FRÉDÉRIC BAUPHOTOGRAPHS: JEAN BERNARD LASSARA

This book is a page of my life, an open window to my passion,

which is cuisine: a fusionist chocolate cuisine that surprises and questions.

I invite you to lose yourself in this extraordinary culinary parenthesis.

I dedicate this book to those who have made me,

and who loyally continue to do so!

Thank you to those who have given me these values, my values,

in life and in my work.

Through your actions you have always given me hope and confidence.

You allowed me to surpass myself, to write the future,

and to appreciate others.

To my parents, friends, teachers, and you, Rika, my wife,

I offer you this chapter of my life.

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Original title: Fusion Chocolat. Le chocolat dans la cuisine

First published in 2006 by Montagud Editores, S.A.

© Second English edition: Montagud Editores, S.A., 2008

© Frédéric Bau

© Jean Bernard Lassara

© Eric Pahl, Michael Debbane

© Montagud Editores, S. A., 2006

Ausiàs March, 25, 1º

08010 Barcelona. Spain.

Phone: +34 933 18 20 82

Fax: +34 933 02 50 83

E-mail: montagud@montagud.com

www.montagud.com

Editorial assistant: Mari Luz Mejido

Filmsetting: PC Fotocomposición, S.A.

Printing: Castuera, Industrias Gráficas, S.A.

Copyright Registration: NA 3396/2007

ISBN: 978-84-7212-117-1

Choco la t e i n Cu i s ine

Editorial Direction

CÈLIA PUJALS

Photography

JEAN BERNARD LASSARA

Frédéric Bau’s Assistant

SÉBASTIEN MICHEL

Artistic Direction

XAVIER CORRETJÉ

Translation

ERIC PAHL AND MICHAEL DEBBANE

Layout

RENÉ PALOMO

Production Direction

LUIS MIGUEL CALVO

FRÉDÉRIC BAU

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CONTENTS

FOREWORDPIERRE GAGNAIRE PIERRE HERMÉ

1012

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284

285

296

298

300

FINDING THE WAY

CHOCOLATE TECHNOTHE HISTORY

THE “BOUQUET” OF CHOCOLATE THE RIGHT TOUCH

THE MENU A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERY DISH

HORS D’ŒUVRES COLD APPETIZERS HOT APPETIZERS

WATER EARTH

CHEESES SWEET DELIGHTS MIGNARDISES

BASIC RECIPES

FLAVOR COMBINATIONS

INDEX OF PREPARATIONS

ALPHABETICAL INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

10

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

Today, Frédéric Bau is one of the most brilliant pastry chefs of his generation. He embodies all the qualities (sometimes

contradictory) that our time demands. His technique and his irreproachable understanding allow him to express his

true creative sense. Of course, this creative sense should always be backed by a precise and rigorous manual approach.

One of Frédéric’s contradictions is the apparent freedom he enjoys, all the while working at the heart of a company

that does much more than simply “make” chocolate. Although Valrhona is not your typical company, combining

the excellence of a product and making it meet the marketing needs of worldwide development is a rare thing indeed.

This daring wager is made by none other than Frédéric, the man who symbolizes Valrhona, or perhaps vice-versa.

Knowledge, ideas and philosophies are invariably diffused via human contacts that are fostered with others,

and by the depth of sincerity created in those relations.

What works in today’s world is inevitably passed on through the confidence of personal relations that one creates

around oneself. Frédéric BAU has this talent. He loves his work, his business, his clients… and chocolate.

He also possesses an innate sense of communication.

His kindness, enthusiasm, and competency allow him to relate with ease, simplicity and efficiency.

You have in your hands a surprising book, surprising like Frédéric.

It is rigorous, extremely precise and fascinating, since after all he is discussing chocolate, chocolates,

and still more chocolates.

However, this is the first time such a complete and creative discussion of chocolate has entered into my own domain,

that of savory foods. It is a book that you will bite into, devour, savor, and maybe even smell.

Thank you Fred.

Chef

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PIERRE HERMÉ

Passionate, creative, complete and determined are appropriate words to describe Frédéric Bau.

I noticed his passion during the first exchanges we ever had, a few years ago now, as Frédéric was applying

to be a pastry chef at Fauchon. A gleam in his eyes that never goes away, his vivacious spirit, the intensity

of his conversation, the will to always move ahead, and his perennially overachieving nature allow him,

at a very young age, to excel without waiting for the value of years.

When he delves into chocolate, he tastes, tests, listens, and documents until the material

reveals all its secrets to him.

You would think that Guanaja, Manjari, Caraïbes or Jivara is actually running through his veins. It comes as no

surprise that a master of all that is sweet would naturally want to try his hand at the savory: chocolate favors

the bridges between one and the other.

His creations are true masterpieces in the sense that they combine art with method, and audacity with masterful

creativity: he targets the essential, free of contrivances, with a simple credo: taste. He sets an example for the

entire profession. A great technician gifted with a rare sensibility, the will to impart knowledge and educate

his colleagues came quickly to him: he realized very early on that to help evolve this profession so steeped

in tradition, one must be open and willing to pass on information without reservation.

In these few lines, inevitably incomplete though they are, I have described the character of the man, the dear

friend who in this work will share with you his passion for the “good and beautiful”, with great sensitivity,

simplicity, and conviviality. Qualities he possesses himself.

I am proud to be his friend.

Pastry Chef

14

THE WAYFINDING

A PASTRY CHEF WHO DREAMS OF CUISINE…

Is it because I always dreamt of cuisine? Most certainly. It was my first vocation. In 1978 I took

my first steps in the world of cuisine alongside Marie France Ponsard, the great lady of Belleville,

in Meurthe-et-Moselle, at her highly revered restaurant, Le Bistroquet. At the time life was hard,

my father had just rejoined paradise. My fragility and young age couldn’t resist the life of such

a lively kitchen. In spite of Madame Ponsard’s attention and caring, the frantic moments intermingled

with perfection and accuracy in front of the “rings” won over my inexperience.

At the advice of my mother I returned to Metz to begin my apprenticeship as a pastry chef.

However, Marie France and Jean Ponsard had, unbeknownst to them, planted an indelible

grain of salt in me.

CHOOSING A PATH

And so it was that sweetness became my destiny, first at Kœnig, in Metz, where I began

my apprenticeship, then on to Auer, in Nice, where I finished it. It was in 1983 that I had the chance

to participate in my first competition for the best apprentice in France. I left Nice after a few years

and returned to my native Lorraine to see my dream as a young pastry chef come to life: to work for,

and more importantly with, Monsieur Bourguignon. Such a dream might seem insignificant

in retrospect, but it was very real to me, at the core of my being, in my guts, and in my heart.

It was rare that we ate sweets at home, but when we did they were Bourguignon pastries.

I was raised on casino, the delicious roulades with just enough kirsch added in so that

the kids would eat it, the creamy lemon tarts crowned with flambéed Swiss meringue,

the marjolaine, the golden Tatin tarts…

My dream became my reality. I hoped that my dad was proud of me, and that high above he could

see me making those same pastries for which he and my mother had sacrificed little savings in order

to treat my four brothers and my sister.

FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION

As with Gilles Marchal, Christophe Felder, or Yannick Labbé, this “Mr. Pastry” instilled in me the

values of the good and beautiful. Monsieur Bourguignon also tried to turn us into respectable and

respectful men and women. He sought to forge in us the values of the profession, but also his own

values, far beyond those of the great pastry chef that he is.

16

Through his generosity he allowed each of us to leave behind with him a trace of our stay. Mine, I

remember, was a cake, the Périclès, with mint and chocolate. It was also the first opportunity for

Christophe Felder and myself to have our competition of four hands, of which we’ve never known the

verdict! In fact, we dropped off the piece in the morning as was required but it had somehow

disappeared before the judging could take place.

Bourguignon, what a magnificent place! My memory is unalterable, and my palate still has a

recollection, almost identical, of the flavor of the meat pâtés, perfectly prepared; in my mind I still

have the aroma of the meat marinating in herbs and Alsatian wine, divine…

A PARANTHESIS FOR THE FUTURE…

I then discovered restaurant work. A year spent in a restaurant when I was too young, too alone,

without a mirror, without critique. My only challenge was to please that rather particular chef, who

was subject to changing moods.

REVELATION BY THE MASTER

So on the advice of Joël Bellouet I took the big step and moved “up” to the capital to join Pierre Hermé

at Fauchon. It was the grand époque.

Not only that of Pierre Hermé, future genius of all that is sweet, but also of pâtisserie in general that,

thanks to the vision of men of talent and charisma like him, was in the process of becoming

an altogether different pâtisserie: a gastronomic pâtisserie, a pâtisserie of “taste”.

They were two revealing years, a time that allowed me to decide that my life would be sweet.

How could one resist the passion and fascinating creativity of Pierre Hermé! He knew how to train

those, in his quest for the best and the different, who were willing to fully devote themselves,

and to surpass their expectations. There were no compromises with him, never an “almost” or

“not bad” because, he would often say, within “not bad” there is already “bad”.

Two years of pure joy, accomplishment, and revelation: the feeling of beginning to understand that

within artisan there is art. When the opportunity presented itself I would cross the street to rejoin

the kitchens where the old chef Monsieur Primaut of the transatlantic cruise ship “France”,

and his large brigade still resided over the flames. I was happy to be among the savory smells

and flavors that brought me back to my first “loves”.

UNCONSCIOUSNESS

November 22, 1987, was the consequential day when Pierre Hermé introduced me to Antoine Dodet. The

then marketing director of Valrhona came by to meet me and measure up my potential for the position of

head pastry chef of the company. I was overcome by a feeling of anxiety: how could I accept a responsibility

like this at 22 years old? …Who was simply and blindly following the recommendations of his boss!

It was decided, and I left for Tain l’Hermitage just after the New Year. In part, I owe a slice of my

chocolate life to Antoine Dodet who dared to recruit such a young and inexperienced candidate as

myself purely on the confidence that he had in Pierre Hermé and perhaps in me… what do I know?

I began at Valrhona on January 18, 1988. Antoine, the young general manager of the company,

disappeared all too soon in 1990.

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THE MODEL TO COPY

It was Paul who received me, Paul Bernard-Brêt, the great chocolatier who I didn’t know at the time.

The story is too long to recount here, so let us move on to the present.

For seventeen years I discovered, apprehended, and learned my new line of work as trainer, and especially

as chocolatier. Actually, training is perhaps not so much a profession as a state of mind, a way of being.

The great voyage began. At Valrhona I discovered what was until then an unknown world to me, that

of rare cacao beans, exceptional blends and the finest varieties, of which Valrhona was the leader.

For the first time I touched and tasted chocolate nibs, and I can still remember they were from Grenada.

The master roaster spoke to me with his words. They were his own: full of life, feeling, and flavor.

However, at this point we still did not taste the cacao, we smelled it. He took me on a walk, passing

my nose over each sack of nibs as we went. Like the flavors, the colors change as well. “You see that

here we can travel rather inexpensively,” he said to me. It was almost true; I was a young, happy pastry

chef. We were there, the two of us, amidst dozens of sacks burgeoning with goodness while Paul led

me through a dream. I had my nostrils wide open in front of all that. There it was, the mystery of

chocolate revealed before my very eyes.

The nuggets of cacao intrigued me and gave life to my cravings.

My thoughts were, of course, sweet! However, to avoid stretching out the story of my life too much,

let us simply say that a few months later we had developed, with Pierre Hermé, the surprising and

almost instantly classic cacao nib nougatine.

Valrhona followed our lead and the nibs arrived in the laboratories. It was the beginning of 1989.

Crazy about cuisine, but more generally about everything good that could be eaten or drank, and

from all over, I was already thinking savory.

THE MASTER’S VOICE

I still remember Paul saying to me, “The nibs, after all, are almost like peanuts or almonds, peeled,

toasted, and chopped, with or without a little sugar.” It was Paul who would become, little by little,

my truth, and my “chocolate mentor”.

Indeed, after many years at Valrhona he knew everything, or almost everything, on the subject.

Although Paul had long since left pâtisserie to devote himself to the great calling of chocolate, he

preserved intact his love for pâtisserie, and for all things gourmand. He possessed a monstrous

amount of knowledge as a chocolate confectioner. It was he who taught me everything about

chocolate, and it was also he that introduced me to emulsion… Which, for those who know me, is

something that they will certainly find amusing!

THE STRENGTH TO BELIEVE IN YOURSELF

The seven years I spent beside Paul were decisive in regard to my professional plan. We discovered,

appreciated, respected, and completed each other. Paul and myself began to organize training sessions

that were preliminarily his. I followed him, drank of his words, nourished myself from his knowledge

and delighted myself with his generosity as a father figure.

L’Ecole du Grand Chocolat sprouted into existence. These years not only served to consolidate the

confidence I had in my abilities, but equally to reinforce what inspired me about this complex

product, chocolate.

18

FRÉDÉRIC AND SÉBASTIEN,DURING LONG SHIFTS IN THE

KITCHEN TO CRYSTALLIZE

OUR IDEAS

JEAN BERNARD LASSARA, RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHS IN THISBOOK, AND WITH WHOM I SPENT SO MANY WONDERFUL MOMENTS IN THESTUDIO… AND IN THE KITCHEN!

I began to work and travel a lot, to learn the world. I became more and more passionate about

chocolate, and little by little my appreciation for its complexity and generosity grew. To accomplish

one’s work as a pastry chef, all the while thinking that a certain product attracts and allures us more

than another is an almost jubilant feeling. I had the chance to share some of my time with the

agricultural engineers of the company who, with their trained eyes, “unlike mine”, helped me to

discover the “behind the scenes” of ingredients. Better still: the behind the scenes of pastry cooking. I

discovered a special affection for this little applied technology. It is rather exciting to begin to

understand how it all works, to figure out what caused my failures and my successes. The trainings

became a bit more focused, with more appropriate words and examples that are easy to understand; it

was the beginning of pedagogy, of the knowledge of teaching.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PROFESSION IN THE WORLD

This “privilege” is often only attributed to professors.

However, it is also a part of training: the opportunity to enrich the lives of others is a pleasure that all

teachers share.

In the crazy adventure of L’Ecole du Grand Chocolat, I was joined successively by Elizabeth Junique,

Gérald Maridet, Vincent Bourdin, Yann Duytsche, Jean Pascal Brunière, Olivier Lemauviot, Sébastien

Michel, Michael Loonis, Michael Verdier, David Capy, Julie Haubourdin, Tamar Marchand, Isabelle

Lecomte and Philippe Givre.

Seventeen years of pleasures, and sometimes worries, but a place where everyone with their talent,

generosity, and spirit, contributed to the development of our school.

19

RECOGNITION

1995: Au Coeur des Saveurs. More than a dream it was an opportunity that Montagud presented to me; of

course, it was a dream opportunity to be able to write what we wanted to say, to better diffuse the

knowledge. I, however, was not still of an age when I needed my ego flattered by the recognition of my

“fathers”, and I admit that writing a book was not part of my plan at the time. In all modesty I did not

think that I was sufficiently “old or recognized” to dream about writing a book at that time of my life.

Destiny decided otherwise and Montagud – a publisher internationally revered by our profession

today – took an interest in me.

As he was always available for advice, Pierre Hermé told me to go ahead. Thrilled, I began the project,

still not sure what I had to say or write. After a few meetings I succeeded in finding within myself the

desire to convey a part of my knowledge, or more importantly my understanding.

After two and a half years, Au Coeur des Saveurs would finally see the light of day.

It is the fruit of an intimate labor on the part of my close friend, photographer Jean Bernard Lassara,

my mother Bernadette, and Yann Duytsche, my friend and beloved assistant. Jean Bernard gave the

content its gourmandise, Bernadette preserved the sentiment of my words while giving them an

indispensable elegance, and Yann accompanied me in this unique adventure with his ever-critical eye

and creativity. Two years of pleasure, but also of stress, to finally see the realization of a book that fits

in line with my original vision.

FIRST STEPS

Drenched in chocolate and sweets, I had a thirst to see chocolate from a different angle. From the

moment the opportunity presented itself, I broke away from the sweet to the savory, with the idea still in

my mind that chocolate “is like peanuts or almonds, peeled, toasted, and with or without a little sugar”.

In our small laboratory in the Villa Genthon my experiments began. My first discovery came about by

daring to mix, as a culinary delirium, chocolate with my lobster sauce américaine. I was preparing for a

challenge, my baptismal fire as it were, that would be the tradeshow in Lyon during which the famous

world cup of pâtisserie takes place.

Gabriel Paillasson created it with the assistance of Valrhona, the official sponsor. In this exposition,

Valrhona sets up a special stand, more like a room, where we welcome and indulge the clients. My

accomplice Paul and myself were a little weary after preparing the finest petits-fours that we knew how

to make at the time, which meant starting at 4 o’clock in the morning, to find that they went

unnoticed and unappreciated. It became clear that for pastry chefs it was about nothing but petits-

fours. So ours were nothing really surprising or original in themselves, understandably so.

ALWAYS DARE TO SURPRISE…

So the desire captured me to “dare to cook” in order to surprise myself beyond anything else. I began my

first experiments. This is in September 1990 and the dishes needed to be “palatable” for the show in

January 1991.

Memories of my childhood came back to me. My grandmother’s coq au vin, with a few squares of

chocolate thrown in right at the end, came to mind. I began to skim through cookbooks to discover

that the use of chocolate in our gastronomy is not new, and even less so in certain other world

cuisines, like in Mexico for example.

20

More than anything, I noticed that chocolate is often used in small doses, more for its emulsifying

virtues, or to give a dish a more satiny texture; satiny, because friends in the profession often say,

“it’s to give the sauce a satiny touch”, or “to give it some silkiness” as Auguste Escoffier said in his

books. Emboldened by this discovery and knowing that after all “chocolate is like toasted peanuts

or almonds, with or without a bit of sugar!”, I decided to let my imagination wander even farther:

chocolate should then become the perfuming product in all my dishes, not just an element that is

there, “behind the scenes”.

QUITE SIMPLY...CRAZY ABOUT CUISINE

The idea had not occurred to me – note the temptation – to claim the invention of chocolate in

cuisine. I have too much respect for our predecessors and, besides, the pastry chef within would be

very careful to claim anything in regard to material within the realm of chocolate cuisine. My desire is

none other than to share my delirium for cuisine… with chocolate, in hopes of achieving one thing:

to discover unexpected, bold, curious, and daring new flavors, but also to make you understand that

in some respect, if you will, chocolate “is a bit like peanuts or almonds, toasted and chopped,

with or without a little sugar.”

I incidentally remember and am very thankful to Frédérick Grasser-Hermé, an unparalleled chef

and journalist, who had the kindness to publish an article in Le Figaro dedicated to my “Norway

lobster with chocolate”.

Thanks to Frédérick’s intransigent character, I felt proud and happy to find that I was on the right

track!

THE CONFIDENCE OF OTHERS

A man’s story often relies on the vision and perspective of others.

If I was able to accomplish all of this with such equanimity, without fear of what will they think, it is

thanks to many of you who, by the manner in which you judge, the way you are and think, allowed

me to forge ahead and often abstract myself from hasty judgments. Throughout all these years, I have

always been accompanied by:

– Valrhona, who accepts that I “cook” with my team at each Sirha show in Lyon. It is an occasion for us

to surpass ourselves and escape from the beaten path. But more than anything it is a chance to welcome

all the greatest pâtissiers and chefs of the world and let them discover my crackpot gourmand ideas.

– The Savoy hotel in London, temple of Escoffier, who asked me to demonstrate to curious

Londoners my chocolate cuisine. Thank you Mr. Edelman.

– The Raffles hotel in Singapore, a colonial palace, where they also dared to discover savory

chocolate. I had the privilege to work alongside the brothers Pourcel, Gordon Ramsey, and Alain

Ducasse for this prestigious event - the Food and Wine Experience. Thank you Freddy Schmitt and

Peter Knipp for your support.

– Eyvind Hellstrøm and his Bagatelle in Oslo, temple of the good and beautiful, who also “signed

up” for the chocolate dinners in his mythical restaurant, with his remarkable team. Thank you

Hellstrøm, and to your wife.

– Marc Decank and his Chronique in Montreal, where happiness is found in his kitchen. I shared

many unforgettable moments of teaching and passion with Marc and his assistant Olivier de Montigny

over the course of a few chocolate soirées.

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– Cyril Jamet, friend and chef from Ardèche who was one of the first to taste my extravagances

and to believe in me. His advice has always been valid and treasured. He also permitted me to cook

at his “piano”.

– Alain Dutournier, who, with uncommon generosity opened the doors of his Carré des feuillants in

Paris to me, to surprise the palates of a few journalists, curious parties and gourmands. The

experience of those two days, surrounded by his assistants and collaborators, was an indescribable

privilege and joy.

Not to forget Philippe Girardon, Paul Bocuse, Pierre Orsi, Michel Troisgros, my friends, and many

others who offered me a few minutes of their time along with their expert palates without

compromise: you have all contributed in encouraging me and my slightly daring, if not outright bold

ideas.

Thanks to your opinions, critiques and advice, in particular that of my wife Rika who, time and time

again while tasting would tell me the “truth”, these “gastronomic visions” were given the chance to

become reality!

A million thanks to all of you.

UNION CREATES WEALTH

One of my collaborators, Sébastien Michel, a pastry chef with savory taste buds, accepted the offer to

embark on the adventure with me. Sébastien has accompanied me in many of my “savory

parentheses” and it is with him that I have often achieved my first dinners with chocolate.

Head pastry chef along side Régis Marcon for four years, he nourished himself on the atmosphere of

perfect gourmandise and exigency that prevails at L’Auberge des cimes and at the heart of Régis Marcon.

With his training as a chef, supported by his creativity and his gourmand instinct, his hand has

enriched the ideas and recipes of this book.

Thank you Sandy, chef and longtime friend, for being available at all times, even while on duty, to

offer us your brilliant comments and to sensitize us to the “chef’s details” that make such a difference.

FRÉDÉRIC BAUwww.fredericbau.com

contact@fredericbau.com

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TECHNOCHOCOLATE

THE HISTORY

HISTORY OF CUISINES

We could begin by covering ancient history. Cuisines of the world use many kinds of nuts in their

dishes to add color, flavor or unctuousness. In western cultures, nuts are often used for their

thickening qualities due to their high fat content, and for their emulsifying powers. In eastern

cultures, however, they are sought after more for their perfuming attributes, like the sesame seed

and the peanut… Though much less frequent than the universal use of butter, chocolate is not itself

a new element in western cuisine. Auguste Escoffier already included it in his preparations. In fact,

we find chocolate in many western recipes, in particular wine sauces of which the grand veneur,

to name but one, is a nice example.

I consulted several works on the subject and surfed the net, and I found that chocolate has actually

been used in western cuisine for quite a while, but almost exclusively in what we might call

“homeopathic” quantities. In fact, it has been welcomed as an emulsifier, a coloring additive, and used

to give a more silky texture to dishes, but in such small doses that it is almost negligible.

It is rare that a recipe should call for chocolate on the simple basis of its flavor or the unique aromatic

qualities it expresses. Our culinary traditions tend to use fats such as butter, cream, or oil. Each

of these fats more or less possesses the same emulsifying qualities while offering varied flavors

and contrasting textures.

A QUESTION OF CULTURE

For historical reasons, every country and region gives priority to the use of certain types of fat.

All available are generally used according to regional cultures. Some are used purely on the basis

of flavor, like olive oil, butter, or heavy creams. Others are used in certain applications for the texture

they bestow on the dish, such as the use of lard in the traditional bugnes of Lyon, or in certain

other similar specialties. Butter and oils, for example, are often used in dishes that require

their emulsifying powers such as mayonnaise, beurre blanc, beurre nantais, or béarnaise sauces.

In Japan and China, sesame paste is used in many dishes, whereas in South-East Asia, particularly

Malaysia and Thailand, the sesame is replaced by roasted peanuts, either whole or in paste, to crown

countless dishes across the region. In Mexico, mole is a good example of “chocolate cuisine”.

However, contrary to many cuisines of the world, in France there is scarce use of such nuts

as pistachio, sesame seed, hazelnut, and even less of chocolate!

24

FROM THE BEAN TO CHOCOLATE, THE DIVINE ROAD

The treeThe cacao tree has evolved over millions of years, first under pressure from their environment,

and later due to man. Today they are divided into three large groups: the criollos, known for being less

productive but of very high quality; the forasteros, robust and vigorous but whose cacao is less intense;

and the trinitarios, a term that encompasses all the hybrids of the other two species. However, this

classification is more representative than anything else, as we will see when we look a little

further on, each kind is capable of producing the best “varieties”.

The fruitThe fruit of a cacao tree can resemble a squash. It propagates. With each heavy rain it flowers and six

months later the tree exhibits a few pods that manage to develop and ripen. Inside the pods we find

a kind of cluster that holds about forty beans. They are surrounded by a white pulp that is juicy,

sweet, and lightly acidic.

The variety Theobroma cacao produces large beans capable of being transformed into cacao. Other

varieties have been cultivated principally for their pulp, and especially the wine that could be

extracted from them. The interior of the beans varies from the most intense violet of the forasteros

to the white of the criollos, of which the famous porcelanas portray an opalescent whiteness,

the color of porcelain.

THE CACAO POD

25

THE LAND

Countries of production65 to 70% of worldwide production takes place in Africa, in particular the Ivory Coast and Ghana.

Indonesia follows next, then Cameroon, Nigeria, and Brazil. Cacao is also found in the majority

of countries in the tropical belt, many of which have converted it into a specialty even if their levels

of production are far lower than the preceding cases (e.g., Venezuela, Equator, Dominican Republic).

Others only harvest very small quantities (Trinidad, Java, Belize, Sao Tome).

The environmentWithin a single country, the altitude, amount of sunshine, soil, and rain patterns all play a factor in

the development of cacao trees. It is easily noticeable how the fruits will grow and ripen differently

depending on the richness of the soil, the availability of water, the ambient heat and the sunshine.

A company like Valrhona, in particular, clearly knew how to profit from these variables by planting

trees in very different terrains: one species, Porcelana del Pedregal, in rocky granite soil on the side

of a mountain in Venezuela, another on a small plateau perched above thick vegetation, like Palmira,

also in Venezuela.

THE TRANSFORMATION ON THE PLANTATION

The harvestThe cacao tree is a perennial, presenting all the cycles of maturation the entire year, from the flower

to the pod. The rainy seasons influence the production of the fruit. It is here that the quality

of a chocolate begins.

It all depends on a perfect understanding of the trees and, above all, surveillance and perfect

maintenance of the plantation. For example, particular attention must be paid to the successive

passages in the plots of land that facilitate the collection of fruits as they reach their maturity.

To ensure a consistent quality of production from one year to the next, special care must be taken

while cutting the pods. In fact, if the floral cushion that gives it support is damaged after cutting,

it is likely that the following year the yield will be malformed, or there will be no fruit at all.

The extraction of the beansThis stage consists of breaking the fruit in order to extract the beans. For a perfect result, and to avoid

shattering the pods, something that causes an unalterable bitterness, the operation is often done

by hand.

The fermentationWithout fermentation there is no aroma. This type of fermentation is particularly unique, but from

a chemical point of view it is very similar to that of the grape. Wine becomes vinegar as well.

The facilities of a plantation are by no means as sophisticated as those that one would find in

a winery. Often the process is left entirely up to the manager of the plantation alone. We might

jokingly call him “the Count of Cacao”. He is the equivalent of the master vintner, conducting

the fermentation of the pulp, stirring it time and again and stopping it at the correct moment,

after 3 to 7 days or more, depending on the cacao and the climatic conditions at the time.

26

During this stage the pulp ferments, acidifies, and reheats, sometimes up to more than 50ºC/122ºF.

This creates certain conditions that provoke the transformation of the bean in an indirect way.

In fact, the bean “dies” in order to “resurrect” itself renewed.

This fermentation allows the formation of a kind of “soup”: here are the renowned “precursors

to aromas”. A magical process thus begins, revealing simple aromas, like fruity, floral notes, or more

complex ones like pyrazinoics.

The drying stageTwo principal functions: first, to reduce the water content for the conservation of the fermented cacao;

second, to provide natural warmth which facilitates the creation of nutty, toasted aromas through

natural and complex reactions.

After several cleaning processes of selection and caliber, more or less mechanical, the cacao is placed

in 60-kilogram gunnysacks that are then transferred to large containers, and the ship sets off to sea,

destined for European ports.

THE TRANSFORMATION IN THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY

Quality control in fruit receptionThe methods of control are numerous: the odor, texture, and above all the cut of the beans.

For this we employ a variant of the well known “guillotine” that allows us to cut the beans from

end to end. It is like radiography for the bean, and it allows us to verify that proper fermentation

has taken place.

Round two: the cacao is used to make a test chocolate and then tasted by a jury of experts to confirm

that the sensory profile obtained is in accordance with the standards established for each origin.

Depending on the verdict, we are then in a position to accept or decline the shipment of cacao.

BELOW, GUILLOTINE. RIGHT, GUILLOTINE WITH BEANS CUT LENGTHWISE.

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AN INTIMATE VIEW OF THE BEAN ALLOWS US TO SEE ITS DEVELOPMENT.

OPPOSITE, A CUT CRIOLLO BEAN.

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The roasting processSlowly roasted at a low temperature, the beans, at this stage still referred to as green, begin to develop

the aromas of chocolate. It is like developing a photograph and beginning to see the positive image.

After a 45 to 50 minute supervised roasting, the beans are cooled to facilitate the subsequent removal

of the shells and grinding.

ROASTING

GREEN BEANS ROASTED BEANS CRACKED BEANS NIBS

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GrindingThis process is accomplished with the help of a winnower, a machine that delicately separates

the beans from their shells by friction in order to grind the grain that is found inside.

Little black nuggets are obtained that fill the air with their unique fragrance: the nibs are born.

This process represents a 20% loss in overall weight of the beans.

BlendingThe distinct nibs are blended according to quasi-secret formulas devised by talent and knowledge,

and then passed on to the mill.

Thanks to the high cocoa butter content and the heat from the cacao mill, the mixture becomes

an unctuous dough known as cocoa paste, or in the jargon of chocolatiers, “chocolate liquor”.

Mixing the pasteBy introducing sugar to the mixture, in variable amounts, the liquor begins to resemble chocolate,

at least in flavor, but its texture remains granulated: around 80 microns.

RefiningA fine grinding provides texture and density to the eventual chocolate. Recently ground, and under

enormous pressure, the paste becomes powder and reaches a fineness (at Valrhona) of 14/15 microns.

COCOA PASTE, ALSO CALLED CHOCOLATE LIQUOR

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MIXING THE PASTE

BLENDING

REFINING

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ConchingThe powder, which now has a chocolate color, is ready to enter into the decisive phase of a great

chocolate: conching. For those of us who are patissiers or chefs it is natural to liken this process

to the reduction of a sauce. The flavor is there, it simply needs to be magnified. Everything can be

perfectly done up to this point, but if the reduction is too hastily performed or poorly achieved

then the result will be disappointing. For many hours at low temperatures the chocolate is heated

and stirred to slowly attain a flavorful balance and silky texture. After 72 hours of conching,

the chocolate crystallizes.

MoldingThere are different forms of molded chocolate. We find it in blocks, beans, drops, or bars, among

others. Regardless of the shape, however, the chocolate must always be tempered to facilitate

de-molding and give it a shiny aspect and brittle quality.

CONCHING

MOLDING

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHOCOLATE COUVERTURES

Composition of a Valrhona 70% cocoa Guanaja

type couverture, including the added cocoa

butter - indispensable for fluidity in the molding

process and for enrobing.

Composition of a Valrhona 67% cocoa Extra

Amer (Bitter) laboratory chocolate, a product not

intended for molding or enrobing,

with importance given to density due to the lack

of cocoa butter.

LECITHINLECITHIN

NATURAL VANILLA

NATURAL VANILLA

ADDED COCOABUTTER

CACAO NIBS

CACAO NIBS

SUGAR

SUGAR

Composition of a Valrhona 40% cocoa Jivara

Lactée type milk chocolate couverture.

Composition of a Valrhona Ivoire type

couverture containing 35% cocoa butter.

LECITHIN LECITHIN

NATURAL VANILLA

NATURAL VANILLA

MILK

MILK

SUGAR

CACAO NIBS

ADDED COCOABUTTER

COCOA BUTTER

CASSONADE SUGAR

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34

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THE “BOUQUET” OF CHOCOLATETasting fine chocolate creates an escalating pleasure that culminates in the liberation of the aromatic

ensemble in the mouth. Appreciating a fine chocolate requires an analysis from different points

of view and the use of all of our senses.

HOW TO TASTE A FINE CHOCOLATE

Fine chocolate is brittle, crisp and aromatic, it melts in your mouth and has a long finish.

The physiology of tasteTaste is a privilege afforded to human beings. Many other mammals neither possess this faculty, nor

the “intelligence” necessary to discern between tastes. To practice it we must employ all our senses.

In fact, the “simple” tasting of a food triggers a series of sensors which, placed one after the other

and synthesized with the references of each, provide an analysis, a perception, but above all else

an intensity of pleasure that is unique and exclusive each time.

This should convince us that the phrase “I don’t have a palate” is never true, except of course

in certain medical cases. Our sensors await material to analyze, materials to “process”. They have

a memory that is inconceivable to us, and a capacity to discover and interpret that is beyond

imagination! It is marvelous machinery which our alimentary habits, unfortunately, take too little

advantage of. Here, we will discuss the operating principals of our senses, or, more precisely, how

organoleptic information (in relation to taste) is materialized and recorded.

Odor is a volatile molecule that is emitted by a food and directly perceived by mucous membranes

of the nose (detected through inhaling).

e.g.: the smell of freshly baked, warm bread crust.

Flavor is a chemical molecule captured by receptors on the tongue: taste buds.

These receptors are distributed in an unequal manner and are principally concentrated at the tip

of the tongue, the sides, and the back. The five fundamental flavors are: sour, bitter, sweet, salty

and umami (Asian cuisine frequently uses products with this flavor, such as soy sauce).

Aroma is a volatile molecule that is freed by the effect of chewing and the increase in temperature.

This molecule is captured by the exhaling air past the retro-nasal mucous membranes.

e.g.: floral notes, fruitiness (of berries or stone fruits) or spices.

Prepare the senses….As with a wine, spirit, or cigar, tasting a chocolate requires that all our senses be alert. It is a good idea

to relax in a calm setting for a few moments before in order to fully perceive all the aromatic subtleties.

The pleasure of sightAs with wine, we appraise the “robe” of a fine chocolate. Depending on the origins of the cacao bean,

its color can vary from a glistening mahogany brown to a flat, intense black.

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Listen…Fine chocolates are distinguished by their crispness. The break should be clean and emit a deep

sound. Paradoxically, afterwards the texture should surprise you by the way it melts harmoniously

in the mouth.

On the palate…Inhale, wait a few seconds, then exhale through the mouth. Let the chocolate melt in the mouth slowly,

coating the palate; continue breathing and… boom! This brief moment when everything explodes,

everything reveals itself, comprised of flavors and smells that we never would have thought to discover.

Let it melt completely, exhale, taste… and begin again. It is often necessary to taste a chocolate several

times to experience all of its nuances. Envelop the chocolate, let it melt on your tongue, move it around

in your mouth to appreciate the flavors, and exhale in order to measure its full aromatic richness.

Appreciate the aromas…Fine chocolates are quite often more complex, due to their richness. The unctuosity overwhelms,

from the first bite, with a bouquet of flavors and aromas.

Learn to distinguish the very volatile aromas from the beginning. To do this, let the chocolate melt

on your tongue and exhale through your nose, with the aim of introducing these first liberated aromas

to the nasal mucous membranes. You will notice the fruity, floral, or spiced notes… Then concentrate

on the flavors. An acidic chocolate will make you salivate, while bitterness remains in the back of

the throat. The less volatile aromas are released at the end of the tasting, prolonging the persistence

of the chocolate. You will perceive notes of camphor (a taste similar to tapenade), toasted nuts

or mushrooms depending on the origins of the cacao. The faults: flat, too short in the mouth, parasitic

notes (smoked, burnt, or moldy…), insufficient fermenting (too bitter or too astringent), or excessive

fermenting (animal notes).

THE AROMA, A SIGN OF GOOD ROASTING

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THE ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF CHOCOLATES

Different types of chocolatesIn general terms, different types of chocolates can be grouped, according to their basic composition,

into three large categories determined by taste and aroma. The essential difference between them is

in the proportions of main ingredients: chocolate, milk, and sugar.

Dark chocolates

The color of a good dark chocolate can vary from a red mahogany to the most intense black.

The bitterness can be moderate, leaving space for other aromas, or it can dominate, to express the full

force and character of the beans.

Dark chocolates can present very different organoleptic profiles, sometimes simple, sometimes very

rich and original. The dominant aromas could be: floral, fruity (berries, stone fruits, figs, raisins…),

spicy (cinnamon, spice bread, honey, vanilla…), or pyrazinoic (warm bread, toasted almonds and

walnuts or roasted nibs…). Other sensory characteristics can develop according to the origins of

the cacao such as camphor, or even hints of green vegetables or grass, fresh mushrooms, licorice…

Milk chocolates

These are differentiated by the balance between lactic and chocolate aromas. A good milk chocolate

should be unctuous rather than sticky. Bitterness, which is sometimes present, should quickly give

way to the lactic acidity and aromas. The dominant aromas can be vanilla, caramel, or sometimes

biscuit depending on the chocolate.

RECENTLY GROUND CHOCOLATE POWDER, AROUND 15 MICRONS

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White chocolates

These should be a glistening yellow color (not too pale and not too dark).

The texture should be unctuous without leaving the mouth coated with a greasy film. The flavors

should be well balanced: it is better if they are more acidic than bitter. A hint of salt can appear at

times, accompanying aromas like biscuit and caramel. White chocolate should not be astringent, and

their aromas can be more or less rich, with lactic notes of vanilla, caramel, or biscuit… Whites can

also easily absorb parasitic aromas. Quality chocolates should be free of any hints of cheese, rancidity,

or flavors resembling metal or paper.

THE CULTURE OF DIFFERENCE

But beyond this general classification, which is understood by the majority of consumers, certain

chocolate makers have taken it upon themselves to attain new levels of excellence by offering select

products of superior quality, that reflect the richness of cacao from different origins, as well as their

flavorful and aromatic diversity. This is the world of the “grands crus” in which, like great wines,

the characteristics of the origin of the cacao and the aptitude of the chocolatier in the art of

production convey to the discerning consumer their enormous flavorful and aromatic potential. Each

chocolatier, or maker of chocolate couvertures, possesses his own history, culture, vision, and market.

Just like a vintner, a chocolatier chooses a “niche” market with minimum production and reasonable

returns, to offer unique and exceptional products, or a mass market with the idea of flooding

the market with a more or less banal product, conceived, made, and marketed to “please everyone”.

Unfortunately, the world chocolate panorama leans toward this banal market profile, where price is

the determining factor. It is the same for many consumer products: wines, vegetables, meats, fruits…

After reading the magnificent, intense history of a company like Valrhona I realized that this culture

of difference has always been present, up to the minute details. Even in the service records of the time,

in the recipes and suggestions, this need to be different has always been explicitly stated. It is

obviously more difficult to seduce the consumer with very specialized products, but the objective

is not to please everyone. Rather, it is to seduce the professionals and consumers that are in search

of something else, something different—sensations that are distinctive and excellent.

It is a philosophy to which I adhere. There is so much more to talk about, to discuss and exchange,

when we taste unique products with excellent flavors than to simply say, “it’s good, I was hungry”.

The buyers, or better said, the “finders” of the beans, on returning from their travels sometimes bring

back rare beans of forgotten origins, often of very limited production. It is their mission, their raison

d’être. The engineers, the tasters, the pastry chefs, as well as the jury of experts await their discoveries

as if they were gold. Afterwards, these few grams or kilos of beans are converted into precious

chocolate bars. Chocolate that will never exist as such, but which serves to provide future blends with

strength, delicacy, and who knows what else! The professionals at Valrhona taste, imagine, materialize,

and map out the organoleptic profiles of cacao beans from around the world.

It is thanks to this “cacao library”, exclusive and unique in the world, that after reflection, association,

tasting and more tasting, the fine blends of Valrhona chocolate are born.

It is the company’s culture.

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DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF CACAO

40

ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF THE ORIGINS OF CACAO

Depending on the part of the world where the cacao comes from, this displays, as we have seen

above, different characteristics of flavor and aroma. This “personality” is determined by the terrain,

which forms the cacao and makes it unique. Here are a few examples:

ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*

FLORALFRUITY

TOASTED

SPICED

CAMPHORIC

Profile of Madagascar cacaoMadagascar cacao beans produce chocolates

that are intense with long finishes, due to

the release of acidic and fruity notes that are

quickly accompanied by warm aromas

of toasted nuts.

* Translator’s note: from French, chocolaté is a term coinedby Valrhona to describe the intensity of the chocolate flavor.

Source: cacaothèque Valrhona

ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*

FLORALFRUITY

TOASTED

SPICED

CAMPHORIC

ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*

FLORALFRUITY

TOASTED

SPICED

CAMPHORIC

Profile of Ecuador cacaoCacao beans from Ecuador allow us to make bitter

chocolates that present contrasts of light and

very floral notes that give way to toasted notes

in the finish.

Profile of Trinidad cacaoCacao beans from Trinidad yield a characteristic

chocolate, with a very long finish due to its

predominant camphor aroma, accompanied by

fruity notes and warm, toasted and spiced flavors.

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42

ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF FINE BLENDS

The blendsRarely do we talk about what is, or should be, the job of a couverturier.

We focus on the fruits and their origins and not enough on the blends and the process

of production, which is equally important in the end result. As with wine, it is the “touch” of each

manufacturer that provides diversity and richness. We should then accept that the difference

in the flavor of a chocolate essentially comes from expertise in mixing the cacao nibs. It is an

ancestral knowledge, where only the perception of women and men intervene, guided by a will to

create new sensations. The goal is to bring about more complex aromas, and offer unexpected

flavors.

When new chocolates are produced, from new blends, hundreds of tests are applied as the

chocolates are smelled and tasted by a jury of experts on sensory analysis, and by us, the pastry

chefs. At times, the combinations can be disappointing; at other times they can be wonderful

surprises.

It is a world where preconceived notions and norms are prohibited, and where complexity and

association games are welcomed.

Blending to create more flavor and more diversity: this is the job of a couverturier. A blend can

contain more than ten different origins of distinctive beans, not to complicate the affair but simply

to produce something better!

ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*LIGHT AROMAS

TOASTED AROMAS

SPICED

Sensory profile of ManjariManjari, a dark chocolate that surprises and

distinguishes itself by its light, acidic, and fruity

notes, all very long. The toasted aromas do not

reveal themselves until the end.

* Translator’s note: from French, chocolaté is a term coinedby Valrhona to describe the intensity of the chocolate flavor.

Source: cacaothèque Valrhona

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ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*LIGHT AROMAS

TOASTED AROMAS

SPICED

ACIDIC

BITTER

LONG

CHOCOLATÉ*LIGHT AROMAS

TOASTED AROMAS

SPICED

Sensory profile of GuanajaThe exceptional and moderate bitterness of

Guanaja develops as the chocolate melts in

the mouth. The first notes, light and very

volatile, disappear to leave space for the

toasted aromas. Its length is characterized by

a combined perception of bitterness and

astringency.

Sensory profile of AraguaniAs it slowly melts in the mouth, Araguani

quickly releases all of its acidity, truly

strengthening the first freed aromas. Light

fruity and honeyed notes are perceived,

accompanied by toasted notes. These are

followed by subtle and volatile aromas

of spice. Araguani could be likened to fine

tannic wines for the persistent astringency

in the finish.

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PREPARATION OF THE NORWAY LOBSTER SAUCEAMERICAINE, EMULSIFIED WITH GRAND CRUMANJARI (SEE RECIPE “NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS…”,P. 138). BEGIN BY POURING THE SAUCE AMERICAINEMIXED WITH THE CORAL OVER THE CHOCOLATEUSING A CHINOIS…

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THE RIGHT TOUCH

EMULSION

What is it?An emulsion is based on the principle of mixing together two ingredients that naturally reject

each other.

We could use water and oil as an example.

There are two types of emulsion: aqueous and anhydrous, otherwise known as wet and dry.

In this case, we will observe two principles of emulsion: oil in water, such as mayonnaise, and water

in oil, as for a ganache, for example.

How?For a mayonnaise, we gradually add the oil until we have an emulsified texture, elastic and glistening,

and with the desired flavor.

If after reaching this point we continue to add oil without moderation, we will saturate the mixture

with fat, causing a “phase” separation in the mayonnaise and the emulsion will take on a liquid form,

closer to a vinaigrette.

For a ganache, we gradually add the liquid to the chopped or melted chocolate. We begin, then,

with a “saturation” of fat since all the chocolate is already present. In fact, to obtain a perfect emulsion

we must start with the chopped or melted chocolate and gradually add the liquid product, be it milk,

cream, fruit pulp, etc. The high cocoa butter content of chocolate produces, from the beginning

and without exception, a separation of the mixture; in our jargon we would say it is “curdled”

or “separated”.

…THEN PRESS WITH THE AID OF A WHISK TO OBTAIN THE MOST JUICE, WITH VERY FINE TEXTURE, TO COMBINE BOTH PREPARATIONS…

…FINALLY, WHISK VIGOROUSLY, IN CIRCULAR FASHION, STARTING FROM THE CENTER, UNTIL THE PREPARATION IS COMPLETELY EMULSIFIED. THE RESULTSHOULD BE A HOMOGENOUS, LUSTROUS AND SILKY SAUCE.

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Ultimately, it is logical that with such a high fat content (the chocolate) and little water, the texture

cannot be smooth or particularly elastic.

This aspect, though far from reassuring, is actually completely normal, and under no circumstance

should it be avoided by the untimely addition of liquid, for example, which often occurs. In this case,

the failure would be irreparable, since we would be unable to obtain the emulsion by any means

afterwards.

It is with the introduction of the liquid ingredient that the preparation quickly reaches its point of

“balance”, permitting it to form that elastic and glistening core, the sign that the emulsion is progressing.

In this way, there is no reason for alarm if the texture is “curdled” in the beginning, on the contrary,

it signifies that we are proceeding with the adequate rhythm and that, by applying efficient friction,

we are on our way to having an effective, consolidated emulsion.

For what purpose?It is the principle of the mixture that, by intense friction, it bursts, divides, and organizes the binding

of the fats and liquids, in a fine and regular way.

Precisely due to this division, or disintegration, the emulsion is the action that diminishes, and even

suppresses the sensation of fat in the mouth when tasting the mixture.

For example, compare two preparations like vinaigrette and mayonnaise. The ingredients are very

similar, but for now let us focus on the fact that they share at least two main ingredients: oil and vinegar.

In the case of vinaigrette, the relation between the vinegar, mustard, and oil is proportionately two

parts vinegar to six parts oil. For mayonnaise, the proportions change to fifteen parts oil, more or less.

Still, when we taste a salad with vinaigrette the sensation of fat in the mouth or on the lips is more

pronounced than that of a deviled egg with mayonnaise, for example.

EMULSIFIED AND NON-EMULSIFIED GANACHE,REFERRED TO AS “CURDLED” OR “SEPARATED”

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Mayonnaise, though much higher in fat than vinaigrette, does not seem so in the mouth.

This has a simple explanation.

In the case of our vinaigrette, the oil globules are not emulsified and therefore retain a considerable

size, perceptible in the mouth as a greasy film. Not unpleasant in itself, though it can be in certain

cases.

In the case of mayonnaise, the globules of oil have been “diminished”, or transformed.

In fact, under the effect of a large amount of friction, the principle behind emulsion, the diminished,

divided globules redistributed in the “water” provide a completely different sensation

when they dissolve in the mouth.

Foie gras is an excellent example. No less than 80% fat yet, whether it is raw or cooked, but

not overcooked, there is no perception of the fat whatsoever. It is even unctuous, creamy, and fresh

in the mouth.

On the other hand, if the foie gras, in terrine for example, has been overcooked, its fats separate from

the mixture. Crystallized, the foie becomes “fatty” in the mouth, a phenomenon explained by the fact

that the size of the globules, which have become abnormally large, makes it difficult to dissolve in

the mouth when eaten. In savory cuisine as well as pâtisserie, emulsion is for me the “magic” act

that allows us to incessantly mix different fats together without provoking a heavy sensation

or greasiness in the mouth.

The examples are surprising and numerous, as we will see!

Mayonnaise, beurre blanc, hollandaise sauce, ganache, chocolate mousse, chocolate fondants,

lemon cream or crème brulée… and many others. Countless recipes in which all sorts of fats coincide,

yet they pass unnoticed, or even seem light and supple at times.

Another good example… the chocolate mayonnaise that we serve with cod.

ABOVE, HEAVY CREAM WHIPPED SOFTLY, WITH AN ORGANIZED STRUCTURE DISTINGUISHABLEBY THE FINE ALVEOLI. BELOW, THE APPEARANCE IS ANARCHIC AND HEAVY DUE TO EXCESSIVEWHIPPING.

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WHIPPING

The incorporation of air into a product capable of holding itEgg whites, heavy creams…

In general, whipping tends to be done too quickly. It is important to know that the robustness

of a whipped ingredient—the stability of its volume—depends directly on the way it was whipped.

At high speeds, the whipping will end up anarchic, with air bubbles too large and uneven, and

therefore fragile mixed.

Conversely, the more you slow down the whipping process, retaining all the adequate proportions,

the smaller and more uniformly distributed the bubbles will be, often providing even a larger volume,

but above all a more stable and robust result.

This explains why it is recommended to “whip” at a moderate speed all preparations that call for

the least amount of volume.

For what purpose?To obtain airy, mousse-like textures.

For a supple, soft, and light consistency.

CHOCOLATE TEMPERING

I could give you a very complex explanation of the principle of crystallization in cocoa butter,

but I do not want to run the risk of conveying an undecipherable image of chocolate, because

complexity is not its only characteristic. Without trying to make you experts in cocoa butter

crystallization, the following explanations attempt to make a product as fascinating as chocolate

a little bit more accessible. The crystallization of cocoa butter is in fact rather complex, but it can be

described in a more simple fashion, and that is what I intend to do!

Cocoa butter has a very particular way of crystallizing. It is a lazy fat that, once melted, is incapable

of regaining its original, crystalline form of its own accord.

CRYSTALLIZATION METAPHOR

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It is polymorphouspoly=many and morph=form

This means that as it hardens, it adopts different forms of crystals; four, to be exact.

Only one of these forms is stable and possesses a high fusion point, the Beta form.

Only this form assures the shiny, brittle, and retractable characteristics of chocolate in a mold.

Aside from its polymorphism, it is also monotropicThis means that the crystals only transform in one way: from the lowest fusion point to the highest.

This explains why, during tempering, the crystals with higher fusion points inhibit the preceding

crystals with low points.

It is a series of operations that allow chocolate to be transformed from a liquid form to a stable, solid

form. More often we speak of the “pre-crystallization” stage.

LEFT, PROPERTEMPERING. BELOW, A LUSTROUSCHOCOLATE PLATE.

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ABOVE, RESULT OF DEFECTIVE TEMPERING: BLOOMING OF DARK CHOCOLATE,AND RIGHT, OF WHITE CHOCOLATE

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For what purpose?Tempering allows us to obtain, in a sufficiently quick (but not too quick) way, a “seed” of “stable”

crystals that favor good preservation of the chocolate. Many times it is considered a simple

aesthetic act:

“I temper in order to create a chocolate with brilliance”; which is also true! However, this is not the

primordial reason for tempering.

It consists of constructing an organized architecture of different kinds of cocoa butter crystals,

allowing the chocolate to return to its initial fusion point; in other words, to give back its brittleness,

creaminess, and freshness when melting in your mouth.

Proper tempering also facilitates the removal of chocolate from molds when working with bonbons

or decorative pieces.

In fact, it is precisely this organized architecture of crystals that, by compressing, ease this “removal”

so sought after by professionals.

This is why a molded chocolate without much brilliance, and therefore poorly tempered, cannot be

easily removed from molds, or not at all: a sign of failed tempering.

Tempering also makes the chocolate less vulnerable to humidity and, in the end, gives it the satiny

brilliance that is so appealing to the eye, while at the same time limiting the risk of “blooming”

(whitening) from fats and sugars.

How?The process can be divided into four essential stages:

1) Completely melt the cocoa butter crystals to obtain the most virgin base possible.

The better the chocolate is melted, and the more time devoted to this stage, the more fertile the terrain

will be for a good crystallization of the cocoa butter.

Method: melt the chocolate at a minimum of 45ºC/113ºF for at least 10-12 hours.

2) Allow a certain proportion of stable crystals to form in liquid chocolate.

This is what we frequently refer to as the “seed chocolate”. If this is well done, with good tempering,

it will conserve the crystalline form of the crystals necessary for the hardening of the chocolate

and its sheen.

Method: cool the chocolate until it reaches a precise temperature, which is when the cocoa butter

crystals form, in the necessary way to produce a brittle and lustrous chocolate.

3) Reserve a seed of stable crystallization in liquid chocolate.

This entails controlling the adequate temperatures to conserve a chocolate that is sufficiently fluid

to work with, but sufficiently “crystallized” to preserve the qualities of the tempering.

4) Cool and crystallize the chocolate in a stable crystalline form.

This consists of ensuring good preservation of the product, from the pure to the transformed state.

Tempering renders the chocolate less vulnerable to odors, light and heat.

To make stable butter crystals, the crystalline form we want, unstable crystals must also be made—

that is, crystalline forms we do not want. We therefore have to get rid of these unstable crystals. This

is not too complicated: the more regular and steady the cooling process is, the more stable the crystals

will be as well.

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This explains why marble, thanks to its regular diffusion, is such a perfect tool for tempering.

The importance of constant and effective mixing or stirring is that it results in a finer, more regular

crystallization. A static cooling process can result in anarchic crystallization and provokes a rapid

thickening of the mixture.

Reaching and exceeding 28.5ºC/83.3ºF…

This consists of exceeding the theoretical fusion point of the unstable crystals without damaging

the stable crystals that melt above this mark. These unstable crystals are bothersome because their

action does not benefit our work in any way.

Maintain it at 31/32/33ºC, or 88/89.5/91ºF…

To avoid an increase in unstable crystals and especially to preserve the vital presence of stable crystals.

To summarizeTempering is a crucial process for good chocolate, understanding “good” in the sense of tasting:

brittle, meltable and fresh. It allows us to give the chocolate that lustrous, satin finish. It renders it

less vulnerable to humidity and odors.

The better a chocolate is decrystallized, the more it will recrystallize in an organized fashion.

The more effective and regular the mixing is, the finer and more stable the crystals will be.

The faster the temperature can be raised above 28.5ºC/83.3ºF, to around 31/32ºC/88/89.5ºF,

the quicker the unstable crystals will disappear to leave space for a fluid and crystallized couverture.

TEMPERED COUVERTURE

53

Although it seems archaic, manual tempering over

marble (which cools the chocolate with regularity)

is, in my opinion, the most advisable, even though

there are numerous machines designed to cool the

chocolate in a slow and regular way.

Pour 3/4 of the melted, hot chocolate over the

marble at room temperature. Keep the remaining

1/4 of the chocolate hot, in a bain-marie, for

instance.

Once on the marble, mix the chocolate with

sufficiently wide instruments to avoid mixing too

rapidly (which results in the incorporation of air

bubbles, rapid thickening, and mediocre luster).

With the help of an electronic gauge or precise

thermometer, check the temperature regularly.

When it reaches between 26 and 27ºC, or 78.8 and

80.6ºF for milk chocolate, and between 28 and

29ºC, or 82.4 and 84.2ºF for dark chocolate,

cooling should be immediately stopped.

By pouring in the remaining 1/4 of hot

chocolate, and promptly mixing, the cooling

process is stopped. In this way, we obtain a satiny,

fluid couverture. Adjust the temperature to

28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF for milk chocolate, and

31-32ºC/87.8-89.6ºF for dark chocolate.

KEY ELEMENTS OF SUCCESSFUL TEMPERING

1

2

3

4

54

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TEMPERING DIFFERENT KINDS OF CHOCOLATE

For white chocolateMelt the couverture at 45-48ºC/113-118.4ºF (max) for 10-12 h.

Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.

Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 26-27ºC/78.8-80.6ºF, mixing constantly.

Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that

the resulting temperature is between 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF.

If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave

(on a low power setting).

For milk chocolateMelt the couverture at 45-48ºC/113-118.4ºF (max) for 10-12 h.

Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.

Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 27-28ºC/80.6-82.4ºF, mixing constantly.

Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that

the resulting temperature is between 29-30ºC/84.2-86ºF.

If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave

(on a low power setting).

For dark chocolateMelt the couverture at 50-55ºC/122-131ºF (max) for 10-12 h.

Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.

Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF, mixing constantly.

Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that

the resulting temperature is between 31-32ºC/87.8-89.6ºF.

If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave

(on a low power setting).

HOW TO PRESERVE THE CHOCOLATE

Away from lightThe refraction of light in the crystals can result in abnormal lightening of the chocolate, typically with

white chocolate.

In a dry placeSealed and out of contact with the humidity generally found in a cellar or refrigerator.

The chocolate should be kept in a sealed container due to its fat content, which makes it vulnerable

to odors both good and bad. And like any food, it can also lose its own aromas!

In a cool placeIt is much less sensitive to temperature conditions than one might think.

It tolerates temperatures of 22-25ºC/71.6-77ºF without any problem, but 13-15ºC/55.4-59ºF is

the ideal temperature range for preserving it under optimal conditions.

55

BELOW, FAT BLOOM. RIGHT, SUGAR BLOOM.

TWO TYPES OF BLOOMS

When a chocolate has not been perfectly tempered, it runs the risk of its fats “blooming”. This consists

of a “fatty” film with fine, regular grains that sometimes produces shadows or white lines.

The phenomenon causes the chocolate to be noticeably fatty, with a waxy flavor, and a decidedly

reduced aromatic intensity. The presence of certain elements of fat in fillings such as praline or almond

paste can cause blooms to occur.

If the storage temperature fluctuates, or is excessive, “fat” blooms will appear.

The chocolate will have a matte finish to it, with a fine, grainy appearance, usually regular in structure,

or extremely irregular if it has been subjected to high temperatures. A chocolate bar forgotten in the car

in July is a good example of fat bloom.

Out of curiosity, try this chocolate after it has hardened. It is very interesting. First of all, it becomes

completely deformed, as well as white, streaked, very hard, and waxy to taste.

In this way, we can easily see that the cocoa butter is incapable of recuperating its initial crystalline form

on its own. Therein lie the virtues and importance of proper tempering. When storage conditions are not

adequate, in other words, when there is too much humidity or when it has been left too long in

the refrigerator, blooms appear from the sugar.

It has a coarse appearance, perceptible by touch, and has the particularity, contrary to fat blooms, of not

disappearing when we lightly rub the surface. As the sugar crystals transform, it has a superficial effect

and causes the chocolate to lose its brittle, crunchy character.

Due to its dry nature, chocolate’s main enemy is humidity, to which it is very sensitive. For this reason

it is imperative not to leave unrefined chocolate, or chocolate with fillings, in the refrigerator for long

periods of time to avoid the formation of condensation which is responsible, among other things,

for sugar blooms.

56

TO EACH ITS ROLE

To concretize these culinary ramblings, it is necessary to have at least a minimal knowledge of food

and, in particular, to comprehend the behavior of chocolate in regard to its use in both savory and

sweet cuisine. For this to work it is indispensable to understand and retain the following key points:

The crystallization pointThe crystallization point refers to the temperature at which a liquid fat becomes solid when subjected

to cold. The fat globules change and adopt a crystalline form, whereby they agglomerate and form

whole crystals.

The fusion pointThe fusion point refers to the temperature at which a crystallized fat begins to melt and liquefies

under heat. Certain preparations require crystallization, such as the “foie gras nougat”, contrary to

others, such as mayonnaise or béarnaise sauce, or any sauces or creams for that matter that are

prepared or used above the fusion point so that they retain their elasticity, brilliance and creaminess.

In other words, always above 28ºC/82.4ºF – and between 30/86 and 35ºC/95ºF is preferable

depending on the preparation. EXAMPLES OF AN EMULSIFIED MAYONNAISE ANDONE THAT IS CURDLED (NO EMULSION ORDEFECTIVE EMULSION)

57

When making a mayonnaise, no one would think to use a thermometer to occasionally check

the temperature because it does not seem, and is not, necessary in order to obtain good results.

In this book we created a chocolate oil that we use to prepare the “chocolate mayonnaise”,

which is like normal mayonnaise with one exception: the “oil” needs to be kept at the fusion point,

or almost “hot”.

Like many fats, cocoa butter has its own mechanism that is different from oil and actually closer

to dairy butter. The fusion point of dairy butter is between 29/84.2 and 31ºC/87.3ºF, depending

on the season, but remember that the fusion point of cocoa butter is in the vicinity of 34ºC/93.2ºF.

With the exception of anhydrous butter, all butters lose their emulsion above a certain temperature

and will be, unlike cocoa butter, incapable of recovering their original crystalline or emulsified forms.

The different states of heated butter: from classic butter or decanted butter, on through pomade butter

in which the emulsion is preserved, melted butter whose emulsion is destroyed, and finally normal

or fragmented liquid clarified butter –Valrhona liquid butter–.

Cocoa butter, a capricious fatObtained from the cacao bean, it is a polymorphic fat, which means it crystallizes in different ways.

Like all vegetable products, it is free of cholesterol. It is a material that crystallizes in a very particular

way. The term butter was given to cocoa because of its clear, yellow appearance and fairly hard

texture.

When compared to other fats that we know, cocoa butter has one of the highest fusion points of all.

Its crystallization point is also much lower but it must be carefully monitored due to its complexity.

DAIRY BUTTER IN DIFFERENT FORMS

58

ABOVE, LIQUID, CRYSTALLIZED COCOA BUTTER.

OPPOSITE, LIQUID COCOA BUTTER, JUST ABOVE 34.5ºC/94.1ºF.

59

Although this book is not intended to be a treaty on the crystallization of cocoa butter, I hope

to clarify certain points concerning this transformation just the same. In my opinion these details are

very useful because they carry over into the preparation of certain dishes, in particular the

transparency of crab, a recipe that we designed and adapted this type of preparation for and, unlike

many “whipped ganaches”, retains a lightness and a remarkably silky whipped form.

To properly understand the mechanics of this type of transformation it will be preferable to refer

to “ranges” of crystallization and fusion, rather than “points” since no fat melts or crystallizes at an

exact, precise temperature.

It must then be understood that when we respectively speak of “points” we are referring exclusively

to the moment when the material is either completely hard or completely melted.

A second detail concerns the very nature of the ingredients. In fact, in my profession as a pastry chef

the term ganache is generally used to refer to this kind of emulsion. However, in most of the recipes

in this book the preparation is conducted starting with a sugarless base like chocolate or cocoa paste,

for elaborations of atypical pastry creams such as chocolate béarnaise, or even chocolate mayonnaise!

The appearance of these kinds of ingredients can be perplexing, but rest assured: these preparations

are not more difficult in and of themselves. To succeed, we will simply not approach too closely the

respective points of fusion and crystallization of the raw ingredient. In other words, we must control

the temperature of the mixture.

In fact, if I begin mixing a chocolate mayonnaise or béarnaise, and instead of maintaining the proper

heat for the preparation I mistakenly let it cool too much, I will approach a “critical zone” where the

cocoa butter starts to “recrystallize”. Often, through carelessness at this precise moment, professionals

who have almost succeeded with their mixture see how it begins to “curdle and separate” and end up

with a product that has unattractive textures and even unappetizing appearances! We must therefore

remember the 28ºC/82.4ºF temperature rule: it is at this point that the “mortar” begins to “cement”.

For those familiar with construction, and I know there are many in this profession of “self-made” men

and women who are, the principle is actually comparable to the functions of plaster or mortar.

Both have an ideal moment when they must be worked, after which their properties begin to break

down, it becomes “too late” and the end result is failure.

This is the characteristic of all material whose tendency is to crystallize.

To summarize, remember that cocoa butter melts (fusion) at 34-35ºC/93.2-95ºF, and for us, chefs

and pastry chefs, it crystallizes (crystallization) between 26 and 29ºC, or 78.8 and 84.2ºF, depending

on the chocolate.

SUMMARY

How does technology serve us in this profession? Why are there so many techniques and details? I like

the metaphor my wife Rika used when I posed the question of how to explain this matter: a good

mountaineer always carries a compass, a pilot never takes off without flight plans, and we always set

off with our recipes, but above all our little bag of technological tricks.

Technology should never seem superfluous, encumbering, or worse still, annoying. On the contrary,

in our daily work it is technology that explains our successes and failures, and furnishes us with the

ability to surpass ourselves by the simple comprehension of the mechanics of ingredients.

In my opinion, the talent of a chef or pastry chef invariably passes through this field of knowledge.

Moreover, it is often the case that the true experts in our profession are those whose attention

to technical detail, precision, and above all consistency become an almost maniacal reflex.

Chance, intuition, and improvisation are only valid insomuch as they provide a timely pleasure,

but they cannot substitute for technical foundation, the steadfastness of artisanship.

60

It bothers me to hear that for some professionals the word “artisan” becomes sometimes synonymous

with imperfect work, and that it has come to be used as a justification or an excuse.

I, for one, am convinced that the virtues conveyed by this magical word “art-isan” go much farther

than any simple accomplishment.

It is true that it can seem a little restrictive to limit oneself to identically reproducing the work

of another like a robot, but is it not gratifying in the end to approach this result, this almost

inaccessible joy that transmits to us those things that are “almost perfect”? And I say “almost” because

“perfect” does not seem to exist!

These brief reflections are not an attempt to abridge a philosophical thought, something that I would

be incapable of doing. They are simply an echo of the words of Claude Bourgignon, Pierre Hermé,

and Antoine Dodet, whose perfectionism guided me, and guide me still, in the course of these lines

that I address to you.

All that is left is for me to wish you the pleasure of discovering the surprise, to let your imagination

run wild, there, specifically where technology cannot reach!

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274

THE MENU

A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERY DISH

HORS D’ŒUVRES

COLD APPETIZERS

HOT APPETIZERS

WATER

EARTH

CHEESES

SWEET DELIGHTS

MIGNARDISES

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66

88

110

136

180

230

244

THE MENU

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WHERE THE IDEAS COME FROM…

In the following dishes I’ve used every kind of chocolate product available to me, partly for pleasure

but mostly for the challenge.

Be it dark, bitter or sweet, milk or white, or even giandujas…

I purposely wanted to abstract the ideas and preconceived notions regarding this field, and in

particular sought to transcend the easy image of savory/sweet cuisine.

It was a fortunate starting point because Sébastien and I were surprised to discover such

unanticipated and delicious flavors, like the milk chocolate risotto for example, which, although it is

made with sweetened chocolate, goes far beyond a simple savory/sweet dish.

I have the opportunity to prepare this delicacy during the chocolate thematic dinners, where it has

become almost a fetish and variations are expected, even demanded of me!

I am convinced that for this kind of “culinary escapade” it is necessary to dismiss preconceived

notions and let our desires and imagination have the final say.

A CHOCOLATE

I THINK... CHOCOLATE

FOR EVERY DISH

HOW TO DECIDE ON A DISH

Naturally, we discovered that certain combinations work better than others; some are more complex

and at times the basic idea is difficult to construct, but the pleasure derived is that much more intense.

Whatever it may be, the risk is present and unavoidable, the trickiest part being to create a “balanced

cohabitation”.

What is it that orients us towards this chocolate or that? To say that a dish is made with chocolate,

whether bitter or sweet, provides us with a certain perspective but we must still define the dish’s

identity. Also, it is essential to cite the other main ingredients: the scallops, quenelles, foie gras…

At times it occurred that with just an idea, with my vision alone, I could intuit the chocolate that was

needed for a dish, but to be honest my vision has not always been so clairvoyant and many attempts

were often necessary to discover and decide on the proper balance for a dish.

FLAVOR IN THEORY… AND IN PRACTICE

We tried in vain to discover and organize flavor families. In fact, this was the most exciting part of the

adventure: nothing can be arranged or organized as we might have imagined; everything is a surprise,

which is generally what we expected, but not quite to the extent that we found it to be.

I MIGHT JUST AS WELL SAY…

Iodine and dark chocolate, rich in cocoa, above 60% - acidic but not bitter – happen to go very well

together.

It was pure intuition that made me dare to mix Manjari chocolate with my Norway lobster sauce

américaine. That was 10 years ago already! These little lobsters became the most seductive dish that

I have had the fortune to prepare over the years.

The astringency of fowl liver, like goose or duck foie gras, blends marvelously with bitter, strong

chocolates such as Araguani.

By no means do these combinations constitute a rule; it is all a question of instinct.

An instinct born of multiple experiences, where daring is essential.

I am convinced that the best advice to give you is this:

Allow yourselves to be transported, let yourselves go, imagine, dare to be bold, dare to try the opposite,

the abnormal, the illogical… you will see, the surprise will be that much more gratifying.

65

HORS D’ŒUVRES

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, SMOKED GANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUNG DRÔME GUINEA FOWL IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL AND TAHITIAN VANILLA

APSWEET CHOCOMOLE

THE MUMS SANDWICH GRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE, SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS,HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBIS MAURY WINE GELATIN

68

72

76

80

84

HORS D’ŒUVRES67

TO SURPRISE 10 TR

AVE

LLINGSOULS

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCYWITH WALNUTS, SMOKEDGANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTASavory chocolate bonbons are not a recent

innovation. The first extravagances of this genre

are accredited to the celebrated and famous Jean-

Paul Hévin, a Parisian chocolatier. The taste is an

arguable point, like almost everything.

Personally I adore them, and so the recipe

naturally found its way into this book. Although

smoky notes are not especially appreciated in

reference to the quality of chocolate, after various

tries they proved to be ideal! Hors d’Œuvres with

original combinations, they pair marvelously

with a white port or an easy Voge Saint-Peray

with wood fermentation.

Do not, in an attempt to perfume the pancetta

with chocolate, try to fatten your pigs with cacao

beans as is done in Japan where they feed beer to

their Kobe steers or, better still, matsuzaka; I do

not think it will work…

Moreover, you would have to go to the trouble of

finding a nice, relaxed pig that would let you do

it in the first place, if indeed it exists.

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69

70

Place the thin slices of pancetta in the oven at 130-

150ºC/266-302ºF until they are browned and dry.

Roast all the slices since we will need them later for

the presentation as well.

FOR THE SMOKED GANACHE

1 cup heavy cream • 1oz sliced smoked pancetta • 7oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Additional pancetta slices

1. STEEP THE CRISPY PANCETTA IN THE BOILEDCREAM. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 5 MINUTES, STRAINTHE PREPARATION THROUGH A CHINOIS.

2. BEGIN THE CHOCOLATE EMULSION WITH THEPANCETTA PERFUMED CREAM.

3. AFTER A FEW SECONDS THE MIXTURE WILLSEPARATE.

4. GRADUALLY ADD THE CREAM IN CONSERVATIVEQUANTITIES TO OBTAIN, WITH A MINIMUM AMOUNT OFLIQUID, A VISCOUS, SHINY TEXTURE.

5. ONCE THE MIXTURE IS FINISHED, THE TEXTURESHOULD BE VERY ELASTIC. VERIFY THAT THETEMPERATURE IS 35-40ºC/95-104ºF BEFORE POURINGIT INTO THE FRAME.

6. POUR THE GANACHE INTO A 3/8IN HIGH FRAME ANDLEAVE TO CRYSTALLIZE FOR 36 TO 48 HOURS BEFORECUTTING.

1

2 4

3 5 6

Let cool, then grind in the food processor, then add

the cream. Boil the mixture and pour a third over the

chopped chocolate. Begin the emulsion and continue

mixing until all the liquid is incorporated. Season and

pour into a 3/8in. thick frame. Leave it to crystallize

for 48 hours before cutting with the guitar slicer.

SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS

3.5oz butter • 3.5oz glucose • 2/5 cup mineral water • 0.35oz pectin NH • 1oz powdered walnuts • 0.14oz fine salt • 0.1oz Sarrawak pepper • 3.5oz smoked pancetta, sliced

7. IN A SAUCEPAN, MELT THE BUTTER WITH THEGLUCOSE AND PECTIN AND BRING TO A BOIL.

8. ADD THE WALNUT POWDER, SEASON ANDREFRIGERATE, OR USE IMMEDIATELY.

9. MAKE TEARDROPS WITH THE BACK OF A SPATULAAND BAKE AT LOW TEMPERATURE. STORE IN A DRYPLACE.

Bake and dry the pancetta slices in an oven at

100ºC/212ºF.

Cool and grind in a food processor.

Set aside.

In a saucepan, warm the butter, glucose, and water.

While mixing, add the pectin NH, salt, ground pepper

and powdered walnuts and bring to a boil.

Using the point of a spatula, spread out large teardrops

of the mixture and sprinkle with the smoked pancetta

powder.

Bake at 180ºC/356ºF for approximately 10 to

12 minutes to obtain a nice golden color. Set aside

in a dry place. When refrigerated, this paste can be

stored raw for up to a week with no problem.

Reheat in an oven or microwave to begin working

with it again.

TO SERVEBreak the additional toasted pancetta slices into small pieces.

Place about thirty little pieces onto a tray and distribute the smoked ganache

cubes over them. Position the pancetta transparencies with walnuts on top,

as well as a final piece of toasted pancetta.

It doesn’t get any better than this!

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7 8

9

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RECIPE CALCULATED TO PREPARE 50 BONBONS

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ORIGINAL BONBONS…OF YOUNG DRÔME GUINEA FOWL IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL AND TAHITIAN VANILLAHas anyone thought of combining the

professions of chocolatier and caterer? Well, not

as of yet they haven’t.

Here is a not too original morsel, an idea that

sprang from the imagination of some

chocolatiers who suddenly began

thinking…salty!

As fresh as they are surprising, these bonbons

were inspired by the classic “chaud-froid of

fowl”, taken from the copious buffets of caterers.

74

Place each guinea fowl suprême between two sheets of

plastic wrap. Pound them with a mallet or the bottom

of a saucepan in order to lightly flatten them. Season

and perfume them with the dill, shiso and grated

vanilla. Salt and pepper.

Next, roll them tightly with the wrap so they adopt the

form of a perfect sausage. Close the ends with a string.

SUPRÊMES OF POACHED GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS AND VANILLA

6 suprêmes of guinea fowl • 6 1/3 cups water • 1 grated vanilla bean • Shiso leaves • Dill leaves • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. ONCE ENCLOSED IN PLASTIC WRAP, FLATTEN THE FILETS WITH A SAUCEPAN OR TENDERIZER.

2. SEASON AND PLACE HERBS AND OTHERCONDIMENTS ON TOP OF EACH FILET.

3. ROLL TIGHTLY WITH THE HELP OF THE PLASTICWRAP AND TIE THE ENDS SO THAT THE SAUSAGEREMAINS TAUT.

4. REMOVE THE WRAP AND CUT INTO 2/3IN THICKSLICES. FREEZE FOR A FEW MINUTES SO THAT THECHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID SOLIDIFIES QUICKLY.

5. DIP THE “BONBONS” IN THE WARM CHAUD-FROID,30-35ºC/86-95ºF.

6. HOLDING THEM BY A TOOTHPICK, SUBMERGE THE BONBONS IN THE CHOCOLATE MIXTURE FOR 3-4 SECONDS AND REMOVE.

7. THE CHAUD-FROID SHOULD BE ALMOSTGELATINOUS AND SHOW A UNIFORM DENSITY.

1

2

6

5

3

4

7

Poach the sausages in lightly boiling water

for 8 to 10 minutes.

Drain and cool rapidly in a blast cooler.

Cut into slices about 2/3in thick.

Skewer them in the center and cool them in the freezer

for a few moments.

Dip in the chocolate chaud-froid immediately.

8. FORK DIPPING.

CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID

2 1/2 cups whole milk • 1/4oz pectin X 58 • 1 2/3 tsp fine salt • 6oz Guanaja couverture 70% • Espelette pepper • Shiso leaves •Dill leaves

Dilute the pectin with the salt.

While stirring, add to the hot milk and bring to a boil.

Gradually pour the liquid over the chocolate

to emulsify.

Season with the salt and pepper.

Let cool until the preparation reaches 35-40ºC/

95-104ºF and dip the guinea fowl bonbons

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75

TO SERVEOnce dipped, the bonbons must be kept in the refrigerator.

They can be accompanied by savory cookies or puff pastries, salted shortbreads, or even

homemade potato chips, according to taste.

Another irresistible delight!

immediately, either directly with the skewer

or in a more traditional way, with the classic fork used

by chocolatiers.

Top with a few lines of the chaud-froid to add

an authentic “bonbon” flare, and finish with the herbs.

Warning: this chaud-froid cannot be frozen!

FOR DELICIOUS, SUCCULENT HORS D’ŒUVRES OR

APPETIZERS, TO SERVE 8-10 PEOPLE

APSWEET CHOCOMOLENo, the name is neither Dutch nor Danish: it is

simply the only one I could find on my computer

to refer to these sweet hors d’oeuvres. It is just a

way to conjugate these sweet and sour flavors for

them to share convivial moments. A game that

Sébastien quickly became accustomed to – it is

he who devised these Apsweets – even if at the

time of writing this he still chooses to not

recognize their name.

We wanted to offer an escapade… without

chocolate, and this is it.

A surprising marriage, even provocative, that

opens our eyes and demands our attention.

From notes of honey and pyrazinoics, to fruity

praline, molasses and tomato, and the sourness

and acidity of balsamic, it is almost like snacking

on peanuts: an irresistible temptation.

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78

Cut the square sheets of noodles in fours.

We should end up with squares of 1 1/2 to 2 inches

per side.

Pre-heat the oil to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF and throw

in the flat noodle squares.

Once they have turned a deep golden color,

drain them and place them on absorbent paper.

Keep them in a dry place until assembly.

FOR THE CRISPY SQUARES PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO

1 packet Chinese flat noodles • Clean oil for deep frying 5 1/3oz hazelnut praline 60% • 3.5oz tomato concentrate • 2 or 3 tbsp high quality sweet vinegar, such as Melfort • Salt and red Tabasco sauce • Spring lettuce leaves for decoration

1. FRY THE NOODLE SQUARES IN OIL HEATED TO 170-180ºC/338-356ºF.

2. COOK UNTIL THEY TURN A DEEP GOLDEN COLOR,THEN DRAIN ON ABSORBENT PAPER.

5. YOU SHOULD OBTAIN AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUSEMULSION.

3. BEGIN THE PRALINE EMULSION WITH THE TOMATOCONCENTRATE.

4. SEPARATION WILL OCCUR, AT WHICH TIME ADD THE REST OF THE INGREDIENTS AND MIX WELL.

Put the praline in a small bowl, or in a mixer for larger

quantities. While mixing, gradually add the tomato

concentrate. The texture is oily and separated at first,

but little by little as we incorporate the vinegar it

should become smooth and lustrous.

And so the emulsion is born! Finish by adding enough

vinegar to obtain a sufficiently supple texture to be

1

2

3

4 5

used in a pastry bag, but more importantly so that it is

unctuous enough to simply be appetizing.

Season and keep cold.

Garnish the crispy squares with the cream and insert

a few spring leaves of your choice. Once assembled,

consume these Apsweets within the hour.

AND THE PRALINE CREAM WITH BALSAMIC NOTES

5 1/3oz hazelnut praline, 60% • 1 fl oz hazelnut oil • 1/4 cupgood balsamic vinegar • 2 or 3 tbsp water • Salt and freshlyground pepper • Spring lettuce leaves for decoration

6. WITH A PASTRY BAG, PIPE THE CREAM FILLINGBETWEEN TWO FRIED NOODLE SQUARES.

7. CHINESE NOODLE SQUARES OVER A BASE OFCRUSHED AVOCADO.

Put the praline and hazelnut oil in a small bowl,

or a mixer for larger quantities. While mixing,

gradually add the balsamic vinegar.

The texture is oily and separated at first, but little

by little as we incorporate the vinegar it becomes

smooth and lustrous.

And the emulsion is born! Finish by adding enough

vinegar to obtain a sufficiently supple texture to be

used in a pastry bag, but more importantly so that

it is unctuous enough to simply be appetizing.

Season and keep cold.

Garnish the crispy squares with the cream and insert

a few spring leaves of your choice. Once assembled,

consume these Apsweets within the hour.

CRUSHED AVOCADO ORGUACAMOLE

TOMATO WATER

14oz ripe avocado pulp • 1 lemon • Salt and red Tabasco sauce 23oz very ripe tomatoes • Fleur de sel • Green Tabasco sauce

Roughly crush the avocado with a fork or a potato

masher (as my grandmother would).

Add the lemon juice to preserve color and provide

a bit of freshness.

Season and keep cold until serving time.

Put the washed, halved tomatoes in the freezer

overnight.

In the morning, put the tomatoes in a colander

positioned over a bowl and let them thaw and drain.

The juice will drip by itself without any pressing,

something that would make it cloudy. Season and

refrigerate. Serve in a glass.

A small detail: I fry the tomato skins along with

the noodle squares. They are as amusing and curious

to look at as they are to eat.

TO SERVEI propose two versions.

The tapas version: each person dips the crisps in the guacamole, and life is good!

The garnished plate version: preferable for the dining room.

For this, begin with a generous line of guacamole on the plate.

Insert 3 or 4 stuffed squares into the guacamole and accompany it with a small glass

of chilled tomato water.

Just saying it makes my mouth water…

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7

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FOR A T.V. PARTY OF AT LEAST 8 PEOPLE

…WHO LOVE SANDWICHES!

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THE MUMS* SANDWICHGRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATEMAYONNAISE, SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGEHere is one ingredient that has given us the most

thought.

The reason is that its delicate flavor is easily

canceled by the potent taste of chocolate.

I chose to work from a base of Gravlax salmon,

for reasons purely of personal taste.

Its unique flavor and slightly different texture to

what we are accustomed to are due to the

Scandinavian salting method.

From the moment that Scandinavia entered our

minds, the outline of the dish was already traced.

A dish of Nordic inspiration in which we find

products and flavors typical of the region,

including the chocolate, since Scandinavia ranks

very high in chocolate consumption worldwide.

There you go! Everything is in place for a flashy

t.v. snack.

All that is missing is the tray, but no matter.

I will take advantage of this moment to introduce

a part of the Bau family.

My little brother Alexandre, Bau as well, who

shares his life with his companion Birgitta.

Both are designers, based out of Norway, in Dale

I Sunnfjord.

Currently they are working on rituals of nomadic

tasting, through the production of objects

conceived for that end.

From this Ralston&Bau duo were born “Mums”

and “Mouillette”, among other products,

designed to satisfy those snack-time desires and

to facilitate those moments when we do not

know where to put the little things in our hands

as we sit down to nibble. Problem solved for

television addicts or fans of buffet dinners.

Thank you, my brother, for your talent and for

that of Birgitta, and good luck up there!

* Read: “yum-yum”, but in Swedish.

82

Separate the filets or ask for it to be done when you

purchase the salmon. Conserve the scaled skin and

carefully remove the bones with the help of pincers

designed for this task.

Wash the filet and dry it properly with a cloth.

Mix the sugar and salt together well.

Cover the base of a large plate with half the mix.

Top with a salmon filet, skin down, and cover with

a uniform layer of salt.

Refrigerate for 10 to 12 hours.

Remove the filet from the salt and rinse under running

FIRST, WE MARINATE THE SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED BY GRAVLAX

CONTINUING ON TO THEBAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS

1 red label salmon filet • 2.2lbs Guérande grey salt • 28oz crystallized sugar

Poolish (leavened)8 3/4oz flour, type 45 • 1 cup water • 1/5 tsp baker’s yeast

Dough for cacao nib bread17 1/2oz flour, type 45 • 5 1/3oz poolish • 2 tsp fine salt • 2 tsp baker’s yeast • 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups water • 2 1/3oz veryfinely ground cacao nibs • 3 1/2oz very finely ground cacao nibsfor decoration

1. PLACE THE SALMON FILET OVER A BED OF GREYSALT AND SUGAR.

2. COVER WITH THE SALT AND SUGAR MIXTURE.

3. DISTRIBUTE THE SALT AND SUGAR MIX IN AUNIFORM MANNER TO OBTAIN A THICKNESS OF ABOUT3/4IN AND LET SIT FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 HOURS INTHE REFRIGERATOR.

4. RINSE THE FILETS WITH COLD WATER AND DRYPROPERLY. CONSERVE THEM WRAPPED IN A COTTONCLOTH FOR AROUND 3 DAYS BEFORE CONSUMPTION.

We could very easily buy the bread, but I would like to

take this opportunity to let you discover the exquisite

flavor of bread made with cacao nibs, a relatively

unknown flavor. We gave it a shot, even if baking is

not really our business. The result was worth the

effort. The preparation of good bread begins with the

poolish, a type of natural yeast; suddenly the rhythm

slows down, like a return to a more simple way of life,

if you will.

The same day:

In a basin, get the water to a temperature of 25ºC/

77ºF, dilute the baker’s yeast, then add the flour. Mix

well and cover with plastic wrap, then pierce in several

points to favor the presence of oxygen without drying

the preparation. Leave at room temperature

for 12 hours.

The next day:

In a basin, sift in the 17 1/2 ounces of flour. Dilute the

yeast and the salt in half of the water. Add to the flour

with 5 1/3 ounces of poolish. Knead into dough by

adding water as needed. The dough should be supple

and very elastic. Proceed to the first rising of

approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. Spread the

dough again while kneading constantly, and add in the

very finely ground cacao nibs. Next, form the small

baguettes and begin the second rising after covering

the dough with a cloth to prevent hardening of the

crust. It might be a good idea to spray them with a

little water.

Preheat the oven to 210ºC/410ºF; place a container

filled with hot water inside if the oven does not have

a vapor valve.

After 25 to 30 minutes of rising, spray again with

water and with the help of a fine sieve, sprinkle

with ground nibs.

Make a few incisions in the dough with a moist knife

blade.

Place in the oven, preheated to 210-220ºC/410-428ºF,

and bake for approximately 20 to 25 minutes.

According to bakers, when the bottom of the baguette

“resonnates” when you tap it with your fingertips, it is

a sign of properly baked bread. Make note of this!

1 3

2 4

water for a few minutes. Keep cold for 10 minutes

before repeating the operation.

Properly dry the filet and wrap it in a dry cloth before

returning it to the refrigerator, where it should remain

for at least 3 days.

To serve, cut into fairly thin slices, depending on

personal taste. It should be noted that traditionally

Gravlax is cut by holding the knife vertical to the filet,

and the portions should have a thickness of between

1/2 and 2/3 inch. It is done this way to enhance

the texture and flavor, a remarkable delicacy.

5. BROWN THE SHALLOTS IN BUTTER AND DEGLAZEWITH THE VINEGAR.

6. FINALLY, ADD WATER AND CABBAGE AND REDUCETO A COMPOTE.

CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE…JUST AS I HAD DREAMT OF IT BEFORE

SWEET AND SOUR REDCABBAGE COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS

2 egg yolks (1 2/5oz) • 1 2/5oz whole grain mustard àl’ancienne •1/6oz (5g) Colman’s powdered mustard • 2 2/3 tbspSherry vinegar • 1 1/4-1 1/2 cups KKO oil (see page 284) • 1 level teaspoon of very finely ground cumin • Salt and freshlyground pepper

17 2/3oz red cabbage • 1 3/4oz butter • 2 finely choppedshallots • 1 3/4oz superfine sugar • 3 1/3 tbsp Sherry vinegar •Salt and freshly ground pepper • Coriander seeds

Heat the KKO oil to about 40ºC/104ºF. Whip together

the yolks, whole grain mustard, powdered mustard

and vinegar. Begin the “mayonnaise” by adding the oil

gradually, as is customary.

If we test the temperature with our fingertips

and it feels warm, we are on the right track: it signifies

that we are above the minimum temperature

of 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF, the crystallization point

of cocoa butter. This mayonnaise should be

maintained and consumed at room temperature,

in other words warm. Ok?

When refrigerated, it acquires the texture of a ganache,

but softens again a few minutes after taking it out.

The microwave is therefore a suitable tool for

returning the unctuousness to this sauce.

Finely slice the cabbage using a mandolin. In a wide

saucepan with high edges, lightly brown the shallots

in butter.

Deglaze with the vinegar, pour in the sugar,

and add the cabbage and coriander seeds.

Generously add water and simmer, without covering,

until the cabbage is tender.

Add water again if necessary and reduce in a way so

that the juice becomes syrupy and the cabbage is soft.

Refrigerate.

TO SERVESlice the small baguettes in half lengthwise.

Spread the chocolate mayonnaise and top with salmon

slices.

Finish by adding a little cabbage compote and cover

with the bread.

Accompany with a small dish of cabbage compote

and a beverage of your choice.

A tantalizing evening awaits, whether romantic

or with friends.

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84

FOR 8 GUYS

AND DOLLS

85

CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉEDGOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS,HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE ANDRUBIS MAURY WINE GELATIN In the course of the recipes that follow, you will

notice that certain ingredients have inspired

me almost insistently and I have not resisted

the temptation to prepare them. The “duck”

family has belonged to this category ever since,

on my own, I discovered its surprising

and unexpected complexity of flavor. Custom

practically dictates that we serve sweet, alcoholic

wines with a foie gras.

For this hors d’oeuvre I preferred the tannic,

fruity notes of a Vintage or even a Vendanges.

The Pouderoux winery of Maury excels both in

product and production; acclaimed by Jérémie

Gaïk, a wine expert, it is remarkably authentic.

The pleasant sharpness of the wine works

marvelously with the abundance of flavor and

especially the texture of this dish. This golden

morsel seduces us with its spiced aroma and

apparent fragility, but above all by its crispy

texture which visually noticeable.

The pyrazinoic and generous notes of the sautéed

goose foie gras combined with the delicious,

potent character of the chocolate mousse, here

served hot and light, convert this simple glass

into a most surprising voyage of explosive

contrasts.

86

Reduce the 750ml of wine to 450ml by gently

simmering.

Dilute the agar agar with the sugar and add it to the

simmering wine while mixing to help dilution.

Bring to a boil and season to taste.

Pour into a tray and set aside.

If refrigerated, the gelatin will keep for 2 to 3 days.

BEGIN WITH THE MAURYGELATIN PREPARATION

CONTINUE WITH THE CRISPYMORSELS OF FOIE GRAS

NEXT, THE HOT CHOCOLATEMOUSSE

1 bottle of Maury Vintage, Pouderoux winery • 1/10oz agaragar • 1 7/8oz sugar • Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lobe of goose foie gras • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup fresh whole milk • 5 1/3oz (150g) Araguani couverture72% • 1 3/4oz pasteurized egg whites • Salt and freshly groundpepper

1. IN A DRY, HEATED SAUCEPAN, FRY THE FOIE GRASCUBES.

Let the lobe soften at room temperature

for 30 to 45 minutes before unwrapping it.

In this way it will be easier to de-vein.

After having removed the veins and nerves,

cut it into cubes or pieces of about 3/4in on a side

and freeze them.

When they are well frozen place them in a sealed

container, ready for the mise en place.

Sauté as needed.

Boil the milk and pour gradually over the chocolate to

make an emulsion.

When the emulsion is complete, add the egg whites

and season.

Mix for a few moments and keep in a bain-marie for

immediate use, or in the refrigerator for later use.

1

TO SERVECut the gelatin erratically into shards. Fill the bottom of each glass with 2 soup spoons of gelatin. Place the well

browned, still hot foie gras morsels on top and cover with a Kadaïf disc. At the last moment top it with the very hot

chocolate mousse. Finally, crown everything with a crispy ball of spiced Kadaïf.

And send it off… quickly, please!

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5 7

2. TAKING CARE NOT TO OVER COMPRESS, FORM THEKADAÏF DOUGH BALLS WITH A TEA FILTER

3. BAKE AT LOW HEAT, 150-160ºC/302-320ºF, UNTILLIGHT GOLDEN BROWN.

4. CUT THE MAURY GELATIN INTO SHARDS TO FILL THEBOTTOM OF THE GLASSES.

5. TOP WITH A FEW CUBES OF SAUTÉED FOIE GRAS.

6. FILL THE SIPHON WITH THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSEMIXTURE. INJECT TWO CHARGERS OF WHIPPING GASAND RESERVE IN A BAIN-MARIE THAT IS NOT BOILING.SHAKE THE SIPHON FROM TIME TO TIME DURINGSERVICE TO ENSURE A PERFECT TEXTURE.

7. JUST BEFORE SERVING, TOP THE FOIE GRAS WITHTHE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND PLACE A KADAÏF DISCON TOP. LASTLY, FINISH WITH A CRISPY BALL OFKADAÏF.

AND TO FINISH, THE CRISPYBALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF

7oz Kadaïf dough • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 5 spicemix • 1 lump melted butter

We will use this dough to make the balls, as well

as 10 discs of a diameter adapted to the size of the

glasses to be used.

Moisten the kadaïf dough with a spray-bottle.

Separate out 2.1 ounces of dough and make

10 thin discs of around 2 inches in diameter.

Salt and pepper the dough and add a little melted

butter, along with an adequate amount of spices.

Press a bit of dough between your fingers and fashion

a ball with a small spherical tea filter.

Bake at low heat, between 150-160ºC/302-320ºF,

until light golden brown.

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87

COLD APPETIZERS

QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILK CHOCOLATE, TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS, AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL

NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE AND CARAWAY, SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR BERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISP LACE OF TOASTED BREAD

BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA ANDSANCHO PEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE

SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS,CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET

FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGS WITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKS IN SOY VINAIGRETTE

90

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102

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COLD APPETIZERS89

SOMETHING SIMPLE FOR 8-10 DINNERGUESTS

QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARKAND MILK CHOCOLATE,TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS, AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITHPURPLE BASILYes, we prepare this as if it were a gazpacho, even

though in reality it is not. Gazpacho is actually

made with raw vegetables, but here they are

cooked, and moreover these are not the ones

used for gazpacho. Basically it is a clever mix of

lightly fried vegetables and chocolates in precise

doses, accompanied by fresh herbs with

compelling flavors. It is calculated simplicity,

with a knowing wink to Ferran Adrià, to whom

we owe the celebrated “espumas”, or foams.

An intelligent system that consists of replacing

the classic crème fleurette in the siphons,

used to serve whipped cream, with sweet

or savory preparations of varied flavors,

and extract them in the form of foams with

ethereal textures.

Innovation in the service of creativity - our

sincere thanks go to the Adrià brothers.

The complexity of this dish consisted in, once

again, the search for the appropriate chocolate

to use, or in this case, chocolates.

Confronted with the acidity, even the astringency

of the vegetables, the choice of chocolate was

complicated. To the point where I found myself

forced to moderate some of them with a touch

of milk. It is something rather interesting in the

case of spiced preparations. I realized that

basically it is the same role that coconut milk

plays in Indian cuisine.

“I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with

the best.” -Oscar Wilde.

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Sweat the onions and shallots in olive oil.

Next, add the celery, tomatoes and concentrate.

Cover with the water and simmer, half-covered with

the lid, for 30 to 40 minutes. Blend and strain through

a chinois. This recipe should allow us to obtain 1 to

1 1/4 quarts of juice. Melt the chocolates together.

Begin an emulsion by adding an initial amount of hot

liquid.

FOR THE GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES

1/4 cup olive oil • 4 2/5oz chopped onions • 1 3/4oz chopped shallots • 4 2/5oz celery stalk, roughly diced • 7oz fresh tomato pulp • 1 3/4oz tomato paste • 1L (about 1 quart) water • Red and greenTabasco • 6oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 2 5/6oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • Salt

1. WHEN THE VEGETABLES ARE FINISHED, BLEND THEMFOR A FEW MOMENTS AND STRAIN. WEIGH THE TWOTYPES OF CHOCOLATE.

2. BEGIN THE EMULSION OF THE VEGETABLES WITHTHE CHOCOLATES AND CONTINUE TO MIX AS YOUWOULD WITH A TRADITIONAL EMULSION.

3. BLEND EVERYTHING FOR A FEW SECONDS TO ENSURE A VELVETY TEXTURE ONCE COLD.REFRIGERATE BEFORE SERVING.

1

2 3

Continue to mix, gradually adding more liquid

until you have a uniform, elastic texture.

Adjust the seasoning with the different kinds

of Tabasco and the salt.

Blend for a few moments to achieve maximum

homogeneity and stabilize the preparation.

Refrigerate.

FOR THE VEGETABLE FOAMWITH PURPLE BASIL

1/2qt water • 1 leek (green part only), chopped • 1 3/4ozturnips, roughly diced • 1 3/4oz carrots, roughly diced • 1oz chopped celery stalk • 1 3/4oz fresh tomato pulp • 3 gelatinsheets • 1/2oz finely chopped purple basil • Salt and redTabasco • 2 gas cartridges • 1 siphon

In a pot combine the water and vegetables and simmer

for approximately 45 minutes. Strain through a

chinois and reserve 1/2 quart. Wrap in crushed ice

and rock salt to cool. Add the chopped basil,

macerate, and steep while cold for a minimum

of 2 to 3 hours.

Strain again and reserve a small quantity for dissolving

the previously soaked and drained gelatin sheets.

Mix with the rest of the cold stock and adjust

the seasoning before putting it into the siphon.

Cool the container with crushed ice for at least 1 hour

before syphoning.

The texture should be very foamy, uniform and fairly

resilient.

If it is not, it means that it is not sufficiently cold.

A few hours are ideal to allow the gelatin to act

correctly.

Syphon the foam just before serving.

FOR THE TOASTED BREADSTICKS WITH FRESH HERBS

1 loaf of country bread • 1 3/4oz melted butter • 2 2/5 tbsp oliveoil • Salt and freshly ground pepper • Tarragon, flat parsley andpurple basil leaves

Cut thick slices of bread, approximately 5/8 inch

thick, then cut them lengthwise into bread sticks,

about 5/8 inch wide. Cover them with a mixture

of butter and olive oil. Salt and pepper. Bake at

210-220ºC/410-428ºF until golden. Dip the fresh

herbs in the butter and olive oil mixture and arrange

them evenly on the bread sticks once cooled.

Serve warm.

TO SERVEFill your cups of choice with chocolate gazpacho.

Cover with vegetable foam with basil and accompany

with bread sticks with fresh herbs.

Little more to add since, after all, “more is not always

better”.

And so that it merits the name gazpacho, we consume it

very cold with warm bread sticks.

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THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN CALCULATED TO SERVE 8-10 PEOPLE NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS

WITH CHOCOLATE AND CARAWAY,SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOURBERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISP LACE OF TOASTED BREADI wanted to see this classic of our cuisine done

in a chocolate version.

It was without a doubt one of the most

complicated “pairing sessions”, and one which

required a numerous amount of tests, but now

I am convinced: the resulting combination

is surprising!

In the mouth it is practically a classic, with those

notes of caraway that remind me of Holland,

and that slightly sour mix of gastrique*

of apricots and raisins. The chocolate

is omnipresent, yet yields the starring role

of the dish to the foie gras. Delectable!

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* Translator’s note: Vinegar and sugar reduction that is used for sauces that accompany fruit, as with duck a l’orange…

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Coat the surface of a medium sized plate with grey

salt. Place the whole foie gras lobe on top and cover

again with salt. Refrigerate for 3 hours. Rinse with

water and dry. Take the lobe of foie gras out

of the refrigerator 30 to 40 minutes before preparation

so that it softens a little. This softening will make

de-veining easier.

De-vein it by delicately cutting the lobe at distinct

points. Separate 14oz of foie by choosing the largest

whole pieces, arrange them on a tray, and lightly salt

and pepper.

Refrigerate.

Weigh out 7oz of the remaining foie to mix with

the Araguani ganache. If there is any foie left over,

distribute it between the two quantities you have

separated already.

Boil the milk with the caraway and pepper.

Let it infuse for 3 to 4 minutes and emulsify with

the couverture. Check that a temperature of

35-40ºC/95-104ºF is reached.

Add the 7 ounces of fresh foie gras and blend to obtain

a very fine, lustrous texture. Next, mix in the cold

pieces of foie gras that were refrigerated.

FOR THE MARINATED FOIEGRAS WITH SALT

1 lobe of duck foie gras, approximately 21-24oz • 4 1/3lbs ofGuérande grey salt

FOR THE GANACHE AND ASSEMBLY OF THE NOUGAT

1 5/6 cups milk • 6oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/5oz finely ground black caraway • 1/14oz (2g) very finely ground fresh blackpepper

1. DELICATELY ADD THE VERY COLD PIECES OF FOIEGRAS AND POUR INTO A CONTAINER COATED WITHPLASTIC WRAP. REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT BEFORECUTTING.

2. REMOVE THE BLOCK OF CHOCOLATE FOIE GRASFROM ITS MOLD.

3. CUT INTO SLICES APPROXIMATELY 5/8IN THICKUSING A WARM KNIFE.

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2 3

Lightly mix everything and pour into a 6x10 inch

stainless steel mold with a height of 2 inches,

previously coated with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic

wrap and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours minimum before

serving.

Cut with a warm knife.

4. SAUTÉ THE FRESH APRICOT SLICES IN PLUM SEEDOIL AND HONEY. DEGLAZE WITH A BIT OF SWEETVINEGAR. 5. SAUTÉ THE BABY ZUCCHINI “AL DENTE”.

GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS AND RAISINS

10 1/2oz Bergeron apricots, quartered • 3 1/2oz seedlessMuscat raisins • 2 1/2oz acacia honey • 1 1/3oz choppedshallots • 1oz plum seed oil • 1oz sweet vinegar, Melfort type •2 tbsp orange juice • Salt and freshly ground pepper • A bit of sweet vinegar, Melfort type

FOR THE CRISP LACE OFTOASTED BREAD

1 loaf of dense country bread • Salt and freshly ground pepper •Melted butter

Brown the shallots in the plum seed oil. Once golden,

add the honey and simmer. Deglaze with the orange

juice and vinegar. In a saucepan, lightly fry the

apricots and raisins with the reduction until syrupy.

Deglaze with a bit of sweet vinegar. Salt and pepper.

Keep warm.

Remove the crust of the bread. With a meat slicer,

cut into very fine slices. Place onto a baking sheet,

lightly butter with a spray bottle, and slowly bake

at 120-130ºC/248-266ºF.

Keep in a dry place.

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TO SERVESlice the mosaic of foie gras at the last moment

to prevent it from oxidizing. Arrange the slices

of foie gras and the toasted lace of bread in a staggered

manner. Accompany with the gastrique of apricots

and Muscat raisins. The mosaic of foie should

be consumed very cold and the fruits barely warm.

If, like me, you love sautéed zucchini flowers, do not

hesitate to sauté a few to add to the presentation…

and to your pleasure.

AN EXPERIENCE FOR 8-10 ADVE

NTU

ROUSSOULS

BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI,WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGSWITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHOPEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICEBeing that Japan is my second homeland,

it would be difficult for me not to feel its

influences. It is where westerners with a taste for

raw fish get all their wishes fulfilled. Tuna has

numerous parts that are consumed, and certain

ones come at the price of gold, such as toro,

for example, which is a part of the tuna belly

that is almost marbled.

Luckily, unlike their counterparts at La Boqueria,

the illustrious market on Las Ramblas in

Barcelona, French fishermen have yet to discover

that for connoisseurs this is the most coveted

part of the fish. It is why the price skyrockets at

La Boqueria at the mere mention of this piece.

However, Rika delights in this cultural ignorance

and treats us to this magical flesh at every chance

she gets.

For the dish we are going to prepare, I have not

chosen this part, which is the most fatty, because

the accompaniment I had selected would not

have been suitable; I preferred the akami, which

means “red meat” in Japanese, while the other is

more like ivory or pearl.

The version of tataki that I propose is remarkable

in both its simplicity and its flavor.

Thanks to the dry preparation over a very hot

flame, in other words seared or tataki, the meat is

very perfumed, just slightly firm; tender, rose

colored and juicy inside. We could almost see a

resemblance to seared steak tartar, could we not?

I imagined a cross between beef carpaccio

and maguro sushi (tuna). Here, the beef has

transformed into bluefin tuna. The Parmesan

shavings have become white chocolate with

sancho pepper, delicately perfumed with matcha

tea. The olive oil is now chocolate oil.

The steamed rice is crispy here, fried with

seaweed, the age version, pronounced “agay”.

And to finish, lemon juice has been replaced

by sweet and sour citrus juice.

I think that this explanation will suffice to kindle

the desire to don your aprons.

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Melt the chocolate at a maximum of 45ºC/113ºF.

Add the rest of the ingredients and proceed to

tempering (consult the chapter “Chocolate Techno”

on tempering, page 48).

Once tempered, pour into a plastic container with

a minimum thickness of 3 cm. Refrigerate to

crystallize for 30 minutes and store at kitchen

temperature, 20-22ºC/68-72ºF.

Make the shavings with the tip of a spoon or a pasta

cutter.

Keep the chocolate, which is odor sensitive, in a sealed

container.

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGSWITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHOPEPPER

FOR THE TUNA TATAKI

17 1/2oz Ivoire white chocolate • 3 tsp very finely ground sanchopepper • 1/2oz green matcha tea • 1 1/3 tsp very finely ground salt 2 filets of about 28-32oz • 17oz ice cubes

1. SCRAPE THE SHAVINGS FOR THE WHITE CHOCOLATEWITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO USING A PASTACUTTER.

2. AKAMI MEANS “RED MEAT” IN JAPANESE. THEVERSION OF TATAKI I PROPOSE HERE IS REMARKABLEBOTH IN ITS SIMPLICITY AND ITS FLAVOR.

3. WITH THE TATAKI COOKED DIRECTLY ON THECERAMIC STOVE BURNER (“DRY” AND ON VERY HIGHHEAT, OR RATHER, “A BURST OF HEAT”) THE MEATREMAINS VERY PERFUMED, APPROPRIATELY FIRM BUTTENDER, ROSE COLORED AND JUICY ON THE INSIDE…AND IF THE JAPANESE WERE THE PIONEERS OFGRILLED STEAK TARTAR? THE SAME EFFECT, THE SAME PLEASURE… “ARIGATO GOZAÏMASU”, YES, TRULY, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

4. TO KEEP THE MEAT TENDER AND PINK, SUBMERGETHE FILETS IMMEDIATELY AFTER COOKING IN ICEWATER FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS, AND DRY WITHA CLEAN CLOTH.

5. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! CARAMELIZED ON THE SURFACE AND VERY TENDER, ALMOST RAW ON THE INSIDE.

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Separate the filets yourself or ask them to be separated

at the time of purchase. Wash thoroughly in salted

water for 2 to 3 minutes and rinse. Dry with a cloth.

Now to the cooking!

I discovered a great trick that allowed us to achieve

a spectacular tataki: the ceramic stove top.

No fat is needed for this preparation. It is the reason

for which this ancestral preparation is done over

abundant embers, but it is difficult to achieve

this in our modern kitchens.

Seeing this red burner in front of me, the light bulb

went on. I threw the filets directly on and… magic!

An extremely rapid coloration, just like in Japan!

And they don’t stick – perfect!

Submerge the filets in ice water as quickly as possible

afterwards, and that’s it.

No seasoning necessary for this preparation.

FOR THE FRIED SUSHI

10 1/2oz Japonica round rice • 4 tbsp rice vinegar • Nori seaweed leaves • Clean oil for frying

6. SPECIAL MOLD CALLED OSHIZUSHI: MOISTEN IT WITH COLD WATER BEFORE FILLING IT WITH A LAYEROF RICE.

7. PRESS USING THE LID OF THE OSHIZUSHI ANDREMOVE THE MOLDED RICE.

8. CUT WITH A VERY SHARP, MOIST KNIFE IN SLICES3/4IN THICK. WRAP IN A STRIP OF SEAWEED.

9. HEAT THE OIL TO 175-180ºC/347-356ºF AND LEAVETHE RICE PIECES IN UNTIL GOLDEN.

We could recommend the Japanese system of cooking

here, but there would be too many who would not

have access to the necessary materials. Fortunately,

Frédérick E. Grasser divinely resolved this problem.

In her book, Super cocotte, she offers numerous tricks

for cooking with a pressure cooker. So we will follow

her somewhat outlandish advice from the chapter

Céréales Killers.

In a salad bowl, combine the rice and a cup of water.

With the palm of your hand, delicately press the rice

to clean and “sharpen” it, or rather considerably

reduce its diameter. This happens to be the method

used to prepare sake. Change the water two or

three times, until it becomes clear. Put the rice on the

bottom of the pressure cooker. Place your palm flat

over the rice and cover with water until your thumb is

submerged. Bring to a boil on low heat until the little

EXOTIC CITRUS JUICE

3/5 cup fresh orange juice • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 4 3/4 tbsp sweetMirin sake • The zest and juice of 1 yuzu (in the absence ofyuzu, use a kaffir lime or regular lime)

Combine the orange juice, soy sauce and sweet sake.

Reduce until to a syrupy consistency.

Let cool. Add the zest and juice of one yuzu

or kaffir lime or regular lime.

Stir for a few moments and pass through an etamine

chinois.

Refrigerate.

TO SERVECut the very cold tuna into slices with a maximum

thickness of 5/8 inch. Calculate three slices per person.

On cold plates, place the hot rice pieces, then the tuna

slices on top, and finally add some savory white

chocolate shavings with matcha tea. Finish with a few

drops of KKO oil (see page 284), some blanched borlotti

beans, and a drizzle of citrus juice.

Ready for departure… all aboard.

EXOTIC WORDS

The kaffir lime is a citrus fruit of the Indian Oceanregion, with deliciously perfumed leaves and a delightfully acidic juice.

Mirin is a mild sake, appropriately acidic and sweet. Itgives rice a fine, delicate flavor as well as a refreshingnote that compliments sushi nicely. It is also used inother applications.

Nori refers to deep green seaweed leaves, dried andcrunchy. They serve as the base of many dishes,including the very well-known sushi.

Oshizushi is a rice mold, similar to the molds we usefor butter, that facilitates the traditional preparation ofsushi shaped in bars made of layers of rice, fish in itsbrine, and seaweed.

Sancho is a kind of Japanese pepper, extremely mildwith notes of citronella and Szechuan pepper.

Yuzu is a small citrus fruit that resembles a wrinklelime. Its peel has an entirely unique flavor, but it haspractically no juice whatsoever.

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thing that goes “pshhhhiiiitttttttt” just barely starts

to whistle. Quickly stop the heat, without touching

the thing that goes… Wait exactly 12 minutes before

depressurizing. Open.

Pour the rice into a salad bowl, add the rice vinegar,

and stir it around with a spatula to aerate it. It has

a beautiful appearance, pearly and almost transparent.

When it cools a little, fill moistened wooden molds

with the rice by pressing very gently, and remove from

the molds quickly. Next, cut with a very sharp, moist

knife in slices approximately 3/4 inch thick.

Roll a strip of Nori seaweed around it.

Heat the frying oil to 175-180ºC/347-356ºF.

Drop the rice pieces in and brown.

The frying should take place at the last moment

to achieve a delicious contrast of textures and

temperature.

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THE AWAKENING OF 8-10 SLEEPERS

BY AN UNFORESEEN DISCOVERY

SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB,TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS,CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY WITHCRAB AND CHORIZO FUMETAs I said before, I discovered in my research that

iodized flavors go well with chocolate, especially

with dark chocolate. I admit that the attempts

made with sweeter chocolates were not

conclusive, even though I thought I could

combine them with the bitterness of

the crustaceans. But I didn’t succeed, at least not

for this book! The idea that we were entertaining,

Sébastien and I, was to create a cold appetizer,

which is not easily done with chocolate because

it hardens! However, after many attempts,

we are now proud of the result.

We managed to wake the lazy crab in this dish

of surf and turf.

The cohabitation of the crab and the whipped

ganache with crab and chorizo fumet creates

extraordinary delicacy and complexity.

The combination is further exalted by the sweet

and sour tomato gelatin and crispy fried noodles.

It is divinely refreshing and original.

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Put the washed and halved tomatoes in the freezer

overnight.

In the morning, place them in a colander over a bowl

and let them drain.

The juice will drain by itself, without the need

for pressing the tomatoes, which would make the juice

cloudy.

As soon as possible, set aside the 1 pound of tomato

water needed for the recipe. Heat the juice

to 40-50ºC/104-122ºF, dilute the agar agar using

a whisk, season and bring to a boil.

Let it cool a bit and pour the mixture onto a baking

sheet covered with plastic wrap to a height of 1/12 to

1/8 inch (2 to 3 mm). Sprinkle with a fine julienne

of piquillo peppers and refrigerate until serving.

TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITHPIQUILLO PEPPERS

28oz very ripe tomatoes • 1/7oz agar agar • Fleur de sel •Espelette pepper • Piquillo peppers

1. PREPARE THE TOMATO AGAR AGAR GELATIN. BOILWELL.

2. POUR THE GELATIN TO A THICKNESS OF 1/8IN ONTOA BAKING SHEET AND SPRINKLE WITH THE PIQUILLOPEPPER JULIENNE. LET IT SET AND KEEPREFRIGERATED.

3. DUNGENESS CRAB BEFORE…

4. …AND WHILE BOILING.

5. ONCE THE GANACHE OF CRAB FUMET CRYSTALLIZESAND COOLS, WHIP SLOWLY WITH A WHISK.

6. ONCE A FOAMY, CONSISTENT TEXTURE HAS BEENOBTAINED, MAKE A BALL USING AN ICE CREAM SCOOP.

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In a pot of your choice, place all the ingredients,

add the live crabs and cover with water. Let simmer

while covered for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the crabs

and conserve the stock. Extract the meat from the shell

while being as careful as possible to leave the claws

intact for the aesthetic value of the dish. Reserve

the shell and other parts to add to the cooking stock.

Shred the remaining meat, lightly flavor it and the legs

with lemon juice, and refrigerate.

Slowly boil the stock with the added shell and

remaining parts for 20 minutes and strain it through

a chinois.

The lightly concentrated juice is very perfumed

and slightly unctuous.

At least 5/6 cup is needed for this recipe.

The rest can be used for soup or a sauce by adding

a little cream, to accompany a fish of your choice.

SHREDDED CRAB WITH FUMET

3 dungeness crabs • 1 green leek stalk • 1 chopped onion • 1 cup dry white wine • 2 sprigs of flat parsley • Juice of 1 lemon

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Boil together the fumet and 1/5 cup of heavy cream.

Add the chorizo cut into small cubes, and steep

for 10 minutes, covered.

Strain through a chinois and pour, little by little, over

the chopped chocolate to begin an emulsion. Blend

for a few moments before adding the 1 2/3 cups

of cold cream. Adjust the seasoning and refrigerate

for a minimum of 3 hours, ideally overnight.

Before serving, or at the last moment, whip

the ganache at very moderate speed to obtain

an exceptionally fine, unctuous foam.

WHIPPED GANACHE“CHANTILLY” OF CRAB ANDCHORIZO FUMET

5/6 cup crab fumet • 1/5 cup boiled heavy cream • 3/5oz Spanish chorizo • 7oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 1 2/3 cups cold heavy cream • Salt and Espelette pepper

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9. PLACE ANOTHER SQUARE OF TOMATO GELATIN ON TOP, CROWNED BY A BALL OF CRAB FUMETGANACHE. SEASON WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER FLAKESAND TOP WITH THE CRAB CLAWS.

10. COVER WITH ALFALFA SPROUTS AND SEASON. FOR DECORATION, SIMPLY ADD A BIT OF SEA LETTUCETEMPURA.

TO SERVEFill the bottom of the glasses with the ground, fried

noodles.

Cut about 20 square slices of the tomato gelatin,

2 inches on a side, for a whisky glass.

Place a gelatin square in each glass, topped

by the shredded crab with lemon juice.

Cover with another gelatin square and finish by placing

a ball of crab and chorizo fumet ganache using a warm

ice cream scoop.

Garnish with the claws and some alfalfa sprouts.

Consume very cold. It’s delicious, and it wakes you up!

Heat the oil to 180-185ºC/356-365ºF and submerge

the noodle squares. When they are well browned,

drain and place on absorbent paper. Season and set

aside.

Just before serving, break them into small pieces to fill

the bottom of the glasses.

CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES

1 packet Chinese noodle squares • Paprika and fine salt • Clean oil for frying

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7. JUST BEFORE SERVING, GARNISH THE BOTTOM OF THE GLASSES WITH THE CRISPY, FRIED PAPRIKANOODLES.

8. TOP WITH A SQUARE SLICE OF TOMATO GELATINAND COVER WITH SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB.

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RECIPE FOR A JOURNEY OF 8-10 PEOPLE

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FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE,WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGSWITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKS IN SOY VINAIGRETTEFortunately for us, some dishes seem to spring

from pure pleasure. For me, this is one of those

dishes.

We find in it flavors and textures for which

I have a special affection. Curiously enough,

tofu was one of the things that was difficult for

me to like when I first arrived in Japan. It is not

the flavor that shocked me, so much as

the texture. A quivering gelatinous texture that

we are not accustomed to. I quickly changed

my opinion after tasting Kinu-tofu, which means

“silky tofu”. It has a texture more like a crème

brûlée, a true delicacy.

From this newfound love came the inspiration

for the true/false chocolate tofu.

True in its texture and false in its flavor.

And I adore the smoked haddock for its flavor

as well as its texture.

The baby leeks in vinaigrette, to which the soy

gives a Japanese air, are ideal. The notes of fumet

with fragrances of cardamom combined with

the chocolate and smoky notes of the fish offer

aromas of spiced caramel, almost like mole. If for

nothing else, the trip is worth it just for this! It is

unnerving, our taste buds are overwhelmed, but

the essential is here, and we revel in it.

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Make a good white fish fumet. Boil the fumet and

infuse the saffron and cardamom for about 5 minutes.

Using a whisk, dilute the agar agar and follow

by adding the cream. Bring to a rolling boil but

be careful not to whisk too much to avoid the

formation of air bubbles that will be difficult to get rid

of later. Pour the boiling mixture over the chopped

chocolate so that it just covers it. Blend with a whisk

to emulsify. Gradually add the rest of the liquid while

stirring constantly to maintain a smooth texture.

Strain through a chinois.

Adjust the seasoning and pour into a 1 1/5 inch

high container. Let it cool and crystallize overnight

before use.

At serving time, cut into squares or rectangles,

as desired.

LIKE TOFU… WITH CHOCOLATE THE SPRING LEEKS

1lb fish fumet (See page 284) • 2/3 cup heavy cream • 8 pistilsof saffron from La Mancha • Seeds from 5 cardamom pods • 5 1/3oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/7oz agar • Salt andEspelette pepper 20 baby leeks • 1L water (about 1 quart) • Salt

1. PREPARE AN EMULSION WITH THE FISH FUMET AND CHOCOLATE. ADD THE AGAR AGAR AND BOIL.ADJUST THE SEASONING AND POUR INTO A 1 1/5 INCHHIGH CONTAINER. REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT BEFORESERVING.

2. CUT THE GELATIN INTO IDENTICAL RECTANGLES.

Wash the leeks with water and boil. Short cooking

time is recommended so that the leeks preserve their

original texture. Drain and refrigerate.

Combine all of the ingredients without blending them.

This sauce should remain “disassociated” or, in other

words, not emulsified: as chefs say, “with eyes”.

Refrigerate.

THE SOY VINAIGRETTE

1/5 cup soy sauce •1 1/3 tbsp water • 2/5 cup grapeseed oil • 1 tbsp lemon juice

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TO SERVEIn an appropriate fashion, place the very cold

rectangles of faux tofu on a plate.

Arrange the leeks so that they encircle the tofu and

lightly dress with the vinaigrette.

Finish by simply placing the pleated haddock on top,

very hot… and send it off!

THE PLEATED HADDOCK

17 1/2oz haddock filet • 3 cups fresh whole milk • Red berries • Espelette pepper

3. AFTER SOAKING IN MILK, DRY THE HADDOCK ANDSLICE IT.

4. FORM RECTANGLES BY PLACING THE HADDOCK IN A ZIGZAG FORMATION AND SEASON WITH THE CRUSHED RED BERRIES. STEAM WITH A COUSCOUSIERRE AND SERVE WARM.

Soak the haddock in the milk for a minimum

of 3 to 4 hours. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth.

With a fish knife, cut slices that are not too thin

and place them on sulphurized paper, in a zigzag

formation, forming a pleated rectangle.

Refrigerate this mise en place.

Lightly steam. Before serving, sprinkle with a few red

berries and a pinch of pepper.

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HOT APPETIZERS

ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES,PARMESAN TUILES

DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME, GINGER AND SOY SAUCE

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE, VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE, IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE

MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ,SPRING RAIN CRISP

ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS, CRISPY CHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVES

CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE, BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES,LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS

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HOT APPETIZERS111

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AN UNEXPECTED VOYAGE ORGANIZED FOR 8

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LE

ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO,SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES,PARMESAN TUILESWhen we hear the word risotto, we naturally

think of Italy. And when we smell ribs smoked

with star anise, we are immediately transported

to Chinese open markets. It was in Tokyo that

I discovered the basic idea for this dish, during

a family dinner at Hokkai-en, the famous

Chinese restaurant in Roppongi. It happens to be

the favorite restaurant of my wife Rika’s uncle,

Hiroshi.

The maître d’ of the establishment stands out as

much for his friendliness as for his competence:

I tried to remember all of his suggestions,

without being sure I was properly understanding

everything he said except for “oichi yo!”

When he presented me with the dish and I stared

at the opulent ribs at the base of the plate, they

looked a little greasy. Almost translucent,

they had a lustrous sauce that I admit released

delicious aromas. On the recommendation of the

maître d’ I dove into the experience, overcoming

my initial reticence…

What a surprise! I felt like I was eating foie gras;

it was incredibly refined, with a seductive

texture.

It was all bathed in a decidedly sweet sauce, with

just the right amount of vinegar and starch. But

the most seductive to my pastry chef taste buds

were the sweet flavors of the smoke and anise.

I had a revelation: the idea materialized.

Not the Paris-Brest version, but rather Venice-

Beijing!

In the different promotions that I have had

the opportunity to do in many distinguished

restaurants and hotels, this risotto, effectively

reinterpreted, has often taken the gold.

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FIRST WE PREPARE THE ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK

28oz lean smoked pork ribs • 1 large peeled onion • 6 star anise • 1 clove

1. WET THE RICE SEVERAL TIMES WHILE STIRRINGCONSTANTLY OVER LOW HEAT. AFTER APPROXIMATELY15 MINUTES, THE RICE WILL BE “AL DENTE” AND ITSLUSTER WILL BE AS APPEALING AS IT IS APPETIZING.

2. AT SERVING TIME, ADD THE CHOPPED OR MELTEDCHOCOLATE (IT DOESN’T MATTER WHICH) THE FINELYGRATED PARMESAN, AND ADJUST THE SEASONING.CONTINUE TO STIR DELICATELY TO OBTAIN A SILKYCHOCOLATE MIXTURE.

Prick the onion with the star anise and clove.

Put the rack of pork and studded onion in a pot

and generously cover with water. Simmer gently

for approximately two and a half hours. Cool slightly

and cover the surface of the stock with medical gauze.

Refrigerate for a few hours. Remove the gauze, which

will have trapped the fat, and discard. Cut the rack

into ribs 5/8 inch thick and sauté just before serving

to give them a crispy texture.

BITTER CHOCOLATE CURLSWITH ROASTED PARMESAN

10 1/2oz Xocopili chocolate 72% • 3 1/2oz ParmigianoReggiano •1/3 tsp fleur de sel • 1 tsp finely ground black pepper

Melt the chocolate and lightly roast the Parmesan.

Blend together all of the ingredients to begin

tempering (Consult the section on “tempering”

in the Chocolate Techno chapter, page 48).

When tempering is finished, pour the mixture into

a rectangular plastic container to facilitate curling.

Just before serving, scrape the surface of the tablet

with the back of a spoon or using a pasta cutter,

pressing lightly to create curls rather than shavings

of the chocolate Parmesan.

The chocolate should not be too cold for this procedure.

Sauté the shallots in the hot oil. When they are well

browned, deglaze with the white wine. Add the anise

stars wrapped in a gauze bag, and the veal fond blanc.

Boil softly for about 15 minutes. Upon order, put

the rice in a pot and lightly wet with water while

stirring constantly with a wooden spatula.

Continue with the classic process for preparing

a risotto: gradually add liquid while stirring constantly

to give the rice a perfect luster and texture, so that

it is uniformly cooked.

Before serving, add the chopped chocolate and grated

Parmesan. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Stir well

and serve on hot plates.

CONTINUE WITH THE MILKCHOCOLATE AND ANISERISOTTO

7oz finely chopped shallots • 4 tbsp vegetable oil • 7 star anise• 2 1/8 cups moelleux (semi-sweet) white wine • 1 1/4qt vealfond blanc • 21oz Japonica rice • 2 3/4oz grated ParmigianoReggiano • 7oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • 1 3/4oz Xocopilichocolate 72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

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3. FINISH BY ADDING THE CURLS OF SAVORY CHOCOLATE AND ROASTED PARMESAN.

PARMESAN TUILES

5 1/3oz Parmigiano Reggiano • Freshly ground pepper

Sprinkle the grated Parmesan uniformly onto a sheet

of sulphurized paper. Lightly pepper and bake in a hot

oven, 210-220ºC/410-428ºF, until golden.

Set aside in a dry place until serving.

TO SERVEThe risotto is ready, and cooked “al dente”; avoid the sticky consistency that arises from overcooking. Cut about half

of the rack into small pieces and mix them into the rice. Leave the rest in whole, thin slices. Spoon the rice onto

hot plates, top with the browned meat, and finish with a few Parmesan tuiles and the savory chocolate curls.

For contrast and a poignant visual effect, the client might appreciate the maître d’ grating the chocolate Parmesan

block directly at the table.

Bon voyage!

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LEDUCK PASTILLEWITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME, GINGER AND SOY SAUCEHere we are with the duck family once again.

In the end they will all have their crack at

the pot, if you will permit me the expression,

each with its own meat and unique flavor. This

duck pastille has also evidently been hanging

around Asia… apparently the distance between

Morocco and Hong Kong is not as far as we

thought!

The duck is not actually lacquered, but it almost

seems that way.

It is an unprecedented blend of bitter ganache

and braised duck, accented by the freshness of

the ginger. Textures marked by the wok-fried

bean sprouts, the golden, crispy feuille de brick,

and the sesame whose job it is to unite these two

cuisines. A journey to the souk… in Hong Kong!

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Make cuts in the form of a grid on the skin of the duck

legs. Grill in a hot, dry pan. Remove the fat little

by little as it cooks. When they are well roasted,

remove the legs and fry the shallots with the sesame

oil until well browned. Deglaze with rice wine, or dry

white wine in its absence. Return the legs to the pan

and simmer, turning them occasionally. Add a small

amount of water if necessary. The meat should be

cooked until it can just be pulled off the bone. Let

it cool and carefully remove the skin and bones. Shred

the meat with your fingertips. Add the lightly ground,

toasted sesame seeds. The resulting amount should

weigh about 1 3/4 pounds. Prepare a ganache from

the boiled cream and pour gradually over the chopped

chocolate. Blend the meat and the ganache together,

and adjust the seasoning if necessary with the soy

sauce and pepper. Set aside.

DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATEAND SESAME

THE PASTILLES

4 duck legs • 5/6 cup rice wine or white wine • 3 choppedshallots • 3 tbsp of sesame oil • 1 3/4oz golden toasted sesameseeds • 2/3 cup heavy cream • 5 1/3oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% •Soy sauce • Freshly ground pepper 1 package feuilles de brick • Butter

1. FILL THE FEUILLES DE BRICK WITH THE DUCKMIXTURE, AND FOLD FROM AN ANGLE TO CREATETRIANGLES.

2. FOLD THE TRIANGLE OVER ITSELF TO BEGIN TOCLOSE THE EDGES.

3. FINALLY, FOLD THE LAST TRIANGLE MAKING SURETHE POINT ENTERS BETWEEN THE TWO SHEETS OFTHE FEUILLE DE BRICK.

4. COAT WITH VERY HOT BUTTER.

5. BAKE JUST BEFORE SERVING AT MODERATE HEAT,200-210ºC/392-410ºF.

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Spread and cut the feuilles de brick into strips,

2 1/3-2 3/4 inches wide. Moisten with a spray bottle

to ease the work. Spoon a bit of the filling and wrap

into triangles. See the method shown in photos

1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. With the help of a brush or spray

bottle, coat the triangles with very hot butter

and refrigerate, or freeze for an easy mise en place.

Bake at moderate heat before serving.

GINGER SOY SAUCE

2/5 cup soy sauce • 4 3/4 tbsp water • 1 2/5oz fresh gratedginger • 1/3oz toasted sesame seeds • 2 3/4 tbsp sesame oil

Blend all the ingredients together. Refrigerate until

serving time.

SOYBEAN SPROUTS

8 3/4oz soybean sprouts • 1 1/3 tbsp soy sauce • 2 tbsp sesame oil

In a wok or a very hot steel pan, pour in the oil,

then immediately add the bean sprouts. Stir constantly

and, after one minute, not more, add the soy sauce

to stop the cooking immediately. Remove from

the pan.

TO SERVEAssemble the pastilles in groups of three, on bamboo or wooden skewers.

Place in the oven, preheated to 200-210ºC/392-410ºF, for 6 to 7 minutes. During

this time, garnish the plates with the warm soy bean sprouts.

Dress lightly with the ginger soy sauce.

Remove from the oven and place the golden pastilles on top of the soy bean sprouts.

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A RECIPE TO SURPRISE 8

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DIN

NE

R GUESTS,

EVEN THOSE WITH TRADITIONAL TASTES

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RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAILAND CHOCOLATE, VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE,IN DRÔME PROVENÇALEThis is a dish that incites countless questions

on behalf of the consumer, standing baffled

at the butcher’s counter.

What is it? What a strange shape, what kind

of meat is that? It looks a bit fatty, how do you

cook it? You think it’s the neck of an animal?

No, the bones are solid… You hear it all, and it is

generally quite amusing. Sébastien however,

having experience with the product, had

the desire to prepare it. We discovered the meat

is juicy, “damp”, yes, but without any fat, and

a shredded texture that is very pleasant in the

mouth. “At home we just throw it in pot-au-feu,”

he said. Well, not at mine! It is everything we

needed for this dish, a crossroads between

China, the traboules of Lyon, and Richerences.

The Drôme truffle combined with the chocolate

and this rich, flavorful meat, converts this

delicacy… wait…

I lack the words to describe it, you’ll have

to discover for yourself!

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Put everything together in a pot and simmer for about

two and a half hours. Remove excess fat by spooning

off the foam regularly.

After 2 hours, occasionally check the meat, which

should begin to separate easily from the bones. It may

still need to be cooked longer. When they are very

tender, remove the pieces of meat and drain. Remove

the excess fat one last time from the stock and set it

aside for later. Break the meat up while still warm, and

shred with your fingertips. Set aside.

THE MEAT

3 1/2lbs oxtail • 2L water • 3 bay leaves • Salt and blackpeppercorns

TO SERVEHeat the vegetable stock without letting it boil. Cook the ravioli for 2 to 3 minutes in gently boiling water.

Place 3 raviolis en each preheated bowl.

Cover with stock and grate one or two slices of truffle before serving.

Consume very hot, and enjoy this fine moment!

In a pot, combine the stock, carrots, turnips, celery

and a few thin slices of truffle. Simmer for

approximately 1 hour, uncovered. Adjust the

seasoning. Cool slightly before clarifying.

To clarify: blend the egg whites, tomatoes, and leek

roughly in the food processor. Put the mixture

THE VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE

1 1/5qt cooking stock • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped carrots • 1 3/4oz chopped celery • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 leek (greenpart) finely chopped • 1 Richerenches truffle • 2 tomatoes, not too ripe • 2 egg whites • Salt and freshly ground pepper

in a bowl and carefully pour over the surface of the

stock by submerging the bowl in the stock. Place over

heat and bring to a light boil. Let the mixture cool

again. The decantation will happen by itself. Strain

carefully and refrigerate the stock.

1. MIX THE GANACHE WITH THE SHREDDED OXTAILMEAT.

2. ADJUST THE SEASONING AND LET THE MIXTURECOOL BEFORE MAKING THE RAVIOLI.

3. PLACE A TEASPOON OF OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATEFILLING ON A NOODLE SQUARE. LIGHTLY MOISTEN THE EDGES OF EACH NOODLE SQUARE AND PRESSTOGETHER WHEN FOLDING.

Melt the chocolate. Boil the milk and stock together.

Prepare an emulsion (ganache) with the chocolate.

Set aside.

Stir the shredded oxtail meat into the ganache,

taking care to preserve the shredded texture of the

meat. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Set aside.

AND THE RAVIOLI

28oz shredded oxtail meat • 1/3 cup whole milk • 1/3 cup oxtail stock • 2 2/3oz Araguani couverture 72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 2 packages yellow Chinese noodle paste

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2

Place the noodle squares on the table. Moisten

the edges with a wet brush and cover the center with

the chocolate filling.

Fold the paste in half and press the edges with your

fingertips. Prepare around thirty ravioli in this way.

Refrigerate before cooking.

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THIS RECIPE IS CALCULATED

TO SERVE 8

-10

DIN

NE

RGUESTS

MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICED CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ,SPRING RAIN CRISPWhen I was in the process of my first attempts

at cuisine, excited about preparing Norway

lobster with chocolate, I noticed that iodized

notes produced surprising, extravagant

combinations, yet always remained well

balanced. The iodized flavor of mussels is refined

and delicate. Enlivened by the fumet with

Malaysian accents, it goes marvelously with

the flavor of the cacao bean and the Xocopili

spices, which also come from that country.

The soybean angel hair “popcorn” gives the dish

a crunchy touch. Usually boiled, we had the idea

to fry the soybean vermicelli: another discovery,

because it works, and what’s more, they’re

delicious!

It is a delectable dish that carries us to far

off places without losing our way.

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In a pot, combine the water and all of the ingredients.

Simmer for 30-40 minutes, covered. Strain through

a chinois to recover the perfumed stock.

Rinse and clean the mussels of their “hair”, as I would

say to my mother. In a large pot, combine the wine

and water and add the mussels. Cover and cook over

high heat. After boiling for 4 to 5 minutes, the mussels

will open. Stop the cooking. Once cooled, remove

the mussels from their shells and refrigerate.

Strain the fumet through an etamine chinois

to eliminate any sand. Set aside.

BEGIN WITH THE VEGETABLESTOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK

MEANWHILE, PREPARE THE MUSSELS

2 cups water • 2 2/3oz carrots, roughly diced • 7/8oz choppedonion • 7/8oz red peppers,roughly diced • 3 1/2oz slicedtomatoes • 1/3oz mild Bombay curry • 1/2 tsp salt • 2 lemonleaves, washed • 7/8 cup canned coconut milk

5 1/2lbs large mussels • 2/3 cup semi-sweet white wine • 2/3 cup water

1. PLACE THE MUSSELS IN A SHORT PAN SO THAT THEYOPEN FROM THE STEAM OF THE STOCK. TAKE CARENOT TO COOK THEM SO THEY REMAIN TENDER ANDJUICY.

Reduce the fumet and stock for 10 minutes.

Melt the two chocolates together and add a ladleful

of fumet. Begin the emulsion and finish by gradually

adding the rest of the stock. The sauce should be

velvety and creamy. Keep in a bain-marie. To increase

the creaminess of the sauce simply boil gently.

The result is immediate! Adjust the seasoning,

if necessary, with salt and Tabasco.

SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ

1 1/2 cups mussel fumet • 2 1/10 cups curry sauce • 5 1/3oz Xocopili chocolate 72% • 1oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • Salt and red Tabasco

1

TO SERVEHeat the mussels, preferably with steam, to maintain

the quality of the meat, tender and supple.

Using a ring, place the mussels in a deep, hot dish,

arranging them elegantly as if they were apples on

a nice tart.

Cover generously with the spicy chocolate velouté,

remove the ring and crown with the spring rain crisp.

SPRING RAIN CRISP

1 bag of haru same, also called soybean vermicelli • Clean oilbath for frying • Bombay curry

2. PACKAGE OF HARU SAME, ALSO CALLED SOYVERMICELLI.

3. PREHEAT THE OIL TO 180ºC/356ºF.

4. ADD THE VERMICELLI IN SMALL QUANTITIES AFTERSEPARATING THEM WITH SCISSORS. FRY UNTIL THEYBEGIN TO BROWN.

5. PLACE ON ABSORBENT PAPER AND SPRINKLE WITHCURRY.

6. ASSEMBLE THE MUSSELS WITH A STAINLESS STEELRING.

Preheat the oil to 180ºC/356ºF. Add the noodles

in small quantities after separating them with scissors.

Fry them until they just start to brown. Serve as soon

as possible.

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EVIDENCE FOR A JURY OF 8

-10

GU

EST

SROASTED ESCARGOTSWITH PINE NEEDLES,CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTEDPORCINI MUSHROOMS, CRISPYCHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVESThey are also subject to chocolate. It seemed

impossible, but Sebastian and I absolutely adore

escargots and, after a few attempts, began to see

that we were on the right track. The needles from

the splendid pine that dominates my yard served

as inspiration for this dish. In Japan, these

needles are used as skewers to snack on gingko

nuts, fruit of the most emblematic tree of Japan,

or scallops and other enjoyable tidbits. When

cooked, these needles transmit their resinous,

camphorated, turpentine flavor, something that

I adore. And so, like great chefs on a quest for

exotic herbs, we set off in search of pine needles,

the younger the better as these have a more

intense flavor. Struck by the memory of Régis

Marcon, Sébastien thought of the fresh little

mushrooms that we had haphazardly bought

in the market. Everything started to come

together, in the exchange of a few words, in true

chef’s style, and the experiments began.

The result is how we imagined it: you be the

judge.

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Boil the milk and cream together and add the ground

porcinis. Cover and leave for a few minutes. Prepare

an emulsion with the chopped couverture and

the very hot liquid. Adjust the seasoning, blend for

a few moments and refrigerate for the mise en place,

or place in a bain-marie for service.

FOR THE PORCINI CHOCOLATESAUCE

AND THE SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES

3/5 cup whole milk • 3/5 cup heavy cream • 8 3/4oz Caraïbechocolate 66% • 1 1/4oz dried, ground porcinis • Salt andfreshly ground pepper 3 1/2oz sugar • 3 1/2oz glucose • 3/10 cup water • 1 3/5oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Fleur de sel

1. FOR THE PORCINI SAUCE, FINELY GRIND THE DRIEDPORCINIS AND BLEND WITH THE HEAVY CREAM.FOLLOW BY PREPARING A CLASSIC EMULSION BY GRADUALLY POURING THE VERY HOT LIQUID OVERTHE CHOCOLATE.

2. PORCINI GANACHE.

3. COOK THE SUGAR DRY UNTIL GOLDEN.

4. ADD THE MELTED HOT CHOCOLATE AND STIRBRIEFLY.

5. USING A ROLLING PIN SPREAD THE MIXTURE AS THINLY AS POSSIBLE BETWEEN TWO SILPATSHEETS. RESERVE LIKE THIS IN A DRY PLACE.

6. BEFORE SERVING, PLACE ON A BAKING SHEET,LIGHTLY SPRINKLE WITH FLEUR DE SEL AND HEAT IN A HOT OVEN OR UNDER THE SALAMANDER FOR A FEW SECONDS SO THAT THE CARAMEL SPREADS OUT A LITTLE.LET COOL AND KEEP IN A DRY PLACE.

Cook the sugar, glucose and water at 158ºC/316ºF.

Remove from heat and add the finely chopped

or melted chocolate. Smooth it out with a spatula.

Spread it as thinly as possible between two Silpat

sheets. Leave to cool and reserve the preparation

in a dry place with a dessicant. Before serving, sprinkle

with fleur de sel and reheat in the oven or under

a salamander for a few minutes to give it a beautiful,

lustrous chocolate color. Set aside.

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TO SERVEOn a preferably long, hot plate, elegantly arrange

the small porcinis and sautéed escargots. Top each

escargot with a touch of the porcini chocolate sauce.

Finish by adding a few shards of chocolate caramel.

You will notice the pleasant aroma, and the odor

of the pinesap with its camphoric notes combined

with the chocolate is truly something.

7. SAUTÉ THE PORCINIS IN BUTTER. WHEN THEY STARTTO BROWN ADD THE PINE NEEDLE SKEWEREDESCARGOTS. COOK EVERYTHING FOR 5 MINUTES AND ADJUST THE SEASONING.

FOR THE SAUTÉED PORCINIS AND GRAZAC ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES

15 small porcinis • 30 large escargots, canned • Clarified butter • 50 pine needles • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Wash and rinse the escargots. Skewer each escargot

with a pine needle. Wash and carefully brush the small

porcinis. Cut them in half and sauté them over high

heat. When they begin to brown, add the pine-

skewered escargots. Brown together for approximately

5 minutes and adjust the seasoning.

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FOR 8

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CR

AYF

ISHENTHUSIASTS OR ADMIRERS

CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISHNANTUA SAUCE, BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES,LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILSCrayfish are a part of my childhood.

My dad and I would go fishing for pike

at a lake near Metz. Sometimes, understanding

the animal’s instinct, dad would tell me to stay

up on the shore while he attempted to seduce

the pike with his little sun perch. This little

fellow was, it seemed, the preferred prey

of Mr. Pike. And there I was, alone on the shore

with nothing to do but stay quiet, so I occupied

myself with the crayfish even though I had

nothing to catch them with!

There are many of us who were raised on Nantua

sauce, it being the sauce that often accompanied

our mothers’ quenelles. During a nostalgic

moment, I had a sudden inspiration and, using

an idea of Sébastien’s, I concocted this version…

sorry for changing the recipe mom!

Having now done my research on this little

critter that I once took for a bonsai lobster

that never made it to the sea, I will share with

you the fruit of my labor. First cited in

the 1st century in Apicius’ “De re coquinaria”,

the pike quenelle with Nantua sauce was highly

regarded by King Louis XV during extravagant

dinners in the royal châteaux.

It seems it is the destiny of the crayfish to remain

wild, as these animals cannot be farmed.

The Astacus leptodactilus originates from

the Vendée, Camargue or Touraine regions,

whereas Astacus pacifastacus is found in the north

and the east of France.

Unscrupulous sellers began calling it “red clawed

crayfish”, when in fact the true “red clawed”

Astacus astacus became non-existent. In New

Caledonia or Louisiana these creatures receive

colorful names like Waoussous or Zabittants.

With the close of this short history, let us return

to this recipe which had great success at the Lyon

show in 2005, and I would like to thank Cèlia

and Francisco for their patience in allowing

me time to finish this “extra” recipe for inclusion

in Chocolate Fusion.

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First, we must take care to de-vein the crayfish.

It is an unattractive detail, but nonetheless a duty

of “culinary hygiene” which we cannot avoid,

and furthermore one which cannot and should not

be done except with live animals. Afterwards, throw

the critters in a base of gently boiling water at

the bottom of a pot. As soon as the shells turn red

remove the crayfish with a skimmer and let cool.

Carefully remove the barely cooked tails from the shell

and refrigerate until serving time. Cut the heads

in two, lengthwise. Place all the shells, claws and half-

heads in a large pot. Add the carrots, leeks, tomatoes,

garlic cloves, onion and flat parsley. Pour in the white

wine and cover with water. Cover and simmer

for 30 to 40 minutes. Before straining through

a chinois, stir for a few moments to break the shells

in order to obtain the maximum juice possible. Strain

through a chinois, then a cheesecloth. Let cool

and refrigerate until assembly.

FOR THE CRAYFISH FUMET

40 to 45 live crayfish • 3 carrots, roughly diced • 1 large leek, roughly diced • 3 tomatoes • 3 garlic cloves • 1 large chopped onion • 750ml (1 bottle) white wine • 1/2 handful of flat parsley

1. CRAYFISH.

2. THE CRAYFISH FUMET SHOULD ONLY GENTLY BOIL.

FOR THE FOAMY NANTUASAUCE

1 cup whipping cream 35% • 3 1/2oz Jivara milk chocolate 40%• 2 cups crayfish fumet • 1/5 cup cognac • Espelette pepper •Salt

Boil the cream and melt the milk chocolate. Pour half

the cream over the chocolate and whisk to begin the

emulsion. Add the rest of the cream and, gradually,

pour in the crayfish fumet. Lastly, add the cognac and

adjust the seasoning. Bring to a very light boil to give

the sauce a velvety, silky appearance.

Keep in a bain-marie so it is hot at serving time.

THE PIKE QUENELLES

8 3/4oz pike meat • 2 5/6oz fresh egg whites • 1/2 cup whippingcream 35% • 1 3/4oz pasteurized butter • 2 1/10oz type 55flour • 2 fresh egg yolks • Salt and freshly ground pepper

To make the panade, boil the cream and butter.

Add the sifted flour and dry over heat for 2 to

3 minutes while stirring (like a pâte à choux).

Let slightly cool and add the yolks, one by one, away

from heat. Let cool completely. Meanwhile, shred

the pike meat and add the egg whites. Next, add both

the cold panade and the cream. Adjust the seasoning

and refrigerate. Shape the quenelles between two

spoons and poach them in lightly boiling, salted water

for around 10 minutes. Refrigerate or use immediately.

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1

BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES

10 to 12 pike quenelles • Oil bath or liquid butter for frying

3. POACH THE QUENELLE PIECES.

4. DRAIN THEM ONCE REMOVED FROM THE WATER.

5. LASTLY, DEEP-FRY THE QUENELLES.6. JUST BEFORE SERVING, SEAR THE CRAYFISH TAILSIN BUTTER AND OLIVE OIL.

Cut the quenelles into pieces of about 1 1/2 inches.

Poach for 4 to 5 minutes in gently boiling, salted water

and drain. This step can be done before serving,

for the mise en place. Just before serving, fry in oil

or liquid butter heated to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF until

golden brown and sufficiently crispy.

GREEN RISOTTO

3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 cup semi-sweetwhite wine • 2 1/2 cups crayfish fumet • 10 1/2oz Japonica rice • 2 7/8oz Parmigiano Reggiano, grated • 1 bunch flat parsley • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Sauté the shallots in the hot oil until well browned,

then deglaze with the white wine and add the crayfish

fumet.

Boil gently for approximately 15 minutes. Wash

and spin-dry the parsley, then separate the leaves.

Finely grind to reduce to a puree. Using an etamine

chinois, squeeze out the juice. When the order comes

in, put the rice in a pot and add a bit of water while

stirring with a wooden spatula, then follow the classic

process for risotto: gradually add liquid while

continuously stirring to obtain a perfect texture

and luster, as well as a uniform doneness of the rice.

Just before serving, add the grated Parmesan. Adjust

the seasoning if necessary. Stir well one last time for

a perfect luster. To preserve a pleasant green color,

finish with 2 to 3 soupspoons of flat parsley juice.

Using a stainless steel ring, form the risotto into round

medallions onto hot plates.

TO SERVEAt serving time, deep-fry the pieces of poached

quenelle and sear the crayfish tails in butter

and olive oil. Season with salt and Espelette pepper.

On sufficiently concave, hot plates make three

medallions of risotto using the stainless steel rings

of your preferred size. Place one beignet of pike

quenelles on each plate and top with a crayfish tail

and a few flat parsley leaves. Blend the sauce for

a few moments to “velvetize” and generously adorn

the bottom of each plate. Serve hot. Do not hesitate

to be generous in adding more sauce, that’s how

it’s done!

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WATER

LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE, POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS

SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS, SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES

A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, TOASTED PINE NUTS, PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH LEMON AND VERBENA, BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH

GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHA SAFFRON FRAGRANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE

STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE, LAÏ CHU REDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN PEPPER

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATE POLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE, FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED CHOCOLATE FLAKES

SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAO AND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS

PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC, COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME, FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK

IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS

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WATER137

THIS RECIPE IS CALCULATED TO SURPRISE 8-10 DINNERGUESTS WITH A THIRST FOR DISCOVERY LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY

LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE,POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKSWas it these Norway lobsters that awoke

in me the desire to explore and discover? Most

certainly. I adore the sauce américaine, its richness

and the intoxicating smells that it exudes. I had

never tried to make it up until then, and I had an

incredible urge to dive into the adventure.

I consulted a few cookbooks, the Larousse

gastronomique, Auguste Escoffier, to get an

understanding of the basic principles.

Coincidentally, I had the good fortune to dine at

the restaurant Pic, in Valence. It was dream come

true for me. At that time Jacques and Alain Pic

were still at the helm of the three star Michelin

establishment. I followed the precious advice

of Jacques Pic that I had so furtively sought after

in his ritual visit to the dining room. “I roasted

the shells well in the oven and flambéed them

with cognac and whisky”, he explained. “With

both?” I asked. It was something very unusual

in pâtisserie. “Don’t forget the pistils of saffron,

of course. I’ll give you the details for the

reduction and skimming, etc.” Then I can

remember him confiding in me one of

the secrets, almost whispering as he leaned

in to tell me, “the thickening takes place during

the final moments, with the coral from the fresh

lobsters that has been previously removed.”

Mission accomplished… I had the overwhelming

feeling I was guarding a “secret” in my mind.

I left the family restaurant happy and confident

in my idea. In this recipe, we reencounter notes

of licorice, born of the union of the iodine,

saffron and chocolate. The silky texture of the

red pepper confit softens and underlines this

flavor that I dare to qualify as exceptionally good

and harmonious.

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Remove the head and legs of the Norway lobsters.

Remove 20 tails from their shells 10 of the nicest tails

whole with the shells on. Using a small coffee spoon,

extract the coral from the heads and refrigerate in a

sealed container or, even better, in the freezer.

On an oiled baking sheet, place the heads, legs and

shells and bake at high heat in the oven, 220-

230ºC/428-446ºF, for no more than 8-10 minutes.

Stir from time to time to ensure it is all roasted in a

light and uniform way. Remove them from the oven,

pour the cognac and whisky over them and flambé.

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER

30 Norway lobsters (15/20) • 2/5 cup cognac • 2/5 cup whisky • 1 head of garlic, halved horizontally • 1 chopped onion • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 14oz fresh tomato pulp • 3 tbsp tomato paste • 7oz roughly diced carrots • 2 leeks (green part only) • 20 pistils of La Mancha saffron • 1 1/4 cup dry white wine • Salt and whole peppercorns • Virgin olive oil

2. PREPARE THE SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH THENORWAY LOBSTER SHELLS, REMOVE THE CORAL FIRSTAND REFRIGERATE.

1. NARCISSISTIC NORWAY LOBSTER ADMIRING HISREFLECTION IN A KNIFE BEFORE PLUNGING INTO THEPOT.

3. STRAIN THE REDUCED SAUCE THROUGH A CHINOIS,ADD THE CORAL AND STIR FOR A FEW MOMENTS.BRING TO A GENTLE BOIL.

4. STRAIN AGAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS WHILE STIRRINGTHE SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OVER THE CHOCOLATE.

1 2

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITHGRAND CRU CHOCOLATE AND CORAL

2 1/8 cups sauce américaine, reduced • Norway lobster coral •5 1/3 to 6 1/3oz Manjari chocolate 64% - Salt and pepper

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4

Let cool and grind in a food processor or with a mortar

and pestle. In a large pot, sauté the shallots, onions

and garlic. Add the Norway lobster shells. Mix in the

tomato pulp, tomato paste, carrots, leeks and finally

the saffron and white wine, and a few black

peppercorns. Cover with water and cook gently.

The cooking should take 3 to 4 hours. Take care

to skim if necessary and to keep it to a simmer. Strain

through a chinois and reduce the sauce to about a half.

Test frequently during reduction to avoid a bitter,

unpleasant sauce. Cool immediately and refrigerate.

5. CONTINUE TO STIR AND PRESS WITH THE HELP OF A WHISK. THE SAUCE SHOULD BE PERFECTLYEMULSIFIED.

6. CORRECTLY EMULSIFY THE SAUCE AND BLENDAGAIN FOR A FEW SECONDS FOR A PREFECT SILKYTEXTURE.

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Combine the sauce américaine and the coral and blend.

Heat it until it just begins to boil and remove

it immediately from heat.

Lightly melt the chocolate in a saucepan. Add just

a little sauce américaine and begin then emulsion by

stirring efficiently. Gradually add the rest of the sauce,

straining it through a chinois over the chocolate.

The texture should end up being velvety, supple

and lustrous.

Adjust the seasoning and run through the mixer

for a few seconds to perfect the silky texture

of the sauce. If necessary, gently reheat the sauce,

without boiling, to thicken.

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5

7. CHAR THE RED PEPPERS IN A VERY HOT OVEN.AFTER REMOVING THEM FROM THE OVEN, WRAPSEPARATELY IN PLASTIC WRAP AND LET COOL.FINALLY, REMOVE THE SKINS AND SEEDS AND SAUTÉIN OLIVE OIL WITH A DASH OF SUGAR. ONCE THE JUICEHAS PRACTICALLY DISAPPEARED AND THE PEPPERSLOOK CONFITS, REMOVE FROM HEAT, BLEND FINELYAND SEASON.

Wash and roast the peppers whole in a very hot oven

(230-240ºC/446-464ºF) with the skin. It is the system

used for escalivada in Spain. When the skin begins

turn dark brown, stop the roasting. After removing

them from the oven, wrap each pepper separately

in plastic wrap and let cool. Thanks to the wrap

the peppers can be peeled and seeded more easily.

Cut them in strips and throw them in a pan with hot

oil. Add a dash of sugar and let them brown gently

so that the peppers “confit” and lose their water. Drain

and place in the food processor. Add the paprika, salt

and pepper. Finely blend and strain through a sieve

to obtain a very fine texture. Adjust the seasoning

and refrigerate, or keep in a bain-marie for

consumption within two hours.

RED PEPPER TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA

4 1/3lbs red peppers • 6/7 cup virgin olive oil • 1/2oz sweet paprika • Sugar • Salt and freshly ground pepper

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POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON

5 1/3oz precooked polenta • 6/7 cup whole milk • 1 cup water • 10-12 pistils of La Mancha saffron • Salt and freshly ground pepper

8. PREPARE THE POLENTA WITH SAFFRON FROM LA MANCHA. SPREAD OUT TO A THICKNESS OFAPPROXIMATELY 5/8 INCH AND LET IT SET. CUT THEFINGERS TO 5/8 INCH THICK AND AROUND 4 INCHESLONG. LIGHTLY BROWN IN OIL BEFORE SERVING.

9. FRY THE LEEK JULIENNE IN AN OIL BATH THAT ISNOT TOO HOT (160-170ºC/320-338ºF).

Boil the milk and water, add the saffron and steep,

covered, for 4 to 5 minutes.

Mix the polenta with a whisk, then cook over low heat

while stirring with a spatula. Add salt and pepper

and pour into a tray 5/8 inch deep. Cover with plastic

wrap and refrigerate for one hour before cutting.

Once the fingers are cut, delicately sauté them in olive

oil on two sides only and keep warm until serving

time.

CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE

3 leeks (white part only) • Clean oil bath • Freshly ground salt

Wash the leeks and cut the white part into pieces

2 to 2 3/8 inches long.

Cut in half lengthwise.

Prepare a fine julienne.

Fry in the oil bath at a maximum of 170ºC/338ºF

and, when golden, drain on absorbent paper. Lightly

salt and keep in a dry place. 8

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10. REMOVE THE INTESTINE OF EACH TAIL WITH A TOOTHPICK AND CUT THE TOP OF THE SHELLUSING SCISSORS. OPEN WITH YOUR FINGERTIPS AND REMOVE THE MEAT FROM THE SHELL. SET ASIDETHE MEAT, STILL ATTACHED TO THE TAIL FIN, PLACINGIT IN THE SHELL THAT SHOULD CLOSE BY ITSELF AFTERREMOVAL.

11. SEASON, DRESS WITH A BIT OF OIL ANDREFRIGERATE, TO BE COOKED JUST BEFORE SERVINGTIME, OF COURSE!

TO REMOVE THE TAIL SHELLS AS I LEARNED IN ICELAND…

It is not mandatory to remove the heads, the effect

is more appetizing, but for this dish we will need them

for the sauce so it is in fact necessary. Remove 10 tails

in the following way: hold the tail face up with one

hand, and with the other, cut the shell with scissors

from the head to the end of the tail, but keeping

the tail fan intact. It is important to remain as close

to the shell as possible to avoid cutting the meat.

TO SERVEMake sure that the polenta fingers, the red pepper

tapenade and the sauce américaine are all hot.

If you choose to cook the Norway lobsters over a

pierrade (grilling over hot stones), place the hot stones,

of a size of your choice, over a hot flame. On one hand,

lightly sauté the 20 Norway lobsters without the shells,

taking care not to overcook them, and on the other hand,

sear the 10 tails still in their shell; these will be finished

over the stones. Season and set aside.

Next, set a red hot stone on each plate and top with

a de-shelled (Icelandic method) Norway lobster.

Dress with a generous ribbon of the pepper tapenade

and arrange the polenta fingers. In a harmonious way,

place two Norway lobster tails, generously cover

with the chocolate sauce américaine and crown

with a few crispy leeks. Just writing this makes

my mouth water. Now it’s your turn!

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Then, with your fingertips, open the tail, carefully

remove the meat and return it to the shell. In this way,

even barely dressed with oil and seasoning the meat

will take on all the aromas of the roasted shell.

It is delicious. I discovered this method in Iceland

where they use it for their small lobsters. The flavor

of their preparation was remarkable, and so I pass

on the idea to you.

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FOR 8-10 DEVO

TEESOF DELECTABLE DELIGHTS

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SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPSSKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS,SWEET AND SOUR MANGOJULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMEDCHOCOLATE SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES We should not confuse these small mollusks

with baby sea scallops, which is often the case.

Their characteristic flavor and more fleshy meat

make these bay scallops an attractive ingredient

to work with in the kitchen. Their small size

along with the fact they are usually presented

in a “collective” manner, gives one a sensation

of generosity not unlike opening up a bag

of bonbons.

This is actually the first savory recipe to be

published by Valrhona through the École du

Grand Chocolat. Perhaps it was a sign, an omen

of what was to come, because a few months

later, with Montagud, I decided to prepare

this book.

This very fruity and sweet and sour version,

with aromas of toasted nuts combined with

the Manjari chocolate, which plays a central

role here, supported by the lemongrass

and fresh mango, makes this dish a pure

delight.

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Caramelize the sugar dry (180-185ºC/356-365ºF)

and deglaze with the shallots and butter.

Sauté everything together for a few moments,

add the orange juice and the fond blanc, and reduce

by a third.

In a mixing bowl, or a Blixer food processor, combine

the praline and chocolate.

Gradually add the reduction to correctly prepare

an emulsion.

Adjust the seasoning and keep warm before serving.

FOR THE CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE

3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 cup fresh orange juice • 7oz veal fond blanc • 3 1/2oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 13/4oz praline, 50%nuts • 1 3/4oz sugar • 1oz butter • Salt

BAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMONGRASS

23oz fresh bay scallops • 4 lemongrass stalks • Clarified butter

1. MAKE AN EMULSION WITH THE CARAMEL AND ORANGE REDUCTION BY POURING IT OVER THECHOCOLATE AND PRALINE.

2. ADD THE LIQUID GRADUALLY TO ACHIEVE ANDPRESERVE A UNIFORM TEXTURE THAT IS SMOOTH AND SUPPLE.

3. BAY SCALLOP BROCHETTES WITH LEMONGRASS,BROWNED IN A SAUCEPAN.

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Wash and dry the meat of the bay scallops.

Prepare the small lemongrass skewers.

Place 3 or 4 bay scallops onto each skewer;

make around thirty in total. Refrigerate until serving,

when they will be sautéed in butter over high heat.

4. COOK THE HONEY UNTIL IT LIGHTLY BROWNS.

5. ADD THE MANGO JULIENNE, THE LEMONGRASS AND THE VINEGAR. SIMMER AND REDUCE.

6. USING A PASTRY BAG, OUTLINE SQUARES 3 TO 3 1/2 IN A SIDE.

7. SPRINKLE WITH CACAO NIBS.

8. REMOVE THE EXCESS NIBS BY TURNING OVER THE SILICON SHEET.

SWEET AND SOUR MANGOJULIENNE

2lbs fresh mangos • 4/5 cup polyfloral honey • 1 3/4oz lemongrassstalks • 1oz fresh ginger • 2 tbsp sweet vinegar • Fine salt andcubeb pepper

SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES

3 1/2oz butter • 3 1/2oz glucose • 2/5 cup mineral water • 1/3oz pectin NH • 1oz powdered hazelnuts • 2/3 tsp fine salt • 1 2/3 tsp cubeb pepper •7oz cacao nibs

Wash and peel the fruit.

Julienne the mangos and ginger.

Lightly brown the honey and add the mango and

ginger julienne, the vinegar and the lemongrass stalks.

Simmer over low heat and reduce until syrupy. Adjust

the seasoning, remove the lemongrass and refrigerate.

In a pot, heat the butter, glucose and water.

While stirring, add the pectin NH, salt, ground cubeb

pepper and powdered hazelnuts. Bring to a boil.

With a pastry bag, mark out squares the size

of the brochettes and sprinkle with finely ground

cacao nibs.

Cook at 180ºC/356ºF in a ventilated oven

for approximately 15 minutes until golden brown.

Keep in a dry place.

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TO SERVESauté the satay of bay scallops in butter. Place a bed of warm mango

at the base of a plate and align the satay on top. Generously cover with

sauce and place a square of of cacao nibs nougatine. Without moving

from the chair we have the impression of traveling far, very far…

FOR 8-10 TR

AVE

LERS

A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, TOASTED PINE NUTS, PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCEThis is the so-called cuckoo of the seas. Like its

acolyte, the red mullet, it arouses great culinary

interest. Its slightly fleshier meat requires

a longer cooking time. I scratched my head

and suddenly remembered the delicious mole

I had eaten long ago during a meal prepared

by Potel and Chabot. It was made with numerous

exquisite ingredients that I can’t recall

completely, but the one that remains

on my palate is the grouper: fleshy and velvety

at the same time. It was almost lacquered

in a mahogany chocolate sauce with spices…

but which ones?

Taken with this distant but intact memory,

I decided to “moletize” my gurnards! I am very

satisfied with this dish because, though it is not

identical to the one I tasted in Paris ten years

ago, I know the elements are there.

I would have liked to try it with grouper, but

it is difficult to find in Tain l’Hermitage!

I will now take you on a short tour

of Mexico, one of the countries in which

chocolate has reigned in cuisine for a long

time, providing often memorable chocolaty

notes.

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Scale and clean the fish.

Remove the gills and wash with salted water.

Rinse and drain.

Cook the sugar dry at 185-190ºC/365-374ºF

o caramelize.

Deglaze with the fish fumet.

Add the white wine and the opened, grated vanilla

beans, the fresh tamarind pods, the grated ginger

and, lastly, the chilies.

Add the passion fruit pulp and slowly reduce

the mixture by approximately a third.

Emulsify the chocolate by gradually adding the hot

liquid. The preparation should be liquid, but velvety.

THE FISH THE PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE

8 to 10 red gurnards • Coarse salt8 3/4oz brown sugar • 2 vanilla beans • 10 1/2oz fresh passion fruit pulp • 6/7 cup white wine • 1qt fish fumet • 2oz fresh ginger •4 fresh tamarind pods • 2 pico de pájaro chilies • 8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 4 2/5oz toasted Spanish pine nuts

1. RED GURNARDS.

2. COOK THE SUGAR DRY AT 185-190ºC/365-374ºF,USING A THERMOMETER, UNTIL IT BECOMES BROWNCARAMEL.

3. DEGLAZE WITH THE FISH FUMET.

4. ADD THE WHITE WINE AND SPICES.

5. THEN ADD THE PASSION FRUIT PULP.

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Add the toasted pine nuts.

In a large round baking pan with a cover, or even

better, if you happen to have a tajine, place the already

prepared red gurnards and cover with all

of the chocolate sauce. Cover and bake in the oven

for approximately 45 minutes at 180ºC/356ºF.

Open the oven every 15 minutes to baste the gurnards

and homogenize the sauce with a spoon.

As soon as the filets begin to separate from the dorsal

fin, they’re done!

6. LEAVE TO COOK AND REDUCE, MAKING SURE THAT THE TAMARINDS HAVE MELTED CORRECTLY.

7. STRAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS AND EMULSIFY WITH THE CHOCOLATE.

8. COVER THE FISH WITH SAUCE AND COOK IN A BAKING PAN OR EARTHENWARE POT, UNTIL JUST OPAQUE.

TO SERVEKeep it simple: if using a tajine, it can be brought directly to the table and will

keep everything hot.

If not, simply serve on plates, hot ones of course, with a side of your choice;

personally, I like this dish with ears of corn, blanched, buttered, salted

and grilled, but… do whatever sounds best!

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FOR 10 ST

ARS

This large decapod crustacean reigns on all of the

world’s great restaurant menus. Whether served

in Thermidor, with sauce américaine or in bisque,

it is always received with wide eyes—it is almost

mythical.

It is not uncommon to also see it, with the talent

of some chefs, prepared with vanilla, sweet

and sour, spices, honey… among those I’ve

tasted. To be honest, multiple approaches

tempted us for this recipe. Each was quite

different from the others, first of all in terms

of chocolate.

White chocolate was the keeper.

Just thinking about those great family moments

in Brittany spent savoring grilled lobster,

with a warm béarnaise sauce and its “enhancing”

and memorable acidity, I see it acidified.

And there it is, an idea.

Just barely cooked, covered in a sort of silky

béarnaise delicately perfumed with white

chocolate and Menton lemon… Onward with

the trials. Few were necessary, to tell the truth,

to concretize an idea that was already quite clear

in my head.

The sweetness of the milk, the smoothness

and subtle flavor of the cocoa butter, give

the well-deserving lobster a delicate habitat.

In short, as you can tell, I’m a big fan!

Another small detail I should tell you: I am not

a chronic Francophile—far from it—but in our

trials, we noticed that the Brittany lobster, unlike

its Canadian and American cousins, has no need

to redden. On the contrary, it wins even with

eyes closed: one recognizes it, feels that it stands

out, in aroma and flavor. It is he—stop the

races—who has been chosen for the podium, for

the show, for the photo shoot.

This is one of the dishes we ate in the studio…

after the photo, of course.

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POACHED LOBSTER TAIL,CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATEWITH LEMON AND VERBENA,BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABYSPINACH

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In a large pot, combine all the vegetables as well as

the lemon juice and zest.

Add the white wine and cover with water. Heat

and season.

In the meantime, prepare the lobsters. It is not always

easy, insensitive as you might be, to cause these little

critters pain. You can always ask for it to be done

when purchasing the lobsters.

Remove the claws and tails, and refrigerate

the “octopod” heads.

Tie the tails to two wooden skewers to keep them flat

when cooking, without which they would naturally

curl up. Add tails and claws to the gently boiling

water. After 4 or 5 minutes, depending on thickness,

take them out and carefully remove the shells

as quickly as possible.

Conserve the shells for the fumet and the tail

“panaches” for the presentation. Refrigerate

immediately. And now for the fumet and lobster heads.

With a large knife, cut the heads in half.

Add them to the stock from cooking the lobsters

and, if necessary, add more water to cover.

Reduce for approximately 2 hours, stirring

occasionally. The flavor should be strong, relatively

iodized, but not bitter.

Strain first through a chinois and a second time

through an etamine. Refrigerate.

THE LOBSTERS AND FUMET

10 Brittany lobsters • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 5/6oz coarsely chopped carrots • 1 ripe tomato • Zest of 1 lemon • Juice of 1 lemon • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. I AM NOT A CHRONIC FRANCOPHILE, FAR FROM IT, BUTIN DOING OUR TESTS WE REALIZED THAT THE BRITTANYLOBSTER LEAVES NOTHING TO BE DESIRED WHENCOMPARED TO ITS CANADIAN AND AMERICANCOUNTERPARTS. HOWEVER, FOR THE PHOTO, AND FORWANT OF BRITTANY LOBSTER, AS WELL AS FOR ITSALMOST CHOCOLATE LOOKING SHELL, WE OPTED FORTHE CANADIAN TYPE.

2. REMOVE THE TAIL FROM THE LIVE LOBSTERS. TIE TWO CHOPSTICKS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TAILS.

3. FASTEN EACH TAIL TIGHTLY.

4. THE TAILS SHOULD BE FLAT.

5. REFRIGERATE THE TAILS UNTIL JUST BEFORECOOKING.

6. POACH IN THE STOCK FOR A FEW SECONDS TOFACILITATE THE REMOVAL OF THE SHELLS.

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WHITE CHOCOLATE ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON AND FRESH VERBENA

1 3/4 cups lobster fumet • 4 fresh verbena leaves • Juice of 1 lemon • Zest of 1 lemon • 2 whole eggs • 2 egg yolks • 3 1/2oz Ivoirewhite chocolate • Salt and freshly ground pepper

SAUTÉED FRESH SPINACH WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER

21oz fresh spinach • Nyons olive oil with lemon* • 1 scoop freshbutter • 2 cloves of new, peeled garlic • Salt and freshly groundpepper

7. PREPARE AN EMULSION WITH THE WHITECHOCOLATE AND THE LOBSTER FUMET INFUSED WITHVERBENA AND LEMON ZEST.

8. CONTINUE TO GRADUALLY ADD THE FUMET TOACHIEVE AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUS TEXTURE. KEEP HOTTO WHIP WITH THE EGGS JUST BEFORE SERVING.

9. JUST BEFORE SERVING TIME, ADD THE WHOLEEGGS AND EGG YOLKS. BEAT VIGOROUSLY.

10. RUN THROUGH THE MIXER FOR A FEW SECONDSBEFORE COATING THE LOBSTER TAILS, WHICH WILLHAVE BEEN JUST REMOVED FROM THEIR SHELLS AND CUT INTO THIN SLICES.

11. SWEAT THE SPINACH LEAVES IN BUTTER WITH THE TWO NEW, WHOLE GARLIC CLOVES THAT WILLBE REMOVED AT THE END OF THE PREPARATION.

TO SERVEUpon order, cook the tails and claws, but not

excessively.

Remove them from their shells.

On hot plates, place the sautéed spinach and top

with a crescent of lobster tail slices. Coat with

the onctueux of white chocolate and verbena.

Finish by adorning the plate with the lobster tail.

It’s so good… how did I not think of it before?

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Boil the fumet and infuse with the verbena and lemon

zest. After 4 minutes, strain through a chinois.

Gradually pour over the melted chocolate to begin

the emulsion. Add the eggs, yolks and lemon juice.

Carefully wash the spinach.

In a frying pan, add a little water with the oil, butter

and garlic. Place over high heat and add the spinach.

Stir constantly, until the spinach is cooked but not

overdone. Remove the garlic cloves and season.

Keep warm to serve.

* Lemon olive oil is made at home by marinating Menton lemon zest in the oil.

Whip with a whisk over very low heat or, even more

cautiously, in a bain-marie.

The preparation becomes unctuous and slightly foamy.

Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

156

RECIPE PREPARED TO COMFORT 3UNSU

RE, 2 FAINT AND 5 APPREHENSIVE

GUESTS. ALL OF WHOM ARE ESSENTIALLY GOURMAND, OTHER THAN THAT…

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GRILLED RED MULLETFILETS, EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHASAFFRON FRAGRANCES,MARBLED LASAGNEHow to resist the temptation to cook a fish you

love? It is my case—I don’t know what bug I was

bitten by, but I adore it.

Is it because these acanthopterygians* live mainly

around rocks and feed on very mineral-rich

plankton that their flavor is so strong and

particular? Most certainly.

The red mullet also has that iodized flavor that

has already inspired us in other dishes, as well as

meat that resists the fork when properly cooked.

Contrary to certain white fish that only excel

with sweet combinations or contrasts, the red

mullet likes to be roughed up.

The faint, unsure and apprehensive need only

hold on tight: here we go!

* I looked in the dictionary! “Bony fish with spiny dorsal fins”

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FOR THE RED MULLETS AND FUMET

MARBLED LASAGNE

5 beautiful Brittany red mullets • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 chopped leek (green part only) • 2 3/4oz coarsely choppedcarrots • 1 ripe tomato • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt andfreshly ground pepper

For the cocoa dough17 1/2oz extra fine wheat semolina • 1 2/5oz cocoa powder • 1/4 tbsp fine salt • 1/5 cup water • 4 eggs (1 3/4-2oz) • 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil

For the white dough17 1/2oz extra fine wheat semolina • 1/4 tbsp fine salt • 2 3/4 tbsp water • 4 eggs (1 3/4-2oz) • 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil

1. RED MULLETS.

2. PLACE STRIPS OF CHOCOLATE DOUGH OVER THE BANDS OF WHITE DOUGH.

3. FINELY PRESS THE DOUGH TO OBTAIN MARBLEDLASAGNE.

4. COOK JUST BEFORE SERVING, AND MAKE SURE TO COOK THEM “AL DENTE”.

In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.

Add the white wine and cover with water.

Heat and season. Meanwhile, prepare the red mullets.

Scale, clean and separate the filets. Remove the bones

that sometimes remain in the filets, wash with salted

water, rinse and refrigerate until serving time.

Gut the remaining bones and rinse. Add these bones

to the hot stock. Cover with water and reduce

for approximately 1 1/2 hours, stirring from time to

time. We should end up with around 2 1/8-2 1/2 cups.

The flavor should be strong, relatively iodized,

but not bitter.

Strain first through a chinois and a second time

through an etamine. Refrigerate.

In a mixing bowl, either with a mixer or a wooden

spoon, mix together the semolina, powdered cocoa

for the cocoa dough mixture, salt, water and eggs.

Knead slowly and, just when the dough acquires a

slightly elastic texture, add the oil.

Finish kneading by hand and refrigerate for a few

hours, or better still, overnight.

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Finely press the two types of dough together to give

a marbled effect and cut into wide, irregular strips

of lasagna.

Just before serving, cook in boiling, salted water. Take

care to cook the lasagne “al dente”, and add a little bit

of oil so that they do not stick together.

Serve immediately.

TO SERVEDrape the marbled “al dente” lasagne onto hot plates,

and place a seared red mullet filet at the center.

Coat generously with the two chocolate fumet and top

with a few julienned lemon zests and the green

asparagus.

By just smelling the exotic aromas of this dish it occurs

to me that it would have gone very well in a tajine as

well, so give it a try!

Throw the asparagus into the boiling, salted water.

Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, drain.

Cut lengthwise into thin slices.

Sauté in butter for a few seconds, season and serve.

BOILED ASPARAGUS

17 1/2oz green asparagus • Butter • Salt and freshly groundpepper

5. SAUTÉ THE RED MULLET FILETS WITH OLIVE OIL.COOK IT ALMOST ENTIRELY ON THE SKIN SIDE.

6. FINISH ON THE OTHER SIDE FOR JUST A FEWSECONDS AND SEASON BEFORE SERVING.

Cleanly remove the lemon zests with a peeler;

they will be needed for the presentation.

Combine the fumet, lemon juice, zests and saffron

together and reduce by half.

Strain through a chinois and retrieve the lemon zests.

Emulsify the reduction with the two kinds

of chocolate.

Adjust the seasoning and keep hot for service.

At serving time, finely julienne the lemon zests.

EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATEFUMET WITH LEMON ZESTS AND SAFFRON

2 1/8 cups red mullet fumet • 4 lemon zests • Juice of 1 lemon • 12 saffron pistils • 3 1/2oz Jivara milkchocolate 40% • 1oz Manjari chocolate 64% • Salt and Espelette pepper

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FOR 8-10 FANSOF MAGIC

STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE,LAÏ CHU REDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN PEPPERIt’s the Houdini of cold seas, in reference

to the famous magician and illusionist.

Depending on its origin, whether or not it is

smoked or salted, it takes on a new look, a new

color, and, to make matters worse, a new name.

It can be very confusing.

Fresh, it is called cabillaud in France and bacalao

in Spain, among other names.

Salted and not dried, we call it morue, more

precisely morue verte (green cod).

Dried but not salted, it becomes merluche

in France, stockfish in other places…

Black and fresh, it is called eglefin.

Green and smoked, it is haddock.

To make things simple, let’s call it cod.

A fish that is in vogue, so much so that the Danes

and Icelanders have started farming it; this makes

it difficult to guarantee the wonderful flavor we

have come to expect from our beloved cod.

Fresh, it has pure white meat that is very prized

by gourmets.

When cooked properly, the meat breaks apart

like shiny leaves whose gelatin makes them

wonderfully silky.

Its flavor is mild but very present—this fish can

be prepared in multiple ways.

Here, you will experience it accompanied by

a faux hollandaise sauce made with chocolate

and Laï chu: this illustrious Chinese rice wine,

aged in oak, offers unmistakable aromas of resin

or of oxidized wines, like our delicious Arbois.

This hollandaise is false, because if we consult

the culinary canon, we find that the basic

ingredients are absent and that the others…

well, they have no business here!

Only the texture, the principles of preparation

and the temperature made us think of it.

Steamed to perfection, the skin is then grilled in

a gaufrette iron and, to stay in Asia, we delicately

perfume a foamy cream with fumet and

Szechuan pepper, and roast a few thin slices

of garlic.

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In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.

Add the white wine and cover with water.

Heat and season.

Meanwhile, prepare the fish.

Scale the cod and separate the filets.

Wash with salted water, rinse and refrigerate.

Gut the fish, if you haven’t already, and remove the

gills. Chop the dorsal fin into pieces and cut the head

in two; wash and add to the stock when it begins to

boil. Boil for approximately 1 hour, skimming the

foam off occasionally.

Strain first through a chinois and a second time

though an etamine, and reduce by half to make 2/3 to

6/7 cup of reduced fumet.

Refrigerate.

FOR THE COD FUMET FOR THE FISH AND SKIN GAUFRETTES

1 fresh cod, around 5 1/2lbs • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 chopped leek (green part only) • 2 3/4oz coarsely choppedcarrots • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 ripe tomato • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper 8 cod pavés • 8 rectangles of skin • Clarified butter

1. PREPARE THE FISH FUMET WITH THE HEAD, BONESAND VEGETABLES.

2. PLACE THE COD PAVÉS ON LETTUCE LEAVES TO LIGHTLY STEAM IN A STEAM OVEN OR IN ACOUSCOUSSIER.

3. WHEN THE COUSCOUSSIER IS HOT AND GIVES OFFSTEAM, COOK THE COD PAVÉS. AFTER 7 OR 8 MINUTESTHEY WILL BE COOKED, WITH A FIRM, WARM INTERIOR.

4. CUT THE SKIN INTO RECTANGLES AND SLOWLYBROWN IN OIL.

5. STOP THE PROCESS WHEN THE RECTANGLES AREWELL BROWNED AND CRISPY. KEEP WARM AND DRYFOR SERVING.

Separate the skin from the filets, taking care to keep

them intact. Cut the filets into 8 pieces of about

5 1/3oz each, and refrigerate. Fry the rectangles

of skin in oil, covered with sulphurized paper

and held down flat by the weight of a pan or a pot.

Once golden, set aside until serving. The cod pavés

will be lightly steamed upon order. I use a couscoussier,

and it works wonderfully.

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5

6. LAÏ CHU: CHINESE RICE WINE AGED IN OAK. IN ITS ABSENCE, USE DRY WHITE WINE OR EVENBETTER, SHERRY.

7. SAUTÉ THE DE-SALTED SEA LETTUCE IN BUTTERAND SERVE.

CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE(ALMOST MAYONNAISE), LAÏ CHU REDUCTION

CREAMY FUMET WITHSZECHUAN PEPPER

THE GARNISH

2 chopped garlic cloves • 1 chopped shallot • 6/7 cup Laï Chu •3 egg yolks (1 2/5oz) • 2/5 cup reduced fish fumet • 1 1/4-1 1/2cup KKO oil (see page 284) • Soy sauce • Red Tabasco

The remaining fumet • Szechuan pepper • Whipping cream •Salt

Sea lettuce leaves (laitue de mer) • Fresh butter • 10 garliccloves • Clarified butter

Heat the KKO oil to approximately 45ºC/113ºF.

Reduce the garlic, shallots and Laï Chu until it acquires

a slightly syrupy consistency. Strain through a chinois.

We should obtain a maximum of 1/5 to 1/4 cup of

juice.

Add the egg yolks and fumet to this reduction.

Over low heat, or in a bain-marie, stir frequently

to coagulate the preparation.

Once the texture is achieved, begin to gradually

add the KKO oil while stirring constantly. The mixture

will fall slightly, but this is normal.

Adjust the seasoning with the soy sauce and Tabasco.

Keep hot until serving.

It is recommended that you prepare this sauce just

before serving, like a “real” hollandaise!

The final touch to balance the dish.

Heat the fumet and infuse with a few ground Szechuan

peppercorns. After 3 to 4 minutes, strain through

a chinois.

Add the cream to your liking, salt if necessary

and bring to a boil.

Just before serving, blend for a few moments to give

a foamy texture.

Remove the salt from the seaweed by soaking in water

for a minimum of a few hours beforehand. Drain

and sauté with butter before serving.

Separately, peel and thinly slice the garlic cloves.

Brown them in butter over low heat.

Be careful not to brown too much or they become

bitter!

TO SERVEPlace a few sautéed sea lettuce leaves in the center of the plate.

Top with a steamed cod pavé.

Elegantly arrange a few golden garlic chips and crown with the crispy skin.

Finish by abundantly coating with hollandaise sauce and a few ribbons of creamy fumet

with Szechuan pepper.

Another voyage for your taste buds, with no need for travel insurance…

Pure pleasure!

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FOR 8-10 TU

RBOPHILES*

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE,CHOCOLATE POLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TAROBRUNOISE, FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICEDCHOCOLATE FLAKESA fish with cult status among chefs. They love it,

cherish it; everything is made sweeter for it in

preparations, sauces and doneness. Sauces are

never too cooked or too strong so that this noble

fish’s meat retains its prized original flavor.

On the palate as well, it is all lovely, the silkiness

of the meat and the delicate flavor. Our many

trials notwithstanding, we ultimately resigned

ourselves to the path of almost mandatory

respect demanded by this fish. It is consequently

one of the rare dishes without a chocolaty sauce

in one form or another.

Who would have imagined that these fish,

turned into dishes, would also have to accept

the fact that the disproportionate growth of their

bodies forces them to lie down?

It was nonetheless out of the question for them

to keep an eye in the sand—leave that to

the ostrich—and in fact, over time, these species

have evolved and moved their eyes not to face

the ground, but to the top of their heads! It was

much more practical this way.

Farmed turbot is now available, and in

comparison is acceptable, though admittedly

a bit less flavorful. Keep your eyes above ground:

let’s cook.

* A word invented by me, not yet in the dictionary…

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THE TURBOT

1 turbot, approximately 6 1/2lbs

1. TURBOT.

2. USING A SHARP KNIFE, REMOVE THE HEAD OF THE TURBOT.

3. CUT THE FISH DOWN THE CENTER.

4. WE OBTAIN TWO HALVES.

5. CUT INTO PIECES APPROXIMATELY 2 INCHES WIDE.

CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO

2 1/8 cup turbot fumet • 6/7 cup whipping cream 35% • 1 3/4oz pistachio paste • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Boil the fumet with the cream and adjust

the seasoning.

Reserve a small portion to emulsify with the pistachio

paste, the texture of which should be similar to that

of a supple mayonnaise, and hot.

For the rest of the creamy fumet, blend for a few

seconds before serving to give it a foamy, gourmand

texture.

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Wash the turbot and remove the head.

Be careful not to cut yourself here, as the bones

are large and sharp. With a large, serrated knife,

and very carefully, cut the turbot lengthwise,

in a precise manner down the dorsal spine to the tail.

We obtain two halves.

Cut 10 pieces, roughly equal in size; careful,

turbophiles have a sharp eye for these things!

For fun, we’ll make a nice fumet with the rest

of the bones and the head to accompany the dish.

More on that later.

Steaming is preferable for this preparation, using

the fumet if possible.

After cooking, remove the skin from both sides

and separate the two filets, then join them together

while still hot with the cold brunoise.

Serve immediately.

TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLOAROMAS, RAPESEED OIL

10 1/2oz taro* brunoise • 2 very ripe tamarillos (tree tomatoes)• Chopped pistachio • Juice of 1 lemon • Rapeseed oil • Saltand freshly ground white pepper

6. SPRINKLE THE POLENTA INTO THE BOILING MILKAND STIR CONSTANTLY UNTIL IT BEGINS TO A BOILAGAIN.

7. ADD THE CHOCOLATE IN CHIP FORM, AND ADJUSTTHE SEASONING.

8. SPREAD THE POLENTA OUT ONTO PLASTIC WRAP TO AN APPROXIMATE HEIGHT OF 3/8 INCH.

Blanch the taro brunoise until “al dente” and cool

with water.

Peel the tamarillos and cut in half to remove the seeds.

Cut its juicy, carmine colored meat into a brunoise.

Combine the taro, tamarillo and pistachios and season

moderately with the lemon juice, rapeseed oil, salt

and white pepper. Keep very cold since it will be

served cold as well.

* Large tuber of African origin.

CHOCOLATE POLENTA

1 2/3 cups whole milk • 3 1/2oz precooked polenta • 1 2/5oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Salt and pepper

Bring the milk to a boil and sprinkle in the polenta.

Stir constantly and bring to a boil. Before removing

from the pot, add the chocolate, season and finish

the mixture.

Transfer to a baking sheet, approximately 3/8 inch

thick, covered with plastic wrap. Refrigerate.

TO SERVEOn hot plates, place the polenta, a freshly cooked fish

filet and garnish with the sweet and sour taro

brunoise.

Top with another turbot filet and finish with

the chocolate polenta.

Encircle everything with a ring of creamy, foamy

fumet and finish with a ribbon of pistachio fumet.

For greater enjoyment, the maître d’ might wish

to grate at the table, just as he would a truffle

or Parmigiano Reggiano, the spiced chocolate that

I created at Valrhona, Xocopili.

Chocolate… but savory! Spiced… but with what?

Mission accomplished, you have surprised the senses

once again.

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At serving time, cut the polenta into pieces roughly

the same size as the pieces of turbot.

Brown for a few moments before assembling a type

of sandwich by placing the fish between two golden

slices of polenta.

A PILGRIMAGE FOR 8-10 PILGRIM

SSURF AND TURF SCALLOPSBREADED IN CACAO AND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDSBy all accounts, pilgrims on their way to Santiago

de Compostela (Saint-Jacques in French) would

pick up large shells along the way and attach

them to their hats and coats. Not knowing their

name, they called the shells “Saint-Jacques”

(today the French word for scallop).

It has since become the big star of the Saint-

Brieuc bay and divides its time during the annual

scallop fest between the three scallop-rich ports

of the Armor Coast, Erquy, Saint-Quay Portrieux

and Loguivy-de-la-Mer.

Not in its wildest dreams did it ever think

(nor did we, for that matter) that it would one

day be dressed in chocolate. In fact, having tried

it in almost every way, it was difficult for us

to picture it with chocolate. We therefore opted

for the cacao flavor of nibs.

It was almost a revelation. The wonderful

flavor of this “great pilgrim”, enriched by

a long iodized note, fuses with the nib milk.

Finally, it is just barely chocolaty: a successful

pairing.

Though I am not a great fan of Surf

and Turf, I admit that here I let myself be

tempted by Sébastien’s idea in which iodine,

nibs and fennel cohabitate so well.

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Carefully wash the scallops in salted water. Dry with

a cloth and wrap each scallop with a slice of pancetta

before skewering. Coarsely grind the cacao nibs

and pistachios.

Beat the eggs and sift the flour onto a flat plate.

BREADED SCALLOPS “SURF AND TURF”

30 scallops • 30 slices, lean pancetta • 2 whole eggs • 7/8oz flour • 3 1/2oz cacao nibs • 3 1/2oz peeled pistachios • Salt and freshlyground pepper

1. WRAP EACH SCALLOP WITH A THIN SLICE OF LEANPANCETTA AND SKEWER.

2. AT SERVING TIME, BROWN ONE SIDE ON HIGH HEAT.

3. DIP THE OTHER SIDE IN THE FLOUR AND THEN INTHE BEATEN EGGS.

BABY FENNEL “AU BLANC”

8-10 baby fennels • Butter • Vegetable stock • Salt and freshlyground pepper

First, boil the fennel taking care they retain their

crispiness.

Before serving, finish them “au blanc”, with a scoop

of butter and a few spoonfuls of vegetable stock or,

in its absence, water.

Season and assemble.

4. FINALLY, BREAD WITH THE GROUND CACAO NIBSAND PISTACHIOS.

5. COOK WELL ON THE BREADED SIDE AND JUST AFEW SECONDS ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND SEND IT OFF!

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At serving time, and thus cooking time, brown

one side only and remove from heat.

Dip the other side in the flour, then in the eggs

and finally in the cacao nibs and pistachio mixture.

Sauté in oil and season.

6. BOIL THE MILK AND STEEP THE CACAO NIBS FOR 6 TO 8 MINUTES AND STRAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS.

7. ADD THE WHIPPING CREAM ALONG WITH THE FENNEL SEEDS AND GELATIN. BRING TO A BOIL.MAKE AN EMULSION WITH THE CHOCOLATE AND THISVERY HOT MIXTURE. STRAIN IT ALL THROUGH A CHINOIS AND KEEP HOT UNTIL SERVING.

8. UPON ORDER, BLEND THE MILK WITH CACAO NIBSAND CHOCOLATE FOR A FEW SECONDS TO MAKE AN APPETIZING MOUSSE.

FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE WITH FENNEL SEEDS

2 1/2 cups fresh milk, or better yet, raw • 3 1/2oz cacao nibs • 2 gelatin sheets • Fennel seeds • 2/5 cup whipping cream • 1 3/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Boil the milk and steep the cacao nibs for around

7 to 8 minutes, then strain through a chinois.

Add the whipping cream, fennel seeds and soaked

gelatin sheets and bring to a boil.

Make an emulsion with the chocolate, season and heat

again.

At serving time, froth the hot mixture with a handheld

blender.

Place around the scallops just before sending the dish

off to preserve this foamy, gourmand texture.

TO SERVEAt the base of hot plates, place 3 breaded scallops per person.

In the center, between the scallops, plant the “lustrous”, tender fennel and finish

by garnishing everything with the cacao nib foam with fennel.

It’s now 11:17pm as I write out this recipe for you on my computer, I’m hungry

and my mouth is watering.

What bad luck! I have everything I’d need for this recipe except the scallops.

What to do?

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RECIPE PREPARED FOR 8-10 GUEST

S

PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC,COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME, FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCKNear our respective homes, Les Dombes are

nestled in the north-east of Lyon.

In the midst of their thousands of lakes, they are

home to numerous delicacies: game of the

waters, freshwater rulers such as pike, but also

the famous frogs, batrachians so coveted by some

and feared by others.

Culinary history gives us frogs prepared in

many ways.

There, the method is often authentic. Being

meaty, they conserve their inner tenderness best

when sautéed, hiding it under a crisp golden

crust. In persillade remains perhaps the best way

to prepare them. I remember that at Roger

Douillé’s, I used to love them this way: just

sautéed, they were covered in a light cream sauce

with a wonderful roasted garlic aroma. A bit like

Japanese tepanyaki, on which thin slices of garlic

are grilled until golden brown.

We would uncover these wonderful aromas

under the foamy cream, in addition to the notes

of cooking juice deglazed with white wine.

A few leaves of flat parsley enhanced

the ensemble, a real delicacy.

Here, it is with foamy, creamy and crisp textures

that you will savor them, of course with notes

of cacao beans. A bold but wonderful pairing

that is, in the end, almost normal!

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In a pot, combine the water, wine, carrots, onions,

clove and chive. Season and bring to a boil for

1 to 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, wash the frog legs in salted water

and rinse. Add to the boiling hot stock and poach

on very low heat for around 5 minutes without

boiling. Strain and let cool.

Carefully remove the meat from the frog legs

and refrigerate along with the stock.

THE FROG AND THE STOCK CREAMY HEART OF DARKCHOCOLATE

MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG

2 1/8 cups water • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • 3 1/2oz coarselychopped carrots • 1oz finely chopped onion • 1 clove • 1 chopped chive • 20 fresh frog legs (9-11 per lb) • Salt andfreshly ground pepper

2/5 cup whipping cream 35% • 1oz frog stock • 2 2/3ozGuanaja chocolate 70% • 1/7oz wild thyme leaves • Salt andfreshly ground pepper

7oz frog meat • 14oz potatoes • 2 new garlic cloves • Salt andfreshly ground pepper • 6 sheets phyllo dough • Melted butter

1. USING A FORK, MASH THE POTATO PURÉE WITH THE FROG MEAT TAKING CARE TO PRESERVE THEPIECES OF MEAT INTACT.

2. COAT A STAINLESS STEEL RING WITH THE POTATOPURÉE AND COVER THE BASE WITH A 3/8-2/3 INCHTHICK LAYER.

3. INSERT A GANACHE DISC IN THE STOCK AND TOPWITH ANOTHER LAYER OF POTATO PURÉE.REFRIGERATE AND DEMOLD.

Boil the cream with the stock.

Infuse with the thyme for 4 to 5 minutes and strain

through a chinois.

Make an emulsion with the melted couverture.

Adjust the seasoning.

Cover the base of a tray with plastic wrap and pour

in the ganache to a height of approximately 3/8 inch.

Refrigerate. Once crystallized, cut the ganache using

a pasta cutter with a diameter of 1 1/2 inches,

after warming it on a flame.

Or save yourself the trouble and pour the hot

ganache directly into silicone molds 1/2 inch high

and 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and freeze.

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We recommend that you use Mona Lisa potatoes.

Wash and peel the potatoes and boil them in salted

water. Roughly mash the potatoes and add

the chopped garlic.

4. WRAP EACH “BISCUIT” WITH A SQUARE SHEET OF PHYLLO DOUGH.

5. RUFFLE AND PINCH LIGHTLY TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKEA CHARLOTTE. REFRIGERATE.

6. AT SERVING TIME, SAUTÉ THE FROG LEGS DIPPEDIN CORNSTARCH.

FOAMY FROG STOCKPERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS

BREADED FROG LEGS WITHTOASTED CORN FLOUR

2 1/7 cups frog stock • 7/8oz cacao nibs • 2/5 cup whippingcream • 1 1/4 tbsp cornstarch • Salt and freshly ground pepper

30 fresh frog legs (20/25 per kg) • Toasted corn flour • 1 lumpclarified butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Warm the cream and the stock and add the cacao nibs.

Steep for 4 to 5 minutes, not more.

Strain through a chinois. Dilute the corn starch in a bit

of liquid, then combine everything and bring to a boil.

Adjust the seasoning and reserve in a bain-marie.

Blend for a few seconds before serving to give it

a supple, foamy texture.

Wash the frogs in salt water and dry. Cleanly cut

the frog legs into “drumsticks” and roll them

in the cornstarch.

Remove the excess flour.

Sauté in butter until golden. Assemble and serve.

TO SERVELightly sauté the “biscuits” in clarified butter to give

the phyllo dough a nice golden color.

Finish by baking them in the oven at 170-180ºC/

338-356ºF for approximately 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, sauté the drumsticks and “foam” the frog

stock with cacao nibs.

Place the little biscuit at the center of the plate,

topped by the crispy drumsticks. For aesthetic value,

adorn with a few blanched, very fine green beans.

Encircle everything with the foamy stock.

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Add the frog meat and stir carefully in order to not

overly smash the mixture.

Adjust the seasoning.

Coat the sides of a stainless steel ring 2 3/8 inches in

diameter and 1 3/8 inches high with the potato purée

with frog and line the base with a layer 3/8 to 5/8 inch

thick.

Insert a cold or frozen ganache disc into the ring.

Cover and smooth with the remaining potato purée.

Remove the rings from the “biscuits” and refrigerate.

Spread out a preliminary phyllo dough sheet, butter

and season, top with a second sheet and press lightly.

Repeat the operation one more time to obtain

a “puff pastry” of 3 layers.

Cut each sheet into four squares and wrap each potato

“biscuit”. Press lightly to close for easier baking.

FOR 5 KINGS AND 5 QUEENS, OR WHOEVER YOU LIKE…

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IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉEDMONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE AND MEAUXMUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEASThis fish did nothing to warn me of all

of its surprises. Its almost enormous head

is not very attractive when spotted at the market.

For not having prepared it much, and especially

for having ruined it by overcooking it and

making it rubbery, I wanted to punish myself.

I had in fact eaten monkfish cheeks once

and found them delicious.

So here we were at the fishmonger’s, who first

sang the praises of monkfish cheeks, continuing

even more animatedly with monkfish liver.

I spotted the salmon-colored “lobe”, glistening

on the ice. “Lightly sautéed, in persillade,

it’s simple and delicious with a ribbon of vinegar:

you should try it!” he said.

The selling operation a success, we left with

our monkfish cheeks and liver in search of new

adventures.

We were pleasantly surprised when we followed

the man’s recommendation.

A texture of foie gras, or almost—it was a bit

creamier; the pure, iodized flavor of coral,

and the same bitterness or astringency you get

with foie gras.

I once again found my iodized notes,

accomplices of chocolate; the mustard went

straight to my nose and made me think of Brillat-

Savarin, who used to say of this Meaux mustard,

jewel of Mr. JB Pommery, that it was the mustard

of gourmets. That’s it! Thank you, Mr. Savarin

and Mr. Pommery.

I will remember Sebastien’s effort with this dish:

he summoned the great willpower to finally

agree to taste a fish (the horror!) and, what’s

more, to like it.

As for Rika, she assured me, from the height

of her office through her microphone, by saying:

“it’s really good” and by giving me the idea

of preparing it in a bouchée a la reine.

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INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS*

Kneaded butter:1lb type 45 flour • 2 1/2lbs butter

Détrempe:37oz flour • 1 2/5oz salt • 2/5oz vinegar • 11 5/7oz butter • 1 9/10 cups water

For the pâton:66 1/3oz détrempe • 55 1/2oz kneaded butter • 2 eggs for brushing

3. FOLD THE DOUGH SQUARES OVER AND CUT WITH A PARING KNIFE.

4. WE OBTAIN FRAMES OF PUFF PASTRY DOUGH WITHTHE CENTERS CUT OUT.

5. PLACE A WHOLE DOUGH SQUARE, BRUSH WITH EGGAND TOP WITH A SQUARE “RING”. BRUSH AGAIN AND REFRIGERATE FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE BAKINGAT 200-210ºC/392-410ºF.

1. BRUSH THE FIRST SQUARES OF PUFF PASTRYDOUGH MODERATELY.

2. USING THE TIP OF A KNIFE, ETCH THE SURFACETAKING CARE NOT TO PRESS TOO HARD.

For the kneaded butter:

Knead the butter with the flour and spread

between two plastic sheets. Let sit in the refrigerator

for a few hours.

To make the détrempe:

Knead the butter with the flour and add the salt.

Add the vinegar mixed with the water.

Knead the dough correctly without overworking

it and let sit in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours.

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For the tourage:

Spread out the kneaded butter to a sufficient size

in order to wrap the détrempe.

After the first folding, give a double turn, and let stand

for a minimum of 2 hours before the next double turn.

Refrigerate overnight and finish with a single turn

before preparation.

Spread the puff pastry dough 3/16 inch thick

and cut into squares, 4 inches by 4.

As shown in the photos above, cut out the middle

of 10 squares and leave another 10 whole. Brush

the whole squares with the egg and stack the square

“rings” on top. Brush again, taking care not to let

it drip, and etch a grid into the center. Let stand

for around 30 minutes before baking

at 200-210ºC/392-410ºF.

When finished, remove the tops with a paring knife.

This way they remain crispy.

* You can go to the trouble of making your own puff

pastry dough and achieve incomparable results, but if you

choose to simplify your life by purchasing frozen dough,

made with butter, and save your time for other things,

I understand. Nonetheless, I have provided you with

a recipe here just in case.

6. SAUTÉED MONKFISH LIVERS, CUT.

7. SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS.

IT LOOKS LIKE BECHAMEL… BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD

SAUTÉED MONKFISH LIVER AND CHEEKS

“GREEN PEACE” PURÉE

17 1/2oz fish fumet (See page 284) • 1 2/5oz praline, 50% nuts • 2 3/4oz Meaux mustard, Maison Pommery • 2/3oz cornstarch • 1 3/4oz whole milk • 3 1/2oz Guanajachocolate 70% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

17 1/2oz monkfish liver • 8 3/4oz monkfish cheeks • Butter •Salt and freshly ground pepper

14oz fresh shelled peas • 2/5 cup heavy cream • Salt andpepper

Dilute the cornstarch in the cold milk.

Add the praline and mustard, and whisk vigorously

to give it a smooth texture.

Heat the fumet and pour over the mixture.

Boil everything for 2 to 3 minutes, while whisking

constantly.

Pour a part over the chocolate to begin an emulsion;

continue adding the boiling cream. Season and

add the sautéed monkfish cheeks and liver, taking care

not to break them in the process.

Wash the liver and cheeks in salted water. Remove

the skin from both sides of the cheeks. Sauté

the cheeks and liver separately, over high heat.

Let cool and cut into pieces, not too small.

Set aside while you prepare the chocolate béchamel.

Cook the peas “al dente”.

Drain, let cool… and relax!

Add the cream, season and boil for one minute.

Blend finely in the food processor. For an even finer

texture, you can pass it through a silk sieve. Keep

hot for serving.

TO SERVEHeat the monkfish and chocolate filling and fill the puff pastries.

Cover with the tops and serve hot after adding a few spoonfuls

of pea puree.

If Mr. Bechamel could see us now! Perhaps he would be flattered to see

that his recipe can still inspire.

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EARTH

FILET OF VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE AND CELERIAC PURÉES, SWEET AND SOUR GRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE, HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCY AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM

SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY, SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES, LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND VIOLET MUSTARD

MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS, VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH

FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET AND SOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE, A FEW BEAN SPROUTS

SYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORK KNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES

SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ON THE BONE, SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF PASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVES

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE

BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED WITH CHOCOLATE, BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILD MUSHROOMS

STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITH CACAO NIBS, CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND ROSEMARY RABBIT JUS EMULSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATE

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FOR 8-10 GAMELOVERS OR RECALCITRANT FRIENDS

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FILET OF VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE ANDCELERIAC PURÉES, SWEET ANDSOUR GRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCEIn older cookbooks, as I mentioned in my

introduction, chocolate often appeared in sauces

for game in particular.

Think of hare a la royale, coq au vin, and various

other sauces.

The chocolate squares are melted in just before

serving to thicken the sauce. The often small

quantity of chocolate makes it go unnoticed.

With this dish, we have chosen a simple and

respectful cooking technique for the venison

through an English-style breading, nothing

more.

The sauce is more elaborate but still respects the

venison’s gaminess.

Two velvety purees round out the ensemble.

We are far from classic marinated venison stews,

in which the wine predominated at the risk of

making us forget that we were eating venison.

I think that the “new way of cooking”—a term

I prefer to “nouvelle cuisine”—is simply more

respectful of the original flavor of the

ingredients, as well as more correct in the usage

of the tools required to prepare them.

On the recommendation of Philippe, Philippe

Girardon, chef and maitre d’ with his wife

Laurence of the magnificent Domaine

de Clairefontaine in Chonas l’Amballan,

in the Isère region of France, I tried a so-called

“dry” marinade—in fact with oil. Something

new for me. It has such a beneficial effect on

the texture of meat, without altering its flavor,

that I’ve since adopted it for use in other dishes.

Philippe is also one of those people who, for

a few years now, have bravely tried my cuisine

and, moreover, boldly told me what they think.

In this dish, the venison retains its flavor intact.

It’s enough to win over all of those who remained

unconvinced about game.

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Mix the oil with the bay leaves, pepper and vegetables.

Cut the filet in two, lengthwise. Coat the filets in oil

and place them in a salad bowl so they are completely

immersed in the marinade. Refrigerate for 12 hours.

Prepare the breading before service.

Place the egg whites, flour and breadcrumbs onto

separate plates.

Remove the filets from the marinade, rinse them

gently and dry them well with a cloth.

Skewer them with a wooden skewer. Roll them first

in the flour, then in the egg whites and finally in the

breadcrumbs.

TO PREPARE THE VENISON CELERIAC PURÉE WITHCARAMELIZED CREAM

1 venison filet, 42-53oz • 1 1/4 cups vegetable oil • 1 choppedonion • 2 chopped bay leaves • Coarsely ground pepper • 1 coarsely chopped carrot

For the English style breading mixture8 3/4oz very fine breadcrumbs • 3 egg whites • Flour • Clean oil bath

17 1/2oz celeriac, diced • 10 1/2oz potatoes, diced • 1qt wholemilk • Salt and freshly ground white pepper • 5/7 cup doublecream • 1/2oz superfine sugar

1. SKEWER THE FILETS WITH A WOODEN SKEWER AND UNIFORMLY FLOUR THEM. REMOVE EXCESSFLOUR.

2. COAT IN THE FRESH EGG WHITES.

3. REMOVE ANY EXCESS EGG WHITES BEFOREROLLING IN THE DRY BREADING.

4. FRY UPON ORDER IN AN OIL BATH HEATED TO 170-180ºC/338-356ºF, TAKING CARE THAT THE CENTERREMAINS PINK.

Cook the celeriac and potatoes in the milk until

tender. Drain and dry in the oven for 15 minutes

at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF.

Weigh out 7 ounces of potatoes and set aside for

the purple purée.

Reduce and lightly caramelize the cream with

the sugar. Add the rest of the vegetables and season.

Very finely blend in the food processor and strain

through a very fine mesh sieve. Set aside.

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Repeat the steps for each filet, taking care to remove

the excess flour and egg.

It is the secret to achieving a perfect, smooth breading.

Fry in an oil bath heated to 180ºC/356ºF.

The temperature will drop immediately, so we must

return the oil to the temperature and maintain it

there until the breading is a deep golden color. Drain

and cut immediately, before the breading starts

to detach from the meat.

The temperature in the center should be 50-52ºC/

122-126ºF.

PURPLE PURÉE GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITHCORNAS WINE AND CHOCOLATE

SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRYCOMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE

10 1/2oz boiled red beets • 7oz boiled potatoes • 2 3/4oz coldbutter in cubes • Salt and freshly ground pepper

5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 1 lump butter • 2 3/4oz honey • 7oz griotte cherries, frozen • 1 cup Cornas red wine • 1 cupveal fond blanc, or even better, game stock • 1 1/6oz PurCaraïbe chocolate 66% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 1 large lump butter • 6 tbsp acaciahoney • 7oz frozen griotte cherries • 2/3 cup Cornas red wine (I like Monsieur Clape) • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Grind the beets and potatoes together.

Strain through a sieve.

Heat in a pot while stirring to evaporate the liquid

and give it a supple, smooth texture.

Remove from heat, add butter and season.

Keep hot.

In a sautoir, or skillet, brown the shallots in butter.

Separately, lightly caramelize the honey by itself, then

stop the process by adding the thawed griotte cherries.

Combine the two preparations and add the veal stock

and wine. Reduce slowly, to about half.

Strain through a chinois to obtain around 1 cup of jus.

Emulsify with the chocolate and adjust the seasoning.

Keep in a bain-marie or refrigerate immediately.

Brown the shallots well with the butter and honey.

Deglaze with the red wine and add the cherries.

Over very low heat, reduce until it acquires the texture

of compote, taking care not to let it become a puree.

Season.

Keep hot for serving or refrigerate immediately.

TO SERVEThe vegetable purees and the cherry compote should be kept hot.

Thicken the cherry sauce with the chocolate and blend for a few moments with a handheld

blender to give it a perfect velvety, lustrous texture.

Cut the venison filets into pieces as soon as they are taken out of the oil.

On a very hot plate, pour two intersecting lines of the vegetable purees, one of each.

Place a quenelle of griotte cherry compote with Cornas wine and generously coat the center

of the plate with the chocolate sauce. Finish with a pink morsel of breaded venison filet.

A simple gourmet moment… perfect, don’t you think, Eyvind Hellstrøm?

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FOR 8-10 LO

VERSOF SAGE AND LAMB

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GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATESAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE,HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCYAND CRISP BABY VEGETABLESThis dish is so simple, so under-worked, that

the flavor combination is almost logical. It is one

of the dishes that seemed evident to me before

even making it.

I remember the chickens my mother used

to make us when I was a child: they filled

the house with fresh sage, with the aroma

of crisp caramelized skin and reduced jus.

I didn’t get tired of it: I like sage. I have always

known it simply as it is, sometimes accompanied

by roasted garlic heads, and even then rarely.

In this dish, I have preserved it intact, simple and

authentic, with all of its freshness and camphor

notes—one would say it was freshly picked.

As for the lamb, it is one of my favorite meats.

Not far from where we live, in Drôme, lambs are

raised in Rémuzat, a rather charming village that

evidently does them good—well, the mountain

pastures that surround it, to be more precise.

Rika, who doesn’t like lamb, eats it anyway, and,

from the looks of it, even with some enjoyment.

It is not unusual with chocolatiers today,

or at least with the most playful of them, to come

across rosemary ganaches.

In the sage, we find complex notes of camphor,

pine needles, lemon, and even, when I think

of it, blue genepi, which Luc, my friend from

Embrun, sends me so kindly every year

by stagecoach or parachute, depending

on the weather…

It seems like it has always been made to go

with chocolate.

It is, then, a dish with references that are almost

evident to everyone, but with a lot of chocolate;

we sometimes even have a tendency to forget

it is there since its presence seems so natural.

As soon as we start to mix the chocolate sauce

and the amber lamb jus with the end of a fork,

lines appear on the plate like fondant

on a millefeuille, and then…

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Separate the two filets from the saddle of lamb and

wash them properly. Set aside.

With a cleaver, thickly cut the ribs, removing

any excess fat if present.

Place on a large tray and roast in a very hot oven in

order to toast the bones. Flip occasionally so

they brown in a uniform manner.

Take out of the oven and trim the fat.

In a large pot, brown the shallots in the oil and add

the onion, previously halved and charred over the

flames until almost black.

Add the remaining vegetables and white wine

and cover with water.

Reduce the stock for 8 to 10 hours, taking care to skim

and remove the fat when needed.

Strain through a chinois, then through an etamine

and reduce to a demi-glace, or by about two thirds.

Adjust the seasoning and set aside.

For the filets, sear them when they are very cold

on high heat, making sure they acquire a uniform

color.

Season and roast in the oven at 170-180ºC/338-356ºF

for a few minutes. The temperature in the center

should be 48-50ºC/118-122ºF. Let stand for

2 to 3 minutes and cut into thick slices.

TO PREPARE THE LAMB AND JUS

THE CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS

1 saddle of lamb, approximately 7 3/4lbs • 5 1/3oz choppedshallots • Nyons olive oil • 1 whole peeled onion • 7oz coarselychopped carrots • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 2 leeks(green part) • 1 celery stalk • 750 ml (1 bottle) dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper

6/7 cup whole milk • 8-10 fresh sage leaves • 4 2/5oz PurCaraïbe chocolate 66% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

17 1/2oz large potatoes • Butter and Nyons oil • Salt andpepper • Fresh assorted herb leaves (sage, flat parsley, etc.)

1. DE-BONE THE SADDLE OF LAMB AND SEPARATE THETWO FILETS.

2. POTATO TRANSPARENCY.

3. PLACE A FEW SAGE AND PARSLEY LEAVES BETWEENTWO POTATO SHEETS, THINLY SLICED WITH AMANDOLIN SLICER. BRUSH WITH OIL AND BAKE ON LOW HEAT BETWEEN TWO TRAYS.

Boil the milk and steep the chopped sage for no

more than 4 to 5 minutes. Strain through a chinois.

Emulsify with the melted chocolate, season and blend

for a few seconds to smooth the sauce to perfection.

Keep hot, or even heat it up a bit more so that

the sauce thickens by itself.

Do not let it boil!

Wash the potatoes without peeling them.

Using a mandolin slicer, cut into the thinnest slices

possible. Stack them in two piles of 20 slices each,

and cut into rectangles. There is no need to wash

them. Place 20 slices, one by one, onto oiled,

parchment paper. On each slice, position

an assortment of fresh herbs of your choice.

Cover with a second potato slice and press.

Using a brush, coat the surface with a mixture

of oil and butter. Cover with another sheet of paper

and place a tray of the same size on top to keep

pressure on the slices.

Bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF, checking the doneness

from time to time.

After 25 to 30 minutes the potato slices will be golden

and transparent. Remove from the oven and store

in a dry place.

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4. LIGHTLY SAUTÉ THE VIOLET ARTICHOKES IN OLIVEOIL AND SEASON.

5. QUICKLY BLANCH THE VEGETABLES THEN COOKTHEM WITH THE STOCK AND BUTTER.

SIDE VEGETABLES

5 small violet artichokes • 17 1/2oz young carrots • 5 1/3oz wild asparagus • Olive oil • Lemon juice • Butter • Vegetable stock •Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut the artichokes in two. Coat them lightly with oil

and lemon juice and sauté, covered, on low heat.

Remove the carrot leaves, wash them and boil in salted

water.

Do the same for the wild asparagus, but less time

is needed than for the carrots.

Follow by combining the vegetables in a pan with

the butter and stock.

Reduce while stirring to glaze the vegetables, little

by little. Season and assemble.

TO SERVEThe vegetables should be glazed and hot.

The lamb demi-glace and the chocolate-sage sauce maintain their supple, creamy texture

in the bain-marie. The lamb is done: rosy and sliced.

Place the vegetables on the plate in a haphazard manner. Cover with an initial potato and herb

transparency. Add the lamb slices on top, taking care to extract any excess blood with absorbent

paper. Generously coat with the Pur Caraïbe chocolate sauce with sage.

Arrange the second potato transparency and the golden, tender artichoke.

Finished! Order up for table 7, please!

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FOR 8-10 ADEPTS

OF RUM ADAPTATIONS

VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCOWITH TAHITIAN VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUMThis cut of meat on the bone (osso) with a hole

(bucco) is apparently Italian in origin. The dish

definitely is: it is made with tomato sauce

and traditionally served with rice.

We all know the richness and, at the same time,

the delicacy of veal—we need not discuss

it further here. With this type of meat, the choice

cuts are many and they have inspired numerous

specialties all over the world.

Cooked in osso bucco, we especially benefit from

the wonderful and particular flavor of the

marrow. For those who appreciate it, of course.

Though, as I’ve often noticed at home, those

who do not like marrow love my green risotto,

gold-plated if you will, a near perfect replica

of the one Frédérick had shown me at his

temporary apartment on Rue Lamarck. I stirred

and mixed so much and so well that I finally

understood how to do it.

Everyone at the table was reveling in it, scraping

their plates in appreciation of this wonderful

little flavor (rice sautéed in marrow… if they

only knew!); it makes me think that this type

of reticence, like many others in other parts

of the world, is due more to a question of look,

appearance or texture than taste.

It is true that eating the “substantive marrow

of a bone with a hole” seems a bit barbaric,

I must admit. We are not so far removed from

Koreans who eat the still-warm brains

of monkeys freshly trepanned for the cause.

Our escargots are not much nicer to talk about.

Getting back to our osso bucco, I kept the essence

of the meat in sauce and just slightly… modified

the ingredients. It has become a Creole dish!

Dark rum, vanilla, chilies, cinnamon, almonds,

grapes and chocolate. Cooked like bœuf

bourguignon, it has exotic flavors.

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VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE

10 good slices of veal shank • 5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 3 1/2oz chopped onions • Vegetable oil • 3 Tahitian vanilla beans • 1 2/3 cups Dillon aged rum • 1 bottle white wine • 4 2/5oz peeled almonds •5 1/3oz golden raisins • 2 pico de pájaro peppers • Salt • 7-8 3/4oz Pur Caraïbe chocolate 66%

1. SEAR THE MEAT SLICES IN A BIT OF OIL; BROWN THE SHALLOTS AND ONIONS WITH THE REST OF THEFAT IN A PAN.

2. POUR IN THE WHITE WINE, RUM AND WATER AND ADD THE SPICES, NUTS AND AROMATICS. SIMMER ON LOW HEAT FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS.

3. 30 MINUTES BEFORE SERVING, THICKEN THE STOCKWITH THE CHOCOLATE AND GENTLY SIMMER WHILECOVERED.

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For greater precaution, tie the veal slices with string

to preserve their form. Sear with a little oil and set

aside.

Toast the almonds in the oven at 140-150ºC/

284-302ºF for approximately 20 minutes and crack,

scrape and cut the vanilla beans.

In a sautoir, or skillet, brown the shallots and onions.

Deglaze with the rum, add the almonds, raisins,

vanilla beans and peppers, stir and flambé.

Add the white wine and veal slices and cover with

water. Lightly salt. Leave to cook, covered, on low heat

for approximately 2 hours, stirring from time to time

TO SERVEServe the osso bucco with the accompaniment of your

choice.

I opted for the Italian version, with rice, and it was

perfect. I just added a little grated coconut to the rice

before cooking. It is delicious and really gives

the impression of being there.

Lastly, I give you a final piece of advice: all types

of meats in sauces are better if you leave them to “sit”

for a night. And what’s more, it makes the mise en

place for the dish exceedingly simple.

4. THE DISH IS FINISHED AND THE SAUCE ISUNCTUOUS AND LACQUERS THE MEAT PERFECTLY.

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to avoid sticking to the pan.

When the cooking seems done, remove the meat with

care as it can easily come right off the bone -a sign

of perfect doneness!- and strain the rest through

a chinois. Save everything that is left in the chinois.

This process allows us to recuperate the juices for

the chocolate emulsion.

When the emulsion is finished, blend for a few

seconds for a perfect texture and combine with all

of the vegetables in the pot.

Return the meat to the pot and finish by cooking

slowly for 25 to 30 minutes. Ready to serve.

FOR 8-10 SO

UFFLÉ

ADDICTS

SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ,FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY,SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES,LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE ANDVIOLET MUSTARDAfter my experience with foie gras, I was quite

enthusiastic about the creation of this dish.

Having already done the terrine, we needed

to come up with another great idea.

We began with a chocolate custard, then

prepared a sort of soufflé in which we mixed,

as with the foie gras, a bit of liver, but… nothing

amazing came of it.

Sébastien had brought back foies blonds from

his mother’s that were deliciously fragrant

and velvety, very nearly foie gras. I could only

picture them well browned and crisp.

With an acidic note from I knew not where,

and why not with a good soufflé—the real

kind—a chocolate one… what else?

I remembered the nice gift Cyril had given me.

He came by the school and told me, “I have

a surprise!” He brought me Hermitage lie de vin

from Jaboulet.

That’s it, I knew where to get my light acidity

and turned directly to the violet mustard I have

in my fridge.

Sébastien gave me the idea of the small

Le Creuset cast iron pot: “that way, it won’t fall

as quickly… brilliant, isn’t it?” he said. Our

seatbelts were fastened.

We still had to make the savory soufflé, with

no added sugar except that of the chocolate.

I must say, I hadn’t expected so many attempts

in one sitting!

Finally, I had everything I like: the crisp

and tender foies, shallots almost confits, violet

mustard and a tip-top savory chocolate soufflé.

The secret to making it is cream of tartar. Little

known in our cuisine, it is much more common

in the United States, for example, where it is

“normal” to have, even for a housewife;

especially if one wants to make Chiffon Cake,

an incredibly soft cake that looks like a

marshmallow biscuit. Without giving you a full

technological explanation, but some nonetheless,

I will provide a few details on the subject.

Egg whites are composed, among other things,

of albumin. Its molecules are sensitive to acidity,

whatever the source; that is why, in the recipes

of pros or even gourmets, we often see lemon

juice, a drizzle of vinegar or a pinch of salt.

The effect can be explained by the following

image.

We could compare their molecules to thousands

of small balls of yarn. If they are well unraveled,

the whites are extremely light: one could almost

mistake them for shaving cream. If, on the other

hand, they are badly unraveled, the whites

“granulate, flocculate and separate.” In other

words, they are unattractive, rough and fall

worryingly into the mixture, often leaving lumps

in the process. Cream of tartar also has the virtue

of being neutral in flavor and not detracting at all

from the equilibrium of a dish.

There, I’ve told you everything, or almost

anyway.

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THE SOUFFLÉ DOUGH

8 3/4oz egg whites • 1 2/3 tbsp sugar • 1/10oz cream of tartar • 3 1/2oz egg yolks • 8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/7 cup whole milk • 2 1/2 tbsp cornstarch • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. WHEN YOU BEGIN TO EMULSIFY THE CHOCOLATEWITH THE BOILED MILK AND CORNSTARCH IT WILLCURDLE BUT STOP WITH THE ADDITION OF THE EGGYOLKS.

2. ADD THE EGG YOLKS AND WHISK VIGOROUSLY.

3. THE CHOCOLATE MIXTURE BECOMES SMOOTH AND LUSTROUS. MAKE SURE THE TEMPERATURE IS BETWEEN 35-40ºC/95-104ºF.

4. ADD THE WHIPPED EGG WHITES AND STIR GENTLYWITH A SPATULA.

5. WHEN FINISHED, THE DOUGH SHOULD BE SUPPLEAND LUSTROUS, READY FOR USE IN THE PASTRY BAG.

6. COAT WITH BUTTER AND FILL THE SMALL POTS OR RAMEQUINS. BAKE THE SOUFFLÉS AT 190-200ºC/374-392ºF FOR 8 TO 10 MINUTES.

7. THE BAKED SOUFFLÉ.

Combine the cold milk and cornstarch.

Bring to a boil while stirring and whisking vigorously

so that the mixture does not stick to the pan. After

boiling well, the mixture should be thick, creamy

and lustrous. Add the chocolate and egg yolks

and whisk vigorously until the mixture emulsifies

“by itself”, or in other words, becomes smooth. Season

and begin to whip the egg whites.

Combine the cream of tartar with the sugar and mix

into the egg whites all at once, while whisking

constantly.

Blend with a handheld mixer on high speed first

to increase volume, and when the egg whites start

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to hold to the mixer blades, continue at moderate

speed.

The egg whites will become light, smooth, very

smooth, and will resemble shaving cream, as we said

before. Whip until peaks form and add them

delicately, in two turns, to the chocolate mixture kept

at 35-40ºC/95-104ºF. Fill the small pots or ramequins

after coating the surface with butter.

At this point they can be refrigerated for up to a day,

or for both services if done in late morning.

Bake at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, depending on

thickness, for 8 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately,

just like a real soufflé!

TO SERVEI think we’ve covered everything already, or almost…

On hot plates, place a few lacquered foies, two generous ribbons of violet mustard

and lastly the soufflé… done!

Don’t forget that the steam it gives off is what keeps the soufflé “up”.

This explains why the better the heat is distributed, through a slow blending, and the larger

the mold—which allows it to retain heat better—the more efficient and active this steam

will be in supporting our construction. Now that’s really everything.

8, CRANBERRIES CONFIT. 9. SAUTÉ THE FOIES.

FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN, OR IN ITS ABSENCE, WINE

17 1/2oz poultry or fowl foies blonds • 5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 7/8oz superfine sugar • 2 1/2oz butter • 5 1/3oz lie de vin or syrah wine • 2 3/4oz dried cranberries • Salt and freshly ground pepper• 1 jar violet mustard

De-vein the foies as much as possible.

Brown the shallots in the butter and sugar.

Deglaze with the lie de vin, or wine, add the cranberries

and gently reduce until it acquires a syrupy, light

demi-glace consistency. In a separate pan, quickly

sauté the foies in butter on high heat, barely cooking

them.

Just before serving, combine the two preparations

and sauté for a few seconds to coat everything taking

care to not overly cook the foies, which would make

them dry.

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RECIPE PREPARED FOR 8-10 DINNERGUESTS

MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTEDWITH CACAO NIBS, VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASHA wild thing of beauty… a bewildering array

of colors, and the energy to explore the sky.

But also such delicately fragrant meat.

I couldn’t resist the desire to cook this game bird

that I love.

Just pink, with the flavor of cacao nibs roasted

to perfection, it captures us with tenderness

and delicacy.

It has always been rather complicated for us

to achieve such flavor equilibriums, especially

when working with such unique and delicate

flavors as mallard.

Sébastien was thinking about cooking it in a salt

crust, and I had an intuition: “why not add

nibs—in other words, chocolate—to this crust?”

Et voilà…

The basic concept is there once again, and all

that’s left is to interpret it in such a way as

to respect the ingredients and not inhibit

anything with the chocolate.

The chocolate flavor is given here in two ways.

The cacao nibs, strong and fragrant, give the salt

crust a much deeper role than a simple cooking

method: it’s tasty. The chocolate couverture

is there to make the duck jus smooth and silky.

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In a food processor, finely blend the nibs together

with the salt, flour and cocoa powder.

Add the egg whites and knead lightly with the palm

of your hand to give it a perfectly uniform and slightly

elastic texture.

Spread out the paste to a thickness of 3/16 to 1/4 inch

and dust with flour if necessary.

Using a paring knife, cut 20 oval pieces of 5 to

6 3/8 inches long and 3 to 4 inches wide.

Place 10 pieces onto parchment paper and keep

the rest under a damp, clean cloth.

FOR THE CACAO NIBS AND SALT CRUST

THE MALLARD FILETS

10 1/2oz grey Guérande salt • 21oz cacao nibs • 10 1/2oz eggwhites • 1 2/3 cups flour, type 45 • 2 2/3oz cocoa powder

4-5 mallard ducks, approximately 3 1/3-4lbs each, or 8-10 select filets of mallard duck prepared by the butcher, reserving thecarcasses for the stock • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Reserve the thighs for another occasion.

1. FINELY GRIND THE NIBS AND ADD THE GREYGUÉRANDE SALT. BLEND EVERYTHING FOR A FEWSECONDS.

2. ADD THE EGG WHITES AND BLEND TO GIVE THE PASTE A SLIGHTLY ELASTIC TEXTURE.

3. SPREAD OUT THE DOUGH TO A HEIGHT OFAPPROXIMATELY 3/16 INCH. PLACE THE SEARED,COOLED FILET ON TOP.

4. COVER WITH A SECOND LAYER OF PASTE AND“SOLDER” WITH YOUR FINGERTIPS. TRIM THE EXCESSPASTE FROM THE EDGES AND SMOOTH THE SURFACEWITH A WET BRUSH. FORM A SMALL STEM WITH THEPASTE AND BOND IT TO THE FILET WITH EGG WHITES.REFRIGERATE.

5. COOK UPON ORDER AT 160ºC/320ºF FOR 8 TO 10 MINUTES. USING A PROBE THERMOMETER, CHECKTHAT THE TEMPERATURE AT THE CENTER OF THEFILET IS 58ºC/136ºF. LET STAND FOR 3-4 MINUTESBEFORE OPENING AND SLICING.

Separate the duck filets yourself or use prepackaged

filets.

Using a very sharp knife, score a uniform grid pattern

into the skin. This will give them an attractive visual

appearance and facilitate trimming the fat when

searing the filets. Keep the filets very cold before

searing. In a hot stainless steel pan, place the filets

and press them down with the bottom of a pan to

ensure a uniform caramelization of the skin. Trim

the excess fat from the pan as it liquefies.

Stop the cooking when the skin and the grid are well

browned. Let the filets cool completely in the

refrigerator or cold storage room. Place each filet over

an oval of nibs and salt paste.

Moisten the perimeter with a wet brush.

Top with a second layer of cacao nib paste, pressing

firmly to enclose the filet in a sort of turnover.

Cut off the extra paste around the filet.

Moisten the entire surface with a brush and score

it with the tip of a knife to give it the appearance

of a cacao fruit.

Form a small stem with the paste. Refrigerate until

cooking, to be done just before serving.

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6. AFTER BLANCHING THE PATTYPAN SQUASH, SAUTÉTHEM IN BUTTER WITH THE TAGLIATELLE OF ZUCCHINI,DAIKON RADISHES AND CARROTS.

THE DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH

For the duck stock4 duck carcasses without the feet or giblets • 3 1/2oz carrots • 3 1/2oz onions • 1 garlic head • 1 leek (green part) • 3 sprigsflat parsley • 1 bay leaf • 2 sprigs thyme • Black peppercorns •Grapeseed oil • 1 bottle red wine, syrah type • 1qt water

The duck jus with chocolate2 1/8 cups duck stock reduction • 2 3/4oz Araguani couverture72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 nice carrots • 3 Daikon radishes • 3 zucchini • 20 yellowpattypan squashes • Fresh butter • Vegetable stock

Cut the carcasses into large pieces.

Wash and peel the vegetables. Coarsely chop.

Heat a Dutch oven and sear the carcasses in oil. When

they are well roasted, add the coarsely chopped

vegetables and unpeeled garlic cloves.

Cook until it has a nice color and add the red wine.

Bring to a boil and skim the fat a first time.

Add the aromatics (herb sprigs, pepper…), simmer for

approximately 1 hour, and add the water.

Simmer on very low heat for 18 to 24 hours.

Skim the foam and fat regularly.

When sufficiently reduced, let stand for 30 minutes

and strain through an etamine chinois.

Cool immediately over ice and refrigerate.

Wash and peel all of the vegetables except

for the pattypan squash.

Using a peeler, cut strips, not too wide, of the carrots,

radishes and zucchini.

To do this, hold the vegetables and turn them

gradually in your hand.

Boil the pattypan squash in salted water until just

tender.

Heat the butter and vegetable stock in a sauté pan,

add the vegetable tagliatelle and the pattypan squash

and stir over high heat to glaze the vegetables without

breaking the tagliatelle. Salt and pepper to taste.

Keep hot. TO SERVEPlace the duck “pods” in the oven, preheated to 160ºC/320ºF and cook for between 13 and

17 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filets.

Check the temperature while cooking using a probe thermometer. Do not exceed a temperature

of 50ºC/122ºF at the center.

Meanwhile, reheat the vegetables and check the emulsion of the duck jus with chocolate.

Arrange the vegetables onto the plate in an aesthetically pleasing way.

Carefully open the “pods” with the tip of a knife. Slice the filets thinly.

Place a few slices over the vegetables and leave the rest in the “pods”, presented as such at the table.

The slicing can be done directly at the table as well, for an even greater surprise.

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When the jus is sufficiently reduced, make

an emulsion with the chopped or melted couverture

and a small amount of very hot jus.

The emulsion is finished when it acquires a perfect

luster.

Adjust seasoning if necessary.

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FOR 8-10 ADVE

NTU

RERS

FILET MIGNON OF JODHPURPORK, SWEET AND SOUR ROASTPINEAPPLE, GARAM MASALACHOCOLATE SAUCE, A FEW BEAN SPROUTSThis is a well-known meat in western kitchens.

When we talk of farmed pork, which is what

we are able to find here, we have to know what

we are talking about. Being “organic farmed

pork” does not necessarily make it better. When

a product is “organic” it just means that it has

been raised or grown according to its natural

rhythm, with certain qualities and sometimes

certain faults, something that the consumer has

a tendency to misunderstand.

I found myself in front of the meat counter

in the supermarket: at the time we were

preparing these dishes, my friend Sylvain

the butcher was on vacation!

In France, the range of pork that is offered

is divided into three qualities: “first prize”,

farmed and organic farmed. The latter two

appealed to me instantly after seeing the price

of the first (I wondered how these farmers

managed to survive, yet I can’t say I was overly

concerned for them). The difference in color

among the three should give us the clues needed

to make the right choice, price notwithstanding.

I finally decided to try all three, “just to see”

as I said to Rika. Simply touching them is

enough to notice a difference.

Retraction, milky juices, a consistency that

is more or less firm, a meat that is more or less

“moist”, a varying coloration in the pan. So many

difficult things to try and guess while it sits

locked away under the plastic packaging

at the store. The moment of truth arrives: tasting,

with eyes closed, I am convinced that when

things follow their natural rhythm and are given

time to develop, the product is superior. One

of the main differences is the texture of the three

filets after we gently boiled them for 45 minutes:

it ranged from the most tender to the most dry.

As far as flavor is concerned, though less

noticeable, the differences are also quite evident.

I’d like to find out the actual differences in these

three meats. I’ll investigate and get to the bottom

of this… inspector!

This is the sweet and sour version with garam

masala and roasted Victoria pineapples. I found

that these accompaniments enrich the flavors

and textures and, with pork of this kind, make

the meat stand out at every turn.

The chocolate easily found its way into this dish,

which has pastry-like qualities in so far as its

contrasts are subtle and sweet.

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PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE

42oz pork tenderloin • 2 ripe Victoria pineapples • Sesame oil • Sugar • 5 1/3oz chopped onions • 1qt veal fond blanc • Garam masala* • 3 1/2oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 1oz Jivara milk chocolate40% • 14oz bean sprouts • Fresh ginger • Soy sauce • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. PEEL THE PINEAPPLES. REMOVE THE DARK SPOTSWITH A SHARP KNIFE TIP. CUT INTO QUARTERS.

2. SAUTÉ ON LOW HEAT WITH SESAME OIL. 3. EMULSIFY THE SAUCE WITH THE CHOCOLATE BY BOILING GENTLY.

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* Traditional spice mix from Northern India comprised of cinnamon stick, clove, cardamom, cilantro, peppercornsand cumin. It is often sold as a prepackaged blend and can be found in many western supermarkets.

Peel the pineapples and remove the dark spots with a

sharp paring knife.

Cut into quarters, lengthwise. Remove the hard center

and reserve for later, cut the rest into slices 2/3 inch

thick. Combine the centers and the remaining

pineapple and liquefy to make a fresh pineapple juice

that we will use in the sauce preparation.

Caramelize the pineapple slices in a pan with

the sesame oil and a pinch of sugar.

Set aside.

Brown the onions and deglaze with the veal stock.

Add the garam masala to taste and reduce by about

half.

Sear the filets in oil, salt and pepper them and

4. COOK THE FILETS UNTIL JUST PINK. 5. BROCHETTE ASSEMBLY.

TO SERVEJust before serving time, skewer the slices of filet and caramelized

pineapple onto bamboo skewers.

Arrange a bed of wok-fried bean sprouts onto the plates and top with

the brochettes. Copiously coat with the sauce and serve immediately.

Do not hesitate to furnish a sauceboat with this dish, as the sauce

is usually very well received.

For accompaniment: “fegh” style, steamed Basmati rice goes perfectly.

A magnificent voyage in which everything combines and harmonizes

together seamlessly. Enjoy!

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recuperate the juices by deglazing with the liquefied

pineapple juice. Cook the filets until just pink.

When the stock is reduced and well perfumed,

withdraw a small part to emulsify with the chocolate.

Combine with the rest of the sauce and blend with a

handheld blender for a few seconds to give it a velvety,

uniform texture.

Place the filets in the sauce and simmer for

approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

Sauté the bean sprouts on very high heat, in a wok or

frying pan, with the sesame oil and spices. Set aside.

Cut the filets just before serving. Keep the sauce hot.

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FOR8-10 ENTH

USIAST

SOF PORK KNUCKLE AND THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE

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SYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORKKNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATEAND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLESWe are usually more accustomed to seeing

it in conical form, topped with a small

protruding bone. But how would the pig have

been able to walk with that under its legs?

This is actually a bit of mise en scène, and not very

faithful at that—that’s the most we can say

about it.

A pork knuckle actually has nothing close to this

shape, and this size even less so, unless we are

talking about a 3 month old piglet.

It is these pork knuckles that give Sylvain

Vergnes, my friend in gastronomy and otherwise,

a perpetual migraine. He is the butcher in

Tournon-sur-Rhone, and they don’t make them

like him anymore. He is a purist—passionate,

creative, generous, and, despite being over fifty,

his eyes light up when he speaks of his job,

his life. He is one of those charcutiers who

receives whole pigs at the door, only to transform

them into dozens of preparations made

magnificent by his hands to be presented

at the counter.

Sausages, hams, godiveaux (forcemeat) from

l’Ardèche, his native land, galantines, their jelly

deliciously tender and amber-colored,

and many others.

It is at Sylvain’s, by the way, that I bought

the pork knuckles and plates of spare ribs.

It would take way too long, funny as it may be,

to recount Sylvain’s one man show as soon

as I started talking to him about those cuts

“made for dogs today—have you seen clients

that actually want them these days?” Evidently

not, when one sees those who write books…

they tell them, “buy 6 côtes de boeuf, or 6

tournedos, 3 filets mignons, or a bavette…”

What do these cooks do with the rest

of the animal? Do theirs only have these cuts?

“Fred, here are some delicious pieces, but they

go virtually untouched these days.”

As luck would have it, the pig was hanging fresh,

and Sylvain asked, “where should I cut your

pork knuckles? Do you want them here? Or here,

a bit higher up?”

I’ll spare you the rib episode, another great

moment!

I went to pay, but he responded, “are you

serious? Paying for a dog’s meat? I’ll see you later,

Fred,” he said. And here we were, on our way

back with Sébastien, our hearts lightened with

these wonderful slices of life.

Our pork knuckles would then simply have

the shape that Mother Nature gave them.

Plump, generous, and, most importantly,

wrapped in their skin, which would become

one of the best parts—even if it has (alas)

disappeared from today’s knuckles, sold trimmed

and with the fat removed, as Sylvain explained

to us. I decided to embark on an adventure

to prepare it. I love grains: oats, wheat,

bulgur, etc.

We were returning, Sébastien and I, this past

July, from Lemps, a small village close to mine.

I actually lived there in a beautiful, very small

and very old house. Renier, Marion and Youri

Lasance also live near there. They make Picodon

cheeses—we’ll get back to them later—and there

is also an Ardèche guinea fowl farm.

I had an appointment to chose a “Cannes

festival” type guinea fowl, worthy of posing

for our photo. On the way back to Sécheras,

my village, the wheat fields, shimmering gold

in color, made me stop the car. Sébastien

hastened to pick a few ears and took advantage

of the occasion to run towards a fresh hay bale

to take a handful. With the pork knuckles asleep

in the fridge, the wheat and the hay wonderfully

fragrant, I began to cook… in the car!

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This dish is extremely easy to make, and thus retains

its origins well.

Wrap each pork knuckle in gauze or a cotton cloth

and tie with string to close. This way the meat will

retain its shape and not come undone.

Place in a large pot and cover with water.

Heat slowly. The preparation should only simmer,

never boil, for between 2 1/2 to 3 hours depending

on the meat. When the pork knuckles are soft

to the touch, remove and drain.

Cover the bottom of a Dutch oven with the hay.

Distribute the ears of wheat and wheat spelt evenly

and top with the pork knuckles.

Surround with all the vegetables, add the white wine

and cover with the veal stock.

Start to cook.

PREPARATION OF THE DISH

4 butcher’s pork knuckles in brine • 20 very dry ears of wheat • 1 bunch very dry hay • 3 1/2oz toasted spelt wheat • 2 red onions • 8 large shallots • 3 carrots cut into segments • 1/2 celeriac, cubed • 4 gold or jaune boule d’or turnips, halved • 4 leeks (white part only), halved • 8 small Charlotte potatoes • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • 1 1/2 to 2qt veal stock • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 7-8 3/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70%

1. WRAP THE PORK KNUCKLES IN A COTTON CLOTH AND TIE THEM CLOSED.

2. RINSE THE HAY WITH WATER AND PLACE AT THE BASE OF A DUTCH OVEN. PUT THE PORKKNUCKLES ON TOP FOLLOWED BY THE VEGETABLES,GRILLED EARS OF WHEAT AND TOASTED SPELT WHEAT.COVER WITH WATER AND SEASON. COOK VERY SLOWLYFOR 2 1/2 TO 3 HOURS.

3. SKIM DURING THE PREPARATION EVERY 15-20 MINUTES. REMOVE THE CLOTH FROM THE PORK KNUCKLE AND SET ASIDE. TAKE OUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF STOCK TO THICKEN WITH THE CHOCOLATE. RETURN THE PORKKNUCKLE TO THE DUTCH OVEN AND COVER WITH THE CHOCOLATE-STOCK EMULSION. BOIL LIGHTLY UNTIL THE STOCK ACQUIRES AN UNCTUOUS CONSISTENCY.

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It is important to skim as many times as necessary

as we will be using the juices, just as they are,

to finish the dish.

Remove the pork knuckles and reduce the stock until

the flavor is sufficiently strong, but not overly

so because the flavors of gelatin and skin would be

too pronounced.

Set aside a small part of the perfumed juices

to emulsify with the chocolate.

Blend for a few seconds to ensure a perfect, creamy

sauce. Return to the Dutch oven with the pork

knuckles, without the gauze or cloth, and boil lightly

for 20 minutes while regularly basting the meat with

sauce so that it forms a kind of lacquer and does not

dry out. Salt if necessary, an unlikely event, and season

with pepper.

TO SERVEThe chef’s work is practically done now, but not the maître d’s! The Dutch oven preparation is always highly

appreciated by the client. It is reassuring in the sense that we have the feeling they cooked it specifically for us!

Halve and de-bone the pork knuckles while still “trembling” and releasing the aromas of the chocolate fondant.

Place at the center of the plate and surround with the vegetables in a harmonious way.

For sensory pleasure, cover with the almost mahogany sauce and decorate by opposing two ears of wheat on each

plate and crown with a few blades of hay for a fun touch.

Upon arrival of the dish or Dutch oven, everyone is dumbfounded. The aroma of this dish is disconcerting,

and surprises the guests. Questions are asked! They all qualify it in their own words but everyone unknowingly

recognizes the flavor of the hay since it is such a familiar smell.

A nostalgic moment filled with memories of childhood: the hot chocolate, the wheat flakes with milk, the crepes…

this dish always triggers memories of that sort for me… and you?

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RECIPE FOR 8-10 VISITO

RS, WITH BRESSOPHILE TENDENCIES

SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHELROASTED ON THE BONE, SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF PASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVESOf all of the regions in France, there are a few

—rare ones at that—that we know well without

being particularly good at geography… which

is my case! Without ever having gone there,

we nonetheless have the impression, through

its inhabitants, of knowing the region by heart.

When a gourmet thinks of Bresse, it is not

the beautiful half-timbered houses or the

wonderfully perfect red brick and golden stone

architecture that come to mind, but other things

altogether…

Capon, poularde, squab, chicken, duck,

mallard… these often constitute the “geographic”

vocabulary and knowledge of a gourmet as soon

as someone mentions Bresse.

I was of course forgetting Georges Blanc and

his sons, at the helm of their magnificent

restaurant, a temple of everything beautiful

and good. We sometimes hear jokingly, “Bresse

is near Blanc, right?”

The meat of these birds is remarkable. It is tasty

and just firm to the bite. One must be

a “bressophile*” to appreciate the texture,

so different from that of their farm-raised

cousins. Immobilized, allowed to eat only grains,

only to die without having seen the light of day,

it is logical that their meat would be white,

devoid of extra muscles, and therefore soft.

But it would seem that people like it!

Unlike its friend, the capon, the Bresse squab

does not see spruce. Its meat is a light carmine

color, its succulent flavor beyond words—in

short, a delight.

This recipe gives the squab a delicious flavor.

Cooked on the bone, it is firm but very flavorful.

The mild bitterness of the endives, sweetened by

the creamy sauce—and, yes, we are in Bresse—

thickened with chocolate just before serving,

it is simply divine.

A wonderful classic that has hardly been

revisited.

Here, we are speaking not of extravagant flavors,

but rather well of a dish inspired by what

Auguste Escoffier could make at the super

famous Savoy hotel in London, where he

presided over the kitchens.

I actually had the wonderful opportunity to cook

at HIS burners, still in service, and to present my

chocolate cuisine to curious Londoners during a

gala dinner.

* Another word I have invented that is not yet in the dictionary…

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Wash and halve the endives.

In a frying pan, sauté the endives until nicely brown,

add the vegetables, season and simmer for a few

minutes.

Deglaze with the white wine then add the brown duck

stock. Simmer on low heat or in the oven. Adjust

the seasoning.

Keep hot for service or refrigerate for the mise en place.

THE BRAISED ENDIVES THE PUFF PASTRY BASES

15 endives • Fresh butter • 5 1/3oz carrots in brunoise • 3 1/2oz sliced onion • 1qt brown duck stock • 2/3 cup semi-sweet white wine • Fine salt and freshly ground pepper 2 1/5 lbs puff pastry dough (See page 284) • Egg wash

1. BRAISE THE ENDIVES ON LOW HEAT TO COLOR THEMSLOWLY SO THEY REMAIN VERY FLAVORFUL.

2. BRAISED ENDIVES.

3. STACK SEVERAL LAYERS OF PUFF PASTRY DOUGH,1/8 INCH THICK, ON TOP OF EACH OTHER, BRUSHINGEACH SHEET MODERATELY WITH EGG BEFORETOPPING WITH ANOTHER SHEET. ONCE THE 8 LAYERSARE STACKED, REFRIGERATE BEFORE CUTTING.

4. THE PUFF PASTRY DOUGH “BAR” IS REFRIGERATED.CUT INTO SLICES OF APPROXIMATELY 3/16 INCH THICKAND PLACE THEM FLAT ON A NON-STICK TRAY.

5. BAKE WITHOUT BRUSHING IN A HOT OVEN AT 200-210ºC/392-410ºF UNTIL GOLDEN BROWN.

Prepare homemade puff pastry dough or buy pre-

prepared dough in sheets, making sure it was made

with butter.

Roll out the very cold dough to a thickness

of 1/8 inch.

Stretch the dough out to a sufficient size in order to be

able to cut 4 strips 8 inches long and 3 1/8 inches

wide.

Brush the strips moderately with egg and stack them

on top of each other. Refrigerate for approximately

30 minutes and brush the top surface of the dough

“bar” before cutting in half.

Stack again to obtain 8 layers of dough.

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For greater ease, freeze them all, or, time not

permitting, refrigerate well.

With a thin, sharp knife cut into slices approximately

3/16 inch thick.

Place the slices flat onto baking paper and bake at

180ºC/356ºF.

It is interesting to watch how the dough sheets

develop when baked sideways, instead of upright.

These puff pastry bases are a classic among tea pastries

in France. They are traditionally baked until well

brown, glazed with sugar in a hot oven and stuck

together with a raspberry compote, known among

pastry chefs as “framboise pépins” (raspberry nuggets).

These sandwiches have a very gourmand allure to

them, something that reminds me of my apprentice

days spent at Auer, in Nice.

1 cup squab stock (See page 284) • 2 tbsp whipping cream • 1 1/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Salt and freshly groundpepper

6. AFTER PASSING THE SQUABS OVER A FLAME,REMOVE THE LEGS AND MAKE 3 OR 4 INCISIONS INEACH BREAST.

7. SEAR THE SQUAB BREASTS ON HIGH HEAT ANDBAKE AT 150ºC/302ºF UNTIL THE INNER TEMPERATUREIS 50-52ºC/122-126ºF. THE MEAT SHOULD BEPERFECTLY ROSE COLORED AND COOKED.

8. DE-BONE THE LEGS BUT LEAVE THE DRUMSTICK.SEASON AND ROLL UP THE MEAT FROM THE THIGHS,THEN WRAP WITH PLASTIC WRAP AND TIE FIRMLY.COOK FOR A FEW MINUTES IN GENTLY BOILING WATER.LET COOL, REMOVE THE PLASTIC WRAP ANDREFRIGERATE.

AND NOW FOR THE SQUAB SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

5 beautiful Bresse squab • Butter • Oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Run the squabs over a flame to eliminate any feathers

or fuzz that still remain.

De-bone to remove only the legs and, with a sharp

blade, make 3 or 4 incisions in each breast.

Refrigerate the legs.

In a very hot pan, sear the very cold squabs in butter

and oil until beautifully golden.

Combine the cream with the squab stock and boil.

Emulsify the chocolate with a small part of the mixture

first, then add in the rest. Reduce for a few moments,

if necessary, and adjust the seasoning.

The sauce should be velvety but not overly thick.

Keep in the bain-marie until service.

TO SERVEArrange a bed of braised endives onto hot plates.

Add a puff pastry base and top with the pink breasts

and roasted legs. Decorate the plate with a few ribbons

of squab-chocolate sauce and accompany with

a sauceboat for the diner as well.

“Enkelt & Perfekt”, or rather “Simple & Perfect”,

as my loyal friend Eyvind Hellstrøm would say, chef

of one of the best restaurants in Scandinavia, as well

as the most famous, Bagatelle in Oslo.

Enkelt & Perfekt is the title of one of his culinary

works, a great success of simplicity!

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Sear only on the skin side of the breasts,

not too much, not too little.

Set aside to finish upon order.

For the legs, de-bone all but the drumstick.

Season and roll up the meat from the thighs,

then wrap with plastic wrap and tie firmly. Cook

for a few minutes in gently boiling water. Let cool,

remove the plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Season and bake at 150ºC/302ºF for approximately

15 to 20 minutes.

Upon order, about thirty minutes before serving,

roast the seared squab breasts in the oven

at 150ºC/302ºF.

For perfect doneness, using a thermometer check that

the temperature at the center reaches a maximum

of 50-52ºC/122-126ºF. Sear the poached legs until

golden brown.

Remove from the oven, wait 4 or 5 minutes and

delicately separate the breasts. Serve immediately.

THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN CALCULATED TO SERVE

8-10 DINNERGUESTS

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS ANDPISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATEALMOST BÉARNAISEClearly, the “duck” family has inspired us!

Is it because of its good cholesterol?

It is simply because of the elegant flavors it offers

in its different congeners.

Whether in game birds or fowl, their very varied

realms of life have a direct and remarkable effect

on their meat and their flavor.

With a texture that is a bit more tender and

supple than that of a fleshier duck, the canette*

invites delicacy.

This recipe allows us to discover the sweetness

of canette, enhanced by an amazing sauce:

a chocolate almost-béarnaise.

I am very sensitive about the balance of this dish.

Despite the very noticeable flavor contrasts, they

are all in half-tones and complement each other

marvelously. The sweet and sour notes evoke

duck a l’orange.

A presentation that is not only aesthetic and

original, but also one that permits structured

and delightful tasting.

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* Translator’s note: canette is a young female duck.

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First, braise the canette legs in a Dutch oven.

Sear over high heat with a little oil, add salt and

pepper and cover with water.

Cook for approximately 1 hour, covered on low heat.

Add more water if necessary. Cool and shred the meat

while removing any cartilage, small bones or pieces

of fat. Set aside.

Wash and pit the fresh apricots. Cut the fresh

and dried apricots into small pieces.

In a pan, cook the sugar by itself until just golden

and deglaze with the vinegar. Add the fruits and

simmer for a few minutes until it acquires the texture

of compote, remove from heat and let cool.

Mix together the ground pistachios and canette meat,

followed by the cooled fruit compote. Season.

Cook the cannelloni “al dente” in salted water. Drain

correctly and, using a pastry bag, fill them with

the sweet and sour apricot compote. Cover with

plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Reheat before serving.

CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS ROASTED CANETTE FILETS

10 dry cannelloni • 10 1/2oz fresh Bergeron apricots • 1 3/4oz dried apricots • 2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp sherry vinegar • Salt andfreshly ground pepper • Ground pistachios • 2 canette legs • Cooking oil 5 canette filets • Oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper

3. FILL THE CANNELLONI USING A PASTRY BAG.

4. KEEP THE ENDS OF THE CANNELLONI CLEAN.

1. PREPARE THE FILLING FOR THE CANNELLONI BYMIXING THE DUCK MEAT WITH THE GROUNDPISTACHIOS.

2. ADD THE SWEET AND SOUR COMPOTE OF FRESHAND DRIED APRICOTS. SEASON.

With the tip of a very sharp knife, score the skin

of the filets in a grid pattern.

Set aside for preparation until just before serving.

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7oz shucked green peas • 1 lump butter • 2/5 cup vegetablestock • Salt and freshly ground pepper

TO SERVECut the cannelloni into thirds and reheat in a

microwave or couscoussier.

Sear and cook the canette filets until pink inside.

With a probe thermometer, check that the inner

temperature is 50ºC/122ºF.

Let the meat stand for a few moments before thinly

slicing.

Wrap each cannelloni piece with a pink slice of duck

and pierce with a small wooden skewer.

Assemble 3 cannelloni segments on the plate, serve

with the béarnaise sauce and 2 or 3 spoonfuls

of buttered peas.

5. PREPARE THE REDUCTION FOR THE BÉARNAISESAUCE WITH CHOCOLATE, SHALLOTS, PEPPER ANDPORT.

6. STRAIN THE REDUCTION THROUGH A CHINOIS AND ADD THE COLD EGG YOLKS. BEGIN COOKING ON LOW HEAT.

7. WHEN THE MIXTURE BEGINS TO THICKEN ANDREACHES 79-82ºC/174-180ºF ON THE THERMOMETER,WHISK VIGOROUSLY FOR A PERFECTLY COAGULATED,UNIFORM MIXTURE.

8. ADD THE MELTED CHOCOLATE AND CONTINUEWHISKING. SERVE IMMEDIATELY, CREAMY ANDSUPPLE.

LIKE A BÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE TENDER GREEN PEAS

2oz shallots • 3/4 cup apricot vinegar • 7/8 cup 20 yr tawny Port • 1/6oz Sarawak pepper • 7oz duck stock • 1/5 cup whippingcream • 1 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 3/4oz egg yolks • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cook the chopped shallots with the vinegar, port

and pepper.

Reduce slowly and strain through a chinois to obtain

5 1/3oz of liquid. Add the duck stock and reduce

again for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the couverture and pour in the

boiled cream. Emulsify correctly and keep hot until

Boil the peas in salted water.

Cool them in cold water and peel.

Heat the butter and vegetable stock in a pan and

add the peas.

Let simmer until a glaze forms.

Adjust the seasoning.

Keep hot until serving.

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serving the sauce.

Add the egg yolks to the liquid, which should not be

too hot (60ºC/140ºF max) and whisk vigorously

on low heat or in a bain-marie until the texture

becomes creamy and supple. Follow by thickening

with the hot Araguani ganache.

Adjust seasoning and serve immediately.

FOR 8-10 ROOMMATE

SBRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARERIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOMThis is a cut of the animal I didn’t know before.

If I hadn’t visited Quebec, I would never have

discovered it, much less conceived of this dish.

I went to eat at Léméac, a charming brasserie

with very contemporary décor, along with Marc

Decank, a chef and friend who, upon arriving

from his native Belgium, created La Chronique

in Montreal, today one of the city’s very sought

after restaurants.

It is Marc, incidentally, who opened his heart

and his kitchen, in which I, with the help of his

wonderful team, prepared a four-dinner

chocolate adventure he wanted to offer his

clients.

A complete success: we were fully booked each

time before I arrived. I was very stressed, but

happy.

At Léméac, then, when Marc told me “I’ll order

this for you,” I went along with it.

Expectant, I saw my plate arrived with beautiful

presentation, but this very unusual looking meat

that reminded me of Aztec sculptures. I’d never

seen this in my life!

Close up, these spare ribs spoke even louder

to me. How did they produce this completely

square meat, and what’s more, skewered end

to end by this bone, so geometrically smooth

and flat?

Marc, help me understand this, please! “You’ve

never seen this?” he said.

As it happens, it was nothing complicated in

and of itself. They were flat cut ribs, braised a bit

like pot au feu. “It’s very good, and just a little

bit gelatinous,” said Olivier, his assistant and

son-in-law, a charming guy and also a wonderful

chef. In Quebec, they make pork spare ribs

lacquered in maple syrup: c’est s’pâer!

Actually, it all happens by itself, Marc tells me.

You ask the butcher to cut the bones very cleanly.

You trim the meat to square it off nicely and strip

the ends of the bones. You clean the bones well

by scraping them… and brown the tops well.

You then simmer for two hours, no stress…

that’s Marc’s character. And you finish it however

you like: glazed with juice, wine, or why not

chocolate?

That’s it, once again an idea is born.

The experiments begin—I had dreamt of

a coffee dish, and here it is.

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Cut 10 spare ribs, or ask the butcher to do it.

Then follow Marc’s instructions on the previous page.

In a large pot, combine the rest of the ingredients,

place the seared ribs on top and cover with water.

Plug the orifices of the marrowbones with thick carrot

slices, on both sides, and tie them.

Cook slowly for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, more or less.

Skim the fat from time to time while cooking.

The meat should be soft to the touch and shrinking

on the bone.

PREPARATION OF THE SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK THE CARROT JULIENNE

Slab of 8-10 beef spare ribs, crosscut • 2 marrowbones • 1 chopped onion • 2 coarsely chopped carrots • 1 leek (green part) • 2 coarsely chopped turnips • 1 bottle Corona beer • Salt and black peppercorns

17 1/2oz julienned carrots • 10 chives (white part) • Butter• Vegetable stock or water • Cardamom seeds • Salt andfreshly ground pepper

1. SEAR THE SLAB OF RIBS ON BOTH SIDES.

2. PREPARE THE RIBS AND TIE THEM.3. COOK THE RIBS SLOWLY IN THE GENTLY BOILINGSTOCK. 4. JULIENNED CARROTS “AL DENTE”.

In a pan, sweat the carrots, chives and cardamom

in butter and vegetable stock.

Cover with a little stock, or water in its absence,

stir constantly on high heat to evaporate the liquid

and glaze the carrots.

When finished, the carrots should be lightly

“al dente”. Keep hot.

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Remove the meat and marrowbones. Set aside until

just before serving.

Strain the stock and slowly reduce by half.

Set the beef stock aside for use with the chocolate-

coffee sauce.

You can opt to cook the ribs in the stock beforehand and finish their preparation in the sauce for each service.

5. ADD THE GROUND COFFEE AND INFUSE FOR A FEWMOMENTS BEFORE STRAINING THROUGH AN ETAMINECHINOIS.

6. BEGIN THE CHOCOLATE EMULSION WITH THECOFFEE STOCK.

7. WHISK VIGOROUSLY FOR AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUSTEXTURE.

THE CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE

2 1/8 cups beef stock • 1 1/4oz coarsely ground coffee beans • 1 pico de pájaro pepper • Bone marrow • 1 3/8 tbsp molasses • 1 orange zest • Cardamom seeds • 2 3/4oz Xocopili chocolate

Heat the reduced beef stock to just before boiling.

Add the coffee, cardamom and pepper, stir and infuse

while covered for 5 to 6 minutes.

Strain through an etamine chinois.

Add the molasses and bone marrow.

Blend for a few seconds with the handheld blender

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for a perfectly smooth sauce.

Pour over the ribs and cook on very low heat for

20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Baste the ribs to avoid drying, and above all so they

end up caramelized.

TO SERVEElegantly arrange the julienned carrots on hot plates, top with the ribs and

cover with the chocolate and coffee sauce. A distinct air of Mexico suddenly

permeates the house!

8. POUR THE COFFEE SAUCE OVER THE RIBS ANDSIMMER VERY GENTLY.

FOR 8-10 LO

VERSOF TRADITION

ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED INPANNEQUETS AND LACQUEREDWITH CHOCOLATE, BRAISEDCELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACHAND WILD MUSHROOMSI couldn’t write a book on chocolate cuisine

without paying my dues to “our fathers,

the pioneers of French cuisine.”

A rather audacious challenge for me, given that

I’m not a savory chef, or if I am it is more

as a passion than a profession. I would only

know how to risk stopping just short, with

foundations that are only half right, after much

procrastination. For example: “so what are we

going to make?”

After much reading, I decided to trust in the

talent of Joël Robuchon, also one of the fathers

of good eating, French style. I admit his recipe

spoke to me on multiple levels.

First, the idea of small parcels after cooking

really appealed to me; the sauce preparation

seemed equally remarkable, with a richness

that would delight Escoffier or Carême; and

I’m convinced, ultimately, that with his ethics

of camaraderie and extreme perfectionism,

he sorted through all of his experiments and kept

only what seemed to be the best. These are all

of the reasons for which I kept my eyes fixated

on the Larousse Gastronomique, the gourmet

bible, and for which I scrupulously followed

the recipe on page 619 of my Larousse (1996

edition).

However, you will forgive me, Mr. Robuchon,

for having the audacity, maybe, to add chocolate

to a recipe that didn’t originally have it.

I admit having slightly “fused” certain recipes,

inspired nonetheless by the same game and seen

by various great chefs. This recipe is the “hare

royale of senator Couteau, Poitevine style.” It was

the first time I embarked on a dish of this type,

quite elaborate with very well established rules.

In the end, it is not so difficult; but certainly,

when these little parcels arrive at the table, still

marked by the string, all lacquered with purple

sauce and releasing such complex yet easy

to grasp aromas, I tell myself it won’t be the last

time I make it… Royale!

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PREPARING THE HARE À LA ROYALE

1 good young hare (3-6 months) • 17 1/2oz pork caul • 10 slices pork fat • 3 bottles red wine • 10 peeled garlic cloves • 1 large carrot, coarsely chopped • 1 large onion, chopped • 2/5 cup good cognac• 10 peeled shallots • 6 juniper berries • 4 pinches wild thyme • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 1 bunch aromatic herbs • 2 2/3 tbsp whipping cream • 4 2/5oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Celeriac •Fresh spinach • Wild mushrooms

1. COVER EACH PIECE OF HARE WITH A SLICE OF PORKFAT, WRAP IN A PIECE OF CAUL AND TIE.

2. BRAISED HARE À LA ROYALE.

3. BLEND TOGETHER THE LIVERS, KIDNEYS, HEART,SHALLOTS AND GARLIC UNTIL YOU HAVE AHOMOGENOUS PUREE. REFRIGERATE.

4. ADD THE SKIMMED COOKING JUICES.

5. HEAT OVER LOW HEAT TO COAGULATE THE BLOODAND FOLLOW WITH A GRADUAL DECANTATION OF THEPREPARATION.

6. REMOVE THE JUS AND STRAIN THROUGH ANETAMINE.

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2

1

3

4 5

Soak the caul.

Pour the red wine into a large pot, boil, flambé and set

aside.

In a food processor, finely blend 5 garlic cloves,

the shallots, and the liver, heart and kidneys

of the hare.

Refrigerate this “puree” in a sealed container.

Grind the juniper berries.

Season the morsels of hare with the salt, pepper,

thyme and juniper.

Wrap each morsel with a thin slice of pork fat and

a piece of caul and tie them.

In a large pot, combine the coarsely chopped onions

and carrots, the aromatic herbs, the shallots and the

5 remaining garlic cloves.

Top with the tied hare morsels, cover with the cooled

red wine and lightly season.

Cover and bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF for precisely

6 hours… and yes, it’s worth the wait. Season.

Afterwards, and as soon as possible, remove the largest

bones from the morsels of hare. Remove the shallots

and garlic cloves from the sauce.

Place the pannequets, or stuffed “crêpes” of hare in

7. TO ENHANCE OUR DISH, A FEW DISCS OF BRAISEDCELERIAC AND…

8. …A FEW SEASONAL MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTERWITH FRESH SPINACH LEAVES.

TO SERVETraditionally, this dish is served “à l’anglaise”, or directly at the table.

It’s up to you. Each morsel of hare is placed onto a braised celery disc,

surrounded by lightly sautéed seasonal mushrooms and fresh spinach

leaves.

Voilà, a dish made as an homage to our culinary heritage: savor it

with respect!

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another pot with the shallots and garlic. Strain

the liquid through a chinois and press firmly to extract

the maximum amount of juices, a great source

of flavor!

Place gauze on the surface of the liquid and cool

quickly over ice or in the cold storage room.

The gauze allows for easy removal of the fat.

Put the “puree” of hare offal with shallots and garlic

in a salad bowl.

Add a small amount of the skimmed jus and blend

with a handheld blender.

Repeat the operation and combine everything

in the pot with the jus.

Cook on low heat for approximately 1 hour, and strain

through a chinois. Reduce this liquid to about

2-2 1/2 cups. When it acquires the correct consistency

and flavor, add the cognac.

Add the whipping cream and emulsify with

the chocolate.

Salt to taste and pour over the hare. Cook on low heat

for about 10 minutes so that the sauce envelops

the meat.

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FOR 8-10 ENTH

USIAST

SOF RABBIT AND OTHER DELICACIES

STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBITTRUFFLED WITH CACAO NIBS,CRISP BABY VEGETABLES ANDROSEMARY RABBIT JUSEMUSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATEFarming of this leporide began in the 17th

century. Its meat is a tender pink, and white after

cooking.

It is its low fat content that makes it go so well

with chocolate.

I really like rabbit, but it is a rarity at my table

for some reason.

My desire was so great that I couldn’t resist

imagining it with chocolate. Sébastien and I have

called it “dressed in chocolate”, but its light

and discreet flavor does not do well with such

competition in terms of taste. We ended up

opting for—and it’s curious given our initial

ideas—a “prudent” preparation. Sébastien thus

felt sufficiently inspired to attempt a small

“technical feat”, or so he said: “it’s been a long

time since I tried this.” Here he was, immersing

himself once again in his cookbooks, in my

pastry books, to say nothing yet of de-boning.

I heard the boning knife being sharpened. “Here

we go, I’m getting to it.” Suddenly, I heard loud

cries coming from the kitchen while I prepared

other recipes in the office. After a few minutes—

short ones, actually—I heard a triumphant

“yes!”. Bone in hand, Sébastien was happy,

one could say almost proud, and with reason.

Like riding a bike or swimming, this is

something you don’t forget. As for me, I mused

with him on different ways to prepare this very

appetizing meat. We were tempted by truffles,

but we had already used them… so why not,

we thought, truffled with cacao beans!

That was the first idea; the second, a good jus,

maybe a sort of rabbit base demi-glace thickened

with chocolate? And so the trials began, as usual:

our little kitchen began bubbling with life.

Different types of filling, with or without

chocolate, half and half, we tried everything.

We would end up with a delicate, soft foie filling,

truffled with cacao nibs: not too bitter but

distinctive in flavor.

As for the demi-glace, it is emulsified just before

serving with chocolate oil and surrounded

with tender, golden Ratte potatoes. In this dish,

the chocolate is mild, yet very present and long

on the palate; and it allows our rabbit friend

to “exist” with its delicacy.

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Using a boning knife, very delicately de-bone

the saddles, taking care to not cut the skin so that

when cooked they retain a beautiful, round shape.

Reserve the bones for the stock.

Repeat the process for the legs, without the need

for some much precaution.

In a food processor for grinding, coarsely grind

the rabbit livers with the meat, nibs and rosemary.

Season. Quickly blanch the spinach and drain

on paper towels.

Spread the de-boned saddles over plastic.

Cover the center with blanched spinach leaves.

Spoon a generous quantity of filling on top.

Add salt and pepper. Roll the saddles so they close

completely, wrap them in plastic wrap and tie closed.

To maintain the round form, use a bamboo placemat

to roll the saddles, tie as shown in the photograph

and cook in gently boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes.

Using a probe thermometer, make sure the inner

THE RABBIT AND FILLING

4 saddles of rabbit • 2 rabbit legs • 7oz rabbit liver • 5 2/3oz rabbit meat • 1 3/5oz cacao nibs • 1 sprig rosemary • 5 1/3oz fresh spinach leaves • Salt and pepper

1. ARRANGE THE SPINACH LEAVES.

2. ADD THE FILLING.

3. ROLL.

4. CLOSE WELL.

5. TIE WITH A STRING.

6. ROASTED SADDLE OF RABBIT.

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6

temperature does not exceed a maximum

of 48-50ºC/118-122ºF. This part of the preparation

can be done earlier, for the mise en place.

At serving time, sauté the saddles in butter

and oil until they are well browned on the surface and

hot at the center (check with the probe 58-60ºC/

136-140ºF).

7. SAUTÉED RATTES POTATOES.

THE GARNISH RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY

1 3/4 lbs Rattes potatoes • 5 1/3oz snow peas • 10 small peeledshallots • 1 carrot, julienned • Salt and freshly ground pepper •2/5 cup vegetable stock • 1 lump butter • Oil

Bones of saddle and legs • Olive oil • 1 coarsely chopped carrot • 1 peeled, charred onion • 2 leeks (green part) in slices • 1 celerystalk, cubed • 1 small bunch aromatic herbs • 1 sprig rosemary • 1 unpeeled garlic clove • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • Salt andfreshly ground pepper • KKO oil (See page 284)

Wash the potatoes and scrub them with salt.

Boil them gently in salted water.

Boil the snow peas in salted water until “al dente”,

and drain.

Sauté the potatoes and shallots in clarified butter

and oil.

When they become soft, stop the cooking.

At serving time, place a lump of butter and a little

stock in a frying pan; add the snow peas and the raw,

julienned carrot, which should also remain “al dente”.

For assembly, combine the sautéed potatoes and

shallots with the rest of the vegetables and adjust

the seasoning.

Cut the rabbit bones as thinly as possible.

With a little oil, fry them until they are sufficiently

brown.

In a pot, combine the vegetables, herbs and bones.

Add about 1/3 of the white wine and sweat for

15 minutes.

Add the rest of the wine and cover with water.

Reduce on very low heat for 3 hours, skimming from

time to time, when necessary.

TO SERVEBoth the vegetables and the rabbit demi-glace emulsion with chocolate are hot

(50ºC/122ºF).

Once cooked, cut the saddles into slices approximately 5/8 inch thick.

Elegantly arrange the vegetables on the plate and top with the slices of truffled saddle.

Encircle with a generous ribbon of rabbit sauce with chocolate and rosemary.

It’s good, easy to understand, reassuring but still generous in an unknown, new flavor:

the toasted cacao nibs.

A moment of pure, almost simple pleasure… and of chocolate all the same!

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Strain through a chinois, then a fine etamine.

Reduce again until it acquires the syrupy texture

of a demi-glace.

Set aside until ready to emulsify with the chocolate oil.

Before serving the jus, blend with a handheld blender

for a few moments to give it a lustrous, velvety texture.

Adjust the seasoning at this time.

This jus should not be served too hot, in other words

at a maximum of 50-60ºC/122-140ºF.

CHEESES

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT AND CACAO NIBS, CURED WITH WHISKY

PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OF LEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITHWALNUTS AND SAUTÉED, WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORT NUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISHBANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE

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CHEESES231

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TO SPOIL 6

-8 P

EO

PLE

WITH A CAMEMBERT

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITHDRIED FRUIT AND CACAO NIBS,CURED WITH WHISKYIf only the old priest Isigny Sainte Mère could

speak…Ô Sainte Mère! Virgin Saint – Or rather

madame, I should have said, Madame Harel!

It is actually to this woman that we owe

the invention of our beloved Camembert. Legend

has it, after giving shelter to this priest, he repaid

her by telling her the secrets of Brie-making

which she then guarded well and applied

to her own cheeses, thus producing the first,

and very successful Camembert.

Her daughter succeeded her in the nearby town

of Camembert and Napoleon III, during a visit,

christened the cheese with the name it retains

today, as well as starting it off on a marvelous

career!

We must also thank Monsieur Ridel, the inventor

of the small wooden box that allows Camembert

to be shipped. And so the great story begins…

Artisanal Camemberts have become rather scarce

nowadays, but the large dairies still offer

a product of quite acceptable quality.

It was enough just to see and touch this lovely

Isigny Sainte Mère for me to make the choice.

The rind is beautiful, and the texture and flavor

seduced me.

I was inspired to create something with this

cheese via a gift that Isabelle and Hubert – more

“foodie” friends of ours who have a corner bistro

in Tournon – had treated Rika and I to. Hubert

asked me to be free on such and such night,

for something, and so I agreed, though with

some doubt…

The moment arrived and he opened a cheese

that had been brought from Switzerland, which

had a decidedly appealing allure. It was

overwhelmingly aromatic, soaked in so much

black truffle it actually dripped. He then

explained the history of this cheese, of which

this recipe is a summary, but in other terms

and flavors!

The principle is simple: transmit

the desired flavors through a proper aging

process. Here, I substituted the truffle with dried

fruit and cacao nibs. The alcohol, which

was kept secret along with the recipe

for the Swiss cheese, has become whisky.

Being a good Frenchman I couldn’t omit,

in my bag of ideas, this celebrated cheese from

Orne, as famous worldwide as our national flag,

or even more so.

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CAMEMBERT DONE DIFFERENTLY

1 beautiful, fresh Camembert • 1 3/4oz golden raisins, chopped • 1 3/4oz tender, dried apricots • 1 1/4oz finely ground cacao nibs • 1oz whole almonds • 1 1/2 fl oz Chivas Regal whisky • Salt andfreshly ground pepper

1. CHOOSE A RAW MILK CAMEMBERT, NOT OVERLYMATURED, AND HALVE IT SIDEWAYS USING A STRING.

2. TOP THE CENTER WITH THE FILLING OF DRIEDFRUITS AND CACAO NIBS WITH WHISKY. 3. DISTRIBUTE THE FILLING EVENLY.

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2 3

4. COVER WITH THE OTHER HALF OF THE CAMEMBERTAND LEAVE TO MATURE IN A CELLAR.

Cut the Camembert using a string.

Mix together all the other ingredients, chopped

or ground. Add the whisky and season.

Cover the Camembert, leaving a 3/16 inch border free

of filling around the perimeter.

Mature the Camembert in the cellar for between

5 to 10 days, depending on the initial maturity

of the cheese.

When the filling starts to overflow and run into

the border, optimal maturity is near.

TO SERVEConsume with a nice cacao nib bread –why not?– or good rye bread.

Pair it with the same whisky used in the recipe and a bit of ice water, as they do in Scotland, or a vin doux naturel,

or VDN (fortified wine), like aged Maury, or even a Rivesaltes Muscat.

Personally, I prefer the whisky with ice water, like a good Scotsman would: it’s delicious. Yes, quite simply delicious.

For once the fruits that are usually served along side the cheese are actually inside it!

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FOR 8

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LOVE

RS OF GOAT’S CHEESE AND THE ARDÈCHE REGION

PICODON OF REINIER ANDMARION LASANCE OF LEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH WALNUTS AND SAUTÉED,WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPYHAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVESThe few words that I wanted to write to you here

come to me like a love letter, as I prepare

to eternalize them on paper…

A gastronomic love, most certainly, but a

friendship as well, as you will soon understand.

Picodon is a goat cheese.

The two regional appellations, Drôme

and Ardèche, where I live, transform it into

a star among cheeses at the markets.

The maturing process here is a minimum

of twelve days, whereas the Dieulefit is matured

for an entire month, then washed and macerated

in white wine. I must confess, Picodon has

become my fetish cheese at home…

unfortunately not the case for Rika, who doesn’t

like goat cheese.

When I first came to the region in 1988,

I worked in Drôme and lived in “butter”

Ardèche, or Northern Ardèche, as opposed

to Southern Ardèche with its olive trees known

as “oil” Ardèche.

My neighbors are Dutch, lovely people

and always available.

I began to see them frequently after our

respectively long days of work.

Reinier’s heavy labor load of having to coddle,

walk, milk and take care of his 70 little animals

daily certainly seems to be worth the effort.

But it is to Marion that we owe these little

delights, usually sold before she even has

the chance to make them. Their Picodons have

received numerous prizes, the most recent

coming from the in Drôme where, in July 2004,

without any illusions about it, she sent off

samples of her cheeses and happened to win first

prize in both “taste” and “appearance” categories.

Their cheeses are absolutely magical and, when

sautéed, the creaminess becomes unbelievably

similar to that of a crème brûlée.

When I found myself alone in my little house

there I would sometimes organize “Picodon

soirées”, my deep fryer crackling incessantly.

If you happen to pass through Lemps, please,

take the time to taste them, and fill up the trunk

while you’re at it! Their house simply exudes

goodness.

As for the dish, well, after much reflection,

looking at it from all angles as it were, this is

the result, and this is how I like it.

Matured for only a few days, encrusted

with Grenoble walnuts, grilled and stuffed

with toasted walnut ganache.

The “fanciful endives” bring freshness and bitter

notes that are very pleasant.

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THE PREPARED PICODONS

8 to 10 Picodons of Ardèche • 40 whole walnuts • 1/2 cup whipping cream • 3 1/2oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • 2oz whole walnuts, cracked and roasted • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 4 slices cured ham

1. FOR EASIER CUTTING, USE KITCHEN STRING. WRAPTHE STRING AROUND THE CHEESE AND PULL IT TIGHT,WITHOUT STOPPING. THE CHEESE WILL BE PERFECTLYCUT IN HALF.

2. ENCRUST BOTH HALVES OF EACH CHEESE WITHHALVED WALNUTS. FLIP THE CHEESE OVER ON THETABLE AND PRESS LIGHTLY WITH THE PALM OF YOURHAND SO THAT THE WALNUTS ARE EMBEDDED IN THE CHEESE. SET ASIDE IN A COOL PLACE BEFORESAUTÉING.

3. JUST BEFORE SERVING, SEAR THE PICODONS IN A PAN ON LOW HEAT UNTIL THEY BROWN AND FORMA CRISPY CRUST.

1

2 3

4. LET THE CHEESES COOL SLIGHTLY AND FILL THEM WITH THE WALNUT GANACHE.

5. ARRANGE A FEW SLICES OF DRIED HAM FROM THE OVEN AND COVER WITH THE TOP HALF OF THE CHEESE, STILL WARM. SERVE IMMEDIATELY.

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TO SERVESeparate a few endive leaves and cut them lengthwise

with a sharp knife.

Submerge them in water and… surprise! The leaves

curl up and take on a certain air, perhaps of modern

art, or… je ne sais quoi. In any case, they give a nice

touch of style to our little Picodons.

A ribbon of vinaigrette and voila!

The Picodons are sautéed just before serving, of course,

and served simply as they are, just like in Ardèche,

or almost, since this is certainly the first time a Picodon

has ever dressed up for a chocolate soirée!

Using a string, halve the Picodons.

Delicately embed the walnuts, also halved, in the outer

layer of the cheese by pressing with the palm of

your hand. Refrigerate.

Prepare a ganache with the chocolate and cream.

Add the cracked, roasted walnuts, season and leave

to crystallize at room temperature or in

the refrigerator.

Dry the cured ham slices in the oven

at 120-140ºC/248-284ºF. Keep in a dry place.

FOR 8

-10

EN

THU

SIA

STSOF PENICILLIUM ROQUEFORTI AND EXTR

AVA

GANCE

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLEWITH ROQUEFORT NUGGETS,SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISHBANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE,CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTEThis is one of the mothers of all cheeses.

What is certain is that it is one of the oldest

cheeses still known, and eaten, in modern times.

Pliny the Elder already mentioned it in

the 1st century. In the 9th it was one of

Charlemagne’s favorites, but it was in 1411 that

its final consecration occurred when Charles VI

conceded the monopoly on maturing this

treasure to the grateful inhabitants of the little

village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.

In 1926, its success continued when it received

the status of AOC (appellation of controlled

origin).

The spores of penicillium roqueforti, traditionally

taken from moldy rye bread, are responsible

for the superb, blue veins, and more importantly

for the magical, inimitable flavor of Roquefort.

The brand Papillon is one of the few companies

left that still use moldy bread to sow their almost

mythical cheeses.

I adore Roquefort, and it inspires me endlessly.

I have tried it in many chocolate recipes. They

were all very flavorful, though most of the time

one of the flavors dominated the complicity

of the chocolate and cheese. Balance is divine,

but it seemed difficult to achieve.

Render unto Caesar the things which are Caesar’s.

I owe the slightly audacious idea of mixing

Roquefort and chocolate to a friend of mine,

also a pastry chef, Yannick Lefort– the master

of macaroons. Today, with his wife Marie-Odile,

he runs the company Macarons Gourmands at

the gates of Paris.

If I remember correctly, Yannick had made a kind

of tartine with banana, Roquefort and chocolate.

It left an impression on me; it was during

a splendid, gourmand buffet organized

by Valrhona that included an exposition

on chocolate, and which was making its way

through museums.

We found ourselves in the Palais de

la Découverte, in Paris, Yannick with his tartines

and I with my Norway lobster, already having

been captivated by the chocolate savory

combinations.

Thank you, Yannick, for your inspiration.

My career as a pastry chef influenced me to turn

it into a truffle! It would be too difficult for me

to explain the reasons why; and besides,

it’s better if you try it yourself, taste it

and understand how in life there are things that

are difficult to describe or explain, even very

memorable things!

The pleasure is equally terrific if you use normal

sized truffles, served as an hors d’oeuvre,

accompanied by a good port or a Rasteau.

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Boil the milk and the cream together. Prepare a well

emulsified ganache with the chopped or melted

chocolate by gradually adding the very hot liquid.

Keep the temperature at 38-40ºC/100-104ºF.

Add the cold butter in cubes and blend for a few

seconds with a handheld blender.

Break the Roquefort up into nuggets, add to the mixture

and stir carefully to not break them more. Season.

Leave to crystallize at room temperature or in the

cellar for even better results.

When the texture is creamy and manageable with

a pastry bag, form fairly large truffles, or “sausages”

that can later be cut with a knife, which is easier.

IMPORTANT: leave to crystallize overnight in

the refrigerator!

Slice the bread and cut it into small cubes. Coat

with butter, salt and pepper.

ROQUE AND ROLL… THE CHOCOLATE COATING

3/4 cup milk • 3/4 cup whipping cream • 13oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 1/3oz butter • 10 1/2oz Papillon Roquefort • 1 loafcountry bread • Butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 1/5 lbs Araguani chocolate 72% • 5/6 cup grapeseed oil

1. WHEN THE GANACHE IS CORRECTLY EMULSIFIEDAND BLENDED FOR A FEW SECONDS, ADD THE ROQUEFORT NUGGETS AND STIR CAREFULLY TO NOT BREAK THEM. POUR INTO A FLAT TRAY AND LEAVE TO CRYSTALLIZE FOR A FEW HOURS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE.

2. WHEN THE GANACHE HAS CRYSTALLIZED, FORMTRUFFLES ABOUT THE SIZE OF A TEASPOON ANDREFRIGERATE, IDEALLY OVERNIGHT SO THEY HAVE A CHANCE TO PROPERLY HARDEN.

3. COVER THE COLD TRUFFLES WITH THE “CROUTONS”OF TOASTED BREAD AND PRESS FIRMLY WITH YOURFINGERTIPS TO ENSURE THEY REMAIN WELLEMBEDDED IN THE GANACHE. DIP THE MIXTURE IN MELTED CHOCOLATE AT 30-35ºC/86-95ºF.

4. TURN THE TRUFFLE WHEN DIPPING IN THE CHOCOLATE TO GET RID OF AIR BUBBLES.

Melt the chocolate with the oil and cool slightly.

With a wooden skewer, dip the very cold truffles

in the chocolate and drain the excess before placing

on paper.

Serve at room temperature.

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3

4

Bake at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF until they acquire

an intense golden color. Refrigerate.

Wearing plastic food gloves, bread the very cold

truffles with the “croutons”, forcing and mashing them

together well to create a balanced tasting experience.

5. FINISH BY LETTING THE EXCESS CHOCOLATE DRIP OFF.

6. SAUTÉED BANANA.

7. FICOÏDE GLACIALE.

FOR ASSEMBLY

3 very ripe dwarf cavendish bananas • 7oz ficoïde glaciale (iceplant) • Butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper • KKO oil (Seepage 284)

Peel the bananas and cut into beveled “stoppers”.

Sauté with clarified butter. Season.

The ficoïde glaciale salad is served just as it is.

The chocolate spiral is made with our now customary

KKO oil.

An unexpected combination, but one that

is convincing from the first bite.

I recommend that you do not prepare the truffles more

than 4-6 days before service—they keep perfectly

for that amount of time—and wait to apply the

croutons and chocolate bath until the last moment

so they are super crispy!

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243

SWEET DELIGHTS

MONT BLANC CLUB

GIN TONIC

THE BLACK FOREST…IN’

NIPPON

KOUIKARAS ISLAND

THE NEW WORLD

THE MILKY WAY

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270

SWEET DELIGHTS245

246

FOR 8-10 MEMBERSOF THE CLUB

MONT BLANC CLUB The idea to make a sandwich was not

a marketing ploy. When I create a recipe I think

about it, imagine how I would like to eat it,

how I want it to make my mouth water...

During my several trips to Japan, I have often

had the opportunity to enjoy one of my favorite

desserts, the Mont-Blanc, something that

the Japanese are absolutely “otaku”, or wild,

about.

Could it be because I grew up with the chestnut

pastries of Claude Bourguignon of Metz?

As destiny would have it, some 25 years later

I return to my little house nestled in the deep

Ardèche region: the rugged homeland

of the chestnut.

With Paul Bernard-Brêt, my travel companion

for a few years at Valrhona, I came up with the

idea to pair celery with chestnuts. Unfortunately,

my abilities at the time were not sufficient

to materialize the idea. Paul, however,

was already at the top of the establishment,

up there where one intuitively knows when

the truth—the real truth—is presented to him.

And so, in the period that followed, replete

with foolish pride, we presented our bonbon

of Guanaja Lactée with celery: imagine

the surprise in finding a dessert like this in

Tain l’Hermitage!

With time, this extravagance faded, either

misunderstood by our public or just plain

forgotten. Paul, with his affable air, told me,

“Don’t worry, we’ll do it again later, maybe it was

too soon.”

“Later” has arrived: Paul, enjoying his deserved

retirement as grand chocolatier, and I, without

him, fatefully debuting this celery and chocolate

dessert.

I adore this combination. It’s an original way

to interpret “chocolate cuisine”, but also very

reassuring when we finally taste it! And so,

I would like to share it with you here.

It retains its shape because I felt it was imperative

to keep the angel hair that so marked my youth,

and give the dish an appetizing and generous

quality. The assembly of this dessert is pure

gourmand, without embellishment or staging.

In this dessert, the flavors are like colors,

all sweetness and complicity.

An irresistible pairing: to discover or tell about

as soon as possible.

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CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE

1/3oz powdered egg whites • 7oz fresh egg whites • 7oz superfine sugar • 10 1/2oz powdered almonds • 5 1/3oz Caraïbe couverture 66% • 4 2/5oz almond slivers •Confectioner’s sugar

1. COOK THE CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE, MAKING SURE ITREMAINS SOFT, AND CUT INTO SQUARES 2 3/8 INCHESON A SIDE.

2. IN A FOOD PROCESSOR SET FOR GRINDING,COMBINE THE CHESTNUT PASTE AND PUREE WITH THE SOFTENED BUTTER AND BLEND TO GIVE IT A CREAMY, UNIFORM MIXTURE.

3. FOR A VERY SUPPLE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE,PREPARE A PERFECT EMULSION WITH THE WHITECHOCOLATE, CREAM AND FRESH CELERY JUICE.

Mix a small amount of sugar with the powdered egg

whites. Whip the fresh egg whites at moderate speed,

add to the mixture, and continue to gradually add

the rest of the sugar in small amounts. Melt

the Caraïbe couverture at 60-65ºC/140-149ºF.

Carefully add the sifted powders to the egg whites

and, at the last moment add the hot, melted chocolate.

Pour to a thickness of 3/8 inch over a sheet of silicone

paper and sprinkle with almond slivers. Dust

with confectioner’s sugar and bake at

190-200ºC/374-392ºF. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes,

with the steam vent open.

Refrigerate and cut into squares 2 3/8 to 2 3/4 inches

on each side.

Keep in the refrigerator for theor freeze.

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CHESTNUT CREAM AND FRESH CHESTNUTS

8 3/4oz chestnut paste • 4 2/5oz chestnut cream • 2 3/4oz butter

In a food processor set for grinding, mix of all

the ingredients, including the cold, cubed butter,

and blend until it has a uniform texture and all the

butter is incorporated.

The texture should be creamy and lightly whitened.

Fill the pastry bag or the “Mont-Blanc press”

and refrigerate until assembly.

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WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH CELERY JUICE

2 2/3oz celery juice • 1/3 cup whole milk • 3/8oz invert sugar •3/8oz glucose • 10 1/2oz Ivoire white chocolate • 1 2/3 cupswhipping cream

After washing the celery stalks and leaves well, extract

the juice using a centrifuge juice extractor. Melt

the chocolate at 45-50ºC/113-122ºF. Boil the juice

with the milk, invert sugar and glucose. Pour

gradually over the chocolate in order to give it an

elastic, lustrous texture. Blend for a few seconds.

Separate out 14oz to mix with the 1 2/3 cups of cold,

liquid whipping cream. Blend again for a few seconds.

The rest of the preparation will be used as a creamy

sauce for the assembly of the dessert.

Keep the two finished preparations in the refrigerator.

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4. AT SERVING TIME, COVER THE CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE SQUARES WITH CHESTNUT CREAM.

5. TOP WITH A FEW SLICES OF CELERY STALK IN SYRUP, DRAINED WELL.

6. WHIP THE GANACHE SLOWLY WITH A HANDHELD BLENDER. WHEN THE TEXTURE BECOMES FIRM, COVER THE SQUARES USING A PASTRY SYRINGE AND PLACE A FEW PIECES OF BOILED CHESTNUT ON TOP.

TO SERVEAt serving time, cover a first square of chocolate dacquoise with the chestnut cream using a pastry syringe. Place

a few pieces of celery in light syrup on top. Cover with another dacquoise square. Delicately whip the white chocolate

ganache perfumed with celery. Top the second dacqouise square with the mousse ganache and a few pieces of boiled

chestnuts.

Top with a final square of chocolate dacquoise.

Present on the plate surrounded with a ribbon of the white chocolate and celery ganache, not whipped, and very

creamy.

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CELERY STALKS AND LEAVESPOACHED IN LIGHT CITRUSSYRUP

ASSEMBLY OF THE DESSERT

1/2qt water • 6oz sugar • 1 slice lemon • 10 1/2oz celery stalks

Wash the celery stalks and chop.

Set aside a few tips and leaves for decoration.

Boil the water and sugar together and add the chopped

celery and lemon slice.

Boil until the celery is slightly crunchy.

Let cool and refrigerate.

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FOR 8-10 PEOPLE

WILLING TO GIVE THEMSELVES UP

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GIN TONICEvery dessert, every dish has a story. For me,

everything falls into a category of what I like,

what I dislike, either a lot, passionately,

or absolutely crazily. This dessert is born

of my untiring love for the gin tonic. In my

opinion, the gin tonic is more than a drink,

it is a symbol.

It’s my travel aperitif since, it must be said, I don’t

drink them at home. But as soon as Rika and

I are in a plane going somewhere, which happens

often… it’s my thing.

I find it to be more than just simple pleasure of taste.

In my head, this flavor combination has meaning.

Usually I am not a fan of especially bitter flavors,

but I like the acerbic sweetness here, mixed with

the gin, which I adore.

In this dessert, we find those very same

sensations that make me “fly”, so to speak.

An unparalleled contrast of textures and flavors:

sweet, acidic, bitter, crispy, silky and foamy all

combine marvelously.

It is also another nice example of the pairing

of chocolate, which at first I was not convinced

about, proving once again its capacity to enhance

and support other flavors.

It possesses neutrality that benefits many recipes.

I must include myself among those “converts”

to white chocolate, which we should admit

is a product too often unjustly criticized.

Two innovative techniques give this dish

personality: the grapefruit semi-confit, and

the light, white chocolate mousse.

Brush a sheet of phyllo dough with butter and sprinkle

lightly with the confectioner’s sugar. Before it hardens,

cover with another sheet and bond with the help

of a rolling pin. Repeat the process twice and finish by

Sift the pectin with the superfine sugar.

Heat the grapefruit juice, lemon juice and tonic

to approximately 60ºC/140ºF. While whisking, add

the pectin and sugar mixture. Bring to a rolling boil,

skim and let cool.

Add the gin and blend for a few moments with

a handheld blender. Refrigerate.

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PHYLLO CRISPS

Phyllo dough sheets • Clarified butter • Confectioner’s sugar

4. REPEAT THE PROCESS TWO MORE TIMES AND FINISH BY ADDING A FINAL SHEET OF DRYPHYLLO.

5. CUT INTO SQUARES 2 3/4 INCHES A SIDE.

6. PLACE THE SQUARES INTO BUTTERED STAINLESSSTEEL MOLDS AND BAKE AT 150-160ºC/302-320ºFUNTIL WELL BROWNED.

1. LIGHTLY BRUSH A SHEET OF PHYLLO DOUGH WITH BUTTER.

2. SPRINKLE WITH CONFECTIONER’S SUGAR AND COVER WITH AN OTHER SHEET OF PHYLLO.

3. PRESS FIRMLY USING A ROLLING PIN.

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CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC

1 1/5 cups grapefruit juice • 1/5 cup lemon juice • 3/5 cup tonic •4 1/4oz superfine sugar • 1/7oz apple pectin • 2 7/8 fl oz gin

leaving the last sheet dry. Cut into squares 2 3/4 inches

a side. Place over stainless steel tubes and bake

at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF. When they are well browned,

remove from the oven and keep in a dry place.

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water and drain well.

Crack open and grate the vanilla beans and bring

them to a boil with the milk. Add the drained gelatin

and strain through a chinois. Gradually pour

the mixture over the chopped chocolate, taking care

to emulsify correctly. The texture should be very

elastic and lustrous. Using a rubber spatula,

at a temperature of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, add the

whipped cream. Quickly pour into a flat container

and refrigerate overnight.

Just before serving time, make quenelles using a warm

spoon. Place a quenelle on top of each crisp.

This mousse freezes well, which makes the mise

en place that much easier.

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TO SERVEAllow for 3 crisps per person. Using a warm soup

spoon, place a quenelle of chocolate mousse with

vanilla on top of each crisp. Arrange the crisps on

the plate and “wedge”, if necessary, with a few pieces

of the grapefruit mosaic.

Just before serving, top each mousse quenelle with

a few peeled segments of pink and yellow grapefruit.

Cover generously with the gin tonic velouté, and finish

with a few julienned strips of grapefruit peel. Encircle

with the mosaic of grapefruit semi-confit.

To ensure the absolute success of this dessert everything

should be served cold and, of course, very crispy!

7. ADD A LITTLE BOILING MILK TO BEGIN THE EMULSION WHILE STIRRING WITH A RUBBER SPATULA.THE MIXTURE THICKENS RAPIDLY AND PARTIALLYSEPARATES: THIS IS NORMAL. IN FACT, THE EMULSION HASJUST BARELY BEGUN, AND THE MIXTURE IS STILL TOO FATTYAND NOT MOIST ENOUGH YET.

8. GRADUALLY ADD THE REST OF THE MILK, WHILESTIRRING VIGOROUSLY.

9. VERIFY THAT THE TEMPERATURE OF THE MIXTUREIS BETWEEN 35-40ºC/95-104ºF AND CAREFULLYINCORPORATE IT INTO THE WHIPPED CREAM MOUSSE.

10. IF MIXED AT A CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE, A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE SHOULD BE ELASTIC, CREAMY,LIGHT AND ABOVE ALL, EASY TO WORK.

11. AFTER A NIGHT IN THE REFRIGERATOR, THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE IS PERFECTLYCRYSTALLIZED.

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Thoroughly wash and scrub the grapefruits.

Using a filleting knife, carefully peel them, leaving just

a thin layer of white on the skin.

Simmer the slices of peel in water for 10 minutes.

Drain and repeat the operation two more times:

the peel will be almost transparent. Separate the sugar

into four equal 14oz parts. Cover the peels with

the 1.5 quarts of water and add 14oz of superfine

sugar before gently boiling for 15 minutes.

Add another 14oz of sugar and repeat the process until

all the sugar has been added, leaving it to boil each

time for 15 minutes before adding more sugar.

This “rapid confit” will turn the skins almost

transparent and make them very soft.

Set aside and refrigerate. Drain before using.

MOSAIC OF GRAPEFRUIT SEMI-CONFIT

2 pink grapefruits • 2 green grapefruits • 2 yellow grapefruits •1.5qt water • 56 1/2oz superfine sugar

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA MOUSSE

2 1/4 cups whole milk • 1/2oz gelatin sheets • 2 vanilla beans • 25 2/3oz Ivoire couverture • 26 1/2oz whipped cream

ACHTUNG! ZIS RECIPE HAST BEEN FORMULATED

FÜR 10 KOURMETS

THE BLACK FOREST… IN’To each their origins!

I am not a native to the Alsace region, but

almost. Being from Lorraine left me saturated

in Germanic rigor and especially in the

gourmand sweets from there. Schwartz Wald,

the well-known Black Forest cake, has since

made a world tour. It can be found in countless

pastry shops across the planet.

I remember a small shop in Penang – Malaysia,

no less! In the display window we found pastries

that were very similar to the ones at home.

Among others, in its almost legendary richness

and 4 3/4 inches of height, there stood

the Schwartz Wald, in the middle of the other

pastries, like the big boss of the town.

Even so far from home, the Black Forest is still

the same beautiful cake that we dreamt about

as kids.

Many adulterated, mediocre versions have been

attempted, but it is best when made simply with

good ingredients. Lightly sweetened whipping

cream with just a touch of kirsch, griotte cherries

in liqueur with their firm meat and the discreet,

delicate bitterness of the pit, and the light cake

not overly imbibed.

And that is how we imagined and prepared

it for this dessert, with a contemporary design.

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Clarify the dough by gradually adding the eggs.

Add the superfine sugar. Heat in a bain-marie

to 50ºC/122ºF and whip until ribbons form and until

the mixture cools almost completely.

ZE SHÉNOISE CAKE VIT CAKAO UND ALMONSS(WITH A SLIGHT GERMAN ACCENT)

VIPPED DARK SHOKOLATEKANACHE(STILL WITH THE GERMAN ACCENT)

12oz whole eggs • 6 3/4oz almond paste 50% • 3 1/3oz superfine sugar • 5 7/8oz flour type 45 • 2/3oz Valrhona cocoa powder

Soft ganache for base:1 cup whipping cream 35% • 7/8oz glucose • 7/8oz invert sugar • 6 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72%

Whipped ganache:1lb ganache • 1 7/8 cups whipping cream

2. WHIP UNTIL RIBBONS FORM ON MODERATE SPEED,AND CONTINUE UNTIL THE CREAMY MIXTURE COOLSALMOST COMPLETELY.

3. FOLD IN THE SIFTED FLOUR AND COCOA POWDER.

1. FOR THE COCOA GÉNOISE: CLARIFY THE ALMONDPASTE BY GRADUALLY ADDING THE EGGS. HEAT TO 50-55ºC/122-131ºF IN A BAIN-MARIE.

4. JUST BEFORE SERVING, WHIP THE CREAMYGANACHE SLOWLY WITH A HANDHELD BEATER.

Bring the whipping cream to a boil with the sugar

and glucose. Slowly pour the boiling mixture over

the chopped chocolate, stirring from the middle

to create an elastic, lustrous “nucleus”, which will

indicate the beginning of the emulsion. This texture

should be preserved until the end of the mixing.

Continue the process, adding the liquid little by little.

Blend with a handheld blender when the mixture

is finished.

Add the cream to the 1 pound of ganache and

refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. Whip the mixture with

a whisk to give it a sufficiently consistent texture

for working with a pastry bag or spatula.

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Sift the flour and cocoa powder together and add

to the whipped mixture. Spread out onto a Silpat sheet

and bake at 190-200ºC/374-392ºF.

5. TEMPER THE CHOCOLATE COUVERTURE ANDSPREAD IT THINLY BETWEEN TWO SHEETS OF PLASTIC.BEFORE THE CHOCOLATE CRYSTALLIZES COMPLETELY,CUT OUT THE DESIRED SHAPES FOR THEPRESENTATION.

6. AT SERVING TIME, ARRANGE TWO RECTANGLES OF GÉNOISE CAKE, GARNISH WITH THE HALF-CHERRIES AND THE GANACHE USING A BEVELED TIPON THE PASTRY BAG. FINISH BY PLACING THECHOCOLATE PANELS VERTICALLY ON THE PLATE AND ADDING A RIBBON OF KIRSCH CHANTILLY.

CHOCOLATE PANELS

Chocolate couverture

Temper the chocolate and spread it thinly onto a sheet

of plastic.

Cut out shapes before it crystallizes completely.

Keep in a sealed container.

CHANTILLY VIT KIRSCH(DON’T FORGET ZE CHERMANACCENT!)

1qt whipping cream • 2 3/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 1 1/3 fl ozAlsace kirsch • 1 vanilla bean

Whip the cream with the confectioner’s sugar, vanilla

and kirsch until foamy. Refrigerate until serving time.

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TO SERVEAt serving time, place two large rectangles of génoise

cake on a plate and garnish with the half-cherries and

the ganache using a pastry bag with a beveled tip.

Decorate the plate with a ribbon of chantilly and finish

with a few chocolate panels to add shape.

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TO “JAPANIZE” TEN PEOPLE

NIPPONThis is a good example of how traveling can leave

its mark on you.

Everything began with a simple macaroon

that, of my doing, somehow turned Japanese…

This came out of the simple idea of inserting

a crispy sheet of chocolate into the center

of the macaroon. It started off round, then

became a triangle, then a square and finally

finished as a rectangle, all because we found out

that the bigger the sheet was, the better

the macaroon stood up. What a surprise! And

suddenly, while admiring my discovery, my

second homeland called to me and I found

the Hinomaru, the Japanese flag. There it is,

I found my pastry fetish; how the ideas

materialize! This funny little story left such

an impression on me that I couldn’t resist

offering you this stand-up macaroon.

Japan, a country of contrasts, of beauty,

of finesse… this dessert is made in its image,

whispering its secrets to us.

Supple, milky and frozen under its crunchy

chocolate shell with Matcha tea, it seduces

and calls to you with its golden sesame pearls

and lightly caramelized lychees.

Full of sensations that should awaken your

desires to discover this round, almost perfect

symbol of the land of the rising sun.

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Sift the powders separately. Add the sugar to the still

warm butter and mix with a rubber spatula. Add

the flour and cocoa powder, then the egg whites,

gradually to prevent the formation of any lumps.

Be careful to not whip or whiten the preparation.

Keep the paste in the refrigerator or use immediately.

Spread the paste out with the help of a rectangular

stencil about 3 by 5 inches.

Bake at 180-190ºC/356-374ºF. Remove the stencil and

let cool before storing in a dry place.

COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATEPARFAIT

FRESH SAUTÉED LYCHEES WITH GINGER CARAMEL

3 1/2oz noisette butter • 3 1/2oz egg whites • 3 1/2ozconfectioner’s sugar • 2 3/4oz flour type 45 • 3 3/4 tbsp cocoapowder

1 4/5 cups whipping cream 35% • 4 1/4oz fresh egg whites •7oz superfine sugar • 15 1/8oz Tanariva Lactée milkchocolate 33%

14oz fresh lychees • 4 2/5oz superfine sugar • 2/3oz freshgrated ginger • 2 tbsp whipping cream

1. SPREAD THE DOUGH OUT USING AN OFFSETSPATULA.

2. FORM RECTANGLES BY SCRAPING THE DOUGH WITH THE EDGE OF THE SPATULA. BAKE AT 160-170ºC/320-338ºF FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 MINUTES.KEEP IN A DRY PLACE.

3. FILL SILICONE FLEXIPAN MOLDS HALF WAY UP WITHTHE CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AND FREEZE.

4. COOK THE SUGAR BY ITSELF UNTIL IT BEGINS TO LIGHTLY SMOKE, OR CHECKING THAT THETEMPERATURE IS BETWEEN 185-188ºC/365-370ºF.

5. STOP THE COOKING BY ADDING THE LYCHEES AND CREAM. BRING TO A BOIL FOR A FEW SECONDSAND REFRIGERATE.

Prepare a “Swiss” meringue with the sugar and egg

whites.

In the bain-marie, heat the mixture to approximately

55-60ºC/131-140ºF and slowly whip until it cools

down again.

Meanwhile, melt the couverture at about 50ºC/122ºF

and whip the cream. Emulsify the couverture by

adding least possible amount of the whipped, foamy

cream necessary to give it an elastic, lustrous texture.

Add the meringue just as it is taken out of the mixer

and mix delicately. Finish by adding in the rest of

the whipped cream. Pour into the base of hemisphere

molds and freeze.

Note: You will definitely have extra parfait leftover, but thisrecipe requires only a small amount to obtain the desiredresult.

Wash and peel the lychees and remove the pits.

Caramelize the sugar by itself until well browned.

Stop the cooking by adding the lychees and whipping

cream.

Add the ginger and bring to a boil.

Refrigerate.

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TO SERVEJust before serving, stick two hemispheres of the frozen

parfait dipped in Matcha chocolate on either side

of a chocolate cigarette paste “tuile” with the help

of a little melted chocolate.

Adhere in such a way that the dessert can stand up

on its own.

Place on a plate and decorate generously with

the warmed lychees.

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7. SPRINKLE WITH TOASTED SESAME SEEDS QUICKLY,BEFORE IT CRYSTALLIZES.

8. DIP A SECOND TIME IN THE CHOCOLATE WITHGREEN TEA AND FREEZE.

6. DIP THE FROZEN PARFAITS IN THE WHITECHOCOLATE WITH GREEN TEA MIXTURE, MELTED AT A MAXIMUM OF 35-40ºC/95-104ºF.

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA AND TOASTEDSESAME

8 3/4oz white chocolate • 3 1/2oz cocoa butter • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • 1/2oz matcha green tea • 3 1/2oz toasted sesame seeds

Melt all the ingredients together, except the tea,

at 40-45ºC/104-113ºF.

Add the Matcha tea and stir for a few moments until

it dissolves completely.

Keep hot and melted to dip the frozen parfaits into

later, or let harden without refrigerating.

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To dip the frozen parfaits, pierce them with the tip

of a knife and dip a first time in the melted Matcha

chocolate at a maximum of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF.

Sprinkle with the sesame seeds immediately before

the mixture has a chance to cool.

Dip again, drain and keep in a container in the freezer.

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FOR 8-10 TRAVEL BUFFS

KOUIKARAS ISLANDI remember… it wasn’t Quebec, but rather

Langkawi, in a small white temple worshiped

for the destiny of a young child-turned-god.

At the entrance, once we passed the white gates

of reinforced steel, my pastry chef nose guided

the way. Rika and I, accustomed to temples thick

with incense smoke, were taken aback by these

sweet smells, so far from home, lost somewhere

on a small island in Malaysia.

I came across a little old woman, crouching

to the ground with her back hunched over,

dropping a creamy piece of coconut dough into

a practically non-existent oil bath. I approached

her, counting on my ability to communicate

through the language of sight and pleasure. A few

perfectly golden crêpes dentelles filled the round

cooking surface, which was nothing more than a

concave top to an oil barrel, in the center of which

a bit of oil bubbled over a soft flame.

Unfortunately, we could barely communicate

with her aside from a smile and a couple

of words in English. In any event, I understood

that the dough was “maybe” made with egg

whites, cornstarch and sugar. As far as the recipe

goes, you can imagine…

Almost instantly the crêpe reminded me of

the caramel that covers my favorite dessert, the

floating island. Even on vacation I am haunted

by sweets!

I already had the idea to crown “my” chocolate

dessert with this tidbit from Kouikaras,

or cookie, instead of the caramel, which has

an extremely sweet flavor that bothers me

sometimes.

And so, with this recipe you will discover a little

slice of Malaysia and one of my most delicious

desserts.

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Sift the powders together and mix them with the egg

whites, avoiding lumps. Follow by adding the orange

flower and finish the mixture.

In a frying pan, pour in oil to about 3/8 inch deep,

a very thin layer, and preheat to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF.

Using a paper cone, make strings of dough, entangling

them on top of each other. Leave in the oil until golden

brown and remove.

Place on absorbent paper and keep in a dry place.

KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER

5 1/3oz fresh egg whites • 1 3/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 1 3/4oz flour type 55 • 3 1/2oz cornstarch • 2/3oz orange flower

1. POUR THE OIL INTO A PAN TO A DEPTH OF ABOUT3/8 INCH. PREHEAT TO 170-180ºC/338-356ºF ANDMAKE THIN LINES OF KOUIKARAS DOUGH USING A PAPER CONE.

2. WHEN THEY TURN GOLDEN BROWN, REMOVE FROMTHE OIL AND PLACE ON ABSORBENT PAPER.

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TO SERVEJust before serving, coat the base of a plate with the chocolate cream and place a piece

of poached egg white on top. Sprinkle the Kouikaras with confectioner’s sugar and cut them

into thin sheets to be skewered vertically on the “island”. Serve immediately.

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CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH ORANGE ZEST

7oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • 2 1/2 cups whole milk • 1/5oz pectin X58* • Zest of 1 orange

3. FILL THE MOLDS WITH THE WHIPPED EGG WHITESAND SMOOTH WITH A SPATULA.

4. COOK IN A MICROWAVE ON A MODERATE SETTINGFOR JUST A FEW SECONDS.

5. DE-MOLD IMMEDIATELY AND REFRIGERATE BEFORESERVING.

Chop the chocolate. Sift the pectin with the sugar and

zest the orange. Heat the milk to about 60ºC/140ºF,

dilute the pectin and add the zest.

Bring to a boil and pour gradually over the chopped

chocolate to obtain, and maintain, a perfectly

emulsified texture.

Strain the mixture through a chinois and refrigerate

until serving time. This preparation cannot be frozen.

* This kind of pectin reacts with the calcium and not with the citric acid.

FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER

7oz fresh egg whites • 2 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1 3/4oz powdered glucose • 1/2oz orange flower • 1/14oz (2g) cream of tartar

Combine all of the ingredients and beat slowly until

peaks form.

Using an offset spatula, fill small hemisphere molds,

or other similarly shaped recipients, and smooth

the tops. Depending on size, cook in a microwave

at 100 watts for approximately 40 seconds.

When removed from the microwave, the egg whites

should be slightly detached from the edges.

Delicately remove from the molds and refrigerate.

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RECIPE CALCULATED FOR A DISCOVERY OF 35 DESSERTS

THE NEW WORLDAnother fascinating story for this dessert.

It was named “New World” after the New World

Food and Wine, which is a significant gastronomic

event organized at the Ritz Carlton in Singapore

by their executive chef, Christophe Megel.

I had the good fortune to be invited to this

experience. And there is no other word

to describe it really: after preparing 600

“competition” desserts for so many diners, it was

exactly that, an experience.

The theme was the New World and I had to find

an appropriate dessert. From Christophe’s own

mouth came words like “make something crazy,

a spectacle, something unprecedented.” With

each word the stress seemed to increase! So,

I needed to come up with a dessert that could

be assembled 4-6 hours prior to serving, would

sit well in the cold storage room, with a rapid

service of about 20 minutes to the 600 guests.

I also had the “permission” to add something

to the dish at the time of service.

In one of the most beautiful palaces in all

of Asia, the Ritz, organization runs by a

metronome and creativity is the order of

the day. It is a quality that, through Christophe,

is tinted with the rigor of his time in

the Alsace region and from working with

Alain Ducasse.

Since I come from the neighboring Lorraine

region it’s difficult for me to say, but since

it’s true… Vive Alsace and Lorraine!

After a few modifications, the New World was

born.

It was born of professional ideas of my lovely

team, and of a concept for an Easter dessert that

Phillipe Givre, my assistant, had at the Troisgros

restaurant where he was pastry chef for seven

years.

In a deep plate, his Easter egg melted upon

addition of the chocolate sauce that it was bathed

in at the last moment, the hot satin texture

revealing… I can’t remember what anymore.

Sorry Phil!

Aside from the pleasure of this experience, I also

had the joy of meeting Gérald Maridet who, after

being my first assistant at school, left me for

bigger and better things. He became head pastry

chef first at La Pinède, then at the Hyatt

in Jakarta, then on to the Ritz in Singapore,

and today at the Ritz in Beijing.

A lot of hard work, yes, but also so much mutual

support and friendship!

A showy dessert with a mise en place that is easy

and efficient. Flavors taken from here and there.

Contrasts of textures and temperatures… just

how the chefs like it!

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Melt the ingredients together at 50-55ºC/122-131ºF.

Crystallize as you would a couverture and pour a thin

coating into 70 hemisphere molds, 2 3/4 inches

in diameter.

Leave to crystallize for a minimum of 2 to 3 hours

before de-molding.

Place big, irregular drops of chocolate onto paper

and fix half of the hemispheres, open side up, into

the chocolate. These will serve to assemble the dessert

on the plate. Set aside as soon as possible in a sealed

container to avoid them absorbing any odors. Save

the rest of the chocolate for dressing the streusel later,

and to keep it from softening in the dessert.

ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATESPHERES

ALMOND STREUSEL GELATINS

13 1/4oz Guanaja couverture 70% • 5 1/3oz cocoa butter3 1/2oz butter • 3 1/2oz brown sugar • 4/5 cup soft flour type 55 • 3 1/2oz powdered almonds • 3/4 tsp fine salt

Supple gelatin “grand cru”6 7/8oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 1/7oz pectin X58(thermoreversible) • 1 1/4oz superfine sugar • 2 2/3 cups whole milk

Diamond gelatin of Menton lemon and honey3 1/3 cups water • 3 1/3oz sugar •3 1/3oz lavender honey •1/3oz agar agar • 1/4oz gelatin sheets • 2 Menton lemons

1. PREPARATION IN HEMISPHERE MOLDS OF ULTRAFINE TEMPERED CHOCOLATE.

Cut the cold butter into small cubes.

Sift the sugar, flour, salt and powdered almonds

together. Add the butter and mix with a flat

attatchment. Small balls will form, then will transform

into inconsistent dough. Stop the mixing and

refrigerate this “dough” for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Pass the cold dough through a 1/8 inch sieve

or an icing grate to obtain uniform pieces. Refrigerate

or freeze until cooking. Distribute the streusel evenly

onto a tray.

Bake on low heat, 150-160ºC/302-320ºF, with

the steam vent open, until it acquires a deep golden

color. Let cool. Place the streusel in a mixing bowl

and, while mixing with a rubber spatula, cover

with the warm melted chocolate used to mold

the hemispheres.

Once crystallized, keep in containers, or fill

the fastened, “upright” hemispheres directly.

Supple “grand cru” gelatin

Chop the couverture.

Sift the pectin together with the sugar and mix into

the warm milk.

Bring to a boil and gradually pour over the chopped

chocolate to give a perfect, stable texture

to the emulsion.

Let cool and pour into the hemispheres already filled

with the streusel. Leave to crystallize in the

refrigerator.

This preparation cannot be frozen.

Diamond gelatin with Menton lemon and honey

Wash the lemons, remove half the zest of one lemon

with a peeler and squeeze the rest. Boil the water

and steep the zest for 2 to 3 minutes, then remove.

Add the lemon juice, the sugar mixed with the

powdered agar agar, and the gelatin, previously soaked

in plenty of water, and bring to a boil. Leave to set

in the refrigerator. Do not freeze. At serving time,

break the gelatin into “diamonds” and scatter around

each sphere.

1

15 ripe vine peaches • Liquid butter • Superfine sugar •35 sprigs of fresh lavender

2. FIX THE HEMISPHERES ONTO A DROP OF TEMPEREDCHOCOLATE TO FORM A FOUNDATION. FILL WITHSTREUSEL, THEN THE CHOCOLATE GELATIN (COLD BUT STILL LIQUID SO THE CHOCOLATE DOESN’T MELT).LET SIT IN THE REFRIGERATOR FOR A FEW MOMENTSBEFORE VERTICALLY INSERTING THE “TUILES” OFCACAO NIB NOUGATINE.

3. ON A HOT TRAY, VERY LIGHTLY MELT THE EDGES OF THE SECOND CHOCOLATE HEMISPHERE ANDQUICKLY FIX IT TO THE FROZEN DESSERT.

6. AS IT MELTS, THE CHOCOLATE SPHERE REVEALSTHE SURPRISE HIDDEN WITHIN THE DESSERT.

7. THE FILLING.

4. FOR A MORE GOURMAND APPEARANCE, COAT THE TOP HEMISPHERE IN POWDERED CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER.

5. AT THE MOMENT WHEN YOU SERVE THE CLIENT,COVER THE SPHERE WITH THE CHOCOLATE SAUCEHEATED TO 60ºC/140ºF.

TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE CACAO NIB NOUGATINE BROCHETTES OF VINE PEACHESPRICKED WITH FRESHLAVENDER

1 2/3 cups whole milk • 3 1/2oz glucose • 11 1/2oz JivaraLactée chocolate 40% • 5 4/5oz Manjari chocolate 64%

5 1/3oz sugar • 7/8oz pectin NH • 4 2/5oz butter • 1 3/4ozglucose • 6 1/6oz cacao nibs

Boil the milk with the glucose. Over the melted

chocolate, add a small quantity of hot milk and

proceed with the emulsion.

The mixture should be elastic and lustrous. Finish

by adding the rest of the very hot liquid.

Refrigerate or serve very hot, 65ºC/149ºF,

so the chocolate shells melt on contact.

Melt the butter with the glucose. Mix the pectin into

the sugar and add to the butter. Cook on low heat,

without stirring much, until it thickens.

Add the cacao nibs and spread between two sheets

of sulphurized paper.

Bake at 170-180ºC/338-356ºF, or store in the freezer

or refrigerator. When the sugary mixture acquires

a nice caramel color, remove from the oven.

Set aside in a dry place.

Wash the peaches and cut into ten segments.

Skewer them with the lavender sprigs. Place on a tray

and coat with butter using a brush or a vaporizer.

Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a hot oven

at 220-230ºC/428-446ºF.

When the peaches are browned, remove from

the oven.

Serve hot.

TO SERVE

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4 6

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RECIPE FOR AN8-10 PERSON INTERGALACTIC VOYAGE THE MILKY WAY

This is a dessert that takes you right back to your

childhood. That milky sweetness of certain

desserts that got us out of bed… to eat some!

A composition of familiar flavors and an alluring

look. Like a space ship coming back to earth that

just happens to land on your plate, just for you.

Raspberry nectar, a teardrop of creamy

chocolate-coriander mousse…

The ensemble is comfortably situated within

a “virtual” milk chocolate made from gelatins

of bitter chocolate and raw milk. A few thin

sheets of chocolate and a “nebula” of crunchy

sablé are there to spice things up a bit.

I’ll always be thankful to my mother who

ingrained in me so many gourmet experiences,

but especially for her homemade desserts.

In fact, if Papa, Emmanuel, Florence, Alexandre

or I got up from the table, it was for one of her

eternally delicious sweets, like the caramelized

pineapple and yoghurt pastry, or the“floating

island”, visitandines* or beignets, mmm…

Moreover, it has been a source of inspiration for

many of my desserts, like the Kouikaras,

for example. And my biscuit Emmanuel always

reminds me of her pineapple pastry!

The simple concept notwithstanding, this dessert

produces the desired effect just by landing

on the table.

Once more, unusual textures that may be new

for many diners, but that are delicious

and refreshingly pleasant at the end of a meal.

Another offering that reaffirms our idea that

chocolate desserts can be fresh, light:

the finishing touch to a lovely meal.

270

* Translator’s note: A small, round pastry in the shape of a filled wafer with consistent dough, sometimes covered with apricot marmalade after baking and glazed with a kirsch fondant.

271

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Start by mixing together the softened butter, fine salt,

confectioner’s sugar, powdered almonds, eggs and

1/2 cup of flour.

Be careful not to whip. When the mixture becomes

homogenous, quickly add the remaining 1 2/5 cups

of flour.

Let stand for 1 to 2 hours and slice very thinly.

Bake at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF until the dough

acquires a nice, light brown color. Let cool and grind

in the food processor.

When the grains are sufficiently fine, add the melted

Gianduja, just warm. Finish the mixture by hand

to not mash the dough any further. If necessary,

perform a sablage with gloved hands.

Keep in a dry place.

COMPRESSED SABLÉ OFALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILKCHOCOLATE

GELATINS CHOCOLATE-CORIANDERMOUSSE AND CREAM

4 1/4oz butter • 4 1/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 2oz powderedalmonds • 1 3/4oz eggs •1/2 cup soft flour type 55 • 1 2/5 cupssoft flour type 55 • 1/3 tsp fine salt • 3 1/2oz Gianduja milkchocolate

Dark chocolate gelatin 2 cups raw whole milk • 2 3/4oz sugar • 7oz Araguanichocolate 72% • 1/8oz agar agar

Raw milk gelatin2 cups raw whole milk • 2oz sugar • 1/8oz agar agar

Tender ganache base1 cup whipping cream • 7/8oz glucose • 7/8oz invert sugar •2/5oz cilantro seeds • 7oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 cupswhipping cream

Dark chocolate gelatin

Boil the milk with the sugar and agar agar.

Pour, little by little, over the chopped chocolate

to obtain a perfect emulsion with an elastic, lustrous

texture.

Finish by gradually adding the rest of the milk.

Blend for a few moments to give it a smooth, supple

texture. Pour into a tray to an approximate height

of 2/3 to 3/4 inch.

Warning: this preparation must not be frozen

Raw milk gelatin

Boil the milk with the sugar and agar agar.

Blend for a few moments and pour into a tray

to an approximate height of 2/3 to 3/4 inch.

Warning: this preparation must not be frozen

Boil 1 cup of whipping cream with the sugars and add

the cracked coriander seeds. Steep for 3 to 4 minutes

and strain through a chinois. Slowly pour the mixture

over the chopped chocolate, while stirring from

the center to create an elastic, lustrous “nucleus”

– a sign of a correct emulsion. This texture should be

maintained until the end of the mixing. Continue

gradually adding the liquid until finished.

Finally, add the 2 cups of cold whipping cream.

Leave to crystallize in the refrigerator for a minimum

of 3 hours, or preferably overnight. Separate out

a small amount for the chocolate cream and whip

the rest slowly with a whisk.

The texture should be silky and light.

TO SERVESprinkle the Gianduja sablé onto the base of a plate. Place a rectangle of dark chocolate gelatin on top.

Top with a very thin semicircle of chocolate.

Cut a rectangle of the raw milk gelatin and, using different sized pastry bag tips, punch out cavities. Keep the removed

bits of gelatin for decoration.

Just before serving, fill the respective cavities with chocolate mousse, chocolate cream, and raspberry puree.

Garnish with a second chocolate semicircle.

3 5

2 4

RASPBERRY PUREE DESSERT ASSEMBLY

3 1/2oz fresh raspberries • 1 3/4oz neutral glaze

While cold, smash the raspberries and glaze with

a fork to obtain a puree, without breaking the seeds.

Refrigerate.

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2. CUT OUT SEMICIRCLES IN A THIN SHEET OF CHOCOLATE.

3. CUT THE DARK CHOCOLATE AND RAW MILK GELATINSINTO RECTANGLES.

1. SMASH THE RASPBERRIES AND GLAZE TO OBTAIN A WELL COMBINED MIXTURE.

4. MAKE THREE DIFFERENT SIZED CAVITIES IN THE RAW MILK GELATIN.

5. FILL ONE CAVITY WITH RASPBERRY PUREE,ANOTHER WITH THE CHOCOLATE CREAM AND THE LASTWITH THE MOUSSE.

MIGNARDISES

LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

OVALIS TONKA

CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

PUZZLE

SYDNEY

GOLD BULLION

IRISH COFFEE CUBE

HIBISCUS

VERBENA

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279

280

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282

283

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MIGNARDISES275

276

TO SERVECut the Ivoire mousse with licorice into rectangles 3/4 inch on a side.

Place each piece on top of a square of sachertorte, cut to approximately 1 inch on a side.

Using tempered dark chocolate couverture, construct small ladders and lean them on

the mousse.

LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITECHOCOLATE MOUSSE

LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

Yet another mission of apprenticeship, of sorcery…It’s often exactly what is missing…at that last moment,when you need a cake fast!

9/10 cups whole milk • 12 1/3oz Ivoire couverture • 1 1/2 cupswhipping cream 35% • Licorice powder

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water and drain. Melt

the white chocolate. Boil the milk and add the licorice.

Steep for 3 to 4 minutes and strain through a chinois.

Add the drained gelatin.

Pour the hot milk, little by little, over the melted

chocolate to emulsify correctly. The texture should

be very elastic and lustrous. Make sure the

temperature is between 30-35ºC/86-95ºF, and stir

in the whipped cream mousse.

Pour into frame molds 1 1/2 inches high and freeze.

CARAÏBE SACHERTORTE

15 7/8oz almond paste 50% • 4 1/2oz superfine sugar • 7 2/5oz egg yolks • 5 1/3oz whole eggs • 8 3/4oz egg whites • 4 1/2oz superfine sugar • 3 1/2oz flour type 45 • 1 3/4oz cocoapowder • 5 1/3oz Caraïbe couverture 66% • 3 1/2oz liquidbutter

Mix the almond paste with 4 1/2oz of sugar and

moisten by adding the yolks and whole eggs, one

by one. Whip until ribbons form. Beat the egg whites

while adding the remaining sugar, little by little. Sift

the cocoa powder and flour together. Meanwhile, melt

the couverture and butter at 50ºC/122ºF. Mix a small

amount of the whites with the couverture and melted

butter to give it a light, smooth texture. Add

the almond paste mixture with eggs and yolks. Finally,

add the cocoa powder and flour and finish by mixing

in the rest of the egg whites. Spread out on a tray

and bake at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, steam vent closed.

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OVALIS TONKA

6 1/3oz superfine sugar • 1 1/4 cups whipping cream 35% • 4 1/4oz glucose syrup • 1 3/4oz Tanariva chocolate 33% • 1 3/4oz butter • Tonka beans

11 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1/14oz (2g) pectin NH • 4 2/5oz butter • 1 3/4oz glucose • 6 1/8oz cacao nibs • 2/3 cup water

Prepare the caramel by cooking the superfine sugar

by itself.

Warm the cream with the glucose and finely grated

Tonka bean. Cool the caramel down by adding the

warm mixture and then cook together at 104ºC/219ºF.

Let the temperature cool again to 80-85ºC/176-185ºF,

strain through a chinois and emulsify with the milk

chocolate.

At 35ºC/95ºF, add the 5 1/3 ounces of butter and mix.

Let crystallize and garnish the chocolate shells with

the mixture using a pastry bag.

Combine the sugar and pectin first, then and add

the butter, glucose and water.

Cook together on low heat without much stirring.

When the mixture starts to thicken, add the warmed

nibs.

Spread out onto a Silpat sheet.

Bake at 180-190ºC/356-374ºF. Let cool.

Break up the nougatine into little shards and place

them over the creamy Tonka caramel. Serve cold.

Flavors of Venezuela. Notes of beeswax and turpentine.The mystery of the Tonka lurks within…

TONKA BEAN CARAMEL CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

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COOKIE DOUGH

CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

It’s the joke we play on all the young, naïve apprentices.I already had the workers laughing with this the first week of my apprenticeship.The young apprentices go off to look for a curling iron for the parsley but the pastry workersstill have a few tricks of their sleeves…This little sweet is done in their memory. Nice, huh?

7oz butter • 7oz beet sugar • 2oz demerara sugar (soft brownsugar) • 1 whole egg • 1 tsp whole milk • 3 1/5 cups flour type45 • 1/3 tsp fine salt • 1 1/3 tsp baking powder • Cinnamonpowder • 1 finely grated orange zest

Mix the cold butter with the sugars, cinnamon, orange

zest, salt, flour and baking powder then add the eggs

and milk.

Roll out to 1/16-1/8 inch. Let sit and harden.

Freeze and cut into squares 3/4 inch on a side.

Bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF, for 15 to 20 minutes

with the steam vent open. Keep in a dry place.

CHANTILLY

2 cups whipping cream 40% • 1 2/5oz confectioner’s sugar

Whip the cream with the confectioner’s sugar.

Using a pastry bag, garnish the top of the cookies with

small puffs of chantilly, then “cut” the chantilly with

the chocolate cookie-cutter.

PURE CHOCOLATE COOKIE-CUTTER

2 1/5lbs Manjari couverture 64% • 3 1/2oz cocoa butter

Form tubes with sheets of dipping paper, about

3/8 inch in diameter.

Temper the couverture and fill the pastry bag.

Once filled, tap lightly to get rid of any excess and

make a few back and forth movements across the work

space to add the finishing touches on the inside of

the tubes. Leave to crystallize in the refrigerator. Using

a hot knife, cut into small rings, 3/4 inch high.

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CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW

PUZZLE

A marshmallow that reminds us of trendycandy stores, with a playful, gourmandappeal.

1lb cassonade amber, or demerara sugar • 2/3 cup mineralwater • 5oz invert sugar • 1 1/4oz gelatin • 7oz invert sugar •8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Superfine sugar andcassonade amber or demerara sugar

Soak the gelatin in a large amount of water.

Cook the demerara sugar and 5 ounces of invert sugar

with the water at 110ºC/230ºF.

In a mixing bowl, pour the cooked syrup over the

remaining 7oz of invert sugar.

Drain the gelatin to obtain a weight of 3 3/4 ounces,

melt it in the microwave and pour it over the sugars.

Whip until ribbons form.

When the marshmallow is just warm, add the melted

Araguani chocolate at 60ºC/140ºF, stirring with

a rubber spatula, and quickly move to a pastry bag

to make tubes.

Leave to crystallize overnight and cut tubes

2 3/4 inches long. Tie the tubes in knots and roll

in a mixture of superfine and demerara sugar.

Store in a dry place in sealed containers.

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CARAÏBE CHOCOLATESACHERTORTE

SYDNEY

An operatic design for a true classic.Sydney meets Vienna…

15oz almond paste 50% • 4 1/2oz superfine sugar • 7 2/5oz eggyolks • 5 1/3oz whole eggs • 8 3/4oz egg whites • 4 1/2ozsuperfine sugar • 3 1/2oz flour type 45 • 1 3/4oz cocoa powder• 5 1/3oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% • 3 1/2oz liquid butter

Mix the almond paste with 4 1/2oz of sugar

and moisten by adding the yolks and whole eggs,

one by one. Whip until ribbons form. Beat the egg

whites while adding the remaining sugar, little by

little. Sift the cocoa powder and flour together.

Separately, melt the couverture and butter at

50ºC/122ºF. Mix a small amount of the whites with

the couverture and melted butter to give it a light,

smooth texture. Add the almond paste mixture

with eggs and yolks. Finally, add the cocoa powder

and flour and finish by mixing in the rest of

the egg whites. Spread out on a tray and bake

at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, steam vent closed.

OPERA GLAZE

8 3/4oz dark chocolate glaze • 3 1/2oz extra bitter chocolate67% • 5 1/8 tbsp grapeseed oil

Melt all the ingredients together, taking care not

to heat past 45ºC/113ºF.

Use between 33-35ºC/91-95ºF. Take the dessert out

of the refrigerator 15 to 20 minutes before applying

the glaze.

Glaze with a ladle, making sure to remove any excess

as quickly as possible.

Avoid refreezing once it is glazed.

It will keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator.

TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATEGANACHE

2 1/2 cups whipping cream 35% • 4 2/5oz invert sugar •26 1/2oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% • 2 3/4oz fresh butter

Mix the cream with the invert sugar and bring

to a boil. Pour gradually over the chopped chocolate

to obtain a perfect emulsion, elastic and smooth.

At 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, add the cold butter in cubes.

Mix for a few seconds and use immediately.

Note: calculated for a 12 x 8in frame.

TO SERVECut the sachertorte sheet in two. In a 12 x 8 inch

frame, place a first layer of ganache on top, cover

with another sheet of sachertorte and finish with

a final layer of ganache. Refrigerate so the ganache

crystallizes properly. Remove the Sydney from its

frame and glaze with the Opera glaze. Cut into

squares 3/4 inch on a side. Temper the Caraïbe

couverture. Spread thinly over a plastic sheet. Before

total crystallization occurs, cut into circles 3 inches

in diameter using a hot pastry-cutter. With the tip

of a knife, cut the discs into four equal parts. Keep dry

in a sealed container. Decorate by arranging a little

chocolate platelet on each side of the square.

Be sure to alternate the curves to give it

the unmistakable look of the Sydney opera house.

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CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW

GOLD BULLION

Note: this recipe is calculated for 3 frames of 7 x 7 inches,3/4 inch high.

A sweet that still makes children fantasizeeven today, but this one is made for the grown-ups!

1lb superfine sugar • 2/3 cup mineral water •5oz invert sugar • 1 1/4oz gelatin • 7oz invert sugar • 8 3/4ozGuanaja chocolate 70% • Cocoa powder • Equal partsstarch/confectioner’s sugar mixture

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water. Cook the superfine

sugar, the 5 ounces of invert sugar and the water

at 110ºC/230ºF.

In a mixing bowl, pour the cooked syrup over

the 7oz of remaining invert sugar.

Drain the gelatin to obtain 3 3/4 ounces, melt in

the microwave and pour over the sugars. Whip until

ribbons form. When the marshmallow is just warm,

fold in the cocoa paste melted at 60ºC/140ºF

and pour as quickly as possible, at a temperature

of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, into the 7 x 7 inch frames.

Leave to crystallize for 1 to 2 hours and cut with

a guitar cutter into 3/4 inch cubes.

Dust lightly with cocoa powder and apply one face

to a sheet of wet paper then stick a gold leaf sheet

on top. Keep in a dry place.

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SUPPLE SABLÉ WITH NUTTY PRALINE

IRISH COFFEE CUBE

So little, so cute… and so Irish!

10 1/4oz butter • 4oz superfine sugar • 1/3 cup whole milk • 4 1/4oz praline, 50% nuts • 3 1/8 cups flour type 55

Soften the butter and add the sugar. Beat with a paddle

beater until it whitens.

Meanwhile, warm the milk and mix it vigorously

with the praline to give it an elastic, lustrous texture.

Add to the whitened butter along with the sifted flour.

Spread out to a height of 1/8 inch between two sheets

of dipping paper and freeze. Cut into squares 3/4 inch

on a side and cook on a Silpain baking mat at

160ºC/320ºF, for 10 to 15 minutes, steam vent open.

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE CREAM

3/5 cup whole milk • 1/3oz invert sugar • 1/3oz glucose • 2 tbsp instant coffee • 10 1/2oz Ivoire white couverture • 2 cups whipping cream

Melt the chocolate at 45-50ºC/113-122ºF.

Boil the milk with the invert sugar and glucose.

Add the instant coffee.

Pour gradually over the melted chocolate to give

it an elastic, lustrous texture.

Mix for a few seconds.

Add the cold, liquid whipping cream.

Mix for a few more seconds

Refrigerate.

WHISKY GELATIN

1 1/4 cups mineral water • 1 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1/5oz agar agar • 1/14oz (2g) gelatin • 1 3/4oz whisky

Heat the water.

Mix the sugar and agar agar together, soak the gelatin

and combine everything in the water. Bring to a boil.

Add the whisky and pour into 3/4 inch high plastic

trays. Let sit and refrigerate. Cut into beveled squares

and make a hole in the top with the tip of the pastry

bag, taking care not to go deeper than 2/3 inch.

With the edge of a knife, cut the tube on its side

and remove the “cork” of gelatin at the center.

The cavity is now ready to be filled with the coffee

cream.

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Note: this recipe is calculated to make about 80 pieces.

HIBISCUS

Purple flavor, acidic freshness.

2 1/8 cups mineral water • 1/3oz hibiscus flowers • 2 3/4ozsuperfine sugar • 1/10oz pectin NH • 2/3oz lemon juice • Darkcouverture • 22 1/2oz hibiscus nectar (about 1/4oz per piece)

Bring the water to a boil and add the fried hibiscus

flowers. Steep for approximately 4 minutes. Strain

through a chinois and add the sugar and pectin

mixture. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat,

add the lemon juice and refrigerate. Temper the dark

couverture and, using a paper cone, make chocolate

droplets and place a hollow white chocolate ball

on top of each. Decorate according to personal taste,

or as shown in the photo. Keep this mise en place

in a dry, sealed container.

Before each service, or just before sending it off, fill

with the hibiscus nectar. Serve very cold.

VERBENA

An energetic touch for a relaxing moment

2 1/3 cups mineral water • Fresh verbena leaves •2 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1/10oz pectin NH • 2 tsp lemon juice • Dark couverture • 22 1/2oz verbena nectar(about 1/4oz per piece)

Boil the water and steep the verbena leaves for

4 minutes. Strain through a chinois. Dilute the pectin

with the superfine sugar and add to the boiling water;

bring back to a boil. Away from heat, add the lemon

juice. Refrigerate. Temper the dark couverture

and, using a paper cone, make chocolate droplets and

place a hollow ball of milk chocolate on top of each.

Decorate according to personal taste, or as is shown

in the photo. Keep this mise en place in a dry, sealed

container.

Before each service, or just before sending it off,

fill with the verbena nectar. Serve very cold.

Note: this recipe is calculated to make about 80 pieces.

Now here’s an original idea.

I always dreamed of making chocolate mayonnaise!

The process was slow going, but worth it.

We tried practically everything but unfortunately

the infusions and marinades of nibs in oil were never

satisfying, or surprising for that matter.

On the occasions when it did surprise us, it was

because it was not very good.

After many attempts, the winning idea was finally

to dissolve the chocolate in neutral oil.

It’s a preparation that you will find in many of

our recipes.

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Clean the squabs and cut the carcasses into pieces.

In a skillet, vigorously brown the carcass pieces in

the grapeseed oil.

When they acquire a golden, uniform color, add the

unpeeled garlic and sweat the mixture, then drain.

Remove excess fat from the carcasses and return to

the hot skillet with the butter, vegetables, and

aromatic herbs. Stir constantly to deglaze.

Trim excess fat again, then deglaze with a small

amount of fond blanc; reduce to a demi-glace so that

it coats the pieces of squab carcass. Cover with water

and reduce again.

Add the remaining ingredients and reduce to make

a syrupy juice, then clarify. Refrigerate.

SQUAB STOCK

6 5/8lbs squab carcasses • 15 garlic heads • 4 thinly slicedshallots • 2 2/3oz butter • 2/5 cup grapeseed oil • 5qt fowl fondblanc • 21 1/8oz carrots, coarsely chopped • 5 1/3oz onions • 1 bunch aromatic herbs

Melt all the ingredients together, without exceeding

a temperature of 40ºC/104ºF.

Use at a minimum temperature of 35ºC/95ºF.

KKO OIL

8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1 3/5 cups grapeseed oil • 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil

In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.

Pour in the white wine and cover with water.

Heat and season.

Meanwhile, prepare the fish: cut the dorsal fin into

pieces and halve the head. Wash and add to

the boiling stock.

Simmer for approximately 1 hour, skimming from

time to time.

Strain through a chinois, then again through an

etamine, and reduce by half to obtain 2/3 to 6/7 cup

of fumet in the end.

Refrigerate.

WHITEFISH FUMET

5 1/2lbs whitefish bones • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 choppedleek (green part) •2 3/4oz coarsely chopped carrots • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 ripe tomato • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper

BASIC RECIPES

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MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

DISH ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUNG DRÔME GUINEAFOWL IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILLAND TAHITIAN VANILLA

GUINEA FOWL

COLD

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

APSWEET CHOCOMOLE

CHINESE FLAT NOODLES

SIDES —

RED CHARLES SALAD

COLD

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DILL, SHISHO, TAHITIAN VANILLA

AVOCADO, BALSAMIC VINEGAR, RED AND GREEN TABASCO, TOMATO CONCENTRATE

—

HAZELNUT PRALINE 60%

DISH

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, SMOKED GANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

LEAN PANCETTA

COLD

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

THE MUMS SANDWICH GRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE,SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

SALMON

—

RED CABBAGE

COLD

GRENOBLE WALNUT

CUMIN, POWDERED MUSTARD, CORIANDER SEEDS

DARK

CACAO NIBS, KKO OIL

DISH CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRASMORSELS, HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBISMAURY WINE GELATIN

GOOSE FOIE GRAS

COLD

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

KADAÏF DOUGH

MAURY WINE

FLAVOR COMBINATIONSHORS D’ŒUVRES

286

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DISH QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILKCHOCOLATE, TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITHFRESH HERBS, AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITHPURPLE BASIL

TOMATOES, CELERY

COLD

MILK DARK

JIVARA 40% MANJARI 64%

NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATEAND CARAWAY, SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOURBERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISPLACE OF TOASTED BREAD

FOIE GRAS

BREAD APRICOTS, RAISINS, TOASTED BREAD

COLD

TABASCO, PURPLE BASIL

MAURY WINE

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

DISH BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATESHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHOPEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE

BLUEFIN TUNA

COLD

SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATERGELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS, CHOCOLATECHANTILLY WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET

CRAB

CRISPY FRIED RICE SEA LETTUCE TEMPURA

COLD

CITRUS, JAPANESE SANCHO,

YUZU, MATCHA GREEN TEA

TOMATOES, PIQUILLO PEPPERS, SWEET CHORIZO

DARK

MANJARI 64%

DISH FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCKSHAVINGS WITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKSIN SOY VINAIGRETTE

HADDOCK

HOT / COLD

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

BLANCHED LEEKS

SOY SAUCE, PINK PEPPER

COLD APPETIZERS

WHITE DARK

IVOIRE 40% KKO OIL

287

DISH DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME,GINGER AND SOY SAUCE

DUCK

HOT

DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66%

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE,VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHESTRUFFLE, IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE

OXTAIL

SOYBEAN SPROUTS

CARROTS, BEANS

HOT

TOASTED SESAME, GINGER

RICHERENCES TRUFFLE, VEGETABLES

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE,BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES, LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS

CRAYFISH

PIKE QUENELLES

HOT

COGNAC, ESPELETTE PEPPER

LAIT

JIVARA 40%

DISH

ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES, PARMESAN TUILES

SMOKED RACK OF PORK

HOT

MILK DARK

MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICYCHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ, SPRING RAIN CRISP

MUSSELS

PARMESAN TUILES

SOY VERMICELLI

HOT

ANIS, PARMESAN

COCONUT MILK, BOMBAY CURRY

DISH ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTEDPORCINI MUSHROOMS, CRISPY CHOCOLATECARAMEL LEAVES

GRAZAC ESCARGOTS

HOT

FRESH ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS

PINE NEEDLES, DRIED PORCINIS,

CARAMEL

HOT APPETIZERS

JIVARA 40% XOCOPILI 72%

DARK MILK

XOCOPILI 72% JIVARA 40%

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DARK DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66% ARAGUANI 72%

288

DISH SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITHLEMONGRASS, SWEET AND SOUR MANGOJULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMED CHOCOLATESAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES

BAY SCALLOPS

HOT

DARK

MANJARI 64%

A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD,TOASTED PINE NUTS, PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

RED GURNARD

MANGO JULIENNE

TOASTED PINE NUTS

HOT

CARAMEL, GINGER, ORANGE, LEMONGRASS, CUBEB PEPPER, PRALINE

VANILLA, PASSION FRUIT, GINGER, TAMARIND

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

WHITE

IVOIRE 40%

STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISPSKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE, LAÏ CHUREDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUANPEPPER

COD

SEA LETTUCE, NEW GARLIC CHIPS

HOT

SZECHUAN PEPPER, LAÏ CHU RICE WINE

DARK

KKO OIL

DISH

LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCEAMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL ANDCHOCOLATE, POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON,RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS

NORWAY LOBSTER

HOT

POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITECHOCOLATE WITH LEMON AND VERBENA, BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH

LOBSTER

POLENTA FINGERS, LEEKS

FRESH SPINACH

HOT

RED PEPPERS, SWEET PAPRIKA,

SAFFRON

LEMON LEAVES, LEMON JUICE, LEMON ZEST, FRESH VERBENA

DISH GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED TWOCHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHASAFFRON FRAGRANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE

RED MULLET

HOT

MARBLED COCOA LASAGNE

LIME ZEST, LA MANCHA SAFFRON

WATER

DARK DARK

MANJARI 64% GRUÉ DE CACAO

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MILK DARK

JIVARA 40% MANJARI 64%

289

SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAOAND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS

SCALLOPS

HOT

PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEWGARLIC, COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME,FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK

FROG LEGS

FENNEL

POTATO PUREE, GREEN BEANS

HOT

LONG PEPPER, PISTACHIO, LEAN PANCETTA, FENNEL SEEDS

WILD THYME, CACAO NIB INFUSION

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATEPOLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE,FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICEDCHOCOLATE FLAKES

TURBOT

HOT

IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS

MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER

CHOCOLATE POLENTA, TARO AND TAMARILLO BRUNOISE

PUFF PASTRY, PEAS

HOT

PISTACHIO, CARDAMOM, PAPRIKA, RED CURRY…

MEAUX MUSTARD GRAINS

DARK DARK

GUANAJA 70% CACAO NIBS

DARK DARK

ARAGUANI 72% XOCOPILI 72%

DARK DARK

GUANAJA 70% CACAO NIBS

DARK —

GUANAJA 70% NUTTY PRALINE 50%

290

DISH GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATESAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE, HERB POTATOTRANSPARENCY AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

LAMB

HOT

VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLAAND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM

VEAL SHANK

POTATO TRANSPARENCY, ASPARAGUS, PURPLE ARTICHOKES

—

HOT

FRESH SAGE, FLAT PARSLEY

TAHITIAN VANILLA, RUM, WHOLE ALMONDS,

RAISINS

FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET ANDSOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASSALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE, BEAN SPROUTS

PORK FILET MIGNON

ROASTED PINEAPPLE, BEAN SPROUTS

HOT

GARAM MASSALA

DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66%

DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66%

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66%

DISH

FILET OF VENISON BREADED L’ÀNGLAISE, PURPLEPURÉE AND CELERIAC, SWEET AND SOURGRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

VENISON

HOT

SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDSCHUTNEY, SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES, LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND VIOLET MUSTARD

FOWL FOIES BLONDS

PURPLE PUREE AND CELERIAC

CRANBERRIES

HOT

GRIOTTE CHERRIES, CORNAS WINE (O7)

SHALLOTS, WINE

DISH MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS,VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH

MALLARD

HOTCARROTS, DAIKON RADISHES, ZUCCHINI, PATTYPAN SQUASH

CACAO NIBS, RED WINE

EARTH

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DARK DARK

ARAGUANI 72% CACAO NIBS

DARK MILK

MANJARI 64% JIVARA 40%

291

SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ONTHE BONE, SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFFPASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVES

SQUAB OF BRESSE

HOT

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS ANDPISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE

DUCK

PUFF PASTRY, BRAISED ENDIVES

SICILIAN PISTACHIOS

HOT

JUS REDUCTION, WHITE WINE

FRESH AND DRIED APRICOTS

STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITHCACAO NIBS, CRISP BABY VEGETABLES ANDROSEMARY RABBIT JUS EMULSIFIED WITHCHOCOLATE

RABBIT

SNOW PEAS, RATTES POTATOES

HOT

ROSEMARY

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

SYLVAIN VERGNES’ PORK KNUCKLES WITHCHOCOLATE AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES

PORK KNUCKLE

HOT

BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATESAUCE WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROTJULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

BEEF RACK OF RIBS

LEEKS, CELERY, CARROTS, JAUNE BOULD D’OR TURNIPS, POTATOES

JULIENNED CARROTS

HOT

TOASTED EARS OF WHEAT, HAY,

SPELT WHEAT

COFFEE, ORANGE ZEST, CARDAMOM

ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED INPANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED WITH CHOCOLATE,BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILDMUSHROOMS

HARE

HOTBRAISED CELERY, SWEATED SPINACH,

SAUTÉED WILD MUSHROOMSRED WINE

DARK DARK

CACAO NIBS KKO OIL

292

DISH PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OFLEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH WALNUTSAND SAUTÉED, WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPYHAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

PICODON OF ARDÈCHE

COLD

ENDIVES, CURED HAM

GRENOBLE WALNUTS

DARK

CACAO NIBS

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT ANDCACAO NIBS, CURED WITH WHISKY

CAMEMBERT

COLDRAISINS, DRIED APRICOTS,

ALMONDSWHISKY

CHEESES

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DISH GIN TONIC

GRAPEFRUITS

COLD

THE BLACK FOREST…IN’

WOLFBERGER GRIOTISSIMO CHERRIES

CARAMELIZED PHYLLO DOUGH

VANILLA CREAM

COLD

GIN

ALSATIAN KIRSCH

WHITE

IVOIRE 40%

DISH

MONT BLANC CLUB

CHESTNUTS, CELERY STALKS

COLD

NIPPON

FROZEN CHOCOLATE PARFAIT

CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE

FRESH LYCHEES

COLD

ALMONDS, CHOCOLATE

GINGER, TOASTED SESAME

SWEET DELIGHTS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

DARK WHITE

PUR CARAÏBE 66% IVOIRE 40%

DARK DARK

ARAGUANI 72% CACAO EN POUDRE

MILK WHITE

TANARIVA 33% IVOIRE 40%

293

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORTNUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE

ROQUEFORT PAPILLON

DWARF CAVENDISH BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE

HOT

CHEESE

DARK DARK

ARAGUANI 72% KKO OIL

THE NEW WORLD

CHOCOLATE TRIO

VINE PEACHES

COLD

HONEY, MENTON LEMON,

LAVENDER

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

KOUIKARAS ISLAND

FLOATING ISLAND, CHOCOLATE CREAM

COLD

FRIED KOUIKARAS DOUGH

PURE CHOCOLATE

DARK MILK

GUANAJA 70%,MANJARI 64%

JIVARA 40%

THE MILKY WAY

RAW MILK

FRESH RASPBERRIES

COLD

CORIANDER SEEDS

DARK MILK

ARAGUANI 72% GIANDUJA

294

DISH LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

WHITE CHOCOLATE

COLD

IRISH COFFEE CUBE

WHISKY

—

—

COLD

LICORICE POWDER

COFFEE

VERBENA

VERBENA

—

COLD

LEMON JUICE

DARK

GUANAJA 70%

DARK

MANJARI 64%

MILK

HOLLOW CHOCOLATE BALLS

DISH

GOLD BULLION

MARSHMALLOW

COLD

—

—

DISH

CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

CHOCOLAT

COLD

SPECULOS COOKIE DOUGH

CINNAMON, DEMERARA SUGAR

MIGNARDISES

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH

HOT / COLD

KIND

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS

SIDES

DOMINANT FLAVORS

WHITE DARK

IVOIRE 40% CARAÏBE 66%

MILK DARK

TANARIVA 33% CACAO NIBS

WHITE —

IVOIRE 40% NUTTY PRALINE 50%

OVALIS TONKA

TONKA BEAN CARAMEL

COLD

CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

CARAMEL

295

DARK DARK

PUR CARAÏBE 66% EXTRA BITTER 67%

SYDNEY

CHOCOLATE

COLD

HIBISCUS

HIBISCUS

— —

COLD

— LEMON JUICE

WHITE

HOLLOW CHOCOLATE BALLS

PUZZLE

MARSHMALLOW

—

COLD

DEMERARA SUGAR

DARK

ARAGUANI 72%

296

PREPARATION INDEX

BREADSBAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS

BREAD; CRISP LACE OF TOASTED

BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS; TOASTED

CHEESESCAMEMBERT

PICODONS

ROQUEFORT; CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH

COMPOTES AND PURÉESCOMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS; SWEET

AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE; SHALLOT

AND GRIOTTE CHERRY

GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS AND RAISINS

GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE

AND CHOCOLATE

MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG

PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM; CELERIAC

PURÉE; "GREEN PEACE" (SWEET PEAS)

PURÉE; PURPLE (RED BEET)

PURÉE; RASPBERRY

TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA; RED PEPPER

CREAMY PREPARATIONSCARAMEL; TONKA BEAN

CREAM; CHESTNUT

CREAM; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE

CREAM WITH CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE

CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC

CRUSHED AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE

GANACHE

GANACHE; SMOKED

GANACHE; TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE

GANACHE; WALNUT

NOUGAT OF FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE

PRALINE CREAM WITH BALSAMIC NOTES

PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO

TOFU OF CHOCOLATE

DECORATIVE ELEMENTSBITTER CHOCOLATE CURLS WITH ROASTED

PARMESAN

CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

CHOCOLATE PANELS

COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE

COD SKIN GAUFRETTES

CRISPY BALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF

CRISPY HAM

CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE

CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES

OPERA GLAZE

PARMESAN TUILES

POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS

PURE CHOCOLATE COOKIE-CUTTER

SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES

SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY

WITH WALNUTS

82

97

93

234

238

242

83

185

97

185

174

184

179

185

273

141

277

248

283

248

252

79

96

70

280

238

96

79

78

108

114

269

277

257

260

162

87

239

142

105

280

115

188

278

147

71

SPRING RAIN CRISP

SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES

TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS

ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATE SPHERES

WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA

AND SANCHO PEPPER

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA

AND TOASTED SESAME

FILLINGSALMOND STREUSEL

CREAMY HEART OF DARK CHOCOLATE

DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY

DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME

FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS,

DUCK CANNELLONI

FILLING; THE RABBIT AND

WALNUT GANACHE

FISHCOD (COOKING THE FISH)

COD FUMET

COD SKIN GAUFRETTES

FROG AND THE STOCK

FROG LEGS WITH TOASTED CORN FLOUR;

BREADED

FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO; CREAMY,

FOAMY

FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER; CREAMY

HADDOCK; PLEATED

MONKFISH LIVER AND CHEEKS; SAUTÉED

PIKE QUENELLES; BEIGNETS OF

RED GURNARD

RED MULLETS AND FUMET

SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED BY GRAVLAX

TUNA TATAKI

TURBOT

FOAMY PREPARATIONSCHANTILLY

CHANTILLY WITH KIRSCH

CREAM WITH ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE

CREAMY FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER

CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET AND FUMET

WITH PISTACHIO

FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE

WITH FENNEL SEEDS

FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL; VEGETABLE

GANACHE "CHANTILLY" OF CRAB

AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED

GANACHE; WHIPPED DARK CHOCOLATE

MOUSSE AND CREAM; CHOCOLATE-CORIANDER

MOUSSE; HOT CHOCOLATE

MOUSSE; LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITE

CHOCOLATE

MOUSSE; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA

ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON AND FRESH VERBENA;

WHITE CHOCOLATE

PARFAIT; FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATE

FRUITSAPRICOTS; CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR

APRICOTS AND RAISINS; GASTRIQUE OF

AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE; CRUSHED

BANANAS; SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH

CHESTNUT CREAM AND FRESH CHESTNUTS

CITRUS JUICE; EXOTIC

DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY

GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC; CREAMY

GRAPEFRUIT SEMI-CONFIT; MOSAIC OF

GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE;

SHALLOT AND

GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE

AND CHOCOLATE

LYCHEES WITH GINGER CARAMEL; FRESH

SAUTÉED

MANGO JULIENNE; SWEET AND SOUR

ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH

PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE

PEACHES PRICKED WITH FRESH LAVENDER;

BROCHETTES OF VINE

PINEAPPLE; SWEET AND SOUR ROAST

RASPBERRY PURÉE

WALNUT GANACHE

GELATINSDARK CHOCOLATE GELATIN

DIAMOND GELATIN OF MENTON LEMON

AND HONEY

MAURY GELATIN

RAW MILK GELATIN

SUPPLE GELATIN "GRAND CRU"

TOMATO WATER GELATIN

WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS

WHISKY GELATIN

HOT AND COLD SAUCESBÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE

BÉCHAMEL… BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX

MUSTARD

CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE

CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE

CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT SAUCE

CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID

CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE (ALMOST

MAYONNAISE), LAÏ CHU REDUCTION

CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE… JUST AS I HAD

DREAMT OF IT BEFORE

CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE (FOR COATING)

CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE

COOKING JUICES OF THE HARE, EMULSIFIED

WITH CHOCOLATE

CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC

DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET

WITH LEMON ZESTS AND SAFFRON

GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE

GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES

GINGER SOY SAUCE

HIBISCUS NECTAR

127

130

93

268

71

100

261

268

174

234

118

216

228

238

162

162

162

174

175

166

163

109

179

135

150

158

82

100

166

278

257

265

163

166

171

93

104

256

272

86

276

253

155

260

216

97

79

243

248

101

234

252

253

185

185

260

147

265

150

269

204

273

238

272

268

86

272

268

104

282

217

179

146

221

208

75

163

83

242

188

224

252

201

159

204

92

119

283

297

NANTUA SAUCE; FOAMY

PASSION FRUIT AND

CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE

PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE

RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU

CHOCOLATE AND CORAL

SOY VINAIGRETTE

SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ

SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE

VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE; VEAL SHANK WITH

VERBENA NECTAR

MEATSESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES; GRAZAC

HARE À LA ROYALE

LAMB

LAMB JUS

OXTAIL (COOKING THE MEAT)

PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE

PORK KNUCKLES

RABBIT; SADDLE OF

RACK OF PORK; ANISE-SMOKED

SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK

VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE

VENISON BREADED À L'ANGLAISE

PASTA AND CEREALSCANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS

LASAGNE; MARBLED

NOODLES; CRISPY PAPRIKA

POLENTA; CHOCOLATE

POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE

RISOTTO; GREEN

RISOTTO; MILK CHOCOLATE AND ANISE

SQUARES; CRISPY

SUSHI; FRIED

WHEAT SAUCE; CHOCOLATE AND

POULTRYCANETTE FILETS; ROASTED

DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

FOIE GRAS; CRISPY MORSELS OF

FOIE WITH SALT; MARINATED

FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN

GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS

AND VANILLA; SUPRÊMES OF POACHED

MALLARD FILETS

SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

SQUABS

REDUCTIONSJUICE; EXOTIC CITRUS

REDUCTION; LAÏ CHU

SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE

SYRUP; CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED

IN LIGHT CITRUS

SAVORY DOUGHSCRUST; CACAO NIBS AND SALT

INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS

PASTILLES

PUFF PASTRY BASES

SOUFFLÉ DOUGH

SHELLFISHBAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMONGRASS

CORAL; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND

CRU CHOCOLATE AND

CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED GANACHE

"CHANTILLY" OF

CRAB WITH FUMET; SHREDDED

CRAYFISH FUMET

LOBSTERS AND FUMET; THE

MUSSELS

NORWAY LOBSTER; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF

NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS

SCALLOPS "SURF AND TURF"; BREADED

SIDESBABY FENNEL "AU BLANC"

CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE

MARBLED LASAGNE

POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON

SEA LETTUCE LEAVES

SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS

AND ASPARAGUS)

SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES,

SNOW PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT)

SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE

TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS,

RAPESEED OIL

VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH

STOCKS AND JUSFUMET; COD

FUMET; CRAYFISH

FUMET; LOBSTER

FUMET; RED MULLETS AND

FUMET; SHREDDED CRAB WITH

JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY; RABBIT

JUS WITH CHOCOLATE; DUCK

JUS; LAMB

STOCK PERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS;

FOAMY FROG

STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK;

VEGETABLE

STOCK WITH TRUFFLE; VEGETABLE

STOCK; FROG AND THE

STOCK; SPARE RIBS WITH

WATER; TOMATO

SWEET DOUGHSCIGARETTE PASTE; COCOA

COOKIE DOUGH

DACQUOISE; CHOCOLATE

FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER

GÉNOISE CAKE WITH CACAO AND ALMONDS

KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER

MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE

MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE

PHYLLO CRISPS

SABLÉ OF ALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILK

CHOCOLATE; COMPRESSED

SABLÉ WITH NUTTY PRALINE; SUPPLE

SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE

SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE

VEGETABLESASPARAGUS; BOILED

BABY FENNEL "AU BLANC"

BEAN SPROUTS; SAUTÉED

CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

CELERIAC; BRAISED

CELERIAC PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM

CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH

CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED

IN LIGHT CITRUS SYRUP

ENDIVE LEAVES

ENDIVES; BRAISED

GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES

GINGER SOY SAUCE

"GREEN PEACE" PURÉE (SWEET PEAS)

GREEN PEAS; TENDER

LEEK JULIENNE; CRISPY

MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTER WITH FRESH

SPINACH LEAVES; SEASONAL

PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE

PORCINIS; SAUTÉED

POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS

POTATOES WITH FROG; MASHED

PURPLE PURÉE (RED BEET)

RED CABBAGE COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER

SEEDS; SWEET AND SOUR

RED PEPPER TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA

SEA LETTUCE LEAVES

SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE

WITH CORNAS WINE

SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS

AND ASPARAGUS)

SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE PORK KNUCKLES

SOY VINAIGRETTE

SOYBEAN SPROUTS

SPINACH WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER;

SAUTÉED FRESH

SPRING LEEKS

TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS,

RAPESEED OIL

TOMATO; PRALINE CREAM WITH

TOMATO WATER

VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL

VEGETABLE STOCK WITH CURRY AND

COCONUT MILK

VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE

VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH

VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT

(POTATOES, SNOW PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT)

134

150

130

229

140

140

108

126

213

269

192

283

131

224

188

188

122

204

208

228

114

220

192

184

216

158

105

167

142

123

135

114

78

101

208

216

201

86

96

197

74

200

213

213

101

163

147

249

200

178

118

212

196

146

140

104

104

134

154

126

140

142

170

170

220

142

158

142

163

189

229

147

167

201

162

134

154

158

104

229

201

188

175

126

122

174

220

79

260

278

248

265

256

264

279

281

252

272

282

276

280

159

170

204

220

225

184

248

249

239

212

92

119

179

217

142

224

130

131

188

174

185

83

141

163

185

189

208

108

119

155

108

167

78

79

93

126

122

201

229

298

ALPHABETICAL INDEX

A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, TOASTED PINE NUTS, PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED WITH CHOCOLATE, BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILD MUSHROOMS

ALMOND STREUSEL

ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES, PARMESAN TUILES

APRICOTS; CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR

APRICOTS AND RAISINS; GASTRIQUE OF

APSWEET CHOCOMOLEASPARAGUS; BOILED

AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE; CRUSHED

BABY FENNEL «AU BLANC»

BAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS

BANANAS; SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH

BAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMONGRASS

BEAN SPROUTS; SAUTÉED

BÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE

BÉCHAMEL… BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD

BITTER CHOCOLATE CURLS WITH ROASTED PARMESAN

BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO PEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE

BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

BREAD; CRISP LACE OF TOASTED

BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS; TOASTED

CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

CAMEMBERT

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT AND CACAO NIBS, CURED WITH WHISKY

CANETTE FILETS; ROASTED

CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS

CARAMEL; TONKA BEAN

CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE

CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

CELERIAC; BRAISED

CELERIAC PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM

CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH

CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED IN LIGHT

CITRUS SYRUP

CHANTILLY

CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTERCHANTILLY WITH KIRSCH

CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS, HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBIS MAURY WINE GELATIN

CHESTNUT CREAM AND FRESH CHESTNUTS

CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE

CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT SAUCE

CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID

CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE (ALMOST MAYONNAISE),

LAÏ CHU REDUCTION

CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE… JUST AS I HAD DREAMT

OF IT BEFORE

CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE (FOR COATING)

CHOCOLATE PANELS

CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE

CIGARETTE PASTE; COCOA

CITRUS JUICE; EXOTIC

COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE

COD (COOKING THE FISH)

COD FUMET

COD SKIN GAUFRETTES

148

222

268

113

216

97

76

15979

170

82

243

146

204

217

179

114

98

218

97

93

269

277

234

233

216

216

277

146

220

225

184

248

249

278

278257

85

248

221

208

75

163

83

242

257

188

260

101

260

162

162

162

COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS; SWEET

AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE; SHALLOT

AND GRIOTTE CHERRY

COOKIE DOUGH

COOKING JUICES OF THE HARE, EMULSIFIED

WITH CHOCOLATE

CORAL; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU

CHOCOLATE AND

CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED GANACHE

«CHANTILLY» OF

CRAB WITH FUMET; SHREDDED

CRAYFISH FUMET

CREAM; CHESTNUT

CREAM; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE

CREAM WITH CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE

CREAM WITH ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE

CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE, BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES, LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS

CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO

CREAMY FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER

CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC

CREAMY HEART OF DARK CHOCOLATE

CRISPY BALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORT NUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE

CRISPY HAM

CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE

CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES

CRUSHED AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE

CRUST; CACAO NIBS AND SALT

DACQUOISE; CHOCOLATE

DARK CHOCOLATE GELATIN

DIAMOND GELATIN OF MENTON LEMON AND HONEY

DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE

DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME

DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME, GINGER AND SOY SAUCE

EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET WITH LEMON

ZESTS AND SAFFRON

ENDIVE LEAVES

ENDIVES; BRAISED

ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES; GRAZAC

FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGS WITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKS IN SOY VINAIGRETTE

FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET AND SOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE, A FEW BEAN SPROUTS

FILET OF VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE AND CELERIAC PURÉES, SWEET AND SOUR GRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS,

DUCK CANNELLONI

FILLING; THE RABBIT AND

FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER

FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE

WITH FENNEL SEEDS

FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL; VEGETABLE

FOIE GRAS; CRISPY MORSELS OF

FOIE WITH SALT; MARINATED

FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN

FROG AND THE STOCK

FROG LEGS WITH TOASTED CORN FLOUR; BREADED

FUMET; COD

FUMET; CRAYFISH

FUMET; LOBSTER

FUMET; RED MULLETS AND

FUMET; SHREDDED CRAB WITH

FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO; CREAMY, FOAMY

FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER; CREAMY

GANACHE

GANACHE; SMOKED

GANACHE; TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE

GANACHE; WALNUT

GANACHE; WHIPPED DARK CHOCOLATE

GANACHE «CHANTILLY» OF CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET;

WHIPPED

GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE

GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS AND RAISINS

GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES

GÉNOISE CAKE WITH CACAO AND ALMONDS

GIN TONICGINGER SOY SAUCE

GOLD BULLIONGRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC; CREAMY

GRAPEFRUIT SEMI-CONFIT; MOSAIC OF

«GREEN PEACE» PURÉE (SWEET PEAS)

GREEN PEAS; TENDER

GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHA SAFFRON FRAGANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE

GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE, HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCY AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE;

SHALLOT AND

GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE

AND CHOCOLATE

GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS AND VANILLA;

SUPRÊMES OF POACHED

HADDOCK; PLEATED

HARE À LA ROYALE

HIBISCUSHIBISCUS NECTAR

IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS

INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS

IRISH COFFEE CUBEJUICE; EXOTIC CITRUS

JUS; LAMB

JUS WITH CHOCOLATE; DUCK

JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY; RABBIT

KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER

KOUIKARAS ISLANDLADDER FOR CLIMBING THE «WHITES»LAMB

LAMB JUS

LASAGNE; MARBLED

LEEK JULIENNE; CRISPY

LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE, POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, BELL PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS

LOBSTERS AND FUMET; THE

LYCHEES WITH GINGER CARAMEL; FRESH SAUTÉED

MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS, VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH

MALLARD FILETS

MANGO JULIENNE; SWEET AND SOUR

MARBLED LASAGNE

MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE

83

185

278

224

140

104

104

134

248

283

248

265

133

166

163

252

174

87

240

239

142

105

79

200

248

272

268

234

214

118

201

116

159

239

212

131

107

203

182

216

228

265

171

93

86

96

197

174

175

162

134

154

158

104

166

163

96

70

280

238

256

104

204

97

92

256

251119

281252

253

179

217

157

187

185

185

74

109

224

283283

176

178

282101

188

201

229

264

263276188

188

158

142

138

154

260

198

200

147

158

279

299

MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE

MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG

MAURY GELATIN

MONKFISH LIVER AND CHEEKS; SAUTÉED

MONT BLANC CLUBMOUSSE; HOT CHOCOLATE

MOUSSE; LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITE CHOCOLATE

MOUSSE; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA

MOUSSE AND CREAM; CHOCOLATE-CORIANDER

MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTER WITH FRESH SPINACH

LEAVES; SEASONAL

MUSSELS

MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ, SPRING RAIN CRISP

NANTUA SAUCE; FOAMY

NIPPONNOODLES; CRISPY PAPRIKA

NORWAY LOBSTER; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF

NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS

NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE AND CARAWAY, SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR BERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISP LACE OF TOASTED BREAD

NOUGAT OF FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE

ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON AND FRESH VERBENA;

WHITE CHOCOLATE

OPERA GLAZE

ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH

ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUG DRÔME GUINEA FOWL IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL AND TAHITIAN VANILLA

OVALIS TONKAOXTAIL (COOKING THE MEAT)

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, SMOKED GANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

PARFAIT; FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATE

PARMESAN TUILES

PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE

PASTILLES

PEACHES PRICKED WITH FRESH LAVENDER;

BROCHETTES OF VINE

PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC, COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME, FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK

PHYLLO CRISPS

PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OF LEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH WALNUTS AND SAUTÉED, WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

PICODONS

PIKE QUENELLES; BEIGNETS OF

PINEAPPLE; SWEET AND SOUR ROAST

POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH LEMON AND VERBENA, BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH

POLENTA; CHOCOLATE

POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON

PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE

PORCINIS; SAUTÉED

PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE

PORK KNUCKLES

POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS

POTATOES WITH FROG; MASHED

PRALINE CREAM WITH BALSAMIC NOTES

PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO

PUFF PASTRY BASES

PURE CHOCOLATE COOKIE-CUTTER

PURÉE; «GREEN PEACE» (SWEET PEAS)

PURÉE; PURPLE (RED BEET)

PURÉE; RASPBERRY

PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM; CELERIAC

PURPLE PURÉE (RED BEET)

PUZZLEQUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILK CHOCOLATE, TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS, AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL

RABBIT; SADDLE OF

RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY

RACK OF PORK; ANISE-SMOKED

RASPBERRY PURÉE

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE, VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE, IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE

RAW MILK GELATIN

RED CABBAGE COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS;

SWEET AND SOUR

RED GURNARD

RED MULLETS AND FUMET

RED PEPPER TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA

REDUCTION; LAÏ CHU

RISOTTO; GREEN

RISOTTO; MILK CHOCOLATE AND ANISE

ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS, RISPY CHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVES

ROQUEFORT; CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH

SABLÉ OF ALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILK CHOCOLATE;

COMPRESSED

SABLÉ WITH NUTTY PRALINE; SUPPLE

SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE

SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE

SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED BY GRAVLAX

SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS, SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER

SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU CHOCOLATE

AND CORAL

SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES

SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY, SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES, LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND VIOLET MUSTARD

SCALLOPS «SURF AND TURF»; BREADED

SEA LETTUCE LEAVES

SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE

WITH CORNAS WINE

SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS, CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET

SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS AND ASPARAGUS)

SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE PORK KNUCKLES

SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES, SNOW

PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT)

SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS

SOUFFLÉ DOUGH

SOY VINAIGRETTE

SOYBEAN SPROUTS

SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK

SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ

SPINACH WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER; SAUTÉED FRESH

SPRING LEEKS

SPRING RAIN CRISP

SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ON THE BONE, SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF PASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVES

SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

SQUABS

SQUARES; CRISPY

STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE, LAÏ CHU REDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN PEPPER

STOCK; FROG AND THE

STOCK; SPARE RIBS WITH

STOCK PERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS; FOAMY FROG

STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK; VEGETABLE

STOCK WITH TRUFFLE; VEGETABLE

STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITH CACAO NIBS, CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND ROSEMARY JUS EMULSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATE

SUPPLE GELATIN «GRAND CRU»

SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAO AND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS

SUSHI; FRIED

SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE

SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES

SYDNEYSYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORK KNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES

SYRUP; CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED

IN LIGHT CITRUS

TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA; RED PEPPER

TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS, RAPESEED OIL

THE BLACK FOREST…IN’THE MILKY WAYTHE MUMS SANDWICH: GRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE, SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

THE NEW WORLD

TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS

TOFU OF CHOCOLATE

TOMATO; PRALINE CREAM WITH

TOMATO WATER

TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS

TUNA TATAKI

TURBOT

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATE POLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE, FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED CHOCOLATE FLAKES

TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE

ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATE SPHERES

VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE; VEAL SHANK WITH

VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM

VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE

VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL

VEGETABLE STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK

VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE

VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH

VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES, SNOW PEAS,

SHALLOTS, CARROT)

VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE

VERBENAVERBENA NECTAR

WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

WALNUT GANACHE

WATER; TOMATO

WHEAT SAUCE; CHOCOLATE AND

WHISKY GELATIN

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA

AND SANCHO PEPPER

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA AND TOASTED

SESAME

281

174

86

179

24686

276

253

272

224

126

125

134

259105

140

142

95

96

155

280

265

73

277122

68

260

115

150

118

269

173

252

236

238

135

204

153

167

142

130

131

204

208

188

174

79

78

212

278

179

185

273

184

185

27990

228

229

114

273

123

121

272

83

150

158

141

163

135

114

128

242

272

282

276

280

82

145

140

140

147

194

170

163

185

103

189

208

229

71

196

108

119

220

126

155

108

127

210

213

213

78

160

174

220

175

126

122

227

268

168

101

147

130

280207

249

141

167

25427081266

93

108

78

79

104

100

166

165

269

268

192

191

192

93

126

122

201

229

184

283283

71

238

79

208

282

100

261

300

TO BE ABLE TO SAY THANKS

To thank someone is an opportunity – one of life’sprivileges. It’s a sign of our happiness of being“indebted” to someone. We all know that mutualgenerosity is not always automatic. However, along the path of life the occasions to say “thank you” or “you’re welcome” seem to multiply in dailyexchanges, with those we love, with those we work, or simply with those whose paths we cross. Often, the thanks is accompanied by a smile and, in particular, a reciprocal sense of satisfaction; this is the day-to-day delight that unfortunately we don’t always take advantage of. For me, to write a book comes from the desire to transmit ideas, to enrich someone’s life. Someone, otherwise put, are all those who place their confidence in us to train and educate them, or those who simply put their time into reading works like this. Perhaps it is also the desire to leave a trace of oneselfbehind, not for egocentric gratification, but simply to continue to exist “a little while longer” in the heartsand minds of others.I’d like to take this opportunity, to use this page thathas been allocated to me, to express my deep gratitudeto certain people along the way.A book is made up of little fragments of life, of encounters, of women and men who appreciate and trust each other. It also seems to me that a book is made up of dreams. It is an amalgamation of desires,convictions, feelings… and talents as well.

Chocolate Fusion is my desire, just a desire.

Paco Marfull, Javier Antoja, René Palomo and Cèlia PujalsA desire that only begins to crystallize with the conviction of an editor.Talent begins with the sense of the projection of one’s plan. Paco and Javier, you had already put your trust in me seven years ago for the publication of Au coeur des saveurs. Seven years later, with a rare type ofconfidence, bordering on a break from convention,you accepted to follow me once again, allowing me find my way with almost total freedom – a raregraciousness that one wouldn’t expect from an editor.The trust you have shown me is immense, and wouldhave been blind had you not steered me back on trackfrom time to time!To you, Cèlia, Paco and René, I want say how grateful I am for your work, your ability to listen, andespecially for your patience. Thank you, Cèlia, in particular for having played the role of “mom”during the creation of this book. Your delicate authority and sharp attention to detailhave left me with enduring memories.

Jean Bernard LassaraIn my opinion, it is the photography that really givesdimension to the ideas in the preparation of a book,the fourth dimension maybe. The photographer marksthe time period with his style, his light and his eye. Created with Jean Bernard, this book was an adventureof life for me, a supplementary adventure. We spenthundreds of hours together, day and night, hours of preparation, of imagining, coming to an agreementover the spirit of each photo, even better, over the visual spirit of the book. I want to thank you, Jean Bernard, for your generosityand for your respect of other’s ideas. In fact, often times the author is a victim of the photographic style, like an architect that builds his house on top of your own. For me, such an intrusion was unthinkable.You knew how to listen to me, understand me, followme and even say no sometimes as well.With the delicate nature that so characterizes you, you redirected and convinced me almost every timethat your vision was the right one without ever losingsight of my initial ideas. This collaboration, throughmutual respect and trust, will remain an indeliblememory in my mind. “Change your point of view to change your perspective”– a Japanese proverb that fits you perfectly, both in your life as well as your art, thanks to the manner in which you are able combine the two.To create a book where each has space to exist, to transpire one’s own passion; this was my goal.Thank you, Jean Bernard, for having offered me thischance, to live your passion, to see things together.

Jean Luc Grisot, Franck Vidal, Tamar Marchand,Phillipe Givre, Julie Haubourdin, Isabelle Lecomte,Michael Loonis, Michael Verdier, David Capy andSébastien MichelI could never have accomplished this book without the help and contribution of my collaborators, or without the support of my assistant, Phillipe Givre. In fact, thanks to the generosity of Franck Vidal,marketing director, and Jean Luc Grisot, generaldirector of Valrhona, I had a great amount of helpduring this project. I would like to express my sincerest thanks and profound gratitude for all that you have done. Your character and your dailyconsideration of others in your work, thanks to yourintellectual honesty (a rare thing in business), deservethe utmost respect. Thank you for propagating the approach that AntoineDodet initiated at Valrhona, one that proves thatsuccess can be achieved through honesty, respect,listening and sympathy. For a few months while I wrote and prepared the recipes and photos, my assistant Phillipe Givre,

head of the devoted team, made up for my repetitiveabsences. Tamar Marchand, my assistant, worked long-distance with me, always anticipating more and betterwork.I want to thank you all for allowing me to have, thanksto your personal investment and professionalconscience, the calm attitude and necessary time in the preparation of this book.

RikaRika, my wife, has accompanied me in yet anothergourmand adventure.You knew to be there when I needed you, how I needed you, with your words, suggestions andcritiques.You knew to wait up for me, even though I was oftenextremely late, for almost two years.You hade the graciousness to excuse me when I wasn’tthere, my head in other places, tired and distracted.You supported our work and clarified hundreds of attempts of ours with your soothing inspiration. Thank you for being here to share my life with you, as well as my passion for my work.

Hélène and Denis Radisson, Catherine and MauriceMoulin, Annick and Franck Vidal, Héa and Cyril JametMy first attempts at cuisine were all tasted by them,and Rika.All seasoned epicureans, they directed me with theirhedonistic, fair criticism.Thank you all for being there, for the simple love of taking risks, and sharing.

Pierre Orsi, Régis Marcon, Phillipe Girardon, PeterKnipp, Heywin Hellstrom, Pascal Dupuy, RogerVergé, Pierre and Michel Troisgros, GordonRamsay, Alain Dutournier, Paul Bocuse, GuyLassausaie, Mark Decank, Olivier de Montigny,Jeann Garon, Gérard Corchia, Jérémie Gaïk,and so many others, all of you, friends, clients ofValrhona who always dared to taste. Chefs, pastrychefs, epicureans, gastronomes, you have inspired and comforted me with your words and yourappreciation.Thank you for giving me your time and yourwillingness to dare to taste, and for giving your sincereopinion, whatever the result may have been! All the recipes are marked with you and your cherishedreflections.

Pierre Gagnaire, Pierre Hermé I can’t be anything but happy and fulfilled by the confidence that they honor me with by havingaccepted to write the prefaces for this book. I admirethem, as much for their personality as for their style.