Canadian Jeweller January / February 2011 Issue

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011

Dino and Massimo Giannetti of 18Karat Goldsmiths in TorontoDino and Massimo Giannetti of Dino and Massimo Giannetti of 18Karat Goldsmiths in Toronto

the Benchthe Benchthe BenchDedicated to

The HST UpdateSo far, so good

Branding:It’s more than just the box

Diamonds, Diamonds Everywhere!

From contemporary design to colourful creations, diamonds

reign supreme

Blue RibbonsAGTA Spectrum Award Winners

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011

f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y

Scan Me!

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Canada’s leading ring andjewellery manufacturer

Siffari Jewellery Company Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2Tel: (416) 441-1010 1-800-387-0111 Fax: (416) 441-6188

www.siffari.com email: [email protected]

We’re celebrating our seventieth successful year.

And it’s all because of you.

You have recognized the quality Siffari has built into each of our products.

And you’ve rewarded us with success.

The Siffari family thanks you, our valued customers,

as we continue our tradition of quality, integrity and dedication.

1941 2011

Siffary Ad layout 11/30/10 4:35 PM Page 1

For Details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 80

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

You’re there for your customers, and at every point along the way, Stuller is

there for you. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the latest

styles, as well as unique selling tools like our comprehensive prototype

merchandising solutions and wedding band engraving. For a wealth of ideas and

solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

s tul ler.com 800-877-7777

MOUNTI NGS DI AMONDS GE MSTONES F I NDI NGS M E TALS TOOLS PACKAGI NGF I N I S H E DB R I DA L

Behind every “Yes,” there’s a great jeweller.


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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op Advertising


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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 12/15/10 11:14:23 AM

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The F L A N D E R S

Canadian DiamondCollection

736 Granville Street, Suite 400, Vancouver, BC, V6Z 1G3 - Toll Free: 1.800.663.0177 - Local phone 1-604-684-1131email : [email protected] - Website : www.geengee.com

It’s all in the Magic...

Exclusive distribution for Canada

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8 CJ J a n u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Check our Website forMonthly Specials!

Phone

Email: [email protected]

1.800.663.6472Fax 1.800.316.2999

www.karatimports.com

EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol besler Consulting Editor Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] Elena Viltovskaia Designer | [email protected]

stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | [email protected]

Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

Karolann Cassman

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126


publicAtioN pArtNers

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pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


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Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

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Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson, bonnie siegler.

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AM

metalsmiths925.comtoll-free 1-877-425-4299 • [email protected]

CBG Dallas Winter show January 25-27, 2011 The Atlanta SJTA show March 5-7 2011

TM

SILVERMARK MANUFACTURER

SILVERMARK MANUFACTURER

now partnering with fi ne jewelry stores across Canada

OPPORTUNITY FOR SALES PROFESSIONALS

Metalsmiths Sterling is looking for experienced sales representatives with established territories and customer base. A second non-confl ict line is acceptable. Email your resume to [email protected]

Western Central and Eastern Canada

now partnering with fi ne jewelry stores fi ne jewelry stores

metalsmiths925.com

9.25 ctw blue topaz earrings with sapphire

accents $385

14.48 ct blue topazpendant with sapphire

accents $465

14.48 ct blue topaz ring with sapphire accents $465


CJ.Jan11_Metalsmiths.indd 1 12/15/10 11:37:54 AM

10 CJ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

table of

Contents

38 Dedicated to the Bench Custom design and collaboration with fellow artists

and local celebrities keeps 18Karat Goldsmiths relevant and original.

44 Diamond Winners Quality diamonds in both medium- and high-end

merchandise are the key to healthy diamond sales say Canadian jewellers.

48 Canadian Diamond Directory

50 Fancy This Experts predict a bright future for sales of natural

coloured diamond jewellery.

62 Blue Ribbons Winners of the 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards.

66 Finance The HST Update.

January/February

Features

50

44

Contents

Custom design and collaboration with fellow artists and local celebrities keeps 18Karat Goldsmiths

Quality diamonds in both medium- and high-end merchandise are the key to healthy diamond sales

50

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J E W E L L E R T O D AY. S U P E R H E R O T O M O R R O W .

E X C L U S I V E L YE N D O R S E D B Y

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just mightsave the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,

visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.

800-558-6411 • [email protected]

*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.

P E R S O N A L J E W E L R Y I N S U R A N C E

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table of

ContentsJanuary/February

Departments14 Letter from the Guest Editor

16 Product Showcase

22 Star Watch

24 Who’s News

26 For The Record

30 Mining Feature Ontario’s history as a gold- and silver-mining giant.

34 Bench Feature The process of picklling.

54 Company Profile Midas Jewelry.

58 Designer Profile Puja Bordia from Tresor.

68 JVC Feature

70 Face Value

72 Industry Buzz John de Jong’s 15th Anniversary.

74 Showcase

74 Marketplace

80 Fax Back

82 Last Word

12 CJ J A n u A r y / F e B r u A r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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A. B. C. D.

www.crownring.com

by

A. B. C. D. E.

Alternative Metals Innovation

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 80.

CJ_CrownRing.indd 1 12/15/10 11:41:11 AM


letterfromeditorial

Jewellers were among the � rst merchants to inhabit the Main streets of Canada – before electronics stores, before travel companies, before bookstores, there was always a jeweller who could supply his local clientele with wedding rings and Christmas gi� s. Not surprisingly, many of Canada’s jewellery stores were founded by immigrants, or the sons and daughters of immigrants, who brought the talent and cra� smanship they learned in the old country to the new world, where they established a new tradition according to old-world standards. In doing so, they set the foundation for the jewellery industry here.

� e Giannettis of 18Karat Goldsmiths are one such family. Proprietors Massimo and Dino Giannetti, on the cover of this issue, are the sons of Italian immigrants Tullio and his wife Elisabetta, who brought their passion for jewellery making to Canada and instilled it in their sons, with whom they built their business from humble beginnings in their basement workshop. Today, 18Karat is an artisanal jewellery business whose owners not only take pride in the cra� smanship and the traditions of the bench, but pass that knowledge on to each client who walks into their store. In doing so, they perform a service for every jewellery store in this country, by educating clients and instilling an appreciation for the art, rather than the business of jewellery.

Editor-in-ChiefCanadian Jeweller

In Praise of Tradition

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EXPERTISE THAT SPREADS CONFIDENCE.AROUND THE WORLD AND AROUND THE CLOCK.

All across the planet, GIA labs and gemological reports are creating a common language for accurate, unbiased gemstone evaluation. From convenient locations in major gem centers, to frontline detection of emerging treatments and synthetics,to online services that include ordering, tracking, and report previews — GIA is pioneering the technology, tools and talent

that not only ensure expert service, but also advance the public trust in gems and jewelry worldwide.

W W W. G I A . E D U

NEW YORK 10:00 AMGIA Master Color Comparison Diamondsconfi rm color quality of a fancy yellow.

CARLSBAD 7 : 0 0 A MLaboratory technicians calibratemeasurement devices beforethe day’s production begins.

MUMBAI 7 : 3 0 P MStaff gemologist submits new fi ndings oncoated diamonds to GIA global database.

HONG KONG 10 : 0 0 P MWholesaler views grading results and requestsadditional services online at My Laboratory.

BANGKOK 9:00 P MGemologist confers with Carlsbad lababout ruby country of origin.

ISRAEL 5 : 0 0 P MCutter checks parameters online withGIA Facetware® Cut Estimator.

CARLSBAD NEW YORK LONDON ANTWERP FLORENCE GABORONE JOHANNESBURG

DUBAI MOSCOW MUMBAI BANGKOK HONG KONG TAIPEI SEOUL OSAKA TOKYO

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productshowcase

Metalsmiths Sterling™With its intricately detailed scroll work, this Metalsmiths Sterling™ Panos Konidas™ cuff bangle invokes the timeless elegance and beauty of the Venetian villa that inspired its design. Featured in our September Elle ad, it caught the eye of a Fox studio stylist and will soon be seen gracing the arm of leading lady Kelli Williams on the hit show Lie to Me. $585. For more information, write 130 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

GIA Reports and Grading SystemsGIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading – colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write 131 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

Nova DiamondsNova takes its diamond flower rings to another level by adding a vibrant blue accent to add a touch of colour to the 18 karat white gold setting, studded with 4.60 carats of precision cut high-clarity, high-colour diamonds. Call Nova Diamonds to inquire about their full line of diamonds and enamel flower rings. (416) 868-6682. For more information, write 132 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

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productshowcase

PH Design149 Church Street | 2nd Floor. Breathtaking cocktail rings of Amethyst, Pink Tourmaline and Lemon Quartzare are guaranteed to dazzle! The perfect combination of feminine charm and easy elegance for any well-heeled fashionista. From $1,875. For more information, please schedule an appointment or visit us online at www.phdesign.ca. For more information, write 135 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

New Bridal Styles from StullerWe now offer a vast selection of bridal jewelry in all the latest styles, as well as unique selling tools such as comprehensive prototype merchandising solutions and wedding band engraving services. “Wow” is the word that we hope comes to mind after viewing our newest bridal settings. We’re excited about the new line and hope that you and, of course, your customers will be too. To see the full collection, visit stuller.com. For more information, write 133 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

Breanna Collection:Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection, Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found the love of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the perfect ring in a crowded market place where everyone claims to have the perfect ring for you. That is why we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection where every model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna and join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this magnificent collection. For more information, write 134 on the Free Info Card on page 80.


12 08 2009 1249 100% V1 barbi braude digital production

FILE NAME ONEIL_FP_CanJwlr_Sept DESCRIPTION

CLIENT ONEIL DIAMONDS COLOURS C M Y K PMS 000

PMS 000 PMS 000 PMS 000CONTACT Shy Brameli – 604 786 6484TRIM 9" x 10.875" PIC INFO FINAL

BLEED 0.25” SEPS RUN YesLIVE 0.5" all round from trim OUTPUT

FOLDED " x " PAGE PB FONTS Conver ted to outline

BARBI BRAUDE | 604 319 0313

www.caratsmart.ca

#622-736 Granville St.Vancouver, B.C.V6Z 1G3

Phone: 604-909-0818Fax: 604-909-0272T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455)

Diamonds are not shown to scale

O’Neill Diamonds Inc.


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productshowcase

PandoraPANDORA jewellery inspires women to embrace and express their individuality and celebrate life’s unforgettable moments. PANDORA’s collections include customizable charm bracelets, rings, earrings, necklaces, and watches made from sterling silver and 14K and 18K gold with hand-set precious gemstones. To view the PANDORA collection, build a bracelet online or locate a jeweller, please visit PANDORA.net. For more information, write 136 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

Image Fifth AvenueA beautiful set in 18k white gold, enhancing the beauty of the rubellites. � e total weight of the diamonds is 7.90ct ,and the 4 rubellites have a total weight of 20.88ct. For more information, write 137 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

IN PURSUIT OF THE ULTIMATE ACCURACY IN TIMEKEEPING, BULOVA INTRODUCES PRECISIONIST.Bulova introduces Precisionist, the world’s most accurate watch with a continuous sweeping second hand. With the launch of Precisionist, Bulova blends technology, design and style; utilizing the sweeping second hand as a visual symbol for the movement’s extraordinary precision. � e technology is accurate to 10 seconds per year as compared to most other quartz watches, which are accurate to � � een seconds per month. For more information, please contact: Mr. Steve Taylor, President, Bulova Watch Company Limited 416-751-7151. For more information, write 138 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas JewelryWe now o� er engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast selection of wedding rings. � is collection of bridal sets will please even the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively designed to � t the personality, style and taste of future brides. To see the full collection and our wedding bands, visit midasjewelryinc.ca. For more information, write 139 on the Free Info Card on page 80.



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Note: All prices in $US amounts unless otherwise stated.22 CJ J a n u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

New You! The red carpet sets the tone for 2011.

By Bonnie Siegler

A Fendi a boutique opening hosted by Chloe Sevigny in conjunction with LACMA at the Fendi Beverly Center Boutique drew some of Hollywood’s most stylish celebs. Kelly Osbourne showed up wearing an Amrapali Victorian rose-cut diamond collar necklace ($22,690) and an Amrapali white Bakelite diamond ring ($3,330).

Eva Mendes attended the Environmental Media Awards at Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank making a striking fashion statement by stacking several Vahan 14k gold and sterling-silver bangles adorned with diamonds ($4,500-$7,000).

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starwatch

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J a n u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 CJ 23

Diane Lane arrived in Neil Lane jewels at the 2nd Annual Power of Women Luncheon in Hollywood, choosing the jeweller’s black and white diamond and platinum earrings with 25 carats of diamonds ($40,000).

Emmanuelle Chriqui chose to wear Bavna 18k gold and silver pear earrings with diamonds ($9,750) to the Call of Duty Launch Party held at the Barkar Hangar at the Santa Monica Airport.

Katy Perry has been having a few busy months. Besides her India wedding, she attended the MTV European Music Awards in Madrid wearing Baccarat “rock” stud earrings in ruby ($375) and several Le Vian 18k white gold bracelets with 15 chocolate diamond balls ($12,097 each) Backstage, Perry did a quick wardrobe change for her performance, accessorizing her peacock dress with Tresor Dazzle earrings in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and diamonds ($1,900) and a Baccarat Psychedelic 18k large yellow gold ring in yellow scarabee (?) ($3,400). Moving to London this month to promote her new fragrance, Perry wore an M.C.L. by Matthew Campbell Laurenza ornate multi-stone textured curved bangle ($1,410).

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24 CJ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m24

Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.

who’snews

Remembering Mervyn “Bing” LevinterBing Levinter passed away recently a� er a long and valiant struggle with ailments that had been his nemesis over the last few years. He was a patient at Sunnybrook hospital in Toronto for the past � ve years. Bing is survived by his beloved wife Vickie, and his son Robert and daughter Marcie. Levinter was part of the industry for the better part of his life, having been involved in manufacturing of silver and silver-plated halloware with Lipman & Silver Company, where he eventually took over the running of the company when his father-in-law, Harry Lipman, passed away. Bing was a staunch supporter of the industry and was involved deeply with the Canadian Jewellers Association. Bing was very proud of the fact that he was awarded the President’s Award by the CJA for his years of support. Bing was a very keen member of the Canadian Jewellers 24Karat Club and served as its president for the 1981-82 term. Even while a patient at Sunnybrook, he managed to attend a number of the Club’s events, and maintained his interest in this for as long as he could. His passing will leave a very large gap in both the CJA and 24Karat Club. Mr. Levinter was a very proud veteran of the Canadian forces in the Second World War. Canadian Jeweller magazine, his colleagues and the industry extend their deepest sympathies to his wife Vickie and his children Robert and Marcie. - Ken Forbes

Entrepreneur’s iPod Watch Idea Given Life Through Internet Designer Scott Wilson is launching his latest product design, a set of multi-touch watch kits that double as an iPod, in an unprecedented way via an online funding platform known as Kickstarter.com. Kickstarter is a new way to � nance creative ideas through the Internet; it taps into a large network of “normal” people to collectively fund a product or idea. Kickstarter is powered by a unique all-or-nothing funding method where projects must be fully funded or no money changes hands. � e end goal, set by Wilson, was to raise $15,000 USD in 30 days. At the time of print, with three weeks le� , and more than $385,000 USD pledged in just one week, Wilson’s watch models have taken the top spot as the highest funded project in Kickstarter history. � e amount of support and funds raised in such a short period of time could signal a major paradigm shi� in the way creative entrepreneurs will look to fund projects in the future or a resource independent retailers who have a brilliant idea, but little capital. “� e response we have gotten from people pledging to this [idea] has been a truly empowering discovery,” said Wilson. “We are blown away by the support. � is type of funding platform is a game-changer and just the beginning in shi� ing more power back to the individual creative entrepreneur.” Currently, the TikTok model will consist of a silicone strap into which the nano snaps and the second model, the LunaTik, is a wristwatch made of silicone straps with an aluminum base to hold the nano. � ere are limited prototypes of the watch kits being produced. Until funding o� cially closes, Wilson is taking input from users who have funded the idea to improve performance possibilities of the watch.

Raymond Bloch Certifi ed by the RJC� e Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that the French diamond wholesaler Raymond Bloch is the � rst diamond supplier in the Council’s membership to be certi� ed against the ethical,

human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s Certi� cation System. � e RJC Member Certi� cation System is diligent for the quality and breadth of its scope and standards as well as the integrity and transparency of its developmental process. “� e RJC is delighted to congratulate Raymond Bloch on becoming its � rst certi� ed diamond supplier. Many RJC Members have commenced the process towards certi� cation and we look forward to announcing their achievements in 2011 and beyond,” says Michael Rae, RJC’s CEO. A family owned business for 100 years, the diamond company is an important stakeholder in the world diamond wholesale marketplace with trusted, long term relationships with the world’s leading jewellery and watch brands as well as manufacturers. “Being in the industry for four generations, our family has always been concerned with ethical, social and environmental improvements,” say CEO team Stephanie and Laurent Bloch. “It was immediately obvious to us that the RJC would not only carry our values but also quickly become a new global standard throughout the entire supply chain.”[CJ]

024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 12/16/10 11:53:14 AM

INTRODUCING BULOVA PRECISIONISTTHE WORLD’S MOST ACCURATE WATCH

WITH A CONTINUOUSLY SWEEPING SECOND HAND

CHAMPLAINCOLLECTION

Most quartz watches are accurate to 15 seconds a month -Bulova Precisionist is accurate to 10 seconds a year.

The key is Precisionist’s unique three-prong quartz crystal,which produces a vibration frequency of 262.144 kilohertz (kHz),eight times greater than the usual two-prong crystal and thehighest of any watch available today. And, the innovative designof the Precisionist movement reduces the effects of temperaturevariation without using a high maintenance thermo-regulatingintegrated circuit.

The result is a watch that is extraordinarily precise, yet so easy to operate.

www.bulova.comFor details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ.Jan11_Bulova.indd 1 12/15/10 12:36:27 PM


news | trends | events6-Month Complimentary Membership to The Jewelers Board of TradeThe Canadian Jewellers Association has introduced a new member benefit program to The Jewelers Board of Trade (JBT). JBT is the only credit reporting service dedicated specifically to the jewellery industry in the U.S. and Canada. A not-for-profit member-supported organization, JBT has provided vital credit information and collections support to its members for over 125 years. This complimentary package to an introductory JBT membership will allow CJA members to participate in JBT’s premium interchange information-sharing platform. Participation will enable your company to

experience the benefits it brings in the form of credit monitoring services, customized reporting, access to industry data, online functionality, 24/7 service, and managed by a team of JBT staff dedicated to the Canadian market. Qualified member participants will receive the following: Instant credit ratings/reports for over 70,000 U.S.-based and Canadian companies/individuals in the jewellery industry available online 24/7; 25 Free Credit Reports; and more. To qualify, CJA supply members must complete JBT application forms as well as submit accounts receivable aging and customer listing files upon application and each month during the introductory membership period. To apply,

contact Erica D’Ambrosio at JBT by calling 401-467-0055 ext. 3410 or email Erica at [email protected].

Rio Tinto Commits to the Chinese Diamond IndustryRio Tinto confirmed the important role China will play in the long term sales and marketing strategy of its diamonds portfolio. Speaking at the 2010 China Diamond Conference in Shanghai, Mr Jean-Marc Lieberherr, general manager for the sales and marketing of all diamonds from Rio Tinto’s mines, commented, “Diamonds have a small but important position in Rio Tinto’s diverse portfolio and attract much attention because of their growth potential. We see China playing an important role in that growth.” Rio Tinto recently launched a strategic partnership with leading Chinese retailer Chow Tai Fook to develop a fashion jewellery category, separate to the existing bridal market in China. Chow Tai Fook’s superior expertise in the design, manufacture and retailing of diamond jewellery in China, along with Rio Tinto’s world-class diamond productions, makes for a natural alliance. Lieberherr highlighted the fact that China has entered a fast growth stage that will change the face of the diamond jewellery market, “The emerging middle-class demographic in China is an ideal entry point for affordable diamond jewellery,” he said. “Increasingly, Chinese consumers will be seeking to differentiate themselves through fashion and fashion jewellery, and this will be the driver of future growth in retail diamond jewellery demand.”

U.S. Supreme Court Rejects Tiffany’s eBay Challenge According to a report by the Dow Jones Newswire, the U.S. Supreme Court has decided, without comment, against a Tiffany & Co. lawsuit that cites eBay over the sale of counterfeit jewellery on the online auction website. Tiffany alleged eBay is responsible for infringing the brand’s trademarks because it facilitated the sale of counterfeit Tiffany

Toronto Designer Launches Necklace to Benefit Sarcoma Cancer Foundation of CanadaFor the new year, Toronto-based jewellery designer Darlene Martin is donating 20 per cent of the proceeds from a special limited-edition necklace series to the Sarcoma Cancer Foundation of Canada, a national organization dedicated to supporting patients and their families, while working with Canada’s leading research institutions in their efforts to eradicate Sarcoma cancers. Martin created the Tiny Dancer series with Swarovski elements and other semi-precious stones specifically for the cause. “It is with great pride that we are able to help Canadians deal with this disease through the sale of this jewellery series,” says Martin. “The SCFCs Founder and Chair, Diana Arajs, helped us when we first launched the Bijouxbead brand, and now that we are an established company, it is time to give back.”

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items. Two lower courts sided with eBay, saying the auctioneer couldn’t be held liable unless it had specific knowledge that particular items might be counterfeit. Tiffany noted a significant portion of the items found on eBay is counterfeit, alleging that hundreds of thousands of counterfeit silver SKUs have been offered on the site. Tiffany participated in a program with eBay to remove auction listings it deemed suspicious, but the company said the program did not resolve eBay’s “massive counterfeiting problem.”

Gemesis Diamond Company to Market Colourless Lab-Created Diamonds Direct to ConsumersGemesis Diamond Company, a producer of gem-quality lab-created diamonds, is

launching high-quality, colourless diamonds as part of its product portfolio. The privately-held international organization, headquartered in Sarasota, Fla., is now in full production of colourless diamonds that it says equal the best quality mined diamonds. Most diamonds in current inventory average approximately half-carats, however, the sizes of the colourless diamonds have exceeded one carat. The company is in its final stages of developing its own line, designed especially for Gemesis lab-created diamonds. The brand will also launch a new e-commerce web site in the coming months, combined with parallel sales through limited retailers who subscribe to the company program – including education, approach, and pricing philosophy. The company says its own Internet pricing

will not undermine participating retailers. Gemesis Diamond Company has also made advances with its fancy coloured stones, achieving a beautiful vivid yellow colour that is highly desired and recognized by the consumer. The new yellow stones will be available in significant carat weights on the e-commerce site.

Birks and Gucci Preview “La Dolce Vita” in Toronto Birks and Gucci Timepieces recently teamed up for a cocktail event in Toronto to unveil new timepieces pieces and a special viewing of the photo exhibit “La Dolce Vita, 1950 – 1960: Stars and Celebrities in the Italian Fifties,” curated by Marco Panella and sponsored by Artix and by Cinecittà Luce. The exhibit

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Hublot Opens Boca Raton Boutique Hublot recently expanded its boutiques in the U.S., with the opening of the Boca Raton location in Mizner Park. Hublot CEO Claude Biver donated two special Hublot timepieces to the Jewish Federation of South Palm Beach County to mark the occasion. Special guests included top Hublot collectors such as Dr. Ken and. Lisa Rosen, Sanjiv Sharma, Sheri Sack, Lee and Julia Rosen and more. Biver hosted a ribbon cutting ceremony at the Boca Raton Hublot boutique to culminate the celebration.

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included a selection of vintage photographs from the Luce Archives and magazines of the time. The complete exhibit, which celebrates these golden years of Italian cinema, was shown in Rome at the Mercati di Traiano Museum in fall 2010.

Argyle Pink Diamonds Announces New Authorized Partner in IndiaRio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamonds business announced specialist diamond jewellery designer, manufacturer and luxury retailer Nirav Modi from Firestone Diamond, as its partner in India for the signature pink diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Firestone Diamond joins a select group of master craftsmen known as Authorized Partners and Select Ateliers who have been appointed to work with the pink diamonds. “We extend a very warm welcome to Firestone Diamond as our partner in India,” said Josephine Archer, business manager for Argyle Pink Diamonds. “Nirav Modi’s

commitment to beautiful design and quality craftsmanship is a perfect fit with the rarity, beauty and luxury of Argyle pink diamonds.” Firestone Diamond is a third generation diamond company specializing in the design and manufacture of one-of-a-kind heirloom jewellery pieces. Firestone has previously acquired rare pink and blue diamonds from the Argyle mine, showcasing them in beautiful jewellery pieces. Most recently, the sale of Nirav Modi’s extraordinary US$3.56-million Golconda Lotus necklace launched this unique designer into the world of jewellery. This stunning necklace comprised an unprecedented collection of 34 rare Argyle pink diamonds, linked together by special diamond chains. According to Nirav Modi, chairman of Firestone Diamond, “The time is right for India to take its place in the world of rare coloured diamonds. This exclusive partnership provides an ideal opportunity to enhance the demand for rare pink diamonds in India. We look forward to

more successful collaborations with Argyle Pink Diamonds.” [CJ]


Please note:In the Last Word section of our November 2010 issue, we identified the St-Onge Fine Jewellery pendant as the Lanterne with the image of a different piece in the collection. The image that should have run is below.

AGTA Gem Trading Platform Now LiveThe American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has officially launched the AGTA GemeShare online coloured gemstone trading platform. After more than two years in development and beta-testing, the AGTA GemeShare online marketplace (agtagemeshare.com) will offer a wide selection of coloured gemstones from AGTA Member dealers. The site is free to use for all jewellery industry buyers and currently boasts thousands of gemstone listings. “An ongoing concern of retail buyers and manufacturers in sourcing gemstones online is knowing that the source is credible,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. “With the AGTA GemeShare platform, only AGTA Members can list gemstones for sale, which means that retailers can be assured that they are buying from companies who adhere to a strict Code of Ethics and disclosure.” All gemstones are accompanied by a photographic image along with the accurate colour of the gemstone, verified by the seller using the GemeWizard colour analysis system. The website also offers retailers the opportunity to create a customized webpage storefront that can be integrated with their current website. Retailers will be able to offer a huge virtual inventory of gemstones to their clients over the web or in the store with pricing based on their desired markup levels.

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Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ.Jan11_Nova.indd 1 12/15/10 12:40:12 PM


Battle of the Gold RushesOntario’s history as a gold- and silver-mining giant.

BY STAN SUDOL

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The Yukon Klondike gold rush of 1896-1899 seems to take all the glory in many accounts of past gold rushes, while Northern Ontario’s four globally signi� cant gold/silver discoveries in the

� rst half of the last century do not get the historical respect they deserve.

� e initial Klondike discovery was in 1896, at a � sh camp near the junction of the Yukon and Klondike rivers. At the height of the rush, Dawson Creek, the main staging town at the mouth of the Klondike River, had a booming population of about 30,000, and was known as the most cosmopolitan city west of Winnipeg and north of Vancouver. Due to its isolation, all the claims had been staked by the time most people � nally arrived.

Fortunes were made and lost in Dawson Creek’s rip-roaring frontier atmosphere. In total, about 12.5-million ounces of gold was produced during this short-lived rush, which lasted for less than a decade.

Northern Ontario’s major gold rushes started with the Cobalt silver boom of 1903. � is major silver discovery was the result of the construction of the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railway which, was funded by the provincial government to help colonize the north. � ere were basically three discoveries that started the silver rush. � e � rst was by contractors James H. McKinley and Ernest J. Darragh who were providing lumber for the railroad. � e second discovery came a few weeks later in mid-September when blacksmith Fred LaRose allegedly threw a hammer at a fox. � e hammer missed the fox but broke o� a chunk of rock to reveal a vein of silver that eventually became a mine. Tom Hebert made the third discovery that eventually became the Big Nip mine that yielded more than 91-million ounces of silver over 40 years.

Cobalt’s enormous silver discoveries made headlines around the world, and silver fever even hit New York’s Wall Street in 1906, when unruly mobs of people trying to buy Cobalt mining stocks had to be broken up. Cobalt has been o� en called “the cradle of Canada’s mining industry.” It trained the prospecting mining capabilities of Canadians, provided enormous capital � nancing, and set the stage for important gold discoveries in the immediate region. � e silver mines � nally ran out by the 1990s but the Cobalt camp had yielded a phenomenal 460-million ounces of the precious metal, far exceeding the value of the gold produced at the Klondike.

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In 1909, about 100 kilometres north of Cobalt, near Porcupine Lake, prospector Harry Preston slipped on a rock and scraped off the moss covering. Underneath, he and his partners, including Jack Wilson, discovered a ledge of quartz covered with gold. The site became the famous Dome Mine which is still producing to this day. News rapidly spread and the next big discovery was made by Benny Hollinger, a former barber from a nearby town, and Alex Gillies, a professional prospector. Their claims were later developed into the world-class Hollinger mine by entrepreneur Noah Timmins, who founded the city of the same name. The Hollinger mine operated from 1910-1968, producing 19.3-million ounces of gold, the country’s biggest historical producer. About the same time, Sandy McIntyre and Hans Butlner discovered what became the McIntyre Porcupine mines nearby.

By 1930, Canada had become the world’s second largest producer of gold, with Ontario responsible for most of that output, all from the north. The Porcupine camp has produced about 72-million ounces of gold over the past century. In addition, an enormous copper, zinc and silver deposit was discovered near Timmins in 1963, which is still in production. New gold deposits are still being found in Timmins today, which is experiencing a booming economy, unaffected by the recent recession.

The next major gold discovery occurred at Kirkland Lake, north of Cobalt. In 1911, prospectors William Wright and Ed Hargreaves became separated while hunting for rabbits. Hargreaves fired his rifle to attract Wright’s attention. While rushing through the bush towards the rifle shot, Wright stumbled across a quartz outcrop with gold. They staked their claims on the main ore-bearing fault of the Kirkland Lake gold camp, which later became the nucleus of three large mines – the Sylvanite, Wright-Hargreaves and Lakeshore. Wright quickly bought

out Hargreaves and held on to his claims, becoming a very wealthy man in the process. In 1936, he founded The Globe and Mail newspaper.

The Kirkland Lake gold rush attracted many characters, including American-born Harry Oaks, whose claims became the Lakeshore mine, one of the richest in the world. He was mysteriously killed in the Bahamas in 1943. During the 1930s, the Kirkland Lake/Larder Lake area was one of the most prosperous in the country due to 22 producing gold mines.

Historical gold production from this mining camp is about 38-million ounces, the second-highest in Canada. Kirkland Lake is currently experiencing another gold boom. A recent report stated that the town needs to build 600 new homes in the next six years, due to the 1,000 new jobs in the mining sector.

In the summer of 1925, gold was discovered near Red Lake, an isolated spot 110 miles northwest of the train station at Hudson, a few miles west of Sioux Lookout. This event triggered the last great gold rush in North America. More than 3,000 people converged on Red Lake at the height of the Gold Rush of 1926. By 2006, about 23-million ounces of gold had been dug out of the rich greenstone belts of the Red Lake district. Goldcorp’s Red Lake Gold mine is Canada’s largest and lowest-cost-producing gold mine.

Without a doubt, the enormous wealth dug out of the ground at Cobalt, Timmins, Kirkland Lake and Red Lake is disproportionately larger than the legendary Klondike gold fields. And except for Cobalt, Ontario’s gold mining centres are still in production, creating enormous wealth for the provincial economy. [CJ]

Stan Sudol is a Toronto-based communications consultant and executive speech writer. www.republicofmining.com

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I believe the term pickling comes from the chemical that jewellers once used to do the job: traditionally alum is used for making pickles. Many jewellers today are not aware that they can use alum

for cleaning oxides and flux off their soldered objects.

Here is what I think happened: jewellers once used alum (and salts) to pickle with, then in the 19th century, mineral acids became cheaper and more available, which along with the rise in industrialization and the increasing need for speed, caused sulfuric acid to become the standard pickling solution. Sulfuric acid, however, is dangerous

to store, handle and mix up. It also wants to concentrate itself to a 49% solution, which means it evaporates water until it reaches this dangerously corrosive proportion. With the introduction of safety and (maybe litigation) pressures in the 1950s, jewellers began to turn to dry salts, which dissociate in water to form steady, constant low dilutions of acid.

The most common one used by jewellers has various brand names (sometimes called a “safety pickle”). It is normally sodium bisulfate, which is used in industry for pickling metals of all kinds (especially

In a PickleJewellers treat soldered and heated objects with dilute acid solutions to remove oxides produced from heating and soldering silver, gold and other alloys as well as glassy flux

residues. This process is called pickling. By Charles lewton-Brain

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steel), in tanning leather, in toilet bowl cleaners and, most importantly, for jewellers. It is also used to reduce the pH of water in swimming pools or hot tubs. This most easily available source is called “swimming pool acid” or “pH reducer,” and is found at your local hardware or grocery store. It is essentially the same material as dry Safety Pickle and is mixed in the same manner, perhaps half a cup of the granules to four litres (one gallon) of water. This is significantly cheaper than what you get from the jeweller’s supply store. An even larger user of this chemical is the cleaning industry, and great drums of the material are apparently used by industrial cleaners for cleaning toilets – which has interesting implications in terms of disposal. The copper sulfate formed during the pickling process (the blue colour) is not appropriate to put into the waste water stream, as the copper sulfate kills aquatic life. This is why copper sulfate is available from agricultural suppliers, as it is used by farmers to kill off algae blooms in roadside ditches and ponds.

After all these changes people forgot about using alum as a pickle. It works and is simple to use.

alumAlum has an advantage over Safety Pickles. It does not appear to outgas as much. Tools placed near a Safety Pickle will rust, but tools next to an alum pickle do not. As well, you can place steel tweezers or wire into

an alum pickle without causing the copper plating reaction onto your work, familiar to those jewellers who have done this with a standard pickle. A fairly dilute solution is used for pickling, a small bottle of alum to a whole crockpot of water.

Alum also has a wonderful use: removing embedded drill bits that have broken off in work. It can be difficult to otherwise remove a drill bit end without damaging the piece. Make a concentrated solution of alum, almost a saturated mixture or alum and water. Use a Pyrex® or similar non-metal pot for this. Then simmer the work in it and in about 20 minutes the drill bit turns to black dust and falls out.

Citric acidSome jewellers use citric acid as a pickle. This is a powdered industrial baking supply material which can also be found in Asian Indian grocery stores. It takes a fair bit of powder, a number of cups (I have heard 5-8 cups) to a crock pot of water to make a pickle. It works more slowly than sodium bisulfate, and rumour has it that if you leave it alone, cold, for a week or two, it can serve as a growth medium for interesting brightly coloured molds. Phil Poirier of Taos, N. M., feels that citric acid pickle has the advantage of not adding sulfur compounds (and hence producing sulfur dioxide gas when melted) to cast sprue buttons being cleaned for remelting. He says that he has reduced porosity in cast re-used metals by using citric acid instead of sodium bisulfate.

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Other picklesVinegar and salt makes a very good safe home pickle; about one cup vinegar to one teaspoon salt or more. An emergency pickle is to sprinkle salt on a cut lemon and rub it over the metal to be pickled. I’ve even tried ketchup and cola drinks with salt for this, with fair success.

So what do I use on an everyday basis? Swimming pool acid (sodium bisulfate) does me fine. I prefer to separate my chemical activity from the bench workspace and to set up a pickle area close to the sink and rinse water. This restricts chemical residues to an easily wet-wiped area.

A covered crock pot works very well for containing a pickle. One must take care not to splash the acid around, and to keep the outside clean, as the crock pot will tend to corrode if not cared for. Some goldsmiths who solder at their benches use a small electric coffee-cup warmer to keep a Pyrex® beaker of pickle warm near at hand. For pickling odd shapes, use a suitably shaped container, for instance. For long and tall objects, use a long and tall container such as a bottle to pickle in.

A pickle solution can last for months, replenished with water when necessary, kept clean and so on. In a shared shop, I suggest caulking all seams of a crock pot with silicone, caulking the heat control fixed onto the low setting and regularly wiping it down. This prevents boiling the pickle dry accidentally on high (which can result in a choking, smoking chemical fire), and slows corrosion damage to the crock pot.

Copper Flashing removal PickleIf you accidentally get copper flashing on your metal from steel contamination in a pickle, or when heating brass or nickel silver, chemical copper plating may be quickly stripped from the metal with a specific pickle. Take a scoop full of pickle solution from the pickle pot and mix it with an equal quantity of 3% hydrogen peroxide from

the drug store. This strips off copper flashing in about two minutes. If you leave brass in the solution for longer, it turns an interesting yellow colour and then etches the metal exposing the crystal structure. A stronger version of this solution is used by metallurgists to etch crystals in order to examine them.

The mixture may be returned to the pickle pot after use, as the peroxide breaks down to make water. Avoid using industrial-strength peroxide solutions for this process, as they can be quite dangerous.

Pickle free fluxesWhen one works in high-karat golds, then self pickling fluxes like Batterns and Pripps can be used, as the metal does not oxidize easily. In an 18k gold with such a flux, one simply needs to use hot water to remove residues and then keep on working. Silver alloys and base metals, however, do not work well, as these thinner fluxes burn out and stop absorbing with 18k, 22k and above. Firescoff´® is a new anti-oxidant that can work very well to protect metal when soldering and heating, and if applied correctly onto the hot metal, can work like a self-pickling flux. Hot water and the ultrasonic can be used to remove its residues. [CJ]

Pripps Flux recipe:• Borax (Sodium diborate) 30g • Trisodium Phosphate (di-Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate) (Na2HPO4) 30g (found at the supermarket/hardware store but read the label to make sure)• Boric Acid 44g (Boric acid can be found in drug stores but also as anti cockroach powder – read the label)• Distilled water to the 500ml mark

“Some jewellers use citric acid as a pickle. This is

a powdered industrial baking supply material which can also be found in asian Indian grocery stores.”


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Dedicated tothe Bench

BY CAROL BESLER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN SANDERSON

Custom design and collaboration with fellow artists and local celebrities keeps 18Karat Goldsmiths

relevant and original.

You might say custom jewellers Dino and Massimo Giannetti of 18Karat Goldsmiths in Toronto have the artisan’s touch in their blood. Before emigrating to Canada from Rome in 1950, their father, Tullio, was being groomed for a career as an art

restorer for the Vatican, speci� cally in the area of al-stucco design. “� is was hardly an in-demand vocation in 1950s Toronto,” says Massimo. Nevertheless, a� er a few years working in construction – like many emigrants to Canada in the 1950s – Tullio was able to explore his other passion, jewellery making, and turn it into a profession.

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Dino and Massimo Giannetti of 18Karat Goldsmiths in Toronto taken in 2010; Polaroid image taken in 1979.



Tullio set out to learn the art of ornamental hand engraving, working with Anson Forstner, a leading jewellery manufacturer of the day, and before long, he was doing goldsmith � nishing for major jewellery companies, operating out of a workshop in his home. “I remember how proud I was the � rst time I saw his work on display in a shop in Niagara-on-the-Lake,” says Massimo. In 1969, the Giannettis and their son Massimo, then 23, founded Dino’s Credit Jewellers, named a� er their second son, Dino, who at the age of 14, was already demonstrating his talent as a master goldsmith. � ey bought the building that housed their store, and “ran our family business in a very family way,” says Massimo. “We had a kitchen in the back where customers, family and friends would drop in for a snack, a glass of homemade wine, a chat, maybe a game of cards, and then pick up a bobble on the way out. � e local parish priest made it a regular part of his weekly walkabout. He enjoyed the wine, and we never talked about religion.”

Ten years later, the name was changed to 18Karat Goldsmiths, and in 1979, the business moved from Woodbridge to its present, street-front

location at Village By � e Grange, on Dundas Street West in Toronto. � e duo hired a top interior designer and an Italian � ne cabinetmaker to create a look that communicated the handmade, workshop ambience that “expressed our vision of what a jewellery shop should look like,” says Massimo. “Centre stage is our workshop, where the performance of designing and creating each piece of jewellery is completely open to view, surrounded by unique handmade showcases.”

� e brothers began to focus on rare and unusual gemstones as well as original designs, all the while making an e� ort to keep the pieces accessible, o� ering a wide range of pieces, from $20-$20,000. In keeping with the philosophy of remaining accessible and approachable, there is no buzzer on the door.

“Doing custom work means our clients can take ownership of the � nal product,” says Dino. “� is involvement attaches a sentiment to the item that I don’t think exists when selecting a ready-made item. What I believe attracts people to jewellery is the way it can exist as more


coverstory


than an accessory – it can become a relic or an heirloom, something imbued with a history. Being involved in the creation of a jewellery piece greatly adds to that story for our clients.”

This dedication to working closely with clients is sometimes taken to the extreme. A few years ago, a customer requested a custom engagement ring in time for Christmas Eve, less than two weeks away. “Knowing that we sometimes work best under pressure, we accepted the challenge, and created a beautiful diamond ring,” says Dino. The ring was finished on time, but the customer called to say he would be unable to come in to pick it up. Dino therefore offered to deliver the ring. After closing up shop on Christmas Eve, he headed north to the small town where the client lives. An hour later, he found himself in the middle of a blizzard on a dark, rural road. Amidst heavy snow and high winds, Dino’s car became stuck in the snow at the bottom of a hill. Luckily, a couple who lived nearby spotted him in the distance, and came out to help the stranded driver. When they arrived, Dino recognized his customer, the one he was on his way to meet! After realizing it was Dino, the customer spontaneously turned to his girlfriend, got down on one knee, and proposed. After she accepted, he got up, and they proceeded to help pull Dino’s car out of the ditch.

“In the last few years, we have

noticed a sharp increase in the

number of people coming in who

have viewed our gallery of custom

work online and the incredible variety

of work we have created”

Malaphyre and 18k gold pendant



In keeping with 18Karat’s custom, handcra� ed sensibility, the store has recently begun to carry jewellery created by other goldsmiths, silversmiths and designers from across Canada, with a focus on Toronto. � is endeavor, along with marketing and promotions, is coordinated by the brothers’ trusted colleague, Vanessa Laurin, a visual artist and fashion designer with an eye for jewellery design. “When we began to introduce new work into the shop about two years ago, we did so in order to o� er our clients a greater variety of work and a wider range of price points, without sacri� cing our commitment to quality,” explains Laurin. “More and more people want to know where their jewellery comes from, who made it, and, more importantly, why they made it and what it means to them. � e advantage of carrying locally produced artisan jewellery over big brand names is that people want to buy into the story of the work just as much, if not more than they want to buy that piece of jewellery. Every piece in our shop is attached to the person who made it, and the philosophy behind the work they create.” � e designers’ work is carried on consignment.

� e majority of 18Karat’s client base is gained through referrals, but many also contact the store a� er visiting the web site. “In the last few years, we have noticed a sharp increase in the number of people

coming in who have viewed our gallery of custom work online and the incredible variety of work we have created,” says Dino. Events and competitions are another great means of marketing. � e Giannettis hold regular exhibitions in the store throughout the year, focusing predominately on up-and-coming designers. � is involves an ongoing partnership with George Brown College, whereby 18Karat features some of the work of recent graduates and hosts juried jewellery arts shows.

� e store’s largest event is a charity auction 18Karat is now hosting for the second year in a row. Last year’s auction, “Uniti,” brought together 13 jewellery designers who teamed up with celebrities to create pieces inspired by the themes of family and community. Gordon Pinsent, for example, teamed up with designer Meghan Schnarr to create a pendant to commemorate his wife, who passed away recently. In a modern take on the cameo, the piece, a pendant, represents her silhouette, cra� ed in silver, copper, jade and 18k gold. Elvis Stojko worked with Vanessa Laurin to create an unusual pendant made of rose quartz – because it symbolizes love – and onyx, in the celtic claddagh-ring style, with stylized hands cradling and protecting a heart. Dina Pugliese, star of CityTV’s Breakfast Television, worked with Dino to create a heart-


coverstory


shaped pendant with a bale in the style of a door. A black jade was used to signify strength, and the door represents coming home to a safe and secure place. The pieces were auctioned off at Waddington’s, with proceeds benefiting the Red Door Family Shelter. This year, 18Karat is hosting “Boldly,” a charity auction and design competition to benefit the Assaulted Women’s Helpline. Boldly will present pieces created by a team of 10 designers, according to the theme of strength and courage. The pieces will be judged by a panel of Toronto’s fashion elite, and then auctioned off during an evening event in April – with all the proceeds going to the charity.

“Our philosophy,” says Massimo, “is that only when a community is strong can the individuals within it grow. Our family business is made stronger when we work with other jewellers, others members of our industry, and the greater public, rather then viewing everyone and everything as competition.” And how does that build business for the store? Massimo believes that people, “not only potential clients but also the media, are more interested in what you are doing than what you are selling.” The Uniti auction was covered by the CBC and Breakfast Television – “we are still reaping the benefits,” he says.

As for inspiration, the Giannetti’s look to unorthodox sources. Although they attend the Milan and Vicenza Fair in Italy, as well as Toronto and New York JCK shows, they are also interested in attending shows such as the One of a Kind Show and Toronto’s Outdoor Art Show. “But most of our ideas come from discussions with our clients – assessing what their needs and interests are,” says Dino. “It is also incredibly important to maintain relationships with other goldsmiths and artists within our community, and to network with shops similar to ours. We like to meet artists who are in the same unique position as we are – artisans who deal directly with the public – in order to keep a pulse on what is going on and to stay relevant.”

It is not surprising, then, that the advice Massimo would give to someone just starting out in the business today would be: “Network, network, network. Not only is it important to foster a public image and a brand when launching a retail business, it is also important to meet people within the industry who possess the skills and knowledge that someone starting out may not possess. No one can be successful without the support of others, and it is important to invest in those relationships.” [CJ]

Custom earrings by 18Karat Goldsmiths



Back-to-basics, micro-pavé and diamonds in silver are set to be the strongest drivers in diamond jewellery sales in the coming year, according to Canadian retailers, manufacturers

and wholesalers.

“So far it is a year of basics, says Brent Trepel, CEO of national chain Ben Moss Jewellers. “Until we see a strong market recovery, I think the focus will continue to be on basics and therefore a strong holiday season for diamond solitaire jewellery. I think there is mixed reaction in the marketplace towards diamond brands.” Mo Charania of Jubilee Fine Jewellers in Ottawa concurs: “Diamond studs followed by diamond bracelets are leading the way again. Basics seem to be the operative word.”

� e holiday season was expected to be strong, [Canadian Jeweller went to press before the season was over] with bridal – especially princess cuts and larger diamonds – leading the way in diamond jewellery. “I thought for awhile that princess cuts were dying o� , but the last four enquiries we had were for approximately one-carat princess cuts,” says Greg Bird of Gregory’s Jewellers in Vernon, B.C. Bird also reports the good news that “young people still want a large diamond or expensive ring,” though he adds, “even though they have no idea how they will pay for it.” Ernie Epp, of Independent Jewellers in Winnipeg, con� rms, “our bridal sales

Quality diamonds in both medium- and high-end merchandise are the key to healthy diamond sales say Canadian jewellers.

BY CAROL BESLER

Adjustable butterfl y gemstone ring from Fufoo Fine Jewelry

for Girls.

Stuller sterling-silver and diamond scroll key necklace, with diamonds.

Stuller sterling-silver and diamond fl eur-de-lis key necklace, with diamonds.

Diamondwinne�

Black and white diamond fl ower ring, in 18k gold, by Nova Diamonds.


are definitely featuring larger diamonds – I can't remember the last time we sold a quarter-carat diamond.” Michele Bankowski of Diamonds of Detroit, in Humboldt, Sask., concurs. “We have been experiencing good success with Bridal rings set with 0.75ct - 1.00ct centres,” she says.

Prototype programs are also emerging as a great way to maximize bridal sales, many of them comprised of CZ and base metals instead of diamonds and gold, helping retailers to keep inventory costs down. Stuller, for example, recently introduced The Merchandising Solution, a program of highly finished prototypes that allows retailers to show US$280,000 worth of inventory for an investment of only US$8,500. The main focus of the program is bridal. Art Carved also has a new prototype program, which Bankowski says has garnered “very positive response,” so far.

Stocking loose diamonds is another way to optimize diamond sales. “We have been buying diamonds direct, primarily in Antwerp, for a number of years now and it has really made a difference to our sales,” says Reg Grandis of Grandis Jewellers in Petrolia, Ont. “In order to make the big sales you have to commit to the inventory. We keep a loose inventory of several hundred diamonds all the way up to three carats, so we seldom miss a sale. We tend to stock by price point, so we always have something to offer. If someone is asking for a one-carat round, for instance, we can show as many as 20 different stones. The one thing that I’m very strict on is stocking diamonds with good light performance, no matter what the price range.”

This attention to light performance has become an important consideration over the past decade, constituting the main added-value for diamond brands with superior cut. Grandis has done exceptionally well with Firemark brand princess cuts, “purely because of their superior brilliance. They are also priced very well, and we are getting excellent markups.” Others, including Epp, have success with brands such as Hearts-on-Fire, Scott Kay and Mark Schneider.

As for Canadian brands, they are still strong, but, for some, on the wane. The main attraction to Canadian diamonds is their conflict-free status and, if they are ideals, the cut factor. “We've noticed that fewer and fewer people have been asking for Canadian diamonds,” says Grandis. “But we still stock a range of triple-excellent CanadaMarks.” Bird, of Gregory’s Jewellers, adds, “People want nice diamonds and want to be assured that the diamond they are buying is not a conflict diamond. Some also want a Canadian because they are Canadian. But the next words out of their mouths after saying ‘Canadian diamond,’ are ‘Oh, aren't they a lot more money?’ Too bad that is the impression of the consumer.”

Marketing support, then, remains the key to a successful diamond brand. “Brands are generally successful, but this is due to the marketing behind them – at the store level or in the media – or because they have a unique feature or product,” says Charania, who carries Lazare Diamonds. “Brands do offer margin, and generally give the consumer some confidence and trust in what they are buying,” he adds.

As for diamond fashion jewellery trends, tennis bracelets, micro pavé styles and black-and-white diamond combinations are topping the charts. “We've not seen too much action on diamond bracelets in previous years,” says Epp, “So we are showing more this Christmas. Hopefully we are guessing right.” Bankowski and others believe micro pavé, particularly with black and white diamonds, will lead the fashion category in the coming year. “Micro-pavé techniques are still in demand but there is a move to 0.01ct sizes seen in round cut shoulder diamonds,” says Michael Clarke, vice-president of finished jewellery for Stuller. “Micro-pavé settings were previously holding diamonds much smaller than we see today – 200 per carat and 300 per carat were the standard, but today, we are seeing more of the 150 per carat to 200 per carat. The setting is more reliable with the slight increase in size.”


productfocus

Micro-pavé rings, with large diamonds, from Tacori.

Diamond“as for diamond fashion jewellery trends, tennis bracelets,

micro pavé styles and black-and-white diamond

combinations are topping the charts.”



productfocus

Michael Sapir of Nova Diamonds, Toronto, says large domed rings surrounded by micro-pavé diamonds are a hot look. “We are getting a lot of orders for rings with clusters of diamonds,” he says, “particularly in � oral motifs, and a lot of black-and-white combinations,” says Sapir. “� is has been a huge trend in Europe for the past three years, and has come to Canada.” Sapir adds that combinations of champagne and white diamonds are also growing in popularity, not just for rings but for bracelets. “� e tennis bracelet never fails,” he comments.

Sterling-silver jewellery, which is enjoying a tremendous resurgence due to the price of gold, is also pumping up the fashion category, and is increasingly being set with diamonds. “Silver and alternative metals are gaining widespread acceptance as reasonable alternatives to gold for diamond settings,” says Clarke, of Stuller. “Setting diamonds in silver is not only acceptable but is growing in popularity. Some jewellers use gold basket settings, but silver is strong enough to take the diamonds and hold them in place for reasonable time and wear.”

Ultimately, the notion of enduring quality remains high on the list of consumer expectations at the moment. Bain & Company, the U.S. consulting � rm that tracks and forecasts luxury consumer buying, was predicting a 3% gain in jewellery sales in the U.S. over the holidays. In a study of consumer spending habits released in the fall, titled “Why She Shops,” Bain reported that quality is a key driver, more important than price: 80% of respondents in the survey agreed that “I am willing to pay more for clothing and accessories that will last more than one season.” [CJ]

Diamond Advertisers in this issueDiamond Advertisers in this issue

The Tiffany Lucida: branded diamond cuts demonstrate added value.

Champagne and white diamond fl ower ring in 18k gold, by Nova Diamonds.

The Crown Setting engagement ring from Scott Kay.

Diamond heart pendant, by JSN.

Best Bargainst: 416.214.2582

Crown Ringt: 519.381.1589w: www.crownring.com

Gee N Gee Importerst: 604.684.1131w: www.geengee.com

Image Fifth Avet: 514.875.6182

Karat Importst: 604.533.9674w: www.karatgroup.com

Lega Jewelleryt: 514.845.0066w: www.legajeweller.com

Malo Creationst: 450.682.6561w: www.maloinc.ca

Midas Jewelryt: 800.216.0899

Miraget: 877.BY MIRAGEw: www.miragecreations.com

Noble Gift Packagingt: 514.278.8500w: www.noblepack.com

O’Neill Diamondst: 866.966.3455

PH Designt: 416.367.2870w: www.phdesign.ca

Siffarit: 416.441.1010w: www.siffari.com

Stullert: 337.262.7700w: www.stuller.com


Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


CJ.Jan11_Mirage.indd 1 12/15/10 12:47:45 PM

diamonddirectory


Canadian Diamond DirectoryACCUDIAM INC.55 Queen St E, Ste 708, Toronto, ON, M5C 1R6, Canada(416) 367-0070(416) 367-0071Ajay [email protected]

AMADENA LLC576 5th Avenue, 12th Floor, New York, NY, 10036, USA(212) 382-1122 ext.223(212) 354-2886Deepak [email protected]

ARCTIC FOX DIAMONDS NORTHAM DIAMONDS

27 Queen St. E., Suite 1004, Toronto, ON, M5C 2M6, Canada(416) 861-1414(416) 861-1581Jonathan [email protected]

CANADIAN DIAMONDS BY COLUMBIA LIBMAN & CO

250 Carnarctic Drive, Downsview, ON, M3J 2P4, Canada(416) 661-2661*141(416) 667-8830Howard Shan� eldhshan� [email protected]

THE CAPRICE B & S (CANADA) INC.27 Queen St. East, Suite 804, Toronto, ON, M5C 2M6, Canada(416) 368-0440(416) 368-6659Adom A [email protected]; www.capricecanadiandiamonds.ca

CARAT SMART DIAMONDS

O’NEILL DIAMONDS INC.Unit 622 - 736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC, V6Z 1G3, Canada(604) 909-0818Eran Giniwww.caratsmart.ca

CORONA JEWELLERY

16 Ripley Ave., Toronto, ON, M6S 3N9, Canada(416) 762-2222x5511(416) 762-2445Jon [email protected]

DIAMOND GALLERY 1735 Corydon Avenue, Winnipeg, Manitoba, R3N 0K4 Allan Malbranck [email protected]

DIAROUGH CANADA

2225 Sheppard Ave. East, Suite 1015, Toronto, ON, M2J 5C2, Canada(416) 490-8490*23(416) 490-0454Gail [email protected]

ESKIMO ARCTIC ICE MDL DIAMONDS 55 Queen St. East, Suite 601, Toronto, ON, M5C 2M6, Canada(416) 864-1392(416) 864-1010George [email protected]

FLANDERS COLLECTION - TRUST MARK OF CANADA POLE STAR DIAMONDS BOTH BY GEE N’ GEE IMPORTERS 736 Granville Street, Suite 400, Vancouver, BC, V6Z 1G3, Canada(604) 684-1131(604) 684-6503Gill [email protected]

HALLMARK OF QUALITY

REGAL IMPORTS LTD.650 West 41st Avenue, Suite 630, North Tower, Vancouver, BC, V5Z 2M9, Canada(604) 263-2621(604) 263-4008Melvin Moss, Trish Aratowww.regalimportsltd.comwww.hallmarkofquality.ca

JUBILEE FINE JEWELLERS

50 Rideau street, Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 9J7 (613) 238-1886(613) 238-7329Mo [email protected]

J.S.N. JEWELLERY INC.64 Jardin Drive, Ste.7, Concord, Ont., L4K 3P3, Canada(905) 660-3277Steve [email protected]

MOR BROTHERS DIAMONDS Diamond Exchange, 1 Jabotinsky St., Maccabi Building, Suite 1131,Ramat-Gan, 52520, IsraelYohanan Mor972-575-5362www.mor-brothers.com

VANDAN ASSOCIATES55 Queen St. East, Suite 407, Toronto, ON, M5C 1R6, Canada(416) 499-5005*23(888) 297-1542(416) 499-2334Umesh [email protected]

Every effort has been made to publish accurate information and contact all companies producing Canadian diamonds. If you would like to be added to future listings, please contact [email protected]

048.CJ_Diamonds.indd 48 12/16/10 2:19:01 PM

CRÉATIONS

LOGO DESIGN BY:CLIENT:

This information is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the client. Use of this information by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited and may be unlawful. When addressed to our customers any information contained in this presentation is subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the starmedia.ca

MARDINI / MALO Wedding Bands

COLLECTION

QUEBEC Denis Lafontaine (514) 708-4665

ONTARIO Peter Nementh (647) 289-5266

MARITIMES Robert Beaulne (514) 891-8769

MANITOBA & SASKATCHEWAN: Raymond Levesque (204) 771-2217

ALBERTA Sean Fehr (403) 860-4729

BRITISH COLUMBIA Bob Trudel (604) 816-747

CONTACT OUR AGENTS AT:

HEAD OFFICE:

750, boul. Curé-Labelle, #200, Chomedey, Laval (QC) H7V 2T9 • Tel.: (450) 682-6561 • Fax: (450) 682-0138 Toll Free: 1 800 665-6256 • Toll Free Fax: 1-866-682-0138 • e-mail: [email protected]

For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 80.

CJ_BG_Name.indd 1 12/15/10 1:00:47 PM

Fancy


Experts predict a bright future for sales of natural coloured diamond jewellery.

BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

C an yellow, pink and grey put jewellers in the black this year? When it comes to fancy coloured diamond jewellery, industry insiders are very optimistic. Robert May, executive director of

the Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA), points to three recent simultaneous occurrences as signi� cant: record-breaking coloured-diamond auction prices worldwide; a major marketing initiative by a highly visible brand; and consistent increases in consumer purchasing. � e take-away? If you haven’t already committed to the category, 2011 may be the year to do it. And if you have, investing in it more heavily should be a key consideration in your business plan.

Activity at AuctionCertainly not to be trivialized, rare natural coloured diamonds consistently broke auction records throughout 2009 and 2010. One of the most newsworthy was in November, when a rare, emerald-cut 24.78-carat diamond set in a platinum ring sold at Sotheby’s in Geneva for US$46.16-million – much higher than its pre-sale estimate of US$27.38-million.

Still, will superlative sales at auction on rare coloured diamonds necessarily impact mainstream consumer purchasing of more accessible stones? Toronto-based jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia says, “Most

Christian Tse: Pear-shaped pink diamond engagement ring in platinum.

Waldman Diamonds Complete: From the “Arctic Sun Collection”: engagement ring, featuring fancy yellow radiant diamond center stones accented with round colorless stones.

Penny Preville: Necklaces in 18k white gold with mixof black and colorless melee from “The Black Diamond Collection.”

050-053.CJ_ColouredDiamonds.indd 50 12/16/10 4:13:51 PM

coloureddiamonds


de� nitely. In the last 18 months, with the highly publicized auctions, I have seen a tremendous interest in coloured diamond jewellery in my own business.” Ahluwalia’s customers are typically luxury. As are consumers who shop at Oster Jewelers in Denver, Colo., whose owner, Melissa Oster, says, “Auctions have been positively a� ecting purchasing, especially auctions like the Gra� Pink diamond” (the name its purchaser, renowned London jeweller and supplier Laurence Gra� , gave the diamond he bought in November in Geneva for $46.16 million.)

Going forward, such unexpected events at auction will likely also a� ect pricing on coloured diamonds, Oster believes. “I advise my customers to buy them now at the current prices before they go up,” she says. “Yesterday, when I showed one of my customers an incredible yellow diamond, I explained that to her.”

Whether Oster’s customer buys the precious yellow gem now or later, she and her husband and co-owner, Jeremy Oster, will continue to invest in coloured diamonds, which have potentially greater margins than colourless, and which have consistently doubled in value every ten years since the 1970s.

A Sign of the Times: NCDIA’S “Product Sourcing Network”Speaking of the ’70s, what a di� erence three decades can make. Today, as opposed to back then, locating natural coloured diamonds and getting proper prices is much easier.

While margins are signi� cantly greater than those in colourless diamonds, some retailers may be hesitant to jump in, fearful of the lack of a price list (as exists in colourless) or fear of their unknown availability. “� at’s why we introduced � e Product Sourcing Network as a member service,” says May. “It takes the mysticism out of pricing and availability.” NCDIA launched the service about 18 months ago –coincidentally around the same time natural coloured diamond jewellery started to break auction records and show intensi� ed retail sales.

“� e Product Sourcing Network gives you, as a retailer, a direct source,” says May. “We can � nd out within 24 hours of a request, for example, where you can get a particular diamond that your customer wants. We send out a retailer request – but we don’t say which retailer is asking. In response to our request, we’ll get information on what’s available, then you can comfortably tell your customer, for example, “Okay—here are seven diamonds we’ve located for you. It really shows your special customer service.”

Todd Reed: Necklace in 18k yellow gold, hand-forged and fabricated, with rough multi-hued diamonds (221.58ctw) and brilliant-cut diamonds (6.96 ctw).

Sethi Couture: “Enchanted Garden” chandelier earrings mix various hues of natural color diamonds with colorless.

050-053.CJ_ColouredDiamonds.indd 51 12/20/10 9:59:08 AM


The Return of “Yellow Fever”May says the NCDIA Product Sourcing Network will research any diamond colour a member wants information on – “and we get requests on all of them,” he adds. Of late, he’s been seeing many requests for yellow diamonds to be used as centre stones.

While yellow diamond engagement ring centres were all the rage not even six years ago, especially in major metropolitan cities like New York and Chicago, the demand is already back – quicker than the usual cyclical nature of things in jewellery. “Yes, there’s de� nitely a resurgence,” says Melissa Oster. “In the last six months, we’ve seen much more interest again. About 2-1/2 years ago, it stopped, but now it’s back. Just today, I sold a three-carat patented Starburst cut, a modi� ed radiant, for an engagement ring in brushed platinum. It’s elegant, sophisticated, not � ashy.”

While the recovering economy is certainly helping natural coloured diamond jewellery sales, one major marketing initiative has de� nitely done its part, as well, says May. Last year, the world-renowned Ti� any & Co. began heavily promoting its new Ti� any Yellow Diamond jewellery collection, touting the stone’s rarity and developing a complete collection of fashion and bridal. May says that when Ti� any did that, consumer interest de� nitely picked up, and he believes that, as a result, he’s seen a lot of smaller companies springing up in yellow diamond bridal.

Be Prepared with Pinks“For us, yellow and pink are both popular,” says Ahluwalia, “but you should see how consumers love the pinks, especially when done in a unique collection. Ahluwalia designs exclusive rings for her Stars of Africa by Royal Asscher Collection, featuring � oating pink diamonds encased in a � uid-� lled sapphire dome.

Arizona retailer Chris Boillot, co-owner of Michael’s Creative Jewellery in Phoenix and Scottsdale, says, “When showing a customer coloured diamonds, I show them pinks � rst.” Why? “Because almost every store has yellow or black diamonds. So I try to show them something right away that maybe they’ve never seen before. I also like to show them some greens, even though they can get pricy – because they’re so rare and beautiful.”

Neda Benham: 18k rose gold ring with 3.80-carat emerald-shaped, rough-cut pink diamond; accented with .88tcw rounds; chosen as The 2011 Spectrum Award winner of “Manufacturing Honors,” entered in Bridal Wear category; photo courtesy of AGTA; photography by Robert and Orasa Weldon.

By Toronto-based designer Reena Ahluwalia for Diaco Inc:

Platinum/18k gold ring, featuring cushion-cut 4-carat yellow

diamond center stone and 2.21 carats colorless diamonds.


coloureddiamonds


Black, White — and Grey, TooNevertheless, Boillot admits that the more a� ordable and available black diamond pieces are very popular. “For the past three years, jewellery in the black-and-white diamond combination has been selling great. Women like the contrast of the black and white melee looks. Right-hand rings are the number-one buy, followed by pendants, usually in a $1,000 to $2,000 range for self-purchase.”

Black/white melee jewellery seems to be somewhere at the top of a coloured diamond fashion trend list, but large black diamond centres are starting to show strength, too. For Mystique Fine Jewellery Designs in Alexandria, Virginia, sales of engagement rings with checkerboard-cut black and grey diamonds are what her customers get excited over. “Especially younger brides-to-be who don’t want to see their special ring on everyone else.”

“� e whole black/white/grey look has been trending in fashion," says Helena Krodel of the Jewelry Information Center. “But black and white together is not just trend – it’s timeless, too.” Subsequent to its popularity, many contemporary designers are responding with interesting looks using these more neutral coloured diamonds. In the American Gem Trade Association’s annual Spectrum Awards for 2011, a palladium cu� by Todd Reed with an aquamarine centre, sprinkled with 6.90 carats of grey diamonds, won “Best in Show.” Adam Graham, marketing director of AGTA, says, “� e piece really impressed our judges, who felt that, going forward, from a fashion standpoint, everything about the piece shows important trends and will ultimately have vast mainstream appeal.”

Rose Cuts, Roughs, and SlicesIn addition to the varied shades of natural coloured diamonds that are capturing consumer fancy, so, too, are the various non-traditional cuts: particularly rose cuts, slices, and roughs. Why now, as opposed to a decade earlier? “Over the past ten years or so, many techniques have been developed for cutting, especially for the smaller natural color diamonds,” says NCDIA’s May. “Before lasers, rose cuts and slices were impossible to cut. Also, with the new polishing techniques, the stones won’t shatter.” He adds that there is demand for coloured diamond melee now, he says, “and designers, excited by the newness, are doing more playful things with them.”

Of course, at the end of the day, consumers are excited by the newness. As Melissa Oster sees it, “As they slowly emerge from the di� cult economy, we’re seeing that they are clearly becoming braver. Part of the new reality is that they no longer want to invest in mass-oriented, mass-produced jewellery. And when they choose natural coloured diamond pieces, that’s a good � rst step in assuring they’ll get more special, more one-of-a-kind. And it’s our responsibility as retailers to be prepared to meet that demand.” [CJ]

Katie Diamond: “Layla” necklace in 14k gold with black diamond slice;

Ashleigh Branstetter: 18k white gold earrings, featuring mossy-green diamond slices (11.23 tcw), white diamond slices (2.32 ctcw) and chalcedony briolettes (40.61tcw).



The most important event in every lady’s life is the day she decides to get married, according to wedding band manufacturer Victor Petrovski. “Brides always want their rings immediately, so we can’t

be late. We’re always on deadline with an order,” says Petrovski, president and co-owner of Midas Jewelry.

Midas manufactures thousands of wedding bands annually, and each one is made to order. Everything is done in-house, starting with the gold bars. From there, Midas mixes its own alloys and makes the raw tubing that is later milled and produced into bands. Midas’s original designs are created mainly by Tom Petrovski, co-owner of Midas.

“Ideas just come to me in the middle of the night – like a writer who jots down notes,” he says. “Several companies mimic my designs, something I find flattering,” says Tom.

Victor Petrovski describes Midas (named for the King of Greek mythology, who turned everything he touched to gold) as a family business. The company has seven factory employees, including a stone-setter, and two more workers at a downtown Toronto distribution and sales office. He jokes he’s the janitor and makes the coffee.

The Petrovski brothers started the company in Toronto in 1988. Neither owner had a background in the jewellery industry. They learned the business, on their own, the hard and expensive way, according to Victor Petrovski. The Petrovskis were initially attracted to the field because it is “clean” and they wanted to be involved in something creative that gave pleasure. In 1995, when commercial rents shot up in Toronto, Midas’s manufacturing arm moved to Mississauga. Since then, the company has occupied a 4,000-square-foot factory, outfitted with over $1-million worth of heavy equipment.

The Golden TouchMidas Jewelry is about a lot

more than just a band of gold.

By Donna Jean MacKinnnon

054-056.CJ_Company.indd 54 12/16/10 2:59:07 PM

companyprofile


Before entering the Canadian market, Midas shipped only to the U.S. – New York and Los Angeles. When they set up shop, over 20 years ago, the Canadian dollar was low. Therefore, it was economical for American retailers to buy from a Canadian source. When the Petrovskis launched Midas, they manufactured a wide range of jewellery, including bracelets. With changing trends in the jewellery industry, the Petrovskis decided to concentrate on the wedding band market – a niche that has served them well. Midas is a now the number-one wedding band wholesaler in Canada.

“Everyone needs a wedding band – even if it’s made of steel – no matter what country or religion,” Victor Petrovski says.

The Petrovskis believe their success is due to their cutting-edge production methods and investment in research, product development and computerized machinery. All these factors have added up to superior products, according to Petrovski. Midas’s computerized set-up is specifically geared to making wedding bands. For example, at Midas, gold tubing is made by a computerized machine. This is an entirely different process than the traditional lost wax method. The machine-cast tubing is very malleable and porosity-free, while wax-casting results in porous imperfections that prevent gold from shining as brilliantly as it could. The metal that comes off Midas’s assembly line is already shiny before the stones are set, according to Petrovski. He adds during the computerized process, white gold doesn’t crack when stretched, as sometimes happens during the lost wax method.

“There’s not a dozen of these machines in Canada. We have focused on

heavy machinery since the early 1990s,” Petrovski says. Because Midas is in the wedding band business, the company buys a lot of gold. It requires 1,000 grams of gold to manufacture 500 grams of finished product – a loss of 50 per cent.

“So now we are part owners in a company that refines gold. We send the scrap back to them and this decreases our loss. This is a saving we can pass on to the customer,” Victor says.

Midas also invested in an automated machine that monitors and analyses gold quality and content in the rings the company manufactures.

As far as competition goes, Victor is not impressed with his competitors’ end product. He believes that many people order blanks from a manufacturer and then put their own trademark on them. “We’re the primary source from start to finish, so we have quality control at each step. This is a big plus. Also, we are owners and operate our own machinery, so our rings do not go through three or four outside people. At each step of the manufacturing process, we check again and again to ensure a high-quality product. In fact, we live quality day and night.”

Because Midas specializes in the bridal sector, demographically, it deals with younger adults. The young brides-to-be like to email pictures of what they want in a wedding ring. Although designs vary, from region-to-region, 98 per cent of Midas customers want a white gold band (14, 18 or 19-karat), set with diamonds.

“With changing trends in the jewellery industry, the Petrovskis

decided to concentrate on the wedding band market – a niche that

has served them well. Midas is a now the number-one wedding

band wholesaler in Canada.”



companyprofile

Both in Canada and the U.S., solitaire engagement rings are out. The current fashion is for a narrow band with a centre diamond and small stones around it, and more diamonds running along a white gold shank, according to Victor.

Midas makes thousands of rings a year and receives no more than ten orders for a sapphire in any given year.

“We tried pink gold. Maybe a dozen sold, along with a few yellow gold rings to people in rural areas,” Victor says. “Brides are traditional and conservative. They want what everyone else has.”

For the record, Midas ships 50 per cent of its output to the U.S., where Victor says men will wear a diamond. “U.S. customers tend to like more bling and big flashy stones than Canadians.”

The Petrovskis have noted that brooches, bracelets and big necklaces are no longer big sellers. Young women are content with a pair of stud earrings, a watch and maybe a simple tennis bracelet. This means they have more money to spend on the most important jewellery in their lives: their engagement and wedding rings.

“Today it’s the bridal market that keeps the industry going,” says Victor, who laughs when asked if he thinks cameos will ever come back into fashion. Recently Midas added 10k white gold bands to their assortment. “We didn’t make 10k, but gold has doubled in price in the past five years, so we decided to manufacture 10k rings. It’s an economical reality that many people, especially in the U.S., don’t have the money they used to have for luxuries,” Victor says.

Midas is making a white metal alloy that is suitable for people with a nickel allergy. The company uses palladium, an extremely white precious metal that is non-allergenic. (Palladium is often used for dental alloys.) Victor explains that white gold bands have nickel and everyone has some degree of intolerance to nickel; some have a serious allergy to it. Midas, makes a 14k alloy with palladium, as well as 18k and 19k alloys. Midas also works with 95 per cent palladium. At this level, the metal is so soft, it requires a special hardener.

The Petrovskis rarely go to trade shows. Midas woos customers with

catalogs, mailers, advertising and on its web site. Business also comes from referrals. The company’s catalog, its main marketing tool, features 650 bands, but in reality, Midas has over 1,000 different designs to choose from.

“We don’t warehouse any stock and we don’t have salesmen, so these are other savings that allow us to offer customers a better price,” Victor says.

When custom orders are complete, they are shipped or picked up at the Toronto office at 27 Queen St. E. in Toronto, where there are samples on display for the trade. As for customer service, Midas guarantees delivery within two weeks, everywhere including L.A., New York, Miami and Detroit.

“We always provide quick service because we have to keep our brides happy,” Victor says.

The Petrovskis, who describe themselves as “hands-on” managers, actually go out and visit customers, and Victor prides himself in being available on his mobile phone any time of day.

Tom Petrovski offers some sales advice for Canadian retailers. “In Canada, many jewellery stores concentrate on engagement rings and forget about the wedding bands. Jewellers could increase their bridal business by selling two additional rings instead of only an engagement ring,” he says.

The Petrovskis also believe each merchant should work on establishing long-term customers, so these clients will send their friends and children back to his store when they want something special.

In January, Midas launched a new website (midasjewelryinc.ca), which allows the wholesale customer to view thousands of products. The site will feature a computer program that instantly generates an online price, for a ring (based on the price of gold), while the retailer stands at his counter with a customer. The new site also enables consumers to log on and see 30 or 40 ring designs.

“We’re not cutting out the retailer. The site directs customers to their nearest jeweller,” Victor says. [CJ]


“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.”

-Ancient chinese Proverb

Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed

For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance

canada has served as a source of support and

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JEWVIG May Ad 042710F.indd 1 4/27/10 3:44:16 PM


cjJuneJuly10_JVC_Ad.indd 1 12/15/10 12:49:23 PM


Tresor is a perfume, a wine and also a jewellery collection that symbolizes a fresh and contemporary approach to opulent luxuries. Puja Bordia, the creative spirit behind Tresor jewellery,

was born in the Pink city of Jaipur, India. Her family served as jewellers to the royal family of India’s Jaipur kingdom for 18 generations.

Bordia began her creative endeavors in fashion and design, receiving her Bachelor in Fine Arts degree in fashion design from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She was awarded Best Debut Designer in 2001. Upon graduation, Bordia pursued fashion design, working for some of America’s most recognized fashion houses, including Kenneth Cole, Bill Blass, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hil� ger. Within this circle of fashion, Bordia was constantly being complimented on her handmade jewellery. Ultimately, she le� her work to learn more about the gems and jewellery she so loved. Eventually she earned her Graduate Degree from the Gemological Institute of America, where she gained a deep knowledge of diamond grading, gemstones and welding. She has since traveled the world, attending jewellery shows in Milan, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, New York and other locales, seeking the most exquisite gems for the Tresor Collection. Making her home in New Jersey with her husband and four-year old son, Puja speaks to Canadian Jeweller exclusively about the Tresor collections, now numbering seven di� erent groups.

CJ: I understand you were making simple jewellery designs as a very young child. Can you remember your � rst creation and the inspiration behind it?

Puja Bordia is passionate for Tresor.BY BONNIE SIEGLER

On theHuntPuja Bordia.

Trésor “Soie” necklace in 18k white gold.

Trésor "Logo" cuff in 18k yellow gold with diamonds.

058-061.CJ_Designer.indd 58 12/16/10 2:51:31 PM

designerprofile

PB: I was about seven years old when I designed my very first turquoise ball ring. I told my dad what I wanted, and how I wanted it and then got my very first piece made. I loved and enjoyed that ring a lot. Stone colours and different shapes have always been my inspiration.

CJ: How do you think your extensive fashion background has helped you further your jewellery design career?

PB: Fashion and jewellery go hand in hand. Fashion dictates what colours will be popular. Having the knowledge of all the upcoming fashion forecasts really helps me picking my colours and stones for my next collection. I think designing fashion and designing jewellery only compliment each other. Jewellery is like icing on the fashion cake.

CJ: Working for such famous designers, including Lauren, which is a more conservative line, and Kenneth Cole, a sophisticated, chic designer, how would you say each one inspired your future designs, and how have you integrated each into your collections?

PB: Yes, all the designers I have worked with had different design aesthetics and I learned there is a huge clientele for all kinds of styles. I have incorporated my experience by making various collections that are all classic, yet chic and contemporary at the same time, giving the wearer the option from everyday luxury to one-of-a-kind couture pieces.

CJ: You are sold at Gallery Gemma in Alton, Ont., Do you plan on expanding your Canadian business in the coming years?

PB: Yes, we are planning to expand and branch out in the Canadian market. We are planning to do JCK Toronto this year, where we’ll be bringing the brand in front of thousands of Canadian retailers. I don’t think there is a major difference between Canadian consumers and the rest of the world, as long as you are providing a good brand. At the moment, we have a high-end Canadian retailer who has a couple of retail locations across Canada interested in the line. We are looking forward to closing that deal.

CJ: Will you be showcasing a different collection for Canadian retailers?

PB: We will be launching the Uomo Collection of men’s cufflinks line in mid 2011. I noticed that Canadians do prefer more of a softer colour palette with diamond pieces and of course, simple and dainty pendants. I’m definitely looking forward to making our big move to Canadian markets.

CJ: Do you like to work in gold or silver, or both?

PB: I love working in both metals, but I must agree that I am more partial to 18k gold. I just simply love the gold, its aura and the different colours it comes in these days. It’s simply universal.

Trésor “Dazzle” ring in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and diamond.

Trésor “Dazzle” bracelet in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and diamonds.

“We are planning to do JCK Toronto this year,

where we’ll be bringing the brand in front of

thousands of Canadian retailers.”

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J a n u a r y / F e B r u a r y 2 0 1 1 CJ 59


designerprofile

CJ: You are partial to using colourful gemstones. Which ones do you prefer, and what do you think the qualities of each represent in order to make your designs unique?

PB: I love colourful gemstones. Multicolour tourmaline, morganite and aquamarine are particular favorites. Our Dazzle Collection has some gorgeous one-of-a-kind couture pieces in multicolour tourmaline. Our favorite and best seller is multicolour tourmaline bracelets and cuffs. These are the key pieces that made us stand out in front of many high-end key retailers. I just love the soft colours, luminosity and scintillating beauty.

CJ: What is the feedback you are receiving from the places that carry your designs and from the general public?

PB: We are getting extremely positive responses from all our retailers and their customers, both to our 18k as well as silver line. I believe designing beautiful jewellery is just the beginning; the most exciting part is receiving the positive compliments from our customers.

CJ: Usually, when accessories or fashion are seen on celebrities, the line becomes more popular instantly. Have any celebrities worn your pieces? If so, which ones?

PB: Recently Katy Perry wore our Tanzanite and diamond stud earrings at the MTV Europe Music Awards at La Caja, Magica, in Spain, and also at the launch of her perfume in New York. Also Rose McGowan wore

our interchangeable tsavorite and turquoise earrings to The Artist’s Museum Happening in Los Angeles.

CJ: How do you bring your rich heritage in jewellery making into your unique designs?

PB: Being a 19th generation jeweller, the passion of colourful gems and jewellery runs in my veins. I have a great eye to choose just the finest quality gemstones for my various collections. I travel across the world with my dad to source the finest quality rough, unique and fine gemstones which are the key part of my creations.

CJ: You have been with the Tresor collection for two years. How have you seen jewellery trends evolve and disappear within this short period of time?

PB: Yes, trends do come and go but there are a few trends that are classic and stay forever. Big, bold, colourful statement pieces, layered and bib necklaces, huge cocktail rings, bug cuffs, jewellery in mixed metals, personalized jewellery are all the few trends for this season. Long station necklaces, big chandelier earrings, blackened sterling silver jewellery are some of the trends that are making their way out.

CJ: Why did you put the name “Tresor” to your designs?

PB: Tresor means something precious. The pieces are more than just pieces of jewellery; they are an ensemble of art and imagination. [CJ]

Trésor “Interchangeable” earring with tsavorite pave top and labradorite briolette in 18k gold.

Trésor “Fin” earrings in 18k yellow gold with watermelon tourmaline.

“Being a 19th generation

jeweller, the

passion of colourful gems

and jewellery runs

in my veins.”

60 CJ J a n u a r y / F e B r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m


EXCELLENCE iNdesignAward Ceremony & Reception

The Annual

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contactOlivier Felicio at [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contactMelanie Seth at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 X 6114.

Entry deadline is June 3rd, 2011, 5 p.m.

Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 11/24/10 4:04 PM Page 1


It’s that time of year again. The American Gem Trade Association celebrated a remarkable 27 years of the Spectrum Awards last fall in New York. Judges for the 2011 competition included a style editor of

Elite Traveler Magazine; Tanya Dukes, co-owner of Greenwich Jewelers; Jennifer Gandia, owner of Lehrer Designs; Glenn Lehrer, owner of Mallary Marks Ltd.; and owner of Rotenier Ltd., Robin Rotenier. Take a peek at the winners in each category.

Blue Ribbons

Winners of the 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards.

Compiled By lihn pham

Best of ShowAlso the Business/Day Wear winner

Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc.

Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct.

aquamarine accented with grey diamonds

(6.90 ctw.) and white diamonds (2.20 ctw.).

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spectrumawards

Mark Lauer, Mark Michael Designs

18k yellow gold cufflinks featuring jasper agate

and lapis lazuli composite accented with 2mm

spessartite garnets and sapphires.

1st Place Men's Wear

1st Place Classical

Fashion Forward

Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers

18k white and yellow gold earrings featuring

lemon chrysoprase (22.0 ctw.) accented with

garnets (2.38 ctw.).

Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Designs

Platinum and 18k yellow gold necklace

featuring yellow sapphires (68.77 ctw.), blue

sapphires (24.34 ctw.), red spinels (24.20

ctw.) and diamonds (22.38 ctw.).

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Martin Key, Martin Key Co.

22k yellow gold "Frame" ring featuring a 1.50 ct.

blue tourmaline accented with four Mexican fire

opal baguettes (1.82 ctw.)

Best Use of Platinum & Colour

Judy Evans, Omi Gems, Inc.

Platinum “Princess of ratnapura” bracelet featuring nine

round sapphires (14.0 ctw.) and round diamonds (8.48 ctw.).

Best Use of Colour

1st Place Evening WearCynthia Renee Zava, Cynthia Renee, Inc.

Palladium necklace featuring a suite

of green tourmalines (75.89 ctw.).

062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 64 12/16/10 2:42:34 PM


spectrumawards

Best Use of PearlsLlyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design

Sculpture titled “Who are you” featuring two-tone

gold and silver with freshwater baroque pearls,

South Sea keshi pearls, akoya seed pearls,

demantoid garnets (0.25 ctw.), 0.20 ct. ruby and

cognac diamonds (0.03ctw.) on a crystal quartz

base (242 ctw.).

1st Place Bridal Wear

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.

Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring featuring

a 5.55 ct. oval tsavorite garnet accented

with fancy yellow diamonds (.71 ctw.).

Editor’s ChoiceKatey Brunini, K. Brunini Jewels

18k rose gold and silver ring featuring white

opal accented with blue sapphires (3.26 ctw.),

diamonds (0.13 ctw.) and rubies (0.06 ctw.).

062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 65 12/16/10 1:51:26 PM


Staying on top of issues that impact Canadian small business owners is in Intuit Canada’s DNA. We not only endeavour to understand the variety of pain-points facing entrepreneurs, but

we are committed to providing tools and knowledge that address those issues to the benefit of small business owners. A case in point is the Harmonized Sales Tax (HST). Long before it became a top-of-mind issue, Intuit began watching HST and how it affected the lifeblood of the Canadian economy: small business owners.

Twice this year, Intuit polled small business owners on how they were coping with the tax. In late June, just days before the HST deadline, we learned that a startling 54 per cent of respondents did not feel ready to

comply with the new tax and were worried about its perceived negative business consequences, such as inducing customer price sensitivity or driving customers away altogether.

Four months later, and with tax season drawing closer, Intuit teamed with the Certified General Accountants of Ontario (CGA Ontario) to get a read on whether entrepreneurs were flourishing or floundering. The results confirmed what we’ve always known: small business owners are resilient and resourceful. Our survey revealed that 90 per cent of those polled are confident in their ability to keep business transactions compliant with HST, which represents nearly a 40 per cent leap from late June.

For small businesses: So far, so good.

The HST update By Chris Davey

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Small business owners are highly adaptable, using all the tools and resources at their disposal to get the job done. In fact, of those who were prepared on or before the HST deadline, 67 per cent said they used financial management software, such as QuickBooks, and more than half (55 percent) said they conferred with an accounting professional for assistance. All of these tactics combined seem to have contributed to a general state of preparedness, not to mention a strong degree of confidence.

What else contributed to this transition to preparedness? Time and government publications appear to have played a big role in helping many get over the hump. More than one-third (34 per cent) said they spent one to three months getting everything in order, and 39 per cent consulted government or business publications for information on how to properly make the transition.

Concerns Mount As Tax Deadlines ApproachResults of the recent joint survey show that while some concerns have subsided, new anxieties about accurately filing year-end taxes have cropped up. Indeed, 40 per cent of respondents said they were very or somewhat concerned about filing incorrectly and facing fines, which is to say that owners are confident in managing the HST transition, but filing taxes under this new regime for the first time is causing some trepidation. Understandably so, since failing to collect the proper amount of HST can put entrepreneurs on the hook for the difference.

So, What To Do Now?It is important for small business owners to know that tools and resources are available to help with financial management. While Intuit has always maintained that when it comes to HST, we’ve got the backs of small businesses owners, there are other organizations

such as CGA Ontario and the Canadian Federation of Independent Business (CFIB) that provide additional support. Earlier this year, the CFIB produced a checklist to help small business owners maintain financial health of their company through the HST transition. It included everything from considering how HST will affect cash flow and pointers on training staff on HST compliancy. Similarly, CGA Ontario offers a number of resources to help address business issues.

Managing Finances Small business owners work long hours, and the prospect of spending even more time managing the books and wondering if they’re accurate is not why people choose to start a small business. With the right tools and advice, businesses can save time and money (HST is no exception), while concentrating on doing more of what they love. Filing with HST could prove to be easier than you think. [CJ]

financefeature

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J A N u A r y / F e b r u A r y 2 0 1 1 CJ 67

Break and enter and night time theft is on the rise in this country and we have a solution!

We can secure your location from break and enter and help with your insurance needs! We work with brokers across the country!

Install SmokeCloak® and within seconds of a break-in, the protected area is fi lled with an impenetrable cloud of fog. This provides an effective barrier and forces the intruders to leave the premises.

What are you waiting for? Call for a Quote! [email protected] www.smokecloak.ca

Smokecloak Instant Protection for Jewellers

To locate a CGA, businesses can reference CGA Ontario’s accountant referral service at: www.cga-ontario.orgAdditional HST resources include: • CGA Ontario, HST information booklet:

http://www.cga-ontario.org/assets/file/HST.pdf.• Ontario Chamber of Commerce and Smart Taxation Alliance:

www.taxharmonization.on.ca.• Ontario Ministry of Revenue: http://www.rev.gov.on.ca/en/.• Ontario HST Information line: 1-800-337-7222• Canada Revenue Agency: 1-800-959-5525• CFIB HST Checklist:

http://www.cfib-fcei.ca/cfib-documents/DIN0739.pdf

Chris Davey is a senior marketing manager in Intuit Canada’s Accounting Professionals Division.

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Get TogetherBy John Lamont, director of crime Prevention, Jvc

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jvccolumn


JVC’s mandate is to educate industry on crime prevention. We are now entering the second decade of JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. One of our biggest frustrations in the past 10 years is convincing YOU that crime can happen to YOU! John Lamont has been our director of Crime Prevention from the very beginning. As you will read, he shares in this frustration.

- Phyllis Richard, executive director, JVC

In Burlington, Ont., a jewellery vendor was recently beaten as he left his motel room, and his line of merchandise was stolen. Was he followed and watched prior to this robbery? No doubt.

In Vancouver, B.C., a jewellery retailer was robbed by four armed men. Shots were fired inside the store and again outside the mall. Did the robbers case other jewellers before picking on this particular store? No doubt.

If you are a jewellery retailer, manufacturer, wholesaler or even a repair house, you are being watched every day you are open for business and sometimes even when you are closed. A large number of the people watching you have criminal intentions. If you feel this only happens to other people, you are naive. It can happen to anyone, anywhere.

Recently, the York Regional Police conducted a large investigation on an organized criminal gang that was targeting jewellery suppliers. One of the detectives says police conducted surveillance on a well-organized gang on a daily basis, and followed these criminals into the downtown Toronto area where these individuals spent several hours every day for months, watching suppliers come and go from an office building. This building contains many jewellery supply businesses.

These criminals also followed the suppliers while they visited many customers throughout the city. York Regional Police subsequently arrested members of this group.

Within months of the arrests, another group struck at a similar office building in the city and pepper-sprayed a supplier before stealing his line of merchandise. That case is still under investigation, but with Police budgets being cut and the increase in crime, police resources are stretched to the limit.

Jewellery retailers are being targeted daily by criminals with the intent to commit snatch-and-grab and and break-and-enter robberies. What can jewellers do to protect themselves? One of the most important things a jeweller should have is insurance. The jewellery industry can be very

competitive, but not when it comes to crime prevention. We should all be members of the same team.

There are many situations when criminal activity is committed by opportunity thieves. These are incidents that take place when a thief sees an opportunity such as when a ring is left carelessly on a showcase, and he takes advantage of that opportunity by grabbing the ring and running. However, the vast majority of the bigger crimes are well planned, as indicated above by the York Regional Police. Jewellers are watched (cased) before the criminal strikes.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has found there has been a great deal of success in preventing theft and in the apprehension of criminals by NETWORKING: the sharing of information and suspicious activity.

JVC has set up a large network of members throughout Canada, which has been very successful in spreading criminal information, but in order to develop a closer relationship with local police, it is also important to have a network of local jewellers. It is important that the local police are part of the network.

Recently, the local police contacted JVC and provided a picture of two criminals who had targeted a local jeweller and stolen a large, very valuable ring. At the request of the police, JVC

distributed the pictures to its network. Almost immediately, jewellers throughout the area started reporting that these men had been in their locations. Within a day of the alert, the police received a call from a local jeweller who told police these two men had just been in his store. As a result of receiving this information from the JVC network, they were not only very cautious in dealing with these two men, but also obtained the license number of their car, which they turned over to police. This information resulted in the arrest of these two men and to the identification of a major jewellery fencing ring. This networking not only prevented losses but resulted in arrests.

Local area networks are very strong and well-supported south of the border. Jewelers Security Alliance in the U.S., along with Jewelers Mutual Insurance, has produced a booklet on setting up a local area network. JVC will work to assist jewellers in Canada to set up their own local networks. If you are in any area of the jewellery business, it is very important that you belong to a network, which can help you protect your staff and assets. Contact JVC today and obtain information and assistance on setting up your own local area network.

Knowledge can provide power and protection. IT’S UP TO YOU. [CJ}

“Jewellery retailers are being

targeted daily by criminals with

the intent to commit snatch-and-

grab and and break-and-enter

robberies. What can jewellers do

to protect themselves?”

068-069.CJ_JVC.indd 69 12/16/10 2:15:05 PM

What’s in a Name?How branding creates cachet – and a premium price.

By Duncan Parker

T he branding of the world is under way; we see countries and cities hiring marketers to help develop brands for things that we don’t usually think of as being a brand. The brands that are Gaga

or Bieber have, I’m sure, been given serious consideration. The brand of Toronto, Vancouver, London or Montreal is real and is likely set out in planning documents.

The name of an item is held in our memories, and its visual identity is maintained to the market. Just as young Mr. Bieber will have difficulty shedding his hairstyle, even if he wants to, and Gaga must keep developing ever more interesting personas, it is the identity of each brand to have a certain image.

In the jewellery world, the identity of a brand has been under discussion for years. How is a brand built for a thing so small as a ring or earrings, or even a diamond? The watch industry has been successful. A Rolex can be spotted from across a crowded room.

The packaging for jewellery is a very important platform for conveying brand identity. Who can miss the distinctive blue box of Tiffany or the red box of Cartier? Most men are proud to walk down the street

with a bag from a notable jeweller (everyone will exclaim that here is a connected and sensitive man, buying something of beauty for a loved one). Sadly, this outward packaging is often concealed due to fear of theft, fear of discovery of a surprise gift, but the brand is important to the buyer and the recipient.

How, then, does the brand convey itself once the box is opened, and the jewel is being worn? The wearer is still very proud and pleased to have a beautiful jewel, but does it say “I found this at…”, or “ This is a design by…”. Some jewellers are great at showcasing their particular style or designs, or the work of a particular designer.

Many jewellers feature their designers on their web sites, and the work of those designers will be given prominent space in showcases. The designer becomes a brand within a brand. Elsa Peretti is synonymous with Tiffany, and Peretti designs are distinctive enough to be identified by a casual observer. Some designers are the brands themselves; JAR, of Paris, has such distinctive style that there is little mistaking his work.

The Tiffany “Blue Box” is just as much a part of the

brand as the jewellery.

70 CJ J a N u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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facevalue


The new direction is to create a jewellery brand by including the name on its surface. Big names in jewellery have started placing the name on the outside as a label. Bulgari is a name we often see on the outside of jewellery, but we are increasingly seeing names like Tiffany, Cartier, Fred, and other major names integrated as part of the outward visible design of the jewellery.

Fashion and accessory design houses — companies that have excelled in marketing their non-jewellery brands — are embarking on the journey of jewellery marketing. They are coming to jewellery from the outside, and come with no preconceived notions of how to market these items. Montblanc is known for pens, Louis Vuitton is known for travel; they are known worldwide, and almost everyone would recognize their logos and names. They already make things that we carry around all day, why not a ring or bracelet, too?

The jewellery industry doesn’t price goods the same way as the fashion industry. I recently appraised a Louis Vuitton-branded diamond ring. The only real way to appraise a recognizable, signed item is to contact the producer, and ask what the price would be for another. I called the office of the company, and the store where it was sold, and it was interesting to find that this ring, with a sizable (over two-carat) diamond, was sold at a price that was consistent for every ring of that model all around the world. The price of a specific Vuitton purse is a price, and Vuitton rings are priced the same way. There was no dickering about the diamond weight, a few points up or down was of no consequence, the clarity and colour were of a minimum grade, but outside of that, the price was not affected by a clarity or colour grade. The ring was simply a price. This also applies to other jewellers too, of course, but not often with major diamonds.

Watches are similarly priced. An identifiable Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel or Montblanc item that proclaims its name is serious branding, with a clearly established price and a known quality. If you want to buy it, there’s a price.

A little while ago, I was asked to value an item designed and made by a European goldsmith and bearing a signature of a major world leader. The designer/goldsmith was able to tell me what the cost to reproduce the item would have been, but we did have some difficulty establishing what the value and reproducibility of a world leader’s autograph would be.

The jewel was mounted on a board that was actually signed by this respected leader. The autograph of an elderly and renowned leader was only one of the brands associated with the jewel. The item was also signed by the internationally-known designer, and was donated to an international foundation bearing the name of another international leader. Three brands in one item!

A well-marketed brand captivates the imagination of the consumer. If you are competing purely for price, with no brand differentiation, there is one place for you in the industry. If you have a brand, it’s your job to make the buyers want it. There is no competing with brand; ideally, no one else should have that brand in your market.

Cartier is in the process of taking over the distribution of its brand and removing it from most licensed vendors. This creates a stronger brand value; you can only get it from one place, making it harder to get and therefore more valuable in the mind of the consumer.

DeBeers used to market diamonds around the world. When was the last time you saw one of their general “Diamonds Are Forever” ads? DeBeers now focuses on its own brand, and lets every other diamond brand do its own marketing.

In this market, it is clear that we all need to differentiate our businesses from the next. Developing a brand allows us to do this.

As consumers, we all want to feel special and that, when we shop, we have purchased something unique. Part of the brand’s cachet is the ability to build this sense of the exceptional, something distinct from the usual. Part of this relates the goods, but an important part is the presentation. Packaging, brochures, atmosphere, ambience, are all part of the brand. Personality is also part of the brand. Many brands have a face. Most were started by someone: a founder. This may be the individual who is most closely associated with the idea, the design, the product, the adventure of discovery or the transaction at hand.

Consumers will feel attached to a brand because of a personal connection they develop; they have become part of a select community, and can purchase with the confidence that they made the right decision to buy something and to work with a brand. This affiliation will bring them back again and again. The successful brand is strong, and encompasses the whole product as a complete package. [CJ]

“How, then, does the brand convey itself once the box

is opened, and the jewel is being worn?”

070-071.CJ_FaceValue.indd 71 12/16/10 2:17:19 PM


John de Jong Celebrates 15 yearsNovember 30, 2010.

Top to bottom, left to right: John de Jong, designer of JdJ Jewellery + Natalie Castillo, JdJ Jewellery; Madeleine Pollard, JdJ Jewellery + Ann de Jong (John’s mother); a model

wears the new collection; the venue at the Gardiner Museum.

PhotograPhy by Patrick Jandak

072-73.CJ_Industry Buzz.indd 72 12/16/10 11:44:31 AM


industrybuzz

Iconic jeweller, retailer and designer (and former CJ cover feature) John de Jong celebrated his 15-year career with a lavish unveiling of his newest collection at the Gardiner Museum in Toronto. He also collaborated with Canadian fashion designer David Dixon – who is also celebrating the same milestone in his business – for an informal runway presentation consisting of models circling the room wearing Dixon’s creations and jewels from de Jong’s anniversary line. From all of us at Canadian Jeweller, congratulations to JdJ Jewellery and here’s to another 15 years!

Top to bottom, left to right: Matthew Meisner, graphic designer, Town Shoes + Crissi Giamos, director of PR, Town Shoes + Philip Sparks, fashion designer + Andrew

Sardone, writer; Suzanne Cohon, principal, ASC PR + J. Patrick Gibson, principal - jpg design, + Cawthra Burns, VP, marketing and brand development - CCI

Entertainmnt; Andrea Bolley, Artist.

072-73.CJ_Industry Buzz.indd 73 12/16/10 11:45:35 AM

showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected] or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected]


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072-079.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 74 12/16/10 1:31:25 PM

showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected] or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected]


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J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1

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CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

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sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

080 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101

Stuller 3 102

Midas Jewelry 4-5 103

JVC (Diamond Code) 6 104

Gee N’ Gee 7 105

Karat Imports 8 106

Metalsmiths Sterling 9 107

Jewellers Mutual 11 108

Crown Ring 13 109

GIA 15 110

Best Bargains 17 111

O’Neil Diamonds 19 112

Bulova 21 113

Image Fifth Ave 25 114

Rousseau 27 115

Nova 29 116

PH Design 33 117

Smart Jewelry Show 35 118

Lega Jewellery 37 119

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

Number of locations: ______________________

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________

Company Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________________

City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

2. Use this quick

Nova/Mirage 47 120

Malo 49 121

JVC 57 122

Smokecloak 43 123

Noble Gift 81 124

Pandora 83 125

Mirage 84 126

Metalsmiths Sterling 16 130

GIA 16 131

Nova Diamonds 16 132

Stuller 18 133

Crown Ring 18 134

PH Design 18 135

Pandora 20 136

Image Fifth Ave 20 137

Bulova 20 138

Midas Jewelry 20 139

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON

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To qualify, check circles:

FREE Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fi ll out form completely.


080.CJ_FaxBack.indd 80 12/16/10 3:16:17 PM

Noble Tools ad 12-2010 13/12/2010 15:37 Page 1


CJ.Jan11.Noble.indd 1 12/15/10 12:53:20 PM

lastword


I believe that one defines oneself by reinvention.

To not be like your parents. To not be like your friends.

To be yourself. To cut yourself out of stone.

The Concord C1 Big Date Radar clocks in the new year by redefining the way we tell time. The multi-level dial is like a city-scape, with elevated hour markers, recessed small-seconds track and a textured runway-style inner bezel. A perlé-finished inner dial and raised hands complete the 3D look. This ultra-modern time-scape is priced at $8,900.

AmericAn rock Singer Henry rollinS SAid:

“”

082.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 12/16/10 11:32:32 AM

YOUR COMBINATION OF MOMENTS IS A

UNIQUE CELEBRATION OF WHO YOU ARE.

FIND THE NEW MOMENTS AT PANDORA.NET

OR AT YOUR NEAREST PANDORA STORE.

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved

YOUR COMBINATION OF MOMENTS IS A

UNIQUE CELEBRATION OF WHO YOU ARE.

FIND THE NEW MOMENTS AT PANDORA.NET

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • •

CJ_Pandora_Feb2011.indd 1 12/7/2010 2:12:42 PM


CJ.Jan11_Pandora.indd 1 12/15/10 12:54:44 PM

BKR251

PRM294

PR774EM

PRM215

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


CJ.Jan11_Mirage.indd 1 12/15/10 12:56:31 PM

Canadian Jeweller January / February 2011 Issue

Documents

Transcript of Canadian Jeweller January / February 2011 Issue