press (about 2 teaspoons)

3 ounds rpe round tomatoes, cored, pee led,

seeded, and cut nto nch peces (about

3 /4 cu ps)

4 ounces salam, ct nto /- nch-thck sl ces,

s l ces ct nto halfmoons, and half-moons cut

nto /- nch wde stps

tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

cup thnly s l ced pepperoncn draned andrnsed

teaspoon tabl e salt

/ teaspoon ground black pepper

Granulated sugar

1 2 ounces fres moare la cut nto nc h peces

and b otted dry

. Heat 2 talespoons oil and garlic in 1 0inchskilet over medium heat ntil garlic is fragrantbut not browned, to 2 minutes. Stir i tomatoes;crease heat to medumhigh and coo until

K R

tomato pieces lose teir shape to form chsauce, about 10 minues, stirring in salami 8 minutes to eat throug.

2 Stir in oregano, epperoncini, salt, pepand sugar to taste. Toss sauce, mozzarella,remaining taespoon oil with pasta and serv

E S H T T S U C E W T H

E E D N E

MAK N O U GH TO AUC I PO UN D O F PATA

y short tubuar or curly pasta works well this sauce. If your toatoes are tart, you need to add up to teaspoon sugar.

4 tabespoons exta-vrgn ol ve o

medu m fennel bulb , trmmed of stalks, ha

cored, and cut nto /- nc h dce (about

2 med um garlc cloves, mnced or pressed thr

garc press (about 2 teaspoons)

teaspoon fennel seed , lghtly crushed

Pnch saron, crushed (optonal)

/ tea spoo n hot red pepp er flakes

2 strps orange peel each 3 by I nch) plus

3 tablespoons u ce from I orange

3 pounds pe round tomatoes, cored, peeled

seeded, and cut nto n ch peces (about

3 /4 cps)

3 tablespoons chop ped fresh basl l eaves

/4 teaspo on tabl e sal

/ teaspoon ground black epper

Granulaed sugar

l Heat 2 tabespoons oi n 10inch skover meiuhigh heat until simmerig. ennel an cook, stirring occasionally, until ened an browne aroun eges, 4 o 6 minAd garlic, ene see, safron ( if using , peakes, and orage p ee ; cook, stirring constaunl fragrant, abo ut 3 0 secons . Stir in tomand cook un tomato ie ces lose their shap

or chunk s aue , aout 0 minues2 Remove and iscar orange peel. St

orange juice , basil , salt, pepper, and sugar to tToss sauce and remaiing 2 tablespoons oil pasta and serve.

Go o coosiusred Key in code 9063 for our recipe for

omato auce with Roasted eoasted Garlic, and rika

Key n ode 904 fo our recpe omato auce with Mint, F aninach

o Recipes avaiable unti March I. 2007


13/36

Btt at ck a VtablRoasti ng a few vegetabl es a o ng wth the c h ckn ma kes fr an easy s d e d is h , r ight

G easy s id d ish s o re l i ke it . We set ut to f -tu th is flawed S un day- ight c las

? B Y S A A H I L S O N E

I tacked brnng rst. The test ktchendard formua for brn ng outry s l cu sat and 1 cu of sugar n a ga on of water3-ound chcken, t takes an hour for thto enetrate te meat y Wth an 18turkey, t takes about s hours I gured thng tme for my 6- to 8-ound roaster wosomewhere n between Sure enough, a fetod me that the magc number was justfour hours . Whe that knd of wat mayfor a once-a-year hoday feast, t seemoverk for a tca Sunday-nght suer

out vaous amounts of sat and sugar, Ithat ung the concentraton to 1 cus(er gaon of water) gave me a y sechcken n just wo hours

or roasted egetables that are drp pi ng wth ch cken laorno t chc ken greasema ke su re the serin g platter se irst place the cic ken and egetabes meet

Net, I tred adatng the "sma brd rmethod for ths arge chcken: bascay, wfor 20 mnutes, the other wng u for 2utes, then breas t u unt done ( about 20 mmore) addtona 10 mnutes or so foste yeded eveny cooked whte and darI eermented wth varous combnatoven temeratres ( startng out hgh, decartway th cookng, and so on) but fou

the best method was aso the ease st: 400 from start to sh

ke communsm or suness tannng , roastng chcken and vegetabes together s farmore aeang n theory than n ractce It's a temtng rooston: Wth

chcken erched on a roastng rack drngavor juces nto the eanse beow, t seems ahame not to toss n a few vegetabes to soak u that yummy, chckeny goodness A bonus sde

dsh, no ss or forethought requrd.nfortunatey, when t comes to chcken and

egetabes, kng two brds wth one s tone us uy means vctmzng the vegges They may behock- ofchcken avor, but they're aso awashn greasy schmatz and overcooked to a mushy

onsstency Ceary, ths cassc Sunday-dnnerombo requred more than sur-of-the- momentrovsaton My goa was to come u wth aece that gave each comonent the attentont deservednot just the chcken I wanted jucy

meat, crsy-thn skn, and vegetabes nfusedwth chcken avor, not just chcken fat.

Ccken AccountEven though the vegetaes were no doubt therue vctms here, the chcken had a few grevnces of ts own Most Coos roast chcken reces

cal for a 3-ound brd. That's ne for two orthree eoe (or four on a det), but I wantedenough chcken to feed a hungry famy So Ioted for the bg brds n my suermarket's outry caseseccay, the "oven sfer roastersWeghng n at 6 to 8 ounds, these chckenswoud easy serve s

ow that I was n bg-brd terrtory, however, I had a new set of robems Frst, wheI'd anned to foow the test ktchen's usuachckenroastng rocedurebrnng (to seasonthe meat and kee t most) and lng (sothe dark meat and whte meat cook eveny)woud have to adjust the tmes for ths arger

Ths chcken had jucy, seasoned mecrs, werend red skn, but the band ae somethng to be desred (Sat ony enavors f there are , n fact, any avors to enFrst, I tred stung the cavty wth aromonons and fresh herbsbut nobody coua dfference Lemon and gac were betst too subte. Takng a cue from a Coos rece, I tred addng a few garcand ba eaves to my brne Ths reay gotattenton Graduay ncreasng the amoeach, I found that skng the brne wth t

brd Second, because mass-roducedchckens generay taste band, the Bstng a Bla nd B rd' s Flavrtest ktchen tends to surge onchckens from boutque outry urveyors (such as mre or Be vans), whch offer sueror avorn echange for sghty steeerrces. Unfortunatey, these "boutque brds mosty come n etteszes; te bg chckens n my suermarket are amost ecusve of theband, mass-rodced varety

S P T M T

Mass-produced chickens are notorously bland and ther more "bo utiq ue cou nterpa arent widey aalab e in arer sizes W

the p roblem by adding two u l heads o garc and six bay leabrine aong with the usual salt and sugar


14/36

d of crued grl c nd x bay leave gave heken grea vor once cooked.urprngly, e only hng my collegueced w huge mprovemen n chckenor, no garlcy me perm ed by by leaf. I n, no one aer gue ed my ecre ngreden. w going o n? I urn ou h e enzymeed llnae) reponble or grlc' chrc

c be deacvaed in he preence o very

h concenron o al. Wh "grlck maed, he garlc n he brne conrbued

y mellow, vory qule o he chckenh ce, u wa he docor ordered.

ase okeyignng my aenion o he vegeble, I uck

h he uul upeccarro, onon, pr, nd poaoe. I new om experence hng e cuup vegeble rgh long wccken wa problemc. The eer volumerey uce overwelmed hem, overcookddn' em of r. learly, he vegeneeded le rong me han he chcen,

I had o ge rd of oe o e gree. I redrng o he uce om he roang pann he chcken wa moly done, ddng he

eble o a vrully -ee pan. hle bg mprovemen, e chcken connued

ender a a nihed cooking, mng eeble oo grey l.

A h pon, I wa begnnng o wonderer greae- ree , ccken-ned vegge were ppe drem. er all, he e kchen ad

dy gured ou he ecre o gre crmelvegebleong em wh ome ol nd

nd rong he in pn. In epare pn,

. Mybe he ecre o gre roa chckenvegeble wa o keep he chcken and vegle a ar way rom each oher poble.

T' when I de my r real brekrough.roed he vegeble epraely, I gured

uld conrol precely how much mngled hem. My dea w o ue he e kichen'ng recpe or roed roo vegeble, replche ol wh n equal moun o chicken a.n beer, I med hng o he vegebleed during e ccken' lour re (

help redribue uce hroughou e), I could erve hem ppng-ho along whccken.

T C H N I Q U 1 C E C K N G C H C K Takng a chc kens tem petre can be trc no matter how good yor thermometer r the most precse readn

follow the procedres below Also ts mpoant to test both breasts and both thighs in m tple spots

W TE M EAT

nsert the thermometer into the thckest part of thebreast from the neck end, keepng it pallel to the

breastbone The whte meat s done when the tem

petre reaches 1 6 degrees

W new hope, I plopped ye anoher chckenno he rong pn, my cu-up vegeble e ready. A oon a he ccken w hedcooking, I moved o cung bord o re

and oed e vegeble w 3 blepoon ofchcken lvaged rom e pn, ranferrngem o a bakng hee nd no he oven. Thrymnue ler, dpponmen loomed The vegeable were greay and poorly browned. Evenwore, hey barely aed lke ccken all.

The brownng problem I olved ealy, bycrankng up e hea rom 400 degree o 500degree. Bu he grene lngered, dd hepuzzlng lack o ccken lvor Deeced, I wpckng n or e dy when I noced he dar,cky fo (browned b) encrued on heboom ohe roang p. I wa h momen

ha I reazed he error o my way. O coure!I wan' e ccken a h conned all heavor bu e ondhe buldng block of lavoror every pan auce I hd ever mde.

Favor aveTo ke advange o e ond, I r needed opreerve aer an hour nd a hal o cookig,wh hd ccumuled h e pan w eer oohrdened o ue or u pan burned. Werdded o e pan e begnnng evaporaedoo quckly. Bu by ddng l cup o wer he one-hour ark (wen he chcken ppedbrea de up), I w ble o ve e ond h

DA RK M EAT

nset the thermometer at an angle nto the thicke

part of the thigh located between the drumstick an

breasttakng care not to h t bone The dark meat

done when the tempetre reaches 1 5 degrees

w already developng and enure ha heo he drppng would connue o enrchlqud. When I ubued cup o orebochcken broh for he waer, he drpping en

up even rcer.Once he chcken w ly cooked ( and

removed rom he pan), I poured e pan en no a earor. I oed he a he vegeble, bu how wa I gong o nduce he defed drppnge ole genchcen avoro e vegeble? When doo erly, he lqud ndered brownng, gme ulra-chckeny bu uerly oggy vegeExpermenng w me nd moun, Ihe be reul when ddng cup o he ded drppng o he vegeble aer 25 mnen cranng up he oven o he brol e

or 10 inue o ge he vegge goodglzed, rrng hem once prwy hroughor he greae cor, I ound h dicrdngchcen f comple el n fvor o plan vegeol ade for le odd en vegeble and clee.

A lwed mprovon no longer, h clly compoed veron of ro chckenvegeable had been ranormed no ophcaed m eal or company ( no u my orgfamly ). Who would hve hough ha he eo ulra-chckeny ccken and vegeble wke ure he chcken and vegeble never ll le no unl ey i e ple?

1 p s Whch omes F irst th e h cken o the Vegetb es?

oast chcken wng sde p for 3 m n tes Roast chcken, other wng sde p for 3 m intes Fp ch cken breast sd e p po r broth nto pan, and roast for 4 mnnsfer chic ken to cuttng board to rest and por dri pp ngs n to fat separator Reheat roastng pan whie oven heats p to 5 degrees Toss vegetables wth o aed roastng pan and roast for 25 m ntes Tu oven setting to bro and p or defatted drpp ings n to pan tossi ng wth vegetables Brol for m ntes

O K S I S T T 1 2


15/36

S C C K E W E E E S

ERE 4 TO 6

he time give i the recipe are deiged toork th a 6 to 8-poud chicke. t' po

ble to roat a lightly maler bird (aroud 5oud) by reducig the roatig time i tep 4

o about 25 miute, but if all you ca d are- to 4-poud chicke, ee the follog recipe

or To Roat Chicke with Root Vegetable.egi carvig the chicke a oo a the vegtable are placed udereath te broiler. If uig

medium potatoe (2 to 3 iche i diameter) , cut hal f uig large potatoe ( to 4 iche iiameter), cut ito uarter. We prefer a large,raditioal (ot otick) roatig pa for thiecipe; if uig a otck roatig pa, reaiom turig up the ove to broil he cookig

he vegetable ad tr them every 5 to 7 miuteo eure they do't become too dark. If yourroiler doe ot accommodate a roatig pa,otiue to cook the vegetable at 500 degreetil doe. You ca ubtitute te followigeaoal vegetable for ay of thoe i the recipe:eet, celery root, feel, rutabaga, ad turip;eel thee vegetable (ecept for the feel) adut them ito 2 to -ich piece.

en an ne cups table salt

cups sugar

2 med ium heads galic, outer papery skins

removed, cloves sepated, unpeeled , and crushed

6 bay eaves, crumble d

whoe chicken (6 to 8 pounds) , gib ets emovedand discarded

Ground black peppercup owsodi um ci cken broth, or more as

needed

Vegeae pound small ( 1 to 2- inch diameter) red

potatoes, scubbed and unpeeled

pound medium carrots, peeled, cut into 2- to

3- inch p ieces, tapeed ends left whole, large

upper portions halved lengthwise

pond parsnips, peeed, cut into 2- to 3- inch

piec es, tapered ends eft whole, large uppe r

portions halved lengthwise

pond small (2- to 3- inch diameter) yelowonion s, peee d , root end let intact, and

quartered

3 tabespoons vegetale il

h teaspoon table salt teaspoon ground back pepper

1 . FO THE HEN AND BNE: Diolveat ad ugar i gallo cod ater i arge coaier Stir i garlic ad bay; immere chi cke adeigerate util lly eaoed, about 2 hour.

2 djut ove rack to middle poitio adeat ove to 00 degree. Set V-rack i large

ameproof roatig pa ad lightly pray withotick cookig pray. Remove chicke frombrie ad thoroughly pat dry ith pa per towel.

6 Scatter vegetable i igle layer iig pa, arragig potatoe ad oio cdow. Roat, without tirrig, for 25 mi

3. Seao chicke o all ide ith pepper; etig ide up o prepared V-rack ad roat for30 miute. Remove roatig pa from ove ad,uig 2 wad of paper towel, rotate chicke oother wig ide face up; cotiue to roat for30 miute

4 . Remove roatig pa from ove ad , uig2 large wad paper toel, rotate chicke breatide up. dd 1 cup broth ad cotiue to roatutil chicke i golde brow ad itatreadthermometer regiter 60 degree ierted ithicket part of breat ad 1 75 degree i thicket part of thigh, about 40 miute. ( If eceary,add more broth to maitai thi layer of broth obottom of roatig pa. ) Trafer chicke to cuttig board ad let ret, ucovered, while roatigvegetable; remove V-rack from roatig pa .

7 While vegetable are roatig, pourcup liuid from fat eparator; dicard remliuid ad fat Remove roatig pa omad heat broiler. Drizzle liuid over vegad broil, 5 miute. Stir vegetable, coatiwith reducig liuid, ad cotiue to bro

teder ad deep golde brow, about 5 mTrafer vegetable to ervig platter

8 . While vegetable are broilig, carve cTrafer to platter with vegetable ad er

T W S C C K E S W

E E E S

I f you ca' t d a large chicke at the it' poible to roat two 3- to 4-poud cuig a imilar method.

5 FO THE EGETABLES: Whle chicke iretig, adjut ove rack to middle poitio adicreae ove temperature to 500 degree. Uigwoode poo, crape browed bit i roatigpa ad pour liuid ito fat eparator. Returow-empty roatig pa to ove ad heat utilove reache 500 degree, about 5 miute. Tovegetable with oil, alt, ad pepper.

Follow recipe for Roat Chicke ithVegetable, ubtitutig to - to 4-poude for 6- to 8- poud chicke ad reduciig time to 1 hour. I tep , reduce wigroatig time to 20 miute per ide Cotroat chicke a directed, reducig breaup roatig time to 30 to 40 miute.

r E s r 1 N G E o u 1 P M E N r : Rsin g RsA roasting rack is as ungamorous as is essential It raises poult and

roasts out of the drpp ings wh e giving the oven s h eat easy access to the

whole suracea good start toward a wel rendered exterior I n a 1 997

testing we ked the Vshaped Norpro Nonstick Roasting ck ($9.75).It hol ds roasts snugy n place and we prefer ts xed shape since adjust

abe cs have a nas habit of adjustng when you least expect tRecently more V-cs have appeared on the m arket Are any preferab e

to the mode weve been usng n the test kitchen ?

Rght away we noted that not a Vracks are actualy V-shaped Thesight bend on the Progressive V Shape Non -Stck Roastng ck ($ 3 49)

barey qualiies as a "V and eaves no room for roasting vegetabes u nder

neath The nnovatve Cusip ro Roast and Serve ($ 8 9 5) s shaped ke a

trough wth a hinge at the center Remove the dowe fro the h nge andthe ck come s apar dropping the roast onto a platter or cutting board

Whe t worked ine ths rack was another that didn't eevate the roast

enough and ts sze I nches by 1 1 inches) makes t a tight squeeze

in all but the aest panIn addtion to shape handles were a decsive factor Tal vertcal han

dle s make removi ng the rack easy even wt h bul oven mtts H orizonl

handl es or no handles at a make removal neary im possble In our testswe also notced that handle positon matters When ocated on the shortsdes of a rectangular rack they can get n the way of the roasting pan'shandl es We prefer handes postioned on t he lo ng side of th e rack

Te AllClad Non -Stck Roastng ck ( $ 4.9 5) s our top choice It 'sarge enough to hol d o small chickens and has the features we li ke Wth

ts handles on the short sde the Norpro s a dstant run eru p If you' ren the market for a new roasting pan you should consider our favoriteroaster the Caphaon Contempora Staness Al Season n ($99)

whch nc udes a rack that's just as good as the Al -Cad model arth Ci ngngsmth

S E P TE M B E C B E ]

N E FVO TEe stury a rac as g

anes n a conenent ocat

OD FVOTEe orpro rac wou be be

wt anes on te ong s

O N Gaow sape an no an

rener te rogresse rac us

N O N EOu r aorte roastng pan r

apao n ncu es a great r


16/36

Ipovig Sut ok doBnl ss , lan , a d tnd r , p rk tnd r l i n ffrs p l nty f h p r th

ti m rssd w kn ght ck If n ly t ff rd pl nty f lavr

h no bnes, mnmafat, and wde avalabl-ty, pork tenderlonhas plenty gong for t

en coked propery, t has a tender-rvalng that of beef tenderlon, the

uxe roast that gves us let mgnonthe downsde, ths ultraean cut hasultramld avor that needs a majorst ong marinades an hybrd sear-

roastng technques (the latter prong avorl browning) help remedy

h deciences, but they also take theme cook a long way from the ream of

noss mealanted a recipe for a fast weeknight

ner, so I was le th ony a smalnal of tools at my dsposal to enhancer and ensure juicness Skllets andck pan sauces were in; brning, marnat-

and heatng a gril or oven were out

B Y D A D P A Z O

tin te Por into peTaking a cue rom the more amous iet mi gnon our "p orkmignons a re thickcut to keep them u icy and moi st

rst problem was the tenderlon'song, tapered shape Vacuumsealed indvdu-

or in sets of wo, the loins looked lely packed, dentcally sized sausages Onceacked, however, t became clear that they var-grealy length ( om 9 nches to 14 nches)

shape And when packed n pars, the tos were almos guaranteed to be substantalyeren n weght, makng t trcy to porton

m out nto equal servngs uckng the talunder the thcker secon, then tyn it nto

eveny shaped roast, xed hat problem Butking the enderloin whole ( ether panroasngautng) took too much tmemore than 30uteslcng the tenderlon nto thin medallions

de for unform tcness , but some pe ces werery nces wde we others were barey anh Attempts to cheat nature th creatve basng proved unrelable and tedous at abouttng the smaller parts tcker and pound-them to equal width? More conssent, yes,thanks to the expanded surface areatheyured sauting n several baces

Go o coosillusredco ey in code 906 for ou recipe for

Hoisinese uce epe avalable until arc , 207

Overcookng was an even bgger problem wth

these slce d medallions I anted to get as muchbrownng on the extero as possble to provdetextural contrast wth the tender nteror and tomprove avr But wth such thn slices, I hadonly two hoces: overcooked medallons witha pronounced, avorl sear or wan, gray dsksNether was an acceptabe cmpromse

To get adequate brownng wthout overcook-ng the nteror, I next tred ncreasng the thckness of the medallons by ncrementsrst halfan nch, then nch, 1 nch, and so onunlthey began to resemble mnature versons ofbeef tenderlon lets At 2 nches thick, my "porkmgnons were developing a dark brown sear

before te neros had cooked through t nches, the nteror was cooked trough but stiljucy and the top and bottom srfaces were beautlly browned ese rounds also offered theadvantage of tng nto a 12nch skillet in onebatch Treatng pork tederlon lke beef ten-derlon was really dong the rck! Several tastersobjected to leavng the sdes unbrowned, so Imade a pon to stand the medalons on thersdes (usng ongs durng he searng process

Cuttng the pork nto 1 nch peces le oddbits om both ends ofthe enderon, and even te

K'S I S R T

1

slces from the central secon were problemmakng for oblong pieces that would op oand "aten awardly during cookng rathan mantanng her tdy cylndrical shapemt the number of odd pieces, I scored theon near the ta, creang a sma ap of mthat folded underneath the larger half o yhe rghtsized medallion (se e the illustrationpage 1 5 ) To prevent the pok om oppng oI took another cue om beef tenderoin and the meat wth wie, whch gave t much bestructure (Blanched bacon, wrapped aroundthck medallons and astened wth toothpwas another effecve method tat also gavedsh a smoy avor )

in isi n ocest ts pont, my pork enderloin medions wjuicy and ncely brownedand they coud acooked n jus one bat ut I wanted to bthe lavor even more g to revstnoion of a marinade, I decded o te advanof te deep o (the browned bts) le nskllet by comng up with a few easy pan saucemake while the medallons were gven a vem

ute rest, which allowed te jices to redistbevenlyFollowng the est ktchen's usua mehod

pan sauces, I cooked aromatics n the hot skuntl fragrant, deglazed the skillet with brthen reduced the broth along with other avongredents Given how mid pork tendelonbe, I gravtated toward bold avors dingpantry for staple tems, I balanced the sweetof mape syrup wth balsamc vnegar and swhole gain mustard For a more exoicstll easyspin on this sweet and sour hem

G , B

While developig ou r recip or pork tenderloin mdalwe struled to achieve a deeply seard exterior wiovercookig the interior ur s lutio ? Cu thicker mlios which can sped more tme n the pa

G O O D B A DG "


17/36

ombned orange juce, hosn sauce, gnger, andesame ol, sprnklng chopped scallons over the

medallons at the end for color and contrast (seeCook's Extra, page 14, for the recpe) Both ofhese sauces were read n mnutes

M al saucea more complex mx of dcedpples , apple cder, apple brandy, cnnamon, sha lots, ad thmewasn't thckenng as much as

anted durng the pork's vemnute restng

erod. he soluton was to cook most of thengredents n a saucepan beforehand, then pourhe reduced lqud nto the skllet to nsh

H C K C U P K E D E

E D S

ER E 4 TO 6

erve th a pan sauce (recpes follow). We preferatural to enhanced pork (pork that has been

njected wth a salt solution to ncrease mostnesnd avor), though both work n this recpe

egn checkng the doneness of smaler meda

ons 1 or 2 mnutes earl; the ma need to beaken out of the pan a lttle sooner.

2 pok endeloins ( I o /4 pounds eac)

rimmed oa and si ver skin cu crosswise i no

nch peces and ied (see poo below) ;

hnne r end pieces removed and ied ogeher

accordi ng o i llu sraons above

Kosher sal and ground blac k pepper

2 ablespoons vegeable oil

eason pork wth salt and pepper Heat ol n2nch skllet over medumhgh heat untlhmmerng Add pork cut sde down and cook,

wthout movng peces, untl well browned, 3 tomnutes. urn pork and brown on second sde,to 5 mnutes more educe heat to medum.

sng tongs, stand each pece on ts sde andook, turnng peces as necessar, untl sdes are

ell browned and nternal temperature regsters45 to 1 50 degrees on nstantread thermometer,to 12 mnutes . ransfe pork to platter and tent

ghtly wth fo; let rest whle makng pan saucerecpes follow), then serve

P E U ST D S U C E

M A K E E N O U G H T O A U C E 2 P O R K T E N D E RL O N

2 easpoons vegeable oi l

medium onion halved and sl iced hin

abou cup)

cup low-sodium chcken broh

cup mapl e syrup

3 ablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 abespo ons whole grain mu sard

Table sal and ground b lack pepper

Pour o an fat from skllet n whch pork wasooked. Add ol and heat sklet over medumeat unt shmmerng Add onon and cook,

Q TURN NG HE EN D P E C E NO A ME DAL L ONtr cutting th tndroin s into mmtric inc h md lli ons, you wi in vibly hv fw irrgury spics ft ovr Th tprd nd pics cn b scord foldd , nd tid into md ions s shown hr rmi ning sm lr pics togthr into mdll ion s hp, mking su top nd bottom surcs r flt

cor tndloin s tprd ndpc

2 d i n hlf t incision Ti mdion with in , msu r top nd bottom su rcs

strrng occasionaly, untl soened and begnnng to brown, 3 to 4 mnutes Increase heat tomedumhgh and add broth; brng to smmer,scrapng bottom of skllet wth wooden spoonto loosen an browned bts. S mmer untl lqud

s reduced to cup, 3 to 4 mnutes. Add syrup,vnegar, mustard, and an juces from restngmeat and cook unt thckened and reduced to 1cup, 3 to 4 mnutes longer Adjust seasonngs wthsalt and pepper, pour sauce over pork, and serve

P P E C D E S U C E

A K E E N O U G H T O A U C E 2 P O R K T E N D E RL O N

Compete step 1 of ths recpe ether before ordurng the cookng of the pork, then sh thesauce whle the pork rests.

I cups apple cde

cup lowsodiu m cicken broh2 easpoons cide r vinegar

cinnamo n sick

ablespoons unsaled buer cu in o piece s

2 large shal los m inced (abou cup)

ar apple such as anny Smih co red peel ed

and diced smal l

/4 cup Calvados or apple lavored brandy

easpoon m inced esh yme leaves

Table sal and gound black peppe

skllet from heat and ad d Calvados. eturto heat and cook about 1 mnute, scraptom wth wooden spoon to loosen brownAdd reduced cder mxture, any juces frong meat, and thme; ncrease heat to m

hgh and smmer untl thckened and rto 1 cups, 3 to 4 mnutes Off heatn remanng 3 tablespoons butter, andseasonngs wth salt and pepper. Pour saupork and serve mmedatel.

C W P P E D P K E D E

E D S

Place 1 2 to 1 4 slces bacon ( 1 sce for eamedallon), slghtly overlappng, n mcrsafe pe plate and cover wth plastc wrap Cmcrowave on hgh power unt slces shrrelease about cup fat but are nether b

nor crsp, 1 to 3 mnutes ransfer bacon ttowels untl cool, 2 to 3 mutes Wrapece of pork wth 1 slce bacon and secu2 toothpcks where ends of bacon str nsertng toothpcks on angle and gently them through to other sde (see photo, Season pork wth pepper (do not salt) anceed wth step 2 of recpe for hckCuenderlon Medallons (tme for searnma be sltly onger)

1 Combne cde, broth, vnegar, and cnnamon stck n medumsaucepan; smmer over medum-hgh heat untl lqud s reduced to1 cup, 10 to 12 mnutes emovecnnamon stck and dscard Setsauce asde untl pork s cooked.

w f M n

2 Pour off an fat from sklletn whch pork was cooked Add 1tablespoon butter and heat overmedum heat unt melted andfoamng subsde s Ad d shalots andapple and cook, strrng occason-all, untl soened and begnnngto brown, 1 to 2 mnutes emove

B U TC H E R ' S TW N E B A C O N T W I N

ick md l ions ow for mor brownin b ut thy cn p ov

pn To prvnt this, ti ch pc with in or strip of prcook

scurd with o toothpics

S P M B R 6 O C O B R


18/36

nwig Wen F DneFew itche ishas are re rustratng tha irr cigHe re ' s h w t c d rght every ti e

T H R E E M E H O D S F O R

Five Senses: easoned cooks rey on taste toch ,

sght, sme l and even sond t o know when foods

are don e. Novice c ooks often forget that these ve

tools are aways avaa ble .

Time: Many coo ge themselves n troble by

savishy foll owng times in recipes . Al t mes are

estmates, an d actal tmes wi l vary wth dierent

ovens, stovetops, a nd gril s. The exact size and

ntia temperatre of ngredents wl aso dramat

cay aect their cooking time In the test ktchenwe se tmers to rem nd s to check foods early.f a recipe reads, "Bake for 60 m ntes, set yor

t imer for45 or 50 mntes

Temperature: In the test ktchen , we rey on

dgtal nstant-read thermometes. D a-ace ther

mometers are slow to regster and can t ead hghtempet res associated wth candy mak ng or fy

ng (m ost models ct o arond 220 degrees I n

addition, the sensor on dal- face thermometers s

ocated at east nch p from the tp , so these

thermometers won t work n shal ow lqi ds or

thn c ts of mea. n dgta thermometers, the

sensor is located at the tip.

TA N T- R E A D T H E R M O M E T E Rat t uy: r test ktchen winn er i s fast (t

ters tempet res from 5 to 57 degrees n

nds , accte, an d perectly proportioned (the

n g probe s capabe of reachi ng the ve center ofaest roast. A ecent test of nine nexpensve

els fond sevel reasonaby priced thermomete

the featres we ke, ath ogh a l were sower

or test ktchen w nne r.

* T E S T K I T C H E N W N N E R *

EMOWORKS uperFasthermape, $ 85

B E S T B U Y

C N Prccu rae Q450 $ 7.9 5

Ths chart presents ideal seng tempe ratures. Sin ce the temp erature o f meat wil continue t o r se as ts rests, shoud be taken o the heat just beforet reaches the desired tempeature (This phe nomenon doesn 'toccur

with p ot and sh. These temperatres ( n degrees Fahrenhe it reflect or oi nion s regardng optma flavoand ju c ness. The U.S . Department of Aricutu re recommends cooking beef, amb , vea steaks and roasts, and

ish to 1 45 degrees, pork anda ground me at to 1 60 degrees, and p oult to1 80 degrees to el mi nate potenti

food- borne pathogens.

MDIM-R M D IU M -DON

Fish 0 2 0 40 *

M 2 5 3 0 40 60 * *

Pork * * 4 5 60 * *

Poult * * * 60 t 65

Poult * * * 7 5

* ot recoene* * ecoene ony or groun eat s es sc as eat oa

J U DGI N G E DO E N E SS O F F SH

Yo ca n se an nstantread ther mometer tocheck doneness in th ck lets, bt in most cases

yo have to resort to a more pri mt ive testnck

ing the sh wth a pari ng knfe and th en pee king n to

the interor to jdge color an d flakiness Whte sh

(everythng from cod to snapper sho d be cooked to

med m (that s, the fesh sho d be opaqe bt stl moist and

jst beginn ng to fake . alm on and scaops are best cooked to

med m -rare (the center shol d stl be trans cent , whle tna is best cooked

rare (ony the oter layer is opaqe wh e the rest of the sh s transl cent

AK G THE EM PERATUR E O A EAK OR CH OP

Use tongs to ho d the steak or chop

aloft and insert the thermometer

throgh the sde of the meat This

method also woks wth brers, b one-

less chc ken breasts, and other chicken parts

TAKIN G TH E TEM PEATU RE O F A ROA

For many roasts ( inc d ng beef tendero n pork tendero n , and p orko n , t s possble to sde the probe rght throgh the meat and into

the pan , whch wi ll gve yo a false read ng To make s re that the

probe stays n the meat nsert the thermometer at an angle . Pshthe pobe deep nto the roast and then sowly draw t ot, loo kng

or the owest temperatre to nd the center of the m eat

TAKN G THE TEM PERATR E O A

CH CKE OR TURKEY

Yo need to check the th ckest part of the thgh

as we as the thckest part of the breast (see the l stratns n page f roastng a stedbird, nsert the thermometer drectly into centerof the cav as wel to ma ke sre the stng h asreached a safe temp eratre of 65 degrees.

C K ' S L U S T R A T D6

CARRYO VE R E FFE

When it comes to red m

pork jdging doneness, ewth a thermometer, inv

some gesswork. Thats bsometimes yo aren j d

whether the food s read

bt whether t wil be reaeat onc e it has cooled o r

Fr insance, to alow for

to dstrb te them seves

steaks, chops , and roastsrest ve to 20 m n es. (

needs ess time than a big

meat rests, s tempewi ci mb. The thicker th

the more the tempet

rise. Also, food comng oa ve hot oven w l have

resida heat than food cot of a cooer oven. A th

roast cooked i n a hot ovmght experience a I 0- o

degree tempet re inc r

t rests; t he temp eratre

thi n steak may rse by 5 or less.


19/36

CAKES, MFFNS, AND QICK BREADS

hr ar o ways to judg donn ss n caks muins

and quick brads.

I Fully bakd itms should f sprn and rs ntwhn th cntr s gntly prssd. I your ngr lavs

an m prssonor th cntr jigglsth tm is not

don.

2. A skwr or toothpck s houd mrg ary clanwth prhaps ju st a w crum bs attachd . If you smoist battr th tm nds to bak o ngr.

COOKES

We th n k most cooks r bst whn thy r chwy.

This mans takng thm out oft h ovn whn thy

ar sligh tly undrdon in act th cookis ar otn

so so thy w l d roop ovr th nd o a spatua asshown bow . Bak cooks on parchm nt and coo

on bki ng sht or w mn uts; aftr thy av stup slghty sd th pa rchmn t onto a cooin g rack. Ith cooks hav crvics t crvcs shoud appar

moist. Whn baking smooth cookis look t t dgs

which shoud b ghty brownd; th cntr shou ld bset but not fu y d

BROWES

Ovrbakd brownis ar d and chal

and th chocolat lavor s dim in shd.

s th skwr tst to dtrmi n don nss b ut ook for moist stic crumbs.

D DN GS AND CARDS

Eggbasd pudd ngs and custards can curd f cookd

byond 85 dgrs. W tak crm angais of thhat whn th mxtur rgstrs 5 to 80 b ut whnmakng th bas for c cram w push th tmp ra

tur to 1 80 to 1 85 for maximum thcknss. Bakdcustards such as flan and crm br sho ud j iggbut not sos h whn gntly shakn. Ths w occurbetween 0 nd degrees.

YEA BREADS

Lan brads such as count wht and bagutts a rdon whn th intrn tmpraturs masurs 2 1 0

dgrs. Richr oavs mad wth ggs and buttr such

as brioch and chal ah ar don whn th ntrnaltmpratur masurs 1 90 dgrs. Brads wth amodst amount o fat such as Amr can san dwch

brad and ry brad al n btwn; thy ar don at 9 5 to 200 dgrs.

For fr-form oavs tip th loa up with your hand

shldd by an ovn mitt or potholdr and i nsrt th

prob through th bottom crust nto th cntr.

For brad bakd in a loa pan in srt th thrmom tr

from th sid just abov th pan dg an d di rct it at

a downwrd ng i nto th cnt r of th oa.

-

PS AD PASTRES

For pis and pastrs it 's al about coor. A wllbrownd crust s mor lavorfu than a blo nd on n d

t won' t b doughy n th mi ddl. W bak a l p s inglass p i pats so w can xamn t h bottom o th

crust to dtrmin don nss. Whn workng with

puf pastry or othr la dough s t up th bottom of

nd vdua pics and ook or vn brownin g.

CHSECAK

A chscak s don whn th cntr just barly jl s.Snc t his can b dicut to judg try ths tp.

Chscak s rady to com ou t of ovn whn thin trna tmptur rachs 50 dgrs. At highr

tmpturs th txtur wl sur. I possibl nsrtth thrmomtr into th s id of th chscak whrt riss abov the pan otis insrt it nto th cntrofth cke.

S TE M B R C T B E R

7

K N OW I N G W H N O H R

Th folowing tms or som ca ngs n th

kitch n. Hr' s how to know whn thy ar do

BEAS

Fr crmy i ntact bans turn o th h t borth bans ar u ly cookd . Covr t pot and l

rsidual hat contnu to sotn th i ntrior withany agtation from bol ing watr which can ruptu

dicat skins.

E GGS

Most dshs provid visual cu swhn donbut not ha rd-cookd ggs. To kp that grnis

ring rom formng arou nd th yo k br ing arg

to a boil in a pot of watr turn o th hat covand lt thm sit for xactly I 0 mn uts bor

transrr ng th m to a bowl of c watr to stop

cookng p rocss

UTS

Forgt about ting to ju dg color whn toastn

nu ts. Whn nu ts ar fragrant thy ar don .

AA

Propery cookd past wil hav a sligh t bt ths t wl b al dnt . I in doubt cut a pc n

hal. I you s a whit cor th pasta nds mo

tm . Many rcips sust sim mrng th drainpasta n th sa uc to h lp m ar th two; if you

plan o n do ng this a good id a or many cram

broth-basd saucs und rcook th pasta slgh

POTATOES

Potatos and o thr root vgtab s ar gn llydon whn skwr slids th rough thm nd

mts litt rsstanc. Wth pl d potatos, tpics sho ud j ust b rak apart whn p rcd wit

skwr or paring kn. Whn bol ing whol pottos try liftng tm out o th watr wth a pa

kni; if th potato clngs to th kni vn or

instant it's not don yt.

RC

It' s not hard to mak ric tndr; flu ric is a

othr mattr. Rathr than c ontin un g to cook tric and rsk scorchd or bown- out gins pac

foldd kitch n towl btwn th pot and th and t hn st th covrd pot asid or I 0 minu

Rsdua hat wl conti nu to stam th ric wh

th tow absorbs xcss moistur .

T P S F O U S N A T H O T

Rgulrly chck accucy by lavng th proe bucket of c watr or a mi nut or o. I thptur dosn' t rgstr 32 dgrs hrnhth caibti on button avaiab l on th brandomm endd on pag 1 6 to rst th thrmo

Sld th prob dp nto th cntr of oodssur that th t p dos not xit t ood .

Avoid bons cavts say in turky and pafcs l l o which wil throw o the readng.

Tak mor than on radng spcial ly in l aand turkys.


20/36

Reay Good ushroom Lasagnaxc ushrs a heae pasta practca l y guaratee great ushr lasagaf u ve g e t spe d . But what yu have t re ly su per arket stap les?

Ageat mushoom asagna ismuch moe than just anothevegetaian lasagnait might bethe one entee a meat eater wil

sider ordeing even when steak is on thenu. My eseach uncoveed two distinctes fo this recipe. Whie eicanstyehroom asagnas ae oen loaded withsauce and mozzaea, authentic Itaianions opt for Pamesan and ceamy

hame sauce (basicaly, mik thickenedh butte and ou)and no tomatoes.

fter making sevea Ameicanstyepes, I quickly dismissed them. Thehooms were ost in the s ea of tomato

ce and mozzarea. The Itaian ecipesthe emphasis on the mushooms, butd two probems with them. Fist, many

ed for esoteic ando expensive widshooms. (Fresh porcini raely make it

3 B Y S A N R A

I was getting cose, but my geedy es wanted a moe intense mushoexpeience. I borowed an idea om sic ench cooking, adding duxeles tosaue. xs is a fancy tem for a simidea. You chop button mushooms and saut them unti the mushooms fa concentated pase. quick additiongarlic and vermouth and this fagant mtue was eady to mege with the saI stirred the duxees into my bchaand tastes wee ay satised. To mthings easier, I buit my bchamenomushoom bchameight on top ofduxees, so I had just one pan to cean

aacig t u

acked with hear porto bel os earthy porcini a nd tan onti na, th sasana raises s permarket inredients to lavo heihts

my market, and Im not about to putpepound mushooms in a asagna,way ) Second, these authentic ecipesuied lots of time. Every one I triedd fo homemade pasta. Who wants to

nd two hous mixing, oing, boiing,cking, and dying the dough fo severalen sheets of pasta, especialy when another is needed to make the sauce? I was dete-ed to make taianstye mushroom lasagnaroachabeand that meant widey avaiabehooms and noboi noodes.

To balance the earthiness of the mooms, te dish needed addiional swsha, salty, and bight elements. Saued onions added just the ight sweetn fo the cheese, the taditiona choicPamesan contibuted a nice shap, slavo, but it laed te creamy, mequality tastes camoed fo. I tied c

bining Parmesan wih a few vaietiesemim cheese. Mozzaela and povo

ous usroom avorecided to deconsuct the mushroom aye. Wild mushooms fom my loca goumetket were geat (see Cooks Exta, at ight,this ecipe), but, acked up a $48 mush-

m bifo one lasagna. The cheapest option

he supemarket, humble white button mushms, simpy didn't have the he o avor tothe job. Widely avaiable cemini mushoomseed e mushoom avo but stil paedompaison with the wid mushooms. The

emaket poduce aisle le me one option:tobeos. unikey choice, but it madee, as potobeos have substantia avo and

ating the potobeos took forevedidn't do them justice. oasting them inoven kept them to one batch and better

centrated their lavos.

e iter oo c or oo TiI next tied to the dy, pasty noodlestheesut when I simpy substituted the noboil noodes diecty for homemade. Soang te pasta inhot water for ve minutes heped stat the ehy-dration process, but the noodes were still suck-ing the moisture out of my bchame. Addingmoe mik to the bchae soved the moistueproblem, but tasters compained that the daiyavor was overwheming and caed this effort"asagna Aledo. I hit upon a soution whenI suppemented the mik with chicken broth to

make a very oose bcame sauce.The sauce now had the right consistency,

but the lasagna stil needed more mushoomavo. I was oasting 2 pounds of portobeosand couldn't ealy t any more in a pan. hatif I pumped up the avo of the bchame itseDried porcini wee an obvious place to start; apacket costs just a few doas and can add a otof avo. t seemed siy to throw out the hotwate I was using to rehydate the dried porcini,so I repaced the chicken both in my bchamesauce with this ltered iquid.

C O O K'S I U S T R A T

provided creamy extue but not enough aItaian fontina added a compementay butnuttiness tha tastes liked, and it aso mebeautiy, hep ing the layes adhere in a cohemass. Nutmeg, basi, and pasey ounded the sauce.

I waited for my baked asaga to set upslicing, I couldnt help but think hat anosprinkling of fesh hebs coudn't hut. A moat aike top ping of minced parsley, bemon zest, and gaic, a dded to the lasagna wit r ested, contributed anothe aye of comp

ity and feshness. My mushroom asagna mstart out with humbe supermarket ingediebut thees nohing humbe about the big, bavos it ends up wt. Go o cooksilusredc

ey n co de 906 6 fo ou ecpe foWMusroo sgn

ey n code 90 67 fo ou ecpe fo Mroo sgn wit ncett n S

ey n code 9068 fo ou ecpe foMusroo gn wit Got eeccoli be n SunDrie o

ecpes avaae unt ac 2007


21/36

u percharged M sh room Lsagna fom emaket Stles

ating the ultimate mushom lagna isn't hard when you can d lots of exotc shros-d have pe of cshth the right treatent however supearket ngd ets really do the trick stg porobel o ms ho s drves o

cess liq uid and concenttes thei r flavor ring the uce with ted btton mu shoms and chopped dred pocn ilus th e liq uid used to ehydte them) makes for a triple hit of mus hroom favor O ptin for btte fotn cheese d

rmesan put s the emphass on flavor as does a stmin ute sprnkle of w garlic herbs nd eo zest

ROAS MU SH ROOMS FORTI SAUCE

U S H O O A S A N AS E R VE S 1 0 O 2

f Italian fntina is navailable, se whle mzzarella rather han a rbbery Danish,

edish, r merican fntina hle mik is best

n the sace, bt skim r lwfat milk as wrk

1 ce died pcii h ied elI cp e

2 pd (b edi ) pbelh cp clee d d c i

2 b /4i ch ice

blep lie i

Tble l d gnd blck peppe

2 lge ed i chpped edi {b cp)

8 ce b h ceed eie d d bke i gh piece

edi glic cle i ced pee hgh

gic pe (b I bep pl ep)

1 cp d eh3 blep led be pl ddi l

geig p

3 bep bleched llppe l1 cp i lk (ee e e)/4 ep g d eg

/4 cp i ced eh ple lee

/4 cp pl 2 ble p i ced eh b il ee

8 ce i i cheee id eed dhedded {b 2/ cp)

1 ce ged e ch eee (b /4 p)1 2 bi l g de

1 ep ged ze I le

1 Cver prcini t water in micrwave safel; cver with plastic wrap, ct several steaments in plastic with parig kife, and micr

ave n high pwer fr 30 secnds Lt stanntil mshrms sen, abt 5 mines Li

mshrms frm liqi wih frk and rghyp (y shld have abt 3 tablespns)train liqid thrg nemesh strainer lined

th paper twel int medim bwl Se msh-s a lqid aside

Adjst ven rack t middle psiti andeat ven t 45 degrees Spread prtbells in

UPGDE CHEESE ADD BG TNES

eve layer n rimme bakin she an rzzewth 2 tablespns , ssig t ca mshrmsevely; sprinkle with easpn sa ad a-spn pepper and tss again Ras mshrsntil shrivele and liqi has evapra, a30 intes, sirring halay hrgh ckg

tim S asid t l (D trn v)3 hle prbels rast, ha taspil i 1 2inc h nnstck skil vr eimhea ntil shimmerig dd s, / teaspnsalt , and / teaspn pepper and ck, stir nccasinally, ntil nis are brwne aredges, ab 1 0 ines Transfer is largbw and set aside

4 Meanwhile, prcess bttn msrs ifd prcessr nil nifrly carsy chpp,abt six 1secn plss, sppig spbw as neee Heat remaining tablsp l inwempty skillet ver meimhih heat ilshimmering dd chppe bttn mshrms

an ck, stirring ccasinaly, nil wnand mistre has evapraed, 6 t 8 mins

5 Redce heat t medim and sir prciimshrms, 1 tablesp garlic, 1 aspn sa,and 1 teaspn pepper Ck, stirring frqely,ntil garlic is agrant, at 1 mine d vr-mth and ck, strring ccasilly, liqidhas evaprated, 2 t 3 mites

6 dd btter ad ck ntil eltd dlr and ck, stirring cnsatly, ab m-te dd milk, scraping pan btm lsnbrwned bits dd reserve prcini liqd andteg ncreas heat mdimhih a binmixtr bil Rdce heat t medw asimer ntil sac eachs siscy ycrea, 1 0 5 mintes Rmve m h astir i 2 tablespns parsley and / cp basil

7 Cmbine fnta and arsa in medibwl Tss cled prbel mshrms whnis in large bw lace nles i 3 by 9ich vensafe baking dish and cver wih ht apwater; let sak 5 mns, stirring ccasayt prevent ticking Remve ndles m warand place in single layer n kchen twe ipebakg dish dry and ca wih bter

8 Using rbber spala, evnly disrb

S P M B R O C O B R 1

T E S T I N G E Q U I P M E N T :

L e we rch fr ordiby 9 by 2ch x dsh Bt do spec ps oer y es? e t e oted t the ve ps e tested ssze: Theyre Te Mr B Ext Deep $79 95 ) wehed t I I pods-wepd holds 1/ btches of or Msh

Seod pn hodi eve podps e d heese eeds h des whiho Me c Pesso $ 2 5 0) d Ke $ 40) ce Tese o p s s e nost sres tht scrhe the eve t wer ove tepet I te eked jst oe p e Met Pece Set $ 9 9 9 des spt st ht oord d ob e hde d d 4 byby 4 nches) bt ot wrd Bt sce we n d the 2 ch depth of or ts x ke$9 79 ) t s the test the sdr

G

I E , NOT BEERis Met pan is e best option for

super sized agna cipes

VERSATILE ND CHEAP Inexpense x bang dsh Is fne fo

gular lagna cies, Incuding ou.

p shr s b ipsi 3 ns p sa Sprp sac vy vr ls w ys i ixr / cp Rpa ayi f s, sac, shi ixr, ches mr me3 rma ls p s yer Sp rg sac vr s d s r s Lly sy r wh sk ki spay asagna ak l bbblig, a 20 m

9 hil asaa is ak, cbi rm2 asps pasly, 2 alsps siasp arc zst s w v eperat 500 s, rm lasaga, a c t a nn tp cms sp brw, 6 8 Remv asaga rm ve and msprk vy h hrb ix s, h c i pics a sv


22/36

Chick ad Ric, Latino StlCold w trn th is a -day on-dish d inner into a ast but lavor l wknight mal?

The bo ld avoed cos in ofAericanstyle chicken an d rice,rroz o poo (literall, "ice withchicken ) is Latio comfort food at

most basic Having gown p with arrozpolo o the dinne table two or hree

es a month, I've had pent of great verns: moist, tender chicken nesled in rice

with peppers, onions, herbs, and deepken avora saising one dish meal

A V I P A Z I O

waer I was adding with an eqal amoof storeboght chicken broth, which mp for lost chicke avor Aer stewingalost an hor, the skn was pretty abbI removed it while he rice nished cookTo ake the chicken even more appeaI took he addional sep of removingea fro he bones

ce ad pceThe two traditioal rice choices for acon polo are long grain and medi gie both wee ne, tasters preferred

creaier texre of edigrain rice page 31 for he resls of or tasting) edimgrain rice was not withot its plems The grains had a tendency o spi release oo mch sarch, aking the ovtexre of he dish past Giving the rice aparwa hrogh cooking helped kep one laer om overcooking, as did remote po from the direct heat of the soveto he difse hea of the oven

ike most staples, however, arro cono rns the gamt fom the incedible omerel edibe, depedig on how mch

e and eort o're willing to spend Theditional ethod is to stew arinaedken slowl with aomatic herbs and veg

bles, creating a rich both in which heis cooked once the chicken is falloffbone tenderterric, es, bt also timesming Qick vesios speed things poong the rice and chicke (oen bon e separatey, then cobining them jsore serving The tadeoff is rice hat'soid of chicken avo y goal was to splidifference: to stealie the more timesming, tradiional recipes for arroz cono withot sacricing geat tase

Qu ck erso ns of arroz con p o o usu ay sacrfce faor for speed u r erson offers bod tn o faors and takes about an ou r

Tradiionall, arroz con poo hasorange he ha coes fro ins ing oil o, a tropical seed also sed for colocheddar cheese Achioe is hard to n,

cke Coupwanted chickeninsed rice, it was clea heken and the ice wold have to spend soee together Bt how long was long enogh?

A few of the "qick ecipes I fond caled formering the chicken and ice ogether, chopg the chicken into sall pieces tha wold bee in snc with the icein abot half an horhis m srealined soltio n The tiing was, b he reslts were not The white eadark eat cooked nevenl, the skin was

b, and, aer 30 intes, avo insion wasima Wose, the hackedp chicke, replete

h jagged bones, was wholl nappealingRegroupng, I decided to star with a raonal recipe and ads things fom hee Ian b satig a ixtre of chopped oions

green peppers (called a sfro, he ainerican answer o he French rpx ofos, onions, and celery) Once he vegeablesened, I added the chicken and a few cps

Go o cooksillsredcom ey in code 9 06 9 or ine hicen

n Rice with H Pes n Onge ecpe avalable untl arc 2007

of water, rned he bne o low, and le echicken poach for an hor Reoving the chicke n,I aded e rice o he po, and, 3 0 mintes laer,he rice had absorbed ever drop ofe rich brohe chicken had le behind I added e chickenback to rewar for 1 0 mines, en lied e lidNow his was chickeninsed rice!

Unfornatel, it was also a twohor projecand I hadn' even facored in he radiionalmarinade ye Wha's more, while e dark meawas ois and tender, he leaner whie mea wasin bad shape In a vivid ashback o m childhood, I recalled ghing wih my cosins a hedinner table over he highs and the drsticks(The dr,

Cook's Illustrated 082

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