Concealed Button Placket _ Toile & Trouble

toile & troublepatterns; sewing, knitting, and of thought

06/11/2011 //3

I’ve used a concealed button placket on a few garments I’ve made (including a skirt I made with a skirtblock made at my friend Suzie’s pattern cutting day, find her excellent work sheets here), but wasinitially surprised that I couldn’t find any instructions on how to construct one. I looked everywhere Icould (ie. the internet, and nosying in all the sewing books in Waterstones on my lunch hour). It seemedstrange that such a commonly used technique was so elusive. So I examined a few shirts and realised it’snot actually that complicated to do. I’ve come up with some instructions on how to draft and constructone. These instructions rely on you having traced off a pattern piece for a shirt with no seamallowance/facing, and that you’re working with a light‐medium weight cotton, though with a littleadaptation it can be done with heavier fabrics.

Making the pattern

Take your pattern piece you want to add the placket to, and work out how big you want your

concealing panel to be. Here, I have added 1.5cm from the centre front line as the overlap, and 3cmfor the concealed panel facing

1.

I added 6cm to this*, this forms the button stand, and it’s facing, and drew a line at the 3cm mark to

separate these

2.

Add to this 1‐1.5cm depending on what size seam allowance you prefer3.

click to enlarge

Constructing the panel – I have used paper to demonstrate this so I could show the right and wrongsides of the fabric with different colours (blue=right side of fabric, white=wrong side)

1.Notch all your marked lines as you cut out

Concealed button placket | toile & trouble https://thetoileandtrouble.wordpress.com/2011/11/06/concealed-button-p...

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2. Fold and press the concealing panel, button stand, and button stand facing lines. You might want tointerface one or both of these panels. Once pressed you’ll have a kind of concertina effect (albeit a minione made of two peaks)


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3. Press the seam allowance towards the wrong side of the fabric

4. Fold the button stand flat against the wrong side of the garment and stitch along the fold of theconcealed panel facing line, catching the seam allowance inside


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5. Press the button stand back towards the centre. Work buttonholes on this panel


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I’ve used this technique on a shirt


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And a skirt made from a pattern I made at a workshop my friend Suzie ran a few months ago (find herfantastic worksheets here)


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I originally used the technique on a coat, the heavier fabric meant I used a panel of lighter weight fabricfor the concealed panel facing and inner button stand, with the main fabric as the button stand facing.

But looking at bought coats, it can be done with the main fabric for the button stand too

Even on heavy fabrics


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As I lined the coat I did not fold the seam allowance inside as in the shirt technique, and I id not use thethe line of stitching holding the concealing panel and button stand together (although it could be used).Using heavier fabrics means there is a need to make sure the concealing panel doesn’t gape, this is doneusing a length of stitching holding the concealed panel facing, button panel and button panel facingtogether and is done before attaching the lining

This can be done with a short, or longer row of stitches


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*If you want the edge of the button stand to be flush with the concealing panel, you will have to adjustthis measurement for turn of cloth. In the three items I’ve made I’ve found I prefer to work with no turnof cloth allowance so there is no risk of the button stand peeking out

Tags concealed button panel tutorial, concealed button placket, how to make a concealed button panel,sewing tutorial, tutorialCategories Patterns/instructions

Kirsten20/08/2014 at 1:06 pmThis tutorial totally saved my life tonight and was so easy to understand compared to the others Ifound! Thank you so much from a super stressed out fashion student :D

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ReplyJessica08/09/2014 at 2:37 pmBrilliant, I’m really glad my instructions were useful to you Kirsten. If you have a link or photosof what you made I’d love to see.

ReplyThe shirt that nearly destroyed my love of sewing. | sparkleneedles02/10/2014 at 8:55 pm[…] after a lot of very heavy duty thinking and scratching my head and swearing and watching thistutorial I got the hang of it. I am very pleased with the results. I managed to do a proper yoke, a […]

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Concealed Button Placket _ Toile & Trouble

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