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Bangalow

delicious. Produce Awards 2013 winners, Karl and Katrina Kanetani of Town Restaurant and Cafe, show us around Bangalow, the booming foodie region in the hills around NSW’s bohemian surf haven Byron Bay.

Clockwise (from top left): Japanese figurines from Little Peach; Uptown’s rosemary panna cotta with champagne jelly and elderflower sago; Karl and Katrina Kanetani; Downtown’s strawberry and raspberry tarts; Federal Doma Cafe serves good coffee as well as Japanese fare; granitas from Top Shop; The Byron at Byron.

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Friday and Saturday night for a six-course degustation featuring local produce with influences from Karl’s Japanese heritage. The tree change has certainly paid off for the pair, who have been recognised with both local and critical acclaim, the latest of which is their win in the delicious. Produce Awards 2013 for Outstanding Use of Regional Produce by a Chef (p 25).

“We wanted to plant our roots,” adds Karl of the move. “This way we can build a reputation here and have a nice lifestyle, rather than leave all that until later. We never wanted to spend the rest of our lives in the city, but sometimes you can get trapped there. Up here, it’s just a bit more relaxed. When we finish the day, we go home and it’s very peaceful and calm.”

Home is about 10 minutes further into the hinterland, at a place called Eureka, where they have a farmhouse on five acres not too far from the small townships of Clunes and Federal.

Even in the time since they moved north, Katrina has noticed a change in the area: “Bangalow used to be a little country farming village but it’s becoming a much more popular spot for visitors.” Now, more people from Brisbane and the Gold Coast are spending weekends there, and while the restaurant is a hit with locals, they have people from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne booking as well. “There’s been a bit of a change in the dynamic,” she says. “Karl and I have a laugh now and call going to Byron Bay, ‘going into the city’.”

Here, the couple share a few of their favourite haunts, both down by the beach at Byron and further afield in the hinterland.

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MMention the words NSW North Coast to most people and they instantly picture Byron Bay. Explore a little further though – along the coast and into the hinterland – and you’ll find an increasing number of beautiful villages making their own marks on the tourist trail. One of those is Bangalow, a quiet destination surrounded by macadamia farms 15 minutes’ drive into the hills from Byron Bay.

“This area is home for me,” says Katrina Kanetani, award-winning former pastry chef at Pier Restaurant in Sydney. “I did my apprenticeship in Byron Bay and I love it.”

Two years ago, she and Karl Kanetani, her Japanese-Hawaiian husband who trained at Tetsuya’s, had just returned from a stint in Hawaii where their plans of opening a business there were foiled by the failing economy. They came to visit Katrina’s family – her mum, a sister and various cousins are still residents in the area – and found well-known restaurant Satiate for sale. “Having our own restaurant was just a natural progression for us, so we jumped at it,” says Katrina. Now, Town Restaurant and Cafe (33 Byron St, Bangalow; townbangalow.com.au) is open seven days a week – ‘Downtown’ (downstairs cafe) for breakfast through to afternoon tea, and Uptown (upstairs restaurant) Thursday,

1. Locavores Katrina and Karl Kanetani’s Town Restaurant and Cafe. 2. Tallow Beach. 3. Chicken katsu-don from Federal Doma Cafe. 4. The vibrant hills of Mullumbimby.

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with locals dropping by for the crispy thin bases finished off with produce from the region.

Katrina also recommends the Eltham Hotel (441 Eltham Rd, Eltham; elthampub.com.au) “It’s become a real favourite and a bit of a local. They do traditional pub food – a good steak and

fish and chips – as well as some more interesting stuff,” with a frequently updated and seasonal menu, as well as specials that change daily. By the time you’re reading this, the pub’s woodfired oven should be installed so they will also be offering calzone, freshly baked bread and slow-roasted meat.

Targa (11 Marvell St, Byron Bay; targabyronbay.com), an Italian cafe by day and a la carte restaurant at night, is one of the Kanetanis regular Byron Bay

haunts. “I usually have the spaghetti alle vongole,” says Karl. “It’s simple clam pasta, but the service and food here are always really consistent. That’s what we look for – consistency, good quality and good flavours.” There’s a lunchtime blackboard menu, or for dinner try the house-made pappardelle or risotto with Yamba prawns, scallops, bottarga, fennel and basil.

Where TO eATWith Karl’s heritage, both he and Katrina are always eager to find great Japanese offerings. Luckily, explains Katrina, “the Byron Bay surf is a bit of a drawcard for Japanese surfers, then the chefs decide to stay and open restaurants.” A new one in Federal, about a 12km drive north-west of Bangalow, is Federal Doma Cafe (3 Albert St, Federal; (02) 6688 4711). Only open during the day, it has a good range of Japanese dishes. “The miso soup is really rustic and chunky, and not like any I’ve ever had before,” says Katrina. “Karl tells me that’s country-style miso soup.” Another relative newcomer is Izakaya Yu (1/53 Stuart St, Mullumbimby; izakayayu.com.au). “It has a beautiful Japanese fitout and good vibe,” says Katrina. Chefs Kaneyuki Hayase, Taka Nakase and Masami have created a modern menu featuring tataki, sashimi, hand rolls and sharing plates, like teriyaki chicken wings. “The flavours are really true for me,” adds Karl of the two restaurants. “They’re both run by Japanese guys, so the flavours are authentic.”

Some have made the bold claim that Milk and Honey (5/59 Station St, Mullumbimby; (02) 6684 1422) makes the best woodfired pizza in NSW. It’s certainly a buzzy spot,

“Up here it’s just a bit more relaxed. When we finish the day, we go home and it’s very peaceful and calm.”

1. The bar of Italian restaurant Targa. 2 & 3. Friendly service at Izakaya Yu and its dish of green seaweed. 4. Head to Milk and Honey for top woodfired pizza.

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While Targa is right in the hub of Byron, another of the town’s treasures is located further out in a more residential area. Top Shop (65 Carlyle St, Byron Bay; (02) 6685 6495) has long been a favourite with local surfers who drop by for milkshakes and sausage rolls to refuel after being out on the water, but the current owners, brothers Andy and Charlie Gordon, have lifted the corner store’s game. “They do great coffee, and excellent burgers and pastries,” says Katrina. The burgers, in fact, are made from ingredients bought at local farmers’ markets.

Where TO DrINKReally late nights in this part of the world are the domain of Byron Bay, where you can find a breadth of nightlife, from chic cocktail bars to pub rock. But for chefs who work on the busiest nights of the week, enjoying that nightlife doesn’t happen very often. When it does, they head to St Elmo (cnr Fletcher St and Lawson Ln, Byron Bay; stelmodining.com). “There’s a good selection of lovely cocktails and wines,” says Katrina of the list that includes some biodynamic and organic varieties.

Try the likes of the chilli and lemongrass margarita, and peach and lychee martini to keep with the beachy, tropical vibe.

Just up the road from Town is Bangalow Hotel (1 Byron St, Bangalow; bangalowhotel.com.au), an old-school pub at the top of the main street, with a covered deck and verandahs for enjoying the fresh air and sunshine.

The Byron at Byron (77–97 Broken Head Rd, Byron Bay; thebyronatbyron.com.au) is one of the area’s most luxurious retreats. But if you’re not staying there, you can still enjoy the ambience. “You can go for cocktails, overlooking the pool and the rainforest – it’s a beautiful relaxing spot,” says Katrina. Happy hour is from 4.30 to 6pm, Sunday to Thursday.

Where TO ShOPAnyone who has ever visited Bangalow will know the village is dotted with boutiques and stores that make it hard to resist treating yourself to a present or two. “Karl and I have recently been setting up our house – an old farmhouse,” says Katrina. “We’ve been buying furniture and rugs, which explains why some of these places have become our favourite shops. But all the little shops are unique and interesting.”

Stuart Pratley took over Bangalow’s former Masonic Hall for his store Polish (16 Station St, Bangalow; polishatbyron.com). “He does beautiful wooden furniture and antiques.”

1. Island Luxe is stocked with fashion, gifts and furniture. 2. Stuart Pratley in his beautiful antiques store, Polish.

3. Japanese textiles at Little Peach. 4. Local favourite Top Shop. 5. The landscaped gardens of Bangalow Guesthouse.

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If you’re in the market for functional antique pieces, it’s worth visiting Polish to see what’s in stock.

“Everyone just calls it the Bangalow rug shop,” says Katrina of Milton Cater Oriental Carpets (11 Byron St, Bangalow; orientalcarpets.com.au). “The owners travel overseas and find the most beautiful things.” The specialty is old and antique rugs, mainly from the Middle East, but you can also buy more contemporary designs.

Housed in a warehouse is Heath’s Old Wares (12 Station St, Bangalow; heathsoldwares.com.au), with its vast range of industrial antiques, retro and vintage pieces, and collectables. “You can really find some great stuff there,” says Katrina.

A favourite with visiting stylists is Island Luxe (62 Byron St, Bangalow; (02) 6687 1605). “It just has really beautiful things,” says Katrina. The epitome of a lifestyle store, Island Luxe is stocked with holiday and beachwear, gifts and even covetable furniture.

Another favourite is Little Peach (17 Byron St, Bangalow; littlepeach.com.au), which has all sorts of Japanese fashion and homewares, including beautiful pottery and textiles.

In her search of items for their restaurant and house, Katrina also came across Fabulous Mrs Fox (10 Park St; (02)

6685 0200) a little further afield in Brunswick Heads. “It has become my absolute favourite,” she says. “It has a really eclectic collection of furniture, jewellery and glassware, but it tends more to the vintage side.” Owners Jo and Will White display bits and pieces they’ve collected while travelling in a really quirky fashion, but also stock the works of new artists.

PLACeS TO STAY“There are lots of little guest houses around Bangalow,” says Katrina. Among her top recommendations is Bangalow Guesthouse (99 Byron St, Bangalow; bangalowguesthouse.com.au). Its four ensuite rooms all have elegant, contemporary styling, and the shaded verandahs overlook the trim lawns and gardens, as well as Byron Creek. Breakfast is served each morning, and an afternoon pick-me-

up of tea, coffee and freshly baked cakes is also available. High on top of a hill with gorgeous valley views is

SummerHills Retreat Byron Bay (100 Binna Burra Rd, Bangalow; summerhills.com). There are just eight bedrooms – all with spa baths – spread across a series of luxury Tuscan-styled cabins and apartments. Relax by the swimming pool or enjoy a walk through the tropical gardens. d.

BuY LOCALFresh veg, locally grown coffee, honey, macadamias and all sorts of rainforest fruits can be found at local markets throughout the week. Byron Farmers’ Market (Butler Street Reserve; byron farmersmarket.com.au) is on Thursdays from 8am–11am. Mullumbimby Farmers’ Market (Mullumbimby Showgrounds; mullumfarmersmarket.org.au) takes over from 7am–11am on Fridays. Bangalow Farmers’ Markets (behind Bangalow Hotel; byronfarmersmarket.com.au) is held 8am–11am Saturdays. “All the farmers and growers in the area go to these markets. We buy a lot of produce at Bangalow Market for the restaurant,” says Katrina. Keep your eyes out for two of Katrina’s favourite producers – Bangalow Cheese Company and Rainforest Foods.

“Bangalow is dotted with boutiques that make it hard to resist treating yourself to a present or two.”