Chapter 10 Suspension and steering - Podolsk · Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting...

10•1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steeringContentsFront hub bearings - renewal 3Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting 2Front suspension and steering check See Chapter 1Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 8Front suspension anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and refitting 9Front suspension lower arm balljoint - removal and refitting 7Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting 6Front suspension strut - overhaul 5Front suspension strut - removal and refitting 4Front suspension subframe - removal and refitting 10General information 1Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 21Power steering pump - removal and refitting 25Power steering pump drivebelt check,

adjustment and renewal See Chapter 1Power steering fluid level check See Chapter 1Power steering system - bleeding 24

Degrees of difficulty

Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting 17Rear hub assembly - removal and refitting 11Rear hub bearings - renewal 12Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting 13Rear suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 16Rear suspension torsion bar - removal and refitting 14Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and refitting 15Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting 20Steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting 22Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 23Steering wheel - removal and refitting 19Track rod - removal and refitting 27Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting 26Vehicle ride height - checking and adjustment 18Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information 28Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure

checks See Chapter 1

SpecificationsFront suspensionFront ride height - fully-laden*:

1124 cc and 1360 cc models 177 ± 10 mm1580 cc and 1761 cc models 185 ± 10 mm1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 167 ± 10 mm1998 cc 16-valve models 165 ± 10 mm

* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle

Rear suspensionRear ride height - fully-laden*:

1124 cc and 1360 cc models 201 ± 10 mm1580 cc models:

Three-door models 189 ± 10 mmFive-door models 209 ±10 mm

1761 cc models 189 ± 10 mm1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 200 ± 10 mm1998 cc 16-valve models 199 ± 10 mm


SteeringPower steering fluid type . Dexron type II ATF

TyresTyre size .. 165/70 R 13, 175/65 R 14, 185/60 R 14 or 195/55 R 15 (depending

on model)Pressures - (tyres cold): Front Rear

165/70 R 13 tyres 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)175/65 R 14 tyres 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)185/60 R 14 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)195/55 R 15 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.3 bar (33 psi)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer orsupplier for correct pressures if necessary.* Models with these tyres have a "space-saver" spare wheel fitted with a smaller tyre. The smaller spare tyre should run at 2.4 bars (35 psi), notingthe vehicle should not be driven at speeds exceeding 100 mph (160 km/h) whilst the spare wheel is fitted.

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult, suitablefor competent DIYmechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

10•2 Suspension and steering

RoadwheelsType Pressed-steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model)Size 5B x 13, 5J x 13, 5.5J x 14 or 6J x 15 (depending on model)Maximum run-out at rim 1.2 mmMaximum eccentricity on tyre bead locating surface 0.8 mm

Wheel alignment and steering anglesFront wheel camber angle:

Unladen 0° 30' ± 40'Fully-laden* 0° ± 40'

Castor angleUnladen:

Manual steering 0° 30' ± 40'Power-assisted steering 2° ± 40'

Fully-laden*:Manual steering 1 ° 30' ± 40'Power-assisted steering 3° ± 40'

Steering axis inclination/kingpin inclination 10° 45' ± 40'Front wheel toe setting:

UnladenManual steering 0 to 2 mm (toe-out)Power-assisted steering -2.5 to -4.5 mm (toe-in)

Fully-laden*:Manual steering 1 to 3 mm (toe-out)Power-assisted steering -1 to -3 mm (toe-in)

Rear wheel camber setting -1 ° ± 40'Rear wheel toe setting:

Unladen -2 to 2 mm (toe-in/toe-out)Fully-laden* -2.5 to -6.0 mm (toe-in)


Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspensionStrut-to-swivel hub bolt 55 41Strut upper mounting bolts 20 15Strut upper mounting retaining nut 45 33Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt 40 30Lower arm balljoint retaining nuts 45 33Lower arm front pivot bolt 60 44Lower arm rear pivot bush mounting bolts:

8 mm bolt 27 2010 mm bolt 55 41

Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to lower arm):Mounting clamp bolts 55 41Bar-to-connecting link nuts 30 22Connecting link-to-bracket bolt 40 30Bracket-to-lower arm bolts 20 15

Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to strut):Mounting clamp bolts 55 41Connecting link nuts 40 30

Subframe mounting bolts 84 62

Rear suspensionShock absorber upper mounting bolt 75 55Shock absorber lower mounting bolt 120 89Rear hub nut:

Models with rear drum brakes 200 148Models with rear disc brakes 180 133

Torsion bar Torx retaining screw 20 15Anti-roll bar retaining bracket bolt 35 26Brake backplate bolts (drum brakes only) 37 27Rear axle mountings:

Front mounting-to-body nuts 55 41Front mounting-to-crossmember bolts 70 52Rear mounting nuts 45 33

Suspension and steering 10•3

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

SteeringTrack rod balljoint-to-swivel hub nut 35 26Track rod-to-steering rack 50 37Steering gear mounting bolts 40 30Steering wheel nut 35 26Steering column mounting nuts 17 13Universal joint clamp bolt 25 18Power-assisted steering gear fluid unions:

Feed pipe 25 18Return pipe 20 15

RoadwheelsWheel bolts 90 66

The independent front suspension is of theMacPherson strut type, incorporating coilsprings and integral telescopic shockabsorbers. The MacPherson struts arelocated by transverse lower suspension arms,which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes,and incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends.The front swivel hubs, which carry the wheelbearings, brake calipers and the hub/discassemblies, are bolted to the MacPhersonstruts, and connected to the lower arms viathe balljoints. A front anti-roll bar is fitted to allmodels. The anti-roll bar is rubber-mounted

onto the subframe, and is either connected toboth lower suspension arms or directly to thefront suspension struts, depending on themodel (see illustration).

The rear suspension is of the independenttrailing arm type, which consists of two trailingarms, linked by a tubular crossmember.Torsion bars linking the trailing arms aresituated in front of and behind thecrossmember, and an anti-roll bar linking thearms passes through the centre of thecrossmember (see illustration).

The complete rear axle assembly ismounted onto the vehicle underbody by four"self-steering" rubber mountings. Thesemountings are designed to move slightlyunder extreme cornering forces. This

movement of the rear axle assembly has theeffect of actually turning the rear wheelsslightly, to help steer the vehicle in therequired direction. This improves the handlingof the vehicle when cornering at extremespeeds.

The steering column has a universal jointfitted in the centre of its length, which isconnected to an intermediate shaft having asecond universal joint at its lower end. Thelower universal joint is clamped to the steeringgear pinion by means of a clamp bolt (seeillustration).

The steering gear is mounted onto the frontsubframe, and is connected by two trackrods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to thesteering arms projecting rearwards from the

1.1 Cross-sectional view of the front suspensioncomponents

1.2 Cross-sectional view of the rear suspension components

1 General information


1.4 Cross-sectional view of the steering column and associated components

swivel hubs. The track rod ends are threaded,to facilitate adjustment.

Power-assisted steering is fitted asstandard on some models, and is available asan option on all others. The hydraulic steeringsystem is powered by a belt-driven pump,which is driven off the crankshaft pulley.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply thehandbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,and support it on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, using ahammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up thestaking securing the driveshaft retaining nut inposition. Note that a new retaining must beused on refitting.

3 On all 1580 cc and larger-engined models,withdraw the R-clip, and remove the lockingcap from the driveshaft retaining nut.4 Refit at least two roadwheel bolts to thefront hub, and tighten them securely. Have anassistant firmly depress the brake pedal, toprevent the front hub from rotating, then usinga socket and extension bar, slacken andremove the driveshaft retaining nut.

5 If the hub bearings are to be disturbed,remove the brake disc as described in

2.6 Slacken and remove the bolt securingthe wiring retaining bracket to the swivel

hub

Chapter 9. If not, unscrew the two boltssecuring the brake caliper assembly to theswivel hub, and slide the caliper assembly offthe disc. Using a piece of wire or string, tie thecaliper to the front suspension coil spring, toavoid placing any strain on the hydraulicbrake hose. Discard the caliper mountingbolts - they must be renewed whenever theyare disturbed.6 Slacken and remove the bolt securing thewiring retaining bracket to the top of theswivel hub (see illustration).7 On models with ABS, remove the wheelsensor as described in Chapter 9.8 On all models, slacken and remove the nutsecuring the steering gear track rod balljointto the swivel hub, and release the balljointtapered shank using a universal balljointseparator.9 Slacken and remove the three nutssecuring the balljoint to the lower suspensionarm, then withdraw the bolts and free theballjoint from the arm (see illustration).10 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivelhub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, notingwhich way around it is fitted.11 Free the swivel hub assembly from theend of the strut, then release it from the outerconstant velocity joint splines, and remove itfrom the vehicle. If the swivel hub is a tight fiton the strut, use a large flat-bladedscrewdriver to carefully open up the clamp alittle (see illustration).

2.9 Undo the three lower suspension armballjoint retaining nuts

2.11 Removing the swivel hub assembly.Note the use of the screwdriver to open up

the hub clamp

2.14 On refitting, ensure the swivel hubclamp is aligned with the lug (arrowed) onthe strut prior to inserting the clamp bolt

A tool to prevent the hubrotating can be fabricatedfrom two lengths of steel strip(one long, one short) and a nut

and bolt; the nut and bolt forming thepivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to thehub using two wheel bolts, and hold thetool to prevent the hub from rotating asthe driveshaft nut is undone (seeChapters, Section 2).

2 Front swivel hub assembly -removal and refitting


Refitting12 Note that all Nyloc nuts disturbed onremoval must be renewed as a matter ofcourse. These nuts have threads which arepre-coated with locking compound (this isonly effective once), and include the track rodballjoint nut, lower suspension arm balljointnuts, and the swivel hub clamp bolt nut.13 Ensure the driveshaft outer constantvelocity joint and hub splines are clean, thenslide the hub fully onto the driveshaft splines.14 Slide the hub assembly fully onto thesuspension strut, aligning the split in the hubclamp with the lug on the base of the strut.Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strutclamp bolt from the front side of the strut,then fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, andtighten it to the specified torque (seeillustration).15 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, andfit the three retaining bolts. Fit new retainingnuts to the bolts, and tighten them to thespecified torque.16 Engage the track rod balljoint in the swivelhub, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten itto the specified torque.17 Where necessary, refit the brake disc tothe hub, referring to Chapter 9 for furtherinformation. If the threads of the new calipermounting bolts are not already pre-coatedwith locking compound, apply a suitablelocking compound to them. Slide the caliperassembly into position over the disc, then fitthe mounting bolts and tighten them to thespecified torque (see Chapter 9).18 Where necessary, refit the ABS wheelsensor as described in Chapter 9.19 Refit the wiring retaining bracket to thetop of the swivel hub, and tighten its retainingbolt securely.20 Lubricate the inner face and threads ofthe driveshaft retaining nut with clean engineoil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Usethe method employed on removal to preventthe hub from rotating, and tighten thedriveshaft retaining nut to the specified torque(see Chapter 8). Check that the hub rotatesfreely.21 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, stakethe nut firmly into the driveshaft grooves usinga hammer and punch.

22 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models,engage the locking cap with the driveshaft nutso that one of its cut-outs is aligned with thedriveshaft hole. Secure the cap with the R-clip.23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

3 Front hub bearings - renewal

3.3 Front hub bearing retaining circlip

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjustedand pre-lubricated, double-row roller type,and is intended to last the car's entire servicelife without maintenance or attention. Neverovertighten the driveshaft nut beyond thespecified torque wrench setting in an attemptto "adjust" the bearing.

Note: A press will be required to dismantleand rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is notavailable, a large bench vice and spacers(such as large sockets) will serve as anadequate substitute. The bearing's inner racesare an interference fit on the hub; if the innerrace remains on the hub when it is pressedout of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearingpuller will be required to remove it.

1 Remove the swivel hub assembly asdescribed in Section 2.2 Support the swivel hub securely on blocksor in a vice. Using a tubular spacer whichbears only on the inner end of the hub flange,press the hub flange out of the bearing. If thebearing's outboard inner race remains on thehub, remove it using a bearing puller (see noteabove).3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from theinner end of the swivel hub assembly (seeillustration).4 Where necessary, refit the inner race backin position over the ball cage, and securelysupport the inner face of the swivel hub.Using a tubular spacer which bears only onthe inner race, press the complete bearingassembly out of the swivel hub.5 Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub,removing all traces of dirt and grease, andpolish away any burrs or raised edges whichmight hinder reassembly. Check both forcracks or any other signs of wear or damage,and renew them if necessary. Renew thecirclip, regardless of its apparent condition.6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil tothe bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, toaid installation of the bearing.7 Securely support the swivel hub, and locatethe bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fullyinto position, ensuring that it enters the hubsquarely, using a tubular spacer which bearsonly on the bearing outer race.8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,secure the bearing in position with the new

circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located inthe groove in the swivel hub.9 Securely support the outer face of the hubflange, and locate the swivel hub bearinginner race over the end of the hub flange.Press the bearing onto the hub, using atubular spacer which bears only on the innerrace of the hub bearing, until it seats againstthe hub shoulder. Check that the hub flangerotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil orgrease.10 Refit the swivel hub assembly asdescribed in Section 2.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support on axle stands. Removethe appropriate roadwheel.2 Unscrew the two bolts securing the brakecaliper to the swivel hub, and discard them;new bolts must be used on refitting. Slackenand remove the bolt securing the wiringretaining bracket to the swivel hub, then slidethe caliper assembly off the disc. Using apiece of wire or string, tie the caliper to thefront suspension lower arm, to avoid placingany strain on the hydraulic brake hose.3 On models where the anti-roll bar isconnected to the suspension strut body, undothe nut and washer securing the connectinglink to the strut, and position the link clear ofthe strut (see illustration). Discard the nut - anew one must be used on refitting.4 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivel hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting whichway around it is fitted. Discard the nut - a newone must be used on refitting.5 Slacken and remove the two suspensionstrut upper mounting bolts.6 Release the strut from the swivel hub, andwithdraw it from under the wheel arch. If the

4.3 Where the anti-roll bar is linked to thestrut, undo the retaining nut and free the

connecting link from the strut body

4 Front suspension strut -removal and refitting


Removing the front suspension strut

swivel hub is a tight fit on the strut, carefullyopen up the clamp a little using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see illustration).

Refitting7 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position,ensuring that the top mounting plate locatingpin is correctly located in its hole. Engage thelower end of the strut with the swivel hub,aligning the split in the hub clamp with the lugon the base of the strut.8 Insert the two strut upper mounting bolts,and tighten them to the specified torque (seeillustration).9 Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strutclamp bolt from the front side of the strut. Fita new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it tothe specified torque.10 Where necessary, refit the anti-roll barconnecting link to the strut. Fit a new nut tothe connecting link, and tighten it to thespecified torque.11 Slide the brake caliper into position overthe disc. If the threads of the new calipermounting bolts are not already pre-coatedwith locking compound, apply a suitablelocking compound to them. Install the boltsand tighten them to the specified torque (seeChapter 9).12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

4.8 Tighten the suspension strut uppermounting bolts to the specified torque.

Note upper mounting locating pin(arrowed)

5 Front suspension strut -overhaul

Warning: Before attempting todismantle the front suspensionstrut, a suitable tool to hold the

coil spring in compression must beobtained. Adjustable coil springcompressors are readily-available, and arerecommended for this operation. Anyattempt to dismantle the strut withoutsuch a tool is likely to result in damage orpersonal injury.

1 With the strut removed from the car asdescribed in Section 4, clean away all externaldirt, then mount it upright in a vice.2 Fit the spring compressor, and compressthe coil spring until all tension is relieved fromthe upper mounting plate.3 Remove the rubber cap, then slacken theupper mounting retaining nut whilst retainingthe strut piston with an Allen key.4 Remove the nut and washer, then lift off thecollar, mounting plate, bearing, upper springseat and flat washer. Remove the coil spring,then slide off the damper piston dust coverand rubber damper stop.5 With the strut assembly now completely

5.9a Ensure all components are clean anddry, then slide the rubber damper stop . . .

dismantled, examine all the components forwear, damage or deformation, and check thebearing for smoothness of operation. Renewany of the components as necessary.6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.Check the strut piston for signs of pittingalong its entire length, and check the strutbody for signs of damage. While holding it inan upright position, test the operation of thestrut by moving the piston through a fullstroke, and then through short strokes of 50to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance feltshould be smooth and continuous. If theresistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is anyvisible sign of wear or damage to the strut,renewal is necessary.7 If any doubt exists about the condition ofthe coil spring, carefully remove the springcompressors, and check the spring fordistortion and signs of cracking. Renew thespring if it is damaged or distorted, or if thereis any doubt as to its condition.8 Inspect all other components for signs ofdamage or deterioration, and renew any thatare suspect.9 To reassemble the strut, follow theaccompanying photos, beginning withillustration 5.9a. Be sure to stay in order, andcarefully read the caption underneath each(see illustrations).10 Refit the rubber cap to the top of the strutpiston, then refit the strut to the vehicle asdescribed in Section 4.

5.9b . . . and dust cover into position onthe strut

5.9c Refit the coil spring, ensuring thespring end is correctly located against its

stop on the lower seat (arrowed)

5.9d Fit the flat washer to the top of thestrut piston . . .


5.9e . . . then locate the upper spring seaton the spring, ensuring that the spring seatstop (arrowed) is correctly located against

the spring end

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support on axle stands. Removethe appropriate front roadwheel.2 On models where the anti-roll bar ismounted onto the lower suspension arm,slacken and remove the two nuts securing themounting bracket to the lower arm, thenwithdraw then retaining bolts and free thebracket from the arm. Discard the nuts - newones must be used on refitting.3 Slacken and remove the nut, then withdrawthe lower arm balljoint clamp bolt from theswivel hub (see illustration). Discard the nut -a new one must be used on refitting.4 Lever the arm downwards to release theballjoint from the swivel hub, and remove theprotector plate which is fitted to the balljointshank (see illustration).5 Slacken and remove the lower arm frontpivot bolt and nut, then undo the two boltssecuring the rear mounting bush to thesubframe (the larger of which is also the anti-roll bar mounting clamp bolt), and recover thenut from the top of the subframe. Manoeuvrethe lower arm assembly out from underneaththe vehicle (see illustrations).

5.9f Refit the bearing to the upper springseat, ensuring that it is fitted the correct 5.9g Locate the upper mounting plate on

way around the spring sea t . . .

5.9i Refit the washer and upper mounting5.9h . . . and refit the collar to the retaining nut, and tighten the nut to the

mounting plate specified torque

5.9j Ensure that the spring ends are still 5.9k With the compressors removed, pushcorrectly located against the seat stops, the rubber bump stop and gaiter upwardsthen release the spring compressors and until they are correctly seated inside the

remove them from the strut upper mounting plate

6.4 Release the balljoint from the swivel6.3 Removing the lower suspension arm hub, and remove the protector plate from

balljoint clamp bolt the balljoint shank6.5a Slacken and remove the lowersuspension arm front pivot bol t . . .

6 Front suspension lower arm -removal, overhaul and refitting


6.5b . . . and the two rear mounting bushbolts (second bolt arrowed).. .

Overhaul6 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and thearea around the arm mountings, removing alltraces of dirt and underseal if necessary, thencheck carefully for cracks, distortion or anyother signs of wear or damage, payingparticular attention to the pivot bushes, andrenew components as necessary.7 Check that the lower arm balljoint movesfreely, without any sign of roughness; checkalso that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign ofdeterioration, and is free from cracks andsplits. If renewal is necessary, slacken andremove its retaining bolts, and remove theballjoint from the arm. Fit the new balljoint,and insert its retaining bolts. Fit new retainingnuts to the bolts, and tighten them to thespecified torque.8 Examine the shank of the pivot bolt forsigns of wear or scoring, and renew ifnecessary.

Refitting9 Manoeuvre the lower arm assembly intoposition, and refit the front pivot bolt,tightening it finger-tight only. Refit the tworear pivot bush retaining bolts, and tightenboth to their specified torque settings.10 Refit the protector plate to the lower armballjoint, then locate the balljoint shank in theswivel hub, ensuring that the lug on theprotector plate is correctly located in theclamp split. Insert the balljoint clamp bolt,then fit the new retaining nut and tighten it tothe specified torque.

6.5c . . . then remove the lower arm fromthe vehicle

11 Where necessary, align the anti-roll barmounting bracket with the lower arm, andinsert its retaining bolts. Fit new nuts to thebolts, and tighten them to the specifiedtorque.12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle and tighten the roadwheel bolts to thespecified torque. Rock the vehicle to settle thedisturbed components in position, thentighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to thespecified torque (see illustration).

Removal1 Release the balljoint from the swivel hub asdescribed in Section 6, paragraphs 1 to 4.2 Slacken and remove the three nuts, thenwithdraw the balljoint retaining bolts andremove the balljoint from the lower arm (seeillustrations). Discard the nuts - new onesmust be used on refitting.3 Check that the lower arm balljoint movesfreely, without any sign of roughness. Checkalso that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign ofdeterioration, and is free from cracks andsplits. Renew worn or damaged componentsas necessary.

Refitting4 Locate the balljoint in the end of thesuspension arm, and insert the three retaining

6.12 With the vehicle resting on its wheels,tighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to the

specified torque setting

bolts. Fit new nuts to the bolts, and tightenthem to the specified torque.5 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 10 to 12 of Section 6.

8 Front suspension anti-rollbar - removal and refitting

7.2a Remove the three retaining bolts . . . 7.2b . . . and remove the lower armballjoint

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support on axle stands. Removeboth front roadwheels.2 On models where the anti-roll bar ismounted onto the lower suspension arm,slacken and remove the two nuts and boltssecuring the mounting bracket to the left-hand lower arm, then undo the nut securingthe connecting link to the anti-roll bar, andremove the connecting link and bracketassembly. Repeat the procedure on the right-hand side.3 On models where the anti-roll bar isconnected to the suspension strut body, undothe nut and washer securing the left-handconnecting link to the anti-roll bar, andposition the link clear of the bar. Repeat theprocedure on the right-hand side.4 On models with power steering, usingbrake hose clamps, clamp both the supplyand return hoses near the power steering fluidreservoir. This will minimise fluid loss duringsubsequent operations. Mark the unions toensure they are correctly positioned onreassembly, then unscrew the feed and returnpipe union nuts from the steering gearassembly; be prepared for fluid spillage, andposition a suitable container beneath thepipes whilst unscrewing the union nuts.Disconnect both pipes, and plug the pipeends and steering gear orifices, to preventexcessive fluid leakage and the entry of dirtinto the hydraulic system.5 On all models, using a hammer and punch,white paint or similar, mark the exactrelationship between the steering intermediateshaft universal joint and the steering geardrive pinion. Slacken and remove the clampbolt securing the joint to the pinion, and freethe intermediate shaft from the steering gear.

7 Front suspension lower armballjoint - removal and refitting


8.10 Slacken and remove the bolt and nut(arrowed) and remove the anti-roll bar

mounting clamp

6 Slacken and remove the nut securing theleft-hand steering gear track rod balljoint tothe swivel hub, and release the balljointtapered shank using a universal balljointseparator. Repeat the procedure on the right-hand side.7 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models withmanual transmission, using a largescrewdriver, carefully lever the threegearchange linkage link rods off theirballjoints on the transmission unit.8 Slacken and remove the engine/trans-mission rear mounting through-bolt and nut.9 Slacken and remove the four frontsubframe mounting bolts which are situatedat the rear of the subframe. Loosen the twofront subframe mounting bolts by a few turns,until it is possible to lower the rear edge of thesubframe approximately 65 mm. Wedge ablock of wood between the rear of thesubframe and the vehicle underbody, to holdthe subframe in this position.10 Slacken the two anti-roll bar mountingclamp retaining bolts, and recover the nutsfrom the top of the clamps (see illustration).Remove both clamps from the subframe.11 Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar out fromunderneath the vehicle, and remove themounting bushes from the bar.12 Carefully examine the anti-roll barcomponents for signs of wear, damage ordeterioration, paying particular attention tothe mounting bushes. Renew worncomponents as necessary.

Refitting

13 Fit the rubber mounting bushes to theanti-roll bar, ensuring that the recess on theinside of each bush engages with the lugs onthe anti-roll bar. Rotate each bush so that itsmarking is aligned with the paint mark on theanti-roll bar.14 Offer up the anti-roll bar, and manoeuvreit into position on the subframe. Refit themounting clamps, ensuring that their ends arecorrectly located in the hooks on thesubframe, and refit the retaining bolts andnuts. Ensure that the bush markings are stillaligned with the paint marks on the bars, then

9.3a Anti-roll bar connecting link lowerretaining n u t . . .

tighten the mounting clamp retaining bolts tothe specified torque.15 The remainder of the refitting is a reversalof the removal procedure, noting the followingpoints:(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must

be renewed as a matter of course. Thesenuts have threads which are pre-coatedwith locking compound (this is onlyeffective once), and include the track rodballjoint nuts, connecting link nuts, enginemounting bolt nut, and the intermediateshaft clamp bolt nut. The intermediateshaft clamp bolt nut is retained by a metalcage; release the cage retaining tangs,then remove the old nut from inside thecage and install the new one. Refit thecage to the shaft, and secure it in positionwith the retaining tangs.

(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque settings (where given).

(c) Align the marks made on removal whenreconnecting the intermediate shaft to thesteering gear splines.

(d) On models with power steering, bleed thehydraulic system as described in Sec-tion 24.

(e) On completion check and, if necessary,adjust the front wheel alignment asdescribed in Section 28.

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack upthe front of the car and support it on axlestands.2 On models where the anti-roll bar isconnected to the lower suspension arms,slacken and remove the nut and bolt securingthe link to the lower arm bracket, then undothe nut and washer securing the link to theanti-roll bar. Disengage the connecting linkfrom the end of the anti-roll bar, and remove itfrom the vehicle.3 On models where the anti-roll bar is

9.3b . . . and upper retaining nut - modelswith the anti-roll bar connected to the

suspension strut body

connected to the strut, slacken and removethe upper and lower connecting link retainingnuts and washers, and remove the link fromthe vehicle (see illustrations).4 Examine the connecting link for signs ofdamage, paying particular attention to themounting bushes or balljoints (as applicable),and renew if necessary. It is not possible torenew the bushes or balljoints separately.Note that the connecting link retaining nutsmust be renewed as a matter of course.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, using new retaining nuts andtightening them to the specified torquesetting.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it on axle stands. Removeboth front roadwheels.2 Remove the anti-roll bar connecting links asdescribed in Section 9.3 Slacken and remove the rearengine/transmission through-bolt and nut,then undo the nut and bolt securing themounting bracket to the subframe andremove the bracket.4 Slacken and remove the three nuts, thenwithdraw the balljoint retaining bolts anddisengage the left-hand balljoint from thelower arm. Repeat the procedure on the right-hand side.5 Slacken the steering gear mounting bolts,and recover the nuts. Withdraw the mountingbolts, and recover the spacers from thesubframe apertures.6 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models withmanual transmission, using a largescrewdriver, carefully lever the threegearchange linkage link rods off theirballjoints on the transmission unit. Slackenand remove the pivot bolt securing theselector rod to the gearchange lever.

10 Front suspension subframe -removal and refitting

9 Front suspension anti-roll barconnecting link -removal and refitting


10.7 Power steering pipe-to-subframeretaining clip

7 On models with power steering, undo thenut securing the steering gear pipe to itsmounting bracket on the subframe, and freeboth pipes from any subframe retaining clips(see illustration).8 On right-hand-drive models, undo the nutsecuring the clutch cable retaining clip to thesubframe, and disengage the cable from itsretaining clips on either side of the subframe.9 Slacken and remove the four rear frontsubframe mounting bolts and the two frontmounting bolts, then carefully lower thesubframe assembly out of position andremove it from underneath the vehicle (seeillustrations). On models with power steering,take great care to ensure the subframeassembly does not catch the power steeringpipes as it is lowered out of position.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must

be renewed as a matter of course. Thesenuts have threads which are pre-coatedwith locking compound (this is onlyeffective once), and include theconnecting link nuts, lower arm balljointnuts, engine mounting bolt nuts andsteering gear bolt nuts.

(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque settings (where given).

(c) On completion check and, if necessary,adjust the front wheel alignment asdescribed in Section 28.

10.9a Front subframe left-hand rearmounting bolts (arrowed)...

Rear drum brakes1 On models with rear drum brakes, the rearhub is an integral part of the brake drum.Refer to Chapter 9 for drum removal andrefitting details.

Rear disc brakesNote: Do not remove the hub assembly unlessit is absolutely necessary. A puller will berequired to draw the hub assembly off thestub axle, and the hub bearing will almostcertainly be damaged by the removalprocedure.

Removal2 Remove the rear brake disc as described inChapter 9.3 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladedscrewdriver, carefully tap and prise the capout of the centre of the hub. Discard the cap -a new one must be used on refitting. Using ahammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up thestaking securing the hub retaining nut to thegroove in the stub axle (see illustrations).4 Using a socket and long bar, slacken andremove the rear hub nut, and withdraw thethrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nutmust used on refitting.

10.9b . . . and front mounting bolt

5 Using a puller, draw the hub assembly offthe stub axle, along with the outer bearingrace (see illustration). With the hub removed,use the puller to draw the inner bearing raceoff the stub axle, then remove the hub spacer,noting which way around it is fitted.6 Refit the races to the hub bearing, andcheck the hub bearing for signs of roughness.It is recommended that the bearing should berenewed as a matter of course, as it is likely tohave been damaged during removal. Thismeans that the complete hub assembly mustbe renewed, since it is not possible to obtainthe bearing separately.7 With the hub removed, examine the stubaxle shaft for signs of wear or damage, and ifnecessary renew it. The stub axle is aninterference fit in the trailing arm, and caneither be tapped out of position, using ahammer and a soft-metal drift, or pushed outusing a heavy-duty bearing puller. Wheninstalling the new stub axle, align its splineswith those of the trailing arm, and drift orpress it fully into position in the arm.

Refitting8 Lubricate the stub axle shaft with cleanengine oil, then slide on the spacer, ensuring itis fitted the correct way round.9 Fit the new bearing inner race, and tap itfully onto the stub axle using a hammer and atubular drift which bears only on the flat insideedge of the race.

11.3a Tap off the hub centre cap . . . 11.3b . . . then tap up the rear hub stakingusing a hammer and suitable punch

11.5 Use a puller to draw the hubassembly off the stub axle

11 Rear hub assembly -removal and refitting


11.11a Fit the thrustwasher and new hubn u t . . .

11.11b . . . and tighten the nut to thespecified torque

10 Ensure that the bearing is packed withgrease, then slide the hub assembly onto thestub axle. Fit the new outer bearing race, andtap it into position using the tubular drift.11 Fit the thrustwasher and new hub nut, andtighten the hub nut to the specified torque.Stake the nut firmly into the groove on thestub axle to secure it in position, then tap thenew hub cap into place in the centre of thehub (see illustrations).12 Refit the rear brake disc as described inChapter 9.

12 Rear hub bearings - renewal

Note: The bearing is intended to last the car'sentire service life without maintenance orattention. Never overtighten the hub nutbeyond the specified torque wrench setting, inan attempt to "adjust" the bearings.

Rear drum brakes1 Remove the rear brake drum as describedin Chapter 9.2 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, lever thespacer out of the rear of the brake drum,noting which way around it is fitted.3 Using circlip pliers, extract the bearingretaining circlip from the centre of the brakedrum.4 Securely support the drum hub, then pressor drive the bearing out of position, using atubular drift which bears on the bearing innerrace.5 Thoroughly clean the hub, removing alltraces of dirt and grease, and polish away anyburrs or raised edges which might hinderreassembly. Check the hub for cracks or anyother signs of wear or damage, and renewthem if necessary. The bearing and its circlipmust be renewed whenever they aredisturbed. Note that a replacement bearingkit, which consists of the bearing, circlip andspacer, is available from Citroen dealers.6 Examine the stub axle shaft for signs ofwear or damage, and if necessary renew it.

11.11d . . . stake the hub nut firmly into thestub axle groove . . .

The stub axle is an interference fit in thetrailing arm, and can either be tapped out ofposition, using a hammer and a soft-metaldrift, or pushed out using a heavy-dutybearing puller. When installing the new stubaxle, align its splines with those of the trailingarm, and drive or press it fully into position inthe arm.7 On reassembly, apply a light film of cleanengine oil to the bearing outer race, to aidinstallation of the bearing.8 Securely support the drum, and locate thebearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully intoposition, ensuring that it enters the hubsquarely, using a tubular spacer which bearsonly on the bearing outer race.9 Ensure the bearing is correctly seatedagainst the hub shoulder, and secure it inposition with the new circlip. Ensure that thecirclip is correctly seated in its hub groove.10 Fit the new spacer to the drum, ensuring itis fitted the correct way around, and use atubular spacer to press it into squarely intoposition.11 Refit the brake drum as described inChapter 9.

Rear disc brakes12 On models with rear disc brakes, it is notpossible to renew the rear hub bearingseparately. If the bearing is worn, the

11.11e . . . then fit the new hub cap

complete rear hub assembly must berenewed. Refer to Section 11 for hub removaland refitting procedures.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.2 On some models, note that if the left-handshock absorber is to be removed, it will firstbe necessary to remove the exhaust tailpipeand tailpipe heatshield, in order to allow theshock absorber upper mounting bolt to bewithdrawn. If this is the case, refer to Chapter4 for information on exhaust system removal.3 Using a trolley jack, raise the trailing armuntil the shock absorber is slightlycompressed.4 Free the handbrake cable from its'retainingclip on the bottom of the trailing arm. Slackenand remove the nuts and washers from boththe upper and lower shock absorber mountingbolts, and free the brake hose mountingbracket from the lower mounting bolt.5 Withdraw the mounting bolts, noting whichway around they are fitted, and manoeuvre

11.11c Using a hammer and punch . . .

13 Rear shock absorber -removal, testing and refitting


13.5a Withdraw the shock absorber lowermounting bo l t . . .

the shock absorber out from underneath thevehicle (see illustrations).

Testing6 Examine the shock absorber for signs offluid leakage or damage. Test the operation ofthe shock absorber, while holding it in anupright position, by moving the piston througha full stroke and then through short strokes of50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistancefelt should be smooth and continuous. If theresistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is anyvisible sign of wear or damage, renewal isnecessary. Also check the rubber mountingbushes for damage and deterioration. Renew

13.5b . . . and the upper mounting bolt(arrowed)...

the complete unit if any damage or excessivewear is evident; the mounting bushes are notavailable separately. Inspect the shanks of themounting bolts for signs of wear or damage,and renew as necessary.

Refitting7 Prior to refitting the shock absorber, mountit upright in the vice, and operate it fullythrough several strokes in order to prime it.Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease toboth the shock absorber mounting bolts.8 Manoeuvre the shock absorber intoposition, and insert its mounting bolts; ensurethat the upper bolt is inserted from the inside

13.5c . . . and remove the shock absorberfrom underneath the vehicle

of the trailing arm, and the lower bolt from theoutside.9 Refit the nuts and washers to the mountingbolts, not forgetting to refit the brake hosebracket to the lower bolt, tightening them byhand only at this stage. Clip the handbrakecable onto the trailing arm bracket.10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car toground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to thespecified torque.11 With the car standing on its wheels, rockthe car to settle the shock absorber inposition, then tighten both the upper andlower mounting bolts to their specified torquesettings.12 Where necessary, refit the heat shield andtailpipe as described in the relevant part ofChapter 4.

14 Rear suspension torsionbar - removal and refitting

14.0 Citroen trailing arm positioning bracket dimensions

Note: To ensure the trailing arm is correctlypositioned prior to refitting the torsion bar, aspecial bracket is required. This bracket(special tool number 9501-T.G3) can beobtained from a Citroen dealer, oralternatively, a home-made substitute can befabricated; the dimensions of the Citroen toolare shown in illustration 14.0. Note that thesubstitute bracket must be accuratelyfabricated to be of use.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove both rear roadwheels, thenproceed as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Front torsion bar2 Remove the right-hand shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13.3 With the trailing arm unsupported, measurethe distance between the centres of the upperand lower shock absorber mounting boltholes, on the side from which the shockabsorber has been removed, and note thisdown; this measurement will be needed onrefitting.

Drill 14mm diameter hole


14. 6 Using a slide-hammer to withdraw atorsion bar

4 Position a trolley jack underneath the end ofthe trailing arm, and raise the jack until it issupporting the weight of the trailing arm. It isnecessary to support the trailing arm, toprevent it moving as the torsion bar isremoved. Excess trailing arm movement willplace strain on the brake lines, which couldcause them to fracture.

A tool to hold the trailing arm inposition can be fabricated from alength of threaded bar, and attached tothe shock absorber mounting boltholes.

5 Slacken and remove the Torx screw andwasher from the right-hand end of the torsionbar. Using a punch or scriber, make alignmentmarks between the torsion bar and trailingarm. Unscrew the retaining nut from the left-hand end of the torsion bar, and remove thewasher.6 The torsion bar can now be withdrawn fromthe right-hand side, using a slide-hammerwhich is screwed into the 8 mm threaded holein the end of the bar (see illustration).

14. 10 Using a jacking bolt to draw theretaining bracket off the end of the anti-roll

bar

7 Once the splines of the torsion bar arefree, the bar can be withdrawn completelyfrom its location. Note that the front and reartorsion bars are not interchangeable; thebars can be identified by the markings ontheir shafts. The front bar has one bandpainted around the left-hand end of its shaft,and the rear bar has two bands paintedaround its right-hand end.

Rear torsion bar8 Remove the left-hand shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13.9 Carry out the operations described above inparagraphs 3 and 4.10 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theanti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-handtrailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug fromthe centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x1. 5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate itsthreads and screw it into the bracket. The boltcan then be used as a jacking bolt, to drawthe bracket out of position (see illustration).Once the bracket is free from the anti-roll barsplines, remove it from the trailing arm, alongwith its sealing rings. Discard the sealing rings- new ones should be used on refitting.

11 Slacken and remove the Torx screw andwasher from the left-hand end of the torsionbar. Using a punch or scriber, make alignmentmarks between the torsion bar and trailingarm. Unscrew the retaining nut from the right-hand end of the torsion bar, and remove thewasher.12 Withdraw the torsion bar from the left-hand side, using the information given abovein paragraphs 6 and 7.

Refitting

Front torsion bar13 Ensure that the trailing arm and torsionbar splines are clean and dry, then lubricatethe splines with molybdenum disulphidegrease. Where a new torsion, bar is beinginstalled, unscrew the threaded stud from theoriginal bar, and screw it fully into the smaller-diameter end of the new bar.

14. 14a Attach the position bracket (1) tothe shock absorber lower mounting bolthole as shown, using the mounting bolt

and nut and a suitable spacer

14. 14b Using a feeler blade to check thepositioning bracket-to-crossmember

clearance

14 Ensure the distance between the upperand lower shock absorber mounting boltholes is still as measured prior to removal, andadjust as necessary. Attach the positioningbracket (see note above) to the shockabsorber lower mounting bolt hole as shownin illustration 14.14a. Using feeler blades,check that the clearance between the inneredge of the bracket and the edge of thetubular crossmember is 0. 05 mm. Ifnecessary, adjust the position of the trailingarm by tapping it lightly with a soft-facedmallet until the 0. 05 mm feeler blade is a light,sliding fit (see illustrations).15 Where the original torsion bar is beinginstalled, rotate the bar until the marks madeon removal are aligned, then slide the bar intoposition. The bar should engage freely withthe trailing arm splines for the first 8 to 10mm, and can then be tapped fully intoposition using a hammer and a soft metaldrift.16 If a new bar is being installed, rotate thebar until the position is found where the barcan be freely engaged with the first 8 to 10mm of the trailing arm splines. Having foundthis position, tap the bar fully home using ahammer and a soft metal drift.17 Once the torsion bar is fully home, refit thewasher and Torx screw to the end of the

It is possible to improvisetorsion bar removal byscrewing a long bolt with a

flat washer into the bar, and placingthe jaws of a spanner against thewasher. Striking the spanner sharplywith a hammer should free the torsionbar.


14. 17a Refit the offset washer . . .

torsion bar, and tighten it to the specifiedtorque (see illustrations).18 Ensure the trailing arm is still correctlypositioned, then unscrew the threaded studfrom the opposite end of the torsion bar untilits shoulder contacts the trailing arm cup; donot force the stud against the cup. Refit thewasher and nut to the stud, and securelytighten the nut whilst retaining the stud with asmall flat-bladed screwdriver (seeillustrations).19 Refit the rear shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13, then check and, ifnecessary, adjust the vehicle ride height asdescribed in Section 18.

Rear torsion bar20 Refit the torsion bar as described above inparagraphs 13 to 19.21 Unscrew the plastic plug from the centreof the opposite anti-roll bar retaining bracket,and screw a short 8 mm bolt and washer intothe end of the anti-roll bar. Securely tightenthe bolt to hold the anti-roll bar in position.22 Apply a smear of the special grease(Mobil Temp G9, available from your Citroendealer) to the new sealing rings, and fit themto the anti-roll bar bracket. In the absence ofthe special grease, a good-qualitymolybdenum disulphide grease can be used.23 Insert the retaining bracket into position inthe trailing arm, aligning its retaining bolt holewith that of the trailing arm, and engage it withthe anti-roll bar splines. Using a soft-faced

14. 1 7 b . . . and the retaining screw to theend of the torsion b a r . . .

mallet, tap the bracket into position until theclearance between the inside of the bracketand the trailing arm is 1. 0 mm; this can bechecked using a feeler blade. If the bracket isa tight fit on the anti-roll bar splines, screw along 8 mm bolt, nut and washer into the endof the anti-roll bar. The bracket can then bedrawn into position by tighten the nut (seeillustration 16. 13b).24 Once the bracket is correctly positioned,refit its retaining bolt, not forgetting to positionthe handbrake cable bracket underneath it,and tighten it to the specified torque setting.Unscrew the bolt(s) from the end(s) of the anti-roll bar, then wipe clean the threads of theretaining bracket holes. Apply a smear ofsealant to the plugs, and refit them to thebrackets.25 Refit the rear shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13, then check and, ifnecessary, adjust the vehicle ride height asdescribed in Section 18.

15 Rear suspension trailingarm - removal and refitting

Note: To ensure the trailing arm is correctlypositioned on refitting, a special bracket isrequired. This bracket (special tool number9501-T. G3) can be obtained from a Citroendealer, or alternatively, a home-madesubstitute can be fabricated; the dimensionsof the Citroen tool are shown in illustration

14. 1 7 c . . . and tighten the screw to thespecified torque

14. 18a Screw the threaded stud out fromthe end of the opposite end of the bar until

it just contacts the cup

14. 18b Refit the washer and retaining nut,and securely tighten the nut whilst

retaining the stud with the screwdriver

14. 0. Note that the substitute bracket must beaccurately fabricated to be of use.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove both rear roadwheels.2 Remove the relevant shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13.3 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theanti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-handtrailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug fromthe centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x1.5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate itsthreads and screw it into the bracket. The boltcan then be used as a jacking bolt, to drawthe bracket out of position. Once the bracketis free from the anti-roll bar splines, remove itfrom the trailing arm, along with its sealingrings. Discard the sealing rings - new onesshould be used on refitting. Proceed asdescribed under the relevant sub-heading.

Rear drum brakes4 Remove the brake drum as described inChapter 9.5 Work back along the length of the brakepipe/hose, and remove any retaining clipssecuring it to the trailing arm. Note that onsome models, it may be necessary to split thebrake hose at its union in order to free it fromthe trailing arm bracket; refer to Chapter 9 forfurther information.6 Undo the four bolts and washers securingthe brake backplate to the trailing arm.Carefully ease the backplate assembly overthe end of the stub axle, and position it clearof the trailing arm. Tie the backplate assemblyto the vehicle underbody, to prevent unduestrain being placed on the brake pipe.7 Remove the relevant torsion bar asdescribed in Section 14.8 The trailing arm can then be withdrawnfrom the crossmember, and removed from thevehicle.9 Inspect the trailing arm bearings, axle tubetracks and crossmember outer sleeves forsigns of wear and damage. If renewal isnecessary, the task should be entrusted to aCitroen dealer. The bearing renewalprocedure involves the use of numerous


15. 15 Ensure the seal (1) is fitted thecorrect way around, and is correctly

located on the trailing arm shoulder (a)

special tools to remove the original bearingsand install the new ones. Attempting to installthe bearings without these special tools willalmost certainly lead to damage during fitting.

Rear disc brakes10 Work back along the length of the brakehose/pipe, and remove any retaining clipssecuring it to the trailing arm. Note that onsome models, it may be necessary to split thebrake hose at its union in order to free it fromthe trailing arm bracket; refer to Chapter 9 forfurther information. On models with ABS,trace the wiring back from the wheel sensor,and disconnect it at the wiring connector.11 Slacken the two bolts securing the caliperassembly to the trailing arm, and remove themalong with the mounting plate, noting whichway around the plate is fitted. Discard thecaliper mounting bolts - they should berenewed whenever they are disturbed.12 Slide the caliper assembly off the brakedisc. Where the brake hose/pipe has not beensplit, tie the caliper to the vehicle underbody,to prevent any undue strain being placed onthe brake hose.13 Remove the relevant torsion bar asdescribed in Section 14.14 The trailing arm can then be withdrawnfrom the crossmember, and examined asdescribed above in paragraph 9.

Refitting15 Prior to refitting, inspect the trailing armseal for signs of wear or damage, and renew ifnecessary. Ensure the new seal is installed thecorrect way around, and is pressed fully ontothe trailing arm (see illustration).16 Goat the lips of the seal, and the bearingand bearing tracks, with a smear of thespecial grease (Total Multis G6, available fromyour Citroen dealer). In the absence of thespecial grease, a good-quality molybdenumdisulphide grease can be used.17 Slide the trailing arm into position in thecrossmember, until its seal is against thecrossmember sleeve. Support the trailing armso that the distance between the upper andlower mounting bolt holes is as noted prior toremoval.

16. 5a Slide the inner.

18 Refit the torsion bar as described inparagraphs 13 to 18 of Section 14.

Rear drum brakes19 Ensure the mating surfaces of the brakebackplate and trailing arm are clean and dry.Locate the backplate over the stub axle, thenrefit its retaining bolts and tighten them to thespecified torque setting.20 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket asdescribed in paragraphs 21 to 24 of Sec-tion 14.21 Reconnect the brake pipe/hose (wheresplit), and ensure the brake pipe/hose andhandbrake cable are securely retained by allthe necessary fasteners. Refit the brake drum,referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9.22 Refit the rear shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13, then check and, ifnecessary, adjust the vehicle ride height asdescribed in Section 18.

Rear disc brakes23 Slide the caliper into position over thebrake disc.24 If the threads of the new caliper mountingbolts are not already pre-coated with lockingcompound, apply a suitable lockingcompound to them. Install the new calipermounting bolts and the mounting plate, notingthat the mounting plate must be fitted so thatits bend curves away from the caliper body.With the plate correctly positioned, tighten thecaliper bolts to the specified torque setting(see Chapter 9).25 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket asdescribed in paragraphs 21 to 24 of Sec-tion 14.26 Reconnect the brake pipe/hose (wheresplit), and ensure the brake hose/pipe andhandbrake cable are securely retained by allthe necessary fasteners. Where necessary,reconnect the ABS wheel sensor wiringconnector, referring to Chapter 9 for furtherinformation.27 Refit the rear shock absorber asdescribed in Section 13. Check and, ifnecessary, adjust the vehicle ride height asdescribed in Section 18.

16. 5 b . . . and outer sealing rings off theanti-roll bar

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove both rear roadwheels.2 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theanti-roll bar retaining bracket to the right-handtrailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug fromthe centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x1.5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate itsthreads and screw it into the bracket. The boltcan then be used as a jacking bolt, to drawthe bracket out of position. Once the bracketis free from the anti-roll bar splines, remove itfrom the trailing arm, along with its sealingrings. Discard the sealing rings - new onesshould be used on refitting.

3 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theanti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-handtrailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug fromthe centre of the bracket.4 The anti-roll bar and right-hand retainingbracket assembly can now be withdrawn fromthe left-hand side, using a slide-hammerwhich is screwed into the 8 mm threaded holein the end of the anti-roll bar. It is possible toimprovise by screwing a long bolt with a flatwasher into the bar, and placing the jaws of aspanner against the washer. Striking thespanner sharply with a hammer should freethe torsion bar. Alternatively, the bar can betapped out of position, using a hammer and asoft-metal drift on the exposed right-hand endof the bar.

5 Remove the sealing rings from the left-handend of the bar (see illustrations).6 If it is wished, the anti-roll bar and left-handretaining bracket can be separated using thejacking bolt (see paragraph 2). Prior toseparation, make alignment marks betweenthe bar and bracket.7 Inspect the anti-roll bar and retainingbrackets for signs of wear or damage, andrenew if necessary. The sealing rings shouldbe renewed as a matter of course.

16 Rear suspension anti-rollbar - removal and refitting


16. 9a If a new anti-roll bar is beinginstalled, align the cut-out (arrowed) with

the bracket retaining bolt hole

16. 11a Refit the anti-roll bar and bracketassembly to the vehicle.. .

16. 1 1 b . . . then refit the retaining bracketbolt, and tighten it to the specified torque

16. 9b Using a nut and bolt to draw theretaining bracket into position on the anti-

roll bar

Refitting8 Ensure the splines of the anti-roll bar andretaining bracket(s) are clean and dry, thenapply a smear of the special grease (MobilTemp G9, available from your Citroen dealer)to them and the new sealing rings. In theabsence of the special grease, a good-quality molybdenum disulphide grease canbe used.9 If the left-hand retaining bracket and anti-roll bar were separated, refit the bracket to thebar, aligning the marks made on removal. If anew bar or bracket is being fitted, align thebracket retaining bolt hole with the cut-out onthe end of the anti-roll bar. Tap the bracketfully onto the splines using a soft-facedmallet. If the bracket is a tight fit on the anti-roll bar splines, screw a long 8 mm bolt, nutand washer into the end of the anti-roll bar.The bracket can then be drawn into positionby tightening the nut (see illustrations).10 Screw a short 8 mm bolt and washer intothe left-hand end of the anti-roll bar, andtighten it securely (see illustration). This willensure that the bar and bracket will staycorrectly engaged during the refittingprocedure.11 Slide the new sealing rings onto the anti-roll bar, then slide the bar into position fromthe left-hand side of the vehicle. Refit theretaining bracket bolt, not forgetting to

16. 10 Secure the left-hand bracket inposition with a short 8 mm bolt and

washer before refitting the anti-roll bar tothe vehicle

position the handbrake cable bracketunderneath it, and tighten it to the specifiedtorque setting (see illustrations).12 Fit the new sealing rings to the right-handretaining bracket.13 Insert the right-hand retaining bracket intoposition in the trailing arm, aligning itsretaining bolt hole with that of the trailing arm,and engage it with the anti-roll bar splines.Using a soft-faced mallet, tap the bracket intoposition until the clearance between-the insideof the bracket and the trailing arm is 1. 0 mm;this can be checked using a feeler blade. If thebracket is a tight fit on the anti-roll bar splines,screw a long 8 mm bolt, nut and washer intothe end of the anti-roll bar. The bracket canthen be drawn into position by tightening thenut (see illustrations).

14 Once the bracket is correctly positioned,refit its retaining bolt, not forgetting to positionthe handbrake cable bracket underneath it,and tighten it to the specified torque (seeillustrations).15 Unscrew the bolt(s) from the end(s) of theanti-roll bar, then wipe clean the threads ofthe retaining bracket holes. Apply a smear ofsealant to the threads of the plastic plugs, andrefit them to the brackets (see illustration).16 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car toground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to thespecified torque.

16. 13a Fit the new sealing rings to theright-hand retaining bracket, then refit the

bracket to the anti-roll bar

16. 13b Using a nut and bolt arrangementto draw the right-hand bracket into

position, whilst using a feeler blade tomeasure bracket-to-arm clearance

16. 14a Refit the handbrake cable bracketto the trailing arm, then refit the retaining

bracket bo l t . . .


16.14b . . . and tighten it to the specifiedtorque

Removal1 Remove the rear seat assembly asdescribed in Chapter 11.2 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack upthe rear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove both rear roadwheels, thenlower the spare wheel out from underneaththe rear of the vehicle, and unhook the wheelcarrier.3 Remove the exhaust system and heatshield(s) as described in Chapter 4.4 Remove the handbrake lever cover, andfully slacken the handbrake cable adjusternut. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.5 On models with rear drum brakes,disconnect both cables from the handbrakelever. From underneath the vehicle, workalong the length of each cable, and free themfrom any retaining clips which secure them tothe vehicle underbody.6 On models with rear disc brakes, free theend of the handbrake inner cable from thecaliper handbrake lever, then tap the outercable out of the caliper using a hammer andpunch. Where necessary, disconnect the ABSwheel sensors at the wiring connectors, andfree them from any retaining clips.7 Trace the brake pipes back from thecaliper/backplate to their unions, which aresituated just in front of the rear axle assembly.Slacken the union nuts, and disconnect thepipes. Plug the pipe ends, to minimise fluidloss and prevent the entry of dirt into thehydraulic system. Remove any retaining clipssecuring the rear section of the pipe to thevehicle underbody.8 Make a final check that all necessarycomponents have been disconnected andpositioned so that they will not hinder theremoval procedure, then position a trolley jackbeneath the centre of the rear axle assembly.Raise the jack until it is supporting the weightof the axle.9 Remove the luggage compartment lowerside trim panels as described in Chapter 11.

16.15 Apply a smear of sealant to thethreads of the plastic plugs, and refit them

to the retaining brackets

Lift up the rear luggage compartment carpetto gain access to the rear axle retaining nuts.Slacken and remove the two retaining nutsand washers from each front mountingassembly, and the single nut and washersecuring each rear mounting assembly to thevehicle.10 Carefully lower the jack and axleassembly out of position, and remove it fromunderneath the vehicle.11 Examine the rear axle mountings for signsor damage or deterioration of the mountingrubber, and renew if necessary. Note that allfour mountings should be renewed as a set;do not renew the mountings individually.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, bearing in mind the followingpoints:(a) Raise the rear axle assembly into position,

and tighten the mounting retaining nuts totheir specified torque settings.

(b) Ensure the brake pipes, handbrake cablesand wiring (as applicable) are correctlyrouted, and retained by all the necessaryretaining clips.

(c) Securely tighten the brake pipe unionnuts.

(d) Adjust the handbrake cable as describedin Chapter 9.

(e) On completion, lower the vehicle to theground, and bleed the braking systemhydraulic circuit as described in Chap-ters.

(f) Check and, if necessary, adjust thevehicle ride height as described inSection 18.

Checking1 Position the unladen vehicle on a levelsurface, with the tyres correctly inflated; rollthe vehicle backwards and forwards, torelieve any stress in the suspensioncomponents. For the ride heightmeasurements to be accurate, the vehiclemust be loaded with the equivalent of 4occupants and approximately 40 kg ofluggage.2 The front ride height is measured betweenthe centre of the front lower suspension armpivot and the ground; the rear ride heightmeasurement is taken between the loweredge of the 58 mm section of the tubularcrossmember and the ground (seeillustration).3 Take three measurements on the right-handside of the vehicle, then take the average ofthese three to be the correct right-handheight. Repeat the procedure on the left-handside, to find the correct left-hand height. Notethat the maximum permissible differencebetween the left- and right-hand side is10 mm. Add both the left- and right-hand sideaverages together, and divide by two toobtain the correct vehicle ride height.4 Compare the measurement obtained withthose given in the Specifications at the start ofthis Chapter.5 If the front ride height differs significantlyfrom that specified, one OT the suspension

Front axle Rear axie

18.2 Vehicle front (a) and rear (b) ride height measurement points

17 Rear axle assembly -removal and refitting

18 Vehicle ride height -checking and adjustment


components must be worn or damaged; noadjustment is possible. Inspect all the frontsuspension components for signs of wear ordamage, such as worn bushes, and renewcomponents as necessary. If no sign ofdamage can be found, the vehicle should betaken to a Citroen dealer for a more detailedexamination.6 If the rear ride height differs from thatspecified, adjust it as follows.

Adjustment (rear ride height only)7 Determine the amount of adjustmentrequired. The rear suspension height can beadjusted in multiples of 3 mm, by rotating therear torsion bars. If adjustment is necessary,determine the number of splines the torsionbar must be moved, noting that one spline isequal to roughly 3 mm of ride height. Forexample, if the ride height needs adjusting by10 mm, the torsion bar should be moved bythree splines. If the height difference betweensides was excessive, compensate for thisduring the adjustment procedure.8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove both rear roadwheels.9 Working first on the left-hand side, removethe rear torsion bar as described in Sec-tion 14.10 Noting that a 2 mm change in distancebetween the rear shock absorber mountingbolt holes equals a 3 mm change in rideheight, or one spline of torsion bar movement,raise or lower the trailing arm by the requiredamount. Note that increasing the distancebetween the bolt holes increases ride height,and decreasing the distance lowers the rideheight; if the ride needs lowering by 9 mm,decrease the distance between the shockabsorber mounting bolt holes by 6 mm byraising the trailing arm.11 Rotate the torsion bar by the requirednumber of splines and in the requireddirection, and relocate it with the trailing armsplines. The bar should engage freely with thetrailing arm splines for the first 8 to 10 mm,and can then be tapped into fully into positionusing a hammer and a soft metal drift.12 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket asdescribed in Section 14.13 Remove the front torsion bar as described

19.2a Remove the centre pad . . .

in Section 14, and repeat the proceduredescribed in paragraphs 10 and 11 on theright-hand side. Secure the bar in position asdescribed in Section 14.14 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car toground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to thespecified torque.15 With the car standing on its wheels, rockthe car to settle the disturbed suspensioncomponents, then tighten the shock absorbermounting bolts to the specified torquesettings.16 Recheck the vehicle ride heights asdescribed earlier in this Section and, ifnecessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.Note that it may be necessary to adjust theheadlight beam alignment, referring toChapter 12 for further information.

Removal1 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition, and release the steering lock byinserting the ignition key.2 Carefully ease off the steering wheel centrepad, then slacken and remove the steeringwheel retaining nut (see illustrations).3 Mark the steering wheel and steeringcolumn shaft in relation to each other, then liftthe steering wheel off the column splines. If itis tight, tap it up near the centre, using thepalm of your hand, or twist it from side to side,

19.4a Indicator cancelling lug is secured tothe base of the steering wheel by a circlip

19.2b . . . then slacken and remove thesteering wheel retaining nut

whilst pulling upwards to release it from theshaft splines.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting thefollowing points:(a) Check the indicator cancelling lug fitted to

the rear of steering wheel is in goodcondition, and if necessary renew it. Thelug is retained by a circlip (seeillustration).

(b) Prior to refitting, ensure that the indicatorswitch stem is in its central position.Failure to do this could lead to thesteering wheel lug breaking the switch tabas the steering wheel is refitted.

(c) On refitting, align the marks made onremoval, and tighten the retaining nut tothe specified torque (see illustration).

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inSection 19.3 Release the panel fasteners by rotatingthem through a quarter of a turn, and removethe driver's side lower facia panel.4 Slacken and remove the five screws whichsecure the two halves of the steering columnshrouds together, then remove both the upperand lower shroud (see illustrations).

19.4b Tighten the steering wheel retainingnut to the specified torque

20.4a Undo the five steering columnshroud retaining screws (arrowed)...

19 Steering wheel -removal and refitting 20 Steering column - removal,

inspection and refitting


20.4b . . . then remove the both thelower. . .

20.4c . . . and upper shroud sections 20.6 Disconnecting the ignition switchwiring connectors

5 Release the facia felt undercover retainingclips, and peel back the material. Release theheater duct, and remove the duct to gainaccess to the steering column mountings.6 Tilt the steering column fully downwards,and disconnect the wiring connectors fromthe steering column combination switchesand the three wiring connectors from theignition switch (see illustration). Free thewiring from any relevant retaining clips.7 Make alignment marks between theuniversal joint on the base of the steeringcolumn and the intermediate shaft, thenslacken and remove the universal joint clampbolt.8 Slacken and remove the four steeringcolumn mounting nuts, then release thesteering column from its mountings, andrecover the column mounting spacers fromthe lower mounting studs (see illustration).Disengage the universal joint from theintermediate shaft, and remove the steeringcolumn assembly from the vehicle.9 To remove the intermediate shaft, firmlyapply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Disengage the rubber gaiter from the floor,and slide it off the end of the shaft. Makealignment marks between the universal jointon the base of the intermediate shaft andsteering gear pinion, then slacken andremove the universal joint clamp bolt (see

illustrations). Release the shaft from thepinion splines, and remove it from thevehicle.

Inspection10 The steering column incorporates atelescopic safety feature. In the event of afront-end crash, the shaft collapses andprevents the steering wheel injuring the driver.Before refitting the steering column, examinethe column and mountings for signs ofdamage and deformation, and renew asnecessary.11 Check the steering shaft for signs of freeplay in the column bushes, and check theuniversal joints for signs of damage orroughness in the joint bearings. If any damageor wear is found on the steering columnuniversal joints or shaft bushes, the columnmust be renewed as an assembly. Inspect thecolumn lower mounting rubbers for signs ofdamage or deterioration, and renew ifnecessary.12 The steering column nuts (and, wheredisturbed, the intermediate shaft clamp boltnuts) must be renewed as a matter of course.Each nut is retained by a metal cage; releasethe cage retaining tangs, then remove the oldnut from inside the cage and install the newone. Refit the cage, and secure it in positionwith the retaining tangs (see illustration).

Refitting13 Where removed, refit the intermediateshaft, aligning the marks made prior toremoval, and engaging the universal joint withthe steering gear drive pinion splines. Refit theshaft clamp bolt, and tighten it to thespecified torque setting. Slide the rubbergaiter down the intermediate shaft, and locateit in the floorpan.14 Manoeuvre the steering column assemblyinto position then, aligning the marks madeprior to removal, engage the universal jointwith the intermediate shaft splines.15 Fit the column over its mounting studs,and refit the steering column mounting nuts,

20.8 Steering column lower mounting nuts(arrowed)

20.9a From inside the vehicle, slide therubber gaiter off the intermediate shaft..

20.9b . . . then slacken and remove theuniversal joint clamp bolt, and free the

shaft from the steering gear

20.12 Ensure the universal joint clamp boltnut cage is securely held in position by its

retaining tangs (arrowed)


20.15a Ensure the mounting rubbers andspacers are correctly positioned on the

column lower mountings . . .

not forgetting the lower mounting studspacers, and tighten them to the specifiedtorque (see illustrations).16 Position the column universal joint on theintermediate shaft, so that the top of thesteering shaft protrudes from the top of thesteering column by 58 mm (see illustration).Once correctly positioned, refit the clamp boltand tighten it to the specified torque.17 Ensuring that the wiring is correctly routedand retained by any necessary retaining clips,reconnect the wiring connectors to thecombination switches and the ignition switch.18 Refit the heater duct, ensuring that it iscorrectly seated at each end, and clip theundercover back into position.19 Position the upper and lower columnshrouds around the steering column, then refitthe retaining screws and tighten themsecurely.20 Refit the lower facia panel, and secure it inposition by rotating the fasteners through aquarter of a turn.21 Refit the steering wheel as described inSection 19.22 Release the column tilt lever, check thatthe column moves freely, then lock the leverand check the column is securely held. Ifadjustment is necessary, working through theaperture in the lower shroud, slacken the leverlocknut, then slacken the adjuster nut until thecolumn moves freely with the lever released

20.15b . . . then refit the steering columnto the vehicle

and locks securely with the lever locked. Notethat on some models, a single Nyloc nut isused instead of the locknut and adjuster nutarrangement. Where necessary, hold theadjuster nut stationary and securely tightenthe locknut. Check the operation of the leverand, if necessary, repeat the adjustmentprocedure. If a Nyloc nut is fitted, it may benecessary to renew it, to restore itseffectiveness.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Working inside the car, release the panelfasteners by rotating them through a quarterof a turn, and remove the driver's side lowerfacia panel.3 Slacken and remove the five screws whichsecure the two halves of the steering columnshrouds together, then remove the lowershroud.4 Tilt the steering column fully downwards,then trace the wiring back from the ignitionswitch, and disconnect its three wiringconnectors from the main wiring loom.5 Slacken and remove the lock retainingscrew and washer from the side of the lock(see illustration).

20.16 Adjust the position of the steeringshaft as described in text prior to

tightening the universal joint clamp bolt

6 Insert the key, and rotate it so that isaligned with the mark positioned between the"A" and "S" marks on the barrel. Using a smallflat-bladed screwdriver, depress the lockretaining lug, then withdraw the lock assemblyfrom the steering column (see illustrations).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, ensuring that the lock assembly issecurely held in position by its retaining lug.Prior to refitting the column shroud, removethe ignition key and check that the steeringlock functions correctly.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support on axle stands. Removeboth front roadwheels.2 Slacken and remove the nuts securing thesteering gear track rod balljoints to the swivelhubs, and release the balljoint tapered shanksusing a universal balljoint separator.3 Using a hammer and punch, white paint orsimilar, mark the exact relationship betweenthe intermediate shaft universal joint and thesteering gear drive pinion. Slacken and

21.5 Ignition switch/steering column lockretaining screw (arrowed)

21.6a Insert the key, positioning it asdescribed in the text, then depress the

lock retaining lug . . .

21.6b . . . and withdraw the lock assemblyfrom the steering column

21 Ignition switch/steering columnlock - removal and refitting

22 Steering gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting


22.3 Intermediate shaft universal jointclamp bolt (arrowed) viewed from

underneath

remove the clamp bolt securing the joint tothe pinion, and free the intermediate shaftfrom the steering gear (see illustration).4 Where necessary, undo the two retainingscrews, then unclip the heat shield andremove it from the top of the steering gearassembly.

Manual steering gear5 Slacken the steering gear mounting bolts,and recover the nuts. Withdraw the mountingbolts, and recover the spacers from thesubframe apertures (see illustrations).6 The steering gear assembly can then bemanoeuvred out from underneath the right-hand wheel arch. Note that on left-hand-drive1580 cc and larger-engined models withmanual transmission, it may be necessary todisconnect one or more of the gearchangelinkage link rods from their balljoints on thetransmission unit, to gain the necessaryclearance required to withdraw the steeringgear.

Power-assisted steering gear7 Using brake hose clamps, clamp both thesupply and return hoses near the powersteering fluid reservoir. This will minimise fluidloss during subsequent operations.8 Mark the unions to ensure they arecorrectly positioned on reassembly, thenunscrew the feed and return pipe union nutsfrom the steering gear assembly; be preparedfor fluid spillage, and position a suitablecontainer beneath the pipes whilstunscrewing the union nuts. Disconnect bothpipes, and plug the pipe ends and steeringgear orifices, to prevent fluid leakage and tokeep dirt out of the hydraulic system.9 Free the power steering pipes from anyretaining clips, and position them clear of thesteering gear so that they will not hinder theremoval procedure.10 Remove the steering gear as describedabove in paragraphs 5 and 6.

Overhaul11 Examine the steering gear assembly forsigns of wear or damage, and check that therack moves freely throughout the full length ofits travel, with no signs of roughness or

22.5a Slacken and remove the twosteering gear retaining bolts (viewed

underneath the front of the vehicle)...

excessive free play between the steering gearpinion and rack. It is possible to overhaul thesteering gear assembly housing components,but this task should be entrusted to a Citroendealer. The only components which can berenewed easily by the home mechanic are thesteering gear gaiters, the track rod balljointsand the track rods. Track rod, track rodballjoint and steering gear gaiter renewalprocedures are covered in Sections 27, 26and 23 respectively.12 On models with power steering, inspectall the steering gear fluid unions for signs ofleakage, and check that all union nuts aresecurely tightened. Also examine the steeringgear hydraulic ram for signs of fluid leakage ordamage, and if necessary renew it.

Refitting13 Note that all Nyloc nuts disturbed onremoval must be renewed as a matter ofcourse. These nuts have threads which arepre-coated with locking compound (this isonly effective once), and include the track rodballjoint nuts, steering gear mounting boltnuts, and the intermediate shaft clamp boltnut. The intermediate shaft clamp bolt nut isretained by a metal cage; release the cageretaining tangs, then remove the old nut frominside the cage and install the new one. Refitthe cage to the shaft, and secure it in positionwith the retaining tangs (illustration 20.12).14 Manoeuvre the steering gear assemblyinto position from the right-hand side of thevehicle.15 Position the spacers in the subframeapertures, then insert the mounting bolts. Fitthe new nuts onto the steering gear, thentighten the mounting bolts to the specifiedtorque. Where necessary, clip the gearchangelinkage link rods onto their balljoints.16 Clip the heat shield (where fitted) onto thetop of the steering gear, and securely tightenits two retaining screws.17 Aligning the marks made prior to removal,engage the intermediate shaft universal jointwith the steering gear pinion splines. Refit theclamp bolt with a new nut, and tighten it to thespecified torque.18 Engage the track rod balljoints in the swivel

22.5b . . . recover the nuts from the rear ofthe steering gear, and the spacers from

the subframe apertures (arrowed)

hubs, then fit a new retaining nut to each one.Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.19 On models with power steering, wipeclean the feed and return pipe unions, thenrefit them to their respective positions on thesteering gear, and tighten the union nuts totheir specified torque settings. Ensure thepipes are correctly routed, and are securelyheld by all the necessary retaining clips.20 On all models, refit the roadwheels, thenlower the vehicle to the ground and tightenthe roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.21 Where necessary, remove the hoseclamps from the power steering hoses, thentop-up the fluid reservoir and bleed thehydraulic system as described in Section 24.22 On completion check and, if necessary,adjust the front wheel alignment as describedin Section 28.

Manual steering gear1 Remove the track rod balljoint as describedin Section 26.2 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiteron the track rod, then release the retainingclips and slide the gaiter off the steering gearhousing and track rod end.3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and thesteering gear housing, using fine abrasivepaper to polish off any corrosion, burrs orsharp edges, which might damage the newgaiter's sealing lips on installation. Scrape offall the grease from the old gaiter, and apply itto the track rod inner balljoint. (This assumesthat grease has not been lost or contaminatedas a result of damage to the old gaiter. Usefresh grease if in doubt.)4 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the trackrod end, and locate it on the steering gearhousing. Align the outer edge of the gaiterwith the mark made on the track rod prior toremoval, then secure it in position with newretaining clips.5 Refit the track rod balljoint as described inSection 26.

23 Steering gear rubbergaiters - renewal


25.3 Undo the retaining nut (arrowed), andfree the feed pipe from the rear of the

power steering pump. Fluid supply hoseretaining clip also arrowed

Power-assisted steering gear6 On power-assisted steering gearassemblies, it is only possible to renew thegaiter nearest the drive pinion, ie the right-hand gaiter on right-hand-drive models, andthe left-hand gaiter on left-hand-drive models.This can be renewed as described above inparagraphs 1 to 5.7 The task of renewing the opposite gaitershould be entrusted to a Citroen dealer. Thisis necessary since it is not possible to passthe gaiter over the steering rack stud to whichthe hydraulic ram is fixed. Therefore, thesteering gear must be dismantled and therack removed from the housing to allow thegaiter to be renewed.8 The only task on this end of the assemblywhich can be carried out by the homemechanic is the renewal of the track rod innerballjoint dust cover. The dust cover can berenewed once the track rod balljoint has beenremoved as described in Section 26. Onrefitting, ensure the dust cover is correctlylocated on the track rod and steering rack,then refit the balljoint.

1 This procedure will only be necessary whenany part of the hydraulic system has beendisconnected.2 Referring to Chapter 1, remove the fluidreservoir filler cap, and top-up with thespecified fluid to the maximum level mark.3 With the engine stopped, slowly move thesteering from lock-to-lock several times topurge out the trapped air, then top-up thelevel in the fluid reservoir. Repeat thisprocedure until the fluid level in the reservoirdoes not drop any further.4 Start the engine, then slowly move thesteering from lock-to-lock several times topurge out any remaining air in the system.Repeat this procedure until bubbles cease toappear in the fluid reservoir.5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormalnoise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicatesthat there is still air in the system. Check this

24 Power steering system -bleeding

25.5a The two front power steering pumpretaining bolts can be accessed through

holes in the drive pulley

by turning the wheels to the straight-aheadposition and switching off the engine. If thefluid level in the reservoir rises, then air ispresent in the system, and further bleeding isnecessary.6 Once all traces of air have been removedfrom the power steering hydraulic system,turn the engine off and allow the system tocool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up tothe maximum mark on the power steeringfluid reservoir, topping-up if necessary.

25 Power steering pump -removal and refitting

Removal1 Release the drivebelt tension as describedin Chapter 1, and unhook the drivebelt fromthe pump pulley. The power steering pump iseither mounted directly above or directlybelow the alternator, depending on the enginetype and the specification level of the vehicle.2 Using brake hose clamps, clamp both thesupply and return hoses near the powersteering fluid reservoir. This will minimise fluidloss during subsequent operations.3 Undo the retaining nut, and free the powersteering hose retaining clip from the rear ofthe pump, where necessary (see illustration).4 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnectthe fluid supply hose from the rear of thepump. If the original Citroen clip is still fitted,cut the clip and discard it; replace it with astandard worm-drive hose clip on refitting.Slacken the union nut, and disconnect thefeed pipe from the pump, along with its O-ring. Be prepared for some fluid spillage asthe pipe and hose are disconnected, and plugthe hose/pipe end and pump unions, tominimise fluid loss and prevent the entry ofdirt into the system.5 Slacken and remove the three boltssecuring the power steering pump, andremove the pump from the enginecompartment (see illustrations).Refitting6 Manoeuvre the pump into position, thenrefit its mounting bolts and tighten themsecurely.

25.5b Power steering pump uppermounting bolts (viewed from above)

7 Fit a new O-ring to the feed pipe union,then reconnect the pipe to the pump andsecurely tighten the union nut. Refit the supplypipe to the pump, and securely tighten itsretaining clip. Remove the brake hose clampsused to minimise fluid loss.8 Refit the fluid hose retaining clip to the rearof the pump, and securely tighten its retainingnut.9 Refit the drivebelt to the pump pulley, andtension it as described in Chapter 1.10 On completion, bleed the hydraulicsystem as described in Section 24.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use astraight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to markits relationship to the track rod.3 Hold the track rod, and unscrew theballjoint locknut by a quarter of a turn. Do notmove the locknut from this position, as it willserve as a handy reference mark on refitting.4 Slacken and remove the nut securing thetrack rod balljoint to the swivel hub, andrelease the balljoint tapered shank using auniversal balljoint separator (see illustration).

26.4 Using a universal balljoint separatorto free the balljoint shank from the swivel

hub

26 Track rod balljoint -removal and refitting


Discard the nut - a new one must be usedwhen refitting.5 Counting the exact number of turnsnecessary to do so, unscrew the balljoint fromthe track rod end.6 Count the number of exposed threadsbetween the end of the balljoint and thelocknut, and record this figure. If a newballjoint is to be fitted, unscrew the locknutfrom the old balljoint.7 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppyor too stiff, if excessively worn, or if damagedin any way; carefully check the stud taper andthreads. If the balljoint gaiter is damaged, thecomplete balljoint assembly must berenewed; it is not possible to obtain the gaiterseparately.

Refitting8 If a new balljoint is to be fitted, screw thelocknut onto its threads, and position it sothat the same number of exposed threads arevisible, as was noted prior to removal.9 Screw the balljoint into the track rod by thenumber of turns noted on removal. Thisshould bring the balljoint locknut to within aquarter of a turn from the locknut, with thealignment marks that were made on removal(if applicable) lined up.10 Refit the balljoint shank to the swivel hub,then fit a new retaining nut and tighten it tothe specified torque.11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.12 Check and, if necessary, adjust the frontwheel toe setting as described in Section 28,then securely tighten the balljoint locknut.

Removal1 Remove the track rod balljoint as describedin Section 26.2 Either release the retaining clips and slidethe steering gear gaiter off the end of the trackrod, or release the track rod balljoint dustcover from rack, and slide it off the track rod(as applicable). Refer to Section 23 for furtherinformation.3 Unscrew the track rod inner balljoint from thesteering rack end, preventing the steering rackfrom turning by holding the balljoint lockwasher with a pair of grips. Take great care notto mark the surfaces of the rack and balljoint.4 Remove the track rod assembly, anddiscard the lock washer - a new one must beused on refitting.5 Examine the track rod inner balljoint forsigns of slackness or tight spots, and checkthat the track rod itself is straight and freefrom damage. If necessary, renew the trackrod; it is also recommended that the steeringgear gaiter/dust cover is renewed.

Refitting6 Locate the new lock washer assembly onthe end of the steering rack, and apply a fewdrops of locking fluid to the track rod innerballjoint threads.7 Screw the balljoint into the steering rack,and tighten it to the specified torque whilstretaining the lock washer with a pair of grips.Again, take great care not to damage or markthe track rod balljoint or steering rack.8 Where a gaiter was removed, carefully slideon the new gaiter, and locate it on the steeringgear housing. Turn the steering fully fromlock-to-lock, to check that the gaiter iscorrectly positioned on the track rod, thensecure it in position with new retaining clips.9 Where a dust cover was removed, carefullyslide on the new cover, and locate it in itsgrooves on the steering rack collar and trackrod.10 Refit the track rod balljoint as described inSection 26.

Definitions1 A car's steering and suspension geometryis defined in four basic settings - all angles areexpressed in degrees (toe settings are-alsoexpressed as a measurement); the steeringaxis is defined as an imaginary line drawnthrough the axis of the suspension strut,extended where necessary to contact theground (see illustration).2 Camber is the angle between eachroadwheel and a vertical line drawn throughits centre and tyre contact patch, whenviewed from the front or rear of the car.Positive camber is when the roadwheels aretilted outwards from the vertical at the top;negative camber is when they are tiltedinwards.3 Camber is not adjustable, and is given forreference only; while it can be checked usinga camber checking gauge, if the figureobtained is significantly different from thatspecified, the vehicle must be taken forcareful checking by a professional, as the faultcan only be caused by wear or damage to thebody or suspension components.4 Castor is the angle between the steeringaxis and a vertical line drawn through eachroadwheel's centre and tyre contact patch,when viewed from the side of the car. Positivecastor is when the steering axis is tilted sothat it contacts the ground ahead of thevertical; negative castor is when it contactsthe ground behind the vertical.5 Castor is not adjustable, and is given forreference only; while it can be checked usinga castor checking gauge, if the figure obtainedis significantly different from that specified,the vehicle must be taken for careful checkingby a professional, as the fault can only be

caused by wear or damage to the body orsuspension components.6 Steering axis inclination/SAI - also knownas kingpin inclination/KPI - is the anglebetween the steering axis and a vertical linedrawn through each roadwheel's centre andtyre contact patch, when viewed from thefront or rear of the car.7 SAI/KPI is not adjustable, and is given forreference only.8 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,between lines drawn through the roadwheelcentres and the car's centre-line. "Toe-in" iswhen the roadwheels point inwards, towardseach other at the front, while "toe-out" iswhen they splay outwards from each other atthe front.9 The front wheel toe setting is adjusted by

Castor

Camber

Steering axisinclination

28.1 Wheel alignment and steering anglemeasurements

FRONT

Toe-out

28 Wheel alignment and steeringangles - general information

27 Track rod -removal and refitting


screwing the balljoints in or out of their trackrods, to alter the effective length of the trackrod assemblies.10 Rear wheel toe setting is not adjustable,and is given for reference only. While it can bechecked, if the figure obtained is significantlydifferent from that specified, the vehicle mustbe taken for careful checking by aprofessional, as the fault can only be causedby wear or damage to the body or suspensioncomponents.

Checking - general11 Due to the special measuring equipmentnecessary to check the wheel alignment, andthe skill required to use it properly, thechecking and adjustment of these settings isbest left to a Citroen dealer or similar expert.Note that most tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment.12 For accurate checking, the vehicle mustbe at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with afull tank of fuel, and the ride height must becorrect (see Section 18).13 Before starting work, check first that thetyre sizes and types are as specified, thencheck the tyre pressures and tread wear, theroadwheel run-out, the condition of the hubbearings, the steering wheel free play, and thecondition of the front suspension components(Chapter 1). Correct any faults found.14 Park the vehicle on level ground, checkthat the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position, then rock the rear and frontends to settle the suspension. Release thehandbrake, and roll the vehicle backwards 1metre, then forwards again, to relieve anystresses in the steering and suspensioncomponents.

Toe setting - checking andadjustingFront wheel toe setting15 The front wheel toe setting is checked bymeasuring the distance between the front and

rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.Proprietary toe measurement gauges areavailable from motor accessory shops.16 Prepare the vehicle as described inparagraphs 12 to 14 above.17 Measure the distance between the frontedges of the wheel rims and the rear edges ofthe rims. Subtract the rear measurement fromthe front measurement, and check that theresult is within the specified range.18 If adjustment is necessary, apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front, of thevehicle and support it securely on axle stands.Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, andrecord the number of exposed threads on theright-hand track rod end. Now turn thesteering onto full-right lock, and record thenumber of threads on the left-hand side. Ifthere are the same number of threads visibleon both sides, then subsequent adjustmentshould be made equally on both sides. If thereare more threads visible on one side than theother, it will be necessary to compensate forthis during adjustment. Note: It is mostimportant that after adjustment, the samenumber of threads are visible on each trackrod end.

19 First clean the track rod threads; if theyare corroded, apply penetrating fluid beforestarting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiteroutboard clips (where necessary), and peelback the gaiters; apply a smear of grease tothe inside of the gaiters, so that both are free,and will not be twisted or strained as theirrespective track rods are rotated.20 Use a straight-edge and a scriber orsimilar to mark the relationship of each trackrod to its balljoint then, holding each track rodin turn, unscrew its locknut fully.21 Alter the length of the track rods, bearingin mind the note made in paragraph 18. Screwthem into or out of the balljoints, rotating thetrack rod using an open-ended spanner fittedto the flats provided on the track rod.Shortening the track rods (screwing them into

28.21 Adjusting the front wheel alignment

their balljoints) will reduce toe-in/increase toe-out (see illustration).22 When the setting is correct, hold the trackrods and securely tighten the balljointlocknuts. Check that the balljoints are seatedcorrectly in their sockets, and count theexposed threads to check the length of bothtrack rods. If they are not the same, then theadjustment has not been made equally, andproblems will be encountered with tyrescrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheelspokes will no longer be horizontal when thewheels are in the straight-ahead position.23 If the track rod lengths are the same,lower the vehicle to the ground and re-checkthe toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. Whenthe setting is correct, securely tighten thetrack rod balljoint locknuts. Ensure that therubber gaiters are seated correctly, and arenot twisted or strained, and secure them inposition with new retaining clips (wherenecessary).

Rear wheel toe setting24 The procedure for checking the rear toesetting is same as described for the front inparagraph 17. The setting is not adjustable -see paragraph 10.

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering - Podolsk · Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting...

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Transcript of Chapter 10 Suspension and steering - Podolsk · Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting...