Clothing and Textile

Learning Objective

At the end of this topic, the students will be able to • Define term textile and know brief history• Classify different types of fibers and yarns• Know what textile products to select for specific

uses in their day to day life• Identify the fabric construction and finishes given to

each type of clothing textile• Care of textile products

Brief History• Textiles date back to the Stone Age around 100,000

years ago whereas cotton use dates back to 5,000 B.C.

• Silk Road in ancient world = a way to sell textiles

• Although simple clothing was worn at first, dyeing methods developed and clothing started to become more elaborate

• Ancient Egypt = flax• Ancient India = cotton• Ancient China = silk• Ancient Japan = hemp, method of weaving,

cloth made from bark fibers

Flax

Cotton

Silk

What is a Textile?• A textile is a flexible material comprised of a

network of natural or artificial fibers often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibers, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands known as yarn.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing

Classification and identification of textile fibers

Textile is classified :1. Based on source2. Based on lenght3. Based on the contentTextile can be identified:1. By Feel2. By Lenght3. By Lustre4. By Texture

Two types of Fiber based on Source

1. Natural fibers – they are obtained from nature

a. vegetable fibers ( cellulose)

e.g. Abaca, Sisal, Buri

b. animal fibers (protein)

e.g. Wool

c. mineral fibers

e.g. Asbestos

Comparison between Animal and Vegetable Fibers

Vegetable Fiber Animal Fiber

Vegetable fibers are strong with a crisp feel

Animal fibers are soft to feel

Good heat Poor heat

Non resilient and crease easily Stronger wet when dry

Stronger when wet than dry Absorbent

Moth proof Attacked by moths

Affected by mildew in damp conditions Not affected by mildew easily

Can be bleached Damaged by sunlight& alkalis

Not harmed by alkalis Affected by chlorine bleach

Affected by acids

A. Vegetable Fiber

• Vegetable fibers are obtained from plant cells

Category Description

Seed fiber Fibers collected from seeds or seed cases. e.g. cotton and kapok

Leaf fiber Fibers collected from leaves. e.g., sansevieria, fique, sisal, banana and agave.

Bast fiber

Fibers are collected from the skin or bast surrounding the stem of their respective plant. These fibers have higher tensile strength than other fibers. Therefore, these fibers are used for durable yarn, fabric, packaging, and paper. Some examples are flax, jute, kenaf, industrial hemp, ramie, rattan, and vine fibers.

Skin Fiber

Fruit fiber Fibers are collected from the fruit of the plant, e.g. coconut (coir) fiber.

Stalk fiber

Fibers are actually the stalks of the plant. E.g. straws of wheat, rice, barley, and other crops including bamboo and grass. Tree wood is also such a fiber.

1. Cotton• This fibre is obtained

from the seeds of cotton plant, which grows 1-2 meters tall .

Advantages Limitations

Can be dyed easily Cotton creases easily

Good conductor of heat Tends to shrink when washed

Durable since fibre is strong Sheds lint

Easily dry- cleaned. Prone to mildew attacks

Good absorbency power Flammable

Textured effects are easily available. Damaged by acids

Highly versatile Takes longer time to dry

Processed into wide range of fabrics When exposed to sunlight it turns yellow

2. Linen

• This fiber is obtained from the stem of the flax plant .This is an annual plant growing maximum about 40 inches.

Advantages Limitations

More durable than cotton Creases & shrinks easily

Withstands constant washing Prone to mildew attacks

Soil is easily removed from this It does not have good affinity for dyes

Easy to laundry Takes long time to dry

Stronger when in wet condition Linen is flammable

Not affected by sunlight It is expensive

Good conductor of heat

Can withstand high ironing temperatures

3. Jute

• Obtained from stems of jute plant

Advantages Limitations

Inexpensive & can be blended with other fibres

weak & non-durable

It resists water, fire, mildew and rot

difficult to bleach

It dyes easily difficult to laundry

4. Ramie - obtained from stems of plant, it is a woody fibre , it is also known as china grass & is used for making rope, twine, sacking & nets.

5. Hemp - obtained from stems of plant & is used for manufacturing carpets & rags, its used to to make sacks & canvas

6. Sisal - obtained from the leaves of a plant, resembles cactus .it is used to make twine , rope, sacking& nets

7. Kapok - obtained from seeds of the cotton tree& are smooth & light, it is used for filling of cushions.

8. Coir and Pina - obtained from coconut husk and leaves of pineapple plants, used in making rope & mats, also used for stuffing upholstered furniture's

and for making bags

B. Animal Fiber

• Animal fibers generally comprise proteins such as collagen, keratin and fibroin; examples include silk, sinew, wool, catgut, angora, mohair and alpaca.

Category Description

Animal hair (wool or hairs)

Fiber or wool taken from animals or hairy mammals. e.g. sheep's wool, goat

hair (cashmere, mohair), alpaca hair, horse hair, etc.

Silk fiberFiber secreted by glands (often located near the mouth) of insects during the

preparation of cocoons.

Avian fiber Fibers from birds, e.g. feathers and feather fiber.

1. Wool

• Obtained from fleece of sheep

• Wool is graded under 4 classes: fine, medium, long & carpet wools

Advantages Limitations

Comfortable for wear Takes long time to dry

Dyes easily Weak fibers

Does not soil easily Stretches easily

Can be laundered easily Good quality is expensive

Flameproof damaged by moth

Shrink proof May produce allergic reaction to skin

Moth resistant

2. Silk

• The finest quality of raw silk is obtained from the cocoon of the bombyx mori, a type f silkworm

Advantages Limitations

Soft feel & lustre Silk is weakened by sunlight

Elegant to look at Becomes weaker when wet

Strongest natural fibre Weakened at high temperatures

Bad conductor of heat Sensitive to acid

White silk can be bleached Very costly

C. Mineral Fiber

• Asbestos is a natural mineral fibre • It is obtained from rocks• It is acid proof , rust proof & flame proof• Can withstand extreme temperatures• It is used for making fire fighting suits

2. Manmade fibers –they are obtained in various waya. re-generated

e.g art silkb. semi-synthetic

e.g Acetate/ Diacetate/ Lyocell/ Modal/ Rayon/ Triacetatec. synthetic

Mineral Glass e.g Carbon/ Tenax/ Basalt/

Metallic Polymer

e.g Nylon/ Polyester/ Spandex