CONTENTS · 2019-02-05 · Honeycomb (waffl e weave) 118 Mock leno 124 Creating patterns with mock...

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INTRODUCTION 6 CHAPTER 1: PREPARATION FOR DESIGN 8 The loom 11 Warp information 14 The warping plan 16 Spreading the warp onto the beam 17 The threading plan 18 The reed plan 19 The lifting plan 24 The weft plan 24 Finishing details 27 Inspiration and visual research 29 CHAPTER 2: PLAIN WEAVE 34 Plain weave on two, three and four shafts 37 Potential faults in plain weave 38 Plain-weave variations 39 CHAPTER 3: TWILL WEAVES 44 Twills over three shafts 46 Twills using a straight draft over four shafts 50 Twills using a point draft on four shafts 54 Distorted twills 56 Combining twills 70 Satin and sateen weaves 72 CHAPTER 4: COLOUR AND WEAVE 80 Visualizing the weave structure with colour 82 Project 1: End and end warp stripe 84 Project 2: 2 × 2 warp stripe 87 CHAPTER 5: WARP AND WEFT DISTORTIONS 90 Grouped weft distortions 92 Grouped warp distortions 106 Single-end distortions 107 Creating a diagonal line across the weave 112 CHAPTER 6: TEXTURED WEAVES 116 Honeycomb (waffle weave) 118 Mock leno 124 Creating patterns with mock leno 130 Seersucker 132 Crêpe weaves 136 Corded cloths 140 CHAPTER 7: EXTRA WARP AND WEFT PATTERNING 154 Extra-warp patterning 157 Extra-weft patterning 172 Extra warp and extra weft combined 179 CHAPTER 8: DOUBLE CLOTH 182 Double plain interchange – warp yarns of equal thickness 186 Double plain interchange – warp yarns of different thickness 188 Interchanging plain-weave blocks 189 Double cloth with single-cloth weaves 192 Creating patterns using double cloth 193 Block point draft 199 Pleats 202 Pockets 215 Ribbons 216 TROUBLESHOOTING 218 GLOSSARY 219 FURTHER READING 221 INDEX 222 CREDITS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 224 CONTENTS

Transcript of CONTENTS · 2019-02-05 · Honeycomb (waffl e weave) 118 Mock leno 124 Creating patterns with mock...

Page 1: CONTENTS · 2019-02-05 · Honeycomb (waffl e weave) 118 Mock leno 124 Creating patterns with mock leno 130 Seersucker 132 Crêpe weaves 136 Corded cloths 140 CHAPTER 7: EXTRA WARP

INTRODUCTION 6

CHAPTER 1:PREPARATION FOR DESIGN 8The loom 11 Warp information 14The warping plan 16Spreading the warp onto the beam 17 The threading plan 18 The reed plan 19The lifting plan 24The weft plan 24Finishing details 27Inspiration and visual research 29

CHAPTER 2: PLAIN WEAVE 34Plain weave on two, three and four shafts 37Potential faults in plain weave 38Plain-weave variations 39

CHAPTER 3: TWILL WEAVES 44Twills over three shafts 46Twills using a straight draft over four shafts 50Twills using a point draft on four shafts 54 Distorted twills 56Combining twills 70Satin and sateen weaves 72

CHAPTER 4: COLOUR AND WEAVE 80 Visualizing the weave structure with colour 82Project 1: End and end warp stripe 84Project 2: 2 × 2 warp stripe 87

CHAPTER 5:WARP AND WEFT DISTORTIONS 90Grouped weft distortions 92 Grouped warp distortions 106

Single-end distortions 107Creating a diagonal line across the weave 112

CHAPTER 6: TEXTURED WEAVES 116Honeycomb (waffl e weave) 118Mock leno 124Creating patterns with mock leno 130Seersucker 132Crêpe weaves 136 Corded cloths 140

CHAPTER 7: EXTRA WARP AND WEFT PATTERNING 154Extra-warp patterning 157Extra-weft patterning 172Extra warp and extra weft combined 179 CHAPTER 8: DOUBLE CLOTH 182 Double plain interchange – warp yarns of

equal thickness 186Double plain interchange – warp yarns of

different thickness 188 Interchanging plain-weave blocks 189Double cloth with single-cloth weaves 192Creating patterns using double cloth 193Block point draft 199Pleats 202Pockets 215Ribbons 216

TROUBLESHOOTING 218GLOSSARY 219FURTHER READING 221INDEX 222CREDITS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 224

CONTENTS