ContentsWest & Central India ...............88Kutch Jeep Safari .............................90

Konkan Road Trip ............................. 94

Watersports in Goa .......................... 98

Paragliding in Kamshet ................. 102

Climbing at Tailbaila ....................... 106

Harishchandragad Trek .................. 110

Trekking to Matheran ...................... 114

Kanha Forest Safari ........................ 118

Bandhavgarh Forest Safari .............122

Bastar Tribal Tours ......................... 126

Mandu History Tour ....................... 130

Adventures in Orchha .....................134

Kaziranga Forest Safari ..................156

Ziro–Pasighat Road Trip .................162

Tawang Road Trip ........................... 166

Offroading to Mon ...........................170

Sunderbans Boat Tour .................... 174

Sandakphu Trek ..............................178

Betla Forest Safari ..........................182

Bouldering Around Bengaluru ......200

Bandipur Forest Safari ...................204

Angling Around Mysore .................208

Surfing in Gokarna ..........................212

Adventures in Dandeli ....................216

Mudumalai Forest Safari ...............220

Adventures in Wayanad ................. 224

Periyar Forest Safari ......................228

Adventures in Havelock ................. 232

Diving in Lakshadweep ..................236

Index ...............................................240Acknowledgements ......................250

50 Great Adventures ........................ 612 Top Experiences ..........................10

north India.................. 18Manali–Leh Road Trip ...................... 20

Markha Valley Trek ........................... 26

Chadar Trek ......................................30

Ascent of Stok Kangri ...................... 34

Rafting in Shivpuri ........................... 38

Bungee in Rishikesh ........................ 42

Skiing in Auli ..................................... 46

Roopkund Trek .................................50

Corbett National Park Safari ................................................. 54

Adventures in Solang .......................60

Spiti Left Bank Trek .......................... 64

Chandra Taal Trek ............................ 68

Delhi–Jaisalmer Road Trip ............... 72

Jaisalmer Camel Safari ................... 76

Ranthambhore Forest Safari ...........80

Bharatpur Birding Tour .................... 84

east India ................... 138Dzongri Goecha La Trek................. 140

Offroading to Gurudongmar Lake.........................146

Brahmaputra Ferry Crossing .........152

south India ................186Coorg Road Trip ............................. 188

Adventures in Hampi ..................... 194

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

1

2

3

3 412 Top ExpEriEncEs

12 top experiences

Manali–Leh Road trip

If you haven't done this, you aren't an adventurer at heart. The long drive from Manali to Leh (p20) – almost 500 km – packs in the best mountain scenery possible. A precariously narrow road across five dizzying mountain passes puts your driving skills (along with patience and determination) to test. Weather can be treacherous, adding drama and challenge to this two-day drive. The end result of the road trip, however, justifies all the hype around it. And that sweet ending comes in the form of the stunning lunar valley of Leh.

skiing in Auli

Gliding down snowy slopes with ski poles in hand is certainly not for the world's most debonair detective only. You can do it too. Auli (p46) offers every possible kind of snowy thrill. But skiing is what draws people to Auli, and it doesn't matter if you have never tried

Jaisalmer Camel safari

Golden sand dunes, a fort, romantic pavilions, haunting music, a thousand folk tales… the picturesque town of Jaisalmer is all this and much more. And nothing quite brings out its 'desert' appeal like a camel safari (p78). It's not just a ride to the dunes on camelback. The experience includes camping in the desert at night. The camel drivers turn both cook and entertainers by night, belting out one folk song after another. The food is rustic, the flavours simple. The day itinerary of a camel safari always includes a long stop for lunch – which is also the hottest part of the day. At resting points, the camels are unsaddled and hobbled; they’ll often have a roll in the sand before limping away to browse on nearby shrubs, while the camel drivers brew tea or prepare food. All these are eminently photo-worthy episodes, so don’t forget to keep the shutter tripping!

your hand at the sport ever before. Paid guidance is easily available. There’s almost 5km-long slopes here for you to blaze on your skis. And you can get back to the moutaintop in one of the ski- or chair-lifts from the bottom of the slope. Apart from skiing and other winter sports, Auli is also known for its fantastic scenery and sweeping mountain views all around. Photographers are bound to have a whale of a time here – snap up as many mountain panoramas as you can, including dramatic perspective of famed summits such as Nanda Devi, Kamet and Mana Parbat.

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

5 6

SIKKIM1 Dzongri–Goecha

La Trek2 Offroading to

Gurudongmar Lake

ASSAM3 Jorhat & Dibrugarh

(Brahmaputra Ferry Crossing)

4 Kaziranga Forest Safari

ARUNACHAL PRADESH5 Ziro–Pasighat Road

Trip (including Tezpur)

6 Tawang Road Trip

NAGALAND7 Offroading to Mon

WEST BENGAL8 Sunderbans Boat

Tour9 Sandakphu Trek

JHARKHANDa Betla Forest Safari

Damodar River

Brahmaputra Rive

r

Ganges River

Bay of Bengal

BIHAR MANIPUR

MIZORAM

SIKKIM

TRIPURA

MEGHALAYA

BHUTAN

NAGALAND

WEST BENGAL

JHARKHANDBANGLADESH

ARUNACHAL PRADESH

ASSAM

ODISHA

CH

I NA

Daltonganj

Hazaribagh

Jalpaiguri

Siliguri

Itanagar

Baharampur

Durgapur

Ingraj BazarSilchar

Asansol

Purulia

Raiganj

Guwahati

Jamshedpur

Ranchi

ShillongImphal

Agartala Aizawl

Darjeeling

KolkataAirport

GuwahatiAirport

Kolkata

Sunderbans

Kohima

Sandakphu Dzongri

Goecha La

GurudongmarLake

Jorhat Kaziranga

Mon

Betla

Pasighat

Tezpur

TawangDibrugarh

a

8

7435

6

11

9

2

5

3

00 300 km0 150 miles

east India

EasT india

overviewGeographically removed from India’s principal adventure circuit, East India is an oyster for those who like to stray off the beaten track. The wondrous region of Northeast India is rife with adventures ranging from the daunting road trip to Tawang to the exploration of exotic and antique tribal villages along the far northern border of Nagaland. Sikkim packs in a heavyweight trek to within shouting distance of Mt Khangchendzonga, while West Bengal adds to the adrenaline pool with boat tours in the Sunderbans. Ever fascinating, ever beautiful, East India is a land waiting to be discovered – come soon.

Getting there & AwayAir: Kolkata’s Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport has daily connections to all other Indian metros as well as major cities. Bagdogra Airport near Siliguri in North Bengal, Guwahati and Dibrugarh airports in Assam, and Ranchi Airport in Jharkhand have daily flights to Kolkata and Delhi. Regional flights and helicopter services connect several smaller towns in Northeast India to Guwahati.

Rail: The Howrah and Sealdah stations in Kolkata, New Jalpaiguri station near Siliguri and Guwahati station are the main railheads in the region.

Road: East India’s road network is patchy, with conditions fluctuating from excellent to poor. Roads are best used to access destinations from the nearest airport or railhead, unless you’re actually embarking on a road trip.

Elephants ferry tourists to the grasslands of Kaziranga

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

7 8dzongri goEcha La TrEk

The mighty Khangchendzonga in the morning light

Why go?A date with the majestic Mt Khangchendzonga (28,200ft) is the main reason for embarking on this trek. Going deep into the mountains of Sikkim, the adventure is also well known for the spectacular wilderness that lies along the way.

GETTING THERE

Road: There are daily flights from Delhi and Kolkata to Bagdogra airport in Siliguri (`4000). Hire a Sumo or Innova (`5000) and make the 8-hour journey to Yuksom in West Sikkim. The trailhead for the trek lies a short walk past Yuksom.

Rail: The 12343 Darjeeling Mail departs Sealdah station in Kolkata at 10.05pm and reaches New Jalpaiguri station in Siliguri at 8am.The 12236 Dibrugarh Rajdhani leaves New Delhi at 9.30am and reaches New Jalpaiguri at 11.45am the next day. From New Jalpaiguri, you will find road connections to Yuksom.

Quick Facts

BEST TIME TO GO

March–May; October –November

DIFFICULTy: ****COSTS: *FAMILy FRIENDLy: *

AMENITIES: *

Dzongri Goecha La trek I SIKKIM

The stuff of tribal legends and folklore, Mt Khangchendzonga is regarded as the guardian deity of Sikkim. Towering over the skyline of Sikkim and visible from almost every major town in the state, it is best viewed from the high-altitude pass of Goecha La (16,300ft), accessible via a gruelling six-day walk from Yuksom (it takes another two days to return to Yuksom from Goecha La). A shorter version of this trek can be completed in as little as four days, going only about midway to the rolling meadows of Dzongri and grabbing great views of the mountain from the nearby viewpoint of Dzongri La. Choose either version of the trek, depending on your willingness to sweat it out in the great wide open.

March to May is an ideal time to do this trek since the weather is warmer and rain clouds move in only around late May, rendering the trek almost impossible for the next four months or so. The clearest skies are in October and November – that’s when the photos come out looking nothing short of gorgeous. Remember, though, that snow starts to block the high trails with the advent of winter, so the trekking window is somewhat shorter than in spring. Leaving Yuksom, the route initially follows the Rathong Valley through unspoilt forests, before steeply ascending to the village of Bakhim and the rustic Tibetan village of Tsokha, established in 1969 by Tibetan refugees. This is the last village on the trail and it helps to spend two nights here

The peaks rule the panorama at Dzongri

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

9 10dzongri goEcha La TrEk

to adjust to the rapid gain in altitude. The next stage climbs to the pleasant pastures around Dzongri (13,200ft). If you are planning to go higher, consider another acclimatisation day here, best spent by strolling up to the viewpoint of Dzongri La (15,000ft), from where you can savour stunning views of Khangchendzonga. The walk takes four hours return. From Dzongri, the trail drops sharply to Kokrochung and follows the river to Thangsing. You don’t technically need to factor in additional resting time here, but trekkers have recommended taking an extra day out to visit the beautiful

lake of Lampokhari, a three-hour walk away. Next day takes you to the campsite at Lamuni, 15 minutes before Samiti Lake, another picturesque high altitude reservoir that looks magnificent at dawn and dusk. From here, an early morning assault the following day takes you to the head-spinning heights of Goecha La for those incredible panoramic views of Khangchendzonga. A further viewpoint, another hour’s walk ahead, offers even closer views – consider the extra haul if you’re feeling up to it.

Top Tip: Beware of leechesWalks in Sikkim are generally a safe activity, with the exception of nasty leeches that infest the undergrowth. The possibility of leech attacks is higher in late summer and early autumn, immediately before and after the monsoons. Stick to wide, dry paths as much as you can, and slap on a generous amount of mosquito repellent such as citronella or Odomos, which does well to keep these pesky bloodsuckers at bay.

Prayer flags across the horizon in

Dzongri

The return from Goecha La to Yuksom is essentially along the same route. Alternatively, however, you could cut south after reaching Dzongri for an extra week in the outdoors, following the spectacular Singalila Ridge along the India-Nepal border to emerge at Uttarey, from where public transport can help you get back to the town of Pelling, which has connections to Siliguri.

THE TERRAINThe initial section of the trek will see you clambering through the forested foothills of Sikkim. It’s warm and humid here, and since precipitation is high in these low mountains, the trail can often be slushy and slippery. As you climb higher,

After reaching Yuksom, you will likely need to spend a day in the village arranging permits and rations for the trek. In the afternoon, do the short hike to the ambient Dubdi Gompa, if only as a warm-up to the real adventure. High on the ridge above Yuksom, this atmospheric monastery (its name meaning ‘hermit’s cell’) is set in beautifully tended gardens behind

three coarsely hewn stupas and is said to be Sikkim’s oldest monastery. Start the 40-minute climb from upper Yuksom’s primary healthcare centre – the path clearly rises through thickets of trumpet lilies and some lovely mature alpine forest.

If You Like: Gompas

Dubdi Gompa seems straight out the pages of an artist's sketchbook

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.