Chronicle Oct09

24
Colour Chronicle A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication for the Textile, Leather, Paper and allied processing industries 30 th year of publication Number 2 | 2009 TLP Division

Transcript of Chronicle Oct09

Page 1: Chronicle Oct09

Colour ChronicleA Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publicationfor the Textile, Leather, Paper and allied processing industries

30th year of publication

Number 2 | 2009TLP Division

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2 colour chronicle 2 | 2009colour chronicle 2 | 2009

colour chronicle 2 | 2009

Contentstextile 3

Resin finish Garment finish

q&a 10 Textile – an essential, rich heritage

paper 13 Surface sizing additives

new arrivals 17

inside views 20 Clariant’s Global Shoe Concept: Society of Dyes and Colourists

gleanings from press 22

e 2 | 2009

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textile

Resin finishHigh-end Resin finishPurpose: Excellent wash and wear properties No ironing or easy to iron Shape memory Washfast softness Washfast smoothness Wearing comfort

For successful crosslinkingArkofix NDL liquid cLow HCHO cross-linking agent for resin fi nishing of cellulosic fi bres

Arkofix NDF liquid cCross-linking agent with very low HCHO values (Law 112) for resin fi nishing of cotton and viscose (CV=stronger catalysis required)

Arkofix NEC / NES liquid cChlorine retention resistant cross-linking agent with very low HCHO values (Law 112) for resin fi nishing of viscose and selected Co qualities

New Arkofix NZF liquidHCHO-free cross-linking agent for resin fi nishing of cellulosic fi bres

Important points for Easy - Care, Crease Resist, No Iron Fabric and process have to be studied for this purpose and

very well controlled especially for pure cotton fabrics. More resin, more performance! But the restricting factor

is the loss in strength. 30 to 45 % loss of tensile strength have to be taken into

account. Fabric: good cotton fi bers quality

extra long staples yarn construction (no open end for shirts) weaving and design

Pre-treatment: Very well controlled to ensure minimal damage; liquid ammonia is a must for

non-iron shirts Dyeing: All dyes can be used for dry process

(Pad Dry Cure). Pigments, vat and sulfur dyes are suitable for moist cure. For wet cure only pigment printed, white fabrics and some vat dyes are possible. Before resin fi nishing the pH of the fabric must be slightly acidic

and no alkalinity Alkalinity < 0.04 g NaOH/100 g of fabric

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textile

Physical performance of resin treated goodsAdvantages and drawbacks of resin finish+ Durable press rating+ Low creasing+ High CRA+ Easy to iron / non iron+ Dimension stability

- Loss in tensile strength- Loss in tear strength- Abrasion resistance- Formaldehyde content

Selection of softeners and additives:Effects influenced by the right selection soft handle effect improvement of tear strength (Elmendorf) improvement of crease recovery angle improvement of wash and wear appearance (DP rate) facilitated ironing wearing properties wash permanence seam slippage take into account: compatibility with each other, HLV

Influence of additives on tear resistanceTearing behaviour according to Elmendorf

Number of Rotations (thousand)

Permanent Press Influence of additivesSmoothness aspect (Durable Press)

Resistance of pressed creases folds (Durable Press)

0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500

NDF + P40/MW/UP

NDF + Fatty acid softener

NDF + Velustrol P40

NDF + Solusoft UP

NDF + Ceraperm SAP

NDF + Solusoft MW

Arkofix NDF Liq

Raw material

cN

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14

NDF + P40/MW/UP

NDF + Fatty acid softener

NDF + Velustrol P40

NDF + Solusoft UP

NDF + Ceraperm SAP

NDF + Solusoft MW

Arkofix NDF Liq

0 2 4 6

NDF + P40/MW/UP

NDF + Fatty acid softener

NDF + Velustrol P40

NDF + Solusoft UP

NDF + Ceraperm SAP

NDF + Solusoft MW

Arkofix NDF Liq

Raw material

0 2 4 6 8

NDF + P40/MW/UP

NDF + Fatty acid softener

NDF + Velustrol P40

NDF + Solusoft UP

NDF + Ceraperm SAP

NDF + Solusoft MW

Arkofix NDF Liq

Raw material

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textile

Formaldehyde-free resin finish on cotton Knit WovenArkofix NZF New liq 40 - 90 60-180 g/lCeralube SVN liq 25 - 35 – g/lSolusoft MW liq or – 25 g/lSolusoft WA liq 15 – g/lSolusoft ACN liq – 15 g/lVelustrol P40 liq – 20 g/lHostapal MRN liq hc 0.5 0.5 g/lCatalyst NKD liq 4 - 9 6 - 15 g/l pad at room temperature Dry: 110 - 130°C Cure: 20 - 30 s at 160°C

Eco Easy FinishThe simple All in One easy care finish with compound products Specially for knit goods of cellulosic fi bres and their

blends with synthetics One stage process Guide recipe for outerwear and T-Shirts (white and

coloured)Stage 1 30-40 g/l Arkofix NDK liq 30-50 g/l Ceraperm SAP liq 0.1-0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad cold pickup 70-80 % shock cure for 20-15 s at 170-180°C

(temperature of the goods) Top-Tex

The uncomplicated Easy Care finish with variable building block system For woven and knit goods of cotton and its blends with

synthetic fi bres One stage process Guide recipe 100 % Co fabric (lightweight fabric; white

or coloured goods)Stage 1 30-70 g/l Arkofix NDF liq c 8-17 g/l Catalyst NKS liq 15 g/l Solusoft UP liq 35-40 g/l Ceraperm SAP liq 20 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq 0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature pickup 70-80% shock cure for 20-15 seconds at 170-180°C

(temperature of the goods) or dry at 130°C and cure 150°C 3 minutes

calendar, sanforize if necessary.

Different methods to determine the smoothness appearanceCommon evaluation methods for smoothness appearance are:“Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings” AATCC 124

ISO 7768 - M&S P134 – DIN EN ISO 15487 - AFNOR G 07 137-2

Monsanto 1 2 3 3.5 4 5Smoothness AppearanceAATCC 124 (Idem für M&S P134) 1 2 3 3.5 4 5DIN 53895 1 2 4 6 8 10

100% CottonArkofix NDF liq c 40 - 60 g/lCatalyst NKS liq 10 - 15 g/lCeraperm SAP liq 20 g/lSolusoft UP liq 30 g/lHydroperm RPU liq 20 g/l pad at room temperature pickup 70-80% dry at 130°C cure for 3 minutes at 150°C

Knitwear recipes Standard Öko-Easy-Finish recommendationArkofix NDF liq c g/l 20-45 – Catalyst NKS liq g/l 8-12 –Arkofix NDK liq g/l – 25-50Ceralube SVN liq g/l 30-45 – Solusoft MW liq or Solusoft UP liq g/l 15 – Ceraperm SAP liq g/l – 30-40Hostapal MRN liq c g/l 0.5 0.5 pad at room temperature pickup 70-80% dry at cure 170°C; curing time 15 sec.

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textile

LT-Cure FinishThe comprehensive low risk finish for highest demands as an alternative to moist crosslinking with almost the same effects (no change of shade) For woven goods of 100 % Cotton. Three stage process Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)

Stage 1 Resin finish 150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF/NEC Plus liq c* 28-34 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq 10-30 g/l Solusoft MW liq c 30-40 g/l Velustrol P40 liq 0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature pickup 60-70 % dry at 80°C to residual humidity of 5-8%, then cure 3

min at 130°C

Stage 2 Open width washing : 0.5 g/l Imerol PC liq open width wash at 40°C rinse dry

Stage 3 Top finish 0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 % 30-40 g/l Solusoft MW liq c 30 g/l Ceralube PHD liq c 0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra 0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature, pickup 60-80 % dry at 130°C sanforize if necessary

Moisture - curingComplex State of the Art finish with a technically demanding background For woven goods of 100% cotton Three stage process Guide recipe for 100% Co woven fabric

Stage 1 Resin finish 150-200 g/l Arkofix NDL liq c 20-30 g/l Velustrol ASP liq 5 g/l Hydroperm HV liq 110 g/l Catalyst MC1 liq pad at room temperature pickup 70-80 % dry at 90-100°C to 7-9 % residual humidity roll and batch at room temperature for 20-22 h

Stage 2 Open width washing, drying 2 g/l soda ash neutralize at 60°C rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid rinse, dry

Stage 3 Top finish 10-25 g/l Solusoft MW liq 15-20 g/l Solusoft UP liq 20 g/l Velustrol ASP liq 10-20 g/l Dicofix SW liq c (if necessary) 0.5 ml/l acetic acid 60 % 0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature, pickup 70-80 % dry at 120-140°C sanforize, calander if necessary

Clariant priority productsSolusoft SE1 liq NANO - emulsion

special modified siloxaneweakly cationic, no yellowing

Solusoft MW liq + liq c Micro – emulsionAminomodified silicone elastomer nonionic

Solusoft UP liq + liq h.c Macro – emulsion modified silicone elastomer nonionic

Hydroperm RPU liq Hydrophilic multipurpose polyurethane, ideal for moisture management finish, additive for resin finish, nonionic

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textile

Garment FinishEnzymatic and Softening TreatmentEnzymatic treatment :Bactosol CA liq c 1 %Sirrix 2 UD pH 4.5Liquor ratio 10 : 150 - 70 min. at 60°Crinse warm and cold

Super-Soft FinishProcess : Garment - DipRecipe : Solusoft UP liq 70 g/l 4.2 % owfSolusoft MW liq c 30 g/l 1.8 % owfHydroperm RPU liq 30 g/l 1.8 % owf Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30°C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90-100°C to a residual moisture of 8-9% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150°C

Hydrophilic Finish/Moisture ManagementProcess : Garment - Dip for PA and cotton

Recipe : Solusoft TOW liq c 30 g/l 1.2 % owf Hydroperm RPU liq 30 g/l 1.8 % owf Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30°C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90-100°C to a residual moisture of 8-9% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150°C

Softening by Exhaust :Ceranine HCS liq 2 - 5% orLeomin AFK liq 2 - 5%Solusoft MSJ liq 2.5 %Ceralube OEW liq 2.5 % orCeraperm JET liq 1 - 4 % or Solusoft HIS liq 1- 4%Liquor ratio 10 : 120 min at 30 - 40 °C, pH 5Hydroextract, Tumble dry

Economical Garment softeningCeranine HCS liqCationic softener for a smooth, soft handle for all types of washed apparel.

Leomin AFK liq Cationic softener and ozone protector for washed denim jeans

Ceralube OEW liqWeakly cationic silicone compound containing a special fatty acid softener and a lubricant with a very soft, fl owing handle.

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textile

Physical Performance of Resin treated Goods:Advantages and drawbacks of resin finish+ Durable press rating/Smoothness appearance+ Low creasing+ High CRA+ Easy to iron / non iron+ Dimension stability

– Loss in tensile strength– Loss in tear strength– Abrasion resistance– Formaldehyde content

Garment High-end Resin finishSequence for Garment Resin finish

made into garments

iron and press

dye dip finish with resin + softner followed by hydroextraction and tumble drying

cure

1

4

2

5

3

1. Impregnating the made up garments with a resin fi nishing formulation by dipping or by spray application

2. Hydroextraction (usually not necessary in case of spray application)

3. Tumble drying4. Ironing5. Pressing6. Curing in a special curing oven

1. Rotary washing machine or garment dyeing machine* (eventually equipped with spray system)

2. Centrifuge

3. Tumble drying

4. Garment pressing equipment

5. Special curing oven (min temp. 150°C)

?? ???

?? ?

*= Ideally fi tted with a pumping device to pump back spent fi nishing liquor into the stock chemical holding tank

Required Machinery Park for Garment dip

Prefinish for easy making up GarmentsCeralube SVN liq 10 - 40 g/lSolusoft MW liq c 5 - 25 g/lHostapal MRN liq c 0.3 - 0.6 g/lpad, dry 120 -140°C

followed by sanforising or compacting treatment (important to avoid shrinkage or puckering during further processes of the textile)

Notice: If a fluorocarbon finish (Water-/Oil repellent, Soil Release) is applied after the garment making we recommend the following recipe for the prefinish:

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textile

Basic Formulation for Resin finish + Soil Release finishArkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 %Catalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 %Ceraperm SFC liq 2 %or Ceralube JW liq 2 %Nuva SRCN liq 6 - 8 %pH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid

Dip for about 20 minutes at 30°C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90 - 100°C to a residual moisture of

10-12% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Curing in a curing-oven, 6-8 minutes at 150°C

Calculation in g/lExample : Arkofix NDF liq c = 5 % owfPA = chemical amount which should be onto the fabricLA = liquor pick up after fi nishing and centrifuging

Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60 %

g/l = 1000 x PA = 1000 x 5 = 83 LA 60%

g/l = 83

Clariant Silicone ProductsSolusoft SE1 liq NANO - emulsion

special modified siloxane weakly cationic, no yellowing

Solusoft MW liq + liq c Micro – emulsion Amino modified silicone elastomer nonionic

Solusoft UP liq + liq h.c Macro – emulsionmodified silicone elastomer nonionic

Solusoft WA liq Semi-macro – emulsion Aminomodified elastomer cationic

l h i l

Basic Formulation for “Wrinkle-Free” finishArkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 % owfCatalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 % owfCeralube SVN liq 4 % owfSolusoft MW liq c 2 % owfSolusoft UP liq hc 1.5 % owfHydroperm RPU liq 2 % owfpH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid

Basic formulation for Resin finish + Water and Oil - RepellencyArkofix NDF liq c 3 - 8 %Catalyst NKC liq 1.5 - 4 %Ceraperm SFC liq 2 %or Ceralube PHD liq c 1-2 %Nuva TTC liq 4 - 6 %pH adjustment to 5 with acetic acid

Dip for about 20 minutes at 30°C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90 - 100°C to a residual moisture of

10-12% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Curing in a curing oven, 6-8 minutes at 150°C

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q&a

1. Do you think the Textile industry today is facing a Global Recession?Yes, Textile Industry is facing today a Global Recession due to the economic conditions ofAmerica and Europe.

2. How do you assess the threat from China?I don’t consider China as a threat any more due to lack of quality in their product and changed government policies.

3. What innovations do you plan with reference to branding, retailing new products and new fi nishes?Regarding Branding we are already having our established brands viz. Monte Carlo, Cotton County, French Republic and Tazo and our Retail Business is already in place. We are trying to strenghten our Brands and Retails Business by creating Brand Loyalty through quality at reasonable price.Regarding new products we are focusing more on Elasten Fibre and increasing our capacity of Elasten Fibre yarn as use of Elasten Fibre is increasing. We are trying to increase our presence in workwear segment. Dobby Design is the strength of Nahar Group. We are trying to exploit our strength. Regarding new fi nishes we are doing different type of performance fi nishes too for brands.

4. How do you envisage the growth of brands and its impact on textile business?It will improve the quality standard.

5. What are your plans to expand your International Textiles and Retail business?In Nahar we are doing lot of work for Direct Export and Export through RMG sector. Keeping this segment in view we expanded in 2006. Now we are waiting for International Textile Market to Improve. At right time we will think about expansion.

6. How do you see the role of dyes and chemical manufacturing companies (Clariant) in future to help the textile industry?In the present scenario of Textile Market the role of Dyes Chemical Manufacturing Companies like Clariant has become very crucial and cirtical. On the one hand the performance requirement is being more stringent and on the other hand price of the fi nished fabric is not increasing. In manufacturing cost dyes and chemicals is the second largest constituent i.e. 13-15% of the total manufacturing cost. So in this context all the dyes and chemicals manufacturers will have to be very innovative, quality conscious, cost competitive and service oriented to help the Textile Industry as well as for themselves.

7. Your message to textile industryTextile is one of the basic needs of human being and India is having a rich heritage in Textile. Sooner or later we would come out of the present recession. We would have to punch in a little creativity along with cost effectiveness to be the world leader.

Textile – an essential, rich heritage

Mr. Basu President M/s Nahar Industrial Enterprises

– March 9, 1957– Schooling:

Bankura Zilla School, West Bengal.

– Professional course: B. Text Colcutta University, 1978.

– Total career: 31 years

– Worked with: Banwar Mills, Kohinoor Bombay, Indian Rayon, Pasupati, Modern Terry Towel, Arvind Mills, Opex Group-Bangladesh, Auro Textile and currently Nahar Fabric.

– Current designation: President.

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paper

Surface sizing additivesCartacol® 6411 liquid and Cartacol® SA liquid

The Cartacol range Surface sizing additives Benefi ts:

– Reduce water, moisture and water-based ink penetration

– Improve inkjet printability – Better cost/effi ciency ratio

Applications:– Multipurpose– Packaging: boxboard, containerboard, corrugated

board, kraftliner, testliner, coated board

Cartacol SA liquid Surface sizing emulsion polymer - mainly Styrene/

Acrylate type, 25 % AC Nano-polymer particles Excellent electrolyte, shear and thermal stability Used on uncoated paper, in size-press colors together with

starch and OBA Designed for optimizing the inkjet printability of

multipurpose printing paper (offi ce paper), with positive effects on the toner adhesion

Cartacol 6411 liquid Surface sizing emulsion polymer - mainly Styrene/

Acrylate type, High solid content, 35 % AC Excellent electrolyte, shear and thermal stability Used on uncoated board to enhance the water hold out

(low penetration in the base paper) Good printability of multipurpose printing paper

Difference between coated and uncoated paper

Uncoated office paper

Matt coated paper

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Office paper performance criteriaSpecial emulsion polymers to improve the print performance by inkjet and digital printingSizing: Cobb, HST, contact angleInkjet print: Black/color density Image/text defi nition Wicking, feathering, 2 color bleeding Dot size/sharpnessDigital: Photocopy/laserToner adhesionRunnability (friction coeffi cient )Offset printability:Wet surface strength (SWAT, wet IGT ...)

Clariant inkjet printing testBlack text definition Colour definitionSharpness HP895Cxi Rapport Inkjet printing test

Black density Colour density, mottlingMottling Colour feathering

Bleeding (2 colour mixing)

Inkjet printing test

paper

Surface sizing mechanism Uncoated paperSurface treatment with a surface sizing agent

Uncoated paper

NETTETE

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paper

Surface sizing - Case historyOffice paper - Cartacol SA Paper Grade : 80g/m² P = 5T/h, v = 460m/min Size press : 6.5% starch

Leucophor® UKO; Cartacol SA = 2kg/T of final paper Dosing point of SSA : in working reservoir of 6.5%

starch/ Leucophor UKO solution, Temperature = 42-44°C, pH = 7.2

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8Cartacol SAB.

Digital printingToner adhesion and friction coefficient

Results : Cobb (gH2O/m² ):

– Uncured (AKD sizing) = 24 – 25g/m²;– Cured (5 minutes at 130°C) = 21 ±1g/m² -same

results with both SSA Ink-jet printability (HP printer, standard ink-jet printing

form): excellent Good toner adhesion Paper Grade : Offset paper 70 – 80g/m², 150m/min Pulp: Straw 30 – 50 / bleached fi ber 50 – 70% Wet end conditions : AKD internal sizing 15kg/T Surface treatment

– Tapioca or corn oxidized starch 6 – 10%, pH 7.5 – CARTACOL SA 3-6kg/T – Temperature 35°C – Coat weight 2.5g/m², Pond size press Advantages

– Same Dry surface strength (using IGT) than competitor speed = 2,50 / 2,95m/s Top/ Bottom side

– Same Cobb 60s = 32/33g/m²

Cartacol 6411Office paper Started with the same dosage as competition but later on

decreased to 20% less Paper – 80g/m² AKD in wet-end Size press formulation : 7% conc starch + SSA Competitor added constantly per dosing pump 2.5 kg as is/

T final Cobb values of 22gH2O/m² Cartacol 6411 addition was reduced to 2.0 ks as is/

T final paper No changes regarding Cobb and inkjet printability was

detectedwww.paper.clariant.com

This information is based on our present state of knowledge and is intended to provide general notes on our products and their uses. It should not therefore be construed as guaranteeing specific properties of the products described or their suitability for a particular application. Any existing industrial property rights must be observed. The quality of our products is guaranteed under our General Conditions of Sale.® Trademark of Clariant registered in numerous countries.© 2008 Clariant International Ltd.

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title

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new arrivals

Bactosol BP liq. c A specific cellulase enzyme for Biowash treatments. Improves signifi cantly soft feel of the garment. Removes fuzziness on surface of the fabric during

production Less colour fading after multiple laundering Rapid Kinetic behavior reduces the treatment time of the

biowash. Therefore energy cosumption cost are saved and productivity increases.

Specifi c action on surface of the fi ber, low impact on fi ber strength compared to traditional cellulases.

Afilan GD liq. Lubricant with antistatic properties for fiber manufacturing and fiber processing. Afi lan GD Liq. has got excellent lubricating and wetting

properties ,improves fi bre/fi bre cohesion and reduces fi bre /metal friction.

Owing to the high degree of dynamic smoothness and good fi bre- to- fi bre cohesion Afi lan GD liq. is suitable as lubricant for fi bre manufacture and fi bre processing in the fi eld of PAN as well as PET and all other fi bre catagories.

Can be applied from aqueous solutions either alone or in combination with other nonionic or anionic fi bre fi nishes in the fi bre manufacturing and textile mills,mainly as spinning lubricant.

Drimaren Red HF-B New High Concentrated Bright Red for Exhaust and Continuous application for Medium to dark shades. Concentrated dye with attractive Bright Red shade.

Possible to match Bright Red,

scarlet and Blood Red shades. Suitable for exhaust and continuous application process. Good compatibility within Drimaren HF/CL range. Has Good Light fastness in Medium and Dark shades. Good Wet Light and Wet alkali light (M&S C9A)

fastness. High fi xation and Good washing-off properties. Good Acid and Alkaline perspiration fastness.

Indosol Black NF p 1200 Metal free direct dye for dyeing cellulosic fibers. Product Performance Direct black with good build up. One bath dyeing of PES/

CEL under HT conditions must be dyed at pH 9 -10 Good coverage of dead cotton HT Suitability 130°C at pH 5 : Not suitable No infl uence of iron contamination in dyebath on the

shade Shade in artifi cial Light : Yellower Leveling power for Co/CV : CV dyed much deeper Stability to hard water (17°d) : Stable

Drimaren PSAfter several years of having either locally sourced for non competitive products we are happy to offer you now a new global range of own products for reactive printing. To clearly separate them from former products we call

them DRIMAREN PS dyes. These are 12 monochloro triazine dyes. The main targets behind those developments have been:

– granulated form to be superior to most of competitors’ dusting powders

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new arrivals

– economical products– high solubility to enable working even without pre-

dissolving– low salt content for less negative infl uence on

synthetic thickener and better washing- off properties (less staining).

Printofix Orange R-R Eco Orange with Banned Amine Free. Suitable for DCB-free : Black/Orange Combination Print Can be promoted as unique product in Corporate and EOU. Suitable for Babywear. Very High Light Fastness. Good Perspiration and Chlorine fast.

Printofix Red R-G EcoEco-friendly Red Pigment DispersionProduct Performance “Banned amine free”, red dispersion for pigment

printing. Good light, dry clean and wash fastness. Very little infl uence on viscosity of synthetic thickener. Suitable for all types of printing applications i.e., aqueous,

semi-aqueous and solvent based. Does not contribute in gelling of printing paste.

Printofix Binder ITL GOTS Approved, Formaldehyde Free Binder for Aqueous Printing Printofi x Binder ITL has been specially developed for

Pigment Printing by the aqueous system, in combination with Printofi x Thickener CA / CSN / ECS

Printofi x Binder ITL gives prints with good colour value, sharpness, brightness and softness.

It is suitable for printing on cotton (both woven and knit fabrics), viscose, polyester and their blends. Printed goods have high all round fastness properties.

Printofix® Binder 83.IN liq. Binder for pigment printing on cellulosic and synthetic fabrics and blends, e.g. on polyester/cellulosic fabrics. high all-round fastness properties provides pleasant soft handle good resistance to mechanical strain excellent running properties on printing machines good stability to light ageing Excellent Washing Fastness

Printofix® Binder T20-20 liq. Very Soft Binder for pigment printing on cellulosic and synthetic fabrics and blends. provides very good soft handle good all-round fastness properties good resistance to mechanical strain excellent running properties on printing machines Esp. recommended for printing of knits

Printofix Softener SFT liq. A special silicone macro emulsion for Pigment Printing Very good softness along with best rubbing fastness level

on pigment printed textiles. Elegant surface smoothness Especially recommended for pigment printing on knit-

wear Provides better elasticity to the prints Improves fastness to dry rubbing of pigment prints Shows no negative infl uence on wet rubbing fastness Compatible to all products of the Printofi x range No negative infl uence on viscosity of the print paste Shows very good permanency

Drimagen AB liq.A liquid alkali system for Reactive dyeing Controls the fi xation of reactive dyes in an uniform way. Permits improvement of dyeing reproducibility.

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new arrivals

colour chronicle 2 | 2009 19

Compared to conventional alkalies like soda-ash,Drimagen AB has the following advantages - 1. Easy handling and dissolution. 2. Better security and reproducibility of dyeings.

Exceptional pH stability in use.

Leonil EHC liq. Anionic, non-foaming wetting agent for continuous dyeing of cellulosic fibres and their blends with synthetic fibres has excellent wetting properties and facilitates penetration

of diffi cult to penetrate cellulosic grey goods can be applied in all neutral, acid and alkaline dyeliquors

in exhaust and continuous processes has no retarding effect on reactive, vat, sulphur or direct

dyes and does not impair their solubility prevents vat skinning and smears when dyeing with vat

and sulphur dyes is low-foaming under all pH conditions is silicone-free

Opticid HAI liq. Acid buffer and dispersant for dyeing of polyester and polyester/cellulosic blends. Maintains a constant pH during the dyeing process. Often replaces the dispersant. Does not foam. Is easy to handle in the liquid commercial form. Is phosphate-free.

Lyogen DP c Excellent leveling agent for Polyester Dyeing due to its inbuilt properties of Leveling, Migration and Dispersion with ability to cover barriness in uneven texturised PES.Product Performance Leveling properties based on dual action, migration and

retardation. Good dispersion properties. Non – foaming.

Highly concentrated. Dosage required is 25% lower than most of the available leveling agents.

No effect on sensitive dyes and shades especially green, turquoise.

Product can also be used effectively for Stripping and Shade Correction.

Also effective for dyeing of PES in blends. APEO / NPEO free. OkeoTex compliance. Minimal wool fi ber damage dyeing in the iso-electric

region – pH 4.5. Very high fastness on wool to ‘in house’ processing. Metal Free.

Ceralube ET.IN liq.Cost Effective Yarn Lubricant Ceralube ET.IN liq is the blend of micro fi ne waxes to achieve minimal yarn to metal and yarn to yarn coeffi cient of friction. It enhances runability of yarn and minimizes breakages in post winding. It is a cost effective product in its category to be used for reducing coeffi cient of friction. It is suitable for all fi bres.Product Performance Excellent lubricity for post winding operations. Minimizes Coeffi cient of Friction in yarn to yarn and yarn

to metal. Glossy and waxy fi nishes can be achieved by padding

application on cotton fabrics, with improvement in sewability properties.

Trefix SW pa The new sizing softener for Cotton, P/C, P/V and 100% Polyester and viscose spun yarn. Product Performance Easy splitting of yarn in split zone and imparts pliability

to yarn to overcome abrasion in weaving. Good lubrication property lowers yarn friction on loom. Reduces shedding during weaving by reducing Fibre to

Fibre and Fibre to Metal friction. Compatible with all sizing ingredients. Can be added in cooker.

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colour chronicle 2 | 200920

inside views

Under the motto “Always one shoe step ahead” - Clariant’s Leather Business has successfully

continued to advance its international shoe approach by holding three global development workshops in the main shoe centres of Asia and Americas. In line with the launch of its Global Shoe Concept, the company continues to address the shoe upper market with a strong focus on trend, innovation, performance and ecology. The objective of these local workshops was to generate innovative and fashionable ideas to cater for customers’ needs in the respective regions and countries.

Workshop in Asia and Americas:The workshops took place in Chennai/India, Guangzhou/China and Novo Hamburgo/Brazil.

Local teams with the support by the project leader Ralph Schneider from Germany as well as international technicians responsible for the respective countries spent one week together recently to exchange experiences, strengthen teambuilding and establish the strategy to offer our customers the most updated and complete solution and application.

The leathers made show a wide variety of shoe uppers from burnishable goat to high performance bovine box and oily types.

‘Specifi cally, the shoe segment will be the focus for our future growth. The results of our workshops clearly demonstrate our leading position in this area of innovative leather chemicals, based on our commitment to provide real solutions for our special customer requirements. Clariant provides application know-how, based on an updated product portfolio for all segments of our industry’, states Hubert Kollmar, Head of Leather Business for Latin America.

All workshops clearly show that the possibilities are unlimited and can be exchanged between the countries and regions when taking local requirements like raw material into account. In the current economic climate, it’s absolutely necessary that tanners can easily generate new ideas and discover new areas of business with new stylish effects and safe and environmentally-friendly processing.

Key elements of Clariant’s global shoe concept: International cross-functional teams Considering local and global requirements (e.g.

use of local raw material) Using a core range of products/systems for shoe

(globally and locally manufactured) Use of environmentally-friendly technologies Seasonal fashion approach around 18 to 24

months before the fashion seasons Continuous approach with the latest trends from

the main fashion areas in EuropeClariant has resources, products and systems,

covering the full range of shoe technologies, and dedicated techno-commercial expertise and market intelligence.

Sense the difference and feel the fashion - for more information please consult your local Clariant representative and make use of Clariant’s support.

Clariant’s Global Shoe Concept:Global information – local interpretation

Impressions from Brazil

Impressions from China

Impressions from India

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Society of Dyers and Colourists, India organized the fi rst ever Global

Conference in Goa on June 25–26, 2009. The Theme for the workshop was Sustainability

in Colouration: Vision 2020.Sustainabiltiy as a part of the theme suggested

that we have to look at sustaining the universe and most importantly ourselves and our Businesses.

Vision 2020 implies that colouration industry would go ahead with a view which would be smart and sharp.

Mr. A.K. Prasad received Fellowship of The Society of Dyers and Colorists [C Col, FSDC] which was handed over to him by Dr. Mike Bartle, Chairman of SDC, UK.

Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd. also had put up a promotional counter where we interacted with many of customers and designers from India and elsewhere. It was pleasure to know that many customers showed keen interest in colour chronicle.

Clariant was also represented by Ms. Beate and Mr. Kieth and Mr. Sebastian from Santitized AG. Ms. Beate gave a brief profi le and contribution made by Clariant globally on colouration, fashion trends and novelty effects by speciality fi nishes.

This forum was also successfully utilized for informal discussions with different customers and we enlightened them on the latest from Clariant for value addition.

Grand fi nal of SDC’s Global Design Competition was also hosted by SDCEC during the course of these two days where fashion designing students from various countries participated. We were the sponsors of the Awards function dinner of this Global design competition.

More than 200 delegates participated in this event. This was well represented by suppliers, manufactures, brand representatives, professors, and students. Presentations were also made by other allied service providers in the fi eld of textiles.

At the end SDC thanked all the lead sponsors of the conference, speakers and students who had come from all the parts of the world.

Society of Dyes and Colourists

inside views

colour chronicle 2 | 2009 21

Dr. Mike Bartle presenting fellowship certificate to Mr. A. K. Prasad.

Clariant Team with the winners of Global Design Competition.

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gleanings from press

Climate neutral T-shirts from SwitcherSince January 2009, the Swiss textile company Switcher has been co-operating with myclimate in climate protection. All emissions of its collection “CO2 neutral” as well as print emissions of its catalogues are offset in a project promoting effi cient biomass stoves and briquetting in Uttarakhand, India.

Switcher has as its vision

“to become the fi rst Swiss textile group, with strong performance and profi tability, to adopt the principle of sustainable development on a worldwide basis”.

Myclimate is a Swiss foundation that is making a signifi cant and innovate contribution to climate protection and sustainable development. Myclimate is well-connected globally and is a leading quality provider of climate education and Carbon Management Services. Myclimate is also a renowned partner for carbon offsetting solutions via effective carbon offset projects.

In 1981, when he was still a student at the University of Lausanne, Robin Comelius fi rst launched the idea that was to become the Switcher trademark. For him, the sweatshirts of the “yuppy” era were too monotonous “rugby stripes and symbols of American colleges” and he dreamed of comfortable and colourful polo shirts, in solid colours, and above all, with no slogans. When it was launched, the fi rst collection included only two models: A T-shirt and a sweatshirt.

Tactical Response Combat Shirt featuring CORDURA Baselayer fabricInvista’s Cordura brand team has announced the launch of Atlanco’s new

Tru-Spec brand Tactical Response Combat Shirt featuring Cordura Baselayer fabric. The Tactical Response Combat Shirt is the latest addition to the Tru-Spec brand’s Tactical Response Uniform (TRU) line for tactical operations.

“We are excited to work with the Tru-Spec brand product development team on this new combat shirt for military, tactical, and law enforcement end-users,” said Cindy McNaull, Global Cordura brand Manager. “In addition to servicing today’s war fi ghters, this collaboration will expand the use of Cordura Baselayer fabric beyond military applications and will affordably equip hometown heroes with the latest proctective garment technology. The comfortable, breathable Cordura Baselayer fabric will be a valuable asset to those wearing the new Tactical Response Combat Shirt.”

Designed to be worn under protective vests, the Tactical Response Combat Shirt is a next-to-skin garment constructed with No Melt/No Drip Cordura Baselayer fabric, the secret to the shirt’s protective qualities. The 60/40 cotton-nylon fi bre blends reduces these verity of burn injuries by chaming instead of melting when exposed to heat. Known for its durability and abrasion-resistant characteristics, Cordura Baselayer fabric provides a comfortable, breathable, lightweight solution with exceptional moisture management properties.

“Cordura Baselayer fabric was the obvious choice for us during the TRU combat shirt design process,”said Atlanco’s Vice President of Marketing. Darrell Jacks. “The fabric’s proven performance military protective gear further motivated our support of the brand’s technology. By ustilising Cordura Baselayer fabric in the TRU Combat Shirt, the Tru-Spec brand tear maintains its commitment to making affordable cutting-edge textile technologies available to individual operators, as well as teams and units.”

Atlanco’s Tru-Spec brand launched its dynamic, full featured Tactical

Response Uniform in 2006 to address the special needs of tactical offi cers. Since the uniform’s introduction, the TRU line has become leading choice of tactical teams everywhere. I addition to exceptional comfort and enhanced safet the Tactical Response Combat Shirt features a modturtleneck designed for style and comfort, gussete sleeves for easy movement, convenient zippere sleeve storage.

The Tru-Spec brand Combat shirt’s fully function sleeves, based on the original TRU design, are made from Cordura NYCO fabric. Available in two high performance fabric options, the Tactical Response Combat Shirt features MultiCam sleeves with a sar colour body and a separate army digital version with a foliage colour body that incorporates 50/50 nylon cotton No Melt, No Drip rip-stop sleeves in the AC pattern. The solid colour options _ Black, Olive Dra and Khaki _ are available in 65/35 polyester-cotton rip-stop sleeves but do not provide thermal protection qualities.

Textiles to barely manage last year’s figuresMr. JN Singh, Joint secretary, Ministry of TextilesAs the fi scal draws to an end, textile experts are confi rming the worst fears of the Indian textile and clothing sector. The sector that commanded a market share $51 billion in 2007-08 might just stop short of $50 billion in 2008-09, thanks to a stagnating demand from domestic and global consumers.

Joint Secretary at the Ministry of textiles J.N. Singh said recently that India would just manage to hold on to $50 billion market size in 2008-09. “There could be a small 2-2.5% correction by the time we have the statistics with us towards fi scal end. In times of economic meltdown, it is fortunate that we will be able to maintain

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Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

www.clariant.in

Editor: Prabhat Trivedi Nirmal Punjabi

Editorial Co-ordinator: Gauri NadkarniConsulting Editor: Philips AbrahamEditorial Board: Sanjay Sathe, Pinakin Munshi, Rajinikanth Prasad

Feedback ?Send your suggestions/entries [email protected]

23colour chronicle 2 | 2009

gleanings from press

Printed and Published byPrabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

Design by Point-n-PixelPrinted by Multiple Images

the market size for a consecutive year,” he said.

India that $21 billion exports of textile and clothing in 2007-08 had a domestic market size of $29-30 billion during the period. In the current fi scal however, there has been a degrowth in the US and the EU markets for Indian exporters and a simultaneous stagnation in the domestic market. “Contrary to our expections of 15% growth in exports, our exports are feared to fall by 3% in 2008-09 owing to a drastic fall in demand from the US and the EU markets. Even in the domestic market, against the growth of 10%, we expect to see a mere 2-3% growth in the current fi scal owing to lack of consumer confi dence in the current economic crisis,” added Prashant Agarwal of Technopak.

Confederation of Indian Textile Industry’s Secretary General DK Nair indicated that considering these are tough times for the textile sector, it should consider it fortunate to have managed a fl at growth. “It is fortunate that we have been able to hold on to our market size without seeing any signifi cant dip in these times,” he said.

Apparel retailers move into small towns for growthApparel, retailers are poised to chase consumers in small towns, besides lower operating expenses, while aiming for a balanced presence across markets in a challenging economy.

Exploring the relatively unexplored markets are S Kumars’ Nationwide, Alok Industries and Welspun India’s Welspun

Retail.“The rationale is in fact the Tier 2, 3

and 4 cities, the amount of money that is available there and the amount of consumer growth happening there, there is a big shift happening for the consumer, especially in garments,” Nitin Kasliwal, managing director of S Kumars, said.

S. Kumars, known for premium brands such as Reid and Taylor and Belmonte, is launching a ‘mass brand’ for the Tier 3 and 4 cities at “very reasonable rate,” said Kasliwal.

Rival Arvind, which already has about 30 per cent of its revenue coming from Tier 2-3 cities, plants to locate a signifi cant share of 30 outlets to be added this year in Tier 3 cities, said J Suresh, chief executive, brand and retail.

Branded apparels and home furnishing maker Alok, owner of the H&A brand, is planning to triple it store count by next March, with a strong focus on the Tier 2 and 3 cities.

GAP to expand sourcing of textiles from IndiaUS-based clothing and accessories retailer GAP Inc. plans to increase its sourcing requirements of textiles and clothing from India in the near future. The retails chain head quartered in San Francisco imports products worth a billion dollars annually from Indian manufacturers.

In an open statement, Stan Raggio, Gap Inc’s senior vice president of international oursourcing, said, “We will continue to source from India. We work closely with many stakeholders and receive valuable and important help from the local NGO

community that assists our ongoing effort to ensure that our ongoing efforts to ensure that our products are manufactured in a socially responsible way. Our efforts in this important area will continue”.

Testing times ahead for India apparel exports to EUIndian textile and apparel manufacturers could face hurdles while exporting to the European Union (EU) in the coming year when a tough law on chemicals and their safe use come into force by December 2011, experts here warn. This will upset the import and export strategies of many besides having a signifi cant impact on supply chain management, they said. By December 1, 2011, producers or exporters will have to notify the Eurupean Chemicals Agency (CHA) if their goods contain hazardous properties of a substance on the candidate list of a new law called Registration, Evaluation Authorisation and Restriction of Chemical Substances (REACH). This will include dyes and pigments. The idea is to improve protection of human health and the environment from the hazards of chemicals. Companies manufacturing or importing more than one tonne of a chemical substance a year will be required to register the chemical in a central database. The general aim of REACH is to replace these potentially hazardous substances with safer alternatives whenever possible.

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