Canadian Jeweller - August 2011 Issue

AUGUST 2011

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SCAN ME TO GOTO OUR WEBSITE

Flowing Beauty

f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y s i n c e 1 8 7 9

AUGUST 2011

SCAN ME TO GOTO OUR WEBSITETO OUR WEBSITE

f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y s i n c e 1 8 7 9

PLUS: JCK VEGAS ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

E. Pius and Moneca Kaufmann of Kaufmann de Suisse, Montreal, QC

PEARLSThe jewellery classic is making a comeback

READER’SCHOICECOVER!

63% of voters!

001.CJ_Cover FINAL05.indd 1 7/12/11 4:10:29 PM

24 Gold Group Ltd.Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the

bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in

the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,

and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.

And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always

keep you running smoothly. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call

800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the

bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in

the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,

and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.

And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always

keep you running smoothly. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call

800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

CJ_StullerDPS.indd 3 7/8/11 1:31:08 PM

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op AdvertisingFo

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621

www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all

precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back ProgramsIncentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 7/8/11 1:12:26 PM

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity

For More Information Contact:

Olivier Felicio1.888.358.8186 ext. 6107

Lucy Holden1.888.358.8186 ext. 6117

[email protected]

8 CJ A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

EstablishEd 1879 AUGUST 2011 • vol. 132, no. 5

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carlos Weigle Editor | [email protected] Jessica Uniac Editorial Assistant | [email protected]

irina lytchak Editoral Intern | [email protected]

Michael N. sinanan Art Director | [email protected] Jacqueline d’souza Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] leslie Witol Finance Administrator | [email protected]

Matthew Pompey Web Programmer | [email protected] Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

Marsha Miller Customer Service | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Kelechi Achonu, richmond iam, John lamont, irina lytchak, Duncan parker, Jeff prine, bonnie siegler

CMCAAUDITED

8 CJ J a n u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Check our Website forMonthly Specials!

Phone

Email: [email protected]

1.800.663.6472Fax 1.800.316.2999

www.karatimports.com

EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol besler Consulting Editor Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] Elena Viltovskaia Designer | [email protected]

stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | [email protected]

Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

Karolann Cassman

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson, bonnie siegler.

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AM008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 7/8/11 5:45:55 PM

A complementary approach

J e w e l e r s M u t u a l i s e x c l u s i v e ly e n d o r s e d b y t h e c a n a d i a n J e w e l l e r s a s s o c i at i o n

a n d e n c o u r a g e s pa rt i c i pat i o n i n t h e J e w e l e r s b o a r d o f t r a d e .

l e a r n w h y y o u s h o u l d J o i n J b t at w w w. J e w e l e r s b o a r d . c o M .

contact Jewelers Mutual today to learn more. | 800-558-6411 | www.JewelersMutual.ca

Jewelers Mutual and the canadian Jewellers assocation (cJa) are working together to promote vitality and security within the canadian jewellery industry. learn more about the products and services we’ve created for your business.

• Insurancepoliciescateredtoyourbusinessandcustomers

• Educationalcoursesonsecurityprocedures

• Consumeroutreachbrandingprograms

• Updatesonindustrylawsandregulations

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[FEATURES]40. Colour me sold

Inexpensive coloured gemstones are a great way to increase sales.

44. Flowing beauty For over 50 years Kaufmann de Suisse has set the bar high with amazing designs and top-quality service.

52. Pearls strike baCk Edgier designs and mixed materials are making a classic contemporary again.

60. make it mine Among the many trends that surfaced at JCK Vegas, one was evident: It’s time for customized, make-it-your own jewellery.

74. baCk in Fashion Ladies’ fashion watches are magic again at retail.

82. bright summer Join us at these amazing Canadian trade shows this August.

AUGUST 2011

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You picked our cover! As a matter of fact, 63 per cent of you chose our current cover over three other options. If you’d like to pick our next one, make sure to vote at canadianjeweller.com.

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 7/8/11 5:52:13 PM

J E W E L L E R T O D AY. S U P E R H E R O T O M O R R O W .

E X C L U S I V E L YE N D O R S E D B Y

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just mightsave the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,

visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.

800-558-6411 • [email protected]

*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.

P E R S O N A L J E W E L R Y I N S U R A N C E

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[DEPARTMENTS] AUGUST 2011

14. Letter from the editor

16. Product showcase

24. star watch

28. who’s news

32. the cJ interview

34. for the record

58. one steP ahead Ready Mounts celebrates 25 years of excellence in the jewellery industry.

7032

70. reaching his aPex Canadian designer Noam Carver makes an impact with his innovative men’s collection.

80. stoLen...and found While most police focus on jewellery thieves, the “fences” still go unpunished.

87. showcase/marketPLace

96. fax back

98. Last word

24

www.facebook.com/CJMag

TM

www.twitter.com/CJMag

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 7/8/11 5:52:31 PM

John’sWHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD

Western Canadian Jewellery ExpoAugust 12-14, 2011Booth #s 113, 115, 117, 312, 314, 316

#900-736 Granville St.Vancouver BC V6Z1G3

604-689-4190 ph604-689-4139 fx

[email protected]

EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTION IN CANADA THROUGH:

CJG Jewellery ShowAugust 2011, Toronto(for Canadian Jewellery Group members only)

Come see our new collection at either of these upcoming shows:

www.phillipgavriel.com

La Dolce Vita.Phillip Gavriel’s new collection is inspired by the “sweet life” Italian Style. Crafted in 18k Gold, Sterling Silver and Gemstones. Precious and Afforadable, Now and Forever.

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COVER THE PULSE OF TIME

Canadian Distributor: RODANIA CANADA INC.1255 University # 508Montreal, Qc., H3B 3V8

Swiss Made. www.discovercover.com

COVER IMPRESSIONS

Co 141 Steel/CeramicSwiss MadeSapphire CrystalInternational Warranty

Visit us at the Montreal Expo Prestige Jewellery show from the 28th – 30th of August. Booth # 619 – 623

Tel.: 514 842-9136Fax: 514 842-9137Toll Free: 1-877-Rodania (763-2642)[email protected]

For Details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 96

CJ_Rodania_Cover.indd 1 7/8/11 1:26:50 PM

15 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ

letterfromtheeditorletterfromtheeditor

Trade shows can be overwhelming, especially when you’re talking about one as big as JCK Vegas. It is virtually impossible to see it all. Even if you somehow manage to do so, what are you going to remember the next day? It is very hard to get noticed and, inevitably, many exhibitors get lost in the sea of booths.

Presentation is key, of course, and many companies draw the attention of the crowds by creating stunning displays. However, spending money on that is simply not enough. At the end of the day, we will remember the pieces that were truly beautiful, the people who had something interesting to say. Most of all, we will retain in our memory the � ashes of innovation, the brands that somehow pushed the limits, the creativity that makes attending an event such as JCK Vegas worthwhile.

Innovation is what drove E. Pius Kaufmann to design his own jewellery line instead of relying on other people’s vision (page 44). Or what keeps prompting the Myslicki family to build their own machinery, create their own designs (page 58).

We wanted to re� ect the inspiration we felt at JCK Vegas on these pages by showcasing new ways to use pearls (page 52), the latest in ladies’ fashion watches (page 74) or exciting designers such as Noam Carver (page 70). You will also see that in the pages of EVER, our stunning new jewellery consumer magazine coming this fall. We hope we can inspire you too to try a new idea, walk on the road less travelled. � e risks are high, I won’t deny it. � e rewards, however, can be memorable.

Carlos WeigleEditor

P.S.: � ank you to to the more than 2,000readers who voted for this issue’s cover...you are the best!

Four days toremember...

Photography by McKenzie James; Styling by Kelechi Achonu; Makeup by Liz Robertson

Canada’s fi rst premiumFashion Jewellery magazine

Great to take home

4 times per year

Have ever in-store to keepyour customers inspired

Yes, I would like to secure my20 copies at no charge formy store at the address below:

Fax to: 1-888-849-0155

Store name:

Address:

Phone:

Fax:

Email:

Contact name:

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CJ A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

productprofile

16

1. MIRAGE CREATIONS/NOVA

Stunning 18kt white gold fancy link bracelet. Bracelet is pave and bead set

with: 935 round diamonds weighing a total of 9.42ct and a total bracelet

weight of 47.7 grams measuring 18cm in length. Call Nova @ 416-868-6682

for more information. For details, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

2. ELLE JEwELRy COLLECTION

Introducing ELLE Jewelry’s own “Elusive” Collection of trend-setting glossy

gun black rhodium over sterling silver. Its designs feature a rich dark palette

inspired by “Egypt meets gypsy” silhouettes to achieve intense drama

along with delicate drops of garnet and white crystal briolettes for added

contrast. Make your statement with ELLE. For details, write 151 on the Free

Info Card on page 96.

3. REAdy MOuNTS INC.

At Ready Mounts we are focusing on offering a variety of products and

services to help save you time and money. We offer full CAD services,

including milling and growing of waxes. Also currently stocking bracelet

mounts in classic styles, as well as ring mounts, semi-mounts and finished

goods. For details, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

4. JOhNS whOLESALE

Sterling silver and leather key holder from the Bello E Italiano line. Gun

metal finish. Distributed by John’s Wholesale Jewelry. For details, write 153

on the Free Info Card on page 96.

1

43

2

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BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELEUnique Birthstone Collection for babies andyoung girls with superior quality productsthat are durable, attractive and safe. Lifetimewarranty on gold jewels.

3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC . Canada . G1E 1V8 . 418.660.2909 . 1.888.660.3292

USA Patent 6158243 . CA Patent 2206353 . FR Patent 9807224

bfl y.ca

BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELEUnique Birthstone Collection for babies andyoung girls with superior quality products

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo, August 2-4

JCK Toronto, August 7-9

Expo Prestige, August 28-30

Upcoming Shows

Booth: 520

Booth: 827

Booth: 410

PubCJ_JUNE(FullPage).indd 1 2011-06-23 14:17:27

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productprofile

1. BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELE

Unique Birthstone Collection for babies and young girls with superior

quality products that are durable, attractive and safe. All our gold jewels

are handmade in Canada. Lifetime warranty on gold jewels. For more

information write 154 on page 96.

2. CaRLO BIagI JEwELRY

Carlo Biagi KIDZ Collection consists of hand crafted jewelry that resembles

the original Carlo Biagi Bead Bracelet concept. These smaller beads

range in a variety of colorful designs such as flowers, animals and hearts

appealing to children. Kids can now share the fun of creating and designing

their own personalized bead bracelet. For details, write 155 on the Free Info

Card on page 96.

4. ENDLEss POssIBILITIEs

With new bridal componentry from Stuller, create the exact bridal style your

customers want. Combine a shank and head from our complete assortment

of options and receive the highest quality manufactured bridal components

every time. To view more options, visit us online at stuller.com. For details,

write 157 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

1

4

3

2

3. FERI TORONTO aLmas

From pen to creation, the FERI Toronto Almas had only one purpose and

that was to take on the best and the most flamboyant in the world and

simply overpower with its beauty, ostentatiousness and elegance. For

details, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 96.


John’sWHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD

Bello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoBello e Italiano

E x c l u s i v e l y a t

1-877-80-JOHNSwww.johnswholesale.ca

l e a t h e r & s t e r l i n g

f o r m e n a n d w o m e n

crafted under the tuscan sun

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productprofile

20

1. GWT Corp

GWT Corp latest innovation mesmerized the Hollywood celebrities at the

2010 Toronto International Film Festival. GWT SP 19K Bellona is part of

GWT exclusive ultra fine collection called “GWT 19K Special Projects”. For


3. proTeCT Yourself

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail

Jewellery Businesses today! This guide will help you reduce your risk of

theft. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, Jewelers

Mutual is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance

in the U.S. and Canada. Visit JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411. For


3

2

4. ImaGe fIfTh avenue

Classic ladies’ bracelets with a modern look in 18k white and yellow gold,

can be worn for any occasion. Not only do they look good, but they also

feel good on the wrist. For more information write 161 on page 96.

2. Bulova flIes hIGh

The limited-edition Bulova Accutron Conqueror, inspired by the famous

Lone Eagle timepiece that Bulova awarded to Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh

in 1927, when he became the first person to complete a solo non-stop flight

across the Atlantic. Individually numbered. Model 63B152. Suggested retail,

$4,900. For details, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

4

5. Gold, 24/7

For the most accurate gold pricing, turn to 24 Gold Group Ltd. Specializing

in real-time gold pricing, clients are given the most precise, right up to the

second, pricing possible. Visit 24gold.ca twenty-four hours a day, seven

days a week, for the most exact gold pricing available or call 416-214-2443.

For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

1


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productprofile

22

2. JOIN THE MOST ACTIVE ONLINE COMMUNITY AND TRADING NETWORK FOR

QUALIFIED GEM & JEWELLERY PROFESSIONALS.

Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network

tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches,

jewellery, loose diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, coins and more. The high

calibre of members on the network and the active participation of some of the

brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon’s community one of the

most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email

[email protected] for more information. For details, write 164 on the Free Info

Card on page 96.

4

3

4. GIA REPORTS AND GRADING SYSTEMS

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in

communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and

the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides

an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of

diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also

includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity

characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated

with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most

impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write

166 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

1. ASHLEY ANNE COLLECTION UNVEILING

Midas Jewelry now offers engagement rings and matching bands in addition

to its vast selection of wedding rings. The recently introduced Ashley Anne

Collection of bridal sets will please any bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively

designed to fit the style of future brides. To see the full collection, visit

midasjewelryinc.ca. For details, write 163 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

3. PH DESIGN

This five stone, yellow and white anniversary ring in 14kt gold exudes an

easy, simple elegance. Each stone is 10pts with a total diamond weight

of 50pts. For more information, visit us online at www.phdesign.ca. For


2

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SeptemberHong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

19 - 23 September 2011AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong KongDiamonds, Pearls, Gemstones, Equipment and Packaging

21 - 25 September 2011Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreFine Finished Jewellery

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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The World’s Number OneFine Jewellery Event

9JG11 Ad 9x10.875inch_EN.indd 1 29/06/2011 10:23 AM

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24 CJ A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

starwatch

BY BONNIE SIEGLER

Heat of the MomentWhether it’s an anniversary or a big launch, the stars make sure the attention is on them by wearing some stunning jewellery.

Forever

romantic Dean

McDermott continued his

tradition of renewing his vows by

presenting his wife, Tori Spelling, with

a Neil Lane 14k gold art nouveau ring

with large natural pink pearl. McDermott

has followed this romantic tradition

on every anniversary for the last

fi ve years. (price available

upon request).

� e Cannes Film Festival always brings out the brightest stars and their jewellery. At the “Midnight In Paris” photocall at the Palais des Festivals, Rachel McAdams chose a Brumani Looping Casual Collection Ring in white and yellow gold with diamonds ($3,045) And at the “Sleeping Beauty” premiere at the � lm festival, the actress picked Amrapali for her arm: 14k gold Victorian diamond bracelet ($5870), a 14k silver and gold diamond bangle ($5080) and a silver and gold diamond bangle ($6120)

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starwatch

Making the talk show rounds of late is Jennifer Lopez who has

been promoting her American Idol job as well as a new CD and

video. For the launch of both her album Love? and the BlackBerry

PlayBook at Best Buy in Los Angeles, she chose a Sutra blue

sapphire with a cabochon fi nish and rose cut diamond cuff

($26,400). It sported 62 sapphires and a 21.7 carat diamond

count. Lopez also attended Simon Fuller’s recent induction

ceremony to receive his star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

She then chose a Brumani ring from the Evora Collection in

white gold with white diamonds, topaz and red topaz ($5,727).white gold with white diamonds, topaz and red topaz ($5,727).

Penélope Cruz sparkled at the “Pirates of the Caribbean” press

conference in Beverly Hills wearing Amrapali earrings

of 14k gold and 1 carat diamond ($1,200).

XX-XX.CJ_StarWatch.indd 26 7/8/11 7:32:29 PM

CRÉATIONS

LOGO DESIGN BY:CLIENT:

This information is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the client. Use of this information by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited and may be unlawful. When addressed to our customers any information contained in this presentation is subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the starmedia.ca

MARDINI / MALO Wedding Bands


CJ_Mar11_Malo.indd 1 7/8/11 1:08:30 PM

who’snews


GOLDEN DREAM“If it exists, make it better; if it doesn’t, create it.” That philosophy has guided Ramin Mesgarlou since he started in business in 1988. The drive to succeed was there even from an earlier age: “I came to Canada in 1978, when I was only 10, and have always been very much entrepreneurial, I always wanted to have my own business.”

Mesgarlou’s first attempt was a pizza restaurant he ran with his family. The timing wasn’t the best, since many people affected by the recession of late 80’s decided to open their own pizza places, creating a very difficult business environment. After a couple of years of that, he was introduced to the direct sales world. “I thought it was a pretty cool concept,” he says, “because it was almost like having multiple franchises around the world.”

By age 25 he was already doing very well, having fully embraced direct sales. “I believe it’s the last bastion of the free enterprise, the last chance for an average person to hit a financial homerun,” he explains. Of course he also realizes the industry faces its challenges, posed sometimes by unscrupulous people and sometimes by those who are simply uneducated in the field and believe they can easily make a fortune. “The reality,” says Mesgarlou, “is that direct sales is a home-based business that requires knowledge and discipline.”

Being a fervent direct sales advocate has also garnered him a series of important recognitions from the industry, as well as a title of “master networker,” and has led to the publication of his popular book “The Forensic Networker” (“forensic” due to its level of detail). Mesgarlou believes some of the people in the industry “are teaching the wrong things” and that’s why he keeps doing his seminars a few times a year.

Mesgarlou applied his business knowledge to the nutrition & health business for 14 years, in which he managed to compile a list of 100,000 clients worldwide. When he decided to open his own company, he debated whether to stay in the health industry he knew so well or not but finally decided against it. One of the main reasons why is that the low profit margins per unit forced the distributors to sell high volumes of products to become profitable. Instead, he decided to go into the luxury goods business. Although Mesgarlou himself did not have a jewellery background, his family heritage of fine jewellery manufacturing dates back to 1882.

“It makes sense to sell the most profitable items,” he explains. “Also, luxury items have been recession-proof for the past hundred years. Take a look at all the big brands, Cartier, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Versace … they don’t get affected by recessions, they actually increase their sales during recessions.” He also emphasizes that “last year, sales of luxury goods in the U.S. went up 18%. By the same token, the experts predict that there are going to be 10 million new millionaires created in the U.S alone over the next 10 years.”

Those numbers certainly affected his business decisions. His company started selling its own high-end jewellery, “but there is a difference between expensive and fine jewellery, and I knew I wanted to create fine jewellery.” That’s when, in 2007, he created Feri, a line of fine sterling silver, tungsten, plangsten and ceramica collection. The success of his new line was astronomical – “in the first five years our company grew by an average of 297 per cent per year” – and led to an expansion into exclusive handbags and “shields” (sunglasses).

The desire to bring his company to the next level led Mesgarlou to create an even more ambitious brand – Feri Mosh – which accomplished the unimaginable: ultra luxury jewellery collection made with an exclusive 21k gold composition. It took two million dollars and four years of

research for them to be able to add stones to 21k gold. “It was problematic because we wanted to keep the purity of the gold high but at the same time be able to work with the stones. We finally found a compound that works; obviously there were things we couldn’t do and designs we had to reject. It was a very expensive process but I believe that, when you want to do something, then you can get it done,” says Mesgarlou. One of the reasons why it required such a large investment is that, according to him, “the gold loss with 21k is three times bigger than the one with 18k.”

As with many other wonders, the 21k breakthrough was almost an accident. As Mesgarlou recalls it: “We were working on a 20k compound and had already done all of our branding and had our signage ready referring to 20k. Then we tested the compound and it turned out to be 20.98k!”

The Canadian company, with headquarters in Richmond Hill, Ont., also has a 19k gold bridal line that includes some very unique pieces. One of them could not be made by their master setter since it required someone with very small hands, while another, according to Mesgarlou, “contains 900 diamonds.”

Both Feri and Feri Mosh will get the VIP treatment starting next year, when the company begins opening what it calls “galleries,” high concept retail spaces that are tentatively slated to open in Rome, Paris, Hong Kong and Dubai. Mesgarlou explains that, when he ventured into the world of fine jewellery and luxury goods, he was prepared to not make profits for some time and that he has been pouring about $3 million dollars a year into this venture.

Ramin Mesgarlou is a man who hasn’t met a challenge he couldn’t overcome. In fact, he thrives on them. The next one, according to him, is to have a billion-dollar luxury designer company by 2015. We wouldn’t bet against him. [CJ]

ENTREPRENEUR RAMIN MESGARLOU TOOK ON HIS GREATEST CHALLENGE: CREATING A 21K GOLD JEWELLERY LINE

XX-XX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 28 7/8/11 8:13:02 PM

who’snews

29 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 CJ


who’snews


PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

Ferragamo’s high hopesTimepiece brand Ferragamo has appointed Paul Zi� as its new President of the U.S. and Caribbean markets. � e Gevril Group, owner of Ferragamo and several other notable luxury brands, has stated that Zi� is an “industry leader” with many years of experience in the luxury watch industry. Zi� ’s latest role as North American President for Zenith Swiss Watch Company saw him re-launch the entire company with great results. He is also commended for establishing Chopard as a prominent luxury brand in the U.S. Samuel Friedmann,

founder of Gevril Group, has acknowledged that Ferragamo faces high gains in the future under Zi� ’s leadership.

ALG gets creative� e Aston Luxury Group, a diamond jewellery manufacturer and a division of Gitanjali USA, has announced Jamison Ernest as its new creative director. Ernest is the founder of artistic studio Yellow Fever Creative and owner of Brooklyn Beat Records. He is “immensely grateful” to be joining Gitanjali’s 65-year existence as one of the world’s largest corporations of diamonds, jewellery and lifestyle brands reporting over $2 billion in global sales and over $300 million in sales in the U.S. alone. President of Aston Luxury Group, Jon Mitchell, has announced the launch of a new brand called Love Universe under the partnership between Aston and Gitanjali,

which debuted in June 2011 in Las Vegas.

A true diamondAntwerp Diamond Bourse has announced Maurice Fischler as its new president following the biennial elections held to replace six of the company’s 12 serving board members. Fischler, who also owns Fischler Diamonds Company, has served on ADB’s board for the past six years. World Federation of Diamond Bourses president Avi Paz welcomed Fischler, praising him as an “excellent diamantaire” in a public statement.

founder of Gevril Group, has acknowledged that Ferragamo faces high gains in the future under Zi� ’s leadership.

ALG gets creative� e Aston Luxury Group, a diamond jewellery manufacturer and a division of Gitanjali USA, has announced Jamison Ernest as its new creative director. Ernest is the founder of artistic studio Yellow Fever Creative and owner of Brooklyn Beat Records. He is “immensely grateful” to be joining Gitanjali’s 65-year existence as one of the world’s largest corporations of diamonds, jewellery and lifestyle brands reporting over $2 billion in global sales and over $300 million in sales in the U.S. alone. President of Aston Luxury Group, Jon Mitchell, has announced the launch of a new brand called Love Universe under the partnership between Aston and Gitanjali,

Embee is on fi reEmbee Diamonds Atelier has announced that Maarten de Witte has joined their team as a new Executive Director in charge of diamond distribution in the United States. Embee Diamonds President Mike Botha stated that de Witte, is a perfect � t for their company because of his experience in the diamond industry and market for over 35 years. � e company is expected to grow with the help of de Witte, adding new retailers to their existing client list. Prior to accepting his new position, de Witte was a Director of Research and Diamond Wizard for Hearts on Fire.

Climbing the Tiffany ladderOn June 23, 2011, Ti� any & Co. announced that Patrick McGuiness has been appointed senior vice president and chief � nancial o� cer. McGuiness joined the company in 1990 and held various management positions before he was promoted to senior vice president of � nance in 2007. In addition, James Fernandez was appointed the chief operating o� cer. Fernandez joined the company in 1983 and since 1999, he has served as the CFO. McGuiness will report to Fernandez, while he will be reporting to Ti� any’s CEO Michael Kowalski. [CJ]


swiss made.

self made.Sir Richard Branson

Founder of Virgin Group.

Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds from the photo shoot were donatedto Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com

THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION.Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this

doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why

he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again.

Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests.

From the Gemini Collection

www.bulova.com

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theCJinterview

Raymond Weil Genève is certainly an avis rara within the Swiss watch making community. First of all, it’s one of

the few brands that remains independent and hasn’t become part of a conglomerate. Secondly, it’s still a family company: It was founded by Mr. Weil himself, who brought in his son-in-law, Olivier Bernheim and, more recently, his grandsons Elie and Pierre, to work with him. It is also a “new” company by Swiss standards, since it was created in 1976. Finally, it was born during an especially bleak time for the industry and, nevertheless, managed not only to survive but thrive.We had the pleasure to talk to Olivier Bernheim, the company’s president & CEO, who shares his vision for the brand as well as his insights into the industry’s biggest challenges. Speaking of challenges, he admits that nowadays watches face a tough competition from a myriad of gadgets that also o� er the time. His strategy has been to “di� erentiate ourselves through style with a human face in a jungle of a highly competitive and anonymous market. Comparing to other electronic items, a watch remains a timeless object that people like to collect, o� er for important events or just keep for pleasure.”In a tough market it’s essential to sense and even predict changes and quickly adapt to them. As Bernheim points out, “in the last 10 years we have seen our men’s segment quickly and strongly developing itself towards mechanical self-winding watches such as chronographs, moon phases, two-time zones, regulators and so on.” � ese changes have also been perceived in the women’s segment: “We are now seeing women developing a taste for automatic timepieces. � is is more prevalent in our Asian distribution, but as we grow, we are seeing the trend also manifest

Independent SpiritOlivier Bernheim, Raymond Weil’s CEO, tells, in this exclusive interview, how innovation kept his company a market leader

itself in the United States and Canada.”Speaking of our country, Bernheim has high expectations regarding it: “In the past few months, we opened the � rst of our shop-in-shops in Canada and are developing quite a few more at this time. Canada is one of our benchmark markets that my son, Pierre, follows very, very closely. Travelling and touring the country on a monthly basis, he made the decision of keeping an exclusive and limited distribution there, o� ering to every authorized retailer the opportunity to turn the brand a few times a year and to move the brand far from any discounting past policies.”� e company also has big plans for the Asian markets. As Bernheim explains it: “Our upcoming global developments, with a focus on China and India, include new boutiques and opening shop-in-shops that enhance market visibility while o� ering re� ned luxury timepieces with the highest Swiss horological

heritage, at attractive prices, in a unique and dedicated brand environment.”Is it di� cult to work with your father-in-law? Not for Bernheim, at least. He confesses he “learned so much from Mr. Weil and I am still asking his advice when he comes to the o� ce. I have never worked for him, but with him and for the company.” As for working with his sons, he says: “Managing an independent, family-owned company is a real advantage and a strength. Coherent reactivity is at the heart of my management. My sons Elie and Pierre and I can contact each other at any moment of the day or week, so that we are able to act quickly. � e trust we have in each other is key. Who can I trust more than my own kids? � ey also bring the modernity and the latest approach to the market. In addition, having them involved in the business creates a positive atmosphere within our partners who can feel reassured by observing Raymond Weil Genève is here to stay.” [CJ]

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

itself in the United States and Canada.” heritage, at attractive prices, in a unique and

Olivier Bernheim

XX-XX.CJ_TheInterview.indd 32 7/8/11 8:09:03 PM

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CJ_Lega.indd 1 7/8/11 1:07:29 PM


fortherecord

news | trends | events

Unstoppable gold, sagging demandA recent Gold Demand Trends report from the World Gold Council suggests that the demand for gold jewellery is on the decline as a result of high gold prices for the first quarter of 2011. The report shows that value of demand has decreased by 10 per cent to 20.5 tons while the actual value of American gold jewellery has increased by 12 per cent to reach $914.4 billion in the first quarter of 2011. Details show that the price of gold has increased by 25 per cent since last year and that is why retailers are now stocking more sterling silver products as opposed to gold.While global inflation is on the rise, the Standard Chartered Bank has published that the price of gold continues to soar with the trading cost of $1,543 per ounce (at press time). If gold costs reach $5,000 per ounce in the next decade, the gold market is predicted to be under deficit in the next few years. The demand for gold jewellery is suffering mainly as a result of financial problems in Europe and the political unrest in the Middle East and Northern Africa. RBS strategist Daniel Major stated that the largest variable that is going to make an impact on the cost of gold is the different currencies around the world. The main reason for the increase in costs is that the mining industry has not been constructing any new gold mines.

Zeke’s catch jewellery robbers Laurie Gillespie, the manager of Zeke’s Jewellers for 17 years, had two suspicious women walk into Zeke’s around 10:30 am on Saturday, June 18th. The women matched the descriptions she had read in an industry association alert; they were accused of a string of robberies across the Prairies. She recognized the robbers “thanks to JVC. There were very good descriptions of them.” Gillespie told Canadian Jeweller, “The two women went right over to the heavy gold.” When they realized who the women were, “Our

Clockwise From Top Left: John Zeke, the owner of Zeke’s Jewellers; Zeke’s Jewellers store; Laurie Gillespie, manager for 17 years

Flying highBfly, the innovative Canadian jewellery company renowned for their butterfly-themed kids’ collections is a firm believer in promoting local talent, which in turn ensures the development and longevity of our industry. With that in mind, they recently hired 10 of the brightest jewellery students from different schools in Quebec (where Bfly has its headquarters), who will work together with the company’s design staff. The announcement is part of a very positive year for Bfly, which recently signed a deal to have its products distributed in France by Groupe GL, a major player in that country. The agreement is just the first step towards achieving distribution of Bfly across Europe. In addition, the company will launch a new gold collection in the fall and is already preparing for the release of a watch line in 2012.

XX-XX.CJ_FTR.indd 34 7/12/11 3:58:11 PM

Please visit www.seikocan.com to view our full range of Seiko watches.To become an authorized Seiko dealer, please contact kelvin Cheong at 1-800-668-6571.

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CJ_PepperPlus_Odyssey.indd 1 7/8/11 1:20:10 PM


fortherecord

36

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MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1

faces went red, and hearts started beating. The one thing that gave them away were their gold teeth. I stayed with our customer, watching these two women and my coworker called the police.” Sensing something was up, the robbers left the store. Police found the women from Kitchener, Ontario, three to four minutes after the call, at a bank across the street. Gillespie said, “I heard they had $1,400 in cash and were trying to switch it to smaller denominations.” The robbers were arrested and transferred to North Battleford, Saskatchewan, to face outstanding warrants.Hong Kong show generates AWE The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair has been a staple in the global jewellery trade’s events calendar. It gathers 3,300 exhibitors from 45 countries and regions, as well as 44,000 buyers from 135 countries and regions. It is the largest fair ever in terms of exhibition space, in any industry, in Hong Kong. The fair in September occupies two top-

notch venues, expanding from eight to nine halls in AsiaWorld-Expo (September 19 -23). This brings the total exhibition space in AWE to 60,000 square metres; this, paired with the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (September 21- 25), totals 130,000 square metres of exhibition space.

JVC scores an ace Jewellers Vigilance Canada’s Fifteenth Annual Golf Tournament was held at Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, ON, on Monday, June 20th, 2011. Fun was had by all, on the course during the day, during dinner and at the silent auction. All of the money raised will help JVC continue their work on behalf of the Canadian jewellery and watch industry. Many thanks go out to the sponsors who made the event possible with their generosity, as well as to the Golf Committee co-chairs Steve Taylor and Jay Cameron from Bulova Watch and Committee members Gino

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DeVuono (Movado Group of Canada), Kevin Kaye and Eric Senftleben, (Citizen Watch Company of Canada) and Phyllis Richard and Carla Adams of JVC.

Mining the bestOn May 24th, 2011, in Montreal, the Canadian Foundation of Mining and Metallurgy (CFMM) held a showcase of fine jewellery, precious metals and precious stones. Over 100 executives of the mining industry, from Canada, Australia, South Africa and other countries, attended the event. Kaufmann de Suisse showcased their latest line of jewellery, and men’s watches and accessories were displayed from Patek Philippe, Bucherer and Vacheron Constantin. In addition, Marc Laverdière, Canadian brand ambassador for Macallan and Highland Park scotches provided samples and insights into selected beverages. Dr. Gerald Hatch, FCIM (Fellow of CIM) and founder of Hatch Consulting, welcomed guests, which included Mr. Glenn Clark, FCIM, President of CMMF, M. René Dufour, FCIM, CMMF Trustee and founding member, Dr. Chris Twigge-Molecey, FCIM, Member of the Board of Hatch and Chairman of the Board of CIM, M. Jean Vavrek, FCIM, President and CEO of CIM, Mr. Jim Popowich, FCIM and member of the Board of Directors

Top: Gerry O’Hanlon, Stephanie Wideman, Navaz Qadeer, Mo Charania; Bottom: Dinner

XX-XX.CJ_FTR.indd 36 7/11/11 10:44:19 AM

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fortherecord

38

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of CIM, Mr. Thomas Ormsby, Director of Public Affairs, De Beers Canada, Mr. Dina Aloi, VP, Corporate Social Responsibility, GoldCorp, Mr. Louis Brun, Showcase organizer. Deborah Smith Sauvé, Director of CFMM, stated that the evening was a success, raising funds for the foundation, building relationships and showcasing fine scotches and exquisite jewellery.

Vancouver Police save the day On Thursday, May 26th, at the 2011 Western Robbery Investigators Seminar held in Edmonton, Alberta, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) presented to the Vancouver Police Department’s Major Crime Section a JVC Award of Merit for the investigation and arrests of eight suspects for armed robberies of jewellers in the Vancouver area. Congratulations to the following police officers involved in the investigations and arrests: Detective Constables Tim Russell, Jennifer McMartin, Aj Sandhu, Dean Wells,

Sharon Hunter, Mike Kim, Shane Aitken, Trevor Burmachuk, Vikki Smalley and Acting Inspector Joanne Boyle and Sergeant Kevin McLaren. “These officers did an excellent job and spent many hours investigating over a period of two years. This shows a great devotion to duty and to our industry” says John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention.

Sears steps upSears Canada is preparing for a new competitor, Target Corp., by naming Calvin

McDonald as the new president and CEO. McDonald was a senior executive with Loblaw Cos. Ltd., and replaces Dene Rogers effective immediately; Rogers will be returning to the U.S., the company said. In a statement, McDonald said that he believes Sears Canada, the country’s second largest department store retailer, has the potential to “significantly increase its sales and profitability.” McDonald brings “extensive retail experience, knowledge of online and customer-relationship technologies, an energetic and engaging leadership style, and an appreciation for the opportunity that Sears Canada represents,” Sears Canada’s chairman William Crowley said in a statement.

The Bay reinvents itself The Hudson’s Bay Co. has announced a multimillion-dollar makeover of 80 of its 91 store locations across Canada. The company agreed to sell most of its Zellers locations to the U.S.-owned Target retailer resulting in more space and money to complete the massive renovations of The Bay department store chain by August. It is also reported that Hudson’s Bay plans to make a 20 per cent public offering of its shares with a listing on the Toronto Stock Exchange. With the arrival of discount chains like Wal-Mart and Target in Canada, The Bay has been trying to revamp its image into a higher-end retailer. [CJ]

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Below:Front row, left to right: Det. Cst. Tim Russell, Det. Cst. Aj Sandhu, Det. Cst. Shane Aitken; Back row, left to right: Det. Cst. Dean Wells, Sgt. Kevin McLaren; Inset: Det.Cst. Jennifer McMartin, co-Lead Investigator

Top: M. René Dufour, ing., FCIM and Founding Member of CMMF and Mr. James Popowich, FCIM, Past President and now Director of CIM; Bottom: Mr. and Mrs. Glenn Clark, P. Eng., FCIM

XX-XX.CJ_FTR.indd 38 7/8/11 8:39:19 PM


CJ_ShinyJewellers.indd 1 7/8/11 1:29:24 PM


gemologyfeature

40

Colour Me SoldInexpensive coloured gemstones are a great way to increase sales

There’s something in the air these days. Call it recession, if you will, though the economists tell us it’s over. Despite our hypothetical emergence from the financial crisis, the average household budget

doesn’t extend to a great deal of luxury these days. My last birthday was what I like to call a “socks and underwear” day. Most of us are being necessarily careful with our funds, such as they are.

The average jewellery consumer is not average any more; they’re more of an exotic species, an unusual visitor from another place. We all like beautiful things, but right now, it’s pretty common to see jewellery stores with more tire-kickers than buyers.

One reason that these browsers aren’t buying is a shortage of available resources. The sad look in their eyes is because there isn’t anything cheap enough to give them the retail “fix” that makes life so worthwhile. It doesn’t, however, have to be this way.

A while ago, I was speaking to a manufacturer who had just taken the corner office in his multi-generation family jewellery business that had made gold and diamond wedding rings for decades. He said that when he inherited the business it was struggling. He immediately looked at the business model, and reconfigured it to silver and stainless steel rings. The volume necessarily had to increase exponentially, but working at a cost threshold of under fifty dollars instead of hundreds to thousands of dollars allowed the company to enter a whole new business area.

Many jewellers have followed similar models. I have a few friends who have started manufacturing production jewellery in a combination of silver and

gold and set with interesting, but modestly priced coloured gemstones. There is a huge palette of really beautiful and intriguing coloured gems that can fit into even the most modest budget. There are alternatives to $1,500 an-ounce gold to set these gems too. Silver alloys that are tarnish resistant, stainless steel with its unique appearance, and other metals are increasingly used in jewellery stores that have always had a focus on gold and platinum.

The gems that you might use in these jewels are innumerable. There are hundreds of gems out there, and of those, there are many colour varieties. You can think of these as a palette of colours to paint a work of gem art for your client. The possibilities are endless.

Of course, we understand that there will always be a market for the big ones, the gems that are consistently at the forefront of the consumer’s knowledge and expectations, the diamond, sapphire, ruby, emerald, and pearl, among others.

The other, less standard gems provide an exciting set of possibilities, and the options are endless. One of the most tempting elements of these alternative gems is their modest purchase price.

Something to remember is the word “margin.” If you sell a five thousand-dollar diamond and have a few hundred dollars of profit out of it, why not sell a tourmaline for a few hundred dollars and make a hundred dollars’ profit. Prices are not so clearly established in the consumer’s awareness, as are diamond prices, and due to this, it is actually possible to make enough to pay the rent with alternative gems. It is not a good idea to charge too much, but you should be able to make a living.

By duncan parker

XX-XX.CJ_Gemology.indd 40 7/8/11 8:02:20 PM

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an eff ective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my fi rst interview with the company.

Ok. Defi nitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and fi ve years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplifi ed in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,

shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further

world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1AATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119ADVERTISER: GIA ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

CanadianJeweller_FNL.indd 1 3/9/11 9:35 AM


CJ.Apr_GIA.indd 1 7/8/11 12:56:59 PM


gemologyfeature

42

What gemstones can fit into a small budget? What can’t? For the price of a really awful looking carat diamond, you can provide a customer with a suite of beautiful coloured gemstone jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, and bracelets.

FOLLOW THE RAINBOWWith an eye to colour, you’re able to follow the rainbow to your customer’s greatest desire. It is important to understand that the consumer doesn’t arrive at your store with an idea of buying something unusual, but if you are excited, it is easy to pass on the enthusiasm when you start to describe the other gems in your palette.

Red spinel is an unheralded wonder among gems; it is hard, rare, and rich in colour (the Black Prince’s Ruby in the British Crown Jewels is actually a red spinel), and while it is not cheap, it costs a lot less than a similar looking ruby. Red is the most costly variety of spinel, but the gem is available in a vast range of other colours, most of which are really inexpensive, often tens of dollars a carat rather than hundreds or thousands per carat. There are great lavenders, pinks, and other colours to choose from.

Tourmaline is available in almost any colour of the rainbow, and in most of those, it is pretty modestly priced. Paraiba tourmaline, a rich, electric blue green colour is very costly, priced as much as $20,000 per carat wholesale, but next in price would be the red or pink rubellite tourmaline, which might cost as much as a few hundred dollars per carat. However, greens and blues are available and can be modestly priced, in really clean bright gems, providing great options for design.

While quartz isn’t available in red, it is found in lots of colours and textures. There are so many - I’ve seen a whole book dedicated to names of quartz gem materials. Quartz is found in transparent to opaque gems, uniform to spotted. Last week, for instance, I saw a necklace of rutilated quartz beads of colourless transparent rock crystal with inclusions of golden colour needles scattered through them. They looked great, were the owner’s favourite jewellery, and were only a few hundred dollars’ cost.

Amethyst is the most costly quartz, but this purple gem is still only a few dollars to (usually) less than fifty dollars a carat’s cost. At this price, you can custom design something really special for your customer, with change to spare. (An added bonus: folklore tells that dropping an amethyst into one’s drink can prevent inebriation. I have tried this and it didn’t work for me, but maybe the size of the amethyst is related to the amount drunk!). Citrine is yellow to golden

quartz, and has a lower price than amethyst. A suite of citrine can be less than the cost of a grading report on a similarly coloured diamond.

While emerald of fine quality can be unsurpassed and quite costly, there are other varieties of this mineral, beryl, that are very modestly

priced, and can be quite lovely. Morganite is a pink beryl. Morganite is named after the famous banker and financier,

J.P. Morgan, who possibly gained his wealth through careful purchasing. He certainly could have saved some money by buying the gem that bears his name, for under a hundred dollars a carat in many cases. Some really nice-looking Morganite is found in Madagascar (though you don’t have to go there yourself to get one).

Kunzite is another pink gem available in big, clean specimens for modest prices. Good pink colours and

purplish pink specimens are available from Afghanistan, and though looking for the stuff yourself in that source

might be difficult right now, the good news is it’s still coming into the market.

ADD SOME MYSTERYPhenomenal gems, such as moonstone, create a fascinating and mysterious look to jewellery. The bluish, or sometimes rainbow colour, light that floats around in the moonstone provides options for all kinds of jewellery, and is fascinating to look at, while it is still a very modestly priced gem.

There are some remarkable blue gems towards one end of the spectrum. Lapis lazuli is a vivid blue gem,

principally derived from Afghanistan; it is rich, and beautiful in colour, usually with tiny sparkly flecks of golden colour pyrite.

This gem is modestly priced, even in the finest specimens.

The options for colour are almost limitless, and it’s a great idea to ask your local coloured gem dealer for some suggestions. There really are dozens of gems available in shapes and cut styles that range from the conventional to the highly unusual. The shapes and forms, combined with the colours and textures available provide almost limitless choices for your

clients and for exciting design choices.

You certainly need to have an enthusiasm about these gems, but with this you might find customers coming again

and again for new ideas and suggestions from what you have (and can afford to keep) in your regularly available inventory. Once you have a name for the interesting and unusual at an affordable price, it can generate business and referrals. [CJ]

XX-XX.CJ_Gemology.indd 42 7/8/11 8:02:35 PM

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finding a career path can come as the result of a fortuitous encounter. it can be inherited from one’s parents. it can be perceived as fate. or it can simply be dictated by someone who knows better. that someone can be a family member or an authority figure, so why not a guidance counsellor? that’s exactly what happened to e. pius kaufmann when he was still a school student in his native switzerland. as he recalls it, “this person came in, asked me a list of questions and the undisputed outcome was that i had to be a goldsmith.” that option sounded right to kaufmann, who started to work as an apprentice, both in basel and geneva. however, switzerland proved to be too small for him. “i wanted to see the world,” he explains. “this was in the early fifties and i wanted to have an experience abroad. i tried to go to the u.s. but the visa was going to take too long. then i went to the canadian embassy: they were interested in me, treated me very well and managed to get me a visa in only two weeks. as a result, e. pius arrived in montreal in 1953, where he started working at birks. his craftsmanship and design flare stood out and soon he started winning design competitions, such as the diamonds international awards (kaufmann de suisse won the prestigious competition six times in total). after just a year of arriving in canada, e. pius kaufmann started his own business. since the very beginning he decided he would only sell his own creations: “we do everything, from design to the final piece.” that certainly set him apart from other jewellers who were just retailers. brand recognition was achieved not only through awards but also thanks to word of mouth and signature collections such as the flowing lines. inspired by women’s curves, the symmetry of art deco and the fluidity of art nouveau, flowing lines was born 15 years ago and has been a success ever since. “it’s bold and feminine at the same time,” as the jewellers themselves describe it. little by little the kaufmann family became involved in the business. as kaufmann puts it: “i told my oldest son money needed to be earned, and that’s how be became an apprentice.” in time both his sons, christopher and charles, joined kaufmann de suisse, as did his daughter, moneca. to this day, charles and moneca are still working with their father; him more focused on design, her more on the business aspect of the company. kaufmann de suisse has also expanded geographically, first to palm beach, in 1994 and then to new york in 2002. though the new york store has closed down since, the palm beach location keeps growing strong. “we decided on having a store in palm beach for two reasons: to follow our clients who vacation there and to reach a new clientele,” explains moneca. time showed it was a smart decision indeed. people tend to purchase more while on vacation. “and it’s also a time when men and women are finally together again, which makes them more inclined to shop for jewellery,” she adds. as to how moneca became involved in the family business, well, that’s another story…”i’ve been exposed to it my whole life, since i was a kid,” she admits. still, she first embraced a career as an equity analyst. she did her mba in europe, became a top analyst and opened her own discretionary money management company. however, all of moneca’s achievements weren’t strong enough to keep her away from the jewellery industry. “i’ve always admired the passion my dad pours into it and the beauty of the pieces,” she explains. a chance encounter with a dolphin also put things into perspective for her: “one day, after scuba diving in the ocean in mexico, i met this dolphin. we looked at each other and right then and there i knew i had to join my father in his business. i saw it as an opportunity to develop myself as a human being.” so, the next time he asked her to come work to the store, she said yes. “you sometimes have to take risks and go out of your comfort zone,” she says. she didn’t have a background in sales and admits she was nervous about servicing clients at first, since she believes they should be served with utmost knowledge. she was definitely hesitant to get behind the store counter and remembers how happy she was after closing her first sale: “i was terrified of going to the sales floor; the first piece i sold was a girl’s gold ring.” ultimately, you have to believe in what you’re selling. “the most wonderful thing is to be able to sell what you make yourself,” she adds. at first, moneca didn’t know she was a good salesperson. in fact, she was very surprised to realize she was the one who sold most chocolate bars at school (in grade 6). determination is what kept her knocking on every door until she sold the last bar. however, jewellery is obviously very specific. that’s why she complemented her days at the store with gemology classes in the evening, until she obtained her certification from the gia. it was exhausting but definitely worth it. knowledge is key in any business venture. in moneca’s case, that means she can educate clients on the beauty of gemstones and, thanks to her business background, also help them consider them as an investment. “diamonds are a great way of getting out of the currency risks. coloured diamonds, for instance, have seen their prices increase 15 per cent a year since the 70’s.” that’s why, when people ask them if the soaring prices of gold and diamonds have negatively affected their business, she responds that, in the contrary, it has actually brought in more customers. there’s still work to be done on the education front. “perception is that everything we sell is too expensive, which is not true,” moneca says. of course some pieces are, and deservingly so. “we recently sold a $1.5-million, 2-carat blue diamond that was made into a beautiful ring,” in that respect, the kaufmanns understand that making their own jewellery gives them an advantage over other retailers. as moneca explains it, “we are able to offer a superior product for a better price; we know what our costs are and that gives us more flexibility. we can also offer something more customized, which lowers the risk of purchase, especially for men. it attracts people who are looking for unique pieces. in addition, we can really do quality control, to ensure our products last a lifetime.” the only external brand kaufmann de suisse carries is patek philippe and carl f. bucherer watches, which they distribute in exclusivity in quebec. as for what the future holds, moneca is optimistic: “there is a market for high-end, unique jewellery.” however, she feels the industry in canada is being burdened by excessive taxation, which in turn discourages many customers of buying jewellery in our country, as well as promoting a proliferation of sales “under the table”. another perennial challenge is finding the right salespeople, ones with the integrity and the knowledge their clients expect. moneca admits it can be a frustrating, never-ending process yet she also feels “that sometimes good salespeople just find you.” kaufmann de suisse has a long tradition – over 50 years – to honour and also keeps moving forward. among their plans: a new, comprehensive website and the implementation of a customer relationship management system. in addition to that, they’re launching a new jewellery collection called jardins de la mer. this sea-inspired line plays with seashell shapes and promises to be very popular among customers. also in the works, something that will take their business to the next level: having other retailers carry their jewellery lines. even though nothing has been finalized yet, the kaufmanns are already looking into select retailers to partner with. moneca’s future will center more on advancing the business side of the company and designing pieces with her brother charles, and she admits she will continue to serve some special clients, “not because they spend more money than others but because i have a relationship with them.” e. pius kaufmann was a young man who wanted to see the world. he’s been showing us, for over 50 years, how beautiful the world can be.


coverstory

On HIM: SHIrT-MASIOn MArTIn MArGIelA, JAckeT-TOMMy HIlfIGer, TrOUSerS - MIUMIU; On Her: BlOUSe-MArnI, TrOUSerS-MArnI. All Jewelry By kAUfMAnn De SUISSe

XX-XX.CJ_CoverStory.indd 44 7/8/11 7:33:15 PM

finding a career path can come as the result of a fortuitous encounter. it can be inherited from one’s parents. it can be perceived as fate. or it can simply be dictated by someone who knows better. that someone can be a family member or an authority figure, so why not a guidance counsellor? that’s exactly what happened to e. pius kaufmann when he was still a school student in his native switzerland. as he recalls it, “this person came in, asked me a list of questions and the undisputed outcome was that i had to be a goldsmith.” that option sounded right to kaufmann, who started to work as an apprentice, both in basel and geneva. however, switzerland proved to be too small for him. “i wanted to see the world,” he explains. “this was in the early fifties and i wanted to have an experience abroad. i tried to go to the u.s. but the visa was going to take too long. then i went to the canadian embassy: they were interested in me, treated me very well and managed to get me a visa in only two weeks. as a result, e. pius arrived in montreal in 1953, where he started working at birks. his craftsmanship and design flare stood out and soon he started winning design competitions, such as the diamonds international awards (kaufmann de suisse won the prestigious competition six times in total). after just a year of arriving in canada, e. pius kaufmann started his own business. since the very beginning he decided he would only sell his own creations: “we do everything, from design to the final piece.” that certainly set him apart from other jewellers who were just retailers. brand recognition was achieved not only through awards but also thanks to word of mouth and signature collections such as the flowing lines. inspired by women’s curves, the symmetry of art deco and the fluidity of art nouveau, flowing lines was born 15 years ago and has been a success ever since. “it’s bold and feminine at the same time,” as the jewellers themselves describe it. little by little the kaufmann family became involved in the business. as kaufmann puts it: “i told my oldest son money needed to be earned, and that’s how be became an apprentice.” in time both his sons, christopher and charles, joined kaufmann de suisse, as did his daughter, moneca. to this day, charles and moneca are still working with their father; him more focused on design, her more on the business aspect of the company. kaufmann de suisse has also expanded geographically, first to palm beach, in 1994 and then to new york in 2002. though the new york store has closed down since, the palm beach location keeps growing strong. “we decided on having a store in palm beach for two reasons: to follow our clients who vacation there and to reach a new clientele,” explains moneca. time showed it was a smart decision indeed. people tend to purchase more while on vacation. “and it’s also a time when men and women are finally together again, which makes them more inclined to shop for jewellery,” she adds. as to how moneca became involved in the family business, well, that’s another story…”i’ve been exposed to it my whole life, since i was a kid,” she admits. still, she first embraced a career as an equity analyst. she did her mba in europe, became a top analyst and opened her own discretionary money management company. however, all of moneca’s achievements weren’t strong enough to keep her away from the jewellery industry. “i’ve always admired the passion my dad pours into it and the beauty of the pieces,” she explains. a chance encounter with a dolphin also put things into perspective for her: “one day, after scuba diving in the ocean in mexico, i met this dolphin. we looked at each other and right then and there i knew i had to join my father in his business. i saw it as an opportunity to develop myself as a human being.” so, the next time he asked her to come work to the store, she said yes. “you sometimes have to take risks and go out of your comfort zone,” she says. she didn’t have a background in sales and admits she was nervous about servicing clients at first, since she believes they should be served with utmost knowledge. she was definitely hesitant to get behind the store counter and remembers how happy she was after closing her first sale: “i was terrified of going to the sales floor; the first piece i sold was a girl’s gold ring.” ultimately, you have to believe in what you’re selling. “the most wonderful thing is to be able to sell what you make yourself,” she adds. at first, moneca didn’t know she was a good salesperson. in fact, she was very surprised to realize she was the one who sold most chocolate bars at school (in grade 6). determination is what kept her knocking on every door until she sold the last bar. however, jewellery is obviously very specific. that’s why she complemented her days at the store with gemology classes in the evening, until she obtained her certification from the gia. it was exhausting but definitely worth it. knowledge is key in any business venture. in moneca’s case, that means she can educate clients on the beauty of gemstones and, thanks to her business background, also help them consider them as an investment. “diamonds are a great way of getting out of the currency risks. coloured diamonds, for instance, have seen their prices increase 15 per cent a year since the 70’s.” that’s why, when people ask them if the soaring prices of gold and diamonds have negatively affected their business, she responds that, in the contrary, it has actually brought in more customers. there’s still work to be done on the education front. “perception is that everything we sell is too expensive, which is not true,” moneca says. of course some pieces are, and deservingly so. “we recently sold a $1.5-million, 2-carat blue diamond that was made into a beautiful ring,” in that respect, the kaufmanns understand that making their own jewellery gives them an advantage over other retailers. as moneca explains it, “we are able to offer a superior product for a better price; we know what our costs are and that gives us more flexibility. we can also offer something more customized, which lowers the risk of purchase, especially for men. it attracts people who are looking for unique pieces. in addition, we can really do quality control, to ensure our products last a lifetime.” the only external brand kaufmann de suisse carries is patek philippe and carl f. bucherer watches, which they distribute in exclusivity in quebec. as for what the future holds, moneca is optimistic: “there is a market for high-end, unique jewellery.” however, she feels the industry in canada is being burdened by excessive taxation, which in turn discourages many customers of buying jewellery in our country, as well as promoting a proliferation of sales “under the table”. another perennial challenge is finding the right salespeople, ones with the integrity and the knowledge their clients expect. moneca admits it can be a frustrating, never-ending process yet she also feels “that sometimes good salespeople just find you.” kaufmann de suisse has a long tradition – over 50 years – to honour and also keeps moving forward. among their plans: a new, comprehensive website and the implementation of a customer relationship management system. in addition to that, they’re launching a new jewellery collection called jardins de la mer. this sea-inspired line plays with seashell shapes and promises to be very popular among customers. also in the works, something that will take their business to the next level: having other retailers carry their jewellery lines. even though nothing has been finalized yet, the kaufmanns are already looking into select retailers to partner with. moneca’s future will center more on advancing the business side of the company and designing pieces with her brother charles, and she admits she will continue to serve some special clients, “not because they spend more money than others but because i have a relationship with them.” e. pius kaufmann was a young man who wanted to see the world. he’s been showing us, for over 50 years, how beautiful the world can be.

coverstory

45 w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 CJ

flowing beautyBY CARLOS WEIGLE

PORTRAIT PhOTOGRAPhY BY RIChmOnd LAm

STYLInG BY kELEChI AChOnu

For over 50 years Kaufmann de Suisse has set the bar high with amazing designs and top-quality service



coverstory

FINDING A CAREER PATH CAN COME AS THE RESULT OF A FORTUITOUS

ENCOUNTER. IT CAN BE INHERITED FROM ONE’S PARENTS. IT CAN BE

PERCEIVED AS FATE. OR IT CAN SIMPLY BE DICTATED BY SOMEONE

WHO KNOWS BETTER. THAT SOMEONE CAN BE A FAMILY MEMBER

OR AN AUTHORITY FIGURE, SO WHY NOT A GUIDANCE COUNSELLOR?

THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO E. PIUS KAUFMANN WHEN HE

WAS STILL A SCHOOL STUDENT IN HIS NATIVE SWITZERLAND. AS HE

RECALLS IT, “THIS PERSON CAME IN, ASKED ME A LIST OF QUESTIONS

AND THE UNDISPUTED OUTCOME WAS THAT I HAD TO BE A GOLDSMITH.”

Double Cascade diamond necklace with Cascade diamond drop earrings



coverstory

That option sounded right to Kaufmann, who started to work as an apprentice, both in Basel and Geneva. However, Switzerland proved to be too small for him. “I wanted to see the world,” he explains. “This was in the early fifties and I wanted to have an experience abroad. I tried to go to the U.S. but the visa was going to take too long. Then I went to the Canadian embassy: they were interested in me, treated me very well and managed to get me a visa in only two weeks.”

As a result, E. Pius arrived in Montreal in 1953, where he started working at Birks. His craftsmanship and design flare stood out and soon he started winning design competitions, such as the Diamonds International Awards (Kaufmann de Suisse won the prestigious competition six times in total).

After just a year of arriving in Canada, E. Pius Kaufmann started his own business. Since the very beginning he decided he would only sell his own creations: “We do everything, from design to the final piece.” That certainly set him apart from other jewellers who were just retailers.

Brand recognition was achieved not only through awards but also thanks to word of mouth and signature collections such as the Flowing Lines. Inspired by women’s curves, the symmetry of Art Deco and the fluidity of Art Nouveau, Flowing Lines was born 15 years ago and has been a success ever since. “It’s bold and feminine at the same time,” as the jewellers themselves describe it.

Little by little the Kaufmann family became involved in the business. As Kaufmann puts it: “I told my oldest son money needed to be earned, and that’s how he became an apprentice.” In time both his sons, Christopher and Charles, joined Kaufmann de Suisse, as did his daughter, Moneca. To this day, Charles and Moneca are still working with their father; him more

focused on design, her more on the business aspect of the company.

Kaufmann de Suisse has also expanded geographically, first to Palm Beach, in 1994 and then to New York in 2002. Though the New York store has closed down since, the Palm Beach location keeps growing strong. “We decided on having a store in Palm Beach for two reasons: to follow our clients who vacation there and to reach a new clientele,” explains Moneca. Time showed

it was a smart decision indeed. People tend to purchase more while on vacation. “And it’s also a time when men and women are finally together again, which makes them more inclined to shop for jewellery,” she adds.

As to how Moneca became involved in the family business, well, that’s another story … ”I’ve been exposed to it my whole life, since I was a kid,” she admits. Still, she first embraced a career as an equity analyst. She did her MBA in Europe, became a top analyst and opened her own discretionary money management company.

owever, all of Moneca’s achievements weren’t strong enough to keep her away from the

jewellery industry. “I’ve always admired the passion my dad pours into it and the beauty of the pieces,” she explains. A chance encounter with a dolphin also put things into perspective for her: “One day, after scuba diving in the ocean in Mexico, I met this dolphin. We looked at each other and right then and there I knew I had to join my father in his business. I saw it as an

opportunity to develop myself as a human being.” So, the next time he asked her to come work to the store, she said yes. “You sometimes have to take risks and go out of your comfort zone,” she says.

She didn’t have a background in sales and admits she was nervous about servicing clients at first, since she believes they should be served with



coverstory

utmost knowledge. She was definitely hesitant to get behind the store counter and remembers how happy she was after closing her first sale: “I was terrified of going to the sales floor; the first piece I sold was a girl’s gold ring.” Ultimately, you have to believe in what you’re selling. “The most wonderful thing is to be able to sell what you make yourself,” she adds.

t first, Moneca didn’t know she was a good salesperson. In fact, she was very surprised to realize she was the one who sold most chocolate bars at school (in Grade 6). Determination is what kept her knocking on

every door until she sold the last bar. However, jewellery is obviously very specific. That’s why she complemented her days at the store with gemology classes in the evening, until she obtained her certification from the GIA. It was exhausting but definitely worth it.

Knowledge is key in any business venture. In Moneca’s case, that means she can educate clients on the beauty of gemstones and, thanks to her business background, also help them consider them as an investment. “Diamonds are a great way of getting out of the currency risks. Coloured diamonds, for instance, have seen their prices increase 15 per cent a year since the 70’s.” That’s why, when people ask them if the soaring prices of gold and diamonds have negatively affected their business, she responds that, in the contrary, it has actually brought in more customers.There’s still work to be done on the education front. “Perception is that everything we sell is too expensive, which is not true,” Moneca says. Of course some pieces are, and deservingly so. “We recently sold a $1.5-million, 2-carat blue diamond that was made into a beautiful ring,”

“Flowing Lines was born 15 years ago and has been a success ever since.”

ABOVE: Jasmin de Nuit earrings with diamonds and yellow sapphires; LEFT:

Jasmin de Nuit diamond rings in 18k gold


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coverstory

50

n that respect, the Kaufmanns understand that making their own jewellery gives them an advantage over other retailers. As Moneca explains it, “we are able to offer a superior product for a better price; we know what our costs are and that gives us more flexibility. We can also offer something more customized, which lowers the risk of purchase, especially for men. It attracts people who are looking

for unique pieces. In addition, we can really do quality control, to ensure our products last a lifetime.” The only external brands Kaufmann de Suisse carry are Patek Philippe and Carl F. Bucherer watches, which they distribute in exclusivity in Quebec.

As for what the future holds, Moneca is optimistic: “There is a market for high-end, unique jewellery.” However, she feels the industry in Canada is being burdened by excessive taxation, which in turn discourages many customers of buying jewellery in our country, as well as promoting a proliferation of sales “under the table.” Another perennial challenge is finding the right salespeople, ones with the integrity and the knowledge their clients expect. Moneca admits it can be a frustrating, never-ending process yet she also feels “that sometimes good salespeople just find you.”

Kaufmann de Suisse has a long tradition – over 50 years – to honour and also keeps moving forward. Among their plans: a new, comprehensive website and the implementation of a customer relationship management system. In addition to that, they’re launching a new jewellery collection called Jardins de la Mer. This sea-inspired line plays with seashell shapes and promises to be very popular among customers. Also in the works, something that will take their business to the next level: having other retailers carry their jewellery lines. Even though nothing has been finalized yet, the Kaufmanns are already looking into select retailers to partner with.

Moneca’s future will center more on advancing the business side of the company and designing pieces with her brother Charles, and she admits she will continue to serve some special clients, “not because they spend more money than others but because I have a relationship with them.”

E. Pius Kaufmann was a young man who wanted to see the world. He’s been showing us, for over 50 years, how beautiful the world can be. [CJ]

Flowing Diamonds bracelets


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productfocus

by IrIna Lytchak

As the jewellery industry continues to emerge from the remnants of the recession, we see an old yet classic staple reinvent itself in order to appeal to the younger generation. Industry experts and retailers are continuously reporting a surging trend of an “edgier” look for pearls. Not to say that the timeless one strand pearl necklace that Audrey Hepburn wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s has lost its charm, yet manufacturers are trying their best to capture the tastes

of the more youthful crowd by mixing pearls with heavier materials and creating bulkier looks with layering and more colour.

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CJ_GlobalWealth.indd 1 7/8/11 5:18:55 PM

Freshwater cultured copper color pearl & peather cuff bracelet, Stuller

Tahitian & freshwater cultured black pearl cuff bracelet, Stuller


productfocus

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Think … “edgy”

According to Lucy Stein, an industrial designer at MCD Pearl Imports, various brands are “making styles that are less girly atnd classic, like the single strand pearl necklace” by combining hard and soft materials. Stein specifically references the “biker aesthetic”: the use of leathers, chains, and lots of layering to transform the expected feminine image of pearls into a more intense design. Vice-president of Stuller Inc., Michael M. Clarke, also adds that “Tahitian cultured pearls combined with leather and/or sterling silver are being shown in some markets as wrist wear and as cufflinks to be worn ‘business casual.’”

heirloom no more

Clarke points out that amidst the resurgence of pearl jewellery, it is also no longer an heirloom-only item: “Pearls are for the fashion literate, for the self-purchase accessory consumer and for those wishing to be associated with the organic production of these remarkable gemstones.” Many retailers add that there are still the more mature consumers out there that opt for the classic look of pearls, which has been instrumental in inspiring one of the most coveted trends in jewellery history.

On the other hand, the younger generation continues to push for pearl jewellery to have an “edgier” image. Hillie Schmiedhammer of Jewels by Koby adds that pearls are also trending as a great accessory purchase.

“Pearls are a nice finishing touch; a ring or a bracelet can act as a beautiful accessory to finish off any wardrobe ensemble.” Schmiedhammer also says that if a consumer is looking to invest in pearls, it’s the simple, and elegant look they should go for. “The classic look, like a pearl with diamonds all around it, is what’s going to stay around for a while,” she says.

A Trip To The SouTh SeAS

“Cultured pearls, ranging from fashionably and price-accessible freshwater pearls to the highly lustrous south sea pearls, are making appearances in almost every designer collection for fall 2011,” says Clarke. A change in the market between 2009 and 2010 has given way to a renewed interest in gemstones that may be worn as fashion accessories or a statement of elegance. The South Sea cultured pearl market has displayed an increase in pricing due to a returning demand for quality, which in turn has generated more activity at the higher end of the market. Schmiedhammer also points out that the rising cost of gold has created a shift into pairing more pearl jewellery with silver instead.

A burST of colour

A trend of vibrant colours is also making a comeback, with the individual pearls taking a slight departure from the standard off-white coloration and through the pairing of pearls with multi-coloured gemstones and

Leather chains and lots of layering are transforming the image of pearls.

Freshwater cultured pearl wrap bracelet, Stuller


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Sterling silver Elle jewellry “Mascara” Collection double row genuine grey pearl open cuff bangle

Sterling silver Elle jewellry “Fimbria” Collection genuine grey pearl wire necklace

1/3 ct tw freshwater cultured pearl & diamond-hinged, two finger ring, Stuller


productfocus

56

PEARL ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE

semi-precious stones. “Single pearl drops and better quality pearls set in combination with vibrantly coloured gemstones are also in demand,” says Clarke. “While white is the primary pearl of choice this season, work with grays, blacks and certain pastels continues to provide interesting contrasts when combined with seasonably fashionable quartz gemstones.”

A look to the future

The events that unfolded in Japan during and following the devastating earthquake are pointing to a potential influence on the pearl industry trends. Because the growth process of a single pearl takes a substantial amount of time, the real effects of the quake won’t be noticed until after a few years have passed. Stein says that there are no immediate effects on the pearl market at the moment but that the pollution from the quake will eventually take its toll. [CJ]

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Because culturing of pearls had its start using Akoya pearls,

it could be said that they are the grandparents of the modern pearl family. Akoyas, the classic cultured pearls, range in sizes from 3 mm to 10mm, come in white or gold body colour with a variety of beautiful pink, yellow and green hues. Most Akoyas are round and are known for their intense, brilliant luster.

South Sea cultured pearls are considered one of the most exclusive of all cultured pearl varieties and come in three varieties: white, golden and black.

South Sea whites, known for their extraordinary size and satiny luster, range in size from 8 mm up to 18 mm and larger. Their size and beauty puts them in a class by themselves.

South Sea golden are mainly cultured in the Philippines, and have golden orbs as rich in color as 24-kt yellow gold. They range in size from 8 mm to 18 mm. The glow from these pearls is warm and embracing.

South Sea blacks are also known as Tahitian cultured pearls. They possess an exotic palette of unique colours from light gray to midnight black, some with intense overtones of pistachio, aubergine and blue. They range in size from 8 mm to 17 mm. Tahitians are the perfect contradiction: on one hand they are edgy enough for jeans yet so classy they complement any gown.

Freshwater cultured pearls are the youngest members of the pearl family. They are cultivated in Japan, the United States, but most of all, China. In addition to their standard shapes, freshwaters are known for their exotic ones and are considered the most versatile of all the cultured pearl varieties. They are produced in great abundance and offer an affordable colour palette that includes pink, orange, lavender, white and enhanced trendy colours. Freshwater cultured pearls present an affordable option to many customers.

Noble Gift Packaging514.278.8500www.noblepack.com

PAJ/Elle888.520.8802www.ellejewellery.ca

PH Design416.367.2870www.phdesign.ca

Ready Mounts416.366.4046www.readymounts.com

Shiny Jewellers416 367.0707www.shinyjewellers.com

Stuller337.262.7700www.stuller.com


PH Design | 149 CHurCH street | 2nD Floor | toronto, ontario | M5B 1Y4(416) 367-2870 | [email protected] | www.PHDesign.Ca

at PH Design, our full service workshop can produce a single ring or a large complicated order with ease. with over 25 experienced jewellery craftsmen whose specialities include custom design, the creation of waxes, moulds and CnC generated jewellery, your order will go out on time and on budget. let PH Design be a solution provider for your most complicated custom orders. For more information, please schedule an appointment or visit us online at www.phdesign.ca

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If you’ve been paying attention, yellow gold has reclaimed its position as a style “must have”. Warm up your look with a custom designed gold accent from PH Design.


CJ_PHdesign.indd 1 7/8/11 1:21:19 PM


companyprofile | ReadyMounts

READY MOUNTS CELEBRATES 25 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY.

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ReadyMounts | companyprofile

As any well-seasoned businessperson knows, finding what the market needs and then providing it is key to making it out there. Doing it year after year, well, that’s certainly a challenge, one that George Myslicki couldn’t resist.

It all started back in the days when he used to work for his father-in-law, who owned a jewellery store. He soon realized he didn’t enjoy the hours and wasn’t crazy about dealing with customers either. “I liked the technical aspect of the business,” he explains. However, the experience helped him find out what he should concentrate his efforts on: “At the time, there was a bit of a void in the casting industry, the service was not what it should be and everything took two, three, four days to get done.”

He then decided that was a good starting point for his own company. His game-changing plan was to deliver castings back to the client in 24 hours. It’s always a good idea to focus on one thing and do it well, especially when you’re starting a small business. Thus, in 1986, Ready Mounts was born.

The first years were certainly hard. His wife, Edith, who soon joined him, remembers “sometimes working until midnight or two in the morning.” The effort was needed if they wanted to provide a service that was not only faster but also of better quality. Of course, after 25 years, they’ve got the hang of it! “Since then we started casting every day, every colour of gold, every karat,” says George. What started just with him and an apprentice is today a well-established, expanding company who employs 16 people.

The nature of the business has also evolved and has gotten more demanding. “When we started it was very basic,” explains George. “Customers brought a mold in or used our molds, we injected a wax and did the casting. Today there is a lot more custom jewellery involved. And that’s where we try to specialize.” Again, he saw where the market was headed and got there first. With most of the mass production moving overseas, the smart thing to do was to focus on custom-made jewellery. It goes without saying that that brought a new set of challenges. “There’s more labour involved in casting today,” he notes. “Because we deal with handmade pieces and waxes, they have to be handled with care. With the old wax, if it broke it didn’t matter. However, if the customer brings in a one-of-a-kind piece, you have to be extremely careful with it.”

The service Ready Mounts offers has

also gotten increasingly more complex and comprehensive. As George describes it: “Some customers have the software, and they design the jewellery pieces themselves, then email us the file, we print it and make the piece for them. Some customers, though, just send us a picture and we take it from there all the way to the finished product. We basically start with any concept, idea or design, and we take it to whatever stage they want us

to.” Some will want us to do it completely to the very end. They don’t want the headache of running around. We basically cover all

parts of thte production industry. Whatever they want us to do, we will do it for them.” To make that possible, their son Michael – who is a jewellery designer, CAD expert and, according to their parents “a perfectionist” – joined

the company and leads a design team of four.

The company also counts on the invaluable input of their daughter Kimberly, who studied business and

became a GIA-certified gemstone expert and who is willing to take Ready Mounts to the next step. That

includes setting up a website with e-commerce that will allow customers even in remote locations to get everything

they need, without having to order on American websites and deal with all the over-the-border hassle that entails.

Another initiative that sets their company apart from the competition is the CZ Sample Collection. For about $1,000 retailers can get up to 40 ring replicas in any style, which certainly provides them with flexibility – after a customer picks one style, then the ring can be handmade and customized at Ready Mounts. A measure of how popular the collection has become is the fact that the program just started last year and is already present at 120 retailers.

Some people swear by their old-fashioned machinery and some can’t live without their high-tech tools. The Myslickis wanted to be extra cautious and rely on both. “You can’t stop production because your machines aren’t working,” says Edith. That’s why they keep “back-up” machines available – some of them built by George himself – at all times. That

fact has brought them continuous business, even some provided by their own competitors dealing with malfunctioning machinery.

Finding a niche in the market and being ahead of the game have always been priorities for George. “I was the first guy in Toronto to cast platinum commercially,” exemplifies him. That mentality – shared by the whole family – is the only way to keep you in business. Especially for 25 years. [CJ]

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Among the many trends that surfaced at JCK Vegas, one was evident:It’s time for customized, make-it-your own jewellery.


JCKVEGAS2011

All pieces from Vianna Brasil. Clockwise from top left: Eternity Earrings, Raffinatto earrings, Colar Citta necklace, Anel Urban Chess ring.

by Carlos Weigle

Whenever you attend an event such as JCK Vegas, the first word that comes to mind is “big.” The 2011 edition of

North America’s largest jewellery trade show certainly didn’t disappoint. The numbers speak for themselves: more than 20,000 buyers, including over 600 VIP retail stores attended this year, which represents a 16 per cent increase over 2010. The new venue at the Mandalay Bay pleased most people and provided a change of scenery for those who’ve been attending the show every year.

The mood was obviously harder to gauge. Some were proclaiming the recession is finally over and, although that might be right for certain companies, the truth is that caution was still palpable. That feeling of optimism and a dash of uncertainty has prompted some manufacturers and retailers to stick to what’s safe – the bridal market – while others are taking the route of innovation in an attempt to stand out from the crowd.

One of the key trends seems to be customizable jewellery and finding new ways to make each piece unique to the person wearing it. Pandora, Chamilia and Moress are just some of the brands that are still doing very well with the charms & beads frenzy, which taps into that desire for individuality. Even so, Pandora is already adding some non-bead but equally customizable pieces, such as layering necklaces and watches with interchangeable straps and bezels.

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In stock tennis bracelet mounts in classic styles.

215 Victoria St. Suite B3, Toronto, Ontario M5B 1T9Tel: 416.366.4046 Fax: 416.366.5162 Toll Free: 1-877.365.5552

E-mail: [email protected] www.readymounts.com

In stock finished mounts and semi mounts.

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JCKVEGAS2011

Bastian: 1. Bangle in floral design in sterling silver; 2. Bold pendant in sterling silver with rose gold and ruthenium plating; 3. Earhangers, in sterling silver with culturted sweetwater pearl; 4. Ring in sterling silver with amethyst 2.5 ct; 5. Pendant in drop-form in sterling silver; 6. Turnable Heart pendant in sterling silver partly rose gold plated. Winner of JCK award 2011 in mixed metals category. Designed by René Hofmann; Charles P Bahringer: A. Tribeca wood inlay ring; B. XXL bracelet; C. Armor Plate cufflinks; D. Structure money clip

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Kameleon, a Canadian company, is bringing its own twist to that trend. The innovative “jewel pops” allow customers to easily change the jewel featured in bracelets, earrings and pendants. As with beads, “jewel pops” are collectible, which allows for returning customers.

FIND YOUR NICHE

Another smart strategy is to find a niche market. One successful example of that is Canadian brand Bfly. The company, which focuses on jewellery for kids that is ultra-resistant and hypoallergenic (and extremely cute), as well as the Inverness piercing system, recently closed a deal to have its products distributed in France by Groupe GL. The French company is well known for distributing brands such as Lacoste, Kenzo and Disney. A deal like that is no small feat.

Men’s jewellery is another underserved market. While male customers are more and more interested in wearing jewellery, brands are somehow lagging behind. Canadian company La Bréa saw an opportunity and presented its own men’s collection by designer Charles P. Bahringer, which attracted a lot of interest at the show. The same can be said about Crown Ring, which launched its men’s collection, designed by the Excellence in Design award winner, Noam Carver (see story on page 70).

Whoever said there’s no more room to grow should talk to Rony Tennenbaum, a jewellery designer who decided to create his own line of engagement and wedding bands for gay & lesbian couples and who is experiencing great success.


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JCKVEGAS2011

Counter Clockwise from Top: Busatti Red Wing Beat; Busatti Spilla Liberty; Zeevog Susie bracelet; Zeevog Ricardo pendant

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Likewise, innovation always manages to turn heads. Stuller, for instance, presented a pilot project in association with Sony that allows clients to see 3-D, rotating representations of their custom-made pieces. Sometimes, innovation is both on the technical and design sides. Take Zeevog, for instance. After six years of research and development, a group of diamantaires created the Diamond in a Diamond brand which, as the name implies, offers pieces where a diamond is encrusted within a diamond of contrasting colours without any visible metals, to create seamless and prong-less diamond jewellery. Pretty impressive, if you ask me.

THE WORLD AT YOUR FEET

The international presence was also very strong at JCK and provided, at least in some cases, a breath of fresh air. An honorable mention is Bastian-Inverun, one of Germany’s top jewellery makers. Their pieces – precious stones set in both sterling silver and gold – are modern and simply stunning. When we talked to them at the show they said they were looking into expanding into Canada (they have limited presence in our country), which is good news.

Another international brand that garnered attention was Vianna. The Brazilian company showcased some beautiful pieces, characterized by the use of local gemstones such as imperial topaz, tourmaline, aquamarine, beryl, among others, with designs inspired by the nature and culture of the South-American country.


An Evening of Glitter and HopeJVC Jewellers’ Ball



An Evening of Glitter and Hope

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

C r i m e p r e v e n t i o n • r e s o u r C e p r o t e C t i o n • s A f e t y A w A r e n e s s

Join Jewellers Vigilance Canada for the Annual Jewellers’ BallHighlights of the evening include:

Cocktails and a silent auction start at 6:30 p.m. Dinner and dancing at 8:00 p.m.

Canadian Jeweller’s 2011 excellence in Design Awards

Saturday, November 5, 2011four seasons Hotel tickets are $295.00 per person + Hstregency Ballroom tables seat 10 21 Avenue road, toronto Black tie. valet parking.

For more information call 416-368-4840 or 800.636.9536 or e-mail [email protected]

0443 JVC Black Tie_F.indd 1 6/17/11 9:22:17 AM

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JCKVEGAS2011

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Needless to say, the Italian pavilion was a mandatory stop for those trekking the aisles at JCK. Their design continues to be unparalleled and it would be impossible to highlight just one of their brands. It was also the place to be to watch great clothing and style (kudos to some of the people handling their booths!).

Newer but powerful players such as India and Hong Kong also made their mark. Asian markets in general were the centre of attentions (and many of the conversations), as their rapidly expanding upper classes are craving for luxury goods and fine jewellery. On the not so bright end of conversations, they were also mentioned as possible culprits of the intense pricing wars.

Not too worried about that were the Swiss watchmakers present at the show, whose brands are showing incredible growth in Asian markets. In fact, many of the companies presented new models and reinforced the notion started at Baselworld that at least they can put the recession worries behind.

Other exhibitors also showed optimism and reported a good outcome from JCK. Steve Turac, from TIG Group, was happy with the results obtained by some of the brands they represent, including Ritani, Ostbye and Imperial Pearls. The same could be said about their partners, the Julius Klein Group, which brought some amazing diamonds to the event.

Top: Pandora’s new necklace concept: chains in sterling silver with rhodonite and 14k gold accents. Bottom left to right; Pandora’s breast cancer awareness ribbon charm – 14k gold with pink sapphire, Pandora’s new limited edition breast cancer awareness bead – 14k gold and pink enamel, Sterling silver Pandora bracelets and clips from the Pandora Moments collection, Pandora’s new breast cancer awareness bead – Sterling silver and pink enamel, Pandora’s breast cancer awareness ribbon charm – Sterling silver with pink zirconia.

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Speaking of diamonds, they were on most people’s minds. Along with gold, investors showed great interest in them, as a way to escape the uncertainties of economies and currencies worldwide. In that respect, Eden Rachminov, of Rachminov Diamonds said coloured diamonds are becoming more and more popular due to their beauty, dwindling supply and soaring prices.

The rising prices of gold also meant an abundance of silver, platinum and other metals at JCK, presented in creative and stunning ways. PAJ Elle and its sterling silver pieces, for instance, were a big hit at the show. The brand’s Canadian designer Claire Vessot and its creative director, Olivier Assouline, received the admiration from happy customers and retailers alike.

The show was big, as expected. The jewellery was stunning (for the most part). The conversations, business deals and new ideas were the main reason why JCK Vegas is still the place to be. [CJ]


JCKVEGAS2011

All pieces from Chamilia. Clockwise from top: Swarovski Collection Pink; various charm pieces; TC Poster bracelet; Chamilia Chocolate Wine Flex bangle; Swarovski Collection Blue Bead Toss; Iconic Elegance Teardrop

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Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

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designerprofile | NoamCarver

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By Bonnie Siegler

Canadian designer Noam Carver makes an impact with his innovative men’s collection

The learning process is, oftentimes, very frustrating. An unskilled, 18 year-old Noam Carver realized that while he sat in the Montreal workshop of Italian jewellery designer Paolo Vena. It was there where he struggled to learn the

very difficult skills of jewellery making, often feeling overwhelmed and angered. “I’d ask `how do you do this and how do you do that,’” reflects the now 31-year old designer who received the Excellence in Design award last year in Toronto (a culmination of various awards running the gamut from placing second in the men’s jewellery category at the Bench Conference Passion Awards to being one of the winners at

the Centurion Emerging Designer competition). But with no forthright responses from Vena during his apprenticeship, Carver was confused. “All along I thought he really wasn’t teaching me much, yet therein lies the secret. The true art of jewellery making is the process of problem solving, learning how to think and formulate ideas. A skilled master jeweller can visualize his process ten steps ahead and plan out an approach for creating a piece.” Learning how to hold a file, the correct method of using a saw, and ultimately feeling comfortable working with tools and developing a certain touch can be taught, but “all this has to come from within and it is a lengthy and difficult path.”


72 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m72 CJ A u G u S T 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

After his apprenticeship, he went back to school and enrolled in the fine arts program at Concordia University majoring in sculpture and studio art. During this time period, Carter was exposed to art history and the practice of conceptual art. With his educational endeavors divided between jewellery making and art school, Noam says “both practices helped shape my outlook and creative process.” With the emergence of CAD design, his creative process was given a new tool of which to exploit. That was when his first design piece – a ring with interlocking components and medieval designs – was born. He has since successfully combined analytical mechanical engineering with the creative design process in his pieces. “The ability to create a piece of jewellery with multiple components allows for a finer assembly and a better finish. I wanted to create pieces with multiple components that interlock in new ways. What mechanical engineers had at their disposal was now at my fingertips.”

FIND YOUR NICHE

Over the years, Carver’s passion for jewellery design has only grown and evolved. “It’s skill and knowledge,” he states on his progressive development. “As I mature and am exposed to new things, my frame of reference expands. Too many people live their lives in routines, consumed with fears – fear of change, fear of new beginnings, fear of personal growth.” Never wanting to live his life in that fashion, Carver puts himself in unfamiliar territory and continues to grow by pulling himself out of his comfort zone in order to experience life. “As my skill level evolves, so then does my

desire to create and innovate.” Segueing out of his comfort zone emerged the challenge of competitions that sharpened his design skills. “Every competition you try and top yourself, you attempt to create pieces that will stun judges and beat out the competition. It’s a real personal challenge and, as you continue to compete, your experience in pushing the limits grows.” The need for constant evolution hasn’t stopped Carver from learning from other masters. In fact, today he works with the classic methods and traditions of jewellery making from centuries past. As he points out, “I have always loved history, whether it was the Egyptian, Mayan or Roman”

ecently, Carver has aligned himself with

Crown Ring, a Canadian premiere wedding band manufacturer. “We decided to start off with a men’s silver and 18k gold line,” says the innovative young designer, who hopes to make an impact on the entire industry with his men’s collection. “This year in JCK Las Vegas, the one thing I kept hearing over and over again were retailers looking for men’s designs.” Recognizing that this segment of jewellery making might be lacking in originality and creative construction, Carver says, “I have never respected designers who adapt known objects or symbols from popular culture and miniaturize them for jewellery. My goal has always been to create a completely new aesthetic. Men are fascinated with complexity and detail; the challenge

is in fusing these elements in a look that caters to every man. Fashion is evolving and so are men; they are more aware of the way they look, adapting quicker to new trends.” Carver is first to point out that the men’s jewellery market is ripe for a transformation in modernization and innovation.

In his Apex men’s collection, Carver has fused organic elements and futuristic designs. “The Apex pattern can be interpreted as a topographical landscape but it is constructed with geometric shapes,” explains the designer. “Geometric patterns are becoming more and more popular in architecture and in all forms of design. Every piece appears as it is constructed much like an airplane would be, with a shell and multiple panels fitting over it.” Using multiple component designs gives Carter the flexibility to play with color by “changing panels to either 18k yellow gold, silver or blackened silver.” In addition to shapes and patterns, he finds innovation in the use of semi-precious stones such as onyx, lapis, and mother of pearl. “I went to great lengths to source and collect rare stones but the biggest constraint was consistency. The Apex quartz has now become a new tangent in which to explore.”

The reception his collection has received from retailers worldwide has spawned energy in its distribution, but the creative vigor for 2012 has already begun with the expansion of the Apex line. “It consists of rings, pendants, cufflinks and bracelets.” Yet Carter adds that he has set a goal to return to his design roots in the coming year: “Going back to how it all first started – women’s jewellery.” [CJ]

designerprofile | NoamCarver


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74 CJ a u g u s t 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

High-end watch brands are enjoying a rebound in business, declaring the end of the Great Recession—the biggest

downturn ever in watches and luxury goods. While things are improving for retail jewellers in North America, however, the recovery is slow. Facing higher gold prices, retail jewellers are hoping more affordable price points will keep consumers spending.

This trading down has occurred not only in jewellery, but also in watches. Consumers who

easily snapped up brand-name watches at $5,000 to $10,000 before the recession are now restocking with less expensive brands under $3,000. In effect, stores that formerly carried only “fine” watch brands have added fashion watch collections at much lower price points.

Although watchmaking purists often hold fashion watch brands in contempt, these value brands are more in demand than ever. In spite of the fact that 2009 was a low point for all watch sales, fashion watches – those retailing for $350 and lower – experienced a strong rebound.

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backinfashion

Ladies’ fashion watches are magic again at retail

by Jeff Prine

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w w w . p i e r r e l a u r e n t . c o mAug 7-9#1614

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backinfashion

A good trend21 cents } Fashion watch sales increase in North America in 2010, in dollar terms9 per cent } Sales increase in sold units$50-$350 } 52 per cent of sales were in that price range$97 } Average unit retail price

According to consumer spending reports by The NPD Group, a leading consumer research company, 2010 fashion watch sales in North America surged by 21 cents in dollar terms and 9 per cent in units. Moreover, consumers actually traded up in fashion watches: 52 per cent of sales were in the $50 to $350 price range. The average unit retail was $97.

timepieces for A new generAtion

The uptick in sales was driven mainly by the ladies’ segment, especially those aged between 18 and 34, a target demographic for nearly every retail channel. Although NPD found that women aged 35 to 54 accounted for 37 per cent of all sales, the biggest increase in selling occurred among women under the age of 35, accounting for 27 per cent of sales. Even better, more than half of transactions were made at regular price, not on sale – so much for the notion that the younger generation only uses their hand-helds to tell time!

Some of this upswing could be attributed to “frugal fatigue,” as consumers reacted to pent-up demand. Indeed, one of the hottest fashion watch brands at retail has been Fossil’s Michael Kors brand, which grew from US$150 million in sales in 2009 to about US$250 million in 2010. It is also testament to the fashion watch brands’ ability to carefully capitalize on fashion trends, colours, new materials and the idea of a fashion watch as a fashion accessory.

Above: Swatch Full Blooded collection. Right: Kenneth Cole Automatics collection with ceramic bracelet; Following page: BCBG Chroma collection


MYSTERYcollection

swiss made

Ref. # 24926.40

Steel case & braceletwith ceramic links

26 full cut genuine diamonds

SWISS MADE - www.rodaniacanada.com

RODANIA CANADA INC.1255 University St., # 508Montreal, Qc., H3B 3V8

Tel.: 514 842-9136Fax: 514 842-9137Toll Free: 1-877-RODANIA (763-2642)[email protected]

Visit us at the Montreal Expo Prestige Jewellery showfrom the 28th - 30th of August - Booth # 619 - 623


CJ_Rodania_Rodania.indd 1 7/8/11 1:27:45 PM


Here are a few key trends emerging for 2011 in fasHion watcHes:

• Rose gold PVD- or IP-plating, especially in ceramic styles, in black, white and chocolate brown. An emerging colour is frosty grey PVD, also combined with rose gold in bicolour styles.

• Ceramics come in all white and all black versions, but now include similar styles in brown and gunmetal. Details on cases and bracelets include shiny and matte finishes in combinations.

• Colour: Besides omnipresent black and white styles, pinks now are more fuchsia, a version of Pantone’s colour of the year: honeysuckle. Purple is the widespread favorite for fall into holiday, including vivid purple to a deep aubergine. Greens are an important colour in fashion this fall, but the khaki-like greens seen in most brands were more successful as men’s looks.

• The latest metal to watch: aluminum, which was also used in several high-end brands, returns at all price points in watches, this time in PVD plating in gold tones, bronzes and in colours, including aubergines, blues, and greys.

• Enamel cases and dial details in more colours than can be found in ceramics. Many have a 60’s-mod look à la Courrèges.

• Oversized chain or status-look link bracelets usually in yellow gold plate, but also in white and black.

• Oversized “boyfriend” cases continued to sell, making many larger watches (about 40 mm or above), basically unisex. However, most brands now have scaled-down versions, especially in sport-watch styles with cases ranging from 34 mm, 36 mm or 38 mm. Feminine details are also important, including mother-of-pearl dials, coloured, white or grey straps in silicon or leather.

• Animal print looks are still important in dial and strap designs, but the latest additions are tortoise, horn and ivory looks made from an acetate blend that’s very durable. The material is used in bracelets and cases alone or combined with metal.

• Link bracelets in ceramic, steel, aluminum and silicone are growing in popularity, particularly in women’s styles. Uptrending look: return of mesh styles in silver, black, white, brown, browns and rose plate.

• Crystal accents are still important, especially as diamond prices increase. Like many high-end jewellery brands, baguette-cut crystals as increasingly being used in white, black and gem colours such as ruby, sapphire and amethyst.

• Petites, the update of the small-scale “nurse” watch, are present across many brands. In fashion lines, they are mostly jewellery-oriented styles. Smaller-sized cases – about 26 mm or less –address the Asian market, and are considered less fashionable in North America.

• All-black watches, even in chronographs, dive and other sports styles, are popular with women, too. Many use all-black crystals on the dial or bezels, or add a touch of colour.

• Straps continue to be dominated by silicon or rubber styles, but patent leather, distressed leather and metallic leather looks should be added for fall/holiday. Fashion colourways include aubergine, ox blood and grey/taupe.

As the business has grown, so has the diversity in fashion watch offerings. Gone are the days when fashion watches were mere arm candy, consisting of brightly coloured, mostly plastic or silicon cases and straps. While those bright pops of colour remain important, fashion watch brands have expanded into new materials. Some, like ceramic, were inspired by higher-priced brands such as Chanel and Rado. Fashion watches have also begun to feature automatic mechanical movements. Geneva Watch Group layered in some Japanese-made automatic mechanicals in its Kenneth Cole and BGBC Max Azria collections, which retails from about $225 to $250. The styles all have transparent windows in the dial exposing the movements. While relatively new at retail, the style initially performed well, says Pamela Roccabruna, Geneva’s marketing director. “The exposed dials add a richness and a greater perceived value.”

Fashion watch brands walk a fine line between offering affordable fashion and adding perceived value that would command price points hovering around $200. Even in silicone colour styles, brands point out that the material covers stainless steel links or cases, making the styles more durable. [CJ]

backinfashion


RASMUSOfficial watch of the German national apnea diving team

at 3000 ft below the surfaceat least your watch will be fine.

Don’t worry...

Muehle-Glashuette Canada LtdTel: 613.288.0650 Fax: 613.235.2472Email: [email protected]

AUGUST 12TH-14TH

BOOTH #620

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JVC

While most police focus on jewellery thieves, the “fences” still go unpunished. Over the last decade Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has focused on crime against the Canadian jewellery and watch industry. We have made solid strides in engaging law enforcement to help fight these criminals. The task is daunting but an important fight. We asked John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention, what happens to all this stolen merchandise. We think you will be surprised to hear about an Afghanistan connection and which “real thief ” is getting away.

— Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC

WHERE DOES STOLEN JEWELLERY GO?BY JOHN LAMONT, JVC’S DIRECTOR OF CRIME PREVENTION

XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 80 7/8/11 7:40:15 PM


JVCJVC

DRUGS AND TERRORISM — A car is parked outside a shopping mall in Timmins, Ont. In the car is a local drug dealer while inside the mall a young teenager is in a jewellery store, talking on a cell phone describing the diamonds on display to the drug dealer parked outside. Within minutes the teenager asks to see a solitaire diamond. When the ring is given to him he runs from the store with the diamond, which is then used to pay a drug debt. There is no doubt that a large amount of stolen jewellery is used to purchase or pay drug debts. But it goes much deeper than that. ¶ Recently, a major Canadian Police Department wrapped up a long, intensive investigation of a gang that was robbing jewellery retailers and using the money to buy heroin. The heroin came from Afghanistan. It has been widely reported that heroin from Afghanistan is used by the Taliban to buy weapons which are used to kill Canadians and other coalition Forces. ¶ FENCE OPERATIONS AND INDEPENDENT JEWELLERS — In May of this year the FBI in the United States busted a nationwide “grab and go “theft ring that ran out of Detroit. Nineteen people have been charged. The stolen merchandise was being sold to local jewellers. These thieves not only knowingly purchased the stolen jewellery, they also recruited young men to commit the thefts. They planned the jobs and told the young thieves what items they wanted, especially Rolex watches and large diamond rings. They increased their inventory with other company’s property, sold it for huge profit, and were able to beat the legitimate jeweller’s price. This does not just happen in the United States, it takes place in Canada as well. ¶ PAWNSHOPS AND SECOND-HAND STORES — Many are legitimate businesses that may

unknowingly, because of the nature of the business, buy stolen jewellery from thieves. ¶ PERSONAL USE — In and around the Toronto area, several jewellery stores were robbed by a gang that sold the merchandise to “willfully blind” vendors in downtown Toronto as well as local jewelers in the north end of the city, and the money was used to support themselves and their families. ¶ ONLINE AUCTIONS — These outlets are used by many individual thieves. Responsible companies such as e-Bay and Kijiji have put in place programs that greatly assist property crime investigators to track down these people. ¶ FLEA MARKETS — Flea markets are numerous throughout Canada and are a quick and more profitable method of converting stolen merchandise to cash. ¶ ORGANIZED CRIME — Police departments throughout Canada have taken a much greater focus on organized jewellery crime gangs that are operating in Canada, especially South American gangs that have crossed the border from New York City and Miami. They target travelling salespeople and once they have obtained a line of jewellery the merchandise is smuggled back into New York City or Miami and sold for cash, which is used to support further criminal activities. ¶ Other organized groups are using cash obtained from selling stolen jewellery to assist in bringing family members from other countries into Canada. ¶ In all these situations the main thief is the fence who knowingly buys stolen jewellery. JVC is constantly suggesting to all police that once the bandit who enters the jewellery store or victimizes a travelling salesperson is caught, the incident is not solved; the real thief - the fence - is still out there and soliciting other criminals. [CJ]

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XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 81 7/8/11 7:40:24 PM


JOIN US AT THESE AMAZING CANADIAN TRADE SHOWS THIS AUGUST

BRIGHTSUMMER

XX-XX.CJ_TradeShows.indd 82 7/8/11 8:03:51 PM

TRADESHOWS


Sunday, August 7, 2011 10:00am – 6:00pmMonday, August 8, 2011 10:00am – 6:00pmTuesday, August 9, 2011 10:00am – 4:00pm

Metro Toronto Convention Centre North Building, Hall AB255 Front St. West | Toronto, Ontario | M5V 2W6

First-time buyers to JCK have exclusive access to a VIP Liaison who will direct you to all the tools and information you need to maximize your time at the show. Email Jennifer Swift at [email protected] for more details and to register.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 710:30 am – 11:45 am How to Sell More Color – Doug Hucker, AGTA1:00pm – 2:15pm Keynote Address: The Model Store for the

New Economy – Brad Huisken, IAS Training3:00pm – 4:15pm Responsible Jewellery Practices

Catherine Sproule, Responsible Jewellery Council

MONDAY, AUGUST 810:30am - 11:45am Increase Sales by Changing Your Habits

– Becka Johnson Kibby, The Q Report1:00pm - 2:15pm Keynote Address: Closing Techniques:

Are You Up to the Challenge?3:00pm - 4:15pm Gemstone Secrets to Success – Richard Drucker,

GemWorld International

TUESDAY, AUGUST 910:30 am – 11:45 am Partnering With Local Businesses to Drive

Their Best Customers In Your Store – James Porte, Porte Marketing

1:00pm – 2:15pm It’s Not Just the Engagement Ring…Get the

Most Out of Your Bridal Category – Brad Huisken, IAS Training

WHAT’S NEW? - JCK Toronto is pleased to announce an exiting new product awards program. Retailers, cast their vote for the best new product featured on the show floor. There will be identifying tent cards that will be placed next to the exhibitor’s product in their showcase that is up for consideration.

JCK TORONTOOVER 135 EXHIBITORS

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TRADESHOWS


Friday, August 12, 2011 10:00 am – 5:00 pmSaturday, August 13, 2011 10:00 am – 5:00 pmSunday, August 14, 2011 10:00 am – 4:00 pm

Shaw Conference Centre Halls B & C | 9797 Jasper Avenue NWEdmonton, Alberta | T5J 1N9

REGISTRATIONhttp://www.wcjexpo.com/register.php

SCHEDULEFriday Morning Educational Seminar with complimentary continental breakfast“Maximize Sales and Profits with Add-On Sales” featuring Brad Huisken, president of IAS Training. A perfect way to start the show and great way to hone your business skills.

OPENING NIGHT RECEPTIONReacquaint with industry colleagues, and make some new connections. Sponsored by Master Design & Libman, hosted by WCJE.

SATURDAY MORNING EDUCATIONAL seminar with complimentary continental breakfast – “Enhanced colourless and coloured diamonds in the market today,” featuring Branko Deljanin, president of Canadian Gemological Laboratory Inc.

SATURDAY EVENING COCKTAIL RECEPTIONHosted by Canadian Jewellery Group Co-Operative Association, Jewelers Mutual Insurance, and CJB Insurance Services. Complete with live music.

AN EVENING OF DIGEM DECADENCE Gala fund-raising dinner hosted by Digem. This event takes place at the Westin Hotel and is held in support of Prostate Cancer research.

SUNDAY MORNING EDUCATIONAL SEMINAR “Natural, Treated and Synthetic Diamonds and the Diamond Industry” featuring Branko Deljanin, president of Canadian Gemological Laboratory Inc. Advanced registration is required.

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WESTERN CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPO

OVER 90 EXHIBITORS


TRADESHOWS


Sunday, August 28, 2011 10:00 am –7:00 pmMonday, August 29, 2011 10:00 am –6:00 pm Tuesday, August 30, 2011 10:00 am – 3:00 pm

Montreal Convention Center201, Viger Avenue West | Montreal, Québec H2Z 1X7

REGISTRATIONhttp://cbq.qc.ca/adhesion/view.php?id=1

COCKTAIL RECEPTIONSUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2011 AT 7 PMImmediately after the show, the 41st anniversary of Expo Prestige will be celebrated. Wine, hot and cold appetizers will be served in a festive atmosphere. Prizes will be awarded to the winners of the contests organized within the scope of Expo Prestige 2011. If you wish to take part in the celebration, reserve your place now. No tickets will be available on site.

EXPO PRESTIGEOVER 290 EXHIBITORS


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CJ_CBQ_ExpoPrestige.indd 1 7/8/11 12:53:04 PM

showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]


703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6416.368.2690 [email protected]

catalogue available upon request

MCD PEARL IMPORTSa selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery

MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1

High quality Alarm clocks

For more models & colorsCatalogue available on request

Swiss1400 Sauve O. #227 Montreal . Qc . H4N 1C5

Tel.:514.332.9298 Fax: 514.332.4158www.bandacanada.com [email protected]

CREATIVE GEMS Inc.Serving the Industry Since 1992

Precious, Semi-precious, Loose Gemstones, Diamonds and all kinds of Beads

Now CarryingColoured Diamonds

21 Dundas Sq., Suite 712, Toronto, ON Canada M5B 1B7Tel: 647-430-8969 • Fax: 647-439-0782 • Cell: 416-319-3378

e-mail: [email protected] • website: www.mittaljewels.com

Factory: B-125, Sethi Colony, Jaipur, India

Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1

087-094.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 87 7/8/11 4:29:24 PM



88 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

bfl y.ca - bfl yusa.com

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo, August 2-4

JCK Toronto, August 7-9

Expo Prestige, August 28-30

Upcoming Shows:

Booth: 520

Booth: 827

Booth: 410





Jewelry Sales Reps. WantedCanadian Distributorship and

Authorized Retail Locations Available See us at: JA New York Show - Booth #2733

Atlanta Jewelry Show - Booth #1246

Silver Polish Pump Spray

Hagerty Distributors

H&W Perrin416-422-4600

Burney Giftware416-736-9990

Prestige Pak Inc.514-387-8888

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel514-866-1095

Habsons Jewellery Supply604-708-9700

silverpump spray

A new enhanced formula with the convenience of a pump spray. Maintains the patina of silver while guarding against tarnish for months.

Now Shipping!

Find details on our website at www.hagertycanada.ca.

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]





Since 1895

For over 100 years, Hagertyhas carried on a traditionof excellence.

The Jewellers Choice

Today, Hagerty is a worldleader in the care of preciousmetals and the popular choiceamong Canadian Jewellers.

Hagerty Distributors

H&W Perrin416-422-4600

Burney Giftware416-736-9990

Prestige Pak Inc.514-387-8888

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel514-866-1095

Habsons Jewellery Supply604-708-9700

www.hagertycanada.ca

pure beautyhas a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.Vancouver, B.C.1-800-663-1458

Online inventory

www.jwdiamonds.ca

All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1

MBDB50001CT - 18KVS2-S11

$560Machine

Set

MCDB50201.30CT - 18K

VS2-S11$675

MachineSet

MCDB50803CT - 14KVS2-S11

$1350

MBDB50151.40CT - 18K

VS2-S11$750LCDB5025

1CT - 18KVS2-S11

$515 LCDB50501.50CT - 14K

VS2-S11$735

Fits Sub& GMT

18KY - $325SS - $100

Inserts$25

LBDB50151CT - 18KVS2-S11

$550

LCDB50702CT - 14KVS2-S11

$935LDBD5005.70CT - 18K

VS2-S11$415

Your Headquarters For All Rolex Aftermarket Accessories

We Stock ManyDifferent Styles And Sizes Of Aftermarket Watchbands, Including SS, Two Tone, 14K And 18k All Gold Watchbands.

To

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elivery

888.699.8947F.S. ENTERPRISEwww.fsenterprise.com

RLPD515 18K 1.85ct $2700

RMPD500 18KY $2850

RMJ1010 SS $100

RLJ2012 18K/SS $400 Two Tone

RLO3025 18K/SS $425 Two Tone

RMJ1002 18K/SS

$575 Two Tone

RMO4055R

18K/SS

Rose Gold

$600

We Also Stock Date, Mid-size, And No Date Diamond Bezels.

F.S. Enterprise is Not Affiliated with Rolex Watch, U.S.A., Inc. Rolex is a Registered Trademark of Rolex, U.S.A., Inc.

Price based on $1000-$1100 Gold

HOTSELLER

HOTSELLER

1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM

If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace

Call: 1.888.358.8186Marsha Miller, ext. 6126

[email protected]’sWHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD

Bello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoE x c l u s i v e l y a t

l e a t h e r & s t e r l i n g

f o r m e n a n d w o m e n

1-877-80-JOHNSwww.johnswholesale.ca


A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]


FEATURING OUR MOST POPULAR COLLECTIONS

RED

NU

LLA

ONE ROOF

IMPERIAL

Krohn Industries, Inc.

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.

STONES

FOIL BACKSSYNTHETICSGENUINESMARCASITESPEARLS/SEED PEARLSBEADS/BEAD STRANDSROSE CUT GARNETSCONCAVE CUT MYSTIC TOPAZONYX/TIGER EYERUBIES/SAPPHIRES/EMERALDSPERIDOT/BLUE TOPAZCAMEOSSWAROVSKI & SIGNITY STONES8 HEART CZ/9 HEART CZAND MORE...

JEWELLERY/FINDINGS/TOOLS/DISPLAYS

WEDDING BANDSTENNIS MOUNTSRING MOUNTSRINGS, CHARMSBRACELETS/BANGLES10K, 14K, 18K, PLATINUM &STERLING SILVER JEWELLERYCHAINSITALIAN JEWELLERYFINDINGS/METAL FINDINGSTITANIUM/TUNGSTEN/COBALT &STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERYJEWELLERS TOOLSBOX & DISPLAYSAND MORE...

NEW

MARY JEWELLERY & LAPIDARY CO. LTD.and

MOUNT CENTRE JEWELLERY SUPPLY HOUSE

SERVICES WE OFFERENGRAVING OF GOLD, METALS AND GLASS

PHOTO ENGRAVINGLASER SOLDERING

RESTRINGINGWATCH GLASS CUTTING

ENAMELINGLASER ENGRAVING NEW

Happy Anniversary

Happy Anniversary

VIEW OUR CATALOGUES ONLINE @w w w . M A R Y J E W E L L E R Y . c o m

COLLECTION

• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around

• Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days

• Casting Provided

• All jobs set under microscope

• Our jobs guaranteed

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, OntarioTel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976

[email protected] • www.prestigemfg.ca

Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE



marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G



We are moving to Hong Kong.

CLOSE-OUT OFFER! All Jewellery at 80 to 85% OFF! retail value. Everything must go.No reasonable offer refused. Some items may cost less than gold/silver value by weight.

10/14 Kt Gold Jewellery from $4.Silver jewellery from $0.79/gm.

Genuine Pearl & Beads from 0.99/St.Gemstones Packages from $6/pack.

Please visit or Booth No. 728 at JCK Toronto Aug.7-9.

AffordABle creAtionS21 dundas Square, #320toronto, on M5B 1B7, canadaPh/fax: 416-551-3690, cell: 416-836-1350

our new address:#1305, 13th floor, railway Plaza39 chatham rd. t.S.t., Hong Kong

email: [email protected]

Druzy jewellery

Woven Bracelet

Stalactite pendant

from as low asComplete System $125/month

[email protected] us how ACE Webstore can get you onlineCall for your live online Demo

Track commissions, special orders & layawaysIntegrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processingPrint repair bags & Labels for jewelleryCreate your own gift cards

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1 Insurance for Customers Jewellery

cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM


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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM

• GOLD• YELLOW• WHITE• PINK• GREEN• STERLING• BRONZE

• PALLADIUM• PLATINUM• SILVADIUM• S-STEEL• PRESET• MOLDS• ALLOYS

ALLOYCOINTERNATIONAL INC

CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384Phone: 514-845-5384 • [email protected] • www.alloyco.com

55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

93 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 CJ

marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G



Accountant to reputed Canadian jewellersBookkeeping, Financial Statements, Taxes,

Budgeting and Projections

Subhash Sharma MBA, CMACertified Management Accountant

ENS Associates Inc.100 King Street West, Suite 5700, Toronto, ON M5X 1C7

Tel: 416-439-4648Email: [email protected]

Web: www.ensassociates.ca

STEWART’S HOROLOGYREPAIR & RESTORATION

• QUALITY service & attention to detail• 5 highly qualified technicians• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses• Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical• Restoration of pocket watches

1515 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3G 0W7, CanadaTel: (204) 789-9620 Email: [email protected]

YADIRA BARAHONACELL: 519-617-2468

LONDON, ONEMAIL: [email protected]

COLOMBIAN EMERALDS

DIRECT DISTRIBUTORFROM THE MINES

WHOLESALE

FOR SALE - Jewellery StoreJewellery store for sale in a 30 store shopping

centre, Tsawwassen, turn-key, $75K for � xtures. Retiring.

Tel.: 604-943-4941



marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]


CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free: 877-465 3497

9 9 9 9

E-mail:[email protected] Web: www.goldrefining.caTel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500

While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

www.goldrefining.ca

Check our State of the art Jewellery AlloysCheck Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices

At:

®

ArmandorEnterprises Inc.New Tel: 416.642.0280New Fax: 416.642.0281New Email: [email protected] Website: www.akbgold.comNew Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

New Locationin the heart of

Downtown Toronto!Now O�ering

Casting Services

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds

\ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes\ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

Over 20 Years [email protected]

Ramesh MistryTel: 416-368-6883

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

Canada’s first premium Fashion Jewellery magazine

Great to take home

4 times per year

Have ever in-store to keep your customers inspired

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PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING •• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCEIN PRECIOUS METALS TRADELET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.caTel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111

Email: [email protected]

ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd.YOUR PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology to provide you with the fastest and most accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.http://www.xau.ca


Draw Prizes1. Sign up for the JETS (Jewellery Education

Training System) Course • win a $2,000 travel voucher2. Complete Your JETS Course • win a $2,000 travel voucher

JETS is an intensive program developed by industry specialists andpresented in 16 modules on a CD. CJA thanks Jewelers MutualInsurance Company for the creation of the 16th module. JETS allowsthe student to acquire the basic knowledge required to succeed intoday’s retail jewellery industry. The opportunity to take this course bycorrespondence allows you to proceed at your own pace.For more information, contact Maria Garcia at 416-368-7616/1-800-580-0942, ext. 222 or [email protected]

27 Queen Street East, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6Tel: 416-368-7616 Ext. 222 • Fax: 416-368-1986 • Toll Free: 1-800-580-0942

E-mail: [email protected] • www.canadianjewellers.com

11001_CJA_CJad_Aug_01_11001_CJA_CJad_Aug_01 11-06-16 9:48 AM Page 1

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sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

096 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write # 24 Gold Group 2 101Sapir 3 102Stuller 4-5 103Midas 6-7 104Jewelers Mutual Insurance 9 105Jewelers Mutual Insurance 11 106John’s Wholesale Jewellrey 13 107Rodania Cda 14 108Butterfl y Gem 17 109John’s Wholesale Jewellrey 19 110Carlo Biagi 21 111UBM Asia 23 112Image Fifth Avenue 25 113Malo Creations 27 114FC & D 31 116Lega Jewellery 33 117Peppers Plus 35 118MCD Pearls 36 119Best Bargains 37 120Rousseau 38 121Shiny Jewellers 39 122GIA 41 1232012 Buyer’s Guide 43 124Noble Gift Packaging 49 125Stuller 51 126Global Wealth 53 127Gee N’ Gee Importers 55 128PH Design 57 129Ready Mounts 61 130The Bullion Mart 63 131JVC Jewellers 65 132

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

Number of locations: ______________________

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________

Company Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________________

City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

2. Use this quick

Mediagrif/Polygon 67 133Mirage Creations 69 134Wengers 73 135Pierre Laurent 75 136Rodania 77 137Muehle-Glashuette Cda 79 140Smokecloak 81 141CBQ 86 142CJA Cdn Jewellers 95 143Reed Exhibitions 97 144PAJ/Elle 99 145Mirage Creations 100 146Mirage Creations/Nova 16 150Elle Jewelry Collection 16 151Ready Mounts Inc. 16 152John’s Wholesale 16 153Butterfl y Gems 18 154Carlo Biagi Jewelry 18 155Feri Toronto 18 156Stuller 18 157GWT Corp. 20 158Bulova 20 159Jewelers Mutual 20 160Image Fifth Avenue 20 16124 Gold Group 21 162Midas Jewelry Inc. 21 163PH Design 21 164Polygon 21 165GIA 21 166

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

AUGUST 2011WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON

USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

Reserved exclusively for retailers

Example

101

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

To qualify, check circles:

* FREE Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fi ll out form completely.


96.CJ_FaxBack.indd 96 7/8/11 6:07:11 PM

JOIN YOUR COLLEAGUESSUNDAY, AUGUST 7 - TUESDAY, AUGUST 9, 2011METRO TORONTO CONVENTION CENTRE - NORTH BUILDINGTORONTO, ONTARIOR E G I S T E R A T : W W W . J C K T O R O N T O . C A

Shop the best selection of products from over 150 designers and manufacturers

Make personal connections with those who share your passion for jewellery

Learn new solutions in our Education Program to boost your bottom line

W H E R E C A N A D I A NJ E W E L L E R S CO M E

TO G E T H E R


CJ_JCK_ReedExh.indd 1 7/8/11 1:25:52 PM

lastword

Honoured with the Watch of the Year award from the

prestigious Dutch magazine 00/24, the Rue Royale by

Pequignet Manufacture ($8,000), had to beat some

serious competition in its category including Chopard,

Eberhard, Panerai and Tag Heuer. This truly elegant

timepiece with a Calibre Royal in-house Manufacture

movement is supposed to symbolize the renaissance

of manufacture-based French Haute Horlogerie.

Celebrated by both readers and a panel of experts,

the Rue Royale makes us want to slow down time so

we can stare at it for hours.

shineTime to 98 CJ A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

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Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]

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CJ_MirageCreations_Mirage.indd 1 7/12/11 1:57:58 PM

Canadian Jeweller - August 2011 Issue

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