BYBYSajan MoharanaSajan Moharana

Ashwani RaoAshwani Rao

Problems………………Problems……………… Checks is that the repeating size is not Checks is that the repeating size is not

constant but variable. If the repeat is constant but variable. If the repeat is not constant, we cannot plan a marker not constant, we cannot plan a marker exactly on a repeat. exactly on a repeat.

Fabric produced on industrial looms and Fabric produced on industrial looms and finished using the correct method is finished using the correct method is normally of such good quality that we normally of such good quality that we are able to plan markers exactly on the are able to plan markers exactly on the repeat, spread the fabric according to repeat, spread the fabric according to the repeat and cut the lay package later the repeat and cut the lay package later obviating block cutting and relaying the obviating block cutting and relaying the pieces later for single piece matching.pieces later for single piece matching.

Basic Level of Basic Level of TechnologyTechnology

The basic level of technology is creating markers on a The basic level of technology is creating markers on a computerized marker generation system with computerized marker generation system with matching points for plaid/checks and a provision for matching points for plaid/checks and a provision for block cutting. block cutting.

The real size marker layout will be taken out from the The real size marker layout will be taken out from the plotter. During spreading of fabrics using a spreader plotter. During spreading of fabrics using a spreader or manually, the fabric is laid with one side of the or manually, the fabric is laid with one side of the selvedge aligned. selvedge aligned.

This way, the best possible lengthwise stripe match is This way, the best possible lengthwise stripe match is realized. The paper marker is kept on the lay and a realized. The paper marker is kept on the lay and a straight knife used. During cutting, single or dual straight knife used. During cutting, single or dual pattern blocks are cut using a straight knife. pattern blocks are cut using a straight knife.

Then the stack component is re-laid on a pintable, Then the stack component is re-laid on a pintable, manually matching stripes, either length or widthwise, manually matching stripes, either length or widthwise, layer by layer. layer by layer.

If a pintable is not used, then during re-laying, pins If a pintable is not used, then during re-laying, pins are often used from the top of the stack to avoid are often used from the top of the stack to avoid interplay slippage in the stack. Then precision cutting interplay slippage in the stack. Then precision cutting is done using a band knife.is done using a band knife.

Intermediate Level of Intermediate Level of TechnologyTechnology

The intermediate level of technology is creating markers The intermediate level of technology is creating markers on a computerized marker generation system with on a computerized marker generation system with matching points for plaid/checks. matching points for plaid/checks.

A full size marker plot is taken on a paper and the fabric A full size marker plot is taken on a paper and the fabric is manually spread (no spreader is used) using is manually spread (no spreader is used) using continuous pin tables for perfect alignment of the plaids continuous pin tables for perfect alignment of the plaids during spreading. during spreading.

First the needle bars are adjusted according to the First the needle bars are adjusted according to the marker. The first lay is under lay-paper, then the fabric is marker. The first lay is under lay-paper, then the fabric is pinned from centre to selvedge, layer by layer. pinned from centre to selvedge, layer by layer.

The pintable preparation part of the process is supported The pintable preparation part of the process is supported by software, first by PinIT software from Veith Systems, by software, first by PinIT software from Veith Systems, then by one of the known CAD-systems, then again by then by one of the known CAD-systems, then again by PinIT. PinIT.

The actual spreading and matching of the fabric on the The actual spreading and matching of the fabric on the VEITH Pin Table is a manual process. The lay packages VEITH Pin Table is a manual process. The lay packages can be cut manually by the straight and band knife can be cut manually by the straight and band knife combination. combination.

Small components are block cut using the straight knife, Small components are block cut using the straight knife, then the stack is transferred to the band knife. To avoid then the stack is transferred to the band knife. To avoid interplay slippage, Veith pinblocks are used. Finally, interplay slippage, Veith pinblocks are used. Finally, small components are cut using the band knife.small components are cut using the band knife.

Highest level of Highest level of technologytechnology

The highest level of technology is by creating markers on a The highest level of technology is by creating markers on a computerized marker generation system with matching points for computerized marker generation system with matching points for plaid/checks and spreading the fabric using a continuous pintable plaid/checks and spreading the fabric using a continuous pintable to prepare lay packages similar to the intermediate level. to prepare lay packages similar to the intermediate level.

Here the lay will be cut using CNC-Cutter (CAM) which is Here the lay will be cut using CNC-Cutter (CAM) which is equipped with a camera system in order to do the final equipped with a camera system in order to do the final adjustment (2-3 mm) in the position of the patterns related to adjustment (2-3 mm) in the position of the patterns related to the lay package. the lay package.

This step needs the operator and can be understood to be semi- This step needs the operator and can be understood to be semi- automatic. The digital camera and associated light box analyze automatic. The digital camera and associated light box analyze the exact position of motifs on the cutting surface. the exact position of motifs on the cutting surface.

The on-cutter scanner detects the fabric’s actual motif, analyses The on-cutter scanner detects the fabric’s actual motif, analyses distortion, modifies markers and geometry of pieces in real time distortion, modifies markers and geometry of pieces in real time based on the fabric’s physical characteristics and automatically based on the fabric’s physical characteristics and automatically launches the calculation and cutting process. launches the calculation and cutting process.

This eliminates need for material to be ‘block’ cut and the result This eliminates need for material to be ‘block’ cut and the result is absolutely astonishing regarding accuracy. It reduces labor is absolutely astonishing regarding accuracy. It reduces labor and material costs because there is no need for skilled operators and material costs because there is no need for skilled operators to manually match fabrics. to manually match fabrics.

It may be noted that different levels of technology do not result It may be noted that different levels of technology do not result in different levels of quality; rather it is time and manpower that in different levels of quality; rather it is time and manpower that is saved while using the higher levels of technology. In case of is saved while using the higher levels of technology. In case of striped knitwear, however, a continuous pintable is preferred striped knitwear, however, a continuous pintable is preferred over a block pin table as the stripes in circular knit fabric are over a block pin table as the stripes in circular knit fabric are always at an angle and only a continuous pintable offers angular always at an angle and only a continuous pintable offers angular alignment of pins.alignment of pins.

Value for MoneyValue for Money The higher the technology level, the better the The higher the technology level, the better the

benefit in terms of productivity realized. The benefit in terms of productivity realized. The Return on Investment for different equipment Return on Investment for different equipment differs, based on scale of operation and types differs, based on scale of operation and types of merchandise produced, etc. Here I will give of merchandise produced, etc. Here I will give examples of two generic pieces of equipmentexamples of two generic pieces of equipment

(AUTOMATIC SPREADER)(AUTOMATIC SPREADER) (PIN TABLE)(PIN TABLE)

Example ROI for Automatic SpreaderExample ROI for Automatic Spreader:: Fabric SavingFabric Saving::

We can save fabric on the spreading We can save fabric on the spreading machine by making longer layers.machine by making longer layers.

Make 3 m long marker with 200 plies. Make 3 m long marker with 200 plies. 2 cm end loss on each side is 800 cm in total. 2 cm end loss on each side is 800 cm in total. 12 m and reduce the plies by 150. 12 m and reduce the plies by 150. Now the end losses will be 50x4 = 200cm.Now the end losses will be 50x4 = 200cm. Thus saving 600cm fabric or 1.0% of fabric.Thus saving 600cm fabric or 1.0% of fabric. Splicing also generates around 0.75% of savings.Splicing also generates around 0.75% of savings. Total savings by using the spreader is 1.75%.Total savings by using the spreader is 1.75%. Fabric price is Rs 50/meter Fabric price is Rs 50/meter Spreading 5,000 m / daySpreading 5,000 m / day..

Saving of (1.75% x 50 x5000) = Rs 4,375 Saving of (1.75% x 50 x5000) = Rs 4,375 per day =per day = Rs 13, 12,500 per year (300 Rs 13, 12,500 per year (300 days/yeardays/year).).

Manpower SavingManpower Saving With the automatic spreader we can manage with With the automatic spreader we can manage with

1 operator and 1 helper. 1 operator and 1 helper. Saving of salaries of at least 10 operators Saving of salaries of at least 10 operators

/helpers./helpers. Avg. of Rs 3,000 per month( saving of Rs Avg. of Rs 3,000 per month( saving of Rs

30,000/month or, Rs 3,60,000/year. 30,000/month or, Rs 3,60,000/year. Avg. saving/ year = Fabric saving + Salary Saving Avg. saving/ year = Fabric saving + Salary Saving

= Rs 13,12,500 + Rs 3,60,000 = Rs 16,72,500= Rs 13,12,500 + Rs 3,60,000 = Rs 16,72,500 Cost of automatic spreader = Rs 20,00,000Cost of automatic spreader = Rs 20,00,000 Return on Investment Return on Investment 20, 00,000 / 16, 72,500 = 1.195 years20, 00,000 / 16, 72,500 = 1.195 years Apart from the above, precious time is also saved Apart from the above, precious time is also saved

and intangible benefits like quality improvement and intangible benefits like quality improvement accrue.accrue.

ROI for continuous Pin ROI for continuous Pin Table:Table:

we can avoid most blocking tolerances, we work we can avoid most blocking tolerances, we work with smaller patterns, i.e., fabric consumption is with smaller patterns, i.e., fabric consumption is reduced. This depends on the size of the repeat-reduced. This depends on the size of the repeat-according to our experience, 3% saving is an according to our experience, 3% saving is an average figure. But we argue Normally with just average figure. But we argue Normally with just 2%when talking to Customers in order to be on the2%when talking to Customers in order to be on the

Conservatives idea and still get a good ROIConservatives idea and still get a good ROI

2% (saving) x 1.8 m (consumption) x 550 2% (saving) x 1.8 m (consumption) x 550 (shirts/day/8h-shift)xUS$3.5 (price of (shirts/day/8h-shift)xUS$3.5 (price of fabric/m)=US$6,930 saving per day;fabric/m)=US$6,930 saving per day;

investment of US$20,000 , investment of US$20,000 , Get ROI of 288 days, which is less than 9 Get ROI of 288 days, which is less than 9

monthsmonths.. We did not include the better quality and the We did not include the better quality and the

higher productivity in our calculation.higher productivity in our calculation.

THANK YOUTHANK YOU