Cooking Without Meat - War Guides -1943

8/12/2019 Cooking Without Meat - War Guides -1943

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C O O K I N G WITHOUT M E A T


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C O O K I N GWITHOUTM E A T

A Supplementary Kitchen Guideor War -1 rnie Cookery

By B A R B A R A R A E

Illustrations byAlice Blodgett

PUBLISHERM . S. M I L L C O . , I N C .

NEW YORK


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COPYRIGHT 1943 BYBARBARA RAE

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in anyform w ithout perm ission in writing from the publisher, except by areviewer who may quote brief passages in a review to be printed ina magazine or newspaper.

P U B L I S H E R ' S N O T EA recen t ru l ing by the W ar Product ion B oard has cur ta i led th euse of paper by book publishers.In l ine with this rul ing and in order to conserve materials andmanpower, we are co-operat ing by (a) Tising lighter-weight paperwhich reduces the bulk of our books, and (b) print ing books withsmaller margins and with more words to each page. The text i tselfis not abridged or shortened in any way.We are sure tha t readers wi l l understand the publ i shers ' desi re toco-operate as ful ly as possible with the object ives of our government.

HANUFACTUBED I N T H E U N I T E S S T A T ES O F AMKSICAB Y T H E VAIL-BALLOU P R E S S , I H C , BIKGBAHTOK K. T .


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A C K N O W L E D G M E N T SAn author, even though the project undertaken beon ly a modest cook book, isalwaysindebted to othersfor encouragement and helpful suggestions. Withoutthe consideration and interest of my husband it is

doubtful if this volume would have been undertakenand com pleted. Ce rtainly his willingness to eat experimental dishes was a necessary part of theproject, andhissuggestionsforchanging an y recipe usually resultedin its improvem ent. Many thanks,Walt.I should also like to thank Alice Kershaw for herrecipe for Macaroni with Cheese and Tomatoes; Lillian MacDonald for the recipe for Eggplant withTom atoes; and M rs. D eW itt B.Smith for her inspiration to combine String Beans and Mushrooms.To Alice Blodgett, who illustrated the book, I amalso greatly indebted, no t only for her lively d raw ings,but for her enthusiasm which made the task seemworth completing.

BarbaraRae

9 8 7 0 C


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TA BLE OF C ON TEN TSFOREWORD

W H E N T H E R E I S N O M E A T .H E R B S AND O TH E R SEASONINGS .PROTEINS WITHOUT M EA T . .A W O R D T O T H E W I S E . . .R I C E FOR DINNERSPAG HETTI AND MACA RONI . .CH EES E FOR MEATLESS DA YS . .T H E L E G U M E F A M I L Y . . .EGG DISHESVEGETABLES IN TH E SPOTLIGHT .GRAVIES AND SAUCES . . . .

GLOSSARY . . . . . .BIBLIOGRAPHYINDEX

vnI I*52125375597 07992

1081 2 11 2 223

vii


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F O R E W O R DYou will not find between the covers of this bookany elaborate menu plan, covering weeks or months.H o w could anyone present suchascheme and imaginetha t it wo uld be economical? N ob od y could know that

on T uesd ay yo ur husband w ould lose his appetite andno t eat the dinner you carefully prepared, leaving youwith extra food to be used somehow. The most anycompiler of a cook book could hope to do, in thesetimes when economy in the kitchen is essential, is togive you suggestions for dishes that will make the m ostof your rationed foods and left-overs, leaving it up toyou tofollow the suggestions when they apply to yo ursituation.T his I have tried to do , using recipes tha t con tain n omeat and at the same time call for a minimum of o therrationed foods. Principally, I have tried to describedishes that really taste good, that are not just anyold concoction, because I know from experience thatmeatless dishes can be extremely savory. They are, inmy own vegetarian household.I have prepared this book to pass on whateverknowledge may help others who must eat less meatthrough necessity, and to encourage them to try thesame delectable dishes tha t vegetarians w ho p rizeflavorhave been enjoying right along.

It is assumed tha t you who may use this book alreadyknow how to cook. Even so, I have tried to give directions clearly and completely so that any unfamiliarprocess w ill no t seem aformidableundertaking. D on 't


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x F O R E WO R Dlet the use of herbs or strong vegetables like onions,peppers or garlic scare yo u, please. A ll are ve ry necessary in prep aring vegetarianfareth at has real zest. Andthe y are easy to use, once yo u get on to the ir behavior.So,during this period of food shortages, I hope youwillfindthis booka usefulsupplement to yo ur standardkitchen guides. And when the world has finally rejected violence for the kindly state of cooperation andpeace, yo u m ay wish to take some of these recipes w ithyou into a new era of plenty which lies ahead, somewhere.

Barbara RaeProvidence, Rhode IslandSeptember, 1943


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W H E N T H E R E I S N O M E A TD oing with little meat, one of the necessities of w ar time, means a drastic change in the eating habits of

most North Americans, a change many resent andmost cooks dep lore. For it is true tha t the average meal(luncheo n or dinne r) is planned around the meat dish.N o t on ly that, bu t the rest of the meal usually receivesless attention, both in preparation and eating, and isoften practically obscured in meatgravy with the result that even the flavor of vegetables is masked b y theodor and savor of m eat.N o t surprising, then , tha t meatless meals are aproblem. T h e cook is left w ithou t the custom ary high spotin her menu, and foods that before received little attention must now stand on their own merits. This isnot all tragedy, however. Other foods worthy of acquaintance have distinctive and subtle flavors whichfrequently go unno ticed in competitionwith the dom inating taste of meat. And still other delectable foodsare seldom served in meat-eating households, a privation no lover of good food would knowingly endure.


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12 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TSo if steaks and chops havelefty ou r table and a ne wcooking era confronts you, set'out with anticipationto explore a new realm of gastronom ic wonders. T he reare many pleasant surprises ahead for you and yourfamily.Faced with the complexities and restrictions of arationed larder, you may be inclined to be skepticalabout the joys of war-time cooking. Naturally, itmeans considerable readjustment, bu t it can beagame,a battle of wits. By accepting your limitations as achallenge, you will find increased satisfaction in thepreparation of palatable meals.You, as cook and guide in this culinary v entu re, w illhave four primary problems:i. T h e substitution of savory dishes tha t will satisfyyour family's appetite for the high flavor of meat.2. The substitution of foods that will provide all

the necessary proteins formerly supplied by meat.3. The substitution of a main dish, a menu high-point, that will take the place of the absent meat andaround which the meal may be planned.4. The substitution of unrationed and fresh foodsfor hard-to-get or severely limited canned goods.This book has been prepared to help you solve theseproblems, and to make the change-over to meatlessmeals a pleasure rather than grim necessity.Of course, you may have failures in the sense thatyour family won't acceptallthe new dishes w ith alacrity. Th is is inevitable, and hardly a reflection on yo urcooking ability. It simply means that you will have tobe guided b y their know npreferencesand not c ontinually thrust on them meat substitute dishes containinglarge amounts of a disliked ingredient.No doubt you already have satisfactory recipes thatdo no t require m eat, and yo u will wisely present these


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W H E N T H E R E IS N O M E A T 13first to help ease your family gently over the transition. Simply extend this safe practice when you present a new meatless masterpiece. For example, be sureto servewith it some other food you know they like,whether it's a vegetable or their favorite muffins. Itwill save you from total disappointment if the newdishisno t well received, and will help to send the eatersfromthe table satisfied in spite of their apathy towardspart of the meal.From the standpoint of health and taste, you willalso do well to break yourself of the habit (if yours itis) of paying slight attention to any accessory dishesyouserve.Vegetables in particular, because of the easewith which they lose their vitamins and mineralsthrough improper cooking, deserve all the care youcan give to their preparation. The color they provide,aswellasthe ir distinctive and often abused flavors, willhelp to dress your table and whet appetites. It is now on de r cooked vegetables are often under-app reciatedwhen they appear at the table a sodden, wilted mess,without form or natural color. As any homespun psychologist know s, iffoodlooks good, one is predisposedto like the taste, too.Another way to lend zest to your new diet is toserve more hot rolls and muffins. They really don'ttake much time to concoct, especially when you canget prepared mixes that only require the addition ofmilk, water or eggs. But it is cheaper to make yourown. Think of the variety of muffins, for instanceoatmeal, corn, whole wheat, baking powder, bran,cheese, English, graham or rice. And there are pop-overs,a real trea t for the small cost and labor invo lved.Finally, if you are really ambitious, there are rolls tobe made from yeast dough into intriguing shapes. T h edou gh w ill keep in a good refrigerator for a week , and


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i 4 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tcan be baked in any desired amount. W it h the possibility of bread shortages, it won't come amiss to practiceup on your kneading.Gravy, that important and aromatic adjunct ofroasts, need not disappear with meat, for gravies orsauces can be made without meat juice. In fact theyare such a prominent feature of vegetarian cookingthat an entire chapter is devoted to their preparationand use.


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I IH E R B S A N D O T H E R S E A S O N I N G S

A major cause for dissatisfaction with vegetarianmeals is that they frequently lack flavor, high flavor.Meat, even ineptly prepared, is intrinsically savory.With this standby eliminated from some or all of yourmeals, you must get acquainted with new (but basically old) ways of adding relish to your food. It iseasily done, and with gratifying results.Your primary ally in preparing main dishes as wellas sauces will be herbs, those versatile little plants tha thave beenprizedfor the ir seasoning qualities since th edays of A ncien t Greece . You w on 't need to become anherb specialist, though the taste enhancement whichresults from the use of herbs may start you on a newand fascinating hobby, herb gardening.*But you willhave to experiment in the kitchen if you wish to knowthesatisfaction their use brings to cook ing.Part of the fun, of course, comes when a look ofsurprised pleasure lights the faces at your table and

* If yo u are interested in you r ow n g arden of herbs, read IrmaGoodrich Mazza 's HERBS FOR THE KITCHEN, Chapter 3.15


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16 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tyou are eagerly questioned, "What makes this sogood?" When herbs are used properly, this complimentary question is bound to be asked.Most of the herbs listed in the recipes of this bookshould be available at yo ur g rocery store in dried form.Even if grown at home, Northerners will have to usethe dried form during the winter. So remem ber, whensubstituting dried for fresh herbs in any recipe, or viceversa, that dried herbs are much stronger than thefresh. Use about one teaspoon of dried where onetablespoon of fresh would be required. There is another important distinction. Fresh herbs (especiallytarragon) become bitter if they are cooked more thanan hou r, but wh en d ried th ey may be added to the dishat an y stage of its prepara tion. A nd , since it takes herbsa while to release their flavor, add them to uncookedfood as long as possible before serving, making apowder of the dried variety and bruising the fresh tospread the essence quickly.W h en experimenting with herbs, apply the fragrantleaves sparingly. It's easy to misuse and overuse them,especially such potent ones as tarragon, thyme, sage,summer savory, basil or rosemary. And, incidentally,don ' tusethe strong ones together, or th ey will neutra lize each other. Each is an individualist, revealing itsvirtues best without competition.To help in remembering some of the uses of herbs,yo u might makealist to be tacked on the k itchen bulletin board or over yo ur work table where you can referto it easily, rather than searching through a cook bookevery time you want guidance. Add to this list as youlearn new combinations, but remember to consider itas a guide, not a limitation on your own ingenuity.H ere are afewof the m ore comm on herbs:Basil leaves are a favorite seasoning in Italian dishes,


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HERBS AND OTHER SEASONINGS 19white mustard leaves, sorrel, nasturtium (both leavesand flowers), burnet, balm or lovage.

Though it would be hard to over-emphasize the importance of herbs, there are other seasonings you willfind indispensable.Of first importance in the vegetable category is theonion family, includ ing shallots, leeks and chives. Eventhe common white sauce becomes a relish to lingerover w hen it is flavored w ith one of the onion quartet,minced. And practically no sauce to be served withvegetables, rice or macaroni is complete without thefamiliar onion qua lity. G arlic , too, is a prime requisitein any good cook's closet although her squeamishguests need not know it, or their breathsuffer from it,if she uses the little cloves su btly.Certain vegetables and fruits, aside from their nu tri tive value, have palatable contributions to make in theprepa ration of vegetarian m eals. M ushrooms w ill onlygive yo u one vitamin, but w ha t a pervasive and delicateseasoning they are A dime's w or th goes a long way ,even when the cost per pound is relatively high-Celery is staple fare in America , and its leaves are anadmirable seasoning in salads, soups and stews. Thedried leaves, and y ou can easily d ry them yourself,areusefulin sauces and in the soup pot w hich is making itsreappearance with rationing.To m atoes go to the head of any list of sauce ingredients, and you will find sauces indispensable under ameatless cooking regime.The familiar bell or sweetgreen pepper is another useful flavoring, especially incompany with milder foods like rice or dried beans.Expensive out of season, the y are still w orth bu yin g insmall quantities to co lor othe r dishes. Inseason,agenerous vitamin con tent entitles them to m ore general useas a vegetable. H o t peppers are invaluable in dishes of


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2o C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TLatin origin. When fresh peppers are not available,chili powder is an adequate substitute.

Among the fruits, lemons rankhigh in their contribution to meatless dishes. The grated rind puts a tanginto more than a few thingsfor example, potatoesfried with onions. Lemon juice, if limited to mayonnaise, is a culinary friend criminally neglected.Wine (where it does not represent too great aluxury) has its special place on the kitchen shelf too,as well as several prepared sauces such as Worcestershire, Tabasco, horseradish, A-i and mustard. Bouillon cubes and vegetable stock come to the rescue inrecipes calling for meat broth, as do prepared gravyconcentrates.Rea lly, though, everyth ing y ou cook has a flavor ofits ow n, and your job is to get it to the table w ith themaximum natural flavor, plus whatever heightenedrelish condiments can give.


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I l lP R O T E I N S W I T H O U T M E A T

W hile the taste of thefoodon you r tableisprobablythe primary consideration of your family, more goesinto the preparation of a good dinner than flavoringand careful cooking. So let's spend a few moments onthe cook 's problem of getting sufficient proteins to takethe place of meat, since the cook is usually her owndietitian.As you probably kn ow , the best meat substitutes aremilk, eggs, cheese and nu ts. Both eggs and m ilk belongin the daily diet anyway, and on meatless days it isnecessary to increase the amounts used. Fortunately,both these foods can be used in making other dishes,and an extra amoun t of them can be slipped in w ithoutdanger of monotony. As long as it is plentiful, try touse a quart of whole milk (or its equivalent dried orcondensed) daily for each member of the family andyou can be pretty sure they are getting an adequatesupply. (Yes, I know. Adults can get along nicelyw ith o nly a pint a day. But don 'tforget that extra ra-


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22 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Ttions are needed if you are going to compensate formeat protein.)Later there will be recipes for egg dishes that canproudly take the place of "meat for dinner." Once aweek, eggs as eggs should be received happily b y yo urfamily at the evening meal. But don't overdo it. Eggsgo in to meatless roasts andbreadstuffsand are the bin ding agent in m any casseroles, so use them inconsp icuously except when they are the main dish. Your dairybill can be cut down by using Grade B or C eggs incooking.The third primary meat substitute is cheese and, ifyour family doesn't care for it, it's time to win themoverfor the sake of their health as well asfor the eating pleasure they are missing. If you have been servingcheeseheretoforeonly w ith apple pie, start convertingyourself and your family with such a dish as the To-matoRareb it in Chap ter Seven, served over crisp salt-ines. Although you may have to go without meat inord er to have cheese these days, remem ber before passing it up that cheese is usually a better buy than meatin both points and pennies.As with eggs, cheese does not have to appear toooften as the main dish. It m ay flavor a gravy or sauce,be sprinkled on macaroni and spaghetti, or grated oversoup. It is a satisfying dessert with crackers after ahearty meal. Because of its distinctive flavor this product brings added relish to otherfoods while contributing to a balanced diet.Nuts ,with their range of tastes, should be includedin your meatless meals, too. Bread 'n butter 'n peanutbu tte r stands up importan tly w ith its array of vitamins,minerals and proteins. And peanut butter can be usedin cooking. But go slowly. Your family may not findit palatable in a meatless roast or lima bean loaf, and


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P R O TE IN S W I T H O U T M E A T 23dem and it plain or no t atall.In cooking , start first withless positivenuts.W aln uts blend well with many vegetable stuffings and casseroles because of their blandflavor. Almonds are good mixers, too. Be guided byyo ur purse and a good deal of discretion un til you havedetermined family preference. Like cheese, nuts canbe used often for extra relish or as dessert, while contributing their share of protein.A m ong the lesser lights in the prote infoodg roup areall dried legumes (peas, beans, lentils), corn and allgrain. Technically, each one is not a complete meatsubstitute because alone it does not contain all theknown kinds of proteins utilized by the body, or thesame amounts of iron, phosphorus and B vitamins thatare found in meat. So don't serve any of these foodsconsistently as the only substitute.Replacingmeat in the diet is no t so great a prob lemas it seems, nor does it have to be met with a vastamount of technical knowledge. By varying the protein food in your menus, and allowing at least oneserving of a meat substitute every meatless day, youcan be sure you are meeting standard health requirem ents. Fo r good m easure, it is wise to fortify oth erdishesaswell, when ever the fortifying agents are available.

If you are not following a strict vegetarian diet,gelatin with its high content of animal protein isvaluable in augmenting the daily ration of body-buildingfood. It can be served in attractively molded dessertsor salads, or the pow der may be dru nk in fruit juice.A no the r w ay to get extra vitamins and proteins is touse rice polishings and wheat germ in cooking. Thepolish, a byproduct of milling, can be used in cookingand baking to enrich breads, cereals, pastries, graviesand any other foods utilizing flour. Two parts of flour


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24 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tto one of polish is the usual proportion. Many peopleuse wheat germ sprinkled over cereals and fruits, andit can be used with flour (but not in place of flour) inbaking. Health stores are the best source of supply forboth these products.A t.the risk of repeating what you have probablyread elsewhere, this is a list of the foods the Department of Agriculture urges everyone to eat daily.i. Milkat least ipint for adults and %to i quartfor children.2. Tomatoes, oranges, grapefruit, raw cabbage orsaladgreensi or more servings.3. Green or yellowvegetables1or m ore servings.4. Other vegetables orfruit2 or more servings.5. Lean meat, poultry, fish, or sometimes driedbeans,peas, ornuts1or more servings.6. Eggs1a day, or at least 3 or 4 a w eek .

7. Cereals andbread2or more servings of wholegrain or enriched products.8. Butter and other fats.Byfollowingthis list, and serving on each vegetarianday one dish thatis areal meat substitute, your diet willfulfill every requirement of a balanced menu. If, at alater date, the food supply is so severely curtailed tha ta balanced diet is no longer possible, we will just haveto hitch u p ou r aprons and make the best of it, still us ing the list above as a guide in the use of what foodremains.


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A W O R D T O T H E W I S EW ith mostfoodproducts rationed, the primary ruleabout food is, "Don't waste " But this preachment is

being m ade on all sides and the re is no needfor elaboration from me. Several books on war-time cooking *have been prepared to help the housewife conserveand stretch her food supply, substitute for sugar, andsustain her w ilted morale in the face of shortages. Sincethe special province of this book is cooking withoutmeat, there is no spacefor more general treatment ofthe whole food problem.However, certain restricted foods are mentionedfrequently in this volume because of their importancein meatless meals, and it is entirely relevant to mentionpracticalschemes for utilizing them to best advantage.Tomatoes are the first consideration because theyare used so often in sauces and gravies, as well as inother dishes for their flavor. Naturally, in season freshtomatoes should be used instead of taking them from acan. But for many people all year around, the canned

*See Bibliography. 25


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26 COOKING W IT H O U T MEATarticle will be the principle source of supply. In thatcase, ration points can be saved by purchasing tomatopaste for m any cookingusesinstead of paying in pointsfor the weight of tomatoes canned whole. Tomatoescontain a large percentage of w ater, and yo u w ill savejust that am ount in weigh t if you order th e paste fromwhich most of the moisture has been removed. Paste,diluted w ith water, will give an extremely economicalcooking tomato juice. Don't forget, thousrh, that thepaste is notseasoned.It will need more attention fromherbs and condiments than regular tomato juice.Thesefactsabout tomato paste are useful to rem em ber.i. One six-ounce can of paste contains six goodtablespoons of essence of tomato, the equivalent oftwo pounds of fresh tomatoes.2. O ne generous tablespoon of tom ato paste shouldbe mixed with one cup of water or vegetable stock fora good cooking tomato juice. This means that one six-ounce can holds the makings of at least iViquarts oftomato flavored liquid.3. In making tomato juice to be served at the tab le,the proportion of water is reduced for richer flavor.Use five or six parts of w ate r to one part of paste, mixthoroughly, season with salt, pepper and bay leaf orpreferred herb, and chill before serving.4. Transforming the paste into tomato cocktail requires more preparation, but the effort will result inan inexpensive supply of this limited product. To onesix-ounce can of paste add a quart of water, a smallminced onion, two stalks of celery, six whole clovesand one bayleaf.Simmerfor 15minutesbefore addinga teaspoon of lemon juice and salt to taste. Strain, andserve hot or cold.


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A W OR D T O T H E WISE 27A no the r caution about purchasing canned tomatoes:bu y the close-packed variety so that yo u are paying inration points only for the weight of tomatoes insteadof for the high percentage of juice in loosely packedvarieties. You can dilute them yourself with juice orwater to stretch them further.Canned tomatoes in any form are so extravagantfrom a rationing point of view that it becomes almostnecessary to give them up as a stewed vegetable withthe meal, unless they represent such a delicacy to yo ur

family that you serve them as a special treat. In thatcase, stretch them with bread crumbs.You will probably find it true of most rationedgoods that they can be extended best in combinationwith other foods. For example, many of the recipes inthis book use small quantities of any one vegetable altho ugh the dish wh ich results serves five or six peop le.Cooking fats and oils should be mentioned heresince they are frequently listed as ingredients in therecipes to follow. If you are observing a strict vegetarian diet, lard will not have a place on your foodshelf, but there are many solid vegetable fats, likeCrisco, Spry, or the margarines, which may be usedinstead. W h en the recipe callsforoil, any of the vegetable cooking or salad oils is satisfactory. These products are derived from olive, cotton seed, soybean, peanut, or corn oil, or a combination of them. The labelindicates which oils are being purchased. I have notmentioned butter, though it is one of the richest cooking fats, because of its scarcity and high ration value.It may always be used wh en the recipe requires fat.Fats and oils can be conserved by cutting down theamounts required in mostrecipes.Several recipes listedin this book specify t w o or more tablespoons in w hich


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28 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tminced onions, garlic, or green peppers are to becooked. One tablespoon will usually suffice, but thepan must be watched closely and its contents stirredfrequently to prevent burning. If you want to pay theprice, olive oil is excellent in place of the more commonly used vegetable cooking and salad oils, and forthe moment at least, it is unrationed. And, unless youare preparing orthodox vegetarian meals, save all fatfrom meat and convert it into useful cooking fat. C larifyingdirections should be given in yo ur standard cookbook.Lig ht, m oisture, air andwyarmthare factors in makingfatrancid, so keep it covered and stored in a dark,dr y, cool p lace. Oils especially are quick lyaffected byair and should always be covered tightly and, whenpossible, the container should be kept full to excludeair.

Besides buying fresh vegetables when they are inseason and conserving canned productsfor the wintermonths, I have found it helpful in my own kitchen tohave a rationing po int ch art tacked on the w all abovethe sink. There it is easily referred to before the precious coupons are spent, plans are madeam on th ahead,and if any coupons are left over after immediate needsare satisfied, they are used for products that are staplerequirements for the kind of cooking I do. Anotherhelpful chart is one issued b y the U nited States Bureauof Home Economics called "Vitamins from Farm toYou." Listing the vitamin content of dairy products,fruits and common vegetables, it is a fitting kitchencompanion for the ration chart, a reliable guide to thefood value of your dollars, and is obtainable withoutcost.A word about the recipes in following chapters.


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A W OR D T O T H E WISE 29You may find that some of them require foods likeeggs and cheese in amounts exceeding either yourpocketbook or ration allotment. In most such recipes,the amount of cheese can be reduced without harmingthe flavor of the dish, especially if you use sharp cheese.What is derisively called "rat-trap" cheese is a verygood ingredient for cooking because of its strength . Ifit is not possible to obtain as many eggs as you are accustomed to , they can be extended with milk orwater,or left out of many dishes altogether. As with cheese,it would be wise, in case of more stringent limitationslater, to use them on days when a lack of meat makestheir protein content necessary in the daily menu.T h efollowingrecipes are examples of m eatless maindishes tha t utilizeleft-oversand stretch ration coupons.

SPINACH SOUFFLE WITH MARJORAM(4 or5 servings)4VzI

eggsto 1Vz cups cooked,chopped spinachscant teaspoon driedmarjoramSalt to taste

1Yz tablespoons mincedchives, or 1 tablespoon minced onion4 tablespoons light cream,or half whole andhalf condensed milkPaprika

Separate the eggs and beat yolks well. T o the yolksadd spinach, salt, paprika, chives, marjoram, andcream, and mix thoroughly. Then fold in well beatenwhites, and turn into greased casserole. Set dish in panof hot water and bake from 20 to 30 minutes in a 375degree oven.lerveimmediatelywiththe following sauce.


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3 C O O K I N G W I T H O U T M E A TSOUFFLE SAUCE

l/2 cup vegetable stockY2 cup milki tablespoon fat or cooking oili tablespoon flouri hard-boiledeggchopped

2 teaspoons minced onionl/2 bay leafi sprig parsley, or i teaspoon choppedY2 teaspoon celery saltSaltand pepper to taste

Fry onion in fat, add flour, and cook at least 5 minutes.Add heated milk and stock, bay leaf and parsley,cooking mixture another ten minutes. Stir in celerysalt, season with salt and pepper and add chopped eggat the last.

RICE AND VEGETABLE CASSEROLE(4 or5servings)

Rice is a good extender for left-over vegetables.This casserole can be varied according to what youhave on hand.YinAYiVz

Yi

cup rawneesmall turnip, cubedcup peas, canned orfreshcup tomatoes, canned orstewedsmall onion, sliced thin

2 medium potatoes, slicedthinYi teaspoon saltPepperDash allspice2 cups vegetable stockPinch dried tarragon

Place ingredients in alternate layers in greased cas-serole, season each layer, and pour on stock. C over andbake at 350 degrees until rice is tender and potatoescooked . Serve w ith one of the gravies listed in ChapterEleven.


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A W O R D T O T H E W I S E 31MIXED VEGETABLE GRAVY

(Makes21/2 cups)Another way of presenting left-over vegetables asthe main dish is to serve them mixed together or inseparatempunds on a platter, and covered with a distinctive sauce or gravy.

2 tablespoons fat or cook- 1cup vegetable stock oring oil bouillonYicup mushrooms, sliced 1cup milk1 tablespoon chopped 1 tablespoon minced pars-green pepper ley2 or 3 tablespoons flour Dash cayenne pepperl/2 teaspoon salt Pinch tarragonY2 teaspoon celery saltFry chopped pepper in fat and stir in flour. Cook5 minutes and add milk gradually. When mixture iswell blended, add seasonings. Meanwhile, soak mushrooms in boiling stock 5 minutes and add bo th to firstm ixture with parsley and tarragon . If you wish,atablespoon of chopped pimiento may be added also.

STUFFED PEPPERSWhen bell peppers are in season, they make an inexpensive and colorful foundation for many meatlessmeals. The ingredients given here are enough to stuffthree large peppers.

3 medium carrots, diced 1tablespoon fat or oilY2 cup stewed tomatoes, or 1clove garlic, minced fine1teaspoon tomato 6 tablespoons cooked peasP?Ste r\ ^ Vmedium omons, sliced Grated cheesethin 3 large green peppers


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32 COOKING W I T H O U T ME ATSplit peppers in half lengthwise, remove seeds andveins, and boil in salted water for 20 minutes. Drain,and reserve cooking water. M eanwhile, fry onions andminced garlic gently infat for 5 minutes. A dd to themcarrots and tomatoes with a small amount of saltedwater and cook until carrots are done and 4waterevaporated. (If tomato paste is used, add to carrots andonions after they have been cooked.) Mix in peas,moisten with a little cooking water from peppers andfill peppers. Sprinkle grated cheese over tops, and setin warm oven until ready to serve.

SAVORY RING(Serves 5 or 6)

For a very tas ty but inexpensive r ing mold , t ry th isrecioe.31/2 cups bread crum bs1 large onion, minced1 clove garlic, minced2 tablespoons fat orcook ing oil1 tablespoon flour orrice polishY2 teaspoon celery salt1 teaspoon choppedparsley

% teaspoon dried summersavory% teaspoon dried marjoramJ4 teaspoon dried thy m e orsage% to 1 cup milk1 egg, beaten1 teaspoon grated lemonpeel, if desiredSalt and pepper

Fry onion and minced garlic infatun til yellow, addflour, and cook about 5 minutes. Stir in half the milk,cook a few minutes longer and remove from fire. Mixin herbs, crumbs and all seasonings. Then add beatenegg more milk if necessary, and pack into greased ringmold or casserole. Bake in moderate oven 20 to 30 minutes.


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A W O R D T O T H E WISE 33In sp ite of its modest origin , this is an extrem ely savory dish, and capable of much variation. Fill the moldwith creamed vegetables of any sort, or serve it withm ushroom gravy if yo u present it as a casserole. Somep ro tein d i s h V u l d L servedat the same meal.

FRESH MUSHROOM GRAVY FOR SAVORYRIN G(Makes21/2cups)

1 or more cups sliced 2/3cup milkmushrooms 1 tablespoon W orcester-iY2 cups boiling water shire, soy, or anypre-2 tablespoons fat or ferred saucecooking oil Salt and pepper to taste2 or 3tablespoons flourLet sliced mushrooms boil in water for 5 minutes.

M eanwhile, make a roux of fat and flour, and add m ilkto it gradually. Then add mushrooms with the waterthey boiled in, salt and pepper to taste, and stir untilthickened. Add Worcestershire sauce and serve ingravy bowl. A teaspoon of minced onion, fried in fatbefore adding the flour, gives the gravy additionalrelish.VEGETABLE CAKES

Mexican housewives frequently make little vegetable cakes w hich are served w ith a peppery sauce, andthe practice may be transplanted to North Americankitchens with gratifying results.Chop together equal quantities of two or threecooked vegetables and add another equal part ofcooked, chopped onion. Stir in one beaten egg andbread crumbs moistened with milk, the amount of


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34 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tcrumbs being determined by the quantity of vege-tables. Use n'ot much more irhan thfe amount of anyone vegetable. Season the m ixture w ith salt and pep perand a pinch each of chili powder and wild marjoram.Pack into greased timbale pans and bake15or 20 m inutes in a moderately hot oven, or mold into flat cakes,dip in beaten egg, then in crum bs, and fry until b ro w non both sides.Serve them w ith a Mexican sauce, perhaps this simple one:

MEXICAN SAUCE FOR VEGETABLE CAKES(Makes1y2 cups)1 onion, chopped 1 large tomato, chopped1 tablespoon olive or cook- (fresh or canned), oring oil r tablespoon tomato

i clove garlic, minced paste1 teaspoon chili pow der 1cup vegetable stockSalt and pepper to tasteFry onion and garlic in oil until yellow and addchili po w der, stirring well. A dd tomato (or paste) andbroth . Bring m ixture to a boil and simm er 10m inutes,stirring occasionally. If you wish a thicker sauce, add

a little flour o r rice polish mixed with the chili p ow der.Season to taste and serve.MEXICAN RICE

(Serves 4 or 5)When the left-over is about a cup of some kind of

tomato sauce, use it to flavor rice the following day,and yo u will have an entirely new dish. T hi sisthe w ayit's done:


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A W OR D T O T H E WISE 351 cup raw rice 2 or3 cups vegetable stock1 heaping tablespoonfator or bouillonoil Salt and pepper2 clovesgarlic,minced fine 1 cup (more or less) left-1 onion, chopped over tomato sauce

Wash rice until rinse water is clear, then let it dry.Melt fat in saucepan and add rice. Stir occasionally,and w he n it begins to bro w n, clear a small space in thecenter for garlic and chopped o nion. W h e n they, too,are well browned, mix in with rice, and add tomatosauce and part of the vegetable stock. Season and stiringredients well. T hen cover saucepan and let m ixturesimmer without stirring until rice is dry. Add morestock, continuing process until rice is done. At thistime all moisture should be absorbed.A word about the sauce. If you are using a highlyseasoned Mexican sauce, the above ingredients aresufficient. But with a milder tomato sauce it is wise toadd 2 tablespoons chopped green pepper and Yi tea-spoon chili powder t o > e recipe" & v e . Introducechopped pepper with onions and garlic and then stirin chili powder.

CURRIED CARROTS(Serves 4 or 5)

Left-over C ur ry Sauce is just as valuable in pro vid ing a second m eal, if you manage to have anyleft over.1 cup left-over Curry % cup rich milk or evapo-Sauce rated milk2 cups cooked carrots, cutin rounds


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36 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TH ea t carrots in C urr y Sauce over low flame, addinga little vegetable stock if too thick. Don't add too

much, however, for the milk will dilute somewhat.When carrots are thoroughly heated, and just beforetaking from fire, add milk. Serve in the cen ter of a ricering.This small selection of recipes will give you an ideaof the many ways your left-overs can be stretched. Itis in these extender recipes especially that wheat germ

and rice polish should be used to enrich the mealadded in amounts varying between a teaspoonful andatablespoonfulto compensatefor thefoodvalueoftenlacking in left-overs.


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VR I C E F O R D I N N E R

Rice is so important in providing main dishes formeals wh ere meatisabsent tha t we m ust consider ca refully its treatment in the kitchen. Unless the preparedgrain is plump and fluffy, with each kernel separateand distinct, the cook has failed to master this phase ofthe culinary art.T ome,b row n rice is farpreferableto white, mainlybecause it seems ridiculous to serve a grain th at has hadmost of itsfoodproperties removed together with partof its flavor, and also because brown rice never becomes gummy, even when overcooked-flaky andcrum bly, bu t never gum my. So take note, if you havetrouble with white rice.But suit yourself in this matter. Both brown andwhite rice are cooked alike, thou gh bro wn takes longerto become tender. As a concession to popular usage,the recipes in this chapter are timed for white rice,unless brown is specifically required.To boil rice, first wash the grains several times inho t water, rubbing them between your hands until the

37


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38 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Twater runs off clear. Have a kettle of rapidly boiling,salted water ready (about ten cups of water to one ofr ice) , and drop the rice gradually into it. Reduce theheat a little, and boil gently with pan uncovered forabout twenty minutes, nearer thirty in the case ofbrown rice. The grains will be kept in motion by theactivity of the w ater. If there is any tende ncy tow ardssticking,shake the pan to loosen any clinging kernels.Never stirrice while itisboiling.W hen itis done (thatis,w he n the kernels have no hard cen ter w hen pressedbetw een th um b and finger), drain the rice in a colanderand dash plenty of cold water through it to keep thegrains separate. Then place the colander over hotwater or in a warm oven until you are ready to serve.O ne cu p of raw rice amounts to about three cups w hencooked. Save the water for other cooking uses.Steaming preserves more of the food properties ofrice than boiling, and is done this way:For each cup of rice useiYt cupfuls of water (moreif you likevery soft rice) and a teaspoon of salt. Heatthe water in the top of a doubleboiler, having plentyof boiling water in the lower part, and shake in thewell-washedrice.Cover tightly and cook w itho ut stirring until the grains are don e and the water com pletelyabsorbed, leaving only a pile of steaming, plump rice.Brown rice requires two or more cups of water foreach cupof rice.In steaming, you can enrich the flavor of plain riceby cooking with vegetable stock, bouillon or tomatojuice. If tom ato juice seems too extravagant, use w aterto which tomato paste has been added. A pinch ofpowdered saffron in the water will tint the kernels adelicate yellow.Wild rice, more expensive than regular varieties, is


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RICE FOR DINNER 41Rice provides the bulk for so many different meatless roasts that it is impossible to do m ore than suggestsome of the variations. You will makethemu p as you

go along, utilizing left-overs and whatever is in thecupboard at the mom ent. T h efollowingrecipe is onlya background for further elaboration.

SAVORY RICE ROAST(Serves 6 or 7)2y2 cups cooked rice 2 teaspoons W orcester-2 tablespoons chopped shire sauceonion 1 cup diced celery1clove garlic, finely 2 tablespoons fatminced 1egg, well beaten1 teaspoon chopped 1 tablespoon choppedparsley green pepper

Salt and pepperLet onion, garlic, green pepper and celery simmerin fat 5 minutes. Combine with all other ingredientsand blend thoro ughly. T h e m ixture should be just ableto hold itsshape.If too d ry , moisten w ith milk or vegetable stock . T u rn into a greased loaf pan and bake in amoderate oven for 54 hour.To this roast may be added any one of the following, or a combination of them.

2 eggs, hard cooked andchoppedYxcup mushrooms,cleaned and brownedin cooking oilLeft-over tomatoes,eggplant, carrots, etc .

% toY2 cup chopped nutmeatsAppropriate seasonings, depending onthe ingredients used.For example, basilor thyme w ith to matoes


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42 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TTaste the mixture often as you are putting it together, to decide just what more should be added, remembering that baking will emphasize individual flavors. Serve it with a gravy to make it seem more likea meat loaf and to give added tang.

STUFFED PEPPERS #2(Serves 6)

W h e n green bell peppers are in season, this simplerecipewill furnish variety and color to your rice dinners.6 green peppers x/2 to 1 teaspoon curry2 cups cooked rice powder, depending4 tomatoes, chopped onyour taste1 small onion, chopped Salt and pepper1 tablespoon cooking oil

Cut off tops and remove centers from peppers.Cover with hot water and simmer 20 minutes. Mean-wh ile, brow n onion in oil. T o it add tomatoes and riceand cook about 15 minutes. Add seasonings and removefromheat. Stuff peppers w ith this mixture. Coverthe tops with fine breadcrumbs, and set peppers in apan with about Yi inch of water in it. Bake in moderate oven until crumbs brown. Serve on a platter witha gravy passed separately if you wish. (See ChapterEleven.)

RICE MOLDSAs a change from boiled rice, tr y serving it in a ringor as timbales. To do so, follow the procedure for

boiled rice, but d rain itafter only ten minutes of cooking, and return it to the stove and finish cooking in 1Yzcups of vegetable stock, tomato juice, or 1Yi cups ofwater in which a heaping tablespoon of tomatopaste


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RICE FOR DIN NE R 43has been dissolved. A teaspoon of cu rry p ow der in theliquid gives a lively flavor, too. (Use one cup of rawrice to each given amount of cooking liquid.) Whenall the liquid has been absorbed, pack the rice into wellgreased timbale pans or a ring mold, set in a pan of hotwater and bake for about ten minutes in a mediumoven. Either creamed or curried eggs are deliciousserved with these molds.

RICE A LA CREOLE(Serves 4 or 5)1 cup rice 1 tomato, cut in small2 tablespoons cooking oil piecesor fat 1 onion, mincedAbout 6 mushrooms, J4 teaspoon saffron (op-sliced tional)2 tablespoons minced

gre*npepperCook rice in boiling salted water until just done, anddrain. Saute onion and green pepper in oil 5 minutes,add the mushrooms and cook two minutes.Then addtomato, rice and seasoning. Cover and cook over verylow flame about 10minutes to allow flavors to blend.Risotto is a method of treating rice which is highlyregarded by many for the rich quality impartedto thefinished dish. The process is simply to wash and drythe raw rice, fry it a delicate brown in butter, fat oroil, and complete the cooking in a liquid. During frying the rice has to be stirred to prevent burning, butafter the liquid has been added, keep the spoon far

away. If the rice dries out before it is tender, add moreliquid. A lways use a very low flame so the rice w ill notburn.


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44 C O O K I N G W I T H O U T M E A T

I22I

32

SAVORY RICE WITH HERBS(Serves

cup raw ricetablespoons cooking oilonions, finely mincedclove garlic, finelymincedcups stock or bouillonteaspoons parsley,chopped

4or5)Yi teaspoon dried summersavory or thymei teaspoon dried marjoram2 tablespoons minced

chervil, if desiredY2 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons white wine,if desired

Cook on ion and garl ic in oil 5 minu tes . Add riceand cook, r isot to fashion, unti l it tu rns l igh t b rown.M ix in all seasoning ingredients and half the s tock.C o v e r andcook w i thou t s t i r r ing over low flame untill iquid evaporates . Then add remainder of s tock andcook unti l r iceist ender . Serve imm edia te ly .A simpletomato , ce le ry or mushroom gravy wi l l add fillip tothe dish.

B R A Z I L I A N RICE(Serves4 or 5)

Chil i powder i sanapp ropria te add i t iontor ice c om binations. This dish uses just enough to leave a w a r mreminder af ter each mouthful .cuprawricetablespoonsfat or oilmedium onion, slicedclove garlic, mincedteaspoons chili powdercups canned or stewedtomatoes,or3 heaping

tablespoons tomatopaste dissolvedin 2cups hotwaterorbrothtablespoon choppedparsleyor chervil


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R I C E F O R D I N N E R 47mar joram, wine , sa l t and pepper , and cook coveredov er a low f lame unt i l liquid is absorbed . T h e n addmushrooms and water they soaked in and cont inues low cook ing unt i l r i ce is t end er . W h e n do ne , mixcheese in l ightly and serve at once.

E A S T I N D I A N S A U C E(Serves 6)T h is i s a par t icular favori te . T h e results are so goodthat squandering a whole can of precious tomatoes isentirely just if ied, and gourmets wil l be del ighted.However , i f the can of tomatoes can ' t be spared, usefrom 4 to one six-oun ce can of to m at o paste dissolvedin 2Yzcup s of boi l ing w at er or vegetable br o th . O m it

f lour and cook l ike a r i sot to . Otherwise, East IndianSauce is served over a mound of f luffy rice, or in thece nte r of a r ice ring .1 large onion, chopped % teaspoon ground1 clove garlic, minced fine cloves1 N o . 2 can tomatoes Dash cayen ne pepp er2 teaspoons celery salt 1 cup sliced mushrooms,1 teaspo on sugar boiled 5 m inutes in1 teaspoon cinnamon 1cup w ater1 teaspoon ginger 1 tablespoon fat or oil

1/2 tablespoons flourSlowly cook tomatoes , onion, gar l ic , celery sal t ,sugar, spices and cayenne for 30 m inute s in saucep an.

In another pan mel t fat and blend in f lour , cooking5 minutes . To th i s add mushrooms and water theysoaked in. St ir and cook unti l smooth and add totom ato mix tu re . Cook s lowly toge ther ano ther 15m i n utes and serve with rice.


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48 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TBAKED RICE AND CHEESE

(See Index)RICE AND CHEESE SOUFFLfe

(See Index)CHINESE EGGS

(See Index)FRENCH RICE(Serves 5 or 6)

Green peppers lend their distinction here.1 cup raw rice 1 teaspoonsalt1 large onion, sliced thin 2 tablespoons cooking oil2 green peppers, l/2 cup canned tomatoes, orchopped 3 fresh, or 1 table-2Y2 cups stock or water spoon tomato pastey4 teaspoon pepper inY2cup waterFry onion and green peppers in oil for 5 minutes.Add rice, and stir until it begins to turn color. Then

add tomatoes, seasonings, and stock. Simmer coveredand without stirringnnril rice is tender. If necessary,add more stock.RICE RING(Serves 5 or 6)

This is a more complicated version of th e rice ring ,and an especially tastyone.Fill the cen ter w ith a greenor yellow vegetable, perhaps carrots cooked to perfection, and you will have in one dish a whole meal.


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RICE FOR DIN NE R 491 cup raw rice 1beatenegg1 teaspoon salt 1teaspoon mixed dried1 large onion, minced herbs: marjoram,1 clove garlic, minced basil, and thymeYi cup sliced mushrooms 2 tablespoons choppedsoaked in l/2cup boil- parsleying water % cup grated Parmesan2 tablespoons cooking oil cheese1 sweet green pepper,choppedBrown the rice in 1tablespoon oil, and add 2 cupsboiling water and1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook overslow fire 20 minutes. Meanwhile, fry minced garlic,onion , and green pepper in remaining tablespoon of oilfor 10 minutes. When rice is cooked, turn it into abowl and mix with all ingredients. Season with saltand turn into greased ring meld. Bake in moderateovenYihour, turn on to ho t platter and fill w ith chosenvegetable.Th ese recipesforrice bynom eans exhaust the possibilities for interesting combinations. From the suggestions given, however, you should be able to inventmore of your own, never forgetting to vary the herbsand seasonings to keep this grain food from becoming

monotonous.


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VISPAGHETTI AND MACARONI

Do not be dismayed or incredulous if I claim forspaghetti and her sister forms an exalted place in anydiet, for they can be thoroughly delicious if preparedproperly, and dressed with a variety of succulentsauces. As the Italians have given these wh eat productsthe attention and careful preparation they deserve,many of the recipes to follow will be reminiscent ofan Italian kitchen. It is these people, too, who maketheir spaghetti in imaginative forms to please the eyeas well as the palate. If you would have variety, visitan Italian grocer with his fascinating array of multi-formed spaghetti.Recently there have been innovations in the spaghe tti and macaroni field. Soybean flour is no w used inmaking a produ ct that is reputed to be lower in starch.So far, healthfoodstores are the best sources of sup ply .Ano ther relatively new macaroniisTenderoni ,apopular brand that lives up to its claim of tenderness. Andit cooks in only seven minutes.

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SPAGHETTI AND MACARONI 51Theshape of spaghetti or m acaroni m akes nodiffer-ence in the method of cooking, though the finely cut

types do not take as much time. Always use a largekettle of well salted, boiling water, introducing thespaghetti only after the water is briskly bubbling.Cooking time is from 10 to 20 minutes for most varieties, but judge by the condition of the spaghettirather than by following a rigid time schedule. Itshould be removed while there is still firmness in thestrings ofpaste. Watch itcarefidly, anddonHlet it getentirely soft.As soon as it is done, quickly drain it ina colander, removingallthe water. Dress it w ith sauceor oil imm ediately andrushthe steaming platter to thetable.If you wish to save last minute confusion in thekitchen, or are preparing some other dish that requiresattention just before the meal is served, the spaghettimay be partially cooked ahead of time, drained in acolander and rinsed thoroughly in cold, running waterand set aside until needed. Just before serving it isplaced in a colander again and immersed in rapidlyboiling water for half a minute, or until done, anddressed immediately.Le t us begin spaghetti recipes withasimple one,sufficient for serving four or five people, depending ontheir appetites.

SPAGHE T T I WIT H ONIONSy4 pound spaghetti 4 tablespoons butter orYi cup chives, or % cup substitutenew onions, minced 6 tablespoons grated Par-fine mesan or Romanocheese


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52 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TW hi le spaghetti is cook ing according to directions,cut butter in small pieces and mince chives or onions.Drain spaghetti well, put in hot saucepan which has atigh t cover, and add onions. Stir slightly before addingpieces of butter and grated cheese. Cover pan andshake it briskly up and down for about 5 minutes.Then turn onto hot platter and serve immediately.T hi s whole process takes such a short time tha t eve ryone should be ready to eat before the spaghetti isdressed.The following sauces are sufficient to dress % toone pound of spaghetti, and to serve from four to sixpeople, depending on their appetites. To dress spaghetti, spoon about lAof the sauce into a large platter.Add half the spaghetti and spoon another third of thesauce onto it. Then with large fork and spoon lift the

spaghetti carefully as though you were preparing agreen choppedsalad.W h en sauceismixed thoro ugh ly,add rem ainder of spaghetti and sauce, mix gen tly again.Afew spoonfulsof sauce should be saved to put on topof the pile ofdressed spaghetti. Serve immediately.If you wish to skimp a little with the tomato paste,or to make the sauce serve more than six people without using more tomato, it can be done easily. Themethod is not orthodox, but even if purists hold uptheir hands in horror at the thought of putting flourinto Italian spaghetti sauce, the measure is justified asa war-tim e eco nom y. T o the recipes as given, add oneheaping tablespoon of flour or rice polish mixed withenough w ater to make a smooth paste. Also add a scantcup of vegetable broth or water. If you are makinghalf the recipe, add just half the amount of flour andextra stock. These sauces should be rather thin anyway, never the consistency of thick white sauce. The


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54 C O O K I N G W I T H O U T M E A Tdrained spaghet t i and serve immediately w i th g ra tedcheese or nutmeg.

S P A G H E T T I S A U C Etablespoons cooking oilcloves garlic, m inced fineonion, mincedcarrot, grated orshreddedtablespoons mincedgreen pepper

i 6-ounce can tomatopaste3 cups vegetable broth orwaterl/4 teaspoon dried thyme% teaspoon dried marjoramSalt and pepper

Slowly cook gar l ic , onion , car ro t and green pepperin oil for 10 m inu tes . A d d remain ing ingred ien ts andseason. Stir well and cook for about 20 minutes. Dresshot, drained spaghett i and serve with grated cheese.

H E R B S A U C Eonion, mincedclove garlic, mincedtablespoons cooking oilcup chopped green pars

leyheaping tablespoonmixed dried herbs:thyme, marjoram andbasil

Y2cup wh ite w ine (ma ybe omitted)Yi cup sliced mushrooms3 cups vegetable broth orwater1 6-ounce can tomatopastePinch allspice, cloves,and nutmegSalt and pe ppe r

Cook onion and garl ic in oil about 10 minu tes .M eanw hi le , p repare mu shroom s and bo il 5 m inu tes inthe vegetable bro th or hot water . Add them, with a l lo ther ingredients , to onion and gar l ic . Cook s lowly


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S P A G H E T T I A N D M A C A R O N I 55abo ut 54 hour . Serve w ith gra ted cheese , and yo u w il lhave a dish that is hard to surpass.

C H I L I S A U C E F O R S P A G H E T T I2 tablespoons cooking oil 3 cups vegetable bro th oror fat water1 onion, minced 1 green pepper, chopped1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon chili po w der , or

*4 cu p cho ppe d parsley m ore to taste1 6-ounce can tomato 1 teaspoon saltpaste PepperCook onion and gar l ic in o i l 10 min u tes . Ad d r e maining ingredients and cook s lowly for about Yzhour . Dress hot , dra ined spaghet t i and serve immediate ly .

M E X I C A N S P A G H E T T I(Serves 5 or 6)

Along our Sou thern border th i s method o f p repar ing spaghett i is popular .2 tablespoons fat or oil l/2 teaspoon salt1 large onion, chopped 1 chili pepper, or y2 tea-Yi po un d spaghetti spoon chili po w de rz cups stewed or canned Dash cayenne peppertomatoes 1/2 cups boiling water

Heat fat in large saucepan, and break spaghett i intwo- inch lengths . Cook spaghet t i and onion s lowly infat unt i l light br ow n. A d d tom atoes and seasonings andcon t inue s low cook ing un t i l tomatoes b reak up . Thenadd boi l ing water and s immer unt i l water is absorbedand spaghet t i is ten de r . If necessary , add m o r e hotwate r .


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56 C O O K I N G W I T H O U T M E A TMUSHROOM CASSEROLE

(Serves 6)% pound mushrooms, i small onion, minced orsliced sliced thini cup boiling water 2 tablespoons flourYi pound noodles, any 2 tablespoons fat or oilwidth 1cup milkSalt and pepper

Cover sliced mushrooms with boiling water andsimmer 5minutesnomo re. Meanwhile, set the n oo dles to boiling in plenty of salted water. In a saucepan,melt thefatand cook onions until soft. Mix in flour andcook 5 minutes. To this, gradually add the milk, stirring until you have a smooth whke sauce. Then addthe mushrooms with the water they cooked in andcontinue cooking a few m inutes. Season, and po ur thesauce over a casserole filled with the cooked noodles.Cover and bake in a m oderate oven 15to 20 minutes.

NOODLES WITH GREEN BEANS(Serves 6)

A lthough beans are called for in this dish, othe r vegetables may be substituted. It is a handy recipe forusing up a cup or two of cooked vegetables, and youwill have a hearty main dish to boot. The amount ofgreen peppers may be reduced to suit either yo ur purseor taste.2 cups stewed or canned 2 tablespoons fattomatoes Salt and pepper3 green peppers l/2 pound noodles, cooked1 to 2 cups cooked stringbeans


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SPAG HETT I AN D MACARONI 57After removing seeds and veins, chop the green p ep pers and fry in fat for 10minutes. If desired, set asidea portion of the chopped pepper to sprinkle over top

of casserole later. Then add tomatoes and beans topeppers and season. Simmer 5 or 10 minutes longer.Fill casserole with cooked noodles, make a depressionin the center, and fill w ith bean mixture. Sprinkle topwith any chopped green pepper you have saved. Unless cooked noodles are piping hot, put casserole inmoderate oven for a few minutes to heat thoroughly.MACARONI WITH CHEESE AND TOMATOES

(SeeIndex)MACARONI LOAF

(Serves 6)This loaf will prove as versatile as the rice roastsdescribed in Chapter Five.The recipe is not a strictformula, only a suggestion of what can be done tomake a dinner dish out of very little. T h e eggs helptoknit the whole together. If you reduce their number,another binding agent must be used, like flour orricepolish.

1 cup uncooked macaroni 1 tablespoon minced pars-1 teaspoon onion juice ley3 eggs, beaten i tablespoon minced eel-i cup milk, heated ery leaves, or 1 tea-2 tablespoons green pep- spoon celery saltper, finely chopped 1 cup shredded American1 cup bread crumbs cheeseSalt and pepperCook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender.Drain and chop. Mix thoroughly with all other in-


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58 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tgredients and season. Turn into greased loaf tin andset in a pan of ho t water. Bake a half hour or longer ina moderate oven. Serve with a gravy, preferably tomato. (See Chapter Eleven) These ingredients mayalso be turne d into a greased ring mold and th e cen terfilled with a vegetable or creamed eggs.

CHEESE CAKES OVER SPAGHETTI(See Index)


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V I IC H E E S E F O R M E A T L E S S D A Y S

M ellow or sharp or in between, cheese is a constantsource of gastronomic pleasure, and it contains thesame high quality protein that meat does. M ost Am erican made cheese, says the Department of Agriculture,is of the Cheddar variety, made from whole milk andthereforea good source of the illusive vitamin A . Likemilk, it should always be stored, well-covered, in therefrigerator.There are a few general rules to follow in cookingwith cheese that will help you to preserve the maximum food value and to obtain smooth texture.Cheese should be heated slowly and the fat allowedto melt and mix evenly with any other ingredients.Maintain this low temperature throughout the entirecook ing process, either by baking in a slow oven or bycooking over water, to keep the cheese from curdlingor becoming leathery. You will find cheese blendsmore easily if it has first been grated or cut into smallpieces and this also reduces the cooking time.To vary your servings of cheese, experiment with59


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60 CO O K IN G W IT H O U T MEA Tdifferent kinds. Smoked cheese, for instance, adds aspecial tang to baked m acaroni, and it melts easily, too .The best cheese for grating is either Parmesan or Romano, and for best results, grate it yourself. Ready-grated cheese is more convenient, bu t it loses its flavorquickly and is a disappointment compared to thehome-grated variety.It 's up to y ou to keep you r familyinterestedin meatless meals so don't let this important food becomemonotonous. Serve it many ways, and serve manykinds.

COTTAGE CHEESE LOAF(Serves 6)

The most primitive form of cheese is the curd,which is called cottage cheese. Many people prefer itplain, but it combines easily with other foods to makethe main dish of a meal.Yi pound cottage cheese Y2 cup chopped peanuts or2 eggs, beaten walnuts, or2 heaping$4 teaspoon salt tablespoons peanutPepper butter1 teaspoon Worcester- 1cup bread crumbsshire sauce 2 cups milk

Y2 teaspoon dried sageStir cottage cheese, seasonings, chopped nuts andbread crumbs into beaten eggs. Add milk and mixthoroughly. Pour into greased baking dish, set in apan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven for

about 40 minutes, or until the mixture has set. Servewith a tomato or mushroom gravy. (See ChapterEleven.)


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CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS 61CHEESE AND NUT LOAF

(Serves 6)l/z pound American 4 tablespoons mincedcheese onion1 cup chopped walnuts 2 teaspoons lemon juice2 cupssoftbread crumbs Salt and pepper1/3 cups milk l/i teaspoon dried mar-2 eggs, beaten joram2 tablespoons cookingoil or fatCut cheese into small pieces and mix with choppednuts, bread crumbs, milk and beaten eggs. Set asidewhile onion is fried in oil to a golden b row n. Combinewith first mixture and add other ingredients, stirring

well. Bake in greased casserole or loaf pan set in hotwater for 40 to 50 minutes at 375 degrees. Thisloaf,also,should be served w ith a gravy , preferably tom ato .

WELSH RAREBIT(Serves 6)The familiar rarebit is a standard cheese dish whichcan be varied easily by the addition of afew seasoningingredients. This is only one basic recipe:

2 tablespoons fat Pepper2 tablespoons flour l/2 teaspoon mustard2 cups milk 54 to1pound sharp cheese,1 teaspoon salt shaved or cut fineIn th e top of a double bo iler, make a w hite sauce ofthe first 6 ingredients. W h e n well blended, add cheese,cooking and stirring until cheeseismelted and the mix-


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62 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Tture thick and smooth. Serve over crisp saltines ortoast.

For v ariety add one of the following, or a com bination of several:y2 cup chopped olivesi or2eggs,slightly beaten (Addaftercheese has meltedand continue cooking until mixture has thickened)%/2 onion, minced fine (Cook in fat before flour has beenadded in makingawhite sauce roux)l/2 sweet green pepper (Add like onion)l/t cup chopped celery (Add like onion)i teaspoon Worcestershire or soy saucel/t teaspoon dried marjoram or thym e

T h e taste may also be changed slightly by usingdifferent kinds of cheese such as Edam, pineapple, Swiss*Parmesan,orsmoked.POACHED EGG RAREBIT

(6 servings)lAVz

I2II

to l/zpound sharpcheesemedium onion, mincedfineclove garlic, halvedtablespoons cooking oilor fatgeneroustablespoonflourteaspoon Worcestershire or soy sauce

Yii

teaspoon dried marjoramcan condensed tomatosoup mixed with%.cup milk,or i heaping tablespoon tomato paste mixedwith i cup milkSalt and pepper6 eggs6 slices toastSaute onions and garlic in oil 5 minutes. Removegarlic and add tomato soup and milk (or paste andmilk) .When hot, stir in cut-up cheese. Continue stirring until cheese is melted. (If tomato paste is used,


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C H E E S E F O R M E A T L E S S D A Y S 63the mixture may not be thick enough. In that case adda tablespoon of flour or rice polish, mixed to a pastein a l i tt le w ate r . ) A d d soy sauce, seasoning and m arjo ram. Place poached eggs on toast and pour saucear ou nd eggs . Plain rareb i t m ay be served the same w ay .

T O M A T O R A R E B I T(Serves 4or 5)

Yi pound cheese 1 6-ounce can tomato2 tablespoons fat or oil paste dissolved in 21 teaspoon prepared mus- cups hot w ater, or1tard N o . 2 can tomatoes1 teaspoon Worcester- Y2 green pepper, choppedshire or soy sauce Dash cay enn e pepp er2 small onions, minced 54 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Saute onions and green pepper in fat . Add tomatom ixture and s imm er f rom 20 to 30 m inutes . T h e n addremainder of ingredients , and cheese cut into smallpieces. Stir constantly until cheese is melted and serveimmediately over salt ines or crisp toast . Potato chipsor French fries and pickles are agreeable side dishes.

M E X I C A N R A R E B I T(Serves 4 or 5)H e r e is a rarebi t w ith adifferent accent .

Y2tablespoon fat Y2 cup stewed or cannedl/2 green pepper, chopp ed tomatoes, or 1 heap-l/2 po un d cheese, shaved or ing teaspoon tomatocut fine paste1 egg, beaten l/2 cup bread crumbs1 cup corn, canned or cut % teaspoon wild marjo-from the cob ram54 teaspoon salt


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64 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TMeltfatin top of double boileroverdirect heat, andcook chopped pepper in it until softened. Set over hot

water , add cheese and stir until cheese melts. T o beatencgg^add saltandcorn and stir into cheese m ixture . (Iffresh corn is used, it may be necessary to add lA cupthin white sauce.) Then add tomatoes and crumbs.When heated thoroughly, serve over toast or saltines.So muchfor rarebits.

CHEESE SOUFFLE WITH SAUCE(Serves 4 or 5)

In prep aring this souffle, first make 2 cups of w hitesauce to be used in both the souffle and the tomatosauce which accompanies it. Use2 tablespoons of flourto each cup of milk to achieve the proper consistencyfor both recipes.1 cup chopped or shaved 1 teaspoon Worcester-cheese shire sauce or soy3 eggs, separated sauce1 cup white sauce Salt and pepper

H ea t w hite sauce in top of double boiler and add toit the cheese and beaten egg yolks. Stir until cheesemelts and m ixture is sm ooth. Fold in stiffly beaten eggwhites and pour into greased baking dish or individualmolds set in hot water. Bake at 375 degrees about 15minutes, or until eggs are set. Serve immediately, asthe souffle begins to fall when removed from oven.The accompanying sauce should be prepared as soonas the souffle is in the oven so it will be ready at thesame time.


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CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS 65TOMATO CREAM SAUCE

(Makes1Y2cups)1 cup white sauce 54 teaspoon dried basil2 tablespoons tomato paste 54 bayleafin 54 cup water or yA teaspoon dried thymestock l/2 teaspoon celery salt1 onion, minced Saltto taste1 heaping teaspoon fat oroilCook onion in fat until yellow. Add white sauceand, when heated, mix in remaining ingred ients, seasonto taste, and serve.Keep this sauce in mind when you try any of thenext four dishes.It is a natural companion for aUofthem.

BAKED RICE AND CHEESE(Serves 6)

3 cups cooked rice 2 tablespoons butter orJ4 teaspoon salt margarine, if desired1 cup milk Fine bread crumbs2 cups cut-up cheese Dash cayenne pepper

Put a layer of cooked rice in a greased baking dish,cover witha layer of cheese, and season with salt andcayenne. Continue adding layers until the dish is almost full. Add enough milk to come half way to thetop of the rice. Cover with crumbs, dot with butter(if you have it ), and bake in a moderate oven untilthe crumbs brown.


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66 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TRICE AND CHEESE SOUFFLfi

(Serves 6)2 cups cooked rice 54 cup very sharp cheese,2 tablespoons flour or i cup cut-up2 tablespoons fat or oil American cheese54 cup milk, heated 3 eggs, separatedSalt and cayenne pepperMelt fat in top of double boiler and cook flour in it5 minutes. Add milk gradually and cook over hotwater until smooth and thick. Add well-beaten eggyolks and rice. Cook another 5 minutes before addingcheese. Stir until cheese melts, and then season. Foldin stiffly beaten egg whites and pour into greased casserole. Set in pan of hot w ate r and bake at 375 degrees

about 20 minutes.CHEESE TIMBALES

Follow recipeforCheese Souffle or R ice and CheeseSouffle, pouring batter into greased timbale molds ormuffin tins. When baked, arrange on platter and pourTomato Cream Sauce over them.

POLENTA WITH CHEESE(Serves 4 or 5)

1 cup corn meal 1 teaspoon salt4 cups boiling water 54 cup grated cheesePour one cup of boiling water over corn meal andlet stand until it swells, then add the rest of the water,salted. Cook over direct flame for 5 minutes, stirringconstantly. Turn into a greased baking dish or ring


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C H E E S E F O R M E A T L E S S D A Y S 67mold and bake a t 300 degrees for two hours . Jus t before i t is done, s t i r in cheese and return to oven unt i lcheese mel ts . Serve wi th Tomato Cream Sauce, or f i l lthe r ing wi th vegetables .

V E G E T A B L E A N D C H E E S E C A S S E R O L EIf i t ' s 2 cup s of left -over vegetables y o u h ave, an dsix or seven people to serve,follow these direct ions fora hear ty d inner or supper d ish .

1Y2 cups shaved orchopped AmericancheeseSalt and pepper

154 cups scalded milk1 cup bread crumbsl/4 cup melted butter orsubstitute1 tablespoon parsley,chopped3 tablespoons onion,chopped54 cup mushrooms, sliced

teaspoon summer savory4 beaten eggs2 cups cooked vegetables (peas, beans,corn, etc.)

Mix al l ingredients together, season and pour intogreased casserole. Set dish in hot water and bake in as low ovenfor abou t 54 hour or until firm.

C H E E S E R I N G(Serves 4 or 5)

4 tablespoons fat5 tablespoons flour2 cups milkYi teaspoon salt154 cups cut-up Americancheese2 tablespoons choppedgreen pepper

lA

tablespoons choppedcelerytablespoons mincedonionteaspoon prepared mustardeggs, beaten separately


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68 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TMake a roux of fat and flour. When blended, addmilk and cook until creamy. Add cheese and seasonings andstir untilcheese melts. Add all other ingredi

ents, mixing lightly. Pour into greased ring mold andset in pan of hot water. Bake about 35minutes at350degrees.Unmold carefully, and serve with the chosencreamed vegetable.MACARONI WITH CHEESE AND TOMATOES

(Serves 5 or 6)2 54 cups canned or stewed l/2 pound macaronitomatoes, or 6 heap- l/2 pound cheese, prefera-ing tablespoons to- bly sharpmatopaste in2 cups Salt and pepperhot water

While macaroni is boiling in salted water, heat thetomatoes in a saucepan and add the cheese after cutting it into small pieces. Heat until cheese is melted,stirring occasionally to prevent sticking or burning.Mix the macaroni and sauce in a casserole, cut morecheese, in slivers, overthe top, and bake uncovered inmoderate oven until cheese begins to brown.

MACARONI LOAF(See Index)BOSTON ROAST

(See Index)CHEESE CAKES OVER SPAGHETTI

(Serves 6 to 8)A crisp green salad is the only addition necessaryto make the meal complete.


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CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS 692 cups soft bread crumbs1 cup grated cheese1 egg, beaten2 54 cups water3 tablespoons cookingoil3 cloves garlic, minced

1 6-ounce can tomatopaste1 teaspoonsalt54 teaspoon dried thym eor basilY2pou nd spaghetti,cooked and seasonedwith grated cheese

Combine first three ingredients with 54 cup water.Form into eight flat cakes and fry in hot cooking oiluntil brown on both sides. Set cakes aside and cookgarlic in remaining oil until brown. Add tomato paste,salt and 2 cups water. Cook to boiling point beforeputting cheese cakes into this sauce. Reduce heat verylow, cover, and cook for 54 hour, adding more waterif necessary. Arrange cooked and seasoned spaghettion a ho t platter, pu t cheese cakes on top , and cover allwith tomato sauce.

Before leaving cheese,areminder that toasted cheesesandwiches are hard to surpass as the main attractionat luncheon or supper. Either open-faced or toastedwith the cheese inside, they are appropriately accompanied by a tossed green salad for a well-balanced,delicious meal.


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THE LEGUME FAMILY 71again with fresh. Allow them to simmer (not boil)about two hours. With a pressure cooker, this time isreduced to between 3 5and 40 minutes. T h e beans arethen ready for further treatment before reaching thetable.

SOYBEAN LOAF(Serves 4 or 5)

Here is an example of what can be done with soybeans, though other dried beans may be substituted.1 cup dried soybeans, or 4 tablespoons chopped2 54 cupsleft-over green pepperbaked beans 4 tablespoons flouri4 cup bacon drippings or 2 cups milkfat 1 tablespoon salt3 tablespoons chopped 54 teaspoon dried summeronion savory1 cup dry bread crumbs

Cook beans as directed and drain; mash, if desired.In bacon drippings or fat, cook chopped onion andgreen pepperforat least5minutes. A dd flour and cooka few minutes before adding milk gradually with saltand summer savory. Stir and cook to the bo iling point,then add beans and pour the whole mixture into agreased loaf pan or casserole. Top with bread crumbs,butter or margarine if you wish and bake in a moderate oven for 30 minutes. When crumbs are browned,remove and serve with a prepared tomato sauce likeketchup or chili sauce. If you prefer, make your ownsauce, choosing one of the well seasoned recipes fromChapter Eleven.


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72 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TBAKED BEANS

(Serves 6 to 8)i pint beans (soy or pea 2 tablespoons molassesbeans) 1 teaspoon mustard1 tablespoon salt K cup fat or bacon drip-1 onion, chopped P^gs

Cook beansasdirected un til tende r and place in baking dish. Mix molasses, mustard and salt in cup andfill with hot water, blending thoroughly. Stir meltedfat and chopped onion in to beans and po ur in molassesmixture. Add water to cover and bake at 300 degreesfor 6 or 8 hours. Except for last hour, keep adding water to cover.If yo u are no t well acquainted w ith the dried legumegroup, you may be surprised at the range of selection.A m ong the beans there are navy, kidney, Great N o rt h ern,fave,Californiaw hite, pin to, small red, cranb erry ,lima and pink. Groceries catering to a Spanish, Mexican or Italian clientele sometimes have varieties notcarried in other stores.As dried peas, beans and lentils are prepared andserved much like soybeans, the directionsfor cookingsoys may be followed with good results, with one exception: unless you are preparing a legume of strongflavor, cook in the soaking water to save minerals andvitamins. To keep the skins from toughening, use softwater when possible. One cup of dried peas or beansyields from two to three cups when cooked.Let's see what elsecan be done with these moneysavers.


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T H E L E G U M E F A M IL Y 73R E D B E A N S W I T H S A U C E

(Serves 6)154 cu p red kidne y beans yo u have it)154 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons olive o r1 cho ppe d onion cooking oil1 clove garlic, chop ped 2 green onions, w ith topsfine 54 CUP chopped green54 teaspooncumin seed (if pars ley

Soak beans ov ern igh t . Before co ok ing, drain and addfrom four to f ive cups f resh water . Add sal t , choppedonion, chopped gar l ic and cumin seed. Cook slowlyunt i l very tender , about two hours . By th is t ime thew at er shou ld be almost go ne . M ix 3 tablespoons ol iveoil , ch op pe d green onions w i th tops and cho pp ed parsley wi th beans. A d d m or e salt if needed , and set in ov enfor 15to 20 m inutesbefore serv ing wi th the fo l lowingsauce:

B A K E D B E A N S A U C E(Makes 2 or more cups)

2 tablespoons cooking oil 54 cup vegetable stock or1 small onion , chopped bouillon1 small green pepper, 1 6-ounce can tomatocho ppe d paste mixed w ith 2 541 clove garlic, cho pped cups w ater, or 2 cups2 teaspoons chili po w de r stewed toma toesSalt and pepperCook onion, green pepper , and gar l ic in oi l for 10minutes. Add remainder of ingredients , season to taste ,and simmer about an hour , s t i r r ing occasional ly to preven t an y s t ick ing . T h e sauce m ay be mixed in wi th thebeans or served separately at the table.


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74 C O O K I N G W I T H O U T M E A TB O S T O N R O A S T

(Serves 6)Ch eese gives this roas t adifferent accent .

iy2 cups dried kidne y 3 tablespoons cho ppe dbeans onion3 tablespoons salt 1 cup bread crumbs1 to 2 cup s grated cheese 54 c up m ilkSoak beans 24 hours . Cook unt i l sof t in water with

3 tablespoons sal t . Drain and mash or chop the beans .Mix in onion, cheese, crumbs and enough milk tomois ten. Add more sal t i f necessary and put in greasedloaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes .

S P A N I S H S A U C E(Makes 154 to 2 cups)

The Baked Bean Sauce, or this one, is sui table forserv ingwith the Boston Roast .i large onion 4 tablespoons ho t w ate r or1 green pep per, seeded bro th2 tablespoons olive or Dash Tab asc o or ca y-

cook ing oil enne pepp er2 large ripe tomatoes, or 3 1 teaspoon vinegarsmall Salt and pepp er2 teaspoons minced parsleySlice onion and green p ep per in ve ry th in r ings . F r ytog eth er s low ly in o i l. W h e n tend er , add unp eeled ,

thinly s l iced tomatoes , sal t , pepper and pars ley. Cookvery gen t ly fo r 10 minutes , keeping tomato s l iceswhole . Add a l i t t le hot water or bro th , a dash of Tabasco, and the vinegar . Sl ide into hot sauce dish without breaking tomato s l ices or onion r ings .


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T H E LEGU M E FAMILY 75CURRIED BEANS

(Serves 6 to 8)2 cups kidney beans cooking oil1 large onion, chopped 1 tablespoon sugar1 tart apple, chopped 2 teaspoons curry powder1 clove garlic, chopped 1cup canned or stewed to -Pinch thym e matoes, or 2 table-Salt and cayenne pepper spoons tomato paste2 tablespoons olive or with 1 cup waterSoak beans overnight and drain thoroughly. Coverwith 2 quarts of boiling water and 2 teaspoons salt.Cook about two hours, or until tender. Just beforebeans are done , fry onion , garlic and apple in oil5m inutes. Then add salt and a dash of cayenne, sugar andtomatoes. W h e n w ell blended, add curry pow der. Mixw ith cooked, drained beans and fill baking dish. A dd alittle bean broth and save the rest to add if beans gettoo dry. Bake in slow oven from three to four hours,covered.

INDIAN EGGS(See Index)

LIMA BEAN ROAST(Serves 6)

If your family likes the flavor of peanuts in a beanroast, this recipe will be a favorite. They may beomitted, however, with results surprisingly good.


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7


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T H E L E G U M E F A M IL Y 77P E A T I M B A L E S

(Serves 4 to 6)1 cup dried peas 1 teaspoon minced fresh2 eggs, beaten mint, or 54 teaspoon54 teasp oon salt dried2 tablespoons cooking oil 1 teaspoon minced parsley1 teaspoon sugar Pepp er1 teaspoon finely mincedonionSoak peas overn ight . Leaving only enough water tocover , cook with sal t , sugar and onion unti l peas arete n d er . Skim off an y skins th at rise to the surface, dra in,and mash thoroughly. Add the eggs, seasonings, o i l ,

min t and pars ley . Put mix ture in bu t tered t imbalemolds or muffin t ins. Set in pan of hot water and bakein moderate oven unti l f i rm. Serve with a creamedvegetable or a tomato sauce. (For sauce, see ChapterEleven . )

L IM A B E A N T I M B A L E S(Serves 4 or 5)

O n e last, s imple recip efor d r ied beans.Although theexample given uses limas, other beans or peas may besub st i tu ted, and the herbs var ied. T h is is a go od w ay touse lef t-overs, but because the molds are apt to bera ther dry , they should a lways be served wi th a gravyor sauce.1 cu p dried lima beans, or 3 eggs, beaten3 cups cooked beans 54 teaspoon sageof an y kind Salt and pep per

% cup bread crumbs


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78 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A TCook beans as usual. When well done, drain andmash. Add remaining ingredients, mix well, and fillgreased timbale m olds or muffin tins.Bake in m oderateoven until firm, about 30 or 40 minutes. A n y tomatosauce or gravy is suitable for these timbales, whetherflavored with ho t chili po w der or the mildest of seasonings.


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5

I XE G G D I S H E S

Every additionalegg in the diet means added foodvalue and extra "protection," according to the UnitedStates Bureau of H om e Economics. A dd to that recom mendation the delicate flavor of carefully preparedfresh eggsand you have ample reason to esteem themhighly. T h e y are afoodbargain even at war-time pricelevels,and capable of infinite variety. So use your fullquota.A few simple precautions will enable you to servelight, tender egg dishes at the dinner table to pleaseyourfamilyand friends.First, always keep eggs stored in a cool place or inthe refrigerator, far away from highly scented food.In spite of their protective shell, eggs absorb odorsreadily, and at room tem pera ture soon lose their freshness.When cooking eggs, use moderate, even heat toprevent their becoming leathery. This applies to eggscooked in the shell as well as custards, souffles or om elets.In fact, boiledeg g" is a misleading term , for the

79


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80 C O O K IN G W I T H O U T M E A Twater should be kept at a temperature just under boiling, and the eggs allowed to simmer gen tly if you wantthem to be tender, though firm.To avoid toughnesswrhen baking custards or souffles, set the baking dish in a pan of hot w ater and keepthe oven temperature moderate, about 350 degrees.Egg m ixtures that are prepared over a bu rne r need thesame gentle heat, so cook them in the top of a doubleboiler, unless you are using a heavy-bottomed omeletpan. If possible, this pan should be used for nothingelse,and w iped clean after each using with a dry cloth .Your care infollowing these elementary rules willbe rewarded by the delicacy of each egg dish. Ofcourse, seasoning mustn't be overlooked, but evenherbs and condiments, skillfully applied, on ly partiallycompensatefor eggs of rubbery consistency.

Don't be alarmed if recipes in this chapter seem tocall for a disproportionate amount of precious cannedtomatoes. Since tomatoes and eggs are ready mixers,their frequent combination in cooking is inevitable.This situation will be alleviated wherever possible bythe use of inexpensive tomato paste instead of wholecanned tomatoes, and during the summer fresh tomatoes will make the use of the canned variety unnecessary. For that reason, alternative ingredients are givento make the recipes practical throughout the year. U n fortunately, some sauces must be made from wholetomatoes, whether canned or fresh, to obtain the p roperconsistency. Tomato paste has to be diluted ior theright flavor, and this makes theresultingsauce too thinforuse overeggdishes. However, the two recipes described below can betransformed into spaghetti sauceby substituting one 6-ounce can of tom ato paste dilutedwith three cups of water or vegetable stock for thewhole tomatoes. In fact, most of these sauce recipes


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EGG DISHES 81can be changed and modified for convenience, andmade to serve more than one purpose.

MEXICAN TOMATO SAUCE(Makes about2cups)

Any plain omelet or souffle is a suitable dinner dishwhen served with a flourish. Prepare the eggs according

Cooking Without Meat - War Guides -1943

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