CIEE Khon Kaen Newsletter--2008--SP--No. 2

We are 24 i.n.d.i.v.i.d.u.a.l.s struggling to unite with each other,

with Thailand, and with the world. This is our story thus far...

Wow Saa Saa Volume VII Issue 2 CIEE Thailand Spring 2008

Volume VII Issue 2 CIEE Thailand Spring 2008

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Letter from the EditorsFriends, Family and Advisors,

Sawatdeeka from Khon Kaen, Thailand! We are pleased to present to you a collection of our writings, thoughts and photos from the past month.

Our student group is comprised of 24 students, from all over the United States. Our majors range from Environmental Science to International Affairs to Econometrics. Our interests are diverse and plenty; in any given night you can fi nd someone Muy Thai boxing, salsa dancing, or drawing.

Our program of study at Khon Kaen University focuses on development and globalization. Our experience in the classroom is supplemented by week-long homestays in areas affected by the development projects we are currently studying.

Recently, the group traveled south to Surin province, near the border of Cambodia, to live with members of the organic agriculture movement. We then headed north to Udon Thani province, near the border of Laos, to live with villagers affected by a potash mine project. These trips are heartbreaking for some, emotional for many and inspiring to all.

The newsletter focuses mainly on our experiences both during and after the trips. Included are news articles published in local newspapers, journal entries, our favorite photos and memorable quotes.

This issue of the “Wow Saa Saa” newsletter is dedicated to all of our wonderful Ajaans (professors) and program facilitators who spent countless hours working to make our experience unforgettable. So thank you!

Our cover reads, “We are 24 individuals, struggling to unite with each other, with Thailand, and with the world. This is our story thus far…” We hope you enjoy!

Sincerely,

CIEE Spring 2008 Editors

Jessica Fisher, Leslie Garrison, Kaitlin Muench & Caroline Silver


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One organic coconut – 5 baht. One head of organic lettuce – 7 baht. A kilo of organic Hom Mali rice – 128 baht. Knowing that his family is healthy – priceless. Fifteen years ago, Som Sanomsuk, an organic farmer in Surin, did the unthinkable in the farming profession – he lowered his yield. Most people thought he was crazy, Som recalls with a smile. “I’m not crazy,” he chuckles, “I’m better off now than I ever was before.” In 1992, Som and twelve of his fellow villagers abandoned chemical fertilizers in favor of organic farming. Organic farming is much more labor intensive and often produces lower annual yields. The switch to organic is diffi cult and requires training. Furthermore, organic certifi cation requires two to three years, a lengthy process that many farmers cannot fi nancially survive. Som sees the situation differently. “I don’t think of [the switch from chemical to organic farming] as a struggle, its more like exercising – we are becoming body builders.” He goes on to explain that despite the intense manual labor required to be a successful organic farmer, he knows that the benefi ts of going organic outweigh the diffi culties.

Som and other villagers saw fi rsthand the destruction chemical farming was causing to the soil and the local community. “We realized,” explains fellow organic farmer Toma Brinying, “that before chemical fertilizer, the land and the crops and the people were healthier.” Som’s village in Surin province is part of a growing trend in organic farming in northeastern Thailand. It is the center of an organic agriculture support network that promotes organic farming through a weekly Green Market in Surin City and with the help of Surin Farmer Support, a local Non-Governmental Organization. Yet, Som and his fellow organic farmers face an uphill battle. Despite boasting itself as the “organic province of Thailand,” only 1% of farmland in Surin

is organic. Many chemical farmers, “don’t believe us, they still use chemical fertilizers because they haven’t felt the effects [of the chemicals] directly yet” laments Som. Often, wind blows chemicals from other fi elds over Som’s rice and vegetables, ruining the organic crop for that season. Government campaigns to promote organic farming are often ineffective. “Many community leaders still use chemical fertilizer and argue that they have the right to do what they want on their lands because otherwise they can’t reach expected yields,” explains Toma.

However, clarifi es Som, the decrease in yield is only short term. Yields decrease for the fi rst two to three years during organic training and certifi cation, “yet we are back to over 90% of our previous yields now,” he proudly states. Som’s village vows to continue to promote organic farming. “We won’t stop now; we want to expand our agriculture support network because we want people to be aware of the environment and have long-term health security for our communities.” It’s about 2pm on a Saturday and the weekly Green Market in Surin City is about to close. Som’s stand is nearly sold out. His net profi t that morning? About 200 baht from coconuts, vegetables and rice. “Price,” he enlightens, “is less important than the long-term environmental effects of chemicals.” Now that’s something to sink your teeth into.

The Healthy Heart of Organic FarmingKaitlin Muench; The George Washington University

“I saw rows of undistinguishable meats and pig’s heads sticking out from beneath the fl esh.”


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Under the UmbrellasAlicia Rice; Santa Clara University

I often think that looking up is a forgotten activity. We all tend to be so wrapped up in the bustle of daily life that we overlook the fact that there’s a whole world up there. Walking through the market, I glanced up and found myself enclosed in a world sheltered by hundreds of umbrellas. There were scores of colors blending together with streams of sunlight peaking through cracks; shining down on vendors and busy street shoppers. When I could fi nally peel my eyes away from the majestic world above me, I watched a woman in a turquoise sweatshirt and pants awkwardly move her body, in what I can only assume was a dance, in order to sell the CD’s that were placed before her. I turned my head to see a woman with a bucket of frogs, skinning each one faster than I could skin an orange. I saw rows of undistinguishable meats and pig’s

heads sticking out from beneath the fl esh. I saw a little girl hiding behind her father’s stand; a shopper trying to bargain down the price of used shoes; a vendor setting out bundles of vegetables they bought at four that morning – and I had only been walking for fi ve minutes. It is diffi cult to focus on all of the intricacies found within this lively microcosm, as shoppers’ rush around and motorcycles zoom by. But, as someone with a keen sense

of observation, I’ve found that a Khon Kaen market is one of the most joyous places to be. There are so many seemingly trivial details that make up the full picture of what a daily market is. The sights, sounds, and smells blend together to create an atmosphere that cannot be found in my home-state of California. While I am here, I hope to remember to experience all of the little details that make the market so unique for me. And of course, I won’t forget to look up.

Pig’s Head in the MarketPhoto by: Caroline Silver; Barnard College

“Meet Yaii. THE coolest woman I’ve met thus far in Thailand.” - Kaitlin Muench; The George Washington University


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Thailand Lesson #216: Yaii always wins. First off, in case you aren’t familiar with the Thai language “yaii” means paternal grandmother. Secondly, Thai grandmothers are feisty! During my last home stay in Udon Thani, February 29th through March 4th, I had a blast getting to know my host grandmother. Kaitlin Muench (my CIEE roommate for the homestay) and I quickly found out that our Yaii was bound and determined to fatten us up. The fi rst night we stayed with Yaii she piled a mountain of rice the size of Everest into our bowls and proceeded to place them in front of us. I looked at it and thought “Oh No!” Rule #3 of Thailand is don’t eat too much the fi rst night of a homestay. Otherwise your family will think you eat that much every night and you will be forced to eat that much every night there after. I didn’t want to offend Yaii so I took all the rice. Yaii won. The second day Kaitlin and I devised a plan to stop Yaii from stuffi ng us; I planned to sit next to the rice and serve it to everyone. Well, it worked... for a while. Unfortunately, Yaii sat on the other side of the rice bowl and after we had eaten our moderately sized proportions of rice that I had served up, Yaii grabbed the spoon and plopped another big pile of rice onto our plates. Round 2: Yaii wins again! By the third day Kaitlin and I could hardly stand the sight of rice let alone eat it; we were bound and determined to win the rice war against Yaii. Our new plan was for each of us to sit on a side of the rice so Yaii couldn’t reach the bowl to serve us. Our plan worked fl awlessly, Yaii never had a chance! Round 3: the farang pulls through! (Farang is the Thai word for foreigner) We won just this one battle, but Yaii had certainly won the war. Another Thailand lesson learned.

Yaii Always Wins

Rachel Wobeter; Luther College


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Journal EntryCaroline Silver; Barnard College

Government Support?Dylan Cook; Southerm Illinois University

“Anyone can say anything,” states a villager attending the Surin Environmental Club’s ten year anniversary celebration. The comment came on the heels of Surin’s Governor, claiming that within the year he would ensure a market price of 13 baht per kilo for organic jasmine rice. Organic farmers, club members, and villagers alike are becoming increasingly cynical about the government’s commitment to the organic movement in Surin Province located in southern Isaan. Organic farming started gaining villager support in the wake of serious environmental repercussions and health issues related to chemical fertilizers. The early 1970’s hailed the Green Revolution’s chemical fertilizers and pesticides to Northeastern Thailand. Government sponsorship, higher crop yields, and increased profi ts stimulated the spread of chemical aggregates across the region. However, a few villagers began to notice the negative consequences of such practices and made the switch back to organic farming. Slowly but steadily, more farmers began to join those already engaged in organic agriculture. The movement gained support and

began to formally organize. In 1999, the Surin government announced its intention to support these farmers, advocating the movement towards a more environmentally friendly method of agriculture. It is this intention that brought the Governor to the Environmental Club’s anniversary celebration in the Thap Thai village. He came to demonstrate his continued support for the work and risks of those engaged in the transition to organic farming. His speech to the 300 in

attendance reiterated the government’s solidarity and hinted at the activities taking place in the political world. These include the 13 baht per kilo price increase and the claim that forty-percent of next year’s budget will be spent on issues pertaining to organic agriculture. Additionally, the government

Green Market, Surin ProvincePhoto by Caroline Silver


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claims to have implemented a string of programs to encourage Surin farmers to adopt organic farming. There is a School for Farmers which teaches those interested how to practice sustainable agriculture. There has also been the development of a new government department focusing on the cultivation of a market for products from Surin. Despite all of these programs, organics only constitute .01 percent of agriculture in Thailand. The hardest part of this transition, according to one government offi cial, “ is changing the perspective of the farmers.” Notwithstanding, many farmers believe that the Governor is simply interested in creating an image for himself. P’Nok, a representative from the Surin Farmer Support, an organization of villagers and NGO’s dedicated to helping farmers make the switch from chemical to organic farming, states matter-of-factly, “The government doesn’t believe and doesn’t have faith in organic agriculture. The lack of contact between the farmers and government offi cials has exacerbated this issue. One organic farmer from Thong Lap Thai, exasperated by the amount of rhetoric, simply asked “Are you seriously going to help us, or not?”

SunsetPhoto by Corinne KisnerGeorgetown University

“Insanity Curve”- Journal EntryBeth Tellman; Santa Clara University


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Mind on the Mine Sadie Beauregard; Occidental College

For me, the tears come with fi ve villagers. I didn’t stay in their homes or share their food. I merely sit as they stand up, heads high, and listen as they state why they want a potash mine. To me, the mine seems to bring nothing but loss of their culture, families and communities; the destruction of their rice fi elds and their livelihoods. For them, the mine means a brother home from Bangkok, a son that won’t have to leave for work in Taiwan, or perhaps a job a few years down the road. With these hopes they are easily swayed by words of “employment”, “development”,

“industrialization” and “progress.” They see their future from words spoke by men in suits and diagrams of technology and dreams of mines. I think they are blinded by their love. They have been told that it will be ok, that the government will take care of them when the mine ends 22 years later. With their rice fi elds gone and all that is left is a “potential tourist attraction” what will happen? And over and over I see the smile of one man, “we heard you were coming and we wanted to come and meet you” he says to us. Please listen to us, their faces plead. We only want our children home.

And the company smiles too. “Let us know if you’d like any information about the project,” they say. “It will be ok. Our facts are good, we’ve taken the time. We need this for our fertilizer. It is for Thailand, it is for progress. No, we have

no “fi nal conclusion” for when it is over. Perhaps it can be ‘a tourist attraction with a museum.’” There you go, my beautiful host mother’s land is diminished to a spot for tourists to come and see what used to be; to comment on the history, yet never to witness the rows of chili peppers and rais of rice fi elds that were.

My Meh says to me, “Please tell the company we don’t want the mine. We want our land, we want to eat, my husband has been working in Taiwan for 2 years now but we still cannot lose our

life here.” She and others in opposition stand strong in their green T-Shirts, prepared “to die” for their homes. Yet the villagers who support the mine smile and plead to be heard as well,

“we need our children home, what else are we to do? They say we will have jobs, they say they will take care of us.”

And I want to tell the company to leave – to stop pitting Thais against Thais for this push towards industrialization. But what else can they do with this system we’re in. I want their children to come home, but I don’t want their grandchildren to lose. I also want them to see that their children home for a mine now may mean the struggles of their grandchildren in the future. I want to smile back and say I understand. I am trying, but I do not. It is not my story. It’s theirs. Yet it is my story too as I am a part of this race we call humanity. Which should remind us to be humane. And I leave feeling helpless with a sore heart and a confused mind.


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The LoraxCaroline Silver; Barnard College

I am the Lorax. I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues.

And I’m asking you sir, at the top of my lungs – that thing! That horrible thing that I see!

What’s that thing you’ve made out of my truffula tree?

In Thailand, “that thing” is rubber. Two weeks ago, branches from a giant, rotting, rubber tree knocked down power lines in a small village in Roi Et province. The crash caused a power outage for a week and almost destroyed the surrounding houses. However, when asked why the tree still stands, the villagers replied, “the government.”

The Thai government has a monopoly on all the rubber trees in Thailand. This means that a rubber tree planted and grown on private property is still owned by the government. Furthermore, the government is not required to notify or compensate the land owner when they cut down a rubber tree. The rubber industry in Thailand is considerable; rubber is the country’s second largest export.

Sumontha Laochai, a farmer who lives across from the rubber tree that caused the power outage, explained that her village asked the government if they could cut it down, as it was unsafe in its current existence. The Thai government refused to make the trip into Sumontha’s village for only one tree, yet they also denied the villagers the authorization to cut the tree down. In the end, the tree still stands, looming precariously over the village.

Sumontha cheerfully explained how the head of her village counts the rubber trees on her property frequently to ensure that she has not cut any down. She tells a story of her neighbor who went into the woods in his backyard at night and cut a rubber tree down; within two days he was arrested and sent to jail.

In a country where the King is the uniting force that binds citizens together under a pretense that there is someone at the top looking out for them – it seems ironic that the government does not follow this model and even more ironic that Thai people do not question their motives.

The rubber tree monopoly in Thailand is representative of many national development and agricultural projects, orchestrated by the government, that seem to run counter to the interest of the people. The trees cut down on Sumontha’s farm go to a municipal rubber plant and are then prepared for export. The farmer, let alone the Thai economy, never sees a baht (cent) from the industry. As Thailand slowly cuts down all their rubber trees, where is the incentive for farmers to plant more? Because the government offers no monetary compensation, who is replanting the second biggest industry in Thailand? If the government watches over the trees, who watches over the government? More importantly, where is the Lorax of Thailand?

Business is businessAnd business must grow

Regardless of crummies in tummies, you know.I meant no harm

I most truly did not

But I had to grow bigger. So bigger I got

-Dr. Seuss


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As we ride through the streets of Khon Kaen, I see a glass bottle on the side of the road and shout to my motorcycle companion to stop. I run and grab the recyclable good as my homestay dad stops the motorcycle. We begin walking around the lot, where the bottle laid, but my dad stops me and says “there is another scavenger here, let him be.” This seems puzzling because in a world where one scavenges for a living; recyclable goods are limited and you can never really make enough. “We are not in competition with each other. Everyone is struggling. Why should I take from someone else”? This explanation, provided by my scavenging partner and home-stay Paw, illuminates the mentality of a people who are forgotten and completely disregarded by Thai Society.

Scavengers are a major part of Thai culture. They interact on all levels; from the individual throwing away trash to the garbage dropped off at the landfi ll by garbage trucks. They take the recyclable goods from the trash and sell them to local recycle centers for designated amounts. The prices range from 1 baht per kilo for glass bottles to 20 baht per kilo for white opaque bottles. These prices, however, are not stable and fl uctuate with the supply and demand of these goods.

Despite the unstable working situation, the people who scavenge are warm, open, and genuinely happy. “Come sit down and eat with us,” shouts my host mother to all arriving guests. The table is already full, with her nine grandchildren surrounding the six plates of food but it does not matter who arrives or how much sticky rice they have left. It is a culture of

sharing, even though they can only share a little.

This community, however, is facing a major crisis. In Thailand’s harsh economy, there is an ever increasing number of scavengers in the cities. Those in the city are beginning to recycle more. This two front attack is devastating the income and livelihood of those scavengers who work at the landfi ll. “We use to make 800 baht a day, now it’s down to 104, if we are lucky,” explains one of the heads of the landfi ll community. Minimum wage is 152 baht a day.

The future of poverty is not inevitable for this community. There are organizations that have begun attempting to organize the communities, so that they can become more self-suffi cient. Communal savings accounts have decreased some of the incredible debt that many scavengers have accrued. Communities have been able to have a collective bargaining agreement, so they can demand higher prices per kilo of recyclable. This start has impacted the few communities that have had the luck to organize. NGOs and people must take advantage of these networks, if these scavenger communities have any chance of survival and success.

VeritasMax Holland; The George Washington University

Photo by John HouaWa ThojUniversity of Tulsa

“I would have spent the night by

myself with a beer and the weight of a busy

day still resting on my shoulders.”


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Drinking AloneDylan Cook; Southern Illinois University

Kuhn approached me before I had taken my bag off of my shoulder. ‘You come

alone?’ he asked. I had just walked over to Chung Place, across from KSS apartments,

to have a beer and relax. It had been a busy day and a cold beer was the only thing on

my mind. I had come alone, just as I would back home in the United States if I couldn’t

convince a friend to accompany me. ‘Yeah,’ I answered, “no one wanted to join me

tonight.” Kuhn smiled, “What’s your name? Do you want to come and drink with us?”

He pointed to the next table over where a group of students were sitting. “My name is

Dylan,” I replied, “and I would love to join you.”

It was a great night. I learned that Kuhn and his friends were all studying

Engineering, a subject that scares me, and I talked a little about myself. I told them that

I’m an American student from Southern Illinois University, I study political science and

philosophy, and that I’m here in Khon Kaen to study globalization and development

from Thailand’s perspective. It was a hard conversation to have. I can only speak a little

bit of Thai, and they

only spoke a little bit of

English. However, as the

number of empty bottles

increased, we started to

understand each other

better.

Kuhn and his friends asked me why I had come alone; it seemed weird to them

that I would come out for a beer by myself. I looked around the bar. At every table there

were at least three people talking, laughing, and drinking together. It made sense. I had

thought nothing of my unaccompanied night out, but I was having a much better time

at this table of fi ve guys than I would have had sitting and drinking alone.

When I thought about how I ended up at this table, I realized that it would have

never happened at a local bar in my hometown. If I was back at home, I would have

spent the night by myself with a beer and the weight of a busy day still resting on my

shoulders. No one would have asked me to join them. I was suddenly thrilled to be

sitting down with these guys, thankful for Kuhn’s invitation, and overjoyed to be in a

country where I won’t be drinking alone.

At the end of the night, we all exchanged phone numbers and made plans to

meet the next day. I walked home that night energized. I was excited at the prospect

of living in Thailand and meeting the students of Khon Kaen; excited to have the

opportunity of drinking a few beers enjoying life with my international peers. I’ll be

staying in Lang Mau for the next three months. If you are ever in the area, and happen

to see me walking around, call out my name. I would love to sit down and drink a beer,

as long as I’m not drinking alone.


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The Development of IsaanJessica Fisher; Drake University

Crowded streets lined with food vendors greet the visitor to the downtown day market; endless opportunities to buy fresh vegetables or newly bloodied meat. Sellers eye each potential customer, rearranging their product as they are passed by. Only a few miles away is Big C, a superstore sitting upon stretches of concrete parking spaces, bringing a completely new angle to food competition. With hundreds of years of community-based agriculture behind it, the northeast region of Isaan seems to be an unlikely place for large scale food distributors. Forty years ago, the visitor to Isaan saw miles of farming communities. Each village planted a different variety of rice during the wet season, with herbs growing freely in the community forest, and a pond well supplied with fi sh.

Change has occurred rapidly, much to the government’s chagrin. In only a short period of time, local villages have become nurseries for all of Thailand’s development dreams. The community forests have been plowed into fi elds for the growth of cash crops, and the fi sh have disappeared from the ponds because of chemical runoff from the rice fi elds. Today only one type of rice is grown in both the wet and dry seasons.

The result is the skeleton of a community, with villagers growing rice to pay for their next television, instead of providing the next meal for their family. Thousands of miles from the fi eld where it was grown, on a shelf in Big C, rests the farmer’s hard earned yield. Moreover, Big C bought the crop from the farmer for a fraction of the profi t the superstore will receive.

What is the purpose of Isaan’s development? Villages have lost their sense of community, fi elds and forests have lost their biodiversity and consumers are quickly loosing their culture, succumbing to the monoculture prescribed by the West.

“It seems like our oxygen is based on other countries,” observes Ubon Yoowah, a farmer from Isaan and a member of an Alternative Agriculture Network. His statement forewarns of the irreversible consequences of development and progress. What will Isaan look like in 10 years?

The group in Surin Province

Photo by Jessica FisherDrake University


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This page is dedicated to one of our groups’ greatest joys

10. “It’s going to be a bit warm. And by a bit warm, I mean hot. Boiling, boiling hot.” - Aj. Dee preparing us for our 14K walk in the scorching sun.

9. “Fair trade!...sorta!” - Aj. Dee in response to trading a single apple for a bag of salt (editor’s note: it was about 5 pounds of salt)

8. “The bathroom for boys is over there, and the bathroom for girls is over here. But in an emergency, you should use either one.”

7. “The grandma is usually angry and will be mean to you but sometimes you can catch her on a good day and she won’t be too mean… it depends on the day…and if you pay her.” – Aj Dee describing the ‘grandma store’ around the corner from the offi ce

6. “You may have noticed that your families sit far away from you. Sometimes you do not smell very nice. I think we should remember to take showers.” – Aj. Dee describing the negative effects of not showering on host families.

5. “These are two new terms I’m using now… rustic and funky” – Aj Dee describing our lodgings

4. “The place we are staying will be rather rustic. You may like to bring a pillow.”“So there will not be pillows there?” - Student“Well, I believe there will be something square and rather hard. Like a pillow… but not quite a pillow.” – Aj. Dee preparing us for a “rustic” overnighter.

3. “I hear the grandma at the landfi ll exchange had a…shameful time” – Aj Dee in response to hearing about Al’s private parts hanging out of his shorts during the exchange

2. “ I’m so attached to this happiness here on the plate” – Aj Dee talking about the food in front of him and how food makes people happy

1. “It’d better be good. Because if not, I will fi nd you. I will kill you. I will pull out your intestines and I will throw it on the fl oor…like Hannibal.” - Aj. Dee in response to hearing there will be a page just for him in the newsletter

Top Ten Ajaan Dee Quotes

“Coconut is the BEST fruit!”


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David Streckfuss • Resident Director • [email protected] Adisak Kaewrakmuk • Logistics and Field Study Coordinator • [email protected] • (66)(81)974-0290 Arunee Chupkhunthod • Acting Administrative Director • [email protected] • (66)(81)965-3400 Jintana Rattanakhemakorn • Language Coordinator • [email protected] • (66)(81)662-3324 John Mark Belardo • Offi ce Manager • [email protected]

CIEE Th ailand P.O. Box 91 Khon Kaen University Khon Kaen 40002 (043) 342913 calling from the US: (66) (43) 342913

cieeCouncil on International Educational Exchange

Photo by Leslie Garrison; University of Michigan

CIEE Khon Kaen Newsletter--2008--SP--No. 2

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