abachine, attarine for grubbin

things to checkachebine- medicine, shbe‘t ( I'm full), mrouzia

khalia?safee- enough

Deep fried Doughnouts, in Batha or just inside Bab Boujoloud.

Sandwiches from the Tala Kbira market, really tastyMsemen with honey, or cheese, or jamNougat vendor, nice to take back home as a gift to grandma, near Quaraouyine.Snail stand, being the most famous the one in Derb alHorra

bee-emm, eggs & maters tehal, (taihel?) camel spleen stuffed with camel meat, olives and preserved lemons (baked like a gigantic sausage, then sliced and fried); makkouda, spicy potato cakes mashed with cumin and other spices and then delicately fried; and cow’s tongue steamed to a brisket-like tenderness.A must-have is ghoulal, or snail soup. molokhia? greensfish tajine, 26 serrajine bou jeloud, rest. bouayaderst fassi, sammiches, 33 serrajinesnail talaa seghira derb al-horra 5-10, bahou hasnaoui3 talaa seghira, big mac sandwiches57 Sagha el Achebine (family restaurant berrada)

Restaurant Thamis

Thami is a nice old guy who has a street food restaurant at a corner of the Place Bou Jeloud just before Rue Talla Seghira begins. Food is good and cheap. Tagine kefta is a must.nightlife

Casablanca Seksu bedawi (couscous with seven vegetables) Chefchaouen Djaj bil berquq (chicken with prunes) Demnate Seksu Demnati (couscous made with corn or barley instead of semolina) Essaouira Hut Mqalli (fish tajine with saffron, ginger and preserved lemons), djej kadra toumiya (chicken with almonds, onions and chickpeas in buttery saffron sauce). Fez Kennaria (stew with wild thistle/artichoke, with or without meat), hut bu’etob (baked shad filled with almond-stuffed dates). High Atlas Mechoui (slow-roasted stuffed lamb or beef ). Marrakesh Bessara (fava beans with cumin, paprika, olive oil and salt), tangia (crockpot stew of seasoned lamb, vegetables and onions cooked eight to 12 hours in a hammam, or sauna). Meknès Kamama (lamb stewed with ginger, smen, saffron, cinnamon and sweet onions). Southern Coast Amelou (argan-nut paste with honey and argan oil). Tangier Local variations on tapas and paella (Spanish dish made from rice, shellfish, chicken and vegetables)

Agadir Oranges, lemons, argan oil Casablanca Cactus fruit Dades Edible rosebuds, rosewater Doukkala Melons Erfoud Dates

Agadir Oranges, lemons, argan oil Casablanca Cactus fruit Dades Edible rosebuds, rosewater Doukkala Melons Erfoud Dates Essaouira Fish, argan oil Fez Wild artichokes, olive oil, oranges, orange-flower water, lemons Marrakesh Pomegranates Meknès Mint, olives, olive oil Oualidia Oysters Rif Walnuts, chestnuts, citrus, goat’s cheese Safi Shellfish Sebou Shad, shad-roe caviar Sefrou Cherries Souss Almonds, lamb, dates Tagoundaft Honey

One savoury southern breakfast just right for chilly mornings is bessara (a steaming hot fava-bean puree with cumin, olive oil, and a dash of paprika) best when mopped up with khoobz still warm from the communal oven right down the street. For a twist on the usual French breakfast pastries, try rghaif (flaky, dense Moroccan pastries like flattened croissants), usually served with warm honey or apricot jam. Protein fiends will enjoy rghaif stuffed with khlii (sundried strips of spiced beef, like beef jerky). The truly adventurous can start their day with a rich stew of lamb’s head or calves’ feet, generously ladled into an enamel bowl from a huge vat precariously balanced on a makeshift Buddha gas burner.

What’s in your dish that makes it so tasty? Probably one of four main kinds of stock, which you can distinguish by colour: light yellow mqalli is a base of saffron, oil and ginger golden msharmal has saffron, ginger and a dash of pepper orange or reddish mhammar includes paprika, cumin and butter beige qadra is made of smen (aged, seasoned clarified butter) with vegetable stock, chickpeas and almonds.

Admirable Moroccan white wines include crisp Coquillages and citrusy Sémillant Blanc. Reliable reds include the mellow President Cabernet, spicier Medallion Cabernet and zesty Siroua S Syrah.

Le Palace at Hotel Jnane Palace

A club that could be anywhere in the world for its excellent design and good vibes, Le Palace makes everyone dance at the rythm of well known tubes and some good arabic music. Its open from midnight but we suggest going around one, get a table for more privacy and dance the night away, Fez is glittering.

The only thing we would change is forbidding the Dj announcing the birthdays...but a taki detail will not spoil the good memories.

La mezzanine

Although not a club for its opening hours, La Mezzanine is a favourite hung out place were the fashionable crowd of Fes shows its best shoes. Get a bottle, order some snacks and dance till they close around 2 on weekends. Safe enviroment pure fun.

Medaillon rougeProduced with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Syrah, Medaillon is well known for its full body and it ages gracefully into a velvety wine of pure elegance.

El Mogador rouge produced with Muscat Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. Its a powerful wine with plenty of spices and

El Mogador rouge produced with Muscat Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. Its a powerful wine with plenty of spices and well structured. Its one of our favourites.

Domaine de Sahari rougeA 1200-hectare estate, 600 hectares planted with vines, at the foot of the High Atlas mountains (Meknès Province) in the town of Ait Yazem, located on the fertile plains of the Saïs, in Morocco. Harvested by hand and processed in the traditional manner, this wine has a unique character.Grenache (20%) - Cinsault (20%) - Carignan (50%) Alicante (10%).Les Celliers de Meknès estate cover nearly 2000 hectares of vineyards divided among four of Morocco's most prestigious designations : AOG Guerrouane, AOG Beni M'tir, AOG Berkane and the country's only AOC, Les Coteaux de l'Atlas whose best parcels have been graded as "1st Cru".The Zniber family, vine growers for more than half a century, are pioneers of modern wines in Morocco.The climate of the Middle Atlas in the foothills on which their estates are situated, the elevation ranging from 580 to 700 meters, the moderate rainfall and generous sunshine all provide the vineyards with an exceptional site unrivaled in Morocco.

Beni M'Tir RougeThe Appellation Beni M'tir is a region of northern Morocco, located south to the imperial city of Meknes at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains in between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. This area has been known for producing fine wines for more than 2000 years at the times of the Romain Empire. The Amazi'gh vineyards are at an altitude of 700 meters and benefit from a dry-sunny climate and time-rich clay soils giving powerful, full-bodied, expressive wines.Carignan, Cinsault & Alicante create this exotically fruited wine.

Guerrouane RougeProduced from Carignan, Cinsault (Rhone varietals), Alicante (southern Italy) and Grnache.Full-bodied, yet soft, with ripe tannins and loads of fruit.Guerrouane Gris100% cinsault.Fresh, lively, pairs well with salads, roasted fish and spicy dishes.Ksar blancThis wine is characterized by a nose of ripe fruits. The complex and rich mouth is supported by an acidulous final that offers him balance and freshness.Vin de Cepage Sauvignon BlancThis “Sauvignon Blanc” is characterized by a yellow dress with green reflects. Peach and citrus fruit aromas precede a fresh palate supported by a well balanced acidity.

Swimming Pool in Riad AlkantaraSpend a few hours in the gorgeous swimming pool surrounded by beautiful gardens. Drink sangria, talk about life and play cheeky underwater games like the ones you played when you were 14.www.riadalkantara.com

The White Souk / Marché Centrale, (on Blvd Mohammed V). A good place to find alcohol if you prefer to drink at home. There are two brick-and-mortar liquor stores on either side of the Souk, and many of the vendors inside keep discreet

stashes for thirsty foreigners

Bar of the Hotel BathaIn this old fashioned retreat you will hardly find anyone known -or anyone at all-, but the place makes a good setting for long beer chats and love declarations. Most of the time not even a waiter is there.

mount zalagh?

tala'a kebira, derb margana- maimonides' house

EAT YOUR WORDS Begin your taste adventure by picking up some Moroccan food lingo – for a pronunciation guide, see the Language chapter (p504). Useful Phrases Table for..., please. tabla dyal... ‘afak Can I pay by credit card? wash nkder nkhelles bel kaart kredee? Can I see a menu please? nazar na’raf lmaakla lli ‘andkum? I’m a vegetarian. makanakoolsh llehem What do you recommend? shnoo tansaani nakul? I’ll try what she/ gha nzharrab shnoo kaatakul hiyya/ he is having. huwwa Without..., please. bla..., ‘afak I’d like something to drink. bgheet shi haazha nashrubha I didn’t order this. tlabtsh had shshi Please bring me... llaa ykhalleek zheeb li... some water shwiyya dyaal lmaa some salt shwiyya dyaal lmelha some pepper shwiyya dyaal lebzaar some bread shwiyya dyaal lkhoobz a napkin mandeel a beer birra a glass/bottle of red/ kaas/qar’a dyal hmar/ white/rose wine byad/roozi shshrab This is... Had shshi... brilliant! ldeed bezzef! burnt mahruqa cold barda undercooked ma taybash mazyan Cheers! (To your health!) Bsaha! The bill, please. Lahsaab, ‘afak. Thank you. Shukran. Food glossary MEAT baqree beef farooj/dujaj chicken lehem meat kebda liver kelawwi kidneys lehem ghenmee lamb lehem jemil camel SEAFOOD hut fish laangos lobster lamoori cod merla whiting qaimroon shrimp serdeen sardines shton anchovies 88 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Wordslonelyplanet.com sol sole ton tuna VEGETABLES & PULSES ‘aads lentils batatas potatoes besla onion fasooliya white beans fegg’a mushroom khess lettuce khiyaar cucumber lbdanzhaal aubergine loobeeya green beans mataisha tamatim tomato qooq artichoke tooma garlic khoodar vegetables zeetoun olives zelbana bisila peas FRUIT ‘eineb grapes banan/moz banana dellah watermelon fakiya fruit kermoos figs limoon orange meshmash apricot reman pomegranate teffah apple tmer dates OTHER FOODS bayd eggs shorba soup filfil/lebzaar pepper fromaj/jiben cheese khoobz bread melha salt ships chips sukur sugar zabadee/laban/danoon yoghurt zebda butter zit oil

What is the address? Please write downthe address. Is there a room available?I’d like a room ... for one person for two people with a bathroomCan I see the room? Where is the toilet? How much is a roomfor one day? This room is tooexpensive.This room is good. We’d like to checkout now.air-conditioning bedblanketfull

hot water key

hot water keyroom sheet shower toiletashnoo hoowa l’unwan? kteb l’unwan ‘afekwash kayn shee beet khaweeya?bgheet shee beet ... dyal waheddyal jooj belhammamwash yemkenlee nshoof lbeet? fin kayn lbeet lma?bash hal kayn gbayt l wahednhar?had lbeet bezzaf ghaleehad lbeet mezyana bgheena nemshee dabakleemateezaseeyun namooseeya bttaaneeya’amerlma skhoon sarootbeeteezar dooshbeet lma

A. Bab Boujloud - Bab Guissa

Porte de Boujloud

Medersa Bou Inania

Axe Tala Kbira

Chrablyene

Place Nejjarine (Fondouk and Fontaine)

Mausolee Moulay Idriss

Seffarine

Tanneurs

Medersa Attarine

Quaraouyine Mosque

Quaraouyine Mosque

Souk Attarine

Achabine (Palais Jamai)

Bab Guissa

B. Palais Jamai - Bab Guissa

Tanneurs de Chouaras

Medersa Attarine

Quaraouyine

Seffarine Dinandiers

Teinturiers

Medersa Ras-Cherratine

Mausolee Moulay Idriss

Place Nejjarine

Attarine, Souk des Epices, Henna Souk

Sidi Ahmed Tijani

Bab Guissa

C. Bab Ftouh - R'Cif

Quartier des Potiers

Cooperative Zelligeurs

Medersa Sahrij

Medersa Sahrij

Mosquee nes Andalous

Quaraouyine

Place Nejjarine

Tanneus de Guerniz

Mausolee Moulay Idriss

Medersa Cherratine

R'Cif

Place des Alaouites (Porte Palais Jamai)

Bab Semmarine (Fes Jdid)

Bab Ftouh

Bab Guissa

Tombeaux des Merinides

Musee d'Armes Anciennes

Bab Makina (musiques sacrees)

Jardin Andalou Jnan Sbil

Batha museum

tangiers- Saveurs de poissons - Chez Poppeye, Escalier Waller, 2 (Close to rue de la Liberté and hôtel El-MinzahThere is also some fresh off-the-boat seafood restaurants for locals in the port behind the warehouses. At the port entrance, walk towards the water and keep to the right. It's on the docks towards the farthest point out behind some buildings...all outdoor seating for the most part. Order a tray of shrimp, a (big) salad and the calamari and fish tray. No menus or prices but it's quite inexpensive and authentic.

buying spices- elbezar

buying spices- elbezar