Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City...

50
Consumption Consumption : Fashion Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Jack YUE Division of Social Studies Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong City University of Hong Kong

Transcript of Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City...

Page 1: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

ConsumptionConsumption : FashionFashion

and and

BeautyBeauty

Jack YUEJack YUEDivision of Social StudiesDivision of Social Studies

City University of Hong KongCity University of Hong Kong

Page 2: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 3: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

The ThemeThe Theme

Some (mis-)conceptions What is consumption(-ism) History of consumption Context and system: shopping Fashion/Beauty: the trend Fashion/Beauty: the meanings Appreciation & Critique

Page 4: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Some (Mis-)ConceptionsSome (Mis-)Conceptions

All about moneyMeaningless hedonistsSubsidiary & residualNot-for-the-youthDecadence (materialism)Superficiality

(fetishism of commodities)

Page 5: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 6: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

“ConsumptionConsumption”In 1928, André Siegfried, a Frenchman who had visited the United States four times since the beginning of the century, commented that a "new society" had come into being, in which Americans considered their "standard of living" a "sacred acquisition, which they will defend at any price." In the Atlantic Monthly, the journalist Samuel Straus called this new society "consumptionism" and identified advertising and motion pictures as its distinctive forms of communication. In Muncie, the Lynds found that new leisure activities and a new emphasis on consumption had supplanted politics as the focus of public concern. Elections were no longer "lively centers" of public attention as in the nineteenth century and voter turnout had fallen dramatically. National statistics bore out their point; the turnout of eligible voters, over 80 percent in 1896, had dropped to less than half of those registered by 1924. There were many reasons for this decline, including the consolidation of one-party politics in the South, the enfranchisement of women (who for many years voted in lower numbers than men), and the long period of Republican dominance in national elections. But the consumerist shift from public to private concerns undoubtedly played a part. "The American citizen's first importance to his country," declared a Muncie newspaper, "is no longer that of a citizen but that of a consumer."-- James Foner in The Story of American Freedom, © 1998, pg. 151.

Page 7: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Consumer sales depend on the habits and behaviors of consumers, and those who manipulate consumer markets cannot but address behavior and attitude. That is presumably the object of the multibillion-dollar global advertising industry. Tea drinkers are improbable prospects for Coke sales. Long-lunch traditions obstruct the development of fast-food franchises and successful fast-food franchises inevitably undermine Mediterranean home-at-noon-for-dinner rituals—whether intentionally or not hardly matters. Highly developed public transportation systems lessen the opportunity for automobile sales and depress steel, rubber, and petroleum production. Agricultural lifestyles (rise at daylight, work all day, to bed at dusk) are inhospitable to television watching. People uninterested in sports buy fewer athletic shoes. Health campaigns hurt tobacco sales. The moral logic of austerity contradicts the economic logic of consumption. Can responsible corporate managers then afford to be anything other than immoral advocates of sybaritism? -Benjamin R. Barber, Jihad vs. McWorld, 1995

Page 8: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Marxist cynicismMarxist cynicism Advertising tries to stimulate our sensuous desires, converting luxuries into necessities

But prosperity without a soul is like a corpse whose heart has stopped beating. There is no life, only consumption.

http://www.stthomas.edu/recycle/CONSUME.HTM

(but … why don’t we do more saving?)

Page 9: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 10: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

History of ConsumptionHistory of Consumption

goods consumed for their exchange values

(rituals and social relationship)

goods consumed for their use values (economics, production and capitalism)

goods consumed for their sign values (culture, identity and postmodernity)

from production to consumption

Page 11: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

YuppiesYuppies

Yuppie was an acronym for 'Young Upwardly Mobile Professional Person'. The word was coined by the advertising industry to capture the essence of a particular type of work hard, play hard, ambitious minded city career person of either sex.

The hectic lifestyle of a yuppie meant that after long hours of work, rare free time was spent in a self indulgent way frittering away the cash earned on anything, fr

om expensive make up and perfume, to a bottle of fine champagne.

Conspicuous wastage was part of the attitude.

For day Yuppies sported wide shouldered jackets and for weekends they wore a

Barbour to effect a country aesthetic or a ballgown to assume the appearance of

a more advantaged lifestyle.

Page 12: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Designer labels and brandingDesigner labels and branding

gained impetus.Brand names became status symbols for sports gear and sportswear, perfumes, electrical equipment, cars and fashion designer goods such as clothing, bags, luggage, scarves and spectacles. The appearance of affluence was reinforced by access to designer label goods.

Page 13: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Context and Context and SystemSystem

The experience of“shopping” and “shoppers”

:Self-construction

through display and acquisitionimplemented in a variety of

relations(with people, material goods and

representations)

Page 14: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Shopping malls(e.g. Festival walk, Trendy Zone, etc.)

Department stores(e.g. Seibu, Sogo, LaneCrawford, etc.)

Shops(e.g. Joyce, D-mop, Agnes’b, etc.)

Supermarkets(CitySuper, Park’N, etc.)

but … what could be other alternatives?Is HK still a “shopping paradise”?

Page 15: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 16: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 17: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

FashionFashion

Page 18: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

For centuries individuals or societies have used clothes and other body adornment as a form of nonverbal communication to indicate occupation, rank, gender, sexual

availability, locality, class, wealth and group affiliation.

Fashion is a form of free speech. It not only embraces clothing, but also accessories, jewellery, hairstyles, beauty and body art. What we wear and how and when we wear it, provides others with a shortha

nd to subtly read the surface of a social situation

Page 19: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

It is true of dress, in even a higher degree than most of items of consumption, that people will undergo a very considerable degree of privation in the comforts of or necessities of life in order to afford what is considered a decent amount of was

teful consumption.(Thorstein Veblen)

And the eyes of Adam and Eve were opened, and they knew that they were

naked; and they sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves aprons.

(Genesis)

Fashion --- including haute couture, all forms of anti-fashion and nonfashion --- produce a visual culture --- a visual manifestations of an entire system of value --- in which individuals become more self-conscious of their own appearance and that of

others.(Joanne Finkelstein)

Page 20: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Haute Couture(made to measure)

vs

Prêt-à-Porter (ready to wear)

Page 21: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 22: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Pre-WWII --- e.g. Chanel (Americans’ mass production; French as leader in wealthy fa

shion)1950s --- e.g. Dior, Balenciaga

(suburban life style and accent on family life)1960s --- e.g. Mary Quant, Pierre Cardin

(London as leader in youthful fashion)1970s --- e.g. YSL, Ralph Lauren, LV

(towards anti-fashion, ethnic look, physical fitness)1980s --- e.g. Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, NIKE, Kenzo

(Jap/Italy’s role and towards global business and deconstruction)1990s --- e.g. Lagerfeld, DKNY, Fendi, Prada, Helmut Lang

(age of discount, off-price, outlets; trying grunge/relaxing/etc.)2000s --- look at your own self !!!

Trend of FashionTrend of Fashion

Page 23: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Fashion … made in HKFashion … made in HK

Page 24: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

BeautyBeauty

Page 25: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Makeup(skin, face, hair, fragrance, etc.)

Accessories(diamond, rings, watch, pen, etc.)

Body fitness(spa, sports, muscle, etc.)

Lifestyle

(bath, nutrition, stress management, etc.)

Beauty Beauty == Aesthetics Aesthetics = = Color Color

Page 27: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

裝扮 美容 豐胸 纖體 健身 排毒 養顏 靜心

Page 28: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

From femininity to masculine

From accessories to professionalism

From cosmetics to fitness-cum-wellness

From glamour to natural lifestyle

Page 29: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

For men and/or

women

[男]為悅己者容

Page 30: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Makeupartists

Image/hairstylists

Biochemengineers

Doctors/nutritionists/

trainers

Page 31: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 32: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Health & WellnessHealth & Wellnesstowards

inner beauty

through physical activities

e.g. aerobic, gym fitness, sauna, spa, golf, etc.

… 愛纖體、亦愛身體 …

Page 33: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 34: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Back to the natureBack to the nature

Integratinghuman beings’ culture

with the nature

Page 35: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 36: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 37: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

MeaningsMeaningsofof

Fashion/BeautyFashion/Beauty

Page 38: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

[ Sex ][ Sex ]

“It is the the shame of lacking a penis which has drawn women to the use of fabrics, clothing and fashion, originally to conceal this lack, and afterwards as substitutes for it. The fashionable woman, then, approximates the dignity

of any normal man by being attired in the best, most envied and respected suit of clothes.”

(Joanne Finkelstein)

“While women are turning in vast numbers tomasculine clothing styles,

men are re-appropriating their rightto a certain level of fantasy in dress”

(G. Lipovetsky)

Page 39: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 40: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 41: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 42: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

[ Body ][ Body ]“The individual and

personal act of getting dressed is an act of

preparing the body for the social world, making it

appropriate, acceptable, indeed respectable to

othersone may encounter in a

social setting.”(London’s Hayward Gallery)

“Styles of dress and body adornment attempt to

produce a different body, i.e. to reshape it into an

aesthetic and social ideal. Fashion has an effect on

subjectivity. The increased use of uniforms (for various

specific occasions) constitutes a regime of

discipline.”(Michel Foucault)

Page 43: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

[ Identity[ Identityandand

Status ]Status ]

Page 44: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

[ Autonomy ][ Autonomy ]

“Aren’t we madto let them

move us about,push us around,

wrap us up,reproduce us so

we are all the sameor nearly so …

I wonder if it is you or Iwho dictate fashion.”

(Sonia Rykiel)

Page 45: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

[ Aesthetics ][ Aesthetics ]“There would on doubt be something slightly paradoxical in

opening a fashion museumif fashion were just a seasonal trend …

a fashion museum isthe history of practices and looks”

(Jack Lang, French Minister of Culture)

While fashion had invented ‘the woman’ forover a hundred years, a ‘fashion after fashion’ began

to deconstruct that self-same woman;while fashion initially hid its art, it now begins

to also display its bag of tricks.”(Barbara Vinken)

Page 46: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 47: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 48: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.
Page 49: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Consumptionis more than ever befor

ean experience which is

to belocated in the head,

a matter ofthe brain and mind,rather than seen as

the process of simply satisfying biological bod

ily needs(Robert Bocock)

Page 50: Consumption Consumption : Fashion and and Beauty Beauty Jack YUE Division of Social Studies City University of Hong Kong.

Towards a concept of Towards a concept of lifelife

food career colors creativity

creativity identity