Caring For Your Andersen®

Gliding Windows

The complete Andersen Owner-To-Owner® limited warranty is available at: www.andersenwindows.com.

“Andersen” is a registered trademark of Andersen Corporation.All other marks where denoted are marks of Andersen Corporation.

© 2007 Andersen Corporation. All rights reserved. 9/07

Andersen® windows are designed for beauty, efficiency and convenience.

This booklet shows you how to care for your windows — how to help keep

them looking and working like new.

If you have questions about your Andersen windows that are not answered in

this booklet, please contact your Andersen dealer.

The instructions contained in this booklet are general guidelines only. For

additional service procedures, installation guidelines, product information or

support, log on to www.andersenwindows.com. You may also call Andersen

customer service toll-free at 1-888-888-7020.

Thank you for buying Andersen products.

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GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES 3

Please read the following manufacturer’s instructions for proper care

and maintenance of Andersen® products.

• If a ladder or scaffolding is needed to reach and remove the protective film from the glass, make sure ladder or scaffolding is secure and care is taken duringremoval of the film. Failure to do so may result in injury.

• Protective film may pose suffocation hazard to children. Properly dispose of filmimmediately after removal and keep out of reach of children.

• Peeling off protective film may result in a staticcharge that could cause a shock or spark.

• Static charge and spark can pass through to theOTHER SIDE of glass.

• Solvents, cleaners and foam insulation must be dryand all flammables must be properly stored beforeremoving protective film.

• Misting glass with water may reduce static charge and spark.

• For best results, protective film should be removedwithin 9 months of installation in temperatures above 32°F.

• Glass on Andersen® 200 Series windows is protected by a translucent film.

• Andersen® 400 Series products come standard with High-Performance™ Low-E4™

glass. This glass package has a low-maintenance exterior coating and removableprotective film. The low-maintenance exterior coating is highly durable but may be damaged by scratching with hard objects. DO NOT use metal razor blades toclean glass or remove paint/stain from glass surface. Scratching of the exteriorglass surface could damage the low-maintenance coating.

• DO NOT use metal razor blades to remove the protective film. Peel back protectivefilm at a corner using a fingernail or clean plastic scraper.

• DO NOT allow any sealants (including silicone) to contact the exterior glass surface.Sealants may cause damage to the exterior low-maintenance coating of the glass.

• DO NOT use abrasive cleaners on any glass surface, or on the exterior of High-Performance™ Low-E4™ glass.

• DO NOT apply any after-market films to glass. Thermal stress conditions resulting in glass damage may occur.

• Tape glass edge with painter’s tape prior to finishing or painting. Protective film is not a substitute for edge masking.

• The use of movable insulating materials such as window coverings, shutters and other shading devices may damage glass or vinyl. In addition, excessive condensation may result, causing deterioration of the window unit.

• Acid solutions used to wash masonry will damage glass, fasteners, hardware andmetal flashing. Follow the acid solution manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Protect and/or cover Andersen products during cleaning process to prevent acidcontact. If acid does come in contact with window unit, immediately wash all surfaces with clean water.

REMOVE FROM AREA:• Thinners• Cleaners• Mineral spirits• Foam insulation cans• Solvent-soaked rags

GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES(CONTINUED)

Before painting or staining Andersen® products, please familiarize yourself

with these general finishing guidelines:

DO NOT paint weatherstripping, gaskets, interlocks, jamb liners, silicone beads,

insect screens or any surface that has sliding contact with other parts.

DO NOT allow painted surfaces to come in contact with other surfaces until

thoroughly dry.

For a clean, attractive stained appearance, the use of a pre-stain or primer is

strongly recommended.

Abrasive cleaners or solutions containing corrosive solvents should not be

used on Andersen® products.

Before painting, use a fast-dry alkyd primer.

Properly prepared wood surfaces absorb finish materials more easily. Prior to

finishing wood interiors, lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper or steel

wool. Sandpaper and steel wool should not contact glass surface. Remove

dust particles with a soft, dry cloth.

• Sanding, staining, painting, varnishing and other finishing procedures should always be done in well-ventilated areas. Follow all manufacturer’s warnings,cautions and instructions. Failure to do so may result in injury or illness.

Exterior Finishing

Andersen® 400 Series gliding windows have a glass fiber reinforced composite

on their frame exteriors. The sash exterior is protected by rigid vinyl.

• Sandtone or Terratone® color exteriors may be painted any color lighter

than Terratone, using quality oil-base or latex paint.

• Submit color samples to Andersen for approval when painting exteriors that

are White, Sandtone, Terratone or any color darker than Terratone.

Below is a general overview of vinyl painting instructions. For detailed vinyl

instructions and preparations, contact your Andersen dealer. Paints and stains

may cause damage to rigid vinyl exteriors. Andersen does not warrant the

adhesion of paint to vinyl.

• Buff the frame and sash with a 3M® ScotchBrite® pad, 00 steel wool or 240-grit

sandpaper until the surface is dull. Remove dust particles with a soft, dry cloth.

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“3M” and “ScotchBrite” are registered trademarks of 3M Company.

• Clean the frame and sash by wiping them with a surface conditioner or acetone.

After the solution dries, prime the surface with a fast-dry alkyd primer in a neutral

color. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for proper use.

• When the primer is dry, apply a high-quality oil-base or water-base paint.

The exterior frames of Andersen® 200 Series gliding windows are protected

by rigid vinyl. The sash exterior is protected by a long-lasting urethane-base finish.

To apply finish to frame exterior, see previous vinyl painting instructions. Prior

to finishing the sash exterior, lightly sand the sash with fine sandpaper or steel

wool. Remove dust particles with a clean, dry cloth, and then apply a fast-dry

alkyd primer. Use a high-quality oil-base or water-base paint. Always read

and follow finishing material manufacturer’s instructions for proper use.

Interior Finishing

Andersen® 400 Series and 200 Series gliding windows have natural wood

interiors that can be painted or stained. Thoroughly read the manufacturer’s

paint or stain instructions before applying the finish. Failure to do so may

result in poor appearance or damage to your window.

• Before you paint or stain the interior wood surface, sand it with fine

sandpaper or steel wool. Remove dust particles with a soft, dry cloth.

Apply a pre-stain before staining for the best results on interior pine.

• Use a high-quality oil-base stain, oil-base paint or latex paint.

• When finishing the 200 Series window, you need to remove the sash from

the frame.

• Paint or stain the 400 Series window with the sash open, and do not close

the sash until the finish has dried thoroughly.

• Let any stain dry overnight. After the stain is dry, finish the wood with a

high-quality conventional lacquer, varnish or polyurethane.

• DO NOT expose unfinished wood to high moisture conditions, excessive heat or humidity. Discoloration, bowing and/or splitting may result. Finish interior wood surfaces immediately after installation.

• DO NOT stain or paint weatherstripping, silicone beads, vinyl, glass or hardware.

GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES(CONTINUED)

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Specialty Windows

Andersen® specialty units include Flexiframe®, custom arch, arch, Springline™, Circle Top™,

quarter round, elliptical, circle and oval windows. The maintenance and finishing

instructions contained in this guide also apply to these products.

Please read and follow all cautions and directions when painting or cleaning

both the low-maintenance exteriors and natural wood interiors.

Finishing Wood Interior Grilles

• Thoroughly read the paint or stain manufacturer’s instructions prior to applying thefinish. Failure to do so may result in poor appearance or damage to your grilles.

The exterior side of each wood interior grille is painted to match the window’s exterior.

This side should not be finished. Always finish removable grilles before installing

them on the sash. Prior to finishing the interior side, lightly sand the inside face

of the grilles with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Remove dust particles with a soft,

dry cloth. Use a high-quality oil-base stain, oil-base paint or latex paint. Apply

paint or stain in an open, well-ventilated area. All stains should dry overnight before

further finishing is attempted. After staining, the grille surfaces should be finished

with a quality conventional lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane.

GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES(CONTINUED)

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Cleaning Gliding Windows

To keep Andersen® products attractive and functioning efficiently, you should clean

them occasionally. In most regions they may require cleaning only a few times per

year. However, some coastal areas, industrial areas or agricultural areas contain high

amounts of airborne particles and may require more frequent washing of your windows.

• Use extreme care when working around window openings. Never leave a windowopening unattended when children are present. Falling from a window opening may result in injury or death.

• Use of ladders and/or scaffolding and working at elevated levels may be hazardous. Follow equipment manufacturer’s instructions for safe operation.

• Use extreme caution when working around window and door openings. Injury and/or falls could occur.

To remove dust, dirt, smoke, film, soot and salt spray, use a mild detergent and water

solution and a soft cloth or brush. To remove heavy dirt or grime from glass, first wipe

loose debris from the glass surface with a soft, dry cloth. Then apply a cleaning

solution, such as mild soapy water, vinegar or a liquid window cleaner, and wipe in

a circular motion. Remove cleaning solution with a squeegee or a clean, lint-free

cloth. As a general practice, you should never clean glass in direct sunlight. To avoid

damage to the glass, never use razor blades on glass surface.

Note: After cleaning, lubricate all moving parts with a light oil or dry silicone spray.

Lubricants or harsh abrasive cleaners are not recommended.

Cleaning Grilles and Insect Screens

To remove dust, dirt, smoke, film, soot and salt spray from grilles, use a mild detergent

and water solution and a soft cloth or brush. To remove grease, oil or industrial solids,

you may need to use stronger solutions such as Mr. Clean®, Soft Scrub® or rubbing

alcohol. Avoid contacting glass surface with any abrasive materials. Conventional

insect screens and TruScene® insect screens are best cleaned with a soft cloth

or sponge.

To clean hardware other than brass or satin nickel, use a mild soap and water

solution, then rinse and wipe dry with a soft cloth. After cleaning, lubricate moving

hardware parts with a light oil or dry silicone spray.

“Mr. Clean” is a registered trademark of the Procter & Gamble Company.

“Soft Scrub” is a registered trademark of the Clorox Company.

GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES(CONTINUED)

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GENERAL FINISHING & CLEANING GUIDELINES(CONTINUED)

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Maintaining Andersen® Hardware

Your Andersen® hardware has been manufactured of high-quality, fine metal. Fine

metal requires periodic attention to maintain its beauty and characteristics.

Climate, location, and exposure to corrosive environments such as industrial areas,

pesticides, herbicides, or salts can affect the hardware’s beauty and characteristics.

• DO NOT use or apply harsh chemicals, abrasives and/or cleaners. Product damage could occur.

• DO NOT refurbish hardware. Contact a professional hardware restorer for refurbishing.

Bright Brass, Antique Brass, Satin Nickel, DistressedNickel, White or Stone

• Wash hardware using a mild detergent and a soft cloth. Andersen bright brass

and satin nickel hardware finishes are protected with a physical vapor

deposition (PVD) coating process resulting in a beautiful finish that’s resistant

to scratching, corrosion and tarnish. Andersen satin nickel and bright brass

are covered by the same 10-year transferable limited warranty.

Polished Chrome or Brushed Chrome

• Wash hardware using a mild detergent and a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners,

pads, or brushes.

• Polish chrome finishes using a commercially available chrome polish following

manufacturer’s instructions.

Oil-Rubbed Bronze or Distressed Bronze

• Handling and frequent use create the bronze patina that is the hallmark of

the oil-rubbed bronze and distressed bronze finishes. Oil-rubbed bronze and

distressed bronze are “living finishes” with no protective coating. With use,

your hands will polish away the darker material exposing the bronze beneath.

The appearance of these finishes will vary depending on usage and

environmental conditions.

• Occasionally apply light mechanic oil to deepen the color and sheen of the

product. Cover metal parts with oil entirely, allow the oil to stand for a few

minutes, then gently rub off excess using a clean cloth.

Note: For additional hardware performance and warranty information

visit our website: www.andersenwindows.com

Removing/Installing Standard Insect Screens

To remove insect screens on Andersen® 400 Series gliding

windows, start by opening the sash. The two insect screens are

held tightly by a center cam lock (Fig. 1). Disengage the cam

lock handle to loosen the insect screens within the frame.

Carefully push one insect screen outward to clear the sill. Turn

it slightly, and bring it into the home. Repeat with the second

insect screen. To reinstall, simply reverse the procedure, making sure the cam lock is fully

engaged and the insect screens are secure in the frame.

The insect screens on Andersen® 200 Series gliding windows

feature upper rail clips that fit into a groove on the window

exterior (Fig. 2). These clips help to hold the insect screen in

place. To remove the insect screens, start by opening sash fully.

Grasp the two latch tabs on the lower rail of the insect screen

and gently push them toward the center.

Carefully push the insect screen outward at an angle, and pull

it out of the insect screen rail clip groove. Then pull the insect

screen through the window opening. To reinstall the insect

screen, simply reverse the procedure (Fig. 3), making sure the

upper rail clips are completely engaged in the screen groove.

Pull the insect screen inward and, once the insect screen is in

position, push the latches outward to secure it in place.

Note: The initial installation of the insect screen for Andersen® 200 Series gliding

windows involves some minor assembly. See the installation instructions for

more details.

Installing Andersen® 400 Series Grilles

On Andersen® 400 Series gliding windows, you must

secure the grilles yourself, using a metal starter tip and

attachment clips (Fig. 4). (These come with the grilles.)

The starter tip is a simple tool used

to make small starter holes in the

glazing bead around the interior

perimeter of the glass. The attachment clips slide into these

small holes and attach to the grilles, holding them in place.

Start by placing the grilles in position against the windows.

Use a pencil to mark the locations of the attachment clips

(Fig. 5). (Each grille end that contacts the sash should be secured by a clip.) Then,

carefully press the starter tip into the marked points to create starter holes in the

glazing bead (Fig. 6). Press the

clips into the starter holes (Fig. 7),

and snap the grille into position.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6 Fig. 7

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Installing Andersen® 200 Series Grilles

Andersen® 200 Series gliding windows feature grille

fasteners at the end of each grille member. To remove

these grilles, carefully pull the grille member away from

the sash, one vertical member at a time. The grille fasteners

pivot down to fit between the glass surface and sash lip,

securing the grille in place (Fig. 8). To install these grilles,

position them against the glass pane and apply light pressure on both ends of

a single vertical member to begin engagement of the fasteners. Continue until

all grille fasteners are engaged.

Replacing Glass Panes

In most cases, it is easier and more economical to replace the entire window sash.

If a window pane is broken, always cover the damaged area with tape for safety — and

cover the floors to avoid damage from falling glass. Consult a qualified glazier or

Andersen dealer.

Avoiding Trouble

Movable insulating materials such as window coverings, shutters and other shading

devices may cause thermal stress or excessive condensation, damaging the windows.

Andersen Corporation is not responsible for product performance when these kinds

of materials or devices are used with our products.

Preventing Condensation

Most condensation problems are the result of interior atmospheric conditions,

such as humidity. For more information, consult an Andersen dealer and ask for

a copy of the “Controlling Indoor Condensation” brochure or DVD.

Gliding Window Adjustments

If your Andersen gliding window is sticking, check to make sure channels and

moving parts are free of paint, stain, dirt or corrosive materials. Clean and lubricate

as needed. If trouble persists, consult an Andersen window professional.

Fig. 8

GENERAL INFORMATION(CONTINUED)

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Apron: Inside window trim member which is used under the stool at the bottom of the window.

Astragal: The center member of a double door, which is attached to the fixed or inactive door panel.

Casing: A flat, decorative moulding which covers the inside edge of the jambs and the rough openings between the window unit and the wall.

Cladding: A low-maintenance material that makes up the exterior or is attached to the exterior of the window or patio door unit.

Double glazing: Use of two panes of glass in a window to increase energy efficiency and provide other performance benefits.

Drip cap: A moulding placed on the top of the head brick mould or casing of a window frame to divert water.

Extension jambs: Flat wood parts that are fastened to the inside edges of the window jamb to extend it in depth and adapt to a thicker wall. The inside edge of extension jambs should be flush with the finished wall surface.

Flashing: A metal or plastic strip attached to the exterior of the head or side jambs to provide a weather barrier and to help prevent leakage between the frame and the wall.

Frame: Outer member of a window unit that encloses the sash, composed of side jambs, head jamb and sill.

Gasket: A pliable, flexible continuous strip of material used to effect a weathertightseal between sash and frame of roof windows, much like the seal around a refrigerator door.

Glazing: The glass panes or lights in the sash of a window. Also the act of installinglights of glass in a window sash.

Grille: Ornamental or simulated muntins and bars which don’t actually divide the lightsof glass. Generally made of wood on the interior side of the sash and Fibrex® materialon the exterior. Some wood interior grilles can be removed for easier cleaning.

Head: The main horizontal member forming the top of the window or door frame.

Header: A heavy beam extended across the top of the rough opening to prevent the weight of wall or roof from resting on the window frame.

Insect screen: Lightweight aluminum frame with screen mesh applied. Designed to keep insects out when window is open. Insect screens will not stop a child from falling out of the window. Keep children away from open windows.

Interlock: Part of the weatherstrip system. Two separate pieces of material attachedto a gliding window or gliding patio door that meet and lock within each other tocreate a weathertight seal when the window or door is closed.

Jack studs: Framing members, generally 2 x 4’s or 2 x 6’s, which form the inside of the window or door rough opening. They run from the sole plate to the header,which is supported by them.

Jambs: The main vertical members forming the sides of a window or door frame.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS 11

Keeper: The protruding, hook-shaped part of a casement or awning window lock,which is mounted on the sash.

Mortise: A recess or slot cut into a board that receives the projecting portion(tenon) of another member in order to form a joint.

Muntin: A short bar, used to separate glass in a sash into multiple lights.Also called a windowpane divider or a grille.

Pivot: A mode of operation for venting windows which generally means the sash pivots on a central axis and turns 90 degrees or more.

Protective film: Low-density plastic film that is applied to the interior and exterior glass surfaces. This film protects units during manufacturing, delivery and construction.

Sash: The framework holding the glass in a window unit.Composed of stiles (sides) and rails (top and bottom).

Shoe: A piece of venting window hardware that connects the sash to the operator arm.

Silicone bead: A small strip of sealant that is applied to the full perimeter of the exterior of the glass surface where the sash/panel meets the glass. It adds protection and creates a finished look.

Sill: The horizontal member that forms the bottom of a window frame.

Tempered glass: Glass manufactured to withstand greater than normal forces on its heat-treated surface. When it breaks, it shatters into small pieces to reduce hazard.

Tenon: A rectangular projection cut out of a piece of wood for insertioninto a mortise.

Transom: A smaller window above a door or another window. A transom joint is also the horizontal joining area between two window units that are stacked one on top of the other.

Vapor barrier: A watertight material used to prevent the passage of moisture into or through structural elements (floors, walls, ceilings).

Venting unit: A window or door unit that opens or operates.

Weatherstripping: Metal, plastic, foam or felt strips designed to create a sealbetween a window sash and frame or stops to prevent weather infiltration.

Wing blade fastener: A small metal device that secures an insect screen or combination screen/storm panel into the window frame. Usually located on thesides of the insect screen or panel frame.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS(CONTINUED)

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