By Sue and Steve Wilce 20th 27th May 2017 · 2017-06-11 · 1 Lesvos Spring 2017 By Sue and Steve...
Transcript of By Sue and Steve Wilce 20th 27th May 2017 · 2017-06-11 · 1 Lesvos Spring 2017 By Sue and Steve...
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Lesvos Spring 2017 By Sue and Steve Wilce
20th – 27th May 2017
We decided at the last minute to take a week in the sunshine and Lesvos was an obvious
choice because although the main bird migration was over there are always some nice birds
to be seen on Lesvos. We always say that the worst birding day on Lesvos is better than a
good day back home. For this type of trip it’s easier and cheaper to book a package deal and
we chose Thomas Cook for this reason.
We left home at 08.30 for a two hour, uneventful drive to Birmingham Airport for our 13.55
flight to Mytilene. However, after checking in and boarding the aircraft we were told that a
passenger no longer wanted to fly to Mytilene and his luggage would have to be found and
taken off the plane. This resulted in a most unwelcome delay of an hour for all on board - he
was not a popular man. We knew immediately that this would result in us arriving at our
hotel in darkness. We normally take the quiet road around the Geras Peninsular to avoid
Mytilene but this is not recommended in darkness so we had to endure the Mytilene
mayhem.
We hired a car from Tsalis car rental, a popular and reliable rental company on Lesvos that
we have used on previous visits. Despite our flight delay we were met at the airport by the
car hire representative. We signed the paperwork, declining the CDW option because we
have learned by experience that it is best to take out CDW insurance in this country prior to
travelling. It saves money and is more reliable.
We left the airport in rapidly failing light at about 22.30 Lesvos time. Despite having our own
Sat Nav programmed for our destination, which worked well, there is no preparing for the
drive through Mytilene’s infamous one way system. Driving through extremely busy
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Saturday night traffic in badly lit streets with scooters and motorbikes over and undertaking
is a veritable nightmare. This was compounded by the Sat Nav telling us to turn left and
finding that there was ‘No Left Turn’ etc. Finally we navigated our way out, more by luck
than judgement and found ourselves on the dual carriage way to our destination of Skalla
Kalloni.
We had chosen to stay at the Pasiphae Hotel on this occasion because of its association with
the birding community. We were quickly shown to our room where we dumped our luggage
and headed toward the pool bar for a much earned cold beer. We had booked an in-flight
meal because we knew it would be too late for food at the hotel. Later we unpacked our
luggage and turned in for the night.
Weather
The sun shone every day and temperatures rose as the week progressed, reaching the low
30’s. By 10.00 am it was too hot for birding some days, so we made sure that we were out
by 6.00 am and went out in the evening when it was a bit cooler. On Friday we saw dark
clouds and lightning flashes in the hills above Skalla Kalloni and we drove through a storm
which was centred around Mount Olympus on the way to the airport on Saturday
afternoon.
Sites Visited and Directions
Information about most of the sites we visited was obtained from Steve Dudley’s Birdwatching in Lesvos and from our previous experience of the island, but we were directed to some places by other birders Tsiknias River We came here every day, morning and evening as you never knew what would turn up Kalloni Salt Pans Kavaki Mesa Achlederi River Bridge near Achlederi Napi Valley Sigri Fields Faneromeni Ford and beach Road to Ipsilou Monastery Agra old road Sunday 21st May
We had no intention of rising early because we were tired after our journey, so we got up at
07.30 and enjoyed an ample breakfast before setting out. The Pasiphae Hotel provides a
comprehensive selection of food for breakfast, ranging from hot food, bacon and eggs etc.
to cereals, cold meats and cheeses, bread for toasting, marmalade, honey and jam, cakes
and biscuits, traditional Greek yogurt and fruit, all this washed down with fruit juices, tea
and coffee. (It should be noted that this hotel serves lunch but does not serve dinner. This is
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not a problem because of the plethora of Tavernas and restaurants close by at Skalla Kalloni
Harbour).
Feeling refreshed and replete we drove to the Tsiknias River where we were greeted by
singing Nightingales and Cettis Warblers, Poppies and other wild flowers were in the crop
fields and along the verges of the track and butterflies abounded: Swallowtail, Marbled
White, Small White, Clouded Yellow and Levantine Skippers, plus many unusual and
colourful insects. After crossing the ford we parked on the east bank, which is essential in
the early morning having the sun behind you. Standing outside the first thing we saw were a
pair of Little Bitterns, a common bird on the island, but nevertheless, very attractive. If you
keep quiet the will allow close approach.
While walking along the east bank we also saw:
Little Owl, Olivaceous Warblers, Reed Warblers, Corn Buntings, Black Headed Bunting,
Black Headed Yellow Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Wood Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Little
Egret, Squacco Herons, Spanish and House Sparrows, Crested Larks and a Kestrel. In
addition to these the air was full of Barn Swallows, House Martins, Bee Eaters, Common
Swifts and a few Alpine Swifts amongst them.
Lower down the track, towards the sea we encountered a female Red Backed Shrike, which
posed very nicely and a pair of Rufous Bush Chat (now called Rufous Scrub Robins) which
was pleasing because the latter can be very elusive.
We drove along the bumpy dusty track connecting the River to the Kalloni Salt Pans. There
were a few Bee Eaters on the overhead wires and fence posts and an Eastern race of Jay
with its black cap, but nothing much else. At the Salt Pans the resident Flamingos and
Avocets were in evidence and along the water channel there were many water birds,
namely Black Winged Stilts, Little Stints, Wood Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers. In the
air there were Whiskered, Little, Black and Common Terns.
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Monday 22nd May
Just after first light at the Tsiknias River we had our usual walk seeing many of the previous
day’s birds but with the bonus of 36 Rose Coloured Starling flying over us in a westerly
direction.
We returned to the hotel for breakfast as per our usual routine: Tsiknias River, breakfast,
onward birding. It may not seem a relaxed holiday to some but we are early risers at home
and its always better birding first thing in the morning.
Later on, while driving one of the quiet tracks we stopped abruptly to see a large bird
hovering in the sky. Through our binoculars we could now see it was a Short Toed Eagle
(now known as a Short Toed Snake Eagle because of its specialized diet of snakes). What a
lovely bird and we watched in awe until it finally drifted away over the fields. Also in this
area were Red Backed and Woodchat Shrikes, Bee Eaters and a fly-through Eleonora’s
Falcon. By this time, 12.00, it was very hot so we retreated to a local Taverna in Skalla
Kalloni harbour named Exodus, for a lunch of delicious Greek salad and Pizza with freshly
squeezed orange juice. This was a frequent stop for us because it was reasonably priced and
the owner was very courteous and professional. After this we chilled out at the hotel for a
few hours while the heat dissipated. This was necessary at this time of the year because of
the high temperature, unless of course you are a sunbather. The evening brought slightly
cooler temperatures allowing us to enjoy a walk down to the local harbour for a nice dinner
and a cold beer.
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Tuesday 23rd May
Once again we were on the Tsiknias River at first light, previously we had noticed some Bee
Eaters perching on some photographically suitable branches on the River bank. We
positioned the car directly opposite the branches – about 20ft away and waited, hoping they
would perch favourably. After about half an hour when insects were airborne the Bee Eaters
started to fly around and before long one bird perched briefly on the branch. This was the
opportunity we had been waiting for and although it was brief, it was all we needed to get a
photo – success!
After this pleasant encounter we saw two female/juv Night Herons fly down River. We went
to see if they had landed, we could hear them calling and saw them meet up with another
bird and fly off towards the west. We decided to try and see these lovely birds another
morning hoping they would be in the same area, because they are creatures of habit. These
birds can be quite elusive but it’s worth the effort because they are a favourite bird of ours.
We made our way back up River seeing male and female Little Bitterns, Squacco Herons,
Grey Heron, two Black and one Common Tern, two Black Storks and a Cormorant.
In addition there were many Stripped Necked Terrapins sunbathing along the River bank,
supported by a cacophony of Marsh Frogs. In the warm morning sunshine the fields were
alive with Crested Larks, Corn Buntings, House and Spanish Sparrows and the odd Black
Headed Bunting. After a good couple of hours birding we returned to the hotel for
breakfast.
Our next destination was the Napi Valley, turning off towards the old Kremastis Bridge
which spans the Kremastis River and always has plenty of water running under it.
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We had been here on our last visit in 2015 and it’s a good spot for birds because of this. As
we arrived we could see a Masked Shrike on some overhead wires, there was also a Sombre
Tit in the bushes and a Hoopoe flew past. After scanning the Riverside bushes for some time
we eventually located the Nightingale that had been singing since we arrived – it’s always a
pleasure to see a Nightingale. As we watched the River we saw a snake moving through the
shallows, it had a distinctive zig-zag pattern but we couldn’t identify it. If you are in the Napi
Valley this bridge is always a good place to spend an hour.
We carried on up the Napi Valley and stopped at two of our usual spots which previously
had been good for Masked, Woodchat and Red Backed Shrike amongst other birds, but
unfortunately, probably due to the time of the year these areas were disappointedly devoid
of almost all birds. After this we made our way back down and had a nice coffee in in small
café in Agia Paraskevi.
Later on we revisited the Kremastis Bridge, it doesn’t take long, about 20 minutes from
Skalla Kalloni, but even at 19.00 it was still 26 C!! There are olive groves surrounding the
Kremastis River and here we found a single Cuckoo, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Hoopoe,
Eastern Race Jay and a pair of Red Backed Shrikes. Two Nightingales were in a singing
competition at the bridge – worth coming out for that alone! That evening we enjoyed a
nice dinner at one of the restaurants on the harbour, quite a successful day’s birding. When
we came back to our hotel we almost stepped on a Worm Snake on the floor of our room.
We had never seen or heard of this animal before. I managed to pick it up and it was great
to feel this beautiful creature coiling around my fingers.
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I took it outside and returned it to the safety of the undergrowth, a nice end to the day.
Wednesday 24th May
After our habitual early morning visit to Tsiknias River, where we again saw some Night
Herons along with Black Headed Buntings, Little Bitterns, Red Rumped Swallows and two
Black Storks, we decided to travel to Sigri, in the west of the island. We left early after
breakfast and arrived at Sigri at about 10.30, the journey taking about 90 minutes. On our
arrival at Sigri we took the turn signposted Faneromeni; this is one of the best areas to
explore and the fields alongside the road contained all four Shrikes, Black Headed Buntings
and Spanish Sparrows, but it was, however, much quieter than in passage migration time.
We made our way to Faneromeni Beach, by now it had become very warm and there was
very little to be seen apart from a Little Ringed Plover and two Ruddy Shelduck, which
showed very well. Previously there had been a flock of about 60 Rose Coloured Starlings
seen in a garden adjoining the beach but despite spending a lot of time in the area we did
not see them and the only birds of note were two Lesser Kestrels.
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After a small snack for lunch in the only Taverna open on the harbour front and watching a
local fisherman salting his catch of Sardines, we took the road back to Ipsilou Monastery. It
was quite surprising just how many businesses had closed and were boarded up at Sigri
Harbour. Two years ago, earlier in the holiday season than this, we could not park our car
because of the volume of tourists there. This was a stark reminder of the consequences of
the well documented human tragedy that has taken place in the last few years. Although we
saw no evidence of this tragedy on our travels around the island this appalling situation has,
no doubt, deterred many people from visiting and as a result all major tour operators
cancelled direct flights to Lesvos during the prime birding weeks of late April/early May
2017. However, it now appears that in 2018, at least with Thomas Cook, normal service will
be resumed.
We did not visit the Monastery at Ipsilou, instead we made our way back to a location we
knew for Cinereous Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush. If you are passing the village of Agra on
the main road from the west, at the start of the new by-pass take the old road towards the
village. Proceed up the steep hill and stop anywhere along this ostensibly unused road and
scan the rocky slopes above and below, which in our experience always contain these birds.
In addition to Cinereous Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush we saw Rock Nuthatch,
Cretzchmar’s Bunting, Sombre Tit, Black Eared Wheatear and, surprisingly, a few Linnets.
By this time it had become very hot so we resumed our journey back to the hotel.
Thursday 25th May
Just after first light this morning we decided to “stake out” the Night Herons which had
been perching in the trees on the banks of the Tsiknias River. If you want to photograph
these shy and easily disturbed birds you have to stay in your car. Susan went for a walk
down River to see what other birds were around and encountered a rarely seen Beech
Marten which scuttled across the track, Meanwhile while I drove slowly along the east bank
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track with the sun behind me until I was quite close to one particular bird, carefully I rested
my lens on the bean bag which I had on the car window sill, the Night Heron turned to look
at me, but seemed comfortable with my presence and I was very pleased to get some nice
shots of my favourite Heron.
At breakfast, talking to Mike Smith, another birding guest at the hotel, the morning got even
better. He gave us directions to a “dead cert.” location for Eastern Bonnelli’s Warbler.
In our experience, nothing is certain, especially with wildlife, however, on this occasion he
has right. He gave us directions from the main road up a steep track where these elusive
birds could be found.
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After several hundred yards we began to hear their characteristic call and song and indeed,
right at the sides of the track we located several birds attending nests and feeding young.
We watched them for a while and moved further up the track where we saw a Jay, Turtle
Dove, Masked Shrike and a Nightingale feeding a fledgling. Also along this track we saw a
Spur Thighed Tortoise and a Persian Squirrel. This track passed through lovely habitat that
could be a real “hotspot” during prime spring migration.
Later that morning we drove to Kavaki, the Ruppell’s Warber site where previously we had
seen a good variety but this time it was very quiet and unbearably hot. Ruppell’s had hardly
been seen that spring but we were lucky to spot two male birds along with a pair of
Subalpine Warblers, but because of the intense heat we left this area and just after Petra
we bought ice creams which we enjoyed under the shade of a tree on the seafront.
Looking at the map we decided to drive a few back roads instead of taking the main road
back to Skalla Kalloni, we passed through a few small, quiet villages and after a village called
Filia we parked at a spectacular viewpoint overlooking Kalloni Bay. While we were there a
Cirl Bunting kept us company, singing on the wires overhead.
We drove back through the Salt Pans and the connecting track to the Tsiknias River, then
across the ford and back to the hotel. We saw very little because the heat had become very
unpleasant and we were glad to reach the sanctuary of our cool hotel room. After a rest and
a rejuvenating shower we strolled down to the harbour in the now cooler evening sunshine
to enjoy a nice dinner and drinks at Exodus Taverna.
Friday 26th May
First thing at the Tsiknias River, four Rose Coloured Starlings flew over us, again heading
west! A few Bee Eaters were flying around and three Hoopoes briefly showed at the
pumping station on the Salt Pans. We stayed in this area most of the day, just chilling out
and taking what came along.
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While we were parked on a quiet track under a shady tree having lunch, we were almost
falling asleep in the dappled sunshine when a Rufous Bush Chat jumped out onto the track
about 20 yards away. These birds can be difficult to see let alone photograph, so we were
pleased with these views, but what happened next was very surprising – the bird came
hopping down the track towards us until it was as little as 5 yards away – what a bonus to
see it this close. I was able to take some real close-up shots of this secretive and little seen
bird.
We paid a cursory visit to Metochi Lake which has now become very overgrown and is no
longer the birding location it was and this is true of a number of locations around the island,
namely Kalloni Pool. We did hear a Great Reed Warbler at the pool but very little else. That
evening huge thunder and lightning storms could be seen over the mountains but lower
down was largely unaffected.
Saturday 27th May
After a dawn visit to the Tsiknias River we saw 2 Rufous Bush Chats with one young bird – a
first for us. Olivaceous Warblers were singing everywhere this morning. We watched as a
Yellow Legged Gull tried to swallow a huge fish, Common and Whiskered Terns were
fishing and 5 Black Storks sailed overhead. The obliging Night Heron posed for more
photographs before we returned to breakfast. Afterwards we left for a final drive through
the Napi Valley making a short detour to the old Kremastis Bridge. While standing on the
new bridge overlooking the river we saw the remarkable sight of a Hoopoe with a fish in its
bill which it proceeded to kill at the side of the river and then flew off into the nearby olive
grove, probably to waiting young birds. Turtle Doves purred and Nightingales sang in the
morning sunshine.
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We returned to the hotel and packed our cases and equipment. We were told by the owner
that we could stay late if we wanted because we did not have to be at the airport until
18.30. However, we decided to leave at midday and spend the time out and about rather
than at the hotel.
As it was near lunch time we drove to our favourite Taverna in Agia Paraskevi. This Taverna
is at the beginning of the village, just where the cobbles start. The seating area is pleasantly
situated under a large Mediterranean Plane tree (known in Europe as Plantene). The owner
told us it was called the Tree of Hypocrites, the father of medicine, who was reputed to
teach his students medicine under a Plantene tree in Kos.
We had had coffee there before and noticed a sign advertising Pizza so we asked if we could
order one. The owner, a real character and a bit of a philosopher, said that it would be 20
minutes as he had to fire the oven up. In reality it was more like 40 minutes but it did not
matter because we had time to spare, the coffee was good and the locals kept us
entertained. When the Pizza arrived it was worth the wait because it was the best Pizza we
had ever tasted. Cooked in a proper stone oven, the base was thick, but light and crispy and
the topping was both generous and delicious. While we were there a Dutch family arrived
and we recommended the Pizza to them and they were in full agreement that the Pizza was
the best they’d tasted. If you ever pass this tavern do not hesitate to pay a visit – you won’t
be disappointed.
After lunch we drove towards Achlederi, through Mesa pulling in at a small pine woodland
just after a picturesque little harbour. In the woodland we could hear some unusual barks
and squawks which sounded as if they came from the top of the pines nearest to the sea
and to our surprise found a roost of seven Night Herons.
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Anyone driving past on this road would never know they were there! After this pleasant
encounter we continued our journey towards Mytilene and the airport. In the distance,
around Mount Olympus, there were tremendous flashes of lightning and claps of thunder –
the sky turned purple and torrential rain fell, luckily we were right on the edge and escaped
most of it. To avoid passing through Mytilene we usually turn off the main carriageway and
make our way around the Geras Peninsula. This is about 16 Km longer but it is worth it to
avoid the traffic and one way system of Mytilene. The scenery is also much nicer this way,
passing through old olive groves and lovely, quiet bays. At one bay we parked under the
trees along the beach to enjoy a last ice cream before driving the last 10 Km to the airport.
We returned the car to the Tsalis representative and checked in. The flight back home was
smooth until we were waiting at the baggage carousel where to our horror one of our bags
was missing. Everyone else had left and as we dejectedly walked towards the lost luggage
office, suddenly the bag appeared on the belt on its own – what a relief!
We made our way to the main car parks and after negotiating some heavy traffic around
Birmingham, we drove home on relatively quiet roads and arrived home at 02.00. These
flight times were difficult and tiring and in future we will always pay a bit extra for more
amenable flights.
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List of Birds Seen
Water Birds
Little Bittern
Squacco Heron
Night Heron
Grey Heron
Black Winged Stilts
Little Egrets
Little Ringed Plover
Little Stint
Avocet
Grt. Flamingo
Ruddy Shelduck
Shelduck
Mallard
Coot
Moorhen
Yellow Legged Gulls
Little Tern
Common Tern
Artic Tern
Whiskered Tern
Black Tern
Black Stork
White Stork
Shrikes
Red Backed Shrike
Masked Shrikes
Woodchat Shrike
Southern Grey Shrike
Owls and Raptors
Scops Owl (h)
Little Owl
Eleonora’s Falcon
Lesser Kestrel
Kestrel
Common Buzzard
Short Toed Eagle
Corvids and Doves
Black Capped Jay
Jackdaw
Hooded Crow
Turtle Dove
Collared Dove
Hirundines
Common Swift
Alpine Swift
Barn Swallow
Red Rumped Swallow
House Martin
Buntings and Sparrows
House Sparrow
Spanish Sparrow
Corn Bunting
Black Headed Bunting
Cirk Bunting
Cinareous Bunting
Crezchmars Bunting
Tits and Finches
Sombre Tit
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Goldfinch Greenfinch
Chaffinch
Thrushes and Chats
Blue Rock Thrush
Blackbird
Rufus Bush Chat
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Warblers
Olivaceous Warber
Reed Warbler
Great Reed Warbler (h)
Nightingale
Ruppell’s Warbler
Subalpine Warbler
Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler
Cetti’s Warbler
Misc Birds
Bee Eater
Hoopoe
Rose Coloured Starlings
Crested Lark
Black Eared Wheatears
Middle Spotted Woodpecker
Rock Nuthatch
Animals
Beech Marten
Persian Squirrel
Snakes and Reptiles
Spur Thighed Tortoise
European Terrapin
Stripped Neck Terrapin
Tree Frogs
Worm Snake
Unidentified River snake
Balkan Green Lizard
Starred Agama
Butterflies
Swallowtail
Meadow Brown
White Admiral
Marbled White
Balkan Clouded Yellow
Small White
Levantine Skipper
+ many unidentified butterflies and insects
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