Chennai Survival Kit

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Getting To Know - Chennai Table Of Contents Moving around in Chennai.................................... 4 Geography.............................................. 4 General Information.....................................4 How to get there.........................................5 The Language............................................... 6 Greetings In Tamil...................................... 7 Enquiry In Tamil........................................ 7 General Words & Phrases In Tamil.......................... 8 Directions In Tamil..................................... 8 Do and Don’ts...............................................8 Eating out Guide to Chennai.................................10 Fast Food Places....................................17 A Tour of Madras........................................... 19 FORT ST. GEORGE........................................ 20 HIGH COURT COMPLEX..................................... 20 GEORGE TOWN............................................20 CORPORATION COMPLEX....................................21 PANTHEON COMPLEX.......................................21 GOVERNMENT MUSEUM (Pantheon Road).......................22 NATIONAL ART GALLERY................................... 22 KODAMBAKKAM........................................... 23 THE THOMAN TRADITION................................... 23 GUINDY NATIONAL PARK................................... 24 KALAKSHETRA........................................... 24 GOVERNMENT ESTATE......................................26 THE MARINA.............................................27 OTHER BUILDINGS........................................27 Excursions from Madras.....................................28 Mamallapuram (58 km)................................... 28 Pulicat (54 km)........................................ 28 Cholamandalam Artists' Village (28 km).................. 28 Kovalam (43 km)........................................ 28 V.G.P. Golden Beach Resort (30 km).......................29 MGM Dizee World (20 km).................................29 Dakshina Chitra (immediately next to Dizee World).........29 Crocodile Bank (31 km)..................................29 Created For AIESEC, Chennai 1

Transcript of Chennai Survival Kit

Page 1: Chennai Survival Kit

Getting To Know - Chennai

Table Of Contents

Moving around in Chennai...............................................................................................4Geography....................................................................................................................4General Information.....................................................................................................4How to get there...........................................................................................................5

The Language..................................................................................................................6Greetings In Tamil.......................................................................................................7Enquiry In Tamil..........................................................................................................7General Words & Phrases In Tamil.............................................................................8Directions In Tamil......................................................................................................8

Do and Don’ts..................................................................................................................8Eating out Guide to Chennai......................................................................................10

Fast Food Places............................................................................................17A Tour of Madras............................................................................................................19

FORT ST. GEORGE.................................................................................................20HIGH COURT COMPLEX.......................................................................................20GEORGE TOWN......................................................................................................20CORPORATION COMPLEX...................................................................................21PANTHEON COMPLEX..........................................................................................21GOVERNMENT MUSEUM (Pantheon Road).........................................................22NATIONAL ART GALLERY..................................................................................22KODAMBAKKAM..................................................................................................23THE THOMAN TRADITION..................................................................................23GUINDY NATIONAL PARK..................................................................................24KALAKSHETRA......................................................................................................24GOVERNMENT ESTATE.......................................................................................26THE MARINA..........................................................................................................27OTHER BUILDINGS...............................................................................................27

Excursions from Madras.............................................................................................28Mamallapuram (58 km)..........................................................................................28Pulicat (54 km).........................................................................................................28Cholamandalam Artists' Village (28 km).............................................................28Kovalam (43 km).....................................................................................................28V.G.P. Golden Beach Resort (30 km)..................................................................29MGM Dizee World (20 km)....................................................................................29Dakshina Chitra (immediately next to Dizee World)..........................................29Crocodile Bank (31 km)..........................................................................................29Kancheepuram (75 km)..........................................................................................29

Maps.................................................................................................................................31Districts of Tamilnadu.......................................................................................31Map of Chennai.................................................................................................32

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Moving around in Chennai

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Geography

Chennai is located near the 13th north parallel and 80 degree longitude. The city stretches its 19 km length along the Coromandel coast and extends inland about 9 km at its widest. Its irregular shape covers about 172 sq km. It is a fairly low-lying strip of land, its highest point being only 60 m above sea level.

Chennai is trisected by two east-flowing rivers that traverse its width. The Cooum river almost divides the city into half and the Adyar river divides the southern half of the city into two. The historic buckingham canal runs nearly parallel to the coast almost through the entire length of the city.

The city has somewhat ungenerously described as having three seasons - hot, hotter and hottest. Indeed, except for four pleasant months, November to February, the weather is uniformly hot and humid.... May is the hottest season with the mercury sometimes touching 42 C and the mean temperature about 33 C. December and January are the coolest months with a mean temperature of 24 C. Howerver, the cool sea breeze (which sets in shortly after 3 PM daily) makes even the warmest of evenings bearable. But venturing out in between noon and 3 PM during April-August is best avoided.

The Chennai monsoon is from October to mid-December - and in a good year (from the point of view of water-short citizens) the rain on some days during this period can be quite heavy.

General Information

Chennai, (formerly Madras) the first city of Tamil Nadu, is a comparatively new city. The erstwhile villages of Mylapore, Triplicane, Ezhambur (Egmore) etc. all now a part of Chennai, have a recorded historical past centuries older than Chennai. Chennai, the present gateway to the South of India, is itself, however, only about 350 years old.. "Madrassis are zealous gaurdians of Tamil culture which they regard as inherently superior to the hybridized cultures further north. They have, for instance, been among the most vociferous opponents of Hindi being made the national language, and Chennai is the film Center of tamil Nadu - even the State Chief Minister, Jayalalita*, is an ex-movie star."

- Quoted from Lonely Planet, travel guide to India.

Particularly charming features of Chennai are its allegiance to ancient traditions, no matter how modernised it has become, and its willingness to spread out further rather than develop into a multi-storey concrete jungle. The result is a widespread city still open to skies; a green, airy city with several vestiges of its rural past; a city that adheres to the liesurely tempo of life of a world of yesterday; a city whose values of another day still

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survive midst of the humdrum bustle of today; a city that still retains the charm, culture and courtesies of the ages.

How to get there

Many major international airlines have regular direct flights to Chennai. These include: Air India, British Airways, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, Air Lanka and Malasia Airlines. Almost all other international airlines have direct flights to either Delhi or Bombay to which Chennai is well connected by air, rail and road. Indian Airlines has daily flights from Chennai to Bombay and Delhi and most International Airlines will arrange the domestic flight booking with Indian Airlines to Chennai, if you decide to catch their flights to either Bombay or Delhi.

Chennai is connected to all major cities in India by air and its rail and road network make the tiniest village easily accessible by comfortable trains and deluxe buses. Airline resrevations from Chennai can be made at large travel agencies and the respective airlines offices.

Indian Airlines, 19 Marshall's Road, Chennai 600 008.Tel: 8555209 8554285 8554749 8592671

Air India, 19 Marshall's Road, Chennai 600 008.Tel:8554747 (Reservation) 8555013 8552768

Rail reservations can be made at Chennai Central Stations, from 06:30 hrs. to 20:30 hrs. on weekdays and from 07:30 hrs. to 13:00 hrs. on Sundays.

Bus reservations can be made at Thiruvalluvar Transport Corporation, Express Bus Stand, Esplanade, Chennai. Tel: 561835, 561836.

Eye Opener

Orientation: Chennai is, where you can touch the air, taste the rain when the monsoons come, and smell the drenching scent of jasmine everywhere. This is the land where graceful

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women in sarees wake early to clean their courtyards with cow dung, and draw kolams on them--intricate designs with rice flour--while the rest of their families are still asleep. This is the land where every action, from set tiny a wedding date to moving a household, is governed by omens, astrologers, and auspicious hours.

Folks:Although it is the country's fourth largest city, with a cosmopolitan mix of Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Jews, Zoroastrians, and Buddhists, it remains more conservative than New Delhi, Bombay, or Calcutta.

While a teenager from Bombay may strum a guitar and attend rock concerts, teenagers in Madras still learn native music from a guru and attend classical Carnatic concerts.

Women in New Delhi may go to work in westernstyle suits, but the women in Madras still prefer to wear starched cotton sarees. Men in Calcutta may relax at a local club sipping vodka, but the Madrasi prefers his strong south Indian coffee, boiled with milk and flavored with chicory.

Customs:As the rest of India races to modernize and westernize, this southern metropolis clings fiercely to its cultural roots and ancient customs.

Chennai - A Holiday Destination?:With a population of 5.7 million, Madras stretches eight miles along the Coramandel coast of the Bay of Bengal. In such a large city with such an ancient history (it was first settled 5,000 years ago by indigenous people called Dravidians) there is enough to do for a month.But a week's stay makes a good introduction, even if you take it at a leisurely pace. Walk the main roads, talk to the people (most speak English), spend an afternoon or two at a bazaar, visit a temple with traditional Hindu sculptures, go to the beach in the evening as all Madrasis do.

The Language

The Tamil have the oldest cultivated Dravidian language, and their rich literary tradition extends back to the early Christian era. Tamil is one of the five ancient languages, which still retains its originality. This language has the unique distinction of being spoken (to a certain extent) in almost 60 countries. Though it is difficult to trace the origin of the language, ancient literature attributes its origin far beyond Cape Comorin. The dialects of the language have been categorised into five - Kumari, Madurai, Chettiar, Kungu, Thanjai and Chennai Tamil. The differentiation exists as a spoken language, but follows a uniform rule when writing. Another aspect is that it is the only South Indian language that is spoken even outside the Dravidian culture.

Learn a few basic tamil phrases now!

Greetings In Tamil

Hello VanakkamThank You Very Much Unnaku Migavum Nanri

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Goodbye Nalladu, Varugiren How Are You ? Neengal Eppadi Irukirergal ?Fine Thank You Nalam, Nanri Welcome Nalvaravu I Love Chennai Naan Chennaiaye VerumbugirenChennai Is Beautiful Chennai Azhagagha Ulladu Hearty Congratulations Manadhara Vaazhthukiren You Are Beautiful! Neengal Azhaghaga Irukireegal

Enquiry In Tamil

What Is Your Name ? Ungal Peyar Enna? How Do I Go There? Naan Eppadi Anghu Selven? How Much Is This? Idu Enna Vilai?Where Is Your House? Ungaludhaya Veedu Engu Irukiradu? Where Is The Nearest Police Station ? Kaaval Nilayam Arugil Engu Irukiradu?

Where Can I Go Shopping ? Naan Porutkal Vaanga Engu Selvadu?Can You Help Me ? Neengal Ennaku Udavi Seyveergala?How Is Your Health Now ? Ungaludaya Udal Nalam Ippo Ebbide Irikidde? What Are You Doing ? Neengal Enna Seigireergal? Would You Join Me For Lunch Today ? Neengal Enraiku Ennudan Madhya Unavu Sappida

Varuveergala? How Do I Go To The Airport ? Naan Eppadi Vimana Nilayathirku Selvadu?What Are The Tourists Spots Around ? Sutru Vattarathil Payanigal Sutrula Idangal Enna

Irrukiradhu?Where Shall We Meet ? Naam Engu Sandhikalam?When Was This Built ? Idhu Eppodhu Kattiyadhu? Was There A Call For Me? Ennaku Edavadu Azhaipu Erukirada? Where Can I Make A Phone Call Naan Tholai Pesiyil Pesa Engu Pogalam?My Name Is.... Ennudaya Peyar ..

I Am A (Profession) Naan Oru ..(Profession).. Happy To Meet You Unnai Sandhithadil Maghilchi Yes Amaam No Illai

General Words & Phrases In Tamil

Please Thayavu SaiduSorry Varundukiren I Will Come Back Naan Thirumbi Varuven I Want It Ennaku Adhu Vendum I Don't Want It Naan Idhai Virumbavillai This Is Good Yidhu Nanraga Ulladhu Let Us Go Naam SelvomCome Tomorrow Naalai Varavum Get Me A Glass Of Water Ennaku Thannir Kondu Vaa I Want To Try Again Naan Marupadi Muyarchi Seyya Virumbugiren Can I Have The Tariff Card Please Ennaku Tariff Card Tharuveergala?I'ii Meet You At 6.00 In The Evening Naan Maalai Aru Manikku Ungalai Sandipen Please Translate This Into English Edhai Angilathil Mathungal Please Wait Until I Am Back Thayavu Saidu Naan Thirubum Varai Kaathu Irukavum The Weather Is Pleasant Here Engu Vaanilai Midamaga IrukiraduDrive Slowly Meduvaga Ottu Pack These Things Porutkalai Kattu

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How Much Time Will It Take? Etharku Evvalavu Neram Edukkum?What Is The Cost Of This? Yidhan Vilai Enna? How Soon? Evvalavu Sekaram? How Much? Evvalavu?

Directions In Tamil

I Want To Go To... Naan ...(Place) Sella Virumbugiren I Have Lost My Way Naan En Vazhiye Thavari VittenStraight Ahead Neragha SellavumGo To The Left Idadhu Pakkam SellavumGo To The Right Valadhu Pakkam SellavumOpposite Ethir Pakkam Sellavum

Do and Don’ts

LanguageGood news for visitors - you don't need to speak in Tamil to manage your way through Chennai. English will do just fine. And in case you know any other language like Hindi, we still recommend you stick to English.

ClothingThe city is hot and humid. So put away those suits, sweaters and scarves. Chennai has little use for them. We suggest light cottons instead.

TrafficTraffic in the city has, of late, turned unruly. So, if you are motoring down the streets, don't be surprised if pedestrians dart across without warning or motorists overtake from the wrong side.

Public TransportIf you are looking at economical public transport, the In-city Bus service and the suburban Trains will prove ideal. But here again, this is only as long as you avoid the morning and evening rush hours.

AutorickshawsBe warned - autorickshaw drivers here will demand more than the metered rate without batting an eyelid. At all times enter the autorickshaw only after you and the driver are in agreement as to what the fare should be (metered rate, a fixed sum or metered rate plus a few rupees extra). As much as possible, it is always better to hail a moving and vacant autorickshaw, than to try and pick one from a stand.

Drinking WaterUnless you are at a well-run restaurant or hotel, avoid drinking water other than that from sealed water bottles (mineral water).

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Eating out Guide to ChennaiThere was a time when eating out in Chennai (when it was still Madras) meant the local Udipi hotel, or, if you were a carnivore, the local 'Military Hotel'. Times have changed and now Chennai boasts of a large collection of restaurants in different flavours, price ranges and ambience. What follows is a necessarily subjective overview of some of the hot spots of Chennai for eating out.

All restaurants in Film City near the Institute have disappeared (in fact so has Film City) so your nearest bet is Adyar.

If you can get out of the campus, then Sardar Patel Road in Adyar boasts of quite a few eating places to suit most pockets. Kwality Riviera and Aditya are two restaurants offering generic North Indian/Punjabi fare. In addition Aditya also has a bar. Dinner for two will set you back about Rs. 250. For vegetarians and those who like a taste of the South, Adyar has some good south Indian vegetarian places. Khana Khazana in Kasturba Nagar (take a right at the Ceebros traffic light and go about half a km) used to be a good place for standard South Indian fare like thalis and idlis and dosas and vadas. But now, it retains its name but not its cuisine. Its changed ownership and now offers a strange mix of Chettinad, Hong Kong/Chinese/Singapore/Punjabi cuisine (all vegetarian) along with a minuscule selection of the old stuff i.e idlis and dosas - but the quality ain't the same and you don't get filter coffee. Why can't these people leave well alone? The food quality is variable and the prices will set you back about Rs. 150-200 for two. Adyar Woodlands at Adyar junction has some of the best Rava idlis and idlis in this part of town but their A/C 'Hall' is dark, dingy and pretty depressing.

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Don't go there if you are fussy about ambience. However, you can't beat their idlis and coffee and now with the effective demise of Chutney, is the only place in this part of Adyar to offer good wholesome South Indian vegetarian food and snacks and coffee. A similar place is Vasanta Bhavan on Lattice Bridge Road which I am told serves decent South Indian snacks and coffee. No personal experience though.

First Main Road, Gandhi Nagar, Adyar, just behind the Bus Terminus there used to be a Malaysian/Singapore place Rasa Sayang which was pleasantly different and reasonably priced. This has now turned into Ming Court and serves mostly Chinese food though some of the earlier dishes are available. Their entrees are typically 100 to 120 bucks. Their Lapsa soup priced at Rs 140 is a broth of fish, egg, sprouts and is a meal in itself. A typical dinner comes to about Rs 130-150 per person. During weekday lunches, there is an executive lunch for Rs. 99 which is a steal. The mysterious part of this restaurant is that the more than half a dozen times I have gone there, there has never been more than one more occupied table. Wonder how they survive!

On Lattice Bridge Road (also known by its acronym LB Road - most auto-rickshaw drivers know only the acronym!), opposite IMCOPS are two restaurants - Usilampatti serving chettinad style food and above it Jus' Parathas serving every possible type of stuffed paratha. Food at the former tends to be extremely spicy and hot unless you order their stews. You can't beat Jus' Parathas for originality (everything from cheese to scallion to radishes they stuff) and they come with Chole, Dal Makhni and Raita so one dish (around Rs. 60) is a meal in itself. Unfortunately, for a fuss pot like me, the stuffings are too spicy and they are stuffed in like into a Pita Bread. I believe stuffed parathas in the Indian tradition should be stuffed before rolling out not after. But most people seem to like the place (what do they know, anyway) so I guess I am in a minority!

If you are now ready to venture further afield, a whole new world of restaurants awaits you. Dhaba Express on Cenotaph Road (after you come down the Kotturpuram flyover) has a good vegetarian lunch buffet which is great value for money at Rs. 51. (You can order non vegetarian dishes separately). It has a large number of items, and while they don't have interesting vegetables (mostly brinjal, potatoes, koftas, couple of salads), they are reasonably made and not, for once, overspiced and there are rustic wooden benches and tables where you can sit in the open air. They also have a restaurant which is reasonable but somewhat pricey. The buffet is immensely popular with the office going crowd so it gets quite crowded at lunch on weekdays but there is sufficient seating.

The largest number of restaurants though, in terms of density, is on TTK Road (known earlier as Mowbrays Road). About half a kilometer from Park Sheraton Hotel, on TTK Road itself is a new Thai restaurant called Benjarong (Five Colours - Pancharanga). The food is great and authentic Thai since they fly in most of their ingredients, the interior decoration is lovely, and the tables have

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vases with real orchids. The culinary aspect is overseen by a father and daughter team from Thailand and you will frequently see her in the evening cutting up fruits in beautiful shapes and designs. Portions are reasonable, and a meal for two with soup and dessert comes to around Rs. 700. Try their unusual desserts like Tim Tub Siam - Ruby Water Chestnuts in Coconut Milk. One of the best mid-range restaurants in Chennai today.

Along TTK Road, opposite Sankara Hall is a whole slew of restaurants of all varieties and varying quality. Kabul professes to be the place for North West Frontier food but actually is one of those generic kabab and roti places. Pandiya Nadu, (metamorphosed from Panjim) as its name suggests, offers Chettinad cuisine like so many others and the quantities are abysmal. Duchess claims to serve so-called 'Continental' food and is a place best avoided by people from the Continent, and in fact elsewhere! Further along TTK Road on the left is a relatively new place The Big Apple, originally called Stop at Sam's which offers a rather pleasant selection of Indian, Chinese and Continental food of various types. The food and ambience are generically good, though not exceptional (an adjective that can be applied only rarely to Chennai Restaurants) and its also a good place to make a quick lunch of one of their large sandwich platters. They also have Quiches and Moussakas but the few times I have been there, these have not been available. Also ever since the transition from Stop at Sam's to Big Apple the food quality has definitely deteriorated.

TTK Road crosses a major Road of Chennai at the Music Academy crossing - its called Radhakrishnan Salai on the right and Cathedral Road on the left. On the left as you get onto Cathedral Road right at the corner is a multiplex of 4 restaurants (the West has multiplex theatres, Chennai has multiplex restaurant complexes). Baahar (now renamed Roomalli) is (no prizes for guessing) an open air place offering generic North Indian and Mughlai fare - the food has remained at a fairly decent level for many years and costs about Rs. 250 for two. They will occassionally agree to serve you beer in steel tumblers. Nizam serves (or rather claims to serve) the famed cuisine of Hyderabad but tends to fall flat on its face quite often! Palki has nice decor and absolutely ghastly food. Amravati offers Andhra cuisine and is a typical banana leaf place with mediocre food.

As you go further up Cathedral Road on the right are three restaurants - Don Pepe, Copper Chimney and China Town. The first serves Mexican and Spanish food along with some 'Euro-Mex" combos. Its good value for money and their platters are very nice - typical platters are around Rs. 150 and with a salad shared by two, makes for a satisfying meal. Try their Chicken and Avocado Salad. They have maintained their standards for quite some time now. Their Mousse is laced with gelatine and is consequently too stiff. They have recently added 'American' food to their repertoire (did I hear someone say 'What's that?') which means stuff like roast rack of lamb, clam chowder, baked sea bass and so on. However they spoil it by serving prawns instead of clams in the chowder and the only fish they (or, for that matter, any restaurant in Chennai) seem to have

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heard of is Seer (Banjaram) - so the variety of fish in the menu is quite limited. Their Spanish/Mexican is still the better bet, I think. (If you live near Anna Nagar, a 'xerox' copy of this place is Picasso with an almost identical menu - not surprising since its run by the same people.) Copper Chimney offers again generic North Indian/Mughlai food - good but somewhat overpriced like its cousin in Mumbai. China Town is a reasonably good Chinese restaurant. In both these restaurants, be prepared to shell out around Rs. 350-400 or more for two.

If instead of turning left onto Cathedral Road you turned right onto Radhakrishnan Salai then within about a kilometer, there are again a whole host of restaurants. The New Woodlands hotel on the left is something of an institution here and serves excellent South Indian thalis and the usual run of dosas, idli, vadas and so on. Again, typical of a place of this kind. it also serves excellent South Indian filter coffee. The Savera hotel on the left has Minar which serves Mughlai food and is highly overpriced. The Piano is a multi-cuisine restaurant - always a danger in Chennai since it frequently implies a lack of understanding on the part of the cooks of any of the cuisines. Piano has its share of Chinese, Continental and Indian dishes. Its continental fare smacks, as with many restaurants in India, of the Raj era with its collection of Chicken a la Kiev, Chicken a la King and so on. Unfortunately the fare is on the heavy side, much of it laced with garlic, cream, mayonnaise used with a heavy hand. The sea food salad, which could easily be made light and tasty is doused with huge amounts of mayonnaise making it cloyingly heavy. The a la Kiev has the butter reeking of garlic. Overall the place has good potential but is spoiled by the lack of a light and sensitive approach to spices and fat. About Rs. 450 at least, for food without alcohol. Malgudi in the same hotel serves food from the four Southern states and is better than similar restaurants elsewhere. However its not cheap and a meal without alcohol can cost anything between Rs. 300-400. Leaving Savera behind and moving on, we reach the Karaikudi complex. This has three main restaurants. Karaikudi provides good Chettinad food from the region of Karaikudi in Southern Tamil Nadu. For those of you who think eating non-vegetarian Indian food outside means Tandoori Chicken, kababs and naans, this is the place to try for something different. The food and ambience are refreshingly different and definitely worth a visit - about Rs. 250 for two. A popular item amongst most of our visitors in the Quail (Kadai) roast. Shogun is a generic Chinese place but also has a sprinkling of Thai, Singapore, and Malaysian cuisines. Coastline is a pure fish place - a bit cramped but their fish is fresh and their fish salad and Malabar Fish Curry are worth trying. They have recently expanded their bill of fare and have a fairly large variety of sea food. Their mixed sea food platter is quite nice but very expensive - the full platter varies in cost depending on availability - the last time we were there it was Rs. 1500 and enough to be shared among 3 people. They also have large crabs but again these are very expensive. All these places are in the same price range otherwise for the standard items.

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On the right hand side, facing the Karaikudi complex (almost!) is Saravana Bhavan Fast Foods. Saravana Bhavan is something of an institution in Madras and specialises in Thalis and other fast food items. Regrettably, my personal opinion in this matter is somewhat contrary to that of the general public - I think these Saravana Bhavan chain of restaurants is highly over-rated and there are numerous other places in Madras serving better Thalis and Idlis and dosas.

On one of the main arterial roads of Chennai called Nungambakkam High Road (recently renamed Mahatma Gandhi Salai but nobody, least of all auto drivers, will know that name) there are a few restaurants which are reasonable. Opal Inn, which is part of Hotel Ranjith is an old haunt for all types of cuisine - Indian, Continental, Chinese. The food is unremarkable but if you are in that region and want a reasonable place to grab a bite, you could try it. Ranjith Hotel roof top boasts a kabab place which is very good and, unusual for Madras, serves beer. Further up is Cascade - a Chinese place which again offers some South Eastern cuisine like Sapo and Satay. Not too authentic though - they tend to substitute lemon for lemon grass - but if, like most Chennai residents, you don't know the difference, then its not a bad place to eat. The food, after all, doesn't taste bad! Their Steam Boat, in fact, is rather good and is a good satisfying meal for two. There is now a copy of Cascade in Besant Nagar so you might want to try that since its closer to the institute. Nungambakkam also boasts (?) of Pizza Hut in Chennai in the Gee Gee complex along with one in Kasturbai Nagar, Adyar, and has its 'desi' version too - Pizza Corner .

Facing the famed bookstore of Chennai, Landmark, (on Nungambakkam High Road) on the other side of the road is the new 3 storeyed snazzy Ispahani shopping Centre. Here there are two placing for eating. Marrybrown, a fast food place reviewed further down, and in the basement VJ's Diner. This one has a very ambitious menu - everything from Gyros to Chimichangas, Sea Food Bisque to Mergez sausages (a kind of north African sausage) and many other so-called 'Latin-American' items. Unfortunately, their enthusiasm far exceeds their skills. They usually have just one soup (the time we went it was Potato and Leek - nice but not the most exciting of culinary discoveries). None of their Latin-American stuff was available and their Gyro turned out to be Chicken (!!) grilled and served in a paratha like object (no, not a Pita) with lettuce and tomato! However I did manage to get a Mergez burger once. They also have some Indian food and sandwiches so not a bad place to stop over if you are shopping in the Nungambakkam area. Around Rs.200 for two. If you go further up Nungambakkam High Road where it merges Valluvar Kottam Road towards Egmore, there is the Red E Food Court - a food court as its name suggests, offering a variety of cuisine like Thai, Mexican, Indian etc. Reasonable value for money and for some reason, kids love the place.

On Thyagaraja Road (Pondy Bazar Road) just after turning in from Mount Road is the GRT Grand Days hotel (a part of the Days Inn group in the US). This has good value for money restaurants and also a decent buffet for about Rs. 250.

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The Copper Point serves Indian food including the not-so-common South Indian dishes like Fish Moilee and the like. About Rs. 250-300 per person. The Oriental Pearl serves Thai and Chinese food in the same price range and has a fairly wide variety of items. A small sprinkling of other South-East Asian dishes from Malaysia, Japan etc., are on the menu but are sometimes not available. A nice starter is their Chicken Satay. Good value for money and though not cheap, far lower than five star places.

Here is a sprinkling of a few other places you could try in Besant Nagar near the beach (called Elliot's beach). Eden restaurant near the Besant Nagar bus terminus is a pleasant pure vegetarian place which serves a wide variety of North Indian and baked (continental?) items - some quite interesting. For example, they have the vegetarian version of Spaghetti and Meat Balls by substituting Soya Nugget balls for the meat balls. They get full marks for novelty though not all their dishes are a resounding success. Close to Eden is a small place called Bella Ciao serving (no marks for guessing) Italian cuisine. Its actually run by a Italian couple and has the usual run of Ravioli, Fettucini, and the like. Its good for a change but the prices are inflated, the portions tiny (4 small slices of garlic bread costs Rs.25!) and its definitely not value for money. Its also extremely cramped and its not pleasant to have your elbow continuously dig into another diner's ribs (or worse, vice versa!). You get Italian wine but then, I wouldn't want to have mediocre Italian wine at their prices! They of course serve Italian coffee (Espresso, Cappucino and so on) but its made very light and watery and the coffee is not of the highest quality. (For such things go to Coffee? mentioned below). Their Tira Misu is quite disappointing. I have noticed however that different people have different reactions to Bella Ciao so I would suggest trying it once and deciding for yourself. (Update: This place has now moved to Thiruvanmiyur). Close by is also the new dandified 'avatar' of Sri Krishna Vilas called Vishranti which offers good South Indian Thalis, Dosas and Idlis and other such snack items at reasonable prices. Worth a visit if you want a nice place to sit and good South Indian vegetarian food and excellent filter coffee.

Another place nearby, close to Eden is the oddly named Jelly Belly - its like a Delicatessen serving vegetarian snacks and desserts (why does Chennai have so many vegetarian 'yuppie' places?). They have grilled toasts, club sandwiches (what's a vegetarian club sandwich?) and a fair selection of strawberry, chocolate and other mousses. Its run by the same family that runs Eden and, if you don't mind the absence of animal protein, they do it quite well. There is also a Chinese place nearby called Canton Beach Palms - serving the usual Chinese menu available in so many places. The place is nice and airy and prices are about Rs. 150 per person.

A few other places are worth mentioning. Cake Walk in Besant Nagar is a bakery next to Vishranti and has very nice pastries and Tira Misu. (Avoid their Mousse - much too gelatinous). And just above is Sage and Onion which as its name suggest has the standard collection of Continental food - from Chicken

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Cacciatore to Lamb Chops in Mint Sauce. However the food and ambience are rather pleasant though nothing exceptional. I would suggest coming down the stairs to have your dessert at Cake Walk (its part of the same establishment). In the same general area and on the same road is Cascade which is a 'branch' of the one in Nungambakkam and Lotus Pond specialising in the 'Balti Cuisine' of England - to my knowledge, a non-existent category of cuisine, developed entirely in England from a mish mash of Indian curry places.

Right on Elliot's beach is a food court called Planet Yumm containing Dominoes Pizza, Sangeetha Bhavan, Wang's Kitchen, Haveli, and Cafe Coffee Day. There is also a nice children's play area and it's pleasant to visit in the evenings and sit outside with the sea close by.

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On Ambujambal Street in Alwarpet is a restaurant in an old style bungalow with a very pleasant setting called Bay Leaf. Run by a Punjabi-Bengali couple, it has a combination of Punjabi and Bengali items on the menu and they have a pleasant place to sit in the verandha. Most things are well made and they have a take out and delivery called 'Wish-a-dish'. Their speciality is supposed to be Lucknowi biryani and various kebab items and kathi rolls. Its easy to find - if you are taking the usual shortcut from Alwarpet junction to Cathedral Road via the Russian Cultural Centre, you will see it on your right, at the corner of one of the cross roads, near the Onkyo showroom - at the corner of Kasuri Ranga Road and Ambujambal Street. Typically Rs. 300 for two which is very reasonable for the quality and quantity of food. Even though the food is 'North Indian', its a far cry from the overspiced, heavy and oily food that is passed off as Punjabi-Mughlai cuisine nowadays, virtually everywhere, and particularly in Chennai which doesn't know any better.

There is a place which deserves star billing, though its a trifle expensive. This is the Great Kabab Factory at the Hotel Radisson on GST Road on the way to the airport (just before Trident). This has a fixed menu of 5 types of kababs (2 chicken, 2 mutton, one fish) which are served freshly made at your table with a selection of speciality breads (Sheermal, Bakarkhani Roti, Kulcha..). Their Galauti Kabab is a delight and is made with literally melt in the mouth mutton mince. You are allowed second servings for each though I doubt you will have space for them. They also serve, at the end, two types of Dal, vegetables and a wonderful Chicken or Mutton Biryani but most of the time I have had no space left for any of this. The bad news is that it costs Rs. 440 per head which is steep but, IMHO, worth it.

Finally one should mention a new Lebanese place called Cedars in Kotturpuram near the ICICI bank counter. Nice ambience, good food (they make their own Kabooz - a kind of Pita) and have lots of different kinds of Kebabs. Try their appetisers like Hummus. The place is not as good as the old Whistle Stop but it at least something different. Alas, no Falafel though! About Rs 300-350 per person. Five Star Places: I can't afford most 5-star places so this list will necessarily be very selective. The Dakshin at Park Sheraton serves cuisine of the four southern states. The Peshawari at the Chola Sheraton serves North West Frontier food and is very good; however you better go there with a fat wallet, or plastic money (with no worries of paying the bill when it comes) or with green-backs which automatically give you a 50:1 advantage! The Raintree at the Connemara serves Chettinad food under a huge raintree and is also worth a visit. The buffets at the Chola Sheraton at the Mercara and Sagari are of course worth the money if you are a large eater - they typically cost around Rs. 400. But watch out - all these 5-star places slap a 20% tax on your bill which can be a substantial increase in your expense.

A new place on Greenways Road near Pizza Time called Coffee? is a coffee parlour inspired, no doubt, by Starbucks and offers other than the usual

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vegetarian snack items, a wide variety of coffees from around the world - Thai, Italian, Colombian, Turkish - you name it. All of them cost Rs. 30 and its a popular hangout for the (very) young yuppie crowd - on the whole a nice and cheerful place (if you are not too conscious of your grey hairs) run by a couple of very friendly young guys. They even have a few books and tank tops on display and sale!! In the same vein, there is a very yuppie joint called Qwicky's in T. Nagar on G. N. Chetty Road. Coming from Panagal Park, pass the Vani Mahal Circle and its almost immediately on your right. They have numerous brands of coffee and snacks and is a favourite hang out for college kids. If you are on the wrong side of 30, you are going to feel like a grandfather, in there!! There is now a Qwicky's in Adyar, not far from the Bata shop at Adyar Circle.

Ice Cream parlours: These are becoming really popular in Chennai. The closest to the Institute is the one above Adyar Bakery on Sardar Patel Road called Shakes and Cream - very nice and reasonably priced - though their interior decorator should be fired! On the other side on First Main Road, Gandhi Nagar, near the Bata showroom is Baskin Robbins which is also good but with the Fatherland connection, feels justified in charging high prices. There is Chill Thrill in Kasturbai Nagar opposite Khana Khazana Restaurant (mentioned above). There is another in Besant Nagar which is supposed to be good but since I have never been there, I have forgotten the name! Baskin Robbins at Adyar Circle is best avoided - the prices are high and the ice cream is not very good.

Finally, last but not the least, Hotel Runs (don't take the name seriously) is a Kerala Muslim 'Irani' like restaurant which has the cheapest, good Tandoori items - a half chicken Tandoori costs about Rs. 50. But perhaps, if you are finicky about where you eat, you should ask them to pack the food...

Fast Food Places

There are suddenly a lot of fast food places in Chennai. In Adyar itself, there's Pizza Corner at the start of LB Road, with bad pizza but I believe with some specials which include bottomless Pepsi, Pizza Hut (yes, the original) with nice ordinary and pan pizza, a salad bar, spaghetti and so on but fairly high prices for a fast food joint - around Rs. 300 for two. However they occassionally have special deals advertised in newspapers and those are good value for money. Its located along Kamaraj Avenue wherein you turn right from Sardar Patel Road at the Ceebros Arcade on the Kasturba Nagar side. Further down is Domino's (yes, again the original) whose pizzas are far better than those of the home grown variety and, in fact, better than Domino's own pizzas in the US!! Also cheaper than Pizza Hut (a regular with 3 toppings is Rs. 79) and you can order them from the Institute (1-600-111-123 toll free). There is also a Pizza Hut in the Gee Gee Emerald complex on Nungambakkam High Road where also, opposite the Landmark bookstore is the Ispahani shopping complex. This has MarryBrown a Kentucky Fried Chicken clone from Malaysia, I am told, but its chicken burgers and fried chicken are even worse than KFC's. Their french fries

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are like matchsticks. Even McDonald's would be better. They have now expanded their menu with a Kareemeen Burger but I don't know if it makes any difference. Seems popular with the young crowd though! However just above on the first floor is the Coffee Day coffee parlour - good coffee, nice ambience and a pleasant view from the large glass plate windows. Not much to eat though and the noise, both from the chattering yuppies and the loud music can get on your nerves.

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A Tour of MadrasIntroductionThe Gateway to the South, Madras, the first city of Tamil Nadu, is a comparatively new city. The erstwhile villages of Mylapore, Triplicane, Ezhambur (Egmore) etc., all now a part of Madras, have a recorded historical past centuries older than Madras. The present city of Madras is itself, however, only about 350 years old. The quest of an East India Company factor, Francis Day, for cheaper cloth and more peaceful surroundings led to the founding of Madras in 1639. The city of today, one of the great metropolises of the world, and the fourth largest city in India, grew from the fort Day and his superior Andrew Cogan built on a narrow spit of no-man's land that Day's dubash Beri Thimanna negotiated with the local governor of the Vijayanagar Empire. The approximately 5 square kilometre sand strip Day was granted has now grown into a city of about 170 sq. kms. with a population of 3.25 million. Madras was Britain's first major settlement in India and it was here that many who went on to build the Empire first learnt their trade. As a consequence, the city is replete with much that is of significance in British Indian history. But the much older settlements have stories to tell too, and so the city is an amalgam of ancient and more modern history. Everywhere one goes in Madras, one can find history written in every name. Particularly charming features of Madras are its allegiance to ancient traditions, no matter how modernised it has become, and its willingness to spread out further rather than develop into a multi-storey concrete jungle. The result is a widespread city still open to the skies; a green, airy city with several vestiges of its rural past; a city that adheres to the leisurely tempo of the life of a world of yesterday; a city whose values of another day still survive midst the humdrum bustle of today; a city that still retains the charm, culture and courtesies of the ages.

In this gracious, spacious city there is much to see. A suggested tour round the city is best completed by following this route: Fort St. George, High Court Complex, George Town, Corporation Complex, Patheon Complex, Valluvar Kottam, Kodambakkam, St. Thomas Mount, Guindy National Park, Kalakshetra, Elliot's Beach, Theosophical Society, the Shrines of Mylapore & Triplicane Government Estate, the Marina and Anna Salai.

FORT ST. GEORGE

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The fort that grew into a metropolis. The building of the nucleus of this fort in 1640 was the first step towards the founding of Madras - and an Empire. The fort itself growing over the year and is one of the finest examples in India of British military construction. Within its solid walls and sturdy gates is much that is historic. Clive's Corner, in the house where Robert Clive lived, commemorates the Empire-builder who first learnt his trade here. St. Mary's Church, consecrated in 1680 and the oldest Protestant Church in the East, contains several antiquities, not the least being the oldest British tombstones in India and memories of weddings in which Clive and Elihu Yale (benefactor of America's famed Yale University), Arthur Wellesley (who became Wellington) and Warren Hastings participated. Wellesley House is where Wellesley lived on his first active military duty. The Legislature and Secretariat of the Tamil Nadu government are built around a core that was Fort House, the home of the first governors of Madras. And the Fort Museum, once a building that housed Madras's first lighthouse, first commercial bank and first `club', is now a well-kept repository of tangible memories of Early Madras.

HIGH COURT COMPLEX

On the site of Fort St. George's first Indian town has come up the splendid Indo-Saracenic buildings of the High Court and the Law College. Near the College was an ancient British cemetery; all that is now left of it here is a couple of tombs, including one of David, son of Elihu Yale. Near the High Court building is the city's second lighthouse tower and the highest point in the Court building once housed the third lighthouse.

GEORGE TOWN

This rabbit's warren of straight and narrow, criss-crossing streets is the Indian town that developed as Fort St. George grew. Today, it is the commercial heart of the city, throbbing with life from dawn to dusk, its streets packed with crowds of traders , buyers and their employees. After dusk, the true citizens of George Town, those in mansions atop dilapidated shops or in the more traditional 18th Century homes in the northern reaches, take over. And George Town becomes a vibrant town within a city. Rajaji Salai (North Beach Road) separates George Town from the Harbour and, along one side of it, starting with the earliest British commercial house, Parry's, are several of the major commercial institutions in Madras and many a building of 18th and 19th century architectural splendour. Bentinck's Building, the Collectorate, is one of them; once it was the home of the city's first Supreme Court. The northern limits of George Town are

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Fort St. George

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marked by Old Jail Road and Clive Battery, the old town walls still visible in parts. The western boundary of George Town is Wall Tax Road, commemorating another boundary wall - and an ill-fated tax - that is no more.

CORPORATION COMPLEX

One of the most beautiful of the more modern British constructions in Madras is Ripon Building, home of the Madras Corporation, the oldest municipality in India. This splendid domed vision in white, built in 1913, is part of a large municipal complex that includes parks and gardens, Nehru Stadium, Victoria Public Hall, a public meeting place out of the gaslight era, and Moore market, a fascinating shopper's paradise that is part of the ethos of Madras. Not far away are the College of Arts and Crafts, which has a nice permanent exhibition, and the imposing stone headquarters of the Southern Railway.

PANTHEON COMPLEX

Once British Society in Madras used to meet in the Pantheon. Its 18th century buildings and grounds have since then developed into the Connemara Library, one of the country's beautiful building of Jaipuri-Mughal architecture, the Government Museum with its fabulous collection of bronzes and the Museum Theatre, a quaint theatre that is another building out of the gaslight era.

GOVERNMENT MUSEUM (Pantheon Road)

Established in 1857, it is undoubtedly one of the country's finest museums. It has sections devoted to geology, archeology, anthropology, botany, zoology, sculpture and numismatics. Its most prized posessions are the relics from 2nd century AD Buddhist site of Amaravati and the prehistoric antiques of South India. The sculpture gallery has exquisite carvings of the Hindu, Buddhist and Jain faiths, an interesting collection of wood carvings from processional temple chariots and also a fine collection of South Indian musical instruments and jewellery. The bronze gallery, the country's finest, has superb ancient icons and modern bronzes, including the famous

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bronze Natraja and the beautiful set of Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman.Timings: 08.00 hrs to 17.00 hrs. Closed on Fridays and national holidays.

NATIONAL ART

GALLERY

Fine collection of old paintings. On display are 10th and 13th century bronzes, 16th-18th century Rajsthani and Mughal paintings, 17th century Deccani paintings and 11th and 12th century Indian handicrafts. The collection is housed in a beautiful Mughal style building with an exquisitely wrought pink sand-stone facade.Timings: 0800 to 1700 hrs. Closed on Fridays and national holidays.

VALLUVAR KOTTAM

A unique bit of modern building in the city is the huge auditorium that draws its inspiration from the great temple builders of Tamil Nadu's past. Built in 1976, the imposing merhorial to the poet-saint Thiruvalluvar is a replica of the famed temple chariot of Thiruvaroor, and succeeds in evoking the beauty of the centuries-old masterpiece. The lifesize statue of the saint Thiruvalluvar is seated in the 33 m tall chariot. The lower portion of the chariot has bas-relief sculptures depicting the 133 chapters of the sacred 'Thirukkural'. The Valluvar Kottam auditorium seats 4000 and claims to have Asia's largest seating capacity. The lovely, terraced roof garden has two large pools.

KODAMBAKKAM

India produces the largest number of films in the world annually and more than half of them are in the four southern languages, Tamil, Malayalam, Telugu and Kannada.

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National Art Gallery

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Kodambakkam is the `Hollywood' of India's south, its High Road lined with film studios, with many a star living not far away.

THE THOMAN TRADITION

South India's links with Christianity go back almost to the times of Jesus. One of the Disciples, Thomas Dydimus (`Doubting Thomas'), is believed to have preached the gospel on both southern coasts and spent his last year in the villages near what became Madras. Little Mount, where Thomas is said to have lived, has an old Portuguese shrine, a newer church that could only be described as `mod', a spring with miraculous properties and some `imprints' of the saint. It is said that Thomas used to walk from here to the beach at San Thome daily to preach and when he was killed on St. Thomas Mount, just outside City limits, he was buried on the beach. He was later reinterred a little inland, on the site where later churches rose, the latest of the San Thome Basilica, in whose crypt are some relics of the saint. On his way back to the two Mounts, it is said that he used to rest at a spot near Mylapore on which a Portuguese later built Descanco Church. The church atop St. Thomas Mount is a major Roman Catholic pilgrim centre, the Church of the Madonna of the Mount having a `Bleeding Cross' and a painting believed to have been done by St. Luke.

GUINDY NATIONAL PARK

Once this was all part of Governor's Estate, now it is fragmented and the major part is a thickly forested game sanctuary where the spotted deer and the black buck roam and a wealth of smaller fauna thrive. This is the country's only wild life sanctuary within a city's limits. Raj Bhavan, the governor's mansion, occupies one end of the park, and at the other is the beautiful forest-girt campus of Madras's famous Indian Institute of Technology, one of Asia's foremost educational institutions. In between and edging the road, are a famous Cancer Institute, a Children's Park with its own mini-zoo and mini-railway, a Snake Park rich in reptiles, and Memorials to Gandhiji, Rajagopalachari the first Indian Governor-General, and Kamaraj, a major Tamil national leader. Opposite the park are the Anna University of Technology, whose nucleus was the oldest technical school in the East, and the Central Leather Research Institute. To the east of the park as well as at the back of it sprawls the campus of the Central Institutes of Technology. Not far away is one of the country's finest Race-courses.

KALAKSHETRA

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December-January is a splendid time to be in Madras, for it is the music festival season, when there are concerts of classical Carnatic music (and now Hindustani as well) and recitals of classical Bharata Natyam everywhere. But year round, Kalakshetra, an internationally renowned teaching institute, reverberates with classical music and dance. Founded by that unique exponent and innovator of classical dance, Rukmini Devi Arundale, its dance dramas are spectacular, its song and dance pristine. And its Kala Mandalam is an auditorium of unique traditional architecture. Handicrafts are also taught here. Not far away is Cholamandalam, a cooperative artists' colony where modern art and open air theatre thrive.

ELLIOT'S BEACH

Until not so long ago, the City's bathing beach it is now another `lung' of Madras, popular with a crowd less in love with the water. Pleasant, safe for swimming, ideal for lazy lounging and picnicking. A stone memorial to a Danish sailor, Karl Schmidt, who lost his life rescuing a drowning swimmer, is a landmark. About a kilometer to the north of the Elliot's beach is a nice, clean and quiet stretch of the beach, behind the Theosophical Society headquarters. Here, the river Adyar meets the sea. This place can be of interest to bird-watchers - a variety of birds like egrets, pond-herons and flamingoes are seen here. To the south are the new shrines of the City, the Ashtalakshmi Temple - the country's newest shore temple to the eight forms of the goddess Lakshmi - a Ganesh Temple and the Velankanni Church said to have the same miraculous attributes as the mother shrine in the south.

THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY

In the vast Besant Gardens, now unfortunately being abbreviated due to the exigencies of the times, are the World Headquarters of the Theosophical movement founded by Madame Blavatsky and Col. Olcott. The Headquarters Building is a superb old mansion with a vast hall where silence is revered. In the grounds of the Society are a huge old Banyan Tree, believed to be the second largest in India, shrines of all faiths, a serene Garden of Remembrance and a fine Library with a superb collection of old Eastern manuscripts.

HALLOWED SHRINES

In a city full of places of all faiths, some are more hallowed than others. Of these, some date to the Madras Age that began in 1639, others go back centuries to Pallava times. In ancient Mylapore, known to Ptolemy as the great port of Maillarpha, is the famed Kapaleeswarar Temple. The present temple, built on the site of the ancient shrine

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Huge old Banyan tree, Besant Gardens, Adyar

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dedicated to Lord Shiva, is at least 300 years old and has one of the most striking gopurams (towers) in South India. Not far away is the Vaishnava Parthasarathy Temp le a splendid Pallava creation of the 8th century. In George Town are the earliest temples of the Madras Era - the twin Chenna Kesava - Chenna Mallikeswarar Temples are the first temples of the modern city, and not much newer are the Kandaswamy Temple, the Kapaleeswarar Temple and the Ekambareswarar Temple nearby. More modern Hindu shrines include the Vadapalani Andavar Temple and the temples of Mambalam. Older than the temples of George Town is the Roman Catholic Portuguese Church nearby, perhaps the first church in British India. Other churches of George Town with a 300-year-old history but with reconstructed building are Armenian Church and St. Mary's Co-Cathedral. Luz Church in Mylapore, however, has a history going back to the first Protuguese settlement in San Thome. Once the British were established in Madras, they built some fine churches with towering steeples, like St. George's Cathedral and St. Andrew's Kirk, both with several fine monuments. The Big Mosque, associated with the Wallajah Nawabs, is the finest mosque in Madras, but the new Thousand Lights Mosque brings modern architectural splendour to mosque-building. Mint Street has several old jain temples, but in GNC Road there is the new Shantinath Temple that is strikingly beautiful.

GOVERNMENT ESTATE

It's heart is erstwhile Government House, used as the governor's mansion from the time the British governors moved out of the Fort till their Indian successors moved into the smaller country mansion in Guindy in the post-Independence age. With the move, t his splendid mansion in the heart of the city has become a legislators' hostel. Rajaji Hall is the stately Banqueting Hall that the second Lord Clive built as an adjunct to Government House. Gandhi Illam, a little corner of these vast grounds, is a small museum commemorating the Father of the Nation.

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Kapaleeswarar Temple at Mylapore

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THE MARINA

Stretching two miles, from the mouth of the Cooum River south of the Fort, till the northern boundaries of the 16th centurey Portuguese town of San Thome, is this magnificent beach drive and promenade. To the east of the road is the promenade, well-kept gardens and a wide beach with claims to being the world's second largest. At the north end of the beach is Anna Square, the serene resting place of Dr C N Annadurai, who founded a populist party that ushered in anew the ancient glory of Tamil and the Tamils. His Samadhi is marked by a beautiful park, a striking memorial sculpture and daily crowds paying homage. At the other end of the beach is the new lighthouse. In between, sentinels on the promenade, are several statues of Tamil scholars and two splendid bits of sculpture - the Victory of Labour and Mahatma Gandhi. Madras's Aquarium is also on this beach. Across the road are several important buildings of Madras. The University campus has Indo-Saracenic of the 1930s blending with perhaps one of the country's finest buildings in this hybrid style, Senate House, built by one of the founders of the modern version of this school of architecture. R F Chisholm, in mid-19th century. Chrisholm's PWD buildings front striking Chepauk Palace, once the home of the Nawabs of the Carnatic, but now government offices whose exteriors still reflect Nawabi splendour. Presidency College, another Chisholm masterpiece, was the nucleus of the 125-year-old University of Madras. Vivekananda House, now a hostel, was once a storehouse for imported ice, then home of Swami Vivekananda when he visited Madras. The long and impressive Office of the Director-general of Police, another 19th century construction, was built as the City's first Masonic hall.

OTHER BUILDINGS

In addition to the several buildings mentioned earlier, Madras has several fine example of British-Indian architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries. These include Amir Mahal, where the descendants of the Nawabs of Carnatic live, Moubray's House where the Madras Club functions and its first building now in Express Estate, the GPO and adjacent State Bank buildings, Doveton House that is part of the Women's Christian College campus, the Madras Literaty Society's building and several stately old homes.

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Marina Beach

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Excursions from Madras

Mamallapuram (58 km)

Also known as Mahabalipuram, this ancient sea port was built by Emperor Mahendravarman Pallava in the 7th century. From here ships left for countries in south-east Asia and the Mediterranian carrying not only traders but people who emigrated to countries like Indonesia, Thailand and Combodia. Over the passage of time Mamallapuram ceased to function as a port but its glory lived on in its finished and unfinished temples and monuments. Time and natural forces have wrought changes onthe solid rock surface of these monuments but each sculpture and image still succeeds in conveying a message of beauty and harmony. Mamallapuram bears testimony and pays tribute to its Pallava artists and to the culture of South India. Among the places of interest are Arjuna's Penance, Krishna Mandapa, Mahishasuramardini Cave, Mandapams, Pancha Rathas, Shore Temple and Varaha Mandapa.

Pulicat (54 km)

This is the site of an old Dutch settlement dating back to 1609. Today, Pulicat is a picnic spot famed for its lake. There are amenities of sort for swimming, fishing, and windsurfing. History-buffs can wander around the ancient Dutch cemetery with its well-preserved tombstones.

Cholamandalam Artists' Village (28 km)

Contemporary art, sculpture, batik and craft flourish in this little palm-studded sea-rimmed artists' commune that was started in 1966. Artists and sculptors live and work here and also exhibit and sell their work. Its open air auditorium is also the venue of avant garde theatre, poetry-reading and dance recitals.

Kovalam (43 km)

A picturesque fishing village en route to Mamallapuram. It has an idyllic, golden beach and a charming luxury hotel beach resort that's been ingeniously integrated with the remains of a fort. The resort offers delicious sea food and facilities' for such watersport as swimming and windsurfing. The ruins of the old fort, an ancient Catholic church and a mosque make interesting viewing.

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Sunrise at the shore temple of Mahabalipuram

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V.G.P. Golden Beach Resort (30 km)

This is a cleverly planned beach resort geared to entertain the visitor with sculptured vignettes from the past, folk dances and ethnic sea food cuisine. Its unique stretch of spotlessly clean golden sand is a warm invitation to sun-bathers and the surf beckons the seabather. The V.G.P. Art Centre, a part of the resort complex, sells merchandise ranging, from sea shells to rural handicrafts. Pretty tacky and tastelessly done!

MGM Dizee World (20 km)

An amusement park complete with Roller Coasters and Water Slides and Giant Catherine Wheels - fun place for kids.

Dakshina Chitra (immediately next to Dizee World)

A reasonably new place presented by the Madras Crafts Foundation as a show piece of different living styles in the South. Contains recreations of Brahmin, Chettinad, a potters, a basket weaver's, a silk weaver's houses along with live representations of their craft. Similarly the Kerala section has a Syrian Christian house, a Menon house etc. Very authentic since the dwellings were actually bought from their places of origin and replanted here. There is an accompanying audio-visual presentation and a little gift shop. Very well done and definitely worth a visit.

Crocodile Bank (31 km)

Several species of Indian and African crocodiles and alligators bred in captivity are kept here in open pools. Visitors can view the reptiles from close but safe proximity. There is also a small snake farm here that conducts demonstrations of venom extraction.

Kancheepuram (75 km)

This spectacular temple city is one of the seven sacred cities of India. It was, successively, capital of the kingdoms of the Pallavas, Cholas and rajas of Vijayanagar. The temples and gopurams they left behind are exquisite reminders of the beauty of Dravidian architecture, from the freshness and simplicity of the Pallavas' 7th-century Kailasanatha Temple through to the Vijayanagar Empire's 16th-century Ekambareshwara Temple. The latter covers nine hectares, has a 59-metre-high gopuram, a 1000-pillared hall and a sacred mango tree said to be 3500 years old. Kanchipuram is also famous for its hand-

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woven silk fabrics. The best way to see the temples is to hire a bicycle or a cycle-rickshaw driver for the day and have plenty of baksheesh ready for the temple guides, shoe-minders and riff-raff who will relish your arrival.

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MapsDistricts of Tamilnadu

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Getting To Know - Chennai

Map of Chennai

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