Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Ocean Views 2015

The White Beaches of Alabama!

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cated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.For more than 32 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and

byways of North America. Some of the most well-known — and least known — destinations to dis-cover in the United States and Canada.

Byways is published in two versions, a Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers,Android, iPhone and iPad. And a Apple Newsstand/App Store edition. All advertising, editorialand video is included in both versions of the publication.

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By Steve Kirchner, Editor & PublisherPREVIEW

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Welcome to Byways annualOceans View issue, featuringdestinations along the Pacific,

Gulf and Atlantic Oceans of NorthAmerica.

But first I want to welcome BillGraves to Byways. A veteran Naval

officer, Bill has spend the past 20 years after retirementtraveling the highways and byways of North America insearch of that great story to tell, and beginning with thisissue, he will bring that story to us! In keeping with theOceans theme, Bill travels to Cape Canaveral on theAtlantic, and we enjoy hisunique perfective on visitingthe Kennedy Space Center.

Byways cover story fea-tures the white sandy beach-es of Alabama on the Gulf ofMexico. This 32-mile stretchremained a little knownsecret until recent years, butthe word is out now. Thewhite sand is almost entirelycomposed of quartz grainswashed down from theApplalatian Mountains thou-sands of years ago, makingthis one of the finest beachesin the world. But there’s alotmore here than sand, as youwill discover.

Next, we head west to thePacific, as we Cruise the California coast on the CrownPrincess. Pat Woods returns to Byways as she joined3000 passengers and 1200 crewmen to travel theCalifornia coast by water. The seven day adventures fea-tures some of California’s most popular destinations,including San Francisco, Santa Barbara, and San Diego.

If you prefer to stay on land, we also visit California’sVentura County West. Just an hour north of Los Angeles,this little known region has retained its laid back, slowpaced California charm.

With 22 miles of uncrowded beaches, there are plentyof bike and walking paths, mountain views, and oceanadventures. And did we mention it’s the gateway to theChannel Islands National Park?

Next, we travel to Canada where Jennifer Maxwelltakes us on a journey to find Anne on Prince EdwardIsland. Can this place, famous for the classic Canadian

children’s book Anne of Green Gables, possibly live upto her expectations?

The final Oceans theme feature takes us to Virginia,where Pam Windsor tours the beaches of Virginia Beach,35 miles of coastline from the Chesapeake Bay to theNorth Carolina border. And we also learn about the his-tory and attractions that make Virginia Beach so popular.

In What’s Happening, we travel to Tennessee to dis-cover Music City Roots in Franklin. It’s just a short dis-tance from Nashville, which explains the depth of talentyou will find here. Music City Roots is a 2-hour weeklycelebration, broadcast nationally on PBS stations, ashowcase for the finest roots musicians locally or just

passing through theNashville area. Andyou’re invited to attendthe show and enjoy a fullmeal -- all for under$25.00.

But the fun doesn’t stopthere, as there’s plenty todiscover nearby. LikePuckett’s Grocery inLeiper’s Fork, theFactory in Franklin, andCarnton Plantation, homeof the Widow of theSouth. and one of thelargest Civil War battles.

The Birthplace ofTexas is open for busi-ness in Brenham. This iswhere the Republic of

Texas and the state of Texas were born. It’s great histo-ry, and well worth the trip to Washington on the Brazos.

But Brenham is also known as the home of Blue BellIce Cream, and the little creamery has suffered through amajor product recall. Fortunately, there are plenty of rea-sons to visit Brenham this year, as you will learn in thisarticle.

Finally, It’s not only the 50th anniversary of UniversalStudios Hollywood, but the countdown has begun on thenew World of Harry Potter, scheduled to open here in2016. Join the celebration as we travel to the magicalworld of Universal Studios Hollywood and Harry Potter!

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

The Wharf on Alabama’s Gulf Coast

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FeaturesOcean Views 2015 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8The Beautiful White Beaches of Alabama! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Cruising the California Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Along California’s Coast in Ventura County West. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Finding Anne on Prince Edward Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30The Beaches of Virginia Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

DepartmentsByways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

What’s HappeningDiscover Music City Roots, History in Franklin, TN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Birthplace of Texas Open for Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Universal Studios Hollywood Celebrates 50th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Coming in future issues of Byways…. . .Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, TheLeading North American Tour Destinations, and much more!

Next Up: Rivers & Lakes. Milwaukee’s beautifullakeshore and skyline.

Volume 32, Issue No. 3, 2015

On the cover. The white beaches of Alabama! The white beaches, madealmost entirely of quartz grains washed down from the Appalachian Mountainsthousands of years ago, are some of the finest in the world. Learn more aboutAlabama beaches and other Ocean destinations beginning on page 8.

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Ocean Views

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The beautiful white sand of the Alabama Gulf Coast as viewedfrom the Perdido Beach Resort in Orange, Alabama.

Byways photo.

The Beautiful WhiteBeaches of Alabama!

For many years, Alabama’s Gulf Shores and OrangeBeach remained a little-known vacation destina-tion, 32 miles of soft sand and clear waters that lace

the edges of the state’s southern border to the Gulf ofMexico.

The white, sandy beaches look and feel very differentfrom your traditional beach. Made almost entirely ofquartz grains washed down from the AppalachianMountains thousands of years ago, the white-sandbeaches that make up Gulf Shores and Orange Beachshorelines are some of the finest in the world.

And the sand feels different. It doesn’t stick to yourfeet, or sandals. There’s a clean feeling upon leaving thebeach. The showers are there to wash off, but it’s hard-ly necessary.

While well known as a regional destination, theAlabama Gulf is now attracting a broader range of visi-tors, as the region has expanded its tourism promotionefforts well beyond the state’s boundaries. And tourismnow plays a major role in the economy of Gulf Shores.

Despite some setbacks, the region is now thriving,with new hotel and condominium construction, newrestaurants, and new attractions dotting the landscape.The 2010 BP oil spill was expected to severely affectboth local real estate and beach tourism. However, the10 • Byways

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Alone on the beach. Photo courtesy GulfShores & Orange Beach Tourism.

tourism economy in GulfShores has returned to pre-spill levels.

The Gulf State Park boasts6,000 acres of land with milesof protected shoreline andwildlife exhibits. Check outthe Hugh BranyonBackcountry Trail (and itsmiles of scenic woodlandsand wetlands) or the 900-acreLake Shelby (a fisherman’sfavorite).

The Adventure Center at theGulf State is the Gulf Coast'snewest and most excitingprovider of outdoor adven-ture. Hummingbird Ziplinesconsists of 6 exciting ziplineswith four over the waters ofLake Shelby.

Cast your cares away whenyou cast your line during adeep-sea fishing adventure inOrange Beach, where the country’s largest artificial fish-ing reef awaits you. Or, hide a history lesson in a trip tohistoric Fort Morgan, the guardian of Mobile Bay since1834 and where four wars were fought. After a day of

adventure, refuel with seafood that doesn't get any fresh-er than right off the boat.

Chartered fishing boats and cruise boats for sunsets,dinner cruises, dolphin watching, and watersportsembark regularly, and the area is home to two of the top-

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An aerial view of the National Shrimp Festival.Photo courtesy Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.

Gulf Shores Steamer platter at SanRock Cay Marina.Seafood lovers can’t go wrong, and it’s only steamed

here. No fried on the menu! Byways photo.

rated golf resorts in the Alabama -- Craft Farms and KivaDunes.

There are a total of nine signature golf courses, as wellas a state-owned 18-hole course.

Don’t miss the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo, as featured inAnimal Planet’s The Little Zoo That Could, which workshard to bring visitors to the next level. Get up and per-sonal with lemur, kangaroo and even tiger cub encoun-ters, as this private zoo brings a unique experiencesimply unavailable at large, public zoos.

The city is home to an annual three-day music festivalon the beach each May, the Hangout Music Festival,which draws more than 40,000 visitors to the area. Andyou can hangout at the Hangout restaurant, a favoritegathering place and a major festival sponsor.

A visit to the Gulf Shores of Alabama will surpriseyou, and you’ll leave with a feeling of new discovery,that you’ve found a beach location that exalts beauty andquality, that allows you to forget those honky tonk beachexperiences of past years. And soon you’ll be tellingfriends and family alike of your new discovery.

http://www.gulfshores.com

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Coast Segway Adventures. Experienceguided segway tours through Gulf StatePark, while exploring often overlookedmarshes, sand dunes, swamps, an alligatoror two! Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

The view from thePerdido Beach Resortin Orange, Alabama.Byways photo.

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Coast at The Beach Club. Exceptionalatmosphere paired with fine diningoverlooking the Gulf of Mexico.

Byways photo.

A fishing charter in the Gulf of Mexico. Photo courtesy Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.

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View of the Crown Princess docked in San Diego shot from a HornblowerNorth Harbor sightseeing tour. Photo by Pat Woods.

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Cruising the California Coast

By Pat Woods

After several wonderful river and ocean cruises inEurope, we needed a break from costly andexhausting international travel getting to and

from European ports. A California Coastal cruise hadbeen on my radar several years.

When we found the right deal and itinerary for a 7-dayround-trip Los Angeles Princess cruise, husband Roband I grabbed it. With 3,000 passengers and 1,200 crewmembers, the Crown Princess is the largest ship onwhich we have sailed.

The Crown Princess atmosphere is embodied in thePiazza. More than a multi-deck atrium, something isalways happening in this European-inspired diningand entertainment venue. On the first formal night, thechampagne flowed freely during the Captain’s galawelcome reception.

Dozens of art works depicting European andMediterranean scenes enhance the Crown’s beautifulinterior. Along with customary large-ship features, theCrown has three pools and a large outdoor screen formovies, videos and sports events.

Crown Princess provides a bevy of tempting diningoptions. For lunch we favored the International Café’sspecialty salads, quiche and European-style pastries.We chose “Anytime Dining” for dinner and sharedtables with Californians, other Americans, Canadians,

Brits and Asians. Many tablemates were Princess regu-lars enjoying their loyalty perks.

A culinary highlight was a dinner at Sabatini’s, theship’s upscale Italian restaurant ($25 per person).Francesco, our skilled Italian waiter, made food and winerecommendations. The grilled zucchini and eggplantappetizers were perfectly done. Our artichoke souffléswere smooth and delicious. For our main course, I hadlobster, while Rob indulged in an improvised surf-and–turf lobster and grilled lamb.

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San Diego skyline view shot from the famous CoronadoBridge on an Old Town Trolley tour. Coronado Island isone of 11 trolley stops on the 25-mile route.

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After a relaxing day at sea, the Crown called on threeCalifornia ports.San Franciscowww.sanfrancisco.travel

In San Francisco, the Crown docked within easy walk-ing distance of the Aquarium on the Bay, Pier 39’s shopsand photo ops, as well as the many sightseeing options,sounds and aromas of bustling Fisherman’s Wharf.

We chose three of City Sightseeing’s hop on/off tours(www.citysightseeingsanfrancisco). During our livelydowntown tour, Zelda, our seasoned guide, shared fac-toids, trivia and colorful yarns about San Francisco’s his-tory and current happenings.

Next we headed to Sausalito on another CitySightseeing open-top bus. Sally, our cheerful and articu-late driver, shared tips on where to find free chocolatesamples as well as space on crowded cable cars. Afterstopping for photos north of the Golden Gate Bridge, shesaid Sausalito’s housing prices are as stellar as the gor-geous scenery.

Following a short Sausalito visit, we rode a third CitySightseeing bus to Muir Woods. Our driver skillfullynavigated the serpentine road while dispensing fascinat-ing local information. We thoroughly enjoyed inhaling

the fresh piney scent of the giant redwoods and othergreenery while hiking Muir Woods trails. The heavenlyscent of bay trees and coastal redwoods will linger in ourmemory bank.

We ended our San Francisco port day at the beautifulAquarium of the Bay on Pier 39 studying up-close viewsof our favorite sea critters. Santa Barbarawww.santabarbara.com

Local volunteers warmly welcomed us to SantaBarbara. An early morning trolley tour took us throughthis lush green city where palm trees sway and colorfulflowers bloom on terraces and medians. SpanishColonial architecture dominates here with countless red-roofed white stucco buildings.

The trolley driver told us many old talkie movies wereshot in Santa Barbara before production studios movedto Hollywood. Today this beautiful city still is favored bythe rich and famous. Prices for even tiny modest housesrange upward from 1 million. With 500 restaurants,Santa Barbara is a diner’s paradise. Paved walking/run-ning/skating trails run for miles, and beach volleyballbegan here.

The trolley stopped at Old Santa Barbara Mission,

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A musical group performsin San Diego’s Old Town,one of 11 scheduled stopson the Old World TrolleyTour. Photos by PatWoods.

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In San Francisco, the Crown Princessdocked within easy walking distance of

the Aquarium on the Bay as well asFisherman’s Wharf tour operators, attractions and delightful aromas.

Photo by Pat Woods.

which continues as an active Catholic parish with dailyand Sunday Masses. Sadly, the church interior was notopen during the 20-minute trolley stop.

Back at the waterfront, we walked out a long woodpier to Sterns Wharf. At Ty Warner Sea Center, wewatched school groups interact with sea critters in touchtanks. We caught a shuttle bus (Just 50 cents for adultsand 25 cents for seniors, but crowded with a big ship inport) to the courthouse. An elevator took us to the fourthfloor outdoor observation area, a favorite spot to enjoythe view and catch a cool breeze.San Diegowww.visitsandiego.org

The Crown conveniently docked at a prime spot onSan Diego’s waterfront. This beautiful port city had anearlier life as a tuna canning center. When the tuna sup-ply was depleted, the waterfront morphed into today’sattractive tourist center.

As we did in earlier visits, we opted for the Old WorldTrolley Tour that travels a 2-hour, 25-mile route throughthe city making 11 scheduled hop on/hop off stops(www.trolleytours.com). Before each stop, well-verseddrivers provide witty anecdotes, fun facts, and fascinat-

ing tales and weave history with current information onwhat to expect. Recorded theme music adds to the funatmosphere.

We got off the trolley at some of the most popularstops. At Coronado Island we walked through thegrounds and lobby of the world-famous Hotel delCoronado. We could have spent the entire day at BalboaPark, the nation’s largest urban culture park, home to 15museums, beautiful gardens, the San Diego Zoo andmore (www.balboapark.org).

In the afternoon we enjoyed a Hornblower north har-bor cruise narrated by a ship officer who pointed outnumerous military vessels in the harbor: a nuclear fueledsubmarine, carriers, plus several support vessels as wellas dry dock facilities. More information: 619-686-8715or (www.hornblower.com/home/sd)

All three California port cities warmly welcome cruis-ers, have moderate climates and gorgeous naturalscenery. How else can one unpack just once and experi-ence four Pacific coast cities in a week? The trolleyand/or hop on/hop off tours we took all were interesting,economical and enjoyable.

The California Coastal itinerary is a great option forfirst-time cruisers or anyone wanting to avoid the stress,

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Visitors can take a City Sightseeing San Francisco bus to walk among thegiant redwoods in beautiful Muir Woods, a national monument north of the

Golden Gate Bridge. Photo by Pat Woods.

fatigue and expense of international travel. Next year wewill search for another “closer to home” cruise. ForPrincess cruise information, call 800-774-6237 or visitwww.princess.com.

About the Author. Based in thePhoenix area, Pat Woods has pennedscores of cruise, rail and travel features.You can see more of her work at:

www.clippings.me/users/patwoods

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This scene near Sausalito, shot from a San Francisco CitySightseeing bus, is one many visual treats north of SanFrancisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Photo by Pat Woods.

The Old Santa Barbara Mission,one of the city’s top tourist attractions, is a stop on theSanta Barbara Trolley tour. The Mission continues as anactive Catholic parish with daily and Sunday Masses.

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Along California’s Coastin Ventura County West

The Ventura coastline and PacificOcean as viewed from Grant Park.

Photo courtesyVenturaCountyWest.com.

Atrip to southern California often means the oblig-atory visits to Hollywood, Universal Studios andDisneyland, complete with crowds and traffic.

But only a little over an hour northwest of Los Angelesis a little known region that seems to have held onto thelaid-back, slow-paced California charm. CalledVenturaCountyWest, it features 22 miles of uncrowdedbeaches, plenty of beachside bike and walking paths,mountain views and ocean adventures, and is the gate-way to the Channel Islands National Park. Channel Islands

Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, ChannelIslands National Park is a group of five islands 11 milesoffshore. The islands are often referred to as“California’s Galapagos” due to their rugged shores andisolation. The Channel Islands are home to over 2,000plant and animal species, of which 145 are foundnowhere else in the world.

Daily tour boats bring individuals and groups to theselargely untouched islands. Along the way, visitors canspot sea lions, dolphins and when in season, migratinggray, blue and humpback whales. Once onshore, visitorscan take guided hikes, bird watch, fish or just explore.Swimming, kayaking and overnight stays (in tents) arealso popular.24 • Byways

The Channel Islands Lighthouse. Photos courtesy VenturaCountyWest.com.

Ventura Harbour Village

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Harbor LifeWhile working harbors, Channel Islands

Harbor in Oxnard and Ventura Harbor alsocater to tourists. Ventura Harbor Village con-tains an arcade featuring an old-fashionedindoor carousel and a candy shop with morethan 20 varieties of fudge made fresh daily.Visitors can rent paddle and electric boats totour the quiet harbor channels while watchingsea lions sun themselves on the docks. Notsurprisingly, both harbors feature restaurantsserving fresh catches.

The Ventura County Maritime Museum atChannel Islands Harbor attracts over 25,000visitors a year giving them a sense of theregion’s connection to the sea. Docents guidevisitors through the museum, passing mar-itime art and ship models while telling seafar-ing tales. In Ventura, the Channel IslandsNational Park Visitor Center has an up-closedisplay of marine aquatic life and clear views of theocean and islands from its open second floor.A Little Inland

The Santa Buenaventura Mission is a one-of-a-kindmuseum and a big draw in VenturaCountyWest.Founded in 1782, it was the ninth and last mission found-ed by Junipero Serra. It is known for its beautiful garden

and restored artifacts. Visitors are welcome from sunriseuntil sunset.

Look back at the fighting aircraft of World War II at theCommemorative Air Force Museum in Camarillo. Themuseum has everything from restored period planes toan array of military memorabilia. Volunteer docents leadtours and visitors can arrange to take a flight on one ofthe aircraft.

You don’t have to be a car buff to appreciate the beau-

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Herzog Wine Cellars,Oxnard, CA.

ty and workmanship of the cars on display at the MullinAutomotive Museum in Oxnard. The museum is a cele-bration of the Art Deco era of car making when automo-biles were works of art as well as machines. Visitorsadmire vintage Bugattis, Delages, Delahayes and Voisinsas well as racing cars that have taken the top prize atGrand Prix de Pau and the 24 Hours of Le Mans.Locally-Sourced Cuisine, BurgeoningWine Industry

Because of their close proximity to agriculture (morethan 125,000 acres are farmed in the county) and the sea,the many independent VenturaCountyWest restaurants

serve some of the freshest farm-to-table produce andlocally harvested seafood in the state. One way to expe-rience an abundance of the fresh tastes of the area is totake a half-day Ventura Food Tour. These organizedwalking tours of downtown Ventura combine local his-tory, culinary education and the tastes of area food. Thetours are available for individuals and groups on week-ends and some weekdays.

Most people think they have to travel far north of LosAngeles to reach wine country, but because of its strongties to the land, it makes sense that Ventura County isbecoming a popular wine tasting destination. TheVentura County Wine Trail features 18 wineries and tast-

26 • BywaysThe Mullin Automotive Museum in Oxnard.

The Santa Buenaventura Mission

ing rooms in the area. Group tours can be arranged sothere is no need to drive.

The largest winery is Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard.It is one of the only all-kosher wineries in the UnitedStates. During the week, visitors can see its state-of-the-art wine fermentation and bottling process in action, then

taste wine in a beautiful setting before enjoyingMediterranean-influenced cuisine at Tierra SurRestaurant inside the winery.

For more information on things to do and where tostay, go to www.VenturaCountyWest.com.

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Hikers on Santa Cruz Island. Photoscourtesy VenturaCountyWest.com.

The Camarillo Commemorative Air Museum

Florida is home to 17million people. Lastnight, Friday, I think

most of them were drivingaround Orlando. Trafficwas a mess; I performedmy role as a tourist by con-tributing to it.

Today, I’m not far fromOrlando, but what a con-trast. I am on a desolatepiece of beach, certainlythe longest such beach in

Florida, if not the East Coast. This is Cape Canaveral. Itappears on the map as a long island.

I am standing in the afternoon shadow of an Atlas VRocket. It’s 19-stories high. It took two years to build.By this time tomorrow, it will have done what it was builtto do and will have traveled thousands of miles to do it.

Its engines and boosters, generating over twomillions pounds of thrust, will send its satellitepayload on a brief journey that will end 22,236miles above the Earth. That’s 100 times higherthan the orbit of the Space Shuttle. The wholeoperation, from launch to spacecraft separation,will take three hours, one minute and 23.2 sec-onds.

It’s hard to comprehend that this massive rock-et will disappear tomorrow in less than a minute.Everything that we deal with on Earth -- except-ing organic material that nature consumes -- willend up somewhere, even if it’s a land fill. Butthis piece of Space Age hardware will just van-ish, leaving no sign, but a scorched launch pad,that it ever existed.

Final fabrication of the Atlas V is done inDecatur, Alabama, with parts coming fromCalifornia, Texas, Florida and Switzerland. Theengines are made in Khimki, Russia. They tellme that the Russians make the best rocketengines in the world. Some of the Russianbuilders are here today as observers, but theykeep to themselves.

I am here as a guest of United LaunchAlliance, a private company that now performsmost of the launches in the United States. Thelaunch sites are here at the Cape, and atVandenberg Air Force Base north of LosAngeles. The intended orbit of the vehicle deter-mines from where it is launched.

Following retirement from our space shuttleprogram, NASA has gotten out of the launch

business. Private enterprise is picking up the slack. ButNASA wrote the book on the subject, primarily mannedspace flight, and will always have a presence here, per-sonified today in the Visitor Complex at the KennedySpace Center.

Named for President John F. Kennedy, the Center isactually an installation that was the launch site for everyU.S. manned space flight beginning in 1958. It’s 34-miles long and six-miles wide. The Center is now thefocus for our civilian space program using three pads atthe adjoining Cape Canaveral Air Force Station.

The Visitor Complex just celebrated 50 years of spacehistory. Aside from two IMAX theaters, the ShuttleLaunch Experience ride, and other theme-park likeattractions, it offers a bus tour of the whole installation.

The bus stops at the Apollo/Saturn V Center, where aSaturn V rocket – like the one that sent our guys to themoon – fills the building. Were it not here, there wouldbe room for a football game.

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Traveling the Highways & Byways,with Bill Graves

Driving by the Vehicle Assembly Building, one of thelargest buildings in the world, the bus driver told us thatAmerican flag painted on the side of it is 20 stories tall.“Each star is six feet across,” he said.

At a pond we watched an alligator slide into the water.Seeing one of Earth’s oldest creatures here at the Cape,put a period perspective on this place: the site of man’sgreatest scientific achievements.

About the author: After seeing much of the world asa career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after heretired, to take a closer look at the United States. He hasbeen roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in amotorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in RanchoPalos Verdes, California and is the author of On the BackRoads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can bereached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

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Prince Edward Island. Photo courtesyCanadian Tourism Commission.

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Finding Anne onPrince Edward

IslandBy Jennifer Merrick

Canada

As I’m driving across the eight-mile longConfederation Bridge from New Brunswick toPrince Edward Island with my family, I’m wor-

ried that this province, which I have wanted to visit eversince I was a child and read the classic Canadian chil-dren’s book Anne of Green Gables, can’t possibly live upto my expectations. But when the red sands appear, andthey are exactly what I thought they would be, I know theisland won’t disappoint. And it doesn’t. 

It charms us. Of course, the island has changed along with the world

since the book was written in 1908, but Anne, Canada’sbeloved freckled red-headed heroine, is everywhere.

At least her spirit is, which lies in the young girl’s exu-berant zest for life and in her ability to wonder at thebeauty around her. So we find Anne not only in theCavendish tourist sites like Green Gables Heritage Placeand Avonlea Village, but also when we’re biking theConfederation Trail, where every turn reveals new viewsof the sea or fields edged with wildflowers, and when weget a close-up view of bald eagles on the red sands ofBoughton Island.

PEI has so many places with ‘plenty of scope for theimagination,’ as Anne would say, but here’s where wefeel her presence the most.Green Gables Heritage Place

A true Anne pilgrimage site, this historical house was

Lucy Maud Montgomery’s inspiration for Green Gables,Anne’s adopted home. Anne herself didn’t live here

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Green Gables Heritage Place.Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

Prince Edward Island scene. Photo courtesyCanadian Tourism Commission.

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because she was a fictional character(hard for Anne fans, myself included, toadmit this), but the details of theVictorian-decorated rooms hold true tothe book, including a puffed-sleeveddress.

We finish our visit with a walk throughthe Haunted Woods, where we wanderthrough Lover’s Lane and trails, wherethe author chose to set many of her sto-ries. Interpretive signs detail how theseplaces inspired the prolific author. “Thewoods always seem to me to have a deli-cate, subtle life all their own,” reads one,a quote from Montgomery’s diary.Avonlea Village

At this recreated early 20th-century vil-lage, the characters and the setting of thebook jump off the pages. We wanderthrough the buildings joining in the activ-ities that range from hands-on crafts andold-fashioned games to dress-up and the-atre. Actors do a wonderful job of stayingin character, so you can chat with Anne’s favoriteteacher, Miss Stacey, or see what trouble mean Josie Pyegets into. The highlight for the kids is the 1908 countyfair where they participate in potato sack and three-legged races and sack tosses. They love the pig race, too,a definite novelty for city slicker kids!

www.avonlea.ca

ConfederationTrail

Flat and scenic is agood combination fortwo wheels, andcyclists come from allover to ride theConfederation Trail, a470 kilometer recre-ational path. We rentbikes in Morell atKingfisher Outdoorsand enjoy Anne-wor-thy views as we cyclethe 15km to St.Peter’s, where we stop for one of the best fish and chipson the island, Rick’s Fish ‘n’Chips.

http://pointseastcoastaldrive.com/things-do/entry/confederation-trailhttp://kingfisheroutdoors.com/http://ricksfishnchips.com/ Cow’s Ice Cream

“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice creamwhich is the same thing,” reads one of the t-shirts atPEI’s celebrated creamery. My kids can’t agree more.We indulge more than once on our travels around theisland, and even bring home some of their dangerouslydelicious chocolate covered chips.

There are several locations, but if you’re interested indoing a tour visit the Cow’s Creamery.

www.cowscreamery.ca

Byways • 33

Anne’s Green GablesHeritage Place. Photo

courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

Digging Giant ClamsAnne would have thought this adventure as splendid as

do we. From the fishing village of Georgetown, locatedon the east side of the island, we hop aboard a lobsterboat, where we meet our captain, Perry Gotell, a fisher-man with long roots on the island and owner ofTranquility Cove Adventure. As we cruise to variousspots, Gotell tells us about lobsters, mussels and his ownchildhood spent clamming on Boughton Island.

But the real fun begins when we get the chance to digfor giant clams. Decked out in wetsuits and masks andsnorkels, we plunge into the cold water. One of the fish-ermen points to a small bubble in the sand and sureenough underneath is a giant clam, which is raked up andplunked into the bucket. I’m thrilled when shortly after-wards, I find my own clam without any help, as are the34 • Byways

Cavendish National Park. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

Avonlea Village.Photo courtesyJennifer Merrick.

kids and the others on the tour, and in no time we haveenough for our beach picnic.

My daughter and I stroll down the red, red, sand thatstretches for miles. We spot eagles in the distance andslowly advance towards them, curious to see how closeand we can get. Surprisingly, we edge to about 6 feet ofone of the majestic creatures before it takes flight. Mydaughter picks up a feather before we walk back to ourgroup, who is gathered around a large pot where thefreshly caught seafood is boiling.

www.tcapei.com ‘It’s delightful when your imaginations come true, isn't

it?’ says Anne.And Prince Edward Island is indeed delightful.

About the Author. After teachingEnglish as a Second Language abroadfor 7 years, Jennifer has now 'settleddown' in Toronto. But her feet continueto itch and she now travels whenevershe can with her family, writing abouttheir adventures in numerous diverse

publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, VirginAtlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young,Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today's Parent.

Byways • 35

Tranquility Cove Adventure’sPerry Gotell. Photo courtesyJennifer Merrick

36 • Byways

The sun sets on Virginia Beach, Virginia. Photo courtesy Pam Windsor.

Byways • 37

The Beaches of Virginia Beach

By Pam Windsor

Virginia Beach has always been a popular vacationdestination thanks to its beautiful, scenic beachescovering some 35 miles of coastline. From the

Chesapeake Bay to the North Carolina border there isplenty of sand and surf to enjoy.

The three main beaches – the Virginia Beach Resortarea, Chicks Beach, and Sandbridge – remain free andopen to the public. Each sports a character and style of itsown from the quieter, more tranquil settings of ChicksBeach and Sandbridge to the more active Virginia BeachResort with its popular three-mile boardwalk full ofhotels, shops, restaurants, food vendors, stages andevening entertainment.

In addition to swimming, sunbathing and surfing,tourists and locals alike come together here to walk, run,bike, and skate along the oceanfront. And while thewater and its many water-related activities serve as thebiggest draw, visitors soon discover Virginia Beach hasso much more to offer in the way of other attractions andsome unique American historical sights.Virginia Beach History

The first English settlers sailed into Chesapeake Bayand came ashore at Cape Henry on April 26, 1607. A lit-tle more than a month later, they established the firstAmerican settlement at Jamestown. That first landingsite is marked today by a big white cross not far from thewater.

The landing site is within walking distance of

America’s first government constructed lighthouse. TheCape Henry Lighthouse, commissioned by GeorgeWashington, began guarding the shores of theChesapeake Bay in 1792. No longer active, it’s still openfor tours and a climb to the top for an amazing panoram-ic view. It sits just across from the newer lighthouse that

38 • Byways

Sandbridge Beach.Photos courtesy Pam Windsor.

Inside the Old CoastGuard Station Museum.

Click for Video

replaced it, built later in 1881.The waters off the Virginia shore have had many sto-

ries to tell over the years through different points inAmerica’s history. Many are highlighted at the Old CoastGuard Station Museum on the Virginia BeachBoardwalk. Artifacts and displays help recount tales ofshipwrecks, German U-boats off the coast during WorldWar II, and real-life rescue efforts.Attractions

Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center helpsshine a light on the ocean and ocean life. One of the mostvisited aquariums in the nation, it features more than 300species of animals and includes an outdoor nature trailand aviary.

The Aquarium connects to an Adventure Park thatoffers people of all ages – 5 and up, a chance to test theirskills and flexibility on a variety of courses set up abovethe ground and throughout the trees. There are multiplezip lines and aerial rope challenges ranging from basic tomore advanced, allowing every member of a group orfamily a chance to take part.

Outdoor sports, both on the water and off, from hikingto kayaking to jet skiing and parasailing are very popu-lar throughout Virginia Beach. Rental equipment isavailable at local businesses throughout the area that arewell-marked and easy to spot.

Virginia Beach is well-known for its many localseafood restaurants offering culinary delights featuringthe day’s fresh catch. If you’re looking for a recommen-dation just look for the line at the door.The Beaches

Virginia Beach’s Oceanfront Resort stretches from 1stto 40th street and features open beaches, hotels, shopsand restaurants, and more. A 34-foot tall bronze statue ofKing Neptune – the mythical sea god – stands along theBoardwalk and welcomes visitors here. The beachfrontis just down below.

Sandbridge Beach – further south – sits between theAtlantic Ocean and Back Bay National Wildlife refugeand goes all the way to the North Carolina border. Itoffers a more tranquil island-like beach setting withoutthe hotels. Visitors here stay in big beachfront rentalhomes or condominiums, many just a short walk fromthe water’s edge.

Chicks Beach (short for Chesapeake Beach) also has aquieter, calmer beach setting. The area starts at theLynnhaven River Inlet and features gentle waves, breath-taking ocean views, and local hotspots. Many locals livehere and share the space with tourists.

The entire Virginia Beach area has a warm and wel-coming feel to it with a little something for everyone.Travelers heading to this part of the Atlantic Ocean cancertainly find their perfect spot.

About the Author. Pam Windsor isa travel and feature writer currentlybased in Murrells Inlet, SC. She enjoystraveling and writing about the fascinat-ing people and places she discovers.

Byways • 39Chicks Beach

Adventure Park connects to the VirginiaAquarium & Marine Science Center.

Discover Music CityRoots, History inFranklin, TennesseeIt’s a short hop, skip and jump from downtown

Nashville, but we discovered a gem in Franklin,Tennessee. Whether it’s a group, a family or an indi-

vidial, it’s an experience you won’t want to miss on yournext Nashville tour.

The venue is Music City Roots, a weekly celebration,a gathering of the community, and a showcase for thefinest roots musicians locally or just passing throughNashville. It’s held every Wednesday night at LibertyHall in the Factory in Franklin, and broadcast nationwideon the internet and many PBS Stations. Hosted byAmericana star Jim Lauderdale and announcer KeithBilbrey, Music City Roots has become a a point of dis-overy and a reliably great time for visitors and listenersalike.

And with a full 2-hour show plus a meal priced under$25.00 per person, this may be the best value inNashville!

Everyone knows that talent runs deep in Nashville, andthe line between the latest star country singer and the per-son waiting your table may be just the luck of the draw.

In fact, many country stars started out waiting tables!We’ve heard the story about Music City Roots host

Jim Lauderdale, one of Nashville’s most prolific songwriters. He was invited to record an album in California,and wrote every song. But when the studio listened tothe final version of the album, they decided against pro-duction. Later, another artist heard the story, and askedif he could record some of those songs. He did. Andevery song on the album became a Number 1 country hit,and the album became the music soundtrack for themovie, Pure Country. The artist? George Strait.

40 • Byways

A 2-hour show and full meal for under $25.00at Music City Roots. Byways photo.

Click for Video

It all comes together in Franklin, in WilliamsonCounty. And there’s a reason. Years ago the planners inWilliamson County realized that their close proximity toNashville would lead to mass suburbia, as developersbought up the lush farms to cater to Nashville’s growingpopulation. Instead, they enacted ordances which prohi-bilted the subdividing of properties, except in certainlocations such as the local towns like Franklin.

As a result, the county has become one of the mostattractive locations in Tennessee,and is now

the home ofmany of today’s leading country

singers and entertainers.It’s not uncommon to find some of today’s best know

entertainers jamming with those looking for their firstbreak. At Puckett’s Grocery in Leiper’s Fork, you canbuy groceries, a tank of gas, and catch up with friendsover a good meal. But what makes this store unique isthe small stage, and jamming sessions can go on forhours, and you’ll never know who’s going to show up.

Of course, if your interest is more than music, there’sa lot going on here. The Factory in Franklin is a complexof 11-depression-era buildings with 250,000 square feetwhich housed different factories over its industrial life-

time. It has now been renovated as a dining, retail, enter-tainment and educational center, retaining as much aspossible of the old factory look in each building.

Spend some time in downtown Franklin, a downtownthat looks and feels like small town America. Lunch atGray’s on Main, which was a landmark pharmacy fornearly a century.

Tour Arrington

Vineyards, and maybe meetup with Kix Brooks of the country duo Brooks &

Dunn, one of the vineyard’s partners.Finally, be sure and visit Carnton Plantation, home of

the Widow of the South, the New York Times best sellingnovel. On November 30, 1864, the 48-acre plantationhome served as a field hospital and final burial place fornearly 1500 Confederate soldiers who were killed at theBattle of Franklin.

For more on Music City Roots, visit musiccityroots.com. Contact Laurie Gredgory for Group Rates:laurie@musiccityroots.com.To learn more about Williamson County and Franklin,

visit www.visitwilliamson.com.

What’s HappeningWhat’s Happening

Byways • 41

Carnton Plantation, home of the Widow of theSouth. Photo courtesy Tennessee Departmentof Tourist Develoment.

Click for Video

If you ask a Texan where the birthplace of Texas is,they might do a double take, as they try to rememberthe right answer. They may need to consult the his-

tory books. Actually, the correct answer isWashington on the Brazos, in WashingtonCounty Texas, near Brenham, halfwaybetween Houston and Austin on Hwy. 290.

If you ask a Texan where the home ofBlue Bell Ice Cream is, they won’t hesitate.Brenham, Texas!

It’s ironic that this scenic and historicregion is known as much in Texas, andthroughout the South, for the little BlueBell creamery, which is now more than acentury old, than for its role in creating theTexas Republic, and then State of Texas.

Now, the area is coping with closure ofthe creamery and its wildly popular VisitorCenter while the company reponds to arecall of its products. As the creamery isone of the leading tourism atrractions in theregion, this year is a time to focus on histo-ry and all the many other reasons to travel

to this part of Texas.Visitors are encouraged to explore a myriad of family

friendly vacation opportunities – from ranch activities to

42 • Byways

Birthplace of TexasOpen for Business

Texas Cotton Gin Museum. Byways photo.

Bluebonnets and wild flowers in Washington County, Texas.

Click for V

ideo

movies in the park and geocaching to arts programs – alllocated in the idyllic setting of Washington County, TX.“We have so much to offer visitors toBrenham/Washington County,” said Page Michel, presi-dent of the Washington County Chamber of Commerce-Convention & Visitors Bureau. “We’re happy to shareour exciting Texas history, great outdoors and attractionswith others!”

Brenham/Washington County is in a scenic and his-toric region. A great getaway with over 30 bed & break-fasts, nine hotels, four wineries, historic DowntownBrenham, antiques shops galore, botanical garden attrac-tions, live theatre, museums and so much more!

Each spring, Bluebonnets and other wildflowersbloom with life and color in beautiful WashingtonCounty! The annual Bluebonnenet Festival has beenheld for more than 50 years, in the quaint, historic townof Chappell Hill, and is the Official Bluebonnet Festivalof Texas.

Nearby Burton is home to the Texas Cotton GinMuseum, the Official Cotton Gin Musem of Texas. Themuseum keeps the legacy of cotton alive for all genera-tions through the maintenance and preservation of the1914 Burton Farmers Gin -- the oldest operating cottongin in America.

Many Brenham residents who spent part of their child-

hood here have wonderful memories of riding the“Flying Horses” -- the antique carousel that sits in themiddle of Fireman’s Park. For many years, it has been ahighlight during community events and a standard forbirthday celebrations.

Now fully restored, all of the Flying Horses inBrenham’s Antique Carousel bear the running martigalelogo, which confirms they were carved by Charles Dare

Byways • 43

Independence Hall stands on the cornerstones of the original building,where the Republic of Texas was formed, and where Texas became Texas.

Flying Horses carousel.Byways photo.

sometime between 1867 and 1901, when Dare died. Thecarousel itself was definitely manufactured by C. W.Parker in Kansas; during the recent restoration, Parker’sstamp was found near the top of the turning mechanism.

But there’s much more to celebrate here. Enjoynational independence at the very sitewhere Texas gained its independence in1836: Washington on the Brazos StateHistoric Site.

Located midway between Houston andBryan/College Station on 293 acres oflush park land off Highway 290, the pic-turesque Washington on the Brazos StateHistoric Site gives visitors unique insightsinto the lives and times of the 59 delegateswho met on that very spot to make a for-mal declaration of independence for theRepublic of Texas from Mexico in 1836.

This is where Texas became Texas.This Texas State Park offers many

amenities and a variety of special eventsand activities throughout the year, at itsfour main attractions: the Star of theRepublic Museum, Independence Hall,

Barrington Living History Farm and Fanthorp Inn StateHistoric Site.

These are just some of the reasons to visit Brenhamand Washington County this year.

www.VisitBrenhamTexas.com

44 • Byways

Star of the Republic Museum houses a collection of exhibits,artifacts and documents relative to the time Texas was a nation.

Horse ranch and B&B nearBrenham. Byways photo.

Byways • 45

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptionsare complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store.

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Universal StudiosHollywood Celebrates 50th

The spotlight shines brightly on Universal StudiosHollywood as the world-class destination cele-brates a milestone 50th anniversary with the open-

ing of the “Fast & Furious—Supercharged” thrill ride,“Springfield,” an-all new immersive experience sur-rounding “The Simpsons Ride,” and a “Nighttime StudioTour” as part of the theme park’s pioneering epic trans-formation. And the countdown to the World of HarryPotter has begun.

This monumental undertaking – the most ambitious inthe theme park’s storied 50-year history – is radicallyaltering and reimagining its familiar footprint as TheEntertainment Capital of L.A. sets its sights on the next50 years.

From its humble beginnings five decades ago,Universal Studios Hollywood has emerged as one of themost progressive and exciting theme park experiencesanywhere, while remaining true to its roots of immersingguests in the awe-inspiring world of movie-making mag-ic.

Since its inception, Universal Studios has lifted theveil on Hollywood’s most illustrious industry, placingguests at the heart of favorite movies and televisionshows. It continues to be at the forefront of innovation,imagination and inspiration, working in collaborationwith some of the most influential filmmakers in the busi-ness and the greatest minds in entertainment -- StevenSpielberg, Matt Groening, James L. Brooks, PeterJackson, Michael Bay and Chris Meledandri -- to createintriguing rides and attractions.

“For 50 years, Universal StudiosHollywood has given guests unprecedentedaccess to the world’s most alluring businessby inviting them to peek behind the velvetcurtain and become part of the excitingmovie-making process,” said Larry Kurzweil,President of Universal Studios Hollywood.“We are reimagining over 75 percent of ourdestination as we build upon our incrediblesuccess and expand our vision for the future,and we look forward to entertaining andinspiring guests for generations to come withwhat will ultimately be an entirely new themepark experience.”

The “Glamour Trams” of yesteryear thatgave way to today’s world-famous StudioTour is undergoing a top to bottom makeoverto coincide with the 50th anniversary, and by2016, will roll out a fleet of new, contempo-

rary trams, including the installation of ultra-comfycushioned seats.

Led by expert guides, the acclaimed Studio Tourremains a hallmark Universal Studios Hollywood attrac-tion bringing millions of guests through an authenticmovie and television studio and into its elusive worldmotivated by three compelling words: lights, camera,action.

46 • Byways

This summer, high-octane excitement will race ontothe scene when Universal Studios Hollywood introduces“Fast & Furious—Supercharged,” a pulse-pounding,adrenaline-fueled thrill ride as the new grand finale to theworld-famous Studio Tour.

This gripping, technologically-advanced ride, inspiredby Universal Pictures’ most successful film franchise ofall time and featuring the film’s original cast members,will propel guests into the high-stakes undergroundworld of fast cars and daring escapades traveling ataccelerated speeds of up to 120 miles per hour. Situatedwithin a newly constructed 65,000 square foot buildingon the legendary backlot, the high speed, 3D-HD ridewill reunite stars from the Fast & Furious series – VinDiesel (Dominic “Dom” Toretto), Dwayne Johnson(Luke Hobbs), Michelle Rodriguez (Letty Ortiz), TyreseGibson (Roman Pearce) and Luke Evans (Owen Shaw)– in a revolutionary mega-attraction, conceived as a newinstallment to the dynamic film series that can only beexperienced at The Entertainment Capital of L.A.

The layout of the park will become unrecognizablewhen “Springfield,” hometown of America’s favoritefamily, The Simpsons, breathes new life to the sprawlingand vibrant space surrounding “The Simpsons Ride.”“Springfield” is designed to capture the spirit of the ani-mated town and engage visitors and fans of the show inthe intensely absorbing and colorful world made famousthroughout the series’ record-setting 26 seasons.

Universal’s slate of new 2015 attractions will entertainfrom sunup to sundown when the theme park broadensthe scope of its popular Studio Tour with the introductionof a “Nighttime Studio Tour,” designed to enlightenguests on the art of moonlight movie-making.Countdown to World of Harry Potter

The countdown to “The Wizarding World of HarryPotter™” has begun as Universal Studios HollywoodSM

announces the Spring 2016 arrival of the West Coast’smost anticipated entertainment experience and the intro-duction of the land’s signature attraction, “Harry Potterand the Forbidden Journey” in hyper-realistic 3D-HD.

More than five years in the making, and inspired by J.K. Rowling’s compelling stories and characters and theWarner Bros. films, “The Wizarding World of HarryPotter” at Universal Studios Hollywood will bring gueststhe same authenticity and storytelling found at UniversalOrlando Resort and Universal Studios Japan and isexpected to attract Harry Potter fans and visitors from allover the globe for decades to come.

Visitors will be swept into a fully immersive themedland that brings the Harry Potter fiction and films to lifewith impeccable detail and precision. “The WizardingWorld of Harry Potter” will be faithful to the visual land-scape of the fiction and films, including Hogwarts castlewhich will serve as its iconic focal point.

“Harry Potter is an exhilarating multi-generationalglobal phenomenon that has captivated the world’s atten-

tion acrossevery one ofits mediums,from booksand movies toexhilaratingtheme parkadventures,”said LarryK u r z w e i l ,President ofU n i v e r s a lS t u d i o sHollywood.“With itsi m m i n e n tarrival to The Entertainment Capital of L.A., UniversalStudios Hollywood is thrilled to bring our guests a new,compelling experience of ‘The Wizarding World ofHarry Potter’ as we embark on this next chapter in ourstoried history.”

The excitement that these new rides, attractions andthemed immersive lands will bring to guests is only aprelude to the highly-anticipated arrival of “TheWizarding World of Harry Potter™” in 2016.

www.universalstudioshollywood.com

Byways • 47

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ry Potter Video

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