Colt Revolvers Workshop Manual_Vol 2_Kuhnhausen.pdf

Acknowledgements

A special thanks to the following manufacturers who were generous enough to contribute items of reader

interest, including: photographs, artwork, illustrations, phantom illustrations, cross-sectional drawings,

parts diagrams, exploded diagrams, and technical data.

Colt Industries Inc., Firearms Division Ransom International Corp. Clymer Manufacturing Co., Inc. Gun

Parts Corporation Millett Sights

Colt has not published shop manuals on the mechanics of their revolvers, possibly on the belief that shelf availability of mechanical information might allow the untrained and/or unqualified to "fix", or otherwise

tinker with, Colt firearms which were not in need of repair in the first place. But, with or without books

on the subject, (and the cautions and safety warnings contained therein) tinkerers, being irrepressible, will

tinker, just the same. In the absence of specific model training programs, we believe professional

armourers, gunsmiths, and revolversmiths will be better served by the data in this shop manual than by no

data at all- and they might be helped even more by the safety warnings, cautions, and maximum-

minimum specifications given. As we see it, it's also only fair that non-professionals have ready access to,

and benefit of, as many of the very same cautions, safety warnings, and specifications as possible. In this

way, perhaps a caution might be read and heeded before the fact of an unsafe act, mishap, injury, etc.

Hopefully, the very complexity of this subject might convince the nonprofessional to take his revolver to

a Colt qualified revolversmith for repair, if, or when, repair is needed.

These days, U.S. manufacturer's are under a heavy liability load. The problem is even greater for

manufacturers with independent field repair networks. That field repair stations exist to offer regional

customer service provides the manufacturer no relief.

With factory liability in mind, the following disclaimer is included at Colt's request:

"The content of this book reflects the writer's experience and is not necessarily the recommendation of

Colt. Colt, therefore, shall not be liable for the content of this book nor for any mishap claimed to result

from the use of this published material. Colt instructions for users are contained solely in its manuals,

which are available free from its factory, (P.O. Box 1868, Hartford, Conneticut 06102)."

The Colt logo, Rampant Colt, Serpentine Colt, and Rampant Colt in a circle, used in this publication to

identify Colt products, are the registered trademarks of Colt Industries, Inc.

The Colt D.A. Revolvers, Section I 4

Contents, Section I Page

Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 6

Colt's Double Action Revolvers, A Brief History .................................................................................... 7

Early to Late J, V, and AA Models ........................................................................................................10

About Gunsmithing Colt's J, V, and AA Revolvers ................................................................................12

J/V/AA Model Action Safety Features...................................................................................................14

Gunsmith's Safety Rules........................................................................................................................15

Disassembly Prechecks .........................................................................................................................18 Disassembly .........................................................................................................................................19

Removing Resistant or Stuck Screws .....................................................................................................22

Remove Crane/Cylinder Assembly ........................................................................................................23

About J, V, and AA Model Frame Pins ..................................................................................................31

Disassemble Crane/Cylinder Assembly .................................................................................................32

Detail Cleaning Before Inspection .........................................................................................................33

Lead Fouling.........................................................................................................................................34

Frame/Sideplate/Barrel Inspection .........................................................................................................36

Damaged Frames ..................................................................................................................................37

About Damaged Cylinders ....................................................................................................................39

Damaged Forcing Cones .......................................................................................................................40 Damaged Barrels ..................................................................................................................................41

Begin Parts Checkout & Reassembly .....................................................................................................42

Critical Parts .........................................................................................................................................44

Inspect Crane Lock Assembly ...............................................................................................................45

Check Crane/Frame Fit .........................................................................................................................46

About Crane Alignment ........................................................................................................................47

About Cylinder Service Procedures .......................................................................................................48

Check Cylinder Bolt Slots .....................................................................................................................49

Check Ejector/Ratchet/Stem ..................................................................................................................50

Ejector Sideplay ....................................................................................................................................51

Cylinder Reassembly ............................................................................................................................55 About Headspace, Endplay, & Barrel Clearance ....................................................................................56

Headspace and Clearance Table ............................................................................................................57

Three-Way Headspace/Endplay/Gap Relationship .................................................................................59

Gauge Check Headspace .......................................................................................................................60

Check Barrel/Cylinder Clearance ..........................................................................................................61

About Cylinder Endplay........................................................................................................................61

Check J/V/AA Cylinder Bolt .................................................................................................................62

Check Bolt Spring .................................................................................................................................64

Check Trigger Point/Bolt Function ........................................................................................................65

J, V, and AA Triggers ...........................................................................................................................67

Set Trigger Adjusting Screw .................................................................................................................72

Install Trigger Return Spring .................................................................................................................73 J, V, and AA Hammers .........................................................................................................................74

J/V/AA Double Action Struts ................................................................................................................77


Hammer-Trigger Prechecks ...................................................................................................................79

Check Safety Connector & Hand Spring Assembly ................................................................................80

Inspect Cylinder Hand...........................................................................................................................81

Check Cylinder Stop Lug ......................................................................................................................83

Check SA/DA Function ........................................................................................................................87

Test Single and Double Action Trigger Pull...........................................................................................88

About J/V/AA Mainsprings & Trigger Return Springs ...........................................................................89

About Mainsprings Adjustments ...........................................................................................................89

Test Fire After Safety & Function Checks .............................................................................................90 Safety and Common Sense ....................................................................................................................92

Troubleshooting Guide..........................................................................................................................95

Factory Lubrication Specifications ...................................................................................................... 103

Contents, Section II, Shopwork Page

Section II ............................................................................................................................................ 104

Sights and Sight Work ........................................................................................................................ 106

Replace Trigger/Hammer Frame Pivot Pins ......................................................................................... 111

About Firing Pin & Recoil Plate Replacement ..................................................................................... 112

Remove/Install Recoil Plate ................................................................................................................ 113 Align/Straighten Crane........................................................................................................................ 116

Replace Cylinder Bolt ......................................................................................................................... 118

Why Triggers are Replace ................................................................................................................... 119

Why Hammers are Replaced ............................................................................................................... 120

About Cocking Notch Engagement Ledges & Angles .......................................................................... 120

Sear/Cocking Notch Engagement ........................................................................................................ 121

Why Hammer/Safety Connectors Are Replaced ................................................................................... 122

About Worn Hands ............................................................................................................................. 123

Replace Cylinder Hand ....................................................................................................................... 124

About "Unequal" Ratchet Lugs ........................................................................................................... 125

Why Cylinder Collars are Stretched..................................................................................................... 126 Stretch Cylinder Collar ....................................................................................................................... 127

Why Cylinder/Ratchet Assemblies are Replaced .................................................................................. 128

Set Cylinder Headspace ...................................................................................................................... 129

Set New Ratchet Length (Set Endplay) ................................................................................................ 130

Why Barrels are Replaced ................................................................................................................... 131

Remove Barrel .................................................................................................................................... 132

Barrel Requalification or Set-Back ...................................................................................................... 133

Final Check Barrel Fit & Torque Barrel ............................................................................................... 135

About J, V, and AA Model Forcing Cones........................................................................................... 136

Set Barrel Clearance ........................................................................................................................... 137

Cut and Gauge Forcing Cone .............................................................................................................. 138

Recut Barrel Crown ............................................................................................................................ 139 Plug Gauge/Range Rod Check ............................................................................................................ 140

Tuning Factors in J/V/AA Match Actions ............................................................................................ 141

More About Action Drag .................................................................................................................... 142

Test Firing 6x6 for Match Accuracy .................................................................................................... 144

Parts Diagrams.................................................................................................................................... 145


INTRODUCTION

The Colt Double Action Revolvers- A Shop Manual, Volume II. is one of three VSP shop manuals

written by Jerry Kuhnhausen on Colt's revolvers, and the second in the Colt revolver series to be released.

Volume II covers J, V, and AA model revolvers in great detail. Being basically similar, revolvers built on

the Mark III (J frame) and the later V and AA model variations, group quite naturally. Earlier D, E, and I

frame revolvers are of an entirely different design, form their own separate group, and are fully discussed

in Volume I. Colt's single action revolvers comprise a third group, and are the subject of another manual.

This book was reprinted from a series of highly detailed, loose-leaf gunsmith training manuals written by

gunsmith Jerry Kuhnhausen for the original purpose of training and shop use by his personnel. See about author, inside rear cover. For easy reference, volume II has been assembled in the same basic format as

volume I and, likewise, retains the author's original photographs, illustrations, and instructions.

Additional supplemental artwork, drawings, and data have been supplied by courtesy of Colt Industries,

Firearms Division.

Because Colt's J, V, and AA revolvers are similar, Volume II combines them. However, the author

strongly points out that, even though the original J model frames and actions are directly related to the

later V and AA frames/actions, the parts that were design updated for operation in the later short action V

and AA models were (and still are) factory intended for use only in those models. The parts in question

have been updated dimensionally, (including sear angle changes, etc.) and are manufactured from new, or

different, materials. The text clearly details the important differences.

Although, for the most part, Kuhnhausen's manuals were originally assembled with shop training in mind, they soon became exceptionally valuable as easy gunsmithing references when questions came up at the

bench, as they inevitably do. These informative shop manuals are presented in a step by step sequence,

just as you would normally go through fitting or refitting work at the bench.

The Colt Double Action Revolvers. A Shop Manual. Volume II- is a practical repair manual, and a

package of ready information. The first section covers disassembly, inspection, basic checks, parts

identification, and interior servicing. It then goes on with reassembly, fitting and refitting details. A

helpful troubleshooting guide is included. J, V, and AA model differences are discussed and illustrated

throughout. Safety and common sense are continually stressed.

The heavily detailed second section contains the most often requested shop work, and discusses the fine

points of advanced bench and shop gunsmithing techniques. In this section, the author devotes more

attention to the details of frame, barrel, crane, and cylinder work. Forcing cone work, and the special tools needed to do it, are covered as well. Parts diagrams for current, intermediate, and early models are

included at the back of the manual.

This manual covers nearly everything the gunsmith or armourer needs to know about repairing and

refitting Colt's J, V, and AA model double action revolvers. It is the only complete revolversmithing work

we have ever seen on these models.

-The Editors


Colt's double action revolvers- a brief history

The events of firearms development history tell us that the swing-out cylinder double action revolver was

a very difficult item to invent- difficult, that is, for just about everybody except the design department at

Colt Firearms.

A double action revolver with a cylinder that would swing out for loading and unloading was largely a

science fiction writer's dream in 1876. At that time, inventors and arms firms in Europe were working

mostly on single action swing- out cylinder ideas. Only a few advanced arms designers were toying with

concepts that might actually lead to production swing-out cylinder double action revolvers. But, as it

turned out, most of those concepts involved cumbersome modifications of existing single action revolvers.

Meanwhile in the U.S., even Winchester was actively experimenting with swing- out cylinder D.A.

revolver designs. But, by 1880, the sum of all developmental efforts in both the U.S. and Europe had

amounted to very little. In today's language, the various projects probably ran out of their respective R&D

budgets, and were finally dropped, favouring other, more profitable product ideas.

This interesting situation left the entire job of inventing a marketable, swing-out cylinder, double action

revolver to the Colt Firearms Company. And that's exactly what they did.

The first Colt principle patents were issued sometime in December 1881.

The first prototype patent was assigned to Colt's Firearms Co., in August 1884.

Colt's first production double action, swing-out cylinder revolver was the Model of 1889. Colt designated

this revolver the Model of 1889, Navy.

The 1892, 94, 95, 96, 1901, and 1903 models followed. Basically, all of these revolvers were

improvements on the original Ml889. Even the rare USMC Model of 1905 was essentially a Model 1889

Navy, with improvements.

These early double action revolvers were the basic design forerunners of Colt's later D.A. revolvers such

as the large frame New service (1898), Shooting Master, etc., and Colt's medium frame E models such as

the Army Special, Official Police, Officer's Model Target, and Officer's Model Match. The Army Special

model (introduced in 1908) standardized medium frame hand and sideplate position on the left side of the

frame. This, in turn, standardized medium frame cylinder rotation in the clockwise direction. Earlier

medium frame models had opposite rotation. The original Trooper model, the .357 Magnum model, and,

lastly, the Python, all evolved from the original E model, but were factory designated as I frame models.

Colt's smaller D frame revolvers also evolved directly from an ancestor called the New Pocket Model .32 of 1893. Interestingly enough, manufacturing changes in these revolvers had actually standardized

clockwise cylinder rotation in the small frames in 1903, well before standardization in the medium E type

frames.


Incidentally, the "D"-frame designation wasn't used by the factory until 1947. However, no one I've

talked to at Colt seems to remember just when the "E" model designation was assigned.

In 1905, the positive lock system was introduced across the then existing Colt double action line. This

addition created the Pocket Positive .32 and the Police Positive in both .32 and .38 calibres. These

revolvers were followed by the Police Positive Special (.38 special, with a 1 5/8" cylinder), and later by

the Detective Special, Banker's Special, Cobra (the first aluminium D frame), Air Crewman, Courier,

Agent, and Border Patrol models. The last D frame variation was the Diamondback model, introduced in

1966. The first medium frame to incorporate the positive locking system was the Army Special (1908).

Colt introduced the Mark III double actions, or Model J Series revolvers, in 1969. Essentially, the J design was developed for manufacture primarily on automated factory machinery. This modern approach

minimized the requirement for extensive hand fitting of internal action parts, and, in turn, greatly

simplified final assembly. The J model production revolver featured a forged and machined heavy steel

frame, cylinder, and barrel- and yet was competitively priced against other manufacturers' cast frame

revolvers.

Model J design features included: a safety transfer bar (or hammer/safety connector) type action, a heavy

recessed-head type cylinder, a heavy frame and barrel, a larger cylinder bolt, a pinned/crimped recoil

plate, an inertial firing pin, a coil main spring, a simplified D.A. hammer strut, and a vastly simplified

hand and ratchet. The Model V (a short action J Model variation) followed in 1984. The V model was, in

turn, replaced in 1986 by the stainless steel AA model, or King Cobra, and its progeny. As I see it, the

King Cobra is a superb, heavy duty, sporting and law enforcement service revolver. The V and AA models were the first J model variants to feature investment cast hammers and triggers.

A chronology of Colt double action revolvers and important improvements:

1877 -Colt Lightning Model, Colt's first double action

1878 -Colt D.A. Frontier Model

1881 -D.A. revolver swing-out cylinder patents

1884 -Prototype model patented

1889 -New D.A. Navy Model

1892 -D.A. cylinder bolt slot cuts added

1892, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1901, 1903 Army and Navy Model updates

1893 -New Pocket Model .32 1896 -New Police Model .32 1898 -New Service Model/Shooting Master

1903 -New Pocket Model, cylinder revolution clockwise

1904 -Officer's Model

1905 -USMC Model (updated variation of the 1889 Navy) 1905 -Introduction of positive lock system

1905 -Improved New Service Model

1905 -Pocket Positive Model

1905 -Police Positive .32 and .38

1908 -Clockwise rotation standardized, medium frames


1908 -Army Special Model

1908 -Police Positive Special (.38 Spl., and 1 5/8" cylinder)

1909 -Large frame Ml909 Army, Navy, USMC models

1910 -Police Positive .22 Target model

1917 -Large frame M1917 U.S. Army, .45 ACP

1921 -Camp Perry Model

1927 -Official Police Model

1927 -Detective Special Model

1928 -Banker's Special Model 1930 -Official Police .22 Model

1930 -Officer's Model Target

1933 -Pequano Model (export)

1942 -Commando Model (World War II)

1949 -Officer's Model Special Target

1950 -Cobra L.W. aluminium frame

1951 -Aircrewman (experimental series)

1952 -Officer's Model Match

1952 -Border Patrol Model

1953 -Courier Model

1953 -.357 Magnum Model 1954 -Marshal Model

1954 -Trooper (original Trooper Model)

1955 -Python Model 1962 -Agent Model

1966 -Diamondback Model

1969 -Mark III (J Series) Official Police, Trooper, Lawman III, etc.

1969 -Mark III Officer's Model Match

1977 -Viper Model

1984 -Mark V, Trooper V Model, Peacekeeper, etc.

1986 -AA, Ki ng Cobra Model

-Colt King Cobra product photo courtesy Colt Industries, Firearms Division

The Colt logo is a registered trademark of Colt Firearms


Figure A- Illustration shows most common, early to late, Colt J, V, and AA models. Other less well

known model variations are the Official Police III, Metropolitan III, Officers' Match III, Lawman V, and

Peacekeeper Models.- Illustrations, courtesy Colt Firearms Division. The Colt logo, Rampant Colt,

Rampant

Colt in a circle, and Serpentine Colt used throughout this publication to identify Colt products, are the

registered trademarks of Colt Industries Inc.


Colt's Lawman MK III

MARK III LAWMAN SPECIFICATIONS

Calibre Barrel

Lgth.

Overall

Lgth.

Weight

(Oz.)

Sights Trigger Hammer Stocks Finish Cylinder

Capacity

.357

Magnum

4"

heavy

barrel

With

service

stocks:

9.25 With

target

stocks: 9

3/8"

36 oz. Fixed quick-

draw, ramp-

style front-sight

with 1/8" wide

blade. Fixed

open rear sight

notch .136".

Wide

target

trigger;

smooth or

serrated

service

trigger.

Wide

checkered

spur on target

hammer.

Narrow

serrated spur

on service

hammer.

Target is case

hardened

finish. Service

is metallic

finish.

Service stocks:

Relief checkered

genuine walnut

(standard). Target

stocks: Target

grip

configuration,

relief checkered

genuine walnut

(optional).

Colt

blue.

Nickel.

6 shot

counter-

bored.

BALLISTICS PERFORMANCE

CARTRIDGES - .357 MAGNUM

BULLET

VELOCITY- FEET PER

SECOND

ENERGY- FOOT

POUNDS

MID -RANGE

TRAJECTORY

TEST BARREL

LGTH.

Wgt.-

Grs. Style Muzzle 50Yds. 100Yds. Muzzle

50

Yds.

100

Yds. 50 Yds. 100 Yds.

158 Soft Point 1550 1380 1230 845 665 530 0.5" 2.5" 8 3/8"

158 Metal

Point 1410 1240 1120 695 540 440 0.6" 2.8" 8 3/8"

158 Lead 1410 1240 1120 695 540 440 0.6" 2.8" 8 3/8"

Figure B- An early Colt Lawman Mark III specification sheet. As with all Mark III's, this extra heavy

barrel model is now out of production. Mark Ill's and V's were replaced by the later AA Model.-

Specifications Courtesy Colt Firearms


About gunsmithing Colt's J, V, and AA Model revolvers-

Colt has issued very little factory service data or related gunsmithing information on their J, V, and AA

series revolvers other than brief information sheets intended primarily for use by law enforcement agency

armourers, which contain mostly headspace, trigger pull, and firing pin protrusion specifications. It's very

likely that this is partly attributable to the fact that J/V/AA model repairs aren't often needed. And, to

some extent, this is probably a carryover from earlier days when armourers and revolversmiths knew all

about the workings of Colt's double action revolvers, and shop or service manuals just didn't seem

necessary.

From a field service viewpoint, Colt's J, V, and AA revolver models are basically straightforward and mechanically uncomplicated. This point becomes particularly evident when the J/V/AA action is closely

compared with revolver actions that were designed near the beginning of the century, including Colt's D,

E, and I model actions and S&W's J, K, L, and N frame actions.

In addition to being much simpler, J, V, and AA model action function is considerably different- i.e., a

transfer bar (literally, a hammer/safety connector- disconnector) is used instead of the earlier style safety

hammer block. With this mechanism, the hammer does not, and need not, rebound. Once the transfer bar

has withdrawn, the hammer's firing pin engagement surface is held well clear of the frame's inertial firing

pin by the hammer's upper safety extension which rests safely against the frame, and well above the

inertial firing pin. Also, J/V/AA hands are fit for width (which determines ratchet rotation). Triggers and

hammers are "self-bossed" surrounding their frame pin holes and feature additional raised

centering/bearing surfaces at midpoint. Correspondingly, and simpler, trigger and hammer pivot pins in the frame aren't bossed. Trigger travel is controlled by simple adjustment of the trigger adjusting set

screw.

Not too many years ago, limited availability and prohibitive cost of automated precision machining

equipment would have made affordable production of the J/V/AA design virtually impossible. With early

manufacturing techniques, building and heat treating large leaf and standard coil gun springs wasn't much

of a problem. But, uniform, reliable specialty gun springs (i.e., small non- standard special purpose coil

springs, sometimes made with double or single end extensions, special bends, special end loops, arms,

etc.) were harder to make- and expensive. This is the main reason that most earlier actions were designed

around one large leaf spring and two or three standard coil springs. With current manufacturing

technology, special purpose springs are easily mass produced on automated machines.

From the beginning of production, J model revolvers have used sintered metal hammers, triggers, struts, and bolts. With the V/AA model short action design update, triggers and hammer bodies were redesigned

and manufactured from investment castings. Sintered cylinder bolts and double action struts have

remained standard with investment cast and sintered triggers and hammers. With both styles of triggers

and hammers, surface (outer case) hardening typically runs about .008" to .010" deep, with point

hardening usually a bit deeper. With hardening depth and underlayer particle bonding in mind, the

surfaces of sintered J parts should not be further polished or adjusted beyond original factory fitting,

except as discussed in this manual. Subject to remaining surface and point hardening depth, investment

cast V and AA parts may be further dressed and/or fine tuned. See cautions and limitations in appropriate

sections.

As with all double action revolvers, and the J/V/AA series is no exception, the best way to familiarize

yourself with action function is through careful observation of both correct and incorrect operation of the

internal action parts. Also see figures C and S1.


Figure C- Shows left and right views of a cutaway stainless steel King Cobra model revolver. Cutaways

are particularly valuable in revolversmith training, and can be an extremely useful tool in general action

work and in solving parts related problems. Correct parts interactions and correct internal action function

can be visually demonstrated in a cutaway revolver. Also, individual part malfunctions and incorrect parts

interactions can be easily simulated and graphically shown by simply substituting a misfit, worn, altered,

or damaged part. Nearly all mechanical action function problems can be explained by closely comparing

correct and incorrect operation of the parts involved.


Figure S1- Cutaway and illustration show basic action safety features used throughout J/V/AA

production. At #1, above, the hammer is cocked and ready to fire. The half-sectional illustration at #2 (Courtesy, Colt Firearms Division) shows the trigger returned to forward position, under positive pressure

of the trigger return spring. The trigger has, in turn, lowered the hammer/safety connector. The hammer's

upper safety extension is at rest against the frame, keeping the lower portion of the hammer well clear of

the frame's inertial firing pin.

J/V/AA models in serviceable condition can be fired only when the trigger is squeezed and the S.A. sear

releases the hammer, or when the trigger is pulled all the way through in D.A. mode. In either case, if the

trigger isn't held at the hammer release point until the hammer strikes the elevated hammer/safety

connector (transferring hammer energy to the inertial firing pin) the revolver cannot fire. The

hammer/safety connector quickly lowers as the trigger is released. This two-way safety function makes

the safety connector operate as a disconnector, as well. The hammer can be safely S.A. de-cocked by

carefully holding the spur and easing the hammer forward as the trigger is squeezed to separate the S.A.

sear. The trigger is then released, allowing it to return forward and drop the hammer/safety connector. The hammer is then carefully returned to rest position against the frame. Because trigger and safety

connector return energy is stored in the trigger return spring- it, too, is an important working part of the

J/V/AA safety system. For this reason, always check for altered, damaged, and/or substituted return

springs.

To be doubly safe in the field, always load one round less than a full cylinder. Then, be 100% sure the

empty chamber is under the hammer. This conservative habit dates back to frontier single action days-

and helps demonstrate that the best safety feature is a careful owner. This is true, without exception, even

though no firearm of any style or brand has ever been known to point or function on its own. It's a simple

matter of cause and effect. Somebody has to do the causing...


REALLY NOW, WERE YOU GOING TO SKIP THIS PAGE?

A Gunsmith's Safety Rules- Or how to stay out of trouble, and out of court, possibly, at the same time.

1. NEVER alter, or remove, any safety feature from any gun- EVER. If the owner insists- let him do it, then it's strictly his liability- and not yours.

2. DON'T work on any gun with a safety part removed- unless the work includes correct reinstallation of the safety.

3. FOR your protection- Always keep records of work done. 4. IF you begin work on a gun that you determine is not reliably repairable (or even just inspect a

gun not in good working order)- even if it's for a best friend (or for free)- always write a shop ticket, and: "WARNING- NOT SAFE TO FIRE" on the shop ticket.

5. DON'T do patch-job repairs- Do it right, or skip it. 6. DON'T work for people who insist on substandard work- These are the ones who will want it

redone later (and for nothing) and will probably sue you for any mishap.

7. NEVER trust anybody- THAT GUN IS ALWAYS LOADED! 8. NEVER hand (or take) a gun- unless you have personally checked its chamber(s). 9. NEVER point any gun- except at a target. 10. NEVER believe what someone says about the condition of any gun- until you have fully

inspected it yourself.

11. NO dry firing without spent shells, or snap caps- no matter WHO says it's O.K! 12. NEVER forget to check for barrel obstructions or bulges- Just do it- it's only common sense. 13. FOLLOW these safety rules- After all, the life you save may be your own. 14. THINK it through first- It always saves time later.

If you violate these simple rules- You will, sooner or later, pay the price for it.


Additional Factory Safety Warnings-

Colt has suggested the following supplemental safety cautions/warnings for revolversmiths and

gunsmiths. These warnings apply to all who handle and/or work with firearms:

1. Ensure that the revolver is not loaded before stripping, cleaning, or inspecting- so that the revolver will not fire. (Note: also see figure 1.)

2. Do not permit live ammunition in or near the work area. 3. Wear safety glasses at all times in case you lose control of some spring loaded component which

could injure your eyes.

4. Take precautions when handling cleaning fluids and lubricants. If in doubt, seek advice from the manufacturers of these products.

5. Wear eye and ear protection when shooting/test firing to reduce the risk of cumulative, long term, hearing loss and/or eye injury.

6. Take precautions to avoid contamination by accumulations of toxic gas fumes or lead dust where firearms are used indoors or within a confined space (such as your indoor range).

It is also suggested that revolversmiths, gunsmiths, and all others who own, use, or handle Colt firearms,

read appropriate model user safety and instruction manuals. Colt Safety and Instruction Manuals for users

are available free from Colt Firearms Division, P.O. Box 1868, Hartford, CT 06102. When ordering

manuals, specify the exact firearm model.

See example below:


The above half sectional drawing provides a before disassembly preview of a J/V/AA type revolver action

with sideplate removed. Relative internal positions of the hand, hand spring, bolt, bolt spring, latch pin,

mainspring and guide, hammer/safety connector, ejector spring, trigger return spring, and double action

strut are easily located at a glance.

Visualizing action details and internal parts locations is always helpful when prechecking function in any

revolver.

Figure S1- Half-Sectional Illustration above previews basic J/V/AA model frame, cylinder, crane, and

action parts details. -Illustration Courtesy Colt Firearms Division


BEFORE DISASSEMBLY-

Don't begin disassembly of a revolver brought in for servicing or repair before you have gained a general

idea of what might be right or wrong with it, and what work may be needed. Experienced armourers and

gunsmiths always take the necessary few minutes to precheck revolvers, usually following a list much

like the one below. Before the sideplate is removed, a detailed precheck sequence helps focus on the

action area, or part, that may be causing a problem. A few minutes taken in the beginning saves a lot of

time later.

Something to watch for is the little chip, broken-off corner, or piece of hard grit that has lodged

somewhere inside and is creating problems. In a hurry, you might drop out a small particle such as this as you remove the sideplate, missing where it came from and possible damage it may have caused. In some

cases, these small particles have been found to be sharp fragments or corners broken off sears or hammer

engagement ledges. Of course, the broken part must be replaced. Any damage caused by contact with the

fragment should be found and corrected. For these reasons, it's not a bad idea to take a few minutes to

read through the following precheck list:

Before Disassembly Pre Check List:

1. Move cylinder latch- sticky? moves OK? latch spring OK? 2. Check cylinder- open and close OK? rough? smooth? 3. Spin cylinder- sticky? OK? is the ejector rod straight? 4. Twist ejector rod- threads loose? tight? 5. Push ejector rod- drags? sticks? smooth? rod returns OK? 6. Examine ejector star, pins, and ratchet- sideplay on pins? OK? 7. Check cylinder front- barrel hits? nicks? other? OK? 8. Check cylinder fit- endplay OK? bolt lock-up OK? no backroll? 9. Check cylinder bolt- pickup and drop OK? 10. With cylinder open, check feel of single and double action- OK? 11. Close cylinder, repeat S.A. & D.A. check- stiffer? or about the same? 12. Slow and fast D.A. check- does cylinder bolt lock before hammer falls? 13. Feel mainspring- seem weak? OK? any noticeable hand/cylinder bind? 14. Check hammer push-off, from rear and both sides- OK? 15. Check trigger pull- as specified for J/V/AA models? 16. Safety connector check- is it installed? drags? functions OK? 17. Check barrel fit in frame- loose? tight? at 12:00 O'clock? 18. Inspect forcing cone, hand, recoil plate, and firing pin extension- OK? 19. Inspect bore- obstructed? bulged? scored? visible wear? rust? OK? 20. Inspect muzzle crown- nicked? dented? recut? OK? 21. Check trigger, hammer- trigger return OK? hammer extension OK? 22. Note sideplate condition- removed before? played with? screws OK? 23. Check sights- modified? loose? are pins and adjusting screws OK? 24. Note general appearance- worn? scratched? dents? rusty? like new?

Likely as not, it will take you the better part of a half hour the first time you go through the above list

seriously, with a revolver in hand- but make it a habit, anyway. Make prechecking second nature just like

it is with all good revolversmiths. Later on, you'll do it in minutes.


Begin Disassembly

Always start with a clean bench. Get

rid of any sharp chips that may be left

over from earlier drilling, milling, or

filing. Carefully remove any polishing

grit or other surface damaging

material. Customers, and even friends,

become rightfully irate when scratches

accompany repair work. That you didn't charge for the scratches makes

very little difference. Best bench

covers for finish protection are:

reversed leather, felt, or 3/16" outdoor

carpet. All are equally useful, but only

to the extent that the working surface

is kept 100% clean. As you

disassemble, box all parts with their

original frames: otherwise, mated and

specially fit action parts can be mixed

up, and screws, pins, and springs misplaced.

Warning : Before beginning work- or

moving the hammer or trigger, always

confirm unloaded status. Don't work

on a revolver unless daylight is visible

through all six chambers. The hazard

created by a crimped .32 revolver or

.380 auto round pushed part way into

a chamber is very real. If a cylinder

like this was dipped into a hot bluing

tank, the accident potential could be certain. Gunsmiths can miss this sort

of thing by just not expecting to see it.

Remove Grip [Stock] Screw

If not well ground and fit, frozen grip

screw threads can cause a screwdriver

blade to roll out and damage the slot.

See figures 2 and 3. Rusty threads

may cause the stock screw nut to spin

inside the grip. Pre-lubrication helps.

Figure 1- The illustration shows the cylinder open- and the

revolver's unloaded status being positively verified. This basic

step is always first in firearms handling and revolversmithing.

Viewing a closed cylinder from the side is as unreliable as

taking someone's word that the revolver is unloaded. Never

rely on a side view.

Figure 2- Shows a Colt wraparound style target grip. The stock

screw nut is located in the right panel. A stuck screw can twist the nut loose inside the grip panel. A drop of penetrating oil

can help loosen stuck threads. Both std. service and target style

grip screws are shown below. Pre-grind screwdriver blades to

fit screw slots.


Figure 3- Shows a screwdriver tip being hollow ground to

correct slot fit on a bench grinder using an MMC blade fixture.

This excellent and handy fixture easily produces precision,

parallel faced blades and perfectly square tips. This is a

necessary revolversmithing step. Some screw slots won't give

you a second chance.

Figure 4- Shows the right grip being removed by correctly

pushing it off the frame with the grip screw. A frozen grip

screw can be drilled free of a spun stock nut. A new stock nut

can be retained by gluing it in place with Acraglas or Microbed bedding compound, when overall condition makes wood stocks

worth saving.

Remove Grips

J/V and AA grip screws have been

made in 3 basic styles- service: small

head/wide slot, target: large head/thin

slot, and rubber grip style with wide

heads and wide slots.

1. Avoid screw slot damage by always grinding screwdriver

blades to full slot fit. Inexpensive and easy to use grinding fixtures

are made for this purpose. See fig.

3.

2. Dress screwdriver blade edges (width) as required to prevent grip

finish damage.

3. Then, while holding firm down pressure, loosen the grip screw

and twist it out.

4. When resistant, first pre- lube exposed threads with a thin penetrating oil, then rap the

handle of the screwdriver sharply

before rotating.

5. Don't attempt to pry grips off. Instead, once the grip screw is

loose, push it back in with the

screwdriver tip. This pushes the

grip off the frame on the back

side, and without marking.

Remove the opposite grip from

the inside.

Frozen Grip Screws

Sometimes, grip screws are frozen or

rusted to the extent that they spin the

stock nut inside the grip. If wood grips

are to be salvaged, there is only one

workable remedy:

1. Carefully center punch the nut and drill out the frozen screw

threads. Prevent spin by holding

and backing up the grip screw

head with a Magnatip screwdriver

bit chucked in a drill press vice. This method can save otherwise

serviceable wood grips.

2. After removing the screw, push the opposite grip off with a 1/16"

punch.


Remove Crane Lock Screw

As with Colt's D/E/I models, J/V/AA

crane lock screws are counterbored

inside to accommodate the crane lock

detent plunger and spring. For this

reason, the screw slot on the outside of

the lock screw is a bit shallow.

Minimum slot depth, plus the added

possibility of marring the frame, makes screwdriver fit more important

than with other standard frame screws.

J/V/AA and late style D/E/I crane lock

screw thread dia. is the same (.250"-

40) fine thread size. Because there are

slight counterbore depth and body

length differences, crane lock screws

should not be mixed up. As a rule, if

screwdriver fit is correct, these screws

will come out with very little

resistance. But if threads are damaged, rusty, or galled, they will not.

Screwdrivers roll out, slots damage,

and nickel plated screws look the

worse.

With crane lock screws, a useful rule

is: if the threads are resistant, skip the

impact step and use the drill press or

screwjack method to get the screw out.

See figures 7 & 8.

A Handy Bench Block-

You may get only one chance to remove a stuck screw. A bench

levelling support is needed when using

impact or pressure to loosen threads.

The frame must be held at 90 degrees

to the screwdriver bit, so that the

working force isn't diverted or

weakened. Placing an aluminium

block under the frame can level it,

help prevent blade rollout, and

preserve exterior finish. See figures 6,

7, and 8.

Figure 5- Shows a crane lock screw installed in a stainless steel

AA model King Cobra frame. The inset illustration, below,

shows crane lock assembly detail. The crane lock screw is

counter bored inside to accommodate and center the crane lock

detent plunger's position. The plunger is also counterbored to

receive the detent spring.

Figure 6- Illustration shows a combination bench block and levelling support used to hold frames at 90 to the screwdriver

blade when impact loosening resistive screws, or when using

either the drill press or screwjack method to loosen and remove

frozen screws. Levelling blocks are easily made from

aluminium or nylon.


Figure 7- Shows a frame set up on a drill press to remove a

stuck or resistant screw. The frame is supported on an

aluminium levelling block. A correctly fit hollow ground

Magna-Tip screwdriver blade is chucked in the press and held

in the screw slot with firm down pressure. The screw is then

hand twisted out. Also see Fig. 8.

Figure 8- Shows a bench setup for frozen screw removal, using

a basic screwjack. With enough slot area, this useful tool can remove any screw that can be addressed at 90 and that isn't

rust welded. The top half of this screwjack is from B-Square.

To accommodate a levelling block, the original base was

replaced with a larger plate.

Removing Stuck Screws

Most stuck and/or resistant screws are

cemented in with a mixture of dried

oil varnish and hardened dirt. Very

few will be rusted, cross threaded or

galled. With really tough resistive

screw cases, begin by pre-immersing

the entire revolver (less the grips) in a

thin penetrating oil. Usually, frozen screws will be found to have rusted or

damaged threads. Removal methods

shown in figures 7 and 8 are the only

ways to get the job done with such

screws.

If screw slots are blurred, but enough

of the head remains, re-establish the

slot with an extra narrow cape chisel.

Caution: Don't use heat to loosen

stuck screws. Warming the frame

before immersing it in oil seldom helps. If taken too far, heat treat (and

springs) will be altered and the

exterior finish damaged.

Removing Damaged Screws If the

screw head left behind from some

previous removal attempt is so

damaged that it can't be rotated,

nothing can be done until it is

removed. These are the usual

remedies:

1. Crane lock screws: Allow for frame thread diameter, then

carefully mill a new screwdriver

slot just deep enough to remove

the screw. Afterward, replace the

screw, detent plunger, and spring.

2. Sideplate screws: Level and align the frame. Mill just to the bottom

of the sideplate screw

counterbore. With side plate off,

slot the shank to remove

remainder of screw.

3. J/V/AA sideplate nuts: Cut a slot in the nut. Then, remove it with a

screwdriver.


Remove J/V/AA Crane and

Cylinder Assembly

With the crane in the open position,

rearward travel of the Colt J, V, and

AA model cylinder is limited by the

cylinder stop lug on the outer wall of

the sideplate. When the ejector rod is

unscrewed, only the stop lug retains

the cylinder as it is swung out.

As with the earlier D, E, and I models,

Colt J/V/AA crane and cylinder

assemblies were designed for easy

removal (as a combination) by simply

removing the crane lock screw and

detent and then drawing the whole

crane- cylinder assembly forward, and

off the frame. See figures 9 and 10.

For this reason, Colt's D.A revolver

cylinder flutes are just a bit longer

than those on other revolvers. Although they vary somewhat, flutes

are always just long enough for crane

guide clearance at the front of the

frame and easy cylinder/crane

removal.

1. After the crane lock screw and detent have been removed, hinge

the cylinder open until the crane

stop rests against the frame.

2. Rotate the cylinder to align the closest flute with the raised crane guide at the front of the frame.

3. Then draw the assembled crane and cylinder straight forward and

clear of the frame. See figure 10.

4. If necessary, lift up slightly as the crane stem clears the frame.

5. If the crane stem is resistant, loosen by working in a few drops

of oil before drawing the stem

out.

Figure 9- Shows a Colt King Cobra cylinder and crane hinged

out 90, with the crane stop against the frame. The assembly is

now ready for removal. When the sideplate is in place, J/V/AA design allows the crane and cylinder assembly to be removed

together. Ejector rod threads are factory secured with Locktite

#290.

Figure 10- Shows a bottom view of a cylinder in the open

position. The closest flute is lined up with the frame's raised

crane guide so that both the cylinder and crane stem will clear

the frame as the assembly is pulled forward and out. All J, V,

and AA model cylinder/crane assemblies are removed in the

same way.


Figure 11- Shows a revolver ready for sideplate screw removal.

The screwdriver blade shown below has been hollow ground to

exactly fit the sideplate screw slots. The blade edges have been

trimmed and dulled to prevent damage to the sideplate.

Circular gouges around sideplate screws are both

unprofessional and unsightly.

Figure 12- Shows the correct strike zone for removing snug

Colt revolver sideplates with impact vibration. The grip frame

is rapped sharply to set up the vibration necessary to overcome

the mechanical friction holding the sideplate in position.

Warning: prying sideplates off can flare the edges and/or bend

the plate.

Remove Sideplate Screws

Sideplate screws are found in every

possible condition and tightness.

Screws with heads intact usually

unthread easily. Removing sideplate

screws with blurred or rounded-off

heads and otherwise damaged

screwdriver slots requires an extra

measure of care.

1. Grind screwdrivers to fit before use. See figs. 3 & 11.

2. If a screw is resistant, add oil around the head. Rap the

screwdriver handle and then twist,

applying firm down pressure with

the blade held squarely in the

screw slot.

3. When stuck or frozen, see figures 7 and 8 for removal.

About Sideplate Removal-

Because the removal of any double

action revolver's side plate is a basic

and simple job, it might seem that

very few would be found in a flared,

dented, or otherwise damaged

condition. But that isn't always the

way it is.

Non-professionals still manage to pry

and drop damage side plates with

some regularity. This problem can be

made worse if a damaged plate is reinstalled without edge refitting or

straightening.

When a damaged sideplate is forced

back on, particularly one with an edge

dent, repair becomes a bit more

involved because the original damage

then transfers to the frame. Colt

J/V/AA revolver side plates are

machine fit to moderate tightness, and

must be removed with care. Never pry

on a sideplate. Also, see figures 12

through 15.

The best sideplate removal tools are: a

wooden hammer handle and your left

thumb.


Remove Sideplate

J, V, & AA model sideplates and

frame wells are typically milled to an

approx. .0005" to .002" clearance fit,

or edge gap. Although .004" is the

factory specified maximum allowable

gap at any edge joint, sideplate

clearance in production J/V/AA

models will usually run .002"-.003" or less. A higher impact vibration may be

needed to loosen tight, minimum

clearance sideplates.

Caution: always remove sideplates

over the bench. As the sideplate lifts,

both the latch and spring are released.

The latch spring is easily lost. Also,

once no longer held by the plate, the

hand and safety connector may bounce

out.

1. After the sideplate screws are removed, begin sideplate removal

by holding the frame firmly, with

the sideplate up.

2. Hold the sideplate and latch to prevent bounce, and parts loss.

See figure 13.

3. To prevent damage, keep the revolver over the bench- in the

event the sideplate escapes your

grip, it won't be dented by striking

the floor. 4. Sharply rap the grip frame, using

the wood handle of a 6 or 8 ounce

ball peen, or brass hammer, as

shown in figures 12 and 14. When

the correct impact is used, the

sideplate will easily vibrate up

and out of its frame recess

without edge damage.

5. Forced, damaged or stuck sideplates usually require sharper

impact vibrations to loosen. Being

harder than wood, a plastic screwdriver handle will do the

job.

Figure 13- Shows sideplate ready for removal. Light thumb

backpressure keeps the sideplate and latch from bouncing off; helps to prevent frame edge nicks and sideplate drop damage;

and keeps the hand and safety connector from springing out as

the plate comes off. Masking tape can be used to retain the

mainspring seat.

Figure 14- Shows a frame being held in the "latch retained"

position. A wooden hammer handle is used to impact loosen

the sideplate. The wood handle creates a softer vibration,

which helps minimize edge damage as a snug sideplate springs

free. Use only enough thumb pressure to keep the plate against

the frame.


Figure 15- Shows the latch and latch spring removed from the

sideplate. When the sideplate has been lifted clear of the latch

pin extension, the sideplate's top tab can be drawn clear of the

upper frame joint and frame tab slot, as shown. The latch

dovetail has been factory adjusted to correct sideplate fit and

must be kept with it.

Figure 16- Shows King Cobra internal parts, after sideplate

removal. Basic J/V/AA model action parts such as the latch,

hand, and safety connector may appear to be interchangeable- but they are not. For correct reassembly, all parts (particularly

fit and mated parts) must be kept with their parent frames and

cylinders.

Remove Sideplate, Continued

After the sideplate is loose:

1. Remove the latch and latch spring. See figure 15.

2. Lift the sideplate, bottom first, until the front joint is above the

frame and the top clears the latch

pin extension. 3. If the sideplate came off hard,

inspect for edge nicks, dents,

and/or frame damage.

4. Precheck inside the sideplate for drag marks caused by hand, pivot

pins, or other parts, and possible

high spots inside the sideplate

itself.

Remove Safety Connector, Hand,

and Latch Pin

Remove the hand, pivot pin, and safety connector/hand spring

assembly. The latch pin may be

removed at this time. Place all in parts

box.

Common Sense About Parts-

A department hired a jiffy, low cost

rebluing outfit to refinish 12 service

revolvers. On return, it was found that

action parts were mixed up. They had

probably just piled everything together

during disassembly. What's really sad about all this is that it only takes a half

minute to keep the original parts

together. When parts are lost, or

mixed up, you'll spend a lot more time

than that. What if both the hands and

the cylinders were scrambled in the

above service revolvers? We know

that, once fit, hands work correctly

only with the right ratchet, and that

cylinders are fit only to a given frame.

The possible combinations are: 12

hands x 12 ratchets and cylinders x 12 frames. As you can see, this adds up to

a lot of possibilities, and a bunch of

wasted time.


Remove J/V/AA Mainspring

Although the later V and AA model

mainspring guides run approx. 1 1/8"

longer than the original J type, they

are removed in exactly the same way.

See figures 17 and 18.

V and AA model mainsprings are

easily identified because they are more

than twice as long as the J mainspring. The longer guide and spring updates

were a part of the trigger and hammer

design changes introduced with the

production of the V model revolver in

1984. Colt's new V model variation

offered quicker action lock timing and

smoother D.A. function.

Remove mainspring assembly as

follows:

1. Single action cock the hammer and engage the sear.

2. Then, locate the retaining pin hole in the mainspring guide. The pin

hole will appear just below the

mainspring seat. See figure 17.

3. Insert a retaining pin (a paperclip, map tack, or small diameter pin)

into the pin hole, as shown in

figure 18.

4. Then, slowly uncock the hammer. The mainspring, at this point, will

be compressed against the spring seat and held there by the

retaining pin. The assembly is

now short enough to remove.

5. Remove the mainspring assembly by working the mainspring seat

up and out of its two slots in the

frame.

6. Unless trigger pull wasn't within factory specification, or a

problem was visible with the

mainspring, spring guide, or seat,

leave the assembly together for later checkout during

reinstallation.

Figure 17- Shows an AA model hammer in the cocked

position. With mainspring compressed, the mainspring guide

extends below the mainspring seat, exposing the guide's

mainspring retaining pin hole. Original J and later V/AA type

guides are shown at right. The AA guide is the same as the V

guide except for plating.

Figure 18- Shows a J model revolver with compressed

mainspring and mainspring seat retained by a small paper clip inserted into the guide's retaining pin hole, and releasing the

hammer. A dulled map tack works equally well as a retaining

tool. A retained V/AA type mainspring assembly is also

shown, at right.


Figure 19- Shows an AA model action after the mainspring has

been taken out. The trigger is held back for hammer removal.

This position takes pressure off the hammer, provides hammer

toe clearance, and allows the hammer to be lifted easily straight

up and off the pivot pin. All J/V/AA hammers remove in this

way.

Figure 20- Shows a close view of an AA model trigger, trigger

return spring, and safety connector pivot pin, after the hammer

has been taken out. The trigger return spring arm is lifted and

disconnected from the groove on the right side of the safety

connector pivot pin before the trigger is removed, as shown

above.

Remove Hammer

After the mainspring/guide assembly

has been removed, the hammer can be

taken out.

1. Provide hammer clearance by pulling the trigger back and

holding the adjusting screw

against the frame. 2. Rotate the hammer until the

cocking notch is below the single

action sear. Then, lift the hammer

up and off the frame pin. See

figure 19.

Remove Trigger

The trigger is removed after the

hammer, as follows:

1. Lift the forward arm of the trigger return spring by pulling the

trigger part way back. See figure 20.

2. Hold the trigger back far enough to place an aluminium or brass

spring wedge under the elevated

forward arm of the trigger return

spring.

3. Then release the trigger. The trigger return spring arm is now

disconnected from the safety

connector pivot pin.

4. Draw out the safety connector pivot pin by hand.

5. Then lift the trigger straight up and off the pin.

Parts note: J type triggers and

hammers must be used only with J

type triggers or hammers in good,

serviceable condition; .22 cal. J

hammers are used only with J triggers

in J rimfire models. V and AA

hammer and trigger sear angles and

dimensions differ from the original J

types and cannot be mixed or inter- changed with J's. Although cast V and

AA triggers and hammers are

dimensionally the same, it is

suggested that stainless and carbon

steel hammers and triggers be used

only in matched pairs.


Remove J/V/AA Trigger Return

Spring

1. Edge dull a medium size screwdriver blade to prevent

frame damage. See fig. 21.

2. Place the blade of the screwdriver under the return spring's center

coil (and a thumb over the top of

the spring), and twist slightly to

lift and release the spring.

About J, V, and AA Trigger Return

Springs-

The original J type #580581 trigger

return spring is nearly the same as the

#584041 V and AA model return

spring. Comparing the two, they are

almost the same, aside from a minute difference in arm length. There is a

possibility that these two springs may

be merged at some point into a single

field replacement part. However, the

part numbers given above are factory

parts listed for use in J and V/AA

models, and should be used until a

replacement is listed by factory parts.

Since the return spring is responsible

for withdrawing the hammer/safety

connector, it should be closely

inspected. If trigger return and safety function were normal at precheck,

the spring is probably in good

condition. If the disassembly purpose

was to detail clean the revolver, and

the return spring appears to be in good

factory condition, it can be left in

place. On the other hand, if the spring

seemed weak, or appears to have been

altered or damaged in any way, check

it against a new factory replacement

trigger return spring. Always replace questionable springs.

Figure 21- Shows the trigger return spring ready for removal from its frame pin. A screwdriver with dulled corner edges

will lift the spring without marking the frame. Use thumb to

catch the spring as it clears the sideplate ledge. Always

precheck spring condition and tension. Replace questionable

return springs.

Figure 22- Shows a close view of the trigger return spring and

return spring guide after the rear return spring arm has been

unloaded by lifting the spring coil. Although this spring may

seem non-critical at first glance- it is, in fact, a safety related

part because it lowers the safety connector as it returns the

trigger.


Figure 23- Shows a close view of a cylinder bolt and cylinder

bolt spring in an AA model frame. A pair of small, long nose,

round jaw pliers is the best tool for removing V, and AA model

bolt springs- and preventing both spring and frame damage.

Round jaw pliers and bolt spring are shown separately, at left.

Figure 24- Shows a close view of an AA model cylinder bolt

after the bolt spring has been removed. The bolt body has been rotated downward, positioning the bolt head well clear of the

bolt window. The cylinder bolt is now ready to remove from

the frame. All J, V, and AA bolts are removed in the same way.

Remove Cylinder Bolt Spring

Once the trigger has been removed,

the cylinder bolt and spring are then

taken out. See figures 23 and 24. The

#580511 bolt spring has been used

throughout J, V, and AA production,

to date.

1. Insert one round plier jaw into the coiled center of the bolt spring. Position the other jaw outside the

spring on the bolt side, as shown

in fig. 23.

2. Squeeze lightly, and draw the spring straight up and out of the

frame well.

Note: If bolt spring tension seemed

weak at the initial precheck, the bolt

spring may have been altered,

damaged, or even installed backwards.

The cylinder bolt spring is not "tuneable", and must not be altered

from the original factory

specifications. Pre- inspect the bolt

spring at this time. If the spring is

weak or questionable, list it for

replacement on reassembly.

Remove Cylinder Bolt

Original, sintered, #580691B J model

bolts were also used in V model

production. The nearly identical

#580692 stainless AA model bolt is quickly identified by its brighter

surface appearance.

1. After the bolt spring has been removed, push the bolt head back

through the frame window. See

figure 24.

2. Then place the frame upside down over the parts box to drop

the bolt out.

3. If the bolt is sticky with lubricant, or has backed-up against the

frame, don't pry on it to get it out- instead, tap the outside of the

frame with a screwdriver handle.


About J/V/AA Frame Pins-

As with the earlier D, E, and I models,

Colt's J, V, & AA frame pivot pins are

pressed in. This is a more expensive

way to build revolvers. But the real

benefit of this manufacturing system is

that both frame and pivot pin heat

treats are kept individual and intact,

i.e., original heat treat isn't altered by the extra (and variable) heat of brazing

the pins in, or by the additional heat

used to replace the pins.

To prevent wear oversizing of the

frame pin holes, pivot pins are

removed only if worn, pitted, or

damaged. See frame pin work, Sect.

II.

About J/V/AA Firing Pins -

In J, V, and AA models, the firing pin

is held in place by the recoil plate. The recoil plate is, in turn, positioned in

the frame with a crosspin and retained

with a circular crimp at the recoil face.

For this reason, unless firing pin or

recoil plate replacement is needed, I

suggest leaving the firing pin in the

frame.

About Front & Rear Sights-

Prevent wear enlargement of the

barrel's front blade pin holes, by

leaving front sights as-is, unless replacing blades. Accro adjustable rear

sights are removed either for repair

and/or when refinishing the frame. See

sights, Section II. Note: For best

professional results, I suggest that the

finishing and rebluing of J, V, and AA

revolvers be done with front sights,

front sight pins, firing pins and pinned

and crimped recoil plates in place. A

good neutralizing solution will handle

any salts bleedout problem.

Figure 25- Shows a stainless steel AA model frame after all

action parts have been removed. Colt J/V/AA trigger, hammer,

bolt, and trigger return spring pivot pins are factory press fit

and aren't removed from the frame unless they are being

replaced. Unlike the earlier D, E, and I models, J/V/AA frame

pins aren't bossed.

Figure 26- Shows a close view, above, of Colt's Accro rear

sight used on the adjustable sight J, V, and AA models. The rear sight leaf roll pin shown (see arrow) retains the body of the

sight. Illustration below- Courtesy Colt Firearms Division-

shows frame, recoil plate, and inertial firing pin assembly-

disassembly details.


Figure 27- Shows the cylinder/crane assembly, ready for

disassembly. A J/V/AA type ejector rod is shown, above.

Rotating the cylinder counter clockwise, or the rod clockwise

(viewed from rear) loosens the ejector rod. Securing the rod

head between bronze vice jaws and rotating the cylinder body

is the best removal method.

Figure 28- Illustration shows an exploded parts view of a

J/V/AA model cylinder and crane assembly. -Illustration, courtesy Colt Firearms. If rod threads are resistant or stuck,

protect the ejector star, guide pins, and ejector stem spline by

placing fired (empty) shell cases, or dummy rounds, in

alternate chambers before twisting.

Disassemble Crane/Cylinder

Assembly

The crane/cylinder assembly was

removed from the frame earlier, and is

disassembled for detail cleaning and

close parts inspection at this time.

Note: ejector rod threads are treated

with Loctite #290 and torqued lightly

during final assembly at the factory. Ejector rods assembled in this way

usually don't loosen by themselves,

but are not difficult to unscrew.

Unthreading J/V/AA ejector rods

typically presents very few problems.

See figure 27.

1. Clamp rod head between bronze vice jaws and tighten only enough

to prevent slip.

2. Grip cylinder body and twist. Keep the cylinder and ejector rod on centerline to prevent bending

the rod.

3. If the rod is resistant, or feels springy, soak the entire

crane/cylinder assembly in

penetrant. Then, rap the end of the

rod (toward threads) with an 8 oz.

brass hammer.

4. Then, use the resistant rod removal method, below.

About Resistant or Stuck Ejector

Rods-

Unthreading ejector rods that have

been over tightened, are rusty, stuck,

or otherwise resistant, requires an

extra measure of care. In these cases,

always use a protective ejector back-

up such as fired shell cases, dummy

shells or, optionally, an ejector support

wrench. Failure to support the ejector

during twisting may torque, tweak or

damage the ejector star, guide pins

and/or the ejector rod stem spline. Also see figure 28.


Figure 29- Shows an AA model revolver frame with all parts removed except the barrel, frame pivot pins,

recoil plate, firing pin, and the front and rear sights. These remaining parts are removed only when

individual replacement makes it necessary. The indicated detail areas are common to all J, V, and AA

model revolvers. Impacted dirt, dried oil residue, and varnish must be removed, and all surfaces and

recesses well cleaned before a close inspection of the frame, sideplate, and cylinder can be made. The

cutaway cylinder shows extra internal detail. Important areas are identified by number, below. Also, see figures 30, 31, and 32 for removal of heavy lead fouling.

1. Barrel, forcing cone, and surrounding frame area 2. Cylinder bolt window, and underneath bolt window 3. Firing pin and recoil plate area- use pressurized solvent as necessary 4. Latch pin tunnel and ratchet recess area 5. Inside frame surfaces, and trigger, hammer, and bolt bearing areas 6. Bolt spring recess area 7. Crane stem tunnel and crane lock recess 8. Frame screw threads, all locations 9. Sideplate slot and latch dovetail recess 10. Front cylinder face, around chamber exits 11. Cylinder crane tunnel and splined stem guide 12. Ejector, ejector star recess, and around ejector guide pins 13. Chamber leades/throats


Figure 30- Shows a .38/.357 calibre Lewis Lead Remover set

up for use in a King Cobra barrel. By using brass screen

patches over an expand- able rubber head, this tool can

mechanically remove even the heaviest lead fouling without

use of abrasives or poisonous chemicals. The knurled adjuster

expands the cleaning head.

Figure 31- Shows a Lewis forcing cone cleaning head set up

for lead/carbon removal. Drawing forward on the rod while rotating the head (and brass screen patch) cleans even the

dirtiest forcing cones. Magnum forcing cones may be subjected

to extreme pressures, combustion temperatures, flame erosion,

and carburizing.

Heavy Lead Fouling Removal

When soft lead or soft lead alloy

bullets are fired, some amount of bore

streaking is both normal and

unavoidable. This is still the case even

if bullets are correctly sized and

lubricated. Normal streaking presents

little problem, and is easily removed

with standard solvents and cleaning brushes. But heavy leading and build-

ups, of the type that make bores look

like the inside of a lead pipe, shouldn't

be allowed to happen in the first place-

bore rifling becomes useless, bullets

tear, accuracy is lost. The remedy for

this problem is prevention: Don't

accelerate soft alloy lead, even when

well lubricated, faster than 850 or 900

fps. In .38 special target use, 700 to

750 fps. is optimum; and with proper bullet lube, bore leading is usually

minimal.

But, as magnum velocities are

approached, the much higher gas

temperatures vaporize the backs of

lead alloy bullets and coat the inside

of the barrel. Since reloaders insist on

loading high velocity soft lead

ammunition, the removal problem

continues to exist. The following

barrel de- leading method is still best:

1. Install the correct bore size Lewis Lead Remover expander head and

brass screen patch. See figure 30.

2. Draw the patch slowly through the bore, with the rubber expander

head set just at lead build-up I.D.

size.

3. Then, expand the head slightly with each drawing of the patch,

increasing bite.

4. Continue until all fouling has been flaked off.


De-lead .357 Cylinders

The lead and/or carbon rings that

usually build up from firing .38 spl.

rounds in .357 chambers should be

removed regularly- for three reasons:

1. When .357 rounds are fired in a revolver with minimum

headspace, a built up lead and/or

carbon ring can act as a crimping shoulder. Typical results are

excessive, even dangerous, gas

pressures and bullet deformation.

2. When .357 ammunition is fired, even small lead/carbon rings can

vary accuracy.

3. Moisture tends to absorb into the carbon/lead layers, and can pit

chamber walls.

Detail Inspect Cylinder

We are concentrating only on the body of the cylinder at this time. Other

cylinder parts will be checked later.

Make the following checks:

1. Inspect the cylinder collar. The shoulder must be square, smooth,

and unaltered.

2. Check the front of the cylinder for nicks, dents and "cylinder-hits-

barrel" rings.

3. Check the cylinder face at exit throats for scrub-out or rounding off from abrasives.

4. Inspect chamber interior condition for pits or damage.

5. Check that both ejector star guide pins are there, are high enough,

and undamaged.

6. The ejector stem guide (pressed in the cylinder) must be tight and

undamaged.

7. Cylinder bolt slots must be in original unworn condition. If

enough material remains, most cylinder collars can be stretched

and refit. A missing guide pin can

be replaced. Replace the cylinder

if any of the other conditions

exist.

Figure 32- Shows a half-sectioned .357 magnum cylinder.

When .38 Spl. rounds are fired in a .357 chamber lead/carbon

rings build up between the .38 Spl. case mouths and chamber

exit throats. Arrows show typical buildup zone in chamber. A

Clymer de-leading reamer useful for removing both deposits is

shown, below.

Figure 33- Shows cylinder front, back, and inside inspection

points which must be checked after the cylinder has been

cleaned and de- leaded. This necessary, overall inspection will

determine whether or not the cylinder can be reused as it is. or

whether fitting work and/or cylinder assembly replacement will

be required.


Figure 34- Shows frame and sideplate completely cleaned and ready for close inspection before

reassembly. Carefully inspect and detail all areas listed below, as necessary. Frames and sideplates that

are in substandard or unserviceable condition due to internal rust, cracks, alteration, and/or other damage,

will not produce a quality or safe product, and must not be used. Also, see figures 35 through 41.

1. Inertial firing pin- check head, tip, and frame condition 2. Latch pin tunnel- inspect for wear, alteration, remove edge burrs 3. Bolt window- inspect for wear, alteration, remove burrs, do not oversize 4. Forcing cone- check condition, if eroded or damaged see figure 39 5. Recoil plate- check for tight plate and retaining pin, level plate if needed 6. Crane tunnel- inspect, lightly dress with Craytex rod, don't oversize 7. Frame pins- check for tightness, correct pin type, wear, or alteration 8. Frame threads- inspect all threads, retap any questionable threads 9. Sideplate recess- check edge and ledge condition, remove nicks or burrs 10. Mainspring seat slots- check for correct seat/plate slot fit, remove burrs 11. Rear sight recess- inspect, remove edge nicks and leaf pin hole burrs 12. Barrel/frame fit- check that barrel is at 12:00, and tight in the frame 13. Sight condition- inspect blades, pins, and screws as applicable 14. Crown and bore- check crown fox nicks, dents, damage- inspect barrel for wear, rust, bulges or

obstruction See figures 40 and 41

15. Interior frame condition- inspect interior bearing surfaces and recesses, remove burrs and level any high contact areas

16. Sideplate- check straightness and edge condition, remove any burrs


Figure 35- Shows a close view of a ratchet peened (ratchet indented) frame. The illustration, at right,

shows severe peening at the frame's ratchet seat (greatly exaggerated for visibility). J/V/AA frames are

heat treated to an exceptional toughness and are thicker overall than earlier models (especially in the

ratchet seat area). Additionally, the J/V/AA ratchet is made with a greater face area than earlier ratchets.

With these combined factors, a visibly peened J. Y, or AA ratchet seat is rarely seen. While peening

damage is found occasionally in these frames, it usually takes the form shown in figure 36.

Ratchet peening occurs most commonly in magnum revolvers when over pressure ammunition is used, and particularly when excess cylinder endplay is present. The use of hot, high pressure loads, alone, can

create excessive endplay. The forces and pressures involved can compress cylinder collars and stretch

frames. Excess endplay, when combined with the continued use of heavy loads, sets the stage for the

beginning of ratchet peening problems. With heavy, over pressure loads, ratchet marking can begin to

appear after excess cylinder endplay develops; just how soon is subject to how much inertia the cylinder

is forced to pick up, and how often the revolver is fired. With high pressure loads as the driving force, the

main determinants are: how far the cylinder is allowed to move forward (existing endplay). how hard it

strikes the frame (cylinder collar compression and more endplay), and, finally, how much energy the

cylinder has on return when it impacts against the back of the frame.

The following are the basic mechanics of ratchet peening:

1. Shell casings push back on the recoil plate on pressure rise. Expanding gas then accelerates the cylinder forward. The greater the endplay and faster the pressure curve, the greater the speed and

energy the cylinder will develop.

2. At the end of forward travel, the cylinder collar impacts against the frame. At this point, the collar compresses and/or marks the forward frame strap.

3. Then, as the bullet exits the cylinder and enters the barrel, hot, expanding, extremely high pressure combustion gas is suddenly vented out through the barrel/cylinder gap. The cylinder is instantly shot

backward, and the ratchet face strikes the frame with high energy, very much like a punch press die.

To some extent, these high energy impacts will push the ratchet seat back, stretch the frame, and/or

cause peen marking. The degree of damage depends on severity and duration of owner misuse. This

is strictly a user caused problem.

Warning: D

Colt Revolvers Workshop Manual_Vol 2_Kuhnhausen.pdf

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