Color Guide Book10

Supplier

Colour Guide Book

Quality department 25 August 2009

H&M Supplier Colour Guide Book 2(17)

25 August 2009

Content

General ..................................................................................................... 3

Introduction............................................................................................... 4

Colour Standard ......................................................................................... 5

Colour Process ........................................................................................... 6

Colour continuity record .............................................................................. 8

Colour evaluation – general ....................................................................... 10

Colour evaluation - visual method............................................................... 11

Specification Illuminants............................................................................ 12

Colour evaluation – instrumental method..................................................... 13

Colour coding........................................................................................... 13

Colour coding........................................................................................... 14

Dyer & Supplier expectations ..................................................................... 14

Dyer & Supplier expectations ..................................................................... 15

Frequently asked questions........................................................................ 16


25 August 2009

General

H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB, including H & M Rowells AB, H & M Home, COS –

Collection of Style and Monki AB have established this Colour Guide Book to guide

suppliers to achieve a quicker and better result in their colour work.

- For H&M Cosmetic products a separate Colour Guide Book is available.

The guidelines and requirements in this Colour Guide Book apply to all products in

textile, leather/suede, plastic, bone, wood, metal, straw and paper. Colour

evaluation using instrumental method should be used when applicable.

All parts of a product are equally important to check according to the same

guidelines; shell, details, accessories (including: threads, buttons, badges, zippers,

interlinings, drawstrings, stoppers) etc. Therefore these guidelines are made

for everyone involved in the colour process – garment makers, accessory

suppliers, dyers, print houses, embroidery units, etc.

Each supplier to H&M is responsible for informing all their suppliers and

subcontractors about the content of these guidelines and requirements and to

make sure that they also comply.

All H&M documents referred to in this document are found on H&M Official

document site, www.hm.com/supplier. User name and password is provided by

your local H&M office.

If you have any questions about this Colour Guide Book – please contact the Colour

technician at your local H&M office.


25 August 2009

Introduction

Colour is usually the first thing a consumer notices about a product, and one of the

most important factors of the buying decision. Colour also forms the first

impression of quality.

Colour is a very subjective experience. In casual conversation, your reaction to a

colour can be considered a matter of taste. In textile applications colour

evaluations can't be handled subjectively. Therefore, colour in the textile industry

must be specified and defined to ensure quality control.

Colour technology

The main benefits of colour technology are the ability to communicate colour

standards digitally and to control the production. This approach enables everybody

to use the same colour starting point and provides an objective, consistent and

accurate method of colour evaluation through the use of commercial tolerances. It

also leads to major quality improvement and significant lead time reduction.

Spectrophotometer tolerances give suppliers an idea of what is considered an

acceptable colour match. Dyers should utilize colour technology to “pre-screen”

their samples before submission. This allows for much faster turn around time and

quicker approvals.

Textiles are not homogenous materials, which means, that different areas of a

sample could change in colour due to structural effects, quality and/or dyeing

method. The measurement technique greatly influences the measurement result.

Therefore it is important for all involved in colour to follow the same guidelines and

procedures.


25 August 2009

Colour Standard

In order to get good results it is very important to start out with a good colour

standard, and keep the same standard throughout the production chain. The only

way to get consistent results is when everyone is using the same standard.

Due to the nature of textiles - physical standards (colour cuttings) have its

limitations such as shade variation, soiling, fading etc. Numeric standards

(spectral data/reflectance values) will not change, and will give everyone the same

starting point. H&M uses numeric standards in combination with physical

standards.

Physical Standard = colour cutting

o All physical standards should be stored in a dry and clean environment and

at no time left exposed to direct sunlight or in any area where soiling or

damage can occur.

o Physical standards are used purely for visual evaluation of colour and should

not be re-measured as original standard.

Numeric standard = reflectance values

The reflectance values are available at H&M official document site

www.hm.com/supplier

The reflectance values are independent of dye method and fibre content, as well as

light source – therefore the numeric standard can be used for all fibre types and

qualities.

o As the numeric standard can be downloaded from H&M official document

site or sent via mail – a dyer using a computerized match prediction

program can start lab dipping days before the physical standard arrives.

o Numeric standards can be downloaded as .qtx or .pdf files. The files called

.qtx can be imported directly by the dyer into a computerized match

prediction program. Please note - It is not possible to open .qtx files with

other software than the match prediction program. The files called .pdf are

only like a printed copy of the screen so the values must be keyed in

manually by the dyer in to the software, and then verified via the checksum

figure.

o Numeric standards are used for all instrumental evaluation of colour.

o Note – not all colours will be available as numeric standards (for example:

whites, fluorescent colours).


25 August 2009

Colour Process

Colour from H&M to supply chain

Merchandiser sends physical standards (cuttings) to garment maker who should

forward to dyer:

o Physical standards by post; small reference to garment supplier and

minimum 4x10 cm to dyer.

o Numeric standards; download the file from H&M official document site (see

previous page) send by e-mail to dyer or dyer should directly download it

from the site.

For numeric standards (reflectance values) the dyer will need a computerized

match prediction program that can import .qtx file format. The numbers must

otherwise be keyed in manually. Physical standard must not be re-measured

by the dyer. In order to get the correct result when importing .qtx, the H&M

settings must be used (see p.12).

Colour from supply chain to H&M

Lab dips

o Lab dips must be made in a process reproducible in the bulk dyeing process.

Lab dyeing method should imitate the real dyeing process. The sample

should be dyed in a similar quality as the order.

o Lab dips should be critically evaluated by dyer/supplier and only the best

match, within H&M tolerance, should be submitted to H&M. 2 lab dips per

shade are maximum to be submitted.

o A spectrophotometer Colour report1 should be provided with the lab-dip, if

applicable.

o If the fabric/garment will undergo any wash/treatments; Lab-dip before

wash/treatment should correspond to standard.

o Minimum size of lab dip is 4x10 cm to H&M, and additional cutting as

reference to garment supplier.

o Lab-dips must be securely mounted to a piece of paper2, face side up, with

the grain, wales or pile running in vertical direction and marked with:

Supplier name

Dyer mill name

Date

H&M Order number

H&M Colour code

Lab dip number

What part of the garment it is, e.g. body, cuff, lining

Fabric description

Specify if the garment will undergo any finishing treatment

H&M Merchandiser name

Illuminant

1 H&M Colour Report form may be used, download at www.hm.com/supplier 2 H&M Lab dip submission form may be used, download at www.hm.com/supplier


25 August 2009

Yarn, strike off, hand loom etc.

o For yarn dyed jersey and heavy knit, yarns or threads can be submitted but

yarn should preferably be knitted into a swatch using a sample sock

machine or available method.

o All artworks, i.e. prints and embroideries, should be made on a similar

colour background as stated on order.

o Strike off/handloom should be large enough to show a full repeat of the

design. Windings might substitute the handloom.

o For yarn dyed woven checks/stripes it is recommended to send a piece of

loom for approval.

Trims

All details in the same product should be matching in all 3 lights sources, unless

contrast colour.

Trims, e.g. threads, buttons, badges, zippers, interlinings, drawstrings, stoppers

should be evaluated according to the same guidelines as shell, lining, cuffs etc.

Trims should be evaluated against standard considering the approved colour of

shell fabric (lab-dip to bulk).

If by exception H&M has accepted a colour of shell fabric deviating from standard

colour and the trims should be dyed to match, the supplier should send approved

lab-dip (if possible bulk) to trim suppliers to follow.

Production

Bulk

o Bulk should be critically evaluated by dyer/supplier against the standard.

o A spectrophotometer Colour report1 should be submitted to the local H&M

office together with the bulk cutting, if applicable.

o If the garment will undergo any wash/treatment. A cutting before

wash/treatment and a part of garment or a cutting after wash/treatment

should be submitted.

o Minimum size of bulk cutting is 10x10 cm to H&M, and additional cutting as

reference to garment supplier.

o Bulk cutting must be securely mounted to a piece of paper2, face side up,

with the grain, wales or pile running in vertical direction and marked with:

Supplier name

Dyer mill name

Date

H&M Order number

H&M Colour code

Bulk number

What part of the garment it is, e.g. body, cuff, lining

Fabric description

Specify finishing treatment, if applicable

H&M Merchandiser name

Illuminant

Counter sample

o Please mark if counter sample is made from bulk or sampling material.

1 H&M Colour Report form may be used, download at www.hm.com/supplier 2 H&M Bulk submission form may be used, download at www.hm.com/supplier


25 August 2009

Colour continuity record

Colour and shades must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records.

Dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked.

The swatches must be a minimum of 4x10 cm and be evaluated visually in a light

box.

For the use of ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessing change in colour there should

not be a greater difference than 4-5 between any parts within a dye lot and roll. If

difference is more then 4-5 on the grey scale between any parts, the H&M local

office must be contacted.

Records must be available for H&M and kept for at least 6 month.

Roll Record

A Roll record should be created by fabric supplier as a reference of every roll. All

swatches in a dye lot should be loosely attached with a string into a bundle to

enable easy colour evaluation. The bundle should be marked with:

• H&M Order and Department number

• Date

• Fabric supplier

• Fabric description

• Colour description

Each swatch must be face side up, with the ends, wales or pile running in the same

direction marked with:

• Roll length

• Roll number

• Dye lot number

For washed garments the H&M garment supplier must stitch all roll swatches

together, to a patchwork (blanket), marked with roll number, and wash according

to specification.

Shade record

The H&M fabric supplier must create a shade record specifying meters/yards.

Minimum acceptable quantity for one shade is 500 m/yds. A spectrophotometer

colour report is recommended to be included in the shade record.

The records of shades/family of shades must be marked with:

• H&M Order and Department number

• Date

• Fabric supplier

• Fabric description

• Colour description

• Roll No

• Shade family

• Total length

To limit number of shades per country, the garment supplier must sort

shades/family of shades into countries and fill in:

• Planned country


25 August 2009

Example of H&M Shade Record that may be used.

Download at www.hm.com/supplier

Colour Shade D65 TL83 A

To App. fabric: Ok Ok Ok

Shade: A Family: A, E, D

Roll No: 1-30, 91-150

Total length: 15000m

Planned country: Se, De, F

For heavy knit the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches, in

order to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting, recorded with order

number, date, dye lot and family number, weight, and planned country.

Full width cutting

At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30

cm/6” full width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the

light box against:

• Colour Standard

• Approved fabric

• Fabric Technical Data

Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing:

• Side to side

• Side-centre-side

• Beginning-end


25 August 2009

Colour evaluation – general

Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental

evaluation.

General Colour Requirements

• Standard is standard throughout the production

• Colours must be matched to standard in H&M illuminants

• Samples must not show metamerism against standard.

• Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are only accepted in white and neon

colours

• Accessories/trim should be evaluated using the same guidelines, against

standard considering approved shell fabric

• Colours must meet H&M tolerances visually and instrumentally

Standard is standard

Colours are evaluated against standard throughout the production.

Previously bulk fabric was evaluated against approved l/d. The effect of this was

that the colour difference between two orders could be very big, and very obvious

to our customers, see sketch below.

In order to get an acceptable colour match between products, the standard has to

be kept as standard throughout the production chain. Thus standard to lab dip

DE<1.0, and standard to production (dye lot) DE<1.0. Always keep the

standard as the standard.

OK NOT OK


25 August 2009

Colour evaluation - visual method

Visual evaluation is influenced by a number of variables. To control these variables

all visual evaluation of colour must be carried out in a light box and the following

procedures must be followed:

Illuminants1: H&M “Shop light” TL830

Daylight D65

A-light (tungsten, light bulb)

UV light (to check presence of OBA, see General colour req. page 9)

The light box must have neutral grey walls with a non-shiny surface

on the inside. The grey tone should be similar to Munsell N7, N5 or

Grey 5574(previously called matt emulsion smokey pine 14-40d).

The light box must be placed in a dark room or with the possibility of

total darkness. Any additional light source other than the light box in

the viewing area should be minimized or turned off when viewing

colours for approval.

The specified� tubes must be used in pairs and 4 light bulbs 40 W to

reach a good light level. This concerns light boxes size; width ~60 cm,

height ~45 cm. For a larger size of light box, number of lamps should

be increased to match above light intensity.

Light box:

The light box must be clean and clear of other samples.

Maintenance

of light box:

The lamps should be changed after 1300 hours use or after 12

months, whichever is the sooner.

Two persons should check the colour together, at least one with

superior colour vision (maximum score of 16 on Farnsworth - Munsell

100 Hue Color Test).

Observer:

The observer should not wear tinted glasses or coloured contact

lenses.

Fold standard and sample until opaque (no light passes through) and

same size. Use the same background for all samples to be evaluated,

preferable grey as the background of the light box.

Align samples in the same direction, side to side, not touching, not

overlapping.

Sample prep:

Evaluate the colour in different angles, especially important for

directional fabrics (suede, velvet etc.).

Tolerances:

Close critical match to standard in TL830 and D65 and not display a

dramatic difference in colour appearance in A-light (tungsten).

Samples must not show metamerism against standard.

If by exception a colour standard is not constant in all light sources,

we would accept a colour more constant than our standard if the

colour closely matches our standard in our primary light source TL830.

1 Specification of illuminants see next page.


25 August 2009

Specification Illuminants

H&M require the usage of TL830 and D65 branded according to the chart,

with the exact same Colour Temperature and CRI (Colour Rendering

Index).

H&M uses the below lamps branded Philips for colour evaluation. VeriVide branded

lamp for D65 also fulfil the requirements, i.e. it is ok to use.

Illuminant Product Colour

Temp. (Kelvin)

CRI - Colour

Rendering Index

Philips TL-D 18W/830

(diam. 26 mm)

3000 83-85 H&M Shop light

TL830

Philips TL 20W/830

(diam. 38 mm)

3000 83-85

Philips TL-D 18W/965 Graphica

(diam. 26 mm)

6500 98

Philips TL 20W/965 Graphica

(diam. 38 mm)

6500 98

Daylight D65

VeriVide Daylight 600 mm, 18 W

6500

A-light

(tungsten, light

bulb)

Philips clear, 40W

Philips TL-D 18W BLB

(diam. 26 mm)

Blacklight

Blue

UV light

Philips TL 20W BLB

(diam. 38 mm)

Blacklight

Blue


25 August 2009

Colour evaluation – instrumental method

H&M uses the brand Datacolor; spectrophotometer Spectraflash 600+/600x/450F

interfaced with Tools QC software. Following set-up should be used:

Colour space: CMC 2:1

Illuminants: TL830

D65

A-light (for reference)

Observer: 10-Degree angle

Measuring area: 30 mm diameter (LAV aperture)

Calibration mode: Reflectance

Specular port: Included

UV Amount: 400nm cut-off

Calibration: Every 8 hours

Instrumental evaluation is used for solid colour fabric (dyed). Not all qualities can

be evaluated instrumentally.

The spectrophotometer must be calibrated & maintained according to

manufacturers specifications.

Sample preparation: Fold until sample is opaque (no light passes through),

but not too thick, as it would protrude into the measuring

sphere. Swatches must be free of wrinkles, creases, and

dust and have no adhesive backing.

Measure face side.

Measurements: Minimum 2 readings (0°, 90°) for plain fabric and

minimum 4 readings (0°, 90°, 180°, 270°) for directional

and structural fabric.

Tolerance CMC (2:1):

Standard to lab dip: DE<1.0

Standard to production: DE<1.0

(See illuminants above)

Samples must not show metamerism against standard.

The production dye lots and all parts in the same garment

(of the same colour) should run in the same direction for

Lightness, Saturation and Colour tone as the approved

lab-dip, see sketch.

οοοο = Approved lab-dip

• = Measurement, 1 dye lot

= Tolerance area

DL = Difference in Lightness

DC = Difference in Saturation

DH = Difference in Colour Tone

DLCMC 2:1 DC

•• •• ••

• • • • •ο • ••

DH

Not OK •Not OK •


25 August 2009

Colour coding

H&M colour coding system is based on the principles of colour theory. The H&M

colour wheel is split into 8 main colour groups + 2 groups of neutrals.

Each colour group consists of 9 sub groups. In the center of each group is the pure

colour of the group, i.e. 45 Red. Each sub group can have up to 999 different

colour shades.

All H&M colours have a 5-digit code. Every colour automatically gets a 2-digit

price tag colour code – this is the same as Sub Group and this is the code that

will show on the price tag. This is also the code to be used on carton marking

as well as on Supplier packing list.

If an order has 2 colours within the same sub group, for example 45-006 and 45-

013, the first mentioned sub group colour 45 will get 45 as price tag colour code

and the second 2 digit number 45 will get another price tag colour code e.g. 40.

In this case one of the codes on the price tag will not correspond to the actual 5-

digit colour code. The packing list from the order indicates price tag colour

code for each placed H&M colour code.

Where to find the 2 digit

Colour Code (12) on price tag

45-006

COLOUR GROUP

COLOUR SHADESUB GROUP


25 August 2009

Dyer & Supplier expectations

General

The colour should meet our tolerances instrumentally and visually when evaluated

by H&M.

We expect suppliers/dyers to pre-screen lab dips and send only the best match to

H&M, maximum 2 lab dips/colour, minimum size 4x10 cm.

We expect l/d to be sent as quickly as possible.

Equipment

We require dyers and suppliers to have a light box with our specified illuminants:

TL83, D65, A-light (tungsten, light bulb) and UV-light. More details about

illuminants on page 11.

We recommend the dyers who want to invest in a colour management system,

should acquire one that is compatible to H&M. This should include a computerised

match prediction program that accepts .qtx files.

The only 2 models that are considered to be compatible with

Datacolor SF600X, SF600+CT, Datacolor 600 and Datacolor 650 in terms of

accuracy and repeatability are:

• Minolta 3700d

• Gretag Macbeth CE7000A

We expect operator competency. The data is only as good as the operator. Even

the most expensive systems are inaccurate if the people operating them are not

trained & qualified.

All equipment must be calibrated & maintained according to manufacturer’s

specifications.

Important that the numeric standard supplied by H&M is used, and physical

standard not re-measured by the dyer! In order to get the correct result, the H&M

settings must be used.


25 August 2009

Frequently asked questions

1. Why is the result different between our measurements and the ones

made by H&M?

90% of disagreements between dyer and H&M production offices are caused by

human error rather than differences in instruments or software.

• Difference in set-up of instrument – check that your settings are the same

as H&M (see p.13)

• Variations in measurement technique – the sample must be folded until

opaque (no light passes through) and the sample must be rotated 90

degrees between measurements. A minimum of two measurements must be

made, or until average is <DE 0,15.

• Conditioning – variations in temperature and humidity. Samples should be

dry and not too hot when measured.

• Difference in calibration of instrument – the instrument should be calibrated

daily and maintained properly to obtain the best results.

Measurements made on the same instrument, can due to the human error and

the nature of textiles give variations up to DE 0.3.

Measurements made on different models/makes can give variations up to DE

0.4.

2. Why do we need to check colours in several lights?

Colours must be checked in TL830 (H&M shop light), D65 and A-light

(tungsten) in order to make sure that the colour is not changing in appearance

between light sources. Our customers should not be disappointed when they

leave our store, and see that the colour of the garment looks different in

daylight, or when they get to their home. A-light is commonly used in homes in

Europe.

3. Colours should not display a dramatic difference in colour appearance

in A-light. What is a dramatic difference? Dramatic difference is when our

customer will see it as a totally different colour when they go into A-light. The

problem most often occurs with beige or khaki green colours. An example – a

product is green in TL830 and D65, but brown in A-light.

Note – all colours look slightly different in A-light due to the energy level in the

light source.

4. Are the specified light sources the same for different concepts within

H&M; like for example Rowells, Home, COS, footwear? And the priority

order?

Yes, products from all concepts should be evaluated in the three specified light

sources.

In exceptional cases if difficulties to match the colour in all three light sources,

H&M shop light (TL830) is our primary light.

Generally D65 is the secondary and A-light (tungsten) the third, but we also

consider where the products should be used; therefore A-light (tungsten) is

more important than D65 for underwear if difficulties to match in all three.

5. Why both visual and instrumental evaluation? If the result from the

machine is Pass, why do we have to check visually?

The spectrophotometer is not a judge; it is a tool for visual evaluation. The final

decision is always based on the visual evaluation.


25 August 2009

6. What to do if the standard is not colour constant (i.e. change of

appearance in different light sources)?

If by exception a colour standard is not constant in both D65 and TL830. We

accept a colour more constant than our standard if the colour closely matches

our standard in shop light TL830 (i.e. our primary light source).

7. What is the standard in the whole process of different production

stages?

Standard is standard during all production stages. All dye lots should run in the

same direction (DL, DC & DH) as lab-dip, closely matching each other.

8. How shall we evaluate trim?

All parts of the product are equally important and should be checked according

to the same colour guidelines. If by exception H&M has accepted a colour of

shell fabric deviating from standard colour and the trims should be dyed to

match, the supplier should send approved lab-dip (if possible bulk) to trim

suppliers to follow. All details in the same product should be matching in all 3

lights sources, unless contrast colour.

9. Why can’t we open the .qtx file?

It is not possible to open .qtx files with other software than the match

prediction program.

10.Why are the imported .qtx values not the same as when physical

sample is measured?

It is impossible to dye a piece of fabric 100% level over a large area. The

standards are measured by H&M in Stockholm and distributed to all H&M

Production offices, so that everyone will get the same starting point. When the

standard is re-measured it is very likely that there will be a slight variation, and

that’s why standards should not be re-measured. It is also important that the

H&M settings are used when importing a qtx. See also answer for question

number 1.

6. The H&M physical standard is in woven cotton. Can we use the H&M

reflectance values for other fibre types and qualities?

Yes you can. Reflectance values are independent of fibre content and quality.

7. Why can’t we use OBA for pastel colours?

Using optical brightening agents (OBA) in other colours than white can cause

problems for our customers. Using OBA could give an uneven dyeing, even

within the same batch. Colours dyed using OBA can fade with sunlight, and also

eventually wash out so that the colour will not have the nice fresh appearance.

If you have a dyed white fabric using OBA, then you should not over-dye this

fabric to achieve a pastel colour. We only accept OBA for white and neon

colours.

8. The colour code on the price tag is not corresponding to the order

sheet. What should we do?

All H&M colours have a 5-digit code. Every colour automatically gets a 2-digit

price tag colour code – this is the same as Sub Group and this is the code

that will show on the price tag. This is also the code to be used on carton

marking as well as on Supplier packing list.

If an order has 2 colours within the same sub group, for example 45-006 and

45-013, the first mentioned sub group colour 45 will get 45 as price tag colour

code and the second 2 digit number 45 will get another price tag colour code

e.g. 40. In this case one of the codes on the price tag will not correspond to the

actual 5-digit colour code. The packing list from the order indicates price

tag colour code for each placed H&M colour code.

Color Guide Book10

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