CAPSULE ARTIST: SANTTU MUSTONEN · manage wholesale accounts Lives Clapton, East London . Says her...
Transcript of CAPSULE ARTIST: SANTTU MUSTONEN · manage wholesale accounts Lives Clapton, East London . Says her...
No5
—February 2013
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CAPS
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ARTI
ST:
SANT
TU M
USTO
NEN LAS VEGAS
FEB 19—20
NY WOMEN'SFEB 22—24
PARIS WOMEN'SMARCH 1—3
sant
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com
NEXT UP…
Perks and Mini or P.A.M burst on the scene in the early 2000s when Aussie artist and husband and wife team launched a graph-ics-based collection of tees and lifestyle products. The brand’s popularity continued to grow through many successful product launches and collaborations with some of the music, design and art world’s most respect-ed creators. The brand is making a comeback this season, after a four year hiatus in the US and will debuting a new collection at Capsule Las Vegas.
Annie Georgia Greenberg @theaggNew York Editor of Refinery29.com Lives 10003, NY, NYSays her personal style is Clarissa Explains It All meets Mercer St.Vacations in Rio.Reading Tsim Tsum by Sabrina Orah MarkRoom service at The Charlotte St Hotel, LondonSoundtrack At work I like to write to more instrumental music like Flying Lotus and Ali Farka Toure but 5 to 9, it's any man's guess.Style icon Cher HorowitzWatering hole The beach.Favorite designer Peter Pilotto, Prabal Gurung, Acne, Suno
Antonia O’Malley @malls78Buyer for Topshop’ s Designer Collaborations, Boutique, Unique and manage wholesale accounts
Lives Clapton, East London Says her personal style is A happy accident
Vacations in Colombia where I recently travelled about and was blown away…Reading Love in the Time of Cholera
Room service at Janane Tamsna in MarrakechStyle icon Chloe Sevigny
Watering hole the Wren in New York and my local in Ireland, O'Connors Favorite designer Christopher Kane
Julia Carvalho @jujucarvalho22Sales manager for Taschen books Lives West Village, NYCSays her personal style is “Jorts Enthusiast” in the summer, “Pigeon Lady from Home Alone 2” in the winter.Vacations in Buzios, Rio de Janeiro Reading Taschen’s Pucci art edition and The Curse of Lono by Hunter S. ThompsonRoom service at Magic Castle in LAStyle icon Ryan LochteWatering hole Anywhere in Gainesville, FL
Caroline Gautier @ladygautierManaging Director, Surgery CommunicationsLives Kensal Green, LondonSays her personal style is Classic, with occasional minimal glamour!Vacations in IbizaReading The Great GatsbyRoom service at Gran Hotel Minerva FlorenceStyle icon Jane BirkinWatering hole Groucho Club, LondonFavorite designer Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, and VB these days
Maia Wojcik @iammaiaDesign Talent Scout/RecruiterLives Greenpoint, BrooklynSays her personal style is "refined comfortwear" Vacations in CopenhagenReading The Odyssey by Homer, Just Kidsby Patti SmithRoom service at La Maison Champs-Elysees (deco by Martin Margiela)Style icon Mary-Kate and AshleyWatering hole Nights & Weekends, Brooklyn Favorite designer my friends Danielle Ribner of Loup, and Yara Flinn of Nomia, and Phoebe Philo
Leslie David @lesliiiiart director/graphic designerLives ParisVacations in Flores, IndonesiaReading Middlesex by Jeffrey EugenidesRoom service at Waecicu, in Flores,IndonesiaStyle icon no need!Watering hole La Candelaria, Paris Favorite designer Stella McCartney
Hiroko Yoshimoto IllustratorLives Nishinomiya, Hyogo, JapanShops bookstores in various citiesReading The Door into SummerRoom service at Maison Borella, MilanStyle Icon Alison Statton(Young Marble Giants)
Deidre A. Dyer @lesnobetteWriter and Style Assistant atThe Fader MagazineLives BROOKLYN! Says her personal style is Mature tomboy meets a brown Charlie's AngelsVacations in Paris, France Reading On Beauty by Zadie SmithRoom service at Mama Shelter in ParisStyle icons Diane Keaton in Annie Hall and Diana Ross in MahoganyWatering hole Botanica on Houston St, NY Favorite designer Miuccia Prada
Caterina Coccioli @cactusbonestothunderstormFashion designer and curator of cactusbonestothunderstorm.comLives Milan Says her personal style is Milanese radical with a hint of nostalgic rebellion. Vacations in Costa Paradiso in Sardegna:a hermit's retreat Reading Rumble Fish Room service at Fujiya Gohonjin in Nagano.Style Icon Matt Dillon Favorite collections Marni S/S 2008 for Womenswear and Gucci A/W 2012-13 for menswear are good examples of perfection.—(c)
Jessica Hemenway @texasjessSales at BPMW/Retailer Relations at Capsule Lives Brooklyn Says her personal style is Comfortable tomboyVacations in TexasReading Half Broke Horses byJeannette WallsRoom service at The Driskill, Austin TXSoundtrack Deep cutsStyle Icon Hanneli MustapartaDrinks at Extra Fancy, Brooklyn
Rachael Wang @_rwangMarket Director, NylonLives Greenpoint, BrooklynSays her personal style is UnpredictableReading Janet Malcolm's The Silent Woman Room service at Hotel Nilaya, GoaStyle icon Amelia EarhartWatering hole The Richardson, BrooklynFavorite designer This changes constantly, but Miuccia Prada is a genius
Rachael Proud Design director, Christopher Kane Lives Hackney, LondonSays her personal style is Menwear with heels, womenswear with brogues.Vacations in The Maldives Room service at British pubs with rooms—the Drunken Duck in Cumbria—perfect.Style icon her granddad—chic Northern gentWatering hole Dean St Townhouse, LondonFavorite designer CHRISTOPHER KANE !!!! (and Raf Simons’ own menswear label)
Sommer X. Santoro @badhairbetty; @blackgoldbrooklynOwner, Black Gold Brooklyn, selling coffee, antiques and vintage recordsLives in Carroll Gardens, BrooklynSays her personal style is Nostalgic for all decades, with a twist. Vacations in South France and Keyport, NJ (to visit my twin nieces!)Reading any book with 1920's textile prints in full colorRoom service at Hotel Rivington, NYCMusic taste RAWK N' FUCKIN' ROLL! Favoritealbum is “Here's Little Richard” by Little RichardStyle icon Siouxsie SiouxFavorite designers Classic Christian Dior and John Galliano
#in
goodcompany
Arrrgh! presents a selection from fifty-eight contemporary creators who, inspired by design, animation and sketches, use monster form and expression in their costume and clothing designs. Featured designers include Issey Miyake, Martin Margiela and Capsule’s own Rejina Pyo. Stop by the exhibition while you’re in Paris. Gaite Lyrique, 3 bis rue Papin 75003 Paris From 13 February to 7 April 2013
Aesop’s amazing natural body products are reason enough to buy, but the brand works with some of the world’s most innovative “starchitects” to create their stores interiors, and that just adds to the fun. Newest on the scene are Jeremy Barbour’s concept in No-lita, Manhattan where walls are book bound with old issues of the New York Times. In Paris, Aesop’s new store on rue de Tiquetonne was created by French design firm Ciguë and fea-tures walls lined with hundreds of glass bot-tles resting on rows of hand-made iron nails.
Arrrgh! Monsters in
Fashion
Artists Gabriel Cohen and Jolie Signorile, rose to fame in 2009 with a wondrous col-lection of archery arrows fashioned from wooden dowels, German silk thread, and naturally molted feathers sourced from bird sanctuaries and peacock farms. Since then, the two have forged an on-going collection which includes cat toys, card games and boc-ce ball sets, all hand-crafted and intricately detailed in their Brooklyn studio. Take a little something home from Capsule New York Women’s where the brand will set up shop as part of the Donut Shop.
The Finnish model Kirsi Pirhonen has been shot for the pages of British Vogue, featured in i-D magazine, has been the face of Celine and has walked the runway of Christopher Kane and Marni. Now Pirhonen stars in Samu-ji’s AW13 campaign, which was shot in archi-tect Alvar Aalto's home by the Stockholm- based photographer Johnny Kangasniemi. Aesop Rocks
The duo behind Confetti System, Julie Ho and Nicholas Andersen craft whimsically chic displays out of simple materials like tissue paper, mylar and glitter. Their installations, sculptures and creations that flutter and glim-mer have caught the eye of major fashion houses and museums alike—an unusual ap-proach to decoration that has graced shops like Opening Ceremony, Lanvin and Bergdorf Goodman. We’re excited to welcome them to Capsule where you can see their work in action as part of the Elements of Retail instal-lation at New York Women’s.
Serious Artist
Collabs The words of American literary icon Susan Sonntag have long inspired the creative community and now designer William Anze-vino has secured the licensing rights to the he writing, as well as the early “beefcake” photographs of Bob Mizer. The results of these mash ups, Anzevino + Susan Sontag and Anzevino + Bob Mizer will make their debuts at Capsule.
Finnish First
Capsule♥'s
Confetti System
P.A.M. BamThank You
Ma’am
Illustrations by Hiroko Yoshimoto
Pieces, looks, and moodsfor A\W 13
ARTISAN INSPIRED The anti-fashion girl loves sexy, for-the-boys classics and right now gravitates toward artisanal touches like real in-digo dyed fabrics, utilitarian-inspired silhouettes, the basic white shirt and new iterations of the denim jacket.
SLOUCHY BOTTOMS Whether it's the sweat-
pants worn with heels look we've come to love
or menswear-inspired bottoms with a slightly
dropped crotch, soft, drapey trousers continue to be the key bottom for direc-
tional women this season.
3D Three dimensional knits give a whole new meaning to surface interest. Textured stitch work,
appliques, patches, fringe, braid, pom poms and other elements
that pop the surface of garments look and feel totally modern.
MORE MORE MORELady peacocks want luxe for AW13. A sophisticated mash up of piled on layers - think hand knitted cashmere, textured leather, deca-dent fur and luscious tweed - over printed or hammered silk gets the point across.
MUD HONEY Clubwear of yesteryear is a major influence as oversized sweaters
and dropped shoulders meet lace babydoll or stretch velvet body
conscious dresses. Strategic cut-outs, allover print leggings and
platforms round out the look.
For years ladies have been co-opting the men's pieces designed by Micah Cohen, who made a name for himself by offering great style for men at a contemporary price point. Now the designer turns his attention to the ladies, with a new collection of sportswear just for them. Expect feminine riffs of some of SoG’s classic items: as well as flirty sporty, girlie looks. Debuting with a NY Fashion Week presentation and showing exclusively at Capsule.
Fredericks& Mae
WomenLove Shades
of Grey
In God We Trustingodwetrustnyc.com
LN
EW
WH
OS'
OO
K
Erro—erronewyork.com
Gabriela Artigas—gabrielaartigas.com
House of Dagmar—houseofdagmar.se
Patouf—patouf.se
Frame Denim—frame-denim.com
Laveer—shoplaveer.com
Mads Norgaard—madsnorgaard.com
MF jewelry—meghanfarrell.com
The Wild Unknown—thewildunknown.com
Nanushka—nanushka.hu
Whit—whit-ny.com
Shades of Grey—shadesofgreyclothing.comFortnight Lingeriefortnightlingerie.com
INSPIREDWho doesn’t love an inspiration board? We asked a few of designers from the Capsule com-munity of brands to submit photos from and thoughts on their latest…
Adesso
“Inspired by my travels along the coastline of Big Sur, California.”
—designer Samantha Goldstone
Cariló
“Taking cues from vintage travel memorabilia Cariló
celebrates a lost era of glamorous travel.”
Stylein
“A celebration of strong personalities who create
their own reality.”
Odette NY
“We’ve been really inspired this season by mandalas, Ojos de Dios, celestial cartography, protective amulets and draw-
ings by Emma Kunz.”
Macha
“Laid back rockers with an eye on the
dark side...”
Collina Strada
“I was inspired to create patterns out of scenic and industrial visuals, making it all very geometric in an
organic sense.”
Devon Pavlovitz
“I’m exploring new propor-tions, textures, color combi-nations and a mix of minimal
plus excess”
Kara
“'9 to 5 Hawai'i'—sitting at your desk, dreaming of paradise.”
Margarita Saplala
“The nonchalantattitude of 1950s
French New Wave cinema.”
Talon
“Medieval imagery and customs as well as the
science of alchemy.”
Miista
“The pale winter is upon us: trans-lucent skin, drying flower petals,
the soft light of magic hour, the inevitable darkness.”
Kiel Mead
“Seeing objects in different color ways gives them their
own unique personality."
BPMW80 8th Ave/Ste 202New York, NY 10011
Awesome BuyersBuying Awesome Things Like…
“Leather will still be a huge trend for us. We've sold it very well for the past three seasons and consider it a trend that is here to stay. Fur is another staple for A/W and we can't wait to see all the newness in that category. Bold prints are going to be huge for A/W13. Military inspired everything, from slim cargo pants to oversized cargo vests, we are buying 'em!"
—Lauren Yerkes, April Koza, and Candace Lee, revolveclothing.com
“I love sets so hopefully we'll see trousers, blazers and blouses in nice prints and woven fabrics. Also more silky wide trousers with loose blazers, cropped suit pants with chunky knits, mini skirts with bomber jackets and overalls in both denim, corduroy and leather, slim and baggy.”
—Annika Hansson, Pede & Stoffer, Copenhagen
“We feel that mixing different colors and materials in single items is the next step for womenswear. Color wise we’ll be looking at Autumnal Gold, Forest Green, Neo-teal, Various winter pastels in knitwear, shades of hyper real colors, almost grey shades of blue; New uses of Neo Indigo; pink, maroon and aubergine. Key items will include capes, drapes, duo tone/fabric dresses. New uses of knitwear.”
— Ido, 290 Square Meters, Amsterdam
“Layering is essential in San Francisco, especially in the autumn/winter. Knitwear will continue to be a big key item. Outerwear as well… Overall, we have noticed that clothing that feels good; clothing made of high quality fibers and flattering silhouettes are in great demand. We’ll be looking for printed long skirts and dresses, pleated long skirts (to the floor), chunky sweater turtlenecks and cardigans, neutrals, shetland wools and tweeds."
—Todd Barket & Michele Janezic, Mill Mercantile, San Francisco
What’s Your Shop Profile? A sassy and Sassy-esque cheatsheet to finding the labels that work for you. By Rand Niederhoffer
1. When it comes to runway, your fashion love affair is with… a) Elevated everyday looks from Rag & Bone, Thakoon & Philip Lim b) Feminine styles from Isabel Marant, Nina Ricci and Carven c) Thinking woman styles from designers like Marni or Celine d) Emerging talent like Alexander Wang, Rodarte and Proenza e) Extreme styles from Rick Owens and Commes des Garcons 2. What magazines are sitting in your shop’s dressing room area? a) The big girls: Vogue, Elle, W b) Girlie titles like Lula, Lucky Peach and Lonny c) Monocle issues 1–24; The Gentlewoman d) No magazines. Just terrariums. e) Culture/fashion hybrids like Cabinet, Kin Folk, and V 3. You’re asked to sum up your style mantra. Your response: “Fashion should… a) be noticed!” b) be beautiful.” c) be effortless and sexy at the same time.” d) Roll your eyes at being asked to sum up your style mantra. e) be fun!” 4. Your shop mood board prominently features what trend for A\W13? a) Nothing but ‘60s mod à la Marc Jacobs. b) ‘90s-style baby doll dresses in floral crushed velvet, and tear sheets from couture collections. c) Nico in white denim; Charlotte Gainsbourg in anything; Annie Hall. d) Jessa from HBO’s Girls; quirky and mismatched irony e) Origami style cocoon tops, extreme menswear for women
QUIZ TIME!
Mostly A's: FASHION MAVENLook for fashion forward trends from: Bing Bang, Timo Weiland, Wren, Jonathan Simkhai
Mostly B's: FEMINISTE
Look for girlie pieces from Mociun, Heidi Merrick, Porter Grey, Kenny
Mostly C's: BORROWED FROM THE BOYSLook for menswear inspired pieces from, Billy Reid, Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen, Gitman Sisters, Mark McNairy
Mostly D's: INDIE GAL
Look for directional pieces with indie cred from brands like Samantha Pleet,Stine Goya, Sessun, WHIT
Mostly E's: AVANT GARDIANLook for forward styles from Reality Studio, Daniel Palillo, R/H, Altewai Saome