Computer Pattern Design

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© Technical University of Liberec 2009 COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: [email protected] DIGITIZING Function: identity piece (name, set, size, mirror) digitising contour (intermediate points on the curves, grading points – value zero or grade rule, standard notch, variable notch) digitising internal contours digitising big pieces in parts digitising the marks (reference line, position marks) If you decide to use a computer for pattern designing and you are usual using paper patterns, the first step is to digitize those patterns. By digitization, the geometrical shapes of the pattern are transmitted with high precision to the computer in order to be stored in digital format. The pattern is positioned on the digitizing table and the operator follows the contour using a pointing device such as a mouse, also marking notches, darts, grain line and other technical elements. The pattern is identified on the horizontal x-axis and vertical y-axis.

Transcript of Computer Pattern Design

Page 1: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

DIGITIZING

Function:identity piece (name, set, size, mirror)digitising contour (intermediate points on the curves, grading points – value zero or grade rule, standard notch, variable notch)digitising internal contoursdigitising big pieces in partsdigitising the marks (reference line, position marks)

If you decide to use a computer for pattern designing and you are usual using paper patterns, the first step is to digitize those patterns. By digitization, the geometrical shapes of the pattern are transmitted with high precision to the computer in order to be stored in digital format. The pattern is positioned on the digitizing table and the operator follows the contour using a pointing device such as a mouse, also marking notches, darts, grain line and other technical elements. The pattern is identified on the horizontal x-axis and vertical y-axis.

Page 2: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

CHECKING AND MODIFYING All patterns can be:

automatically checked for problems concerning the seam line length,

the matching of notches and the geometrical shapes correspondence.

Patterns can be displayed and checked folded or unfolded, with or without seam allowance, with the darts closed or opened.

Some commands for modification and create pieces:

Notches – to create and manipulate notches

Darts – to create and move darts on a pattern

Grade – to choose which sizes to show on screen

Place – one pattern to be moved/rotate to fit against a second pattern

Mode rule – the input of grade values for each point pattern

Altering – to move a graded point

Draw – to draw lines or curves

Divide – to cut a pattern into two pieces

Seam allowance setting

Page 3: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

PATTERN GRADINGAfter the patterns are digitized, the operator introduces into the computer the grading rules for each piece. Grading methods may be used, based on the grading rules previously stored on your computer. GradingGrading is the process used by clothing manufacturers to produce patterns for a garment in a range of sizes for ready-to-wear clothing. The master pattern, sample pattern or base size pattern can be either a block pattern or a production pattern of a style from which the other sizes are graded. It is generally the centre of the size range for grading accuracy.

SIZE 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Bust (cm) 80.0 84.0 88.0 92.0 96.0 100.0 104.0

W aist (cm) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

Hips (cm) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

Body measurements chart for Women of medium height 160 cm-172 cmLarger size

x

y

0

grade pointsSmaller size

In order to grade a pattern, increases (or decreases) are applied at specific points of a pattern to make each new pattern in another larger (or smaller) size.

Page 4: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

These are in the form of the vertical and horizontal changes at cardinal points on the pattern. For computer grading, these are expressed as Cartesian coordinates (x, y). Piece runs horizontally on the x-axis. The x-axis or y-axis represents the straight warp grain line of the fabric and is generally used as the grade reference line.

The graded sizes can be simultaneously displayed on the computer screen and can be aligned in order to be checked in various ways.

The automatic grading method is based on complete redrawing of each pattern, respecting the standard construction rules and formula.

This method will always ensure perfect fitting for all sizes without any deviation.

Reference line

+y

+x

-y

-x

Page 5: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Grading incrementsGrading incrementsA grading increment (dy, dx) is the difference in measurement between two sizes, either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern. Increase or decrease in size takes place within the pattern area.

The full girth and length grading increments are found in most size charts.

Can also be calculated if the measurement was derived as a proportion of a full major girth measurement.

Can be calculated from any reliable drafting system by calculating two sizes then subtracting the smaller from the larger.

Bac

k sk

i rt

Fron

t ski

r t

S IZ E 8 1 0 1 2 1 4 1 6 1 8 2 0 T o fit w a is t cm 6 2 .0 6 6 .0 7 0 .0 7 4 .0 8 0 .0 8 6 .0 9 2 .0

in 2 4 1 /2 2 6 2 7 1 /2 2 9 3 1 1 /2 3 4 3 6 1 /2T o fit h ip s cm 8 8 .0 9 2 .0 9 6 .0 1 0 0 .0 1 0 5 .0 1 1 0 .0 1 1 5 .0

in 3 5 3 6 1 /2 3 8 1 /2 3 9 4 1 1 /2 4 3 1 /2 4 5 1 /2

IncrementIncrement d = 4cmd = 4cm IncrementIncrement d = 6cmd = 6cm

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© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Grade pointGrade pointssGrade points are positioned at the cardinal points of a pattern wherethe measurement to another size takes place.

These can be perimeter or internal. This movement is in an X (horizontal) and Y (vertical) direction similar to the grid of manual grading. The distance and direction of the grade point movement is recorded on an X- axis and Y - axis from a zero point (ZP) that is stationary at the junction of the axis. The measurements are marked from the zero point in one of the four directions of + X, -X, + Y, -Y.

perimeter grade point

internalgrade point

intersection point

-y

+y

+x-xzero point Fr

ont t

rous

er

grade rules of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )

+y

+x-xZP

-y

contour

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© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

The stationary zero point represents the position where no movement takes place in the X or Y direction. It is from this point that all the grading increments are calculated. The X-axis is horizontal. The movement to the right from the zero point is positive and to the left negative. The Y - axis is vertical. The movement up from the zero point is positive and down negative. Zero point can be situated in different position.

Zero pointZero point

This option allows the graded nest to be stacked at a different point to the original grade.

+y

+x

-y

-xzero point

+y

+x

-y

-xzero point

Page 8: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Grade rulesGrade rulesFor computer grading each movement of a graded point in both X and Y direction is defined by a numbered grade rule.

The grade rules are listed in a grade rule table that lists and defines the numbered grade rules.

The same rules can be assigned to any point of any other patternpiece within the same size range. Once a grade point number is assigned to a point on the pattern the computer automatically redraws the shape of the piece by connecting the grade points.

grade rule of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )

Skirt

SIZE dx dy

Page 9: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

The construction points are regarded as grade pointsSteps:

1. Grading increments calculation.Difference in measurement of construction abscissa between two sizes, either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern. Keep the construction steps is required.

The method of grade rules setting The method of grade rules setting –– computing methodcomputing method

2. Grade points setting. Grade points mostly coincide with construction points on pattern.These can be perimeter or internal. It can be anintersection point, notch, top of dart and so on.

3. Zero point (ZP) setting. The position of zero point is mostly at the intersection point of one horizontal construction line and vertical construction line to each other situated on pattern construction.ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )

4. Rule setting. Rule is setting for every points = movement of grading increment value. It is difference dy, dx. The direction of the grade point movement is marked in one of the four directions of + X, -X, + Y, -Yrecorded on an X- axis and Y - axis from a zero point (ZP) that is stationary at the junction of the axis.

Page 10: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

SKIRT SKIRT gradinggradingW1 isis ZP ZP of Back skirtof Back skirtW7 isis ZP ZP of of Front Front skirt skirt

Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Grade point Δx Δy Δx Δy Δx Δy W1 0 0 0 0 0 0 H1 0 0 0 0 0 0 K1 0 0 0 0 0 0 W2 - 4 0 0 0 +4 0 W4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0 H4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0 K4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0 W7 0 0 0 0 0 0 W6 4 0 0 0 -4 0 W4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0 H4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0 K4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0

Dimension Size 36 38 Size 40 Increments h [ mm] 1680 1680 1680 0 wg [ mm] 680 720 760 40 hg [ mm] 920 960 1000 40 kl [ mm] 580 580 580 0

Distance Measurement Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Increments [mm] H1H4 0.25hg+1cm 240 250 260 10 W1W4 0.25wg+1cm 180 190 200 10 W1W2 0.4 H1H4 96 100 104 4 H7 H4´ 0.25 hg 230 240 250 10 W7W4´ 0.25 wg 170 180 190 10 W7W6 0.4 H7H4´ 920 960 100 4 W1 H1 0.1 h+3 cm 198 198 198 0 W1 K1 knee length 580 580 580 0

Sup 120 120 120 0

H7

K7

Suppression:

0.5hg + Pv (1) – 0,5(wg + Pv(1))

W1

Back Front

W2 W4 W7W6

H1H4=H4´

K1 K4

W4´

0.25 hg+1cm 0.25 hg

W21 W22 W61 W62

Grade rules W21 = W2 = W22, W61 =W6 = W62

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© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNINGIn the computer Marker planMarker plan (Cut Plan) application, the operator sets the quantity of garments ordered by the client for each model, some general settings regarding cutting:

the length of the spreading table and spreading type for the marker

the maximum number of sheets in the lay

fabric width

sizes selection

safety distance between the pieces in the marker

pieces placed along or against the Grain

The Marker plan application can automatically generate the most efficient plan for size grouping and distribution on markers, so a minimal number of markers and lays are needed to obtain the ordered quantities. The user may choose among several automatic strategies of lay planning, as well as manual or semiautomatic methods to obtain the best results.

Page 12: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Marker makingMarker makingThe pieces that have to be cut in certain materials are nested in a rectangle that has the width of the fabric. The pieces are placed as efficient possible to achieve good fabric utilisation. Lay - out plan of pattern pieces

Final shape of pattern pieces (Master) are nested with seam and hem allowances.Pattern pieces be placed in the fabric along the reference line which is usually parallel to the fabric warp or to the column of knitted fabric.Properties of the used material have to be respected such as type of pattern style and nap.Plain fabricPlain fabric without pattern – pattern pieces can be placed as a turned by180º ⇒ less material wastePPatternedatterned fabricfabric:: (striped and check fabric) – balance marks are positioned at the strategic points on the seams to maintain correct relationship.Fabric with napFabric with nap i.e. corduroyi.e. corduroy: All pattern pieces need to laid directly along or against the nap, that is also applicable to fabrics with the distinctive surface texture, glossy surface for example.

Principles and rules of marker making

Page 13: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

There is needed to make provision of cutting technology. Set the safety distancesafety distance (buffer) that will be applied between the pieces in the marker for a better cutting quality. Range of safety size (buffer) is in the case of: cutter 0 ÷1 mm, manual cut 5 mm ÷ 15 mm.Respect the spreading type for the marker. Each spreading spreading defines the way the different layers are placed one on top of the other. The different spreading types are: S = Simple spreading, all layers are placed in the same X and Y direction.

The pieces of one complete garment are cut out of 1 layer, A = face to face spreading, T = Tubular spreading, U = Upper fold spreading

Using more sizes together and variety of pattern pieces and morecompactly fit together leads to less material waste. This depends on the length of the cutting table.The marker mustn't include the fixed edge of the fabric.

Page 14: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Parameters needed to assessing of the material utilisationMarker area Sp

Bp… marker width [m]Lp… marker length [m]

Technological waste Ot(space among the pattern pieces)

Marker percentage utilisation „e“

Sp …marker area [m2]

…area of all pattern pieces [m2]

Percentage technological waste Ot [ % ]

Bp

Lp

2[ ]p p pS = B L m

Formulas of fabric percentage utilisationFormulas of fabric percentage utilisation

[ ]2

1

mSSOn

iipt ∑

=

−=

∑=

n

iiS

1

[ ] [ ]%10% 21

p

iip

p

tt SS

OO ===

n

SS ∑−

[ ]%1021

p

n

ii

S

Se∑== t%e+O = 1

Page 15: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

MARKER GENERATION SYSTEMMARKER GENERATION SYSTEMMaximum performance in interactive and automatic marking

Main characteristicsCombines interactive fitting and automatic fittingAllows all kinds of fabric to be dealt with, whether open, folded, tubular, with stripes, checked.Unlimited dimensions as to the number and size of pieces, styles, marker length, etc…Marking is dynamic, the user may add new sizes, style or pieces to the marker.Supports all kinds of laying methods, for faced fabrics, tubular… Great flexibility and simplicity in assignment and management of gross or blocking distances, and safety or distances buffering.Allows any marker from the data base to be viewed for use as a reference marker.

Page 16: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Allows pieces on striped and checked or patterned fabrics as simply as on plain fabric.

Checked marker plan.

MMatching systematching systemMain characteristicsIdeal tool to cut striped, checked and other patterned fabric in the tailoring and upholstery industry, based on the digital process of image on the real fabric, which are taken by a high resolution telecamera.The program guarantees the correct position of the cloth patterns on the fabric pattern design.

Pattern pieces on the marker plan on striped fabrics.

Page 17: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

MADE TO MEASUREM.T.M. the complete automatized solution for industrial custom tailoring. It is a program used for the production of individual and personalized garments. The specific measurements of a customer are employed for the adaptation of standard pieces already saved in the system.Main characteristics

Automatic performance of the pattern modification on the reference garment to achieve the custom adapted garment patterns for the individual customer. Modifications of the patterns is performed on the nearest reference size to the customer, as identified at the point of sale.Automatic fitting of the markers required to manufacture the garment. The individual garment markers are fitted by copying from the reference marker.

Take measurements.

Modification pattern.

Page 18: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

The set of possible modifications to adapt a garment to the customers individual measurements is unlimited (shortening sleeves, raising bothshoulder, raise right shoulder 2cm, shortening hems, etc…)The data is sent by internet to the factory, where the garment will be produced in the shortest possible time

The customer defines the personal options for the product desired.

Creating patterns automatically.

Page 19: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

The markers can be directly sent to an automatic cutter. Cutting digital control systems may be applied in any sector where automated knife-cutting of materials is required.

Cutting room Detail of a knife

MARKER AND PATTERNS OUTPUT TO PLOTTER for manual cuttingA large variety of plotters and cutters are offered, both pen plotters and inkjet plotters. Some of the pen plotters can also be used as cutters, allowing the user to cut stock paper patterns. EXPORT FOR CUTTERS

Top cutting quality, digital control, lateral vacuum, balanced knife, direct digital control, sharpening mechanisms, blade cooling system, automatic control for adaptable regulation of the vacuum level, automatic mat cleaning system, cutting checked or patterned fabrics (Matching system).

Page 20: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

Transform your vision into realityE.g.V-Sticher is a 3D design application that lets you streamline the design cycle. It simulates texture, draping and fit of garments by displaying them on a realistic virtual human body based on your pattern, fabric and texture data.

Realistic virtual human body, fit your collection on unlimited body types Transform your 2D shapes into 3D garment

3D DESIGN APPLICATION

Page 21: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

FITThe most advanced computerized simulation of garments that genuinely reflects reality.Exceptionally detailed, true-to-life representation of an adaptable 3D human body, in various poses.Transforming standard 2D information into a 3D garment directly from the data base from standard CAD system. Supporting fitting sessions by delivering real-time 3D response to any 2D changes using inherent PGS powerful toolsAdvanced testing tools enable accuracy of the garment fit.

Page 22: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

DESIGNDesigning in 3D using picture perfect texturesDesign, present and transmit garments, fabric, seams, prints andlogos in real-time3D, with photo quality true-to-life representation

Designing in different sorts of textures.

Page 23: Computer Pattern Design

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGNBlazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: [email protected]

MERCHANDISEPresent a real-life view of your collection in a high quality, interactive 3D catalogue.

COLLABORATEEnabling remote viewing through Internet platform.Sharing data among multiple users through an integrated databasethat stores information such as style, shapes, textures, fabrics, attachments and sizes.

Communicate with your partners, expand your portfolio of design option through a realistic 3D digital catalogue.