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Europe, France, England and Spain dominated during the 17th century. The 17th

century was also called the Baroque period, transitioning from Mannerism, led by the

Italians (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). This style spread throughout Europe and across the

Alps. Louis XIV dominated this period in France. His magnificent court he established was

one that other European monarchs would aspire, but never equal (Tortora & Eubank,

2005). Louis XIV kept his court busy. Too busy waiting on him, his noblemen had no time

to plot against him (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Even though he was overly ambitious,

starting wars and gaining alliances, King Louis XIV set the standard for absolute monarchy

in Europe.

France set high standards, but for some countries, doing this was more difficult. The

English monarchy had trouble due to conflicts with the church. During James I’s reign, the

Puritans, a large religious faction within the Church of England, began to grow (Tortora &

Eubank, 2005). In American history, Puritans have also been known as “the pilgrims.” The

Puritans disagreements with James’s religious policy caused them to flee to Holland, then

later set sail to the New World in 1620 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

In the beginning the Puritans strived through difficult conditions, but later after

settling, they grew into their own fashion. One style of dress, as show in image 1.1, is an

open overskirt that shows the decorative underskirt beneath. This was a typical feature of

this time; a U or V shaped bodice with a skirt that reveals a skirt underneath. This reveal

seems to be an inspiration from the 17th century in this pictorial in the August 2010 issue of

InStyle, image 1.2. Prabal Gurung’s maroon dress reveals a deep purple fabric underneath.

The deep purple fabric acts as a decoration, much like dress designs of this period.

Image 1.2 (above) (Tortora & Eubank, 2005)

Image 2.2 (above) (InStyle, 2010)

The Rococo period began when Louis XV became king of France at the age of only

five. His reign at an early age led to later laziness in his governing of France. He focused

more on his own entertainment and affairs: hunting and women, instead of the affairs of

state. France engaged in costly wars, “which brought little but defeat and debt” (Tortora &

Eubank, 2005, p.226). Louis XV never solved the ‘fiscal crisis’ which clearly did not reflect

his lavish court and lifestyle. When he died in 1774, he was “more hated and despised than

any other French king for many generations” (Tortora & Eubank, 2005, p.226).

Despite the France’s financial condition, its culture remained dominant in western

Europe. “France still set the style in fashion, literature, decorative arts, and in philosophical

theories” (Tortora & Eubank, 2005, p.226). Louis XVI, the grandson of Louis XV, succeeded

him on the throne. He married the Austrian princess, Marie Antoinette. She was unpopular

because of her “intense dislike for the customs and etiquette of the French court” (Tortora

& Eubank, 2005, p.226). People did little to support the monarchy because of her

unpopularity, thus during the French Revolution. Radicals ended the revolution and

executed the king and queen in 1793 (Tortora & Eubank 2005).

One of the most influential women during this period was the mistress of King Louis

XV, Madame Pompadour. Despite her unpopularity, Queen Marie Antoinette was also

influential in fashion of the time, known as the Rococo period. “The word rococo is derived

from the term rocaille, a form of intricate shellwork decoration” (Batterberry & Ruskin,

1982, p.157). This decoration was often revealed on the stomachers of a gowns known as

the gown à la fran·çaise, which had a tight fitted bodice. The stomacher was a “triangle of

richly decorated material that might be a ladder of bows” (Batterberry & Ruskin, 1982,

p.159). Image 2.1 is the portrait of Mme, de Pompadour by François Boucher dressed in the

famous robe à la fran·çaise (Batterberry & Ruskin, 1982). Shown in Image 2.2 is a model

for a gap ad in a white blouse and black sweater. The ruffles in the front resemble the

decoration of bows that were on the stomacher during the Rococo period. Many blouses

and dresses have fabric that resemble the decorations on the stomacher once seen during

the Rococo period on the gown à la fran·çaise.

Image 2.1

(Batterberry, 1982)

Image 2.2

(People Style Watch, 2010)

The French Revolution marks the beginning of the Directoire Period. France was

burdened by crippled economy due to high employment and high prices, along with a

bankrupt government (Eubank & Tortora, 2005). These conditions started a revolution by

the urban bourgeoisie, even though the peasants received the most unjust taxation. In

1789, King Louis XVI gathered together the Estates General, a group of French citizens to

help solve the financial crisis (Eubank & Tortora, 2005). Each three Estates were required

to wear different costumes. The clergy wore clothing traditional to their ranks. The

aristocrats wore “black silk coats and waistcoats trimmed with gold braid, black silk

breeches, white stockings, lace cravats, hats with feathers of the Order of St. Esprit, and

black silk cloaks” (Tortora & Eubank, 2005, p.262). The largest group, men who were

upper middle class to peasants, were told to dress simple in all black suits, capes, stockings,

three-‐cornered hats, and plain muslin cravats. Many of the Third Estate refused and the

regulations were then abolished (Tortora & Eubank, 2005, p.262). After this session, the

self-‐proclaimed “National Assembly” attempted to reform France. However, war broke out

in 1792 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

Women’s fashion didn’t change radically during the Revolution. However, after the

Revolution began to settle, there was a rapid change in the silhouette of women’s dresses.

New trends first seen in England became fashionable. These trends were “based on

Ancient Greek forms and cut with little or no sleeve, a low, round neckline, and a high waist,

the dress fell straight to the floor” (Tortora & Eubank, 2005, p.263). These fabrics were

soft, clingy and made of muslin or linen. Often times these dresses were sheer.

Image 3.1 shows a dress worn by women of this time with an “elevated waistline”

and a “soft gathered skirt with a narrower silhouette.” A modern look, worn by Camilla

Belle (image 3.2), clearly resembles the silhouette of the Directoire period. Her dress, by

Yves Saint Laurent, has a high waistline, is gathered by a black bow, and has a soft flowing

layered skirt. Despite not having sleeves, the neckline is low and he gown also falls to the

floor. All of these elements in the YSL gown clearly resemble silhouette during the

Directoire period.

Image 3.2 (InStyle, 2010)

Image 3.1 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005)

The Romantic Period lasted from 1820 to 1850. Romantic art and literature

appealed to emotion, sentiment, and feeling. Early in the Romantic Period, King George IV

ruled France, but because of his unpopularity, his brother William IV succeeded him in

1830 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). After William IV died, his niece, Victoria became queen.

She ruled after the Romantic Period, until 1901, and honorably restored the monarchy

(Tortora & Eubank, 2005). This regained a sense of respect and adoration from the English

people.

In France, a rebellion occurred which was shown not only through political actions

but dress style as well. A revolution began after Charles X succeeded his brother, Louis

XVII in 1824 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). His inability to use common sense started an

uproar in France. The French Revolution then had a serious outbreak when leaders of the

bourgeoise tried to replace Charles X with Louis Philippe, the Duke of Orleans (Tortora &

Eubank, 2005). Philippe was too conservative and not willing to conform which led to this

outbreak of the French revolution. The revolution affected not only France, but Austria, the

German states, and Italy (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). During the Romantic Period, unlike

England, France was at unrest.

Finally during the Romantic Period, the United States was expanding westward.

Texas was annexed while New Mexico and California became a part of the United States

(Tortora & Eubank, 2005). In the South cotton became a source of wealth, but with cotton

there was more slavery. Abolitionist, or those who opposed slavery, started a movement of

over two million in 1840 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). This ultimately led to a division of the

United States during the Civil War which followed the Romantic Period.

One symbol of the Romantic Period were the different types of sleeves. The Victoria

sleeve had a puff at the elbow. The new style had a funnel or bell shape halfway between

the elbow or wrist (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Pictured in image 4.1 is the Victoria Sleeve.

In image 4.2 and 4.3, is an Yves Saint Lauren ad seen in the August 2010 issue of InStyle.

The glove begins from the top of the elbow with the same funnel as once worn with the

Victoria Sleeve. The InStyle ad, clearly seems to use the Victoria sleeve as an influence for

the glove in the outfit.

Image 4.2 (left), Image 4.3 (above)

(InStyle, 2010)

IMAGE 4.1 (ABOVE) (TORTORA & EUBANK, 2005)

The Bustle Period lasted from 1870 to 1890. At the start of the period an industrial

revolution in England was about to boom, along with the extension of voting rights and

legislation that improved the living and sanitary condition in the slums (Tortora & Eubank,

2005). In France there was still no peace. During the beginning of the Romantic Period,

France was in the midst of the Franco-‐Prussian war (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Meanwhile,

the United States had final settled. The Civil War had ended and industrialization,

urbanization, and immigration were booming but only causing problems with poverty and

labor strife (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

A change in attitude was seen during the Bustle Period. The United States went

from being rural to more urbanized while Europe was seeing more lavish styles (Tortora &

Eubank, 2005). Also, in the United States, the workforce began to change. Although fathers

were head of the household, women began joining the workforce and more “ready to wear”

outfits began to appear (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

The shaping of the fullness gowns changed from the Crinoline Period to the Bustle

Period. Before, the fullness was supported by cage crinoline, but during the Bustle Period a

narrow, cuirass bodice was full from below the hips shown in image 5.1 (Tortora & Eubank,

2005). In image 5.2 and 5.3 are a contemporary floral dress pictured from the July 2010

issue of Glamour magazine. The bodice clearly resembles the bustle during this period. The

tool in image 5.3 creates the fullness around the hips. This style of dress reflects the

women’s fashion during the Bustle Period.

Image 5.1

(Tortora & Eubank, 2005)

Image 5.2 & 5.3 (Below)

(Glamour, 2010)

The 1920s began with the end of World War I. Business was booming from 1923 to

1927 in the United States. Not all American’s saw this prosperity. American farmers faced

problems with the demand for agricultural products and the export market dropping off,

creating a surplus (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Because of the problems with agricultural

products, manufactured products became more popular. The use of rayon increased while

cotton declined (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Electrical devices and every day devices were

sold in large quantities. Among radios, rayon, cigarettes, cosmetics, and other electronical

devices, automobiles were leading in sales (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

The social climate also changed during the 20s. The social roles of women were

questioned and challenged. Sigmund Freud made a disturbing notion such as sexual

theories and the changing social roles of women (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). The youth of

the 20s reacted by revolutionizing their roles and morals. Before World War I there were

expected behaviors of “ladies,” such as women were not supposed to smoke, drink, or see

young men unchaperoned (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). This all changed during the 1920s.

Women broke all rules and their opposition became clear through their fashion. Some

were even nicknamed “flappers” (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

Evening dresses during this period were short, often made with heavily beaded

fabrics, as shown in image 6.1 These had elements of the Art Deco style in the geometric

patterning (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). In image 6.2 is Heidi Klum featured in the April 2008

issue of InStyle. She wears a modern take on this 1920s evening wear look. He dress is

significantly shorter than the dresses of the time, but is heavily beaded with a similar

pattern. Her look was clearly influenced from this dress style of the 20s.

Image 6.1 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005)


The prosperity bubble burst at the end of the 1920’s leading into the 30s and a

period known as the Great Depression. The Great Depression was caused by the stock

market crash on October 29, 1929 (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Recovery never came and

Americans began to suffer. Farmers were indirectly affected. They didn’t participate in the

prosperity of the 1920s but were devastated by the natural disasters occurred, including

dust storms and floods (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

Although most Americans were suffering, not everyone was poor. Some managed to

stay wealthy during the Depression and were publicized through fashion magazines. This

group of people was featured in Vogue, Bazaar, and Esquire seen vacationing in places such

as Palm Springs or on the Riviera (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). These people stood out in the

spot light while the rest of America was grim during the time of the Depression.

Overseas other countries felt the Depression. Germany fell victim in 1933 when

Austrian-‐Born Adolf Hitler, leader of the Nazi party came into power (Tortora & Eubank,

2005). With Germany led by Hitler, taking over other countries, a war began to stir.

“World War II began on September 1, 1939, with the German invasion of Poland” (Tortora

& Eubank, 2005, p. 389). While conflict brewed between other countries, the United States

stayed out of the war. However, by the late 1930s and into the 1940s, the Japanese were

convinced that the United States blocked their path to an empire in Asia, and on December

7, 1941, attacked Pearl Harbor (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). After that attack the United

States could no longer sit and watch, but get involved in World War II. With the war

beginning for the United States and industrial production booming, recovery began.

During the Depression, some of the wealthy continued to strive through the

economy crashing. Debutaunt, Brenda Fraier, was among one of the rich that were caught

in the eye of the public (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). She helped to publicize the strapless

evening gown during this time, pictured in image 7.1. This style still lives on today. In

image 7.2 is a Target ad, featured in the May 2010 issue of Vanity Fair displaying a strapless

evening gown which was popularized during the 1930s.

Image 7.1 (above) (LIFE, 1938)

Image 7.2 (above) (Vanity Fair, 2010)

This period began with the devastation of Europe after World War II. “European

countries were vulnerable to Soviet domination because of their need to repair their war-‐

damaged economies” (Tortora & Eubank 428). With ties to Europe, the United States

helped aid repairing their economies. In 1948, the Marshall Plan helped restore the

economic well being of Europe (Tortora & Eubank 2005). This aid brought the United

States and Europe together to form an alliance. NATO was formed in 1949 to deter the

Soviets from further aggression (NATO Created). Even after the death of Soviet Dictator

Josef Stalin, the Soviet Union still remained in control of its new empire.

In the United States, President Harry Truman took office. One of his first decisions

was to order destruction. The atomic bomb was dropped on Japan which proved to be no

match for the Soviets when Americans learned that they had exploded an atomic device in

Siberia (Tortora & Eubank 2005). The United States and Soviet Union took turns dropping

bombs. In 1952 the first American H-‐bomb was exploded and in 1952 the Soviets exploded

their hydrogen bomb (Tortora & Eubank 2005). With the Cold War continuing, within the

United States was chaos. Senator Joseph McCarthy sparked a crisis. He exploited fears of a

communist plot and “issued charges that numbers of communist agents were in the

Department of State” (Tortora & Eubank 429). The end of this period also ended in crisis

with social protest and civil rights issues.

The New Look was the name given to this time period because of the new direction

of fashion. TV shows, such as I Love Lucy, had a great impact on fashion. Her pregnancy

was incorporated into the show and attention was paid to her maternity clothes (Tortora &

Eubank 2005). Designers showed an interest in these clothes. During the “baby boom,”

designers like Miguel Dorian of Spain designed lines of maternity clothing, shown in image

8.1 (Tortora & Eubank 2005). Maternity clothing is popular and worn today. A

Motherhood Maternity and A Pea in the Pod ad is featured in the December 2010 issue of

Glamour magazine (image 8.2). Because of previous influences, maternity clothes can be

fashionable for all pregnant women.

Image 8.1 (above) (Tortora & Eubank, 2005)

Image 8.2 (right) (Glamour, 2010)

“Upheaval” is a single word that could be used to describe the 1960’s. The civil

rights movement, student unrest, women’s liberation, and America’s opposition to the war

in Vietnam are the some of the large events that mark this period (Tortora & Eubank,

2005). The Soviet Union appeared to be ahead of the times. In 1957, the first satellite

orbited the earth and the Space Age had begun (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). By the late

1960’s the United States caught up with the Soviet Union’s technology. President Kennedy

vowed to have the first man on the moon by 1970, and did so in 1969, catching up to the

Soviet’s technology (Tortora & Eurbank, 2005).

During the 1960’s Japan took notice as an economic power to other countries

around the world. “The Japanese invested in new technologies to make their production

cheaper and more efficient” (Tortora & Eubank, 458). Japanese products were sold around

the world. Japanese products included computers, cameras, binoculars, radios, tape

recorders, and automobiles (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). America and Europe took

advantage in the growing success of Japan’s technological advances. Clothing firms utilized

high-‐quality natural and manufactured textile fabrics (Tortora & Eubank, 2005).

During the 60’s the United States was going through many radical changes. The

decade began with the election of President John F. Kennedy and shortly after, his

assassination. President Kennedy’s death did not halt the civil rights movement. Over

25,000 demonstrators gathered to see Martin Luther King give his famous “I have a dream”

speech (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). Before and after King’s death upheaval continued with

the civil rights movement, the war in Vietnam, social protest movements and the changing

of the roles of women in social life. Fashion for women changed drastically changed as the

60s ended and the 70s and millions of women began to join the workforce (Tortora &

Eubank 2005).

Part of the controversy in the fashion of the 1960’s was skirt length. Pantsuits

became more popular that skirt suits because it solved the problem of what length to wear

effectively (Tortora & Eubank, 2005). A type of pantsuit that was worn as evening wear

were the “palazzo pajamas,” or palazzo pants. Pictured in image 9.1 are the palazzo pants

worn during the 1960’s. Shown in images 9.2 and 9.3 is Joy Bryant wearing a Missoni

jumpsuit featured in InStyle’s May 2009 issue. Her outfit is described as a “onesie.” The

pant legs mixed with a sleek look are an influence of the palazzo pants of the sixties.

Image 9.1 (above) (Glamoursurf, 2010)



The beginning of the 1970s continued as a social upheaval. This was caused by

several major events during this period. The first was the War in Vietnam. It began in fear

of the repercussions if another country came under Communist rule when President

Kennedy sent aid to the South Vietnamese government (Tortora & Eubank 2005). It

continued with what seemed to be no resolution in sight. Strong feelings of anger and

resentment broke out. Richard Nixon was slow in the process of pulling out of the region

(Schmidt 2000).

Another event that occurred in the United States was the Watergate scandal.

Nixon’s friends and staff, as an attempt to win his reelection, brok into the Democratic

Party offices in the Watergate building (Schmidt 2000). This crisis contributed to the loss

of confidence in American leaders. During this decade however, through the women’s

movement and the environmental movement, showed Americans they could still

confidently shape their futures. The use of the birth control gave women the greater choice

if she was going to follow a career or become a mother (Schmidt 2000). This led to more

women going to college, starting careers, and working full-‐time.

Disco looks began as a part of fashion in the 1970s. One signature garment, were

the hot pants. These were often hot strident colors paired with stretch sequin bandeau

tops (70s Disco Fashion 2010), as shown in image 10.1. Kimora Lee Simmon’s (images 10.2

and 10.3) ad from the June 2010 issue of Cosmopolitan follows this 70s trend exactly. She

wears brightly colored short shorts, or hot pants. These are worn with a bright colored

bandeau top. Her outfit was inspired by the disco look nearly from head to toe.

Image 10.1 (left) (Tortora & Eubank, 2005)

IMAGE 10.2 & 10.3 (COSMOPOLITAN, 2010)

"70s Disco Fashion, Mini Dress, Maxi, Platform Soled Shoes." Fashion History Costume Trends and

Eras, Trends Victorians - Haute Couture. 2010. Web. Retrieved December 7, 2010.

<http://www.fashion-‐era.com/1970s.htm>.

Batterberry, Michael, and Ariane Ruskin. Batterberry. Fashion, the Mirror of History. New York:

Greenwich House, 1982. Print.

"NATO Created." American History and World History at Historycentral.com the Largest and Most

Complete History Site on the Web. Web. Retrieved December 7, 2010.

<http://www.historycentral.com/Europe/NATO.html>.

Schmidt, Mark Ray. The 1970s. San Diego, CA: Greenhaven, 2000. Print.

Tortora, P, & Eubank, K. (2005). Survey of historic costume: a history of western dress. Fairchild

Books.

(2008, April). InStyle, 142

(2009, may). InStyle, 100

(2010, May). Vanity Fair, 24

(2010, June), Cosmopolitan, 69

(2010, July). Glamour, 150.

(2010, August). InStyle, 31,55, 235

(2010, September). People Style Watch, 12

(2010, December). Glamour, 58.

Batterberry, Michael, and Ariane Ruskin. Batterberry. Fashion, the Mirror of History. New York:

Greenwich House, 1982. Print.

LIFE - Your World in Pictures. Web. Retrieved December 7, 2010. <http://www.life.com/>.

Tortora, P, & Eubank, K. (2005). Survey of historic costume: a history of western dress. Fairchild

Books.

"Vintage 60s Floral Palazzo Pants Jumpsuit Lounger." Welcome to Glamoursurf - Vintage Swimsuits

& Lingerie. Web. Retrieved December 6, 2010. <http://www.glamoursurf.com/>.

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