Camasi - instructiuni asamblare tipar

8/9/2019 Camasi - instructiuni asamblare tipar

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Home / Women / Shirts / #5283 Short sleeves shirt

Difficulty: *


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Recommended fabrics: crinkle chiffon.

You will need: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, printout paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how

much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part - 2 details2. Back part – 1 detail3. Sleeve - 2 details

4. Collar – 2 details5. Stand-up collar – 2 details

Fusible interfacing: placket, outer collar, stand-up collar.

Instructions:

Press each stitched seam, then oversew and press again.

1. Strengthen the placket, outer collar, cuffs and stand-up collar with fusible interfacing

2. Sew bust darts into front part and topstitch them.

3. Sew shoulder seams, then topstitch,

4. Sew sleeves into armholes, then topstitch seams.

5. Oversew separately side edges 15 cm (5-7/5") from the hem, then sew downward tonotch marks.

6. Press sleeve hem allowance in double into wrong side at 3 cm (1-1/8") width.

Topstitch it on foot width. Press sleeve hem allowance into wrong side again. Topstitchlower edge of the fold also on foot width.

7. Face the placket.

8. Stitch the inner collar with outer one. Turn collar right side out and topstitch.

9. Sew stand-ups, with the collar between them.


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10. Sew inner stand-up (with the collar) to the neckline, fold the outer stand-up open edgeunder and topstitch along the seam of inner stand-up.

11. Press hem allowance to left, then topstitch. Press and topstitch slit allowances.

12. Make button holes into right (overlap) part and sew buttons to the left (underlap) one.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5142 Top with shawl collar

Difficulty: **


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You need: crepe; 4 buttons.




Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part -4 pieces2. Back part -2 folded pieces

3. Collar -2 folded pieces

Top consists of 2 layers. Two front parts and one of back parts are inner details.

Fusing: outer collar, front facings.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar and front facings.

2. Stitch front darts. Press darts’ depths towards front center, topstitch along the edge on

right side.

3. Stitch side seams. Stitch back middle seam into back part and strap. Pres allowances

apart.

4. Lay collar details right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Cut

allowances. Turn the collar right side out, topstitch edges. Topstitch collar open edges on

allowances at 1 mm (1/16") from marking. Stitch the collar in at outer top’s right side

coinciding marks.

5. Lay inner top on outer one right sides together, stitch them along edgings and lower

edges; begin/stop stitching 5 cm (2") before edging neckline. Cut allowances, cut atcorners. Turn the top right side out, serge edges. Pull back edges right side out through

the slit into collar joining seam and pin strap open edges and back edges. Stitch edges

with one seam. Srge strap/back neckline edges. Fold strap inner side under and tack themon collar joining seam. Topstitch along edges: collar joining seam, edgings, hem, back

neckline, straps’ right side.

6. Make buttonholes into right edgings, sew buttons on left one.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5421 Top with decorative

piping


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Difficulty: **

You will need: sheer fabric; satin (for trimming); zipper; fusing; bias tape.




Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Waistband_1 – 2 pieces2. Waistband_2 – 2 pieces3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Back trimming – 4 pieces5. Front part – 1 piece

6. Front trimming – 4 pieces

Fusing: front trimming, back trimming.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front/back trimming.

2. Serge side edges. Stitch side seams excluding closure slit into left side seam. Press side

seams apart and press the slit. Topstitch the slit at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.

3. Make pleats into shaped neckline and make provisional stitch. Trim the neckline with bias tape. Fold bias tape in half lengthwise, wrong side inside, and press. Unfold the bias;

turn inside half-width of each side of the tape, press. Fold the tape back in at the first

pressed fold, press again. Encase shirred keyhole neckline into bias tape, baste and

topstitch to trim neckline with bias.

4. Stitch side edges of front/back trimmings. Press front/back trimming’s side seams apart.Stitch middle font seam and press it apart. Lay front/back trimmings right side togetherand overstitch outer edge of trimming and inner edge between notches. Turn the

trimming right side out and press it. Press lower trimming’s lower edge at 1 cm (3/8").

Stitch the trimming to the garment coinciding side seams.

5. Serge middle edge. Stitch middle seam up to closure mark and press the seam apart.

Stitch the zipper in. Fold middle edge of back trimming and topstitch it along zipper joining seam.


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6. Make pleats along front/back part’s hem.

7. Lay waistband_1 and waistband_2 right sides together and stitch waistband’s middleseam. Press middle seam apart and overstitch waistband’s outer edge as well as

outer/inner edges of waistband’s ties. Press waistband outer edge. Press waistband inneredge at 1 cm (3/8"). Stitch outer waistband to the top. Press joining seam towards the

garment.

8. Topstitch trimming’s inner pressed edge along trimming joining seam.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5307 Silk top

Difficulty: *


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Home / Women / Tops / #5302 Lace top

Difficulty: **


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Recommended fabrics: lace; silk.

You will need: satin lining.




Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Cups– 2 details2. Lace cup – 1 detail3. Basque – 2 details

Lining:

1. Cups – 2 details

Cut pipings of 0.5 cm (3/16") width by diagonal.

Recommendations on sewing sheer material. Do not draw contours via carbon paper on

material, for they will be visible on the right side. The simplest way is to cut all detailswith equal allowances and sew edges on equal width.

Instructions:

1. Sew bust darts into cups.

2. Sew bust darts into lining cups.

3. Sew fabric cups.

4. Sew lining cups.

5. Overstitch fabric cups lower edge with lining cups.

6. Sew lace cups to basque with hidden stitches.

7. Tack lining and lace details and then sew them as usual (as lace only).

8. Overstitch lace cups front edges with lining cups, then turn cups into right side.


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9. Fold pipings for armhole and back neckline along the center and press. Sew folded pipings to armhole edges, piping bent is on the garment on 0.75 cm (1/4") width. Cut

seam allowances to 0.5 cm width. Turn pipings into wrong side, then topstitch the top

along armhole and back neckline.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5443 Wrapped top

Difficulty: *


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You will need: sheer natural fabric.




Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Back part - 1 detail2. Left front part - 1 detail

3. Right front part - 1 detail4. Long waistband - 1 detail

5. Short waistband - 1 detai

Instructions:

1. Sew front/back darts. Press darts.

2. Sew shoulder seams, serge them. Press shoulder seams backwards.

3. Serge front/back neckline edges, sleeve hems. Turn front/back ready allowances under

and topstitch them at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Turn one-piece sleeve's hem readyallowances and topstitch at 0.5 cm from edge.

4. Serge side seams. Side seams leaving a slit into left side seam; press side seams apart.Serge the hem, then turn under and topstitch.

5. Fold the waistband along the center and overstitch along both edges. Turn waistband

right side out and press it. Edgestitch waistband edge. Sew the waistband to left front part.

Serge joining seam and topstitch it.

6. Serge side edge of short waistband. Apply the waistband to right front part and

overstitch by three edges. Turn the waistband right side out and press it. Edgestitchwaistband edge.

You can trim waistband end with buckle.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5296 Gathered front top

Difficulty: *


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Recommended fabrics: silk and viscose.

You will need: invisible separating zipper.




Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part yoke – 1 detail2. Back part yoke – 1 detail3. Front part - 1 detail

4. Back part - 1 detail5. Waistband – 2 details

Cut pipings of 0.5 cm (3/16) width by diagonal.

Instructions:

1. Gather front and back upper parts.

2. Fold pipings for front part yoke neckline, back part yoke and straps along the centerand press. Sew folded pipings to edges of front part yoke neckline, back part yoke and

yoke side edges; piping bent should be on the garment on 0.75 cm (1/4) width. Cut seamallowances to 0.5 cm width. Turn a piping into wrong side, then topstitch along necklines,

yoke side seams and straps.

3. Sew yokes to front and back parts.

4. Oversew front/back parts upper edges alongside with yokes.

5. Topstitch oversewn edges on the front and back parts.

6. Sew right side seam.

7. Press left sides of front and back parts into wrong sides and sew the zipper.

8. Gather front and back parts hem.

9. Sew the waistband to the blouse hem. Face waistband ends and topstitch the waistband

along the joining seam.


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Home / Women / Tops / #5297 Chiffon draped top

Difficulty: **


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Recommended fabrics: soft draping silk

You will need: satin lining, separating zipper.




Cutting:

Fabric:

1. Front part center –2 details2. Front part side - 2 details3. Back part center - 1 detail

4. Back part side –2 details5. Cup – 2 details

6. Draping detail of cups – 1 detail7. Front facing – 1 detail

8. Back facing – 2 details9. Strap – 2 details

Lining:

1. Front part center – 2 details

2. Front part side - 2 details3. Back part center - 1 detail

4. Back part side –2 details5. Cup – 2 details

6. Strap – 2 details

Recommendations on sewing sheer material. Do not draw contours via carbon paper onmaterial, for they will be visible on the right side. The simplest way is to cut all details

with equal allowances and sew edges on equal width.

Instructions:

1. Tack lining and fabric details and then sew them as usual (as fabric only).

2. Sew bust darts into cups.

3. Sew front part centers, front part princess seams.

4. Sew back part princess seams.


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5. Sew right side of the top.

6. Tack lining and chiffon straps. Fold straps along the center and topstitch on 1 cm(3/8") width from the bend. Turn straps right side out, then press and sew to cups.

7. Make drapes into the detail to be draped. Make large machine stitches along both sides

of front part center line and along side edges. Do not gather details on the string.

8. Tack draping detail to upper edge of front part, with draping detail edge opened

between marks.

9. Sew cups to front parts.

10. Turn draping detail upward and gather it on lower strings to front center line up to 4cm (1-5/8") height and along side edges up to cups side edges. Fold the stripe along the

center and make a stitch 1 cm below the bend. Turn the stripe put and fold with it drapingdetail along front center lines. Sew stripe ends on the wrong side. Tack the detail. To

avoid hanging drapes, you can invisibly sew them to cups by hand.

11. Press front/back part left sides into the wrong side and sew the zipper.

12. Sew front and back facing together and oversew facings outer edges.

13. Overstitch upper edge of the garment with facings. Turn the facings and topstitch

seam allowance on 0.1 mm (very close) from the edge.

14. Turn the facing wrong side out and topstitch it to the zipper.

15. Fit the straps and sew their back ends under back upper edge.

16. Press the hem into wrong side and topstitch.

Camasi - instructiuni asamblare tipar

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