C-1 Pedestal Installation Instructions:

Just out of the mold it is about 4 1/4" high at the front of the seat…

The pedestal seat is approximately 9" wide at the front and 6" wide at back.

…with a 1/2" upward slope to the back of seat.

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1. Cut your seat down, evenly around the bottom, to your desired front height.

• Be sure to account for the height of any foam that you wish to add to the top of the seat for both comfort and torso shock absorption. For example, if you want a seat that is 5 inches high (in total) and you want 1 inch of foam as cushion, cut your seat down to 4 inches. • TIP: For more flexibility, cut your seat down lower than you think you may need it and then adjust the height by adding or removing foam at your discretion. • TIP: once you glass the seat in place it will be a royal pain in the @!#$ to remove it. Take extra time and care (the first time) to be sure it is positioned correctly in the boat and cut to the appropriate height! • TIP: cut your seat to height by using a jigsaw with an 18-20 TPI (teeth per inch) steel cutting blade. • Note, you may need to further trim the seat to fit the curvature of the hull – see step 4.

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2. Determine a center line for the inside of boat. (hint: put a center mark on the cockpit and drop a plumb bob)

Center Line

Mark center of boat on the cockpit rim and drop plum bob to establish Center Line

Note: back of seat is flush with back of cockpit see Step 3.

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3. Determine where the stern upright engages the back of the seat, and cut a notch out of the seat to receive the upright. Position the back of the seat flush with the back of the cockpit. Later on, use foam to adjust your forward position. This will allow you to position your body weight to the very back of the cockpit rim if required. If you are certain that you want your body weight more forward, then you can move the seat position forward beyond the flush line but realize that the back structure of the seat will then limit how far you can adjust your weight backwards. We recommend establishing your seat position in whitewater prior to installing a permanent seat.

4. Since the inside hull of your boat is probably not flat, you may need to trim some off of the bottom of your seat in the appropriate places. (the C-1 shown above required about a 1/8" cut of curvature from the outer sides)

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Center Line

Cut Notch Here

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5. Once the seat is cut down to your desired height, add side and center drain holes on the BOTTOM for easy water movement and drainage. (the center drain hole will allow you to sponge out your boat while strapped in.)

Your seat will come with 4 drain holes: two on the top, and two on the sides.

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Top Drain Holes

Upper Side Drain Hole

Upper Side Drain Hole

Bottom Side

Drain Hole Bottom

Side Drain Hole

Bottom Center Drain Hole

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7. Sand the bottom 1" of the seat, and the hull of the boat 1” around the seat. This will allow for proper adhesion of resin and seam tape to the hull and seat.

8. Use super glue or 1-minute epoxy to glue the seat in position at all four corners. Hold the seat in place until it has cured. This will keep the seat stationary while doing the kevlar seam work.

6. Once your seat fits the hull properly, with only minor gaps on the bottom, mark off the final seat position on the hull of the boat.

9. Glass the seat in place. Use 1" kevlar seam tape on the front, 1-1/2" kevlar seam tape on the back and sides, and a 1" piece of kevlar seam tape between the stern upright and the seat. Leave a gap at the drain holes (no seam tape) to allow water to fully drain out. Finally cover the wet kevlar with peel ply (this gets peeled off after drying, leaving a smooth finish). • TIP: Use Kevlar bias (biaxial) seam tape if possible as this will form a tough connection and will lay up very easily around the curves of the seat.

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10. Finish the seat by adding foam. Add foam on top of seat under the stern deck/cockpit. Use a thick piece of foam that will completely fill the gap between the seat and the deck to form a snug, solid connection. Next, outfit the seat for your required forward/back body position and cover the seat with the foam thickness of your choice.

11. If desired, add foot padding (1/4" neoprene foam works best) to the hull beside the back of the seat on both sides. Be sure to cover the kevlar seam with a 2-1/2" wide strip of neoprene foam on both sides - your feet will thank you.

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Seam Tape

Bottom Drain Holes – NO SEAM

TAPE!

Add Foam Between the Top of the Seat

and the Deck

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The Finished Seat (with just installed hip blocks)

Another Finished Seat

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