Construction%20Guide%202011%2010.1[1].pdf

Construction Manual

Marc Veillet

Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com

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WYOMING LOG HOME MANUFACTURING

COMPANY

LOG HOME CONSTUCTION GUIDE

1st EDITION

2011

Created and assembled by

Marc D. Veillet

Special Thanks to

Bob Szewc

These are his ideas

All pictures taken by Marc D. Veillet

All artwork and drawings done by Marc D. Veillet

All pictures, images, are property of

Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company

and may not be reproduced in any form without written permission.


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TABLE OF CONTENTS

LIST OF FIGURES ..................................................................................................................... vi PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................................................ viii INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................................... 1

ABOUT US ..................................................................................................................................... 1

The history ............................................................................................................................................ 1

The Staff ................................................................................................................................................ 2

The Region ............................................................................................................................................ 2

The Outstanding Quality ....................................................................................................................... 2

The Lifestyle .......................................................................................................................................... 2

Why Build a Log Home? ........................................................................................................................ 3

About Our Logs ..................................................................................................................................... 4

About Our Milling Process .................................................................................................................... 6

PLANNING ................................................................................................................................... 9 BUDGET ........................................................................................................................................ 9

DESIGN ....................................................................................................................................... 10

Floor Plan ............................................................................................................................................ 10

Curb Appeal ......................................................................................................................................... 11

Layout Book ........................................................................................................................................ 11

PERMITS ..................................................................................................................................... 12

ACCESS ........................................................................................................................................ 12

FEES ............................................................................................................................................ 12

SITE PREPARATION ...................................................................................................................... 12

Geology ............................................................................................................................................... 13

Property line........................................................................................................................................ 13

Well ..................................................................................................................................................... 13

Septic ................................................................................................................................................... 13

Foundation .......................................................................................................................................... 14

PRE LOG HOME CONSTRUCTION PLANNING ................................................................................. 14

Log Lengths ......................................................................................................................................... 14

Internal and External Post and Beam ................................................................................................. 15


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Doors and Windows ............................................................................................................................ 16

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) ............................................................................. 16

Plumbing ............................................................................................................................................. 16

Electrical .............................................................................................................................................. 16

CONTRACTOR .............................................................................................................................. 17

GREEN SOLUTIONS (Optional) ...................................................................................................... 17

CONSTRUCTION ...................................................................................................................... 18 FOOTINGS ................................................................................................................................... 18

Preliminary Footer Specifications ....................................................................................................... 19

Site Preparation .................................................................................................................................. 19

Excavation ........................................................................................................................................... 21

Drainage .............................................................................................................................................. 22

Form Layout ........................................................................................................................................ 23

Construction ........................................................................................................................................ 29

FOUNDATION .............................................................................................................................. 37

Foundation types ................................................................................................................................ 37

ARXX Wall System ............................................................................................................................... 38

Vapor Barrier ....................................................................................................................................... 39

Anchor Bolts ........................................................................................................................................ 39

Knockouts ............................................................................................................................................ 40

Joist Pockets ........................................................................................................................................ 40

Concrete pour ..................................................................................................................................... 41

Backfill ................................................................................................................................................. 42

THE HOUSE ................................................................................................................................. 43

Layout .................................................................................................................................................. 44

Cut Sheets ........................................................................................................................................... 44

Sub-Floor ............................................................................................................................................. 45

Placing the Logs on the Site ................................................................................................................ 49

Cutting the Logs to length ................................................................................................................... 50

Stacking Issues, Where You Can Get Out of Level .............................................................................. 50

Log Walls, the First Course .................................................................................................................. 51

Log Walls, the Second Course ............................................................................................................. 52


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Log Walls, The rest .............................................................................................................................. 54

Window Bucks and Window Opening ................................................................................................. 58

Door Posts and Door Opening ............................................................................................................ 58

Posts .................................................................................................................................................... 60

Beams .................................................................................................................................................. 60

Floor joists ........................................................................................................................................... 60

Tongue and groove, flooring ............................................................................................................... 61

Top Wall Logs ...................................................................................................................................... 63

Gable Ends .......................................................................................................................................... 63

Roof Purlins ......................................................................................................................................... 64

Overhangs ........................................................................................................................................... 65

Tongue and Groove, Ceiling/Roof ....................................................................................................... 65

Trusses ................................................................................................................................................ 66

PORCHES ..................................................................................................................................... 67

Porch Post Pilings ................................................................................................................................ 67

Porch Posts .......................................................................................................................................... 68

Porch Beams ....................................................................................................................................... 70

Porch Rafters ....................................................................................................................................... 70

Tongue and Groove ............................................................................................................................. 70

Porch Roof ........................................................................................................................................... 71

Porch Floor .......................................................................................................................................... 72

HOUSE ROOF SYSTEM .................................................................................................................. 73

REINFORCEMENT ........................................................................................................................ 74

FINISHING ................................................................................................................................. 75 INTERIOR .................................................................................................................................... 75

Windows ............................................................................................................................................. 76

Doors ................................................................................................................................................... 76

Sanding ................................................................................................................................................ 76

Interior Log Wall Coating .................................................................................................................... 77

Stud walls ............................................................................................................................................ 77

Electrical wiring ................................................................................................................................... 77

HVAC ................................................................................................................................................... 77


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Drywall ................................................................................................................................................ 78

Paint .................................................................................................................................................... 78

Interior Chinking ................................................................................................................................. 78

Flooring/Carpeting .............................................................................................................................. 78

Trim and Base Boards ......................................................................................................................... 78

Fireplace .............................................................................................................................................. 78

Appliances ........................................................................................................................................... 79

Cupboards ........................................................................................................................................... 79

EXTERIOR .................................................................................................................................... 79

Coatings ............................................................................................................................................... 79

Chinking ............................................................................................................................................... 79

Hydrants .............................................................................................................................................. 80

Exterior Electric ................................................................................................................................... 80

UPKEEP ...................................................................................................................................... 81 COATING ..................................................................................................................................... 81

PORCH FLOORS ........................................................................................................................... 82

CHINK ......................................................................................................................................... 82

APPENDICIES ............................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. R-values and how they relate to log walls. ...................................................................................... I

Thermal Mass................................................................................................................................ II

U-Value ........................................................................................................................................ III

Log Wall ................................................................................................................................................ III

Windows and U-Factor ........................................................................................................................ III

MATERIALS ................................................................................................................................... V

CHECKLISTS ................................................................................................................................. VII

TABLES ....................................................................................................................................... XVI

ARXX Block Information .................................................................................................................... XVI

Log Course Height ............................................................................................................................ XVII

GLOSSARY .................................................................................................................................. A

ACKNOWLEGMENTS ............................................................................................................... F REFERENCES ............................................................................................................................. G


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LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1. Measuring out the stakes.

Figure 2. Cross section of the footing with respect to the soils, foundation, and drain tile.

Figure 3. The footing forms being laid out

Figure 1. Measuring the diagonals

Figure 5. Setting up the interior form boards

Figure 6. Make sure that the form boards are level with each other.

Figure 7. The rebar placement in the footers also showing the form boards

Figure 8. Form boards in place with the horizontal rebar being held in place with rebar stakes.

Strapping is used to hold the vertical members in place and to also prevent the forms from

spreading.

Figure 9. Vertical rebar members placed through the strapping. Notice the protective caps on

the rebar and also the Ufer ground wire.

Figure 10. The Ufer copper ground wire is attached to the horizontal rebar inside of the forms.

Figure 11. A pump truck makes it quick and easy to pour the concrete into the footer forms and

later for the concrete in the foundation.

Figure 12. Leveling off the concrete to the form boards with a 2x4 screet.

Figure 13. If you are kind to your pump truck driver he will help you trowel your footers.

Notice the remote for the boom for the pump truck around his waist.

Figure 14. The ARXX system foundation walls in relation to the bottom course, the sub floor

and the footing. Also of importance are the depictions of the anchor bolts that tie in the first

course to the foundation wall. This shows just how structurally sound the wall is from the footer

to the logs.

Figure 15. Wall anchor bolt assembly.

Figure 16. Cross section of a typical wall using the ARXX system. There are several different

concrete form systems.

Figure 17. Showing a typical cut sheet with distances to wall and window openings.

Figure 18. The Floor Joists and the Sub floor.

Figure 19. A 900 pound hoist. This crane will allow a single person to lift and maneuver the

logs for the home walls.

Figure 20. The first course of logs attached to the sub floor.


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Figure 21. The wall anchor bolt assembly placement and installation.

Figure 22. Cross section of the electrical wiring in the second course. Also shown is the drilling

through the first course and the sub floor for a chase.

Figure 23. Drill pattern and Log Hawgs for the fastening of one course to another.

Figure 24. Top view of the electrical going into a door post for switches.

Figure 25. Floor joists, posts, and purlins on the second level of a log home.

Figure 26. Tongue and groove fastened to a floor joist. Each piece of tongue and groove tightly

interconnects with the next to provide a squeak free highly stable and beautiful floor.

Figure 27. Roof purlins that have been string lined and braced to be well within tolerances.

Figure 28. Two king trusses with 3/8" reinforced plating below a tongue and groove ceiling.

Figure 29. Porch post footing with sona tube and anchor bolt.

Figure 30. Porch post being anchored to the footing.

Figure 31. Porch rafters with tongue and groove.

Figure 32. A typical dark stained wall showing a light colored elastic chink.


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PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This manual has taken a considerable amount of time to amass. It has been over a year since I

have started gathering the information. Most of the information is our own findings, but several

studies into R-Factor and Thermal mass have been referenced. Not only did I have to cover all

the basics of making a log home. But I had to relearn what I knew about log homes

It has been our intent from the start to show people to the advantages of log construction over

and all other forms of home construction. The point of this manual is to present any individual

group of people directions to construct a beautiful and sound log home.

The construction techniques involved are not the only ones available, and may not be the best

out there in this world of 5 billion people, however, they are tried and true over the past thirty

years. They are efficient, relatively simple, and cost effective.

Every picture is from the hundreds of houses that we have designed, constructed or

manufactured. All the drawings were created on a PC using AchiCAD, a very powerful

architectural design program.


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I would like to thank Rich McLain, PhD, parents Dan and Linda Veillet, Angel Ricker, Gay

Hale, Michelle Nielsen, John Mark Roufs, JD, Chris Godsey, and most of all Bob Szewc.

Bob Szewc is an amazing man who throws himself wholeheartedly into his trade. All the

planning and construction are reflected in this love of log homes. He is a master craftsman, a

hunter, a fisherman, a teacher and most of all, a friend.

This is not just our story, but everyone’s who wishes to construct a log home.


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Note to the reader;

Some of this construction guide may sound complicating or confusing. In all reality it is really

simple and basic construction. If at any point during the construction you have questions about

our procedures please contact us. There is no such thing as a dumb question!


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INTRODUCTION

ABOUT US

The history

Wyoming Log Homes (WLH) founder Bob Szewc has worked in the log home industry since

1972. With the help of his daughter Michelle (Szewc) Nielsen, Wyoming Log Homes

Manufacturing Company expanded in 2005.

The company started in Story Wyoming, and then moved to Sheridan, then finally out to its new

mill in Ranchester, Wyoming. With a 10,000 square foot mill and 10 acre log yard, Wyoming

Log Homes Mfg Co has enough space and capability to handle thousands of linear feet of logs a

week.


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The Staff

Wyoming Log Homes has the staff to fulfill all your needs. A project manager can handle all of

the general and subcontracting as well as pricing of all the projects. A full time architectural

designer using the latest and best CAD software will make you designs a reality. A qualified and

experienced sawyer is on hand to make custom dimensions as well as regular milling. A full

time secretary takes care of all the billing and clerical needs. The mill is staffed with hard

working and knowledgeable technicians.

The Region

We are located in the heart of the old west, an area rich in history, hunting, fishing, methane, and

coal.

The Outstanding Quality

In addition to over forty years of log home building and manufacturing experience, WLH has a

full-time design draftsman ready to assist in customizing any project. WLH is always refining its

collection of popular designs, incorporating new and innovative ways to meet the customer’s

needs. Standard features such as porches, overhangs and extended eaves that help reduce home

maintenance are all examples of the thought and detail that go into a WLH-designed house.

All logs are milled and hand drawn at the WLH mill in Ranchester, Wyoming, allowing Bob

direct oversight to ensure the quality of each WLH log home. Wyoming Log Homes are simply

the best log homes on the market today.

The Lifestyle

The log home epitomizes the outdoor style of living. Outdoor activities, mountains and forests

are often associated with the log home. Log homes are thought of first when one thinks of

western living. The log home was important in this country’s westward expansion. Log homes

have come a long way but are essentially the same basic structure. With the development of

stains, coatings, and elastic chinks, the longevity and beauty are increased greatly.


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Why Build a Log Home?

A log home is cost effective, energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and structurally sound

home. And not to mention, it is beautiful, a timeless creation that with proper maintenance, last

more than a century.

The cost of a stick frame, sided and insulated, exterior wall is approximately the same cost as an

8x8 log wall. When you consider labor, the 8”x8” log wall has the advantage. It takes far less

time and materials to assemble a log wall. It is also less complex. Once you put up the logs,

you’re almost done. All that is left is some sanding, staining and coating, and lastly chinking.

Calculating the R-value and thermal mass of a log wall is a difficult process. With all the

different log types used and all of the variances inherent in a lot of logs, it is understandable as to

why. However there are studies that have been done in controlled environments. The results

also are dependent upon what kind of a wall system that you are using. Examples such as

Swedish Cope, hand peeled, and square. The walls with the greatest effects are the square log

walls. The square logs have the greatest surface-to-surface contact than any other system. This

is what maximizes the insulative and thermal banking properties of the data.

A conventional stick framed wall, insulated and sided is marginally more efficient than an 8x8

log wall. When the log wall uses a thickness up to around 10”x10” and larger, an interesting

effect is observed. Thermal mass is “banked” in the log. This causes the log to actually store

heat or cold. The walls to store the heat during the winter months and radiate it back into the

house. During summer months, this gradient takes longer for the heat from the exterior to reach

the interior. However if the interior is cool, it will maintain its cool temperature. A great

example of this is a 14 x 14 log wall house will not need to be air conditioned in +100 degree-

days in the summer and maintain a comfortable temperature inside. [2]

Interior temperature data in a real world scenario is skewed by large amounts of glass and

ineffective overhangs. It must be stated, to effectively control the interior temperature, ample


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overhangs may be implemented to keep the home cool during the summer and a mindful use of

glass to keep it warm in the winter.

More Data can be ready in “The Energy Performance of Log Homes” prepared Technical

Committee of the Log Homes Council, Building Systems Councils, National Association of

Home Builders, 2003 [4]

A log home is a very solid and secure structure. Each log is tied to the log below it and the log

above it. The bottom log is bolted into the foundation. The corners are tied into each other for

maximum stability. All beams, floor girders, joists and purlins are fastened into each other. It is

rigid yet flexible. An interesting point to make is that a log beam will last longer than a metal

beam during a fire.

About Our Logs

Each WLH log has milled square sides with hand-peeled corners. Logs are milled from standing

dead dry or fire killed dry timber, typically Lodge Pole Pine, Spruce, or Ponderosa Pine. These

wood varieties produce high-grade logs with exceptional strength and visual appeal. Our goal is

to maximize the unique character of each log to enhance your investment.

Spruce and Lodge Pole Pine are our primary woods. Ponderosa Pine and Douglas fir are also

available. We use these trees because they are even and straight grained, low moisture content,

few knots, low log twist and are structurally sound. We use Douglas fir when needed for long

spans and also for decking. These trees are not harvested green. They are Pine Beetle kill,

standing dead, or fire kill. This insect intrusion is what gives the logs their blue hue. The blue

hue is made by the tree’s response to the beetles. Essentially, the trees used are culled from

forests to prevent forest fires and to maintain animal habitat.

Our main supply of logs comes out of British Columbia, directly north of us in Canada. We also

use local lumber and we select these logs using the same high standards as we do with all our

logs. It is said that a house is only as good as its foundation. It can also be said that a log home

is only as good as its logs


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Prior to establishing WLH, Bob worked with standard log products - typically milled round logs

with Swedish Cope insets. Over the years, he noticed a variety of problems inherent in Swedish

cope construction. Bob began experimenting with different log shapes, and in 1996 he founded

Wyoming Log Homes, using the WLH “square log system”. “I just got tired of trying to fix all of

the problems inherit with Swedish cope log,” Bob says. WLH now uses the square log system

exclusively.

WLH square logs eliminate the settling problem by increasing the amount of contact between log

courses to 7-8 inches across the log on log surface- nearly double the contact typical in Swedish

Cope construction. Square logs provide the maximum insulative properties available in log

home construction. WLH logs are milled to fit flush along their length, increasing overall

thermal mass and requiring very little additional sealing or gap insulation. Square logs result in

superior interior fit and finish, as well. With no rounded sides to work with, interior cabinetry

and decorations install easily and without awkward transitions.

Settling is a common problem experienced with the more common “Swedish Cope” log shape.

The standard in the industry for years, Swedish Cope construction has proven to result in

consistent settling of 1 ½ inches on an 8-foot, milled-log wall, and as much as 6 inches in an 8-

foot, hand-peeled log wall. Settling can result in a myriad of problems for the builder or

homeowner, including buckled door jams, crushed windows, damaged electrical wiring,

collapsed roofs, and structural shifting.

Round logs make contact at narrow points that require supplemental insulation such .As

caulking, foam strips, and additional chinking to prevent heat loss. A square log allows the

builder four sides to choose from when constructing your home. The log side with the most

character can be placed where it will have the most visual impact. Less attractive features can be

placed out of sight. WLH logs stack evenly, showing off all the grain and color you expect in a

log home, with no two logs looking the same.


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About Our Milling Process

Our logs go through a twelve-part process from the time they are delivered our yard and to when

they exit. The logs are sorted, milled, draw knifed, plained, cut to length, drilled for bolts, routed

for electric, routed at the ends, tagged, stacked into bunks, wrapped in plastic, and finally loaded

onto a truck. All these steps ensure that each log is accounted for and is moved through the mill

as efficiently as possible. This allows us to mill more products in less time keeping log costs per

linear foot down and allows us to deliver a log package in an efficient manner.

When the logs arrive in our yard, they are sorted according to diameter, length, and quality. All

logs are sorted facing the same way, meaning that all the tree bases are on the same side. This

ensures that when the log is place upon the saw, the base will be toward the left, toward the saw.

The saw always starts cutting at the base. When the logs are processed through the mill, the base

of the tree will be on the right. All bunks are done this way with the logs facing in the same

direction. This gives symmetry to the house when the logs are stacked. All knots and grain are

facing in the same direction.

When the log is placed upon the saw, it is cut on all four sides. When material is removed, a log

may slightly expand and warp. To eliminate this potential issue, wood is removed in smaller

increments from each side till it is the desired diameter. Essentially if you make just four cuts on

a round log, you may have some twisting problems as the log “relaxes” from the release of the

pressure. This is why you make several passes with the saw to get your desired log width, cut

some then measure, then cut some more.

Not just any log is brought to the saw. Every log is sorted from longest to shortest and numbered

on the cut sheet list. Depending on the size of the log, ten to sixteen tags are removed from the

list and sorted according to wall side and length. This assures that when the logs are put into the

bunk and labeled on the bunk sheet, that the logs will be stacked according to length and

facilitate easier loading on a trailer.


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The edges of the milled logs are draw knifed to remove the wane. This is done by hand with

custom made draw knifes. Beams are draw knifed differently than wall logs. Just a small

amount is peeled off the corners to maximize the surface area for structural integrity. A typical

Wall log will have around 1-½ inches of the edge removed by hand.

Inside and outside sides are plained twice. It is determined then which side to face the interior

and which side does not. Generally the sides with character are faced to the sides for viewing.

The sides that are shown can be rounded and do not need the flat on flat that the top and bottom

needs. The sides that are shown are the sides to be planed. This plaining will remove 1/16 or

1/8 of an inch from the sides of the log. This will not affect the stacking height. If the log were

to be planed on the top and bottom, this would lead to errors in the overall height of the wall. So

it is important to choose the best side to plane, for this side will bee seen and later sanded and

stained. The first pass of the planer is from right to left and the second from left to right. The

planer is kept clean of sap and lubricated with beeswax. This makes it easier to plane by

reducing the friction between the planer and the log. The logs only need to be planed on the

sides that are visible. On posts, joists, and beams, all four sides would be planed. On wall logs

that have pass ends, all four sides of the “tail” will be planed. Since the tails are 4 inches, the

plaining of the tails would be kept to a minimum.

The logs are cut to predetermined lengths after they are plained. The logs are flat against the

back of the rollers to ensure that the cut is plumb. First the right hand side of the log is cut. A

predetermined measurement is then taken from the right end of the log to the left end of the log.

A mark is made as close to the backside of the log as possible. The log is then rolled through the

saw and cut on the left side of this mark. Marking it towards the back makes it easier to judge

the cut.

The logs are then marked for where the holes are drilled for bolts. Each log size has its own drill

pattern. Butt ends and pass ends also have different drill patterns. These varying patterns ensure

that no bolts are put in atop each other and also to maximize the wall stability. The first number

of the drill pattern is how far from the left side of the log is the first hole. The second number is

how many inches from the left end of the log are the rest of the holes and how far they are from


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each other. The third number is the distance of the drill hole on the right side of the log

measured from the right side.

Logs are routed along each end to “clean up” the appearance of “butt joints” or “tail ends” Logs

are then routed for electrical and rafters if needed.

After the logs are routed around the edges on the ends, a tag is applied with staples. It is this tag

that gives the spatial location of the log on a plan called a cut sheet. Tags are printed on Rolodex

paper with a laser printer to ensure maximum readability and protection from the elements.

Logs are stacked into bunks. Bunk sizes are determined by log sizes and also log lengths.

Before the bunks are wrapped in plastic, a sheet is made recording the positioning of the logs in

the bunk. These sheets are put together to identify where the logs are located when it comes to

stacking the logs. The bunks are wrapped in plastic. The plastic is stapled to the logs. When the

bunks are covered in plastic, they are banded. What limits the bunk size, other than weight, is its

ability to sit on a truck bed in tandem with another bunk.

When the logs are loaded onto a truck, they must be stacked even and as close together as

possible. A truck can handle 40,000 to 60,000 pounds and be stacked thirteen feet six inches

high. Stickers are used under each of the bunks so that a forklift can easily remove them. A lot

of the planning that goes into the preparation of the bunks, such as order and stacking become

relevant when the bunks are loaded upon a truck.


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PLANNING

We feel that there are eight major steps in the process of planning for the construction of a

log house. These steps are budget, design, permits, access, fees, site preparation, log

planning, and contracting. Included, as an optional step is the “Green Solution”. Following

these eight steps will eliminate the guesswork in preparing your new home. This planning

will make the process of becoming a new homeowner relatively simple and easy.

BUDGET

Know the amount of the loan that you are approved for. You must be able to present to

the lender exactly what you want to do and how you can afford it. Generally the monthly

mortgage payment should be no more than one-third of your monthly salary. It is very

important to know the budget, but in order to know what you can spend; you need to

know what you need to spend. A finished house that has been built by a contractor can

generally run from $125 to $200 to “the sky is the limit” per square foot. This number

can be decreased by 25% to 45% for the Do-it-yourselfer.


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Make a list of all the items that you need all the items that you want. Price out all items

and total them up. Do some research, visit wholesalers, and “haggle” on pricing. Keep

an eye on the bottom line here.

Your budget will tell you how many extras that you can get for your house. If you only

can get a loan for X amount of dollars and your design calls out for X+N, you will have

to rethink the items on which you are to spend your money on. Money can be saved on

items such as windows, countertops, appliances, fixtures, cabinetry, flooring, vendors,

and contractors. It is the spending on items such as these that causes the variance in the

price per square foot.

Most projects will run over budget by approximately 10%. Cost overruns can be caused

by poor planning, the weather, people not showing up, and increases in the product cost

from the time of the quote, and even fuel prices. Rarely included in a quote is your time.

How much gas and food money do you spend? What are your out of the pocket

expenses?

Remember, keep you designs in the scope of your pre-approved budget and make a

spreadsheet with all costs broken down. When you do apply for your loan, you will have

to have your design well documented and detailed as well as providing a well-detailed

layout book.

DESIGN

Covered herein are a few basic topics on designing your house. The topics progress from

conceptual to putting it in a standard format. Your floor plan, curb appearance, and the

presentation of your design in a layout book are the basic topics that we feel important to

cover. Remember to stick to your budget in each topic. Your budget will give you your

limitations on what design features you can and cannot afford to have. Make sure that the

design sticks to local building codes.

Floor Plan

Finding a perfect floor plan can be a challenge. Every detail must be taken into

account, from the kitchen layout to the bathroom placements to the ways that the

doors will open. Weeks, months and even years can be spent into finding the


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ideal layout. However, a very rough idea can be made to come to life in a

relatively short time with the aid of qualified people. Wyoming Log Home Mfg

Co can be hired to make these plans for you.

Curb Appeal

There is a line between decorative and gaudy. A line between what can be done

economically and what will be astronomical in cost. Form should follow

function. It is nice to have your entrance grand, but if your views are mountains,

will you sacrifice the view for the entrance. You will want to take the view into

account when placing your windows. Do not succumb to vanity and sacrifice

viewing to curb appeal; you look out of the house, not into. However, if you have

no views, curb appeal may be your correct choice.

Large windows that face the sun will make the house overly warm. A general

note is to have your large glass windows face the sun in the morning and not in

the afternoon. The house will cool down and not be uncomfortable at night when

you wish to sleep. Remember, all your windows and rooms cannot face south

either, unless you are building the house into the side of a hill. Pay heed in this

order; the viewing area, the south, the sun, and then the curb.

Layout Book

For a loan, a bank and an appraiser will require a well-documented plan for your

house or structure. Contractors and sub-contractors also need a well-documented

plan to accurately bid out any jobs. Floor plans, elevations, electrical, cross

sections and details are needed. The more accurate your layout book is, the fewer

mistakes will be made.

A well-made layout will save you time and materials. You can determine, or

have determined for you the amount of materials that you need. Depending with

a quality layout and an experienced design team, the material cost divergence can

be kept to a minimum. This is done through powerful CAD software, design


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excellence, and again, experience. Bottom line is, a superior layout plan will cost

more, but in the long run the savings will be ten-fold.

You will need from the designer two sets of plans, a final copy printed on 20 lb-

bonded inkjet, and a copy printed on 18 lb translucent bond. The 20 lb is a

tougher paper used as a final set. The 18 lb is for making copies at a print shop so

that you can distribute them to the appropriate people such as sub-contractors.

At Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co we pride ourselves in our superior quality of our

layouts and the cost effectiveness that they produce.

PERMITS

Consult local code enforcers on permitting. Building permits are required in most areas

for new construction or additions. Permits can and will vary from city to city, county to

county, and state to state. Know your local zoning and codes before applying for

permits. Knowing the information beforehand will keep misunderstandings to a

minimum.

ACCESS

You need to be sure of your access. Make sure you have all the access that you will need

for present and future scenarios. If you have an easement, is it legal? Make sure any

bridges can be crossed with heavy trucks and that all roads can be used with heavy

equipment. Get everything in writing and signed by all responsible parties.

FEES

Power, water, and sewage all cost money to connect. When you are building, you will

need power at your jobsite. It is also a good idea to have a port-a-potty also. If you opt

for natural gas you will have to take that into account also. It also may cost you a fee to

get a building permit.

SITE PREPARATION

Preliminary work must be done on your site. It must be known whether or not you need

to hire engineers to test your soils and surveyors to validate your property line. You will


13

have to know your well parameters and availability. You will have to know what kind of

a septic that you can have and where it can go. All these categories will affect your

budget from the cost of the engineers and if required, the costs of putting in your well and

septic.

Geology

You may be required to get soil tests to determine your footing design. If you are

building on rock, how will you install your well or your septic system? Does the

soil drain well or will you have to make ditches? A soil engineer is needed for

this.

Property line

Have the corners of your property checked and staked by a qualified person. If

you are unsure of the stakes, or there is any ambiguity, get it taken care of before

you start any dirt work. Make certain that all your property lines are up to date

and more importantly, legal. A land surveyor is needed for this.

Well

Check zoning with the proper local government officials. It may be the case that

you have no access to water and will need a cistern. You will have to take that

into account when designing your home. You may not need a well if you’re

building where public water is available.

Septic

Check zoning with the proper local government officials. You may have to have

a raised septic system depending on your ground water table. Separation is also

needed between the well and the septic. This varies from place to place so you

will have to consult your local zoning regulations. You may be able to just hook

into the city or county works if available.


14

Foundation

Where on your parcel will you put your foundation? Stake out where you want it

to go, how you want it to face. Make sure you have some batter boards in place

to aid in the excavation. The ground slope will determine what you need to do for

your foundation. If it is flat, you can get by with a slab or crawlspace. The more

severe the slope, the less your options become. You will have to go with an

enclosed or walk out basement. You may be required to have a civil or structural

engineer do this.

PRE LOG HOME CONSTRUCTION PLANNING

Your design is governed by your budget. Your planning is governed by your design.

When deciding what lengths to cut your logs, and where to place them, you must know

about certain design features. You have to know where your plumbing, electrical,

heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC), windows, doors, and any internal and

external support structure will be. Once you know the spatial relationship of these items,

you can design your log lengths and where they will be placed. Most, if not all of your

pre construction planning can be taken from your layout book.

Log Lengths

You will have to do extensive planning and conceptualization of log lengths to

get them to fit. This must be done as efficiently as possible to minimize waste

and the need to order more logs. If you are not efficient, you will have a lot of

waste and have walls with many butt joints in them. The guidelines for setting up

your walls, crossing the corners, and butt joint placement are explained in detail

later in section 2.2.5.4.

If using random length logs, a plan should be drawn up of the log walls. On this

plan, you will determine where each log will go. You will have to determine

what logs are to be cut and where to place the remainder of that log. Again, this

is of utmost importance because it will determine the look of your house. The

fewer awkward butt joints the better.


15

A cut sheet diagram should be made and each log should be accounted for before

you cut and place any logs. It cannot be stated enough that if you are wasteful,

you will be short on logs and have to spend time and money ordering new ones.

Before you can start the cut sheet diagram is started, the following items must be

completed:

Window and Door schedules.

Exact window and door placement on the floor plan.

Internal post and beam structures.

External post and beam structures.

Wall heights.

Log types.

Elevations.

After you know what is going into your log house, you can then design the cut

sheets to determine your log lengths. Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co can be hired

to make the cut sheet plans for you.

Internal and External Post and Beam

If your floor plan is large enough you will have to incorporate an internal post and

beam structure to support the roof and roof purlins. It must be noted that you can

replace most post and beam structures, at an additional cost, with a custom king

post truss.

Log beams have limitations on their spans. These limitations are based on their

size, the wood type, their length, the load that they are carrying, and their

accepted deflection (how much the beam can bend before it starts ruining things

such as cracks in the plaster.). Generally try not to span more than 16 feet with

8x8 logs, 18 feet with 10x10 logs, and twenty feet with 12x12 logs.

Posts should, when possible translate from the purlins to the foundation in a

straight line. It will, however, be necessary to place a beam on the purlins to open


16

up the structure. It would be make sense to have an internal post every four feet

on your loft or your main floor.

Doors and Windows

Have your doors and windows picked out prior to or in conjunction with design.

You will have needed to know this already because it will have to be accounted

for in your plan. Having a door and window schedule is important. The schedule

will give you the rough opening dimensions for you openings. These

measurements are then used on your cut sheet so that you can adjust your log

lengths to have the correct openings. If you do not, your doors and windows will

not fit properly.

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)

You will have to make a choice before construction as to which type of HVAC

you will use. In-floor heating requires a different approach to the sub-floor than

ductwork. Ductwork, however, makes central air conditioning possible. These

approaches will be discussed in further detail in section 3.1.6.

Plumbing

Pick out fixtures to fit your plan. Determine where your sewer is going to enter

and exit your house. You may have to redesign your interior layout a bit if it

enters at an undesirable location, such as in a bedroom in a basement. You will

also want to have hydrants on the exterior of your house.

Electrical

Make an electrical diagram for each floor showing placement for all fixtures,

outlets, switches, telephones, and cable. Take this to a licensed electrician for a

quote. Make sure that every subcontractor is bidding like against like. The

placement of the electrical outlets and switches in the log wall are discussed in


17

detail in section 3.1.14. Know where your power is coming into your house. You

will need to put your electrical fuses close to this.

CONTRACTOR

You can either hire a contractor or you can be your own contractor. Each has its

advantages. The contractor will take care of all the subcontractors for you and make sure

the project is going smoothly if you cannot afford the time. If you are the contractor, it is

up to you to align the logistics of all the subcontractors from cement, electrical, HVAC,

drywall, appliances, and et cetera. You will need to present your layouts to the contractor

and sub-contractors for bidding.

Make sure that you are able to get copies of your layouts. A sub contractor cannot

accurately bid out a project without them. A print shop can make copies of your blue

prints for you. You will want to get copies from a translucent bond set of layouts. These

are a semi transparent “trace paper” set that makes copying easier. Wyoming Log

Home Mfg Co can provide a translucent bond set of layout plans.

The clear benefit of you being the contractor is saving money. However, you must have

faith in the fact that you know what you are doing. This manual will help you in the task

of building a log house. But it all comes down to these questions, can you do it, will you

have the time, do you possess the skills?

GREEN SOLUTIONS (Optional)

Something to consider when designing your home is a “green solution”. Solar power and

wind power have made great advances in the last several decades. Passive solar power

can be used to heat your water. This is also a benefit if you have in floor heating. Active

“photovoltaic” solar power can lessen your power draw off of the grid. This approach

could also take you off the grid entirely. Wind power can be used in certain areas also to

further augment your needs. A wise choice here will have an initial investment, but in

the long run it will pay off. Generally using an alternate energy source, such as solar and

wind, will make you eligible for a federal tax credit.


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CONSTRUCTION

Construction is broken down into four main sections; footings, foundation, home, and

finishing. Each section is important in its own right. It must be remembered though, that a

house is only as good as its foundation. Extra attention is focused on that concept. It must be

noted that there are as many ways to build a house and that this is the way Wyoming Log

Home Mfg Co builds their houses. This technique has over thirty years of impressive

success after success.

FOOTINGS

Preliminary footer specifications, excavation, drainage, layout and construction are all to

be considered when doing your footers. This is a very important stage for the

construction of your house. Mistakes here can prove costly when the construction of the

house begins. Proper time and attention is needed to eliminate any measurement issues

when constructing your footers


19

Preliminary Footer Specifications

Before you can construct the footers, you need to know what size they need to be.

You will also need to know where the footers will go and how deep they need to

be. Your house may need a variety of footers. If your house has a fireplace or

any internal post and beam structures, you will need to add reinforced concrete

pads below them.

To be safe, consult a structural engineer and have a soil test done. Make sure that

they know exactly the load that you will be putting on those footings. Your

building height, stories, floor design and log sizes are some of the items that will

determine your load. Logs are heavier than stick build. Rule of thumb, 1 linear

foot of 10-inch log wall at 8 feet of height is 125 pounds. The standard footing

size is 20 inches wide by 8 inches tall.

Consult your layouts to where any internal beams or fireplaces are placed; a

concrete pad will have to go underneath this to translate the internal downward

forces to the ground. Fireplace footers should be approximately the size of the

fireplace. Footers for an internal post should be made of a reinforced concrete

pad that is 3 feet wide by 3 feet wide and 8 inches deep. It may be required

however to have a footing that bridges the middle of the structure, or if there are

load bearing walls, a continual footer beneath them.

If you have a basement or garage, you will need to have a frost wall beneath the

exterior openings. The bottom of the footer from the top of the grade is 42 inches

by code. Remember, codes can and will vary, so check with the proper officials

to be certain.

Site Preparation

Before you get started on any excavating, an outline will have to be drawn onto

the ground of exactly where to dig. Stakes must be driven and batter boards must

be set up. Blaze orange paint and string lines are used to mark the area.


20

When you measure out the perimeter at least three people are needed to make it

easy. Start with one metal stake. (Fig 1) Use this stake to determine the

positioning of the house. All measurements are to be taken from this stake so

make sure it’s securely implanted into the ground, over a foot deep if necessary.

Use a 100 foot tape measure to measure the distance of the second stake. In order

to get the position of the third stake you need to triangulate it with the aid of

another 100’ tape measure. To triangulate this measurement you must secure one

tape to the first stake, this tape will measure your diagonal. Then you secure the

second tape on the second stake, this will measure your length. When the tape

measure from your first stake reads the distance of your diagonal, and the second

tape from the second tape reads your length, this is where you put your third

stake. To achieve the positioning of the fourth stake simply repeat this for the

other side taking to account that you’ll have to “mirror” what you have done.

When you are done, the difference in all of the four sides and the diagonals must

be no greater than ¼ of an inch if at all possible. Make sure that the tape is tight

Figure 2 Measuring out the stakes.


21

and that there are no rocks or other obstructions in the way. Also try not to

measure in a high wind environment if it can be helped. Later when you are

installing the form boards and the stakes it will be easier to attain the ¼ of an inch

level of accuracy.

String line where you wish to dig and use batter boards to attach the line. In soft

soil batter boards are a must be used to create an extremely reliable mark. These

markers will keep you on track and prevent any oversights on digging.

Excavation

When excavating for your foundation, whether it is a full basement or a slab

several things must be considered. It must determine what to remove and where

to put the overburden that has just been removed. Consideration should be made

for exactly how much earth is to be removed. Special attention must be put into

replacing the soil and to slope it all away from the house. If the excavated soil is

sand and the site is in a windy area, all of the overburden will be blown back over

the worksite.

Anytime doing a concrete pour, soil must be removed from the site. All grass and

root overburden must be removed to ensure a stable foundation. Any organic

material below and around the foundation and the footers will cause cracking due

Figure 3 Cross section of the footing with respect to the soils, foundation, and drain tile.


22

to plant growth or decay. Make sure you have a place to put all this dirt where it

is not in the way of construction. Some of the dirt will have to be put back, so do

not put it too far away.

It also may be a good idea to separate the soil types. Clay, gravel, and organic

dirt have different attributes. You do not want to put your topsoil on the bottom

and your clay on the top when backfilling.

When excavating for the footers, make sure you have at least two feet from the

outside of the footer to the excavation wall. You will need space to work. If too

much material is removed it will cost more money for the excavation and will

take longer to refill. The less soil disturbed, the less soil will have to be tamped

back in place.

Use a transit a laser level and landscaping spikes to make sure that the bottom of

the hole is flat. Variations in this can lead to a host of problems. Your footers

will not be level. You could end up with the bottom of the excavated area

sloping away from a day lighted basement creating drainage issues. If the bottom

of the hole is not flat and you’re pouring a slab, your slab will have varying

thicknesses and will lead to cracking and instability.

All slopes must be worked to slope away from the house. This is to insure that

any moisture, above and below the surface, does not enter the house.

Drainage

Always slope away from the house. Too much ground slope may force you to put

in full or walk out basements. You will have to use drain tile, for potential

ground water problems (Fig 1). The drain-tile can lead to a sump pump or be

day-lighted to the exterior of the house.

A sump pump can be used for surface water. Day-light the drains if the site is on

a hillside. Rock and or gravel may be needed for leveling and drainage.

If you have a wet spot under the house during excavation, this too must be

drained. Drain tile should be put down where the spot is to direct any potential

water flow away from the building. This should be done anywhere within the


23

excavated area especially when pouring a slab. The pressure that groundwater

can create may fracture your slab in the long run.

The drain tile generally has a 4 inch diameter and is placed outside the foundation

below the tops of the footers. A bed of porous gravel is laid down before it is set

in place. Then the pipe is covered in about 6 inches of gravel and tarpaper is

placed over the top of the gravel. This will ensure that the drain tile will not be

filled up with fine sediments such as sand, silt, and clay. Soil that has been

removed for the excavation is then placed upon this and it is compacted.

Drain tile is generally laid down after the construction of the foundation before

backfilling. However, if there is a spot that will require drainage inside the

foundation walls, it must be dealt with before laying the footers and subsequent

foundation.

It is important to understand the importance of drainage. Without a proper system

to relieve liquids, you can have movement in your foundation that will lead to

cracking and upheaval.

Drain Tile supplies needed:

□ 4” Drain Tile.

□ Gravel.

□ Tar paper.

Form Layout

Forms are used to hold the concrete in place. A string line is set up to the exact

measurements of the layout to guide the footer. A transit is used to set up the

exact elevation of the tops of the form boards. The forms are made up of

planking and held upright with stakes. It is the forms job to hold the concrete in

place as it is poured and as it cures. The planking and stakes are removed after

the concrete has had ample time to cure.

The forms must be properly measured and constructed. Special attention must be

given to the accuracy of the diagonals measurements at the corners and the

elevation of the top of the footers. (Fig 2) A measurement of the diagonals will


24

keep the forms square. Use the pre-determined dimensions from the footer plan

in your layout book.

Lay out string lines to insure the correct dimensions. Pick a corner that will be

your baseline for you measurements and pound in a stake. Use a 100 foot tape

measure to measure the distance of the second stake. In order to get the position

of the third stake you need to triangulate it with the aid of another 100’ tape

measure. To triangulate this measurement you must secure one tape to the first

stake, this tape will measure your diagonal. Then you secure the second tape on

the second stake, this will measure your length. When the tape measure from

your first stake reads the distance of your diagonal, and the second tape from the

second tape reads your length, this is where you put your third stake. (Fig 4) To

achieve the positioning of the fourth stake simply repeat this for the other side

taking to account that you’ll have to “mirror” what you have done. When you are

done, the difference in all of the four sides and the diagonals must be no greater

than ¼ of an inch if at all possible. Make sure that the tape is tight and that there

are no rocks or other obstructions in the way. Also try not to measure in a high

Figure 4 The footing forms being laid out.


25

wind environment. Later when you are installing the form boards and the stakes

it will be easier to attain the ¼ of an inch level of accuracy.

Use a transit to measure the elevation. Measure the tops of the initial stakes that

were pounded into the ground for the string lines. Adjust the stakes so that they

are all the same. This will help with keeping the elevations the same when you

put in the form boards. As you put down the form boards, measurements of

elevations from the top of the forms will keep them level. A laser level would

help with this greatly. There must be no greater than ¼ of an inch difference in

elevations. A ½ inch off here can and will translate to 3 inches out of plumb on

top of the foundation wall. This will lead to instabilities in the foundation walls

and subsequently the house.

The outside perimeter measurement is the most critical. Before you string line the

interior dimensions, drive the stakes and lay down the planking to the correct

elevation for the outside perimeter. When the outside perimeter is complete,

prepare a string line the interior form board placement. Make a mark that is the

width of the footer from the inside edge from each corner of the inside of the

Figure 5 Measuring the diagonals.


26

outer perimeter form boards. Drive a nail into the form board at this mark, there

should be eight marks. Run a string line from these nails; make sure you run the

string line back over itself in the corners. (Fig 5)

Stake off form boards at the appropriate distance parallel to the outside perimeter.

Make sure that when the stakes are put into the ground that they are the distance

away from the string line that is the width of the planking that is being used. If

the stakes are put in on the edge of the string line, the footer will not be thick

enough. Keep the elevations as exact as the outside perimeter.

There is a very good reason for having the form boards as straight and as level as

possible. When you take the measurements for the foundation walls, you are

taking them from the sides of the footer. If the footer is wavy, then your wall will

be wavy. If the footer is crooked, then your wall will be crooked. A crooked wall

leads to floor joists of varying length and that in turn leads to rooms that are

crooked. If it is wavy, then your floor will be wavy and so will your walls and

Figure 6 Setting up the interior form boards.


27

your roof. Windows and doors will not properly fit. Your house will be a mess if

proper attention and time is not given to the correct building of your footers.

The forms must also be made out of the appropriate planking material and

secured in place with the use of stakes. Use 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12 planking for the

form boards. The dimensions of the planking will depend on your footer depth.

The types of stakes that you use to secure the forms are dependent upon the soil

type. Wood stakes for normal soil and steel for rocky soil. Stakes are placed

closer together in softer soils, further apart in firmer soils. Staking out where the

forms will go takes time and energy, but it must be done correctly. Reinforce any

joint between form boards with stakes or pieces of scrap lumber. You must be

absolutely sure that the weight of the volume of concrete will not “blow out” your

forms. This will cost time and money. Remember to constantly check your

measurements, take your time. (Fig 6)

Figure 7 Make sure that the form boards are level with each other.


28

The order to laying out your forms is as follows:

□ Set up a stake a properly measured string line.

□ Check your diagonals at the stakes

□ Check your elevations at the top of the stakes

□ Insert the proper planks.

□ Stake the planking every 4 feet to 6 feet (depending on soil).

□ Screw all the stakes to the planking.

□ Reinforce joints with additional stakes.

□ Install bracing OSB or 1x4 bracing straps every six inches.

□ Recheck your diagonals.

□ Recheck and fine tune the elevations to within a ¼ of an inch.

□ Re-screw all the stakes to the planking to make elevation

adjustments if needed

Tools needed for laying out the forms:

□ Sledge Hammer.

□ String Line.

□ Two 100’ tape measures.

□ Power Drill.

□ Level (laser if possible)

□ Transit

Supplies needed for laying out the forms:

□ Screws.

□ Stakes.

□ Form boards.

□ Pry bar for disassembly.


29

Construction

After the completion of the forms it is time to start constructing the footers. It is

important to correctly reinforce the footers with ½” rebar. (Fig 7) There are two

types of rebar to install horizontal and vertical. When you pour, everything must

be secured so it does not move. The poured concrete in the footer forms will need

to be screed. After the footers cure, the forms and stakes are to be removed.

Rebar comes in 20 foot long sections. You will need to have a rebar cutter on

site to cut the rebar to appropriate lengths. You will also need to bend rebar so it

can be “teed” off into other rebar. You can use the rebar cutter to bend the rebar.

Before you place the rebar in the forms, put two rebar stakes every two feet.

These stakes will hold the rebar in place and keep the rebar from spreading apart

when the concrete is poured.

Figure 8 The rebar placement in the footers also showing the form boards.


30

We usually recommend 12” x 20” footer size reinforced with four ½ inch pieces

of rebar, two on the top and two on the bottom. Set the horizontal rebar into the

forms. (Fig. 3) Hook the rebar into the rebar stakes. (Remember to check your

local codes before hand.) A good rule of thumb, keep the lower course of rebar 2

inches from the ground. And the upper course 2 inches from the top. Rebar

stakes ensure the heights from the ground and the top of the pour. Make sure the

rebar is at least 4 inches from the sides of the forms. Consult your local codes for

further details on reinforced concrete footers. (Fig 8)

Place ½ inch of vertical rebar every 4 feet centered on the footer. “Tee” the

vertical rebar into the lower tier of the horizontal rebar. The rebar generally

extends 2 feet in height from the top of the footer. In a 12-inch deep footer, this

would make the height of the rebar above bend around 2 foot 10 inches. Fasten a

piece of OSB to span the form board over where the vertical rebar will be placed.

Drill a 3/4 inch hole into the center of the OSB strips. Insert the vertical rod into

Figure 9 Form boards in place with the horizontal rebar being held in place with rebar

stakes. Strapping is used to hold the vertical members in place and to also prevent the forms

from spreading.


31

the hole and fasten the bent portion of the bottom to the parallel rebar. Make sure

you install the temporary protective caps on all your vertical rebar to avoid

injuries and to make the rebar more visible. (Fig 9) Again remember to consult

your local codes for further details on the reinforcement of concrete footers.

Cross wire the rebar every other rebar stake (four feet) to prevent the spreading of

the rebar. Cross wire every joint in the form boards to prevent the form boards

from spreading.

You may need to be required to install an Ufer ground wire. (Fig 10) Use a

copper strand wire and attach it to the rebar in the footers. Run the copper strand

out the bottom of the footer. This will allow the house to be properly grounded.

Its effectiveness is based on the idea that concrete is more conductive than most

soil

You’re almost ready to pour the concrete. But before you begin, there are several

logistical tasks that you must complete:

Figure 10 Vertical rebar members placed through the strapping. Notice the protective caps

on the rebar and also the Ufer ground wire.


32

□ What time will the cement trucks arrive?

□ How much concrete do you need?

□ How many trucks do you need?

□ If there is more than one truck you will have to stagger their

arrival.

□ How long will it take to unload the cement?

□ Weather, will it rain, or snow.

□ Can you get the concrete to all sides of the site?

□ Can you get concrete to the site?

□ Do you need a pump truck? (Fig 11)

□ The pump truck must arrive before the cement trucks.

Make sure that you have the right equipment for the job. Concrete is very

corrosive. Make sure you are wearing the proper attire, rubber boots and old

clothing. Wear gloves too or your hands will get burned. It would also not be

Figure 11 The Ufer copper ground wire is attached to the horizontal rebar inside of the

forms.


33

beneficial to have the truck show up and you do not have any wheel barrows or

hand trowels if and when needed.

Tools and supplies needed for the concrete for the footings:

□ Wheel Barrow

□ Trowel

□ Shovels

□ Water source

When the concrete arrives, before you pour, make sure that it is the right

consistency. Keep in mind that concrete should roughly contain (by weight, not

volume) minimum 15% cement, 60-75% aggregate (this can be all sand, or a mix

of sand and crushed rock or pumice) and a minimum of 15-20% water. A

concrete slump test can be performed to gauge whether it is the correct mix is and

if the mixes are consistent. A low slump is preferred in construction and all the

slumps from different trucks should match.

Figure 12 A pump truck makes it quick and easy to pour the concrete into the footer forms

and later for the concrete in the foundation.


34

Basically for a slump test, the concrete is put into a container and overturned on

the ground. After about five seconds the container is removed. This container is

called a slump cone. The difference in the height of the bucket and unsupported

stabilized concrete is its slump. So if it slumps too much, it isn’t suitable for

construction. The acceptable slump is referred to in your building codes. You

may or may not have to add water or aggregate to the batch to arrive at the correct

consistency.

It may be a good idea to wet the ground where the cement will be poured. This

may ensure that the ground will not absorb some of the moisture in the concrete.

This would cause the bottom of the footer to become brittle.

Pre pour checklist for the footers:

□ Concrete is the right consistency.

□ The ground beneath where the cement is to be poured is damp.

□ Everyone is paying attention.

Figure 13 Leveling off the concrete to the form boards with a 2x4 screet.


35

□ Trash is out of the way.

□ The forms are reinforced and will not “blow out”.

Now it is time to pour the concrete into the forms. If you cannot get the truck

close enough, use a wheel barrow to move the cement. Level off the form boards

with a 2 x 4 screet. (Fig 12) Make sure the concrete is as level as possible. It

may be necessary to you use a trowel in some of the corners. (Fig 13)

Cover the concrete with tarps if it looks like it is going to rain.

Make sure that the concrete has had at least 48 hours to set before continuing.

Typically at 3 days the concrete achieves approximately 40% of its design

strength and at 7 days, 60%. At 28 days concrete compression design strength

should be reached.

Remove all form boards and stakes after the concrete has set up.

It is imperative that you keep your job site clean. Loose wood will tip your wheel

barrows, as will rocks and piles of dirt. All cardboard and straps from the ARXX

Figure 14 If you are kind to your pump truck driver he will help you trowel your footers.

Notice the remote for the boom for the pump truck around his waist.


36

should be thrown away, they will tangle you up and trip you. Most of all clean

the cement off the tools with water immediately. Pile up the boards into a neat

pile and have all the stakes put into buckets. Remember to pick up any and all

screws, getting one stuck in a tire will add to your cost overruns!

Now that you have your footers in place, they should all be square with the proper

elevation. It is a good time to recheck your measurements for peace of mind as

you head into the next step, the foundation.

Figure 15 The ARXX system foundation walls in relation to the bottom course, the sub floor and

the footing. Also of importance are the depictions of the anchor bolts that tie in the first course to

the foundation wall. This shows just how structurally sound the wall is from the footer to the logs.


37

FOUNDATION

The ground slope will limit the type of foundation that can be built. If there is to steep of

a slope, there really is no economical way of getting a slab or a crawlspace in there. This

section is set up to explain the ARXX wall system that we use and how we use it. What

is of concern here is the bottom to the foundation and how it relates to the footer, and the

top of the foundation and how it relates to the sub-floor. (Fig. 14)

Foundation types

Too much ground slope may force you to put in full or walk out basement. If

your parcel is relatively flat, meaning that there can be no more of a rise in each

corner of twenty-four inches you can put a crawl space. If you wish to put a slab

on grade, you cannot have a difference of more than eighteen inches at the

corners. This section deals with a crawlspace or full basement.

Basement

Al1codes and regulations apply. A basement can either be full enclosed

or it can be delighted to the outside. There are minor variances in the wall

design. The delighted portion of the basement must have a frost wall.

The exact depth must be checked as per local codes.

Crawl Space

The crawl space is set up using the ARXX wall system. Other than the

lack of a basement, it is set up the same way. Rather than a concrete floor,


38

coarse aggregate is used to facilitate the need for any drainage. Make sure

that you create enough room to be able to move around and to install the

HVAC. All local codes and regulations apply.

Slab on Grade

A slab on grade combines the footers and the slab as one unit. An

impermeable “bubble wrap” membrane is laid down between the slab and

the compacted soil. All topsoil must be removed from under the slab so

that biomass is kept to a minimum. A slab ensures a flat floor. Before

you pour the slab for your basement, make sure that your ground is

tamped solid and that all pipes are in place. If the ground is not tamped

solid, your slab will fail. Your slab thickness will be governed by code.

We use a slab of four to five inches depending on the usage of the

basement. For instance, general usage would have a four-inch slab; a

garage floor would have a five-inch slab. A slab on grade combines the

footers and the slab as one unit. An impermeable “bubble wrap”

membrane is laid down between the slab and the compacted soil. All

topsoil must be removed from under the slab so that biomass is kept to a

minimum. The footers are tied into the slab. The slab is reinforced with

mesh. The slabs footings are 2’ x 2’ and tapers inward and upward from

the inside of the base. A frost wall of 1 ½” blue Dow is used to cover the

wall and to extend 2 feet from the bottom of the base outward.

ARXX Wall System

We recommend the ARXX Wall System. We believe it to be the best system you

can buy. This is a better system that costs about the same walls with the joists

resting on top of wall. Labor and material are about the same. Set up details for

ARXX can be found at www.arxxbuild.com. There is a basic list of items that you

will need to complete an ARXX System.


39

Vapor Barrier

A vapor barrier is affixed to the exterior of the ARXX. This can be accomplished

several ways but we recommend two. A Stick-on is the easiest and best, however

it costs the most. Damp proofing with roll on tar is fine in most cases, however it

is messy and you will have to buy special plastic suits and breathing apparatus.

Anchor Bolts

Placements of the anchor bolts are very important and at times can be confusing.

In all reality, there are only several things you need to consider when planning

where to place them. Anchor bolts are threaded on the top, 1 foot long, and set 7

inches deep into the concrete. (Fig. 15) Anchor bolts have a 90-degree L on the

bottom that faces away from the exterior.

Anchor bolt placement checklist:

□ Anchor Bolts are 16 inches from the corners and all the doors.

□ Anchor bolts will be anchored approximately every 5 feet apart.

□ The anchor bolts will not be under the doors.

□ At least 2 anchor bolts are needed per treated plate or log. You

will need to know where you have short logs that will need to have

2 anchors in them.

□ The bolts are placed after the concrete is poured and still wet.

□ Anchor bolts must stick up three inches from top of wall


40

Knockouts

Knockouts in ARXX can be PVC pipes of any size to create chases and access

through the Foundation walls for:

Plumbing

Mechanical

Vents

Electrical

Joist Pockets

A Joist pocket is a plastic insert that is imbedded into the top of the ARXX wall.

These pockets hold the floor joists in place. The pockets, using ICBO, are

imbedded 3 inches (Fig. 16) into the concrete core of the ARXX. Placed 16” on

centers, the pockets are placed behind the foam. The foam is cut out after

concrete hardens and cures to reveal the joist pockets. Make sure you allow for

Figure 16 Wall anchor bolt assembly.


41

the 1 ½ inches of treated plate, (pocket bottom will be 11 7/8 inches minus 1 ½

inches from the top of the ARXX foam.)

Concrete pour

Concrete truck will need to get as close to the pour as possible. Make sure of

access. A pump truck may be necessary due to access restrictions. When you are

ready to pour, do not fill up an entire section at once. Do a few feet of depth at a

time and work your way around the foundation. This allows the concrete to have

a uniform dispersion. It also makes vibrating the concrete a lot easier.

Pre foundation wall concrete pour checklist:

□ Make sure the difference of elevation along your wall and wall

corners is not greater than ¼ of an inch.

□ Make sure your corners are square.

□ Spray foam to seal the cracks and the joints of the wall.

□ Make sure corners and walls are reinforced with braces.

□ Reinforce vertical joints with lathes that are screwed into the

ARXX.

□ Taping of the joints is also recommended to keep everything tight.

Figure 17 Cross section of a typical wall using the ARXX system. There are several different

concrete form systems.


42

Concrete pour checklist:

□ Use a cement vibrator to vibrate the cement. Too much vibration

will liquefy the concrete and cause leaks and eventual blowouts.

□ Screed the top of the foundation wall.

□ Hand trowel top for best floor treated plate seal.

□ Anchor bolts are now set in before the concrete hardens.

□ Allow 48 hours for cure time.

Backfill

If the foundation is a basement, you will need to backfill the interior for the

concrete pour. Fill and tamp the gravel to the top of the footer. After gravel fill is

added, the ground is then tamped. The ground must be level to allow for a

uniform thickness for the floor slab. After the ground is tamped, all the pipes are

then dug out. This insures that the ground is solid around the pipes. If you were

to tamp after the pipes are in, you would crush the pipes. Fill in the space around

the dug out pipes and lightly tamp them.

Frame and put in floor system before backfill. Properly replace the soil

stratigraphy, gravel then clays then topsoil. Try not to reuse any clays that are too

plastid. Do not put too much pressure on the walls while tamping. Take your

time when you tamp. Compact the soil, do 6 inches of cover at a time. This will

alleviate overpressure on the foundation walls. Concrete walls can and will bow.

You must achieve maximum compression. A motorized tamper is a must. More

effort and cost will go into your backfilling than it did to remove the soils


43

THE HOUSE

Erecting a log house is a relatively simple, cost effective, and fast process when done

correctly. Reading through this manual and understanding each step will help. Each

area is explained clearly with each step outlined. Understand this and you will have a

relatively easy and fun time from start to finish of your house.

Understanding of the layout and the cut sheet is of the utmost importance. If you chose

to ignore this info, or to skip it, your errors will be large and prove costly. Studying your

layout plans will show you where your walls, appliances, doors, etc. will go. Studying of

the cut sheet will tell you where your logs will go.

After studying the layout and the cut sheets, it is time to start doing your sub-floor. For

this you will need your joists, treated plate, and your tongue and grove plywood. Glue

and screws are also needed. It is upon this sub-floor that you will draw the outline of

your house. This drawing shows not only where the logs are to be set, but also where all

the doors and windows will go.

The rest of this section deals with the placement of all of the logs upon the sub floor: the

wall logs, all the posts, the girders, the beams, the floor joists, the purlins, and the gable

ends. Also touched upon are trusses.


44

Layout

Again, a well-made layout will save you time and materials. You can determine

or have determined for you the amount of materials that you need. Depending on

the quality of the layout and the experience of the design team, the material cost

divergence is kept to a minimum.

Cut Sheets

The cuts sheets are the instructions on how to assemble the logs in the log home.

When viewing the cut sheet, it must be understood that the cut sheet view is of the

inside looking out. Looking at the wall view of the cut sheet, you are seeing the

interior of that log wall. This gives the logs a left side and a right side.

If you were to be on the outside looking in, the view would be reversed. Do not

get this confused; your cut sheets are viewed from the interior of the home, not

the exterior. If you confuse this, your walls will be built backwards and will not

align with the interior design of the building.

Cut sheets are the dimensioned plans for the logs placements and lengths. All

logs are stacked in accordance to the cut sheet. All window and door openings

are taken from the cut sheet. String lines are drawn on the sub-floor from the

dimensions on the cut sheet. The cut sheet is the heart and soul of the house. It is

the directions for where all the logs go. The cut sheet maximizes the overall

effectiveness of your logs. (Fig. 17)

The placing of the joints is not as simple as it may seem. It can be called an art

form. Walls that are long cannot be made with one log. Several logs may have to

be used. Where one log touches another log on the same course is referred to as a

joint. You do not want to have the joints between two logs on one course line up

to close to the joint in the course above and below. Try to place the joints that

they coincide with an enterior wall if at all possible. Hide joints from the interior

by placing them where a closet or a shower will be. When you cannot hide the

log joints in the enterior, the log lengths on the walls will have at least a bare


45

minimum of two feet apart from joints on above and below courses. This will

ensure an even symetrical and beautiful look.

Door and window openings are sized from the rough openings in the door and

window schedule. Try not to get the logs to small between window posts, door

posts, or the corners. six inches is as small as you will want to go. The log will

need space to be fastened, anything smaller may split.

Dimensioning on the cut sheet will show the elevation and the distances between

door posts and window bucks. Also there are dimensions of the rough openings

for the doors and windows. These dimensions that will be used to “draw” the

outline of the structure with “snap” lines on the surface of the sub-floor.

Sub-Floor

The sub-floor consists of a construction phase and a planning phase. The

construction phase is the actual placing of the material on the foundation wall.

The planning phase consists of “snapping” chalk lines to make it possible to

correctly “stack” your house.

The sub-floor of the house is the area that is on top of the foundation and beneath

the interior and exterior walls. It is made up of three different layers, floor joists,

treated plate, and plywood.

The sub-floor is where the all the walls are pre “drawn”. A chalk line is used to

“snap” out where all the walls, doorposts, window posts, and interior posts will

go. With the chalk lines in place, the scene is set for laying out the first course of

logs.

Figure 18 Showing a typical cut sheet with distances to wall and window openings.


46

Joists

Standard manufactured joists are fine (Fig. 18). We prefer to use an 11

7/8 inch “I” joists because we usually use in-floor heating. Spacing

between joists are sixteen inches between centers. The joists will rest in

the joist pockets that are embedded in the top of the foundation wall.

Floor “I” joist installation checklist:

□ 11 7/8 inch “I” joists.

□ 16 inches between centers.

□ Imbedded 3 inches into the concrete core.

□ Bottom of joist 10 3/8 inches from top of wall.

□ Top of joist will be even with the treated plate.

Treated Plate

Pressure treated plate is used anywhere between concrete and any other

material. Concrete will draw out the moisture from untreated wood and

ruin it. Also treated plate will resist fungus and insects.

Treated two by material generally the width of the log walls are used. This

is placed on top of the foundation walls. The plate will have to have a

Figure 19 The Floor Joists and the Sub floor.


47

hole drilled in it to allow for the anchor bolt to be accessed. You may

have to cut a notch out of the treated plate to fit the floor joists.

Treated plate installation checklist:

□ Drill a 1-inch hole through the treated plate that corresponds with

the anchor bolt.

□ Place the treated plate.

□ Put a washer and a nut over the anchor bolt over the plate.

□ Screw a nut on to tighten down the plate.

□ Each plate should have at least two anchor bolts in it.

Plywood

¾ inch tongue & groove plywood or ¾ inch tongue & groove OSB is

recommended for the sub-floor. This will make the sub-floor strong

enough to support you and your equipment.

Cut the sections to fit. Drill out 1-inch holes for the anchor bolts to pass

through. Glue the plywood on to the joists and treated plate. Nail or

screw the plywood to the treated plate and the floor joists after gluing.

Use either 8-penny ring shank or 2 ½ inch deck screws. Screw or nail

every 8 inches in the “field” and 4 inches on the edge.

Keep the surface clean and well swept, you will need to “draw” out the

door and window openings and where the logs lay with snap lines and

chalk

Plywood placement checklist:

□ Cut plywood to proper dimensions.

□ Cut holes for the anchor bolts if needed.

□ Glue plywood sections to both the joists and the treated plate.

□ Secure the plywood to the rest of the sub-floor with either nails or

screws.

□ Keep surface clear for snap lines.


48

Flashing

Ten foot long pieces of flashing is usually of a sheet metal, such as

aluminum, painted galvanized steel, or zinc alloy. Do not stain over the

flashing because the metal may react.

Flashing will weatherproof any place that water can penetrate. Put

flashing underneath the bottom course of logs. Make sure the flashing

will overlap the sub-floor, the treated plate, and the foundation wall.

Flashing will normally be a 3”x3” inch “L”.

Flashing can be set either before the logs are stacked or after. The benefit

of putting it on before is that you get a better seal with the flashing under

the log. Putting it on later will insure that the flashing does not get

damaged in the construction process.

Snap line

Use the cut sheet to determine snap line placement. Snap with a

permanent black chalk due to weather. Make sure you square up before

you snap out these lines. Line placements are taken from the cut sheets

that are in the layout book.

Snap line checklist:

□ Use black chalk (or concrete dye) it will remain visible longer.

□ Snap out where the inside of the wall will be.

□ Mark out the doorways and label them.

□ Mark out the windows and label them.

□ Mark out interior posts and label them.

□ Snap out interior partition walls.

Make sure the lines will be visible to the interior. When marking out for

doors and windows bring marks past wall snap lines. When you run your

level up for your window posts you will need to see these snap lines. By

doing this you can see your marks after the first course of logs are placed.


49

If the lines do not extend at least 6 inches beyond where the logs are

resting, you will not see the marks.

It is strongly recommended to snap out on the floor all interior stud walls.

Snapping out the interior walls helps to eliminate mistakes. Knowing

where your partitions are will help you decide where to put your electrical

outlets when laying out the second course of logs.

Placing the Logs on the Site

Logs are all bundled so the lower courses are on the top and ready for erection.

Place these bundles in order of need around your foundation when you unload the

bunks from the truck. The logs that you need first should be closer to the

foundation. This avoids having to move the logs numerous times to get the

needed logs. Make sure you have room to maneuver.

When moving the logs around to be “stacked”, we use a nine hundred pound (Fig.

Figure 20 A 900 pound hoist. This crane will allow a single person to lift and maneuver the

logs for the home walls.


50

19) hoist that will lift logs twenty-five feet into the air. If you rent one of these,

then you need to stack all of your logs as close as possible to the outside of the

log walls so the hoist can easily get the logs. The hoist is maneuverable and

strong, ideal for stacking the walls and roof purlins of a log home.

Cutting the Logs to length

Two things must be considered when cutting your logs to lengths, character and

location. The character is what the log looks like. You may have to rotate the log

to get the best-looking face showing toward the house interior. The location is

where the log is on the cut sheet; it is from this location that you will get a length.

Each log will have to be cut to the length that is predetermined by the cut sheet.

When cutting the log, measure from the left side of the log to the right.

Remember, the left and right sides of the logs are dictated by the cut sheet with

you standing on the inside of your house looking out.

Stacking Issues, Where You Can Get Out of Level

Now, rather than later is a good time to address certain issues that can happen as

you stack your house. Before you begin to stack, you must either eliminate or

deal with each of these problems.

Errors in your footing elevations.

Errors in your foundation elevations.

Warped treated plate.

Inconsistency in plywood thickness.

Fastening down the logs incorrectly.

Bolt that is not countersunk enough will cause a change in elevation.

Logs left unprotected from the elements can warp. Log homes are very forgiving.

If you do in fact have large errors (i.e. errors greater than ¼ of an inch,) you can

address them by the use of proper Masonite shims.


51

Log Walls, the First Course

Find the correct log. Place the logs with respect to the snap lines that have been

“drawn” onto the surface of the sub-floor. You are now ready to drill for the

anchor bolts. (Fig. 20)

Placing and fastening your first course:

□ Counter sink a 1 ½ inch diameter hole about 2 inches deep in the

log

□ In the center of the same hole, drill a 7/8 inch diameter hole

through the log to go over a 5/8 inch anchor bolt. (Fig. 21)

□ Remove the nuts that are on the anchor bolts that the log is to slide

over. Leave the washers in place.

□ Affix a coupler nut in place of the nut that you have just removed.

□ Screw in a piece of all thread into the coupler nut. The length will

vary depended upon your log size. This will extend your anchor.

□ Place the log over the newly extended anchors.

□ Place a washer and a nut over the anchor and tighten down.

□ Tighten down the nuts as tight as you can within reason. You want

to hear the wood “crackle”, but you do not want to strip the bolt.

Figure 21 The first course of logs attached to the sub floor.


52

Log Walls, the Second Course

The second course is where you will place your electrical outlets. The logs must

be routed out for outlet and electrical outlet placement. The electrical outlet

placement is in the Electrical Layout in your Layout Book. Electrical outlets,

depending on log package, can be routed and drilled at our mill. (Fig. 22)

Placing and fastening your second course:

□ Refer to your layout plans where electrical outlets are located.

□ Make a template for your router. The template dimensions will be

dependent upon your router size.

Figure 22 The wall anchor bolt assembly placement and installation.


53

□ Router a pocket 3 ¾ inches wide, 2 ½ inches high, and 3 inches

deep into the 2nd

course logs where your electrical outlet will go.

□ Lay the 2nd

course on top of first course. Do not fasten down yet;

they will need to be removed.

□ Mark where the hole for the electrical wire will go on the 2nd

course. Refer to your electrical layout.

□ Remove the unfastened 2nd

course of logs and drill a 1 inch hole

with an auger bit all the way through the log for the electric wire to

pass through.

□ Again, place the 2nd

course of logs on the first, and as before, do

not affix

□ Mark on 1st course of logs where your electrical will go in from the

2nd

course. These markings need to line up exactly or your holes

will be misaligned and the wire will not go through.

□ Remove the 2nd

course.

□ Drill the 1 inch hole with an auger bit for the electric at an angle

through 1st course and through the sub floor. Angle the auger-bit

towards the inside of the house. Insure that you will miss the

treated plate.

□ Clean out your drill holes to remove chips using a piece of rebar.

□ Place 2nd

course upon first course, make sure the holes line up, and

fasten down according to a pre-determined pattern with your

fasteners.

Doing the drilling this way will ensure that your holes will line up correctly. This

makes it easy for a licensed electrician to run wires from crawl space or basement

after logs are erected.


54

If you are putting a slab on grade, your wiring will be different. You can account

for the difference simply by increasing your angle of the drill hole on the first

course to allow for the wire to come out of the side of the log. The wire can be

tucked into the seam between the treated plate and the log. A trim board and

chink can be used to hide and wires.

Log Walls, The rest

Before we can stack the logs it is important to take note of the drill pattern for the

logs. Logs are, depending on package, pre-drilled. If not pre-drilled, drill for

bolts every 30 inches. These bolts range from 12 to 15 inches in length

depending on the log size used. Each course is bolted into the course below it.

Because of this, you will need two different drill patterns per course, a drill

pattern for the butt end and a drill pattern for the pass end.

Drill patterns

Drill patterns are influenced by the size of the logs. This change is

apparent at the corners where the logs cross. The type of crossing that we

do is called butt-and-pass. Log A is butted up against log B, log B

Figure 23 Cross section of the electrical wiring in the second course. Also shown is the

drilling through the first course and the sub floor for a chase.


55

extends past where log A butts up against it forming a tail. This alternates

from course to course. The wall that had the butt end will on the next

course have the pass end. (Fig. 23)

On the cut sheet, the walls are drawn up from the inside of the structure.

If you were standing inside the building, this is how you would see the

walls and this is how the cut sheets are drawn. All the logs are measured

from left to right. The left side of the log faces the draw knifing area and

the right side of the log faces toward the finishing area. For example,

when a drill pattern is 6 inches from each end, then every 30 inches, the

30 inches is measured from the end of the log, not from 6 inches, and 30

inches after that measurement, etc. Sometimes the log will be too short to

accommodate 30 inches; it may even be too short to accommodate 6

inches from each end. Here you will have to put a drill hole where you

can. You must take care to not align bolts to the bolts in the course below.

On a label, this example would be marked 6, 30, 6. Six inches from the

left, thirty inch increments from the left end, and 6 inches from the right.

The first number is the distance from the left, the second number is the

distance in increments from the left; the third number is the distance from

the right. All distances are in inches.

The drill pattern for the butt-end course of logs is:

□ Mark off six inches from the left end

□ Mark off six inches from the right end

□ Mark of 30 inches from the left end

□ Make marks at every thirty inches till you run out of log

The drill pattern from the pass end has a different set of measurements.

Place the first drill hole from the pass end of the log using these

guidelines:

□ Four inches from the pass end of the log

□ Plus half the width of the log,


56

□ Plus 1inch

□ If this were an 8-inch log, the first drill hole would be 4 inches

plus 4 inches plus one inch. This would set the first drill hole at 9

inches from the end

□ Place the next drill holes every 30 inches from the left side of the

log.

This will insure a stagger to the bolt pattern from course to course making

the wall as strong as possible.

Stacking

Follow the directions of the cut sheet. Each log goes in its own

predetermined area. The logs are placed upon each other; this is referred

to as “stacking”. Each row of logs is called a “course”. The cut sheet

shows you how to stack these logs by showing what course and what wall

that the logs go on.

Log Hawg Bolts are a type of fastener that does not require pre-drilling

however pre-drilling works better; the logs will have tendency to become

out of plumb when you fasten them down. When you plumb one side of

the log wall, secure it with a start screw, and then go to other end of the

Figure 24 Drill pattern and Log Hawgs for the fastening of one course to another.


57

log and plumb it. A hand chisel can be used to move it. Logs may shift

when you screw them down so be careful. 8 inch logs do not need to be

predrilled on the “DIY Rustic” package. Make certain you have a correct

amp drill, keep your rpm’s low 450 to 800 rpm max.

Pre-drill the top of the logs every 30 inches.

Bolt the logs down with nothing in between the courses. The logs

do not require anything between them, if something is inserted, it

will misalign the walls.

Bolts must be countersunk into the top of the log.

Do not drill above or below where windows and doors will go.

Use an 8’ level and plumb all logs off the snap lines on the floor. Use a 4’

level to plumb up all window and door openings. Maintain elevation

along the logs. There should be no cause to do this but in case you have

stacking issues, there should be no more than 1/8” variance per course. If

there is any variation when you “shoot a level”, use a Masonite shim to

correct it.

When installing a Masonite shim, place it so that the log bolt will go

through its center. Put an 8-penny nail in the Masonite shim to secure it or

it will spin when bolt is run through. Masonite shims are 1/8 inch thick.

Crossing Corners, Butt and Pass

We recommend a 4-inch overhang because too long of a tail can allow for

moisture and rot problems. Router the edges of the log ends with a 1-inch

router bit.

Plane all 4 sides.

Pass end, place bolt 4 inches plus half the width of the log, plus 1

inch from the end. Place next screw 30 inches from that blot.

Butt end, place a log hog or a spike 6 inches from the end. Place

next screw 30 inches from that bolt.


58

Butt joints

A bare minimum of two feet apart is necessary from joints above and

below the course of logs. Router the end of the log with a 1 inch router

bit. Leave a ¾ inch gap between the logs for foam and chinking.

Remember, if this is a butt-end course, a drill hole will have to be put 6

inches from the end. If it’s a pass-end, you will have to use the same

spacing that you determined.

Window Bucks and Window Opening

Window bucks are bolted in after all logs have been stacked. Normal

installations of windows are resized about 2 inches, depending on size of window

jamb. You can hide your bolt heads behind the jambs. Butt up the log to the

window routering the end of the log with a 1-inch router bit. The log under the

window will not be bolted where the window is until sill log is cut to height (if

needed). The log above the window will have any log hog or spikes in it at the

window location. The top of the window will be the bottom of the log it is in

juxtaposition with, the top of the window will be at the bottom of the log. The

log will act as a header. The log at the bottom of the window will have to be cut

as to fit the window height.

Door Posts and Door Opening

Positioning of the door posts are marked off on the sub-floor with the help of the

cut sheet. Make certain that the distance between the posts is at least two inches

greater than the rough opening of the door. If it is not larger than the door

dimensions, the door will not fit. Consult your door schedule for the rough

opening size before construction.

Butt up wall logs against the doorposts by making a 45-degree cut into each side

of the log wall that butts up against the doorpost. This will allow room for wire.

The wire is run down the side between the doorpost and the log wall. Fasten


59

posts into each wall log with 12-inch or 15-inch lag bolts (depending on log size).

Put the bolts in at a 15º angle alternating the angle up and down as you screw the

bolt into a different course.

The door opening may require some minor fitting. In order to fit the rough

opening, your door opening, and thusly your posts need to be at least 2 ½ inches

greater than the door opening. This means that a door that is 6 foot 8 inches tall

will have a rough opening and post height of 6 foot 10 ½ inches.

□ Mark heights inside and outside, left and right from the

underneath,

□ Take back down, snap chalk line on sides,

□ The log above the door does not get drilled or receive any bolts.

□ Remove excess log with skill saw or chainsaw depending on

height.

□ Set newly cut wall log back into place.

Running wire to switches, this is not done till the house is ready to be wired and

before the chinking process. Outlet center is 44 inches from the ground and is

subject to your local codes. (Fig 24)

□ Drill a 1-inch hole into the log connecting the outlet with the log

wall.

□ Run wire from outlet, through hole, and up or down the seam

between the post and the log wall.

□ Run up for outside lighting, or interior lighting.

□ Run down for interior lighting.


60

Chinking will hide the wiring. Wire can run down through the sub floor or along

the top of the second course of logs.

Posts

Posts can be set at any time to hold up beams. Fasten in posts with one 12-inch

lag bolt or one 15-inch lag bolt (depending on log size) at a 15º angle into beams,

floor joists, and purlins.

Beams

The beams sit atop the interior posts to provide support to the floor joists and roof

purlins. Interior posts are fastened to the beams as well as any interior posts

resting atop of them.

Floor joists

Floor joists are on four foot centers starting from the center joist. Some

applications may call for the floor joists to have different spacing between

centers, but generally the spacing is four feet. The floor joists should be under the

purlins. Floor joists rest upon one or two “girders”. Second story floor joists

Figure 25 Top view of the electrical going into a door post for switches.


61

should be string-lined and shimmed if necessary. String lining the joists ensures

that the tongue and grove that will be placed on top of them will be uniformly

flat. 2”x6” or 2”x8” tongue and groove will then set on the floor joists. It is

recommended that tongue and groove be fastened with 40-penny ring shank nails.

Hammer in two nails per board on each floor joist. This will eliminate squeaks.

Tongue and groove, flooring

Before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as flat as

possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ of an inch on all sides and or

edges. When installing as a floor, the elevations cannot have an allowance

greater than the ¼ inch. What this means, that if you are at the maximum

allowance for both surface before you lay the tongue and grove and then after you

lay the tongue and grove is ½ an inch.

There is an upside and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the

down side, this is your ceiling. The boards must be as tight together as possible.

Figure 26 Floor joists, posts, beams, and purlins on the second level of a log home.


62

Use leverage and force the board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel.

Use 40-penny ring shank nails to fasten down the lumber. “Toe nail” the nails in

at an angle towards you. This will cause the boards to tighten further. Use two

nails per floor joist per piece of tongue and groove, space them evenly between

the board edges and each other.

On the loft floor, the tongue and groove will overlap the top of the wall logs by

three inches. This is to ensure a flawless connection between the floor and the

logs. The second story logs that are above the tongue and groove will have to be

cut into to accommodate the tongue and groove. This means that the bottom of

the first course of the second story will have to be notched out so that it may

overlay the tongue and groove. This makes the tongue and groove extend under

the log walls and allows for a more even floor. After the tongue and groove is all

installed, then you can trim it to length to the specs of your loft. (Fig. 26)

Figure 27 Tongue and groove fastened to a floor joist. Each piece of tongue and groove

tightly interconnects with the next to provide a squeak free highly stable and beautiful floor.


63

Top Wall Logs

The top wall log is the top log on the wall that touches the roof. This is always a

pass-end that will have a cantilever that will either be 4 feet or tie into a porch

frame system. The drill pattern will be different in the top wall log than a regular

pass-end log. If you have a 4-foot overhang rather than a 4-inch overhang, plug

in 48 inches rather than 4 inches into the calculation. 48 inches is the length of

your log tail on the top wall due to the overhand to support the roof system.

This log receives a cut along the entire length of it to allow the tongue and groove

to be nailed to it. You need at least a three inch flat on the cut so that the tongue

and groove can have enough surfaces to nail in the 40-penny nails. This flat is cut

at an angle on the top wall log. The depth of this cut will depend on your roof

pitch. Generally the depth of the cut is between 1 ½ to 2 inches. This cut must

have no variation. If it does, your roof will be wavy. This is the most challenging

part for the do it yourself home builder. We cut ours on our mill saw. This cut is

referred to the purlin cut.

Gable Ends

Gable ends are the sides of your house underneath the roof. The gable ends

support the roof purlins and are cut to match the roof pitch. Tongue and groove

will rest on the gable ends. It is important to build the gable ends correctly and

with precision. Several of the ends will be cut for pockets to fit the roof purlins.

Gable end cut checklist:

□ String lines the angles; this angle is your roof pitch.

□ Place the gable end log. Do not fasten the logs down at this point.

□ Snap a line using black chalk that follows the string line.

□ Remove the gable end log,

□ Cut the angle following the snap line.

□ Place the gable end log. Fasten it down.

□ Cut out pockets for the purlins to fit into.


64

Allow for “slop”. Slop allows the purlins to be “tweaked” laterally and vertically

to fit. Your margin of allowance should be 1/8 inch. This allowance is the

thickness of the Masonite shims.

When all the gable end logs are in place, grind them all down to match using the

string line as your reference. Make them as level and uniform as you can. There

should be no more than ¼ inch variation or your tongue and groove will not seat

properly and your roof could leak.

Roof Purlins

The roof purlins will receive the same purlin cut that the top wall gets. The

measurements and the procedure will be precisely the same.

Roof purlins are on four foot centers starting from the ridge purlin and ending at

the top wall log. Roof purlins should be directly over the floor joists. This may

Figure 28 Roof purlins that have been string lined and braced to be well within tolerances.


65

not be necessary, but it makes placement of the interior posts easier. Roof purlins

should also be string-lined and possibly shimmed to be perfect.

Roof purlin checklist

□ String line purlins.

□ May move purlin and posts laterally to the string line.

□ Keep within 1/8 inch.

□ Take your time.

Attention should be paid to exact measurements on detailed plans and your roof

will be accurate! (Fig, 27)

Overhangs

Our logs can support a four foot overhang, and in some instances a five foot

overhang. Overhangs are very important when dealing with a log home. Not

only do they provide shade, but also they protect the logs from the elements and

most of all, the sun. Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co is known for their large

overhangs and large porches.

Tongue and Groove, Ceiling/Roof

Again, before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as

flat as possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ inch on all sides and/or

edges. When installing as a floor, the elevations cannot be greater than the ¼ inch

allowances.

There is an upside and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the

down side, this is your ceiling. The boards must be as tight together as possible.

Use leverage and force the board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel.

Use 40-penny ring shank nails to fasten down the lumber. Hammer the nails in at

an angle towards you. This will cause the boards to tighten further. Make sure


66

that the nail heads are embedded all the way into the board. Use two nails per

floor joist per piece of tongue and groove.

Trusses

Trusses are used when a span is too great to use a traditional post and beam

structure. In a great room, a truss will eliminate the need to have the post and

beam structure in the way of the floor plan. A truss is also of great use on the

exterior. It will remove the need for posts and open up your viewing area. Not

only are trusses structurally important, they are also very pleasing to look at and

will accent any room or overhang. (Fig.28)

A basic truss to use is the king truss. The king truss consists of two top chords, a

bottom chord, two web members (that are generally set at a 45º angle) and a king

post. 3/8 inch metal plating holds all the members together. The plating is

designed to have 2 inches of relief on each side to allow for wane.

Figure 29 Two king trusses with 3/8" reinforced plating below a tongue and groove ceiling.


67

PORCHES

Pilings, posts, beams, rafters, tongue and grove and roofing are all of the items that go

into your porch. We recommend a porch that is ten feet deep. Eight will do, but six is

too narrow.

Porch Post Pilings

The porch has its own foundation, the piles. Piles can be poured at any time

before the porch needs to be made. All of the same guidelines for soil types and

backfilling apply to the piles. (Fig. 29)

Porch post piling checklist

□ Augur a hole two feet wide and three feet deep into the ground.

□ Fill the hole with concrete.

□ Insert a Sona tube at the top and fill with concrete. Make sure that

the Sona tube top is the same elevation as the top of the sub floor.

□ The top of the Sona tube should be flush with the finished grade.

□ Make sure that the elevations of the tops of all of the Sona tube

that are on the same grade are within an inch of each other.


68

□ While the concrete is still soft, set an anchor bolt 7 inches into the

top of the Sona tube.

□ Use a trowel to level off the top of the cement on the Sona tubes.

□ Allow 48 hours to cure.

It is important to understand that the hole must be augured in. If you dig a hole

that needs to be backfilled, the tamping will cause the porch post footing to move.

The hole must be augured into undisturbed soil if at all possible.

Porch Posts

The height of the posts is determined by measuring the positive or negative

distances from the top of the Sona tube to the top of the sub floor. The pilings

Figure 30 Porch post footing with sona tube and anchor bolt.


69

must be in place and fully cured before this can be done. Use a transit to get an

accurate reading of the different heights; you can be within 1/8 of an inch.

To install the posts, measure the anchor bolt assembly height as it is assembled

and in the concrete. (Fig. 30)

Porch post installation checklist:

□ Drill a two inch diameter hole into bottom of post six inches deep.

□ Drill a tap hole for a 5/8” lag bolt.

□ Drill past the tap hole in the post about one inch.

□ Place a moisture barrier between the post and the concrete.

□ Place post over the anchor bolt.

□ Align the “eye” on the anchor bolt with hole in the post.

□ Screw the lag bolt into the tap hole of the post and through the

“eye” of the anchor bolt.

Figure 31 Porch post being anchored to the footing.


70

The lag bolt will tap into this and make the connection even more secure. You

can twist the post to tighten it down or to get the desired side of the log facing in

the direction that you desire.

Porch Beams

The beams are precut or need to be cut with the porch roof pitch. The beams sit

atop the posts; the rafters sit atop the beams. On a wraparound porch, make sure

that the posts are oversized in length. The geometry of the oversized length

depends on the width of the log; an 8”x8” requires less of an oversize than a

12”x12”. This allows a 45-degree cut to be put at all corners to fit the porch

beams together.

Porch Rafters

They are usually 4”x8” or 4”x10” rough-cut timbers. There are four feet of

spacing on centers between rafters. Fifteen inch Log Hawg bolts are used to

attach the rafters to the porch beams. Make certain that on a pre engineered roof

truss system that the rafters lay atop the pre-engineered trusses. The pre-

engineered trusses are on two foot centers and the rafters are on four foot centers.

Refer to your layout for exact placement and spacing.

Tongue and Groove

Again, before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as

flat as possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ inch on all sides and/or

edges.

There is an up side and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the

down side, this is your ceiling. Rusty or oily nails, dirty hands or gloves will be a

constant source of irritation as you try to keep your boards free of marks.

The boards must be as tight together as possible. Use leverage and force the

board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel. Use 40-penny ring shank


71

nails to fasten down the lumber. “Toe nail” the nails in at an angle towards you.

This will cause the boards to tighten further. Make sure that the nail heads are

embedded all the way into the board. Use two nails per floor joist per piece of

tongue and groove.

Porch Roof

The porch roof consists of 2”x6” or 2”x8” tongue and groove boards, tar paper,

felt or plastic sheeting, and roofing material lying atop of the porch rafters.

Flashing is used to weather-strip the roof around the edges and the contact

between the porch roofs and log walls if applicable.

The felt or plastic sheeting is a vapor barrier material that goes directly above the

tongue and groove. The felt or plastic sheeting is fastened on by galvanized nails

with plastic caps. (Fig. 31)

Figure 32 Porch rafters with tongue and groove.


72

The roofing can be either an asphalt shingle or metal. Cedar shake and slate can

also be used but at a greater cost. The roof is strong enough to support slates or

other tiles.

Porch Floor

The porch floor can be made out of several different materials. Generally we

recommend the use of TREX decking. Also the porch floor can be a concrete

slab. The surface of this slab can be stained and stamped for color and texture.


73

HOUSE ROOF SYSTEM

Your roof structure gets attached to the tongue and grove. The first layer is your vapor

barrier, and then you place an adhesive to affix the foam panels. We use a six to ten inch

foam panel system by Big Sky R Control. We feel that it is the best for our purposes.

The vapor barrier is a felt or plastic sheeting that goes between the foam panels

and the tongue and groove. This is attached to the specifications of Big Sky R Control.

The roofing over areas that are covered by engineered trusses does not require the

foam panels. Regular batt insulation is affixed or spray foam insulation is applied. Atop

of the pre-engineered trusses, ½ inch or 5/8 inch tongue and groove plywood is affixed.

Atop of the plywood is a vapor barrier of 30lb felt paper or any of the new synthetic

made ones. Atop of this vapor barrier will be the shingles or metal roofing you choose.

Metal roofing is generally used in areas of high snow load. It reduces friction and allows

the snow to slide off of the roof more easily than with asphalt shingles. It is not as time

consuming to put up; however, it is noisy in the rain and hail.

Cedar shake and slate can also be used but at a greater cost. The roof is strong enough to

support slates or other tiles.


74

REINFORCEMENT

Reinforcement may be required in windy areas to stop wind upload from separating the

porches and roofs from the house. Metal plating can be used to attach porch posts to

porch beams. Log Hawg bolts are used to attach the rafters to the porch beams.


75

FINISHING

Finishing the house consists of the interior and the exterior of the project. There is no real

order in which to do this other than what will be stated as a priority. Generally all of this

takes place when the house is or about to be dried in. Your interior finishing is what you do

to the house after it is dried in. Your walls, windows and doors may or may not be in but

most importantly your roof is on and shingled. The exterior is basically staining and

chinking. You may also have stonework to place.

INTERIOR

The Finishing work on the interior begins with hanging the windows and the doors and

ends with your budget allowance. A lot of the interior finish can be done over a longer

period of time. Remember, do not start on your finish work till all of your doors and

windows are in.

After the house is dried in, meaning essentially that the walls are up and the roof is on.

You are ready to begin the process of putting in your doors, windows, trim, sanding, and

staining. You can put up your stud walls so you can hang drywall and paint. You can

lay your carpets and floor work so you can put up your trim. If your going to put in a

fireplace that can be done also. Your cupboards and appliances will be installed. All

your electrical outlets, switches, and appliances will also be installed.


76

A lot of time and money will be spent on your interior. This is where you need to be

especially careful of your budget. Spending a little more for a better look will cost quite

a lot of money over the long haul. However, it may behoove you to keep in mind resale

value. With that said, remember, unless you are into “flipping” houses, it may not be

wise to build your house solely on resale value. Also, when finishing, think with your

head, not your heart. Years down the road, you can upgrade or add in items such as

custom outlet covers or brass fixtures.

Windows

Install your windows after your homes roof and shingles are on. This will prevent

accidents happening such as breaking the glass and injuries from that broken

glass.

Doors

Install your doors after your homes roof and shingles are on.

Sanding

The interior of your house’s logs must be done before any other finishing steps.

Each interior log should be sanded smooth. Start sanding with 80 grit and end

sanding with a120 grit. Orbital hand sanders are used. Make certain that you use

a respirator for this. Sanding takes a long time and it can be a trying process. Do

not skimp on your sanding, you will have to live with it forever. While the home

is being built, the logs are exposed to weather and sun, and will turn amber color.

(This is why Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co always wraps the logs in a protective

plastic barrier after the milling process.) To bring back the natural light color, the

logs must be sanded.


77

Interior Log Wall Coating

Before staining, make certain that all of the particles from the sanding process

have been cleaned up and all the surfaces washed down and dried. We

recommend one coat of Prelude sealer on the interior as a base layer and two

coats Sure Shine after the initial coat of Prelude is dry. (Prelude does not amber

over time like most other products)

Stud walls

Your stud walls can be put up as you sand. This can alleviate some of the

boredom of sanding. Make sure you have all of the interior partitions snap lined.

This should have been done at the beginning on the sub-floor. If the marks have

worn off, redo them. Stud walls are made up of 2x4 or 2x6 dimensioned lumber.

Each stud is sixteen inches apart from center to center. 2x4’s are used for general

construction and 2x6’s are used to contain plumbing.

Electrical wiring

The electricians will need to see an electrical layout. They will tell you when he

needs to come over to inspect your project to begin with. They will tell you when

you need them to come out to do the electrical work.

HVAC

Ductwork can be run at anytime, but if installed after sanding, it will reduce the

particulates that need to be cleaned.

We are firm believers in floor heating. It is a more efficient and comfortable way

to heat your house. It requires tubing in a gypcrete floor. A central hub with an

“on demand” water heater or boiler is also needed. This is initially a greater cost,

but it is one of the things that will save you money in the long run.

For in floor heating, place your tubing on the sub-floor 1½ inch of gypcrete will

be poured on the top.


78

Drywall

Sheetrock comes in 4’x12’ sheets. It is a good idea to keep your interior walls 8

feet high to reduce labor and material costs. Make sure you cut the drywall to fit

the contour of the logs. A textured wall is easier to finish than a smooth wall.

Smooth walls will show any and all flaws during the life of the wall. Chink the

seam between the drywall and the log wall after the wall is painted.

Paint

Paint the walls that are adjacent to the log walls before you chink the seam

between the log wall and the finished interior partition.

Interior Chinking

Chink the interior log joints after sanding and coating. All dust must be removed

for maximum adhesion of the chink. Perma-Chink brand chinking compound is

recommended as the best for any and all uses. If a clear latex product is used on

your logs, you can chink the logs beforehand.

Flooring/Carpeting

Carpet your floors after the logs are coated

Trim and Base Boards

Trim after the walls are coated and the partitions are painted. We use a wane

wood trim that we make at the mill. Trim out around the interior doors and at the

bottoms of the interior partitions.

Fireplace

The fireplace can be built after the house is dried in.


79

Appliances

What you want and what you need is the story of appliances. This is a definite

think with your head and not your heart. A six-burner stove may look great, and

you probably can think of what you could cook on it, but is the expense really

worth it? Remember, if you want something out of the budget, you will have to

cut corners elsewhere. An appliance can be replaced with a fancier model years

down the road. Focus on energy efficient model. This is a trade off in price that

you should consider.

Cupboards

Custom built cupboards can and will cost you a lot of money. It is important to

compare several quotes on all the cupboards, counters, countertops, and sinks. It

may be that you will save the most money buying them direct from the factory

chain and installing them yourself.

EXTERIOR

The exterior is fairly straightforward. Coating and chinking, but note: the longer the logs

go uncoated the more the sun can damage them by turning them amber or grey in color.

Chinking can be put off until everything else is done. Your Hydrants, or spigots, and

electrical, such as lights and exterior outlets, should be done as soon as you can.

Coatings

Logs and tongue and groove can all be sprayed at the same time. We use a darker

stain on the exterior; this gives a better UV protection.

Chinking

Perma-Chink brand chinking compound is recommended as the best for any and

all uses. Logs are chinked after…

The roof is on.


80

The drywall is up.

The interior is sanded.

The drywall is sanded.

The log walls are stained and/or clear coated.

The drywall is painted.

Hydrants

These provide water to the outside from the house for the watering of lawns, etc.

They are put in with rough-in plumbing before the sheet rock.

Exterior Electric

The electrician will put in exterior lighting and outlets when he does the interior.

This wiring is done before the sheet rocking.

Figure 33 A typical dark stained wall showing a light colored elastic chink.


81

UPKEEP

If everything has been done correctly there is very little upkeep. With that said, even with

the porches and large overhang keeping the sun and elements to a minimum, the home will

need some attention from time to time. For a long lasting appearance and to maximize your

log beauty for generations, following these steps will be of great value.

COATING

The coating on your logs will have to be reapplied per makers’ recommendations. The

logs must be kept stained or the sunlight can damage them. Porch roofs will protect your

walls from the harmful rays of the sun. The initial stain should go on a couple of months

after you build it. Depending on what product that you use, it will be anywhere from

four to six years. Your climate will also be a factor, again, consult the manufacturers

application specifications. Different finish will be used for different climates.


82

PORCH FLOORS

Due to the fact of the porch roofs, porches need minimal care. If a composite material

such as TREXX is used, then the only maintenance will be that of sweeping leaves and

hosing off dirt.

CHINK

The elastic chink may need some upkeep. Pull cracks can develop after the product

shrinks after a year or two. These cracks can be repaired quickly and will look like new.

The manufacturer of the chink sells kits to reapply chink to the damaged portions. Use

the chink as per manufactures specifications.


I

APPENDICIES

R-values and how they relate to log walls.

Air insulates, log and wood are made out of plant cells. These plant cells when dried capture

air when the moisture content of the wood is lower than the “fiber saturation point”. This

point is around 28 percent saturation.

R-value is not the only way to measure the heating and cooling efficiency of a log wall.

A straight R-value would be about 1-1.5 per inch of wood.

R-Value is not an accurate way to measure thermal mass.

Thermal resistivity (R-Factor) of different softwood species varies, but not significantly.

Generally speaking, the higher the wood density, the lower the thermal resistivity. However,

the greater the density the greater the Thermal Mass.

Log to log interface. Interior and exterior chinking reduces. Fastening the logs together

reduces the air space between the interfaces.

Log corner interface. Spray foam and interior and exterior chinking reduces the leakage.

Structural detail makes a great importance.

According to the National Research Council of Canada, one inch of Northern Pine White

gives resistance of 2.21 (R = 2.21), hence:

o 6” log wall = R-13.26

o 8” log wall = R-17.68

o 10” log wall = R-22.10

o 12” log wall = R-26.52

o 14” log wall = R-30.94

o 18” log wall = R-39.78

o Reference: Technical guide for Milled-log Buildings, report 13142, published by the

Canadian Construction Materials Center National Research Council of Canada

Ottawa (Ontario) Canada K1A 0R6 [3]

R-value for 2x4 fiberglass batt ranges between R-11 and R-15 and for 2x6 the range is R-19

and R-21.


II

Thermal Mass

Log walls have an attribute called thermal mass. Adobe wall and more specifically water

have thermal mass.

In building design thermal mass describes how the mass of the building provides "resistance"

against temperature fluctuations.

Thermal mass will absorb thermal energy when the surroundings are higher in temperature

than the mass, and give thermal energy back when the surroundings are cooler, without

reaching thermal equilibrium

For example, when outside temperatures are fluctuating throughout the day, a large thermal

mass within the insulated portion of a house can serve to "flatten out" the daily temperature

fluctuations.

Properties that are required for a good thermal mass are materials with a high specific heat

capacity and a high density.

The correct use of thermal mass is dependent upon the prevailing climate in the area.

In a Temperate to cold climate, the thermal mass is warmed passively by the sun or

additionally by internal heating systems during the day. Thermal energy stored in the mass is

then released back into the interior during the night. It is essential that it be used in

conjunction with the standard principles of passive solar design.

Log homes have a moderate R-value however they have a significant thermal mass.

A stick frame wall will have a high R-Value and a low thermal mass.

Thermal resistivity (R-Factor) of different softwood species varies, but not significantly.

Generally speaking, the higher the wood density, the lower the thermal resistivity. However,

the greater the density the greater the Thermal Mass.

Log to log interface. Interior and exterior chinking reduces. Fastening the logs together

reduces the air space between the interfaces.

Log corner interface. Spray foam and interior and exterior chinking reduces the leakage.

Structural detail makes a great importance.

Thermal mass R-Value credits. If a certain R-Value is needed, a thermal mass credit is

applied to the number (a percentage) and the new lower number is used.


III

U-Value

Log Wall

U-Value is the reciprocal summation of the R-Values of each component in the walls, doors,

windows, and chinking included. With this statement it can be seen that there can be many

variables that would determine a thickness of a wall to get the proper U-Value.

The more the windows and doors on a wall, the thicker that wall will have to be to stay

within U-Value parameters.

Windows and U-Factor

U-Factors.

Low-E coatings on south facing windows. Three basic types of low-E coating. Dark,

medium, and light. These vary to suit your desired U-Factor. The coating tints the window.

U-Factors vary with zones. A northern zone U factor would be 0.30 – 0.32


IV

TOOLS

Chainsaw

Planer

Hammer

Cat’s-paw

16 lb sledge

Worm drive saw

Perozzi

½” Drill

Auger bits

Router

Crane (rent)

Drawknife

Whirly-gig (for tying down ARXX)

Chink Gun

Trowel

8’ Level

Level

String Line Snap thing with Black chalk

Saws all

Crowbar


V

MATERIALS

BUILDING

½” rebar

5/8” rebar

5/8” anchor bolt

5/8” all thread

5/8” Coupler

1 ¾” washer

5/8” porch post anchor bolt

5/8” all thread

5/8” Coupler

5/8” Nut

Mesh for ARXX

Metal or plastic ties for ARXX

Log Hawg or other bolts

Nails

Screws

Fascia

Sofit

Sona Tubes

LUMBER

2x4 for bracing purlins posts and beams

2 x materials for treated plate

2 x materials for forms

Stakes for forms

Pre engineered Trusses (if applicable)


VI

FINISHING

Chink

Stain

Foam Panels

Decking

Log Siding


VII

CHECKLISTS

1. Drain Tile supplies needed:

□ 4” Drain Tile.

□ Gravel.

□ Tar paper.

2. The order to laying out your forms is as follows:

□ Set up a stake a properly measured string line.

□ Check your diagonals at the stakes

□ Check your elevations at the top of the stakes

□ Insert the proper planks.

□ Stake the planking every 4 feet to 6 feet (depending on soil).

□ Screw all the stakes to the planking.

□ Reinforce joints with additional stakes.

□ Install bracing OSB or 1x4 bracing straps every six inches.

□ Recheck your diagonals.

□ Recheck and fine tune the elevations to within a ¼ of an inch.

□ Re-screw all the stakes to the planking to make elevation adjustments if needed

3. Tools needed for laying out the forms:

□ Sledge Hammer.

□ String Line.

□ Two 100’ tape measures.

□ Power Drill.

□ Level (laser if possible)

□ Transit


VIII

4. Supplies needed for laying out the forms:

□ Screws.

□ Stakes.

□ Form boards.

□ Pry bar for disassembly.

5. Logistical tasks that you must complete before concrete pour:

□ What time will the cement trucks arrive?

□ How much concrete do you need?

□ How many trucks do you need?

□ If there is more than one truck you will have to stagger their arrival.

□ How long will it take to unload the cement?

□ Weather, will it rain, or snow.

□ Can you get the concrete to all sides of the site?

□ Can you get concrete to the site?

□ Do you need a pump truck? (Fig 11)

□ The pump truck must arrive before the cement trucks.

6. Tools and supplies needed for the concrete for the footings:

□ Wheel Barrow

□ Trowel

□ Shovels

□ Water source

7. Pre pour checklist for the footers:

□ Concrete is the right consistency.

□ The ground beneath where the cement is to be poured is damp.

□ Everyone is paying attention.

□ Trash is out of the way.

□ The forms are reinforced and will not “blow out”.


IX

8. Anchor bolt placement checklist:

□ Anchor Bolts are 16 inches from the corners and all the doors.

□ Anchor bolts will be anchored approximately every 5 feet apart.

□ The anchor bolts will not be under the doors.

□ At least 2 anchor bolts are needed per treated plate or log. You will need to know

where you have short logs that will need to have 2 anchors in them.

□ The bolts are placed after the concrete is poured and still wet.

□ Anchor bolts must stick up three inches from top of wall

9. Pre foundation wall concrete pour checklist:

□ Make sure the difference of elevation along your wall and wall corners is not

greater than ¼ of an inch.

□ Make sure your corners are square.

□ Spray foam to seal the cracks and the joints of the wall.

□ Make sure corners and walls are reinforced with braces.

□ Reinforce vertical joints with lathes that are screwed into the ARXX.

□ Taping of the joints is also recommended to keep everything tight.

10. Concrete pour checklist:

□ Use a cement vibrator to vibrate the cement. Too much vibration will liquefy the

concrete and cause leaks and eventual blowouts.

□ Screed the top of the foundation wall.

□ Hand trowel top for best floor treated plate seal.

□ Anchor bolts are now set in before the concrete hardens.

□ Allow 48 hours for cure time.


X

11. Floor “I” joist installation checklist:

□ 11 7/8 inch “I” joists.

□ 16 inches between centers.

□ Imbedded 3 inches into the concrete core.

□ Bottom of joist 10 3/8 inches from top of wall.

□ Top of joist will be even with the treated plate.

12. Treated plate installation checklist:

□ Drill a 1-inch hole through the treated plate that corresponds with the anchor bolt.

□ Place the treated plate.

□ Put a washer and a nut over the anchor bolt over the plate.

□ Screw a nut on to tighten down the plate.

□ Each plate should have at least two anchor bolts in it.

13. Plywood placement checklist:

□ Cut plywood to proper dimensions.

□ Cut holes for the anchor bolts if needed.

□ Glue plywood sections to both the joists and the treated plate.

□ Secure the plywood to the rest of the sub-floor with either nails or screws.

□ Keep surface clear for snap lines.

14. Snap line checklist:

□ Use black chalk (or concrete dye) it will remain visible longer.

□ Snap out where the inside of the wall will be.

□ Mark out the doorways and label them.

□ Mark out the windows and label them.

□ Mark out interior posts and label them.

□ Snap out interior partition walls.


XI

15. Placing and fastening your first course:

□ Counter sink a 1 ½ inch diameter hole about 2 inches deep in the log

□ In the center of the same hole, drill a 7/8 inch diameter hole through the log to go

over a 5/8 inch anchor bolt. (Fig. 21)

□ Remove the nuts that are on the anchor bolts that the log is to slide over. Leave

the washers in place.

□ Affix a coupler nut in place of the nut that you have just removed.

□ Screw in a piece of all thread into the coupler nut. The length will vary depended

upon your log size. This will extend your anchor.

□ Place the log over the newly extended anchors.

□ Place a washer and a nut over the anchor and tighten down.

□ Tighten down the nuts as tight as you can within reason. You want to hear the

wood “crackle”, but you do not want to strip the bolt.


XII

16. Placing and fastening your second course:

□ Refer to your layout plans where electrical outlets are located.

□ Make a template for your router. The template dimensions will be dependent

upon your router size.

□ Router a pocket 3 ¾ inches wide, 2 ½ inches high, and 3 inches deep into the 2nd

course logs where your electrical outlet will go.

□ Lay the 2nd

course on top of first course. Do not fasten down yet; they will need

to be removed.

□ Mark where the hole for the electrical wire will go on the 2nd

course. Refer to

your electrical layout.

□ Remove the unfastened 2nd

course of logs and drill a 1 inch hole with an auger bit

all the way through the log for the electric wire to pass through.

□ Again, place the 2nd

course of logs on the first, and as before, do not affix

□ Mark on 1st course of logs where your electrical will go in from the 2

nd course.

These markings need to line up exactly or your holes will be misaligned and the

wire will not go through.

□ Remove the 2nd

course.

□ Drill the 1 inch hole with an auger bit for the electric at an angle through 1st

course and through the sub floor. Angle the auger-bit towards the inside of the

house. Insure that you will miss the treated plate.

□ Clean out your drill holes to remove chips using a piece of rebar.

□ Place 2nd

course upon first course, make sure the holes line up, and fasten down

according to a pre-determined pattern with your fasteners.


XIII

17. The drill pattern for the butt-end

□ Mark off six inches from the left end

□ Mark off six inches from the right end

□ Mark of 30 inches from the left end

□ Make marks at every thirty inches till you run out of log

18. The drill pattern from the pass end

□ Four inches from the pass end of the log

□ Plus half the width of the log,

□ Plus 1inch

□ If this were an 8-inch log, the first drill hole would be 4 inches plus 4 inches plus

one inch. This would set the first drill hole at 9 inches from the end

□ Place the next drill holes every 30 inches from the left side of the log.

19. Door fitting checklist

□ Mark heights inside and outside, left and right from the underneath,

□ Take back down, snap chalk line on sides,

□ The log above the door does not get drilled or receive any bolts.

□ Remove excess log with skill saw or chainsaw depending on height.

□ Set newly cut wall log back into place.

20. Door post electrical checklist

□ Drill a 1-inch hole into the log connecting the outlet with the log wall.

□ Run wire from outlet, through hole, and up or down the seam between the post

and the log wall.

□ Run up for outside lighting, or interior lighting.

□ Run down for interior lighting.


XIV

21. Gable end cut checklist:

□ String lines the angles; this angle is your roof pitch.

□ Place the gable end log. Do not fasten the logs down at this point.

□ Snap a line using black chalk that follows the string line.

□ Remove the gable end log,

□ Cut the angle following the snap line.

□ Place the gable end log. Fasten it down.

□ Cut out pockets for the purlins to fit into.

22. Roof purlin checklist

□ String line purlins.

□ May move purlin and posts laterally to the string line.

□ Keep within 1/8 inch.

□ Take your time.

23. Porch post piling checklist

□ Augur a hole two feet wide and three feet deep into the ground.

□ Fill the hole with concrete.

□ Insert a Sona tube at the top and fill with concrete. Make sure that the Sona tube

top is the same elevation as the top of the sub floor.

□ The top of the Sona tube should be flush with the finished grade.

□ Make sure that the elevations of the tops of all of the Sona tube that are on the

same grade are within an inch of each other.

□ While the concrete is still soft, set an anchor bolt 7 inches into the top of the Sona

tube.

□ Use a trowel to level off the top of the cement on the Sona tubes.

□ Allow 48 hours to cure.


XV

24. Porch post installation checklist:

□ Drill a two inch diameter hole into bottom of post six inches deep.

□ Drill a tap hole for a 5/8” lag bolt.

□ Drill past the tap hole in the post about one inch.

□ Place a moisture barrier between the post and the concrete.

□ Place post over the anchor bolt.

□ Align the “eye” on the anchor bolt with hole in the post.

□ Screw the lag bolt into the tap hole of the post and through the “eye” of the

anchor bolt.


XVI

TABLES

ARXX Block Information [5]

# of Courses Total Height

1

1'-43/4"

2 2'-91/2"

3 4'-21/4"

4 5'-7"

5 6'-113/4"

6 8'-41/2"

7 9'-01/4"

8 11'-2


XVII

Log Course Height

c ft in

10 x 10 1 0 10

2 1 8

3 2 6

4 3 4

5 4 2

6 5 0

7 5 10

8 6 8

9 7 6

10 8 4

11 9 2

12 10 0

13 10 10

14 11 8

15 12 6

16 13 4

17 14 2

18 15 0

c ft in

8 x 8 1 0 8

2 1 4

3 2 0

4 2 8

5 3 4

6 4 0

7 4 8

8 5 4

9 6 0

10 6 8

11 7 4

12 8 0

13 8 8

14 9 4

15 10 0

16 10 8

17 11 4

18 12 0


A

GLOSSARY

Anchor bolt

assembly

The anchor bolt and all its parts. Te all thread, coupler, nut, and

washer.

ARXX Insulated Concrete Wall System (ICW).

Batter boards Horizontal boards nailed to corner posts located just outside the

corners of a proposed building to assist in the accurate layout of

foundation and excavation lines.

Bonded Inkjet Silica-based, chemically bonded porous coatings that are used as

coatings for inkjet image printing. This improves the image fade and

humid fastness properties of the coating.

Bottom chord Lower horizontal member in a truss.

Bunks A unit of cut logs strapped and wrapped.

Butt and pass Logs are not notched or milled in any way. They are in a single

course and do not overlap, and vertical pairs of logs are fastened tight

with steel bolts.

Butt end The end of the log on the log wall that terminates at the corner on the

side of another log.

Butt joints The joint between two logs where they are abutted next to each other

on the log wall.

Cement vibrator In order to minimize any air bubbles, that would weaken the

structure, a vibrator is used to eliminate any air that has been

entrained when the liquid concrete mix is poured around the

ironwork.

Chalk lines

Chinking

Tool for marking long, straight lines on relatively flat surfaces.

Material that is used on the outside and inside of the log/log

interfaces. This material has evolved from straw and mud into an

elastic material.

Cut sheet The directions for assembling the logs. They are read from the inside

of the house looking out.

Day lighted When the object mentioned is exposed to the “daylight”.


B

Dimensional

lumber

Lumber that is finished/planed and cut to standardized width and

depth specified in inches.

DIY Rustic

package

A do it yourself log package offered by Wyoming Log Homes Mfg

Co at a reduced price. The package comes as raw linear feet of logs

that are draw knifed and planed.

Door schedule

Dried in

The pricing, quantity, rough openings, and dimensions of all the

doors in a project, this is made up by the sub-contractor and also

includes the window schedule.

This is the step in which the house has its roof on and is now “dry”

inside.

Easement Non-possessory interest to use real property in possession of another

person for a stated purpose.

Electrical layout

Fasteners

A type of technical drawing, shows information about power,

lighting, and communication for an engineering or architectural

project.

Any hardware that secures an object to another object, e.g. nails,

screws, lag bolts, and Log Hawgs.

Field The center or middle portions of the sub floor that is not the edge.

Form boards

Gypcrete

2 x planking material that makes the forms for concrete to be poured

into for construction.

Used as a floor underlayment used in construction for fire ratings,

sound reduction, radiant heating,

and floor leveling. It is a mixture of

gypsum, Portland cement, and sand.

HVAC Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning, sometimes referred to as

climate control.

Hydrants Water delivery spigots on the home exterior.

ICBO

King post The center vertical member of a truss sits perpendicular the bottom

chord.

Layout book

Laser Level

A set of plans that are used to build a house.

A laser used to achieve a straight line weather angles or level.


C

Landscaping

spikes

Spikes that are over a foot in length that are used to mark lot corners

hold forms amongst other uses.

Log Hawg bolts Bolts that are used to screw down logs.

Masonite shim

Moisture barrier

a type of hardboard The long fibers give Masonite a high bending

strength, tensile strength, density and stability.

A semi permeable or non permeable membrane that controls the

moisture.

OSB An engineered wood product formed by layering strands of wood in

specific orientations. In appearance it may have a rough and

variegated surface with the individual strips lying unevenly across

each other.

Paper weight The basis weight of a paper is the designated fixed weight of 500

sheets, measured in pounds, in that paper's basic sheet size.

It is important to note that the "basic sheet size" is not the same

for all types of paper.

Pass end The log end that sticks out of the corner of the walls, also referred to

as the tail.

Photovoltaic

Piles

Solar cells for energy by converting solar energy (sunlight, including

ultra violet radiation) directly into electricity.

In this sense a hole drilled into the ground from three to four feet

deep and filled with reinforcing rebar and concrete.

Pre-engineered

truss

Trusses are used in home construction as a pre-fabricated

replacement for roof rafters and ceiling joists (stick-framing). It is

seen as an easier installation and a better solution for supporting

roofs as opposed to the use of dimensional lumber's struts and purlins

as bracing.

Pump truck

Purlins

Purlin cut

Boom pumps are used on most of the larger construction projects as

they are capable of pumping at very high volumes and because of the

labor saving nature of the robotic arm.

The beams in a house that support the roof through direct contact.

The lengthwise cut on a purling that is the same angle of the roof

pitch. The bearing surface of this cut should be at least two inches to

allow for a nailing surface.


D

Roofing Felt The layer of asphalt saturated paper that goes underneath roofing

shingles in order to ensure that no water leaks into your home.

Screet A flat board generally a 2 x 4 that is used to level off the tops of

freshly poured concrete that has been placed in footer forms, form

walls, etc.

Slab on grade

Slump cone

Slump test

A structural engineering practice whereby the concrete slab that is to

serve as the foundation for the structure is formed from a mold set

into the ground.

A cone used to perform a slump test.

A test to insure that the concrete is of the correct consistency.

Snap lines A chalk line that has been snapped onto a surface to create a straight

line.

Snapping The process of making a snap line.

Soil engineer Determines and designs the type of foundations, earthworks, and/or

pavement sub grades required for the intended man-made structures

to be built.

Sona tube Concrete forms that create columns for buildings, entranceways,

structural support, and other commercial and residential structures.

Stacking Placing a log on top of another.

Start screw

String line

A temporary or permanent screw used to hold material in place while

a bolt is run through it.

A string put in place to achieve a straight line.

Structural

engineer

Analyze, design, plan, and research structural components and

structural systems.

Sump pump Used to remove water that has accumulated in a pit commonly found

in the home basement.

Surveyor The services of a licensed land surveyor are generally required for

boundary surveys.

Top chord Upper diagonal members in a truss.


E

Trace paper

Transit

Translucent paper.

Used by the surveyor to measure both horizontal and vertical angles.

Translucent bond

paper

Paper that allows light to pass through them only diffusely, used for

making copies.

Treated plate Lumber treated with a preservative that protects it from being

destroyed by insects, fungus or exposure to moisture. Generally this

is applied through combined vacuum and pressure treatment.

Wane An imperfection in the wood, beneficial in a log home for character.

Web members Internal diagonal members in a truss, connecting the top chord and

the bottom chord.

Window schedule The pricing, quantity, rough openings, and dimensions of all the

windows in a project, this is made up by the sub-contractor and also

includes the door schedule.


F

ACKNOWLEGMENTS

Bob Szewc

Jason Szewc

Mike Butcher

Gay Hale

Bloedorn Lumber

Sterling at Big Sky R-control

Dave Wills at Wyoming Builders Supply

Dave Philpot at BC Timber

Mikes Electric

Total Comfort


G

REFERENCES

1. A Field Study of the Effect of Wall Mass on the Heating and Cooling Loads of

Residential Buildings (aka Log Home Report). D.D. Burch, W.E. Remmert, D.F.

Krintz and C.S. Barnes, National Beurau of Standards, Washington DC, 1982

2. Wyoming Log Home Estates Spec Home Data. M.D. Veillet, T.L.Tromble, B. Szewc

et all. Ranchester WY, 2008

3. Technical guide for Milled-log Buildings, report 13142, published by the Canadian

Construction Materials Center National Research Council of Canada Ottawa

(Ontario) Canada K1A 0R6

4. “The Energy Performance of Log Homes” prepared Technical Committee of the Log

Homes Council, Building Systems Councils, National Association of Home Builders,

2003

5. ARXX Installation Guide


H

NOTES

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