CLOSURES OR FASTENERS

Methods of fastening or closures used in the garment industry

• Buttons and button holes• Zippers• Snaps• Hooks & eyes• Nylon touch & close fasteners• Miscellaneous

ButtonsMost buttons are both a decorative feature of the garment and functional closure. But some buttons are strictly functional

• Concealed button closures and buttons inside double breasted garments to help them hang smoothly

Some buttons are strictly decorative• Nonfunctional buttons at the wrists of

most suits

Types of buttons According to their structure and method

of application buttons can be classified into following group

• Sew through buttons• Shank buttons• Others

Composition of buttons

• Plastic• Metal• Natural

Button sizeThe size of the button is measured in

“lignes”, with 40 lignes equal to diameter of 1inch.

Ex 30ligne Diameter?For irregular button, diameter measured

at the widest place.

The number of buttons on a garment depends on the

• Holding strength• Size of the button• Fit of the garment• Fashion trend

Button size for a particular garment is determined by • Number of units to be used in the style• Holding strength• Appearance desired• Fashion trend

Some types of garments may use different sizes of same button type

Applying buttonsTwo important factors• Button placement • Button attachment

A button should be positioned at

Button holes• Buttonholes while primarily functional but

can also be decorative. • Whether decorative or functional they

need to be smooth, even and secure. • A buttonhole should be long enough so

the button can slip easily through the hole without strain or excessive wear.

• Normally length of the buttonhole should be equal to the diameter of the button plus thickness of the button (if a button is of a round shape one).

• Horizontal buttonholes tend to stay buttoned.

• If the buttonhole is vertical, the button tends to slip out of the buttonhole when horizontal stress is applied.

• In tight fitting clothing or areas under stress require horizontal buttonholes to keep the garment buttoned. (coats, jackets, neckbands, cuffs, pants plackets, waistbands)

• Buttonholes should be spaced the same distance apart as the corresponding buttons (a) to avoid strain or bubbling between buttonholes (b).

Buttonhole types

• Thread buttonhole (worked)• Bound buttonhole• Looped buttonhole• Slit buttonhole (in leather garments)• In-seam or slot (cannot withstand

much stress as thread buttonholes)• Fused buttonhole

Worked button holes

Bound button holes

Looped button holesBound button holes

Piped button holes

ZIPPERS

Zippers are a fast, easy means of getting in and out of garments.

They have been widely used in ready-to-wear apparel. Because of their somewhat stiff nature, zippers are more appropriate than buttons for flat areas within garments.

Zippers are not well suited i some areas because the stiffness interferes with the intended drape of the fabric and results in zipper hump. Zipper hump is the term for a wavy zipper chain. It detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper.

Possible reasons for zipper humps• installation a zipper in a bias seam• stretching the fabric during application• zipper tape shrinkage• garment shrinkage • using a zipper in a fabric that is too soft to support a

zipper ( zipper in lightweight knits)

Zippers may:

• increase the size of an opening to allow the passage of objects

• join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment

• attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another.

• decorate an item.

Components of a Zipper• Zipper Tape• Zipper chain• Zipper slider• Zipper teeth• Tab pull• Top and bottom stops (prevent the slider

from leaving the chain at either end of the zipper)

1 top tape extension 2 top stop 3 slider 4 tab pull5 tape 6 chain width 7 bottom stop 8 bottom tape extension 9 single tape width 10 insertion pin 11 retainer box 12 reinforcement film

• Zipper chain is the part of the zipper that interlocks when the zipper is closed.

• A common problem associated with low quality zipper is ratching of zipper chain. This cannot be repaired once it occurs.

Zipper teeth

• Separate-element zippers are made up of separate teeth. If a zipper teeth breaks off or pulls away from the tape, or if teeth somehow become unmeshed below the element the zipper no longer functions.

• Continuous -element zippers or coil zippers are made by twisting a continuous strand of monofilament nylon spiral. Continuous-element zippers do not have sharp edges, so they do not snag fabric or scratch the skin as single element zippers sometimes do.

Zipper slider• The slider is the portion of the zipper that glides

up and down the chain, engaging and disengaging the two halves of the chain. The slider of the zipper has a pull or tab for easy grasping.

• Most zippers contain some sort of a locking mechanism within the slider which prevents the zipper from unzipping by itself.

Auto lockPin lockNon lock

Zipper Size • The size of a zipper is denoted by the width of the

zipper chain in millimeters. For example, a size 7 zipper has a chain 7 millimeters wide. The larger the size of the zipper chain, the larger the number of the zipper.

Zipper Length

• A zipper length is measured distance between top and bottom stops.

Zipper Types

The three main types of zippers are

(1) Conventional (2) Separating, and (3) Invisible

Conventional Zippers

A conventional zipper is by far the most common in ready-to-wear apparel. A conventional zipper has a visible chain; one end, or sometimes both ends, of the zipper remain attached when it is unzipped.

One end closed used in dress and trousersBoth ends closed pocket mouths, suit cases

Conventional zipper closed at one end Conventional zipper closed at both ends

Two way zipper with facing direction closed

Two way zipper with opposite direction closed

Closed (forming fastening)Opened completely

Separating Zipper

Invisible Zipper

Coil constructed Zipper is closed

Snaps

A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied.

Snap fasteners are often used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy for children to use.

Technically, snap fasteners are mechanical closures consisting of a closure unit and attaching unit.

There are two different types of snaps currently on the market

post-styleprong-style

A post-style snap has a shaft that requires a hole to penetrate the fabric. A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the fabric.

Snaps can be used

On garments where there is little or no strain at the opening

Where smooth flat closure is required In between buttons to prevent openings from

gapping Behind decorative buttons when there is no

button

cap

socket

stud

post

Composition of snaps

Most snaps of either steel, brass or nickel are coated with nickel, zinc or enamel paint. Steel snaps should be properly finished to prevent rusting.

Plastic snaps are an alternative to metal snaps and come in both sewn on and mechanically attached styles. The major drawback of plastic snaps is that they are not durable as metal snaps. They melt in contact with hot iron and distort when dried in excessive heat.

Snap sizeThe appropriate snap size depends upon the weight of the fabric and the location and the intended job of the snap.

Snap tape  Snap tape can be used to apply a series of snaps.

Advantages of snap tape is snaps are evenly spaced securely attached to the tape easier to apply than attaching many snaps individually.

Snap tapes few disadvantages colour choices are limited set distance between the snaps on the tape limits design

flexibility in snap placement. Another problem is that the tape used to reinforce snaps may

shrink during washing and this will result in distorting fabric and causing “snap hump”.

Some of the most common uses for prong-style snaps are

• Cardigans, shirts, vests• Lightweight jacket• Fleece garments• Children's wear • Home décor• Uniforms• Sleepwear

Post-style snaps are best used with densely woven or natural/synthetic fabrics. Some of the most common uses for post-style snaps are:

• Leather jackets • Heavy outer wear jackets • Denim jackets/jeans • Purses/bags • Boat covers

Hook & Eye

• A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts, each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the "eye" or "eyelet") protruding.

• Hooks and eyes are hidden fasteners. They can be used to hold edges together.

• Hooks and eyes are available in several sizes and colors to match different fabrics.

CompositionHooks and eyes are usually made of same metals as snaps. Bra hooks for bra backs have two or more sets of eyes for each hook so the wearer can adjust the bra to different circumferences.

UsesMost hook & eye use in stress point of the garment openings, such as at the wrist line or neckline. However they can be used to close the entire garment opening.

Hook and Eye

Nylon touch and close fasteners (VELCRO®)

This fastener consist of two strips which grip when press together by means of tine hooks on the one strip into tiny loops on the other strip. This is concealed closure and can be used only in areas that lap. For comfort manufactures usually attach the hook portion of the tape to the under lap and the loop portion to the overlap. These available in various widths and gripping strengths and holding power of the tape. A disadvantage of hook & loop tape is that it adds considerable stiffness and bulk to the garment; it is incompatible with soft fabrics because its stiffness interferes with the drape of the garment.

Uses• Can be used instead of buttons. Snaps, or hooks

and eyes• On garment details such as detachable collars,

cuffs and trimmings• On lab coats and uniforms• On belts• On garments to facilitate ease in dressing• When rapid removal of garment is desired• On closures garments made for handicapped

Miscellaneous fastening• Frog• D-Rings An effective, adjustable closure.

Require two rings to complete the closure.

• Buckles Buckles of various types, materials, shapes and sizes are used as functional fasteners and as decorative details.

• Cords or ties• Lacing• Elastics waistline of a shorts • Drawstrings

Factors governing the selection of fastening

Functional performance of findings and trims• Dimensional Stability• Shrinkage• Elongation and Elasticity• Appearance Retention• Abrasion Resistance• Colorfastness• Crocking• Heat Resistance• Comfort• Ease of Care• Safety• Strength• Resistance to Degradation