CONTENTS

FORWARD & INTRODUCTION

Top 5 sites

When to visit

Driving in Spain, Car Hire & Public Transport

Road Maps

Roads

Leaflets

Accommodation

Birding Information, Visitors' Centres, Useful websites, Wi-fi, etc.

BIRDLIFE OF CÁDIZ PROVINCE

HABITATS – Lakes, Marshes & Estuaries, Mountains & Forest, Farmland & Lowlands, Coastal sites & Seawatching.

RAPTOR PASSAGE, CALENDAR & MIGRATION

FURTHER AFIELD

SITE GUIDE

NW - INTRODUCTION TO NORTH-WEST CADIZ PROVINCE

*** NW 1 - Chipiona Area – Chipiona, La Jara, etc

*** NW 2 - Sanlucar – Bonanza - Trebujena Area

* NW 2.1 - Sanlucar Promenade

*** NW 2.2 - Bonanza Pools

*** NW 2.3 - Bonanza Saltpans

** NW 2.4 - Laguna de Tarelo & Pinar de Monte Algaida

** NW 2.5 - Los Portugueses Salt Pans/Guadalquiver Marshes

** NW 2.6 - Marismas de Chapatal / Trebujena Marshes

** NW 3 - Mesa de Asta Marsh

* NW 4 - Marismas de Casablanca

** NW 5 - Laguna de los Tollos

** NW 6 - Lagunas de Espera

** NW 7 - Lagunas de Lebrija (inc. Laguna de Cigarrera, Seville)

** NW 8 - Laguna de Medina

* NW 9 - Medina Sidonia – Paterna de Rivera area

** NW 10 - Lagunas de Puerto Real - Lagunas de Taraje, San Antonio & Comisario

*** NW 11 - Lagunas del Puerto Santa Maria

* NW 12 - Lagunas de Chiclana

Cadiz & Cadiz Bay (Bahía de Cádiz)

* NW 13 - Cadiz town

** NW 14 - El Puerto de Santa Maria Area - Bahía de Cádiz (North)

** NW 14.1 - The ‘Inner’ Marshes

** NW 14.2 - Coto de la Isleta & Salinas de la Tapa

* NW 14.3 - Marismas de los Toruños & Pinar de La Algaida

** NW 15 - San Fernando Marshes - Bahía de Cádiz (Centre)

** NW 15.1 - Tres Amigos Salt Pans *

* NW 15.2 - Doleres Salt Pans

** NW 15.3 - Punta del Boqueron

* NW 15.4 - Sendero Estero/Cano Carrascon

* NW 15.5 - Playa de la Caseria

** NW 16 - Chiclana - Bahía de Cádiz (South)

** NW 16.1 - St Maria de Bartivas Salt Pans

* NW 16.2 - Carboneros salt pans Los Gallos-Cerromolinos sendero

** NW 16.3 - Sancti Petri Village

* NW 16.4 - Laguna de Paja

SW - INTRODUCTION TO SOUTH-WEST CADIZ PROVINCE

* SW 1 - Embalse del Rio Barbate

*** SW 2 - Benalup – Medina Sidonia Area

** SW 3 - Cantarranas

* SW 4 - Los Naveros- Conil area

** SW 5 - Cape Trafalgar & Brena Pines nr. Vejer

** SW 6 - Barbate Estuary

*** SW 7 - La Janda

*** SW 8 - Bolonia - Atlanterra – Sierra de la Plata

*** SW 9 -Tarifa Area

*** SW 9.1 -Tarifa and whale watching trips

*** SW 9.2 - Playa de los Lances

** SW 9.3 - La Pena Area

** SW 9.4 - Santuario de la Luz

*** SW 10 - Migration Watchpoints

*** SW 10.1 - Trafico

** SW 10.2 - Cazalla

** SW 10.3 - Guadalmesi

** SW 10.4 - El Cabrito

** SW 10.5 - Mirador del Estrecho

** SW 10.6 - Puerto del Bujeo

** SW 10.7 - Huerte Grande

*** SW 10.8 - El Algarrobo

** SW 11- Puntas Carnero & Secreta

* SW 12 - Palmones Estuary

** SW 13 - Southern Alcornocales

*** SW 14 - Ojen Valley

** SW 15 - Los Barrios Rubbish Tip

** SW 16 - Vejer Area

E - INTRODUCTION TO EAST CADIZ PROVINCE

* E 1 - Lagos/Embalses de Arcos & Bornos

** E 2 - Los Alcornocales (North of A381)

** E 2.1 - Alcala de los Gazules & the Molinos Valley

** E 2.2 - El Picacho - Puerto Galis – Charco de los Hurones

** E2.3 - La Sauceda – Jimena (North) - Cadiz/Malaga

** E 3 - Grazalema

** E 3.1 - El Bosque – Grazalema

* E 3.2 - Ubrique – Grazalema Road (A 2302)

** E 3.3 - Grazalema – Puerto de Palomas – Zahara – Grazalema Circuit

** E 3.4 - Mirador Mojon de Vibora - Cortes de la Frontera Area (Vulture Feeding Site)

*** E 4 - Montejaque & Llanos de Libar (Malaga)

** E 4.1.-Benajoan - Montejaque

*** E 4.2 - Llanos de Libar

* E 5 - Peñon de Zaframagón

** E 6 - Jimena de la Frontera (South)

** E 7 - Castillo de Castella

* E 8 - Sotogrande *

*E 9 – Mirador El Higueron & envrons of La Linea

Appendix 1 – Sites nearby in Seville, Malaga & Gibraltar

i) Seville Province

* SV 1 - Lebrija area

*** SV 2 - Brazo del Este

*** SV 2.1 – 'Southern Marshes'

*** SV 2.2 - ''Northern Marshes'

** SV 2.3 – Corta de los Olivillas

*** SV 3 - Laguna de Mejorada

* SV 4 - Lagunas de Utrera

*** SV 5 - 'Steppe' farmlands of eastern Seville

** SV 5.1 - El Arahal – Marchena – Carmona Triangle

*** SV 5.2 - Osuna farmlands

*** SV 5.3 - La Lantejuela Area

ii) Malaga

* M 1 – Casares – Rio Genal, Sierras de la Utrera & Crestellina

** M 2 - Rio Guadalhorce

iii) Gibraltar

Appendix 2 – Notes on Selected Species (with phenological notes)

Appendix 3 - 10 ideas for non-birding partners

BIRDING CADIZ PROVINCEFORWARDI wrote the first "edition" of these notes (although not in their current form) almost a decadeago and they have gradually evolved over that time into something far larger and detailedthan I ever envisaged. Gradually I added more and more details until I found I'd writtenalmost 60,000 words, drawn over 70 maps and covered eighty odd sites and sub-sites.The main section includes several sites that straddle provincial borders or are so close tothe border that it's logistically better to cover them under 'Cadiz'. In addition I've added anappendix with further sites well into Seville and Malaga provinces plus Gibraltar (which iswhere visitors often fly into). Those in Seville have iconic birds – Great Bustard, Pin-tailed & Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Roller, Rufous Bush Chat, etc. - difficult orimpossible to see Cadiz province. Although distant, Spain's excellent motorway systemmakes them easily accessible (and for some will be only a minor detour if you arrive viaSeville airport).

These notes have now reached a fairly definitive form as, over the last few years, I havebeen able to ammend and update them several times a year to take into account newinformation or changes in status (see also my website).

Please note that a change in my circumstances means that I am no longer able to visit andexplore the area as I have in the past. As a consequence, these notes will no longer be soregularly updated. However, they were always meant to be interactive so if you have visitedthe area now, more than ever, I would appreciate feedback to keep them current andaccurate.

Although my policy is to make these notes freely available, I invite users to make asuitable donation to one of the following charities SEO (www.seo.org), the RSPB( www.rspb.org.uk ) or Birdlife International ( www.birdlife.org ); please tell them the reasonfor the donation. I'd be very grateful if you could let me know too. I'm pretty self motivatedworking on this guide, but knowing I'd also raised some money for causes close to myheart would be a bonus. Those guides who have helped/encouraged/supported theproduction of this guide have been sent a copy and have been recommended in thesenotes. Unfortunately, other professional guides in the area have used these noteswithout the courtesy of an acknowledgement or giving any feedback which isdisappointing. Presumably, they've not made any donation to one of the charitiesnoted above either. Finally, if you use them then please acknowledge the fact in your trip report (if you write)one and send me a copy for my blog,

Good birding, John Cantelo – July 2015

Disclaimer:

Please note that whilst I have done my utmost to provide accurate and current information anddescribe only routes, trails and tracks that are safe to explore, things do change and I have notbeen able to revisit all sites regularly. Accordingly readers are strongly urged to check locally forcurrent conditions and for any changes in circumstances. Note particularly that vehicular access tothe Ojen valley (SW14) is now by permit only, that access to the Lllanos de Libar (E4.2) isrestricted in the summer months and that the military seem to be cracking down of routes in SW 10(& possibly elsewhere). I cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconveniencessustained by readers as a result of the information provided in this guide.

INTRODUCTION

Cadiz has been called "probably the best (Spanish) province for a single-base.……birding visit" (Garcia &Patterson); in my view the only matter for dispute is that "probably"! The most popular option seems to bestaying near Tarifa which is obviously very well placed to observe raptor migration. However, if you wantvariety then Tarifa is rather distant from the famous shallow freshwater lagunas that dot the northern half ofthe province, the wilder mountains of the northern Alcornocales & Grazalema or the marismas that form thesouth eastern rim of the Coto Doñana. If you're not visiting the area simply for the raptor passage thenconsider staying somewhere more central (e.g. Vejer de la Fronteras, Medina Sidonia, Alcalá de los Gazulesor evenJerez)

It would need a small book to give a full account of the birds of this area and, fortunately, one is available-"Guia de Aves del Estrecho de Gibraltar / Birds of the Straits of Gibraltar" (Pub: Ornitour ISBN 84-6074545-7). This bilingual guide provides an excellent review of birds found in the southern part of theprovince, a local atlas and doubles up as a very useful field guide. Graphs, showing the detailed pattern ofarrivals & departures for migrant species, are especially helpful. Although it's difficult to get a 'hard copy' inthe UK, it can also be read and downloaded from http://www.birdcadiz.com/guia-de-aves-del-estrecho-de-gibraltar . Unfortunately, it does not cover the northern half of Cadiz (or nearby provinces) so somecomments about a species' general status cannot be applied beyond the book's relatively narrow remit. Thisparticularly applies to wetland species as several species, rare or absent from the study area, can be easilyfound just a little further north or east (e.g. White-headed Duck). The same team have produced "Birds ofthe Natural Park ‘Sierra de Grazalema’" which covers the 130 commonest species of the area."Birdwatching Guide to Southern Spain", is much less useful, but does contain a good overview of thestatus of birds in southern Spain. A more recent book (2007) is ‘Nomads of the Strait of Gibraltar’ byFernando Barrios Partida which is not a guidebook as such, but a beautifully illustrated homage to thisspectacular area. For a magisterial overview of the status of birds of Spain and Portugal see the superb 'TheBirds of the Iberian Peninsula' by Eduardo de Juana and Ernest Garcia (Helm 2015). At £60 it's not cheap,but if you have a serious interest in the ornithology of Spain it's an unavoidable purchase.

The notes that follow are based many visits since buying a small house in Alcalá de los Gazules in 2005.These have varied from a dozen or so short ‘serious’ birding trips (in February, April and May & September)plus many gentler birding jaunts with my (non-birding) wife. Although passage periods and early summer arethe ‘must visit’ times, birding on a warm winter’s day can be superb; La Janda, for example, holds winteringraptors (inc. Black-winged Kite) and Cranes. One advantage of a winter trip is that whilst the UK may bebitterly cold, the mild climate in Cadiz province can make it feel like a balmy May day in England (although itcan still be chilly at night). It’s also worth remembering that migration starts early in southern Spain withsome “summer visitors” arriving (if they depart at all) in February and that, for some, numbers peak in March.

For further details on birding sites in the area, the reader is referred to the increasing number of very usefulbooks. The third edition (2008) of "Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain" by Garcia &Paterson has been thoroughly updated and includes several new sites; quite simply required reading for theornitho-hispanophile! It also includes a good appendix on the status of birds in the area. Lynx edicions hasrecently (2006) published two excellent guidebooks "Where to watch birds in Spain: the 100 best sites"(Montero et al) and "Where to Watch birds in Doñana" (Chiclana & Garzón). Although the first covers thewhole country, it includes five sites in the area. Of these four sites are wholly in Cadiz province - Laguna deMedina, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Straits of Gibraltar and Bahía de Cadiz - and one, Grazelama, is shared

with Malaga. The second Lynx guide, obviously, covers the CotoDonana, but, less obviously, includes a number of sites on theeastern bank of the Guadalquivir. A Spanish team wrote both booksso they are thoroughly detailed and up to date (although, naturally,more orientated to a Spanish market than a British one)."Birdwatching on Spain's Southern Coast" by John Butler hasmany excellent suggestions and tips. Despite John Butler’s untimelydeath, his “A Birdwatching Guide to Doñana” has recently beenpublished (see - www.trafford.com/07-0594). An additional book,Malcolm Palmer's "Birdwatching Guide to Southern Spain", ismuch less useful, but does contain a good overview of the status ofbirds in southern Spain.

The "Travellers' Nature Guide: Spain" (Farino & Lockwood) has awider scope dealing both with the whole of Spain and a broadercontext as all aspects of Natural History are touched upon.Nonetheless, this is an extremely valuable guide for birders, even

A selection of available leaflets

the most monomanic ones. (Unfortunately, this superb book is currently out of print – so snap one up if yousee it second-hand!).

The Crossbill Guides ( www.crossbillguides.org ), newcomers to this market, also take a broad ecologicalapproach to the areas that they cover. As well as a detailed overview of the wildlife to be found in a givenarea, they include suggested itineraries (by car and on foot). This expanding series includes two books onthis part of Spain. "The Nature Guide to the Coto Doñana" (2005) is an excellent general primer on thewildlife of the Coto Doñana including some sites on the east bank of the Guadalquivir. "The Nature Guide tothe Andalusian Sierras from Malaga to Gibraltar" (2007), which deals with the Alcornocales, Grazelemaand the Ronda area, is the best English language guide to the wildlife of these mountains. However, I wouldsay that as I edited (and wrote some sections of) this book with Dutch naturalist Dirk Hilbers. I am currentlypart of a Crossbill team putting together a two-volume "The Nature Guide to Andalucia" (which shouldappear early in 2017).

The staff in the office of the Parque Natural los Alcornocales (now next the the visitors center just off the A381 – see below) are helpful, but speak very little English. Much of the same information can be found at thevisitors’ centre for the park (which is just off the A381 on the Alcalá de los Gazules – Benalup road). However,permission to walk certain paths can only be given by the park office. The visitors' centre also has a verygood exhibition on the park (with a guide book in English). Both offices have a very handy, and free, bilingualornithological map of the park (produced by Ornitour) and pamphlets (mainly in Spanish) describing walks inthe park.

The information office for the Parque Natural La Brena & Barbate(just inside the dock gate in Barbate) has an interesting display onthe area and helpful staff (some of whom speak English). A new(2013), free 145 page booklet called 'Birds from the Coast ofTrafalgar' gives an excellent overview of birding in the area andcontains details of a dozen birding routes. There's a leaflet onthese routes and details are available also on the web atwww.visitatrafalgar.com/en/birdwatching .

The local government (Junta de Andalucía) controls an impressivenumber of reserves in the area – most of the small lagoons, forexample, are under their supervision. Several have clearlyattracted funding to improve facilities (although these seem to beaimed more at walkers/tourists than birdwatchers). However, whilstmoney is spent on the infrastructure, routine management,maintenance and care often seems neglected. Hence hides, evenwhen well sited, due to neglect, may be largely screened by trees(e.g. Lagunas de Espera). However, there is an increasingawareness of ornithological tourism which may pay dividends inthe future. The local government has recently published leaflets(in English) to birdwatching in the Bay of Cadiz and ‘nature routes’from Jerez. The severe economic problems in Spain (2010onwards) have had a severe impact on provision for wildlife witheven the famous Migres programme being decimated (2012).

So in brief the three ‘must buy’ bird guides to the area are:- Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain (3rd Edition) by Garcia & Patterson (2008) Where to Watch birds in Doñana by Chiclana & Garzon (Lynx). Guia de Aves del Estrecho de Gibraltar/Birds of the Straits of Gibraltar (OrniTour) Plus for all round wildlife information and much more: -The Nature Guide to the Sierras of the South(Crossbill) And for the true devotee:-

'The Birds of the Iberian Peninsula' by Eduardo de Juana and Ernest Garcia (Helm 2015).

Top 5 sitesFor those that may find, with reason, this account too long and wordy or have very limited time, I have listedbelow my ‘top 5 sites’. These cover the main habitats and most of the ‘key’ species.

1– Bonanza NW2

2– Laguna Medina NW7 (despite recent problems this site remains the most conveniently placed laguna to visit)

3– Bolonia & Sierra de la Plata SW8

4– Migration Watchpoints SW 13 (esp SW13.1)

5 - Montejaque & Llanos de Libar E4

When to visit?

Although we Brits have a vision of southern Spain as a place of everlasting warmth and sunshine, it does getcold in the winter when rain can be both heavy and persistent. Grazalema, surprisingly for many, is actuallythe wettest place in Spain. As it happens the early 2000s experienced a very dry run of winters, brought toan abrupt end by the heavy deluges of the winter of 2009/10 and again in 2010/2011. Even so, betweenNovember and March it can be, and often is, pleasantly warm and balmy during the day. Temperatures candrop to near freezing in Dec/Jan and nights (and early mornings) in particular can be surprisingly chilly.

Nonetheless, spring starts early in this part of the world. Increasingly, many ‘summer visitors’ don’t leaveentirely (e.g. Swallows, Lesser Kestrel, Short-toed & Booted Eagles, etc) and those that do head southreappear in February (or earlier – Great-spotted Cuckoos may return in December as do a small, butincreasing, number of Black Kites!).

Mass migration of birds of prey begins in February and by March numbers can be quite substantial.However, not all winter visitors leave equally early. Accordingly, in ‘late winter’ a birder has the prospect ofwatching, usually in bright sunshine, a delightful mixture of wintering birds such as Cranes and ‘summer’visitors like ‘Yellow’ Wagtail, Red-rumped Swallow, Pallid Swift, etc. Summer too arrives early and manybirds will have young in March/April whilst by May it can be scorchingly hot, and birds relatively inactive.However, late April/early May can be the best time to look for sought after late comers like Rufous Bushchatand Western Olivaceous Warbler (aka Isabelline Warbler). Summer can be stiflingly hot and smallerspecies hard to see, but with perseverance, an excellent time can be had especially if you follow the birdsand get up early. ‘Autumn’ too starts early with significant raptor passage in August although, comeSeptember, they are flooding through (this is a peak time for Rüppell’s Vulture). This is also a good time forsmall passerine migrants with birds like Pied Flycatcher appearing in good numbers. October/November cansee massive ‘vis mig’ of larks, hirundines, etc (but this is also the time when bird trappers are out en masse).In short, you can have a terrific birding break at any time of the year although a trip in April or September willprobably net you most species and one in mid-summer (June/July/early August) may be tiresomely hot andthe birding tougher. Then again, being here seeing good birds in warm February sunshine when you knowothers are shivering at home can be smugly satisfying!

Getting there

Continental birders have the advantage of being able to drive directly down to Spain. Brits who do sogenerally go via Brittany Ferries (see www.brittany-ferries.co.uk ) who sail out of Portsmouth and Plymouth toSantander/Bilbao. The drive down to Cadiz province takes another 8+ hours driving time (assuming youdon't stop in Extremadura). It is possible to drive from Calais – c20 hours driving time – but inevitableadditional stopovers probably make it a more expensive option overall.

Flying and car hire is the most usual option for birders. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com ) fly into Jerez is veryconvenient since it's at the centre of the province. Easyjet ( www.easyjet.com ) and Monarch( www.monarch.co.uk ) fly into Gibraltar which, in theory, should be as convenient as Jerez (more so if basedat Tarifa). However, in windy conditions flights can be diverted to Malaga causing delays and additional travel.Both Ryanair and Easyjet fly to Seville and, although more distant from Cadiz, has the advantage that youcan look for bustards etc en route near Osuna. All three, and many other companies, fly into Malaga which isabout the same travel time from the area as Seville. Flights to Malaga tend not to be reduced off season asmuch as elsewhere and if you use the main road to drive to Cadiz then tolls (much greater than via Seville)add to the cost.

Driving in Spain, Car Hire & Public Transport

Spanish drivers share all the faults of their British counterparts (e.g. speeding, use of mobile phones, etc.) butthe accident rate is somewhat higher than in the UK. I avoid driving through villages I don't know as broadboulevards can quickly turn into narrow car lined rat runs or, worse, dead-ends. The prevalence of scrapedand dented cars inclines one to caution when parking and it's always wise to fold in your wing mirrors! Thebiggest danger comes when negotiating roundabouts as Spanish drivers appear to be taught to take theouter lane even when taking the last exit. Be aware that some motorists may assume that indicating left,particularly where there's no obvious turning, is an invitation to overtake so take great care when turningacross a traffic lane onto a farm track. Be mindful too that in late May the Jerez motorbike Grand Prixcauses a huge influx of motorcyclists not all of whom pay heed to speed limits. However, motorways are, by

British standards, lightly used apart from in the vicinity of larger towns (e.g. Seville, Cadiz) and minor roadsare very lightly used indeed.

The cost of car hire in Spain has risen in recent years, but split between 3-4 birders isn't prohibitive. I alwayshire cars through 'Do You Spain' (www.doyouspain.com) which trawls through various companies to get thebest rate andn provides a English speaking support service for customers. Don't leave it too late to book acar as doing so may prove difficult. (Note – in spring 2012, despite checking well in advance, I found itimpossible to rent a car in La Linea/Gibraltar from a reasonably priced company only pricey Hertz/Avis cars– so check first if flying into Gibraltar). Many hire companies put stickers on the back window announcing tothe world that yours is a hire car. I always remove them (they can usually be stuck back on) as hire cars arefar more likely to suffer break-ins. Not that I've had a problem but this is a real difficulty at sites like RioGuadlhorce in Malaga Province.

Note that at least one hire car company – Recordgo (Malaga) - has a policy in the small print requiring usersto return the car to the point of hire after 2,000km for a replacement vehicle and levy a charge of 2€ per km(or more) for each 'excess' km driven – resulting in a hefty additional charge.

Stopping on asphalted roads edged by a white line may incur a 90€ fine (reduced to 45€ if paid within20 days). Fines may be paid at any post office (Oficina de Correos). As I know to my cost, don't think aremote scarcely used road will make you immune from the attentions of the Guardia Civil in this matter. Thetemptation to skip off home without paying is strong, but car hire companies, which have your details, maylevy the full amount plus handling charges if you do so. Pulling over on a gravel track, however, should notbe a problem. Please respect signs that ban unauthorised motor vehicles from many small tracks. Thesituation around Tarifa is complicated by many roads/tracks being signposted as 'restricted' military roadswhich, for the most part, is no longer the case (although some still are!)

Birding without a car is problematical, but bus services reach (but don't necessarily conveniently return from) the most out of way villages. If your focus is on raptor migration then staying in Tarifa and using local buses isquite viable. Bus timetables for the area can be found at www.tgcomes.es and www.linesur.com . For train services go to www.renfe.com . Bicycle hire is possible in many popular resorts and remember that even quitesmall villages may have taxi service (it's often best to enquire in bars).

Road Maps

Those raised on the availability and, moreover, the certainties of OS mapping in the UK will find Spanishmaps a trial. Firstly decent large scale maps are hard to come by since there are relatively few bookshops inSpain and even fewer of them sell a range of good large scale maps; several bookshops in Cádiz do so asdoes Libería Agricola de Jerez (www.agricolajerez.com) which is near the bullring in Jerez. Stanfords(Convent Garden, London – www.stanfords.co.uk) is a better source than most Spanish shops - but at apremium price. The Junta de Andalucia produce good quality maps of most national parks (e.g. the CotoDoñana, the Alcornocales. Grazalema, the Straits of Gibraltar & Cadiz Bay ) usually a 1:50,000 scale. Anumber of walking guides for Grazalema come with good maps – the best of these is that produced byPenibetica (www.penibetica.com). Various other larger scale maps are available with the best of the bunchbeing Geo/Estel's map of the Costa de la Luz (1:150,000), but it can be hard to find. However, none of theseare entirely reliable and many of the roads marked may be private, restricted to military use or even non-existent! Other roads which are shown as decent metalled routes are no more than tracks (e.g. the Ojenvalley road) whilst other much better roads aren't shown at all! It is often useful to compare maps against therealities found on Google Earth. Road designation in Spain is horrendously confused – I have tried to usecurrent road numbers as shown by Google Maps, but some old road numbers are still displayed so someinconsistency may have crept in.

I also recommend using the ‘GoogleMaps’ “Streetview” for checking out roads/directions – for all but minortracks it gives you panoramic views of the roads/junctions. (Just go to ‘GoogleMaps’, click on the little yellowfigure and drag onto the map). Wikiloc has also proved very useful for checking footpaths (in GoogleEarthclick on ‘Gallery’ - ‘wikiloc’ is one of the options)

RoadsSpain now has a network of fast and often, by UK standards, lightly used motorways. Despite improvementsin recent years minor roads are not always so well built or maintained. Spanish authorities seem to follow the‘layer cake’ of road building – if repairs are needed just slap another layer of tarmac on! This means, overtime, previously accessible places to pull off are now edged by a daunting small cliff of tarmac makingstopping difficult (esp. in the mountains). Toll roads are quick, but can be expensive (esp. to & from Malaga).

NOTE - Treat all published statements, including my own, about the navigability of tracks with caution asgravel tracks quickly degenerate due to their poor surface and a lack of maintenance. I'd guess resurfacedgravel tracks have a 'shelf-life' as a decent easily drivable route of no more than 4-5 years (depending on loc -ation and the severity of winter rains). This means what was perfectly drivable in the past may now be apotholed obstacle course, but poor gravel tracks can be quickly repaired and even the worst can become aneasy drive. Heavy rains in the winters of 2009/2010/2011 have seriously damaged many gravel/dirt tracksroads (and even some metalled roads) and drivers use them at their own risk. I’ve had an exhaust badlydamaged and others have damaged sumps, suspensions, etc. Also be aware that driving such basic graveltracks may be in breach of your hire car agreement. .

Leaflets (Downloadable)

There are an increasing number of leaflets, many of them available for download on birdwatching sites orwalks in Cadiz province. Most are produced by the same company and can be seen (and downloaded) viatheir website ( http://adsise.com / ) . Although most of these downloads are in Spanish, they still containvaluable and usable information for a monoglot English speaker. English versions can be found athttp://adsise.com/? p=900&lang=en-uk , They cover Cadiz Bay, Alcornocales, Grazalema, Los Lances,Bolonia, the Parque del Estrecho, Brena and Barbate area. There is also a nice little booklet called “NatureRoutes from Jerez” which can also be downloaded from – see http://www.turismojerez.com/index.php?id=2253&L=1 As mentioned above the booklet on the Trafalgar area can be downloaded fromwww.visitatrafalgar.com/en/birdwatching .

A series of leaflets, in Spanish , can be downloaded from http://adsise.com. They cover the followingsites/subjects:-

- Estrecho - http://adsise.com/?p=900&lang=es-es- Bird guide to Cadiz Bay - http://adsise.com/?p=25&lang=es-es- Brena & Barbate - http://adsise.com/?p=1248&lang=es-es http://adsise.com/?p=1248&lang=es-es & -

http://adsise.com/?p=354&lang=en-uk- Brena in colour - http://adsise.com/?p=354&lang=es-es- Los Lances - http://adsise.com/?p=46&lang=es-es- Alcornocales - http://adsise.com/?p=21&lang=en-uk

The Junta de Andalucia also a range of walking guides in Spanish which are available from Visitors’ Centres.In addition a very useful booklet covering 300 footpaths in Cadiz (in Spanish) can be seen and downloadedat http://issuu.com/cadizturismo/docs/300senderoscadiz .

Accommodation

Owning a small house in Alcala de los Gazules, I rarely use alternative accommodation. See websites likewww.tripadvisor.com for suggestions for where to stay. However, those wishing to stay in a comfortablesmall hotel might like to try “La Botica” guest house in Vejer de la Frontera (www.laboticadevejer.com)whose owner, Enrique Ysasi, offers a free day birding in the area (out of high season) to those who stay for 3or more days. (Note – the trade-off here is that the hotel is in the centre of Vejer without easy vehicularaccess). The main hotel in Alcala de los Gazules – Hotel San Jorge - www.hotel-sanjorge.com waspleasant enough when I stayed there some years ago and those at the nearby service station (seewww.lapalmosa.com) would be more convenient for a quick exit in the morning. In the village an Englishcouple run a reasonably priced, but luxurious B&B - Antigua Fonda (see http://alcalagazules.com) – whichcomes highly recommended. If you do book here then by all means mention my name – you won't get adiscount, but the owner, Tony, might buy me a drink!

If you’re prepared to stay in hostel style accommodation then you have several options. Should you want tostay in Los Alcornocales Natural Park itself then there is a hostel at the foot of El Picacho (seewww.elpichacho.es). It may also be possible to organise access to the nearby vulture feeding station. Amore convenient and more comfortable hostel, especially if you want to witness the raptor migration, is the“Youth” Hostel (“Albergue-Inturjoven Sur de Europa”) between Algeciras and Tarifa (seewww.inturjoven.com). This right above the main raptor migration route and a whiteboard there is updatedwith the day’s movements; views across to Morocco are stunning.

Another option is booking into one of the ‘campsites with chalets’ in the area. These chalets sleep 4-6 inreasonable comfort and have adequate, if basic, cooking facilities (although a cafeteria is usually alsoavailable). I have stayed in one at ‘Camping Gazules’ in the Molinos valley (which now has Wi-Fi) nearAlcala de los Gazules (www.campinglosgazules.com). Huerte Grande (see http://www.huertagrande.com/ )

is equally well placed as the youth hostel (above) and offers accommodation in small chalets and largerhouses. In addition the wooded valley attracts passerine migrants and the nearby there’s an excellenteducational centre (run by Ornitour). If you prefer to stay in the Jimena area try “Camping LosAlcornocales” (www.campinglosalcornocales.com).

If you’ve just won the lottery another option is ‘La Almoraima’ (www.laalmoraimahotel.com) a former 17thCconvent transformed into a luxurious 4 star hotel just north of Gibraltar. Even if you’re not staying there youcan book on a 4x4 trip round their private estate. At 15€ per person (4 per car) this is no better for birds thanelsewhere, but is excellent for Red, Fallow and Roe Deer.

Birding Information & Useful websites

Andalucía Bird SocietyIf you’re interested in birding in Andalucía then please consider joining the Andalucia Bird Society(www.andaluciabirdsociety.com). Even if you merely have a passing interest then you would find thewebsite (plus its forum and facebook page - both open to non-members) a great place to enquire aboutthe region and its birds.

Trip Reportshttp://alcalabirding.blogspot.com & http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/ – I have archived several of mytrip reports both on my old blog and my new one (see also below) which should give a flavour of birding in this area.The latter blog also has links to various other trip reports. There are many sites with birding trip reports – two I’vefound most useful are www.travellingbirder.com & www.camacdonald.com, but a quick search will reveal maymore

Birding Information & Useful websites

Birds:- http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/ - this is my new (2011) webpage on the area – I will be posting updates,

trip reports, photos, notes on ID, etc. http://www.andaluciabirdsociety.com/ – the recently established Andalucía Bird Society website is a good place to

start particularly if you want detailed information about the region and its birds.http://andalucianguides.blogspot.com/ - Stephen Daly (see also below) extremely useful and interestingblog http://datosmigres.blogspot.com/ - a new (2011) blog giving daily updates of raptor migrationhttp://adsise.com/ - for downloadable leaflets (see earlier). www.gbnet.gi/~gonhs - Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society's site; a good source of informationesp.

on migrating raptors.www.rarebirdspain.net - frequently updated site on rare birds in Spain (in English & Spanish)http://www.trektellen.nl/ - regularly has details of sightings at Cazalla and Algarrobo. www.fondacionmigres.org -

for information on this area & raptor migration (in Spanish)http://birding-the-costa.blogspot.com/ - Andy Patterson’s informative blog on SW Spainwww.seo.org - website of "Sociedad Española de Ornitholgia" (mainly in Spanish, but with a useful overview of

raptor migration in English - see www.seo.org/programa_seccion_ficha.cfm?idPrograma=11&idArticulo=672 for 2005) www.ornitour.com - the organisation that has produced several guidebooks to the birds of the area.

http://cocn.tarifainfo.com/central.html – website of the Colectivo Ornitológico Cigüeña Negra – Cocn – which works to conserve Black Storkshttp://avesdelsur.wordpress.com/about/the-website/ - Oli Reville's website 'Birding in Cadiz & Malaga' covers allthe main sites in Cadiz province plus parts of Malaga not dealt with here.

Other helpful sites include:- www.turmares.com – I’ve found this to be the bestof the whale watching companieswww.plegadis.net – a company offering various environmental services (founded by Beltran de

Ceballos, one of the leading lights of Spanish ornithology). http://www.turismojerez.com – for good information on the Jerez area and beyond

www.atunalmadraba.com – see for boat trips linked to the Tuna industry (potential for shearwaters, etc)

Spanish Bird Atlases In recent years Spain has benefited distribution surveys which give an excellent idea of bird distribution and,as they also show provincial boundaries, are very helpful in illuminating exactly where different species canbe found. Both the Spanish breeding and wintering bird atlases (Atlas de las aves reproductoras de España& Atlas de las aves en invierno en España 2007-2010) can be seen & downloaded fromwww.magrama.gob.es – just type in “atlas aves” into the site's search (buscar) box.

Internet & Wi-Fi Access to the internet allows you to check the weather forecast (invaluable for raptor watching) and theexcellent www.rarebirdspain.net . Many hotels (and some camp sites), numerous cafes, etc. now offer a freeinternet connection or free access to Wi-Fi to guests or customers. The petrol company, CEPSA, also offersWi-Fi connection. Look out for 'Wi-Fi' signs, but always ask in bars/cafes as not all put up signs. However, it'snot always easy to find a handy Wi-Fi provider so it makes sense to try and check out availability before yougo.

If visiting Alcala de los Gazules the 'Flamenco Bar' opposite the church at the top of the village has Wi-Fi, andif you sit outside offers good views of Lesser Kestrel and, in the evening, a chance of Barn Owl which nestin the church tower. If you're in luck the owner, Jorge, and his friends will provide free musical entertainment.

Professional Bird Guides

If short of time, confidence, expertise or you want it ‘on a plate’, I’d recommend the following local guides:-

Peter Jones is based near Ronda (Malaga Province) and has an intimate knowledge of the area. His webpage also contains a wealth of information on the region (see www.spanishbirds.com ). He also has access to hides for bird photography. Peter is a great birder/naturalist and one of the nicest, kindest people I know whose only flaw is to support West Ham.

Yeray Seminario (yeray@birdingthestrait.com) & Javi Elorriaga (javi@birdingthestrait.com) – both world class birders and fluent English speakers have recently combined forces to form 'Birding the Strait' (birdingthestrait.com) which runs birding/photography tours in Spain & Morocco. Yeray is also a partner in Whitehawk Birding (http://whitehawkbirding.com ). Javi Elorriagais (see also Tarifa Bird Tours http://tarifabirdingtours.com/ & https://www.facebook.com/javi.elorriaga ) is THE expert on cirtensis Longlegged Buzzard. Both are great company

LuisMi Garrido Padillo is a personal friend so I'm biased , but he's great company and expert birder/photographer based in Jerez. His newly established company Andalusian Birding Holidays ( http://andalusianbirdingholidays.com/en/ ) specialises in walking senderos, birdwatching and, particularly,bird photography. Access to specially provided hides.

Andrew Fortuna, based in Gibraltar, offers birdwatching tours, bird photography & digiscoping work- shops and nature walks in Gibraltar & Spain & Morocco. Although we keep missing one another in the field, Andrew and I have been in correspondence for a couple of years now and his tours get very positive feedback. See his website http://www.aviantours.net/

Luis Alberto Rodriguez – if you're based on the Costa del Sol then I recommend contacting Luis Alberto who speaks good English, knows the area well and has gained a good reputation asa guide to the area – see www.birdaytrip.es

Natural Park Visitors ’ CentresThere are a number of new, useful vistors’ centres for the main natural parks in the area all of which haveleaflets on walks, wildlife, maps etc:-

• Alcornocales – an exhibition & vistors’ centre is off exit 42 on the A381 a short way towards Benalup(i.e. near Alcala de los Gazules

• Estrecho – take the track inland just south of Hotel Puntasur on the N 340/E 5 (or c400m north along theroad from Torre de la Pena north of Tarifa). There is also a good new centre with a focus on migration -Centro de Visitantes Huerta Grande – in El Pelayo (just west of Algeciras).

• La Breña y Marismas de Barbate – this centre is hidden away in Barbate harbour off the Caňos deMecca road (100m to the left as you enter the westernmost gate to the docks); stocks the excellentbooklet 'Birds from the Trafalgar Coast').

• Cadiz Bay – there are two centres here. The principal one is in San Fernando at the start of Punta delBoqueron and the other is Ave del Mare in Valedelagrana

• Grazalema – the ‘poor cousin’ of other centres being small, under resourced and alone in not being in apurpose built building, this centre (in Plaza de Pequena). Unfortunately, it is no longer run by the veryknowledgeable and helpful British naturalist, Clive Muir but see his website www.wildsideholidays.co.uk/.Despite OFTEN being available only in Spanish (or fractured “Costa English”) the leaflets at thesecentres are very useful directing you to good footpaths and walking routes.

BIRDLIFE OF CÁDIZ PROVINCE

HABITATS

Lakes, Marshes & Estuaries

Laguna de MedinaThese three slightly different habitats have many species in common, but in a different balance (plus somespecies unique to each habitat).

A series of shallow natural lagoons dot the countryside in an arc to the west of Cadiz. Unfortunately, manyshallow lakes have disappeared altogether due to the abstraction of water to feed the intensification ofagriculture in the area (and many ‘lagunas’ named on GoogleEarth clearly no longer exist). These lagunasare home to specialities like Black-necked Grebe, Ferruginous Duck, White-headed Duck, PurpleGallinule & particularly Crested Coot. Numerous small ‘agricultural’ reservoirs have sprung up throughoutthe area and some of these are gradually silting up and may provide habitat for birds although most areinaccessible. For example, one small lake, sometimes worth a quick look if you're passing, is beside theA381’s ‘servicio road’ (c1km north of junction 24). I’ve had Red-crested Pochard, White Stork, LittleRinged Plover etc. here, but others have reported White-headed Duck and even Crested Coot. Severallarge reservoirs (embalse) have also been developed in recent years and, although they tend to hold lessexciting birds than 'natural' waters, they can attract various species. The Embalse de Bornos (just west ofArcos) is reckoned to be the pick of the bunch although, following a reintroduction programme, two pairs ofOsprey now breed on Embalse de Barbate (south of Alcalá). Note that, particularly following drier winters,many lagunas (& marshes) dry out leaving nothing except a shallow pan of sun hardened mud byJuly/August. If wetland birds are your target, come in spring.

The east bank of Guadalquivir has some fantastic wetlands which support many marshland birds as well asbeing one of the best areas to look for Spanish Imperial Eagle. Another interesting habitat is salinemarshland (esp. those near Cadiz and Trebujena) and the star bird here is Lesser Short-toed Lark. Thesmall, shallow lakes are particularly noted for the White-headed Duck and Marbled Teal. Other interestingwater birds present here may include Flamingo, Purple Gallinule, Black-necked Grebe, all the usualspecies of duck (including Red-crested Pochard) and a large population of exotic herons (e.g. Little Bittern,Little & Cattle Egrets, Night, Purple, Squacco and Great White Herons). Gull-billed, Whiskered andCaspian Terns occur, as does Slender-billed Gull. All familiar British waders are to be found, but mayjoined by Collared Pratincole, Black-winged Stilt, and, less often, Marsh Sandpiper in the appropriateseason.

As ever in this part of Spain the skies need to be scanned constantly for passing vultures, small eagles,harriers and kestrels (both species). Penduline Tit has bred, but more are present in the winter reedbedswhen they are also joined by Bluethroat. This habitat is also home to various warblers; resident Cetti's andsummer visitors such as the abundant Great Reed and the very scarce Savi's Warbler. Tamarisk tanglesaround lagunas are the place to look for the scarce (Western) Olivaceous Warbler.

Mountain & forest

Grazalema from above Ubrique

The lush wooded valleys of Alcornocales, Grazelema and other sierras are one of the great treasures of thearea. The Alcornocales are sandstone and home to the largest cork forest in the world. Here woodlandspecies such as Nuthatch, Robin, Mistle Thrush, Blackbird, Chaffinch, Great-spotted Woodpecker,Firecrest, Longtailed, Great, Blue, Coal and Crested Tits and Jay give the woods an almost 'northern'feel. However, the local chiffchaffs are now generally recognised as a distinct species – Iberian Chiffchaff –whilst the local race of Green Woodpecker seems to be heading that way. Bonelli's Warbler are commonand the treecreepers here are of the Short-toed variety.

Open and rocky areas have a more 'Mediterranean' feel with Blue Rock Thrush, Dartford Warbler,Blackeared Wheatear, Rock Bunting and Thekla Lark all being widespread. Grazalema, a limestone areato the north-east is the stronghold for Iberian Grey Shrike and Black Wheatear. Alpine Accentor winterhere and may sometimes breed. Grazalema also has a varied population of warblers including Subalpine,Orphean and Spectacled. (Common) Rock Thrush breeds sparsely in Grazalema.

The skies above should be checked for raptors such as Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Booted, Short-toed, Bonelli's (esp. Grazalema), Spanish Imperial and Golden Eagles (latter two species are scarce).Most swifts are Common, but Alpine are widespread and White-rumped occur. The usual hirundines aresupplemented by Crag Martin.

Lowland woodlands have Red-necked Nightjars. An isolated population of Azure-winged Magpie, the onlyone in the province, is found in Pinar de Monte Algaida, near Sanlucar de Barrameda.

Farmland and Lowland Habitats

Little Bustard habitat near Benalup

Although farmland (including olive groves) is less attractive ornithologically than other habitats, it does holdsome particularly interesting species. The open or lightly wooded areas (dhesa) attract Black-winged Kite.

Formerly a rare vistor this species is increasing rapidly in this region; 50+ pairs, and probably many more,breed. They can be seen in almost any area of lowland farmland or light woodland (excepting, perhaps,extensive vineyards). Although they may be seen near Alcala, Benalup, north and east of Medina Sidonia,around Arcos de la Frontera, Espera, etc., la Janda remains a favoured haunt (esp. in autumn and winter).Here (and elsewhere) they particularly favour perching on irrigation machinery. Montagu's Harrier andBlack Kite are common particularly on migration. Larks – mainly Crested & Calandra Larks but also insome areasShort-toed, can be abundant. Tawny Pipit is widespread but localised. Check areas with light sandy soil forHoopoe and if wooded Red-necked Nightjar. Stone Curlew are fairly widespread (if hard to see) and a fewareas still have Little Bustard. (Great Bustard, though, is now found no nearer than the rolling farmlandseast of Seville).

Rufous Bushchat are declining and very local, but can still be found on open rocky hillsides, along drystream beds and old vineyards). Tamarisk choked streams can hold (Western) Olivaceous Warblersalthough searching the margins of lagunas is often a better bet Knowing their song is a vital aid to findingthem. La Janda also hosts a wintering population of Common Crane, the odd Black Stork and a variety ofraptors (including Bonelli's Eagle and the occasional Spanish Imperial Eagle). Naturally, almost anyfarmland in the area will have some or all of the commoner birds noted in the introduction.

Coastal sites & Seawatching

Tres Amigos Saltpans - Bahai de Cadiz

Beach habitats throughout Europe are under pressure from tourism, but there remain sites in this area thatharbour interesting birds throughout the year. Kentish Plovers remain in good numbers, an assortment ofwaders may also turn up and gulls (inc. local Audouin's and Slender-billed) often loaf around on the quieterstretches of beaches. The immediate hinterland can concentrate passerine migrants (and hence be good forrarities). Raptors may be seen, sometimes harried by gulls, struggling ashore or heading towards Africaaccording to the season. On a non-birding note, coastal areas, especially where there are tamarisks andwhite broom, are the best areas to look for the rare Mediterranean Chameleon (although this species ismainly nocturnal). Jardín Botánico Celestino Mutis in Rota (on Avda de la Diputación), which is on yourright as you enter the town from the north, is said to be the best site for this charismatic animal in Spain.(The gardeners here are very proud of ‘their’ Chameleons and hence very helpful).

If the conditions aren't quite right, 'seawatching' can be a pretty dull, but at least it's much warmer here thanin the UK! With a good (i.e. onshore)winds Gannets, shearwaters (incCory's), terns, gulls (inc Audouin's) andskuas can all be observed (esp. inspring & autumn and particularly for thefirst few days of such winds). LesserCrested Terns are scarce but

regular visitors particularly in Mayand October. (Note to see them at LosLances beach you need to get therebefore the ubiquitous kite surfers).Remember that the rising or setting suncan make conditions near impossible soplan your seawatching accordingly. A

Cabo de Trafalgar

number of headlands are well sited for the observation of passing birds. In the right conditions in autumnCap Trafalgar, for example, can have a constant stream of hirundines, larks and finches heading for Africa,but be warned bird trappers are very active in the dunes here and elsewhere. Note too, that many suitableareas are 'out of bounds' due to military activity although in some areas (e.g. Sierra de la Plata) theserestrictions appear to be routinely ` ignored. One good option is to join a whale watching trip – particularly those searching for Orcas which venturefurther west into the Atlantic side of the straits. (Note – the Orca population in the Strait has been decimatedin recent years, but a few still turn up for a week or two in late July/early August. Until 2011 Wilson’s Petrelswere classed as extreme rarities here, but in July/August of that year up to 150 were seen on boat trips offTarifa (and once again in much smaller numbers in 2012). Little (Macronesian) Shearwater are raritieshere, but may also be more regular than records indicate. Several companies offer whale watching trips, butthe pick of the bunch is probably Turmares (www.turmares.com)

In addition, the ‘Centro de Interpretacion del Atun de Almadraba’ in Barbate ( www.atunalmadraba.com )may run boat trips to explore the cultural/historical importance of tuna fishing here (this was the case in 2012,but I'm uncertain whether these jaunts have survived the economic crash). These are cheaper (€20) thantrips out of Tarifa, but you probably won’t see cetaceans although you should get some seabirds.

MIGRATION

Migration and raptor passage

One of the single most enthralling experiences that a birdwatcher can hope to enjoy is the sight of a steady,visible passage of migrating birds of prey (plus storks). For simple reasons of geography and the dynamicsof flight, such movements tend to become concentrated at the coast (particularly near the narrow straits) andalong mountain ridges (the latter point especially the case for larger birds). This means that the passage ofbirds in this area (particularly near Tarifa) is one of the great bird spectacles of Europe. Great flocks (or"kettles") of Black Kites, Honey Buzzards, Marsh & Montagu's Harrier, Booted & Short-toed Eagles,Griffon & Egyptian Vultures (plus Black & White Storks) wheeling against the brilliant Mediterranean skyremains breathtaking no matter how many times it is observed.

Anywhere in an elevated position overlooking the straits can be good for watching raptors and storks, butthere are a number of migration watchpoints dotted along the coast. This shouldn't wholly distract, however,from the less conspicuous or spectacular movement of smaller birds. Be aware, though, that local conditionsand winds can mean that flocks of raptors seemingly intent on the crossing can slip back again makingaccurate counting difficult. As a general rule most active migration takes place from mid-morning to earlyafternoon (c10:00 – 13:00) and to a lesser degree in the late afternoon although plenty of raptors can bearound at ‘quieter’ times.

View across the Strait To Africa

Best sites : In westerlies - Punta Carneroin spring, Algorrabo in autumn; above Force 4 also try Gibraltar.In easterlies - Cazalla or Trafico; above Force 4 try Los Lances & Punta Paloma (Valdevaqueros)

and in still stronger winds (Force 5/6) Bolonia.

Wind direction not so crucial in autumn as it as in spring.

Note: in Spring conditions for migration in can seem perfect in Spain, but if the mountains in Morocco are clothed in clouds then few birds will move until they are clear! Equally, in autumn poor conditions further north, can make seemingly perfect days along the Straits disappointing. Extended periods of good clear

weather can result in birds passing over too high to be readiy observed. A period of unfavourable weather in southern/central/northern Spain followed by better light/moderate winds can result in a large movement.

Spring migration: Early February (earlier still for White Stork) to beginning of June.

Autumn migration: main passage mid-July to mid-October (sharply tailing off to the end of the month).

Ospreys, harriers, Sparrowhawks & falcons will push through in even the strongest winds. Storks, vultures and eagles will pause migration in stronger winds (more than Force 5). Few birds migrate in Force 7. Hence in stronger winds birds tend to congregate in the Alcornocales until winds drop – this is often the time to see large numbers passing south on the coast

White Storks & Short-toed Eagles tend to cross via Cazalla & the western part of the straits.Honey Buzzards tend to pass over to the east (Algarrobo)

The migration of raptors (and other broad-winged migrants) is systematically recorded by the ‘Migres’organisation (www.fundacionmigres.com) which has published annual totals (in Spanish) on the internet.However, at the time of writing (October 2015) their website seems to have been inoperative for severalmonths. Regular daily updates were made in 2014 on the Dutch site http://www.trektellen.nl/ which regularlyhad details of sightings at Cazalla and Algarrobo (usually posted within 24 hours). However, this wasn'tcontinued into 2015, but it's still worth checking if only for the historical record. Hopefully, things should onlyget better with the development of a new interpretive centre near Trafico (although its opening has beendelayed). The purpose built centre at Cazalla remains empty and whether birders are allowed up the track towatch here (a more pleasant place than the 'temporary' site on the opposite side of the road) continues to bedisputed. Access to Algorrabo is poor and potentially dangerous so take great care turning here. In 2014 themayor of Algeciras, who visited the site, promised to improve access .…… It is a great pity that theauthorities don't seem to fully realise the potential of this world class migration point which, properlymanaged, could bring in much needed 'green tourism'.

Many raptors, plus Black & White Stork, can be seen migrating on favourable days in 'spring' and 'autumn'.Note that spring passage starts in February and continues to the end of May whilst autumn passage extendsfrom August into October. However, unusual birds can be seen at any time of the year; in January 2007 aRűppell's, two Black Vultures and a Lammergeier were reported in a large flock of Griffons near Tarifa,Cádiz. The occasional rare eagle, Long-legged Buzzard and Eleonora's Falcon also show up from time totime. A couple of important points to remember:-

• Peak migration - each species peaks at different periods (see below). • Comfort – if you’re into serious raptor watching take a comfortable folding chair Drink – take plenty of water

to drink.Wind direction - Broad winged migrants like raptors tend to drift with the wind so determining the best placefrom which to watch depends on whether the wind is from the east or west. So naturally after strong orprolonged westerlies birds drift towards Gibraltar (and beyond), in similar easterlies they drift towards Boloniawhilst in calm or light winds they congregate around Tarifa. A prolonged spell of unsuitable winds can delaymovements making them all the more impressive when favourable conditions occur. Raptors also like a goodclear view of across the straits before they move in numbers. Also note that counting can be difficult as somebirds seem to head out towards Africa, only to drift back to Europe further along the coast.

Although overshadowed by raptor migration, the migration of passerines (plus swallows, etc) across thestraits and along the coast can be impressive. In spring – a long season in southern Spain extending fromFebruary (or earlier) and into May – coastal bushes can be alive with Pied Flycatchers and all manner ofwarblers whilst groups of Bee-eater mellifluously announce their presence. In August small birds move southagain with the scrub again harbouring many species many of which are rare or scarce in the UK (e.g.Wryneck) , Come October huge numbers of finches, larks, swallows, etc follow the coast giving opportunitiesfor 'vis migging'.

Seabird Migration:-

Although some of the species expected on a seawatch in northern Europe – notably seaducks, divers andGuillemot – are absent, other familiar species like Gannet, Arctic & Great Skua, Razorbill, Puffin, Great ,Arctic & Pomarine Skua (in order of frequency), most terns (except Arctic) and gulls are frequent onpassage and in winter. Less familiar species such as Balearic, Yelkouan and Cory's Shearwater, Gull-billed and Caspian Tern, Auduoin's & Slender-billed Gull, can be seen whilst amongst the passingshearwaters, gulls and terns are unfamiliar species. Despite a dearth of records Wilson's Petrel seems to bea late summer visitor (esp around pods of Orca). Seawatches often produce other species (inc. birds of prey)and Spoonbill

Good seawatching sites include NW 1 Chipiona .NW13 Cadiz, SW 4 Cabo Roche SW 5 Trafalgar, PuntaCarnero SW 11. The first four sites are best in the morning to avoid looking into the setting sun.

Sea Mammals:-

Trips out of Tarifa regularly record seven species – including resident Long-finned Pilot Whale,Bottlenosed, Common and Striped Dolphins and Orcas (often best in late summer). Sperm Whale alsoturn up tin late spring and summer. Fin Whales also occur. n red tuna

Information CentresThere is an information centre at Centro de Visitantes Huerta Grande off the Algeciras bound car-riage way halfway between that city & Tarifa. It has a new & impressive educational display. Some of the staff speak excellent English, Although the ‘new’ centre at Cazalla remains empty, a new centre is being built nearby (Feb 2011). The Colectivo Ornitológico Cigüeña Negra (Cocn) has a small information centre (on the N 340/E 5 south of Torre de la Pena near Tarifa). The staff here are helpful, but often have only limited English. Note, however, that this building seems to be locked up and unmanned quite frequently of late; possibly indicative of Spain's economic prob-lems). A little further north along the N-340 is an information centre for the area (Punto del Inform-acion del P.N. Del Estrecho), but take care as the turning for the centre is on a bend.

Fuente de Piedra - the most regular site in Spain for lesser Flamingo

Further Afield

There's little point leaving Cádiz province or the ‘border areas’ of adjacent provinces unless you're desperateto see those few Iberian specialities not to be found here. The 'Coto Donana', however, is an iconic site andwell worth the visit even if most birds can be found closer to home. I have, however, added an Appendixwith several sites in Seville Province that are within a couple of hours drive from the centre of Cadiz Province(this includes sites for species like Black-bellied Sandgrouse (difficult) and Great Bustard (regular) whichno longer occur in the province or species which are easier to see in Seville (e.g. Roller & RufousBushchat). The main route to the Coto Donana is via Seville's ring road which can get badly clogged withtraffic so an early start (i.e. before 7:00 AM) is essential. Using minor roads and cross the Guadalquivir toCoria del Rio can be slow and tedious (unless exploring Brazo del Este en route). However, a new motorwaysouth of Seville (starting near the airport, crossing the A4/E5 near Dos Hermanas and eventually, crossingthe Guadalquivir at Coria) should make a visit to the Coto more feasible when (if) it opens (due 2013, butdelayed - 2015/16?).

Black Vulture is surprisingly scarce in Cadiz province, but can be seen in Sierra de Aracena (an hour ormore north of Seville). I have found Black Vultures particularly easy to see from the hill above Almonaster dela Real (which is worth a visit for its charming restored mosque). Venturing further west into Portugalincreases chances of seeing bustards. All these species can be best found in southern Extremadura(Badahoz province). The best areas are at least 4 hours from Alcalá. Badajoz also has good populations ofRoller, Black-bellied Sandgrouse & Great Bustard (for details see Garcia & Paterson) For Dupont's Lark,the nearest sites are east of Granada (i.e. over 3 hours drive), but these are not generally reckoned to bevery easy places to find this extremely elusive species; NE Spain is far better. Similarly, Trumpeter Finch isbest looked for well beyond Cádiz. Fuente de Piedra may, however, be worth a longer than average trek(c2¾ hours) since it often has Lesser Flamingos and is only 100km further down a good fast motorway fromthe sites given for the Seville farmlands.

SITE GUIDE

Note that this is a constantly evolving record so some details are not yetfinalised (and probably never will be!). It is also meant to be interactive so anyadditions, comments or observations would be most welcome (my emailaddress is given at the end of this account). In the past I’ve wasted too muchsearching for specific birds at various sites only to discover later that thespecies no longer occurs there.

For convenience I have divided the province into three broad, somewhat arbitrary, regions – largelybased on the lines of communication. The map above shows these areas and the sites covered inthese notes - see also the introductory maps at the start of each section. (For sites inSeville/Malaga/Gibraltar - see Appendix 1).

Star System (*** ** & *)These notes are now so long, detailed and verbose that those new to the area might struggle to sortthe ‘wheat from the chaff’ and confuse minor sites with ‘the real deal’. Based entirely on my ownprejudices and with an element of guesswork, I have arbitrarily categorised sites (inc. sub-sites)using a simple three star system:

*** = Omit at your peril - a major, usually well known, site with a good variety of species and aproven track record for producing those ‘key’ species that visitors want to see.

** = Worth a detour and not somewhere to miss if you're passing - a good site with avariety of species and/or the possibility of producing ‘key’ species that visitors want tosee.

* = Check if you've time when you’re passing - generally little known or with fewer ‘mustsee’ species; somewhere to visit if you want to make your own discoveries! Alsoincludes some ‘family/partner friendly’ sites where you can do some birding on the sly!

Note – properly exploring all *** sites would probably take over a week and all ***/** sites a month ormore, but I hope it helps! Remember too that your priorities and prejudices may not be the same asmine ……

Senderos (Footpaths)Many birders, myself included, spend far too little time walking and too much time sitting behind thewheel. Hence I’ve tried to suggest a variety of walking routes that should produce an interestingselection of birds. There are, of course, far more footpaths than I’ve been able to mention, but thesecan be seen on “Wikiloc” (in GoogleEarth click on ‘Gallery’ -‘wikiloc’ is one of the options) or in auseful online booklet on the footpaths in Cadiz -http://issuu.com/cadizturismo/docs/300senderoscadiz . . Some paths in the Alcornocales and, evenmore so, in Grazalema are steep and rugged, but many cover flat ground and are easily walked.Most footpaths tend to be linear so if walking far you will need to get back to your starting point.Access to two cars is ideal, but if not check bus routes (where possible catch the bus to your startingpoint to avoid the worry of missing that vital connection) and the availability of taxis. Two majorproblems that face the walker in Spain which rarely troubles them in the UK; the heat and bulls. Theintense sun and heat can make longer walks difficult or even dangerous unless sensible precautionsare taken (water, headgear, etc). In Spain the bulls aren't the docile animals found in the UK, butfighting bulls (“torros bravos”) which are very aggressive and dangerous. They should be keptbehind a double fence and the fields well posted with warnings – but the Spanish aren’t always goodat following rules.

é- Disabled AccessI have also tried to indicate how ‘wheelchair’ friendly each site is, but would appreciate any input frompeople with mobility problems who will be more aware of difficulties and positives of any site than Iam myself. For many sites (e.g Bonanza) it may actually be advantageous to stay in the car and useit as a hide.

Note on the maps in this guide.

Most maps have remained unchanged from recent editions having extensively redrafted themseveral years ago, but some minor changes and amendments have been made (esp. in June 2014).Remember that I am not an expert cartographer so don’t expect Ordinance Survey accuracy (orconsistency!). I think, though, that the colour scheme/symbols are reasonably intuitive. Woodlandsare represented by stippled green with lighter woodland/scrub/olives groves being shown in a palershade of green (but the result is as much impressionistic as accurate!). Permanent (or nearly so)lagunas have a darker blue border, but seasonally flooded areas are shown in blue without a clearborder. Salinas are (usually) pale blue with darker blue dashes. Representing mudflats, saltmarshand derelict salinas was difficult as they are not always very distinct. These I have shown in a khaki

(stippled on larger scale maps). Rocky areas (esp. in Grazalema) are pale grey. Unfortunately,adding relief proved far to complex for my limited skills. With few exceptions the maps follow theusual convention of having north at the top (a basic compass ‘rose’ indicates where this rule hasbeen ignored). A rough scale is provided, but note that many roads in the mountains are soserpentine that the full extent of their corkscrewing cannot be shown on the map and distances ‘onthe road’ will be further than they might appear. ‘Motorways’ are light purple-blue, main trunk roadsare red and other roads are orange. Smaller roads are indicated by narrower orange lines and forrough tracks the line is dotted.

1 - NORTH-WEST CADIZ PROVINCE

Introduction - This area is roughly defined by the Atlantic to the west, the Chiclana-Medina Sidonia road to the south and, broadly, a line running NE from Medina Sidonia (to Arcos de la Frontera and Villa Martin) to the east. Essentially this area encompasses the lower reaches of the Guadalquivir, thelagunas of the Cadiz hinterland and much of the area’s farmland (although the vineyards – esp. near Jerez – are often a poor habitat for birds and a number of farmland species are scarce here). Most of the important wetland sites – saline coastal wetlands and fresh water lagoons - in the province are found here. Several sites hold key species such as Crested Coot, Purple Gallinule, Marbled &, White-headed Ducks & Olivaceous Warblers. Some lagunas may dry out in summer (esp. after

dry winters). The lowland is lightly wooded (often with pines) which, although comparatively less interesting, can hold good birds (e.g. Azure-winged Magpie in Pinar de Algaida). The Spanish atlas shows Rufous Bushchat along the border with Seville here, but I know of no sites in the vicinity – perhaps you can find them! One or two sites offer good seawatching (in the mornings). The mouth of the Guadalquivir is also the best site in Spain for Little Swift (see Rare Birds in Spain website www.rarebirdspain.net/home.htm).

NW 1 - ** Chipiona Area – Chipiona, La Jara, etc

Why visit? – seawatching, waders & a good chance of Little Swift and, in Rota,Chameleon

é- good access at Chipiona; viewing possible from venta at La Jara but soft sand on beach

Chipiona is a popular seaside resortwith much of Seville apparentlydecamping there in the summermonths when it is best avoided. Offseason it much quieter. It has someof the best seafood restaurants inSpain, but the attraction for birders isthat it has a good track record forturning up Little Swift and the oddrarity. As you leave the fast dualledsection of the A480 from Sanlucar it isoften worth detouring to the coast atLa Jara (a - via Camino de la Reyettasecond exit off the first roundabout).At high tide there’s often a smallwader roost along the coast heretowards Montijo; this may have

godwit, Curlew, Whimbrel, Oystercatcher, Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover etc plusvarious gulls (Audouin’s, Mediterranean & Slender-billed). During passage be sure to check theterns for Caspian and, much less often, Lesser-crested amongst the more usual Sandwich, Littleand Commons. A venta on the beach at La Jara can be an excellent place to watch the waders asthe tides rise or passing gulls/terns at high tide. Monjito/Punta del Perro (b) is not as good asChipiona for seawatching, but it’s less public and you can still see passing terns and, in season,skuas here. As noted above, this area has a good track record for turning up Lesser Crested Tern(e.g. 4 birds in July 2012) and may well be as good as Playa de los Lances (SW 9.2) which is oftencited as the premier site for this species (largely because, I suspect, it's more frequently visited dueto its proximity to raptor watching sites near Tarifa). Heading into Chipiona along the A480 (which has more than its fair share of roundabouts!) turn intothe town following signs for the town centre. After c400m to turn sharp right to the harbour(signposted ‘Puerto’) which you reach after c300m. Turn left and park by the harbour. It’s a about1km to the lighthouse (it’s the tallest in Spain so you can’t miss it), but the walk is well worth it as enroute you can check the beach for gulls, terns, etc. (c). The pools here, formed by low stone walling,are an ancient fish trap and can be good for for waders (several rarities, inc. a Greater Yellowlegs in2009, have turned up in this area). Don’t forget to check the small harbour for unusual gulls. Keepscanning for swifts as small flocks Little Swift are regularly reported from the ‘mouth of theGuadalquivir/Chipiona beach’. I find mornings (up to c10:00 best, but they can be seen here at anytime (inc. winter as they are resident although less frequent). I have seen up to 16 birds here, but 21were seen in May 2011. In the morning when the light is good, the point by the lighthouse is a good,if somewhat public, place to watch seabirds (skuas, Gannets, Cory's Shearwater etc.). LesserKestrels also breed.

Chipiona has a deservedly high reputation for good food – esp. seafood; the small venta in theharbour has very fresh & well priced sea food and excellent coffee.

If in this area consider continuing south along the coast from Chipiona into Rota for Chameleon.Head for Jardin de Botanico de Celestino Mutis (see below) . Although the pine clad dunes youpass also have Chameleon, this tiny park (open 10:00 AM) is probably the easiest place to see thisspecies in Spain. The garden’s staff speak no English, but are extremely proud of ‘their’Chameleons and very helpful if you can’t locate them. Chameleons emerge in late April if theconditions are warm and sunny (mornings are best). Note, however, in the breeding season it maybe closed.

Access: For Chipiona just follow the A480 west from Sanlucar following signs for Chipiona. Although you can get closer to the lighthouse by, its generally easier to park near the harbour and walk. This allows you to check the small harbour and prom for gulls etc (and the skies for swifts). Be warned that if you drive into ‘old’ Chipiona

you’;; find a maze of one-way streets and pedestrianised areas! (NB – the link road to the port from the roundabout (shown on Google maps & several atlases) doesn’t actually exist)! For La Jara - arriving on the A480 (as per Chipiona) take the second right (Camino de la Reyerta) off the first roundabout on this road. La Jara is at the end of this road (c2km – minor roads take you to other access points,but it’s easier to walk along the beach. ).For Rota Instead of going into Chipiona, head south along the A491 for c9km until you reach a turning for Rota(A2076).Take this for a little under 6km and park on the left in Ave. de los Toreros opposite the Jardin de Botanico deCelestinoMutis.

NW2 – *** Sanlucar de Barrameda-Bonanza-Trebujena Area

é- Many sites here can be viewed from tracks and roads making this a good site for thosewith poor mobility.

This area contains several overlapping and closely related “sub-sites” (see map) all of which can bevisited in a single day. They can pay revisiting since the state of the tide or migration can make adifference to what’s seen.

Although lacking the reputation of the Coto Donana (across the Guadalquivir), many of the speciesfor which that site is famous can be found as easily here (or nearby). Only Azure-winged Magpiebucks the trend by being confoundedly elusive in the Pinar de Monte Algaida – the only site for thisiconic bird in the province.

Treatment has been divided into six sub-sites for convenience although in reality one runs intoanother. For simplicity an approach from the south is assumed, but it can equally well approachedfrom Trebujena – use the maps to adjust details accordingly. The Sanlucar area is also said, by onereference, to be a stronghold for Rufous Bushchat – but they elude me and, it seems, all otherobservers here (including one Jerez birder with family in the area!)

NB – Although Sanlucar has a notorious one-way system navigating through on theCA 624 to Bonanza isn't usually too bad with care (follow signs & look out for thefootball stadium which you pass en route), but it can be very tricky if unused todriving in Spain and is also somewhat congested at times. However, if heading forNW 2.4 & NW 2.5, it's easier and quicker to take the CA 9027 to avoid bothBonanza and much of Algaida; if you're happy to take a good gravel track (c2km)it's just as good a route to Bonanza Pools (NW2.2) and salinas (NW2.3).

NW2.1 – * Sanlucar Promenade & Guadalquivir ferries

Why visit? – terns & gulls (inc. Audouin’s) plus ferry across (and up) the Guadalquivir plus ice creams & sea food!

é- excellent viewing from promenade; check access on boat trip at museum

Although, not a ‘fully fledged’ birding site, Sanlucar promenade can none the less produce somegood birds and may be a good compromise with partners or families (esp. the ferry up the river).Driving into the town can be a nightmare thanks to the notorious one-way system. Headingtowards the northern end (i.e. towards Bonanza) avoids this. Here a touristy boat trip(embarking near the yacht club) takes you on a trip a few km up the river landing on the Cotoside and at a good site beyond Bonanza saltpans [see also NW2.3 (g)]. In the process you canget good views of the birdlife of the river – terns, waders and, overheard raptors. Also a ferryruns across the river to the long beach that delimits the Coto Donana to the south (both ferryroutes are shown on Map 4 as a red dotted line). The heavily wooded dunes across the rivershould hold Azure-winged Magpie, but I’ve not explored this option. Lesser Kestrels, Pallid &Common Swifts are present over the town and Little Swift is an outside possibility. With luck,the foreshore may hold Audouin's and Slender-billed Gulls and Caspian Tern. If you’re ‘into’seafood, the restaurants along the beach beyond the yacht club are considered amongst thebest in Spain.

Access: Follow signs for Sanlucar de Barrameda. Driving into the town can be a nightmare thanks to thenotorious oneway system and in summer parking can be difficult. Heading towards Bonanza at thenorthern end and then towards the river just south of the football stadium

NW 2.2 - *** Bonanza Pools

Why visit? – good views of White-headed Duck, Purple Gallinule, Little Bittern, Collared Pratincole, etc; chance of Crested Coot, Marbled Teal & Ferruginous Duck

é- Pools easily viewed from the road

This small, obscure and tricky to find site punches well above its weight and is well worth a visit.If coming from Sanlucar bear right as you reach the outskirts of Bonanza to get on CaminoColorado or continue on the CA 624 and turn right onto the Camino Troncosa (opposite a busstop). Alternatively, as described here, approach on the CA 9027 and make the final approachalong a good gravel track (avoiding Sanlucar/Bonanza in the process). Arriving along the CA 9027 allows you the opportunity of birding sooner than if you come throughthe suburbs of Sanlucar; look out for raptors, Red-rumped Swallow, etc. Two uninspiringembanked plastic lined agricultural reservoirs, on the left c3.5 km from the A471 (marked by twosmall ‘silos’) can be worth a quick look (a) [a rough track here allows you to safely pull off theroad]. Despite their unpromising appearance the ponds may hold White-headed Duck andattract marsh terns, Gull-billed Tern and Little Gull (100+ during passage) or even, if dry,waders. Little Swift has been seen here in early spring. There’s sometimes a large CollaredPratincole colony on the field by the ponds which is worth a stop as, if present, the birds oftenshow extremely well (esp. for photography). The ditch here has Great-reed Warbler andsometimes Little Bittern.

Continuing along the CA 9027 you have an intensively farmed (and near birdless) area to theleft, but more bird friendly grazing marshes to the right. The latter area, which can be explored viarough tracks (b), holds Short-toed & Calandra Larks, Tawny Pipit, Montagu’s Harrier, etc andwhere flooded, Glossy Ibis, waders, etc. (see NW2.6) Note that the large embanked reservoirhere holds little holding even less than those at (a). The heavily farmed area has very little ofinterest, but the access tracks here are a good short-cut to 'Bonanza Pools' (see map). Afterseveral kilometres the CA 9027 lurches sharp left here (look out for stacked barrels marking theturning) to take you on to Algaida village where you can go left for the pools and the salinas(NW2.3) or right for the pines and marshes

(NW2.4/2.5). Note – you can continue, with care, straight on along a rough track where the roadturns right to reach the Guadalquivir.

However, the main interest here are ‘Bonanza pools’ (sometimes referred to as 'CaminoColorado' pools) which, although small, offer excellent views of some quality birds; theyfrequently 'out perform' better known & celebrated sites like Laguna de Medina! Well worth thedetour. These old sandpits (c) are between Bonanza and La Algaida in a heavily farmed area(south of Bonanza saltpans – NW2.3 ). They're located in a maze of tracks and easily missed.Arriving from the CA 9027 take the good track after (a) to a T-junction where you go right andthen left (ignore earlier turning) which takes you to Camino Colorado and the pools (see map).Otherwise approach as described in the opening paragraph. These pools are best explored onfoot, but take care and remember to look out for traffic which can be surprisingly heavy. Pull offon this road by the pines (for shade) on the Bonanza side of the smallest pool (i).

This and the pool opposite (ii) are superb for Purple Gallinule, Red-crested Pochard and,particularly, White-headed Duck. The latter can be seen easier, and at closer range here, than atlarger, better known sites in the area. Check Coots here very carefully as Crested Coot hasbeen present in recent years. Ferruginous and Marbled Duck also occur. The larger pool (ii) isthe most reliable site I know for seeing Little Bittern and other herons here may includeSquacco, Night and Purple Herons. Remember to take care when birding from the causewayas it can get surprisingly busy (sometimes with heavy lorries). Check for aerial feeders like Red-rumped Swallow and less often Little Swift which has been reported here a few times.Unfortunately, despite the presence of such rare species, this site is unprotected.

The pines here hold Red-necked Nightjar so if here late in the day it might be worth waiting untildusk. Since the first two pools usually produce all the desired 'goodies' I rarely walk as far as thethird pool (iii), but it's certainly worth checking. A smaller pool nearer Bonanza ( iv) is usually dry,overgrown and often marred by dumped rubbish, but is mentioned here to avoid confusion.

Access: See maps & notes above for access

NW 2.3 - *** Bonanza Saltpans

Why visit? – waders (inc. rarities), terns (inc. Caspian), BoPs (chance of SIE) & larks (inc.Lesser Short-toed).

é - tracks at Bonanza permit excellent car bound observation; track along river has poorsandy sections

The large saltpans at Bonanza (north of Sanlucar) are nowopen to birdwatchers and you do not require specialpermission to enter as previously. A large “Parque Natural”now stands at the entrance (a) This habitat is home toFlamingo, Slender-billed Gull (very easy to see inspring/summer) , numerous waders on passage, CaspianTerns, Whiskered Terns, wintering (and passage) BlackStork, etc. It is also one of the better areas to look for thesomewhat localised Red Kite. This area, particularly as youlook over towards the Coto can be excellent for Black Kite,Booted & Short-toed Eagles and, with luck, SpanishImperial Eagle.Drive carefully along the track (b) that bisects the saltpansinspecting each one for waders. At the far end there’s a T-junction (c). Vehicular access to the right (i.e. up to a smallwhite pumping station) may be restricted. In spring 2009 agate was erected across the road - evidently to stop ‘drinkingparties’ of local youths gathering there rather than restrictingaccess by birders. However, by spring 2010 all thatremained was the mangled remains of the barrier andaccess was open again. The owners may yet put in astronger barrier. This would be a pity since this area is often

very the most productive being esp. good for waders. However, even if the barrier is replaced(although there was no sign of this by 2014) I gather that pedestrian access by birders would betolerated. (see also NW2.4). A small pumping station (d) here often gushes out water. As a resultboth Little and Whiskered Tern can be seen fishing here at very close range. There are also pathshere, often used by crab ‘fishermen’, which radiate out across the bird filled the salinas. By turning left at (c) you reach the river (e) which is often worth a look as birds commute back andforth here (inc. raptors gulls, terns and waders. Just prior to the riverbank a rough track (f) on theright is drivable, in good conditions, to the distant tamarisks about 1 km away. This allows goodviews across old saltpans which can hold many birds. The tamarisks here can be good for migrants.This area can be good for larks – both Lesser and ‘Greater’ Short-toed are present (all ‘crested’larks should be examined carefully as Thekla has been reported here). Check small warblers in thisarea for Spectacled – generally fairly common and easy to see in the spring/summer. Look out forgreyish hybrid Little x Reef Egret here (and elsewhere). Birds are reported on an almost annualbasis on the marismas where they are roughly twice as common as apparently 'pure' Reef Egrets.

A further 3km beyond this (or c4km from the start of the track if you prefer to walk to the tamarisks)there’s an excellent ‘observatorio’ (watchpoint) at (g) which overlooks some good ‘wader pools’which can be good when other areas are dry. If you’re confident and careful you can reach this areaby car and even continue on towards Trebujena (see NW2.4 & 2.5) – I’ve done it in a hire car, but itreally should only be tackled, if at all, in a 4x4 . (Note - The touristy boat trip – see NW2.1 - brieflystops here). If you take the route along the river look out for Spanish Imperial Eagles over theCoto.

Alternatively you can try viewing the other side of these saltpans by exploring the roads which turnoff towards these saltpans from village of Algaida. These are all conveniently, if boringly, namedafter letters of the alphabet. The one nearest the woodland (Calle Algaida ‘N’) gives good views overboth Laguna Tarelo (h – see also NW 2.4) and, more distantly, the saltpans. Calles ‘G’, ‘H’, ‘L’, ‘J’ &‘K’ also run down to the saltpans and allow some views of the area, but are probably not usuallyworth exploring.

Access: See under access for NW2.5

NW2.4 - *** Laguna de Tarelo & Pinar de Monte Algaida

Why visit? – Laguna - White-headed Duck (scarce in recent years), breeding egrets &herons (esp. Night & Squacco Heron plus Spoonbill); Pines – Azure-wingedMagpie (elusive), breeding Black Kites & Booted Eagle etc; Tree Sparrow for thetrio!

é- good access by car (and bus) to pines; good path to Laguna Tarelo (inadequate viewing sceen); path (b) unsuitable for wheelchairs; track through woods; good level cycle

path follows the track through the woods.

Laguna de Tarelo (a) - as you enter Algaida pine wood this small lake is through the pines onthe left (this is also the furthest point accessible by the bus from Sanlucar). The tree clad islandhere holds all expected tree nesting herons (- including Squacco Heron which can be elusive)plus Spoonbill. The laguna’s margins hold Purple Gallinule and the reedbed has PendulineTit (winter/passage) and Waxbills. Onthe water there are usually Black-necked Grebe and Red-crestedPochards whilst there’s also a chance ofMarbled Teal (although other nearbysites are usually better). This is also a‘classic’ site for White-headed Duck, butworryingly numbers (in summer) haveplummeted in recent years and on somevisits they may not be present (although12+ present in May 2012). By latesummer I have sometimes found thispool to pinkish-brown coloured and foulsmelling and almost entirely birdless.Bonanza pools (NW2.3) nearby is abetter bet for this species since, althoughthey can hold fewer birds, these can beseen at very close range. In very earlyspring (late February!) this can be agood area for the first Pallid Swifts ofthe season. Little Swift has also beenreported here.

There’s a pleasant circular walk from thelaguna (b) through the trees, but, although you may well find several species of lizard or evensnakes, you will need a lot of luck to get Azure-winged Magpie the main target here. As notedunder NW 2.5, the back of the laguna can also be observed by taking the last turning on yourleft as you approach the woodlands (Calle Algaida N), but take care not to disturbnesting/roosting egrets here. You also get views over the back of the saltpans from this track.

Pinar de Monte Algaida - as noted earlier this woodland is the site for Azure-winged Magpie(and its only haunt in Cadiz province). However, this species can be very elusive here and somepeople fail to see them on numerous visits. Autumn/winter seem better than the summer. Trythe areas around the picnic site (c) – the first turning off the track to the right. (If this is a must-see species you’d do better to drive round - via Seville - to the Coto Donana). This ‘picnic area’track can also be good for Hoopoe. Continue down this track to overlook farmland (d) – oftengood in early spring for swifts and herons. The woods hold 100+ pairs of Black Kite (esp.around e) and rather fewer Booted Eagle all of which noisily make their presence felt. Thewoods also have Melodious Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper and Tree Sparrow (a scarcespecies in SW Spain). Red-necked Nightjars occur in the summer. By walking west you can getgood, if distant views over Los Portugueses Salt Pans. At the northern end of the woods the roadtakes you (g) to the nearby Los Portugueses Salt Pans/Guadalquivir marshes (NW2.5) if youturn left or, if you go right, along a poor track to the east of the wood and on to Martin Miguel’pools (NW2.2). (Ignore the minor track on the left as you emerge from the woods as it is gatedafter a few hundred metres)

…………

NB – in 2013 the track through the woods was repaired and easily drivable, but may quicklydegrade after a couple of wet winters. An alternative route to W 2.5. is to take the track to theeast of the woods (see 'c' on Map 5).

Access: See under access for NW2.5

NW2.5 - *** Los Portugueses Salt Pans/Guadalquiver Marshes

Why visit? – Five species of lark (Crested, Thekla, Calandra & both ‘short-toed’) Spectacled Warbler, raptors (SIE possible), herons, waders, Marbled Duck, wintering Bluethroat; possible Pin-tailed Sandgrouse

é- good viewing along tracks, but path to e often difficult

Essentially a continuation of the drive through Pinar de Monte Algaida (NW2.4) and a4x4/walking link to Bonanza saltpans (NW2.3). Once again the following assumes that you arearriving from the direction of Sanlucar (for directions see NW 2.4) although it is equallypossible to arrive via Trebujena.

Exit from Algaida pines onto raised track (a). To the right this degenerates into a potholedtrack linking to ‘Martin Miguel’ pools etc (see map), but, after an indifferent start, to the left theroad soon improves to what is now a good tarmac road (b-h). Take care as some motoristsspeed along this section. This road allows good views over the marshes -. Short-toed Eagleoften perch on the pylons here so have your camera ready. All the usual BoPs can be seen(inc. Red Kite). Cranes can sometimes be seen on the marshes and a rarity isn’t impossible –I’ve had Rose-coloured Starling here.

Just before a sluice gate (b) turn onto a rough track which takes along the Guadalquivir andgives good views of Los Portugueses salt pans (salinas). Drive slowly along this track (c) asgood birds can be seen anywhere along here. (Ignore the basic disintegrating ‘screen’ whenyou reach the river – it’s probably better to use your car as a hide). To the south are poorsaline marshes which reputedly have Pin-tailed Sandgrouse whilst along the river there are aseries of small ‘wader’ pools. This track often has obliging Greater & Lesser Short-toedLarks – again keep your camera ready! Spectacled Warbler can show well too.

Park where the gravel runs out and the salinas begin (d) to scan the area; I’ve had Lannerhere. From here you can walk (or take a 4x4) 4km to the good pools noted in NW 2.3 (g).After c1km taller vegetation on the right holds very obliging Spectacled Warblers. BothCrested and Calandra Lark (in addition to both of the short-toed variety) may also beencountered. Check all Crested Lark as Thekla has also been reported in the area. BlackKites and Booted Eagles will be constantly in view during passage and the summer, but alsolook out for Spanish Imperial Eagles over the Coto. Bonanza salt pans are c8km – a longwalk there and back on a hot day! Return along the track to the sluice (b) to follow the roadtowards Trebujena.

The first pool (Codo de la Esparraguera) on the left (f) just after the sluice often holds goodnumbers of Red-crested Pochard and is probably one of the best places in Spain to catch upwith Marbled Teal (although not so when the pools are too dry when it can be good forwaders). Despite having much of the vegetation dug out and a ditch excavated here inSeptember 2012, the species were still present in 2013/2014. This species may also be seenaround the isolated reeds next to the road in the second pool. In recent years (2015) CrestedCoot has also been seen here so check Coots carefully The dry marshes to the right (south)here may also conceal Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. In spring the pools can be excellent forSpoonbills and always has at least a few Flamingo (which present often a good opportunityfor photography). A track on the left at the far end of this pool allows a good view over thesalinas (and Marbled Teal are sometimes in the ditch here). The saline scrub here alsoattracts Spectacled Warbler and, in late autumn/winter/spring, check the wet ditches forBluethroat (g). Keep an eye on the ‘river traffic’ too as Gull-billed Terns (and much else) canbe seen here (h). Finally the metalled road it swings sharp right towards Trebujena, but thetrack continues further along the river. This track follows the river almost all the way to Brazodel Este and Seville beyond. The first kilometre or so is in fairly good condition, but after c2km it degenerates into a very badly potholed track only drivable – and then with extreme care– when dry. After c3km you reach a pair of obvious white buildings (marking an agriculturalcanal) after which the road is in a reasonable condition (see SV1 – Lebrija area).

Where the road swings away from the river there are some old salinas and beyond themsparsely vegetated fields (i). The salinas hold the usual variety of birds (and seeminglyparticularly attractive to Great White Egret) whilst the fields often have Collared Pratincole.

Continuing along the good tarmac road towards Trebujena after c1km you reach a track on theright (just before Cortijo de Alventus) which heads into the marshes for c3 km. This track ( j)again affords good views over the marshes. After c2km you reach an area that, when wet (inspring only), can be alive with birds – Gull-billed & Whiskered Tern, Squacco & Night Heronplus many waders. See also under NW2.6.

Access for all sites:

Via Algaida village - My preferred route along the A 471 towards Trebujena, then along ninor roads to La Algaida avoids congestion in Sanlucar and allows you reach birding sites more quickly! Head north from Jerez on the new A480 for Sanlucar, turning right onto the A 471 towards Trebujena. After 2.5 km turn off left onto a well signposted road (Av de Trebujena) back towards Sanlucar, but almost immediately swing right along a good newly tarmac’d local road. After 5.3 km this lightly used road swings sharp left into Algaida village i) Martin Miguel pools – c3.5km along the newly tarmac’d road off the Av. de Trebujena as noted above. ii) Bonanza saltpans – continue along the minor road and turn sharp right where the tarmac runs out (c7km). Continue into Algaida village, where after c2km, you turn left. Continue south, the road swings sharply to the right turning sharp right and then to the left. At the second bend (c3km from the crossroads) you turnright onto the access track for the saltpans (marked by a large Natural Park sign)..iii) Bonanza pools - Take a minor road (Camino Troncosa) on the left about 1km south of the turning for the saltpans. (it is just before you reach a large white industrial building on your right). The first pool comes in view after c500m – continue and take the first right to view the second pool. Arriving from Sanlucar continue along the CA 624 until you reach the far end of the village (near the lighthouse) where, instead of turning left & then right for La Algaida, turn right along Ctra del Faro, then fork left along Camino Colorado. The pools are a few km along this road. (See map for route from Martin Miguel Pools) iv) Laguna de Tarelo & Pinar de Monte Algaida follow the route for Bonanza sites, but at the crossroads turn right (north) to the woods v) Los Portugueses Salt Pans/Guadalquiver Marshes - continue though the woods and turn left along a raised track towards the river where you go left for Los Portugueses or right to follow the river towards Trebujena

Via Sanlucar – This is the ‘standard route’ to Bonanza and beyond, but is often congested. Enter Sanlucar on the main road going right towards Bonanza (and passing the football stadium in the process). Then adapt maps/directions to locate sites described above

Via Trebujena – Trebujena is a confusing maze of narrow one-way streets. To avoid these, take the Ctra de Sanlucar which heads north into the town c850m east of the A471/A2000 Jerez road junction. Go straight on (give or take a curve or two) for c2.3km until you turn right into Ronda de Palomare. This road, with a name change or two en route, reaches the river about 7.8km from the A471.

NW2.6 - ** Marismas de Chapatal / Trebujena Marshes

Why visit? – Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, waders (when wet), Glossy

Ibis, raptors é- tracks accessible with care – good viewing froma car.

This is north of the A471 Sanlucar-Trebujena road (and can be viewed distantly fromAlgaida area and the road to Trebujena along the Guadalquivir). It is a mix of poor qualitypasture, salt marsh and episodically flooded areas. It can be accessed off the A471 byseveral tracks (a, b & c on map) which allow a circuit round the area (take care the trackcan be badly rutted). The key bird here is Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, but it can be veryelusive being best looked for in early spring (Feb-March). Knowing the call is very useful.Locations (d) and (f) are said to be good for this species. However, there are few placeswhere you can safely pull over on what can be a very busy road to overlook (d); the ‘CalledelAlgarve’ track (mentioned below) may be a viable alternative route into this area. Onpassage and in summer look out for raptors such as Montagu’s Harrier, Short-ToedEagle, Red and Black Kites, etc. with Hen Harriers & Merlin in winter.

The wetter areas (see h, g & e on the map) attract various waders (inc. wintering WoodSandpiper and Little Stint) plus large flocks of Glossy Ibis. Black Stork is often bepresent in winter. The rough pasture land between (f) and (g) has numerous Shorttoed

Lark and theodd

Tawny Pipit in thebreeding season.This is also anexcellent area forearly ‘Yellow’Wagtails andwheatears. CollaredPratincole in thebreeding season.

Note – As noted under 2.5 several tracks in the area may warrant investigation. A track that heads west from Trebujena (starting, as the Calle del Algarve, near the northern end of Parque de la Toya) into the marshes for c5km kilometres may

then link with the track near the Cortijo de Adventus. I’m not sure how good these tracks are or whether they are open to the public, but the habitat looks interesting and worth a closer look…....

Access: All tracks turn north off the A471 Sanlucar-Trebujena road. Exit a is c6km east of the A480 main

SanlucarJerez road (and 120m east of the CA 3101). Exit b is c2.5km and exit c is c9km east of the

CA3101 (From the A2000 exit c is 4.5km, b 11.5km and a c14km to the west on the A471)

NW3 - ** Mesa de Asta Marsh

Why visit? – Active Gull-billed Tern colony, Collared Pratincole Montagu’sHarrier & waders

é - viewing from track off A2000; path may be negotiable by wheelchair by the determined.

Although not in any well known site guide, this marsh features in a recently published leaflet on‘‘nature routes’ produced by the Jerez tourist board – http://www.turismojerez.com/index.php?id=2253&L=1). Note, however, that by late summer the marsh can be bone dry and birdless. Thecurrent village of Mesas de Asta largely dates from the 1940s, but this is the ancient Tartessian andRoman site of Asta Regia which has been linked with the legend of Atlantis!

The marsh – Haza de la Torre - can be excellent with good numbers of Collared Pratincoles andGull-billed Terns here in season. The proximity of the site is often signalled by substantial flocks(<700) of Gull-billed Terns hawking over the cereal fields presenting a somewhat unexpectedspectacle (a) as you approach on the A 2000 from the north. In the valley below shallow, but distantand inaccessible floods and settling ponds (b) often hold large numbers of waders and Flamingos.You can pull off onto a track (c) east of themain road (as it bypasses Mesa de Asta),but the route up to the distant settlingpools and salt lake (b) is blocked by achained and padlocked gate. This maychange as the marsh and the old settlingpools (once used for the sugar beetindustry) are owned by Ebro Foods who,according to a document on the internet,intend to develop the potential of themarsh as part of the company’scommitment to the environment ….

From (c) you can get views over the marsh

but although Gull-billed Tern and

Pratincoles can pass at close range, a

‘scope is needed to scan the marshes (d)

from here. None the less it’s a good spot

to stop for Montagu’s Harrier, Lesser

Kestrel, Red-rumped Swallow, etc.

Fortunately, by following the track south for

a few hundred metres (towards a line of

small pylons) you reach a second less

substantial second track (e) which you can

follow on foot across the fields to the edge of the marsh. To access this you need to negotiate a

rather deep ford and the track itself is very poor so it's easier to tackle the area on foot (the ford is

easily bypassed) rather than by car.

Views of Gull-billed Tern from this path (e) can be stunning. This route allows access to thesouthern rim of the marsh. How far access along this track is permissible I am unsure, but I havewalked to (f) without problems(and others have driven it to this point). As already noted this site can hold Montagu’s Harrier,Flamingo, and many waders (eg Avocet, Black-winged Stilts etc.) according to season. It is oftena good spot to pick up odd species like Lapwing, Black-tailed Godwit, etc if you’ve missed themelsewhere plus a range of passage waders (e.g. Green & Wood Sandpipers, Little Ringed Plover,etc). In addition the marshes often attract Whiskered and Black Terns, Slender-billed andsometimes Little Gull.

If the ford isn't too deep then by following the track besides the A2000 further south you reach fieldswhich are sometimes flooded and large tracts of which are covered by thin halophytic vegetation.

(NB – take care where you park on this track as surprisingly large agricultural lorries regularly use it).I have seen Stone Curlew here and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse may be a possibility. An old drovers’road Canada Real Ancha (g) which runs from Mesas de Asta to the CA 3103 looks worth exploring.(The CA 3103 continues to Casablanca NW4 -see below). Access: Take the road between Jerez –Trebujena (A200). Pull off onto a dirt track just east of the main road(c9.5 miles north of the A4 near Jerez or 8km south of the A471 from Trebujena) just beyond turnings to Mesade Asta. This gives distant views across field to the marsh. Alternatively explore tracks as noted above.

NW4 - * Marismas de Casablanca Why visit? – Outside chance of some good birds – possibly Pin-tailed Sandgrouse - but

mainly to explore a little known area.

é - track down to marsh accessible by car – access beyond limited

This site, straddling the Cadiz-Seville border is added for it’s potential rather than a known trackrecord. When flooded it can attract huge numbers of waders and ducks.

Exit westwards from the NIV (signposted for Morabita) just south of two large and very obviousbuildings (grain elevators?) next to the railway line. Immediately after turning off the main road turnright to loop round behind the buildings and onto a gravel track running along beside the railway.(Note – I am not certain about access here,but have never had any problems and it isregularly used by farmworkers & other localsforaging for samphire). The bridge over thenew railway gives you excellent views across ashallow depression (a) which, when flooded isthen alive with thousands of Flamingos andwaders (inc. Collared Pratincole in summer) ,but when dry should be good for Pin-tailedSandgrouse (whose presence here isconfirmed by the Spanish atlas and my onefleeting sighting from a train). Continue alongthe track to view more good habitat. HenHarrier and Short-eared Owl present inwinter.

Returning to the CA 3103 head westwardsstopping where possible to obtain distant viewsacross the open area to the north. After c4kmthe metalled road swings sharply southwards(c13.5km from the junction with the A4 ifarriving from Jerez). However, take the goodgravel track (designated the CA0606!) roadthat turns to your right (or straight on if arrivingfrom Jerez on the CA 3103).

This decent track takes you c3km northwards and down to a shallow depression (c) from whichvarious well corrugated tracks radiate (one of which roughly follows the Cadiz/Seville border shownon map). A small lagoon to the east often attracts waterbirds but views are distant (unless youexplore on foot). With no signs banning access, it seems you can explore the surrounding habitats(dry saline marshes or shallow lagoons depending on recent rainfall) on foot. Pratincole, Flamingo,waders, terns, etc. are present, but the main draw here is the chance of seeing Pin-tailedSandgrouse.

Return to the sharp bend and continue towards Jerez along the CA 3103 (d). This drive can be

excellent for Montagu’s

Harrier, Gull-billed Tern (from the nearby colony at Mesa de

Asta) and may still hold the odd Little Bustard (still present in the area according to the SpanishAtlas). Roughly 8km from the sharp bend a rough track heads off to the right and towards Mesas deAsta – this might be worth walking as the habitat looks interesting.

Access: Access the CA 3103 off the N-IV north of Jerez (the junction is just south of where the main trainlinepasses under the road - marked by a huge white building). Service tracks run north from here for theconstruction of the new ‘AVE’ train line allowing access to interesting marshy areas. If approaching from Jereztake CA 3103 north from Jerez at junction 635 on the A4 (Autovia del Sur).

NW 5 - ** Laguna de los Tollos

Why visit? – A site for the adventurously minded ….. thanks to an ambitious restorationproject here this site is rapidly improving; Black-necked Grebe, Purple Gallinule, White-headed Duck, Ferruginous Duck, etc & Black-winged Kite.

é - viewing from track

Although little known outside the country, this laguna was something of a cause celebre in Spain. Inits prime it was the second largest laguna in the province and, until the opening of a large claypit in1976, was a very important site for Ferruginous, White-headed and Marbled Duck. After years ofprotest this claypit was closed in 1998 and €8M has been set aside for restoration (from theAndalucian junta and the EU). The heavy winter rains in recent years have helped nature reaffirmitself here as, in 2011, it was wet and alive with birds. The claypits were sealed in 2014 making iteasier to maintain water levels. Hence it is gradually regaining some of its former importance.Further landscaping and facilities are planned. Now a matter of local pride, the laguna is signpostedoff the N IV in the centre of El Cuervo. A local group of volunteers do much conservation andeducational work here. Visiting the site is one small way in which birders can support their work.Those with reasonable Spanish (or using Google translate!) will learn a good deal more from lookingat a webpage on this project http://www.lagunadelostollos.com/blog/ )

A good track runs along parallel to the motorway and next to an attractive 'Area Recreativa'. Thelaguna can be viewed, albeit distantly, from here, but a new path along the southern edge of thelaguna leads to a recently constructed boardwalk which takes you to a hide (a) giving excellentviews. White-headed Duck and Purple Gallinule are now regularly present. Dabchick, Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard, Pochard,Gadwall, Flamingo, Spoonbill & BlackwingedStilt, Whiskered Tern, etc. are also found here. Coot are increasingly numerous and Crested Cootmay yet return. The tamarisk necklace provides habitat for Olivaceous Warblers although they arehard to see. Continuing along the track past the Area Recreativa after c1.5km from the CA 5100 take the road onthe left which allows further panoramic views of the laguna. As this dips down it takes you to a moreopen area near a small ford (b) can be good for Black-winged Stilt and passage waders (Dunlin,Curlew Sandpiper, etc).

Much of the site has nowbeen fenced which shouldreduce disturbance althoughit will also limit views.Beyond the ford a track (c)on the left takes you thelaguna's northern shore –look for waders here (esp.Avocet). Reeds, mainlyalong the western edge holdPurple Heron and LittleBittern, but are ratherdistant and difficult to view.Further on there's now asmaller pool on the left (d)beyond some allotments.As time goes on this areashould be developed andmay be good for birds in the

near future. Back on the CA 5100 go over the E5 and immediately turn left onto a dirt track (e).

Scan the fields to the east for Black-winged Kite. An extremely low and narrow tunnel under the E5 here has nesting Redrumped Swallow.

The road that passes this site (CA 5100) continues to Gilalbin and then on to Espera making it agood stopping point if heading towards that site from the Lebrija area. (NB – There seems to be alittle confusion over the name of this laguna as it also appears to be referred to as Laguna deTollon).

Access – in the centre of El Cuervo turn into Calle de Fernando Cámara Gálvez and continue southfor c1.5km (following signs for the laguna) until the lake comes in view to the left. Turn left along agood track running parallel to the motorway. After c1.5 km turn onto a road heading back into ElCuervo (and marking the Cadiz/Seville border) to view the northern edge of this lake.

NW 6 - ** Lagunas de Espera

Why visit? – Crested Coot & White-headed Duck; winter larks & raptors

é - Laguna Hondilla viewing possible from track (but overgrown); path to Laguna Salidais good but viewing poor, but the path to Laguna Dulce is poor & rough going.

This is lovely little site is a pleasant diversion on a trip to Arcos (well worth a detour in itself).Lagunas de Espera (the generic name for a collection of several small lakes) is a good site forWhite-headed Duck, Crested Coot , Purple Gallinule, Flamingo, etc. Note that in the lagunasmay suffer from drought (as they did 2006 - 2008) when the first two lagunas may be virtually dry ormuch reduced in size. The first laguna – Hondilla - is now pretty much choked with willow scrub.However, following the wet winter of 2008/09, the two second lagunas were in excellent conditionThe track (a) to the reserve from Espera is degraded in places, but is fine if negotiated with care(although in May 2011 Laguna Hondilla flooded the track making further progress by car doubtful).As with any open area in this part of Spain the route can be excellent for birds of prey (which inwinter may include Bonelli's Eagle and the odd wandering Spanish Imperial Eagle) and larks (inc.Calandra). A small white building on the left (b) marks the location of Laguna Hondilla – you canview this laguna from here, but it is now very overgrown (although it has previously held CrestedCoot, Black-necked Grebe etc). It is also viewable from (c). Laguna Salida often hold goodnumbers of birds, but viewing from the white ‘hide’ (d - about 10 minutes walk from the track) is poor.

Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard and Purple Gallinule are usually present here.White-headed Ducks, depending on water levels, are usually present on all three lakes.

Laguna Dulce, another 10 minutes walk along the track, is the best of the three for Crested Coot(also sometimes seen at Hondilla). There is a raised viewpoint to the right of the track, but due to alack of maintenance is often overgrown and hard to find. Look for the Crested Coots to the left andthe back of the lagoon. Th, but fewer present in 2014. Look out for Ferruginous and Marbled Duckwhich sometimes appear on passage. Flamingos are often present and Ospreys regular migrants.Black-winged Kite is also to be found in this area. Remember to check sparrow flocks for SpanishSparrow. The castle in Espera also offers stupendous views over the countryside and, accordingly,is should be a good site for visible migration.

Access: The Lagunas de Espera reserve are well signposted off the minor road from Espera to Las Cabezasde San Juan (Espera itself is due north of Arcos). The track skirts the steep hill on which the castle stands andthen strikes right across the campo for several km with the small white building on the left, overlooking Hondilla,marks the start of the reserve. Park just beyond Hondilla, by a gated track running off to the left which you canfollow on foot. This skirts the southern edge of the largest lake, Laguna Salada de Zorilla. Continue along thetrack and over the rise to Laguna Dulce (c10 mins. walk). Continue along the track (as you come from Espera)to exit on a minor road (CA 4102) and Lagunas de Cigarrera. (You can also come via Gibalbin or the NIV)

NOTE - Continue along the track from Espera to Lagunas de Cigarrera & Galiana - (see next siteNW7) which are only a few km from this site and a convenient minor detour.

NW7 - ** Lagunas de Lebrija (inc. Laguna de Cigarrera, Seville)

Why visit? – White-headed Duck, Crested Coot, Purple Gallinule,OlivaceousWarbler, Spanish Sparrow, etc.; check area for Black-winged Kite.

é - all main lagunas viewable from road/track – better than Espera for access

Although these lagunas are in Seville province, since they are only a few km along what is essentiallya continuation of the track to Lagunas de Espera, it makes sense to deal with them here. Indeed asthe track to these lagunas is shorter and in better condition, it’s often best to check here first if youwant to avoid a longer bumpy drive along the ‘Espera track’.

These lagunas - Lagunas de Lebrija-Las Cabezas complex - consists of six lagunas (Pilón, Taraje,Cigarrera, Peña, Galiana and Charroao). Laguna de Taraje (a) is the only laguna of the complex notto dry out in drought years, but is strictly private and without public access (NB - another laguna withthe same name is to be found in the Lagunas de Puerto Real complex).

All of the remaining lagunasmay virtually disappear indrought years; the map showsboth their ‘normal’ size (darkblue line) and when floodedafter a wet spring/winter.Laguna del Charroao – nearthe junction with the N IV - nowappears to have been reducedto a damp hollow – is one ofmany (Lagunas de Bartholome,de Arrecife and de Santa Anaare examples) that have beenlost to excessive waterabstraction for farming.

Laguna del Pilon (b) is easilyviewed off the CA 4102 justnorth of the turning for theLagunas de Espera. Beingconveniently located next to theroad it is a useful indicator asto the state of the otherlagunas; it can be bone dry butafter wet winters (e.g. 2010 &

2011) it forms a medium sized shallow lagoon attracting Little Ringed Plover, Black-winged Stiltand sometimes White-headed Duck.

Laguna Galiana (d) – the first one you reach along the track (see below) – can be little more than asmall reedy pool, but in wet years can be worth examining. Laguna de Peña (e), in a depression tothe north of Laguna Galiana, appears to be private and is accessed by a 'private' track (although thesign announcing this fact is rusted and near illegible so you may get away with it!).

Laguna de Cigarrera (f) is more substantial and is the one worth the detour although it is ratherscreened by tamarisks. However, these tamarisk clogged margins have Olivaceous Warblers and,with luck, Spanish Sparrows. The lake also has White-headed Duck, Red-crested Pochard,Black-necked Grebe and Whiskered Tern. Both Squacco and Purple Heron are sometimespresent. Crested Coot also occurs making this a viable alternative to Lagunas de Espera. (It is alsomore accessible with a better, shorter track and without the 20 minute walk to access the best lagunaas at Espera). In wet years the flooded ‘tail’ of the laguna (g) can be good for waders. Black-wingedKite is present in the surrounding farmland. Access: The Lagunas de Lebrija-Las Cabezas are off the CA 4102 Gibalbin – Las Cabezas road. Come off theArcos by pass at the junction signposted for Gibalbin. When you reach the Gibalbin turn right and after 7km arough but drivable track crosses the road. Turning left takes you to lagunas Cigarrera, Peña & Galiana (c1.5km) and right to Lagunas de Espera (c3km along a somewhat rougher track). Laguna de Pilon is the c1.5 kmfurther along the CA 4102. If you continue along this road there’s an excellent venta at the junction with the NIV.

NW8 - ** Laguna de Medina

Why visit? – Crested Coot & White-headed Duck, Penduline Tit, herons, warblers

é - steps make viewpoint (b) inaccessible; viewpoint (a), boardwalk and hide all wheelchairfriendly

A classic site, but one that have suffered a decline in recent years due to the presence of carp whichhave upset the ecological balance. If these are removed (which has been done following previousproblems) then the site deserves ***. Details of Laguna de las Canteras added for the adventurous.

The largest, and most easily accessible, of the lakes in this region Laguna de Medina is, confusingly,much nearer Jerez than Medina Sidonia. The laguna is a little south of Jerez and is now very wellsignposted off the A381. The great advantage of this site is that, unlike other lagunas, it rarely driesout, but this is also its Achilles heel as, by design or accident, it is periodically colonised by carp (esp.after flooding). Once established, these fish are expensive and difficult to get rid of precisely becausethe lake doesn't dry out. The fish disturb the ecological equilibrium causing a sharp decline in aquaticbirdlife (esp. both Coots and White-headed Duck). Unfortunately, this is currently the case (2015)and the laguna is no longer a reliable site for Crested Coot and White-headed Ducks are low in

numbers. There’s a good viewpoint from the small hilltop (a) behind the white building, but you willneed a ‘scope to get decent views of the waterbirds below. The path continues off to the left throughlow scrub and then, via steps, to a second viewpoint (b). This is also rather distant from the lake, butdoes give a good view of the lake. Note that this route is sometimes used by noisy school groups.This viewpoint gives somewhat closer view of the lake, but a ‘scope will still be needed. Carefullyexamine the birds to your right from the first viewpoint (a) as it has the reputation for being good forCrested Coot although it takes good luck, experience and a good 'scope to find them from here (butsee note above).

A path snakes along the southern border of the lake and two raised wooden walkways here haveimproved visibility and largely resolved the problem of the path being flooded in wet weather. (Notethat this route is frequently used by mountain bikers so be careful not the block the path). Look outfor Olivaceous Warblers in the tamarisks beside the first boardwalk (c). At the end of the secondboardwalk (d) the reeds have often concealed Crested Coot in the past. Roughly c1 km from thecar park, a path snakes its way off this track to a hide (f). The hide (originally ‘glazed’ by tintedwindows!) is now much improved although approach with care as the over large windows mean birdscan clearly see its occupants and often flee unless you’re careful. The trees that screened the viewto the right have been removed giving a much improved view towards the far end of the lake.Limited views can also be gained further along the main track here. Despite the notice where thetrack loops round that it’s the end of the path (sendero), it can now be followed across a woodencauseway (g) which allows views across to some reeds and scrub (Savi’s Warbler is possible here).This is also a good area to hear Stone Curlew calling in spring (and with luck you may see them ifthey fly). The path (h) continues beyond the minor road ultimately to link with the Lagunas de PuertoReal (and beyond) – a popular cycling route. This area can also be accessed via a minor road ( i -see below). There are plans to develop a path round the whole lake, but I have been told conflictingstories by different sources – it’s either near completion and awaiting the agreement of a singlelandowner or there’s no chance of it ever happening! (NB – the ‘path’ shown in Gosney is actuallythe boundary of the reserve).

Although particularly well known as a site for Crested Coot, this species can be hard to locate evenin good years amongst the more numerous Common Coot (several thousand of which used towinter). They can be elusive and hug cover and without a 'scope you will be lucky to find one. Anestimate in 2010 suggested that there were 20-25 individual Crested Coots present at this site, butsince 2012 they have been extremely difficult to find and may not be present at all at times).Common Coots have also declined. The presence of fish also seems to have reduced the numberof wildfowl (inc. White-headed) and Black-necked Grebe . As the laguna rarely dries out only activemanagement is likely to resolve this problem (e.g. pumping the laguna dry), but Spain's on goingeconomic crisis, makes this unlikely.

As noted above, the number of White-headed Ducks here has fluctuated in recent years. Largestnumbers are often present in autumn/winter (e.g. 400+ in Sept 2010), but far fewer could have beenpresent in recent years. Marbled Duck are regular in small numbers on passage and FerruginousDuck are occasional (e.g. 6 in Sept.2010). In normal years waterfowl can be present in good numbers (inc. Red-crested Pochard) ascan herons (inc. Night Heron, Purple Heron, Little Bittern and, occasionally Great White Egret),Purple Gallinule, grebes (esp Black-necked) gulls and marsh terns (esp. Whiskered). Flamingoare regular and a variety of waders appear especially when water levels are low. Pratincole oftenhawk over the area (esp. mornings and evenings during migration periods) in good numbers. Largenumbers of hirundines (inc. Red-rumped Swallows & Crag Martins) and swifts (Common, Pallidand, less often, Alpine) can also be seen here. Passerines may include the ubiquitous Stonechat,Corn Bunting and Crested Lark. Reedbeds hold Reed and Great Reed and Penduline Tit (thelatter more numerous in winter). (Note: Contra to some reports Moustached Warbler is not foundhere although Sedge Warbler is a common passage migrant…….). The declining Rufous Bushchatmay still be present, but most recent records seem to be of migrants. Melodious Warbler is presentas, later in the season, are much smaller numbers of Olivaceous Warbler (both frequent thetamarisks so knowing their songs helps). Surrounding farmlands have Stone Curlew and all themore familiar Spanish raptors may be seen in the area (including the increasing Black-winged Kite).For this species (and other raptors) try taking the first turning to the south off the service road. Thisroad takes you to an open area (g) south of the main lagoon (which can also be reached by theboardwalk as noted above).

Check all buteos in this area carefully as Long-legged has been seen in the general area in therecent past.

Finally there are two small lagunas 3-4 km south-east of Laguna de Medina – Laguna de LasCanteras (3.75 ha) and Laguna de Tejón (6 ha). Both are prone to drying out, but when wet arehave White-headed Duck (plus Red-crested Pochard & Black-necked Grebe) .Other sites for thisand other species are much more accessible, but you can reach Laguna de Las Canteras on footonly along an official sendero or footpath (see below). Laguna de Tejón is to the south a further 1.5km down the track to your left as you approach the first lagoon, but the official footpath seems toend at Las Canteras. Be careful here as the one time I visited a large herd of frisky long-hornedcattle were being herded along the track. When wet this is a delightful, if little known,site.

Access: The Laguna de Medina is just east of the A381 autovia about 5km south of the junction with theE5/A4. It is well signposted, off this main road near a large concrete works. The path continues beyond theturning to the hide for a few hundred metres offering occasional glimpses at the ‘back’ of the laguna – often thebest area for herons, ducks etc. Although it “ends” in a small loop you can continue along the cycle track andboard walk for with views over a reedy stream and nearby farmland.

For Laguna de las Canteras & Laguna del Tejon – take the southern service road c2.6 km from theroundabout off Exit 4 (or 1.4 km from the underpass) to a gated track on the right. This is the start of a 2.7 kmsendero (footpath) to to Laguna de las Canteras (seehttp://issuu.com/cadizturismo/docs/300senderoscadiz). It might be possible to negotiate access by car atthe finca here if your Spanish is good enough.

NW9 – * Medina Sidonia – Paterna de Rivera area Why visit? – Raptors & outside chance of

Little Bustard é- viewing from car

This area of open farmland north-east of the A 381, along the A 389 towards Paterna de Rivera andcontinuing along the CA 620 back towards Alcala de los Gazules can be excellent for raptors (I’vehad Merlin here in winter) and all the usual ‘farmland species’. Black Kite can be numerous alongthe A381 here during passage. Little Bustards apparently still occur here (despite the steadyencroachment of wind farms). Some of the impressive crags along the road back to Alcala hold smallcolonies of Lesser Kestrels – a rare opportunity to see them in what must be their natural habitat. Itcan also be worth getting off the A381 and exploring the service road here. Paterna is also one of thecentres for raising fighting bulls so any diversion across fields here would be very unwise to say theleast! However, most birds can be seen from the road – look out for Montagu’s Harrier, Calandraand Crested Larks plus, in winter Skylarks, Meadow Pipits and, potentially, Merlin.

Access: Take the A389 off the A381 towards Paterna de Rivera (Note: this is the second and most southerlyexit for Paterna off the A381). For the Alcala road turn right in Paterna and then shortly thereafter left(signposted).

NW10 - ** Lagunas de Puerto Real - Lagunas de Taraje, San Antonio & Comisario .

Why visit? – Spanish Sparrow, White-headed Duck, wildfowl (Marbled Teal?)

é- viewing from car along track; paths can be muddy & impassable

The road from the A381 towards Puerto Real (A 408) is excellent for raptors in the summer beingparticularly good for Black Kite (probably connected to the proximity of a large rubbish tip!),Montagu's Harrier, Short-toed & Booted Eagle (a few of the latter remain in winter). In winter andpassage periods, Marsh Harriers and Osprey occur. In addition Black-winged Kite has recentlycolonised the area. The first lake, Laguna Comasario (a), is on your right as you come west fromthe A381 (but easily missed as it's well screened by trees). This lake often dries out, but may holdMarbled Teal. (Note: - despite what it says elsewhere, the access points to this lake are closed offby barbed wire which is backed by and prohibitive notices. You can see over a small part of the lakefrom the entrance track, but it would be irritatingly easy to set up a view point offering superb views afew metres beyond the fence!).

Stop opposite the Venta Rosario (b) for a distant view of the reed bound Laguna de San Antonio(c). In winter it can attract a good roost of Marsh Harrier and other raptors (sometimes inc. BootedEagle). Red, Black and Black-winged Kite can also be seen here. This lake is said to beaccessible from the footpath south of Laguna de Taraje, but no evidence of the connecting pathcurrently exists.

Laguna de Taraje (g) is a superb little gem hidden away from view down a reasonably good track.It's worth pausing at the start of the track in the pines (d) as Red-necked Nightjar may be seenhere. The track offers raptor friendly views over the countryside (e). Similarly, the views obtainable onthe southern side of the main road are also worth more than a few minutes scrutiny (unless the new‘wind farm’ has disturbed birds here). As you come along the track check the fences round the smallcortijof (f) for Spanish Sparrow – a small flock often feeds here. The laguna holds an excellentvariety of wintering ducks (Wigeon, Teal, Gadwall, Red-crested Pochard, Shoveler, etc.), but thekey species here are White-headed Duck, Purple Gallinule, Marbled Teal and, possibly, CrestedCoot (both of which elude me here). Note that a 'scope will be needed to sort through all thewaterfowl with confidence from the track as they can be distant and that the light is often better in themornings .In wet years check the flooded area (h) for Little Ringed Plover. In the late summer andautumn the site can attract up large numbers (thousands) of White Stork, many of which feed on thenearby Miramundo rubbish tip. Autumn/winter visits are also a good time to look out for StoneCurlews (look where the footpath heads south). The laguna often attracts passing Ospreys(although these are more regular during passage). The footpath (i) is often somewhat ‘squelchy’, butthe bank here can give more views across the laguna. There is a small white hide here, but the pathto it now seems impossible to find. Similarly the footpath to Laguna san Antonio now longer seems toexist. If you missed Spanish Sparrow at (f) continue for c1km to the finca (j) which also oftenattracts a small flock.

Access: All of these lagunas (Lagunas de Puerto Real) lie north of the minor road (A408/CA3200) betweenPaterna de Rivera and Puerto Real 4 to 7 km west of the junction with the A381. Laguna Comasario andLaguna de San Antonio can now, it seems, only be viewed distantly from the road. Laguna de Taraje is reachedvia a track on the right c9km from the A381 (see map). On the southern side of the lake a track (not drivable),runs south along the side of the lake, allowing good views and eventually runs back to the pines on the mainroad. (It is off this track, to the left, that there's reputed to be a path to Laguna San Antonio).

NW11 - ** Lagunas del Puerto Santa Maria

Why visit? – White-headed Duck & Crested Coot

é - Laguna Juncosa viewable from track, but track/paths beyond can be muddy & impassable

Although well publicised, these lagunas are rather inconveniently tucked away between Jerez andPuerto de Santa Maria and the largest laguna – reputed to be the best - is not, unlike other sites,easy to view. Hence it is not, perhaps, explored as often as they should be by visiting birders(including myself). Although most references only mention three lagunas (Lagunas Juncosa, Saladaand Chica), there are several more lagunas in this complex (and were probably more still before theywere drained).

Note - The usual and most convenient route to this site is along a road (recently metalled) following asmall canal, but recently this has sprouted ‘No Entry’ signs (see map) denying access – somethinglocal motorists seem to ignore. If you want to ‘play safe’ access can be gained by turning left at theroundabout c1km further south and heading through the area of housing and then across this roadand the canal to the lagunas.

This site holds Purple Gallinule, White-headed Duck, Crested Coot and Marbled Ducks(although the latter two can be hard to find). The skies can be full of Collared Pratincole and, if thelagunas have a lot of visible mud, other waders (Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed Plover,Greenshank, etc). Marsh terns also occur. Check the larks here for Calandra and Short-toed. Allthe expected raptors may be seen in the area including, during passage and in winter, Osprey.(Moustached Warbler is sometimes said to occur here, but the recent Spanish atlas and othersources suggests this is not the case).

The first laguna you reach Laguna Juncosa (a) - is shallow and often overgrown with reeds. Although sometimes regarded as the least interesting of these lagunas, even when not at its best it often holds Glossy Ibis, Purple Gallinue, Green Sandpipers, etc. so is well worth examining. When conditionsare good it (i.e. after a wet winter) can be alive with birds – in 2013 it hosted Ferruginous Duck, a couple of Crested Coot and more recently has had Little Crake. A public track runs along the

eastern side of the laguna, but the one on the south side is private. Unfortunately, this often has the best views of the laguna. It may, though, be possible to walk along this track. Check the tamarisks from late April onwards for Olivaceous Warbler.

The sunken track down the next two lagunas is badly rutted and, if the water levels are high accessto laguna Chica can be denied by thick 'gloopy' mud. Laguna Salada (b), is said by some to be thebest for the target species, is difficult to view and apparently access can be denied by the warden.This laguna can be viewed from the surrounding fields, but views are often obscured and distant –all the expected ducks can be seen although getting good views of margin hugging birds (coots!) isproblematical. Distant, albeit more open and panoramic views can be obtained from further alongthe 'canal' road (but see note on access). Laguna Chica (c) presumably holds similar birds toLaguna Salada and viewing is marginally better. However, due to flooding. I've only managed toget a good look a couple of times – seeing little each time.

There are two other lagunas in the area; Laguna del Hato Carne (d) and Laguna de San Bartolome(e). Laguna del Hato Carne (sometimes called Las Marismas de Pozo Lozano) is very shallow and ismore often dry than wet. When in good condition (wet!) it attracts numerous hawking CollaredPratincoles, Flamingos etc. (although even from the laguna's edge birds can be distant.Reaching this laguna is problematical; a rather bumpy tracks (f) behind Parque Acuatico is soon toorutted to drive (although it's only c500-600m further to the laguna), but a second track (g) getsmuch closer and is in better condition. Although marked as a 'camino particular' (private road), thesign is old and rusted: a local contact tells me that, in fact, access is allowed (and the route iscertainly well used by cyclists and delivery vans). If the depression is wet then the poorly markedpath from Laguna Chica is usually badly flooded! Although you probably won't see birds availableelsewhere, when wet it's certainly a place worth exploring if you have a sense of adventure.Laguna de San Bartolome now scarcely exists (although it struggles to reappear after heavy rains)and is hard to find in the maze of tracks that run through the small plots and houses. Even in a wetyear only those with an insatiable desire to seek out obscure lagunas will want to bother (althoughthe fields here may have a variety of Yellow Wagtails)

Access: The Lagunas del Puerto Santa Maria are just north of the town of that name near the AquasherryPark. Approach on the A2002 from El Portal road or CA 31 from Jerez. At the roundabout marking thejunction of these roads head west along a minor road past Aquasherry Park (Parque Acuatico) signposted"area de recreativa”. After c1km the road turns sharp left (by a casino) and, shortly thereafter, aconcrete/tarmac 'track’ turns off on the right. This was the usual route to the site, but is now guarded by 'NoEntry' signs – ignored by locals! Should you risk it, follow this road beside the irrigation canal for c2km untilLaguna Juncosa appears on your right. Turn right onto a narrow bridge over the canal to reach the lagunas.Alternatively follow continue to a roundabout , go right and follow a metalled road through an area of smallplots and houses hto reach the bridge (see map above). Park just beyond Laguna Juncosa to follow the dirttrack down towards Laguna Salada on foot. For the other lagunas see text.

NW12 - * Lagunas de Chiclana

Why visit? – Flamingo, White-headed Duck, waders, raptors on passage(Crested Coot may be possible); exploring ‘new ground’.

é - path to lagunas bumpy and poor – viewing from track very limited

Two lakes, Laguna de Jeli (f) and Laguna de Montello (g), form the "Lagunas de Chiclana" andhave similar species to other lakes in the area. They are much less frequently visited than othersites as most sources suggest that they are only accessible by footpath (a) involving a walk ofbetween 5 and 10 km depending on whether you visit one or both) and the fact that they may dryout in summer. However, a viable driving route exists which cuts walking down to a few minutes(see Map 19 & ‘Access’). Due to the proximity these lagunas (esp Jeli) to the nearby Bahai deCadiz, they attract birds from (esp. wintering wildfowl) that huge site.

Laguna de Jeli is the (f) much larger of the two and easier to view; Laguna de Montello (g) ishidden in a fold in the land and visible only at a distance. Take the road (b) through the outskirts ofChiclana, over the motorway, past an old arch and onto a good gravel track (c) (see ‘Access’below). This track gives good views over open field so can be good for larks and harriers. Wherethe track divides, go right by a cactus hedge (d); check here for Rufous Bushchat as one was

seen here in August 2011. At the end of the ‘hedge’ turn right down a track (e) towards Laguna deJeli (f), parking after a short distance

This track soon turns into footpath that takes you through a gate to th laguna beyond. Good views of the lake can be had to your right – themuddy margins may attract good numbers of waders and it is often a good roosting site for WhiteStork. The species present may also include Black-necked Grebe, Purple Gallinule, Flamingo,White-headed and Marbled Duck (and possibly other species including Crested Coot). Thesurrounding farmland attracts Montagu’s Harrier and Long-legged Buzzard has occurred.

Laguna de Montello is on the right off the original track a little beyond the turning to Laguna de Jeli.This small lake suddenly comes into view on the left after 10 minutes walking (although the track isrough but drivable … unless a tractor comes along!) It is much smaller and has reedy margins whichshelter Purple Gallinule, but a scope is needed and views are distant.

The nearby tip may attract Eagle Owl – a possibility I have yet to investigate.

Access: Take the A390 towards Chiclana and c300m beyond the junction with the E5 turn first right at the roundabout. Gopast the football pitch and after c300m take first right at the top of the rise into Av. De los Campesinos. Continue across abridge over the E5 and past a ruined gateway on your right. After another c3.5 km take a right hand fork (past a cacti hedgeon your left). As the distant Laguna de Jeli comes into view (partly hidden to you right) park where a rougher track joins atan acute angle. The laguna a pleasant 10 minute walk from here. Laguna de Montellano is further north and off to the right(see map).

If you want to walk from the A390 (and in cool weather this could be a pleasant option for Laguna de Jeli) stop c4 km afterthe second turning off for El Berrueco where there’s a prominent sign for the ‘Club Aero Modelismo’ on your left. The‘sendero’ opposite should take you to the laguna.

Cadiz & Cadiz Bay (Bahía de Cádiz) Why visit? – Flamingo, gulls, terns waders, raptors on passage (Crested Coot may be

possible); exploring ‘new ground’.

é - see site accounts.

This huge (10,500 hectares) complex of salinas, creeks and mudflats represents a rare habitat inSpain and is consequently greatly celebrated by Spanish birdwatchers. It attracts many of the birdsassociated with estuaries further north so is, perhaps, less attractive to birdwatchers from the UK,Naturally, though, but it also attracts more southern species like Black-winged Stilt, Flamingo,Audouin’s and Slender-billed Gull etc. In winter totals of waterfowl, waders, gulls, terns etc. mayreach 140,000 birds. There is a useful little book on the area’s birds ("Guia de Aves acuaticas ymarimas del Parque Natural Bahia de Cadiz”) but it is available only in Spanish. There's also anambitious restoration programme in hand run by 'Salarte' to preserve and restore salinas for wildlife.This involves both encouraging the small colony of Spoonbill found at La Covacha, providing nestsites for the returning Osprey. And much else La Covacha is not easily accessible but a visit mightbe possible by contacting 'Salarte' (see http://www.salarte.org/ ).

However, note that, unless you want the ‘winter birding experience’ in sunshine & shirtsleeves theBay, although rightly celebrated, is not the bestoption on a brief visit (unless you merely wantto add waders/terns/gulls to your tally). Othersites, notably Sanlucar-Bonanza, offer many ofthe same birds (albeit in smaller numbers),some specialities less easy to find here (if at all)and are more conveniently placed to exploreother sites. The size of this area can bedaunting! Arguably, the best single stop are thefootpaths in the central (San Fernando) area. Winter totals fluctuate (sometimes wildly), butthe following figures give some idea thenumbers (and principal species) found in theBay in winter : Great White Egret (30-35),Black Stork (20-30), Flamingo (c5,000),Spoonbill (300+), Osprey (c30), Stonecurlew(c300), Slender-billed Gull (250+ in goodyears), Audouin’s Gull (70+ in good years),Mediterranean Gull (<450) and Caspian Tern(c120) plus more familiar species like Dunlin(<30,000), both godwits (c2-3,000 of each),Curlew (<1,000), Grey Plover (c3,000),Ringed Plover (c6,000), Redshank (,3,000)plus smaller numbers of Whimbrel,Greenshank, Curlew Sandpiper and Knot.Resident Black-winged Stilt, Avocet andKentish Plover are present in their thousands.

There is a new and impressive interpretivecentre at the base of Punta del Boqueron andanother for the Marismas de los Toruños (ElPuerto de Santa Maria). Both have leaflets onthe area’s footpaths (senderos).

There is now an excellent leaflet, available inEnglish, on the birds of the Bahía de Cádiz which gives details of the footpaths (senderos) in thearea. The Spanish version can be downloaded from http://adsise.com/? p=25&lang=es-es.

NW13 – * Cadiz town

Why visit? – Large numbers of waders, terns & shearwaters;

Monk Parakeet é - good

Particularly during onshore winds, seabirds (terns and shearwaters) can be seen from the seawallround the older part of Cadiz gives a great view over the sea. A morning site as you look due west.However, a tripod and 'scope is needed to exploit the view which may draw some curious stares! Thecity’s parks have a healthy population of Monk Parakeet. A ferry runs across to El Puerto (2€) fromwhich a selection of terns and gulls (inc. Mediterranean Gull) may be seen.

Access: Follow the signs! Note that parking in the old town and, in season, by the beach can be difficult –parking further out and catching the bus in can be easier

NW14 – ** El Puerto de Santa Maria Area - Bahía de Cádiz (North)

These marshes are smaller and even more hemmed in by roads and industry than those furthersouth. However, they still have plenty of potential. Note: ‘El Puerto de Santa Maria’ is often justsigned as ‘El Puerto’.

NW 14.1 – ** Salinas Santa Maria & Dhesa de las Yeguas (‘InnerMarshes’) Why visit? – Waders, terns gulls, Lesser Short-toed Lark, etc (plus an outside chance of

Eagle Owl); your chance to explore!

é - good views by car from tracks

A good minor road (CA 313) south off the El Portal - Laguna de Medina road skirts the driermarshes that form the outer rim of the Bay and eventually reaches the A4. It passes a largerubbish tip (a) which is good for Cattle Egret, White Stork and Black Kites, but the principalattraction is Eagle Owl which sometimes hunts around the rubbish tip here. On the right (asyou come from Jerez direction), a track heads off towards the Salinas Santa Maria (b). Insome ways this is a ‘poor man’s Bonanza Salinas’ as it has similar habitats and many of thesame species (Flamingos, Slender-billed Gulls, waders, etc), but with far fewer birds andgenerally more distant views. However, it has the advantage of being less than 15 minutesfrom Laguna de Medina. There area handful of pools to the south of thetrack which attract Pratincoles inthe summer. Both Short-toed andLesser Shorttoed Lark can beeasy to see along the track. Thesalt marsh on the right (c) has smallpools that can attract waders andthe Salinas on the left often haveSlender-billed Gull. The trackremains surprisingly good until youcross over the motorway (d) afterwhich it deteriorates rapidly.However, as the birdlife thenbecomes rather less interesting(apart from a large Yellow-leggedGull colony). Note – beware ofheavy lorries, laden with salt, thatthunder along this track spewing outa mini-dust storm as they go.

Note – the salinas here proved still attractive in March 2015, but visitors in the followingSeptember report that recent developments had made them far less attractive for birds. Theymay yet return to form, but may no longer be worth the detour.

Following the CA313 towards Puerto Real you pass a small pine woodland - the Dehesa de lasYeguas (e).Turn off at the Area Recreativa to explore the woods and a track running out intothe marshes. Red-necked Nightjar are found in the woods whilst the track continues out intothe salinas (f). There may well be Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed Lark here, but the trackis in dreadful condition. It is c10km from (a) on the map to the A4 – this route has good viewsover the salinas and makes a more interesting, if slower, route from Laguna de Medina to

Cadiz Bay than the motorway. There is also a long distance footpath that heads southeastfrom the sharp bend on the CA 313 which may be worth a quick look for scrubland birds. Access: Take the minor road (CA 3109/A3202) west from Laguna Medina past the concrete workstowards El Portal. After 5km turn left onto the CA 3113 to explore the area.

NW 14.2 - ** Coto de la Isleta & Salinas de la Tapa.

Why visit? – Waders, terns, gulls (inc. Slender-billed), an outside chance of a raretern; your chance to explore!

é - paths bumpy and poor – viewing from track very limited

The Coto de la Isleta (a) is a small area of rough ground sandwiched between the railway lineand the Salinas de Tapa just off the CA 32 and adjacent to a small industrial estate andValdelgrama station.

The salinas here has a large autumnal gull/tern roost which partly explains the very high ‘hitrate ‘ for Lesser Crested and Roseate Terns here. It is also the centre for an intensive ringingprogramme. However, this is a working salt works and thus strictly private so venturing beyond(b) and into the salinas is not possible. However, according to a new leaflet (see introductionto the area) a 5 km footpath (c – e) runs round the outer edge of these salt pans from the‘Environmental Resources Centre (CRA Tiro Pinchon), This should allow good views of thesaltpans (I’ve not tried it yet). Limited views are also possible from the track running along thespine of the Coto de la Isleta. Note that some local guides – see introductory notes – may beable to take you into the salt wortks. In addition to the terns noted above the salinas areexcellent for waders (including autumnal & winter flocks of Stone Curlew) plus Audouin’s &Slender-billed Gulls. Some maps show a cycle path connecting to (e) and the track (a/b), buton GoogleEarth this seems to require crossing an unbridged ditch! Another area I’ve not fullyexplored is the track (f) running along the northern bank of the Rio Guadalete – it might beworth a look … Note - Directions i) (below) I have used, but ii) is a bit speculative – let meknow if they’re correct!

Access: i) Take the CA32 north from Puerto real towards Puerto de Santa Maria continue straight on ata large roundabout on the CA32 (by Valdelagrana station) but go right after c600m into the industrialestate onto Camino Tiro de Pichon. Go straight on to pass beneath the railway. Turn right at a T-junctionfor 1km then take a track off to the left which runs round the edge of the salt pans. ii) From theroundabout opposite the station continue north on the CA 32 to the second roundabout (just over 1km)where you turn left onto an industrial estate. Continue north to the Rio Guadalete where I’m told you canpass under the main road and access the northern end of the footpath. This is one of the few sites youcan visit by train – alight at Valdegrana station and head north to take the road under the railway. Forleaflets on footpaths see - http://adsise.com/.

NW 14.3 – * Marismas de los Toruños & Pinar de La Algaida.

Why visit? – Waders, terns gulls, etc.; bushes can be good for passerines during migration

é - good paths but sandy beaches; ‘noddy train’ along ‘spine' of peninsula .

Arguably this site is not worth the potentially long walksinvolved, but it could be fun if you have a bike (thesecan be hired at the Visitors’ Centre) and the ‘Noddy’train/beach may provide an excuse if you have a familyin tow. Having negotiated the exit onto the Valdegranaroad you can park to explore the cycle/footpath southto the Salinas de Puerto (a) which may hold goodnumbers of waders at low tide.

Otherwise continue to the new Visitor’s Centre whereyou can also grab a coffee or a bite to eat. There aresome more old salinas here (b) and a wide track (c),legacy of a failed building project, runs down the spineof this marshy peninsular. It is very popular withwalkers and cyclists – it even has a ‘Noddy train’ in thesummer (3€ per person, min 12 people). It is alsopossible to hire cycles from the impressive InformationCentre. It is best visited on a low or rising tide.

Side paths allow access to the beach (with

Andalucia’s largest colony of Little Terns) and out to

sea. A footbridge (e) connects to a path round to (a)

and (f). There are also a couple of fairly pointless

tower hides towards (d) and just over the bridge. On a low or rising tide good views can be

had of waders and the scrub along the path may attract passage migrants. The wooded

area (f), Pinar de la Algaida (not to be confused with the site near Bonanza) is said to be

good for Chameleon and may hold migrants during passage. It is probably not worth

walking all the way to (d) unless you’re keen to explore the whole area.

From the Information Centre it is c3km to the footbridge over the San Pedro (e), c5km to (d)

and a circuit from the centre via (e) and (a) is c9km.

Access: Take the CA32 Puerto Real road turning off to Valdegrana (c300m north of the bridge over theRio San Pedro. NOTE: If arriving from the south you use a “Cambio Sentido” so you have to filter rightand then cross both lanes. Once on the Valdegrana road either park to the south of the roundabout for(a) or go straight on at the roundabout into a Avenida de Mar for c1km to the visitors’ centre (b) oppositeCalle Zahara de la Sierra). As 14.2 this site can be accessed by train (alight valderana station) althoughyou will have to walk or catch a bus to the Visitors’ Centre. For leaflets on footpaths see -http://adsise.com/.

NW15 - * San Fernando Marshes - Bahía de Cádiz (Centre) A new and impressive interpretation centre has recently opened at the base of the Punta delBoqueron. Although in Spanish the displays give a good insight into the area. An English languageversion of the leaflet on birdwatching in the area is available from here.

There are a number of access points into the Bahía de Cadiz and there are well establishedfootpaths (senderos) some of which lead to bird hides. The first three sites are accessed via SanFernando, the fourth just beyond that town towards Cadiz and a fifth via Chiclana

NW 15.1 - ** Tres Amigos Salt Pans (see map 24)

Why visit? – the best one stop site for waders, gulls (inc. Slender-billed & Audouin’s), terns.

é - viewing from car park & on generally good gravel paths

From a well signposted car park (on the right) a good footpath (c7km) runs round the TresAmigos Salt Pans (a – Map 24) enclosing some ofthe best salt pans in the area for birds. Althoughthis path is well used by joggers and cyclists it is,arguably, the single best site in the area. If youintend to visit only one area in the Bay then this isprobably the one to go for. Good views can beobtained along the road – expect a good variety ofwaders (Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, KentishPlover, godwits, etc), gulls (inc. Slender-billedand Audouin’s), Flamingo, Spoonbill, etc., but itis worth taking the footpath for better views.

Due to the coastal location, increased by theirposition on a long spit, the trees and bushes herecan be attractive to passerine migrants; they alsoprovide shade, something lacking out on thesalinas. Being better watched than most sightsrare waders are regularly found here.

Access: Take exit 7 toward San Fernando (Sur) at thefirst large roundabout (Glorieta de Gómez Pablo), takethe 1st exit onto Ctra de la Batería de la Ardilla.Follow this road through two roundabouts and thesendero is on your left after several km. This circularwalk accesses several hides. Apparently the whole areais managed specifically for migrating birds and has agood track record for unusual species. For leaflets on footpaths see - http://adsise.com/.

NW 15.2 - * Doleres Salt Pans (see map 24)

Why visit? – Alternative to 15.1 but with less shade.

é - good gravel path round area

These salt pans (b – on Map 24) have turned up a number of unusual species and are easilyaccessed off the CA-33 into Cádiz. They can also be accessed by train (alight at Bahia Surstation) so this is a good site for those depending on public transport. All of the birds noted under15.1 can be seen here. In winter look for Ospreys from the train! However, there is even lessshade than at Tres Amigos Salt Pans which is a major consideration in hot weather. The trackhere is often used by cyclists and joggers who can cause some disturbance. As elsewhere herea telescope is very useful.

Access: Go past San Fernando on the CA33 towards Cádiz. After c3 km after the last exit to SanFernando the road swings right towards Cádiz. Take the ‘flyover’ here (to Torre Garda) and then thejunction down to the Salinas on your right. The sendero runs along the road towards San Fernando.Alternatively park near the Bahia Sur station and take the footpath along the railway line. For leaflets onfootpaths see - http://adsise.com/.

NW 15. 3 - * Punta del Boqueron (see map 24)

Why visit? – Excellent Visitor’s Centre plus the option for seawatching or waders/gulls/terns.

é - access along track & some boardwalks, but sandy

This long narrow peninsular (c) allows views both over the sea (terns, gulls & shearwaters) andacross the mudflats of the Bay. For seawatching morning is better as you’re facing east, but forwading birds the light is better in the afternoon. As with Tres Amigos Salt Pans (NW15.1) thenarrow peninsular can be good for falls of passerines. Drive as far as the track allows (with saltpans and saltings on view to the left) and then walk down towards the end of the spit (c3km).Birds are perhaps more distant than at NW15.1, but Caspian Terns more frequent. If you’vetime have a look at the new centre. Staff are helpful, but not all speak fluent English. (seephotos under NW 15)Access: Follow directions as per Tres Amigos, but continue straight on as the road becomes Camino deGallineras. At a roundabout (shortly after the road swings left) take the first exit towards the point. Park atthe end and follow the path through the dunes. For leaflets on footpaths see - http://adsise.com/.

NW 15.4 – * Sendero Estero/Cano Carrascon (see map 24)

Why visit? – Waders, gulls, terns, etc.; good area for Mediterranean Gull.

é - path bumpy and poor

Another large area of saltings and Salinas (d). Various footpaths snake out onto the saltings.Arguably the least attractive area to visit as there is no shade, but waders can be tame alongthe front here and various cafes for a quick snack. Local birdwatchers tell me it’s a particularlygood site for Mediterranean Gull and wintering Osprey.

Access: Follow directions off the CA33-as per Tres Amigos (15.1), but c600m from the exit turn left at aroundabout onto the Ave. de la Constitucion de 1978 which you follow through three roundabouts untilyou reach Ave. de la Ronda de Estero where you go left. Continue north here for c800m to park oppositeCalle Puente Lavaera. The footpath heads out onto the saltings from here. For leaflets on footpaths see -http://adsise.com/.

NW 15. 5 – * Playa de la Caseria (see map 24)

Why visit? – An option if you want to leave the car behind.

é - paths bumpy and poor

Another site (e) that is accessible by train. It has Kentish Plover and many of the other speciesmentioned in this section. It’s c1km north of the San Fernando railway station so could be visitedvia public transport. It could be an interesting alternative to other sites although likely to be quitedisturbed.

Access: Exit the CA33 north (next turning west after the exit for San Fernando Station). The go right ontoCalle Ferrocarril and then north onto Calle Escritor German Caos Roldan, then first right onto Calle Allonsode Ortega and left onto Calle Magallanes which you follow to the beach (in total just under 1.5 km from theCA33). For leaflets on footpaths see http://adsise.com/.

NW16 - ** Chiclana - Bahía de Cádiz (South)

Why visit? – Waders, terns, gulls etc – a good option arriving from the south

é - a number of sites appear to have good potential as they may be viewed from the car.

This part of the Bay is more easily accessible if travelling up from Tarifa or across from Medina.Views from Sancti Petri will allow you to pick up most ‘key species’ with a ‘scope. This can be a goodspot for Caspian Tern and numbers of wintering Little Stint can be impressive (100+).

I do not know sites – 16.1, 16.3 & 16.4 - very well so feedback would be very useful. I have not yetvisited 16.2 (b – La Coquina) - at all, but it appears to be worth a visit as it seems to give access tosome good habitat.

NW 16.1 - * St Maria de Bartivas Salt Pans (see Map 25)

Why visit? –– Waders, terns, gulls etc

é - paths should be negotiable by wheelchair – access by car limited.

A drivable gravel track (a) takes you out along the northern bank of the Rio Iro and continuesonto some salt pans. There are several short walks here and a number of information panels.There's a large informationcentre/restaurant – 'the House ofSalt' – here and its open upper floorforms an excellent viewpoint. All thetypical waders of the area – Avocet,Kentish Plover, etc and gullspresent here. Osprey are frequent inwinter. A track also runs along thesouthern bank, but access may berestricted here.

Access: Take the A390 south from theE5 for Chiclana. After c1.5km take thefirst exit at a roundabout onto Av. de losDescrumbrimilentos for c1km. At aroundabout just north of the Rio Iro takethe first exit right and park after c200mnext to the waterworks. If arriving fromSancti Petritake the A2134 north alongthe side of the marshes taking last exit atlarge roundabout onto Av. del laDiputacion which you follow for c3km tothe roundabout north of the Rio Iro asnoted above. For leaflets on footpaths see http://adsise.com/.

NW 16.2 - * La Isleta & La Coquina (see Map 25)

Why visit? –– Waders, terns, gulls etc

é - viewing should be possible from a car

I have yet to visit this area, but it appears that tracks here link the village of La Coquina to thesmall island, unimaginatively named of La Isleta ( b – on Map 25) and through the nearbysalt pans. From the island you can get good views of the main channel – possible a goodspot for wintering Osprey. If the tracks are drivable this should be a good site for those withrestricted mobility.

Access: Take the Camino de la Isleta (off the Av. de Diputacion) to La Coquina. Here tracks run southon to La Isleta and surrounding salt pans.

NW 16.3 - * Carboneros salt pans (see Map 25 – length 5km)

Why visit? –– Waders, terns, gulls etc

é - paths negotiable by wheelchair with care

This sendero (c) takes you on a circular route round interesting saltpans which have several'observation screens' and information boards. It is excellent for waders, gulls, etc. As with16.1 & 16.2 this is better location for viewing across the mudflats in the morning than thePunta del Boqueron as you will not be looking into the sun.

Access: – To avoid going through the centre of Chiclana head south on the E5 and taking the southernexit (Exit 10) for Chiclana. At the roundabout take the second exit to follow the Av de los ReysCatolicos south (it runs parallel to the E5) for one kilometre. Then turn right into Ctra de las Lagunas(CA 2134). Continue along this road going straight on at two roundabouts until at the third roundabout(c5km) you turn left onto Ctra de la Barrosa The sendero is c1km after you turn onto this road opposite

Calle Santa Maria la Morgarizas. For leaflets on footpaths see http://adsise.com/.

NW 16.3 - ** Sancti Petri Village (see Map 25)

Why visit? –– Waders, terns, gulls etc

é - good viewing from promenade

Situated on a narrow peninsula old Sancti Petri is now largely derelict. As you approach it’sworth checking the old salt pans en route (d) for waders. The promenade on the narrowpeninsula (e) here offers an excellent viewpoint from which to see a good variety of waders,gulls and terns. If you want to check out the mudflats then try to visit in the morning at low tide(viewing west in the late afternoon can be difficult here. The salinas as you reach the foot ofthe peninsula can be alive with waders (Little Stint can be numerous) This site is, arguably,the best option for a quick ‘in-and-out’ to pick up missing species of wader as most speciescan be seen from the car.

Access: Follow directions as for 16.2 but when reaching the Ctra de la Barrosa drive south for c5kmand into the village.

For leaflets on footpaths see - http://adsise.com/

NW 16.4 - * Laguna de la Paja

Why visit? –– Herons, ducks, etc.; exploring a little known site.

é - access uncertain, but in theory good

If you're driving south on the E 5, or even the N 340, past Chiclana you could well miss theLaguna de la Paja since itoften looks like no more than agrassy field which isn'tsurprising as the name means'Lake of Straw'. However,when wet this shallow reedy39ha laguna can harbour birdssuch as Black-necked Grebe,Great-white Egret, Squacco &Purple Heron, Ferruguinous,White-headed and MarbledDuck, Purple Gallinule and,infrequently, even CrestedCoot. It is also home toseveral rare plants endemic to

SW Iberia (Armeria cadiz, Eryngium galioides and Frankenia boissieri) and amphibians (e.g.Southern Marbled Newt).Apart from its rather nondescript appearance, another problem here is that birds can easilydisappear into the abundant reeds. The final problem is one of access since, although there'sa well made footpath (a) that skirts the top of the northern edge of the laguna, there'snowhere convenient to park very close at hand. You can park a 100m or so along the A 9034or pull off to the south at (c) and walk back to the entrance. The gate here is padlocked, butwith the gate falling apart and no fence to either side there's no barrier to walking along thefootpath. The weedy gravel path heads across the reserve, but views across the laguna arelimited due to the dense reeds. Taking Ctra de las Lagunas along the south side of thereserve look out for a patch of concrete beneath the trees (d) where it's possible to pull offthe road, albeit with great care; this is easily missed and traffic here can be busy so you mighthave to turn round and try again! Views from here are a little better than from the path.Finally, you can continue further along the Ctra de las Lagunas and take the first right afterthe laguna into Callejon de Borreguitos where the first track on the right (Camino de losMontes Universales) leads down to two ruined yellow buildings at the back of the reserve (e).To the south of the laguna the open pine wood on light sandy soils, criss-crossed with pathsholds Red-necked Nightjar. (Note also that Laguna de Jeli NW 12 is close at hand). In wetyears Purple Gallinule can be abundant here and this is then a particularly good site forFerruginous Duck (9 in April 2013).

Access: The laguna is just south of Exit 10 with the N 340 (the old main road) to the east and Ctra delas Lagunas to the south. It's just beyond the now closed Polanco furniture store (hence the alternativename 'Laguna Polanco'). Callejon de Borreguitos which is just under 1.5 km from the roundabout off theN 340 and the Camino de los Montes Universales is a further c250 m (it may be possible to park at theend of this track).

2 – SOUTH-WEST CADIZ PROVINCE

Introduction - This area is defined by Atlantic and Mediterranean to the west/south, the Chiclana-Medina Sidonia road to the north and the A381 to the north-east. The dualled A381 neatly bisectsthe Alcornocales Natural Reserve which is, in this context, more easily dealt with in two halves. Tothe north-west there are some good areas of farmland (inc. some light woodland & olive groves)which harbour Stone Curlew, Little Bustard and Montagu’s Harrier. With the exception of theBarbate area and the Palmones estuary, wetlands are in short supply. Several sites are good forseawatching, but the area is best known for the migration of raptors (esp. the southern coast) and isthe best place to see Ruppell’s Vulture in Europe. Both Little and White-rumped Swift occur. Tothe south the mountains of the Alcornocales dominate, but species like Black Wheatear aredeclining, as is Rufous Bushchat which has one of its strongholds here.

Leaflets on this area can again be accessed from – http://adsise.com/ They cover the followingareas Parque del Estrecho Brena & Barbate (two) - Playa de los Lances.

SW 1 - * Embalse del Rio Barbate

Why visit? – Chance of Spanish Imperial Eagle Black-winged Kite: hirundines & swift numbers can be high.

é - good viewing along roads and tracks; some paths negotiable by wheelchair with care

Embalse del Rio Barbate is a large reservoir immediately south of Alcalá de los Gazules (on theedge of the Alcornocales). Access is limited, the water margins distant and Embalse de Arcos has agreater number and variety of species. Spanish Imperial Eagles (most of which are part of a re-introduction programme) are sometimes seen in the low hills nearby. If open it’s worth popping into the Vistors’ Centre (see map) as the exhibition on the Alcornocales(with English guidebook) is informative, the small ‘garden’ has many typical plants of the area andthe small shop sells useful booklets & maps. There is also a small venta here, but it’s not alwaysopen.

The embalse and its margins can be exploredvia a number of footpaths, tracks and roadsreached off the A2228 Benalup road andservice road on beside the A381. The mostobvious access point (a) is next to a large signon the A2228 a short distance from theVisitors’ Centre towards Benalup. Thepath/track reaches down to the edge of thewater and is here is signposted ‘Observatario’.This is a good watchpoint from which to seethe local Ospreys (on the distant woodedpeninsula to the right or perched on posts inthe water) part of a recent re-introductionprogramme (mixed pairs of wild/introducedbirds have bred). White Stork and CattleEgret breed in the nearby pines and the skycan be alive with Bee-eaters and swifts. (Inspring the fields here can be painted in brilliantpurple by throngs of Vipers Bugloss). Checkin the tamarisk and other bushes here forOlivaceous Warbler (plus migrants duringpassage). Still further along the road towardsBenalup there’s a second path (b) throughwoodland which eventually runs down to the

embalse. I have seen Red-necked Nightjar here and, once, a Black-winged Kite. Still furtheralong the A2228 a minor road turns off towards the reservoir’s dam (presa). A parking area (c)provides a good view of the embalse (Ruddy Shelduck has been seen here) and it’s often a goodspot for raptors (including Spanish Imperial Eagle). Crossing the dam continue to a second muchsmaller dam (d) - the open farmland here occasionally holds wintering Cranes. It also attractsMontagu’s Harrier and Black-winged Kite. Redrumped Swallows breed under the bridge here.Hirundines and swifts (including Alpine, Common, Pallid and, rarely, White-rumped) can benumerous over the embalse during passage periods. The grassy margins of the embalse may holdTawny Pipit. Continue towards the A 2226 (Benalup – Los Barrios road) stopping regularly to scanthe lightly wooded hillside (e). Look out here (and anywhere in the area) for Spanish Imperial Eagle

(most of which are part of a re-introduction programme). There are several good watch points ( c &e) along this road for raptors – Bonelli’s and Spanish Imperial Eagles have been seen here. Onreaching the A 2226 turn right for La Janda or left for the Embalse de Celemin (f). This reservoirlacks the interest of Barbate, but can be good in spring for Little Ringed Plover and other waders.Cuevas del Tajo de las Figures (along the road next to the Embalse de Celemin) is a must visitlocation for the less blinkered birder as its Neolithic cave paintings depict birds (arguably the oldestsuch representations in Europe). There’s no convenient parking place on the road, so park at the farend of the camping ground/area recreativa by the reservoir and walk through to cross the road belowthe caves (noticeboards show the route – check locally for opening times – it may be closed in hotweather due to fire risk)

A final approach route off the service road along the A381 c2km south of Palmosa services

immediately after a disused venta. This takes you to the Lomo del Judio (g). After c1km take a track

off to the left signposted

“Hacienda del Agua”. (Note - If you ignore the turning and head straight on you reach an arm of thereservoir where egrets, waders, etc. may be seen). Although somewhat degraded, this is one of thefew tracks in the area with decent foundations; it was built by the Romans and the original surfacecan be seen at several points. This track takes you along a short ridge offering distant views over thereservoir. There’s a large tree nesting colony of White Storks here and this route can also be goodfor migrants and in autumn and winter Iberian Grey Shrike may be present. Eagle Owls cansometimes be found at the far end of the walk.

On the A 381 south of Alcala it's possible to take Exit 54 (h) and pull off on a small track at the top ofthe slip road facing the reservoir. This allows panoramic, if distant, views across the embalse – acheck from here for Osprey rarely fails.

Access: Access along the CA2228 and CA212 roads as per the map is problem free. However, the water levelsin the embalse can make a big difference to the proximity and nature of the birds you see. For the Lomo delJudio access is off the service road a few km south of the La Palmosa service station. Follow signs to theHacienda de Agua and continue along the track until you reach La Capitana after which the road becomes very

poor. .For leaflets on footpaths see http://adsise.com/.

SW 2 – *** Benalup – Medina Sidonia

Why visit? – Raptors (inc. Montagu’s Harrier and a chance of Spanish Imperial Eagle), Spanish Sparrow, Stone-curlew and Little Bustard..

é - excellent birding from good tracks

Although Benalup (or Casa Viejas as it was formerly known) overlooks La Janda, the hinterland tothe north – specifically a shallow valley running parallel to the A 2225 and on towards Medina Sidonia- should not be ignored (for the Cantarranas area to the south see SW 3). As you approach Benalupfrom Alcalá de los Gazules on the CA 2228 (i.e. from the A381) there’s a bridge on a sharp bend (a).‘Benalup bridge’ crosses a small tributary of the Rio Barbate which is lined with tall eucalypts wherea handful of Spanish Sparrow can be seen with diligent searching amongst the flocks of HouseSparrows.

If heading into Benalup you go sharp right after crossing the bridge and then sharp left up a long hill(farm buildings here have nesting White Stork and Little Owl). However, where you swing left atrack (b) runs along the shallow valley; This is the “Corredor Verde Dos Bahias” and a prohibitivesign announcing that access is for 'authorised vehicles only' (see note under the map). However, it ispermissible to walk (or cycle) this route.

The first section of the track (b) overlooks flower rich meadows that may hold Little Bustard orBlack-wingedKite whilst the eucalyptus stand is another site for Spanish Sparrow and the scrubby hillside heremay haveSpanish Green Woodpecker. The whole valley is good for Quail, Stone-curlew, Montagu'sHarrier, Calandra Lark, Tawny Pipit, Hoopoe and seems to funnel migrants. The the reed chokedstream running along the valley may attract various herons (inc. Purple Heron, Squacco Heron,etc) and check any Glossy Ibis for Bald Ibis which is sometimes seen here. Muddy stretches mayattract the odd small wader (inc. Black-winged Stilt, Plittle-ringed Plover). Just under 2km fromthe Benalup road a track heads off into the nearby hills; this track can also be reached via the roadthat passes the football stadium as it exits Benalup. This track (e) is excellent for c4.5 km, but, whenit reaches an open area, it abruptly mutates into a rutted nightmare (f). Good all round views heremean that it can be a good spot for birds of prey (inc. Spanish Imperial and Bonelli's Eagle). Othertracks offer opportunities for further exploration on foot (one of these may offer closer views over therice 'paddies').

Another 2km along the valley beyond the track into the hills you reach access track (d). If arriving offthe A 2225 along the ridge above, look out for a white building topped by a small eagle - Venta laCasilla (recommended for its friendly staff and reasonably priced food). Take track (d) down to thetrack along the valley bottom. Check the verges for Hoopoe, esp. in autumn, as I've had up to 15birds here! Montagu's Harrier usually present. The hillside (g) to the west of the track for LittleBustard (2-3 males) in the morning when the light is behind you. Although present all year, LittleBustard are best found in spring (March/April/May) when the male’s ‘raspberry’ call betrays theirpresence. The “Corredor Verde Dos Bahias” here has been regraded, but soon turns into a badlyrutted track. It's worth investigating (on foot) further along the “Corredor Verde Dos Bahias”to thewest to where the stream (h) crosses the track can have Purple Heron etc during migration. (NB -Spectacled Warbler has bred near Malcocinado so check all small sylvias! If your interests extendbeyond birds, butterflies and dragonflies, look out for the curious Mole Cricket which I’ve seen here).

Back on the A 2225 head through San Jose de Malcocinado (think twice about eating in San Jose asits name means St Jose of 'Bad Cooking'!) and on into Los Badalejos. Continue on round aroundabout, but turn sharp right (immediately after the crash barrier) down a concrete road into theback of the village (if arriving from Medina it is often safer continue to the roundabout and come backon yourself). Continue along this track until you reach a junction; the hillside in front of you here (i) isa very reliable site for Little Bustard and, since you're facing east is a good place to look in theafternoon. (Note that the track running down from San Jose is often in very poor condition so we donot recommend approaching along it). This is another good area for Montagu's Harrier and alsoBlack-winged Kite. A Long-legged Buzzard has been reported here so check all 'buzzards'carefully. You can follow the track here to the NE as it is in reasonable condition; check a small ford(j) for Spanish Sparrow. Continue further along the track (on foot) as it's part of the Corredor Verdeuntil the track again becomes degraded (k) check here again for Little Bustard – also check thereedy channel for small herons. Keep scanning the skies in this area as local raptors (supplementedby those on passage) can be interesting. (If interested in exploring the old olive groves and fieldsaround Cantarranas take the tracks west And then south in San Jose).

Continue along the A 2225 for c2.5km beyond Los Badalejos (and c1 km south of the junction for themain Medina-Vejer road) to take the broad well maintained track (Caňada del Valcargo) which headsNE. It's worth checking the scrub along the Corredor Verde here, but the main target is Little

Bustard which inhabits the wide open flower rich fields (l) after c1 km (l) also check for StoneCurlew and Montagu's Harrier. This excellent track continues for another 9 km through variedhabitats until a crossroads (just beyond a large agricultural shed) where it suddenly becomes moredegraded. This track begs further exploration and is again a likely area for Spanish Imperial Eagle.(At the crossroads the track, probably undrivable, to the left apparently eventually comes out afterc8km at the Ermita de los Santos near Alcala de los Gazules).

Turning onto the A 396 towards Medina look out for two heavily restored ancient Roman bridgesalong theCorredor Verde on your right. These are worth a quick look in their own right so if you do so keep aneye out for Spanish Sparrow both in the farmlands and the tamasrisks plus Red-rumped Swallowand, when the river's low the odd passage wader (e.g. Common Sandpiper or Little-ringedPlover). The tamarisks may also hold Olivaceous Warbler.

A few km further on turn towards Medina, but at the roundabout instead of driving up to the town(worth a visit for its breeding Lesser Kestrels!) turn towards the A381, but after just over 3 km takean acute turn to the right.

Explore the rough track to your right just after the turn which takes you through rough scrub linedwith cacti 'hedges'; I've yet to see anything of note here, but I've seen Rufous Bush Chat in similarhabitat elsewhere. …. Further along the track you have excellent views across rough pasture (esp. toyour right) where Calandra Larks are often abundant (although common this species can be elusiveand this is my back-up location for finding them). I've also had Montagu's Harrier and StoneCurlew here and it may well sometimes hold Little Bustard. It was once possible to continue alongthe road to the distant ruined castle on the horizon, but this route has now been blocked by a largegate.

Access: Like all tracks those here are subject to change and degradation, but are usually in good condition.Apart from the Corredor Verde (on which motorised traffic is not permitted), all seem to be public) and I havenever had problems with access along other tracks (although I have been 'checked out' by locals several times).Those thinner ones on the map tend to be in less good condition and dubiously drivable. Access to the trackfrom Los Badalejos requires some care as it is on a sharp bend.

SW 3 - ** Cantarranas

Why visit? – A good evening site - Black-winged Kite regular and olive groves hold Red-necked Nightjar; outside chance of Little Bustard.

é - viewing along tracks, but beware of ruts/mud in wet weather

Cantarranas - this area of old olive groves and open farmland along the Benalup road near Cantarranas is my ‘standard’ stop in summer to get Red-necked Nightjar and Black-wingedKite as it is so convenient for both. Turn into the olive groves along a poor track (a) just after a

sharp bend (or alternatively continue to Cantarranas and turn right then a long a marginally better track to the same point. The woods hold Hoopoe and Red-necked Nightjar - in summer an evening stop at the cross roads (b) virtually guarantees a good sighting, although both can also be seen flying over the A2228 here. According to locals Eagle Owl also occurs here. This point can alsobe reached from the A 396 via good farm tracks or from SW2 [via k on Map 29].

The open fields just beyond the woods (d) have Crested Lark, Calandra Lark, Stone Curlew,Montagu's Harrier. Black-winged Kite is often easy to see at dusk hunting over the farmlands atthe top of the ridge (d) – in dozens of visits at dusk I have a 100% record of seeing it here. LittleBustard is also found here although they are difficult to locate (I have had more success with thisspecies in the area described in the previous entry). Carefully driving along the farm tracks (f) to thevicinity of the open fields near the Jerez-Medina road are the best bet. The hilly outcrop here alsohas Eagle Owl, but is private although a footpath (e) runs up to its flanks.

Cantarranas - Take the Benalup road (A 2228) towards Vejer de la Frontera after c6km you pass a grand newhouse with a tower and then a small venta (both on your left). Shortly thereafter the road swings left and youtake a gravel track on your right through the open olive groves. After 1km this takes you over a crossroads, onthrough open farmland and, eventually, to the main Vejer-Medina road. Alternatively continue into theCantarranas taking the first right, then right again and finally right at fork (this takes you to the ‘crossroads’ notedabove. Explore tracks at random! (This area can also be access off the A 396 Vejer – Medina road).

SW 4 - * Los Naveros- Conil area

Why visit? – Migrant raptors, Montagu’s Harrier, Stone-curlew, Black-winged Kiteetc; an outside chance of Little Bustard.

é - viewing along tracks, but beware of ruts/mud in wet weather

The area of open farmland to the east of the Jerez-Medina Sidonia road (A 396) is covered in SW3,but the area to the west, towards Los Naveros, is equally worth exploring. The dirt track to Conil (b),which turns off the CA 5201 about c4km from the junction with the A396, provides a superb drivethrough an attractive cross section of the farmland habitats in the area. It can equally well be drivenfrom Exit 26 on the E5/A48 near Conil towardsLos Naveros

The area around the Los Naveros has Black-winged Kite, small woodlands nearby attract Red-necked Nightjar and the extensive cacti hedges around the village may atttract Rufous Bushchat.(Although I've yet to find them here, the habitat looks promising and the species is mentioned for thisgeneral area in ''Birds from the Coast of Trafalgar” - see introduction).

Return to (b) to take the 10 km track passes through varied farmland. Montagu's Harrier, Black-winged Kite, Stone Curlew and, with a lot of luck, Little Bustard can be found here. CalandraLark also present and listen for Quail in spring. After c1 km a badly degraded dirt track heads off (c)southwards towards Los Paralejos – it's barely drivable in a 4x4 so is best tackled on foot. Themarshy area and stream here sometimes has Bluethroat on passage. Further along this track youcan gain good views over flat, open habitats, good for all 'steppe' species.

Th

e track continues through open dhesa (d) which often has Hoopoe and Woodchat Shrike. Moreopen areas, found as the track nears the Rio Salado, are worth stopping and scanning forMontagu's Harrier & other species. Nearer Conil the gravel track unexpectedly gives way to astretch of degraded tarmac (bordered on one side by a metal crash barrier!) retch of degradedtarmac. The scrubby, bushy habitat here is particularly attractive and it can be a good spot to scanfor raptors. Eventually the track, again rough gravel, drops down towards the A 48 with Conilbeyond. Although other areas may harbour more birds, this drive across a selction of attractivehabitats is a particular favourite.

Although not as attractive for birds as other sites (e.g. Playa de los Lances) and often crowded withholiday makers in summer, several tidal lagoons (e) along the beach south of Conil can be worthchecking for Kentish Plover, all the usual waders, gulls (inc. Audouin's) and terns. CollaredPratincoles hawk over the open fields which may also have Little Bustards.

North of Conil is the small harbour of Puerto de Conil and above it a lighthouse at Cabo de Roche (f).Although perhaps a little too high, this can be good for seawatching in good to strong NW, W, SWand S onshore winds with Cory's & Balearic Shearwaters. Audouin's Gull, terns (Lesser Crestedhas been recorded), etc. Storm Petrels sometimes reach double figures and Wilson's has beenrecorded. Viewing is best in the morning. (see http://redavesmarinas.blogspot.co.uk/ for samplecounts). The cliff top bushes here can hold migrants. There's also a sendero along the nearby creek(evidently home to some rare fish)

(NB – be aware that the bulls here are ‘toros bravos’ – fighting bulls – and must be treated withrespect and caution. Also be aware that heavy lorries from a nearby “quarry” come along this track atexcessive speed).

Access: Take the CA 5201 off the Vejer-Medina Sidonia road (A 396) towards Los Naveros (thesouthernmost one of two such roads). After c 4 km turn off along a good dirt track. This eventuallyleads to the motorway near Conil. If arriving via the E5/A48 take the southern most exit for Conil(N340), but head inland along this track.(see Map 31)

SW 5 - ** Cape Trafalgar & La Brena Pines nr. Vejer

Why visit? – Seawatching & “visible migration”

é - good access around the cape itself, but now no parking close at hand. seawatching ispossible from the car in Conil.

See Map 32

As the light favours seawatching in the morning , this description assumes an approach fromTrafalgar, but should be intelligible if approaching from Barbate.

Trafalgar - A very attractive site with a good chance of seabirds and, in season, excellent visiblemigration. In autumn/winter the tidal pools near the lighthouse are a very good site for Audouin'sGull. Visible migration in the autumn can be impressive with thousands of birds, some bouncingalong at eye level, pass south. These include huge numbers of finches (Goldfinch, Chaffinch,Serin, etc), hirundines (Red-rumped Swallow, Crag Martin, etc), larks (inc Short-toed) and so on.(NB - unfortunately the prime conditions for passerine migration also attract bird trappers to thenearby wastelands).

Particularly when winds are onshore during spring and autumn, Gannets, Cory's & BalearicShearwater and a variety of terns are usually easy to see. Great Skua is often present onpassage/winter. With stronger onshore winds more unusual seabirds may be possible – the lack ofsystematic seawatching here means little information is available. Note that mornings are better sothat you can avoid looking into the setting sun. In spring birds such as Black Stork, Lesser Kestrel,Black Kite, etc. can be a surprise addition to a seawatch.

Note that it is now not possible to park near the cape so you'll have to use the car park at thejunction and walk c1 km to the sea.

To the north you can also seawatch from your car along the beach at Conil (easy parking in offseason) although the elevation is rather too low. You can also grab a quick coffee in the manybeachside ventas. Further north again the cliffs north of Puerto de Conil offer terrific views and thecliff top can be good for migrants.

La Brena Pines - Birdlife in these woods can be a little sparse (though good for Serin, Short-toedTreecreeper, etc) and, in season, migrants. In early spring the woods may have huge numbers oforchids (although a limited number of species are present including Woodcock, Bee, Sombre Beeand Mirror Orchid). Several well marked senderos (footpaths) and tracks snake inland through thewoods and one footpath takes you to the cliffs (sadly no longer home to cliff nesting egrets). Thisdescription assumes an approach from Barbate, but should remain fairly intelligible if approachingfrom the opposite direction.

The coastal road from Barbate to Canos de Mecca passes through the pinewoods of La Brena. Thefirst stop in the woods (i) – on the left just under 2 km from Canos de Meca - can be particularly goodfor orchids in February. The next stop is the narrow tarmac road on the left c1 km further on towardsBarbate is the tarmac road to

Palomar de la Brena (j). There are many places to stop and the more open areas often haveHoopoe – if you brave a rough track you can make this a circular drive via San Ambrosio. There aresome good vistas along this route where, during migration, many raptors can be seen. Another c1 kmfurther west there's a small car park (k) on the coastal side of the road from which a footpath leads tothe cliffs (Pallid Swift often hawk round the tower here). As the road descends towards Barbate lookout for a car park on the right (after c2.5 km) which leads through open woodland which makes apleasant walk. After another 800m you reach the coastal path below the cliffs back to Canos deMeca – check the White Broom here as it's a favoured spot for Chameleon.

Access: Trafalgar - Head for Vejer and then to Los Canos de Meca. Turn right towards thelighthouse at Cape Trafalgar (signposted) and park in the official carpark to your right (2¤) fromwhere it's c1.25 km to the cape. For leaflets on footpaths see – http://adsise.com/ . Continuetowards Barbate for La Brena. Barbate – once again head for Vejer, but take the N340/E5 turningoff southwards on the A314. Look out for the turning to (a) just after 2 km from the turning.

SW 6 - ** Barbate Estuary

Why visit? – Waders, gulls, terns etc

é - some good tracks – paths not adequate

The Barbate area is home to the re-introduced Bald Ibis (see also SW 16). The pastures along the

A 2231 coastal road towards Zahara (f) may have them, but, bizarrely, they also like feeding on the

large golfing complex such as Montenmedio Golf Club (off the N340/E5). Unfortunately, due to a

minority of birders who have disturbed golfers here, the club ask for visits only by prior arrangement.

Three colonies have now been established and c20 pairs bred in the general area in 2014. Most of

the area is part of the Parque Natrual La Brena y Marismas del Barbate.

This estuary holds all the usual mix of waders and gulls, but apparently lacks some specialities (I’veheard mixed messages about the current status of Lesser short-toed Lark here – it has bred, but itsstatus seems a little uncertain). The river channel can be good for Caspian Tern.

As with Bahia de Cadiz, there are several footpaths ("senderos") which allow access. A new leaflet -‘mapa guia ornotologico’ - is available from tourist offices in both Spanish and English (the Spanish version can be seen (and downloaded) from http://adsise.com. It is from this that the following routes have been described – note that I’ve not yet walked them so have not been able to confirm details. Those that have report that they've had to wade across some sections. Note also that these paths are very open and exposed in hot weather. Also note that the description of the route that follows assumes an approach from Vejer via Barbate, but shouldn't be hard to re-interpret if approaching from Zahara.

i) Sendero Marisma Alta – at km 2.2 off the A 314 Vejer Barbate road – (a). This sendero is just over15 km and better tackled by cycle (available for hire in Barbate I’m told) if you want to explore thewhole route. It takes you along the Rio Barbate almost as far as the town. However, good birdingcan be had at the start of the sendero so there should be no need to walk too far. Pull off the A 314onto a short dirt track to a small sewage farm and follow the path (signposted) to a series of shallowlagoons and flooded pastures border this path for c1 km. These pools hold Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt, Purple Gallinule and often attract a variety of waders (e.g. Green & WoodSandpipers, Greenshank, Whimbrel, etc). Rarities are possible – a Lesser Yellowlegs was seenhere in autumn 2012. However, recent 'improvements' to the sewage farm here appears to havereduced the available habitat. The sendero then divides with one fork following the edge of thebasin and the other cutting off towards the river. A shorter ‘pan-handle’ route is possible.

The estuary is also accessible from the track (b) that runs through the pines just south of the petrol station as you come into Barbate. Turning left onto this track is not allowed so approach from the direction of Barbate (using the roundabout to change direction if coming from Vejer). Drive through the trees, turn right, then left and right again to continue along track and park under large eucalyptustrees. (Note – in autumn 2014 the police here warned birders that this area was prone to thefts from cars - so parking elsewhere may be safer). Follow the footpath that takes you along the main channel of the estuary – good for waders, gulls, etc.

ii) Sendero “Antingua Salina” – just over the bridge on the A 2231 – (c). Take the A 2231 towards Zahara and pull over onto a track on the right c0.5 km beyond the bridgeover the river. Walk back towards the river by taking a track through the rough ground to the south,then along river and then follow the path under the bridge towards the Salinas. Follow tracks asmarked. (NB – try to avoid walking along the road which can be dangerously fast & busy) Followthe path along river – often better than the old Salinas which can be fairly birdless - whicheventually loops back to the road off which you parked. Another 200m or so further on from here atrack off to the left runs across the old salinas. After c660m this reaches a broad channel where youshould be able to park. A rough track continues for another 500m along the channel (note leafletsshow this as a circular route, but this doesn't seem to have been completed). Alternatively, view thiswide channel from the track along the further edge of this wide channel (the track is just beforeRestauranteLas Dunas). This runs for c500m before you reach private working salinas

iii) Senderos “El Cañillo & Las Albinas” – (d) & (e) on Map 32 Take the A 2231 towards Zahara and pull over onto a dirt track at Km 3.2 (i.e 2.5 km after crossingthe bridge by an obvious noticeboard about the restoration of the marshes). The El Cañillo (d)section – after you avoid the badly rutted initial part of the track by swinging round behind nearbybuildings - is a decent track easily drivable in a saloon car (2013). The wet muddy areas here canattract large flocks of gulls (inc. Audouin’s, Slenderbilled and Mediterranean) and all the usualwaders. The Las Albinas walk starts at the end of this track (e) is on paths that head out into themarismas. This circular route runs for 10 km over the marshes back to where you started(assuming the footbridge over the channel shown on leaflets exists – check first!). Check here forStone Curlew in September – 300+ have been seen here at this time! The bushes are also goodfor migrants.

As may be expected the cover along the coast can be good for migrants.

In common with Zahara de los Atunes further down the coast, the port of Barbate (g) has stronglinks with the tuna fishing industry. There's a Natural Park information centre (open 09:00 – 15:00Jan – March & 10-14;00 & 18:00 -20:00 the rest of the year) tucked away, unsignposted, inside toold docks (to the left of the last entrance as you head towards Canos de Meca). In the nearbymarina there's also the Centro de Interpretation del Atun Rojo de Almadraba (open: 11:00 to 14:00hours ,Thursday to Sunday) which has an exhibition on the old tuna fishing industry. Check herefor trips out on old tuna fishing boats (see - www.atunalmadraba.com ) as, although aimedsquarely at tourists, these trips may result in good views of Cory’s Shearwater and provide a goodopportunity for a birder with family to get in some sneaky birding!

For (h), (i), (j), (k) & (h) on map see ,SW 5 - Cape Trafalgar & La Brena Pines

Note – some maps show a public road running from the coast east of Barbate back to the N340; infact this is a military road and not open to the public. However it can be followed for c1.5 km towhere it links with a track (signposted as an equestrian route) which heads back towards Vejer.Views of the estuary may be possible here and apparently there's a Collared Pratincole colony onthis route, but it' probably not worth the detour.

Access: Barbate is south of Vejer de la Frontera and adjacent to La Janda. The information centre just off theBenalup road has pamphlets with details of walking routes (in Spanish) around the estuary.

SW 7 - *** La Janda

Why visit? – A ‘classic’ site – raptors, waders; passage – passerines; winter Bluethroat, etc; rarities

é - good viewing along tracks

This iconic site was once the largest, if very shallow, natural lake in Andalucia and rivalled the CotoDonaña in terms of rare and scarce species. Sadly, the wetland was drained and large wind farmshave now been built south of Tahavilla and near Facinas. To the west lies the strictly provate LasLomas estate (once the playground of field sports loving Spanish royalty). However, the estate hasresisted the financial temptations of wind farms and much of the area is given over to rice paddies –an attractive habitat for wetland species. The rice fields are usually reflooded at the end of May. Itis accessed off the A 2226 east of Benalup (a) and off the N340 opposite the turning for Zahara (g)and further west towards Vejer (i). It can also be reached via the track from Facinas, but this routereally needs a 4x4.

Much of the area is strictly private and most side tracks are designated private (‘camino particular’).Towards Tahivilla and again along the road to Zahara vast wind farms now mar the skyline – adevelopment that may account for the increasing scarcity of Little Bustard in the area.Unfortunately, a project to ‘restore’ a small part of La Janda to its former glory seems permanentlystalled. However, the dualling and ‘improvement’ of the N 340/E 5 here may provide a benefitsince part of the plan may involve ‘restoring’ some wetlands along its route.

For descriptive reasons the following assumes entry via (a) –mainly because this is my usual entry

point, but many observers arrive via (g) or (i).

Take the concrete track that runs south off the A 2226 (the Benalup-Algeciras road - CA 212 onsome maps) just east of Benalup on the road for Algeciras. (Previously very badly potholed, thisroad was repaired in 2015 and is now much easier to drive) Check the fields on the left as you drivealong the track here as they sometimes hold Little Bustard. There are several points between (a)and (b) where a quick stop may be productive. About 2 km from the turning off the A 2226 you

cross a wide drainage channel which, to your right, a dirt track follows. This allows exploration ofwet river margins that can be of interest. Another 2 km or so towards (b) and an old 'oxbow'appears to your right. When muddy this can be an excellent spot to stop and scan for waders (esp.if there's little suitable habitat along the main track across la Janda); during passage periods Wood,Green,and Common Sandpipers, Greenshank, Little Stint, etc.

After c1 km rice fields appear on your right and after another 4 km you reach a bridge over a smallstream (b) where a road branches off to follow a drainage channel up towards the Embalse deCelemin (k). This ditch can be good for Purple Gallinule and it’s often worth scanning here forraptors over the wooded hills. The other side of the bridge there’s a small marshy area that often haswintering Bluethroat. Just after the bridge the track heads towards Facinas (c); once in very poorcondition this track was regraded and improved in 2011 and is now signposted (look for orangetipped finger posts). In summer check for Red-necked Nightjar here (and round the finca – see map).If you do take this track look out for Spanish Imperial Eagle and Long-legged Buzzard plus LittleBustard (Great Bustard is now extinct here). Young Bonelli’s Eagle can also be found here (andelsewhere) in autumn and winter. In summer 2012 the track was easily drivable until roughly oppositeTahavilla where several deep depressions required careful driving esp. when wet. The road is poorfor c1 km until it reaches a bridge over a channel after which it improves again. The channel herecan can be worth a closer scrutiny - Hoopoe are often found in this area and flocks of Corn Buntingcan exceed 200 birds. In winter or after a wet spring you'll probably need a 4x4 to complete thisroute. If tackling it from Facinas take the first track on the left after leaving the N340. (now markedby a large signboard).

Back at (b) an alternative (and easily drivable) route is to take the recently improved section of track

up to a low ridge (d) and then on to La Janda. The ridge can be a good place to spot passing

raptors. The track reaches a small farm where it drops down onto what was once the bed of a huge

lake.

A large sluice gate (e) marks another good place to stop – early in the mornings and again in theevening is a good time to look for Black-winged Kite (now a regular resident here and with up to40 birds in winter) particularly on the irrigation superstructures. During migration periods the wholearea can be alive with Back Kites, Montagu’s Harrier, etc. Beyond the sluice the track the trackfollows along besides a tree choked channel – now the site of a large heronry (mainly Little andCattle Egrets plus a few Glossy Ibis). Stay in the car and remember your camera to grab somegreat shots of these attractive birds. (NB – this colony, although still present, seems to havereduced in size in spring 2015)

The track then crosses a large irrigation ditch and by turning left you head along the main trackacross La Janda (f) and towards the exit opposite the A2227 to Zahara. Check the main ditch forOtters which are sometimes seen here (but don't confuse with Mongoose which also occurs) Inseason this track passes flooded rice paddies which attract large numbers of White Stork, GlossyIbis, waders etc. and the ditches conceal Purple Gallinule, egrets and herons. Check sparrowshere (as elsewhere) for Spanish Sparrow . Common Crane winter here and where the track (g)rises towards the N340 (E5) you gain an excellent view across the area – often useful forpinpointing flocks of this species. Also check the whole area, especially in winter, for Great WhiteEgret.

Tahavilla (h) on the N340 makes an excellent stop as the venta here, Venta Apolo XI, is first rate. Anarrow road beside the venta loops round and back to the main road which allows you to scan thispart of La Janda if you wish (impossible from the busy N 340). The “cemetery track” at the easternedge of Tahavilla gives good views over farmland and was once particularly good for LittleBustard. Although the wind farm here seems to have displaced them, there continue to beoccasional reports. Check for Montagu's Harrier.

By turning right as you cross the bridge you head along the track (h) for a more northerly exit ontothe N340. What species are present largely depends on the state of the rice paddies, but I thisarea holds all of the birds seen elsewhere. Check small Sylvia warblers here (and elsewhere) asSpectacled Warbler occur. On reaching the main road (i) check the ditch on the right whichseems particularly attractive in autumn for migrating Bee-eaters. In the evening check the pylonshere for Eagle Owl (esp late winter). Turn right towards Vejer you can pull off at a picnic site ( j)

which offers views across a different aspect of La Janda – I have seen both Crane and BlackStork here in winter.

Access: From Benalup take the CA212 towards Los Barrios and turn at ( j). From the N340 take the track

near the picnic site at (d) or at the turning for Zahara at (a). As noted above the tracks here can be in poor

condition and most are ‘off limits’.

SW 8 - *** Bolonia – Sierra de la Plata

Why visit? – Potentially all 5 European swifts, Rufous Bushchat , raptor migration;excellent tapas plus a splendid Roman ruins

é - good viewing along road, but paths uneven/poor; steps down to Punta Carmarinal

The Bolonia area has a good mix of birds since it is well positioned to attract migrants and has agood range of habitats including shoreline, woodland, old olive groves, scrub, poor agricultural landand rocky crags. It is also convenient for Tarifa, La Janda and Barbate which are all nearby. Not onlythat, but it is also on a migration route for raptors, is a well known site for both Little and White-rumped Swift and Rufous Bushchat. The latter has declined sharply in southern Spain and cannow be very hard to locate. Familiarising yourself with the song can help enormously.

Exploring this area on foot ismade easier by a number ofgood footpaths. I havenot attempted to indicatethem all on the map herebut the local informationcentre (near La Pena onthe Tarifa road hasexcellent leaflets andmany are shown on noticeboards. Many aredetailed on an excellentnew leaflet (see -http://adsise.com/).

The E5/N340 as youapproach the turning for ElLentiscal/Bolonia can bevery busy, but there areseveral places where youcan pull off to explore theolive scrub along the roadwhich sometimes holdsRufous Bushchat.

Coming from the south,your first opportunity toexplore the area is theroad to Paloma (a) whichis flanked by pines anddunes. Formerly militaryland it is now possible to drive to the end of the road, but parking becomes increasingly difficult. Look for migrants here and gulls on the beach. The river mouth can be worth investigating here and a footpath from the ancient necropolis offers good views across the area. The road from the A340 up to Betis continues to flaunt signs claiming it to be a military area – if you're nervous drive in from the CA 2216 where there are no such signs! The bushy scrub along the A340 are said to harbour Rufous Bushchat (although they elude me here). Try pulling off at the Hotel San Juan de la Rivera (b) - a good stop for tapas & coffee - and exploring the nearby bushes.Alternatively, drive a little further along the main road to pull off at the picnic site (P) the right just before the road to Facinas. A track up to the wind generators opposite the turning for Facinas and

the Venta de Facinas (c) certainly sometimes has Rufous Bushchat. (Note this track is very rutted so park off the main road – not inthe bus stop as this may incur a parking fine – and walk up). A further diversion nearby is the narrowroad that turns off the road to Facinas and heads into the hills. I've had Tawny Pipit here and it maybe worth further investigation.

If you opt out of looking along the A 340 or a coffee, then take the winding road up towards the top ofthe hill “Puerto de Bolonia”. Just before you get there a road on the left turns up towards Betis (d)and the impressive craggy bulk of San Bartolome (420+ m). Take care along this road as it is narrowand twisting. Storks and raptors often circle over the rocky massif here. It's worth pulling off andexploring the scrub as this is a nother site where Rufous Bushchat has been reported. Manyfootpaths snake through the woods which during passage attract passerine migrants. (One path iscalled 'Sendero de Buho Real' – Eagle Owl footpath – given the disturbance from climbers this maybe a little optimistic!).

At Puerto de Bolonia (e) – where the CA 322I6 reaches the top of the hill - there’s an ‘official’ raptorwatchpoint.In stronger easterly winds, there can be a good passage of raptors (Black Kite, Booted & Short-toed Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Griffon Vulture, etc.) and storks. Swifts (Common, Pallid & Alpine)and hirundines also hawk along this ridge. The track running north along the ridge is worth exploringfor birds such as Tawny Pipit, Blackeared Wheatear and Rufous Bushchat. One leaflet shows asendero (footpath) branches off this track which loops round back to the road which would give goodaccess to the habitat – but note that the leaflet also warns you to check locally to see if this route isopen. Two roads run SE from here – one to Betis and another to El Chaparral.

The small beach resort of El Lentiscal (Bolonia) offers a variety of fast food outlets and bars – frommany of which raptor migration or seabird passage (Cory’s and Balearic Shearwaters, Gannets,etc) can be watched in comfort (f). Footpaths also fan out along the coast and may repayinvestigation. A small stream flows into the sea here and the scrub along its banks can be worth acareful look as can the muddy foreshore (e.g. for Kentish Plover). Entry into the Roman ruins ofBaelo Claudia is free for EU passport holders and even if you have no interest in history it's a gooddiversion since the grounds have obliging Black-eared Wheatear, Sardinian Warbler andStonechat. Once again look out for Rufous Bushchat along this road, but also check any lowflying swifts with care ….. Continuing along the road up towards the sierra you pass a track on yourright which links to a footpath (see map) which probably deserves further investigation.

Most birdwatchers tend to ignore all diversions up to the well known 'swift cave', but a concrete track(g) takes you up to some footpaths allowing you to explore the Sierra de la Plata. This concretetrack continues into the sierra for over 3km (although it seems further!) and then for almost anotherkm as a gravel track. It then swings left (just before a small farmyard) as a rutted dirt track forabother 200m or so to a hide (Laja de la Zarga). This hide faces towards a vast rock wall which hasbreeding Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Bonelli's Eagle is regular here.

Another variation is the take the footpath from a lay-by (just short of the sharp bend on this road)

walk down to Punta Carmarinal (h). From the lighthouse you may pick up Audouin’s Gull, Cory’s &

Balearic Shearwater).

The lighthouse can be approached from Zahara de los Attunes through the plush residential area ofAtlanterra (the road from Bolonia does not connect with this area). Note that the route round by carto this point via Zahara and Atlanterra takes roughly the same amount of time as it does to walk backup to the Bolonia road from the lighthouse.

Continuing up the road you reach the rocky peaks of the Sierra de la Plata. Here you have not onlyhave superb views across to Africa, but a chance of all 5 species of European swift. Pull off into asmall lay-by opposite a craggy cliff face pierced by a small cave - Cueva del Moro (i). This is aclassic site for White-rumped Swift and, in recent years, Little Swift (although the latter is mucheasier in the Chipiona area). Mornings and late evenings are usually best for these rare swifts, butthe truth is that they can be very elusive and you need luck to get them on your first visit. (That said,some people have seen them easily here as well along the small stream the discharges into thebay). However, your wait can be enlivened by Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture (which nest on the

rock face above the road), Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Golden Oriole and, inseason, passing raptors (Lanner have been seen here). Further up the road the woods can beworth investigating for butterflies (e.g. Two-tailed Pasha). Note too that in easterly winds this can bea good vantage point for raptor watching (both Lanner and Long-legged Buzzard have been reportedhere).

Driving round to Zahara de los Atunes/Atlanterra takes you past an entrance to La Janda and greatswathes of wind generators. The broad valley as you approach Zahara was once a very reliable sitefor Little Bustard, but since the wind farm appeared they seem to have declined sharply. However,birds were recently seen near El Armarchal (j) so it's still worth checking Zahara de los Atunes isanother 'classic' site for White-rumped Swift – with birds sometimes seen over the river here or themiddle of Zahara. However, your best bet is to drive into Atlanterra (k). Conveniently, a new roadbypasses Zahara, but not the ugly sprawl of hotels at the start of Atlanterra. Continue along thecoast and then park in a small car park on the left (about 250m after the last large hotel complex).The swifts can be seen from here, but for better views climb up the steep road past palatial holidayhomes until you overlook a rocky crag and have panoramic views over Zahara. However they can beelusive (in May 2009 I had fantastic views here, but less than a week later friends looking in similarconditions and at the same time of day saw nothing.

Access: As noted above some of the roads have old signs warning that they are restricted military roads –this can safely be ignored when driving up to (i) as this route clearly has ‘touristy’ car parks & notices. I Thesame now appears to apply to the area around Not all footpaths appear to be open see leaflet -http://adsise.com/.

SW 9 - ** Tarifa Area

For migration watchpoints (other than Playa de los Lances & La Pena) see also SW8 & SW 10Note that many of the roads and tracks in the area are still signposted as restricted militaryroute. For most this is no longer the case, but exercise caution.

SW 9.1 - * Tarifa Town & Whale Watching Trips

Why visit? – The starting point for whale watching trips; migrants, R & R

é - good, but check with boat operators regarding access to whale watching trips

Tarifa is a pleasant town to wander round and get refreshments, but commercially, and to thedisadvantage of conservation, it is dominated by kite/wind surfers. However, given its location birdsoften stream over during migration periods - all raptors, swifts (many of which are Pallid, but there

are occasional reports of Little), all species of hirundine, Bee-eaters and even such delights asRoller!

Unfortunately, the Isla de Tarifa is still considered by the authorities to be 'strategically important',and so remains 'out of bounds'. However, seabirds (mainly terns) can be seen from the narrowcauseway linking the island to the mainland and from the far end of the harbour wall (by the statueof Guzman el Bueno). The 2nd & 3rd weeks of May after strong easterly winds, is the best time forLesser Crested Tern for which this is the best site in Europe (see Birding World Vol 17 No3p129). The coastal walk east towards Guadalmesi may also offer opportunities for seawatching(Audouin’s and Cory’s and Balearic Shearwaters can pass close to the shore) This ‘sendero’runs from just east of the harbour along the coast to Guadalmesi. It has untapped potential formigrant passerines to judge from the number of migrating Monarch butterflies noted here.

Whale watching trips out of Tarifa are well worth the expense for good views of cetaceans (Long-finned Pilot Whale, Common and Bottle-nosed Dolphin are virtually guaranteed whilst thefortunate may encounter Sperm and Fin Whale. There are also special trips to see the sharplydeclining population of Orcas. The latter are arguably better for seabirds as better as they venturefurther out into the Atlantic side of the straits. However, sightings of Cory's and BalearicShearwater and Great Skuas are also highly likely on the ‘standard’ trips. The potential fororganised ‘chumming’ pelagics here does not seem to have been explored – but small groups ofWilson’s Petrel were was seen in 2011 on a specially chartered birding trip here and it has beensuggested that Bulwer’s Petrel and Little (Macronesian) Shearwater may be more frequent thatthe very few records indicate. For larger groups (12+), it may be possible to hire a boat you’re yourexclusive use. There are several whale watching companies, but I have found Turmares(www.turmares.com) to be the best.

Access: Follow the signs! Note that parking in Tarifa can be difficult in mid-summer.

SW 9.2 - ** Playa de los Lances Tarifa

Why visit? – The premier site for Lesser Crested Tern also Audouin’s Gull,waders,migrants, etc

é - generally good access along boardwalk (but this has been damaged by high tides in the past)

This is a great site marred by excessive disturbance from walkers (with or without a dog), horseriders and, above all, kite flyers (both conventional and surfing). Despite numerous signsbanning all these activities, the lagoon in front of the hide is regularly disturbed with kite surfersoften using it as a ‘nursery slope’ for beginners. (In 2013 hundreds of posts were rammed intothe sand here to prevent this abuse, but within days most were removed by vandals). Althougha designated reserve the local authority clearly doesn’t want to threaten the golden goose that iskite surfing whilst the kite surfers pay no regard to conservation issues!

However, on very calm days, exceptionally windy ones or early in the morning when the birdsare undisturbed, it can be excellent for waders. Grey and Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Sanderlingand Knot are often present even in June and Kentish Plover breed. If undisturbed gulls rooston the beach and a close look usually reveals a number of Audouin’s Gull, Hidden amongst theLittle, Sandwich and Common Terns there may be the occasional Lesser Crested Tern forwhich this is, arguably the best site in Europe. During migration periods a steady stream ofraptors may be passing overhead (Honey Buzzard, Black Kite, Booted Eagle, etc). Similarlya constant stream of hirundines, swifts, Bee-eaters, etc. pass low over the beach. The roughground may conceal Tawny Pipit, Short-toed Lark, etc. Along the coast towards Bolonia, carparks surrounded by dunes may have numerous passerine migrants.

Note: In August this road can get very busy and if your timing’s wrong you can get held up by traffic jams.

Access: Playa de los Lances is accessed through a new housing estate near the footballground from the northern end of Tarifa just before you join the E5/A340. Alternatively, as youcome from Vejer pull off the road on the right (& next to rubbish bins!) just short of the petrolstation (which is on the left). For leaflets on footpaths see - http://adsise.com/.

SW 9.3 - ** La Pena Area

Why visit? – Raptor migration – plus a chance of ‘extras’ such as Ruppell’s Vulture & EagleOwl

é - good viewing along track/roads

The woods that flank the beach along the road here (a) may hold migrants (see Map 35 for thisand other locations). As you reach the bulk of the Sierra de Enmedio (coming from Tarifa) turnoff to the right (north) onto a minor road which passes the Colectivo Ornitológico CigüeñaNegra (“Cocn”) information centre and into the hills. This track is a good site for raptors which isaugmented by a semi-official feeding station for vultures. About a kilometre along the road is aconcrete raptor watchpoint (b) - these structures are dotted along the coast at all officialwatchpoints (e.g. Puerto de Bolonia) which makes a good viewpoint. On the left just beyond thispoint are some crags where Eagle Owl have been seen in recent years. This was once a sitefor Rufous Bushchat but staff at “Cocn” office tell me that they no longer do so.

A little further on along the N340 turn off right (from the south) for ther Visitors’ Centre for theParque del Estrecho (c) just NW of the tower of La Pena. This centre is worth visiting forleaflets & information about walking routes. There's also a short sendero from here that makesa pleasant walk.

Access – turn east off the N-340 at 76.5 km)

SW 9.4 - ** Santuario de la Luz Tarifa

Why visit? – Raptor & general migration – plus a chance of ‘extras’ such asRuppell’s Vulture & Rufous Bushchat.

é - good viewing along roads; fair paths around the santuario

If you approach from the south (i.e. off the N340 Vejer-Tarifa road) scan the fields along the firstpart of the route carefully as Little Bustard have been reported here. Check all larks carefully asboth Crested and Thekla occur. The cactus ‘hedgerow’ here is also reputed to hold, or ratherconceal, Rufous Bushchat (I’ve yet to find them here, but others have done so). The rockyslopes in the distance to the west behind Tarifa hold the area’s few remaining Black Wheatear.The hills can be explored via the tracks off this road but a 4x4 is needed.

The santuario is a small ecclesiastical building surrounded by trees (often a welcome oasis ofshade and where you can enjoy an ice-cream from the kiosk in its grounds). Naturally the coverattracts migrants (e.g. Golden Oriole, Pied Flycatcher, Redstart, etc), but it can be busy withpicnickers at weekends. The scrub nearby is also another reputed location for Rufous Bushchatalthough in my experience you’re more likely to see little more than Woodchat Shrike. Duringmigration periods raptors often funnel along this valley so watching from the shade of thesantuario, although it limits your view, can be good. Vultures often seen spiralling down towardsthe watchpoint noted under SW9 – I caught up with my first Ruppell’s here so I like the place!

Further along the road towards the Ojen valley it becomes more rugged, but there are a numberof tracks that could be explored on foot. When you reach the road near Facinas you can either goleft for Bolonia (SW8), or La Janda (SW7) or right for the Ojen valley (SW14); both options areworth while.

Access: Turn north off the N 340/E 5 at 78.5km by prominent white ‘gateposts’. Alternatively, if approachingfrom the Facinas – Ojen valley road turn south onto the road signposted for the Santuario.

SW 10 Migration Watchpoints (N 340/E 5 Tarifa – Algeciras road).

Why visit? – Stunning raptor passage – one of the great ornithological spectacles of Europe.

é - some viewpoints have poor access but anywhere you can pull off may produce good views of raptors

See also:- Introduction for chart on raptor migration.Sites SW8, SW 9.2 & SW 9.3 for migration during easterly winds & in westerlies E9 El Higueron &G1 -Gibraltar

▪Check -‘Foundacion Migres' ( www.fondacionmigres.org ) website (if reactivated) for information on this area &raptor migration (in Spanish)

In recent years a series of watchpoints under the aegis of the ‘Migres’ programme have beenestablish long the Straits (although the current economic crisis has slashed support for thisorganisation with an inevitable impact on its activities). Those watchpoints along the N340 are besttreated as a single linear site (those to the west of Tarifa - Bolonia, La Pena and Playa de los Lances- and to the east – Puntas Camero & Secreta, near Algeciras - have been treated separately). Eachsite has its own character and idiosyncrasies.

Two major factors need to be considered when using and visiting these sites. The first is winddirection – broadly, in easterlies head for sites to the west and around Tarifa and in westerlies headfor sites nearer Algeciras. The second consideration is whether sites are north or south of theN340. If north they can usually only be accessed safely if travelling from the direction of Algecirasand if south then arriving from Tarifa is better (see individual sites for details). This is because theN340 is extremely busy with few places where you can safely change direction (El Pelayo is one).

The site list that follows is not exhaustive since anywhere you can pull off the road safely has greatpotential. Also, as the military grip on the area (which, ironically, has protected the landscape)weakens more good sites are likely to become available. The following sites are the most well knownand well watched sites.

Sites accessed from the direction of Algeciras are: El Algarrobo (99.1 km), Puerto del Bujeo (95 km) and El Cabrito (90.7 km) and Cazalla N-340 (87 km – but see also below)

Sites accessed from the direction of Tarifa are:Trafico (85km), Cazalla (87 km) Guadalmesi (89.5 km) and Mirador del Estrecho (well

signposted),

The situation at Cazalla (87 km) is problematical. In 2007 after much expense a swish purposebuilt centre, with space for displays and refreshments, was built at the watchpoint to the north ofthe road (i.e. to be approached from Algeciras direction).

However, this has since stood empty allegedly due to a variety of problems – depending on whoyou talk to it's delayed by difficulties in the putting in water and electricity supply (despite anelectricity pylon standing next to the site), concerns about the ‘dangerous’ access (raised onlyafter it was built) and a lack of finance to man the centre. Local birders tell me that the realproblem is 'political'. The situation seems to vary year by year – sometimes people pulling off ontothe track up to the vacant centre have found it blocked and have been ‘moved on’ by the police,but at other times crowds of birders have been free to access the site. Check locally for thecurrent situation. A rough track and simple shelter on the southern side of the N340 (i.e. to beaccess from Tarifa) now constitutes an alternative to this watchpoint. Crossing the road here onfoot certainly is dangerous and not recommended. Naturally, this may quickly change if the farcicalsituation is resolved.For those staying in Tarifa without transport, Trafico, is the best option sinceyou can now walk to the site using the newly reopened coastal footpath and local tracks. In 2011plans were announced to build a new Migres study centre in the old military installations belowTrafico and much work has been carried out, but at the time of writing (Autumn 2015) historyseems to be repeating itself and its completion appears to have been delayed. If and when itopens it should revolutionise raptor watching here. The withdrawl of the military along this coastmeans that many 'restricted' areas and roads are now becoming accessible. It will remain to beseen whether the de facto protection of this area that the military provided will be continued.

Raptor watching is usually best from c10:00 to 13:00 and again, to a lesser degree,16:00 – 18:00 .However, at peak migration times birds will be present throughout the day and rarer species don’tnecessarily appear at peak times. Migres staff believe that 90% of migrant raptors are reported ifCazalla and El Algarrobo are systematically watched. Hence it is here that efforts tend to beconcentrated. However, anywhere along the N340 where you can pull off safely (even mini-conurbations at El Pelayo and El Cuarton) can turn up the birds. Numbers day-to-day can varyenormously according to the weather. In the right conditions these sites can host many thousands ofraptors (e.g. 10,687 Honey Buzzards over Algarrobo 1st Sept 2012, 1,223 Short-toed Eagle overAlgorrabo on 21st September (see www.trektellen.nl for details).

REMEMBER – a) - if raptor watching for extended period in a hot and/or exposed site make sure you drink plenty of

water. b) - take a folding chair – being comfortable helps you focus!c) - use the exact km markers to warn you of the approach of the turning so you can signal in plenty of

time – several turnings are very sharp so take care.

é - some viewpoints have poor access but where ever you can pull off may produce good raptorpassage.

SW 10.1 - *** Trafico/Punta Camorro (access from direction of Tarifa at 85 km post)

Why visit? – Whilst not as convenient for estimating numbers, migrating raptors often tendto come lower and closer at this site.

é - generally good (short track up to viewpoint very uneven)

This raptor watching site is 2 kmnearer Tarifa and across the roadfrom Cazalla hence it is a goodoption when driving from Tarifa andif staying there without a car.Personally, this is my favourite site– it appears to be much better forgetting really close views of raptors.All the species as noted elsewherecan be seen here. The valley andriverine scrub here is a perfect“migrant trap” and recently mademore accessible now that themilitary have withdrawn from thearea. As noted under theintroduction to the area (SW10)'Migres' plan to build aeducation/research centre in one ofthe decommissioned coastalbatteries (an anachronistic legacysince they were built!) The coastalpath immediately to the south(accessed via Tarifa town)alleviates previous accessproblems along this coast althoughstretches are rather open with littleshade.

Just beside a large and obvious white villa there's a track next to which there's simple structureto provide shade at this watchpoint (a). Continuing towards the coast you reach the nowdefunct military checkpoint (now a new Migres study centre) just before which there's a roughtrack (b) leading towards a handful ofsmall cottages. This area can be alive with small passerines – dozens of Pied and SpottedFlycatchers may be present in spring for example. Since spring 2013 Common Babblershave been resident in the area. This track links to the coastal footpath. Continuing along the

road through the old checkpoint, you reach another simple shelter for raptor watching and aretreated to a splendid view across the Strait. In addition to migrants raptors, check the scrub forWryneck and passerines (Mousier's Redstart has been found here in the past). The hillsidedrops down to the coastal path (c) and, although not an ideal location, seawatching can pickup the usual variety of shearwaters, gulls, etc. This path makes a good route to and fromTarifa (see SW 9).

A purpose built study centre, with accommodation, has been built here for Migres (openautumn 2014) with the purpose of studying migration. This should be a source of informationand will increase the knowledge of this area. Unfortunately Tarifa island (Isla de las Palomas),an ideal location for seawatching, is only open to birdwatchers by arrangement via the NaturalPark, but, unless you have a good command of Spanish and knowledge of local bureaucracy,it's easier to contact a professional guide (I recommend Javi Elorriaga(javi@birdingthestrait.com) to sort out the paperwork.

Access – access from Tarifa turn off the N-340 south towards the sea at 85 km marker- ignore signswarning that this is military land since you are now permitted to use the road. Continue down the twistingtrack over a bridge and uphill until you reach the brow of the hill where you park (a - c 1.25 km from themain road) or continue twoards coast for (b) & (c)

SW 10.2 - *** Cazalla (access from 87 km post – see below)

Why visit? – Usually staffed by ‘Migres’ staff & hence well watched; Ruppell’s Vulturedaily in the autumn and in recent years home to a Long-legged Buzzard.

é - excellent if the access from direction of Algeciras is open; the alternative (from Tarifa)is up a short, but steep poorly maintained track surface rough for wheelchairs.

The classic, and well watched, raptor watching point where huge flocks of Black Kites, HoneyBuzzards, Griffon Vultures and White Stork can be seen plus a good sprinkling of variouseagles and falcons (inc. Eleonora’s if lucky). A Long-legged Buzzard has favoured this areafor several years. Ruppell’s Vulture seen daily in the autumn – probably reflecting the intensecoverage rather than an actual preference for the spot. It is best in easterly winds. All regularraptors can be seen here and it has a good record for rarer species.

Until recent economic constraints this centre was manned by ‘Migres’ volunteers (mainlySpaniards but also English speaking Scandinavians), but it still attracts many local abd not solocal enthusiasts who provide many eyes. Here you may be able to find out about currentmovements/numbers. A whiteboard with the latest counts/information is sometimes displayedhere.

At long last the access to the purpose built centre (constructed on the north side of the N 340 soapproached from Algeciras) has been resolved by the construction of a new tarmac access road(winter 2015/2016). As yet the buildings have not come into use, but this development givescause for optimism. This makes this option much more attractive than the 'primitive' alternativeacross the road (although this will remain to have the advantage of being accessed via Tarifa).

Access – if accessing to the purpose built centre (a large white building on a hill besides to the road) thenapproach from Algeciras taking the new slip road (which should be signposted) If arriving from Tarifa turnsouth off the N-340 at 87 km post. up a rough track.

SW 10.3 - ** Guadalmesi (access from direction of Tarifa at 89.5 km )

Why visit? – All the usual raptors, plus small migrants plus stunning views of Africa from the shoreline.

é - see below

Access to this area currently seems in doubt. In recent years the route through the moribundmilitary base seemed to be used by all, but from 2016 onwards the military has cracked down onaccess. They not only appear to have started to stop cars using the whole road and escortingthem back to the N 340, but also preventing pedestrian access along the road and then the

waymarked sendero (footpath) that follows a rough track that skirts the base. Hence the onlylegitimate route may now be along the coastal footpath between Tarifa and Punta Secreta(Algeciras). Things may change so I leave the account here but suggest you check locally andwarn against using the route without checking locally for the latest information regarding access.

Turn off the main N-340/E 5 onto military road No4 (only safely done as you approach fromTarifa). Once at the coast the road skirts along the coast to the small settlement of Guadalmesiwhere there is an old watch tower, a migration watchpoint and a small stream disgorging into thesea. The scrub here (and along the coast) may attract small migrant passerines. Monarchbutterflies also occur. The views of Africa here get gradually more and more stupendous. Goodfor small migrants and excellent for Monarch butterflies. Even if birds are few in number, thiswalk is worth it for the views. In 2008 the area north of the tower held a couple of (elusive) Long-legged Buzzards.

A newly refurbished and signposted sendero runs for 11km along the coast to Guadalmesi fromTarifa – should be superb when there are falls of small birds as well as being below a major raptormigration route. However, you will have to walk back along the coast, up to the N 340/E 5 tocatch a local bus or all the way to Punta Secreta in the east. Parts of this walk are shaded, but forthe most part this area is open with only small bushes so take precautions against heatstroke.

Access – approach from Tarifa turn south off the N-340/E 5 turn at 89.5 km

SW 10.4 - * El Cabrito (access from direction of Algeciras at 90.7 km)

Why visit? – All the usual raptors; possibility of exploring the

rocky interior. é - easy access by car

Noisy wind generators nearby and a lack of shade makes this a not entirely attractive propositionas a stop. However, the track here (which I've not explored) heads into the rocky hills for severalkilometres so may offer a slim chance of Black Wheatear a handful of which may still remain inthe area.

Despite being somewhat wind-blown, passerine migrants, exhausted Hoopoes, etc. can findshelter in what little cover is available.

Access – Approach from Algeciras - turn north off the N-340/E5 at 90.7 km – Pista de la Ahumad

SW 10.5 - ** Mirador del Estrecho (access from direction of Tarifa)

Why visit? – Although often overrun with tourists, the mirador remains is a good place tofor refreshments

é - good

A great place to stop to get those inevitable snaps across to Africa. The refreshments are ‘bogstandard’ fare, but where else can you munch a ‘bocadillo’ whilst viewing such fantastic raptorpassage? You have a chance to see all the raptors to be found at other sites. Be prepared,though, to field questions from curious tourists – your chance to do some PR for birding.

Access – tapproach from Tarifa - the mirador is well sign posted south off the N-340/E5 not far east of ElCabrito. You cannot turn off left here as you approaching from Albeciras so overshoot (c120m) turn up a dirttrack to turn round. The mirador is also a spot where you can legally change direction'

SW 10.6 - * El Cuarton (access from direction of Algeciras)

Why visit? – Good views of raptors plus stunning

views over the strait. é - good

Until recently the road which runs up to the TV masts above El Cuarton was closed to generaltraffic, but according to the booklet 'Birds from the Coast of Trafalgar' it is now open allowingvisitors to drive c7km into the hills and c800m above the straits. The birds to be seen here aremuch the same as those to be found at other watch points. However, when I have looked insummer the gate has been locked & the track closed – apparently due to the risk of fire. Despitethe booklet, it may be more prudent to park before the gate and walk up even if the gate is open.

Access – Arriving from Algeciras you turn inland just after a petrol station at Km 93.2 (arriving from Tarifait would be dangerous to turn left here across the traffic, but you should be able to turn right into El Cuartonand then cross the road). Continue up a well made road, past a collection of white buildings on a sharp righthand bend, round a second still sharper left, past two roads on the left and then right at a crossroads. Followthis upwards to the barrier which may or may not be open to traffic (see above) and then into the hills. Afterc2.5km the tarmac road swings sharp left, but you go right to take the second track on the right which takesyou further uphill following a valley until you reach the summit.

SW 10.7 - ** Puerto del Bujeo (access from direction of Algeciras at 95 km).

Why visit? – All the usual raptors; plus a good walk along a wooded ‘canuto’ & possiblyfurther inland.

é - good; path inaccessible but good gravel track

If you want to combine raptor watching with a good walk then try this site. Approach from Algeciras(the only safe and legal way to get on the track!), but it’s still a tight right turn so take care (exitingalso needs caution). Drive up a steep gravel track (easily missed as it's just over the brow of thehill) and park beneath trees c30m from the main road. This site has more cover than some of thealternatives so can attract migrants (e.g. Pied & Spotted Flycatchers, Whitethroats, etc), but alsohas a resident population of Cirl & Rock Buntings, etc.

A walk along narrow steep sided wooded valley (= canuto) is botanically interesting; it also providedshelter for migrants. This is a pleasant circular walk (returning along the forest track) with somemuch needed shelter. Amongst the Mediterranean exotica in autumn/winter Siskin can come as abit of a surprise!

Tracks running up the hill from the parking place cross the Sierra de Bujeo to reach, in theory, thedistant outer suburbs of Algeciras. In the process stunning views across the straits can be gained.I’ve never risked it as, when I checked, the road was in dreadful condition.

Access – turn north off the N-340/E5 at km95

SW 10.8 - ** Huerte Grande (access from direction of Tarifa 95 km;see also below).

Why visit? – An excellent new education centre, well wooded grounds and convenientchalets (with café).

é - centre and garden accessible

This is another site with a good amount of cover and hence attractive to migrants. A footpath (Cerrodel Tambor) along a well marked track runs south-east and then south-west from here for 5km toreach an old bunker (returning by the same route) and the coast. Once again this provides superbviews and the woodland along the route can attract all the usual migrants, but on the downside itpasses through a wind farm. This route takes you to, or very near, the La Hoya watchpointmentioned in some texts. It should be possible continue along the track here to Guadalmesi (2 km?).Although signposted as a restricted military road for 'authorised vehicles only' it appears to be usedwithout let or hindrance by all manner of drivers. Naturally, views across to Africa are stupendous. Anew education centre has recently opened here and has some excellent displays (in Spanish) on thestraits and migration. As noted in the introduction there is accommodation (in the form of chalets) atHuerte Grande (see www.osmundasur.es) where there is also a small venta. In previous yearsLong-legged Buzzard have lingered in this area. Both Two-tailed Pasha and Monarch butterflies

occur. The owners of the venta/holiday accommodation here (who speak fluent English) are veryhelpful and keen to encourage birdwatching in the area. They have organised several BirdwatchingFairs here in recent years so it's worth contacting them particularly if one is being run when you visit(see – http://www.huertagrande.com/english.html ).

Access – turn south off the N-340/E5 at km 97 (from Tarifa) or access via El Pelayo (km 97 fromAlgeciras

SW 10.9 - *** El Algarrobo (access from direction of Algeciras at 99.1 km).

Why visit? – Usually staffed by ‘Migres’ staff & hence well watched; Ruppell’s Vulturedaily in the autumn.

é - very poor track up to viewpoint makes access difficult

This site is, with Cazalla, the most important raptor watching site in the area and is particularly goodin periods of westerly easterly winds y winds in autumn. Take great care turning off (and onto) themain road – there is a ‘crawler’ lane - but some motorists still like to tailgate you even when you haveindicated your intention to turn right well in advance. Look out for a series of tall white poles in thefield to your right – the turning is a short distance further on next to a 80 kph sign. The track is at aright angle to the main road so you need to take it carefully. If someone's turning out of the turningyou may have to continue along the main road. (If possible look at 'GoogleEarth to familiariseyourself with this tricky turning).

The track continues to be in very poor condition although local politicians have promised to improveaccess..... As the last stretch is the worst, you may wish to park just beyond the wire 'gate' andfence near the road and walk up to the official ‘observatorio’ (watchpoint). ’ which is only 30-40mfurther along the track. Along with Cazalla, this is the main ‘Migres’ watchpoint and is accordinglyusually staffed by volunteers. Ruppell’s Vulture are also regularly reported here along with all theusual species. If coming from Tarifa it’s only 2.5 km further on to a roundabout where you canconveniently reverse direction.

Note - An alternative, if arriving from the west, is to pull off to the right on to an access road to twoobvious radio masts at (Km 99), but make sure you're parked off the tarmac to avoid a fine.. Thissite is Marchenilla which has a similar track record for interesting birds as El Algarrobo which ishardly surprising as they are opposite one another (although you will find fewer eyes to help yousearch).

Another alternative, as you come from Algerciras, is to take the minor turning on the right (c1kmuphill beyond Venta Jose Mari) through a small industrial estate upwards towards a smallsettlement. Pull off near the Villa Margarita for views across towards El Algarrobo or continueupwards taking the next left to access a footpath linking to a track (Senda de los Prisioneros) thattakes you still higher. This track can also be accessed via the Rio de la Miel sendero (El Cobre)which is itself also worth investigating as it has Iberian Chiffchaff and is good for plants being aclassic 'canuto') Both sites have the disadvantage that you do not have the advantage of manyfellow observers searching for birds.

Access – turn off the N-340/E5 turn at 99.1 km Pista a Huerta Serafin

SW 11 - ** Puntas Carnero & Secreta (See map 37)

Why visit? – An excellent watchpoint for raptors (esp. in spring) with the added bonus of seabirds

é - good viewing along road – but parking limited at Carnero

A good site for both raptors and seabirds (but note that, unlike sites along the Atlantic coast, this onefaces east/south-east so seawatching in the morning can be difficult). There is limited parking. Be awarethat if you park on the lighthouse road at Punta Carnero it can be tight to turn round. However, it's wellworth stopping as raptors pass very low at this point in the spring (esp. over the nearby ridge to the west)and hence is often populated by bird photographers. (Europe's first Batleur Eagle was found here).

There is more parking on the ‘seafront’ in the “Urbanisation de Punta Carnero” (confusingly nearer PuntaSecreta) although it's a 500-700m uphill walk back to the lighthouse. Seawatching can producenumerous Gannets, Great Skua, Audouin’s Gull, Cory’s and Balearic Shearwater (plus Yelkouan?).

In strong westerlies in spring birds of prey may come in very low (again, all expected birds can be seen).Excellent views across to Gibraltar. The low scrub and stream near Getares may be worth a secondglance for migrants. Similarly the walk westwards to Torre de l Fraille can muster more than the usualnumber of migrant passerines. Note that at weekends and during the holiday period, traffic jams can buildup with the junction with the N 340/E 5.

Access – turn off the N-340/E5 onto the CA-223 towards Getares – after c1 km go right at the roundabout on theedge of Getares continue & park near lighthouse or go further on to park in the small hamlet at the end of the road.(Note – parked cars can make it difficult to turn round on the lighthouse road)

SW 12 - * Palmones Estuary

Why visit? – A small estuary for a good selection of waders, gulls & terns plus passing migrantraptors & storks.

é - good viewing from Palmones village; poor from Rinconcillo

The estuary here can be viewed from the north from Palmones village and the south from El Rinconcillo, asuburb of Algeciras.

Palmones is the easier to access and is a good stop if you have to do some shopping at nearbysupermarkets off the E15/N340 south of Los Barrios. The promenade (a) here allows a good view overthe marsh and the opportunity to enjoy a coffee or snack in pleasant surroundings. White Storks and agood variety of waders (Whimbrel, Curlew, 'shanks, etc) can be seen here as can Caspian Tern.Naturally, it also has passing raptors and storks during passage.

The Algeciras side of the estuary – El Rinconcillo - has a view point (b), board walk, rough ground and asmall wet dune slack (c) which can hold Penduline Tit and Bluethroat in winter. Once again it offersgood views of waders, gulls & terns. However, the area can become quite disturbed since this is apopular spot for wind surfing (d). The saltmarsh and rough grazing (e) can hold large numbers of storks.

Access: i) For Palomones village on leaving the A 381 head left towards Malaga then exit right at the first junctionoff the E5/N340 and follow signs to the village - there’s a large car park as you enter the village ii) For ElRinconcillo head right towards Algeciras and come of right immediately after the bridge over the river at Exit 109.Take the second exit at the roundabout to pass back under the E5/N340 and then at the next roundabout take thefirst exit. At a T-junction go right (Avenida del Embarcadero) and almost at once turn left (into Calle del Flamenco).Go straight over the first crossroads, but turn left at the second (into Calle Camino la Mediana). Carry straight on (itbecomes a track) to the Parque Municipal de Marismas OR turn last right into Calle Cabo Ajo, then first left (intoCalle Cabo Finisterre) and then follow until you reach the sea.

SW 13 – ** Southern Alcornocales

Why visit? – Some great walks in typical woodland habitat; Iberian Chiffchaff, etc.

é - good viewing along road and tracks but most footpaths not adequate for wheelchairs; excellent wheelchair friendly path with braille signs at the far end of the Sendero de Valdeinfierno

The Alcornocales (= ‘cork oaks’) is a heavily wooded area of low sandstone hills and mountains. It isbisected by the recently built A381 which forms a convenient, if unnatural, division between thenorthern part of the park (accessed via small mountain roads between Alcala de los Gazules andJimena de la Frontera) and the southern sierras.

Although the new A381 carves something of an unsightly gash through the area, it does mean thatthe old road (now the ‘via servicio’) is now a pleasant virtually traffic free route through the park withplenty of opportunities to stop and scan the skies. Pulling over on this road will pick up most speciesin the area, but there are also a number of pleasant senderos (footpaths) that allow greater access .Walking these paths is often a good way to catch up with Iberian Chiffchaff, Cirl Bunting, CrestedTit, etc.

. Many of these footpaths (senderos) are shown on aseries of leaflets (see - http://adsise.com/.) . The Visitors’ Centre off the A381 on the Benalup roadhas a selection of leaflets (including the excellent ‘Ornithological map’).

The short list of routes noted below (in order as you drive south) is not exhaustive, but will allow youto explore a good range of habitats (see also SW1 & E2.1 for other routes off the A381):-

a) - Sendero La Teja – take exit 66 -. The footpath is on the left c1.7 km to the south It has agood mix of woodland and open land with views of the Alcornocales. I have had Iberian GreenWoodpecker, a scarce species in the southern part of the Alcornocales plus Iberian Chiffchaff,Rock Bunting etc. Bonelli’s Eagle is a possibility here as I had a pair displaying here in May 2011.

b) Sendero Monasterio del Cuervo – this footpath runs west from the Charco Redondoreservoir into the hills to a ruined monastery. It should have many of the birds noted above. c) - Sendero El Palancar – take exit 70 - this is circular route of c7 km is 2km south of this exit(by the Charco Redondo reservoir). It snakes through woodland and open land plus a couple ofancient cave shelters – good for all the species noted at other sites, but is probably better for passingraptors. d) - Sendero de Valdeinfierno – take exit 73 - A gem of the walk (5km) with wheelchairaccessible footpath is on the right c1.5km from the exit. Either park on the track just off the serviceroad or drive c1km along the track to the wheelchair accessible walk. The walk explores a narrowshady valley (= ‘canuto’). The car park just off the road usually has Cirl Bunting and often Black-eared Wheatear. The woodland has Crested Tit, Iberian Chiffchaff, etc. An evening visit couldconceivably produce Eagle and Scops Owl. It appears that the track here continues well into thehills. e) Area Recreativa Montera del Torero - a little to the south of the Valdeinfierno there’s aconvenient picnic site (Area Recreativa Montera del Torero) which can be worth exploring although itcan get noisy at weekends..

Note that the northern part of the Alcornocales is treated in E2 – this split reflecting thecommunication routes rather than any difference in habitats or birds, Site E2.1 is particularly close-by. The Ojen valley is given a separate section (SW14) as is the wonderfully noxious, but raptor richLos Barrios rubbish tip (SW15)

Access: The old A381 rolls its way down towards Algeciras switching from side to side of the new main road(accessed from the village from both the north and south exits off the A381). There are also minor tracks andpaths heading into the park which cry out for exploration.

SW 14 - *** Ojen Valley

Why visit? –During contrary autumnal winds this valley forms a ‘waiting room’ for migratingBoPs; when passage is at it’s height they can stream through.

é - good viewing along track; footpaths not accessible.

NOTE – despite being listed in bird guides for over two decades and regularly used bybirders without problems for even longer I'm told that the Guardia Civil now stop'unauthorised vehicles' from using it and have orders to prosecute those who do. Checklocally for the current situation . The route, of course, remains open to walkers & cyclists TheOjen valley can be accessed either from the service road just north of Los Barrios (a) or minor roadsto the south & east of Facinas (e). The following assumes driving from the direction of Los Barrios,

but the approximate distance from the turning off the Santuario (SW9.4)-Facinas road is given inbrackets. Note that it often takes a lot longer to drive this route than you expect!

This is one of the best places for birds of prey in southern Spain – raptor migration can be excellentso almost anything may turn up. In autumn when winds are unfavourable for cross-straits migration,the number of vultures and eagles here can quickly build up. Lanner have been seen in the past andit is a regular site for Ruppell’s Vultures (e.g. two here in August 2009). Bonelli’s Eagle occur.Common, Pallid, Alpine and White-rumped Swift may be present with the area around the 22 km‘kilometre post’ said to be the most regular site for the latter, most elusive, species. (Note – in 2010this marker, like many others, were removed during road repairs).

Starting from service road (a) the A381 (21km) the road rises through farmland for 7.5 km (13.5km)to an old ruin (b) which makes a good watchpoint. A footpath along the Arroyo San Carlos delTiradero (c) emerges from the woods just by the ruins, but is easier approached c1 km further alongthe track where the woods shade the track (12.8km). The path cuts down to a stream through someancient woodland which has Iberian Chiffchaff, Bonelli’s Warbler, Crested Tit, Robin, Wren, etc.Another path, along the Canuto del Rico Blanco (d), runs uphill to the west, but needs specialpermission (from the park offices which have recently moved to the complex of buildings just off theBenalup road near the A381). Look out for a small pond along the route here which has information(in Spanish) on local amphibians.

As the track continues towards Facinas there are many places to stop and the traffic is light. If open,weekends are best, stop at the small ‘venta’ (e) after about 11.5 km (9.5 km). It is one of the few thatstill cooks over a wood fire and has beaten earth floors! Raptors are often good here and theviewpoint c1km back towards Los Barrios often has Tawny Pipit. I As you approach the smallreservoir (d) – about 15 km (3.6 km) - it becomes more open and less wooded. This area is oftengood for Thekla Lark.

Beyond the reservoir the track finally becomes a good tarmac road particularly to the Santuario(SW9.4) and onto La Pena (SW9.3). If staying in Facinas you might try exploring the senderos alongthe ridge (a leaflet is available locally). It should be excellent for raptors.

Note on road condition: Despite being shown on some maps as a ‘proper’ road this is no more thana track.In summer 2009 it was regraded and extensively repaired so that it was then a pleasant drive.However, by 2010 the road was already showing signs of wear and runnels/potholes already inevidence and by 2014 it was in a very poor state – doubtfully passable by anything other than a 4x4.

Access: Take the A381 south exiting at either Exit 73 (drive south on the servicio past SW15f) or take exit 77further south and drive north. Otherwise take the most northerly exit on the N340 for Fascinas and then first leftwhich takes you to the valley.

SW 15 – * Los Barrios Rubbish Tip

Why visit? – A great site for raptor photography (esp. Black Kite) with a good record forRuppell’s Vulture; may also have Eagle Owl.

é - good, if very smelly, viewing along road & track

This rubbish tip was once the best place in the area to see kites and vultures (esp during the weekwhen in use), but recent changes in the regime has made it far less attractive than it used to be.

Take Exit 80 to a roundabout where you can either head right towards Los Barrios or swing left alongthe service road. If you go left along the service road, turn off to the right after c0.6 km to explore aminor road for a good mix of passerines and passing raptors. This is a good area for Hawfinch (esp.early in the morning); check the trees on the left immediately after turning onto the road and sometall poplars after c400m for this species. At the end of the road there's a sendero into the woodland(a) which may be worth a look. If you continue along the service road the venta here – RestauranteVenta El Frenazo - is one of the best in the area and is worth a stop in its own right. If you head intoLos Barrios turn left after c800m onto a minor road towards Estacion de San Roque (and on to

Jimena). . After just under 3km turn left at a sharp bend towards the rubbish tip Raptors oftencongregate along this road (b) and may include dozens of Lesser Kestrels hanging in the air besidethe road. The rubbish tip (c) soon comes into view so swing off left onto a good track that skirts thesite. It can take some determination to stay at this often extraordinarily smelly and fly ridden site, but,if endured, the rewards can be fantastic. Attracted by plentiful food Black Kites can float over at lowlevel, Griffon Vultures constantly commute to and fro and for Ruppell’s Vulture this is a regularsite. Hardly surprising, as it sits beneath a major migration route, this place often has streams ofHoney Buzzard, Booted and Short-toed Eagles passing over in season. (I once had 18 species ofraptor – including Ruppell’s Vulture and Lanner - here in a couple of hours) Drive along the tracksflanking the tip – to the left, c1km beyond the entrance to the tip, you can pull over in a gateway (d)where raptors pass over a low ‘saddle’ towards the tip without so much of a stink. (You also have asuperb views across the Alcornocales). Numerous White Stork and Cattle Egret are also present.

The site may also attract Eagle Owl although seeing them isn’t easy. Note that a Long-leggedBuzzard has been resident in the Los Barrios area forseveral years so check all buzzards in the area carefully.(Unfortunately, I do not know the exact location althoughit does seem, from photos, to like sitting on pylons!). LosBarrios itself also has Scops Owl – which seems ascarce species in this area.

Once committed to this route it can be worth continuingalong the CA9207 to reach the A405 north of SanRoque station. The open habitat here (e) looks worthexploring for species like Tawny Pipit and may holdsome surprises. This is also a good alternative route ifheading for Castellar/Jimena.

Access: Take the northern exit (Exit 77) for Los Barriosand head towards the town for just under 1 km and thentake the first left onto the CA920 (for San Roquestation/Castellar). After c3km go left at a T-junctiontowards the rubbish tip (2km). Park along the roughtrack to the left (you can also park by a gate anotherc1km further on)

SW 16 – * Vejer Area

Why visit? – An historic town (with Lesser Kestrels), some interesting walks and views over wetlands, but mainly to see re-introduced Bald Ibis.

é - walks not easily accessible, but much can be seen from the roads.

Although an attractive town with a good population of Lesser Kestrels and well placed to get itsshare of passing migrant raptors, Vejer would not feature on any birding itinerary were it not for thesmall colony of re-introduced Bald Ibis breeding nearby. This colony is already a matter of localpride and its existence has now been publicised on Spanish TV, in newspapers and widely on theinternet. A number of nearby footpaths and tracks give access the surrounding countryside whilst thearchaeological remains provide a pleasant diversion from birding. The town itself makes a pleasantbase for exploring the area (particularly for those with non-birding partners).

Take the A 315 Barbate road, but after a few hundred metres pull off onto a large gravel car park inLa Barca de la Frontera. The riverine bushes here has a good colony of Cattle and Little Egrets,but the star of the show is the small colony of Bald Ibis breeding on the cliffs (a) above the road.Although extraordinarily tolerant of passing traffic (vehicular and pedestrian) remember that this isone of the rarest birds in the world so give them plenty of space. In spring they often rummage in thecar park for nesting material where, by staying in your car and being patient, you can get excellentphotos. The nearby venta is highly recommended.

A minor road, just short of the small industrial estate, which follows the Rio Barbate affords goodviews across what was once the Laguna del Torero (b). Although rather distant, the rice paddieshere can hold Collared Pratincoles, Purple, Squacco & Night Herons, White & Black Storks, etc.so are often worth a short detour. In the evenings check for the very local Scops Owl which may bepresent. Look out too for Black-winged Kite in this area.

Further along this road there's a large sign for the 'Ruta El Abejaruco' (c) – largely designated for itsarchaeological interest, this footpath that snakes up over the hill affording superb views across thevalley toVejer. This path is good for Cirl Bunting, Mediterranean warblers, etc and the small orchard wherethe path divides looks perfect for Wryneck. A second footpath, Ruta 'Molinas de Aqua' at SantaLucia (d), passes more impressive ancient remains (an aqueduct), but has a similar mix of birds.The minor road running south (e) quickly degenerates into a dirt track, but not before it takes youalong a spectacular ridge giving you excellent views in all directions. Naturally, this ridge can attractmigrating raptors. This track – poor in parts – eventually reaches the woods at la Brena. Finally, aseries of pools off the A 315 (f) attract a range of wading birds [see also SW6 (a)].

3 – EAST CADIZ PROVINCE

Introduction - Essentially, this mountainous area comprises of the northern part of the AlcornocalesNatural Park and Grazalema Natural Park (partially in Malaga province). To the north and east it isdefined by provincial boundaries and to the south by the Mediterranean. The only wetlands areLagos de Arcos & Bornos to the north and Sotogrande on the coast. The valley of the Guadiaro (onthe border with Malaga) is a stronghold for Rufous Bushchat and Tawny Pipit. The mountains(esp. Grazalema) are strongholds for Bonelli’s Eagle, Eagle Owl, Rock Thrush, Black Wheatear,Rock Sparrow and, in winter, Alpine Accentor. To the south lies Gibraltar – a famous watchpointand home to Barbary Partridge.

Downloadable leaflets: Grazalema leaflet - http://adsise.com/?p=50&lang=es-esAlcornocales - http://adsise.com/?p=21&lang=es-es

E1 - * Lago (Embalse) de Arcos & Lago (Embalse) de Bornos

Why visit? – Nesting herons, Purple Gallinule, waders, winter ducks & poss. Savi’s &Olivaceous Warbler

é - good viewing along road/tracks – footpaths generally poor.

These two reservoirs are probably not prime destinations for wetland birds (other areas are better),but make a very convenient stop for those staying in or going to the Grazalema.

Lago (or Embalse) de Arcos (a) is asmall reservoir at the foot of the hillupon which Arcos de la Frontera stands.It is overlooked by the newish suburb ofEl Santiscal (reached by the A372Grazalema road). View from thepromenade along Av. de Principe deEspana for grebes and such like inwinter. A minor road (b) which swingsnorth (via the dam for Embalse deBornos), then west onto the A384,passes some wetter areas (particularlyin the north-east corner of the reservoir)and may be worth a quick look (Savi’sWarbler has been reported from thearea). Similarly the CA6105 passes thesouthern shore of the Embalse deBornos where limited views can begained (c). This road eventuallyreaches the A373 where you can headnorth for Villa Martin

The much larger northern reservoir, Lago (or Embalse) de Bornos, is much more interesting –particularly around the shallower ‘arms of the lake. The first (as you head north-east) is just west ofthe settlement of Coto de Bornos. Take the CA 7102 to the village, but after c750m pull off onto atrack along the back of this ‘arm’ which is visible after several hundred metres. Depending on waterlevels this may be in prime condition or just a dry lakebed. The tamarisk scrub is good forOlivaceous Warbler.

Further along the A384 you can turn north on the A371 (to Espera) where you can survey anothershallow part of this reservoir (e) – if wet a good spot for Little Ringed Plovers and migrant waders.A walkable track runs along the western edge of this arm. Other tracks run through tamarisk scrubwest from Villa-Martin; turn off the A384 for Villamartin, but almost immediately head west on adrivable dirt track. Pull off by the lake and explore on foot. Note that after a wet winter all of this areamay be under water.

The best area, though, is along a signposted track (f) running south from the far (eastern) side of thebridge that crosses this ‘arm’. The old bridge here projects into the tamarisks and a track runs alongthe side of the lake to a shallow inlet clogged with vegetation and a small peninsular/island (againdepending on water levels). There are usually plenty of herons here – Cattle & Little Egret (look outfor Great White), Purple, Night and Squacco Heron. The reed/tamarisk swamp also has PurpleGallinule and Olivaceous Warbler Osprey winters and, due to the local re-introduction project, isa good bet for breeding in the near future

Access: Lago de Bornos is c8km from Arcos and cannot be missed as head along the A 384 Arcos-Algodonales-Ronda road. For directions to exact sites see above. Lago de Arcos is north of the A 372 Arcos-Grazalema road.

E2 - ** Los Alcornocales (North)

Why visit? – A spectacular area of wild wooded mountains with good numbers of raptors.

é - decent birding from the road.laybys/picnic sites, but few tracks/paths accessible bywheelchair

The Alcornocales Natural Park is huge area low sandstone mountains and hills, mainly wooded (orscrub covered) until you reach the higher peaks. . Birds present include Griffon Vultures, Booted &Bonelli's Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, Eagle Owl, Rock Buntings Bonelli’s Warbler, IberianChiffchaff, Whiterumped Swift, etc., plus familiar birds like Great-spotted Woodpecker, Robin,Wren, Nuthatch, Mistle Thrush etc. Anywhere with a good view or access to habitats can beproductive, but the following sub-sites are particularly good:-

E 2.1 - ** Alcala de los Gazules & the Molinos Valley (see also SW 1)

Why visit? – Lesser Kestrels in Alcala and a gentle introduction to the mountains.

é - good views of Lesser Kestrel in the village; track along Molinos valley good, but footpathsinaccessible.

Alcalá de los Gazules is the ‘gateway’ to the park from the SW. My coverage of the area isprobably rather overdone as this is my base in the province. Nonetheless it’s a good area toexplore with interesting habitats. It is also home to a good population of Lesser Kestrel and on anearly spring evening it’s quite possible to see c80-100 birds over the village. For closer viewsfollow signs to the old town through the village and walk up San Jorge Church (you can drive, butthe route out of the village from here is tricky if you don’t know it) Look for Lesser Kestrelsperching on the trees that line the road beside the steep escarpment to the west. (Excellentphotographic opportunities exist here – better still from my terrace where, if I’m at home, I’ll inviteyou in for a beer! The old mirador by the castle has excellent views into the park and can be goodfor watching migration. Blue Rock Thrush sometimes breed here.

A number of good sites are dotted around the village:-a) - Ermita de los Santos (santuario) – take well signposted exit off the A381 for the santuario (just

north of Alcala de los Gazules). Follow the road to the santuario (c1.7 km ) and explore thewaymarked tracks on foot (or a 4x4?). To the north this runs through the old olives back to the A381.To the south tracks go through increasingly open farmland ultimately lead to the A396 (see SW2 (c).Not fully explored but the habitat looks very interesting!

b) Venta la Liebre track – a track/footpath runs from the santuario under the A381 to theservice road where it continues north into the scrub – another place to explore. A little further alongthe service road a drivable track (b) – signposted for Paterna and viewable on GoogleStreetview!)

runs through interesting light scrub to the Venta la Liebre on the CA6200 (Alcala-Paterna road).Another area worthy of further exploration.

c) Service road below Alcala - the service road that links Exits 42 and 45 on the A381 should not beignored. Just east of Exit 42 a bridge crosses a small stream – Red-rumped Swallow may nesthere and the scrub can hold both Melodious and Olivaceous Warbler . Further along I’ve hadHawfinch and, once, Eagle Owl.

d) Rio Barbate, Alcala – a signposted ‘footpath’ follows the track here crossing a ford over the river andon towards the A381. The trees here have Golden Oriole and the scrub may repay furtherinvestigation.

e) Molinos valley - a good tarmac road heads off eastwards along the Molinos valley. Just after youturn onto this road look out for Black-eared Wheatear on the right; a pair usually breed here. Thisvalley can channel migrants in the spring so is often ‘alive’ with Woodchat Shrike, Bee-eater, etc.Just under 3km along the road a track off on the right (e on map) can be profitably explored – againit’s a good spot for Black-eared Wheatear, but migrants filter along here (inc., with luck, Great-spotted Cuckoo in early spring).

f) Molinos sendero - a very pleasant walk (f) takes you c1.5 km into the hills and, in theory at least,this old droveway goes all the way through to Jimena, but you can walk up to the Carrel Picacho-Piguera (g). The crags here harbour Blue Rock Thrush throughout the year (although they seem tohave declined in recent years) and pay close attention to the larks as I've had both Crested andThekla Lark here. In spring and summer Woodchat Shrike, Black-eared Wheatear and Beeeaterare frequent. I have had Rock Sparrow along this stretch, but they are very scarce and unusual inthe area. This is an excellent walk for seeing raptors; I have seen Egyptian Vulture, Bonelli's Eagle(less frequent in recent years), Peregrine, and Goshawk here. There's a large roost (200 - 600+birds) of Griffon Vultures at the end of the valley and so it’s a good place to look for thesemagnificent birds particularly when they are scarce elsewhere. (NB Spain’s second Ruppell’sVulture occurred within the ‘parish’ so this must be as good a site as anywhere to look for thiselusive visitor). As you climb up along the footpath you pass through a narrow defile and then dropdown to old ruined mill (molino) buildings – good spot to stop and scan the skies from the shade. Theopen scrub has Cirl Bunting whilst the woods hold Long-tailed Tit, Firecrest and IberianChiffchaff. After the Llanos de Libar (see E3) this is the place that most impresses visitors I’ve takento this area.

g) Carrel Picacho-Piguera – take exit 45 - this cycle route is rather further from Alcala than the othersites noted here, but is more easily treated in this section. It’s about 12 km south of the servicestation along the service road. Taking care to avoid speeding cyclists follow the track into lightwoodlands This is a good site for Iberian Chiffchaff, Bonelli’s Warbler, etc. It eventually links to theroad from Alcala de los Gazules just north of El Picacho.

Access - Take the CA215 from the village for Ubrique, but turn right at a sharp bend towardsthe local campsite. Drive to the end of the road and take the footpath into the hills. Continue upto the old ruined mills.

E 2.2 ** Alcornocales - El Picacho - Puerto Galis – Charco de los Hurones

Why visit? – A terrific driving route with several good options on foot; Iberian Chiffchaff,Bonelli’s Eagle, raptors.

é - good viewpoints along road; footpaths not wheelchair friendly except cycle route (c).

The narrow, twisting, turning CA 215 corkscrews it’s way up into the mountains from Alcala –aptly so as it runs through cork oak woodland. The wooded picnic site at El Picacho (a) is about11km from the turning onto the CA 215 below Alcala (or, if coming from the north, 9.5 km fromPuerto Galis). The area around the picnic site and the carpark a little further on is a reliable site forBonelli’s Warbler, Firecrest, Nuthatch (a recent arrival here) and Short-toed Treecreeper. Forthe energetically inclined there’s a walk up from the car park to El Picacho (b - the obvious peakabove the road) via the Subida al Picacho sendero (c4:00 hr). Alpine Accentor has been seen inwinter here (but other sites for this species can be reached by car). Griffon Vultures, Booted andBonelli’s Eagles are regular here. For the less energetic there’s the Garganta de Puerto Oscurosendero (40 mins.) which takes in a small woodland pool (Grey Wagtail is regular here).

The longer walk needs permission from the parkauthorities (in centre just off the Benalup road near Alcala).There is also a ‘feeding station’ for vultures just south of the‘field station’ here, but this is not open to the public (it doesmean, though, that there are often vultures in the area). Ifstaying at the El Picacho centre (www.elpicacho.es) you maybe able to arrange a visit. The path up to the peak crosses acycle route (c) accessed from further up the CA 215) thatultimately reaches the A 381 (see E2.1 g).

The junction of the minor road (CA 5201) to San Jose is theexcellent viewpoint of Puerto Palomas* (d) – another goodspot for raptors including Peregrine, Griffon Vultures,Goshawk, Sparrowhawk, Booted & Short-toed Eagles.(*Note: not to be confused with a second ‘Puerto Palomas’ inGrazalema) Spanish Imperial and Golden Eagles havealso been seen here (esp. in winter), but you’d need luck tosee one. Crag Martin, Alpine Swift, etc. occur but are oftendistant The road to San Jose can make a pleasant circularroute back to Alcalá.

At a sharp bend another minor road (CA 6108) heads off forAlgar. This can be a pleasant detour and a scenic route toArcos de la Frontera After c7km there’s a very attractiveand 7km scenic drive on the right to Charco de los Hurones(e - also c7km from the CA6108). There’s a circular 6kmwalk (Cortijo

Rojitan) through the wooded hills on the right at the start of this road. Just over halfway to Charcode losHurones there’s a small picnic site along the river with a rocky crage nearby (often good for GriffonVulture). Charco de los Hurones itself is charming ‘model village’ (with a small venta forrefreshments) built for workers in the hydro-electric industry. From here footpaths take you up to(and across) the dam of a large reservoir and into the surrounding woods. Heading towards Algarthere’s also a large reservoir that can concentrate hirundines and swifts (and Lesser Kestrels).The La Sauceda – Aljibe area (f) is covered below.

Access – See map

E 2.3 - **La Sauceda–Jimena (North) - Cadiz/Malaga (see also E6)

Why visit? – Open woodland – Crested Tit, Iberian Green Woodpecker, raptors, etc.

é - viewing possible off parking places along the route

At the venta at Puerto Galis, go straight on for Ubrique on the A 2304 (see E2 on Grazalema) orright towards Jimena da la Frontera. (The Jimena road is the CA 8201 in Cadiz Province whichbecomes the C3331 as it passes through Malaga province only to transform itself back into the CA8201 as it returns into Cadiz Province). Note that the venta at Puerto Galis has the reputation ofserving the best game dishes in the area -recommended. About 4.5 km down this road (or c15kmfrom Jimena) on a sharp bend is the abandoned settlement of La Sauceda (a); once a notorioushaunt of smugglers and ‘bandits’. This site is in Malaga province (a narrow tongue of whichextrudes into the Alcornocales), but since it can only be reached through Cadiz province it is bettertreated here.

Several footpaths radiate into the surroundingwoodland (see noticeboard and leaflets fordetails). You can walk up to Aljibe the highestpeak in the area (a steep 7km walk) and evenacross to El Picacho (20 km). The

woods here have a different, ‘softer’character than in the El Picacho area. (Anew noticeboard here suggests thatOrphean & Subalpine Warbler, and IberianGrey Shrike may be found here – all scarcebreeding species in nearby Cadiz provinceother than in the Grazalema area althoughI’ve not seen them here myself).

This is a possible location for White-rumpedSwift although, again, I’ve not seen themhere personally although Red-rumpedSwallows are present. Scops Owl –evidently a scarce bird in the province – havebeen heard calling here.

There are several other walks/cycle routesalong the A 8201/C3331 which deserve

closer inspection (not all of which are noted here). On the Malaga-Cadiz border there areseveral cycle routes (b) which explore the woodlands in the area. The road follows the RioHozgarganta down towards Jimena. The river can be glimpsed along the route and at severalsites viewed for Grey Wagtail and other species (Dipper is a rare visitor to this stream). About6km south of the border (and a similar distance from Jimena) there’s a 14km walk (c) throughwoods to Laja Alta (the nearer peak, c5km). Cueva de la Laja here has some ancient ‘rock art’to add a little culture to the walk. A little further on there’s also a pleasant picinic site with pathsdown to the stream. Another 3km closer to Jimena there’s a circular cycle track that plungesdown the river and loops round back to where it started (this can also be accessed nearer thetown). There’s an excellent mirador at (d) which has views towards Jimena de la Frontera andbeyond (see E6).

Access – See also E5 Approach either from the A2304 from Alcala/Ubrique (which assumed in thenotes above) or from the south via Jimena de la Frontera. The A2304 is narrow and twisting, but theCA8201/C3331 is rather better and has a few more places to pull off the road

E 3 – *** Grazalema

Why visit? – THE place for raptors (esp. Bonelli’s Eagle), Black Wheatear, Rock Sparrow,etc. plus superb scenery.

é - most footpaths unsuitable but many species can be seen along roadside. Several picnicsites with benches etc

Grazalema is a superb Natural Park which is divided between the provinces of Cadiz and Malaga(c75%/c25% respectively). It is roughly defined by the A373 to the west, the Algeciras-Ronda railwayline to the south-east and the A374/A384/CA8102 to the north. Being an area of limestone hills andmountains it looks, and feels, very different to the nearby Alcornocales. It is an orchid hunter’sparadise and doesn’t do too badly for birds either!

Almost anywhere in this large park can hold good birds so simply stop wherever the habitat looksright for the target species. There are numerous ‘senderos’ – too many to be listed in their entirety -that allow exploration of the area; several good guide books/maps showing footpaths are available.Geo/Estel publishes the largest scale map (1:25,000), but the text in the guidebook is in garbledEnglish so you may prefer the larger scale (1:40,000) map by Penbetica which is accompanied by agood English guidebook.

A good trilingual (Spanish/English/German) booklet with maps on the park’s birds is also available. Agood leaflet on the area is also available here (see also http://adsise.com/).

This mountainous area is better than Alcornocales for a number of species. The exposed limestonerocks form a distinctive ‘rockscape’ more attractive to for species such as Black Redstart, BlackWheatear, Rock Sparrow and, in winter, Alpine Accentor. It is also better for Bonelli’s and GoldenEagles. A few (23) Spanish Imperial Eagles and a similar number of Black Vultures (increasing?)occur plus the occasional Ruppell’s Vulture and Long-legged Buzzard. All of which make this asuperb place for the raptor hunter. This large and fascinating area is best approached via a variety of linked itineraries which areoutlined in the notes that follow.

E 3.1 - * El Bosque - Grazalema

Why visit? – Golden Oriole, Grey Wagtail etc..

é - access should be possible at Jardin Botanico – several good lay-bys en route

The 20 km drive between El Bosque to Grazalema is one of the most scenic in theprovince with views from the mirador near Grazalema (c) stretching across to Cadiz andthe Atlantic almost 90 km away to the west. However, much of the route is wooded so it’snot the best approach if you’re looking for the more specialised ‘rockscape’ species (BlackWheatear, rock thrushes, etc). The Jardin Botanico (a) in El Bosque is at the far end of acobbled road which starts behind Las Truchas hotel (on the left as you enter the villagefrom the east). It has a display of local plants, but is also reputed to be the best place tosee the scarce and local Wryneck in the area. The track, shaded by the rare endemicPinaspar pines, continues for c4km to Benamahoma. Look along the river for GoldenOriole, Grey Wagtail, etc. Roughly 6km from Benamahoma towards Grazalema (anotherc8km further on) a steep path climbs the 4km up to El Torreon (1648m) which has AlpineAccentor and, of course, fabulous views! As already noted the mirador (c) just before youreach Grazalema has superb views, but it is also the starting point for several ‘senderos’.A little distance along the CA 9104 another sendero (d) heads east but access is limited toprotect the Pinaspar pine forest (native only to Grazalema and Sierra de las Nieves).Permission must be sought in the park offices (in the village) to walk this route.

Access: The area can be quite busy on summer weekends so try to visit at quieter times

E 3.2 - ** Ubrique – Grazalema Road (A 2302) Why visit? – A good route for picking up Iberian Grey Shrike, Black Wheatear

& Bonelli’s Eagle

é - Good viewing along road (esp. b); most paths/tracks unsuitable

There are various stopping points (but never enough!) on the Ubrique - Grazalema roadwhere Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, Crag Martin, etc. can be seen. Unfortunatelythere are few places to stop as you drive out of Ubrique (a) on the A2302, but if you canpull over look out forThekla Lark, Black and Black-eared Wheatear and Orphean Warbler. Several pathsstart atBenaocaz (b) – Sendero Salto del Cabrero (9km) north from the A 2302 just west of thevillage is one of the best. Although a linear path it can be combined with other tracks toform a loop. It crosses good limestone areas – typical habitat for Black Wheatear, Rock

Bunting, etc and, perhaps, a chance of the scarce Common Rock Thrush (plus orchidsin spring). The mirador at Cintillo (c), a few km east of Benaocaz, is unmissable as it ison a very sharp hairpin bend. It offers the car bound birder a chance to see BlackWheatear, Rock Bunting, Firecrest, Chough and, with luck Egyptian Vulture,Bonelli’s or Golden Eagle.

If you want a walk, thepicnic site below themirador here offersseveral options. Theroad to Villaluengo delRosario can beinteresting – an obviousstopping place on thesouthern side of theroad just west of thevillage (d). This is goodfor Thekla Lark andmay also have IberianGrey Shrike and RockSparrow. Theenergetic can take thewalk to Llanos delRepubilicano. Severalpaths climb up from theA 2302 to the limestonebulk of the limestone

sierra. This is fairly ‘serious’ walking and not to be undertaken lightly, but the high limestone‘pavements’ are where you might find the scarce

Common Rock Thrush and up in the higher areas Alpine Accentor (usuallya winter visitor here) has been found in the summer….

Finally the area around the junction of the A372/A2302 (e) can be searched profitably; it’sa regular spot for Iberian Grey Shrike and Iberian Green Woodpecker. Should youwant to explore this area more fully a good sendero runs off the A 372 along the stream.Like Benaocaz, Grazalema is a hub for many walking routes (see introduction) which begto be explored if you have the time/energy. However, for the more indolent carefulscanning of the numerous swifts over the village may just result in a sighting of White-rumped Swift (try the mirador at Plaza de Asomadores). Note that in 2010 an adultRuppell’s Vulture spent the summer around Grazalema and beyond towards Ronda.

Access – This route assumes an approach from Ubrique, but can equally well be done in theopposite direction. Ubrique has narrow poorly signposted streets – approaching from the southfollow what signs there are for El Bosque then, as you climb out of the town go right (at a petrolstation) onto the A2302 to climb up a narrow twisting road. Then follow the A2302 towardsGrazalema.

E 3.3 - ** Grazalema – Puerto de Palomas – Zahara – Grazalema Circuit

Why visit? – An excellent circular route with several chances of White-rumped Swift, plus all ‘rockscape’species; wonderful scenery

é - good viewpoints along roads – car park at (b) sometimes has Alpine Accentor in winter; paths/tracks generally unsuitable for wheelchairs

Even before you reach Grazalema look out for birds – as noted in E3.2 the fields as youapproach the village may hold Iberian Grey Shrike and rocky field closer still attractBlack Wheatear. Grazalema is an attractive village (see introduction to the area) andmany footpaths originate here – one example is the path up to the Sierra del Endrinal (b)off the A 372 as you leave the village westwards. Blue Rockthrush, Cirl Bunting and,with luck, Rock Sparrow can be seen along the lower reaches of this path. However, for

the less energetic a circuit of the area by car allows you to see most species andinvestigate a greater range of habitats. The most obvious route is to leave the villagewestwards on the A372 (to El Bosque) but then turning right for Zahara de la Sierra(14km) on the CA9104. (If arriving from El Bosque this turning on the left after just over17km). Various walks head off this road to the famous Pinsapar (an endemic pine) woods,but access is restricted (esp. in summer and permission is needed from the parkauthorities). The highpoint here is the Puerto de Palomas (c) over the Sierra deZafalgar. A circular 4km walk ( Subida al Cerro Corros) from a small car park at the top ofthe pass runs up the ridge to the east to Mointe Prieto is open at all times. AlpineAccentor sometimes occur by the road at the Puerto, but try walking this route if they’renot present. This is also a good site for Chough and tame Rock Buntings. If nothingelse this route is worth it for the amazingly serpentine road that drops down to Zahara!The village of Zaraha de la Sierra is one of the most picturesque in Spain and the walk upto the castle worth the effort. It also has many good restaurants.

A minor road (A2300) creeps along the southern side of the embalse – check out the short lane (d)to a campsite at the end of a small bay here as the ever elusive Rufous Bushchat has been

reported in this area. A minor road a little further on connects with the CA 9173 (e); the habitat looksequally good for bushchat road so is another area worthy of further exploration. The impressivecrags along theCA 9173 are home to several pairs of Eagle Owl which can be heard in the evenings,but you’d be very lucky to see them. White-rumped Swift is one of the area’s specialities. In addition to Grazalema it can be seen overthe charming village of Prado del Rey (off to the NW along the MA8102). However another site is thesouth-eastern tip of Embalse de Zahara (f). As you continue along the A2300 you cross a bridge (justbefore the turning onto the CA9173) and c720m further on turn right (on a sharp bend) onto a trackdown to the reservoir which takes you down to an old bridge and the edge of the reservoir. White-rumped Swifts (plus Common, Pallid and Alpine) come here to hawk around and drink. A secondsite for White-rumped Swifts is off the MA 8403 (f). Exit the A374 onto the MA8403 at km 107(opposite the Venta La Vega). From this junction drive for 2.5km until you reach a culvert protectedby crash barriers (4.5km from Montejaque). Park near (but not blocking) the stonework & iron gateshere and take the track on your right on foot. Follow the right fork until you reach a small lake. Infavourable conditions White-rumped Swifts (plus Common, Pallid and Alpine) hawk over anddrink from this lake. The surrounding woodland has Hawfinch, Iberian Green Woodpecker, IberianChiffchaff, Bonelli’s, Subalpine and Orphean Warblers.

Access – This is a terrific circular route with a good chance of some special birds. Check locally about accessalong footpaths as some are restricted. Grazalema has been voted the ‘most attractive village’ in Andalucia soit can be very busy on summer weekends so avoid if possible

E 3.4 - ** Mirador Mojon de Vibora - Cortes de la Frontera Area Malaga – 16km

Why visit? – Another great drive with all expected woodland species; excellent forraptors with a new feeding station for vultures en route.

é - vulture feeding station (d) wheelchair friendly, good gravel track at (b), other paths poor; good viewpoints along roads

The starting point for this 16 km section is the Mirador Mojon de Vibora (a) close to thejunction of the A373/A2304. The mirador has fabulous views across to Grazalema and thenearby venta’s car park is often a good place to catch up with an obliging Thekla Lark.(The venta’s not a bad lunch stop either!).

Take the A373 towards Cortes de la Frontera, but pull off after only c3 km (c 13km westfrom Cortes) onto a drivable gravel track (b). This is the GR7 long distance path whichultimately takes you all the way to Athens! The isolated rocky peak (Peñon del Berrueco)above the road here is a good place to look for Ibex. This track takes you throughwoodlands with all the typical birds of the area – Great-spotted and Iberian GreenWoodpecker, Woodlark, Wren, Robin, Chaffinch, Crested Tit, Mistle Thrush, IberianChiffchaff, etc (plus Large Tortoiseshell Butterfly). Look out too for Orphean Warbler inthe open wild olive scrub here.

Continuing towards Cortes de laFrontera at c11.5 km from your startingpoint a narrow metalled road (c) onyour right plunges down into the valleytowards Estacion de Colmenar (c4.5km from Cortes). This detour takes youthrough open woodland to Colmenarand Gaucin beyond. All the speciesmentioned previously may be foundalong this very scenic road. In autumnmigrating raptors often follow the ridgehere westwards towards Tarifa – on theright day seeing 1,000+ HoneyBuzzards pass over in 30 minutes ispossible.

In February 2011 a vulture feedingstation (d – see map 53) complete with a public viewpoint, was established here (signposted‘Observatorio de Aves’). Food is put out regularly and there is a hide for the use ofphotographers in the compound. This is available for 50€ (one person 40€ each for two – fordetails contact (in Spanish) rondamountains@gmail.com. You are met early in the day by 'Jose'

at the Venta los Monteros in Cortes de la Frontera. Note – if your Spanish isn't up to it pleasecontact me so that I can pass you on to a bilingual intermediary. In addition to the expectedraptors the area also attracts passerines feeding on the maggots! (NB – if heading on throughColmenar towards the Ronda/Jimena road look out for another new facility - a watchpoint formigrating birds – at “Ventorrillo de las Corchas”, Benarrabá). Back on the A373, as you head towards Cortes de la Frontera, you pass through a beautifulwooded landscape and stopping at every possible opportunity is tempting and hard to resist.This can be worth while as several Spanish Imperial Eagle (as well as Golden Eagle) havebeen seen along this road in recent years. Two or three Black Vultures have summered inrecent years and Ruppell’s have occurred (although this species seems to wonder around thisarea widely). Navigating through Cortes and onto the MA8401 park behind the school (the lastbuilding in the village) to take the steep path into the mountains (d). This eventually links withthe Llanos de Libar (E4). Towards the top of this path where the vegetation thins out look (andlisten) for Orphean Warbler (check also for Subalpine).

Beyond Cortes de la Frontera are the villages of Benaojan (with a 24-hour petrol station) andMontejaque (16.8km) . The latter village is the starting point for the superb Llanos de Libar (seeNW 3).

Access – This is a simple route with plenty of places to stop and scan for birds and to option of some good walks. However, the road is narrow and twisting so it may take longer than you think.

E 4 – *** Montejaque & Llanos de Libar Malaga E 4.1 – *** Benaojan & Montejaque Area Malaga Why visit? – A good quick alternative ti the Llanos de Libar

é - good viewpoints along roads. Accessible (but take care).

The charming mountain village of Montejaque can be approached from three directions –each with its own distractions.Arriving from the south via theMA8401 (see NW 2.4) you passmuch interesting habitat but aboveall the fascinating Cueva de laPileta. Deep in this cave are somefine ancient cave paintings – wellworth forgoing a few birds to see.This approach passes through somespectacular scenery and habitats.Look out for Black Wheatear, BlueRockthursh and passing raptors(Bonelli’s Eagle is quite possible)en route (a). The second approachvia the MA 7401 off the A374(14.5km from junction of A367/A376in Ronda) is, perhaps, the leastinteresting. A footpath (b) betweenthe two stations and along the RioGuadario may be worth exploring forwoodland species. However, a quickstop at Cueva del Gato ( – anobvious rift in the cliff face (c) abovethe trainline should get most likelyspecies. A path runs down to theriver (listen for Golden Oriole here)and over the railway to the largeopening of the cave. The trees heremay hold Olivaceous Warbler.Here too both Crag Martins andAlpine Swift can shoot past at very

close range. (The impatient can also see these birds, though usually less well, from the carpark). Continuing towards Montejaque after another kilometre (or 3.4 km from the A3740) you’reroughly halfway to Montejaque, but pull off onto an open area to the right. Explore steepspath running down to an old dam and theCueva del Hundidero (another massive gash in a cliff face). Walk across the dam andexplore the area as it is a good for all ‘rockscape’ birds and a variety of orchids. Squeezingthrough the narrow gorge (take care!), you eventually reach Montejaque (although you mayhave to resist investigating a track running off to the right as you approach Montejaque (e)which explores good habitat (6.1km)

E 4.2 – *** Llanos de Libar Malaga

Why visit? – Quite simply, it’s a gem! All the ‘rockscape’ species are present, it’s the bestplace for picking up Bonelli’s Eagle and the scenery is stunning.

- - good viewpoints along roads; rough track along Llanos de Libar makes good sites forBlack Wheatear etc accessible (but take care).

NOTE – As of 2014 the authorities have restricted car access along the valleyto 'authorised vehicles only' between 1st June and 15th October - apparently toreduce the risk of fire. It will continue to be possible to walk along the valleyand, presumably, to do so in winter/spring.

Of all the places I’ve taken visitors who’ve stayed with me in Alcala, this is consistently thearea that has most impressed them. Many thanks to Peter Jones (seewww.spanishbirds.com ) for showing me this superb valley. It follows on from the previousitinerary although the temptation to go straight to the valley can be hard to resist.

Arriving from Grazalema the narrow concretevillage road – Ave de Europa - for the Llanos deLibar (a) is an easy right-hand turn just as youreach the first houses. If in doubt look for the“Refugio de Libar” sign. (Arriving from theopposite direction it’s an easily missed and veryacute lefthander – lookout for a white wall andrubbish/recycling bins on the left). This roadlooks an unlikely route, but after c350m anunsignposted and easily missed sharp right up agravelled incline takes you onto the Llanos Libartrack - see upper map. Approximate distancesalong the valley have been given from this point.[NB – if the road along the valley is closedcontinue along the Ave de Europa and park at thetop of the village. It's c4km walk from here up to(e) during which should get you most of the 'key'species here. However, remember that the walkhas little shade & can get very hot]. Like all graveltracks this one can need careful negotiation, butis fine with suitable caution. About 500m alongthis track there’s a building (previously white nowstone clad) on the left (b - on both maps). Stophere and patiently scan the cliffs – if there’sanywhere that Bonelli’s Eagle can be said to bea ‘banker’ it’s here. Often it’s the shadow ripplingalong the cliff face that alerts you to an incomingbird. Both Rock Bunting and MelodiousWarbler can show well here and I’ve heardGolden Oriole and Wryneck from this point.About 400m further on (and just past a secondtrack coming up from the village) there’s a large

stony field (b) and, a little further up, a small roadside pool. The field may have bothCommon and Black-eared Wheatear, Blue and, occasionally, Common Rockthrush andthe pool sucks in thirsty birds. Continuing uphill you come to a rocky ‘saddle’ (c2.6km) whichnever disappoints (c). Check here, and elsewhere along the valley, for raptors –Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Peregrine,Egyptian Vultures, etc., etc. Check large vulturescarefully as in recent years the odd Black Vulture has turned up here. This a great spot forBlack Redstart, Black-eared and Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting and Rock Sparrow (listenfor a sparrow with a bad cold!) – and Lesser Kestrel in its ‘natural habitat’. In late autumn andwinter this is the spot for Alpine Accentor and Ring Ousel. Go uphill another 100m or so towhere the round bends to the right by an isolated tree (d). If you haven’t heard them already,listen here for Orphean Warbler. Dartford Warbler hide in the scrub as does SpectacledWarbler, but Subalpine Warbler can be found on the wooded hillside. (For the energetic afootpath threads it’s way for 4km up to the Pico Ventana 1299m above this spot). As youcontinue along the track past this point the rocks, surprisingly, give way to a large flat field. Atthe far side of this area go through the gate and on into the oak woodland (e). These openwoods have Mistle Thrush, Jay, Common Redstart, Bonelli’s Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaffand Subalpine Warbler. Continue until the woods thin out (8.8km) and park by old irongates(f). The open grassy area beyond has Iberian Grey Shrike and listen for Chough. (Onceagain for the energetic there’s a 5km path up to Cara del Tunio 1316m). The path (g)continues from here to Cortes de la Frontera but is closed to vehicles.

This is an unmissable site where surprises are always possible, Long-legged Buzzard hasbeen seen in the valley, there are several records in recent winters of Wallcreeper andRuppells Vulture has summered in the park.

Access – As long as you take care access to Llanos de Libar is generally straight forward, but use extracare after heavy rains (esp. on the ‘uphill section’ just after you enter the woods where the track is quicklydegraded). Take great care on the path to Cueva del Hundidero. The walks mentioned are steep andshould be tackled with care (see locally available booklets).

E 5 – * Peñon de Zaframagón

Why visit? – A good walk to a magnificent landlocked ‘mini-Gibraltar’: Griffon, EgyptianVultures & Bonelli’s Eagle plus Olivaceous Warbler in the valley .

é - the Via Verde is flat and level, but it’s a long way & some sections the track is rough.

The Via Verde follows the route ofan old railway line through scrubcovered hills along the border ofSeville and Cadiz province. Oneconvenient place to pick up thislong distance path is at an oldstation which is located on a verysharp bendjust south of Coripe (a).You can hire bikes here to cycle the5.5 km to a Interpretive Centre (b)devoted to the large GriffonVulture colony (inc. CCTV of thebirds) on the Peñón deZaframagón. This massive rockyprominence (a few km west ofOlvera) looms over the old track. Italso has breeding Bonelli’s Eagleand Egyptian Vulture (which thestaff here sometimes call

Quebrantahuesos – Lammergier – which does not occur here) The valley running north of the ViaVerde also has Olivaceous Warbler. (NB –the Spanish Atlas shows an isolated report of Azure-wingedMagpie in Seville province c10km north of Peñón de Zaframagón –over 60km outside the normal

range of this species. It may be an anomaly but it may be worth bearing in mind. Alternatively youcan approach closer to the Peñón via the CA 9101 – follow a track on a sharp bend (c3km from the

A 384) for c4km to the Via Verde. From here the Interpretive Centre is c2km (and good views ofthe crags slightly less).

Access: Take the A8126/A8127 north off the AA384 (the junction is just over 3km west ofAlgodonales). Park at Coripe station (c15km) from which it’s a pleasantly flat 5.6km walk tooverlook the Peñon (bikes can be hired at the old station which also houses a good venta andB&B) Alternatively take the CA 9101 to the track as noted above (Note than not all tracks areshown on the map).

E 6 - ** Jimena de la Frontera - South

Why visit? – A chance of White-rumped Swift and Rufous Bushchat.

é - as with most mountain roads birds can be seen from laybys etc., but tracks/paths poor.

fantastic drive through the Alcornocales (see NW 1.3) takes you to the superbly sited Jimena(although, depending on where you start, it may well be quicker to approach the area via thecoastal motorway north of La Linea). The castle (a) at Jimena is a good viewpoint and said to be agood site for the rare Whiterumped Swift (which, on my relatively few visits, I’ve yet to see). CragMartins, Blue Rock Thrush, Lesser Kestrels, etc. are usually easy to find.

There are several good walks along the Rio Hozgarganta from the village for, amongst other things,Goldenn Oriole. The 12km road up to the TV aerials (b) is now a good tarmac road (contra thelatest edition of Garcia & Paterson), but it is still very narrow with abrupt ditches making passingother vehicles ('cork' lorries use this road regularly) difficult at times – take great care. The routetakes you through a wide range of habitats (open hill tops, rocky area, deciduous riverine wood andopen pine forest. land, through pine woods, pasture and open mountain tops). On a clear day,views across to Grazalema, Vejer and, above all, Africa, are superb. When raptors are approachingfrom the east in the autumn this can be an excellent watchpoint and is another site where White-rumped Swift has been reported

The area between the CA8200 and A405 south of Jimena is a good area for Short-toed Lark,Tawny Pipit and RufousBushchat. A recentlyregraded track, the Vegadel Guadiaro, whichconnects the A 405 withthe CA 8200, passesthrough some excellenthabitats. A cactus hedge(c) just beyondMarchenilla has RufousBushchat, but as alwaysthis species can be veryelusive.

Continue up to the browof the hill – the fields hereare particularly good forTawny Pipit and Short-toed Lark. As the roaddrops down towards theCA 8200 check the drystream bed below to theleft for Rufous Bushchat(c3.5 km fromMarchenilla). This species

also sometimes sings from the wires on the right and is found around the small bridge at the baseof the hill (c0.5 km). The valley can also be good for passing migrants, raptors, etc and checksparrows for Spanish Sparrow.

At the crossroads go straight on and pull off just beyond the bridge over the Rio Guadiaro (c) –check the riverine vegetation for Olivaceous Warbler and Spanish Sparrow. The minor roadbeyond the bridge follows the river downstream past some good places to pull off and investigate.

Back on the A 405, opposite the turning to Marchenilla and the Vega del Guadiaro, an old muletrack heads down to a ford which can be good for Golden Oriole. (Ultimately, this old routeconnects with Jimena and should make an interesting walk)

Access:Jimena and the castle are well signposted as are the walks from the village. For (b) go through thetwo roundabouts as you drive uphill into the village and turn left along the Pasada de Alcala, past the GuardiaCivil station and down to the river. The Marchenilla turning is by a large “9km Ruta de los Almoravides” sign.Previously parts of this track were undrivable but was repaired in 2014.

E 7 - ** Castillo de Castellar

Why visit? – Stunning views and a chance of White-rumped Swift.

é - the bridge (b) is accessible, good views from the Castillo (d – Blue Rock Thrush, swifts, etc)

Castillo de Castellar is a well preserved walled village in a spectacular position with superb views.It has a similar range of species as Jimena (inc. White-rumped Swift). Take the CA9201 north offthe A405. As you drive up stop and check the open woodlands for all the usual woodland species(inc. Orphean Warbler). Places to pull off are few, but after c2.5 km there a lay-by on the right (a)and a short path into the woods. After 4.9km there’s a turning on the left near a small venta. Stophere and walk down to look over the old bridge (b) – this is a good site for Monarch butterflies.Continue along the road until it forks. Although this turning sports a ‘no entry’ sign, apparently it’sOK to drive as further long and after (1.5 km) there’s a lay-by (c) and a viewpoint across thereservoir to the Castillo. Rubbish bins and a mirador here seem confirm that it’s OK to ignore thesign!). These woods here are good for Bonelli’s Warbler, Golden Oriole etc. (plusTwo-tailed Pasha). There’s also a circular (7km) walk through the woods from the end of this track

Continue up to the castle(another 3.6 km) stoppingwhere you can (this areareputedly has RufousBushchat, but I've heard ofno reports in recent years).

The last stretch up to thecastle(d) is very narrow andtwisting with limited so youmight like to use thedesignated car park(signposted to the left) andwalking up. The castle hasLesser Kestrel, PallidSwift, often obliging BlueRockthrush, Pallid Swiftand occasionally White-rumped Swift. This is also agood site for watchingpassing raptors. A numberof footpaths explore this area– see local leaflets.

On the far side of Castellarde la Frontera a track (e) leads through orchards, across a cattle grid to an open grassy areawhich can be good for pipits, larks and finches.

Access: The quickest, but longer, route is to drop down to the coast on the motorway and then head backnorth rather than cut directly over the mountains. However, if you want explore the Alcornocales and are nottoo worried about when you arrive then the follow the A 2304 & CA 8201/C 3331 through the park to the

Jimena and then along the A 369 to Castellar. (NB the "road" shown on some maps entering Castillo from thenorth is a rough track suitable only for 4x4s).

E 8 - * Sotogrande

Why visit? – Passage birds & seawatching and to challenge my obvious bias!

é - Sandy, but there are boardwalks etc.

Although small, this is one of the very few wetlands on Spain’s southern Mediterranean coast. As aresult this the mouth of the Rio Guadiaro seems to ‘punch above its weight’ and attract more speciesthan might be expected. On the down side, all roads into this vast upmarket housing estate havegates manned by security personnel, there’s a vast marina and much of what land hasn’t beencovered by plush villas has been “green’d and bunker’d” for the golfing fraternity – all things I findsomewhat depressing. I’m told too that the reserve (b) isn’t what it used to be.

It is, at least, well signposted off the motorway. Take the road into the estate and head along thePaseo del Parque. Go left towards the port on Puerto Calle de Jamie El Conquistador. Look out forsigns to the small reserve (on the seaward side), park and explore the area (there’s a hide &boardwalk). Continue through the unmitigatedly dreadful Puerto Sotogrande towards the A7 checkthe Laguna de las Camelias (c) on the right – this looks a good area for holding the odd migrant andI’m told that it is also a good for passing waders, ducks etc. Seabirds can also be seen off shore(Cory’s, Balearic and presumably Yelkouan Shearwater (?). Wetland birds include PurpleGallinule.

Apparently Rufous Bushchat used to befound here, but they seem to have gone.Also present are Red-rumped Swallow,Red-necked Nightjar, Tawny Pipit andScops Owl. Bluethroat & Penduline Titwinter See Garcia et al for details. (Note:although Ortolan Bunting is said to occur inthe summer, the recent Spanish bird atlasdoesn’t feature this species here or anywhereclose by).

By following the coast south ofSotogrande towards Alcaidesa, after c1.5km you reach some small pools aroundthe mouth of the Rio Guadalquiton (d).These apparently seasonal poolstemporary pools and sandpits can beattractive to waders when the conditionsare right and the coastal scrub is likely tobe good for migrants in spring andautumn. The lagoon where the riverreaches the sea is probably a good placeto look for gulls (inc. Audouin's) andterns. Whilst shearwaters should bevisible from Punta Mala. Inland there's anarea of cork oaks – evidently this is theonly place where this habitat reached theMediterranean. Access can also bereached via tracks (f) from Alcaidesa (justoff the map to the south). Note: the areais well watched by a local birdwatcherwho rates it highly …..

Access: If you’re in a camper van or towing a caravan security guards may refuse entry but otherwise thereshould be no problem. Access from Alcaidesa should be fine once you locate the track to Punta Mala.

E 9 - * Mirador El Higueron & the La Linea Area

Why visit? – Passage raptors, migrants & different habitats nearGibraltar

é - . Mirador and park easily accessed

When there are strong westerlies then Mirador El Higueron (a), conveniently accessible off the A 383 in eitherdirection, can be excellent for broad winged migrants – expect all the usual raptors and both storks. Aconvenient option for those coming from Malaga

By following the minor road along the coast towards SantaMargarita you eventually reach a tiny marsh -Desembocadura del Arroyo del Negro (b). Elsewhere thismarsh would be too small to be of any significance, but, asthe nearest marsh to Gibraltar (c5.5 km), it can be worth avisit by those staying there who want to boost their specieslist. Along with Moorhen and Mallard passage gives you achance of seeing a range of herons (Little Egret, Grey,Squacco & Purple Heron and Little Bittern) andKingfisher plus a few waders. In winter the area may haveSpanish Sparrow too. Wettish areas of scrub along the twostreams here may also be worth a look. The new fishing porten route (Puerto La Atunara) may be worth checking forgulls.

A third, somewhat speculative site, may also be worthchecking – Sierra Carbonera (c) – a long ridge that runsnorth--south just to the west of Mirador El Higueron.There's a track running along the ridge and up to disusedmilitary buildings which in the past would have been arestricted area. I've not explored the area, but the wealth ofphotos online of these buildings and widespread de-militarisation elsewhere suggest the area is now open to thepublic (although vehicular access/state of the track may beuncertain). If easily accessible, then it should be excellentfor migrant raptors, storks, swifts etc. Check locally for thelatest information.

Finally a fourth site – Parque Prinicess Sofía (d) – which isopposite the border can hold a few migrants and may beworth a quick look if you've time to spare en route to or fromGibraltar (apparently 60+ species have been recorded here).

Access: Mirador El Higueron is well sign posted off the A 383 (just less than 2 km south of the junction with theA 7) Desembocadura del Arroyo del Negro can be reached by following the coastal road and can be exploredvia paths down to the beach. (if you're arriving on foot from Gibraltar check buses to Puerto La Atunara andwalk 1.5 km along the beach or grab a taxi asking for Playa El Burgo). For Sierra Carbonera as you enter theoutskirts of La Linea along the CA 34 at a roundabout head towards the 'Cementerio' then after c300m go rightat a new roundabout through a new industrial estate and go left at another new roundabout (c550m) and followthe road until the tarmac runs out (c 500m ). From here a dirt track loops up onto the Sierra – check access.The palm lined Parque Prinicess Sofía is obvious opposite the border with Gibraltar

Appendix 1 – Sites beyond Cadiz Province (Seville, Malaga & Gibraltar)

Introduction:

Although most key species can be seen in Cadiz Province, some are easier to see (if at all)at sites in bordering provinces. Accordingly I have added some notes on sites not too far over the border of the province. Some are also relatively close to Seville or Malaga airportsso birdwatchers flying into the area have the option of exploring them en route to destinations elsewhere. Some sites have particularly sought after species.

Seville Province has Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Great Bustard (both rarities in Cadiz) and Roller (a scarce migrant there) – the Osuna area has all three and is only c1 hour from Seville airport. Also in Seville, Brazo del Este is only c40 minutes from the airport (and not far off the route south) is good for more species which are difficult to find elsewhere (e.g. Savi's Warbler, more rarely Baillon's Crake and introduced African species like Black-headed Weaver).

Malaga Province has far less of interest to offer for those heading for Cadiz Province. However, since birdwatchers often fly into Malaga, I have added two sites that are convenient to visit en route – one near the airport and the other close to the Cadiz border. Ihave not included Laguna de Fuente Piedra which is c1hr 20 mins. from Seville airport and c1hr from Malaga. It is a regular site for Lesser Flamingo (which has bred). When present they are normally seen from near the large visitors' centre which has directions, leaflets, etc about the reserve which would make any description here superfluous.

Gibraltar is treated in this appendix since it is geopolitically neither in Cadiz nor in Spain and also because I'm not very familiar with the place. It is covered for completeness, but check in Garcia & Paterson for details.

Sites which are partly in Seville province are treated in the main section: Marismas de Casablanca (NW4), Laguna de los Tollos (NW 5) & Penon de Zaframagon (E 5). However, note that, although wholly in Seville province, Lagunas de Lebrija (NW 7) are covered in the main section since they're only c3 km over the border from Lagunas de Espera. Similarly sites in the Alcornocales & Grazalema which are just over the border in Malaga Province are treated in the main section: Sauceda (E2.3) which can only be reached via Cadiz province and Llanos de Libar (E4) which is a natural progression from sites in Cadiz. Note, however, that although I regularly visit Osuna /Lantejuela and Lebrija, my visits to elsewhere in Seville are less frequent so notes on these areas are updated less often. The same appliesto sites in Malaga (other than those in Alcornocales & Grazalema Natural Parks) and Gibraltar. Feedback on all of these sites would be particularly appreciated.

i) Seville Province

If flying into Seville Airportseveral of these sites canmake a convenient detouren route to Cadiz province.A minor, but newly upgradedand very good road,connects Osuna with theGrazalema area. A newmotorway is currently underconstruction a few km eastof Seville airport which willavoid Seville’s busy ringroad making the journey

south less tiresome. Ultimately it will provide a much faster route over the Guadalquivir andinto the Coto Donaña.

See also comments introduction to this section.

SV 1 – * Lebrija Area

Why visit? – Another site for the adventurously minded ….. with an outside chance of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse

é - paths unsuitable, but you can view over much of the area from the track

The drive along the Guadalquivir (d, e & g) can hardly be claimed to explore any primary birdingsites (although (g) has turned up rarities), but it's a very pleasant drive with a good mix of birds,some great views and links with a visit to NW.2. It’s also a good alternative route to back from Brazodel Este (SV 2) further north (which, if visiting that area is your aim, is better accessed via themotorway). There have also been reports of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse nearby (see a & b) here (seealso NW 2.6). One area that looks suitable for this species off the A471 here extends for just over2km along the route approximately around the 34 km post (a). As you reach this area (c600m fromthe last exit for Trebujena) there’s a small track on you left and another c2.5 km further along at theend of the area (opposite a light industrial estate); unfortunately the newly improved A471 has fewplaces to safely pull off and can be busy with fast moving traffic pulling off onto these tracks is thebest option. A rough track parallel to the main road should allow safe viewing on foot. This stretchcan be good for Pratincoles, Gull-billed Tern and Flamingo (when wet). Look out for a smallbridge across the agricultural canal (c4km from Trebujena turning, c600m from exit for Lebrija) whichconnects to the network of roads/tracks that fan out west and north of Lebrija (b). Indicate well inadvance and take care when turning here as motorists have overtaken me here as I was about toturn presumably assuming that I was signalling to let them get past. (Dangerously, indicating left canbe assumed to be an invitation to overtake!) Turn north-west across the bridge where to the left ontoa good dirt track takes you, after c2km, to a point (c) where you can overlook the same area as from(a) from the north. You can continue along this track as it follows a large drainage ditch until itreaches the Guadalquivir (marked by two white towers). If you turn left along the river in c300m you

reach NW 2.5 (i); turn right toexplore (d, e & g). If,however, you turn right afterleaving the A 471, a goodtarmac one which connectsyou to the track along theGuadalquivir.

The track along theGuadalquivir (d, e & g) is ofvariable quality – for the mostpart it’s a decent tarmac orgood gravel road, butelsewhere it’s potholed. Ihave not fully explored thefinal stretch south into CadizProvince (and to NW 2Sanlucar area) seems lesspotholed than previously andmight pity as this would be agreat route. The shady routealong the Guadalquivir holdsfew surprises (egrets,Squacco & Purple Herons,terns, Pratincole, SpanishSparrow, etc), but makes for avery pleasant drive. At LaSeñuela (e) a small chapel,bedecked with storks nests, is

famously photogenic. Continue along the track for Brazo del Este or alternatively tack the tracksouth (lined with palms) towards Lebrija (f). This links to the new bypass (via a slight lefthand‘dogleg’) which then passes the ‘Balse de Melendo’ (h). This a fairly new reservoir can attract goodnumbers of birds although mainly of the commoner species (e.g. 2009 – 1200 Shoveler [Nov], 4500+Mallard (NovDec], 250+ Red-crested Pochard [Nov], 75 Spoonbill [July]and 1400+ White Stork[Dec]). However, it may be worth a quick look. Finally to the north-east of Lebrija the road runningfrom Marismilla towards the Guadalquivir is flanked by an old channel which can be good forPratincoles, larks, pipits, etc - and possibly sandgrouse. Eventually you reach a channel where youcan turn right for Brazo del Este (SV2) or left to head back along the track beside the Guadalquivir.When you reach the river there’s a small rustic venta and, opposite, a shallow sandy pool (“LagunaVenta la Señuela”) bordering the river (g). Although somewhat unprepossessing in summer 2011 thissite produced American Golden Plover, Pectoral Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint; evidently inthe right conditions it is used as a wader roost, but conditions vary annually.

Access – Take tracks off the A471 from (b) as described. Approaching from the north on the A471take the new ‘bypass’ which is signposted for the industrial estate (poligono). If arriving from theBrazo del Este simply folly tracks/roads bordering the Guadalquivir to (e).

SV 2 - *** Brazo del Este - overview

Why visit? – A good site for raptors, Marbled Duck, all herons, wetland warblers (inc. Savi’s Warbler), Spanish Sparrow & introduced weavers; good record for rarities

é - most birding from a good drivable track

"Where to Watch birds in Donana" by Chiclana & Garzon gives an excellent, detailed account ofthis area. This is a very useful book & youshould have a copy if you plan a visit.However, but it’s a bit vague about howdifferent routes fit together – something I havetried to address here.

Although said by some to be the equal of (orsuperior to) the Coto Donana for birds, thissite seems to divide birders since it is ratherdull scenically with much flat agricultural landand, when the conditions aren’t favourable(i.e. too dry), it may have relatively little wethabitats. However, when it is sufficiently wetto hold waders and ducks it can be superb. Itis especially good for Marbled Teal, Savi’sWarbler, crakes and introduced exotics(Yellow-headed Weaver, Yellow-crownedBishop and Waxbill).

I always arrive from the south, but if headingfor Corta de los Olivillos and the northern partof Brazo del Este it is probably better toapproach via La Mermandal (see the Whereto Watch birds in Doñana ).

Orientation - as you enter the area (a) the rice

paddies can be excellent. For sites (b), (c),

(d) & (e) see below (note that I’ve yet to

explore this areain detail). Site (f) is ‘Laguna

de la Mejorada’ (see SV1 Map 60).

For descriptive purposes I have divided theseinto three sections – ‘the southern marshes’ and ’the northern marshes’ (an entirely arbitrary

division as they pretty much run into one another) and ‘Corta de los Olivillos’. The latter is adistinct area isolated

from the ‘real’ Brazo del Este by a canal. Access – Head through Las Cabezas on the A471 going straight on through a number ofroundabout. As you run downhill continue on the A471 (ignore turning on roundabout for the A371)until almost out of the town where you bear right off the main road towards the motorway & railwaystation. Negotiate a new roundabout by the station and head towards a large silo. Head straight onto the rice depot (see below). I have not yet explored from the north but following signs to Pinzonshould do the trick! (see also SV3)

SV 2.1 – *** The ‘southern’ marshes

Why visit? – A good site for raptors, Marbled Duck, all herons, wetland warblers (inc.Savi’s Warbler), Spanish Sparrow & introduced weavers.

é - most birding from good drivable tracks

After crossing the canal (a) swing left then right passing the rice depot to reach the main track.

The first wet area is at (b) but there are better areas further on.

A small area of marsh soon appears on the right, but your attention is quickly drawn to a largermarshy area on the right (c) – Capitán- formed an old meander. This is good for all expectedmarshland warblers & herons. A little further on the meander lives up to its name by swinging

over to the right hand side of themain track. Follow smaller track(perfectly drivable) towards Pinzon toget good views of this area (d) whichseems particularly good for Savi’sWarbler (although they are quitecommon anywhere along the maintrack). The rough track that followsthe curve of the old river is part of anofficial ‘ornithological cycle route’(see Google Earth) and, whilstunsuitable for motor traffic, theenergetic could profitably follow thisback to the ‘main’ track (at LaMargazuela). In the right conditionsthis area holds many WhiskeredTern, waders and duck.

As you continue along the ‘maintrack’ the marshy arm of the old riverreappears on the right and forms avery nice marsh (e) The tracks hereform a drivable triangle round asuperb area for on your left; this isoften very good for Purple Heron,Whiskered Terns, etc. Havingexhausted the possibilities here,continue a short distance to the nextlarge marshy area (f) - now on yourleft. There’s a small ‘pumping house’on the right. The triangular routeback to the ‘muro’ encloses a superblittle marsh which not only has araucous Whiskered Tern colony, butis also the most reliable spot forSquacco Heron (in case you’ve

missed them so far!) and a good bet for both Spanish Sparrows and Marbled Duck. Thecycle route (g) round a long looping meander may be worth a walk. (I’ve no idea how drivable itis in the later stages). For (h) (i), (j) & (k) see below.

Access – See map & access details above.

SV 2.2 – ** The ‘northern’ marshes – see Map 63 (h) (i), (j) & (k) Why visit? – A good site for raptors, Marbled Duck, all herons, wetland warblers (etc.)

é - most birding from good drivable tracks

After the small “pumping house” (see Map 63 & notes above) there’s something of anornithological hiatus since the marshy arm of the old river swings well away to the west andthere’s a stretch of somewhat dull farmland. This is, and the next site (SV2.2), are areas that Ido not know, but have added for the sake of completeness.

As the ‘main track’ swings right, you bounce down to the left to cross the dry bed of the canal(Caño de la Vera). The track you need to take to visit (h) (i), (j) & (k) runs along the northernlevee of this prominent geographical feature (which eventually reaches Los Palacios). Onediversion worth exploring is to turn left here and to stay on the cycle route. This route soonturns both to the left and to the right; to the left it follows a marshy arm of the river back to the‘pumping house’ and to the right it passes another marshy area before joining the nearby SE685. I have yet to explore the two routes which, may or may not, be drivable.

However, the easiest route, once across the canal bed, is to turn right along the top of thelevee towards Los Palacios. After a little under 2 km (1.78 km if you’re a pedant!) turn leftonto a track run due north (this also marks a change in the orientation of the fields along thistrack which, hitherto, run NW/SE). After 1½ km, the road gets bored with being straight sowiggles the next 2 km to the (thankfully) metalled SE 685.

At the junction with the SE 685 stands a collection of agricultural buildings - the MediterránoAlgodon. It is worth exploring the small wooded area immediately to the north of this junctionas it is a good site for birds which might otherwise be missed – Hoopoe, Golden Oriole,woodland/scrub loving warblers and is said to be one of the best places in the area for Roller.Stay into the evening and you may get Red-necked Nightjar and even a calling Eagle Owl(see Chiclana & Garzon for details). However, marshland addicts will want to turn left towards the river which is reached in about2.5 km and then south along its bank for another 700m to explore Condé Chico - the last armof the Brazo del Este on this itinerary. This walk is good for all marshland species, butparticularly our webbed footed brethren.

Access – See Map 59 & access details above.

SV 2.3 – ** Corta de los Olivillos– see Map 63 (k)

Why visit? – A good site for herons and other wetland species.

é - rough tracks not suitable for wheelchairs, but many birds visible from the road..

To reach this final area head north along the SE 685 towards La Hermandal (unless you’redriving south, in which case you’ve just been there!). Just under 4 km from MediterránoAlgodon (or 1 km from last houses in La Hermandal) turn north-west towards Coria del Rio(which is c6km via ferry cross the Guadalquivir). After 1 km cross the canal and turn left alongits western bank onto a good tarmac road. After following the canal for about 4 km, the roaddeclares its independence by turning sharp right along tree lined avenue, after anotherkilometre the road swings left and, about 2 km from the canal, the tarmac gives way to gravel.

Evidently, this causes the road to loose confidence since it now starts heading back towardsthe canal which it reaches in a further 2½ km. At the canal turn right and afterc1km you reachthe marshy cut-off that isolates the small island (Corta de los Olivillos) at the end of thispeninsular. This area is (again according to the must buy Chiclana & Garzon) has one of thelargest heronries in the Coto. Naturally, is good for all manner of marshland birds. As noted previously a ferry can take you over the Guadalquivir to Coria del Rey and the IslaMinima. Howver, a motorway is underconstruction which will link Coria to the E5 motorway(Seville – Granada) just east of Seville airport forming a huge ‘southern ring road’.

Access: see Map 63 & access details above.

SV3 - *** Laguna de la Mejorada (aka - "Lago de Diego Puerta")

Why visit? – Probably the easiest and most reliable site for Rufous Bushchat and

Olivaceous Warbler. - é - good tracks take you right up to the site.

This lagoon, just north of Los Palacios y Villafranca, is the best know site in the area for both(Western) Olivaceous Warbler and Rufous Bushchat. Most visitors seem to plough through LosPalacios, which can be heavily congested, to reach the laguna, but a better alternative is to skirt thetown on good minor roads and track (see map & ‘Access’). The canal (d & e) often attracts CollaredPratincoles in summer and the market gardens overlooked from the embankment may hold RufousBushchat . It is worth exploring this route along the canal both by going right under the motorwayand towards Utrera as well as the more usual route to the laguna on the left.

After less than 1km along the track the tamarisk clogged lake is obvious on the left – take first thetrack & park in the corner of the lagoon at (f). Alternatively, continue along the track towards (a) andpark wherever there’s space. The lake has egrets, Little Bittern and Squacco Heron. Thetamarisks have Common Waxbills, both Melodious and Olivaceous Warbler. (I had 7+ singingbirds from (f) corner in May 2009).

From (f) walk along the track towards LosPalacios for a short distance to a ‘drive’guarded by iron gates (g)- I’ve found lookingdown this drive the easiest way to find theRufous Bushchats. However, they’ve beenseen at various points here (and across theNIV). They are best located by their song asthey can be elusive (esp. after mid-day).

In winter the laguna hosts a large heronroost. Since this is a small and compact site,it makes a good detour when visiting Brazodel Este (SV 2) and the Seville farmlands (SV5, SV 6 & SV 7).

Access: Approaching from north on the N IV takea track on your right immediately after crossing asmall canal (a on map look for the blue railings ofthe bridge just before a large sign for the exit toLos Palacios). Arriving from the south on E5cross the motorway to head towards Los Palaciosand then take the second exit at the roundabout(b) onto the Avenida de Dolores Ibarruri (firstexit if arriving from the north). Ignore a couple ofright turns, but then go right towards two whitegate posts (c). A narrow lane runs parallel to theE5 until it reaches a small canal. Turn left along a

track following the canal (e) until you reach a shrubbery surround laguna. Turn down the track to (f).[Although this route seems somewhat convoluted, it avoids the centre of Los Palacios which can becongested and gets you into ‘birdable’ areas more quickly].

SV 4 - * Lagunas de Utrera

Why visit? – Although often dry, these lakes are reputed to have many of the species found atbetter known sites (i.e.l Laguna de Medina). If time is short having a look may be an option ifyou want to avoid driving down to Jerez.

é - not ideal - rather distant scope views.

This complex of three lagunas - Lagunas Arjona (a), Alcaparrosa (b) and de Zarracatín (c) - islocated around the village of Palmar de Troya (bizarrely the home of a schismatic Catholicsect whose concrete “cathedral” dominates thevillage). All may be dry in the summer and anumber of surrounding lagoons have disappearedentirely.

Laguna Arjona, the first you reach as you comefrom the N IV (opposite a new petrol station), lookspromising, but is virtually completely hidden in afold in the hills apparently without a connectingpath.

Laguna Alcaparrosa (on the left as you approachPalmar de Troya) is no more than a small reedypool, but may be worth investigation. From apassing car I’ve noted Whiskered Terns and goodnumbers of Coot . You should be able to pull by an entrance near a large building to the south fromwhere you could walk back along the road to investigate (but exercise great caution as the road canbe busy – if possible walk on the inside of the crash barrier).

Laguna de Zarracatín - The only other remaining lake is ten times the size of the others, but hasmuch less vegetation round its perimeter. In winter the lagunas may attract Shoveler, Wigeon andPochard. Whiteheaded Duck, Purple Gallinule, Flamingo, Purple Heron, Whiskered Tern,Gull-billed Tern, etc are said to occur. On my only visit (May 2009) Zarracatín had 330+ Flamingosand Whiskered Tern. Despite the assertion that there are some hides at Zarracatin, I never foundthem (though I had little time) and viewed distantly from the main track. If your Spanish is up to it tryasking at the nearby finca for access.

This area seems little visited presumably as nearby sites (e.g. Brazo del Este) offer more variety, butmay be worth checking out if heading south on the N-IV from Los Palacios. Follow the SE 9015 for4.5 km from La Troya to explore the Embalse Torre del Aguila (possibly the cause of thedisappearance of surrounding lagunas). It has stands of tamarisk which probably hold OlivaceousWarbler and the surrounding habitat may also hold Rufous Bushchat. This area seems little visitedpresumably as nearby sites (e.g. Brazo del Este) offer more variety, but may be worth checking out ifheading south on the N-IV from Los Palacios.

Access – Turn off the A394 onto the SE9015, but almost at once take the first right onto a village road runningsouth parallel with the A394. After c250m turn left (where the tarmac runs out) and then immediately right. Afterc500m the road becomes a dirt track. The laguna is c2km further on your right. Nearby the Embalse Torre del Aguila (possibly the cause of the disappearance of surrounding lagunas) can bereached by continuing through the village on the SE9015 for c4.7 km and then turn left onto the SE9016. Followthis for c2km - after you pass the Torre del Aguila the road turns sharp right to the reservoir.

SV 5 – ** Steppe farmlands of eastern Seville The best area here are the open fields around Osuna and, to the north, the lagunas/steppe around LaLantejuela. This, the OsunaEcija steppe, is one of the last strongholds of Great Bustard in Andalucia with over160 birds present. There are also c1,000 Little Bustards, over 200 Stone-curlew, c20 pairs of Montagu'sHarrier, at least a dozen Black-winged Kite and hundreds of Collared Pratincole. Bonelli's and SpanishImperial Eagle are also present in winter. El Arahal area is less good for bustards, but is reckoned to have apopulation of Rufous Bushchat.

SV 5.1 – ** El Arahal – Marchena - Carmona Triangle

Why visit? The area has Great & Little Bustard, Roller, Olivaceous Warbler & Spanish Sparrow, but is little visited by foreign birders – your chance to explore!

é - all birding from good drivable tracks

This area of farmland is not one that I have fully explored, but has a reputation as being agood area for Rufous Bushchat (as does La Puebla de Cazalla further east off the A 92).Although the Osuna area (SV5.1) seems more reliable, both Great and Little Bustardshave been seen from the A 8100 south from Carmona. However, Collared Pratincoles,Montagu’s Harrier and Lesser Kestrel are more likely. (Note for ‘culture vultures’ Carmonais a ‘must visit Andalucian town). Off the A 380, the SE 5200 heads to El Palomar where I’veseen Roller a number of times. Also on the A380 check the area where the road crossesthe Rio Carbones (c5km north of Marchena) for Olivaceous Warbler and SpanishSparrow. Off the A 634 – Ecija road the A 407 to Fuentes de Andalucia passes throughanother good area for harriers, Rollers and probably bustards. All local towns have apopulation of Lesser Kestrels and Iberian Grey Shrike is widespread. Note that it’spainfully easy to get lost in Arahal and that the motorway is poorly signposted here.Feed back on this area would be much appreciated! NOTE: nearby Ecija is not called the 'frying pan of Spain' for nothing - beware of extremeheat in summer months.

Access – Explore the roads noted above pulling off where you can to check promisinghabitat. Also explore any minor roads/drivable tracks in the area.

SV 5.2 – *** Osuna Farmlands (east of Seville)

Why visit? – The nearest reliable site to Cadiz province for Great Bustard & Black-belliedSandgrouse (very scarce); also Little Bustard, Roller, Olivaceous Warbler & Spanish

Sparrow. é - all birding from good drivable tracks

Osuna is about an hour from Olvera (at the north-eastern corner of Cadiz province via theA384 (CA9107) which can be slow, but the brand new A451 north across to Osuna (via ElSaucejo) is a good fast, near deserted road. From elsewhere in the province it can be a 2hour drive (or more). This makes a great day out birding.

In winter expect bands of both Great and Little Bustard, Griffon Vulture, Red Kite, Black-winged Kite, the odd Black Kite(more of which will arrive in February), Marsh and Hen Harrier, Iberian Grey Shrikes, Calandra Lark, Spanish Sparrow plus, with luck, Black-bellied Sandgrouse. (Note – the best fields for bustards and sandgrouse may change according to season and land use). Whilst the Hen Harriers and most of the Red Kites disappear in spring, other species remain with their numbers supplemented by the arrival of Stone-curlew, Collared Pratincole, Gull-billedTern, Montagu's Harrier, Lesser Kestrel, etc. Later in spring look for Roller hawking fromwires and pylons and Olivaceous Warbler in the riverine tamarisk scrub. Rufous BushChat might to occur in the general area too – any reports would be very welcome!

The directions that follow assume an approach from Exit 80 off the A 92, but can be easilyreinterpreted (via the map) to suit an approach from elsewhere. Take the exit towardsOsuna, but turn off onto a minor road behind a venta and petrol station towards a collectionof warehouses (“poligono”). Take care as this is an awkward badly marked junction. Thisnewly metalled road (SE 715) follows along beside the railway line. The track bed of aproposed fast ‘AVE’ service which, apparently, has now abandoned, is crossed by a series ofhigh bridges (reached via tall embankments) which make view across field for bustards mucheasier. (It remains to be seen what use is made of the track – it would be an excellentwalking/cycling route!). The SE 715 crosses the first bridge (c4 km from the A 92); pull offand walk up towards the bridge. I have seen both Little and Great Bustard from here.

A second bridge (b) is c2km further on and is accessed by a track the swings off to the leftjust before the bridge itself. In 2011 6-7 male Little Bustards displayed in the fields next tothe first embankment – listen for the raspberry call. In February 2013 a flock of c40 GreatBustards could be viewed from the far side of the bridge. The track across form here to track'd' (see map) is very poor and only walkable unless in a 4x4; take care, though, not to disturbthe bustards by approaching too closely.

Another c2.5 km further on go under a third bridge and then turn left up to some ruined fincas(c) – the home of Lesser Kestrels, Little Owl and often Hoopoe. Panoramic views here(particularly from the track to the right) make a it a good point to scan for bustards.Montagu’s Harrier, Black-winged Kite, Collared Pratincoles and Gull-billed Tern can allbe seen here. Head back towards the SE 715 to cross the bridge onto an excellent track (d)which eventually reaches the SE 710 (A 407) via a ford (sometimes tricky in very wetweather). With good views over suitable habitat this is another good spot for both bustards,Calandra Lark and Iberian Grey Shrike plus the species notes above. The area on the farside of the SE 710 is crossed by tracks (e) of variable quality, but can make a good route tosite SV 7 (Lagunas de Lantejuela). Once again the young olive groves here hold IberianGrey Shrike whilst the trees round the old fincas may have Spanish Sparrow (a roost ofc100 winter 2013) The fields along the SE 710 may have Great and Little Bustards (e.g aflock of 70 + Great Bustards towards Osuna in winter 2012/13 and 10+ near 10 km post inFeb. 2013), but there are few places to pull off this often busy road; a farm entrance near the4km marker and a track near the 14km one have offer views over suitable habitat.

A minor road, the SE 716 links the SE 710 back to the SE 715 running along beside therailway. The whole of the SE 716 has good views across farmland. Check the wires andpylons along this road for Iberian Grey Shrike and, in spring/summer, Roller. About 1 kmalong the road, near some farm buildings, a good track (f) runs south across the fields - checkfor bustards, Stone-curlews etc. Iberian Grey Shrike often perch on the telegraph wiresalong the SE 716 and, in spring/summer is often joined by Roller,

Just over 2 km beyond the buildings and track, where the road zig-zags sharply turn off to theright (north). This takes you onto another track, the “Vereda del Alamillo' (g). The trees heremay hold Melodious Warbler and Golden Oriole, the small reedbed Great-reed Warblersand commoner herons whilst the olive groves have more Iberian Grey Shrike and SpanishSparrow. The ruins nearby have breeding Lesser Kestrels and the ubiquitous Little Owl.Continue along the 'verada' (ignore the gated track to your right) and after c1 km you reach anew and very prominent white tower. This recently built structure is essentially an overgrown'nest-box' for Lesser Kestrels. The track here becomes a little rutted so proceed with care ofpark and continue on foot. Check the fields to your left for both bustards and Black-bellied

Sandgrouse (esp. in winter). After c2km you reach a ruined finca – this is a particularly goodspot for Rollers, Little Owl, Hoopoe, etc. Also look out here for Black-winged Kite. Returnto where the 'verada' leaves the SE 716 to walk c250m back towards the SE 715 where arough track on the bend heads off to the south-east and into the fields. The large stony fieldhere regularly attracts Black-bellied Sandgrouse (e.g. c12 birds wintered here In2012/2013). The bridge over the railway just before the junction is good but usually lessproductive than the other options here. If the fields near the junction are flooded they mayattract Black-winged Stilt, Collared Pratincole and Gull-billed Tern.

Turning north-west along the SE 715 the road is flanked by open cereal fields which I'vefound relatively unproductive. However, you might try looking along the track towards yetanother bridge over the railway (see map). The road eventually drops down towards theLaguna de los Ojuelos (h) – unfortunately the wetter areas of this site are beyond the railwayon a very private bull rearing estate so can only be distantly scoped. However, note that abirding tourism company - http://therealbirdwatching.com/ - has negotiated access to thisestate and has photography hides here and elsewhere in the area. Even without access ifwet, you should pick up Flamingo and Black-winged Stilt here, but distance makesidentifying other wading birds a challenge. An interesting area of halophytic vegetation by asmall bridge here has attracted Roller, Collared Pratincole, Lesser Kestrel and Black-bellied Sandgrouse (a flock of 18 were seen nearby in March 2012 and the birds have beenphotographed from the hide mentioned above). in the past. However, in February 2013 it hadbeen ploughed up and planted with crops despite the nearby finca having signs advertising itscollaboration with the programme for the conservation of steppe birds).

On reaching the SE 7201 a rutted track continues to run parallel to the railway which may beworth exploring, but turn right (north) to reach the junction with the SE 7200. Turn left forMarchena (see SV 5) or right to La Lantejuela (SV 7). If heading towards Marchena on the SE7200 stop after c1 km and pull off to the right (north); there's a short signposted nature trailhere and a watch tower (i). Continue another c5 km along this road until the road crosses therailway and then the Rio Carbones (j). The scrub here has Olivaceous Warblers andSpanish Sparrow (but this probably applies to all such scrub in the area!) and check thepylons for Roller.. The fields another c1 km towards Marchena can be Collared Pratincolesand, if you’re lucky, Little Bustard. A Long-legged Buzzard has also been noted here.

Although a longish jaunt this could be combined with an early morning trip to Laguna de laMejorada and late afternoon/evening searches for steppe birds. It is also worth consideringcombining this area with a visit to Laguna de Piedra (a regular site for Lesser Flamingo)although it’s long haul the motorway is conveniently placed for a quick trip. Ideally stay over inone of the local towns for an early start. Osuna has a ‘must-see’ collection of stunningRenaissance buildings – so, naturally, most birders give it a miss! The drive south from hereis a superb way to enter the Grazalema Natural Park (A451).

Access: Follow a variety of well signed routes towards Marchena or Osuna. Access along the track following the new AVE line has been difficult in the past, but now seems fine. Many drivable farm track criss-cross the area.

SV 5.3 – *** La Lantejuela Area

Why visit? – after a wet winter these lakes can be alive with ducks (inc. White-headed), terns and waders and the surrounding farmland has bustards. Also you can support a nascent ormithological tourism industry.

é - Most birds can be seen from good drivable tracks/roads

Following a dry winter this site can be bone dry and birdless, when it's been wet they can bestuffed with birds. The village has also hosted a modest ‘bird fair’ and there are plans todevelop ornitho-tourism here. Despite this they are still threatened by agricultural developmentso the presence of visiting birders may may do some good.

As suggested by the above account these lakes often dry out in summer or even remain drythroughout the winter – hence most ‘lagunas’ have the alternative name ‘hoya’ (= depression).Laguna del Gobierno (a) off Avenida de la Vereda de la Huerta in the village is an exception

as it seems, in part, to be an old water treatment works. This site has some basic hides, butpermission to visit the reserve is needed (contact: info@birding sevilla.com ) although mostbirds of interest can be seen from the road or the top of a flat roofed white building in a smallcompound. In 2013 this site had 15 pairs of White-headed Duck (raising 56 ducklings) makingit one of Andalucia's best sites for this species. Also present in 2013 was a heronry withCattle Egret (200 pairs), Night Heron (30 pairs), Squacco Heron (3 pairs) and Glossy Ibis(1 pair) plus breeding Blacknecked Grebe and Red-crested Pochard.

A signposted 'Ornithological Route' starts just beyond the Laguna de Gobierno and gives agood chance of seeing some 'steppe birds' (both bustards, Collared Pratincoles, Montagu'sHarrier). The route follows the righthand fork from the end of the tarmac road, past a track toa local tip on the right and down towards a Tjunction. This route gives excellent views acrossthe 'campo' At the T-junction go right and then after a few hundred metres turn right againtowards an isolated farmhouse. After the farmhouse the track get rougher but the SE 708 (b)can be reached with care (see map). It is also worth following the SE 700 towards Fuentes deAndalucia as in summer Roller often perch on the pylons/wires along this route. A track onthe right (c4km north of La Lantejuela) appears to link up with those near the laguna and maybe worth exploring. Initially it follows a well vegetated canal which should attract passerines.Taking the SE 708 west from La Lantejuela towards for El Rubio, after about 2.5 km from thevillage a good track runs across the farmlands on your right – apparently part of the plans toencourage ‘eco-tourism’ . After c700m you get a view across Laguna/Hoya de la Verde Sal(b) which, I suspect is more ‘hoya’ than ‘laguna’ since even in what seems a wet year it wasdry. (According to one source a sendero passes to the west of the hoya to reach Laguna dePedro Lopez). Look for Stone Curlew here and the habitat looks good for BlackbelliedSandgrouse (although rare in this general area).

The track passing Verde Sal continues to give good views of Laguna Ballestera (c) which isalso viewable from the SE 708 (although parking along the road is limited). Unlike the accessto this track further along the SE 708 there are no restrictive notices coming from this direction(although if the water level in the laguna is high further progress along the track is impossible).Take care not to spook the birds which can be very close to the shore here. Ballestera oftenhas several hundred Flamingos, but also check carefully for Lesser Flamingo which hasoccurred several times. Four Ruddy Shelduck were also present in the winter of 2012/2013.Many Ruff and other waders, Whiskered Tern, ducks (inc. Red-crested Pochard and White-headed), Black-necked Grebe and numerous Coots present. Both Montagu’s Harrier andLesser Kestrel are common and Black-winged Kite has now colonised the area. The trackbehind Laguna Ballestera rejoins the SE 708 about 1km further west (e). There's a large sign

here showing a walking route to Laguna Pedro de Lopez (f) which, if wet, holds those speciesalready noted for more accessible lagunas. (This noticeboard is flanked by an old noticesuggesting this is a ‘restricted military area'; obviously you can walk this route, but it's unclearwhether you can drive along it). This should be more accessible from (c) assuming the waterlevel is not too high. Note that walking to this laguna is not advised during the heat of thesummer.

Back on the SE 708 there's a T-junction just after you pass Laguna Ballestera where, by goingnorth, on the SE 705 you pass Laguna Consuegra (d). In wet springs the junction mayoverlook flooded fields which can have good numbers of Lapwing, Black-winged Stilt andGull-billed Terns.The laguna itself, accessed by a rough track running along its eastern rim,holds many of the species noted under Ballestera (inc. vagrant Lesser Flamingo).

Back on the now familiar SE 708 continue towards El Rubio. In spring 2011 there was a largedistant flooded area to the north of the road which was packed with Flamingos and waders(inc. Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Dunlins, etc). However, although probably always'damp' this area is not always flooded.

Roughly 10 km after leaving the La Lantejuela you reach the A 351 (Ecija-Osuna road) andwith it the Hoya/Laguna de la Turquillas (g). Although often dry and when wet clogged withreeds, it attracts dozens of Whiskered, and a few Black Terns, Squacco Heron, PurpleGallinule and White-headed Ducks. Marbled Duck sometimes appear here so scancarefully. (Note that parking here can be tricky). The warm tarmac road tempt CollaredPratincole. to rest perilously. Purple Heron & Little Bittern breed. Evidently a sendero(footpath) skirts the edge of the laguna towards the Lagunas de Calderon (h).

There are two Lagunas de Calderon – Chica and Grande. The tiny Laguna de Calderon Chicatends to be the wetter of the two and presumably has many of the same species as Laguna dela Turquillas. Immediately to the south is the larger neighbour Laguna de Calderon Grande.However, whilst it has a greater surface area than its near name sake, it’s much shallower andmore often deserves to be called a ‘hoya’. Once more pulling off the road here is tricky, but altleast there’s a track you could pull onto at its southern end. There is a car park betweenLagunas Turquillas & Chica, but the gate here is often padlocked and evidently access is notgenerally allowed. (Touristic developments here may improve matters although the nearestTourist Information Office in Osuna seemed to know little about the current situation).

Anywhere along the A 351 has the potential to turn up Great or Little Bustards, but findingsomewhere safe to pull over is always problematical (although I’m probably more cautious thansome). The best areas look to be to the west left 5-6 km north of the junction of the SE 708/A351.

To the east, set amongst distant hills tantalisingly shimmering in the heat c1.5 - 2 km from theroad lies the Laguna Ruiz Sanchez (j); once the largest lake (356 hectares) in the complex andthe second largest in Andalucia – only Fuente de Piedra was larger. Previously home toMarbled, Ferruginous & White-headed Ducks and Crested Coot, the laguna was drained in1967. However, it was purchased by the Andalucian junta (for 6 million €) in 2006. In 2009 anambitious restoration project began to increase water flow into the laguna's basin whichinvolving building two small dams, several culverts and diverting stream. A rough track on theA 351 by the 14 km post (i.e. c3 km north of Laguna de la Turquillas) runs uphill to a small farmbuilding (c1 km) and then drops down towards the laguna. This is drivable with care insummer, but may be too badly rutted in a wet winter. The edge of the laguna (if wet!) is c500mfrom the track and greater elevation permits improved views across to the centre of the laguna.The track turns up towards a couple of fincas and may allow more access (esp on foot). Awinter visit, track allowing, should be excellent with Peregrine, Merlin, Bonelli's Eagle andCranes joining the wintering wildfowl.

The local community is now growing aware of the potential of eco-tourism. In 2010 thecomplex was awarded a grant of 600,000€ to develop a visitors’ centre and encouragebirdwatching (although this seems to have been spent on leaflets rather than infrastructure).However, the area continues to be threatened by agricultural development so the presence ofvisiting birders may may do some good (esp. if they spend money in local ventas!)

For further details see - http://lantejuelaturismorural.blogspot.com/ - via which it might bepossible to organise a guided tour of some sites.

Note - the only laguna in the complex I can’t find is the Laguna de Cantera Romana – let me know if you find it!

Access – Explore the roads noted above pulling off where you can to check promising habitat.Also explore any minor roads/drivable tracks in the area.

ii) Malaga

See also comments introduction to this section.

* M1 – Casares – Rio Genal, Sierras de la Utrera & Crestellina

Why visit? – a convenient stop if heading from Malaga to Gaucin & Grazalema – GoldenEagle, Whiterumped Swift & Black Wheatear

é - Casares is steep, but good views from mirador and from road to Gaucin.

Just off the AP 7 toll road, the Sierra de la Utrera makes an excellent quick stop for species likeBlack-eared & Black Wheatear andBlue Rockthrush. The rock formationshere are also known as the Torcalito delManilva (or Utrera) being reminscent,although on a much smaller scale of ElTorcal. A minor road running besidesand then under the AP 7 takes you to astream (c1 km) along which a trackheads north. Paths from here take youinto good habitat for Blue Rockthrushand both wheatears.. Two tracks off theA 377 (c3 km and c4.5 km from thequarry) also take you up to paths intogood habitat During passage, the driveup to Casares on the A 377 can producea good range of raptors with includingHoney Buzzard, Short-toed andBooted Eagle, Black Kite, etc. Theroute up from the coast passes a largewind farm – check the grassy areas herefor Tawny Pipit (c). Turn right forCasares (d) check with the visitors'centre – on your right as you enter thevillage – for walking routes up the toridge. Casares is an attractive 'puebloblanco' with an old castle perched abovethe village – a site for the elusive White-rumped Swift. (along with Common,Pallid and Alpine), Lesser Kestrel andsometimes Black Wheatear. Explore theMA 8300 west for raptors andpasserines.

Driving towards Gaucin on the A 377,the impressive crags of the SierraCrestellina (d) appear on your right –stop and scan here for Raven, Chough, Griffon Vulture, Bonelli's and, with luck, Golden Eagle. Egyptian Vulture are seen on passage, but are apparently extinct as breeding birds in

Malaga Province. Thekla Lark are common along the roadside, but also check for Rock Bunting and Rock Sparrow. The road then weaves its way through scrubby habitats and down to the Rio Genal (check forRock Bunting and Rock Sparrow). Immediately after crossing the bridge, turns sharp rightalong a rough track down to the river (e). This is an idyllic spot and one that's often good forGolden Oriole and passage migrants (e.g. Redtart, Pied Flycatcher).

Access – Casares is well signposted off the coastal motor-way (E15/A7) near Maniliva.Similarly, the village is well signposted south from Gaucin. See above for access to the sierras.

* M2 – Rio Guadalhorce

Why visit? – a convenient stop for wetland species (often inc. White-headed Duck)near Malaga airport. Good track record for scarcities and rarities.

é - Hides on the reserve, but track rough and uneven.

NOTE: - This site has rightly gained a notorious reputation for thefts from cars – particularly hire cars (often identified by stickers). Avoid parking near the bridge into the reserve. Minimise the riskfurther by parking in more busy and populated parts of Guadalmar even if it means a longer walk. Local birders suggest parking near the church or school (see map). Try to leave nothing of value inthe car (removing parcel shelf to demonstrate the fact), leave open an empty glovebox and removehire car stickers. You can always go elsewhere since the reserve rarely has anything not found at other sites.

Being less than 10 minutes fromMalaga airport this is a popular stopon arrival or before departures (butsee the warning above). Being oneof the few wetland sites along thiscoast it is also popular with localbirdwatchers and accordingly, beingso well watched, has a good trackrecord for turning up rare or scarcebirds. Each of the four main poolson the reserve – Laguna Escondida

( a), Laguna de la Casilla (b), RioViejo (c) and Laguna Grande (d) –have hides (rather roofed screens).Seawatching is possible from (e)although the small pier/slipway onthe other side of the river to thenorth should be better.

Wetland species such as Flamingo, Night Heron, Purple Gallinule, Kentish Plover are present all year and are joined in the breeding season by Little Bittern, Squacco Heron,Little Ringed Plover. Hoopoe, Pallid Swift, Great Reed Warbler also present. During passage a wide range of raptors, waders, terns and gulls (inc. Audouin's) can be expected. Beeeaters and manyspecies of passerine pass through.

Access: - take Exit 3 off the MA 20 for Guadalmar. If arriving from the airport take roadover the MA 21 and then turn off to the left for San Julian (near a soft drinks depot). In thevillage go left (signposted for Guadalmar) and into the resrt. (NB – if you miss the turn, headnorth on the MA 21 and then back south on the MA 20). The reserve can be reached onpublic transport (via Guadalmar) by bus from Malaga (no 5 from the Almeda Principal or No10 from the raileway station -10-20 minutes - fare1-2 €).

iii) G1 - Gibraltar

Why visit? – Barbary Partridge, raptor migration and a ‘Brit fix’!

é - notoriously steep so not the best place for wheelchairs although taxis or chairlift can take you high onto the Rock.

Gibraltar has the advantage of hostingmainland Europe's only BarbaryPartridge and an English speakingpopulation of birdwatchers. Unfortunately,due to development and a lack ofenvironmental protection by thegovernment, the population of partridgeshad plummeted to single figures by 2014rendering the species very difficult to see.However, in March 2015 around 200partridges were reintroduced to variousareas (inc. Windmill Hill, Upper Rock firebreaks and near Bruce’s Farm) althoughit remains to be seen if this will be a longterm solution without other conservationmeasures. Whether they're still ethicallylistable is another matter. Most of theflatter areas are heavily built up and, otherthan gulls and swifts, are generallybirdless. The upper rock is a naturereserve, but is dizzyingly steep with densecover and little access (except metalledroads). As a result a number of birds thatare widespread and relatively common inSpain only occur as migrants here (oreven vagrants a Calandra Lark in 2012was the first for 35 years). However, thereis a very active bird observatory andnatural history society ( www.gonhs.org ).

In recent years (2014), political 'sabre rattling' by the Spanish authorities means crossing theborder can be a nightmare (esp. for car drivers). At the best of times at peak periods there canstill be long traffic jams to enter or leave Gibraltar. Visiting birders may find it easier to park inLa Linea and walk in to use local public transport. If your primary aim is to explore nearbySpain, Gibraltar might not make a convenient base whilst tensions continue. However, if asedentary observation of migrants across the straits is your preferred option then it can be agood choice.

I’ve not attempted any serious birding on 'the Rock' so check Garcia & Patterson for details.For an excellent résumé of wildlife on the Rock see 'British Birds' March 2016 pp142-156.

In brief remember that:- i) Raptors – westerlies are the best winds – good watchpoints include

Princess Caroline's Battery and the upper station of the cable car. ii) Migrants passerines - check the cemetery to the north of the peninisular, Governor's Lookout, Jacob's Ladder (in easterlies) and Mediterranean Steps. The Botanic

Gardens, near the foot of the cable-car can also hold migrants. The GONHS has a bird observatory at Jew's Gate which is a useful stop for the latest information. iii) Seawatching from Europa Point can be excellent with Gannets, Cory's & Balearic Shearwaters plus one of the few sites for (Mediterranean) Shag in the area.

Opinion varies about 'Gib' some find it too much of a tourist trap and, to be honest, a wee bittacky, but personally I like the 'Tunbridge Wells-in-the-Med' feel of the place. If you need a"Brit fix" (there’s a Morrison’s supermarket for supplies of marmite, etc) or you really need agood selection of English language paperbacks this is the place for you! There are alsothose Barbary Apes which, unlike their avian namesake, seem to be faring all too well.

NB - REMEMBER YOUR PASSPORT!

Access: - as noted above access onto Gibraltar is sometimes compromisedby political tensions; the road is also closed when aircraft land so delays arelikely. Check too that you hire car company permits you to venture out ofSpain. Parking can be difficult on Gib. Parking just beyond the border andwalking in is an option – arrivals on foot are usually less prone to delays.You can travel on Gib's buses all day for 2€ - those from the border go to thecable car.

Appendix 2 – Selected Species List (with annotations & phenological notes)

i) BIRDSRarities:Spanish rarities, Local

rarities

Introductions:I = introduced/feral species

Main Status (in CADIZ province only):

Present all year Breeding & passage visitorsWinter & passage visitorsPassage.only -

Summer’ visitors arrive, albeit often in small numbers, in late February andby March/early April migration is in full swing. [ ] = Seville Province. For a number of migrant species, mainly those of particular interest to British birders, I have also given a phenological table – based in part on my own observations, but also on the ‘Guia de Aves del Estrecho’ (see notes) and information from the ‘web’. They are a little ‘tentative’ though! The shadings on these diagrams are explained below:

Main wintering period Fewerpresent

Wintering species: = peak migration periods

Few migrants Present in suitable habitat Fewwinter

Summer migrants: = peak migration periods

NOTE: These tables need ‘tweaking’ and are currently in a 'rough-and-ready’ form should be usedonly an approximate guidelines!

Black-neckedGrebe

- A common breeding & wintering bird on most of the small lagunas that dot the province – note that Slavonian is very rare. See NW2.4, NW5, NW6, NW7, NW8, SV1 & SV2

Cory's (Scopoli’s) Shearwater

Two races (increasingly regarded as full species) occur. Scopoli's (C.d. diomedea) breeds in theMediterranean, but largely winters in the Atlantic. They return to the Mediterranean in February –March and depart Oct- mid-Nov.; passage may exceeed 3,000 per hour for long periods. Cory's(C.d. borealis) breeds mainly on Atlantic islands (a few do in the Med.) - status unclear due to IDproblems but those birds present in the Straits and MALAGA Bay June-Oct. May be of thisspecies. In general “Cory's type” shearwaters seem commonly round coasts except Jan-Feb.See NW14.3, SW5, SW14, E8 & E9 Little (Micronesian/Barolo's) Shearwater R

Very few records – 4 from Gibraltar; there’s a possibility that pelagic trips to the Atlantic side of thestraits (esp. in the early autumn) may prove it to be a more regular visitor.

Levantine (Yelkouan) Shearwater

Formerly a common late summer visitor – now much rarer. Although,given how few people (meincluded!) are confident in identifying this from the next species at anything other than atreasonable range & in good light, it may be overlooked. The Mediterranean coast (e.g. E9Sotogrande) probably offers the best chance. Balearic Shearwater

Commonly seen off the coast migrating west through Straits May-August and returning Sept-Jan. Few birds seen through year. See NW14.3, SW5, SW14, E8 & E9

Wilson’s Petrel R

Only a handful of records, but recent records suggest that it is probably regular in small numbers in the straits;one seen on a whale watching trip in August 2009, several small flocks onsimilar trips in July-August 2011, a couple recorded in July 2012 and more seen in 2013 - 5 inSpanish waters and a further 5-10 on the Moroccan side of the straits (July - Sept).

Shag

Now extremely rare and very unlikely to be seen other on Gibraltar (E8) which has only 4-5 pairs (the most westerly outpost of this the Mediterranean race. This subspecies has fewer than 75 pairs on mainland Spain (but over 2,000 on the Balearics).

Western Reef (Egret) Heron

An annual species (esp. Bonanza area NW2.3 & Cadiz Bay NW 14/15) although most reportsare of hybrids with Little Egret Cattle Egret

Abundant - although the number of colonies is restricted, Cattle Egrets disperse widely and area ubiquitous species here. Excellent views may be had from the car of the colony on La Janda (SW7)when active (although this colony had declined in 2015).

Little Egret

Disperses less widely than Cattle Egret & more restricted to wetlands, but still common (e.g. NW2).

Great White Egret

A much increased species which is frequently met with in any of the ‘marismas’ particularly (although not exclusively) in winter. About 30 pairs (over 50% of Spanish population) breed on the Coto Donana. In Cadiz Bay (NW14/15) numbers have risen from a small handful in 2000 to 35+ in 2010; a change reflected throughout the area. A visit to Cadiz Bay, Bonanza (NW2.3),Trebujena, (NW2.5/6), Laguna de Medina (NW8) etc. area usually turns up one or two birds.

Purple Heron

Found in all areas with sufficient reeds to provide nesting habitat, but more widespread on migration. Try Laguna de Medina (NW8), Cigarrera (NW5), Bonanza area (NW2) or Embalse deBornos (E1)

Squacco Heron

The scarcest of the small herons – Laguna de Tarelo (NW2.4) and, if you venture north onto Seville, Brazo del Este (SV2) are the most likely sites, but may turn up anywhere on migration (e.g.La Janda).

Night Heron

A widespread if often localised species found at most sites with suitable habitat. A handful winter (esp. in the Guadalquivir valley). Laguna de Tarelo (NW2.4) is arguably the easiest place tosee them, but any wetlands will have them e.g. Lagunas de Medina (NW8), Cigarrera (NW5) &Espera (NW6)

Little Bittern

Can be surprisingly elusive for such an apparently common bird – however, Bonanza pools (NW2.2) never disappoints and both Laguna de Medina (NW8) and de la Mejorada (SV3 Seville) are excellent for the species. Rarely winters.

Black Stork

A frequent and increasing passage migrant with 2,000+ crossing the straits in autumn. Birds increasingly (75+?) winter in the province e.g. La Janda (SW7), Trebujena Marshes (NW2.6),Bonanza (NW3), etc.

White Stork

Abundant – now winters in good numbers. Some quite filthy birds – they often feed on rubbish tips – can be found.

Bald Ibis I

Although a genuine vagrant, an introduction scheme means they are best viewed as an introduced species . They can be seen along the coast south of Barbate (SW 6) although they are much more easily seen on the driving range at the Montenmedio Golf & Country Club (off the Tarifa road south of Vejer). As has been widely reported in the national and local press in Spain and on the internet, birds regularly breed on cliffs near Vejer (see SW 16). The project is going well with a third colony now established and 25 young fledged in 2014.

Sacred Ibis I

This species, presumably from the expanding French feral population, sometimes occurs and has attempted to breed (at Embalse de Celemin).

Glossy Ibis

Bred in Spain until 1940s, but then for decades there were only sporadic records. Present on the Coto in late 1980s, breeding in 1996 (7 pairs) increasing to 5,300 pairs in 2010. Flocks of several hundred frequent on the Trebujena marshes when wet (NW2.6); see also La Janda (SW7), Bonanza (NW3), etc. Record Spanish count of 12,000 in November from Brazo del Este (SV2.1). A handful now breed in the egret colony on La Janda.

Eurasian Spoonbill

Another increasing species – breeds in Cadiz Bay (Trocadero Island) and on Laguna de Tarelo(NW2.4).

Flamingo

Unmissable: common and easily seen bird on the marismas (NW2, NW14/15/16) & shallow lagoons NW6/7/8/9) of the area.

Lesser Flamingo R

Increasingly recorded amongst Greater Flamingo especially at Laguna de Fuente Piedra (Malaga) where they have bred and where up to seven birds were present in 2009. Previously widely regardedas escapes, most are now generally accepted to be genuine vagrants. Several records from

Lagunas de Lantejuela (SV7). May turn up anywhere in a flock of Greater Flamingos (e.g. Bonanza Jan 2016).

Shelduck

OK they might be boring bread-and-butter birds to you but Bonanza saltpans (NW2.3) is one of thefew breeding sites in southern Spain!

Marbled Duck

A scarce and often elusive species with only 30-50 pairs breeding in the Guadalquivir marshes. Although reported from many of the sites lagunas listed in the text, the only site where I’ve found them regularly in Cadiz province is the Codo de la Esparraguera (NW2.5 f) along the road besides the Guadalquivir. I have also seen them at Brazo del Este (SV2). Before being damaged and pollutedLaguna de los Tollos (NW5) was a significant site for this species (up to 50 in the 1970s) and its restoration may yet tempt them to return. Some birds winter.

White-headed Duck

Although winter is arguably the best season to see this species, they are present all year. I have regularly seen them at Lagunas de Espera (NW6), Laguna de Medina (NW8), Lagunas de Puerto Real (NW10) and Laguna de Tarelo (NW2.4), ‘Bonanza Pools’ (NW2.2) and less often elsewhere. Having declined in recent years at Laguna de Medina (NW8) due to introduced carp, numbers rose at this site, but now seem to have slipped back. For good, close views ‘Bonanza Pools’can’t be bettered.

Osprey A frequent winter visitor. A co-ordinated survey in 2016 found 106 wintering birds in Andalucia of which 70% were in Cadiz Bay (NW14/15/16); birds also present on reservoirs around Arcos de la Frontera - Embalses de Arcos, Bornos & Guadalcacin) and passage migrant. In the last decade a few pairs have bred – first a 'wild' pair on Embalse de Guadalcacin in 2005 and subsequently 'hacked' birds from a re-introduction project based on Embalse de Barbate (SW 1) where 73 birds released 2003-2009. In 2013 there were nine pairs in Andalusia which raised 15 young and according to press reports by 2015 there were 20 pairs in Cadiz province alone.

Black-winged Kite

Despite a pair being seen near Sanlucar de Barrameda in spring 1884, it is a recent colonist to Spainwith breeding first proven in 1973. It is an increasing species both in winter and in the breedingseason. First wintered in Cadiz province in 1987 and first bred in 1995, but now relatively common.A survey in 2011 found at least 150 pairs split between the provinces of Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba.However, this seems a modest figure given how often I find them in both 'known' and less familiarsites. I've been told that there were “at least 35 pairs” in Cadiz province in 2009, but Stephen Dalyreports on his blog that there are about 20 pairs in the “La Janda area” alone and possibly 100 pairsin the province as a whole. I wouldn't be surprised. A careful search of any of the lowland habitatsin an arc from La Janda (SW7) across to Medina Sidonia, Laguna de Medina (NW8), Arcos de laFrontera and on to Espera (NW6) should ensure a sighting or two. Locally, the Cantarranas/LosNaveros/La Janda (SW3/4/7) area is the best bet. More widespread in winter with up to 40 birdsroosting on La Janda (where the numbers have risen from 6 birds in 2002 to c40 in 2008). In myexperience much easier to see here than in Extremadura.

Red Kite

A declining species in Spain. In 2015 a survey found c2,000 pairs in Spain (a 40% decline in theprevious decade). In Andalucia only 56 breeding pairs were found of which 53 pairs were found inthe Coto Donana (22 pairs in the biological reserve and another 31 pairs in the wider park), withthe remaining three pairs were divided between the Sierra de Aracena and the Picos de Aroche.In Cadiz breeds only in Sanlucar area (Bonanza NW2.3). More widespread in winter and on passage.

Black Kite

An abundant migrant (from February onwards although some now returning in December!). During

migration the Medina area seems particularly attractive to the species as does Los Barrios rubbishtip! Algaida Pines (Sanlucar) has a colony of c100 pairs. Few seen in winter.

Egyptian Vulture

In serious decline throughout it’s European range. In Andalucia numbers have dropped from 81 pairs (1987) to 33 in 2008 mainly due to poisoning. These are spread across Jaen, Cordoba,Seville and Malaga (where it may actually be extinct), but the bulk seem to be in Cadiz province.Entire Spanish population c1,500 pairs so still tolerably frequent on migration in the area. There’susually a pair around the cave at SW8. During migration periods I regularly see them in the Molinosvalley and from Alcala village itself.

Griffon Vulture

A huge increase in population from c8,000 pairs (max) in 1960 to c25,000 today, About 3,000 breed in Andalucia (of which c1,000 breed in Alcornocales/Grazalema area). The Molinos valley hosts a large roost for this species. A number of ‘official’ feeding sites exist, but are, inexplicably in my view, not used for to promote conservation or to educate the public. However, a public site has been established near Cortes de la Frontera (see E 3.4) but I do not have details of when or how often the birds are fed. Another site may exist near Villaluenga del Rosario (Grazalema – E3.2). At least 4,000birds winter but many migrate.

Black Vulture

A scarce visitor, but perhaps increasing – most often seen in winter. Best sites seem to be La JandaSW7, Los Barrios Rubbish Tip (SW15) & Grazalema E3 where a handful apparently resident.

Rüppell’s Vulture R

An annual, if elusive, visitor in small numbers. Most seem to be found in August and earlySeptember but this might simply reflect increased birding activity at this time. If, as widelysuggested, Griffons act as ‘carrier’ species then early November and late May/early June shouldbe peak times. Persevere and double check any darker birds that seem small (although sizesoverlap) and appear to fly on flat wings (although Griffon do that too!). Most birds are immature,but an adult was in the Grazalema-Ronda area in 2010. Los Barrios tip (SW18) and any of themigration watchpoints (but esp. Cazalla SW13.2 AND Algarrobo SW13.8) are your best bet, butthey can be seen anywhere.

Lammergeier LR

An extremely rare visitor since becoming locally extinct in Andalucia in the 1960s, but re-introduction plans (first young raised 2015) in the province may change its status here .

Short-toed Eagle

Handful reported in winter despite its exclusively reptilian diet. Abundant on migration (which startsun February..

Montagu's Harrier

In decline with the population in Andalucia dropping from 1,483 pairs (1993) to 959 pairs (2010). However, it remains not uncommon in favoured areas and still more frequent on migration. Any open

farmed area should have a pair or two – La Janda (SW7) and the Seville farmlands (SV5). NB – Spain, esp. Galicia, has a greater proportion (3 - 5%) of melanistic birds than elsewhere.

Pallid Harrier R

In recent years the number of Pallid Harriers found in Spain has soared from literally a handful per annum in the early 2000s to 30+ in 2013, 25 in 2014 and 40+ in 2015. Most (95%) are found in March/April in Catalonia, but one or two birds have also found their way to Cadiz (esp La Janda where they have wintered) so check harriers carefully! http://www.rarebirdalert.co.uk/v2/Content/Pallid_Harrier_influx_in_NE_Iberia_in_March_2015.aspx?s_id=448153747

Goshawk Arguably the most elusive of the local raptors despite a healthy population in the mountains. Best looked for when displaying early in the year. Possible anywhere - a juvenile bird ‘bounced’ the Lesser Kestrels over the terrace one August, Note that Sparrowhawks are fairly common …….

Long-legged Buzzard

Birds are of the African race cirtensis are smaller and less long winged than the eastern race andlack a dark morph. Increasingly reported on passage, as a summer visitor (Tarifa) andoccasionally in winter near Ronda. Two pairs attempted to breed (one successfully) near LaJanda in 2009 and reports of breeding continue into 2014 (six pairs said to be present in thehinterland of the Straits). This may reflect either a change in status (and they seem to haveincreased in Morocco) or, perhaps, a greater level of expertise/awareness by birdwatchers.(Although cynics may think a low level of expertise could be responsible for an increase in non-photographed records!). Active local birdwatchers seem to find them annually. Reports areconcentrated in the La Janda/Tarifa area, but records are widespread with reports from the CotoDonana, Grazalema, Marchena, Ronda and elsewhere. Some birds have remained in a favouredlocation for several months or even years (e.g. Cazalla, Los Barios, etc).Note – identification is complicated by the presence of Long-legged x Common Buzzards hybrids(sometimes referred to as “Gibraltar Buzzard” in the area). See Rodriguez, Elorriaga & Ramirez2013. Identification of Atlas Long-legged Buzzard and its status in Europe. Birding World 26(4): 147–173.

Spanish Imperial Eagle

Formerly bred at Las Lomas (La Janda) and now breeding again in the area following a successfulre-introduction programme. Most often seen in the mountains and hills around the Embalse deBarbate (SW1) and towards La Janda (SW7). Young birds also winter around Espera (NW6). Withluck and patience may be seen over the Coto from the Trebujena/Bonanza area (NW2.3). Stillpersecuted – three (or more) birds were poisoned near the Coto in 2009. Between 2-3 birdsregularly reported in the Cortes de la Frontera area in recent years. Despite persecution in 2012 asurvey found 360+ pairs of Spanish Imperial Eagles in Spain (plus three in Portugal) - the highestnumber of fledged young (341) on record was in 2010. A reported 61 pairs in Andalucia. Acontinuing re-introduction programme has released c80 young birds into Cadiz province, establishinga population of 5 breeding pairs (2014). Accordingly, increasingly seen on La Janda in recent years.

Golden Eagle

Despite heavy persecution, since 2003 the population in Grazalema has risen from 8 to 14 pairs.They are regularly seen in the Alcornocales (esp. in winter). I've once seen the species over myhouse in Alcala de los Gazules) and just outside the 'parish' in San Jose in Sept 2014.

“Spotted” EagleIn recent years there has been a marked increase in the number of “Spotted” Eagles reported from the Straits in autumn (e.g. 10+ sightings in autumn 2015) and it seems a few birds now migrate west

rather than east. There are also more frequent reports of wintering birds on La Janda. Most have been identified as Lesser Spotted Eagle, but a number of known radio tagged hybrid Greater x Lesser birds are also involved. However a Greater Spotted Eagle seen in Jan 2016. For a detailed and very useful discussion of this see - http://birdingthestrait.com/blog/exceptional-spotted-eagle-season-in-the-strait-of-gibraltar/ Greater Spotted Eagle seen in Jan 2016

Bonelli's Eagle

Gradually increasing in the area with Cadiz holding 41 pairs (2009). Grazalema hold one of thelargest populations of this species in Spain – I have rarely missed them in the Llanos de Libar(E4). Scarcer in Los Alcornocales where I have seen them in the Molinos valley, La Teja (SW16d) and El Picacho (E2.2). Young birds disperse into the lowlands in winter esp. around areas suchas Espera (NW6) and La Janda (SW7). Still occurs at Laja de la Zarga (SW 8) where WilloughbyVerner records finding it in his 1909 book his “My Life among the Wild Birds in Spain”!

Booted Eagle

Common and increasing breeding bird in Spain – small numbers increasingly reported in winterparticularly near wetland habitats like Guadalhorce, Coto, etc. Pale morphs heavily outnumber darkand intermediate morphs (which can be confused with Black Kite). A good population nests in Algaidapines (NW2.4).

Lesser Kestrel

After a period of decline now increasing with over 5,000 pairs in Andalucia (2011) where there are almost 700 colonies. Many of the larger villages and small towns in Cadiz seem to have a colony and feeding birds scatter widely across the lowlands. A group of Spanish birdwatchers told me that Alcalá de los Gazules – more specifically the street outside my house - is known THE place to get good views of this attractive little falcon. The most recent estimate for the Andalucian population is just over 5,000 birds (and increasing). A few birds winter (when best found at dusk as they return to colonies to roost) and they arrive in good numbers by mid-February. Much less frequent over the village by August when many birds have dispersed on to the lowlands returning only to roost.

Lanner R

Probably bred in the area inn the 19thC, but now a Spanish rarity. However, given the relativefrequency with which the very few local birders seem to find this species a few probably regularlywinter or appear on passage. La Janda and migration watchpoints seems a favoured sites, but thismay merely reflect observer activity. A handful of winter records, but most birds seen March –October with a distinct peak in August and September (and a sharp drop in July) Said to be 2-3 birdspresent in 2010. (Note a radio tagged Saker from Hungary appeared in Spain in 2009 and anotherSaker was reported in autun 2014 so check carefully!)

Eleonora’s Falcon LR

Said to have bred on Gibraltar in the distant past, but still a very scarce spring (midApril) and autumn(August) visitor. Regularly seen, albeit in very small numbers, on La Janda (SW7) and in the Tarifa area (SW13). A few birds occasionally spend weeks in the summer around favoured spots (e.g. Coín near Malaga), so it is always an outside possibility here.

Barbary Partridge

Famously restricted to Gibraltar (E8). It has recently been in serious decline and difficult to see. In March 2015 the population was boosted by the introduction of c200 birds, but recentindications are that this has not stemmed the decline.

Baillon's Crake

Sometimes reported from Brazo del Este (SV4 ) where you need to be familiar with this species call to locate one.

Purple Gallinule

Increasingly and widespread in all wetland habitats. Most easily seen on newly harvested rice paddies on la Janda. Locally called the Gallo Azul ( = blue chicken – cf the famous tapas barin Jerez) ). Most wetlands will have them e.g. Lagunas de Medina (NW8), Cigarrera (NW5), Espera(NW6), La Janda (SW7), etc.

Crested Coot

This can be a frustratingly difficult species to pin down partly due to being a needle-in-a-haystack amongst all the Common Coots, but also due to their habit of sticking very close to thereeds. Things have been made no easier by occasional droughts (when very few birds may bepresent) and the introduction of ‘alien’ fish into some lakes. For example, Laguna de Medina (NW8)has had up to 25 individuals, but currently (2014) it has few, if any, birds apparently due to this cause.The most regular site now appears to be Lagunas de Espera (NW6) where three pairs bred in 2011.Laguna Dulce de la Zorrilla, the furthest from the road, is the best of these lagunas. However,theymay also be present on the nearby Laguna de Cigarrera (NW7) – which is an easier site to visit thanEspera. The Spanish bird atlas suggests that they nest on rather more lagunas in the area than this,but few details available. A ‘scope is often vital for finding this species. The number of breeding birdsseems to fluctuate between 10-25 pairs with scarcely any birds breeding in drought years (thisdespite extensive re-introduction efforts)

Small Button Quail (Andalucian Hemipode) R

Since 1950 there are fewer than 25 published records plus a handful of 'reports' (many comingfrom hunters rather than birdwatchers) for the whole of Spain (all but a handful from Andalucia andover 50% from the Coto Donana). Of relevance here are records from Jerez de la Frontera (onehunted 1956, caught in a Quail net and several seen in1958), La Janda (hunted birds 1955),Barbate (reported 1978), Chiclana (heard 1995), “SW Cadiz” (2000-2001 several hunted!) and themost recent one heard on Donana (2002). Both the Spanish atlas enquiry and specific surveyssince have drawn a blank and failed to locate any birds. If not extinct then incredibly rarely locatedby birdwatchers – if you find one alert SEO and quickly buy a lottery ticket whilst your luck's in. (Seemy blog for details & overview).

Crane Formerly bred on La Janda (SW7) which had a population of 30-40 pairs in the 19thC (extinct in 1954). Now only a winter visitor arriving in October and staying into April. Birds may spill out into surround areas (Embalse de Barbate SW1) or as far as Trebujena (NW2.5/6) in early spring.

Great Bustard Extinct as a breeding bird in the province (formerly bred bird at La Janda) and classified as ‘in criticaldanger of extinction’ in Andalucia. The nearest population now found east of Seville near Osuna(SV5.2) where it is easier to find in the winter. Presumably, the odd bird may wander into theprovince in the future probably during winter when the species disperses more widely. TheAndalucian population is estimated to be 441 individuals in 2011 (inc. 195 in Seville province).

Little Bustard

Declining. There is a reasonable, but frustratingly elusive, population around Benalup (SW2),on La Janda (SW7) and, apparently, near Tarifa (SW10). Best located in spring by its far carrying‘raspberry’ call. The impact on this population of so many wind generators in the area is a matter ofconcern. Also present in the area near Osuna (SV5.2) and elsewhere east of Seville (SV5 & SV7).The latest figures for the Andalucian population give a total of 5,259 males, but only 193 males inCadiz province.

Stone-Curlew

A widespread if thinly spread breeding bird – some winter. Laguna de Taraje (NW10) is a good spotfor this species throughout the year. In autumn I have seen small flocks congregating on some ofthe drier salinas in Cadiz bay.

Collared Pratincole

This charismatic – and endangered – species can be found in good numbers in the marshes along the Guadalquivir. In spring I have found that the best place for good views is ‘Martin Miguel’ pools (NW2.2), but Mesa de Asta Marsh (NW3), Brazo del Este (SV2) and a number of otherssites are also excellent.

Kentish Plover This charming wader is under huge pressure due to increasing human use of its natural habitat – sandy beaches. For example, since the boardwalk at Playa de los Lances was constructed in 2008 numbers of birds present there have dropped from 100-150 to only 20-30. Large numbers (c2,000) still winter in the Bahia de Cadiz (which has just over 400 breeding pairs and is, after the Ebro delta, the second largest population in Spain) and relatively undisturbed salinas continue to hold many birds, but they are disappearing from beaches along the coast.

Marsh Sandpiper

A scarce passage migrant with even fewer (averaging 4 birds, max. count 12) wintering theGuadalquivir marshes.

Wood Sandpiper

Mainly a passage migrant although a few winter visitor to the Guadalquivir marshes

Temminck’s Stint

Scarce passage migrant & winter visitor to the Guadalquivir marshes

Audouin's Gull

With a population of less than 1,000 pairs in the late 1960s this was once a very rare bird, but following an enormous population increase (now c20,000 pairs) they began to appear hereregularly from the 1980s. Most birds breed on the Ebro delta and winter on North Africa's Atlanticcoast, hence there's a strong passage through the straits (July-August) and a less obvious returnpassage (Feb-April). Some winter in the straits. Playa de los Lances (SW11), if undisturbed, can begood as can Cabo de Trafalgar (SW5), if shallow rain filled pools beside the road are full, Barbateestuary (SW 6) and Tres Amigos Salt pans (NW14.1). Can be seen on whale watching trips fromTarifa.

Slender-billed Gull

For most of the 20thC only a few pairs bred in Spain, but since the 1980s they have increased enormously (although there are still fewer than a dozen breeding sites). Birds breed in the Marismas del Guadalquivir, Veta La Palma (across the Guadalquivir from Trebujena) and Bonanza saltpans. In none of these colonies do birds breed every year (although some non-breeding birds willbe present) and numbers at Bonanza (NW2.3) fluctuate between zero and100+ pairs. La Tapa (NW13.2), Santa Maria saltpans (NW11) and elsewhere in Cadiz Bay can also be good (esp. spring & autumn). Gull-billed Tern

Mesas de Asta Marsh (NW3) is undoubtedly the best site to see this species, but it can be observed anywhere along the Guadalquivir in spring/summer.

Caspian Tern

A widespread if scarce migrant & wintering species (c100 in Cadiz Bay in autumn and c60 winter esp Chiclana & Sancti Petri, also Palmones (SW15). Has bred in Spain and I'm told they mayhave done so at Bonanza (NW2) in 2009.

Lesser-crested Tern Small numbers of migrants pass through in spring and rather more (but still in relatively few) in late summer/autumn: Playa de los Lances (SW9.2) is often regarded as the best location for this species, but Chipiona/Montijo/La Jara (NW1) has a good track record although less closely watched; regularly recorded during ringing sessions on a private site on Salinas de Tapa (NW14.2).

Whiskered Tern

Donana has by far the largest breeding population in Spain (although much smaller than it was in the early part of the 20th C). It's fairly common in marshy areas [e.g. Bonanza (NW2), Brazodel Este (SV4)] and most lagunas (esp. spring and autumn) – a few birds winter.

White-winged Tern

A few birds pass through with migrant Black Terns (the latter being a common migrant).

Black-bellied Sandgrouse

A very rare bird in Cadiz and classified as ‘in danger of extinction’ in Andalucia. Possible, but a longshot in the Seville farmlands. The Andalucian population has recently been counted resulting in afigure of 697 birds – mostly to the east of the area. An earlier estimate suggested 450 breeding pairsin Andalucia with 200 pairs in Granada, 100 pairs in both Jaen and another 100 in Almeria. Thus onlyc50 pairs are thinly spread between twenty 10 km squares in Huelva, Seville, Malaga and Cordoba.Seville province, with a dozen of the squares, possibly has the bulk of these birds. Two of theoccupied squares are around Los Palacios-Utrera, seven form a string running from Marchenatowards (and beyond) Ejica and three a tightly packed squares are aound Guadalcanal in the NW.Local extinction looks a possibility. I have seen them near Laguna de los Ojuelos (SV 5.2 g) in 2005and closer to La Lantejuela in February 2013 (SV5.1 f). A flock of 18 were seen in the area in March2012.

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse

I have found this an annoyingly elusive species although I am less often in Spain at the best timeto find it (Feb/March). It is said to be found mainly in poor saline areas close to the Guadalquivir(NW2.5), Trebujena marshes (NW2.6), Casablanca (NW4) and around Lebrija (SV1) . Check outthe dry former river channels north of Lebrija. Winter (esp. late Feb) is the best season in which tofind them & knowing the call is the best way to locate them. A recent survey puts the relativelyisolated, but concentrated, Andalucian population at between 400 - 600 birds. Of the 19 occupied10 km squares shown in the region all but four are in the lower Guadalquivir valley (in the Coto,around Trebujena and up to Los Palacios area – the remainder thinly spread in the Marchenalowlands as per Black-bellied). Ring-necked Parakeet I

Far less frequent in the larger towns of the area than the following species

Monk Parakeet I

Widespread in the larger towns of the area (esp. Cadiz)

Great Spotted Cuckoo

Not a regular breeding bird in the area, although they have bred near Bonanza. They pass through on migration in limited numbers. Spring migration can start as early as late December.

Scops-Owl Absent in the NW of the province and only thinly distributed elsewhere – more likely in the coastallowlands such as Tarifa, Bolonia and similar places. Breeds in Los Barrios. Few winter

Eagle-Owl

A good population exists locally, but seeing them – other by sheer good luck - is difficult. Visiting the area’s large municipal rubbish tips may increase your cnahces of a sighting e.g. at Los Barrios rubbish tip (SW18) and near the turning for Santa Maria Salinas (NW15.1).

Marsh Owl R

Reported a number of times from La Janda in the 19th Century and possibly formerly a regularvisitor. Last recorded in Cadiz Bay in 1998; a dream find, but decreasing in Morocco.

Red-necked Nightjar

Far commoner in Spain than sometimes realised – Cantarranas (SW3) is my favoured spot, but theycan be found along the Alcalá-Benalup road (SW1), near Lagunas de Puerto Real (NW10) on LaJanda or in similar (i.e. sandy) habitats elesewhere.

Nightjar

Migrant; note that the stridulations of some insects in the area are very similar to its song

Alpine Swift

Although Grazalema (E3) & Gibraltar (E8) hold the nearest breeding colonies, Alpine Swift can beseen almost anywhere in the area (inc over my house in Alcala), but particularly over large bodiesof water. Appears as early as late February/March.

Pallid Swift

Appears earlier than its Common cousin arriving in late February and in numbers in March (Common Swift arrive in late March, in strength in April). The town square (and viewpoint) in Arcos dela Frontera can be particularly good for getting close views of this species, but it can be seen in manyof the towns of the area; tends to favour coastal localities. Be aware that in strong direct sunlight Common Swift can seem surprisingly pale to northern birders!

Little Swift R

A new colonist first noted in the 1990s. Since 2000 reported from Malaga, Algeciras, the mouth of the Guadalquivir (NW1), Sierra de la Plata (SW8) and sierras beyond Seville, but still fewer than 30 pairs. Personally, I’ve found it can be quite elusive at the best known site (SW8) and find Chipiona (NW1) a much better place to look. I have had up to 17 birds here and others as many as

24! Unlike White-rumped Swift it is a resident species so also present in winter. As with the following species remember that this is an extremely rare (= schedule 1) bird so do not approach the nests not even for photographs!

White-rumped Swift

With only 100-150 pairs spread across western Andalucia and Extremadura White-

rumped Swift remains a rare bird. It originally colonised Sierra de la Plata (SW8), but now thinly spread in Alcornocales (c30 pairs) and Grazalema. They exploit Red-rumped Swallow nests esp under bridges and culverts. Since this is the Spanish equivalent of a ‘Schedule 1’ bird, do not climb up to the famous cave entrance at SW8. They arrive in late April/May (rarely March) and depart in September.

Bee-eater

A widespread bird, esp. common during migration. The lovely rippling liquid notes mean that they are more often heard before they are seen.

Hoopoe A common migrant, but less common breeding bird (mainly in east of the province esp. in sandyareas such as SW3 or NW2.4). A few winter.

Great-Spotted Woodpecker

A few local birds may closely resemble the North African races showing a broad red band across thechest.

Iberian Green Woodpecker

A good bet for a ‘split’ since it as much resembles Grey-headed as Green Woodpecker. Fairlycommon, but it’s not always easy to see sufficiently well to note its distinctive features. Common inGrazalema (E3), but scarce or absent from the southern half of the province. However, it seems tobe spreading here as I have seen/heard them at La Teja (SW16), heard several at Bolonia (SW8)and saw several near Benalup (SW2) despite not being present in the area according to the Spanishbird atlas.

Short-toed Lark

More widespread and catholic in its habits than Lesser being found on open pasture, dried muddyarea, etc. Only present in summer. Abundant on Bonanza/Trebujena Marshes (NW2), in CadizBay (NW15) and elsewhere.

Lesser Short-toed Lark

Resident – I usually have little trouble finding them along the Guadalquivir (e.g NW2.3, & NW2.5) or at the Salinas de Santa Maria NW15.1). Unlike Short-toed they are not usually in pastures, but prefer drier saline area. Both commonly seen on tracks.

Thekla Lark

Most confidently identified in the mountains where Crested not present although found at low levelaround Tarifa! Some books suggest that it favours the salinas of the Coto Donana, but Garcia &Patterson insist it’s not found there. Most of the larger larks I’ve seen there have been Crested, but Ihave seen a few birds I consider to have been Theklas. I usually see the species in the Ojen valley(SW17) esp at the western end near and beyond the venta. Another good spot is the venta aboveUbrique (E2).

Red-rumped Swallow

The least common of all the hirundines, but fairly widespread; very few may winter. Another recentcolonist which apparently only really started to expand in numbers in the 1920s/30s.

Tawny Pipit

A rather scarce summer visitor to the southern third of Cadiz province, but can be common in small pockets e.g. near Marchenilla (E6) and in the Ojen valley (SW17) esp at the western end andnear Jimena (E6)

Rufous Bushchat

A declining species with local strong holds around Los Palacios-Marchena (SV1), Jimena (E6) and along the Tarifa-Bolonia coast (SW8). Laguna de Mejorada near Los Palacios (SV1) is probably THE place to see it, but people rarely seem to look elsewhere! They can be surprisingly elusive and it pays to look earlier in the morning. Knowing the song (to my ears an amalgam of Robin and Song Thrush!) helps. They appear to like parched vineyards, open, rocky areas with some bushes (olives) and dry stream beds. Some sites given in older references (e.g. Laguna de Medina) no longer seem to have the species.

Alpine Accentor

A regular wintering species in Grazalema esp. Puerto de la Palomas (E3) & Llanos de Libar (E4)where birds have also been found singing in May hinting that it may be a very scarce or irregularbreeding species there. I have also found them on the relatively inaccessible and rarely birded hightops of the Alcornocales in winter.

Black Wheatear

A declining resident. According to the Cadiz bird atlas a few still breed in the south of the province and the species was seen in the hills near Tarifa in 2009, but realistically you need to goover to Grazalema (E3) to guarantee seeing them as they are still a common species in rockyhabitats there.

Black-eared Wheatear

Generally fairly common, but apparently declining in many areas. Sometimes elusivein late summer. Populations seem to fluctuate from year to year; in 2009 I saw more than everaround Alcalá and elsewhere, but had very few in the same area in 2011.

Rock-Thrush Scarce summer visitor to Grazalema – Llanos de Libar (E4) seems to be one of the more reliablesites, but you need a little luck to track one down..

Blue Rock-Thrush

A common resident bird is suitable rocky habitats in the Alcornocales (E2 & SW16), Grazalema (E3 &E4), Sierra de la Plata (SW8) and Castellar (E7). Has bred around the castle ruins in Alcala de los Gazules, but seems to have declined in the area as also now elusive in the Molinos valley.

Savi's Warbler

Although I’ve heard them at the far end of Laguna de Medina (NW8), I’ve only actually seen them at Brazo del Este (SV4). It is certainly an elusive and scarce species, but perhaps anoverlooked one.

Sedge Warbler

Common migrant

Moustached Warbler LR

Something of a mystery species in the area. Some sources claim that it is a regularly seen atvarious sites (and even that it breeds widely on the Coto Donana). However, neither thenational nor the Cadiz province breeding birds atlas show it as being present. According toreputable local birders and ringers, it is no more than a very rare visitor most often found in thelate autumn/winter (with most turning up in nets). Unfortunately, the notion that it is a moreregular species here seems so well entrenched that casual sight records are rarely fullydocumented.

Fan-tailed Warbler (Zitting Cisticola)

Abundant is a variety of lowland habitats. Easily located by its ‘zit-zit-zit’ call as it bounces heavenward on an invisible bungee!

Melodious Warbler

Very common in scrubby habitats; can look very ‘washed out’ (c.f. Olivaceous). Its chortling song can be mistaken for that of a sylvia warbler (partly due to its habit of mimicry).

Olivaceous Warbler

Although thinly spread throughout the area and common in the right habitat, there appear to be veryfew ‘known’ sites. In part this is due to the fact that most birders only look at well known ‘honey-pot’sites like Languna de Mejorada (SV1). However, I have found them at many sites simply by lookingin extensive tamarisk scrub –their favoured habitat . One good site is Laguna de Cigarrera (NW7)

whilst almost any tamarisk clogged riverbed in Seville province harbours a few pairs. It may beoverlooked, but the appearance of several pairs at the well watched Laguna de Medina (NW8) inrecent years suggests a recent expansion as Garcia & Paterson do not mention it here. Apparentlyalso common in the river valley near Montejaque esp. below Cueva del Gato (see E4). Best pickedup by song which sounds like a blend of Melodious and Reed Warbler.

Orphean Warbler

A thinly distributed species which appears to like open hillsides dotted with wild olive trees.My only regular site is in Llanos de Libar (E4). Also reported from the woods as you drive towardsCastellar (E7) but they are certainly present closer to hand let me know if you find them elsewhere!Song is like a disjointed Blackcap with distinctly Blackbird like notes.

Subalpine Warbler

Not a common breeding species in Cadiz province away from Grazalema area although it passesthrough on migration. The nearest site where I’ve seen them regularly and easily is the Llanos deLibar

Dartford Warbler

A common, if often elusive, species in low scrubby habitats. Look for them in low (c1m) open scrub (esp. Gum Cistus) particularly in the morning in calm weather.

Sardinian Warbler

Abundant resident

Spectacled Warbler

An early migrant that is usually not difficult to find in the salinas along the Guadalquivir, (NW2.3/5/6) but a few also occur in the mountains of Grazalema (E3/E4) and into Malaga province. I’ve recently been told that it also breeds in scrubby margins on La Janda (SW7) where, embarrassingly, I’ve failed to find it (… but Garcia & Paterson don't mention it either!)

Iberian Chiffchaff

A cryptic species which has a somewhat disjointed distribution in Spain. Common in the woodlands of the Alcornocales (SW16 & E2), perhaps a little less so in Grazalema (E3/4). Generallyarrives in March (though the first few appear in mid-February) and largely go by the end ofSeptember, but parameters probably still being worked out. Replaced by ‘Common’ Chiffchaff inwinter. Diagnostic song and call. Spring adults tend to be greener/yellower than Common Chiffchaffwith a slimmer, more obvious neck.

Common Chiffchaff

See above

Nuthatch

Rather surprisingly a recent colonist to the Alcornocales (SW16 & E2) where it is now common.

Short-toed Treecreeper

The only treecreeper present in the area.

Wallcreeper LR

Although this species has been only very rarely recorded in the region, a bird wintered in Llanos de Libar, Malaga (E4) in 2008/9 and another in 2009/2010. Given the numerous cliffs and rocky areas and the scarcity of birders it may be more frequent than records suggest.

Penduline Tit

Winters on many of the lagoons in the area - Lagunas de Medina (NW8) & de Tarelo (NW2.4) - wherethey might also breed in some years. Regular breeder in the Brazo del Este area (SV4) and may welldo so elsewhere occasionally (e.g. Laguna de Medina).

Blue Tit

I have been told that the North Africa race (now ‘split’ by some authorities) has turned up in the area, but I have seen no substantiated reports. Great Tit is widespread in woodlands and Crested Tit only a little less so, but Coal Tit is restricted to Grazalema.

Golden Oriole A common if sometimes elusive – found particularly in the east of the Province

Iberian (Southern) Grey Shrike

Note that this is the ONLY ‘grey shrike’ in the area; more widespread on passage & in winter.Note that Lesser is restricted to NW Spain (where its nearing extinction) and old records ofGreat Grey are difficult to judge since the ‘split’ was not widely recognised until recently. Mainlyrestricted to Grazalema (E3/4) as a breeding species, but they disperse widely duringpassage/winter.

Woodchat Shrike

Common but declining – be aware that despite breeding in northern Spain Red-backed Shrike are extremely rare here as the species migrates south-east via Egypt (it's a vagrant to Morocco). Any claims of juvenile Red-backed must exclude this species.

Common Bulbul

Although common just across the strait in North Africa, this species is a rare vagrant to Spain. Since 2013 a pair bred near Tarifa and in 2015 several more were reported. This North African species maybe in the process of colonising Spain.

Azure-winged Magpie

Within Cadiz restricted to La Algaida pine woods (NW2.4) where it is often very difficult to find. Ihave spent 5-6 hours looking here without success, but then had one fly over the car as I went toleave! Others have looked a dozen times without success. If seeing one is a priority then pop over tothe Coto ‘proper’ where it is common (or drive to the mountains north of Seville or the hills north of

Fuente de la Piedra) . A pedestrian ferry regularly runs across the Guadalquivir from Sanlucar to theNational Park. Officially it’s only possible to walk along the beach but the pines there may harbourthis species.

Raven

This is the only large all dark crow, neither Carrion Crows nor Rook occur other than as rarities

Spotless Starling

THE starling of the area, (although it was very scarce in the southern part of Cadiz until the 1920s). Remember, though, that ‘our’ version is found in winter. Given the brazen nature of itscousin, it tends to be oddly shy and wary – particularly if you point a camera at it!.

Starling – common in winter

Common Waxbill IRed Avadavat I

Black-headed Weaver

Yellow-crowned Bishop I

All four of the above species have been accidentally introduced and appear to be thriving in damp wetland areas Waxbill seems the most widespread (NW2.4 Algaida, NW2.3 Bonanza, NW2.4 LagunaTarelo, SV1 Laguna de Mejorada & SV4 Brazo del Este). The bishop and the weaver are most frequently seen at Brazo del Este – note that some weavers appear to have pale eyes contra illustrations in most field guides. CRed Avadavat appears least successful in the area.

Spanish Sparrow

This species seems to have increased in recent years (although it may have been overlookedpreviously), but is still relatively localised in Cadiz province. Large eucalypt stands shelter largeflocks of sparrows amongst which, with patience, a few Spanish Sparrows can often be found.Regular near Benalup (SW2), on La Janda (SW7), Espera (NW6) Laguna de Cigarrera (NW7),Espera (NW6) and on the track to Laguna de Taraje (NW10). Commoner in the southern part ofSeville province esp. Brazo del Este (SV2) and along tamarisk choked river beds. Tree-Sparrow

A rather scarce species in general, but numerous pairs breed in nest boxes in the Pinar de MonteAlgaida (NW2.4)

Rock Sparrow

A very scarce species in Cadiz province being mainly restricted to the NE corner of the province, but several birds seen in the Molinos valley in April 2005. Common in Llanos de Libar (E4)

Rock Bunting

Thinly spread in the Alcornocales NW16/E2), but evidently thicker on the ground in Grazalema (E3).

Appendix 3 – 10 ideas for non-birding partners

1 – Caños de Meca & El PalmarSpending all day on the beach is my idea of hell, but I’m told some people likeit! These beaches near Vejer said to be the best. Alternatively, try Sanlucar which has some great ice cream parlours and sea food restaurants! Nearby Chipiona is only for the serious beach fan as it gets incredibly packed in the summer.

2 – Vejer de la Frontera

A charming and cosmopolitan small town which is pleasant to wander round – try eating at La Casa de Califa.

3 – Jerez de la Frontera

Enjoy tapas at the iconic Gallo Azul, visit a sherry bodega, pop into the castle, drift into the old covered market and be sure not to miss popping into the local branch of “Zara” which is housed in a fine old palacio. Bibliophiles will want to pop into 'Libreria Agricola de Jerez' Calle Paul (near the bull ring) which has a good stock of wildlife books (mainly but not exclusively in Spanish), guides and maps.

4 – Cadiz

A wander round the old town & cathedral is a must as is a visit to the camera obscura housed in a typical old watch tower. Beaches here are also popular.

5 – Seville

Famous for having the only building depicted in the Collins Bird Guide! One of Spain’s great cities – the Alcázar and its extensive grounds is not to be missed andnor is Casa de Pilatos.

6 - Baelo Claudia

A superb Roman ruin with a size 2 museum housed in a size 10 building in the shell of a planned hotel which, unusually, the authorities stopped being completed.

7 – Arcos de la Frontera

A stunning location with attractive narrow streets – park at the bottom, don’t try to drive up to the top of the town. The view from the mirador at the top is bettered only by that from the nearby church tower.

8 – Ronda

A long trek through the mountains but the town’s situation on the El Tajo gorge is breathtaking. Don’t miss the stunning Moorish Palacio de Mondragón

9 – Cueva de la Pileta (Off the MA 8401 SW of Ronda)

Take a jumper & a torch – the long dark walk through the cave alone is worth the journey, but the cave paintings make it special. If this is too far try the Tajo de las Figuras (c7km south of Benalup on the CA212) – park in the nearby camping/picnic site & walk through.

10 – GibraltarGo on you know you want to! British beer, M&S, Morrison’s, etc. and those infamous apes!

Afterword and AcknowlegementsWhat started out as three or four pages of notes on the birds around Alcalá for my personal interest and that ofvisiting friends has just kept growing. Not that’s it’s finished, but at least it’s now in a reasonably usable &organised form. I will certainly add more information as I continue to explore the area. Anyone who’s ever visitedthe region owes a huge debt to the pioneering work of Ernest Garcia and Andy Patterson whose “Where towatch birds in Southern Spain” is a landmark publication. These notes are no substitute for that book – ifyou’ve not got a copy go and get one! Even if you’ve already got an old edition, shell out for the much improvedlatest edition. Other volumes published on this area have also been extremely useful (see Introduction).

A number of people have also provided information (either in person or via the internet) to make these notesmore complete than they would otherwise have been. Others have been kind enough to join me on my birdingjaunts out to Spain. I am particularly grateful to those who have sent me feedback on earlier versions of thesenotes. So thanks go to Alejandro Onrubia. (via Eddy Eyles), Geoff Bates, Richard Bonser, Jack Chantler, PhilChantler, Paul Cropper, Stephen Daly, Lance Degnan, Eddy Eyles, Robin Griffiths, Dirk Hilbers, Stewart JHingston, Jim Hodgkinson, John Hollyer, Alf King, Ian Kinley, Alan Livingstone, Robin Mace, Norman McCanch,Tony Morris, Peter Jones, Oli Reville, Jeffrey Saez, Anthea Skiffington & Steven West. Niels Larsen kindlyfollowed up my request for corrections by sending me a list of typos and bloopers for my attention whilst Markusand Dorte Sarnow and Jean Baptiste Martineau also sent a detailed list of points and updates – I wish allreaders were so helpful. Special thanks are due to Luis Miguel Garrido not only for information about the area,but also for his excellent company; I’ll try not to gabble too fast in English next time we meet!

Naturally, though, I must thank my wife Liz for putting up with more birding than any non-birding spouse shouldreasonably be subjected to particularly when on holiday. Also for enduring the great Ruppell’s Vulture chase forthree days (one of which was our wedding anniversary). Thanks too for allowing me to hog this computer.

John Cantelo Oct 2015

The view from Alcala in early spring

About the Author

John Cantelo has been a birdwatcher for as long as he canremember which, as he's now tottering into his dotage,means he's been interested in birds for approaching sixdecades. By profession a History teacher, he has beenboth a Group Leader and part-time Field Teacher for theRSPB. He has served on the Kent Ornithological Society'sExecutive Committee and was the newsletter editor for thesociety for several years. Now retired, when not in Spain heedits books in the 'Crossbill Guides' series for whom he co-authored the guide on the 'Andalusian Sierras'. He iscurrently part of a team working on a new guide to wildlife inAndalucia for the Crossbill Guides. Although having firstvisited Spain in the late 1960s, life, work, children and amortgage meant he didn't visit the country again until 2001.However, he has birded in Spain every year since and afterbuying a house in Cadiz province in 2005 has visited theprovince 3 or 4 times annually. Despite what his wifeclaims, he isn't obsessed with birding in Cadiz Province; hejust gives a good impression of being so!