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Can Do in Chengdu: A Family ExperiencePart 1 of a Series: Get Your Greens with the Gaos

Im in China six weeks, and already missing my organic veggies,farmers markets and relationships with my farmers back home. Ive gotthree kids ages six and under, and the pressures on (okay, so its self-

imposed) to find them some organic food.Enter our trip to the Gao family natural farm. Destination: Anlongvillage, Pixian, northwest of Chengdu. Arranger: our friend and resident

anthropology student Matthew Hale.

Six Westerners, one who knows Chinese fluently, and at one point, 27Chinese people on one bus all worked together to figure out that theroute from Pixians central bus terminal had changed. (Its a good thingto check. As of September 2009, take the #705, not #705q.) Soonenough, we meandered down a well-kept, rose- and tree-lined lane and

entered the Gaos modest courtyard.The farm had so many interesting nooks and crannies. Wide strong

baskets holding squashes, eggplants, and green and even red okra theygrew from seeds given to them as a gift. Soybeans hanging up to dry.A row of five large pickling pots under the windowsill lined with Cresttoothpaste tubes. Trellises with chayotes (Buddha-hand squash inChinese) dangling beckoningly. Children delighting in discovering thepomelos hanging lusciously from the tree branches. (By the way, wehad generously slathered on mosquito repellant, and were thankful later

for the intact mosquito nets around our beds.)The Gaos know how to feed a crowd! And we know how to savordelicious home-style meals! With the Gaos expertly pulling out largertabletops, multiple stools, bowls, and chopsticks, we all fit around oneeating space. As theyre Buddhist, we ate vegetarian meals that left ussatisfied. We didnt miss meat as we ate: sweet potatoes and othertubers, warmed peanuts, shimmering tofu with brown sauce, sweet-

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potato greens (which was actually a fave with my eldest son back in theStates), soup with okra, mushrooms and chayote; the Gaos ownpickled greens and chilies; hearty protein-rich seitan and a bean-basedmock-meat served up in different shapes and styles, garnished with

green onion; and tender eggplant picked by my children. And theGaos own brown rice, oh, sweet brown rice that Ive otherwise only

been able to find at Metro!During our visit, I felt like we began to build community, despite havingno shared verbal language. We were served tea with mint my boyshelped pick. Gao Qingrong flashed her broad smile and showed mehow to chop the vegetables and seitan (wheat meat). My boys hadthe job of scooping it into bowls. They especially loved feeding thewood-fired stove, which was a huge wok set flush with the counter. Inthe evening, we vigorously scooped up the harvested rice, poured itonto the top of the manually-powered winnowing fan, and winnowed

out the chaff.We connected with the wider community. Coincidentally that day,friendly representatives from the Chengdu Urban Rivers Associationand the Partnership for Community Development from Hong Kong

assembled at the Gaos for a village workshop about compostingtechniques.Just as in the States, we saw the struggles of going organic. We sawvegetables that in some areas had fallen susceptible to pests. We sawthe wonder of the natural way, too. We saw the various compostingpiles, and learned to use the special toilet that filters urine before itenters the water table. My kids figured out how to reconnect withnature, play with big sticks, and marvel at huge spiders. I took up-close

shots of at least nine types of flowers in bloom.Best of all, we were able to sign up to receive semi-weekly shares.Vegetable delivery is Tuesdays and Fridays at various locations in andaround Chengdu. We receive 5 jin (2.5 kilograms) that, at 4 yuan perjin, cost us 20 yuan per delivery. Now if we can just learn to cook like

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the Gaos. Next trip?For more information on visiting and/or dining with the family, or signingup for vegetable delivery, contact Gao Yicheng at mobile:

13194990983. Chinese preferred, so enlist the help of your best-Chinese-speaking buddy to set your visit up, if you dont feel up to the

task. Or you can go through Matt (matthew.a.hale@gmail.com).Directions to the farm: From Jinsha Station in Chengdu, take #320 to

Pixian Station (). From the, take bus #705 to Tiantai

Shipin Chang (), where the Gaos can meet you beside the

road.