CHAPTER 1 - Priscilla's Crochet

CHAPTER 1

Crochet for Needleworkers

CROCHET FOR NEEDLEWORKERS SECTION 1

Afghan Hooks, Cro-Hooks or Knitting Needle Roll Materials:

About 3 ounces of worsted weight acrylic yarn Crochet hook size H or size needed for gaugeThree buttons or three 2’ lengths of ribbon, depending on

the closure you chooseNeedle & thread to match yarn

Gauge: 5 sc = about 1 1/2 “5 rows of sc = about 1 1/2 “Finished size will depend on the number of “pockets” to hold hooks or needles.Directions are for case that will hold 10” hooks or needles, and will be worked on 50 stitches. Changes for case that will hold 14” hooks or needles is in parenthesis, and will be worked on 62 stitches.

CaseCh 51. (63)Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across; ch 1, turn.

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AFGHAN HOOKS, CRO-HOOKS OR KNITTING NEEDLE ROLL

Designed by Priscilla HewittCopyright © 2000 Priscilla’s Crochet

http://priscillascrochet.net


Row 2: (Mark this as the right side.) Sc in each of the first 15 (21) sc, dc in the back loops only of the next 20 sc, sc in each of the last 15 (21) sc; ch 1, turn.Row 3: Sc in each of the first 15 (21) sc, dc in the unworked loops only of the next 20 sc on row 1, sc in each of the last 15 (21) sc; ch 1, turn.Row 4: Sc in each of the first 15 (21) sc, sc through both thick-nesses of the next 20 dc to form a “pocket”, sc in each of the last 15 (21) sc; ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-8: Repeat rows 2-4.Additional “pockets”: Repeat rows 5-8 until you have the desired number of hook “pockets” across your case. (I made mine with 8 hook pockets, so I repeated rows 5-8 six times.) Fasten off after you have the desired number of “pockets”.Edging With the right side facing you, fold the six stitches on either end toward the center and pin in place.Round 1: With wrong side facing you, attach yarn with a sc through both thicknesses of any corner , sc in the same st, sc along the side of the roll through both thicknesses of each of

the next 5 sts, sc in each of the next 26 (38) sts, sc through both thicknesses of the next 5 sts, 3 sc through both thick-nesses of the next st; working along the end of the roll, sc around the post of the sc along each row (along the fold); con-tinuing along the next side, 3 sc through both thicknesses of the next st, sc through both thicknesses of each of the next 5 sts, sc in each of the next 26 (38) sts, sc through both thick-nesses of the next 5 sts, 3 sc through both thicknesses of the next st; working along the end of the roll, sc around the post of the sc along each row (along the fold); sc through both thick-nesses of the same st as the first sc; join with a sl st to the first sc.Work round 2 depending on the closure you choose.Round 2 for button closure: Sl st in each sc around until you sl into the center sc of the corner diagonally opposite of the first sl st; sl st in each of the next 3 sc, ch 5 for button loop, sl st in each of the next 15 (21) sc, ch 5 for button loop; sl st in each of the next 15 (21) sc, ch 5 for button loop; continue work-ing a sl st in each sc around; join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.Round 2 for ribbon closure: Sl st in each sc around; join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.FinishingButton closure

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Place hooks or needles in the “pockets”. Roll the case, begin-ning on the opposite side from the button loops. Mark the placement for the buttons. Sew buttons in place. Push buttons through loops to close the roll.Ribbon closurePlace hooks or needles in the “pockets”. Roll the case to close. Pin the center of each of the three pieces of ribbon (evenly spaced along the length of the roll) to the outside of the roll, opposite the exposed open end of the roll. Sew each ribbon in place where pinned. Wrap both ends of each ribbon to the front of the case and tie in a bow.

Happy Crocheting!

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Aluminum Crochet Hook Case

This case is worked all in one piece and folds like a book. The hook “pockets” are crocheted into the case! This case holds 10 hooks...a complete set sizes B to K.

Materials:About 4 ounces of worsted weight “soft” yarn (I used Caron

Simply Soft)Crochet hook size F (If you crochet loosely, you may need

to use a size E)Needle and sewing threadYour choice of 14” zipper (or size needed) OR 3/4” shank

button

Gauge: Rows 1-3 = about 6 1/4” x 1”

Finished size: About 8 3/4” x 6 1/2” when opened

Lining and Hook Pockets Ch 31.Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across; ch 2, turn. (30 sc) (Note: the ch 2 does not count as the first dc in the next row for this pattern.)

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ALUMINUM CROCHET HOOK CASE Designed by Priscilla Hewitt

Copyright © 2000 Priscilla’s Crochet



Row 2: Dc in each of the first 10 sts, dc in the back loop only of each of the next 20 sc to form the back of the hook pocket; turn clockwise; dc in the free loops of the same 20 sc to form the front of the hook pocket; ch 1, turn; insert hook through the first dc of the front of the hook pocket and through the first dc of the back of the hook pocket, complete sc; *insert hook through the next dc of the front of the hook pocket and through the next dc of the back of the hook pocket, complete sc;* Repeat from * to * 18 times to completely close hook pocket; ch 1, turn.Row 3: Sc in each of the 20 sc, dc in each of the 10 dc; ch 2, turn. Check gauge.Rows 4-11: (Repeat rows 2 and 3) 4 times, ch 1 at the end of row 11.

Pattern note: Rows 12-15 form the spine of the lining.Row 12: Sc in each st across; ch 1, turn (30 sc)Row 13: Sc in the back loop only of each sc across; ch 1, turn (30 sc) (Place marker 1 in a front loop row 13 to mark row)Rows 14-15: Repeat rows 12 and 13; ch 2, turn at the end of row 15. (30 sc) (Place marker 2 in a front loop of row 15 to mark row)

Rows 16-25: Repeat rows 2-11.

Rows 26-27: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)

Row 28: Sc in the back loop only of each sc across; ch 2, turn. (30 sc) (Place marker 3 in a front loop of row 28 to mark the row.Outside CoverRow 29: Dc in the first sc, *skip next sc, dc in the next sc, dc in the skipped sc* Repeat from * to * 13 times, dc in the last sc; ch 2, turn. (14 cross sts)

Row 30: Dc in the first dc, *skip next dc, dc in the next dc, dc in the skipped dc* Repeat from * to * 13 times, dc in the last dc; ch 2, turn. (14 cross sts)Rows 31-38: Repeat row 30. Ch 1, turn at the end of row 38.Row 39: Sc in each st across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)

Pattern note: Rows 40-43 form the spine of the outside cover.

Row 40: Fold cover toward the outside center of the case. In-sert hook in the back loop of the first dc on row 39 AND through the first free front loop of row 15 (marked with marker 2); complete sc. Continue joining the back loops of

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row 39 and the free front loops of row 15 with a sc across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)Row 41-42: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc)Row 43: Insert hook into the first free loop on row 13 (marked with marker 1) and into the first front loop only on row 42 and complete a sc, continue joining the free loops of row 13 and the front loops only of row 42 with a sc across; ch 2, turn. (30 sc) Row 43: Repeat row 41.Row 44: Repeat row 29. (14 cross sts)Rows 45-53: Repeat row 30. Ch 1 at the end of row 53. (14 cross sts)Row 54: Fold cover so the edge of row 53 matches the begin-ning foundation chain; sc through both loops of row 53 AND the free loops of the beginning foundation chain across to join (30 sc); do not fasten off. Edging for zipper closure Round 1: With outside cover facing you, sc evenly through both thicknesses of the case along the bottom to join (this will be along the bottom of the hook pockets); sc in each of the free loops of row 28 (marked with marker 3); continue joining

with sc’s through both thickness along top of the case; join with a sl st to the front loop of the first sc of row 54.Round 2: (Cover piping) Continue working a sl st in the front loop of each sc around; join with a sl st to the first sl st.Round 3: (Zipper facing) Sl st in the first free back loop in the sc’s of round 1, ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each sc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 2. Fas-ten off. Weave in ends.Finishing: Sew zipper to the inside of the zipper facing, hav-ing the bottom of the zipper centered at the bottom of the spine.

Edging for button closureRound 1: With outside cover facing you, sc evenly through both thicknesses of the case along the bottom to join (this will be along the bottom of the hook pockets); sc in each of the free loops of row 28 (marked with marker 3); continue joining with sc’s through both thickness along top of the case; join with a sl st through both loops of the first sc of row 54.

Round 2: Work a sl st through both loops of each of the next 14 sc, ch 12 tightly for the button loop, sl st in each remaining sc around; join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

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Finishing: Sew button to the center of the side opposite the button loop. Slip button loop over button to close.

Happy Crocheting!

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Crochet Hook CaddyI crochet at my computer desk (don't we all?) and needed a better way to store the hooks I like to keep handy. I was keep-ing them in a pencil cup, and always had to remove all the hooks to find the one I wanted. This hook caddy has a coiled inner section that keeps the hooks separate for quick access...just insert the hooks between the coils!

Materials:About 4 ounces of a stiffer worsted weight acrylic, like Red

HeartCrochet hook size G (4 mm) or size needed to achieve

gaugeCardboard crochet thread core measuring about 3 1/2" in

diameter x 3 1/2" high (I used the core from a ball of Aunt Ly-dia’s "Denim" Quick Crochet)Gauge: Rounds 1-3 of the inner section = about 2"Finished size: About 3 3/4" in diameter x 4" high

Inner (coiled) sectionCh 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring.

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CROCHET HOOK CADDYDesigned by Priscilla Hewitt




Round 1: Work 6 sc in the ring. (6 sc) Do not join. Instead, use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in rounds 2-6.Round 2: Work 2 sc in the back loop only of each sc around. (12 sc)Round 3: (Sc in the back loop only of the first sc, 2 sc in the back loop only of the next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)Round 4: (Sc in the back loop only of each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the back loop only of the next sc) 6 times. (24 sc)Round 5: (Sc in the back loop only of each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the back loop only of the next sc) 6 times. (30 sc)Round 6: (Sc in the back loop only of each of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the back loop only of the next sc) 6 times; ch 2, turn. (36 sc)

Pattern note: The "ch 2" at the end of the rows does not count as the first dc in the next row.

Pattern note: After round 6, the pattern will be worked in spiral rows. Work tightly for best results.Row 1: Dc in the back loop only of each of the first 36 sc, dc in each of the 90 unworked loops in rounds 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1; ch 2, turn. (126 dc)

Rows 2-6: Dc through both loops of each dc across; ch 2, turn. (126 dc)Row 7: Dc through both loops of each dc across. (126 dc) Fas-ten off.Outer coverCh 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring.Round 1: Work 6 sc in the ring. (6 sc) Do not join. Instead, use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in rounds 2-6.Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)Round 3: (Sc in the first sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)Round 4: (Sc in the each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (24 sc)Round 5: (Sc in each next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (30 sc)Round 6: (Sc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times; ch 2, turn. (36 sc)

Round 7 (joining to the bottom of the inner section): Insert hook in the back loop only of the next sc and into the

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first skipped front loop of round 6 of the inner section and complete a sc, (insert hook in the back loop only of the next sc and into the next skipped front loop of round 6 of the inner section and complete a sc) 35 times. (36 sc)Rounds 8-23: Leaving the inner section hanging from the bottom of the piece, sc through both loops of each sc around. (36 sc) Fasten off after round 23.

Finishing Turn outer cover right side out to enclose the inner section. In-sert the cardboard core between the inner and outer sections. Straighten outer cover over the cardboard core.Row 1: With yarn on hook, insert hook into the stitch on the outer cover closest to the first stitch on row 7 of the inner cover, then insert hook into the first stitch on row 7 of the in-ner section and complete a sc, (insert hook into the next st on the outer cover and into the next st on the inner section and complete a sc) 35 times to enclose the cardboard core; con-tinue working a sc in each of the next 90 sts on the inner sec-tion; ch 1, turn. (126 sc)

Row 2: Sl st in each of the first 90 sts on the inner section, then continue working a sl st in each of the next 36 sc around the top perimeter of the caddy; join with a sl st in the first sl st at the top of the caddy. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Happy Crocheting!

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Cupcake PincushionsMaterials:

Small amount each of white and a pastel sport yarnCrochet hook size E (3.50 mm) or size needed to achieve

gaugeYarn needleOptional: birthday candle and colored seed beads

Gauge: Rounds 1-2 = 2”

Finished size: About 3” diameter x 2 1.2” high at widest and highest points

Cupcake “paper”With pastel yarn, ch 5; join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, work 15 more dc in the ring; join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch 3. (16 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the same st as joining, (2 dc in the next dc) 15 times; join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch 3. (32 dc)

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CUPCAKE PINCUSHIONS Designed by Priscilla Hewitt




Round 3: Ch 1, sl st around the post of the first dc, ch 3 to count as the first bpdc, bpdc in each remaining dc around; ch 1, turn. (32 bpdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, fpdc in each bpdc around; join with a sl st in the first fpdc. (32 fpdc)

Rounds 5-6: Ch 1, fpdc in each fpdc around; join with a sl st in the first fpdc. (32 fpdc)

Round 7: Ch 1, fpdc in each fpdc around; join with a sl st in the front loop only of the first fpdc. (32 fpdc)

Round 8: Fpsc in the first fpdc, (sl st in the front loop only of the next fpdc, fpsc in the same fpdc) 31 times; join with a sl st in the first fpsc. Fasten off.

Cupcake “icing”With white yarn, ch 4; join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring.

Pattern note: Do not join rounds unless otherwise indi-cated. Instead, use a stitch marker to identify the first stitch of each round.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc in the ring. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)

Round 4: (Sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (24 sc)



Rounds 7-8: Sc in each sc around. (32 sc)

Round 9: Turn. Sl st in the first sc, dc in the same st, (sl st in the next sc, dc in the same st) 31 times; join with a sl st in the first sl st. Fasten off, leaving an 18” yarn tail for sewing.

FinishingStuff cupcake “paper” with fiberfill. Place “icing” on top of pa-per a sew together with yarn tail 3/4 of the way around. Stuff “icing” and continue sewing closed. Add a candle to the center (the wax is great for sharpening needles) and sew a few seed bead “sprinkles” to the “icing”, if desired.

Happy Crocheting!

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Embroidery Floss HolderMaterials for each floss holder :

Small amount of worsted weight acrylic yarnCrochet hook size GOne 2” lucite ringFifteen 1/2” lucite ringsSmall amount of fiberfill (for optional pincushion) Optional: Pin back

Floss holder without pincushion Round 1: Work 30 sc around the 2” ring; join with a sl st to the back loop of the first sc.Round 2: Insert hook into the back loop of the next sc, then into the center of one of the 1/2” rings, complete sl st; (sl st in the back loop of the next sc, insert hook in the back loop of the next sc, then into another of the 1/2” rings; complete sl st) 14 times; join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.Floss holder with pincushion Work 30 sc around the 2” ring; join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. Set aside.

Make 2 of these: Ch 4; join with a sl st to form ring.

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EMBROIDERY FLOSS HOLDER Designed by Priscilla Hewitt


Floss holder without pincushion

Floss holder with pincushion



Round 1: Work 6 sc in the ring; do not join. Use a marker to mark the first sc.Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)Round 3: (Sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)Round 4: (Sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (24 sc) Round 5: (Sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (30 sc) Fasten off.Pincushion assemblyRound 1: Sandwich the 2” covered ring between the two round pieces (wrong sides together.) Work 20 sc through all three thicknesses; stuff pincushion; continue working 10 more sc through all three thicknesses to close pincushion; join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 2: Insert hook into the next sc, then into the center of one of the 1/2” rings, complete sl st; (sl st in the next sc, insert hook in the next sc, then into another of the 1/2” rings; com-plete sl st) 14 times; join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Optional: Sew pin back to the back of either floss holder to attach to project tote.

Happy Crocheting!

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Mending CaddyHang one inside a closet door, in the laundry room...or any-where you might need to do some quick mending.

Materials:About 2 ounces of worsted weight yarnCrochet hook size GFiberfillLarge yarn needlePackage of assorted thread (12-pack of 25 yd. spools or 24-

pack of 10 yd. spools)4 1/2” (or smaller) scissorsOptional: needles, pins, safety pins, buttons, needle

threader, other small sewing notionsFpdc (front post dc): yo and insert hook from front to back to front around post of the indicated stitch; complete dc.Fpsc (front post sc): insert hook from front to back to front around post of the indicated stitch; complete sc.Bphdc (back post hdc): yo and insert hook from back to front to back around post of the indicated stitch; complete hdc.

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MENDING CADDY Designed by Priscilla Hewitt




Bpsc (back post sc): insert hook from back to front to back around post of the indicated stitch; complete hdc.Bpdc (back post dc): yo and insert hook from back to front to back around post of the indicated stitch; complete dc.

Top Ch 4; join with a sl st to the 1st ch to form ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, work 11 more dc in the ring; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (12 dc)Round 2: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, fpdc around the same dc, (dc, fpdc) in each remaining dc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (24 sts)

Round 3: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, dc in the top of the next fpdc, fpdc around the post of the same fpdc, (dc in the next dc, dc in the top of the next fpdc, fpdc around the post of the same fpdc) in each remaining dc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (36 sts)

Round 4: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, dc in the next dc, dc in the top of the next fpdc, fpdc around the post of the same fpdc, (dc in each of the next 2 dc, dc in the top of the next fpdc, fpdc around the post of the same fpdc) in each remain-

ing dc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 sts)

Round 5: Sl st into the next dc, ch 3 to count as the first dc, work 4 more dc in the same st, skip next dc, fpsc around the post of the next fpdc, (skip next dc, 5 dc shell in the next dc, skip next dc, fpsc around the post of the next fpdc) 11 times; join with a sl st around the post of the beginning ch 3. (12 shells)

Round 6: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, bphdc around the post of the next dc, bpsc around the post of the next dc, bphdc around the post of the next dc, bpdc around the post of the next dc, skip next fpsc, (bpdc around the post of the next dc, bphdc around the post of the next dc, bpsc around the post of the next dc, bphdc around the post of the next dc, bpdc around the post of the next dc, skip next fpsc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (60 sts)

Round 7: Ch 3 to count as the 1st dc, dc in each remaining st around; join with a sl st to the front loop only of the top of the beginning ch 3. (60 dc)

Round 8: Working this round in the front loop only, ch 1, sc in the same st as joining, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dc in the next dc, (sc in the next dc, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the first sc. (84 sts) Fasten off. Weave in ends.

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Bottom Ch 4; join with a sl st to the first ch to form ring.Round 1: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, work 11 more dc in the ring; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (12 dc)Round 2: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the same st as joining, work 2 dc in each remaining dc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc)Round 3: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (36 dc)Round 4: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc)Round 5: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the begin-ning ch 3. (60 dc)Round 6: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in each remaining dc around; join with a sl st to the front loop only of the top of the beginning ch 3. (60 dc)

Round 7: Working this round in the front loop only, ch 1, hdc in the same st as joining, 2 trc in each of the next 4 dc, (hdc in the next dc, 2 trc in each of the next 4 dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (108 sts) Fasten off. Weave in ends.HangerCh 63.Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 28 ch’s; 5 dc in the next ch; dc in each of the last 30 ch’s. Fasten off. weave in ends.Bow Ch 16; sc in the 16th ch from hook to form the first loop (being careful not to twist the ch), ch 15 sc in the base of the first sc to form the second loop.

Round 1: Dc in the first ch of the first loop and in each re-maining ch of the first loop, sc in the next sc, dc in the first ch of the second loop and in each remaining ch of the second loop; join with a sl st to the next sc. Fasten off, leaving a 12’ yarn tail. Wrap the yarn tail tightly around the piece at the sc’s in the center; tie off. Weave in ends.Scissors Pocket Ch 2.

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Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (1 sc)Row 2: Work 2 sc in the sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)Row 3: 2 sc in each sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)Rows 4-5: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)Row 6: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the last sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)Rows 7-8: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)Row 9: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the last sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)Rows 10-11: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)Row 12: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in each of the next 6 sc, 2 sc in the last sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)Rows 13-14: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)Row 15: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the last sc; continuing along the side of the piece, sc in the side of each row until you reach the the point; 3 sc in the point; continuing along the other side, sc in the side of each

row; join with a sl st to the first sc; ch 60, fasten off, leaving a 12” yarn tail.Finishing Step 1: With wrong sides of the top and bottom together, align sc’s in round 8 of the top with the hdc’s in round 7 of the bottom. Sew or sl st the unworked back loops of round 8 of the top to the unworked back loops of round 7 of the bottom 3/4 of the way around. Stuff with fiber fill, then continue sew-ing or sl st-ing back loops together to close. Knot to secure, then weave in ends.Step 2: With yarn on hook and top facing you, insert hook into any sc on the top piece AND into the aligned hdc on the bottom piece, complete sc, sc in each of the next 3 dc on the top piece, sc through the two top loops of the center dc of the shell on round 5 of the top piece directly below (at the red dots on the illustration below), sc in each of the next 3 dc on the top piece, (insert hook into the next sc on the top piece AND into the next hdc on the bottom piece, complete sc, sc in each of the next 3 dc on the top piece, sc through the two top loops of the center dc of the next shell on round 5 of the top piece, sc in each of the next 3 dc on the top piece) 11 times; join with a sl st to the first sc. (96 sc) Do not fasten off. (You should have 24 little “pockets”...12 0n the inner circle and 12 on the outer circle...to hold the thread. See illustration below, right.)

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Step 3: Ch 1, sc in the same st as joining, sc in each of the next 8 trc on the bottom piece, (skip next 7 sc from step 2 on the top piece, sc in the next sc on the top piece, sc in each of the next 8 trc on the bottom piece) 11 times; join with a sl st to the first sc. (108 sc) Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Step 4: Place a spool of thread in each outer “pocket”, as shown in the picture. Thread yarn needle with an 18” piece of yarn. Leaving a 6” yarn tail, run the needle and yarn through one spool, then under the sc that separates the pockets, then through the next spool, then under the next sc. Continue around until you reach the first spool. Knot both ends of the yarn together. If using 24 smaller spools of thread, repeat for the inner circle of pockets.

Back Step 5: Sew the scissors pocket to the back as shown in the picture. Tie scissors to the yarn tail.Step 6: Sew the hanger to the back as shown in the picture.Step 7: Sew the bow to the front of the hanger as shown in the picture. Attach a 1/2” ring (or a crocheted chain loop) to the back of the hanger, behind the bow, to hang. Weave in all ends.Step 8: Optional...Attach a few buttons with safety pins to the top as shown. Add a few needles, safety pins, pins, etc.

Happy Crocheting!

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Spool Thread BoxMaterials:

About 4 ounces of white or natural worsted weight cotton yarn

Crochet hooks size G & H or size needed for gauge2 CDs1" lucite ring3/16" dowel rod cut into six 5" lengths Yarn needle3/4" flat button5" brass ringWhite sewing thread & needleSmall safety pinAbout 1 ounce of colored ww yarn

Gauge: Rounds 1-3 of bottom piece = 3 1/2 "

Finished size:Piece A should be exactly the size (or just slightly smaller) than a CD.

BottomMake 2.With size G hook, ch 4, join with a sl st in the first ch to form ring.

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SPOOL THREAD BOXDesigned by Priscilla Hewitt




Round 1: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, work 11 more dc in the ring; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the same st as joining, work 2 dc in each remaining dc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc)Round 3: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc) Fasten off.Sides

Pattern note: The "ch 2" at the end of some rows does not count as the first dc in the next row.With size H hook, ch 18.Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across; ch 1, turn. (17 sc)

Row 2: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (17 sc)

Row 3: Sc in each sc across; ch 2, turn. (17 sc)

Row 4: (Front side) dc in the back loop only of each sc across; turn, (back side) dc in the unworked front loops of the same sts; ch 1, turn. (34 dc)Row 5: Matching the stitches on the front side of the last row to the stitches on the back side of the last row, sc through both thicknesses across; ch 1, turn. (17 sc)Rows 6-9: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (17 sc)Row 10: Sc in each sc across; ch 2, turn. (17 sc)Rows 11-38: (Repeat rows 4-10) 2 times.Rows 39-42: Repeat rows 4-7.Row 43: Sl st each sc of row 42 to the corresponding st on the foundation to form a tube; do not fasten off.

Bottom edging: Work 48 sc around the bottom of the tube by working 1 sc in the side of each sc row and 2 sc in the side of each dc row; join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.

Lid Round 1: With size G hook, work 12 sc around the 1" lucite ring; join with a sl st in the front loop only of the first sc. (12 sc)

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Round 2: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the same st as joining, work 2 dc in the front loop only of each remaining sc around; join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc)Round 3: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc) Fasten off. Flip piece over to the back.Back of topRound 2: Attach yarn with a sl st in the unworked back loop of any sc on round 1 of the front, ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the same st as joining, work 2 dc in the front loop only of each remaining sc around; join with a sl st in the top of the be-ginning ch 3. (24 dc)

Round 3: Work the same as round 3 of the front. Remove hook from piece; place a small safety pin in the loop to hold the stitch. Pull rounds 2 and 3 of the back of the piece through the center hole in one of the CD's until it is all the way through (it's a little tricky, but just keep pulling through a little at a time.) Open nth piece and pick up yarn loop with hook; re-move safety pin. Pull about 10 arm's lengths of yarn through the hole.

Round 4: Ch 3 to count as the first dc, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) 11 times, pulling more yarn through the hole as needed; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc) Do not fas-ten off.Round 5: (Change to size H hook) Align stitches on the back of the piece with their corresponding stitches on the front of the piece. *(Work a sc through both the next back and front stitches) 48 times to close the piece around the perimeter of the CD; fasten off.

FinishingBottom With wrong sides of the two bottom pieces together and using size H hook, join yarn with a sc through both pieces of any stitch, (sc through the next sc of both pieces) 25 times; insert CD between pieces, (sc through the next sc of both pieces) 22 times; fasten off.Sides Step 1: Insert one the dowel pieces into each of the 6 little "pockets" formed by the double-thick dc rows.Step 2: (Top edging) Place the 5" brass ring inside the top of the tube. Join yarn with a sl st in the end of the first sc row, ch 1, inserting hook into the st and under the ring, sc in the same st, work an additional 47 sc around the top of the tube and

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around the ring by working 1 sc in the side of each sc row and 2 sc in the side of each dc row; join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.Step 3: It's important that the top and bottom of the dowel pieces not poke through the piece, so with needle and sewing thread and working on the inside of the tube, sew the dc tightly around the top and bottom of each dowel piece.AssemblyStep 1: (Attaching the bottom to the sides) Place the bottom piece at the opposite end of the ring in the side piece; using size H hook, sl st the bottom to the sides. Fasten off.

Step 2: (Attaching the lid) With size H hook, join yarn with a sl st in any sc on round 5 of the lid, sl st in each of the next 17 sc, ch 10 tightly, sl st in each of the next 18 sc, insert hook in next sc and into any sc on the ring end of the sides and pull yarn through to complete sl st, sl st through both the lid and the side piece of each of the next 9 sc; join with a sl st in the first sl st; open lid, sl st in each of the unworked 38 sc on the side piece. Fasten off.

Step 3: Sew button on the side below the ch-10 on the lid.Step 4: Carefully wrap colored yarn around sides to simulate thread. Knot ends.

Happy Crocheting!

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Steel Crochet Hook CaseThis case is worked all in one piece and folds like a book. The hook “pockets” are crocheted into the case! The case holds 16 hooks...a complete set of sizes 00 to 14.

Materials:Worsted weight “soft” yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft)Crochet hook size F (If you crochet loose, you may need to

use a size E)3 different stitch markers (Could be 3 different colors of

yarn.)Two pieces of 5” x 5 1/2” plastic canvas (or size needed)Optional: 16” zipper (or size needed) OR “frog” button

OR 16” ribbon (see “finishing”)

Lining and Hook Pockets Ch 26.Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across; ch 1 loosely, turn. (25 sc)Row 2: Hdc in each of the first 10 sts, hdc in the back loop only of each of the next 15 sc to form the back of the hook pocket; turn clockwise; hdc in the free loops of the same 15 sc to form the front of the hook pocket; ch 1, turn; insert hook

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STEEL CROCHET HOOK CASE Designed by Priscilla Hewitt




through the first hdc of the front of the hook pocket and through the first hdc of the back of the hook pocket, complete sc; *insert hook through the next hdc of the front of the hook pocket and through the next hdc of the back of the hook pocket, complete sc;* Repeat from * to * 13 times to com-pletely close hook pocket; ch 1, turn.Row 3: Sc in each of the 15 sc, hdc in each of the 10 hdc; ch 1 loosely, turn.Rows 4-17: (Repeat rows 2 and 3) 7 times.To form the spine of the case lining:Row 18: Sc in each st across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc)Row 19: Sc in the back loop only of each sc across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc) (Place marker 1 in a front loop of this row to mark row)

Rows 20-21: Repeat rows 18 and 19. (25 sc) (Place marker 2 in a free front loop of row 21 to mark row)Rows 22-40: Repeat rows 1-19; ch 1 loosely at the end of row 40. (Place marker 3 in a front loop of row 40 to mark row.)Outside CoverRow 41: Hdc in the first sc, (sc in the next sc, dc in the next sc) 11 times, sc in the next sc, hdc in the last sc; ch 1 loosely, turn. (25 sts)

Row 42: Hdc in the first hdc, (dc in the next sc, sc in the next dc) 11 times, dc in the next sc, had in the last hdc; ch 1 loosely, turn. (25 sts)Row 43: Hdc in the first hdc, (sc in the next dc, dc in the next sc) 11 times, sc in the next dc, hdc in the last hdc; ch 1 loosely, turn. (25 sts)Rows 44-56: (Repeat rows 42 and 43) 6 times, then repeat row 42 one more time.Row 57: Sc in each st across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc) Outside Cover SpineRow 58: Fold cover toward the outside center of the case. In-sert hook in the back loop of the first dc on row 57 AND through the first free front loop of row 21 (marked with marker 2); complete sc. Continue joining the back loops of row 57 and the free front loops of row 21 with a sc across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc)Row 59: Sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc)Row 60: Insert hook in the back loop of the first sc on row 59 AND through the first free front loop of row 19 (marked with marker 1); complete sc. Continue joining the back loops of row 59 and the free front loops of row 19 with a sc across; ch 1, turn. (25 sc)

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Rows 61: Sc in each sc across; ch 1 loosely, turn. (25 sc)Rows 62-77: Repeat rows 41-56.Row 78: Fold cover so the edge of row 76 matches the begin-ning foundation chain; sc through both loops of row 76 AND the free loops of the beginning foundation chain across to join (25 sc); do not fasten off.Round 1: With outside cover facing you, sc evenly through both thicknesses of the case along the bottom to join (this will be along the bottom of the hook pockets); sc in each of the free loops of row 40 (marked with marker 3); insert plastic canvas piece in each of the “pockets” formed between the out-side cover and lining; continue joining with sc’s through both thickness along top of the case; join with a sl st to the front loop of the first sc of row 77.

Round 2: (Cover piping) Continue working a sl st in the front loop of each sc around; join with a sl st to the first sl st.Round 3: (Zipper facing) Sl st in the first free back loop in the sc’s of round 1, ch 2, hdc in the back loop of each sc around; join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 2. Fas-ten off. Weave in ends.Finishing

If desired, sew zipper to the inside of the zipper facing, having the bottom of the zipper centered at the bottom of the spine. You may also use “frog”-type buttons to close the case, or sew ribbons to the sides to form a tie closure.

Happy Crocheting!

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CHAPTER 1 - Priscilla's Crochet

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Transcript of CHAPTER 1 - Priscilla's Crochet