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buying guide

JULY 2013

2 california

33 oregon

36 Washington

41 chile

47 austria

50 germany

52 northeast italy

54 central italy

60 provence

63 bordeaux

67 spain

74 spirits

76 beer

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buyingguide

2 | Wine enthusiast | july 2013

california white wines

chardonnay

95 Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re-

view see page 3.abv: 14.2% Price: $55

94 Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For

full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

94 Lynmar 2011 La Serenité Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a best-of-

barrels blend from different vineyard sites. It’s a very good wine that grabs your attention with sheer Char-donnay dazzle. The tropical fruits are incredibly ripe and intense, with sweet, smoky oak adding supportive richness, brought into focus by crisp acidity. There’s a core, like the nucleus of an atom, that holds everything together. Might even age for half a dozen years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

94 Lynmar 2011 Susanna’s Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re-

view see page 4. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

94 Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vine-yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).

For full review see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

93 Failla 2011 Hudson Vineyard Chardon-nay (Napa Valley). This precisely crafted

wine lifts Carneros Chardonnay to a whole new level. Yes, it’s pricey, but so complex and decadent, it’s worth

it. The alcohol is refreshingly low, the acidity is bright, and there’s a lick of steel to balance the nectarine and mango fruit, buttered-toast and cream flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

93 Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli-Allen Vine-yards Chardonnay (Russian River Val-

ley). The Chardonnays from this Farrell bottling are always very fine and among the most consistent across vintages. The 2010 shows ripe, concentrated tropical fruit and green-apple flavors, brightened with crisp, Russian River acidity. Deft, firm and delicious, it will provide great Chardonnay pleasure over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

92 Balletto 2011 Sexton Hill Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For

full review see page 6. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

92 Calera 2011 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). Josh Jensen brings his restrained hand to this

very fine Chardonnay. It’s notable for the excellence of all its parts, and the balanced way they co-exist. You’ll find tantalizingly rich tropical fruit and peach flavors, with nuances of oak, as well as the minerality that the estate vineyard brings to all its wines, white and red. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

92 Failla 2011 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Shows the estate vine-

yard’s signature in the moderate alcohol, sleek, stream-lined mouthfeel, bright acidity and intensity of flavor. It’s laser-like in lime, mango, honey and vanilla, with minerally overtones that taste of the earth. Drink now, as it is very fine and delicious. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $44

92 Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Char-donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full

review see page 7. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

92 Matanzas Creek 2010 Chardonnay (So-noma County). For full review see page 7.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

92 Two Sisters 2010 Courtney’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full re-


92 Williams Selyem 2011 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For


91 Breggo 2011 Chardonnay (Anderson Val-ley). This is a cool-climate Chardonnay that’s

dark gold in color and tastes of ripe apple. From both the Ferrington and Savoy Vineyards, two of Anderson Valley’s finest, it shows the greatness of the vintage in coastal Mendocino. Fragrant and rich in honey and toasty notes, it finishes crisp. Crab cakes with it would be ideal. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

91 Gary Farrell 2010 Westside Farms Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). A very good

wine from one of the newer entries to the Farrell pan-theon of vineyard-designated Chardonnays. It’s brisk in acidity, with voluptuous tropical fruit and green apple flavors. New oak brings the usual complexities of but-tered toast and vanilla. The texture is just a little scoury. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

Continued on Page 16

united states

a s we move further along into the summer season and the mer-cury climbs ever upward, we naturally turn to vinous selections that offer a sense of refreshment, trying desperately to beat the

summer heat while still quenching our thirst for good wine. While there are a plethora of options available, made from countless varieties and pro-duced all over the world, experimentation and a sense of adventure have led many American winemakers to craft an extraordinary range of home-grown selections.

As California Editor Steve Heimoff describes in his feature on “Ameri-ca’s New Summer Whites” on page 48, we are now spoiled for choice. Al-though Americans have traditionally had soft spots in our hearts for cer-tain white varieties (mainly Chardonnay, but also Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc)—and we’re not about to deny the appropriateness of some of those selections at your summer picnic table—the fact remains that there are many more options. With so many interesting grapes to discover and styles to explore, why not seek out something different this month and find a new

favorite warm-weather go-to wine?If summertime instantly makes you “think pink,” then we’ve got you

covered with this month’s tasting of Provençal rosés. European Editor Roger Voss reviewed dozens of current releases, in varying styles and at ev-ery price point, to help you make the most of your rosé shopping this sea-son. With their modest alcohol levels, fresh berry and stone-fruit flavors, brisk acidity and penchant to be served slightly chilled, now is the best time to enjoy these subtly nuanced but remarkably refreshing wines. Plus they pair masterfully with just about any traditional barbecue fare, from the mains to the sides.

Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews from Austria, Bordeaux, Central Italy, Chile, Germany and Spain, as well as hundreds of reviews from California, Oregon and Washington. And, as always, be sure to check out our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more reviews and recommendations.

Cheers! —Lauren Buzzeo

searching for those perfect summertime sippers

96 Figgins 2010 Estate Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley). This is the third release of

Figgins, a single wine produced by Leonetti’s Chris Figgins from his Figgins Estate vineyard. Intensely aromatic, it explodes from the glass with baking spices and deep cassis fruit. Over the course of three days it opened into a sleek, stylish, complex mix of purple- and black-berries, dried herbs, bark, dusty cocoa and a streak of caramel. Long and lush, it’s a wine to cellar for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $85

96 Williams Selyem 2011 Terra de Promissio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A

new bottling from the winery. The vineyard is in the Petaluma Gap, a cool area south of the Russian River Valley, toward San Francisco. The vintage was cool, too, so the wine is brisk in acidity and low in alcohol, but it still tastes amazingly ripe and complex. The wine dazzles with waves of black raspberry jam, sweet olive tapenade, sautéed brown mushroom, root beer, moo-shu plum sauce and mocha. If those flavors sound like they don’t go together, just try the wine. It’s seamless and compelling. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

95 Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). This wine

could easily be mistaken for French Chablis. It’s notable for the tight, nervous feeling that acidity and minerals combine to stimulate, and the finish is very dry. There is, fortunately, a great heart of sweet tropical fruit, like the purest golden mango purée, ripe and succulent and honeyed. Terrific now, but such is the balance that this could be one of those Chardonnays that changes in interesting ways over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

95 Marimar Estate 2009 Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). This is a dazzling Pinot Noir, so gorgeous to drink for its rich, complex deliciousness. Yet appealing as it is now, there are multiple subtleties waiting to be discovered, and the wine has a fine future. Like all of Marimar’s Pinots, it’s a big wine—rich and extracted and dense in weight. The flavors veer towards ripe pomegranates, black cherries and sweet licorice, with hints of dark chocolate, orange peel and even the umami of charcuterie. Despite the weight, it magically remains lithe, like a ballerina leaping into the air. Drink now–2019, as it gradually ages. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

95 Nickel & Nickel 2010 Harris Vineyard Merlot (Oakville). This is a great Merlot that’s

intensely concentrated and dazzlingly rich—everything you want a Merlot to be. It’s power packed with black cherries, cherry liqueur, cocoa and sweet oak, with firm, hard tannins. That is, of course, the Nickel & Nickel style. It shows classic Oakville structure and a hard-to-define elegance, making it one of the best Merlots of the vintage. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $53

95 Teso La Monja 2010 Alabaster (Toro). Pure blackberry, cola, licorice and vanilla

aromas form the base of an alluring, impressive bouquet. A layered, tannic palate is next up, followed by complex flavors of toast, mocha, black fruit, licorice and pepper. Density and firm tannins drive the finish, which tastes like bitter chocolate and espresso. This powerful Toro will be at its best from 2015–2020. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $220

WineMag.com | 3

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TasTing MeThodoLogY and goaLsAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

aboUT The scoresRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

speciaL designaTionsEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

sUbMiTTing prodUcTs for reviewProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LabeLsLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com


buyingguide

95 Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

While the winery’s regular 2010 Diamond Mountain Cab is a barrel selection, this Estate Vineyard selection consists of “only the darkest, most extracted lots,” from the winery’s various vineyards, according to the winemaker. That’s exactly what you get, an inky wine, it’s huge on the palate with blackberries, currants and dark chocolate, augmented by plenty of new French oak. It is absolutely delicious now, but the tannin structure guarantees to develop for 10–20 years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

95 Von Strasser 2010 Reserve (Diamond Mountain). This is a 40-40 blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, with the balance consisting of Merlot. It’s a barrel selection of the winery’s best lots, from its various vineyards, and has been aged in 100% new French oak. Yet it’s not oaky at all, with the wood bringing only additional sweet, smoky richness to the red currants, cherries, dark chocolate and spices. This is a superb wine, delicious right out of the bottle, but it should develop and, depending on your tastes, improve over the next 20 years. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $135

95 Von Strasser 2010 Sori Bricco Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

This is an enormous Cabernet, as packed with intensity and power as anything in Napa Valley. The vineyard is Von Strasser’s highest on the mountain, which maximally exposes it to the sun, and you can taste the solar ripeness in the intense essence of black currants and dark chocolate. The tannins exhibit classic Diamond Mountain potency. This is a dense Cabernet that needs serious time in the cellar. Hold until 2019, and it will continue to develop for many years afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $80

94 Gary Farrell 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Extra-

ordinarily sweet and attractive in raspberry and cherry fruit, as concentrated and pure as anything in California. The acidity is beautiful, as you’d expect from this vineyard in such a cool vintage, and it showcases Pinot Noir’s silkiness and beauty. Despite the immediate flash, it will develop bottle complexity; hold until 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

94 Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Gary

Farrell is one of the few wineries to obtain fruit from this coveted vineyard. As always, the wine is intensely concentrated in tropical fruits, green apples and pears, with such weight that it can easily handle lavish new French oak. The alcohol is refreshingly low and the acidity is brisk and mouthwatering. This gorgeous evocation of Russian River Chardonnay is flashy and delicious now, but the window of opportunity seems to be between 2014–2017 before the fruit starts to fade away. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

94 Kiona 2010 Single Berry Select Botry-tised Chenin Blanc (Red Mountain).

Among Kiona’s strengths, the dessert wines are right at the top. This wine—comparable in many ways to the Single Berry Select from Eroica (which costs more than twice as much)—features Chenin Blanc rather than Riesling, and why not? It’s a seductive, delicious bottle that expresses the condensed essence of the grape. Even at 274 g/L of residual sugar, it does not translate to a cloying or super-sweet wine; rather it is buoyed by supporting acidity, while filling the mouth with candied fruits, flowers, and buttery pastry notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 9.4% Price: $80/375 ml

94 Leonetti Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). All Leonetti wines are

100% estate-grown fruit, mixing Seven Hills, Mill Creek Upland and Loess vineyard grapes. The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon includes 12% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Carmenère in the blend. Young and chewy, with a hint of herbaceousness, this shows lovely balance and a mix of raspberry, black cherry, cassis, coffee and cacao. It’s a young, deep and powerful wine that will certainly reward cellaring. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $90

94 Lynmar 2011 Susanna’s Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). The trick

with getting a Chardonnay this honeyed is to keep it balanced and make it finish dry. Lynmar accomplishes these tasks with dexterity. Partly because of the acidity, partly the stony, crystalline minerality. The wine is terrifically rich in tropical fruits, melons, sweet Meyer lemons and ripe summer peaches, with all the buttered toast you could ever want from oak. In lesser hands, it would all be too much. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

94 S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Dompropst GG Riesling (Mosel). Voluptuously textured and

intensely juicy on the palate with rich peach, melon and citrus notes, this remarkably dry Riesling is a showcase of balance and finesse. The palate tingles with tangerine acidity kissed with hibiscus nectar and savory, crushed slate. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $70

WineMag.com | 5

94 Sequum 2009 Four Soil Melange Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Produced

from four vineyards throughout the valley, this Cabernet shows the art of the blend. It’s softly tannic and frankly delicious, with dazzlingly rich blackberry, cassis liqueur, anise and mineral flavors. Hard to describe how attractive this wine is now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

94 Silverado 2009 Limited Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). This is a barrel

selection, presumably limited in cases. It’s an extra-ordinarily rich, concentrated 100% Cabernet Sau-vignon, made in the modern cult-style of massively extracted blackberries, black currants, cassis liqueur and chocolate, with oak bringing the usual sweet toast and vanilla complexities. This deserves its high score for sheer opulence and great Napa structure. Delicious now, and could easily age for at least 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $150

94 Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River

Valley). Insanely rich and opulent, brimming with apricot and tangerine jam, green-apple butter, pine-apple tart, vanilla, honeysuckle, buttered toast and spice flavors. Somehow, the mass is reined in by a tight framework of acids, minerals and oak tannins. This shows the pedigree that comes from this famous vineyard, as well as the Williams Selyem signature of extreme class and deliciousness. Drink over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

93 Château d’Esclans 2011 Garrus Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A powerful, wood-

aged rosé that shows great richness, density and structure. Treat this as a fine wine and you’ll appreciate the texture, the mature berry fruits, the spice and vanilla flavors. Weighty and full in the mouth, this could even age well for another year or two. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $90

93 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2010 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua

Valley). For price and quality, Le Dix 2010 takes things to a high level. The nose on this Cabernet-led blend is full of violet, lilac, cassis and mild oak. The palate is multilayered and has a complex feel to it, while flavors of baked berry, cassis, coffee and marzipan finish with size and length. This is one of the most balanced and complete versions of Le Dix to date. Drink from 2014–2022. Pasternak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). The Dijon clones (667 and 777) used in this wine yield unusually pure, intensely clean flavors of raspberries, cherries and anise, at a moderate alcohol level. The vineyard location and cool vintage must have contributed to the acidic bite. It’s a very fine wine—elegant and noble—but immature. You’ll want to cellar it for 5–6 years to allow it to show its stuff. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

93 Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Fantastic fruit,

tantalizing acidity and overall balance mark this Pinot. It’s ripe with cherries, pomegranates, rhubarb and persimmons, while plentiful new oak is perfectly in keeping with the underlying power. Drink now, after proper decanting, or age over the next 5–15 years, as it gradually reveals different sides of itself. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

93 Linked 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). This is a very expensive Cabernet, but

it also tastes dramatic and powerful. The chocolate, blackberry, currant and oak flavors are massive, while the tannin-acid structure is just about perfect. Feels as lush as California Cab gets, but never loses integrity or balance. Should age well for the next 10 years. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $120

93 Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a

big, vital, dramatic Pinot Noir that shows its fine terroir with enormously concentrated raspberry and cherry fruit, balanced by fine acidity, subtle tannins and a bite of cherry-pit bitterness. It’s a great wine that will benefit from 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $70


buyingguide

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Chico’s Run Doña Margarita Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). This wine was made from very specific Pinot Noir clones planted in a small block of the estate vineyard. It’s exceptionally ripe with raspberry and cherry flavors, and plenty of new oak. A big wine, it’s dark in color and impressive in weight, yet maintains a complex lightness of being. Drink now–2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). An awesomely rich Pinot Noir, this is a big wine that’s darkly colored and intensely layered with raspberry, chocolate, spice and mushroom notes. Lots of new oak shows up, but it’s balanced against the wine’s power. Delicious now, but should reward aging over the next eight years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $47

93 Reaper 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). This is a lovely Pinot Noir, with a translucent

ruby color. It’s dry, delicately structured, moderate in alcohol and complex. The cherry, pomegranate and persimmon flavors have a pleasant tea-like bitterness, along with earthy notes of mushrooms and sweet wild herbs. At this price, it’s one of the greatest bargains on the market. Unfortunately, only 800 cases are in circulation. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

93 Redmon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough and gritty, with hard tannins,

this is definitely astringent and dry, but it does show classic Napa character. Blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s rich in blackberry, black cherry, currant and dark chocolate flavors that finish long. It would be a mistake to drink this wine too young. Cellar it until 2018, and it should provide mature beauty well beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

93 St. Supéry 2009 Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Rutherford). Any warm California

region can ripen fruit to this degree, resulting in black-berry, cassis and chocolate flavors. But Napa’s special magic concerns the wine’s structure. Here, you’ll find fantastically firm tannins and quite a bit of acidity. Both give the wine the architecture to house all the richness. Drink now, after decanting, and over the next 10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

92 Balletto 2011 Burnside Road Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

With an alcohol reading of only 13.3%, this Pinot offers a refreshingly light alternative to darker, heavier bottlings in California. It’s silky in the mouth, despite some firm tannins, with subtle, complex raspberry, red currant, tobacco, mushroom, balsam and spice flavors. Lovely now, and should have no trouble developing in the bottle over the next eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $42

92 Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). An exceptionally good Pinot,

from a winery that frequently gets overlooked, perhaps because they’re not charging an arm and a leg. The wine is light and silky in the mouth, with alcohol well under 14%, and marked with crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins. The flavors are classic pomegranates, rhubarbs and black cherries. Should develop over the next 4–6 years. What a great value. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $29

92 Balletto 2011 Sexton Hill Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).

Marked by sheer lusciousness, this single-vineyard Pinot Noir delights with pure, intense raspberries, cherries and spicy persimmons, wrapped into a silky texture. With modest alcohol and a touch of oak, it’s a feminine wine, elegant and appealing, yet it packs plenty of power. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

92 Caliterra 2009 Cenit (Colchagua Valley). Cenit is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,

Carmenère, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The bouquet is meaty and dense, with deep black-fruit aromas along with herb and olive notes. The palate is loud and bangs around, then you get a lot of coconut, vanilla and ripe blackberry flavors. From a warm year, this is superripe and dark, with plenty of wood but also a lot of quality. Drink through 2017. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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92 Daou 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Rich, dense, soft and

incredibly concentrated, this Cabernet gives wave after wave of blackberry jam, chocolate, licorice and cedar flavors. Feels elegant, complex and fine. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $56

92 Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The vineyard

is near Sebastopol and the Green Valley, and the wine shows its cool-climate origins in the brisk terroir that gives the raspberry, sweet red cherry and persimmon fruit such bite. It’s enormously attractive to drink now for sheer lusciousness, but has the integrity to age for 10–15 years, perhaps longer, depending on your taste for older Pinot. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

92 Gary Farrell 2010 Stiling Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A strong,

punchy Pinot Noir, ungainly now for its immaturity, showing tons of jammy raspberries and cherries. The acidity is tart, which is good in a wine this rich, providing balance, and there’s also a scour of tannins. All indications suggest cellaring this wine for at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Luminesce Seven Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley).

This white blend is two thirds Sémillon, one third Sauvignon Blanc. It has continued to improve from vintage to vintage, and this is the best yet. A Washington take on Bordeaux blanc, it’s dry and fresh, with golden apple and sweet grain extending across the palate and on through a lingering, lightly peachy finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

92 Longoria 2010 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The alcohol on this

bottling is lower than most Fe Ciegas have been in the past, reflecting the cool vintage. The wine seems more austere than in the past, withholding a bit of the early appeal it used to show. Nonetheless, it’s wonderfully structured in acids and tannins and very dry, with a judicious application of oak, and there are intricate flavors of cherries, red currants and herbs. Seems like it could shine with age, so give it six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

92 Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Char-donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). A very

nice interpretation of coastal Chardonnnay, from this increasingly well-regarded vineyard. It’s rich in notes of peach smoothie, pineapple tart, buttered toast, vanilla, honey and creamy lees, yet manages to finish dry. Brightened by crisp acidity, it never loses a sense of pin-pointed focus. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

92 Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley).

With this bottling, Marimar Estate confirms itself as one of the two best, most consistent producers of Albariño in California, along with Longoria. The wine is brilliant, with brisk acidity, dryness, modest alcohol and complex flavors of citrus fruit and zest, minerals, white tobacco and ripe figs. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

92 Matanzas Creek 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). The winery held this

Chardonnay back a year later than their far more expensive Journey bottling. Hard to say why, but the consumer is the beneficiary. That extra bit of aging has mellowed the wine, giving it a creamy, buttery richness. It has good acidity, too, that gives a lift to the ripe tropical fruits. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

92 Minassian-Young 2011 Grenache-Cinsault Rosé (Paso Robles). California

rosé is awfully hard to get right. It’s usually too sweet, too heavy or both. With this Grenache-Cinsault blend, Minassian-Young knocks it out of the park. The wine is dry, delicate, modest in alcohol, and complex, with subtle peach, rosehip tea, orange zest, watermelon and spice flavors. A great bargain, but only 64 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $16


buyingguide

92 Peters Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). Quite a good Cabernet,

pure and intense in varietal characteristics of black currants, but balanced and elegant. The tannins are smooth, the finish complex and long in spices. Delicious as it is now, your best bet is to cellar this Cab for 6–8 years, and possibly longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $52

92 Scratch 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Scratch is a very promising

inaugural Pinot Noir from Sabrine Rodems, who’s also the winemaker for Wrath and Kori. It shows the vibrant fruit of the Highlands, with potent raspberry, cherry and persimmon flavors, yet is dry and balanced in acids and tannins, with a super-long finish. Possesses that hard-to-define characteristic of class. Great now, and you can hold it several years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Shafer 2010 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). This

proprietary bottling from Shafer is always a huge wine. The 2010, which contains a splash of Petite Verdot, is gigantically packed with blackberry jam, black currant, dark chocolate and sweet oak, courtesy of 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. The wine is a bit of a bully now, but it has the balance to age. Give it until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $72

92 St. Supéry 2009 Élu Estate Bottled Red Wine (Napa Valley). Based on Cabernet

Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend is very rich in chocolate, blackberry and cherry fruit. New French oak adds notes of sweet toast and vanilla. That famous Napa structure of tannins and acids lends elegance to the ripeness. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

92 Two Sisters 2010 Courtney’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Everything

about this Chardonnay speaks of class. It’s dry and superbly structured in acids and tannins, and shows a chalky minerality that lends substance to the tropical fruit and honeysuckle flavors. Two Sisters is assembling a great track record with this bottling. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

92 Ventisquero 2008 Pangea Apalta Vine-yard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Among

New World Syrahs, this is an exciting, full-force wine with potent black-fruit aromas mixed with fine wood scents and tobacco. The palate is big but deft, with freshness along with natural power. Flavors of earthy, roasted berry and cassis end in a mellow, toasty, chocolaty finish. This is Apalta Syrah at its best. Drink now–2018. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Williams Selyem 2011 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Shows

the usual Williams Selyem Chardonnay profile of huge fruit and flashy oak. This opulent wine would be over-the-top except that it’s balanced by crisp, lemony acidity, and somehow retains a tight core with a gravitational tug that keeps the richness focused. Impressive now for sheer power, and should hold well for another 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

92 Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

This fresh, softly mellow and creamy wine is utterly captivating with bright summer red-berry and tree-fruit, vanilla, cherry liqueur, brown sugar and toast flavors. Absolutely delicious now, it is a silky feast for the senses and should easily negotiate the next 8–10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

92 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a pretty Pinot that’s light and

silky on the palate, and comforting in its moderate alcohol and spicy, exotic flavors. It offers waves of wild forest berry pie, baking spice, sweet-and-sour persimmon and sandalwood flavors that are intriguingly complex. Absolutely delightful now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $49

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91 Balletto 2011 Winery Block Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With moderate

alcohol, this Pinot is silky and delicate in the mouth, with excellent acidity. Yet it’s intense in sunshiney-ripe raspberries and cherries, as well as a hint of mushrooms that will become more pronounced with age. Defines the lighter style of California Pinot, in a gracious, elegant style. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

91 J. Christopher 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun-

tains). The first impression is of strawberry preserves, not jammy but with the texture and loose-knit fruit flavor of a fruit spread. Behind it are lip-licking veins of licorice and cola, finishing with dusty tannins. Chehalem dust? Don’t rule it out. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50

91 Kiona 2008 Cyclops (Red Mountain). Cyclops is 80% Red Mountain Syrah, with

Grenache, Mourvèdre and some Roussanne filling out the rest. It might have been forged in steel, as it captures the core of metal and mineral, the stiff tannins, and the compact, dense red and black fruits of the AVA. Bright, tart berry fruit is underscored with light suggestions of clean earth. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Marimar Estate 2010 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). There’s a hard minerality in this Chardonnay, like a lick of cold steel. That, plus the acidity, balances the fine, complex tropical fruits and green apples, as well as the butterscotch spice from oak barrels. The result is a complex wine that’s dry and fairly full-bodied. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

91 Minassian-Young 2011 White Roussanne -Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). An

interesting wine that’s far more subtle than the price suggests. Blended from Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, it displays a complex balance of fresh fruits, herbs, cashews, smoked meats and vanilla, while remaining lively in acidity and fundamentally dry. Easily the best white wine yet from Minassian-Young. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

91 Six Sigma 2009 Reserve Tempranillo (Lake County). Dark, robust and earthy, with

a pronounced smell and taste of caramel, this Tempra-nillo develops in lovely ways in the glass, so let it breathe. Its earthy character hints at dust, and the wine is soft, light and smooth. Enjoy with paella or grilled seafood. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

91 Geoff Tate 2010 Insania Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-Cabernet

Franc (Columbia Valley). Produced by Three Rivers for celebrity winemaker Geoff Tate, this new Insania is a full-on Bordeaux blend, with all five red grapes in the mix. It’s a powerful wine, with heavy metal flavors of deep black fruits and thick tannins. Pair it with a juicy steak or Kobe beef burger and rock on. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

91 Ventisquero 2008 Vertice Apalta Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). This is a bold, fruity,

muscular blend that’s 100% New World in its darkness, ripeness and heft. It’s earthy and full of cola and herbs on the nose, while the palate is rugged and delivers core blackberry, spice, coffee and herbal flavors. A dry, ripped, peppery tasting finish is a proper ending. Drink now–2017. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

90 Altaïr 2009 Sideral (Rapel Valley). After a few years when Altaïr’s wines strayed toward

being too herbal and rustic, this is cleaner and easier to like. It’s still showing the winery’s typical herbal-olive aromas and flavors, but it’s smooth in the mouth, with deep flavors of blackberry, cassis, licorice and cocoa. A solid, earthy finish with flavors of toast, coffee and herbs qualifies as complex. Drink now–2016. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $25


buyingguide

90 Balletto 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This is a very good price for

a Zinfandel this fine. It’s fairly delicate in mouthfeel for a Zin, with a light silkiness, and the tannin-acid architecture is elegant. As for the actual flavors, they’re intense in red fruits, currants, sweet licorice and pepper. Hard to imagine a better wine for drinking over the next few years with barbecue. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

90 Clif Family 2011 Riesling (Mendocino). Fragrant with peach aromas and wet-stone

minerality, this dry Riesling is well integrated, smooth and refreshing. It is delicious on its own as an apéritif or will make a mellow partner to all manner of appetizers, especially those with seafood and a twist of heat or chili spice. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $22

90 Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and ripe, with Cabernet

fruit swamping the mouth with jammy blackberries, cherries, currants and chocolate. As fruity as it is, it’s well structured, with firm tannins and a fine edge of acidity. Beautiful to drink now, but give it some breathing time after opening, or decant. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Grgich Hills 2009 Carneros Selection Estate Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This

wine is tight and citrusy now, with a kick of acidity. It’s elegantly structured, but not showing much generosity, despite a core of lemondrop candy, green apple and honeysuckle flavors. Give it a few years to develop. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

90 J. Lohr 2010 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is rich, ripe and

succulent, with blackberry and black currant flavors. As decadently fruity as it tastes, the finish is firm and dry. There’s lots of balanced elegance in this drink-me-now Cabernet. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

90 J. Lohr 2009 Tower Road Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). A really nice wine with plenty

of dark, dense fruit. It is dry and tannic, and packed with blackberry, blueberry and meat notes that give way to hints of violets. So yummy now, it’s hard not to pop the cork. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

90 Kenneth Volk 2011 Jaybird Unoaked Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). With

this bottling, Kenneth Volk has produced the quint-essential cool-climate, unoaked Chardonnay. The grape variety reveals itself strongly, with classic peach and tropical fruit flavors that are very ripe, almost apricoty. The Santa Maria Valley’s chilly climate shows up in brisk, mouthwatering acidity, while the finish is thoroughly dry. Additional richness was provided by sur-lie aging, which brings creamy notes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

90 Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Clean, vibrant in acidity

and ripe in fruit, with lemon and lime flavors accented with a hit of green gooseberries. The finish is totally dry and stimulating. The cool 2012 vintage has given this wine elegance, making it a another value after the 2010 and 2011. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

90 Louis M. Martini 2010 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Alexander Valley). It’s really easy to

like now for its rich black currant, cherry and chocolate flavors. The tannins are firm and ripe, and there’s a lovely balance of acidity and oak. This is one of the best Martini Alexander Valley Cabs to date. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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90 Marilyn 2010 Meritage (Napa Valley). Very rich and elaborate with blackberry, cherry and

cassis flavors, this wine is so tasty, it’s easy to drink glass after glass. The tannins are firm, but soft and complex. Made from all the classic Bordeaux varieties, it’s classy and elegant, and will hold in the bottle for years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Nickel & Nickel 2010 Suscol Ranch Merlot (Napa Valley). This wine is young, fruity and

tannic, in the house style. The 2010 is particularly rich and ripe with cherries, but complex, intense and worth repeated sipping. A very good representation of a Suscol Merlot. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $53

90 Ninquén 2009 Ninquén Mountain Vine-yard (Colchagua Valley). This Syrah-Cab

blend is an oaky specimen with no shortage of vanilla, cream and sawdust on the nose. In the mouth, it’s quite rich, almost to the point of being syrupy. Flavors of blackberry, toast, vanilla and popcorn announce even more generous oak, while the finish is warm in feel, with baked fruit, mint and vanilla flavors. Drink now–2017. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This

Cabernet needs time. It’s rich and ripe with blackberry jam, black currants, dark chocolate and sweet, smoky oak, but very tight and astringent in tannins. Give it at least six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $58

90 Twenty Bench 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For the price, you get a

Cabernet that shows some pretty good Napa character. It’s ripe and forward with black currants with tough tannins and a hit of sweet oak. Lots going on, and could even age for a few years. If you drink it now, give it a couple hours of airing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Venteux 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This Cab is soft and lush with cherry,

red currant and anise flavors that linger long into a spicy finish. It gains extra points for the tannin-acid structure, which is so easy to like. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

90 Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard El Rulo Estate Carmenère

(Colchagua Valley). Although this smells a bit flat and earthy, cool, herbal berry aromas as well as coffee and spice make this inviting and easy to like. A flush, jammy palate maintains its pulse, while a mix of spicy black fruits, licorice, espresso and chocolate flavors end long and lightly herbal. Drink this cuddly wine sooner rather than later. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Bernau Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

Sourced from 30-year-old, self-rooted vines, this limited cuvée is the best of the 2010’s from WVV. Elegant, aromatic and well crafted throughout, it gathers itself into a concentrated middle, with sour cherry candy appeal. There’s good length and a tart, refreshing kick to the finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $45

90 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s a fresh, lilting quality to

this Pinot, a silky airiness that feels weightless on the palate. Doubtless that’s due to the moderate alcohol. But there’s nothing light about the flavors, which are complex in black raspberry pie, softened Dr. Pepper cola, butterscotch, toast and spices. A beautiful Russian River Pinot made for drinking now with upscale fare. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $49


buyingguide

90 Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). Tasted

in early spring, this Chard was still tingly with acidity, but by the time you read this, everything should have calmed down. It’s terrifically ripe with green apple, nectarine and tropical fruit flavors that are so rich, you won’t even miss the oak. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $37

89 Ghost Pines 2010 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County-

Sonoma County). Soft and delicious, this is for drinking now, with a certain elegant fanciness. The blackberry, cherry, currant and oak flavors are complex and worth repeated sipping. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

89 J. Lohr 2009 Cuvée Pom Red Wine (Paso Robles). Very rich and flamboyantly layered,

this Merlot-based wine is ripe in cherries, red currants and cocoa. It’s a little forward in its charms, giving easily of itself in a fleshy, oaky way, but it sure is enjoyable. Drink over the next six years, especially with lamb chops or char-broiled steak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

89 J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E Red Wine (Paso Robles). Just under five years in age, this

wine’s Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant profile shows through its full-bodied mouthfeel, dense tannins and cassis flavor. It’s a big, new-oaky wine that’s forward with concentrated fruit through the finish. A bit of a show-off now, it should benefit from 5–6 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

89 J. Lohr 2010 Los Osos Merlot (Paso Robles). This is a beautiful red wine to drink

now for its rich, ripe flavors and overall balance. It’s soft in acids and fine in tannins, offering heady waves of black cherries, currants and chocolate. Easy to find, with nearly 75,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 J. Lohr 2010 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). A polished

Cabernet from a winery that knows how to produce super-drinkable Cabs at affordable prices. It’s stylishly dry, with oak-infused blackberry jam, currant and mocha flavors. Shows a deliciousness factor that makes the price a real bargain. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

89 Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Epicenter Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Sourced from one

of the older vineyards in the region, Mettler has stayed true to Lodi’s larger Zinfandel style with Epicenter, a wine that’s black as night with notes of dark berry, plum, tar and brick, as well as a hint of tobacco and dark chocolate. Layered and complex, it’s full bodied, but retains enough acidity to taste balanced despite its oak and ample alcohol. Enjoy with hearty fare. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $20

89 Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Lodi). Black in color

and super earthy with reams of smoke, this Lodi Petite Sirah has 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc blended in, giving it a touch of finesse. The soft tannins are balanced by the wine’s heft as well as the permeating aromas and flavors of charcuterie, tobacco and blackberry jam. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

89 Minassian-Young 2010 Tannat (Paso Robles). This variety hails from the Madiran

region of France. The name suggests the wine’s most pronounced feature, its tannins. They’re tough, but sweet and ripe, and will play well now against rich barbecue. The flavors themselves are spicy, suggesting raspberries, black pepper and grilled meat. A good, sound, interesting wine to try as an alternative to Syrah or Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 13

89 Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet

Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This is seriously spicy on the bouquet, where a mix of earth, pepper, herbal notes and cassis set up a stocky body with a condensed feel and ample oak. Heavy black-fruit flavors are hard at first but settle well, leaving mint and licorice notes along with a dark, toasty, herbal finish. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Waterstone 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Nearing four years of age, this Pinot is delicious

to drink now. It’s mellow and silky, with just enough acidity to give the raspberry and red currant flavors zest. This is Waterstone’s most complete Pinot Noir in many years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 William Hill Estate 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a lush Merlot that’s seductive

and rich. It has lovely cherry, chocolate and oak flavors. The best thing about it is the structure, which is firm and balanced. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Casa Rojo 2009 Fauno Organic Grapes Garnatxa Negra (Priorat). This is a big,

modern, warm Garnacha with a lot of oak and vanilla on the bouquet as well as blackberry and cassis. It’s jammy on the tongue, but there’s enough acidity to keep the pulse up. Dark black cherry, berry and rubbery flavors are followed by end-notes of raisin, chocolate and vanilla. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Kenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is a pretty good Cab-

ernet, showing some real fanciness, with soft tannins framing blackberry, currant, anise and herb flavors and a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Not an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Parcel 41 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a good value for a sophisticated Merlot from

Napa Valley. It’s not an ager, but it’s delightful now for its dryness, smooth tannins and complex cherry and red currant flavors with hints of herbs and sweet peas. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

88 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Eakle Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This

dry, tannic wine is astringent now, in the way of a young Cabernet. It has a heart of ripe blackberries and currants, and finishes dry and clean. There’s a rustic edge that suggests drinking over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

87 Silverado 2012 Miller Ranch Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).

This is dry, but lushly fruity, with sour-candy pineapple, lemon, lime and white-sugar flavors leading to a clean finish. This bottling for Silverado has been variable over the years, but worth checking out. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

87 Wente 2010 Sandstone Estate Merlot (Livermore Valley). This is a straightforward

Merlot with herbal aromatics, oaky tannins and a layering of quiet raspberry and spice. Well priced for the quality and food-friendly nature of this wine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15


buyingguide

85 Austerity 2011 Proprietary Red Wine (California). This is an easy red blend that’s

soft and clean, with lush cherry jam, red licorice and mocha flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Kirkland Signature 2010 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

It’s hard to fall immediately in love with this Cabernet, despite the fancy Oakville address, as the tannins are so firm. But it’s dry and clean, and although the tannins are the star—bold and astringent—there’s black fruit there, too, to help it along. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $19

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Meritage (Rutherford). This doesn’t show any

Rutherford character; in fact, it could come from just about anywhere. But it’s a proper Cabernet, dry and full-bodied, with simple black-currant and oak flavors, and the price is right. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $14

sPirits

92 Filibuster Dual Cask Kentucky Straight

Bourbon Whiskey (USA; MS Trading LP, Bardstown, KY). Aged in American oak casks, then finished in “white-wine seasoned French oak barrels,” this honey-hued whiskey has rich, powerful aromas of apricots and butterscotch. On the palate, surprising floral accents tran-sition into honey and rounded stone-fruit notes, with a bit of a

tannic pucker on the finish. abv: 45% Price: $43

89 Dad’s Hat Pennsyl-vania Rye Whiskey

(USA; Mountain Laurel Spirits, Bristol, PA). Going back to colonial days, Pennsylvania had a long tradition of distilling sweeter, more robust Monongahela rye—also called Pennsylvania rye. Dad’s Hat is giving that style a resurgence. The bright and fruity scent mixes vanilla and tropical fruit. The flavor also has a funky edge, like overripe bananas and honey,

finishing with sparks of spicy ginger. Silky texture. abv: 45% Price: $43

Beer

93 Ayinger Bräuweisse Hefe-Weizen (Hefe-weizen; Ayinger Brewery, Germany). This

beer is a classic, showing all of the hefeweizen hallmarks: cloudy golden color in the glass with a huge, frothy head, gorgeous lacing and upfront aromas of wheat, banana, yeasty spice and lemon. The body is smooth and creamy yet clean, lifted by medium carbonation. On the palate, flavors of wheat-bread dough and earthy spice dominate, followed by notes of lemon peel, pepper and clove on the finish. This is an easy-drinking selection of moderate alcohol that’s perfect for summer sipping. Pair it with barbecued or grilled chicken, mild cheeses or summer salads. Merchant du Vin. abv: 5.1% Price: $4/500 ml

Beer

93 Brasserie du Bocq Blanche de Namur (Witbier; Du Bocq Brewery, Belgium).

This is a well-made, traditional Belgian witbier that’s new to the Merchant du Vin portfolio, having just launched in the U.S. this May. Named after Princess Blanche of Namur—who married King Magnus of Sweden in 1336 A.D.—this wit shows forward scents of orange peel, under ripe pear, coriander, clove, soft pepper and clean wheat. Those notes follow through on the light- to medium-bodied palate, with additional nuances of licorice and earthy spice that linger onto the finish. The bright carbonation and brisk citrus flavor, as well as the low alcohol, make this a great warm-weather selection. Merchant du Vin.abv: 4.5% Price: $10/750 ml

92 Ayinger Urweisse Authentic Bavarian Dark Weizen (Dunkelweizen; Ayinger

Brewery, Germany). The nose of this dunkel boasts soft caramel and roasted malt notes, with additional hints of raw dough, fresh banana and baking spice. The rich mouthfeel is full-bodied and round, almost chewy, with intense wheat and yeast flavors that are lifted by medium carbonation. The finish is clean and refreshing. Overall, this is well balanced, flavorful and remarkably accessible. Merchant du Vin. abv: 5.8% Price: $4/500 ml

91 Samuel Adams Boston Lager (Vienna-style Lager;

The Boston Beer Co., MA). This is a classic that will never go out of style, so clean yet flavorful. A golden- amber col-or with a frothy off-white head, this boasts upfront aromas of earthy, floral hops that mingle seamlessly with notes of caramel malt and sweer orange citrus. Resiny hop characteristics add depth to the palate, with additional accents of roasted malt and caramel sauce. The fin-ish is smooth and dry, with a touch of

bitterness. Pair with grilled salmon or strip steak. abv: 4.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

WineMag.com | 15

Best Buys

90 Wente 2011 Louis Mel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). Wente remains

remarkably adept at making very good wines in big volumes at fair prices. This is a textbook example—a crisp, layered and complex SB that’s as floral as spring, generous in acidity and lemony on the finish. Pair with shellfish, chicken or goat cheese on crackers. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Bogle 2010 Essential Red (California). This wine is sensationally rich and ripe with wild

cherry, mocha, anise and tobacco flavors, with a long, spicy finish. It really impresses for sheer deliciousness. The blend is Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. It’s easy to find, with production an incredible 125,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

89 Three Rivers 2011 River’s Red Wine (Columbia Valley). A very fine edition of

River’s Red, this returns Merlot to the first chair (55%) position, with Syrah and Cab Franc splitting the rest. Sturdy, chewy, bone dry, tannic and authoritative, it’s a quintessential steak wine. Cassis, earth, hints of dried mushroom and those stiff but powerful tannins combine to make this a standout at the price. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $14

Best Buys

88 Wente 2011 Morning Fog Estate Char-donnay (Livermore Valley). A great value

from Wente, this is a layered, bright and intensely lemon-tinged Chardonnay, worth stocking up for simple dinners and get togethers where you know a lot of people will want to drink white. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Vicente Gandia 2010 El Miracle by Mariscal Old Vine Garnacha (Valencia).

After a slightly mossy bouquet, this unfolds in broad, chunky style. It offers good balance and mouthfeel, with lightly herbal flavors of dark berry fruits, tobacco and leather. A mildly herbal-tasting finish is plump and solid in feel. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Courtney Benham 2011 Lucca Red Wine (North Coast). A nicely balanced red blend,

this is high toned with smooth tannins and dark cherry and plum flavors amid a twist of black licorice. A fine wine for a crowd or easy mid-week drinking. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

Best Buys

86 Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s a great

deal for a soft, plush and easy-drinking Italian red that would pair with lasagna or fettuccine with meat ragù. You will detect fresh notes of blackberry and blueberry as well as dried aromas of cassis and candied raspberry. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Cavit 2011 Collection Oak Zero Char-donnay (Trentino). This Italian Chardonnay

shows ripe tones of melon, peach and ripe tangerine. It feels easy and soft in the mouth and shows subtle fragrances of white mountain flower as well. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

85 Kirkland Signature 2010 Old Vine Zin-fandel (Sonoma County). It’s all about

simple, jammy cherry and blackberry, brown sugar and sweet oak flavors for this Zin. But it has a wonderful tannin-acid structure, making it a sophisticated barbecue wine. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $10


buyingguide

Best Buys

85 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Char-donnay (Columbia Valley). This wine

is slightly spritzy and sugary, with simple yet clean apple flavors. The finish is sweet, quick and pleasantly quaffable. Best to chill it down before drinking. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Valley). This has a strong start

with aromas of black fruits and licorice. It’s rather light in color, with fruit flavors of ripe raspberry and a little funk in the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $10

correctionsIn the May 2013 issue, the review for the Pence Ranch 2010 Westslope Pinot Noir incorrectly identified the vineyard location as Sta. Rita Hills; the correct location is Santa Barbara County.

91 Lynmar 2011 Chardonnay (Russian Riv-er Valley). This is the most broadly appealing

Chardonnay of Lynmar’s wonderful 2011 offering. It makes all the right moves, with fine acidity and a hint of minerals giving structure to the tropical fruit, buttered toast and spice flavors. It’s the kind of wine that makes Chard lovers smile. Best of all, it costs considerably less than the winery’s other Chards and is nearly as good. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

91 Marimar Estate 2010 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Grgich Hills 2009 Carneros Selection Es-tate Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full re-

view see page 10. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

90 Kenneth Volk 2011 Jaybird Unoaked Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full

review see page 10. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

90 Longoria 2011 Rita’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). New oak

dominates this Chardonnay, along with brisk acidity. Be-neath the buttered toast and butterscotch are intensely concentrated tropical fruit flavors. The wine is a little linear now, possibly because the vines are quite young. Give it 2–3 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

90 Lucia 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This has the look and feel of a

fine white Burgundy, with expressive acidity, pinpointed oak, rich creaminess and a certain stony minerality. Yet the fruit is pure California, tropical and succulent. The wine is from the Pisoni family. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

90 Talbott 2011 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

Another fine Chardonnay from this producer. It’s typical of the vineyard, showing intensely concentrated tropi-cal and citrus fruit and green apple flavors, enhanced with mouthwatering acidity. Vertical tastings of this bot-tling show its ability to slowly evolve in the bottle over as much as eight years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

90 Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re-


89 Failla 2011 Haynes Vineyard Chardon-nay (Coombsville). Failla reaches into this

new appellation within Napa Valley for this vineyard-designated Chard. It’s a little heavier and softer than the Chardonnays from Sonoma County usually associated with the winery. Very rich in tropical fruits and pears, while the oak is lavish in vanilla and buttered toast. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $58

89 Flora Springs 2011 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This wine

shows the hand of the winemaker in the buttered toast, vanilla, crème brulée, honey and creamy lees that domi-nate the palate. The underlying fruit is a little thin, sug-gesting tangerines and papayas. The price-quality ratio is fair. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 Kenneth Volk 2009 Santa Maria Cuvee Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). A few

years of bottle age have softened and mellowed this Chard, making it very nice for drinking now. It has love-ly orange, Asian pear and mango flavors, with just the right touch of oak, and a rich, creamy mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

88 Balletto 2011 Teresa’s Unoaked Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Very

ripe and fruity, offering wave after wave of pineapple, orange, mango, peach, green apple and vanilla. Tastes honeyed and ripe in fruity essence, but fundamental-ly this is a dry wine. Brilliant acidity helps to provide a clean balance. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $20

88 Calera 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Made in a more popular style than Calera’s Mt.

Harlan bottling, this Chard features lush flavors of pine-apple and orange jam, honey and vanilla. The acidity is bright and mouthwatering. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $18

88 Davis Bynum 2011 River West Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Wine-

maker Greg Morthole plays all the bells and whistles on this Burgundian-style Chardonnay. Barrel fermentation brings toast and sweet vanilla to the tropical fruit and green apple flavors, while the full malolactic fermenta-tion adds notes of buttered popcorn. The acidity is racy and clean. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Hideaway Creek 2008 Chardonnay (Carneros). This bottling is showing its age,

with the fruit character picking up a hazelnut, brown butter, honey and mushroom character. A very interest-ing wine, and worth the price to see how a proper Char-donnay ages. Drink over the next year or two before it falls apart. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $19

88 La Crema 2011 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Attractive for its rich creami-

ness, this Chard aims for the popular style and suc-ceeds. It’s soft and rich in orange, peach, apricot and mango fruit, with sweet-oak overtones of vanilla and buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

88 Lynmar 2012 Laguna Ridge Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Lynmar has released this,

the first of their 2012 Chardonnays, early, in order to let the fruit star. It’s flashy, like a conga line of pineapples, oranges, mangoes, limes and papayas. Tasty, direct and appealing, it would be amazing with bacon-wrapped shrimp. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

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88 Lynmar 2011 Monastery Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is one of Lyn-

mar’s most expensive Chardonnays, of their six 2011s. It’s also one of the most forward and oakiest. Your first impression is of sweet buttered toast, sprinkled with brown sugar and drizzled with melted butterscotch. Then the tropical fruits kick in, brightened with citrusy acids. It’s an impressive feat, but the wine feels over-worked, and lacks the sustaining interest of Lynmar’s other bottlings. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $70

88 Mayacamas 2010 Chardonnay (Mount Veeder). Lean, dry and minerally, with tart fla-

vors of grapefruit, lemon peel and Asian pear. The acid-ity is refreshingly crisp. This is a bottling that rarely does well in blind tastings because it’s so austere. But it is elegant. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

88 Talbott 2011 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Logan Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-

lands). This is sort of a junior version of Talbott’s more expensive Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay. It resembles it in many ways, offering concentrated tropical and citrus fruit flavors, highlighted by brisk acidity and wrapped into a creamy texture. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

88 Wente 2011 Morning Fog Estate Char-donnay (Livermore Valley). For full review

see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Balletto 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Rus-sian River Valley). There’s lots of ripe fruit

in this rich Chardonnay. It brims with apricots, peach-es, mangoes and limes, brightened with crisp acidity and enhanced with the buttered toast of oak. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

87 Longoria 2011 Cuvée Diana Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). A good, rich Chardonnay, but

a little heavy, with creamy lees and oak dominating the citrus and tropical fruits. Still, the wine shows the clean elegance that Longoria wines always display. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

87 Luli 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-lands). Zippy, mouthwatering acidity and hon-

eyed flavors of pineapple and lemondrop give this Char-donnay a sweet-and-sour taste, like a Lifesaver candy. Shows its California origins in every sip of sunny fruit. Nice to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Manzoni 2011 North Highlands’ Cuvée Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

Ripe and oaky, this will appeal to those who love their Chards voluptuous. It’s strong in buttered toast, cara-melized wood, sweet-and-sour pineapple candy and le-mondrop flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Matchbook 2011 Old Head Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). A great value Chardonnay,

full of big green apple flavor, that’s well-made and not

overly complicated. With some texture and just enough heft, have it mid-week with lemony chicken. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

87 McFadden Vineyard 2011 Chardonnay (Potter Valley). This McFadden Chardonnay

is temptingly priced. A value in its offerings of honey and apple, it’s medium in weight but crisp, bright and clean in profile. On the finish, apple turns to lemon—al-ways a nice touch when accompanying food, from sea-food to chicken to pasta. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $16

87 Parducci 2011 Small Lot Blend Char-donnay (Mendocino County). A lush, crisp

Chardonnay from a cool-ish vintage that tastes most specifically of green apple with a tropical twist on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

87 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2011 KARIA Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This big-pro-

duction wine from Stag’s Leap hits all the popular Char-donnay buttons. It’s soft and sweet, with orange and pineapple jam, buttercream, vanilla and toast flavors, brightened by crisp acidity. The grapes come from the cooler, southern parts of the valley. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

87 Talbott 2011 Kali Hart Chardonnay (Mon-terey). Sweetly fruity and brisk in acidity, this

Chardonnay shows savory pineapple, orange and mango flavors that taste like an upscale fruit-juice drink. Oak gives it a toasty, buttery note, while the alcohol brings warmth and full-bodiedness. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

86 Broadway Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Carneros). Tasty in the mod-

ern style, with ripe, forward pineapple, orange, peach jam and buttered toast flavors. There’s good acidity, and even a hint of minerals, but the wine ultimately is lushly one-dimensional. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

86 Capture 2011 Ma Vie Carol Chardonnay (Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak). This

ambitious winery continues to struggle to find the for-mula for pricy Chardonnay. They turn now to this new Sonoma County appellation, but the result is still pretty ordinary. The wine is all about buttered toast, popcorn and fruit jam, with a creamy texture that’s universally appealing. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

86 Jacella 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). Simple and satisfying with lots of ripe pineapple

jam, orange sorbet, caramel, buttered toast, honey and cinnamon spices, in a creamy texture. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

86 Pure Cru 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley). Sweet vanilla, buttered toast and caramel

dominate this Chardonnay. It does have some peach and tropical fruit flavors, and is nicely smooth and creamy, but the oak stands out. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

86 Silver Buckle 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). A full-bodied yet crisp Chardonnay, balanced with

just a tiny hint of lingering ripeness. Fine for mid-week meals. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Stomping Girl 2011 Hyde Vineyard Char-donnay (Carneros). Sweet vanilla, white sug-

ar and orange jam flavors mark this Chardonnay. It has excellent acidity, and some stony, minerally notes. De-spite the esteemed vineyard source, it’s too oaky, and lacking in subtlety. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

85 Bernardus 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Satisfies the Chardonnay sweet

tooth, with vanilla, buttered toast and jammy apricot, orange, lime and honey flavors. There’s good Central Coast acidity for balance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

85 Camp 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun-ty). Shows plenty of Chardonnay character,

with ripe tropical fruit, peach, buttered toast and vanilla flavors, and a creamy texture. Nothing complicated or fancy going on, just a slightly ripe wine that many Chard fans will like. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Foley 2010 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Shows good Chardonnay character, with pleas-

ant citrus and tropical fruit, buttered toast and vanilla flavors. The acidity is fine, but it’s watery, lacking depth and fullness. Disappointing from this producer. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

85 Roche 2012 Stainless Steel Fermented Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). A simple

Chardonnay, it has strong acidity and equally strong va-nilla, peach and orange flavors. There’s even a hint of buttercream. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

85 Six Degrees 2011 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). A useful, all-purpose Chardonnay for par-

ties. Gets the job done with a creamy texture and hints of vanilla, buttered toast, Asian pears and green apples. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Wood Family Vineyards 2011 Para Mas Amigas Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).

An oaky, full-bodied, warm-climate Chardonnay with long lingering flavors of vanilla and coconut, as well as ripe apple crisp. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

84 Bridlewood 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey County). A Chardonnay at a decent price for

what you get. It’s sweet and creamy, with buttered toast, pineapple and peach fruit flavors that are accented with brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Grove Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). Chardonnays of this caliber are very price-

sensitive, but for $10 or less, this is a good value. It’s like a photocopy of a truly rich Chardonnay, but all the parts


buyingguideare there, making this Chard good for everyday drink-ing. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Hess Select 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Fairly simple Chardonnay, with

toned-down fruit, cream, sweet buttered toast and va-nilla flavors. The price is fair for what you get. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Ideology Cellars 2011 Blondie Chardon-nay (Napa Valley). This Chardonnay’s tropi-

cal and citrus fruit flavors are dripping with honey rich-ness. There’s also a lot of buttered toast and vanilla. Will appeal to all those Chard lovers out there who like ripe, lush wines. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $19

84 Kirkland Signature 2011 Chardonnay (California). Sweet and oaky, with buttered

toast, tangerine and apricot jam flavors. A simple and easy Chardonnay, in the modern style. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $8/1.5 L

84 MAD Wines 2010 24.4 Brix Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Bright in acidity,

which gives it a mouthwatering vitality. It’s also a little ripe with Meyer lemon fruit. The result is sweet-and-sour, with the finish turning sugary. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

84 Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Pretty standard

Chardonnay, with fruity, oaky flavors that are diluted, and a creamy texture. The finish is nice and dry and the acidity is balanced. It’s alright for the price. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

84 Stemmler 2011 Chardonnay (Carner-os). This simple wine tastes overly oaked, with

woody notes overwhelming diluted citrus, tropical fruit and lees flavors. The acidity is great. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $24

84 Tangley Oaks 2010 Lot #7 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Gets the Chardonnay job

done effectively, offering flavors of orange, papaya, but-tered toast, caramel, cream and vanilla honey. Pretty simple, but the price is right for what you get. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

83 Green Truck 2011 Chardonnay (Men-docino County). A very simple Chardonnay

with sour apple flavor. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

82 GEN 7 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Tastes and feels too buttery

to earn a better score, with awkward flavors of apricots and lemon peel. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

82 Materra 2011 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll). Soft and dull, with green pea, peach jam and

buttered toast flavors that finish a little sugary. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

82 Truett Hurst 2011 Eden Ridge, Barrel Se-lect Chardonnay (Mendocino County).

Simple and tasting of vanilla toffee, this Chardonnay, value-priced for sure, has a finish that’s puckeringly sweet. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $11

81 Harlow Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). This bargain-priced wine is oaky and bland,

with a smell of menthol. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

sauvignon Blanc

91 Rochioli 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This Sauvignon Blanc impresses

for subtle elegance. It’s not the biggest or the fruitiest, doesn’t dazzle with richness, and doesn’t club you over the head with oak. Instead, it offers dryness, crisp acid-ity and tart green apple, lemongrass, cream and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). For full review see page

10. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

90 Wente 2011 Louis Mel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). For full review

see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Marilyn Sauvignon Blonde 2011 Sau-vignon Blanc (Lake County). A wisp of a

wine, like Marilyn in her All About Eve years, before the buxom bravado kicked in. Clean, light in color, with an inviting floral aroma, this gentle wine is dry and deli-cious. Pair with shellfish and think of the star’s more in-nocent years. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Alta Maria 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Barbara County). Fresh as a daisy, with green

grass, lemon, lime and peach flavors that taste like they were just picked under the summer sun. Juicy acidity gets the mouth watering. The alcohol is modest, giving the wine a light delicacy. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Envy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). Envy has a very consistent track record

with this bottling. The 2011 is typical of the house style, off-dry and honeyed, with pleasant citrus and grass fla-vors that veer into riper tropical fruits. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

87 Mayacamas 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mount Veeder). Tastes like the grapes really

struggled to get ripe in this chilly vintage. The wine is bone dry and tantalizing in acidity, with green flavors of chlorophyll and gooseberry that just manage to veer into Meyer lemons. Difficult on its own, but gains a few points for elegance and a clean, steely minerality. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Merriam 2012 Willowside Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Intensely

fruity and ripe, with a fine edge of acidity and minerals. The orange, honey and nectarine flavors have a savory tang of gooseberry. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

87 Silverado 2012 Miller Ranch Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).


87 Six Sigma 2012 Asbill Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A textured and layered

Lake County SB that’s rich, but savory in style. With a big mouthfeel and tropical taste, pair with richer fare, like crab or lobster in butter. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Voss 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). You’ll find plenty of tart green gooseber-

ries in this dry Sauvignon Blanc. Yet there are also ripe grapefruit, kiwi and papaya flavors. It’s a refreshingly clean wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $21

86 Round Pond 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Round Pond’s track re-

cord with Sauvignon Blanc is pretty consistent. The wine is rarely great—almost never bad–but frequently satisfactory. The 2012 is one of their better efforts—a little ripe in profile—but clean and savory. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 Star Lane Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).

Elegant, dryish to off-dry and crisp in acidity, this Sau-vignon Blanc has forward flavors of gooseberries, limes, white sugar and vanilla. It’s clean and fine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

84 Kenwood 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (So-noma County). Nice and clean, but the sweet-

ness makes it almost a dessert wine. The sugary orange and peach flavors are balanced with good acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Luli 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). Don’t look for sunny California fruit in

this wine. It’s barely ripe, with green, gooseberry flavors barely breaking into nectarines. The aroma is marked by pyrazines, which give the wine a feline note. The fin-ish is dry and tart in acidity. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $18

84 Materra 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Oak Knoll). There’s fine acidity and classic citrus,

peach and gooseberry flavors in this Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a lovely wine, but it does finishes with a sugary feel. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

84 Merriam 2012 Danielle Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This Sauvi-

gnon Blancs boasts a great big hit of green gooseberry but tinged with ammonia. It’s dry and zippy in acidi-

buyingguide

WineMag.com | 19

ty, with enough citrus and vanilla to keep it balanced. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

82 Pedroncelli 2012 East Side Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This

is a soft white wine with sugary flavors of lemon, orange, date, nougat and vanilla candy bar. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $14

81 Green Truck 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A Lake County SB with very little in

the way of aromatics. It’s acceptable for everyday, but a generic white wine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

alBariño

92 Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vine-yard Albariño (Russian River Valley). For


90 Kenneth Volk 2011 Riverbench Vineyard Albariño (Santa Maria Valley). One of the

fuller-bodied Albariños out there, this bottling, from veteran winemaker Volk, is dense in cream, tangerine, Meyer lemon, hazelnut and spice flavors. It’s a complex wine that changes in interesting ways as it warms up in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

90 Longoria 2012 Albariño (Santa Ynez Val-ley). Over the years, Longoria has proven itself

to be one of the best producers of Albariño in Califor-nia. The 2012 bottling doesn’t disappoint. In its dryness, crisp acidity, sleek flavors and modest alcohol level, it defines the grape variety’s possibilities in the Golden State. The wine never saw oak. What you get are savory lemongrass and grapefruit flavors, with hints of honey and nectarines. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $23

Pinot gris/grigio

91 Longoria 2012 Pinot Grigio (Santa Bar-bara County). Longoria brings a deft touch to

this Pinot Grigio. The grapes were briefly fermented in tank, then bottled when the wine was only about four months old. The result is exceptionally fresh and lively, with tangy acidity brightening citrus, lemongrass, vanil-la and white pepper flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of zesty acidity in

this wine. Reviewed in March, it still had a spritz on the palate, although by the time of general release it should mellow out. It will still be a zingy wine, clean and al-most dry with orange, peach, mango and honeysuckle flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

85 Sonoma Oaks 2012 Pinot Gris (Sonoma County). A little on the sweet side, with sug-

ary green apple, orange and pineapple flavors. It’s clean

and crisp, making it a nice wine for summer picnics, at a good price. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $15

85 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2012 Pi-not Grigio (California). A useful wine, made

in the lush, mellow way that many Americans like their Pinot Grigio. It’s clean in acidity, with pleasant citrus, tropical fruit, green grass and vanilla flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $8

riesling

90 Clif Family 2011 Riesling (Mendocino). For full review see page 10.

abv: 13.2% Price: $22

88 Gustafson Family 2012 Heritage Tree Vineyard Estate Riesling (Dry Creek Val-

ley). There’s not a lot of Riesling growing in this warm-ish appellation of Sonoma County, which is normally Zinfandel country. But this is a very nice wine. It’s off-dry, with a sugary edge to the lemondrop, nectarine, ap-ple and honeysuckle flavors. The acidity is bright and tart, giving the fruit needed bite. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Scratch 2011 Riesling (Arroyo Seco). Un-mistakably Riesling from the petrol notes that

dominates. The winemaker calls it off-dry, but it tastes dry in citrus, white flower and mineral notes, probably due to the high acidity. Refreshingly low in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $25

white Blends

92 Clos Solene 2011 L’Or Blanc Viognier-Roussanne (Paso Robles). This is a gor-

geous wine that’s fat and smooth in nectarines, tan-gerine, custard and tropical fruits, with a kiss of sweet, smoky oak. The two varieties were co-fermented in this very happy marriage of a wine. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $65/375 ml

91 Minassian-Young 2011 White Roussanne -Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). For full

review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

89 Adelaida 2011 Version The Glenrose Vineyard (Paso Robles). Adelaida’s Rous-

sanne-Grenache blend can vary from vintage to vintage, but the cool 2011 has resulted in a successful bottling. The wine is full-bodied and dry, with rich flavors of fruits and berries. The oak is upfront, but fully in bal-ance, giving the wine a touch of butterscotch. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

88 Amador Foothill Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Shenandoah Valley).

With a touch of gooseberry and apricot, Amador Foot-hill’s 75% Sauvignon Blanc-25% Semillon blend is clean and easy, with a touch of earthy oak on the finish. A great value for spring and summertime sipping. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Pure Cru 2010 Purety (Napa Valley). Blended almost equally with Sauvignon Blanc

and Semillon, and aged in French oak, this white Bor-deaux-style wine has plenty to like. It’s ripe in Meyer lemons, limes, tropical fruits and peaches, brightened with crisp acidity. Finishes a little lush and ripe. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

82 Austerity 2011 White (California). What-ever the varieties are on this wine, and it’s not

disclosed, it’s soft, ripe and simple, with orange, peach and lime flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

82 Pedroncelli 2012 friends.white (Sonoma County). Soft, rich and simple, with flavors of

lemondrop candy and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

other white wines

92 Clos Solene 2011 Essence de Rous-sanne Roussanne (Paso Robles). This is

an elaborate wine that’s dense, complex and immense-ly enjoyable. It has a fleshy, meaty quality, like a but-tery veal piccata, alongside ripe white and yellow fruits. There’s a firm, minerally quality, highlighted by crisp acidity, and the finish is bone dry. Gets more interesting as it warms up in the glass. One of the best examples of Roussanne out there. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $65

90 Calera 2011 Viognier (Mt. Harlan). The cool 2011 vintage was kind to Calera’s Viogni-

er, helping to rein in the fruit which sometimes can be overwhelming. You still get plenty of tropical fruit and honeysuckle flavor, but it’s just part of a package that also includes acidity, oak and minerals. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

90 Uvaggio 2012 Secco Moscato Gial-lo (Lodi). Stainless-steel fermented from

100-percent Lodi-grown Moscato Giallo grapes, Uvag-gio’s yearly dry Moscato is always a good value and great tasting. This one is layered with spice, but it’s also very floral with a gentle imprint and a taste of ginger and lime. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

90 Von Strasser 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Di-amond Mountain). A very rich wine that’s

densely packed with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, va-nilla and spice flavors, yet surprisingly light on its feet. There’s a real kick of zesty acidity, and the finish is clean and ripe with fruit. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

87 Ampelos 2012 Phi Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). One of the more controlled, tighter

Viogniers out there, without showing the variety’s rich flamboyance. It could be a Pinot Gris, with brisk acid-ity and a clean, cold, steely mouthfeel, except that the citrus fruits do have rich suggestions of mangoes. Still, it shows tremendous elegance and will be delicious in many settings. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

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buyingguide87 Balletto 2010 Estate Gewürztraminer

(Russian River Valley). Good acidity in this Gewürz, with spice, orange and wildflower flavors that finish clean and off-dry. With moderate alcohol, it’s easy to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

86 Calera 2011 Aligoté (Mt. Harlan). This wine is a little short and abupt on the finish. It’s

very similar to a minor Chardonnay, with buttercream, vanilla and tropical and citrus fruits. The acidity is quite brisk, like a squirt of lime. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

86 Sorelle Winery 2012 Sogno Dolce Mus-cat Canelli (Lodi). Sweet with 30 g/L of re-

sidual sugar, Sorelle’s Muscat Canelli is light on its feet, and easy to enjoy in a picnic setting or leisurely coast through the California Delta through Lodi. At only 12.2 percent alcohol, it’ll make you happy without a head-ache. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $18

85 Alexander Valley Vineyards 2012 Gewürz (Mendocino County). Cold-fermented en-

tirely in stainless steel with no oak aging, this Mendoci-no County Gewürztraminer is waxy and fully aromatic with roses and a spicy sharpness. With a nice peach fin-ish, it would be great served cold with Thai food. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $12

sParkling wines

94 VML 2007 Blanc de Noir (Russian River Valley). VML is one of the newest wineries in

Sonoma County. They took over the site previously oc-cupied by Belvedere, in the heart of the Middle Reach of the Russian River. High ambitions have been real-ized with this beautiful bubbly. It’s really an exceptional wine—richly textured and creamy—with hints of straw-berries, lees, toast and vanilla, and none of the coarse-ness that can characterize lesser sparkling wines. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

83 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Blanc de Blancs (Napa Valley). The orange, vanilla and cream

flavors are tasty, but the texture is scoury and harsh in the mouth, with rough bubbles that cut with acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $30

rosés

92 La Grande Côte 2011 L’Estate Rosé (Paso Robles). This is one of the best rosés

on the market. With a pretty orange and copper color, the wine is dry, crisp and deeply flavored in fruits, yet feels delicate and subtle. The blend is Mourvèdre, Syr-ah and Grenache. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

92 Minassian-Young 2011 Grenache- Cinsault Rosé (Paso Robles). For full re-

view see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.3% Price: $16

90 Luli 2012 Rosé (Central Coast). This is an unusual blend of Grenache and Pinot Noir,

which are not often combined, neither in California nor in France. The winemaker is Jess Pisoni, and he has crafted a highly likeable blush. Pale in color and deli-cate in the mouth, it has ever-so-slightly lush flavors of orange tea, peaches and vanilla. The acidity is wonder-ful. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Lynmar 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). This darkly-colored wine

is a little on the heavy, fruity side for a rosé. But it’s fan-tastically delicious, offering waves of berries, cola and spices. The acidity is refreshingly high. You can drink this instead of a red wine with lighter meats, such as lamb or pork. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

90 Lynmar 2012 Rosé of Syrah (Russian River Valley). Great price for a blush wine this

sophisticated. Lynmar manages to tame Syrah’s power and exuberance into elegant sleekness, resulting in a dry, tart wine with vibrant raspberry, orange zest and vanilla richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $20

89 Sorelle Winery 2012 Bella E Rosa Rosé (Lodi). Perfectly salmon pink in color, this

blend of half-Sangiovese, half-Barbera, is light and re-freshing, with bright flavors of watermelon, cherry and mint. Just the tiniest bit ripe, yet finishing dry, it’s long lasting and satisfying, a good call for a summer’s day. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Gustafson Family 2012 Heritage Tree Vineyard Estate Rosé of Syrah (Dry

Creek Valley). Front-loaded with cherries, watermel-ons and pomegranates, with hints of violets, vanilla and spices, this is one of the richer, more full-bodied blush wines out there. Great picnic or beach wine. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

88 Pedroncelli 2012 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Lots of lusciousness in

this blush Zin. It may be technically dry, like the label says, but there’s a lush fruitiness to the strawberry, wa-termelon, vanilla and spice flavors. What a great sum-mer brunch wine this is. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

88 Xurus 2010 Sonatina Vineyard Rosé (Lake County). Made from Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, this wine is dark reddish-pink and unusual in its unadulterated cassis flavor and suggestion of charcute-rie. Intense and slightly smoky, it’s an interesting exam-ple of how Cabernet can be tamed to a rosé. It would pair interestingly with a cold steak salad. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

87 J. Lohr 2011 Gesture Grenache Rosé (Paso Robles). This is a charming wine–gen-

tle and silky and soft. The pink "eye of the partridge" color is especially pretty. The flavors are a fruity and

ripe, suggesting strawberries. A great summer wine that will pair well with lots of slightly sweet foods. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

86 Lucy 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Lu-cia Highlands). Crisp acidity makes this blush

wine clean and vibrant. You’ll find strawberry, vanilla, thyme and cinnamon spice flavors that finish ripe and lush. It’s a fine wine, delicately structured, and fairly priced. From Pisoni. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

86 Sobon Estate 2012 ReZerve Rosé (Ama-dor County). Sobon’s dry rosé (made from

96% Grenache grapes and 4% Syrah) is pinkish-red in color, brisk and structured with acidity, and a great, great value to boot. Drink on its own—plenty chilled—or find some fresh seafood and enjoy. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Muscardini 2012 Alice’s Vineyards Ro-sato (Sonoma Valley). There’s a pretty pink

"eye of the partridge" color on this blush wine. Brisk acidity makes the finish clean and minerally. The straw-berry and vanilla flavors finish just slightly off dry. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $22

84 Burt Street Cellars 2011 Rosé (Sonoma Coast). This wine is ripe and simple, with jam-

my raspberry and cherry flavors, but it’s clean and vi-brant in acidity. The blend is Pinot Noir, Syrah and Gr-enache. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Matchbook 2012 Estate Bottled Rosé (Dunnigan Hills). A rosé of Tempranillo, with

Syrah and Malbec blended in, Matchbook always offers good value on its wines, with this one basic and simple in its ripe raspberry and jasmine qualities. Drink cold. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

84 Merriam 2012 Rosé (Sonoma County). Dark for a rosé, and jammy, with the pink bub-

blegum and strawberry flavors and acidity remniscent of a mainstream Beaujolais. Drink up at picnics, on the beach or at Sunday brunch. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

84 Merriam 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Overtly ripe with jellied

raspberry and strawberry flavors. Smoky-sweet meats, such as ham or sausages, will pair well. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

84 Vinum 2012 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon may be

the hardest variety to make a rosé from because it yields such a big wine. Vinum tries their best, but despite good fruit and acidity, the wine is heavy, lacking the racy vi-vacity a great blush wine should have. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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dessert wines

88 Lynmar 2011 Divinity Late Harvest Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). This sug-

ary-sweet dessert Chardonnay tries hard to please, of-fering waves of honey, tangerine, mango and vanilla fla-vors. It’s tantalizingly delicious, but could be just a tad more concentrated, especially at this price. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50/375 ml

89 Balletto 2009 Vin de Paille Estate Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). Incredibly rich

and sweet with honey, apricot and orange flavors, this intense dessert wine is balanced with citrusy acidity. It’s super-delicious, long and gooey sweet on the finish. —S.H. abv: 10.8% Price: $65/375 ml

california red wines

Pinot noir

96 Williams Selyem 2011 Terra de Promis-sio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).


95 Failla 2011 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Lucky Failla gets to source

grapes from this vineyard that most winemakers would trade their left arm for. It’s lush, ripe and amazingly gen-erous in raspberries and cherries, yet retains an elegant balance, as well as fine, mouthwatering acidity. Part of the attraction is low alcohol, which lets the stones and earthy complexities of the wine shine through. This is really a brilliant wine—light, delicate and powerful. If you want to age it for eight years or so, you won’t be sorry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

95 Marimar Estate 2009 Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

94 Calera 2010 Selleck Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). If there’s one California Pi-

not Noir you cellar this vintage, make it this one. It’s a stone-cold guarantee. Light and silky in the mouth, with brisk acidity, it shows rich raspberry, cherry, red currant and sandalwood flavors that are deep and long. Has all the necessary balance to evolve many years, and should start showing bottle development after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $80

94 Failla 2011 Whistler Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A delicately structured,

low-alcohol Pinot from the Sonoma Coast that shows winemaker Ehren Jordan’s increasing fascination with this part of Sonoma County. The wine is light in texture, with savory wild cherry, licorice, sweet tobacco, mo-cha, bacon and spice flavors. That sounds like a wild as-sortment, but somehow it all comes together, in a wine

of singular focus and discernment. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

94 Gary Farrell 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full re-


94 Stemmler 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros). This very interesting wine treads

a delicate balance between exuberantly ripe persim-mons and cherries, and earthier notes of red tomatoes. But those tomatoes are rich and satisfying, like sum-mer heirloom varieties picked fresh off the vine that are sweet as a peaches. Veteran Stemmler, who can usual-ly be depended on to turn out serious Pinot Noir, has succeeded here, giving us a delicious wine for drinking now, but one whose balance should protect it for 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

93 Calera 2010 Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). There’s a delicacy to this Pinot

that makes it a welcome alternative to the big, clumsy style. The color is translucent, and the alcohol is rela-tively low, giving it a nice, bouncy mouthfeel. The depth of flavor is impressive, suggesting ripe forest raspber-ries and cherries, and a hint of mushrooms. It would be a pity to drink this wine before 2017. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

93 Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

93 Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review

see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

93 Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full

review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $70

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Chico’s Run Doña Margarita Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.6% Price: $47

93 Reaper 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coun-ty). For full review see page 6. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

92 August West 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). One of the best Russian River

Pinots you can buy at this price. Shows classically rich pomegranate, persimmon and cherry fruit, enhanced

with sweet oak, with a silky texture and a long, spicy fin-ish. Kudos to winemaker Ed Kurtzman for bringing it all together. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

92 August West 2011 Graham Family Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A

gorgeous wine that shows delicate silkiness and com-plexity, with a light, airy mouthfeel. Yet it’s enormously rich and concentrated in raspberries and cherries. Crisp acidity makes for a clean finish, making this Pinot worth repeated sipping. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

92 Balletto 2011 Burnside Road Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.3% Price: $42

92 Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. Cel-

lar Selection. abv: 13.7% Price: $29

92 Calera 2010 Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). This is delicious now for its rasp-

berry and cherry sweetness, accented with smoky oak and brightened by crisp acidity. It shows the elegance that Calera Pinots are known for. It’s complex enough to offer lots of pleasure, but you may want to age it for 6–8 years to let it mellow. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

92 Calera 2010 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). As usual, this is one of Calera’s lightest bottlings,

in both color and texture. It’s deceptively simple, show-ing softened cola and raspberry jam flavors that finish impressively long and spicy. It would be a mistake to dismiss it for early drinking. Give it a good six years in the cellar, and it could be stunning in 2020. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

92 Calera 2010 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). You can almost read through the

translucent ruby color of this wine, but there’s nothing light about it. Rich with cherries, it offers lots of plea-sure now, but with moderate alcohol, fine acidity, and minerality that gives the wine a foundation, it should hold in the cellar until 2018, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $42

92 Dolina 2011 Rio Vista Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This wine is silky and well-

balanced in acids and tannins, with judicious oak influ-ences framing complex cherry, red currant and spice fla-vors. Feels very rich, yet the alcohol is a modest 13.7% by volume. Coming after the high-scoring 2010 vintage, Dolina’s 2011 is fine to drink now, and should develop bottle notes over the next six years or so. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $30

92 Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re-



buyingguide92 Gary Farrell 2010 Stiling Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

92 Longoria 2010 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page

7. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

92 Scratch 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Stemmler 2010 Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Concentrated

and elusively complex in cherry, red currant and sandal-wood flavors, with a hint of red tomato and bloody red meat that testifies to the cool vintage. It’s a big, dense wine, but also quite tannic, and a little high in alcohol, giving it a full body. A bit ungainly now, but impressive nonetheless for sheer power. Give it six years in the cel-lar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

92 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.7% Price: $49

92 Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).


91 Balletto 2011 Winery Block Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review

see page 9. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

90 Davis Bynum 2011 Jane’s Vineyard Gar-field Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). Tightly wound still, this wine isn’t showing much yet beyond ripe cherries, pomegranates and new oak. Firm tannins and crisp acidity provide structure, and the finish is dry and long. But the balance and complex-ity suggest that this block selection will age well. Hold until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Failla 2011 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). At last Failla can use

this newl-approved appellation for their estate-grown fruit. The wine is concentrated in raspberry and cherry jam and sweet oak flavors. The acidity associated with this extreme western edge of Sonoma County, so near the ocean, is brisk and stimulating. The flavors are a lit-tle candied now, but you might try giving it 4–5 years to see if it gains bottle complexity. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

90 Kenneth Volk 2009 Santa Maria Cuvee Pi-not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A very rich,

ripe Pinot that merits its high score for the sheer Cali-fornia-ness of flavor. The fruit is enormously attractive with raspberries and cherries, yet fine tannins and acid-

ity provide the balance needed to make it feel round and graceful in the mouth. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

90 Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The Sober-

anes Vineyard is the source to well-regarded wines from Bruliam, Siduri and Bernardus. Lucia’s 2011 is a good followup to their 2010, showing fresh, jammy cherry and persimmon flavors, brightened with zippy acidity and finished with sweet oak. Will benefit from a few years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

90 Merryvale 2010 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros). Lovely to drink now for its

smooth, silky texture, dryness and balancing acidity. The flavors are wildly rich, suggesting cherry pie, red cur-rant, licorice, bacon and sandalwood. Good as it is, it will improve with 4–5 years in the bottle, picking up earthier dried fruit and mushroom notes. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $65

90 Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very good price for a nice,

silky, dry Pinot of this quality. It’s quite restrained, in keeping with the vintage, showing herb-inflected sour cherry candy, cranberry, red currant and spice flavors, brightened with zesty acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

90 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). For full review see page

11. abv: 13.6% Price: $49

89 Calera 2010 de Villiers Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). De Villiers is one of Cal-

era’s newest vineyards, and whether it’s a warmer site or simply comprised of showier clones, it’s forward in raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with lots of sweet, car-amelized oak. The finish is long and sweet in fruit, and the alcohol is well below 14% by volume. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $42

89 La Crema 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Nothing shy about this wine. It erupts

like a fruit volcano, offering wave after wave of rasp-berries, cherries and ripe persimmons, sweetened with vanilla and butterscotch tones of oak. The mouthfeel is all silk and satin. Drink now for sheer pleasure. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 MacMurray Ranch 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a rich,

delicious Pinot Noir. It spreads a fantail of raspberry and cherry jam sweetness across the palate, and then the acidity kicks in, providing fortunate balance. With a silky texture, it’s a lovely wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $37

89 Waterstone 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 Williams Selyem 2011 Westside Road Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). A little spare in concentration, yet elegantly con-structed, with vibrant acidity and some firm tannins framing pomegranate, sour-cherry candy, mushroom, baking spice and toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $69

88 Davis Bynum 2011 Jane’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A fine Pinot

from this veteran producer. They haven’t lost their deft touch despite changes in ownership. The wine is classic Russian River, showing full-throttle berry-cherry fruit, balanced with good acidity, while maintaining a delicate mouthfeel. It’s complex enough to warrant repeated sip-ping. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Lucia 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-lands). This is a darkly colored, rich wine that’s

uniquely savory. It floods the mouth with raspberry and cherry jam, mocha and sweet oak flavors. Best for drink-ing soon. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

88 MAD Wines 2010 Brix 24.5 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of ripe

raspberry and cherry fruit in this Pinot, with a rich touch of smoky oak and vanilla. It’s nice and light in the mouth, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. A great wine for the price that’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

88 Stemmler 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is the most accessible of Stemmler’s trio of

new 2010 Pinots. It offers rich raspberry, cherry and sandalwood flavors, and shows a fine balance of all its parts. Elegant enough to drink at the best restaurants, or just to uplift an ordinary hamburger on a summer evening. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

88 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). A little heavy and syrupy, especially for

Williams Selyem, but it’s utterly delicious in blackberry jam and root beer flavors that finish soft and sweet, yet tart. Very easy to polish off the whole bottle over a great steak. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $39

88 Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (So-noma County). Sweetly attractive in raspber-

ry and cherry jam flavors that are bright and zesty, while smoky oak brings spicy-sweet notes of vanilla bean and buttered cinnamon toast. Despite all the sheer luscious-ness, this Pinot finishes dry. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $39

88 Woodenhead 2010 Ritchie Vineyard Cin-der Cone Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). Lots of acidity gives the cherry and raspberry fla-vors a sour candy tartness that makes the mouth water. The mouthfeel is light and silky, as you want in a Pinot Noir. It’s a fine wine to drink now, with a good decant-ing, but try cellaring it for 5–6 years to see what kinds of earthy, mushroomy complexities emerge. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 23

87 Adelaida 2010 HMR Vineyard Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). The chocolate and black-

cherry jam flavors are a little too heavy and rich, lacking zest and complexity. But there’s no denying this Pinot is delicious to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

87 Alta Maria 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A bit on the brawny side of Pinot Noir,

with jagged tannins and plenty of full-bodied cherry fruit. Not a bad wine, but lacking the delicacy of the 2008 and 2009 vintages. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $28

87 August West 2011 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lots

of enjoyable cherry, currant, licorice and sandalwood flavors in this dry, crisp Pinot Noir. Firm tannins give it some toughness, but it doesn’t seem to be an ager, so drink over the next 3–4 years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

87 Babcock 2011 Psi Clone Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Shows a dry, acidic profile, with

tantalizing raspberry and sour-cherry candy and sweet oak flavors. The mouthfeel is silky and delicate. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

87 Babcock 2011 Slice of Heaven Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Was it the chilly vintage that

made this wine so elusive? Tasted in the spring, it was oaky and jammy with raspberries and cherries, with the astringent tannins of green herb tea. Hard to tell where it’s going, if anywhere, but it does have dryness and vital acidity in its favor. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $60

87 Ghostwriter 2011 Amaya Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Rich

and ripe with cherry, pomegranate, persimmon and spice flavors, with a nice, silky texture and fine tannins. The acidity is sharp, the alcohol refreshingly moderate. Could benefit from some time in the cellar. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $45

87 Healdsburg Ranches 2011 Appellation Series Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).

Good, but something of a letdown after the previous two vintages. Could it be the unusually chilly weather in 2011? The wine is delicately structured and dry, with crisp acidity framing subtle cherry and cranberry fla-vors. But it’s a little lacking in depth. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $25

87 Longoria 2011 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Pinot is lovely—it’s dry,

silky and moderate in alcohol, yet rich in fruit, with raspberry and cherry jam, tobacco and oak flavors. Give it some time in the decanter and drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $32

87 Rochioli 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is direct and candied, with

cherry and raspberry jam and and sweet oak flavors, but brightened with crisp acidity. A very good Pinot, but

pricey for the quality. Keep in mind that this is not one of Rochioli’s vineyard-designated bottlings. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $79

87 Two Sisters 2010 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Some vegetal notes

mix into flavors of raspberries and cherries, detracting from the full enjoyment of this Pinot Noir. Other than that, it’s dry, briskly acidic and full bodied. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

87 Woodenhead 2010 Wet Kiss Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). An easy, delicious Pi-

not Noir, this is dry and brisk in acidity, with rich cherry, cola, cranberry and sweet oak flavors. The silky texture makes it especially drinkable now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $52

86 Babcock 2011 Déjà Vu Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). There’s a toughness to this wine that

makes it a little hard to appreciate. The tannins are raw, and there’s a green, herbal quality to the cherry and raspberry fruit. The oak seems to stand aside, and so does the acidity. It’s all a bit ungainly now and is unlikely to improve with age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

86 Babcock 2011 Precocious Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). There’s a tug of un-

ripeness that shows up in this Pinot Noir, like a cross of mushrooms, green herbs and asparagus. Yet it has some good cherry and red currant sweetness, the alcohol is nice and low and the acidity is mouthwatering. Drink it now after a few minutes of chilling in the fridge. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $60

86 Balletto 2011 BCD Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s some

sharpness in this wine, as well as a touch of unripeness. Still, it offers plenty of raspberry and cherry fruit, and is nice and silky, with plenty of sweet oak. Not likely to develop, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

86 Ghostwriter 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz County). Plenty of tart, savory fruit in this Pi-

not, with cherries and pomegranates turning a little earthy and tomatoey. Brightened with tart acidity, it’s an easy wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 12.6% Price: $30

86 Longoria 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This wine

shows a tough unripeness that makes it hard to appre-ciate. There’s a green peppercorn edge to the raspber-ries and cherries that accentuates the dryness and acids, and makes the tannins feel metallic. Still, it does display Bien Nacido elegance. Hard to see this wine aging, so drink soon. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $45

86 Longoria 2011 Fe Ciega Vineyard Block M Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lean and

minty. Despite a certain elegance, this Pinot lacks the voluptuous richness you want in a wine of this price. The chilly vintage seems to have taken its toll. There’s

some good cherry and currant fruit, but the wine falls short. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

86 Longoria 2011 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There are some

lean, green peppercorn, mint and herb flavors that sug-gest unripeness. The chilly vintage appears to have tak-en its toll, despite some well-oaked raspberry and cher-ry lushness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $50

86 Merriam 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a good, everyday Pinot that’s

rich and sweet in berries and cherries, with plenty of oak to give it that buttered toast and vanilla delicious-ness. Enjoy it now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

86 Peters Family 2009 Sonoma Stage VIne-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This

wine is heavy and full-bodied for Pinot Noir, with soft acids and rich cherry, currant, anise and mocha fla-vors. Doesn’t have the structure for aging, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

85 August West 2011 Rosella’s Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rosella’s

is a very good vineyard, but this Pinot is unripe and un-balanced. There’s an herbal, vegetal note that gets in the way of the cherries and pomegranates. Hard to see it going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

85 Calera 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Not a lot of stuffing in this Pinot Noir. The rasp-

berry and cherry flavors hit fast and disappear quickly, with a mushroomy finish. But the wine does show a cer-tain flair and elegance. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

85 Jacella 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With strawberry jam and pink bubblegum fla-

vors, made keen by fresh acidity, this Pinot Noir is Beaujolais-like. It’s easygoing and made for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

84 Luli 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-lands). A heavy, soft wine that tastes somewhat

like a candy bar, with raspberry, caramel, brown sug-ar and roasted almond flavors. From the Pisoni family. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

83 Foley 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Some green, vegetal notes mar this otherwise

fine Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky in texture and brisk in acid-ity. Despite some good raspberry jam and sweet oak fla-vors, it’s a hard wine to like. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

82 August West 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lu-cia Highlands). There’s an unripe, vegetal

note that interferes with the enjoyment of this Pinot Noir. Although the wine is nicely dry, crisp and elegantly


buyingguidestructured, with some good raspberry and cherry fruit, that taste of asparagus is hard to get over. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

82 Gary Farrell 2010 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). Tastes a little vegetal and

simple, with cherry jam, asparagus and sweet oak fla-vors. Not a success, and a particular disappointment compared to the winery’s other 2010 single-vineyard Pinots. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

82 Hess Select 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). This is a pretty ordinary Pinot Noir

that’s dry and brisk in acidity, with thinned-down cher-ry skin, pomegranate and cola flavors. Loses a point for some bitterness in the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

82 Six Degrees 2011 Pinot Noir (California). A simple Pinot, with Beaujolais-like bubble

gum and raspberry-jam flavors. Finishes ripe and a bit sugary. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

81 Vinum 2010 Pinot Noir (California). Soft, dull and vegetal. Still, it’s drinkable for some

modest cola flavors and velvety mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

sangiovese

92 La Folia Winery 2010 Sangiovese (Sierra Foothills). A buzz is building around Calaveras

County-based La Folia, and this lovely wine shows why. Opening with a subtle oaky aroma, it evolves to offer a lightness of color and texture, enveloped by delicious highlights of cherry and cranberry fruit. Well integrated and well structured, this Sangiovese ends with a long and satisfying finish of violet-inflected plum. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Pure Cru 2009 Sangio Vetta Sangiovese (Napa Valley). Tastes considerably fruitier

and more full bodied than your typical Sangiovese, no doubt because winemaker Mitch Cosentino added Cab-ernets Sauvignon and Franc to the blend. The wine re-tains Sangiovese’s acidity and sour cherry flavors, but the Bordeaux varieties bring layers of blackberries, cas-sis and chocolate to this dry, elegant wine. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

87 Amador Cellars 2010 Clockspring Vine-yard Sangiovese (Amador County). Light

in color and only just faintly aromatic, Amador Cellars’ Sangiovese tastes of red cherry and blueberry with a tight tannin structure that suggests giving it 3–5 years more time. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

86 Amador Foothill Winery 2009 Estate Bot-tled Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley).

Largely tannic and bearing a lot of oak, Amador Foot-hill’s Sangiovese is more savory than sweet, with leather, mocha and herbs rising to the top in taste. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $18

86 Muscardini 2010 Pauli Ranch Sangio-vese (Redwood Valley). Tannic and power-

fully built, Muscardini’s Sangiovese veers into slightly sour-currant territory and offers a long, leathery finish. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $36

85 Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). This wine is

hot, soft and simple, with blackberry jam, chocolate and anise flavors. The fruit is enormously concentrated. In-elegant, but it will partner well with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

BarBera

92 Easton 2010 Cooper Ranch Barbera (Shenandoah Valley). Spicy, with a big red-

fruit expression, this is a yummy Barbera that’s full of bright cherry juice. It’s textured, layered and complex with a leathery finish. This wine is one to store for future enjoyment or to break open now with pasta now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Andis 2011 Cooper Ranch Barbera (Ama-dor County). With 20% Petite Sirah blended

in, Andis’s Barbera is juicy, balanced and perfumey. It’s a beautiful wine with cranberry, vanilla and cherry aro-mas and flavors. Pair with your favorite pasta, pizza or grilled meats. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Easton 2010 Monarch Mine Vineyard Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Easton’s small-

production Barbera is tight, showcasing its mountain-grown fruit, and quite savory and leathery in style. With a backbone of blacker fruit than Cooper Ranch, it’s earthy and ready for mushroom-laden pasta dishes or risotto. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 La Folia Winery 2010 Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Smooth, easy to enjoy and crisp in

acidity, La Folia’s Barbera tastes lighter than its 15.5% alcohol with a mocha kiss on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $28

87 Uvaggio 2010 Barbera (Lodi). A great-val-ue Barbera sourced from Lodi and entirely bar-

rel-aged, Uvaggio’s Italian red is very savory and rich with a mix of leather, cherry, chocolate and perfume. With a small amount of Primitivo in the blend, it’ll ac-company meats and pastas in red sauce as well as drink nicely on its own, the acidity standing up to a wide range of earthy dishes. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

caBernet sauvignon

95 Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).


95 Von Strasser 2010 Sori Bricco Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun-

tain). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $80

94 Capture 2010 Révélation Cabernet Sau-vignon (Pine Mountain). What a great fol-

low-up to the 2009 vintage. You can put this in the cel-lar with entire confidence that it will age for likely 10–20 years, and actually improve. At nearly three years of age, it’s rich and vibrant with black currants, blueberries and dark chocolate, and a big hit of sweet oak. But the tannins are impossible, locking the mouth down with astringency. It’s a pity that most of the 2l,064 bottles produced will probably be opened too young. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $140

94 Sequum 2009 Four Soil Melange Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re-


94 Silverado 2009 Limited Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page


94 Von Strasser 2010 Vineyard 2131 Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

Shows the Von Strasser signature all down the line, with incredibly extracted blackberry jam, cassis liqueur, dark chocolate and new French oak flavors, wrapped into hard tannins and brightened with fine acidity. Only the second release from this young vineyard, it’s an intense-ly interesting, complex wine that will reward cellaring. Best after 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Bjorn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Classic Howell Mountain Caber-

net. The fruit is intense and concentrated in black cur-rants and cocoa, the tannins are strong and hard, the acidity is perfect, the finish is entirely dry, and there’s a firm minerality. So deliciously elegant now, it’s hard to resist, but this Cab will surely reward cellaring through at least 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75

93 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Passing By Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Ex-

ceedingly rich and sweet in blackberries, currants and chocolate, this Cab is also high in alcohol, but there’s no heat. The glycerine-like sweetness is part of the enjoy-able package. 100% new French oak is not out of bal-ance, bringing sweet vanilla and toast to the package. Defines the Paso style of warmth, opulence and soft de-liciousness. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $46

93 Linked 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 15.2% Price: $120

93 Redmon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Cel-

lar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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93 Sequum 2008 Kidd Ranch Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). At almost five years of

age, this wine is mellow, smooth and incredibly good. It shows classic Cabernet flavors of blackberries and sweet cassis liqueur. It is beautifully concentrated with ripe fruit just starting to develop interesting, aged character-istics. Just beautiful for drinking now, and should con-tinue to evolve in the bottle for at least six more years. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

93 St. Supéry 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Rutherford). For full review see page

6. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

93 Tom Eddy 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Kudos to vintner Eddy for

holding this back for nearly six years. It’s still fresh, with rich blackberry, cherry, mocha and oak flavors. The tan-nins are gorgeous, and the acids are soft enough to per-mit drinking now. Good as it is, all indications are that it will evolve in bottle complexity. Hold until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

93 Tom Eddy 2005 Meteor Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At nearly sev-

en years in age, this 100% Cabernet is still offering ripe, fresh blackberry, cassis liqueur, dark chocolate and oak flavors. It feels young, with firm, hard tannins, but very fine and complex. Just at the beginning of its journey, it will easily reward further cellaring. Hold until 2015, at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $135

93 Von Strasser 2010 Agira Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This

is one of Von Strasser’s newer bottlings, with the grapes planted only in 2001. It is a designation to watch for its intensity, purity and longevity. Enormously focused in black currants, dark chocolate and moo shu plum sauce, it shows the hard tannins of a young Diamond Moun-tain Cab. The winemaker has unusually added a small percentage of Zinfandel to the blend. Should begin to blossom after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $80

93 Von Strasser 2010 Post Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

Enormously concentrated in blackberry and cherry ll-queur and currant flavors, wrapped into hard tannins, this is a classic Von Strasser Cabernet. Hard to describe the richness except to say that few Cabs are this potent. Yet the wine is thoroughly dry, and the balance is ex-ceptional. Needs plenty of time. Best after 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $80

93 Von Strasser 2010 Spaulding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun-

tain). This is one of eight new 2010 Cabernet or Bor-deaux-style blends from the winery, and they’re all very fine wines, more alike than not. The Spaulding is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot and Petit Ver-dot. It’s moderate in alcohol, bone dry and enormously tannic, with classic black currant and dark chocolate fla-

vors that finish complex and hard with minerals. Will develop for many years. Best after 2018. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

92 Daou 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.2% Price: $56

92 Daou 2010 Soul of a Lion Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). Based on Cabernet

Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend will make you take a second look at Paso Robles. It’s softly tannic and enormously complex, offering waves of black cherries, currants, licorice, mocha and sweet oak. Really beauti-ful to drink now, and should develop bottle complexities over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $100

92 Envy 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). While this is the most tannic of

Envy’s wines, it’s also made in the house style of soft, fruity approachability. Forward and lush with blackber-ry jam, currant and spice flavors, it shows an impeccable balance. Wonderful now and over the next 3–4 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

92 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Jack of Hearts Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon

(Paso Robles). This is a huge wine, that’s insane-ly rich and concentrated. It tastes like the ripest sum-mer blackberries, still warm from the sun, mashed and drizzed with crème de cassis and chocolate syrup. The estate vineyard is on Paso Robles’ west side, and quite high in elevation in the southern spur of the Santa Lucia Mountains. The wine is ungainly now, and needs time to develop. Better after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $50

92 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 WCS Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Lots of

sweet, smoky, vanilla-accented oak in this Cab, but the blackberry and cherry fruit is enormous, easily capable of handing the wood influence. It’s a flashy Cabernet, ripe and smooth and softly delicious. Seems best now and for the next few years. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $75

92 Peters Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). For full review see

page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $52

92 Round Pond 2010 Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Rutherford). A big, rich, vital Cab-

ernet with immediate attraction that is deceptive. Sure, you can enjoy it now, while it’s brimming in cherry jam and red and black currants with a finish of rich, cara-melized oak. But it will soften and mellow over the next eight years, and maybe even longer. This is Round Pond’s best estate Cabernet in years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Shafer 2010 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full

review see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.3% Price: $72

92 Tom Eddy 2009 Elodian Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Made in a fine, acces-

sible style, this 100% Cab is delicious now with black-berry jam, chocolate and cassis flavors. It has classic Napa Valley tannins that are rich and ripe. This is a fan-cy wine, that’s soft yet complex, and at this price, a good investment. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

92 Von Strasser 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This is the winery’s ba-

sic Cabernet, a blend of five vineyards on the moun-tain. It’s a smooth, elegant, classic mountain Cab, that’s dry and tannic, with delicious blackberry, currant and sweet-smoky oak flavors. It’s right up there with Von Strasser’s vineyard-designated wines that cost nearly twice as much, which makes it a great value. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $45

91 Gustafson Family 2009 Watchtower Vine-yard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry

Creek Valley). A very fine Cabernet, showing the soft tannins and herbaceousness of many Sonoma County Cabs. At the same time, there’s a sweet streak of black-berry jam and mocha. Feels fine and and balanced in the mouth, with brisk tannins and a long, complex fin-ish. One of the better Dry Creek Cabs out there, it will provide good drinking over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

90 Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Envy 2010 Price Vineyard Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Super concentrated

with blackberries and cherries, this is a fantastically ripe, jammy, fruity wine that pushes the boundaries of balance. Balance is fortunately provided in the way of soft, gentle tannins and a squeeze of acidity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

90 J. Lohr 2010 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.9% Price: $35

90 Louis M. Martini 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Alexander Valley). For full review see

page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For


90 Pure Cru 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Classic Napa Valley Cabernet,

this is dry, tannic and ripe, with delicious blackberry and cassis liqueur flavors that finish with style and elegance. Scores high in the deliciousness factor, although it’s a bit


buyingguidelacking in substance to age. Drink up over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

90 The Farm Winery 2009 Cardinal Caber-net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is one

of the most expensive Cabernet Sauvignons ever from Paso Robles, but the truth is that it expresses a new, emerging style from that region of balance and com-plexity. Made from 100% Cab, it’s dry, full bodied and balanced, although a little conspicuous in alcohol. The black currant flavors are powerful and delicious. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $90

90 Twenty Bench 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Venteux 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.2% Price: $48

90 Vina Robles 2009 Mountain Road Re-serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ro-

bles). This Cabernet shows the winery’s signature style of massively extracted, ripe black currant, plum and chocolate flavors with elaborate oak. The finish is thor-oughly dry, long and spicy. This is a flashy, showy wine, but it’s in somewhat of a slumber right now. Give it an-other few years to wake up. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

89 Buehler 2010 Papa’s Knoll Estate Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A fine Cab-

ernet, this is dry, full bodied and softly tannic, with real Napa elegance. Feels smooth in the mouth, offering concentrated blackberry, currant, dark chocolate and sweet oak flavors. Drink over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

89 Ghost Pines 2010 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County-So-

noma County). For full review see page 12. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

89 J. Lohr 2010 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). For full review see

page 12. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

89 Punch 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). A good Cabernet, this is dry and tan-

nic, with blackberry, currant, dried herb and oak flavors. It has a certain elegance of tannic structure, and finishes deliciously long and spicy. The grapes come from Napa Valley and Alexander Valley. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Stryker Sonoma 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). It’s a clash

of the titans now, with massively ripe blackberry, cur-rant and chocolate flavors battling a battalion of oak and tannins for supremecy. It’s a good wine—rich and soft in the Alexander Valley way—but unresolved. Try giv-ing it 4–5 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

88 Adelaida 2009 Viking Estate Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ro-

bles). Defines the Paso Robles style of enormously ripe fruit and softness. Incredibly rich in brown sugar, black-berry jam, chocolate and smoky oak flavors, it’s not par-ticularly subtle, but delicious now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $75

88 Cedarville Vineyard 2008 Estate Caber-net Sauvignon (El Dorado). This is a very

fairly priced Cabernet given its quality. It’s made from 100% Cab and all estate grown in the high elevations of Fair Play in El Dorado County. Oaky and smoky, it whispers of mountain fruit, with herb, cassis and black-berry highlights amid a background of savory earth. Age 3–5 years. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $29

88 Chateau Margene 2009 Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Enormously

fruity and ripe, this Cab explodes with blackberry, blue-berry, currant, and chocolate flavors that can only de-velop in a warm region. Yet there’s enough of an acid-tannin structure to give it balance. Try pairing with steak with a gorgonzola cream sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $84

88 Clos Solene 2010 L’Insolent Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Amazingly ripe

and sweet with blackberry jam, chocolate, cassis liqueur and oak. It’s almost porty in its decadence, but what this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot lacks in subtlety, it more than makes up for in sheer power. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $95

88 Kenneth Volk 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). There’s lots of soft, delicious

chocolate, blackberry jam and red currant flavors in this Cabernet. The wine is fully aged, to judge by the jam-miness, but it still retains some tough tannins. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $36

88 Kenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma County). For full review see page 13.

abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Merriam 2009 Glockner-Turner Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Rockpile). A solid

Cabernet from this hot appellation, located well inland in Sonoma County. The wine is dry, tannic and fairly high in alcohol, although it wears its heat well. The fruit is very ripe in the direction of black currants and dark chocolate. Will hold and change over the next 6–8 years, turning drier and earthier, but you can drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

88 Peju 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This rich Cabernet drinks beautifully

now for its ripe, forward blackberry, cassis liqueur and oak flavors. It’s smooth and dry, with classic Napa bal-ance. Good as it is, it should develop in the bottle over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Peju 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Dry, tannic and impressive for

its depth of fruit, showing blackberry, chocolate and currant flavors that veer into overripe raisins, which gives some bitterness to the finish. The mouthfeel is a little hot in alcohol, but creamy smooth. Hard to say where this wine is going, so drink over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $115

88 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Eakle Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For


88 Reaper 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). Despite the grim reference to the hooded

guy with the scythe, this is a lively Cabernet, that’s rich and tasty in flavor. At nearly four years of age, it’s ready to drink now, with soft tannins framing blackberry, mo-cha and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

88 Stryker Sonoma 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Alexander Valley). Masses of sweet

blackberry jam give this Cabernet an easy deliciousness. The fruit and oak are balanced with fine tannins and a gentle scour of acidity. Not one for the cellar, but it will benefit from an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35

87 B&E 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). There’s lots of rich blackberry,

chocolate and currant flavor in this smooth, 100% va-rietal Cabernet. The tannin-acid balance is fine, giving the wine rich interest. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Bridlewood 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). You’ll find some fancy el-

egance in this dry, balanced Cabernet. It’s full bodied and tannic, as you expect a Cab to be, and offers a burst of fresh blackberry and cherry fruit. Good price for the quality. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

87 Camp 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma County). Lots of sweet, fruity rich-

ness in this Cabernet. It has ripe flavors of blackberries, blueberries and cherries, wrapped into smooth tannins, with hints of smoky oak. They’ve done a good job to pro-duce a wine this tasty at a fair price. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $17

87 Daou 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Ripe, soft and oaky, with gentle,

sweet flavors of blackberry, blueberry and cherry jam, mocha and toast. Easy to drink now with a great grilled steak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Ehret 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). This Cab may be in a bit of a dip. It’s

awkward, with a sharp, edgy mouthfeel, and as the wine ages, raisin notes creep forward. Still, kudos to Ehret for holding the wine back for so long, as it does possess a certain complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

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87 Ideology Cellars 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). It’s all about ripe,

jammy blackberries, cherries and dark chocolate in this soft, tannic Cabernet. The alcohol is noticeable for the heat it gives, and the finish is rich with glycerols. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

87 Michael David 2010 Rapture Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Lush and fruit forward,

Rapture, whose motto is "Don’t be left behind!" is full bodied but soft, with leather and herb tones and a smoky finish. Blended with a smidgen of Petite Sirah and reaching 14.9% abv, it tastes every bit of that, with a smoky finish of oak. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $59

87 Signorello 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The pedigree of

this Cabernet shows in the incredible depth of flavor and softly gentle, complex tannins. With intensely con-centrated blackberry jam, cassis liqueur and oak flavors, it’s distinctly Napa-esque. It is, however, compromised by sharp acidity that’s noticeable throughout the palate experience. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $90

87 Six Sigma 2009 Else’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). This is an aus-

tere, leathery Cabernet with smooth tannins that will take time to move beyond its more earthy, herbal com-ponents and share its blackberry fruit. Pair with a steak in the meantime, preferably in a blackberry reduction sauce, which might coax out more of the wine’s flavor. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

87 Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Clone 30 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).

Tempting in raspberry, vanilla and spice, Wood’s Clone 30 Cabernet Sauvignon is fully formed, rich, and slight-ly oaky with a finish of tobacco pipe. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

86 Greystone 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Sometimes, all you need is an

easy Cabernet, and this is one of the more accessible ones out there. For the price, it shows Cabernet-style character and plenty of easy drinkability. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Justin 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dry and tannic, this fresh young

Cabernet shows good varietal flavors of blackberries and currants, touched by smoky oak. There are some green notes. It’s a sound wine, but unlikely to develop, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $26

86 Materra 2009 Cunat Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Enor-

mously ripe cherry, red currant, licorice and cocoa fla-vors star in this softly tannic wine. It tastes lush and ripe, the result of a massively fruity extract, caramel-like oak notes and glycerols. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

86 McGrail 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Livermore Valley). This Cab boasts

big cherry and vanilla-oak flavors, but it’s slightly smoky and herbal, too. Entirely comprised of Cabernet Sau-vignon grapes from Livermore, the wine might bene-fit from some more time in bottle, another 1–3 years. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

85 Cimarone 2011 Three Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of

Santa Barbara). This Cabernet has a rather bubble-gummy, candied, gassy taste. It’s exuberantly ripe in cherries, red currants and mocha, and fun to drink, but expensive. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Edna Valley Vineyard 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). With some

blackberry, cassis and oak flavors, this is a pretty good wine. It’s a little green, and the acidity is sharp. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). This is a good Cab for

drinking with everyday fare, like burgers or tacos. It’s softly tannic and sweet with blackberries, cherries and toasty oak. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8/1.5 L

85 Kirkland Signature 2010 Signature Se-ries Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For


85 L’Aventure 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Paso Robles). Even though the al-

cohol is a high 15.3% abv, this Cabernet tastes like it still has some residual sweetness. It’s as rich and ripe in blackberries, but awkward, and doesn’t seem capable of aging. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $80

85 MAD Wines 2010 Brix 26.2 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Chalk Hill). Here’s a bone dry, tannic,

full-bodied Cabernet. It’s packed with cassis flavors that define the essence of Cabernet. But it is very astringent. Will it age? The best guess is no, due to a certain thin-ness, so give it a long decanting and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

85 Wente 2010 Southern Hills Cabernet Sau-vignon (Livermore Valley). This is a smooth,

straightforward Cabernet Sauvignon, that’s well-priced, but textbook in its berry, spice and herbal flavors and aromas. A fantastic everyday wine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Chasing Lions 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). Powerfully intoxicating in aro-

ma, this North Coast Cab turns slightly thin and tannic upon tasting, with a melange of herb and coffee flavor. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

84 Dane Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This is a lush, soft, ripe

Cabernet. Its main feature is fruit, and plenty of it. It is full of blackberries, cherries, currants and plums, edged with sweet oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

84 Nine North Wine Company 2011 Rock & Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast).

This North Coast Cab opens with fragrant cranberry aromas and has a decent level of texture and structure, but devolves into slightly green territory and a confusing finish of coffee. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

81 Harlow Ridge 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). A very basic Cabernet Sauvignon, very

low in alcohol, with a harshness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

caBernet franc

92 Easton 2010 Monarch Mine Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Sierra Foothills). A fine

vintage of Bill Easton’s Cabernet Franc, from the Mon-arch Mine Vineyard, where he typically sources tremen-dous Syrah and Barbera, this wine is still developing and will do nicely with time. For now it shows perfumed herbal restraint, subtle spice and a twist of oaky coffee on the finish. A savory wine that would pair well with filet mignon à point. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

92 Kenneth Volk 2008 Cabernet Franc (Paso Robles). A lovely wine, that’s gentle, feminine

and dry—just what Cabernet Franc is supposed to be. Kudos to Kenneth Volk for holding it back this long. It’s still pretty tannic, but the cherry and currant flavors have a savory hint of green herbs that lend complexity and deliciousness. This may be the perfect steak wine. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

90 Peju 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Rutherford). This Cab Franc is very delicious

for its soft cherry pie and oak flavors. The tannins are pure Napa— thick, rich and detailed. Easy to like it now with a smoky grilled steak. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $105

88 Peju 2010 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). Rich, ripe and extracted with cherry and currant

fruit, this Cab Franc shows fine tannins, acids and a dry finish that makes it drinkable now. It has a Napa fanci-ness that lifts it into elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 DARE by Viader 2011 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). The structure is just fine, with

graceful tannins and acidity, and the alcohol is fairly modest. The flavors are lovely, too, suggesting cherries and red currants. But they turn a little hollow mid-pal-ate, and finish quick. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

86 Albertina 2009 Meredith’s Reserve Cab-ernet Franc (Mendocino). Made from sus-

tainably-grown mountain grapes, this is a fruit-forward Cab Franc with smaller percentages of Petit Verdot and


buyingguideCabernet Sauvignon blended in. It’s subtle in the vari-ety’s classicly herbal qualities, but has a juicy softness and a whiff of coffee on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $24

85 Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc (Livermore Valley). Intense in herbal

cranberry and cassis, this Livermore Cab Franc has a touch of spiciness and a leathery finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

merlot

95 Nickel & Nickel 2010 Harris Vineyard Merlot (Oakville). For full review see page 3.

abv: 14.3% Price: $53

90 Envy 2009 Estate Reserve Merlot (Calis-toga). This is a delicious Merlot that seems to

showcase the warm Calistoga climate in its soft tannins and power-packed black cherry, blueberry and licorice flavors. The edge of oak is sweet and smoky. Drink this intricately layered wine now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Nickel & Nickel 2010 Suscol Ranch Mer-lot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.3% Price: $53

89 Chelsea Goldschmidt 2011 Merlot (Alex-ander Valley). It’s no disrespect to say this is

a great family restaurant-style Merlot. Tens of millions of Americans dig into beef at the neighborhood joint, and they want a good red to drink alongside it. At this price, this is that wine. It’s soft and rich with blackber-ries, blueberries and chocolate, with a finish of sweet, toasty oak. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

89 J. Lohr 2010 Los Osos Merlot (Paso Ro-bles). For full review see page 12. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 William Hill Estate 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Chelsea Goldschmidt 2011 Merlot (Dry Creek Valley). Polished and pretty, this Mer-

lot delivers plenty of juicy cherry, red currant, mocha and toast flavors that are lovely to drink now. The wine is smooth and softly tannic—just what you want Merlot to be. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

88 Flora Springs 2010 Windfall Merlot (Rutherford). This Merlot explores the outer

limits of ripeness. It’s made in the modern cult style of soft, oaky and jammy fruit. You can taste the California sunshine in every atom of chocolate and cassis. Already throwing some sediment, it should be enjoyed soon be-fore it all fades away, like a dream. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $85

88 Marilyn 2011 Norma Jean Merlot (Cali-fornia). There’s lots to like in this affordable

Merlot, and it’s not just the fantastic label of a young, beautiful Marilyn Monroe. The wine itself is dry and firm in tannins, with blackberry and chocolate-covered raisin flavors. The alcohol is a refreshingly low 12.5% by volume. A great accomplishment. Production was 4,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

88 McConnell Estates Winery 2007 Wack-man Ranch Merlot (Lodi). This very fairly

priced Merlot from the Cosumnes River sub-section of Lodi has a juicy berry roundness that makes it inviting to drink, and softly textured all around. On the long fin-ish is a remarkably vibrant strain of caramel-mocha fla-vor, and interesting secondary notes that may have de-veloped over time on this 2007 vintage. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

88 Parcel 41 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 13.

abv: 13.9% Price: $19

88 Peju 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). This wine is a little direct, but very tasty, showing rich,

ripe cherry, red currant, cocoa and sweet oak flavors, wrapped into lovely tannins. A polished, pretty wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

88 Roche 2011 Merlot (Carneros). Somme-liers will love this wine for its elegance, and the

way it’s happy to stand back and support food, rather than star at the table. It’s dry, medium bodied and tan-nic, with cherry, red currant, cocoa and sweet oak fla-vors. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $33

87 Broadway Vineyards 2009 Estate Grown Merlot (Carneros). This shows the acidity,

dryness and body that often mark Merlot from Califor-nia. The flavors are complex, showing sour cherry and blackberry richness with quite a bit of herbaceousness. Appreciation of this wine demands some participation on the part of the drinker. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

87 Ghost Pines 2010 Winemaker’s Blend Merlot (Sonoma County-Napa County).

There’s lots of rich, jammy blackberry, cherry and oak flavor in this Merlot, with a gentle scour of firm tannins. It’s not an ager, but offers plenty of upfront pleasure for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Kimmel 2010 Merlot (Mendocino Coun-ty). Kimmel’s Merlot is satisfying in dark cherry,

vanilla and a streak of toasted coconut. Its finish is long and textured, and the wine should have a lengthy shelf life of 3–7 years more at least. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

87 Marilyn 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This shows the softness and red cherry flavors of a

nice Merlot, with rich Napa tannins and a hint of green mint. It’s a clean, dry wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

87 Materra 2009 Merlot (Oak Knoll). A very good Merlot, representing a huge increase in

quality over the 2008, and a return to the charms of the 2007. It’s ripe and tasty in fruit, currants and sweet oak, and earns extra points for the fine structure. Ready now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

87 Wente 2010 Sandstone Estate Merlot (Livermore Valley). For full review see page

13.abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Kenneth Volk 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). Soft, rich and sweet, this is an easy Merlot for

drinking now. It has ripe, forward cherry, mocha and oak flavors, with a hint of bacon that suggests pairing with pork-based entrées. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

85 Markham 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is soft and simple, but there’s some charm to the

black cherry, blueberry and oak flavors. The bite of tan-nins on this everyday Merlot suggests pairing with rich beef or lamb dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Eakle Ranch Merlot (Napa Valley). This Merlot is dry, firm

in tannins and earthy, with cherry, currant and tobacco flavors that finish in a swirl of spice. There’s a rusticity to the tannins that strongly suggests drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

85 Record Family Wines 2010 Merlot (Paso Robles). A good, rustic Merlot, this is dry and

smooth, with cherry, chocolate, anise and spice flavors. Fine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

grenache

89 Scratch 2011 Grenache (Arroyo Seco). This is a sweetly gentle, attractive wine for

drinking now with steak, lamb chops or any meat with a smoky, charred edge. It shows delicious cherry pie, moo shu plum sauce and spice flavors, with a silky texture. Made from 100% Grenache, it’s balanced by fine acid-ity. The oak influence is rich but subtle. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

88 Hobo 2011 Sceales Vineyard Grenache (Alexander Valley). You’d likely never peg

this as either Grenache or Alexander Valley. With a light, crisp mouthfeel and pure flavors of cherries and pomegrantes, it’s likeable for its dry silkiness, and ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $30

85 Burt Street Cellars 2011 Grenache (So-noma Coast). This is a tightly wound wine

that’s dry and tannic. Although it has a solid core of cherry jam, red currant and sweet oak flavors, the tex-ture is a little rough. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $32

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syrah/shiraz

91 Longoria 2010 Alisos Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This is delicious, as

Longoria’s wines tend to be. It’s dry and full bodied, and shows the firm tannins of a cool-climate Syrah. Yet it’s also jam packed with blackberry, cassis, anise and dark chocolate richness. Really nice now, especially a great steak with some mushroomy additions. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $34

91 Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a beautiful

Syrah that’s dry and full bodied, with dense, concentrat-ed blackberry, cassis, smoked meat and cracked black pepper flavors. It’s really gorgeous, but very young, with hard tannins. Give it up to six years in the cellar, before the fruit starts to fade away. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Clos Solene 2010 Hommage à nos Pairs Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles). Awesomely

rich and forward with cherry and raspberry jam, choco-late and spice flavors, this high-alcohol wine fortunately is balanced with adequate acidity, firm tannins and even a hit of minerals. But the overall impression is of soft fruitiness. It’s mainly Syrah, with small quantities of Gr-enache and Mourvèdre. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $95

89 Venteux 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Paso Robles). This is an enormously rich, extract-

ed wine, that’s vast in cherries, blackberries, currants, chocolate and oak flavors. Yet it has balancing acidity and tannins. Best now and over the next few years, es-pecially a great barbecued steak or leg of lamb. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $46

88 Adelaida 2010 Anna’s Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). Earns its very good score for

sheer power and voluptuousness of fruit. It’s a soft, de-licious wine with gentle tannins that frame ripe black-berry, chocolate, black pepper and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). Give this Syrah another year or two

in the cellar. Even though it’s a 2009, the blackberry and cherry fruit remains startlingly fresh. Yet the acid-tannin structure is balanced. Should start picking up earthy, meaty notes by 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $30

88 Gustafson Family 2009 Logging Road Block Estate Syrah (Dry Creek Valley).

Shows Dry Creek’s ability to produce dry, complex Syr-ahs of interest and sophistication. You’ll find layers of blackberries, currants, bacon, black pepper and sweet, toasty oak, wrapped into strong but pliable tannins. The deliciously fresh fruit suggests popping the cork over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $32/375 ml

88 Nickel & Nickel 2010 Darien Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Valley). This is a good

Syrah for drinking now, with rich berry, cherry, mocha, brown sugar and roasted meat flavors. The tannins are

brisk, and there’s a nice cut of acidity. This is far from the winery’s best Darien Syrah, but it’s delicious. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $53

87 Broadway Vineyards 2009 Estate Grown Syrah (Carneros). Give this Syrah a few

hours of decanting and drink it now. It’s dry, full bod-ied and dense in blackberry, blueberry, bacon, pepper and oak flavors. Shows real elegance and class, but not an ager. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $40

87 Hawks View 2010 Syrah (California). Soft and easy, with ripe, fruity cherry jam, cassis,

mocha and spice flavors. The tannins are strong, and may give the wine some ageability, but you’re better off drinking it soon. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $40

87 J. Lohr 2009 Gesture Syrah (Paso Ro-bles). Pair this Syrah with the right food, and it

will be fantastic. The wine does need some intervention via pairings to tame its exuberantly ripe red fruits, mo-cha and smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $35

87 Luli 2011 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). A lusty, full bodied wine, this is jammy with

blackberries and cocoa, sprinkled with pepper and toasty oak overtones. It’s dry, severely tannic and some-what complex, although not enough for aging. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

87 Sequum 2009 Kidd Ranch Syrah (Napa Valley). It’s all about flashy, ripe berry jam, red

currant and chocolate flavors in this softly tannic wine. Despite the impression of sweetness, the finish is dry, and a little bitter. Hard to tell if it’s going anywhere. Give it some decanting and drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $38

86 Azari 2008 Shiraz (Sonoma Coast). At the age of nearly five years, this Syrah is soft, mel-

low and sweet. It has flavors of raspberry jam, bacon, brown sugar and cinnamon spice. Won’t get any better, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

86 Kaleidos 2008 Praying Mantis Syrah (Paso Robles). Luscious blackberry and

cherry pie filling, dark chocolate and sandalwood flavors dominate this 100% Syrah. It’s pretty tasty, but it’s high in alcohol, with a hot mouthfeel, and feels too soft for balance. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $55

86 Kaleidos 2008 Starr Ranch Syrah (Paso Robles). This Syrah is candied on the palate

with brown sugar and blackberry jam flavors, with a cas-sis liqueur headiness from high alcohol. It’s not an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $45

86 Muscardini 2010 Gracie Creek Vineyards Syrah (Sonoma Valley). This is soft and

jammy, with raspberry, cherry and oak flavors. A pret-

ty wine, with a good tannin-acid balance, for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

85 Brochelle Vineyards 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). The black, inky color of this Syrah

only begins to suggest its power. The first sip explodes with flavors of melted dark chocolate and crème de cassis, sprinkled with black pepper. It’s a huge wine, not particularly subtle and almost port-like in its rich, raisiny finish. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

85 J. Lohr 2010 South Ridge Syrah (Paso Robles). This is a little jammy with fruit, while

also a little hot, but pretty good for the price. Marked by flavors of raspberry jam and red currants, it’s a nice, medium-bodied and balanced wine. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Balletto 2010 Estate Syrah (Russian Riv-er Valley). Some unripe, vegetal notes lower

the score on this otherwise pleasant Syrah. They inter-fere with your full enjoyment of black cherries and cas-sis, and also make aging impossible. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

84 Burt Street Cellars 2011 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Ripe, jammy fruit, tart acidity and oak

are pretty much what you get here. It’s pretty simple and perhaps should be better than what it is. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

84 Kaleidos 2008 Halter Ranch Syrah (Paso Robles). High alcohol sticks out on this wine,

giving it a dry heat, while raisin flavors suggest a port-like overripeness. It’s not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $40

84 Kaleidos 2008 Lock Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). Soft, fruity and alcoholic, this

Syrah tastes like a melted dessert pastry made of black-berry jam, chocolate-covered raisins, licorice and dark honey. While the tannins are beautiful, the wine feels hot and overripe. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $45

Petite sirah

94 Sirius 2010 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sir-ah (Mendocino County). Black and viscous,

this gorgeous Petite Sirah is intriguing in every way. Opening with aromas of just-muddled mint and freshly baked bread, this wine tastes as if wildflowers and bram-bly blackberry stems were placed carefully in a leather satchel. No doubt this Petite will get even more inter-esting with age. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $45

91 Aaron 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Barbecue seems like the natural partner for this

soft, tannic, fruity wine. It’s enormous in fruit flavor, with tiers of blackberry and cherry jam, brown sugar, smoked meat, pepper and cedar lasting long on the fin-


buyingguideish. Gains extra points for the beauty of its balance. Will last for many years, but drink soon for freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

90 Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Naylor Vine-yard Petite Sirah (El Dorado). A pure Pe-

tite Sirah from 36-year-old vines grown in decomposed granite soil, this Cedarville bottling is appropriately pur-ple-black in color, and rich with milk chocolate and lico-rice flavor. It’s soft with juicy tannins, and boasts a long, luxurious finish. It’ll sit quietly in the cellar for 10–15 years, if not longer, a commanding study in the evolved beauty of Petite Sirah. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $27

90 Fields Family 2010 Petite Sirah (Lodi). Smoky and teeth staining with savory black-

berry fruit, this Petite is balanced, with a long finish, and will get better with 3–7 years of bottling age. Think grilled meats when pairing. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

90 J. Lohr 2009 Tower Road Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.9% Price: $35

89 Gustafson Family 2009 East Ridge Block Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). A

real success for Petite Sirah, showing the variety’s Cali-fornia exuberance, but never losing sight of balance and elegance. It’s powerful with blackberry tart, cassis and dark chocolate flavors, wrapped into powerful tan-nins and finishing long and dry. Your window of enjoy-ment should be now, with rich barbecue or roasts, and through 2017. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

89 Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full review


89 Proulx 2010 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Shows This wine boasts Petite Sirah’s full-bod-

ied mouthfeel, with fuzzy tannins framing ripe, jammy blackberries, cherries and chocolate. The alcohol is high, but that’s Petite Sirah for you, giving it a warmth that asks to be paired with barbecue. The addition of Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvèdre brings welcome com-plexities. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

88 Trueheart 2010 Truehart Vineyard Petite Sirah (Sonoma Valley). Shows the dark col-

or, thick tannins and deep, concentrated flavors you ex-pect from Petite Sirah. It’s a big gulp of blackberry jam, espresso, dark chocolate and crushed black pepper, and the finish is thoroughly dry. Lacks the acidic vibrancy needed for aging, but a fine wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

87 Envy 2010 Calistoga Estate Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This bottling has a solid track

record from Envy, but the 2010 vintage, good as it is, is their least successful in years. While it’s luscious with blackberry and blueberry jam, mocha and oak sweet-

ness, it’s one-dimensional, and lacking ageworthiness. Drink now, with sweet, smoky barbecued meats. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

87 EOS 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso Ro-bles). Ripe, luscious blackberry, currant,

smoked meat and caramelized oak flavors mark this tan-nic, yet smooth young wine. Shows a balance that’s rare in a Paso Petite Sirah. Give it some time in a decanter and drink now with beef. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

86 Trinitas 2010 Old Vine Petite Sirah (Con-tra Costa County). This is a linebacker wine,

at 15.7% abv, bursting with roasted coffee, licorice and dry tannins all around. Soft, supple and round, and fully concentrated, the finish could use a bit more harrumph. The back label’s suggestion to pair this wine with short ribs is a good call. —V.B. abv: 15.7% Price: $35

85 Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). This is dark, soft and sweet,

with milk chocolate, blackberry jam and raisin flavors. It shows Petite Sirah’s firm tannins, but also its gentler, high alcohol side, finishing with a glyceriney sweetness. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $26

84 Harlow Ridge 2011 Petite Sirah (Lodi). Spicy with a layering of pepper this Lodi Pe-

tite Sirah, clocking in at only 12.5% abv, is Syrah-like in aroma and flavor, but fully Petite in its very dry tan-nins. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

81 Green Truck 2010 Petite Sirah (Men-docino County). Made from organic grapes,

Green Truck’s Petite has not a lot going on aromatically and exhibits very little in the way of the variety’s profile, tasting like generic red wine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

zinfandel

92 De Loach 2010 Nova Vineyard Zinfan-del (Lake County). Though De Loach’s Lake

County Zinfandel—a regular in the producer’s line-up of prominent wines—is a departure of form in its big-boned nature, it is entirely in keeping with its sister wines in terms of balance. Fragrant and spicy, with a depth of blackberry fruit, the finish is long and satisfy-ing. This is a fine food-pairing wine. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

92 Gary Farrell 2010 Bradford Mountain Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).

This 100% Zin erupts in briary, peppery wild raspber-ry, blueberry and cherry flavors. The tannins are firm, and the acids crisp and savory. What a lovely Zinfandel, made in the soft, velvety style of Merlot, but with Brad-ford Mountain power. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

91 Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Estate Zinfan-del (El Dorado). Juicy and dark with layers of

boysenberry and blackberry fruit, with high tones of tar

and brick, Cedarville’s estate-grown Zin comes to life in decomposed granite soils, giving the wine a satisfy-ing and sultry profile. Enjoy this Zin in good time (3–5 years) and pair with dark, smoky meats. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

90 Balletto 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 10. Ed-

itors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

90 Carol Shelton 2009 Wild Thing Zinfandel (Mendocino County). With a dollop of Cari-

gnane, also from old vines grown organically in Men-docino County, Carol Shelton’s Wild Thing ZIn is a fun ride, rich, robust in juicy raspberry fruit, fragrant in vanilla, balanced and approachable. In screwcap, it’s a good bottle to grab on the way to a picnic or barbecue. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Artezin 2011 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). This is a satisfyingly yummy Zinfan-

del that’s chock block with raspberry and boysenberry flavor, and a tannic structure that’s still in full force. There’s softness in the mouthfeel and an easygoing fin-ish that’s touched with cinnamon spice and chocolate. A good wine to pair with a range of food from barbecue ribs to pizza. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

89 Balletto 2008 Estate Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This wine is filled with robust

Zinny flavors, ranging from wild raspberries and red currants to tobacco, mocha and crushed black pep-per. It’s just beginning to pick up aged notes, making it sweeter and more mellow than it would have been two or three years ago. Kudos to Balletto for holding it back before release. Drink now–2016. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

89 Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Epicenter Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review


88 Carol Shelton 2009 Monga Zin, Lopez Vineyard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley).

Sourced from dry farmed, organic vines planted in 1918, Carol Shelton’s Monga is a mouthful of a wine, layered with cinnamon spice, blueberry, chocolate and oak, and still very concentrated and dry, with room to grow and mellow. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $21

88 Hobo 2011 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Hobo has a knack for taking Zinfandel’s wild,

briary personality and wrestling it to as much elegance as a Dry Creek Zin is capable of. True to form, Hobo ac-complishes that. This wine has Zin’s brambly spiciness, and never quite overcomes its rusticity, but it is likeable. The penetrating acidity makes it a fine partner with to-mato saucy barbecued beef or chicken. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $22

87 Ghost Pines 2011 Winemaker’s Blend Zinfandel (Sonoma County-San Joaquin

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County). Here’s a robust Zinfandel with ripe, briary flavors and firm tannins that make it especially apt for barbecue. It’s forward with blackberry, mulberry, mo-cha and spice notes that lead to a long, satisfying fin-ish. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Haraszthy 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Peppery and tasting of freshly picked

blackberries, Haraszthy’s old-vine Lodi Zinfandel has a gamy, austere, dusty quality, and is more restrained than in some years past. Pair with anything grilled. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 J. Lohr 2010 Gesture Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This wine gives plenty of sheer Zinny

delight. The ripe, lush raspberry and blackberry flavors have a briary edge, with notes of wild nettles that give it a wildland personality. While the alcohol is high, it’s in keeping with the wine’s overall structure. Drink now with a great barbecued steak. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

87 La Folia Winery 2010 Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). No shrinking violet at 15.9% abv,

La Folia’s Zin is exuberant in juicy red and black fruit, cinnamon spice and a taste of cola. Inviting, full and round with a softness in the mouth, the finish slips away ever so quickly. It’s otherwise a swell example of Sierra Foothills fruit. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $30

87 Rancho Zabaco 2011 Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A very nice interpreta-

tion of Dry Creek Zin, this is full bodied, rich in alcohol and briary. It shows ripe flavors of berries, currants, an-ise and spices, wrapped into firm tannins, and finishing with hints of caramel. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $24

87 Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Big Wood Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). For its

bold footprint (and the amount of wood aging it went through) this rich Zinfandel offers a depth of pleasant berry flavor and a measured texture, with a savory edge on the finish. —V.B. abv: 16.1% Price: $32

86 Adelaida 2010 Michael’s Vineyard Zin-fandel (Paso Robles). Massively rich and

ripe with blackberry jam, chocolate, anise and spice flavors, this Zin doesn’t leave much to the imagination. You can taste the California sunshine and heat in every potent sip. The alcohol is very high, yet the wine wears it well. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

86 Amador Foothill Winery 2011 Clock-spring Vineyard Zinfandel (Shenandoah

Valley). Amador Foothill’s Clockspring Zin is aromati-cally reminiscent of its Rosato, with wafts of watermel-on and pomegranate and a back splash of black pep-per. Young still, enjoy with light barbecue fare, such as grilled chicken with salsa. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $18

86 EOS 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). This is robust and easy for drinking now,

especially with barbecue. It’s front loaded with black cherry, currant, bacon and sandalwood flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

86 Proulx 2010 Swiss Colina Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is a big, rich, ripe Zin-

fandel that tastes hotter and headier than its official al-cohol reading of 14.6% abv. It’s sweet with black cherry jam and raisins, with a chocolatey finish. Not for every-one, but a good example of the ripe Paso Robles style. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

86 Woodenhead 2010 Bertoli Vineyard Le-ras Ranches Zinfandel (Russian River

Valley). High alcohol gives this wine a jalapeño-pepper heat, while extremely ripe grapes bring the blackberry and cherry flavors over the line into currants, raisins and prunes. An extreme, but classic, example of its super-ripe style. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

85 Dane Cellars 2009 Los Chamizal Vine-yard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). A big, ex-

uberant Zinfandel, this is full bodied and soft, with ripe, briary blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, grilled meat and spice flavors. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

85 Kirkland Signature 2010 Old Vine Zinfan-del (Sonoma County). For full review see

page 15. Best Buy. abv: 15.3% Price: $10

85 Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This bottling

is typical of the style of Zin this vineyard produces. It’s very high in alcohol, soft in acids, firm in tannins, and luscious with blackberry, cherry and milk chocolate fla-vor. Palls after a few sips due to its glyceriney richness. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $42

85 Zin 91 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Paso Robles). There’s lots of fresh, savory raspberry

and cherry jam fruit in this Zin. Marked by good acids and tannins, with a dry finish, it’s a fine wine to drink now —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Dane Cellars 2009 Old Vine Gehricke Road Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). High al-

cohol gives this wine a burn, especially on the finish. It’s also uneven in tannins, with some sticky, jagged edg-es. The fruit is very ripe, veering into raisins. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

84 Dane Cellars 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Break out the barbecue for

this lusty, slightly rustic Zinfandel. Brings out the vari-ety’s briary, brambly personality, with wild berry, thyme, pepper and currant flavors that finish hot with alcohol. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $34

84 Hidden Oak 2010 Zinfandel (Monterey County). The texture is smooth and velvety on

this Zinfandel, but the flavors are off. You’ll find ripe blackberry jam and currants right next to overripe rai-sins. Enormously high alcohol makes this wine taste like a fruity, simple port. —S.H. abv: 16.1% Price: $30

84 Trinitas 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (El Do-rado). Made from old vines, this Zin is still su-

per tight with mouth-drying tannins, and peppery with a base of black fruit and leather. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

82 Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Muy Bueno Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). Tasting quite

sweet and soft, like a raspberry liqueur, this high-alcohol Zinfandel is wrapped in vanilla and cinnamon tones and would be difficult to pair with anything beyond barbe-cue. —V.B. abv: 16.1% Price: $32

81 Amador Cellars 2006 Westside Vineyard Zinfandel (Amador County). Earthy and

very tight after aging 20 months in barrel and another two years in bottle prior to release, this wine’s fruit is slipping away, leaving behind only a pruney sourness. —V.B. abv: 15.6% Price: $25

81 Brochelle Vineyards 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Way too ripe, with the flavors

veering into raisins. The alcohol, which is 15.6% abv, re-ally sticks out. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $32

temPranillo

91 Six Sigma 2009 Reserve Tempranillo (Lake County). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.1% Price: $42

90 Fields Family 2010 Tempranillo (Lodi). Fields Family shows its versatility with this

wine, excelling at not only Syrah and Zinfandel but Tempranillo, too, all grown and produced in Lodi. This one has plenty of smooth, silky mouthfeel amid layers of bright red fruit and smoky vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $22

88 Longoria 2010 Tempranillo (Santa Ynez Valley). Longoria has worked with this finicky

Spanish grape variety for years, with mixed results. This 2010 is lower in alcohol than the wine has been in a long time, which gives it a delicate mouthfeel. It’s dense in cherries, currants, bacon and licorice, but finishes dry. Easy to like for its soft deliciousness. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $36

87 Kenneth Volk 2009 Bella Collina Vine-yard Tempranillo (Paso Robles). This is a

very nice wine, that’s sweetly delicious with cherry pie, mocha and smoke flavors, but a little one-dimensional, as California Tempranillos tend to be. With a light, silky texture, it’s easy to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $36


buyingguidered Blends

95 Von Strasser 2010 Reserve (Diamond Mountain). For full review see page 4.

abv: NA Price: $135

94 Capture 2010 Harmonie (Pine Mountain). Capture continues to make progress in inter-

preting their vineyard located in this new appellation, a high elevation overlooking Alexander Valley. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend is young now, with hard tannins that interfere with the fruit. The fruit is intensely concentrated with cherry compote and cassis flavors, while new oak’s vanilla and toast are pro-portionate to the wine’s volume. A worthy followup to the 2009, and a wine to cellar for 8–10 years, if not lon-ger. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $120

93 Capture 2010 Alliance (Pine Mountain). Extraordinarily rich, ripe and flashy, this is a

delicious wine to drink now, although it has the tan-nic structure to age. It’s softly approachable with black cherry, mocha and sweet oak, with exceptional puri-ty and refinement. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Will continue to evolve positively over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $90

92 St. Supéry 2009 Élu Estate Bottled Red Wine (Napa Valley). For full review see page

8. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

92 The Farm Winery 2009 LPF Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc (Paso Ro-

bles). This is a huge, complex wine, filled with cur-rant, cocoa and dried herb flavors wrapped into dusty tannins. It’s dry, elegant and even ageworthy. The rich-ness is balanced by crisp acidity, like a squirt of lime juice that makes the dark fruit dance. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

92 The Farm Winery 2009 The Big Game (Paso Robles). As delicious and succulent as

anything out there, with black currant, blueberry and chocolate flavors that are vastly deep and long on the finish. Fortunately, there’s brisk acidity and fine tannins, and despite the luscious fruit and oak, it’s dry on the fin-ish. This blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab-ernet Franc is fully drinkable now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $75

91 Daou 2010 Reserve Seventeen Forty Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Paso Robles).

This is a Bordeaux-style blend based on Cabernet Franc and Merlot, marked by luscious softness and ripe, for-ward fruit. The flavors of cherries, red currants, anise and sandalwood are delicious and savory. It’s perfect for drinking now with a great steak. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $56

90 Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Turnabout’s (Fair Play). Cedarville’s estate-grown, Priorat-

inspired blend of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, is well made and inclined to age.

It’s still soft and oaky with a hint of leathery cassis and game. Imagine a Spanish fiesta for this food-friendly wine. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

90 Clos Solene 2009 Hommage à nos Pairs Reserve Syrah-Grenache (Paso Robles).

This Syrah-Grenache blend is enormously rich, ripe and heady. It wears its 16% abv well, without ever feeling hot or awkward. Instead, fine acidity and firm tannins give the dark chocolate and blackberry jam flavors the balanced lusciousness of Port, without the sweetness. —S.H. abv: 16% Price: $95

90 Clos Solene 2009 Ma Premiere (Paso Robles). Blended mainly from Grenache, with

20% Syrah, this is one of the biggest, most extracted red wines ever to come out of Paso Robles. The alcohol is a ridiculously high 16.2% by volume, but it’s balanced the same way that high alcohol in Port is balanced. The fla-vors are enormously rich with raspberry and cherry jam, white chocolate and buttered toast. Heady and flashy in that distinctly California mode, and made for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 16.2% Price: $105

90 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Straits Mer-lot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles).

High alcohol and superripe fruit give this blend its per-sonality. It’s incredibly rich and extracted with black-berry and cherry jam, anise, mocha and toast flavors, wrapped into luxuriously soft, complex tannins. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $46

90 Marilyn 2010 Meritage (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Bogle 2010 Essential Red (California). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $11

89 J. Lohr 2009 Cuvée Pom Red Wine(Paso Robles). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.3% Price: $50

89 J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E Red Wine(Paso Robles). For full review see page 12. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

89 Picazo 2008 Proprietary Red Merlot-Cab-ernet Sauvignon (California). A blend of

two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced both from the Livermore and Napa valleys, PIcazo’s 2008 vintage is full bodied in cran-raspberry, leather and herb flavors, piqued with acidity, structure and length. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

89 Proulx 2010 Dimples (Paso Robles). This is an exuberant, happy wine, filled with sunny

summer flavors of cherries, blueberries and blackber-ries. The blend is based on Zinfandel and Grenache. It’s rich and soft in tannins and easy to drink. The alcohol

is a little high, but nothing that barbecue can’t handle. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

89 Sorelle Winery 2010 Russo Red Caber-net Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Lodi). Juicy

and floral with dusty tannins, this Lodi blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Sangiovese exhibits the best of both worlds, with a well-integrated taste of soft raspberry jam, cranberry and earth. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $NA

88 Clos Solene 2010 Harmonie (Paso Ro-bles). This soft, high alcohol blend of Gre-

nache, Mourvèdre and Syrah is marked by extremely ripe flavors of blackberry jam and milk chocolate. It’s technically dry but finishes with a touch of brown sugar. Drink now for voluptuous richness. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $85

88 Envy 2010 Bee Bee’s Blend Estate (Cal-istoga). Round, soft and approachable now

in the California style, with ripe cherry, licorice, mo-cha and brown sugar flavors that last long, with a spicy finish. Defines the delicious, drink-me-now style of a young red wine. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

88 J. Lohr 2010 Gesture (Paso Robles). Frankly delicious, offering wave after wave of

black cherry jam, red currant, licorice, mocha, vanilla and buttered cinnamon toast flavors, wrapped into soft, smooth tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

88 Pure Cru 2009 PureCoz (Napa Valley). Here’s a stylish, flashy Napa red that’s ready to

drink now, even without decanting. It’s rich and layered with blackberries, cherries and cassis, folded into sweet, soft, complex tannins. It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend with 14% Sangiovese, which seems to add acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $65

88 The Farm Winery 2009 Touchy-Feely (Paso Robles). This Rhône-style blend is

fruity and delicious. It has raspberry, cherry, licorice, mocha and spice flavors, wrapped into easy tannins, brightened with a bite of lime acidity. Ready to enjoy now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

88 Venteux 2010 Cuvée Estate Grown (Paso Robles). This darkly colored, smooth blend

of Syrah and Petite Sirah is widely appealing. It’s soft and luscious with dark chocolate, blackberry jam and oak flavors that are heady and mouth filling. Despite an official alcohol level of 13.2% abv, it’s feels a little hot. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $48

87 Derby 2008 Implico (Paso Robles). Kudos to Derby for holding this Cabernet Franc-based

blend back for so long before release. The years have mellowed it, giving it a soft, rounded quality. Drink now for the lush cherries and currants. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $32

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87 J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée PAU (Paso Robles). Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, this complex wine

offers layers of blackberries, black currants, blueberries and sweet oak. The tannins are smooth, and the acid-ity just fine. The overall impression is a little ripe and obvious in its appeals, but it does have a certain fanci-ness. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $50

87 Peju 2010 Fifty/Fifty Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Merlot (Napa Valley). This blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is assertive with black currant and chocolate flavors, but saved from being a fruit bomb by intricate tannins and a nice hit of acidity. The fleshy fruitiness is best enjoyed now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

87 Venteux 2010 Farmhouse Cuvée (Paso Robles). This blend pays homage to the

Languedoc region of Southern France, but the ripe fruit is all about California’s sunshine. This rich, jam-my wine bursts in the mouth with juicy raspberry and cherry flavors that turn a little soft on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

86 Courtney Benham 2011 Lucca Red Wine (North Coast). For full review see page 15.

Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

86 Ludwig 2010 Hammerklavier McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir-Dornfelder (San-

ta Lucia Highlands). Tastes rich and forward, with cherry pie, blueberry and sandalwood flavors. The color is dark, and the wine is a little too soft, as well as hot in alcohol. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

86 Minassian-Young 2010 Cuvée de Paso (Paso Robles). The soft fruitiness of this

blend makes it ideal for sipping now with ham, broiled chicken, or casual picnic fare. It’s not a complicated wine to ponder over, but to enjoy for its savory raspber-ry jam, vanilla and cinnamon flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

86 Tess 2011 Tess Red and White Blend (Napa Valley). This could be classified as a

red wine—it’s as dark as some Pinot Noir. But the win-ery recommends chilling it, so we’ll call it a blush. The blend is not disclosed. The flavors are rich with straw-berries, persimmons and limes. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

85 Austerity 2011 Proprietary Red Wine (California). For full review see page 14.

abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Meritage (Ruth-erford). For full review see page 14.

abv: 14.6% Price: $14

84 B&E 2009 Red Rhythm (Paso Robles). Pizza, burgers and other everyday foods that

forgive rusticity are what to drink with this ripe, highish alcohol wine. It offers typical warm climate California flavors of black cherry jam and mocha. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

84 Kaleidos 2008 Morpheus (Paso Robles). Superripe berry and currant flavors veer into

overripeness, with notes of shriveled raisins, in this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s high in alcohol, with a hot finish. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $36

84 Pope Valley Winery 2010 Tre Uve (Napa Valley). O.K. for everyday drinking if you want

a full-bodied, tannic, dry red wine. Shows ripe black-berry, tobacco and raisin flavors, with some bitterness in the finish. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $25

83 Record Family Wines 2010 Randy’s Red Grenache-Syrah (Paso Robles). A simple,

rustic wine, with jammy raspberry, red currant and co-coa flavors. There’s a metallic taste that may or may not be related to thre screwtop. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

82 Kaleidos 2008 Osiris (Paso Robles). This blend is based on Grenache. It has white sugar,

raspberry, caramel and spice flavors that finish as lus-cious as a candy bar. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $32

other red wines

92 Stryker Sonoma 2010 Estate Petite Ver-dot (Alexander Valley). Petit Verdot is nor-

mally a blending grape, but with this bottling, Stryker has produced a very interesting and very good wine. Like a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s dark, full bodied and tannic, filled with blackberry purée, dark chocolate and toast flavors. Delicious now, and should age well for many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $40

90 Andis 2011 Indian Creek Vineyard Prim-itivo (Amador County). A solid Amador

County Primitivo from a consistently good producer that is subtle with bright red and blue fruit with a layer of mint and earthy cedar. Well crafted, it tastes light and soft from start to finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 La Folia Winery 2011 Dolcetto (Sierra Foothills). La Folia continues to impress with

this young bottling of Dolcetto, its light body and tex-ture tinged with a taste of savory mint, licorice and earth balanced against layers of sweet strawberry. Enjoy throughout spring and summer with antipasto —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Minassian-Young 2010 Tannat (Paso Ro-bles). For full review see page 12l.

abv: 14.6% Price: $25

89 Uvaggio 2011 Primitivo (Lodi). A great price for this well-made Primitivo, Uvaggio

opens with juicy, bright red raspberry and dark cher-ry flavor, stays light through the mid palate and finishes with a long lingering streak of vanilla. Dry and fresh, it’ll pair perfectly with thin-crust pizza topped with basil out of the garden. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

89 Venteux 2010 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). Mourvèdre is a very difficult variety to get right,

but Venteux’s 2010 is right up there with the state’s best. It’s dry and medium bodied, with complex cherry, mo-cha, licorice and bacon flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. Might even gain some traction with 2–3 years in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

86 Minassian-Young 2010 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). This soft, gentle wine is ready to

drink now with umami-rich meats, especially charcute-rie. It has very rich flavors of raspberry jam, baking spic-es and toast. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

82 Kenneth Volk 2010 Pomar Junction Vine-yard Touriga Nacional (Paso Robles). This

variety is one of the traditional Port grapes. It should do well as a dry wine in the hotter areas of California, but no one has figured out how to make it happen. This bot-tling by Kenneth Voik does not advance the cause. The wine is heavy and dull. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $36

dessert wines

88 B&E 2006 Que Sera Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Syrah (Paso Robles). The alcohol on

this dessert wine is very high, which gives the wine a hot, glyceriney taste. But the blackberry jam and choc-olate fruit easily stands up to it. The result is vaguely Port-like, and sweet, but crisp with acidity, and made for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 20% Price: $30/375 ml

87 Gustafson Family 2010 Late Harvest Es-tate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Very

sweet, with white sugar, raspberry, chocolate and sweet vanilla bean flavors, enriched with the glycerine of high alcohol. There’s fine acidity and tannins, yet the fruity concentration falls short. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 18.7% Price: $20/375 ml

86 Clos Solene 2010 Sweet Clémentine Gre-nache (Paso Robles). Sweet with raspberry

jam, cherry liqueur and vanilla cream flavors, this is a good dessert wine. But it could be a lot better if it were more intense. The finish trails off a little. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $65/375 ml

oregon

chardonnay

92 BlackCap 2010 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Sourced from the oldest vines in the

Willamette Valley, just two barrels were made of this wine. It’s smooth, rich and elegant—a mix of pineap-ple and citrus—with light hints of coconut and toast. There’s good concentration in the finish, heightened with citrus rind phenolics. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $60

91 J. Christopher 2011 Cuvée Lunatique Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Neither


buyingguideoak aging nor malolactic fermentation was used here, hence the name. But far from madness, this wine is sleek, sensual, skillful and seductive. Crisp acidity, lem-ony minerality, an overriding freshness and excellent depth of flavor all combine to create a wine that seems to be more than the sum of its parts. Shellfish, light sea-food, poultry and even pork dishes would be fine match-es. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Estate Char-donnay (Dundee Hills). This fine-honed

Chardonnay hews to the Eyrie house style. It may seem austere at first, but the green and yellow fruit flavors are ripe, not vegetal, and the firm acidity makes it a fine food match. Give it plenty of time to breathe before serving. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

83 Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge). Almost clear in color, this

is an overtly floral Chardonnay that also displays notes of pear and ale that make it seem not entirely finished. —S.S. abv: 11.8% Price: $18

Pinot gris

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Original Vines Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Unique in style

and sourced—these are the oldest Pinot Gris vines in the country—this young, yeasty, textural wine will surely continue to improve in the bottle. Give it a lot of breathing time, and complex layers of rock and fruit unfold. Jicama, cucumber, daikon radish...You get the idea. It tastes as clean and fresh as a mountain spring. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $22

91 Château Bianca 2011 Pinot Gris (Willa-mette Valley). Lovely tree fruits and a hint

of honeycomb come through in this well-balanced Pi-not Gris. It offers both easy drinkability and surprising depth of flavor, with a lingering finish that should cost you significantly more. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

89 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Pretty aromas of citrus blos-

som and rind lead into puckery fruit flavors. There’s a finishing twist of grapefruit and orange peel, good bal-ance, and a bit more acidity than is customary even for this producer. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

86 Pyrenees 2011 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Val-ley). An aromatically reticent wine with notes

of mineral, apple, and spice. It drinks just a hair off-dry with tart green apple flavors and sharp edged acids mak-ing for a pleasant summer afternoon sipper. —S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

86 Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris (Co-lumbia Gorge). Fermented and aged in stain-

less steel, this is a lightly aromatic Gris with red apple and apple blossom. It’s full bodied with a touch of re-

sidual sugar and a zip of acidity. A light ale note makes it seem not entirely finished. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

85 Hedgeline 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A soapy scent marks the entry, and it is followed

by a simple, fruity wine, that retains a slightly soapy aspect through the palate. There’s a floral finish also; perhaps a splash of Gewürztraminer was added to the blend? —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

84 Torii Mor 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-ley). Thin and sour, this offers little enjoyment.

Lemon juice flavors lack flesh and substance. Best for shellfish or perhaps a mussel stew. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $18

other white wines

91 J. Christopher 2011 Croft Vineyard Über-Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc (Willamette

Valley). This is pure Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in acacia barrels. Intense and grassy, with a deep splash of citrus and a long, tangy finish. A Sauv Blanc for those who love the grape in its most dense and unadorned ex-pression. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

90 Château Bianca 2011 Riesling (Willa-mette Valley). Wonderfully fragrant and pret-

ty, this delicately-made Riesling mixes candied pineap-ple, honeyed lemon, and pekoe tea flavors to good ef-fect. It’s a perfect late spring porch pounder. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

90 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). Distinctive aromas of bees-

wax and bee pollen continue with similar flavors, wrapped around tart yellow apple fruit. It’s lovely, fra-grant and ageworthy, in a high-acid Euro mold, but give it plenty of time to breathe. Decanting is a good idea. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

88 J. Christopher 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Willamette Valley). This clean, fresh, brac-

ingly grassy wine makes you wish there were more Sauv Blancs from the Willamette Valley. It has the crisp el-egance of the Loire, along with a delicate suggestion of chalk. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Château Bianca 2011 Gewurztraminer (Willamette Valley). Crisp, clean and most

refreshing, this marries citrus and green apple fruit to vivacious acidity. Though not especially aromatic, it’s a well-made, low alcohol, dry white wine that will work quite well with more delicate seafood. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Pyrenees 2011 Semillon (Umpqua Val-ley). This 100% varietal wine is lightly aromat-

ic with notes of fig and fresh spun cotton. It’s medium

bodied in feel with lemony acids but wants a bit more concentration to keep it together. —S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $22

85 Torii Mor 2011 Pinot Blanc (Yamhill-Carl-ton District). Slightly soapy in the nose, this

enters softly, then turns sharp and slightly bitter. Hints of melon and butter emerge, but the mouthfeel is some-what disjointed and the flavors not yet fully integrated. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $20

84 Pyrenees 2011 Riesling (Umpqua Val-ley). This is single vineyard Riesling with notes

of apple cider, spice and lees. It offsets 2.8% Residual Sugar with tart, electric acidity but doesn’t quite have the depth of flavors to match. —S.S. abv: 11.4% Price: $18

84 RoxyAnn 2010 Viognier (Rogue Valley). Barrel fermentation and aging (20% new) puts

the wood at the fore here with notes of vanilla and oak spice along with white peach. It’s viscous and oily with the alcohol showing prominently. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $22

Pinot noir

94 Dr. Loosen & J. Christopher 2007 Appas-sionata Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

Dense and extracted, this dark, loamy Pinot Noir is con-centrated and challenging. The fruit is black, compact, and sheathed in flavors of loam. Layers are tight and a bit unyielding. There is depth and power here, but it must be extracted over time and with a bit of patience. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

94 King Estate 2009 Domaine Pinot Noir (Oregon). Ignore its generic Oregon AVA -

this is King Estate’s top wine, a rich reserve-level Pi-not Noir redolent with Asian spices, saffron, cumin and more. Nuances of dusty cocao powder lead into a thrill-ing wine with a spine of steel, focusing its ripe, fleshy fruit through a long, cellar-worthy finish. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70

94 The Eyrie Vineyards 2000 Marguerite Pi-not Noir (Dundee Hills). This exceptional

wine was made by the late David Lett to celebrate the birth of his granddaughter. It’s drinking beautifully, and has the color and scent of a mature wine, though Eyrie Pinots can often live longer than those who bet against them. Delicate and subtle, it nonetheless shows sur-passing power and length. Mature, fully-evolved dried fruit and herb flavors are highlighted with notes of cin-namon and brown sugar. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $85

93 King Estate 2010 Old School Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a

marvelous wine, both elegant and complex, with in-triguing scents of bacon, butter and chocolate woven around rich cherry fruit. The fine tannins and overall balance proceed through a lingering finish that carries

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a pleasing suggestion of well-tanned leather. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $55

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Original Vines Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).

Though generally tight and backward upon release, Ey-rie Pinots have an astonishing track record for ageabil-ity. This beautifully-defined effort should be no excep-tion. Beet root, cranberry and dusty spices are hung on a crystal frame. Tasted blind, it might pass for a very fine young Barbaresco. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

92 King Estate 2010 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Lovely aromatics

introduce this subtly powerful Pinot Noir. Floral high-lights lead into tart cherry fruit that seems to gather strength as it flows across the palate. There are hints of mineral and a splash of coffee in the lingering finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $55

92 Owen Roe 2010 Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A mix of rose petals and

cherry blossoms wafts up from the glass, introducing a delightfully silky Pinot Noir that adds layer upon layer of interest as it runs across the tongue. Polished, slightly dusty, with pretty cherry fruit at the core, this adds high-lights of cinnamon and cocoa powder through a long, smooth, elegant finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $42

91 J. Christopher 2010 Abbey Ridge Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This well-

loved vineyard brings old vine complexity into play. The brambly berry fruit is enhanced with lighter notes of earth and compost, cola and a dash of brown sugar. The acids are bright and citrusy, with a pineapple tang. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50

91 J. Christopher 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Unfil-tered Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains).

For full review see page 9.abv: 13% Price: $50

91 King Estate 2010 Freedom Hill Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Freedom Hill is one of

the most-admired vineyards in the Willamette Valley, and this elegant wine does it full justice. A beguiling mix of roses, chocolate, berry and sandalwood, it tickles the nose and tongue with its precision and deceptive depth of flavor. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Owen Roe 2010 The Kilmore Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This delight-

ful bottle opens gracefully with lush aromatics, show-ing snap and complexity. The palate mixes red fruits with hints of seed, grain, pepper and pretty herbs. It’s long and seamless, with a coffee streak across the fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $42

90 J. Christopher 2010 Olenik Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Tight-

ly-defined raspberry fruit, with sharp and vivid acidity

against a backdrop of wet rock, characterizes this young Pinot Noir. The brightness and delicate definition sug-gests that there are unseen layers of flavor lurking be-neath the youthful shell. Give this at least a half decade in the cellar. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

90 King Estate 2009 Blackjack Block Pinot Noir (Oregon). Made from single (777) clone,

organically-grown grapes, the Blackjack Block Pinot Noir is focused and complex. The mid-palate shows flesh and fat, ripe berry and cherry fruit, with a back-ing of citrusy acids. Its middle is its strength; it would benefit from blending to add more depth to both front and back. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

90 Torii Mor 2010 Olson Estate Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Dundee Hills). Best of show at To-

rii Mor in 2010, the Olson Estate bottling is full-bodied with brambly berry fruit at its core. Notes of pepper, poppy seed and tangy citrus are threaded throughout, and the wine has medium-term aging potential. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $60

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Bernau Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For


89 Iota Cellars 2010 Pelos Sandberg Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A good effort in a

challenging vintage. This has a warm core of round, pretty cherry fruit, with a dash of bitters, sassafras and caramel. It persists through the middle into a Dr. Pep-per finish, with details of herb and earth. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $38

89 J. Christopher 2010 Dundee Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Introduced by a

lovely nose of cola and strawberries, this nicely-blend-ed barrel selection from several Dundee Hills vineyards fills the mouth with soft, plush Pinot goodness. The ac-ids taste natural and balanced, the tannins are tight and proportionate, and the finish gentle and clean. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

89 J. Christopher 2010 Lumière Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Pinots from this AVA have

a bit of an herbal edge which, in good hands, can help to define and frame the cool climate fruit flavors. Here is a mix of plum and wild berry, the purple fruit set against balancing tannins that carry that hint of earth and heather. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

89 J. Christopher 2010 Sandra Adele Pi-not Noir (Dundee Hills). Flavors of cola

and black cherry mingle seamlessly, in a forward, light-ly floral wine. It has less power and muscle than many Dundee Hills Pinots, but that’s not to criticize; the fruit is excellent and the wine has both texture and balance. The acidity is striking as well, with a finishing impres-sion of grapefruit. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

89 King Estate 2010 Pfeiffer Vineyards Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). Sourced from

a cool site in the Coastal Range, this has a powerful streak of grapefruit both in the fruit and the acidity. It’s sharp but interesting, with pine needle highlights and rhubarb/cranberry fruit. It has the structure to age, and would be an interesting wine to follow over the next de-cade or so. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

88 Acrobat 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The Acrobat bottling is one of Oregon’s best sub-$20

Pinot Noirs, and a fine example of what might be called “new wave” styling. It’s sleek, nervy, built on a spine of steel rather than wood. The bright berry fruit carries a pleasing hint of chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Château Bianca 2011 Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Here’s a most Burgundian, del-

icate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at a price that can sometimes deliver clumsy, thin, and/or vegetal flavors. This has varietally-true detail, clean fruit and delightful nuances of citrus, dried herb and rose petals. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

88 J. Christopher 2010 Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). A fine entry-level Pinot Noir to

introduce J. Christopher’s expansive single vineyard of-ferings. This is balanced and true to variety, with clean Pinot cherry cola fruit flavor. There is just a delicate sense of underlying earth and leaf, adding some wel-come complexity. Drink over the next 3–5 years. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $28

88 J. Christopher 2010 Nuages Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). A blend of grapes

from several vineyards, this is named for a famous jazz tune. The blending both softens and expands the mid-palate, and seems to have boosted the aging curve. It’s ready to drink, with strawberry fruit, a dusting of cocoa, a hint of wet cement, and a finish with cola and sassa-fras. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

88 King Estate 2009 Backbone Pinot Noir (Oregon). This broad, muscular blend is

sourced from seven vineyards and aged for 18 months in French oak. It’s relatively open and fruity, with ber-ries, earth and spice all in proportion through a gentle fade. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

88 Torii Mor 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This light, pretty, blended Pinot Noir trumps the

winery’s pricier cuvées in 2010. Strawberry candy fruit flavors are enhanced with light streaks of toast and bak-ing spices, and hints of rose petals elevate the finish. A simple, delightful bottle for near term enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $24

88 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Tuala-tin Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

Crisply defined, this cuvée, from a vineyard well to the north in the Willamette Valley, has highlights of pine


buyingguideand herb. The fruit is a mix of pomegranate and orange peel, sharp and penetrating. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

87 King Estate 2011 Signature Collection Pi-not Noir (Oregon). It’s not clear what differ-

entiates this cuvée from the winery’s Acrobat bottling. Both are Oregon AVA blends and produced in large (for Oregon) quantities. The Signature is a light, delicate wine, with tangy cranberry/cherry fruit and details of stem and herb. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $27

87 Torii Mor 2010 Deux Verres Reserve Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). The Deux

Verres reserve spent 16 months in a mix of new, used and neutral oak. Compact and stubbornly unyielding, its tart red fruit is thinly layered with herbal tannins and sharp acidity. A couple more years of bottle age could help soften it up. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

87 Torii Mor 2010 Dundee Hills Select Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The 2010 Select is a

step ahead of Torii Mor’s single vineyard offerings, but holds to the common thread of hard, tart, tight wines with little flesh on their bones. Here the raspberry and strawberry fruit pokes through the herbs and tannins enough to warrant drinking sooner while waiting for the others to (possibly) soften up. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

87 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine

is medium-bodied, with slightly briny flavors of cherry, earth and herb. It’s balanced and holds interest, with a clear emphasis on the herbal aspect of Oregon Pinot Noir. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $30

86 Aberrant Cellars 2011 Confero Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This young Pinot is tight

and stubbornly hard, showing some rhubarb and pep-per scented fruit, with just a hint of raspberry. It’s un-derscored with a quick, slightly chalky, tannic finish. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $35

86 Primarius 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Pale in color with a pink/orange tinge, this is an aro-

matically appealing wine with notes of strawberry, sour cherry, cedar, and mint. It’s delicate and light with tart fruit flavors. —S.S. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 Torii Mor 2010 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This has a hard shell

keeping it closed down, despite hours of airing. Cran-berry fruit with a hint of mineral seems to quickly hit a wall and stop short. More bottle age may help to open it up a bit. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

86 Torii Mor 2010 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A drop in alcohol by more

than a full percent since the excellent 2009 Nysa was released suggests that this vintage did not achieve opti-mal ripeness. Bitter upon entry, with a medicinal note,

this remains stiff and unyielding, with tart cranberry fruit and sharp acids. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $55

86 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2011 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir (Willamette

Valley). Released young, this fresh and citrusy wine is all about the fruit. Full in the mouth, it quickly settles into a cherry vanilla mid-palate, and sails on through a clean finish. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Elton Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Like its sta-

blemates, the Elton bottling has dropped more than a point of alcohol in 2010, and the winery’s lineup over-all tilts toward the thin and herbal. Here the cranberry fruit shows little charm. There’s a spine of iron and a fin-ish amply loaded with flavors of herb and earth. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $45

86 Wy’East Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir (Co-lumbia Gorge). Fermented in one ton French

oak fermenters, this estate grown Pinot Noir from 1980s plantings has notes of cherry, char, and butterscotch. The fruit is on the lighter side of medium bodied with the wood just a bit too heavy for the wine that’s in the glass. —S.S. abv: 12.1% Price: $39

85 Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2011 Ma-rina Piper Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

This sports a smoky aroma, wrapped into tight, tart red fruits. There is an ashy undertone, and somewhat gran-ular tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Signa-ture Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

Some light Graham cracker aromas come up quickly, but in the mouth the wine all but disappears. Watery and thin, it shows little promise of further improve-ment. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $50

83 Cubanisimo Vineyards 2010 Estate Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). Thin, awkward

and excessively herbal, this sour wine seems barely ripe. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $28

83 Cubanisimo Vineyards 2010 Rumba Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). This pale, wa-

tery wine is herbal and sour. It seems barely ripe, with accents of pine needle and very tart, light fruit. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $19

other red wines

89 RoxyAnn 2009 Claret Red Blend (Rogue Valley). Made from all six Bordeaux varieties,

this estate grown blend only hits a few notes but hits them persistently and deliciously with milk chocolate, dried cherry, and herbs. It’s soft and silky and lingers on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $26

87 Obsidian 2011 Tempranillo (Oregon). Purple and plum in color, this delivers plum-

my fruit and graphite, or charcoal dust, in the tannins. It’s bone dry and straightforward, clean and balanced. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

86 RoxyAnn 2009 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). Including nearly a quarter Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec, this estate grown Cab-ernet Franc is a bit aromatically muted but brings juicy cherry and butterscotch flavors and soft, plush tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

85 Obsidian 2010 Syrah (Oregon). This Or-egon Syrah has a deep, dark purple hue, and

leads with sappy berry fruit. It quickly thins out in the mid-palate and turns a little watery, with earthy, slightly green tannins. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $28

washington

riesling

92 Figgins 2012 Estate Riesling (Walla Wal-la Valley). Sold through the wine club. Excel-

lent concentration in this ripe, full-bodied Riesling. It delivers a boat-load of fruit flavors, explosive aromatics and marvelous length. Citrus, peach and pear fruit is underscored with delicate minerality. Juicy, sappy and long. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $30

88 the Ghost in the Machine 2011 Riesling (Columbia Valley). How do you make a Ries-

ling this good and sell it for seven bucks? Juicy and fruity, it’s absolutely loaded with citrus and stone fruit flavors, but offers supporting acidity, good length, and a touch of minerality. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $7

88 Zero One Vintners 2011 Golden Delicious Riesling (Columbia Valley). In 2011, the

fifth vintage of this Riesling, the alcohol is down a bit, as is the price. It remains quintessentially fruity, done in a tangy/tart sweet and sour style. Juicy apple, kiwi, peach and pear flavors fill the mouth in a most satisfying style, perfect for front porch sipping. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.9% Price: $13

84 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Riesling (Columbia Valley). Something seems off

here, or perhaps it is just a young wine throwing off some bottling aromas. In any event, it’s thin, simple and sugary, without the complexity of the excellent 2010. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

viognier

93 Stottle 2011 Elerding Vineyard Viogni-er (Yakima Valley). A precise, detailed and

thoroughly exemplary Viognier. It’s both thick and racy, loaded with ripe, rich tree fruits, with lemon drop citrus

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and a lick of lightly honeyed butterscotch. Luscious and lingering. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $24

89 Stevens 2011 StevensDivio Viognier (Ya-kima Valley). Sourced from the Dineen vine-

yard in the heart of the Yakima valley, this cool site in a cool vintage puts the emphasis on botanical aromatics and a vivid, penetrating palate of citrus skin and flesh. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

88 McCrea Cellars 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Viognier (Red Mountain). Blend-

ed with 11% Roussanne, this high-toned effort mixes Meyer lemon and grapefruit with broader fruit flavors of pear and peach. It’s got alcohol listed at 14.6%—not unusual for Viognier, but it does bring on some heat in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

chardonnay

88 L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Chardonnay (Colum-bia Valley). Light flavors of butterscotch and

toast are wrapped into a broad, palate-coating wine with ripe yellow fruits. It’s fresh and lively, and drinking espe-cially well in its youth. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

86 Zero One Vintners 2011 Parison Char-donnay (Columbia Valley). This is sourced

from several Milbrandt vineyards, and a blend of both barrel (one third) and tank (two thirds) fermented grapes. It’s soft and creamy, with melon, green banana and other light tropical fruits. A pleasant, easy-drinking quaffer, it finishes with a lick of vanilla custard. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Chardon-nay (Columbia Valley). For full review see

page 16. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

white Blends

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Luminesce Seven Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley).

For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

92 McCrea Cellars 2010 Boushey Vineyard Sirocco Blanc (Yakima Valley). The blend

of these four Rhône white grapes—47% Grenache Blanc, 32% Marsanne, 16% Roussanne, 5% Picpoul—outshines their individual bottlings. Some sort of magic accrues. The Sirocco is supple, creamy and packed with aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, flesh and rind. It’s got a peaches-and-cream mouthfeel, and a lick of but-terscotch in the lush finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Bunchgrass 2011 Whispering Owl (Co-lumbia Valley). A welcome addition to the

Bunchgrass lineup, this white Bordeaux-style blend is one third barrel-fermented Semillon, two thirds tank-fermented Sauvignon Blanc. The ripe and textural fruit

still shows a lightly yeasty character, along with high-lights of honey graham cracker. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

87 Geoff Tate 2011 Insania White Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The

Insania White is 90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, and made at Three Rivers for heavy metal rocker Geoff Tate. The 2011 is round and fruity, with flavors of fig, apple and pear. It’s a forward, juicy wine, quite tasty, but without the edgy depths of the 2010. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

84 Kamiak 2011 Windust White (Washing-ton). This blended white—a sweetish mix of

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Riesling—has a honeyed character that suggests that at least some of the grapes may have been touched with botrytis. Regardless, look for that sugary, honeyed flavor to dominate. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $11

other white wines

91 Stevens 2011 AFinalThought Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima Valley). Sadly, this is the last

vintage for this Klipsun vineyard-sourced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a fine send-off, a buttery, caramel-soaked take on the grape, with rich fruit flavors of Meyer lem-on and light tropical. A deep and damaging freeze cut the crop by more than 80%, and the vines have been pulled. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $20

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Semillon (Columbia Valley). No one in Washington makes better

Semillon at this price. Dry and subtle, it benefits from blending with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, showing bright citrus rind, light toast, and excellent length. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 McCrea Cellars 2010 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Gre-

nache Blanc is a newcomer to the Northwest, and what little exists is rarely offered in a varietal wine. Here it’s spicy and phenolic, with sharp definition. Green apple and diverse yellow fruits are in the mix, with a hint of mineral and plenty of bracing acidity. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

87 McCrea Cellars 2010 Boushey Vineyard Marsanne (Yakima Valley). This is just the

second varietal bottling of Marsanne—single vineyard at that—from McCrea. Firm and fleshy, with clear mel-on flavors, it shows a dash of cinnamon along the way. The finish brings on graham cracker accents, though only neutral oak was used. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

87 Zero One Vintners 2011 Copper Lily Sau-vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). This is a

broadly fruity, wide open style with fresh melon, pink grapefruit and orange marmalade flavors criss-crossing the palate. It’s ready to enjoy right now, low in alcohol,

with a touch of marshmallow sweetness to cut the acid. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Canoe Ridge 2012 The Expedition Pinot Gris Pinot Gris (Horse Heaven Hills). This

wine is straight down the fairway, clean and simple with medium to full bodied yellow apple notes and a touch of residual sugar. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

rosé

85 Waterbrook 2012 Sangiovese Rosé (Co-lumbia Valley). Pale salmon colored, this is a

straightforward summer sipper with notes of cherry, wa-termelon, and wet stone. It drinks dry with a hint of ef-fervescence and tart flavors. —S.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

caBernet franc

92 Dusted Valley 2010 Cabernet Franc (Co-lumbia Valley). This is a lovely Cabernet

Franc, polished and clean. It’s wound tight, with black fruits and firm, pencil lead tannins. There’s a dash of clean earth, good length, and some softening of the mid-palate from the addition of 18% Merlot. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

90 Stevens 2010 StevensFranc Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). Tasted pre-release,

this is clearly ready for prime time. It’s both compact and generous, with a core of wild berries soaked in min-erals. The words lucid and crystalline come to mind—rarely applied to a red wine, let alone Cab Franc. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

88 Animale 2010 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). Aged in both neutral oak and glass, de-

spite a total production of 16 cases, this is the ultimate mini-micro boutique wine. Dusky cranberry and rasp-berry fruit shows a strong, underlying mineral/concrete note. Good length, and its tart youthful flavors suggest more time in bottle will improve it. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Revelry 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Block 13 Clone 2 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke

Slope). Wine doesn’t get much more specific than this single block, single clone 100% Cabernet Franc from Weinbau Vineyard. Unfortunately the wood (100% new French) gets in the way of the herb, cherry, and floral aromas and flavors. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $52

caBernet sauvignon

95 Doubleback 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This is a heavy-duty

Cabernet, big in every way, with rich black cherry and cassis fruit, and dense, dark tannins. The long, slight-ly grainy finish reinforces the impression of raw power, yet the wine retains perfect proportion and is nicely dif-


buyingguideferentiated from the other 2010s crafted by winemaker Chris Figgins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $89

95 Gorman 2009 The Bully Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Red Mountain). The 2009 Bully in-

cludes 10% Petit Verdot. It’s seamless and complete, a firm, muscular, dark, smoky/earthy Cab with substantial tannins. The deeply powerful black fruits have a vivid presence and a slightly roasted character. This is a big bruiser, but beautifully proportioned. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

94 Leonetti Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page


93 Stevens 2009 XY Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Yakima Valley). The XY Reserve

from Stevens is the best of an outstanding lineup of cel-lar-worthy, Yakima Valley red wines. Both elegant and powerful, it opens with a well-finessed bouquet of funk, fruit and flowers. The mid-palate brings compact black fruits, beautifully-structured with firm acids and fine tannins. This may be decanted and enjoyed immedi-ately, or cellared indefinitely. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

92 Den Hoed 2009 Andreas Cabernet Sau-vignon Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Wallula Vineyard, this brooding wine screams of the Horse Heaven Hills with notes of dusty earth, black currant, and bittersweet chocolate. It’s tightly coiled and largely about structure with its firm tannins supporting concentrated cherry flavors. Needs time to come into its own but has the stuffing to lay down for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

91 Dusted Valley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A bright, tart, spicy wine

with plenty of grip and detail, this threads flavors of herb, stem and earth into the substantial blackberry and cassis fruit. It’s nicely woven together, penetrating and punchy. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

91 Nodland Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This rich,

dark and earthy wine is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, done well and designed to appeal to those who favor dark bar-rel flavors along with their ripe fruit. Here, the flavors begins at licorice and runs through espresso, cacao and a finish of lightly charred tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Den Hoed 2004 Andreas Cabernet Sauvi-gnon Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heav-

en Hills). 100% Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, this first vintage from Den Hoed was held for almost a full nine years before its release. It shows its age with dried cherries and raisins accented by medicine cabi-net notes. The palate is in full bloom with rich, rounded flavors and chalky tannins leading to a cranberry filled

finish. For people interested in seeing what aged wine tastes like, they’ve done the work for you here. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

90 Nodland Cellars 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is pure

Cabernet Sauvignon, with pretty, ripe berry and plum fruit flavors in abundance. The toasty frame, medium tannins and hints of dried leaf add to the overall compo-sition of this nicely-balanced, limited-production wine. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 Bunchgrass 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from old vines

at Windrow and the less-well-known (but excellent) To-kar vineyard, this pure Cabernet Sauvignon shows a tight mix of plum, cassis, olive and earth, underscored by sharp acidity. It’s young and substantial, with some heat in a finish marked by slightly bitter phenolics. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

89 Zero One Vintners 2009 Wild Sky Caber-net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is

the last Wild Sky to be crafted by now-departed wine-maker Gordy Hill. It’s a full-on Bordeaux blend, 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the other four grapes filling in the rest. Substantial and mouth-filling, it displays a mix of black fruits, black olive, and Italian herbs. The mouthfeel is satisfying and the finish edged with dark chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

87 Amavi Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from five ex-

cellent Walla Walla vineyards, this wine spent about 15 months in barrel, one quarter new. It has dried cherry fruit, almost like an Amarone in style, though with no sweetness. Tannins are drying and finish with a slight bitterness. Tasted twice from different bottles. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

85 Canoe Ridge 2011 The Expedition Cab-ernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon

(Horse Heaven Hills). Quite light in color with notes of raspberry, medicine cabinet, and light herbs. It coats that palate with a waxy feel supported by rustic tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A spritzy

wine, with strongly herbal flavors. There isn’t much in the way of fruit, just stems and herbs and chalky tan-nins. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $10

carmenère

90 Nodland Cellars 2009 Avant Garde Car-menère (Walla Walla Valley). Along with

the Carmenère from Reininger, this stylish example be-longs in the cellar of anyone with a hunger for this un-usual variety. The green olive/herbal nature of the grape is carefully managed, and provides a nuance rather than

a dominant flavor. At the core is tart red berry fruit and a wash of dark chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

89 Reininger 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard Car-menère (Walla Walla Valley). Reininger’s

Carmenère is again at the top of the (rather small) heap of Washington examples, taming the usual green, herb-al edge just enough with well-ripened, brambly berry fruit. There’s a touch of white pepper in the finish, an-other indication that this late-ripening grape was picked at just the right moment. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

86 Clearwater Canyon 2010 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carmenère (Washington). This

single vineyard Carmenere from the Horse Heav-en Hills is 100% varietal with notes of freshly cut bell pepper and cherry. It’s tart fruit flavors are backed by (quite) dry, grainy tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

malBec

92 Dusted Valley 2010 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Dusted Valley is really rockin’ it in

2010, with outstanding varietal releases of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and this yummy Malbec. A big entry brings blackberry and cassis into the palate, with peppery highlights. Nice details of herb and to-bacco are found, as the wine seems to get more power-ful the longer it lingers in the mouth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

92 Reininger 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla Val-ley). Though it’s not mentioned on the label,

the Malbec is sourced from the Pepper Bridge vine-yard, and compares favorably with high end Argentine versions. Yummy and deep, its sweet berry flavors are matched to firm, polished tannins, and finished with a touch of pretty toast. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $53

90 Stevens 2010 Timley Malbec (Yakima Val-ley). This is a sleek Malbec, adorned with gen-

erous baking spices around a firm core of wild blueber-ry fruit. It’s brambly and attention-grabbing, with good length and a bit of dark chocolate in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Three Rivers 2010 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Once past a surprisingly minty open,

this stiff and earthy Malbec tightens up into a Bordeaux-like cocoon. It’s an austere wine, that slowly reveals dark cassis fruit, dried herbs, and a finishing whiff of coconut. Give it plenty of breathing time, or decant. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $29

merlot

93 Leonetti Cellar 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This is 100% varietal Merlot, aged 15

months in new and neutral French oak barrels and bot-ti. It’s tangy, sleek and supple, with a spectrum of fruit from cranberry on through blackberry. Tannins are pol-ished and mouth-coating, with substantial power. The

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finish brings hints of herbs and black olives. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $75

91 Reininger 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Val-ley). Spicy and still showing some youthful

sharpness, this pure Merlot is loaded with penetrating raspberry fruit, juicy and tart. The mouth-cleaning acid-ity both sharpens the palate and intensifies the flavors, and leads into a finish dotted with super dark chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $39

91 Stevens 2010 Merlot (Yakima Valley). Tim Stevens showcases Yakima Valley terroir as well

as any winemaker in the state. This is sourced from the DuBrul and Meek vineyards, and it is remarkably com-plex, though still tight and tart. The dark fruits are high-lighted with toast and baking spices, along with clove and ginger. Look for this to be a 10+ year Merlot. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

87 Gordon Estate 2009 Estate Grown Merlot (Columbia Valley). There’s plenty of toasty

oak flavor (the wine spent 27 months in barrel) along with pretty raspberry and cherry fruit. Dark notes come in with the tannins—smoke and char, along with a coco-nut kick to the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $25

86 Canoe Ridge 2011 The Expedition Merlot Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). A moderately

aromatic Merlot with notes of raspberry, ash, and herbs. Completely coats the palate with an unusually chalky, thick feel. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

86 Passion Vineyards 2009 Mango’s Vine-yard Merlot (Columbia Valley). Mango,

presumably, is the dog pictured on the label. This is a heavily-extracted, somewhat bitter Merlot, with fruit flavors of blackberry syrup, alcohol at 15%, and still a fair amount of green bitterness to the tannins. Notes of iodine and anise come into play in the finish. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $22

82 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Merlot (Columbia Valley). Not sure what’s going on

at StoneCap, but after a couple of outstanding Merlot vintages, it seems to have lost its way in 2011. Spritzy, bitter and herbal, there’s a big splash of vanilla, as if intended to cover the vegetal flavors of unripe grapes. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

syrah

94 McCrea Cellars 2008 Cuvée Orleans Syr-ah (Yakima Valley). This is McCrea’s top cu-

vée, and the 2008 is as good as it has ever been. Co-fermented with 8% Viognier, it starts out tight and com-pact, with crisp marionberry fruit and a generous wash of coffee liqueur. The acids are citrusy and fresh, and the wine has depth and an emotional range that reaches almost symphonic power. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

93 McCrea Cellars 2008 Boushey Grande Côte Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).

The Boushey cuvée—100% varietal—really delivers the goods. Cassis and blueberry, cherry and plum, high acidity and nuanced notes of toasted nuts, graphite and smoked meats are all in play. Complex and balanced, it’s a delicious bottle right now, but could certainly age at least another five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

92 Stevens 2010 BlackTongue Syrah (Yaki-ma Valley). This new vintage is sourced from a

single block from the Dineen vineyard, and aged in 50% new French oak—the most ever. Black fruits abound, along with licorice, tar and a whiff of iodine. It’s a tightly wound Syrah, with the stuffing and style to age for a de-cade or longer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

91 Dusted Valley 2010 Rachis Syrah (Co-lumbia Valley). Rachis refers to a particular

part of the grape stem, and indicates that roughly one quarter of this wine is whole cluster fermented. Very pretty cherry fruit is gently mixed with accents of Italian herbs, and the stems tighten up the tannins and add a light hint of bitterness. The finish has a tart, grapefruity kick. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $53

91 McCrea Cellars 2008 Amerique Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is an elegant Syrah,

blended with 18% Mourvèdre and topped with a splash of Grenache. Good phenolic ripeness along with sub-stantial sugars lead into flavors that have melded nice-ly. Berry, truffle, chocolate, leather, pepper and coffee are all in the mix, and the mid-palate is delicious. Only a fairly quick fade keeps the score from climbing even higher. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

89 Animale 2010 Syrah (Yakima Valley). This dark and sappy Syrah is packed with black fruits,

earth and stem flavors. It’s a big, chunky style that piles on licorice, espresso, and plenty of tannic bite. But the fruit is outstanding, and the use of all neutral French oak keeps it front and center. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $26

89 McCrea Cellars 2009 Syrah (Yakima Val-ley). This is the least expensive McCrea Syrah,

compiled from the same excellent sources as the higher end wines. It’s a solid effort, with black fruits threaded with cedar, smoke, licorice and coffee liqueur. It was aged 32 months in 2–6 year old French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

88 Bunchgrass 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla Val-ley). Though not indicated on the label, once

again the Morrison Lane vineyard—the oldest Syr-ah planting in Walla Walla—is the source of the fruit. The wine is peppery and tannic, with cherry fruit and dried herbal accents. There’s a whiff of toast in the fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

88 Passion Vineyards 2009 Syrah (Colum-bia Valley). This tiny boutique does well with

thick and heavy wines that frequently top 15% alcohol. This sweet, syrupy Syrah is loaded with blueberries, chocolate, licorice and espresso flavors. Nothing shy here, but it delivers a lot of flavor for the price. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $25

87 Bateaux Cellars 2011 Bon Vin Rouge Syr-ah (Yakima Valley). A tart, short, sharp en-

try leads into raspberry and strawberry flavors, under-scored with a light earthiness. The youthful fruit and bright acidity suggests it will show improvement with further bottle age, as the tannins smooth out. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Dusted Valley 2011 Stained Tooth Syrah (Columbia Valley). Dusted Valley puts out a

number of Syrahs, with this being the first to be released from each vintage. Young and grapey, it’s got good fruit flavors, with suggestions of plum and berry. The tart ac-ids bring a wash of citrus that lifts the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

85 Clearwater Canyon 2010 Verhey Vine-yard Syrah (Washington). Hailing from Ver-

hey Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills, the Syrah from this Idaho producer has notes of cherry cola, chocolate, and medicine cabinet. It’s full throttle with palate coat-ing chocolate notes and tart fruit flavors along with a surprising amount of tannins. —S.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

85 Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2007 Raya Jade Syrah (Yakima Valley). Sourced from

the Crawford vineyard in Washington’s Yakima Valley, this inexpensive Syrah seems a bit stripped. There is some good material here, but a whiff of volatility and a deadness in the mouth robs it of vitality. Light cherry and plum, with a dash of coffee, is what’s left. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $15

85 Revelry 2010 Block 19 Syrah Weinbau Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). The oak

(40% new French) steals the show on this vineyard-designated, single block Syrah with notes of vanilla and toast overwhelming the vintage’s subtle fruit flavors. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

85 StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Syrah (Co-lumbia Valley). For full review see page 16.

Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $10

red Blends

96 Figgins 2010 Estate Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 3. Cel-

lar Selection.abv: 14.3% Price: $85

95 Leonetti Cellar 2010 Reserve Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley). Leonetti’s 2010 Re-

serve includes 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 9% Malbec—a more com-plex blend than the 2009. It opens with a lovely floral aroma—a bouquet of clover and white flowers—then heads for the dark side, with black cherry and cassis.


buyingguideIt’s a big, tannic wine, beautifully crafted, and clearly differentiated from the winery’s regular Cabernet bot-tling. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $140

93 Gorman 2010 The Evil Twin Syrah-Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Sort of

a reserve version of the Zachary’s Ladder, this is a 60/40 Syrah/Cabernet blend. Some of the Syrah has been bar-rel fermented, and the finished wine spent 21 months in new French oak. Thick and tannic, it is still settling into itself, but offers rich components—citrus, acid, spice, stem, chocolate, earth, dust and that dense black fruit core. The tannins are fine-grained and fulsome. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $65

92 Den Hoed 2009 Marie’s View Wallula Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). A unique

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese with notes of sassafras, cocoa, and dried herbs. It’s focused and con-centrated with structured, firm tannins crafted to go the distance. Give it some time in the cellar or a long drawn out meal to see it at its best. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Stevens 2009 424 Red (Yakima Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend is 43% Cab Franc,

30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 5% Malbec, with no Petit Verdot in 2009. Young and muscular, it’s built upon a base of firm black fruits, with plenty of cas-sis. The wine spent 20 months in 60% new French oak, and brings plenty of roasted coffee bean and dark cacao goodness to the finishing tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

91 Den Hoed 2008 Marie’s View Wallula Vineyards (Horse Heaven Hills). The high

toned, aromatic reticence of the 2008 vintage is on full display in this unusual blend 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cab-ernet Franc, and 6% Sangiovese. The brooding notes of bittersweet chocolate, medicine cabinet, and cherry cola are concentrated however with structured, slightly dry tannins in a wine that calls out for steak if ever there were one. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

91 Dusted Valley 2010 Wallywood (Colum-bia Valley). Wallywood is a Rhône-style red,

with two thirds Syrah, while Grenache, Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah fill in the rest. It surprises with its elegance, despite hefty alcohol and tannic components. It’s a very well-done blend, melding together flavors of plum, ber-ry, herb, stem, earth and iron. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

91 Kiona 2008 Cyclops (Red Mountain). For full review see page 9. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Nodland Cellars 2008 Private Blend Red (Columbia Valley). All six Bordeaux grapes

make an appearance in this well-oaked spicebox of a red. It’s just plain delicious, from the first sniff on through. The firm mid-palate shows pretty blue, purple

and black fruits, a touch of black olive, black tea, and those oh-so-tasty baking spices. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

91 Geoff Tate 2010 Insania Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-Cabernet

Franc (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

90 Dusted Valley 2011 Squirrel Tooth Alice Red Heaven Vineyard Red (Red Moun-

tain). Mourvèdre is the dominant grape (60%) with Grenache making up the rest. It’s a riot of flavors, Bing cherry, green olive, some stem and herb, with the min-erality of the Mourvèdre underscoring the finish. Very well done and quite tasty. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

89 Den Hoed 2004 Marie’s View Wallula Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). A dat-

ed but not outdated blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, Mourvedre, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese that brings notes of herbs, green beans, and floral notes. It’s rich and sweet with plump fruit flavors and dry tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

90 Helix by Reininger 2010 Stone Tree SoRhô Red (Columbia Valley). This South-

ern Rhône-style blend is half Mourvèdre, 32% Gre-nache and 18% Cinsault. It’s a well-thought-out com-bination, with impressive minerality along with pretty berry and cherry fruit. Drink now or within the next five years. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $33

89 Gorman 2010 Zachary’s Ladder Caber-net-Syrah (Columbia Valley). Once again

Zach’s ladder is entirely sourced from Red Mountain fruit, including Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval. It’s half Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, with a splash of Pe-tit Verdot. Fruity and forward in this cooler vintage, it shows lush red berry flavors with a kiss of cocoa. Tangy and satisfying. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

89 Pepper Bridge 2009 Trine Red (Walla Walla Valley). Trine, named for the three

main partners at Pepper Bridge winery, is predominant-ly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a final 12% of the blend divvied up among the other three Bordeaux red grapes. It shows good balance and com-plexity, phenolic ripeness, texture and herbal detail. But despite so many good traits, it has less concentration than most wines in its price category. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

89 Three Rivers 2011 River’s Red Wine (Co-lumbia Valley). For full review see page 15.


88 Gordon Estate 2010 Tradition Red Cab-ernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Columbia Val-

ley). Half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Syrah, this is still young, stiff and not quite pulled together. The cool, attenuated vintage left the fruit on the green side, with

green olive and briary berry notes. It’s well-crafted and further bottle age could boost the score. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

88 Helix by Reininger 2009 Pomatia Red Wine (Columbia Valley). The Pomatia blend

in 2009 is 45% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Cab Franc. The emphasis on Syrah brings a defining sweetness along with compact berry flavors that carry a hint of green olive. As always, this is a palate-friendly, accessible and well-priced wine. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Gordon Estate 2009 Decadence Red (Co-lumbia Valley). This new cuvée is 60% Mal-

bec, 35% Syrah and the rest Merlot. It seems to have been given extra barrel time, and the overpowering and heavy toast scents and flavors dominate. The raspberry fruit flavors are somewhat buried as a result, and the wine seems over-matched. But more bottle age may help to open it up. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $50

87 McCrea Cellars 2006 Sirocco Red Wine (Washington). Bottled more than five years

ago, and released later than the 2007 Sirocco, this is still a tough wine to dissect. The blend is Southern Rhône all the way—36% Grenache, 41% Mourvèdre, 13% Syr-ah, 5% Counoise and 5% Cinsault. The fruit component seems well on the way to maturity, with a soft, yielding, lightly cooked character. But the overall mouthfeel re-mains unyielding and somehow unevolved. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

87 One 2009 Red Wine Destiny Ridge Vine-yards Red Blend (Horse Heaven Hills).

Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with four other Bordeaux varieties in the mix, this wine brings an aromatic medley of cherry cola, dark chocolate, and light medicinal notes. The flavors don’t entirely meld with the oak showing a bit too prominently, offset by grainy tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $40

87 Stevens 2010 YesOuiSiJa Red (Yakima Valley). The wine is equally sharp, with a spicy

blend of Bordeaux grapes that show brambly berry adorned with highlights of pine needle and a thread of smoke. It would be no surprise if this aged quite well for up to a decade, but it’s priced for near-term enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Bunchgrass 2009 Triolet (Walla Walla Val-ley). This Triolet is two thirds Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, 27% Cab Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Despite two years in French oak barrels, 30% new, it carries a strong herbal note in the nose, that carries all through the pal-ate. Stem, herb and pepper are the dominant flavors, along with tart, compact red berries. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

86 the Ghost in the Machine 2010 Red (Co-lumbia Valley). Sweet scents of toasty oak in-

troduce this Syrah-based red wine. Soft and accessible,

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it has plenty of vanilla and tobacco notes, along with easy-drinking, light plum fruit. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $13

86 the Ghost of 413 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). In much the same mold as its com-

panion, the ghost in the machine Red, this is almost all Syrah, with a bit more bite and focus. Purple plum fruit glides smoothly into a lightly toasty finish. A fine every day red with plenty of flavor. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $13

86 Zero One Vintners 2010 Sauce Red (Co-lumbia Valley). The 2010 Sauce is three quar-

ters Merlot, with Syrah and Malbec filling in the rest. It’s a simple, accessible red blend, with accents of cut tobacco over black cherry fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Kamiak 2009 Rock Lake Red (Washing-ton). The blend is 42% Cabernet Sauvignon,

29% Merlot, 24% Syrah and 5% Sangio. It’s a sturdy, all-purpose red, diffuse but with simple raspberry and cherry fruit as the focus of a somewhat grapey, slightly sweet core. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

other red wines

93 Leonetti Cellar 2010 Sangiovese (Wal-la Walla Valley). As in the past, Leonetti’s

2010 Sangiovese was co-fermented with Syrah (11%), and sourced from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Mill Creek Upland vineyards. It’s flat-out delicious from the first scents of barrels and fruits, right on through a lush palate rich in flavors of berries, rum-soaked cherries and exotic spices. A long finish, with a smoky/earthy cast, is supported with tart acids. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $65

92 Dusted Valley 2011 Cinsaut Stone Tree Vineyard Cinsault (Wahluke Slope). A

rare, arresting varietal bottling of Cinsault—forget for a moment that it’s also vineyard designated. It boasts in-toxicating notes of fresh boysenberries, cherries, herbs, and peppery spice. It’s silky and fruit filled with an in-credible sense of freshness and purity that is nothing short of dazzling. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

90 Animale 2010 Dolcetto (Columbia Val-ley). There is some alchemy at work here, for

this unusual Dolcetto—all 24 cases of it—has the com-plexity of blended wines. Tart pomegranate fruit, streaks of stem and cement, mint and spice, all rise briefly and then fall away. It’s a detailed wine, in the enigmatic style that marks this tiny winery as sui generis. Among the lineup of reds from 2010, it’s best of show at the mo-ment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $25

90 Dusted Valley 2010 Petite Sirah (Colum-bia Valley). Strong tannins are a given with va-

rietal Petite Sirah, and they are here in force, along with dark, deep notes of licorice, vanilla and cassis fruit. It’s a big wine throughout, with very ripe fruit that never

veers into jammy flab. Just plain delicious all the way through the long finish. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $42

90 Helix by Reininger 2008 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese (Columbia Valley).

Well-aged and drinking at a peak, this 100% Sangiovese is round and toasty, filled with plush cherry fruit, and just a smidgen of green olive. The barrel aging brings in accents of toasted walnuts through a full, inviting fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

90 McCrea Cellars 2009 Mourvèdre (Yakima Valley). The blend includes a hefty 22% Syrah,

but the varietal stamp of the Mourvèdre shines through. Red plum, truffle and smoke are joined by a streak of vanilla. It’s attention-getting and distinctive, dense and velvety. A wine to pair with wild game or smoked meats. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

89 Bunnell Family Cellar 2008 Northridge Vineyard Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). An

aromatic explosion with notes of white pepper, menthol, black cherry, and vanilla. It’s medium bodied with cit-rusy acidity and firm tannins with oak notes fleshing out the finish. A delightful bottle that deserves a place at the dinner table. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

88 Animale 2010 Zinfandel (Washington). A complex blend of 76% Zinfandel, 13% Petite

Sirah, 6% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah, this opens with hints of raisins and Ruby Port, a reflection of the near-16% alcohol. But the wine is neither jammy nor hot, and the flavors bring concentrated raspberry and cher-ry compote, surprising acidity, and some intense herbal and stem highlights. All in all a big, chunky, potent wine that captures the distinctive style of this unique mini-micro winery. —P.G. abv: 15.8% Price: $25

87 Animale 2010 Petite Sirah (Yakima Val-ley). Not surprisingly, this young wine has

dense, potent tannins, along with plenty of stem and herb accents. It’s balanced texturally, and has rather acidic, young fruit flavors of cranberry and raspberry. At the moment it is the most chewy and tannic of all the 2010 reds from Animale. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $26

84 Clearwater Canyon 2010 Phinny Hill Vineyard Petit Verdot (Washington). The

winery’s first varietal bottling of Petit Verdot comes from Phinny Hill Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. It’s lightly aromatic with notes of peat, freshly tilled soil, and cherry. It shows all of the variety’s brawn with dry, grainy tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

dessert wines

94 Kiona 2010 Single Berry Select Botrytised Chenin Blanc (Red Mountain). For full re-

view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 9.4% Price: $80/375 ml

94 Stottle 2011 Lucille Late Harvest Viognier (Yakima Valley). This tastes like a more con-

centrated and sweeter version of Stottle’s dry Viognier from the same vintage and vineyard. Deeply concen-trated, complex and creamy, it’s loaded with citrus and stone fruits, honey and butterscotch, yet remains lifted by defining acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $18/375 ml

chile

sauvignon Blanc

90 Casas del Bosque 2012 Pequeñas Pro-ducciones Estate Bottled Sauvignon

Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Despite hot conditions in 2012, this manages to deliver pungent aromas of net-tle, green herbs, passion fruit and pink grapefruit. It’s clear and straightforward in the mouth, with passion fruit, lychee, lime and tangerine flavors. A long finish holds off on the bitterness while maintaining exuber-ance and pop. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $36

89 Arboleda 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Acon-cagua Valley). Like any good coastal Chilean

SB, this crackles with minerality, grassy notes and tight citrus aromas. The palate has zest and acidity, while core flavors of arugula, jalapeño, nettle and green fruits shout “cool climate.” Because 2012 was very hot by Chilean standards, the finish is a bit flatter and fuller than in past vintages. Dourthe USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

89 Casas del Bosque 2012 Gran Reserva Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Casa-

blanca Valley). This relatively snappy SB reflects coastal Chile in a good, true way via minerally and cit-rusy aromas that include jalapeño notes. The palate is friendly but exact, with passion fruit, grapefruit and lime flavors. The minerally finish is sweeter and less acidic than in years past. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

89 San Pedro 2012 Castillo de Molina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui Valley).

Minerally opening aromas yield to a tight collection of green herb and citrus scents that steer clear of anything feline or grassy. This offers shear, zesty flavors of goose-berry, lime and tarragon in front of a stony feeeling fin-ish that’s crisp but not grating. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

89 Undurraga 2012 T.H. Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This Casablanca SB

opens with crisp, dry, capped aromas of ocean foam, citrus and green herbs. It’s true to form in the mouth, with nice acidity and citrusy zest. Flavors of citrus and green herbs are focused but pithy, while the finish is fresh, crisp and tastes of lime and thyme. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Caliterra 2012 Tributo Single Vineyard Block #Algarrobo Sauvignon Blanc (Ley-

da Valley). This SB is more plump and tropical than


buyingguideyou might expect for Leyda, but it’s still honest, grassy and quite good as a whole. Basic coastal aromas of grass and citrus give way to a round palate with honeyed cit-rus flavors and length. A focused, comfortable finish is perfectly good; drink right away. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Estampa 2012 Del Viento Single Vineyard Paredones Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Col-

chagua Valley). This inaugural wine from Estampa hails from Paredones along the Colchagua coast. It’s plump and dusty smelling, with lime and green-herb aromas. A chunky, round, somewhat soft palate carries flavors of fleshy melon, green herbs and mild citrus to a quiet finish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

88 Leyda 2012 Classic Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This opens with cool, coastal

aromas of passion fruit, minerality, ocean spray and tar-ragon. It’s just round enough to avoid being shearing, with cutting acidity and true varietal flavors of green herbs, lettuce and lime. The finish maintains those fla-vors while cleansing the palate. Winebow. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Espe-cial Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). An

almost neutral nose offers mild green herb and citrus aromas but little more. The palate is zesty, tangy and fresh, while a narrow set of lemon-lime, grapefruit and lime flavors ends with focused crispness. For some-thing tight and refreshing, this is it. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $16

86 Caliterra 2011 Tributo Single Vineyard Block #Algarrobo Sauvignon Blanc (Ley-

da Valley). Cool-climate aromas of passion fruit, net-tle, tarragon and minerality are present in this Chilean SB. It is mostly fresh in the mouth, with body and stan-dard Leyda flavors of citrus, nectarine, green herbs and sea salt. A round, herbal finish is showing a steady pulse that won’t last forever. Drink now. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 Peñalolen 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley). The nose on this racy SB provides a

combo of stalky citrus, minerality and tangerine. The palate feels light, zingy and fairly innocuous, while fla-vors of green herbs, lime, green apple and lemon finish mild and a bit washed out. This will function best as a well-chilled summer quaffer. Global Vineyard Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Rios de Chile 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Salinic, minerally aromas

come with citrus and passion fruit notes. This Central Valley SB feels round and medium in terms of intensity, with melony, green-leaning flavors of lime. On the fin-ish, pithy grapefruit flavors end with mild bitterness. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Rios de Chile 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). With its soft

bouquet and friendly but easygoing melon and apple flavors, this ranks as a good but chunky SB with maturity and moderate oxidation already showing. It’s good, tasty and easygoing, but it lacks the sizzle and snap Chilean SB is known for. Drink immediately. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Santa Helena 2012 Selección del Direc-torio Gran Reserva Cool Coastal Vine-

yard Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). For a spring or summer sipper, this fits the bill. The nose is neutral except for light apple, pear and lime aromas. In the mouth, it’s zesty and linear, with acidic cut. Fla-vors of white pepper powder, fresh yellow pepper and citrus lead to a crisp, clean finish. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

86 Undurraga 2012 Aliwen Reserva Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Curicó and Leyda Valleys).

For a large-production wine (47,000 cases made), this is nice and easy to drink. Tropical fruit aromas are light-ly citric. In the mouth, this is fresh and easy, with nec-tarine and tangerine flavors. Freshness and simplicity are this wine’s calling card. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

85 Casa Viva 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Citrus and trop-

ical fruit aromas are basic and the slightest bit stalky smelling. Spritzy lift gives the body some kick, while zesty flavors of sport pepper, jalapeño and citrus culmi-nate in a juicy finish. Indigo Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Château Los Boldos 2012 Cuvée Tradi-tion Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley). The

nose on this average SB is bland and neutral, but inof-fensive. A fleshy, normal feeling palate leads to slightly dilute flavors of scallion, mustard green and apple. This finishes mellow and slightly pithy, with nothing in par-ticular standing out. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Echeverria 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Passion fruit,

lime and feline aromas give the bouquet crispness and varietal snap. The palate is tangy, lean and somewhat dilute, with pithy grapefruit, lime and tarragon flavors. The finish shows modest cut but regular, weakly defined flavors. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 MontGras 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio). This is basic and mild

as a whole. The nose blends citrus, apple and fresh bell pepper aromas in front of a zesty, medium-intensity palate with standard citrus flavors including lime and orange. For a refreshing quaff this summer, this more than suffices. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 O. Fournier 2010 Alfa Centauri Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Leyda Valley). For most people

this oak-aged SB is a love-it-or-leave-it type of wine, but in this case it falls somewhere in the middle. A largely neutral bouquet comes with resiny aromas of melon. This is round, smooth and soft in the mouth, with toasty, resiny apple, melon and bitter flavors. It’s showing oxi-dation and age on the finish, meaning it’s got one foot in the grave. Tempranillo, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $34

84 Emiliana 2012 Natura Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Lime and mineral

notes are about all that arise from the bouquet. On the palate, this is a sizzler with blazing acidity and narrow flavors of lemon and green apple. Yes, it’s very fresh and cleansing; but this is also acidic and lean. Banfi Vint-ners. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

83 Lapostolle 2012 Casa Grand Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley). La-

postolle makes many excellent wines and quite a few good values; this Sauvignon Blanc from the warm Ra-pel Valley is not one of them. Like in prior years, this is bland and fleshy, with soft, wide, dull flavors of melon and sweet apple. And it’s weak on acidity. 60,000 cases made. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

83 Maniña 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen-tral Valley). Somewhere between neutral and

bland is where this wine’s bouquet resides. The palate is plump feeling but stagnant, with chunky apple and pithy citrus flavors. Bitterness comes up on the finish, which is pithy as a whole. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

83 Soleca 2012 3 Generaciones Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). This amounts to a

flabby, basic SB from a hot vintage. The nose is dull and lacks spunk. The palate is soft and fleshy, with bitter-leaning, bland flavors of melon, mild citrus and white pepper. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

gewürztraminer

87 Matetic 2012 Corralillo Gewürztraminer (San Antonio). Matetic makes a clean, tropi-

cal, racy style of Gewürz that’s a lot like Torrontés from Argentina. The palate is fresh with kick, while flavors of lemon-lime, lychee and passion fruit are true to the grape and set up a medium-length finish with exotic spice notes. This is perfect for Asian foods. Quintessen-tial Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

85 Viña Bisquertt 2012 La Joya Gran Reser-va Gewürztraminer (Colchagua Valley).

Soft citrus with exotic spice notes make for a good but flabby bouquet. Things follow suit in the mouth, which is chunky and heavy. Flavors of mild citrus and lychee are oily and lightly spiced, while the finish flattens up and turns bitter. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

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84 Aresti 2012 Estate Selection Gewürztra-miner (Central Valley). Match stick and oily

white-fruit aromas come in front of a round, somewhat fat palate with warm, oily flavors of lychee, banana and spice. This falls off toward ripe banana and blandness on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

chardonnay

89 Errazuriz 2011 Max Reserva Chardon-nay (Casablanca Valley). Mellow aromas of

baked apple, mild oak and toast are balanced and har-monious. This feels round and a little creamy but not thick or gooey. Soft flavors of honeyed peach, pineapple and banana are tropical as a whole, while the finish is solid, ripe and tropical tasting. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Matetic 2011 EQ Chardonnay (San Anto-nio). The nose sends up signals of a balanced,

easygoing wine with oak blended nicely into pear and apple fruit. The palate is lively and mildly oaky, with baked apple, orange and woodspice flavors. A snappy, oaky finish with intense acidity closes the show. Quint-essential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Caliterra 2011 Tributo Single Vineyard Block #Maitenal Chardonnay (Casa-

blanca Valley). Toasty oak aromas are mild and fold in some baked apple notes. The palate feels layered and rich, while toasty flavors of peach, nectarine and melon end in a medium-length finish that’s well controlled and juicy. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Casas del Bosque 2011 Gran Reserva Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Casablanca

Valley). This Chardonnay is fairly oaky, as evidenced by savory BBQ and resiny aromas that run heavily over the top of apple and citrus scents. This is plump, resiny feeling and woody on the palate, with a mix of banana, tropical fruit and citrus flavors. The finish is oaky and tastes sweet. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Casas del Bosque 2011 Reserva Char-donnay (Casablanca Valley). While this

Chardonnay is tropical and sweet as a whole, it’s also an honest reflection of Casablanca. Aromas of honeyed ap-ple, toast and peach are friendly, while the palate feels round and resiny, with solid core acidity. Apple, sweet melon, honey and toast flavors precede a finish where oak rises up and vies with residual tropical notes. Ameri-can Importing. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

87 Montes 2011 Alpha Chardonnay (Casa-blanca Valley). Baked apple, pulpy citrus and

oak aromas create a soft nose. In the mouth, this feels wide and resiny, and the flavors match that lead: oak, resin, vanilla, tropical fruit and citrus are all registering. On the finish, this is oaky and resiny. T.G.I.C. Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

85 Carmen 2011 Gran Reserva El Refugio Vineyard Chardonnay (Casablanca &

Leyda Valleys). Early on this smells strained, like a haystack with brine. Give it time and it comes around, although it remains chunky in feel, with citrus and nec-tarine flavors. On the finish it’s thick and heavy (14.4% ABV means weight and viscosity). Trinchero Family Es-tates. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $15

84 Viña Requingua 2011 Toro de Piedra Grand Reserve Chardonnay (Maule Val-

ley). This is one of the more resiny wines you’re likely to come upon. And while it maintains spunk and a fresh feel, the palate is resiny and woody, and overall things taste like wood-infused banana, sawdust and spice. This is a barrel bomb, no two ways about it. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

82 Viña Tabalí 2010 Talinay Coastal Lime-stone Vineyard Chardonnay (Limarí Val-

ley). While this smells plump, mealy and soft, it’s de-cidedly acidic and citrusy in the mouth. In terms of feel, it’s limited and monotone, while the flavors run toward vanilla, orange and oak. The finish is fleeting finish and light on flavor. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

other white wines

87 Concha y Toro 2011 Terrunyo Costa Los Boldos Vineyard Block 6 Riesling (Casa-

blanca Valley). This first-time Riesling from CyT de-livers petrol/diesel aromas along with mild apple and peach scents on what amounts to a true, varietal nose. The palate has a punch-like, juicy feel that’s fresh but light, while tropical flavors of lychee and mango end juicy but with weight. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

86 Matetic 2012 Corralillo Riesling (Casa-blanca Valley). Wayward aromas of tropical

fruits and diesel fumes are warm and mild. The palate is plump and slightly citrusy, while flavors of white grape-fruit, orange and pineapple end with pithy bitterness. On the finish, this is citrusy in flavor and pulpy in tex-ture. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Viña Bisquertt 2012 La Joya Gran Reser-va Viognier (Colchagua Valley). The nose

on this racy Viognier is mostly tropical. In the mouth, this is lifted, tangy and acidic, with citrusy flavors of lime, lemon and green appple. A tangy, fresh, zesty fin-ish with a lemon-based flavor is refreshing but angular. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Errazuriz 2011 The Blend Collection (Aconcagua Valley). There’s no denying this

wine’s stalky, oily aromas. In the mouth, this blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier is chunky, with fla-vors that follow suit: the palate is bitter, slightly oxidized and melony. For $40, not much is clicking here. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

82 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Maucho Reserva Viognier (Maule Valley). This

creamy, candied Viognier comes across hot and high in alcohol, with banana and vanilla aromas that are not very encouraging. Flavors of Animal Cracker cookies, vanilla and canned fruits end in a sweet, soft, cloying finish. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

syrah/shiraz

92 Lagar de Bezana 2010 Edicion Limitada Single Vineyard Syrah (Cachapoal Val-

ley). With complex aromas of cedar, tobacco, tree bark, herbs and blackberry, this lush, tightly packed Syrah gets off to a fine start. A mouthfilling palate with baked but controlled flavors of boysenberry, leather and choc-olate finishes long, minty and with classy herb flavors. For a modern, oaky Syrah, this is excellent. Drink now through 2017. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Ventisquero 2008 Pangea Apalta Vine-yard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). For full re-


91 Errazuriz 2010 La Cumbre Syrah (Acon-cagua Valley). This is a rich, ripe Syrah with

chunky aromas of baked black fruits, forest floor, choco-late and berry syrup. It’s soft, lush and syrupy feeling, with jammy, ultraripe flavors of baked blackberry, to-bacco, coffee and herbs. This finishes chewy, dense and without much spine or kick. Drink now through 2015. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

90 Concha y Toro 2010 Marques de Casa Concha Syrah (Buin). Pure, alluring aro-

mas of minerally black fruits, lavender, cola, fir tree and pepper combine to form a highly inviting bouquet. This doesn’t fall off in the mouth, where it’s more fresh and bouncy than heavy. Flavors of dark berry fruits, herbs and chocolate end in a rich, grabby, textured finish. Drink this lusty but elegant Syrah now through 2016. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

89 Rios de Chile 2010 Gran Reserva Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). A jammy, grapey bou-

quet offers blueberry and spice aromas but not much complexity or nuance. The palate is lively, with acidic cut and leathery, herbal flavors of raspberry, plum and pepper. This is bouncy feeling and tastes earthy and chocolaty on the finish. Drink now through 2015. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

89 Viña Bisquertt 2011 La Joya Gran Reser-va Syrah (Colchagua Valley). This deep,

dense Syrah offers layers of dark berry aromas mixed with spice and herbal notes. The palate feels stylish and smooth, while driving flavors of blackberry and choco-late finish with smooth tannins. This is clean and New World in character. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15


buyingguide88 Koyle 2011 Reserva Syrah (Colchagua

Valley). This concentrated, ripe, dark wine car-ries aromas of lead pencil, shoe polish, creamy oak, co-conut and blackberry. It’s loud and oaky on the palate, with modern flavors of black fruits, chocolate and co-conut. This finishes mildly bitter, toasty and almost fat, but with healthy acidity. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Emiliana 2011 Natura Syrah (Rapel Val-ley). With a ruby color and loud aromas of ber-

ry fruits, vanilla and graphite, this value Syrah pumps up the volume with plenty of berry fruit, mild buttery oak, herbal hints and wiry acidity. This is more generic than “varietal,” and it’s juicy, bright and clean. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Re-serve Syrah (Curicó Valley). This value-

priced Syrah is meaty, leathery and spicy smelling, which can be typical for the variety. The palate is a bit shrill and acidic, while narrow flavors of red berries, herbs and minty green settle on a lightly herbal finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

84 Loma Larga 2008 Syrah (Casablanca Val-ley). Hailing from chilly Casablanca, this Syrah

shows a soupy, vegetal smelling nose that’s mildly green and earthy. The palate feels pretty good and chunky, but the flavor profile runs green, with an herbal finish. Win-ery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

83 Santa Alicia 2011 Reserva Shiraz (Maipo Valley). There’s no shortage of funky wildness

to the nose: leather, juniper and rubbery berry scents are all accounted for. The palate carries minimal tannic grip, while flavors of herbal berry fruits rekindle the ju-niper from the nose, leaving an herbal aftertaste. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

Pinot noir

87 Undurraga 2011 Reserva Especial Si-baris Pinot Noir (Maipo Valley). Pushy,

forceful aromas of vanilla and oak blend with berry and spice notes. The palate is quietly full bodied, with plum and spice flavors in front of a toasty, dry, nicely oaked finish. For a lively, nervy wine, this is honest and good. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

85 William Cole 2011 Columbine Special Reserve Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley).

After an herbal, lightly leafy aromatic opening, this rings around in the mouth before settling on racy red plum, raspberry and controlled herbal flavors. It’s solid and varietally correct, but it finishes short and a bit acidic. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17

84 Aresti 2011 Estate Selection Pinot Noir (Central Valley). This basic Pinot offers up tea

and oaky clove and cinnamon aromas. It’s fairly fresh

and juicy in the mouth despite a mild resiny oak feel, and flavors of meaty berry fruits are fully spiced like a licorice gum drop. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Alto Roble 2011 Beach Kite Pinot Noir (Curicó Valley). For a big, simple style of Pi-

not Noir, this gets the job done. It’s dark and mulled on the nose, with boistrous plum and cherry flavors that darken up and turn peppery on the finish. This empha-sizes freshness and size more than finesse. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

81 William Cole 2011 Albamar Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). This is edgy and lean,

with mulch and latex on a stripped back nose. In the mouth, it clangs around due to racy acidity. Flavors of leafy red fruits and citrus are not fully convincing. Glob-al Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

carmenère

93 François Lurton 2010 Hacienda Arauca-no Alka Estate Bottled Carmenère (Col-

chagua Valley). Deep, lush aromas of cassis, black-berry and baked plum come with herbal hints and bal-samic notes. This feels full, slightly rich, creamy and fo-cused, with toasty flavors of dark fruits, chocolate and herbs. It’s a delicious wine with clarity and a satisfying finish. Drink now through 2015. Winesellers Ltd. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

93 Santa Carolina 2008 Herencia Carme-nère (Peumo). As Chilean Carmenère goes,

this is one of the best and most true to the grape. Dusty, dry, earthy aromas of spiced berry, herbs and cocoa lead to a lofty palate with both creamy oak and driving acids. Oak-related flavors of vanilla and coconut sit on top of spicy, baked berry flavors, while the finish is full, woody, creamy and dense. Drink this excellent Carmenère now through 2017. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $90

91 Concha y Toro 2008 Carmín de Peumo Carmenère (Peumo). Price aside, this is a

fine, ready to drink, full-bodied Carmenère with earth, cola, tree bark, cherry and cassis aromas. It’s full and a touch soft in the mouth, with easy tannins and bold flavors of blackberry, herbs, bitter chocolate and leath-er. On the finish, it’s peppery tasting and mildly herbal. Drink now through 2016. Eccelsior Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $200

91 Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva de Familia Carmenère (Rapel Valley). This is dark and

pointed on the nose, with graphite, mint, peppercorn and creamy oak aromas supporting herbal berry fruit scents. The palate feels lush and almost airy, with soft tannins and baked black-fruit flavors accented by choc-olate and coffee. An earthy finish with licorice and mild

tannins says drink this Carmenère now through 2015. Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $20

90 Errazuriz 2010 Kai Carmenère (Acon-cagua Valley). This absurdly priced Carme-

nère is always one of Chile’s best, and this vintage is just fine, with cherry, cassis, graphite, herb and eucalyptus-like green aromas. The palate is chunky and round in feel, with solid acidity and plump, herbal flavors of berry fruits, olive and spice. But what justifies a $235 price tag? You can be the judge. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $235

90 Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard El Rulo Estate Carmenère (Col-

chagua Valley). For full review see page 11. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Anakena 2010 Alwa Limited Edition Car-menère (Cachapoal Valley). Wiry cherry

and herbal aromas create a raw bouquet with controlled ruggedness. Things follow that track in the mouth, which feels snappy and acidic on the midpalate, while flavors of herbal plum and spicy currant take over. A solid finish with a good feel and fresh, herbal berry fruit flavors is good. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Errazuriz 2010 Max Reserva Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). Stewed red berries and

an herbal streak define the nose, which also offers carob and spice notes. The palate feels mostly deep and pad-ded, with layering and flavors of herbs, pepper, spice and plum. A meaty, herbal finish with a tomato paste quality is the final act. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Koyle 2010 Royale Carmenère (Colcha-gua Valley). This is a broad, full-bodied Car-

menère with leathery, foresty aromas as well as berry and cassis. The palate feels wide, grabby and hefty, while the flavors run toward meaty and toasty, with dark berry, herb and mildly bitter notes. On the finish, it overflows with heat, chocolate and peppery flavors. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

88 Concha y Toro 2010 Gran Reserva Se-rie Riberas Ribera del Cachapoal Car-

menère (Peumo). This bold wine opens with a blast of black fruit and cassis, and then dry spice and herb-al aromas settle in. This is racy in the mouth, with a good body and flavors of red plum, raspberry, spice and herbs. It’s acid-driven and fairly elegant on the way out. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

merlot

87 Lapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selection Merlot (Rapel Valley). With dark-berry aro-

mas and pointed toughness, this is a solid wine with creamy oak, some stickiness and a lactic element. Fla-vors of herbal dark fruits and minty oak lead to a dry, minty, hot and spicy finish with more than enough resid-

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ual oak flavor. Terlato Wines International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $12

86 Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Merlot (Central Valley). This is concentrated and

dark in color, with chocolaty berry and plum aromas. A full-bodied, plump and oaky palate houses milk choco-late and herbal blackberry flavors, while a healthy, driv-ing finish with residual oak winds things down. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 San Nicolas 2011 Merlot (Curicó Valley). Scratchy rhubarb aromas run tart and weedy.

The palate on this basic Merlot is high in acid and thus shrill, with sharp raspberry and cherry flavors. A short, choppy finish with sour plum flavors closes out this mar-ginal, crisp wine. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

malBec

88 Montes 2010 Alpha Malbec (Colchagua Valley). Montes’ first Alpha Malbec is serious

and healthy, with rubbery, leathery berry aromas and crusty, dark oak scents. This is full and fairly oaky on the tongue, with herbal black-fruit flavors, raw wood notes, espresso-like bitterness and heat on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Viña Pérez Cruz 2010 Cot Limited Edition Malbec (Maipo Valley). This Maipo Malbec

is a bit pinched and gritty up front, with leather, rubber and raspberry aromas in the backdrop. A full, chunky palate offers mildly herbal, baked berry flavors in front of a spicy, minty, mildly hot finish. This is nice for Chil-ean Malbec but a little aggressive. South American Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Concha y Toro 2010 Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Ribera del Tinguiririca

Marchigue Malbec (Chile). Herb and olive aromas give this Malbec a slightly green nose. There’s a lot of body and acid once it hits the palate along with flavors of herbal berry, mint and pepper. This is sturdy, fully oaked and minty on the finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Maucho Reserva Malbec (Maule Valley). Initial me-

dicinal, plastic aromas give way to rubber, carob and herbal berry scents. The palate is round and easygoing, with blueberry, blackberry and herbal flavors. An oak-based finish with chocolate, normal acidity and good but modest dark-fruit flavors closes this out. Vinecrest Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Botalcura 2010 La Porfia Gran Reserve Malbec (Maule Valley). This Maule Malbec

opens with pinched, herbal aromas of cherry and berry mixed with leather. The palate is fresh and zesty, almost to the point of being lean and scouring, with red plum,

raspberry, cherry and a touch of vanilla. A quick finish that’s tangy is the final act. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

caBernets & Blends

93 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2010 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua

Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $65

92 Caliterra 2009 Cenit (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Errazuriz 2010 Viñedo Chadwick (Maipo Valley). The price on this wine is laughable, but

the quality is excellent. Earthy aromas of lead pencil, baked plum, cassis and black cherry include chocolate and minerality. The palate is rich, jammy and a touch stewy, with herbal blackberry, cassis, chocoalte and cof-fee flavors. Even more chocolate and licorice rise up on the long finish. Put this away until 2015, then drink through 2024. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $400

92 La Playa 2009 Axel Primero (Colchagua Valley). This starts out appealing. Licorice,

spice, coconut and vanilla aromas are entirely inviting. On the palate it delivers a tight deck of lemony oak, raspberry fruit, spice and vanilla. This finishes fiery and with a sinewy structure. Drink this Cabernet-led, five-grape blend through 2019; 500 cases made. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Errazuriz 2010 Don Maximiano Found-er’s Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Acon-

cagua Valley). Floral aromas of cassis and plum are open, spicy and complex, with a balsamic accent. This feels solid as a rock, with firm tannins and a lively flavor profile that includes blackberry, baked notes, spice and cocoa powder. On the finish, oak is reflected through flavors of vanilla and mocha. Drink from 2014–2022. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

91 Miguel Torres 2009 Manso de Velasco Vi-ñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó

Valley). Given that 2009 was a hot vintage in Chile, it’s not shocking that this old vine Cabernet is rich, ripe and syrupy. The nose is attractive and offers aromas of blackberry, tree bark, herbs and minerality. The palate deals gritty tannins and rich, raisiny flavors of cassis, blackberry, coffee and toast. This finishes a touch chop-py and rough, with weight and power. Drink through 2016. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

91 Oveja Negra 2009 The Lost Barrel (Maule Valley). This weighty, structured, dark-colored

blend of Syrah, Carignan, Carmenère and Petit Verdot pours on the berry, vanilla and baking spice aromas. The mouthfeel is full, with a lot to savor, especially toasty, typically Chilean flavors of olive, herbs and berry fruits.

A spicy, dry, harmonious finish closes the show. Drink now through 2015. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $27

91 Ventisquero 2008 Vertice Apalta Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page

9. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

90 Altaïr 2009 Sideral (Rapel Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.7% Price: $25

90 Carmen 2009 Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This big, muscu-

lar wine opens with a tidal wave of oaky coconut and va-nilla aromas matched against tar, eucalyptus and brushy blackberry. The palate smacks down with tannic bite, while the midlevel is a bit amorphous. Plum, berry, car-ob and leafy flavors set up an oaky, herbal, saucy tast-ing finish. Drink now through 2018. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

90 Domus Aurea 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Even if this Cab shows euca-

lyptus on the nose along with asphalt and olive aromas, the bouquet is complex and true as far as high-end Chil-ean Cabs go. A saturated, syrupy body reflects a hot vin-tage, while baked flavors of earthy fruits, beef soup and chocolate qualify as stewy but tasty. A warm, flat finish says drink this Cabernet sooner rather than later. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 Echeverria 2009 Limited Edition Caber-net Sauvignon (Central Valley). This is clas-

sic Chilean Cabernet. It’s intense in color, with herb, graphite, licorice and blackberry aromas. The palate is solid, maybe a touch tannic, with oaky, beefy flavors of black fruits, anise and herbs. A solid-feeling, wholesome finish with modest complexity is the final act. Drink now through 2020. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Emiliana 2010 Coyam (Colchagua Val-ley). After a foxy, jumpy smelling bouquet with

animal fur aromas and minerality, this six-grape blend settles and shows its better colors, namely ripe baked-fruit flavors, a whack of oaky vanilla and lastly a modest, smooth finish with just enough acidity to provide kick and pizzazz. Give this blocky, full-bodied blend time in the glass and it will reward you. Drink through 2018. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

90 La Playa 2009 Axel Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Colchagua Valley). This is a rugged,

full-bodied and flavorful Cabernet. Aromas of gritty black cherry and cassis come with herbal undercur-rents. The palate is tight, with firm tannins and foresty, lightly herbal flavors of cassis, wild berry, juniper and chocolate. Drink through 2017. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20


buyingguide90 Ninquén 2009 Ninquén Mountain Vine-

yard (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

89 Estampa 2009 Gold Syrah-Cabernet Sau-vignon-Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua Val-

ley). The nose on this blend of Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec is concentrated, with herbal hints of juniper along with brandied berry and cherry. This is firm and tannic, with deep, earthy flavors of licorice, mint and spiced black fruits. It’s grabby and big throughout, with all the nutmeg, anise and wood spice the wine can take. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

89 Ninquén 2011 Antu Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colch-

agua Valley). This is a dark, concentrated blend with minty oak, lactic aromas, boysenberry and blackberry on the bouquet. The palate is muscular and clampy, with resiny, oak-based grab to go with full tannins. Fla-vors of boyseberry, chocolate, toast and oak end in a warm, oaky finish. Drink now through 2016. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Santa Alicia 2009 Millantu (Maipo Valley). Herbal red-fruit aromas come across scratchy

and suggestive of fresh field greens. The palate is tight and angular, with not much cushion and herbal-leaning flavors of currant and baked raspberry. This finishes herbal and warm tasting, a natural reflection of a hot year. Drink this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenère now. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet

Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 13.abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Viña Santacruz 2011 Chamán Reserva Carménère-Cabernet Sauvignon (Colch-

agua Valley). With floral aromas mixed with darker notes of asphalt, mineral, leather and berry fruit, this opens well. The palate is rubbery in feel but structured. Flavors of bold berry fruits, chocolate and herbs end chewy, warm and chocolaty. For a basic Carmenère-Cabernet blend, this is on the money. Wines to the World. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Anakena 2010 Alwa Limited Edition Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley).

Blueberry and boysenberry aromas blend with graham cracker and cardamon scents to give off an exotic nose. In the mouth, this is hard, narrow and tannic, with a grating overall feel and earthy, baked, limited flavors of blackberry and toast. A long, tannic finish is choppy in feel and monotone in flavor. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Los Quil-layes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Maipo Valley). A dry, earthy bouquet with leather,

spice and typical Chilean herbal-berry aromas leads to a concentrated palate with creamy oak and earthy weight counteracted by firm tannins. Flavors of baked black-berry, cassis, nutmeg and herbs finish with cinnamon, licorice and raw oak notes. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

88 Errazuriz 2010 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua Valley). Crusty

berry aromas mesh with olive, mineral notes and leath-er to form a textbook Chilean Cab bouquet. The palate feels fresh and offers kick via tomatoey acids. Flavors of dried cherry, herbs, fresh tomato and mint end in a good feeling finish with mild herbal leftovers. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 O. Fournier 2009 Red (Maule Valley). With aromas of wet clay, cinnamon, dry spice, vanilla

and earthy berry, this Cab Franc-led blend delivers a chewy, oaked-up palate with powerful flavors of mint, chocolate, baking spices and berry fruits. It’s a bit hard and tannic, but it’s a generous wine with tons of flavor. Tempranillo, Inc.. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $13

88 Peñalolen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Opening aromas of cured

meats and rubber blend with berry scents and plenty of herbal essence. This is medium in body, with scratchy tannins and roasted, hickory influenced flavors of black-berry and cassis. A fairly oaky but moderate finish is mild and tasty. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

88 Valle Secreto 2010 Private Edition (Cachapoal Valley). The nose on this blend

of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère is herbal and a touch mulchy, with berry, coffee and olive aro-mas. The palate feels thick and on the cusp of syrupy, with baked, creamy black-fruit flavors that bring carob, chocolate and herbs accents to a modest finish. This is ripe in feel but still smells and tastes a bit herbal. Pre-mium Wine House. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Val-

ley). Despite showing an herbal nose that includes to-mato leaf, carob and creamy oak, this solid, chunky Cab comes around on the palate, where black fruit, pepper and mild herbal flavors set up a warm, toasty, satisfying finish. This comes across as Chilean Cabernet in every way. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Altaïr 2008 Red (Cachapoal Valley). With distinct aromas of field herbs, asphalt, gritty

mineral, herbal berry and burnt toast, this is a chal-lenging blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carme-nère and Petit Verdot. The palate hits hard with aggres-sive tannins and abrasive acidity, while flavors of baked black fruits and coconut announce loud oak. This finish-es hard and gritty, with a mule’s kick. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $80

87 La Playa 2010 Block Selection Reserve Block N. 6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colcha-

gua Valley). Although the bouquet is a touch herbal and raspy, this Cab offers good balance and body in the mouth along with plum, cherry, cassis and spice in mod-erate measures. A bright, fresh-feeling finish ensures a positive lasting impression. Cabernet Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Santa Alicia 2010 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-

ley). This is dark in color and compact on the nose, with can’t-miss aromas of herbal berry, mint, rootiness and chocolate. The palate feels good and fresh, with oak-based flavors of berry fruits that smack down with firm tannins in front of an oaky, medium-long finish. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Santa Helena 2011 Selección del Direc-torio Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon

(Colchagua Valley). Welcoming but basic cassis and berry aromas carrry a leathery accent and a hint of rub-ber. The palate is mildly creamy and comfortable, with cassis, cherry and plum flavors but little beyond that. A clean finish cements this well-made wine’s value posi-tion. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

87 Undurraga 2011 Aliwen Reserva Caber-net Sauvignon-Carmenère (Rapel Val-

ley). This opens hard and crusty, but with airing it softens as chocolate, plastic, creamy oak and spice aro-mas emerge. The palate is compact and fairly full bod-ied, with herbal, roasted, leathery tasting berry flavors that end with savory, oaky notes. Overall, this is a good blend of Cabernet and Carmenère. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

86 San Nicolas 2010 Sophia Gran Reser-va Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley).

Crusty cherry and cassis aromas come with mineral notes and scents of wet clay, hard spice and animal hide. The palate is medium in power and not that structured, with chunky black-fruit flavors offset by spice notes. A baked, dry feeling finish falls off toward herbal. Mont-calm Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Santa Alicia 2009 Anke Blend 1 Cabernet Franc-Petit Verdot (Maipo Valley). This is

a throwback Chilean blend with aromas of tomato leaf, oregano, leather and tobacco along with dried raspber-ry and cherry. The palate has good flow but is light in weight. Flavors of olive, spice and herbs dominate the wine’s light fruit content, while oak and spice flavors control the finish. This is a mix of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Viña Pérez Cruz 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This is a good

but generic Chilean Cabernet, meaning it’s a bit herbal and fiery, with eucalyptus on the nose. In the mouth, this is medium in intensity and modest in character.

WineMag.com | 47

Flavors of herbal red berry, carob and dried leaves end with a touch of heat. South American Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Yali 2011 Wetland Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colch-

agua Valley). After a gritty, fruity smelling opening, this Cabernet-led blend offers fresh, easy flavors of raspberry and plum that conclude simply, light and mel-low. This is a fresh, fruity style of red wine with little oak that’s more than appealing for the price. San Francisco Wine Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Cornellana 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). With rub-

bery, slightly herbal aromas of generic red berry, this comes across standard on the nose. In the mouth, it’s fresh but smacks hard with acidity, while simple rasp-berry and plum flavors end herbal and lightly baked tasting. Viña La Rosa USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Sundance 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Maule Valley). Herbal plum and berry

aromas turn a bit green and herbaceous with airing. In the mouth, this is modest and regular feeling, with leafy flavors of wintergreen running alongside peppery cher-ry and berry. A short, herbal finish is the close. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

84 Tres Palacios 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Herbal aromas

teeter on herbaceous, with bell pepper, rosemary and thyme scents running on top of raspberry and rhubarb. This is full bodied and a bit oaky tasting, with campfire, herbal berry and roasted flavors. A hot finish with ba-con, mint and toast is the close. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

83 Botalcura 2009 Gran Reserva La Porfia Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). The nose

is appealing; there’s a mix of wet clay, spice, red currant and herbs. In the mouth, however, this is tangy to the max, with tart red plum, pie cherry and vanilla flavors. By the time it finishes, acidity has assumed the throne. This is extremely lean and zesty for Cab Franc. Spe-cialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

83 San Nicolas 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Gritty, herbal aromas of ge-

neric berry don’t exactly draw you in. The palate on this rudimentary Cab is rather weak in structure, with herbal, slightly salty flavors of dry, generic berry fruits. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

82 Aguirre 2011 Reina Ana Cabernet Sau-vignon-Merlot (Central Valley). Scratchy,

earthy aromas of red plum and cherry lead to a bland palate with modest raspberry and red plum flavors.

This closes with dried-out red-fruit notes and little else. Global Alliance TR Corp. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Sundance 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). This weakly constituted Cab-

ernet opens with raisiny aromas. Those are backed by a chunky, low-acid palate with raisin and baked plum fla-vors. The finish tastes baked and feels rubbery. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

81 Cornellana 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Cachapoal Valley). Rubbery,

mulchy aromas never clean up and rank as rough. Roughness describes the palate, too, while flavors of herbal fruit, bitterness, hard spices and buttery oak fail to come around. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

austria

grüner veltliner

93 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau).

There is deliciously pure fruit here, rich certainly but with a straight line to pear, sweet orange and peach fla-vors. Behind the fruity exterior is a more structured core, showing spice as well as density and final acidity. Age for three years and more. Circo Vino. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $56

92 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung

(Wachau). Big, rich wine, packed with spice, ripe peach and mango flavors. Designated a Library Wine by Knoll, it is complex, ageworthy, with a weight of both fruit and pepper to it. Keep this powerful wine for at least another 2–3 years. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $79

92 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Schütt Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Give Grüner

the chance to become really ripe and you end up with luscious, rich wines like this. It may be dry, but its tex-ture is so unctuous and soft. Its peach, lychee and kiwi fruit acidity offer the chance for drinking soon, but also promise good aging over the next 2–3 years. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $56

88 Winzer Krems 2012 Kellermeister Privat Kremser Goldberg Grüner Veltliner

(Kremstal). The wine served at Vienna’s famed Opera Ball, this is crisp, herbaceous with apple and citrus fruits already showing a totally refreshing character. It would benefit from a few months in bottle. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Winzer Krems 2012 Kremser Sandgru-be Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich).

The Sandgrube vineyard is one of the larger vineyards in the Krems area, well exposed to the Danube river. This Grüner is soft, finely formed, with a youthful tex-

ture that gives a mineral tang. Keep this wine for a year. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

88 Winzer Krems 2012 Wein Manufak-tur Krems Grüner Veltliner (Niederös-

terreich). A ripe and full-bodied wine. It offers rich creamed apple and peach flavors as well as a contrast-ing citrus element. Minerality adds texture to this still young wine that needs some bottle aging. Screwcap. To-tal Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Hirsch 2010 Veltliner No 1 Grüner Veltlin-er (Niederösterreich). Deliciously refresh-

ing, peach and apricot flavored wine. It is soft while also crisp, bright and fruity. There’s a refreshing lemon zest tang to finish. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

87 Höpler 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Burgen-land). Tangy orange zest and lime are the dom-

inant flavors of this bright, refreshing wine. There’s al-most a spritz here, very fruity, crisp, finishing with spice and pepper. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Winzer Krems 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). Creamy textured wine, soft

and ripe. It has attractive pure acidity that lies lightly on the palate, blended well with riper red apple, pear and just crisp acidity. Ready to drink in six months. Screw-cap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Lustig 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Weinland Österreich). A fresh, fruity wine, full of crisp

apples with a touch of pear. It’s in the bright, light style of the one liter bottles from Austria, a great party wine. Monika Caha Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA/1 L

85 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Mo-Velt Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). A rich

style of Grüner, showing pear and peach fruits and a warm texture. There is citrus acidity present, support-ing the richness. It’s a ready-to-drink simple wine, fin-ishing full and fruity. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 Winzer Krems 2012 Sandgrube 13 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A

wine that is soft, fragrant and very fruity. There’s a touch of spice, pepper as well as tangy lemon zest. Sandgrube 13 is the address of the Krems cooperative. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

sauvignon Blanc

92 Neumeister 2011 Klausen Sauvignon Blanc (Südoststeiermark). A rounded style

of Sauvignon Blanc that has a full feeling to it. Yes, there is plenty of herbaceous and citrus character but this is just a part of a rich medley of riper fruits all in a steely


buyingguidetexture. Worth aging for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Sattlerhof 2011 Sernauberg Erste Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Ripe

mango, peach and pineapple all come together in this rich, opulent wine. Round yet there’s a strong ginger and spice component. This is a complex wine, textured, rich and worth aging for at least another two years. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

91 Sattlerhof 2010 Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). The village of Gam-

litz is dominated by the Kranachberg vineyard. The ex-ample from Sattlerhof shows the natural tropical rich-ness from the warm soils. There is a herbal character to go with the more spicy, fruity. A mineral texture at the end gives bite. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $52

89 Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik Sau-vignon Blanc (Steiermark). Bright, fruity

Sauvignon Blanc that has a touch of tropical fruits as well as more citrus and grassy characters. Klassik is the most open, attractive, ready-to-drink style from Styria. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Sattlerhof 2011 Steirische Klassik Sau-vignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). With tropi-

cal fruit richness, this is a full and rounded Sauvignon Blanc. It has weight, its spicy texture filled out with both opulent fruits and a crisper citrus acidity. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

87 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Obe-re Wies Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland).

Ripe, tropical fruit Sauvignon Blanc from vines close to the Neusiedlersee lake. The wine has peach and pine-apple flavors that are counterbalance by a more herbal, grassy back taste. Because it is so young, it does need a few more months in bottle. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Sattlerhof 2012 Vom Sand Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Styria’s trademark

Sauvignon Blanc in its purest, freshest form. It has deli-cious acidity, pear and white peach flavors and a burst of grapefruit freshness. Drink now, or hold for a year. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19

riesling

94 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Schütt Dürn-steiner Riesling Smaragd (Wachau).

From vineyards close to the romantic ruins of Dürn-stein castle, this is a steely, tight, nervy wine, full of citrus fruits, taut acidity and a a crisp texture. It’s still very young, a wine that needs several years to really age properly. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $74

92 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Tight, bright

acidity leads off this elegant, perfumed wine. With its white fruit and citrus flavors it is both rich and refresh-ing. A fine mineral streak runs right through this com-plex, certainly ageworthy wine. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $61

91 Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Pfaffenberg Steiner Selection Riesling (Niederöster-

reich). Ripe and weighty, this is a rich wine from the Pfaffenberg vineyard in Krems. It has spice as well as perfumed white fruits, a sense of structure and concen-tration. It feels warm with peach and white fruit flavors likely to develop along with acidity over the next 3–4 years. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $66

88 Höpler 2011 Riesling (Burgenland). Ries-ling is a rare visitor in the warm climate of Bur-

genland. But its delicious perfumed acidity is all there, bringing out white peach and lime flavors. Crisp and likely to benefit from a year’s aging. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

white Blends

92 Loimer 2011 Schell Mann in Gumpold-skirchen (Thermenregion). A blend of local

grapes (Zierfandler and Rotgipfler) this is impressive. Rich, perfumed, its fragrant fruits a medley of mulberry, pear and spiced apple. The acidity cuts right through, giving a wine that is both very ripe, balanced and finely textured. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2010 Leitha-berg Pinot Blanc-Chardonnay (Burgen-

land). Rich, tropical fruit flavors. It shows a light touch of wood aging to round and soften the intense and ripe fruits. With the complex fruits, the concentrated texture and the full-bodied character, this is a wine for aging over at least three years. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

87 Neumeister 2011 Gemischter Satz (Südoststeiermark). A field blend that’s an

Austrian tradition. It’s a delicious, precocious mouth full with its apple acidity and fresh pink grapefruit flavors. It’s a pleasure to drink now as an aperitif wine. Screw-cap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

other white wines

91 Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Satzing Rot-gipfler (Thermenregion). A single vineyard

wine with the typical spice and richness of Rotgipfler, a rare grape found only in Thermenregion, south of Vi-enna. Just off dry, so soft and warm in character, it has ripe pear, lychee and kiwi fruit flavors. Ready to drink, or age another year or two. Circo Vino. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $42

91 Neumeister 2011 Steintal Roter Traminer (Südoststeiermark). Heavily perfumed Tra-

miner that comes with the faintest pink tinge. The wine has a rich, fragrant character that is shot through with fresher acidity. Try this wine with spicy foods or as a vivid aperitif. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik Grauburgunder (Südoststeiermark).

Grauburgunder, aka Pinot Gris from warm vineyards, giving a rich, unctuous texture, a lightly perfumed char-acter that also maintains freshness and attractive acidity. Keep for six months. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Johanneshof Reinisch 2012 Rotgipfler (Thermenregion). Rotgipfler is almost an ex-

clusivity to Thermenregion. This bright, fruity wine is deliciously crisp with spice, pepper and pear flavors. It has a light lemon edge brought out by the refreshing acidity. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik Gel-ber Muskateller (Steiermark). There is just

a hint of perfume on this orange peel and rosewater fla-vored wine. Crisp, clean and light, it dances across the palate with bright, easy steps. The edgy texture adds a touch of complexity. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

87 Höpler 2012 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland). Soft and fruity wine with flavors of bananas,

pineapple and crisper acidity. There is a lively essence of lemon flavor that shows brightly through the riper texture. Drink this wine now and over the next year. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Spiegel Zi-erfandler (Thermenregion). One of two

grapes found exclusively in Thermenregion (the other is Rotgipfler), Zierfandler, as here, produces floral wines with intense acidity. This wine is bright, lemon and pear fruits cutting the texture. There is just a touch of sweet-ness to balance all the acidity. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

86 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Heide-boden Chardonnay (Burgenland). Super-

ripe wine that shows plenty of warm, aromatic Char-donnay fruits. White plums are balanced by intense spicy acidity with a more rounded core. The wine has a weight and richness that is cut by a grapefruit freshness. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Mus-kat Ottonel (Burgenland). Often used to

make Austrian sweet wines, Muskat Ottonel here is an off-dry wine. The wine brings out the perfumed char-acter of the grape, a simple, full and ripe wine that has rough edges. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $15

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rosé

86 Winzer Krems 2012 Sandgrube 13 Rosé Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). A deliciously

fragrant, fresh wine, bright and lively. It has intense, tangy acidity that cuts right through red currant and raspberry fruit flavors. Ready to go now. Screwcap. To-tal Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

Pinot noir

90 Johanneshof Reinisch 2010 Grillenhügel Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). Bitter cherry

fruits and firmer tannins dominate this serious, concen-trated Pinot Noir. It has weight and a youthful bitter-ness that needs time to round out. The juiciness and the structure are both there for aging. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

86 Höpler 2009 Pinot Noir (Burgenland). Juicy, light in color and texture, the wine is

ready to drink with its soft red fruits and fine tannins. The acidity gives a little lift at the end. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). Soft, perfumed wine that

has fresh red berry fruits, ripe tannins and a juicy fra-grance. This is fruity and ready for drinking in the next 2–3 years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

zweigelt

88 Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Zweigelt (Thermenregion). A firmly tannic wine, its

dry core surrounded by dark plum skin and damson fla-vors. It has weight, a potential for richness that will de-velop over the next 2–3 years. Solid and chunky after-taste. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Heide-boden Zweigelt (Burgenland). From the

Heideboden vineyard, this mineral, structured wine has serious, dark fruits and an initial austerity. Spice, firm tannins and a dark character offer the potential for ag-ing over a good few years–give it at least 4. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Zwickl Zweigelt (Burgenland). Soft, earthy, full-

bodied wine. It has attractive red berry fruits, light tan-nins, a juicy wine that has open fruit flavors. Drink now. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

85 Ecker 2011 Zweigelt (Weinland Öster-reich). Fresh and fruity, this brings out the

strawberry and bright fruits of the Zweigelt. A touch of tannin gives the wine shape and structure, while it fin-

ishes with juicy, fruity acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA/1 L

red Blends

89 Loimer 2010 Schell Mann an der Südbahn (Thermenregion). Loimer, better known as a

producer in Kamptal, also has vines in the Thermen-region, south of Vienna. This perfumed, smoky wine is deliciously juicy, a welter of red berries balanced with acidity. Great fruit with just enough tannins to ensure structure. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Nit’ana (Burgenland). A big, round and soft wine, full

of blackberry and plum fruits, rich and generous. It has warm tannins as well as touches of wood and a open, ripe aftertaste. The name is a pun on the dialect—nit’ana means “not one” referring to the fact the wine is a blend (as well as the family name, Nittnaus). Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Famos (Burgenland). Full, ripe black berry fruited

wine. Although young, it already has a soft and smooth texture bringing out richness as well as fruitiness. Spice and pepper add complexity. Not for long aging, this is ready to drink now. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

other red wines

92 Johanneshof Reinisch 2009 Holzspur St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Rounded,

smooth, rich wine from the warm Holzspur vineyard. It has weight and structure as well, but it’s the generos-ity of this wine that is immediately striking and attrac-tive. It can be kept, but is ready to drink now. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $76

91 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Edel-grund Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). The

Edelgrund vineyard, along the northern slopes of Lake Neusiedl gives a powerful, structured wine. It layers dark tannins, an initially stern mineral character that needs time to soften. At the same time, the juicy black fruits and tight acidity offer a more fruity aspect. Keep for 4–5 years. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

91 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Sal-zberg Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). This

blend of Merlot and Blaufränkisch allows the ripe Mer-lot to soften the natural structure of Blaufränkisch and bring out juicy, open, generous flavors. With berry fruits to the fore, rounded tannins, a touch of wood and final sweet acidity, this is a wine that will soon be ready to drink. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Fruity, aromatic wine, this

is a few months too young to drink. Already, it is show-

ing its attractive wild berry and rhubarb fruits and soft tannins. There is a juicy, open aftertaste. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

dessert wines

94 Neumeister 2010 Saziani Essenz Trock-enbeerenauslese (Südoststeiermark).

Essenz is the style of wine given to sick emperors as the ultimate medicine. It certainly has a life-giving charac-ter, the distillation of noble rot berries, honeyed and in-tensely texture. The wine has a pure feel, sustained by final acidity. Drink now or age for many years. Freder-ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 6% Price: $NA/375 ml

93 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2006 Säm-ling Trockenbeerenauslese (Burgen-

land). Totally intense, perfumed, spicy and rich in botrytis honey, this is a great sweet wine. Tropical fruits are combined with lime marmalade, the concentration balanced by formidable acidity. Keep this superb wine many years. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $35/375 ml

92 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Trock-enbeerenauslese Essenz (Burgenland).

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sämling, this gold straw colored wine is about freshness and acidity as much as about sweetness. That gives this ageworthy wine a great delicacy and poise, balanced and fresh, the honey botrytis texture attractively layered through this deli-cious wine. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $35

91 Höpler 2009 Pinot Noir Eiswein (Bur-genland). They could make anything into

dessert wine in Burgenland, even Pinot Noir. And this bright gold colored wine is a great success, combining the sweetness and intense acidity with just the light-est touch of tannin. Age this wine for a few more years. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA/375 ml

91 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2005 Char-donnay Trockenbeerenauslese Essenz

(Burgenland). Luscious and opulent, this Essenz is the purest elixir. It has a rich texture, unctuous and smooth, the honey flavors laced with intense acidity. The wine tastes delicious now but all that acidity will al-low it to age many years. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 6% Price: $40/375 ml

90 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Eis-wein Exquisit (Burgenland). From grapes

picked in February 2012, this light, delicate wine is still young, still finding its balanced acidity and fruit. It has a soft, almost gentle fruit and honey character that hides the intense acidity. It needs several years’ aging. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 9% Price: $40/375 ml

89 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Beer-enauslese Exquisit (Burgenland). Aromas

are all of honey, while on the palate the honey balances with acidity, rhubarb and candied orange flavors giving


buyingguidea wine that is rich while still keeping lightness. For me-dium-term aging. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $23/375 ml

89 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2007 Zwei-gelt Trockenbeerenauslese Essenz (Bur-

genland). The tannins of the Zweigelt show through the rich texture of this wine, giving a fascinating balance between smoothness and a dry, firm, smoky core. Even at six years, it does need more aging to round out even more and bring out the natural honey flavors. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $35/375 ml

88 Höpler NV Beerenauslese (Burgenland). Sweet and dry, this is a wine that shows its

botrytis fruit character right up front. That’s paired with orange marmalade and honey to give richness. The fin-ish is light and crisp with acidity. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA/375 ml

germany dry white wines

mosel

94 S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Dompropst GG Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 4.

abv: 12% Price: $70

93 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Schar-zhofberger GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel).

Smoky and dark with violet and heather tones, there’s a sexy subtlety to this complex, shadowy wine. The palate is bright and sunny with ripe fruit flavor, but it’s quite dry in style, with an intense shower of crushed minerals and lime acidity that penetrate the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $65

93 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Wehle-ner Sonnenuhr GG Riesling Trocken (Mo-

sel). This beautiful dry Riesling highlights intense min-erality against a delicate backdrop of white blossoms, lemon-peel and lanolin notes. It’s richly textured with ripe tangerine and peach flavors that finish long with a steely, honed focus. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

93 S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Old Vines Dry Riesling (Mosel). There’s so

much ripe, lush peach and quince flavor in this intense-ly concentrated Riesling, but the palate is dry and nu-anced. Fruit melds into layers of crushed slate, ash, and herbal green notes, finishing long with a hint of smoky petrol. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $47

92 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Pies-porter Goldtröpfchen GG Riesling Trock-

en (Mosel). Lemon rind and fresh, green herbs add a flash of elegance to this dry, intensely textural Riesling. It’s lush and rich with stonefruit flavor, but bristles on the palate with lime pith and jasmine tea astringency.

Sunny and bright, but brisk with acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $64

92 S.A. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Old Vines Dry Riesling (Mosel). This is an

intensely minerally, dry Riesling that showcases an array of crushed stone and earth elements against a backdrop of heather floral and yellow stonefruit flavors. It’s richly textured and finishes long with a feathery touch on the palate. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $47

91 Dr. Loosen 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Intense-

ly perfumed with notes of violet petals, potpourri and herbs, this is a stunning, elegant Riesling that’s also powerfully structured on the palate. It’s intensely ripe with stonefruit, but quite dry in style with reverberating lime-juice acidity and a deliciously astringent lime-pith note on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $42

91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Jo-sephshöfer GG Riesling Trocken (Mo-

sel). Smoke and crushed slate reverberate from start to finish on this intensely minerally, dry Riesling. It’s linear in style with a lean, steely feel, but is anchored by delec-tably bright Meyer lemon and orange-peel notes on the palate. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $67

91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Kaseler Nies’chen GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel).

This dry, remarkably minerally Riesling highlights tones of granite and wet slate against a backdrop of fresh ap-ple, lemon and tangerine. It’s broad and textural on the palate, with sharp lime juice acidity and a hint of lemon pith and herb on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $64

90 Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Prälat Alte Re-ben GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Lush

flavors of preserved peach are touched with notes of sa-vory herb, lanolin and blossom on this dry, but deep-ly penetrating Riesling. Bright lemon acidity shines through a textured, glycerine sheen on the palate, lin-gering long with a murmur of crushed slate and stone. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

90 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Braune-berger Juffer-Sonnenuhr GG Riesling

Trocken (Mosel). While elegantly fruity with hints of fresh peach and apple, this dry, mineral-focused Ries-ling showcases a lean, intensely linear profile. Brisk and revitalizing,it gains texture and astringency on the finish with hints of lanolin and lime pith. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $65

other dry whites

93 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2010 Wallhausen

Felseneck GG Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Dry and

steely in focus, yet ebulliently fruity and floral on the nose and palate, there’s so much dimension to this fan-tastic Riesling. Intensely ripe stonefruit flavors leave an irresistible glycerine slick on the palate, but it finishes clean with a shower of crushed-stone minerality and steel. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $66

92 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2010 Wallhausen

Johannisberg GG Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Ev-erything about this dry, voluptuous Riesling is intense and penetrating. The palate is concentrated with stone-fruit and yellow flower notes, and bristling with lemon-lime acidity. Rich layers of crushed stone and mineral oil linger deliciously on the finish. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Schloss Reinhartshausen 2009 Erbach Schlossberg Monopole Erstes Gewächs

Riesling (Rheingau). There’s a voluptuous weighti-ness to this textured, floral Riesling. The palate is laden with ripe stonefruits accented with hints of white pep-per and lime zest. Finishes long with a shower of lemon-lime acidity and an intensely mineral, lanolin slick. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $35

germany fruchtig white wines

mosel

94 Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Per-

fumed on the nose with heady yellow florals and stone-fruit, this is one stunner of a Riesling. It’s powerfully concentrated on the palate with flavors of honey and sweet peach tinged with lanolin and wax. Penetrating and pure in focus, yet remarkably delicate in texture, it finishes long with layers of crushed-stone minerality. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $58

93 Dr. Loosen 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Smoke and vio-

let florals add nuance to sweet quince jelly and yellow peach notes on this vibrant, mouthwatering Riesling. It’s delicate in frame, but penetrates the palate with rich, juicy fruit and a shower of orange acidity that car-ries a long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $64

93 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Graacher Himmel-reich Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Intense-

ly earthy notes of honey and wax, and just the faintest whiff of petrol, are enticing precursors of maturity with-in an otherwise delightfully fresh, fruity Riesling. It’s delicately crisp on the palate, but ends with a long, lano-lin-coated finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42

93 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This

wine is unabashedly forward with sweet, juicy, stone-

WineMag.com | 51

fruit intensity, yet remarkably composed. Delicately structured, it’s anchored with piercing citrus acidity and a bristle of crushed-stone and slate minerality on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $57

93 Schloss Saarstein 2010 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese (Mosel).

This stunning Riesling is a showcase of Riesling’s in-credible propensity for dimension and harmony, balanc-ing fruit and earth notes with an array of exotic spice. It’s juicy and ripe with sweet stonefruit flavor, but shines with piercing acidity and minerality. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $66

92 Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Lemon cream,

spice and lanolin notes add a mysterious veil to this delicate yet intensely concentrated Riesling. It’s sweet on the palate with ripe, honeyed citrus, and a delicious mineral oil sheen that lengthens the palate. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $64

92 Dr. Loosen 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Dark, smoky

earth notes and savory dried herbs add fascinating com-plexity to intensely floral, sweet stonefruit and citrus flavors on this flavorful, yet delicately structured Ries-ling. Lime and tangerine acidity reverberate on the pal-ate, leading a long, minerally finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $64

92 Markus Molitor 2010 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This in-

tensely fruity, delicately structured Riesling showcases layers and layers of sweet stonefruit and qince jelly fla-vors. The attack is honeyed and rich, but balanced with a shower of citrus acidity and a steely minerality that lin-gers long on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $54

92 Von Schleinitz 2009 Koberner Weissen-berg Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Lanolin

and waxy lemon-peel notes add an enticingly savory el-ement to sweet, intensely concentrated citrus and hon-ey flavors on this crisp Auslese-style Riesling. Shrieking acidity offsets all the juicy sweetness, leaving the finish remarkably dry. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $35

91 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Schar-zhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

Semi-sweet in style with a ripe, intensely fruity palate, this delicate little Riesling is surprisingly complex with layers of wax, honey and lemon-pith that reverberate on a brisk, minerally palate. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $23

91 Dr. Hermann 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (Mosel). White pepper

and savory dried-herb notes add a dark dimension to super-concentrated stonefruit flavors on this delicate, almost gossamer-like Riesling. It’s penetrating on the

palate with tangerine acidity and a long, lanolin and honey-coated finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $50

91 Dr. Loosen 2011 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Intensely aro-

matic with notes of orange blossom, honey and tanger-ines, this juicy, fruity Riesling is delicate in body with a refreshingly crisp acidity. Whiffs of lanolin and dried herbs add complexity and finesse. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $32

91 Dr. Loosen 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This wine is

fresh and vibrant in acidity and structure, yet penetrat-ing on the palate with sweet, ripe stonefruit and yellow floral notes. Hints of lime pith and jasmine tea add tex-ture and astringency on the long, mineral-laden finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $32

91 Markus Molitor 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Scents of tanger-

ine peel and lanolin add a spicy complexity to intense-ly fruity, sweet peach and nectarine flavors on this gor-geously honeyed, yet easy-drinking Riesling. Striking lemon acidity and crushed stone notes add delicacy and nuance to the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $54

91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 21 (Mosel). Notes of

hay, pollen and beeswax add a savory, honeyed tone to this exquisitely dainty Riesling. The palate is intense-ly packed with sweet citrus fruit, but it’s balanced with striking acidity and a shower of minerality on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $83

90 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Dom Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of lanolin

and white flowers add freshness to this lavishly honeyed, deliciously fruity Riesling. Its sweet stone-fruit flavors are balanced with a spray of fresh lime acidity, giving it a lingering but refreshing finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $19

90 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Pies-porter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett Riesling

(Mosel). Smoke and crushed stone notes add a savory, earthy element to sweet, honeyed tangerine and apricot flavors on this bright, brisk, remarkably complex Ries-ling. It’s delicately structured but penetrating in style with a long, focused finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $23

90 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Schar-zhoferger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Sa-

vory dried-herb notes and dusty, crushed-stone min-erality add tones of elegance to sunny, sweet tanger-ine and quince flavors on this lithesome little Riesling. Bursting with fresh fruit and acidity, it’s a refreshingly easy quaffer with surprising dimension. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $30

90 Dr. Hermann 2011 H Riesling (Mosel). Honeyed lemon and white floral notes are

bright,brisk and breezy on the nose and palate of this exceptionally refreshing off-dry Riesling. It’s nervy with acidity and steely minerality, with a delicate spritz that gives the palate extra effervescence and vibe. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $17

90 Eifel-Pfeiffer 2011 Estate Collection Riesling Auslese (Mosel). There’s so much

sweet fruit intensity to this lip-smackingly tasty Ries-ling. Simultaneously, it’s brisk and bright on the palate with bristling tangerine acidity and a hint of fresh herb-al tones on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $29

90 Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese** Off-Dry (Mo-

sel). The “**” designation on this wine indicates the ex-ceptional selection process used to pick intensely ripe, late-harvest grapes for this Auslese. Just a hint off dry, it’s exceptionally full bodied with a rich, minerally pal-ate accented by flecks of sweet stonefruit and honey. Brisk acidity offsets the voluptuous mouthfeel. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $70

90 Peter Nicolay 2010 Erdener Prälat Ries-ling Auslese (Mosel). Intense smoke and

nut-skin aromas add an earthy, savory minerality to rich, sweet Meyer lemon and orange-peel notes on the palate of this delicate yet powerful wine. There’s massive com-plexity here, revealing itself in layers and layers on the long, lingering palate. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $40

89 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Fresh,

green herbal notes and stony minerality add freshness to sweet stonefruit and yellow flowers on this crisp, dainty Kabinett. Bristling with acidity, the finish extends long on a lusciously ripe citrus note. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $23

89 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

(Mosel). Fresh lemon-peel and lanolin notes add com-plexity to this bright, intensely fruity Riesling. Crisp with acidity, it’s refreshingly easy on the palate, with a delicate, lacy sugar note that lingers long on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $23

89 Loosen Bros. 2011 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel). Intense lemon and lime-skin aromas add sheen

to ripe, juicy citrus, peach and honey flavors in this off-dry Riesling. Racy and crisp on the palate, it finishes vibrant and dry with lingering crushed-slate minerality. A fantastic bargain for such a solid wine. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $12

88 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Ayer Kupp Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is


buyingguidebright and citrusy on the nose and palate with a distinct-ly chalky minerality and delicate, almost lacy, mouth-feel. It’s lean and focused with fresh lemon acidity and zest notes that extend on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $29

86 Adolph Mueller 2011 Bereich Bernkas-tel Riesling (Mosel). Intense tangerine notes

are flecked with hints of powdered sugar, dried herbs and potpourri on this pleasant off-dry Riesling. It’s easy drinking with lush, slightly overripe fruit, but finishes quite dry with a steely, honeyed feel. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $13

86 Peter Mertes 2011 Platinum Riesling (Mosel). Juicy and ripe with flavors of peach,

tangerine and apple, this is an easy-drinking, off-dry Riesling. Delicately structured, it finishes moderate-ly long with a pleasantly bitter lime pith note. Banks Channel. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $8

85 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2011 Fritz Fisk Ries-ling (Mosel). Green, herbal notes are promi-

nent on this brisk, savory Riesling. Lemony acidity and hints of bitter lime pith add a stark, refreshing quality that would accompany rich goat cheese or cured meats quite well. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $13

rheingau

93 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Auslese (Rhein-

gau). Delicate orange blossom and honey flavors meld with fresh, green herbal notes on this elegant, yet lushly textured, Riesling. The palate is off-dry with concentrat-ed white peach flavors, but finishes dry on a lingering chalky note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $167

93 Schloss Vollrads 2010 Riesling Auslese (Rheingau). While lithe and dainty in struc-

ture, this little Riesling packs a big punch of floral and honeyed fruit flavor. It’s rich and complex with notes of smoke, caramelized sugar, and layers of crushed rocks that linger on the long, orange-scented finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $45/375 ml

92 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Mi-chelmark Riesling Auslese (Rheingau).

Spice and lanolin notes are curious and enticing on the nose and palate of this sunny and sweet, but impeccably balanced Riesling. Juicy, supple, apple jelly and quince flavors are offset by striking acidity and steely mineral-ity that reverberate on the finish. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $126

91 Dr. Nägler 2010 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese (Rheingau).

Hints of spice and pollen add dimension to ripe peach, apple and honey notes on this decadent but composed Riesling. It’s lip-smackingly sweet on the attack, but

sharp, steely acidity and hints of tea leaf extend long on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $48

90 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese (Rhein-

gau). There’s an earthy savoriness that adds shades of mystery to this otherwise sunny, sweet, delicate Ries-ling. It’s concentrated with ripe yellow peach and hon-ey flavors, but balanced with penetrating acidity and a murmur of crushed stones on the finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $53

northeast italy

alto adige whites

91 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appia-no 2011 Sanct Valentin Sauvignon (Alto

Adige). This is one of the most beautiful Sauvignons made in Italy. The cool mountainous climate of the Do-lomites has shaped a fragrant and elegant wine with tons of exotic fruit, white pepper, dried sage and tan-gerine. There’s a touch of roundness in the mouth that gives it extra staying power. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

91 Tramin 2011 Unterebner Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). Pinot Grigio doesn’t get better

than this. Fresh and fragrant, this lovely wine offers beautiful intensity and a soft, smooth consistency. Peach nectar, tangerine, lemon curd and white almond all ap-pear in perfect doses. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33

90 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2010 Sanct Valentin Pinot Grigio (Alto

Adige). This is a sophisticated and toasted expression of Pinot Grigio that offers thick tones of exotic fruit, apricot, butter, almond and butterscotch. The mouth-feel is creamy, soft and beautifully intense. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

90 Colterenzio 2010 Formigar Cornell Char-donnay (Alto Adige). Here is a finely craft-

ed Chardonnay that shows soft aromas of apricot and peach backed by mild tones of melted butter and toast-ed almond nut. This wine is characterized by extreme balance and structure that makes it perfect for white meat or shellfish. Empire Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

90 Tramin 2011 Sauvignon (Alto Adige). This gorgeous Sauvignon stands apart thanks to the

creaminess and richness it offers in the mouth. That ex-tra density is backed by bright aromas of peach, white flower, exotic fruit and dried sage. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

89 Colterenzio 2011 Prail Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Beautifully fragrant and breezy with

summer aromas of white flower, green herb and exot-ic fruit, here is the perfect summer sipping wine. Pair

this Sauvignon with spaghetti with vongole and freshly chopped parsley. Empire Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appia-no 2011 Sanct Valentin Gewürztraminer

(Alto Adige). Sweet peach nectar and fragrant white flower open the nose of this lush Gewürztraminer. The wine feels slightly sweet and sticky on the palate with rich density and a waxy finish. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2010 Sanct Valentin Chardonnay (Alto

Adige). Here’s an opulent Chardonnay from the far north of Italy that opens with a thick, creamy bouquet of caramel, apricot and honey. Dry mineral notes and crisp acidity balance out those ripe fruit flavors. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

88 Colterenzio 2011 Weisshaus Pinot Bian-co (Alto Adige). This is a beautifully smooth

and pleasurable expression of Pinot Bianco that offers peach and melon aromas that are broad and compelling in context. In the mouth, the wine shows density and creamy thickness with enough acidity to keep the palate refreshed: A perfect seafood wine. Empire Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21

87 Elena Walch 2011 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). The cool climate of Italy’s mountain-

ous north has shaped the crisp aromas of this well craft-ed Pinot Bianco. Pear, golden delicious apple and apri-cot open the bouquet and the wine is soft and smooth in the mouth. Chambers & Chambers. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Josef Weger 2011 Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). This is a thick and sticky white wine

from Northern Italy that shows a fragrant bouquet of exotic fruit and white flower backed by a waxy, thick tex-ture in the mouth. That cool climate, mountain acidity helps to keep the palate refreshed. Magellan Wine Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

delle venezie

86 Ecco Domani 2011 Collezione Pinot Gri-gio (Delle Venezie). Ecco Domani delivers

consistent, easy-drinking wines that work well on infor-mal occasions, but don’t necessarily offer personality or territorial typicity. But we don’t always want intellectual wines. If you are hankering for bright citrus and peach with mouth-cleansing acidity, this is a great choice. Gal-lo Of Sonoma Winery. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Bosco dei Cirmioli 2011 Chardonnay (Delle Venezie). There’s a ripe and spicy side

to this thick Chardonnay from Central Italy that is fol-

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lowed by tones of orange skin and apricot. The finish is thick and chewy. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Sartori 2012 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Produced in large stainless steel vats, this is a

steady and commercial Pinot Grigio that touches all the bases of freshness, fruitiness and simplicity. Pair it with Thai spring rolls or dim sum. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Antica Corte 2011 White (Delle Venezie). Two of the most planted white varieties of the

Veneto (Pinot Grigio and Garganega) are blended here to offer soft peach and citrus tones followed by a soft and slightly thick mouthfeel. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Bosco dei Cirmioli 2011 Sauvignon (Del-le Venezie). This creamy Sauvignon from

Central Italy opens with ripe fruit aromas of citrus and melon followed by a tangy point of sage or Mediterra-nean herb. It feels thin and shows mild acidity. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA

84 My Moon 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene-zie). Here’s a steady value wine from Northern

Italy that shows easy aromas of citrus and melon backed by fresh acidity and a lively mouthfeel. Pair this wine with raw mozzarella drizzled with olive oil. CWS Wines Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Piera Martellozzo 2011 Terre Magre Mal-vasia (Delle Venezie). Terre Magre is a

tight and focused white wine with dusty mineral notes backed by peach, lemon and white flower. The wine is simple and easy with a lively fragrant quality that keeps it cheerful and light. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

83 Antica Corte 2011 Pinot Grigio (Del-le Venezie). Easy, thin and bright, this is a

straightforward Pinot Grigio that makes for a totally in-formal, no-fuss drinking experience. It feels watery and thin in the mouth with mild tones of grapefruit and mel-on on the close. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

83 Cantina di Soave 2011 Volére Pinot Gri-gio (Delle Venezie). This very informal boxed

wine from Northern Italy shows a quality of fruit that spans from exotic papaya and mango to slightly oxidized tones of butterscotch candy and pineapple. It drinks easily enough. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15/1.5 L

83 Cara Mia NV Chardonnay (Delle Vene-zie). Here are three liters of oddly fragrant

Chardonnay. The wine offers jasmine and potpourri like tones followed by jammy apricot fruit. TLS Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L

83 Duca del Frassino 2011 White (Delle Venezie). This blend of Garganega (the grape

that makes Soave wines) and Pinot Grigio, here is an

easy and fast-drinking picnic wine from Northern Italy. The nose shows tones of stone fruit, melon and citrus. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA/3 L

83 Ecco Domani 2011 Moscato (Delle Vene-zie). At the peak of the Moscato trend sweep-

ing the United States, Ecco Domani offers this fun, sweet white wine (with moderate but soft efferves-cence) that shows endnotes of golden delicious apple, peach and white flower. Serve it as an appetizer wine. Gallo Of Sonoma Winery. —M.L. abv: 8.5% Price: $NA

83 My Moon 2011 Sauvignon (Delle Vene-zie). My Moon is a thin and watery Sauvignon

that offers just enough aromatic intensity in terms of peach, sage and honey to make it mildly interesting. Pair with with spicy Thai spring rolls. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

82 Cara Mia NV Sauvignon Blanc (Delle Venezie). Light and watery, this boxed Sauvi-

gnon Blanc offers simple fruit with some mineral and citrus at the back. There’s not much here, but the fresh-ness is nice. TLS Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L

other white wines

89 Loacker 2010 Ateyon Chardonnay (Vi-gneti delle Dolomiti). Here is a beautiful

Chardonnay from the cool climate of Northern Italy that shows vibrant tones of citrus, tangerine skin, white almond and honeydew melon. What sets it apart is the zesty freshness of the mouthfeel and the wine’s crisp acidity. Verity Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Tenuta di Angoris 2011 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This is a compel-

ling expression of Ribolla Gialla that shows soft tones of exotic fruit and peach backed by a smooth and creamy mouthfeel. Pair this Italian white with fish baked in salt crust. MS Walker. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22

87 Talis Wine 2011 Sauvignon (Venezia Gi-ulia). This expression of Sauvignon offers very

nice richness in the mouth thanks to its creamy den-sity and medium structure. The aromas, instead, re-call peach, apricot, yellow rose and honey. Pair this wine with chicken tandoori. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Zuani 2011 Vigne White (Collio). Made with the Friulano grape (with small percentag-

es of international varieties), this is a freshly floral and intense Italian white with lingering tones of peach and honeysuckle. It shows creamy richness in the mouth. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Conte Brandolini 2011 D’Adda Friulano (Friuli Grave). There’s a spicy touch of white

pepper or dried sage backed by peach and melon that gives this Friulano extra lift and intensity. It feels simple and thin in the mouth but it does shows signs of terri-torial identity thanks to its unique bouquet. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

86 Conte Brandolini 2011 D’Adda Pinot Gri-gio (Friuli Grave). This is a correct and clean

Pinot Grigio that offers easy aromas of peach and melon with backnotes of yellow rose and pineapple. The wine is crisp and slightly acidic or lemony on the close. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Tenute Grandi & Gabana 2011 Borgo Crosaris Pinot Grigio (Friuli). Made in a

familiar style for those who enjoy easy and fresh Pinot Grigio, Borgo Crosaris is appropriate for informal sum-mer lunches on the patio. Citrus, peach and cut grass are the most obvious aromatic elements. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Cavit 2011 Collection Oak Zero Chardon-nay (Trentino). For full review see page 15.


83 Bolla 2011 Moscato (Pavia). This playful Moscato offers simple tones of tangerine skin,

white acacia flower and honey. Luscious ripeness gives the wine a broad and heavy feel in the mouth. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 9.5% Price: $NA

sParkling wine

88 Arunda 2007 Extra Brut Riserva (Alto Adige). This bright sparkling wine shows

creamy nuances of peach and citrus with background notes of freshly baked bread and a touch of vanilla spice. The perlage is smooth and persistent. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

rosés

87 Muri-Gries 2011 Lagrein (Alto Adige). This delightful rosato (made from the Lagrein

grape of Northern Italy) opens with fragrant tones of wild berry, white almond, stone fruit, white cherry and sweet cassis. It feels fresh and light in the mouth and would pair with smoked salmon. Polaner Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

82 Cantina di Soave 2011 Volére Rosato (Delle Venezie). This bright pink rosato opens

with touches of apple skin and citrus, especially pink grapefruit. This exceedingly informal box wine could work at picnics or pool parties. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15/1.5 L


buyingguidered wines

82 Cara Mia NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Delle Venezie). Cara Mia, or “my beloved,” is a fresh

and thin red wine that could pair with grilled hamburg-ers and hotdogs at the park. Fresh cherry and raspberry are followed by a slightly bitter endnote. TLS Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L

82 Duca del Frassino 2011 Red (Delle Vene-zie). Here’s an easy-drinking blend of Cabernet

and Corvina (one of the grapes used in the production of Amarone) that would cheerfully supplement a soft-ball game in the park or frisbee tournament. It’s total-ly unassuming and fresh with sour cherry on the close. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA/3 L

central italy whites

colli Piacentini

87 Luretta 2011 Boccadirosa Malvasia (Colli Piacentini). From organically-farmed Malva-

sia grapes, this aromatic wine opens with bright tones of spring flowers, orange peel, tangerine, honey and marzipan. This is a fragrant and sweet white wine that would work beautifully as an aperitif choice. Flavors Of Italy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Luretta 2011 I Nani e le Ballerine Sauvi-gnon (Colli Piacentini). Made with organi-

cally-farmed fruit, here’s a warm climate Sauvignon (its name translates as “the dwarfs and the ballerinas”) that shows heavy aromas of honeysuckle, exotic fruit, can-died apricot and lemon curd. There’s a waxy texture in the mouth followed by more yellow-fruit flavors. Fla-vors Of Italy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Castello di Luzzano 2011 Tasto di Seta Malvasia (Colli Piacentini). Vintner Giovan-

nella Fugazza has crafted a soft and plush white wine with ripe peach and candied fruit aromas. The fragrant grape used is Malvasia and the wine is sweet and chewy on the close. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22

85 Tenuta Villa Tavernago 2010 Selezione Frassineto Sauvignon Blanc (Colli Pia-

centini). From the border of the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions of Northern Italy, this organic white wine shows warm aromas of peach, apricot, caramel and melon backed by touches of toasted almond and yellow rose. The mouthfeel is chewy and thick. First Tier Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

colline Pescaresi

88 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2011 Pecorino (Col-line Pescaresi). Pecorino is enjoying the

spotlight at the moment as one of the up-and-coming varieties from Central Italy. This oak-fermented expres-

sion opens with slightly caramelized aromas of butter-scotch, candied fruit and candied apricot. The mouth-feel is thick and creamy. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26

88 Talamonti 2012 Trabocchetto Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). Pecorino is a fascinating

white grape from Central Italy that deserves a special look. This expression bursts open with tones of acacia flower and stone fruit and delivers medium density and richness on the finish. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Torre Raone 2010 Pecorino (Colline Pes-caresi). This pretty Pecorino opens with bright

tones of apricot and honey followed by a thick, viscous mouthfeel. Pair it with asparagus or creamy artichoke risotto. Antares. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

colli aPrutini

87 San Lorenzo 2011 Pecorino (Colli Apruti-ni). An intensely spicy bouquet with exotic fruit

tones and freshly milled white pepper sets the tone for this pretty Pecorino. The mouthfeel is driven by round yellow fruit and apricot. Shaw-Ross International Im-porters. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Colleven-tano Pecorino (Colli Aprutini). Colleventa-

no (100% Pecorino) is aged in stainless steel to enhance the grape’s natural aromas of ripe peach, candied fruit, sage and lemon. The wine is bright and dense on the palate with a playful touch of almond marzipan on the close. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

86 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondine-to Passerina (Colli Aprutini). Passerina is a

white grape from Central Italy that has enjoyed an enor-mous growth in popularity and quality in recent years. This expression offers notes of candied or exotic fruit with subtle tones of apricot and pear at the back. There’s a nice feeling of thickness as well that would pair with white meat or shellfish. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondine-to Pinot Grigio (Colli Aprutini). Rondineto

is a slightly caramelized expression of Pinot Grigio that offers tones of butterscotch, candied apricot and sweet honey. In the mouth, this Italian white is creamy and thick. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

lazio

90 Le Rose 2011 Colle dei Marmi Fiano (Lazio). This is an excellent Fiano from an up-

and-coming producer in Lazio. Organic fruit is utilized in this bright, fragrant and rich wine. In the mouth, it tastes thick and smooth, and you can taste a bit of that warm sunshine from Central Italy. A.I. Selections. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

87 Villa Gianna 2011 Vigne del Borgo Sauvi-gnon (Lazio). Known for some of Italy’s most

beautiful sand beaches, you might not consider the re-sort area of Sabaudia (in the Lazio region) a farming area for Sauvignon grapes. Despite the disconnect, this wine brings together territory and variety with ripe aro-mas of exotic fruit, peach and subtle tones of seashell and sulphur. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Cantine Lupo 2010 Terra Marique Ver-mentino (Lazio). This fresh Vermentino from

Lazio in Central Italy opens with fresh notes of cut grass, peach and citrus. There’s a touch of dusty min-eral that adds a dry feeling to the finish. Enoclassica Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Villa Gianna 2011 Innato Circeo White (Lazio). From the Circeo appellation in Lazio

(Central Italy), this blend of Trebbiano (50%), Malva-sia and Chardonnay opens with sticky aromas of honey, ripe peach and candied apricot. The wine feels heavy and waxy in the mouth and could use an extra boost of acidity. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16

83 Villa Gianna 2011 Bludigaia Vivace Char-donnay (Lazio). Ripe peach nectar and apri-

cot fuel the rather simple bouquet of this one-dimen-sional Chardonnay. There’s a distant touch of fresh-ness on the otherwise waxy finish. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $9

terre di chieti

87 Caldora Vini 2011 Colle dei Venti Pecori-no (Terre di Chieti). This pretty expression of

Pecorino opens with a fragrant bouquet of wild flower, stone fruit and sweet honey. The wine holds firmly to the palate thanks to the natural richness of this indig-enous grape. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Farnese 2011 Casale Vecchio Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). Great for salads or spicy

Thai appetizers, this easy white wine opens with aromas of white flower, honey, stone fruit and fresh peach. In the mouth, it is balanced and slightly creamy. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Farnese 2011 Casale Vecchio Cococci-ola (Terre di Chieti). Surely, not many wine

lovers have heard of the Cococciola grape from Central Italy. Here’s your chance to taste it. Fresh and fragrant, the wine offers lush aromas of honey, jasmine and exotic fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20

verdicchio dei castelli di jesi

87 Umani Ronchi 2011 Casal di Serra (Ver-dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Su-

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periore). Umani Ronchi makes some of the best Ver-dicchio you will find in the United States today. There’s a sweet candied quality to the bouquet that is followed by ripe fruit and pineapple. In the mouth, the wine is smooth and silky. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

85 Fazi Battaglia 2011 Titulus (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). A classic wine from

Central Italy, Titulus is packaged in that iconic ampho-ra-shaped bottle and offers fresh aromas of crisp lemon, cut grass and talc powder. With nearly 200,000 cases made, the wine is widely available in retail. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $13

85 Umani Ronchi 2011 Exclamation Point (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classi-

co). Here is a great value wine from Central Italy that opens with grassy tones of garden herb and fresh sage followed by citrus and white peach. The mouthfeel is cool and crisp with a touch of fruity softness. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Marchetti 2011 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Vintner Maurizio Marchetti has crafted

an easy white wine to pair with fish or vegetable curry. The mouthfeel is thin and compact with bright tones of peach, citrus and almond on the close. It is packaged in a fun, amphora-shaped bottle. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

treBBiano d’aBruzzo

86 Talamonti 2012 Trebì (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). Trebbiano is part of that great

family of Italian whites that refreshes and revitalizes the palate—especially on warm summer afternoons. Tal-amonti delivers a pristine expression with grassy notes, citrus and peach. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Caldora Vini 2011 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Here’s a fresh and clean value wine (made with

100% Trebbiano) that opens with cut green-grass aro-mas, citrus and honeydew melon. Pair this wine with fried finger foods. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $11

85 Farnese 2011 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. This bright Trebbiano offers aromas of cut grass,

green olive, citrus and stone fruit. The light, lean mouthfeel would wash down with fried calamari. Emp-son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $11

84 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Ancilla (Trebbi-ano d’Abruzzo). This Trebbiano is off gold in

color and opens with ripe aromas of apricot and candied fruit. The wine shows some heaviness in the mouth with afternotes of fruit and almond. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

other white wines

90 Le Caniette 2010 Io sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia (Offida Pecorino). “I am Gaia, I

am not Lucrezia” is a fantastical expression of Pecorino (an exciting native variety found in Central Italy) that shows extreme sophistication and balance with bright aromas of peach, melon and lemon curd. The wine is soft and round on the long finish. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

87 Vini Iovine 2011 Falanghina (Pompeia-no). Here’s a snappy and bright Falanghina

(that spends some time in wood barrel) with aromas of citrus, tangerine skin, green melon and peach backed by just a shy touch of vanilla and bitter almond. Dolce Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $14

86 Domodimonti 2010 Déjà V (Offida Passe-rina). This bright white wine opens with pretty

touches of apricot, melon and citrus all presented with delicately measured intensity. In the mouth, the wine is light and lean. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 Le Caniette 2011 Lucrezia (Offida Pas-serina). Passerina is a native grape of Central

Italy that makes medium-bodied white wines with good aromatic intensity. There are notes here of exotic fruit and dusty mineral backed by balanced freshness. Mont-calm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Regillo (Fra-scati Superiore). Sweet aromas of honeysuck-

le and fragrant flower open the bouquet of this blend of indigenous grapes from Central Italy. The mouthfeel is slightly thick and viscous but there’s a touch of fresh cit-rus on the close to balance it out. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Barbi 2011 Abboccato (Orvieto Classi-co). “Abboccato” Orvieto Classico means the

wine has just enough residual sugar to make it taste playfully sweet in the mouth. This expression delivers that soft sweetness with one-dimensional flavors of mel-on and stone fruit. Try it as an aperitivo wine. Uva Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Villa Gianna 2011 Nobilvite White (Circeo). Trebbiano, Malvasia and a tiny per-

cent of Chardonnay are blended to produce a sticky, slightly soft wine with lush tones of peachy fruit, canta-loupe and honey. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

rosés

87 Vitiano 2012 Rosato (Umbria). Here’s a beautifully colored rosato made from a blend of

Merlot, Cabernet, Sangiovese and Aleatico. The bou-quet is bright and deeply floral with rose and honey-suckle backed by forest fruit and wild strawberry. The

wine shows depth in the mouth with a touch of soft fruitiness on the finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Talamonti 2012 Rosato (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This lovely rosato (made with

the Montepulciano grape) would pair with spicy Indian dishes or Thai curry. The wine opens with a bright pink color and segues to ripe fruit and wild berry aromas. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Angelini 2011 Sangiovese (Marche). Here’s a fun and easy Sangiovese-based rosato

that offers pretty tones of citrus and raspberry backed by a touch of bitter almond. It would pair with falafel or spicy eggplant purée appetizers. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Tabarrini 2011 Bocca di Rosa Sagrantino (Umbria). This is a strange rosato made with

the Sagrantino grape that shows the natural astringency of this native grape from Umbria and follows with heavy aromas of ripe citrus fruit, pineapple and even a savory touch of old spice. It also shows a touch of sweetness on the close. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $21

83 Villa Gianna 2011 Bludigaia Vivace Rosa-to (Lazio). Sangiovese (75%) and Merlot make

for a plain and simple red blend with wild berry and fresh blueberry aromas. Beyond those notes, the wine is short lived and fresh. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $9

central italy reds

forlì

87 Castelluccio 2007 Ronco dei Ciliegi (For-lì). Ronco dei Ciliegi offers nicely-aged aromas

of cassis and dried raspberry with savory endnotes of leather and spice. There’s some grittiness to the tex-ture and the close shows dried fruit flavors of prune and plum. Drink now. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Celli 2010 Bron & Rusèval Sangiovese (Forlì). There’s a touch of bitter astringency

at first that should soften with just a few more months of bottle aging. Bright cherry and blackberry open the bouquet and are followed by subtle layers of leather, tobacco and wet earth. Pair this wine with buttery or creamy foods. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2011 Not-turno Sangiovese (Forlì). This is the kind of

easy Sangiovese that would pair with pasta, gnocchi or pork chops. The wine shows natural freshness and pret-ty berry nuances. Drei Donà is a landmark estate for the entire Emilia-Romagna region. Vedi Vintners Es-tates Direct Importing . —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2010 Not-turno Sangiovese (Forlì). Notturno is an


buyingguideeasy-drinking Sangiovese that delivers ripe fruit, prune and a dark garnet color. There’s a darker, flatter and bolder quality to the grape farmed in the Forlì area of Emilia-Romagna compared to the same grape in Tus-cany. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2008 Mag-nificat Cabernet Sauvignon (Forlì). This is

a standard Cabernet Sauvignon that sees oak aging for added layers of spice and toast. At the core is a solid base of red fruit and blackberry with easy endnotes of licorice and dried spice. Vintners Estate Direct Import-ing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

ruBicone

88 Umberto Cesari 2005 Tauleto Sangio-vese (Rubicone). This is a boldly extracted

and concentrated expression of Sangiovese (with 10% of the Bursona Longanesi grape) that delivers steady and bold oak aromas. The wood influences are almost too much but will surely integrate as the wine ages in the bottle. Beyond all that spice and toast is a solid core of black berry fruit and prune. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

87 Umberto Cesari 2011 Moma (Rubicone). There’s a soft and plush side to this edition of

Moma that comes forward thanks to the extra cinnamon spice and vanilla present on the bouquet. Red berry fruit and cherry add a note of freshness to the finish. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Umberto Cesari 2009 Moma (Rubicone). This easy blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Caber-

net Sauvignon represents the quintessential pizza wine thanks to its bright acidity that counters melted mozza-rella and its easy berry aromas that promise not to over-whelm the other toppings. Cherries and blueberries add zest and freshness. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Umberto Cesari 2008 Liano (Rubicone). From the little-known Rubicone appellation in

Central Italy, this blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Cab-ernet Sauvignon shows great aspirations. Ultimately, the wine delivers its promise only in part. The fruit tones are dark and jammy and there’s a toasted note of tar or black rubber at the back. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

sangiovese di romagna

88 Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2009 Pru-no Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Su-

periore). There’s a dark and masculine quality to this Sangiovese from Romagna that makes this wine perfect for pork or breaded veal. Dark cherry and prune are backed by bright acidity. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2008 Pru-no Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Su-

periore). Pruno is a very pretty expression of Sangio-vese that delivers a concentrated, bright and almost raw quality of cherry fruit. Spicy oak tones of cinnamon and powdered chocolate fill in the back and render smooth, dry finish. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Umberto Cesari 2010 Riserva (Sangio-vese di Romagna). This is a very satisfying

Sangiovese di Romagna that shows great balance be-tween its spicy oak tones and its bright fruit nuances. Those two sides of the wine meet perfectly at the mid-dle to offer enough acidity, spice and fruit to pair with pasta or roast chicken. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Tre Monti 2009 Thea Riserva (Sangio-vese di Romagna Superiore). Thea Riserva

opens with dark and austere notes of black licorice, tar, black cherry and crushed granite. There’s a dusty qual-ity to the close followed by a dry but fresh finish. Zan-canella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Tre Monti 2011 Campo di Mezzo (San-giovese di Romagna Superiore). Campo

di Mezzo (Sangiovese from Central Italy) opens with a dark garnet color and bold aromas of black cherry, prune, plum and blackberry. It’s definitely a very ripe expression of the variety with a touch of soft sweetness in the mouth. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Tre Monti 2009 Petrignone Riserva (San-giovese di Romagna Superiore). This

Riserva Sangiovese from Central Italy opens with sweet notes of candied fruit and cherry followed by a light and lean feeling in the mouth. Try pairing it with a simple pizza marinara (with tomato, garlic and oregano). Zan-canella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Umberto Cesari 2008 Riserva (Sangio-vese di Romagna). Here is a steady and clean

expression of Sangiovese that delivers steady pulses of cherry and oak spice with smaller doses of cola and lico-rice at the back. The wine is dark and concentrated with a touch of sourness in the mouth. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $21

86 Fattoria Casetto dei Mandorli 2009 Pre-dappio di Predappio Vigna del Generale

Riserva Nicolucci (Sangiovese di Romagna). This is an alcoholic expression of Sangiovese from Ro-magna in Central Italy with a gritty texture and savory aromas of cured meat, leather and dark fruit. A note of crushed mineral reinforces the wine’s overall dryness and austerity. Baldocchino Fine Wines . —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

85 Condé 2010 Sangiovese di Romagna Su-periore. A small percentage of Merlot (just

5%) is added to this bright Sangiovese di Romagna Su-periore for extra softness and cherry intensity. At its es-sence, this is a simple and easy-going wine with short

lived tones of tar, licorice, tea leaf and easy berry flavors. Martellotto Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

84 Condé 2009 Riserva (Sangiovese di Ro-magna Superiore). Despite the care that has

gone into making this wine (it sees up to 18 months of barrel aging), the results are slightly muddled and dis-jointed. Ripe strawberry jam is followed by toasted spice and a touch of wood resin. Martellotto Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

83 Costa Archi 2008 Monte Brullo (Sangio-vese di Romagna Superiore). This San-

giovese hits the palate in a very direct and determined manner because of the biting acidity and high acid-ity that will make your mouth pucker. At the back are tones of bitter cherry and unripe plum. Sunrise Wines . —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $32

82 Costa Archi 2010 Assiolo (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Assiolo is a slightly

tart and bitter expression of Sangiovese with sharp aro-mas of cherry fruit and plum. The tannins show an as-tringent and nervous quality. Sunrise Wines . —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

conero

90 Umani Ronchi 2009 Cúmaro Riserva (Conero). This Riserva Montepulciano may

be an acquired taste to some but it definitely opens a fascinating window onto the potential of wine from Ita-ly’s Adriatic Coast. It offers big, round consistency with bold black fruit, spice and black chewing tobacco. Bed-ford International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $42

88 Fazi Battaglia 2009 Passo del Lupo Riser-va (Conero). Passo del Lupo (85% Montepul-

ciano with Sangiovese for extra acidity) is aged two years in oak but is nonetheless a strange wine with candied aromas of cassis and raspberry lollipop. It’s a curiosity that might not appeal to everyone. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

87 Umani Ronchi 2010 San Lorenzo (Rosso Conero). San Lorenzo opens with bright cher-

ry fruit and blueberry with subtle background notes of almond paste and dried tobacco. Overall, this clean and fresh red wine would pair with roast chicken or turkey. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Fazi Battaglia 2011 Rosso Conero. This Rosso Conero (mostly Montepulciano with

a small element of Sangiovese) proves to be a simple and fresh option that would work with pasta or chicken roast. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Umani Ronchi 2011 Serrano (Rosso Conero). This blend of Montepulciano (85%)

and Sangiovese is perky and clean with a nice touch of acidity beyond forest fruit, cherry and light shadings of

WineMag.com | 57

exotic spice. It’s solid, simple and easy-drinking. Bed-ford International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

rosso Piceno

87 Saladini Pilastri 2010 Vigna Montepran-done (Rosso Piceno). This red blend from

Central Italy shows thick concentration and an inky dark appearance that is enhanced by ripe aromas of prune, blackberry jam, plum and tobacco. This is a dark, rustic and hearty red wine with a dense, velvety texture. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Saladini Pilastri 2011 Rosso Piceno. This blended red from the little-known Piceno area

of Central Italy offers ripe cherry fruit and prune fol-lowed by a dusty note of Graham cracker or rye bread. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Saladini Pilastri 2010 Montetinello (Ros-so Piceno). From the up-and-coming Rosso

Piceno appellation on the Adriatic coast of Central Italy, this is a thin and informal red wine with fruity tones of strawberry and blueberry in the spotlight. A touch of sweet coffee or mocha appears as a distant accent on the close. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Saladini Pilastri 2010 Piediprato (Rosso Piceno). Perfect for meat dishes or grilled

lamb chops, this is a lush and soft red wine that offers a cheerful and informal personality. Ripe cherry, prune and light spice make for an easy-drinking proposition. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

marche

91 Umani Ronchi 2009 Pelago (Marche). Call it a “superMarche” wine. The blend is 50%

Cabernet Sauvignon with 40% Montepulciano and 10% Merlot. It offers deep intensity with floral, almost pot-pourri-like tones of dried rose backed by cherry, spice and touches of chocolate fudge. It’s plush and velvety with medium intensity on the mid-palate. Bedford In-ternational. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 Oasi degli Angeli 2008 Kupra Grenache (Marche). Made with Bordò (a biotype of Gr-

enache) in limited case production, Kupra is a special wine that is clearly designed to showcase the potential of winemaking in the Marche, Central Italy. The wine is crisp, clean and elegant with a long assembly of aromas that span from cherry and cinnamon to crushed white stone and white pepper. The close is smooth and ele-gant. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $230

88 Saladini Pilastri 2010 Pregio del Conte (Marche). Dark, sweet fruit notes of prune,

plum and rum cake open the nose of this blended red from the Marche in Central Italy. Plush, soft blackberry

and a touch of chocolate appear on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Oasi degli Angeli 2009 Kurni Montepul-ciano (Marche). It’s a little hard to get past

the cooked fruit nuances that hit the nose in a power-ful and determined manner. Dark, inky concentration is followed by jammy cherry, sweet jam with a touch of smoked bacon. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $100

84 Canti NV Sangiovese (Marche). Thin cher-ry and easy fruit segue to slightly herbal tones

of rosemary and sage. This low key Sangiovese would wash down nicely with a plate of grilled sausage. Pres-tige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

montePulciano d’aBruzzo

91 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2006 Donna Ernes-tina 48 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here

is a great achievement for lovers of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Dark and thickly extracted, this hearty ex-pression opens with an inky dark appearance and lush aromas of black fruit, plum, spice and chocolate fudge. There’s balance and intensity here with enough power and personality to recall the rustic and mountainous re-gion of Abruzzo in Central Italy. Hold five more years. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $53

90 Emidio Pepe 2001 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Emidio Pepe shows excellent re-

sults with the 2001 vintage of his landmark Montep-ulciano d’Abruzzo. Made according to rigorous organ-ic principles, the wine shows dark fruit and blackberry with bold leather and tobacco at the back. The tannins are polished and tight but the wine still shows more years of aging potential ahead. Polaner Selections. Cel-lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $105

90 Talamonti 2011 Tre Saggi (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Tre Saggi (“three wise men”) is a

plush and rich, oak-driven Montepulciano designed by an Italian winemaker who is an absolute expert on bar-rel aging and oak toast. Dark chocolate, spice, clove and blackberry are presented in an incredibly soft and inte-grated fashion. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Torre Raone 2007 Terre dei Vestini San Zopito (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This

is a lovely wine made from the Montepulciano grape that opens with inky dark concentration and bold notes of black fruit, prune and exotic spice. In the mouth, it shows a rich, soft texture with chocolate fudge on the finish. Antares. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $34

89 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2006 Antrum (Mon-tepulciano d’Abruzzo). Antrum is a hugely

bold and masculine wine that won’t appeal to everyone. The appearance is inky black and the bouquet shows

prune, toasted spice and leather. The tannins are sharp and slightly astringent despite the many years of bottle aging that have already occurred. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $53

88 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus (Montep-ulciano d’Abruzzo). Divus shows nice full-

ness and ripeness with black fruit and cardamom spice. There’s a touch of bitter almond that will soften when paired with meat and gravy sauce or cheese and bacon quiche. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

88 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Donna Ernes-tina 18 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This

fresh and youthful expression of Montepulciano shows a very nice and proper side of the grape. The wine is easy and genuine overall with just enough complexity to keep the palate entertained. Bold cherry and black-berry is segued by bitter chocolate and light shadings of spice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

88 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2007 Riserva (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This plush

Montepulciano is aged 15 months in oak barrel to de-liver nicely executed tones of spice and chocolate at the back of blackberry and bold cherry. There is a touch of bitter fruit on the close that will pair next to cheesy lasa-gna. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 San Lorenzo 2008 Escol Riserva (Mon-tepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane).

Escol Riserva shows tight and astringent oak tannins that need another two or three years to soften. Bold wood notes of sweet vanilla and spice elevate this wine in terms of intensity and overall richness and come just shy of eclipsing the cherry fruit richness. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

87 Barba 2009 Vignafranca (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

shows a juicy, rich feeling with bold cherry fruit, black-berry and a touch of bitter chocolate. It’s a broad, heavy wine with ripe intensity and thick texture. Pair it with rustic, hearty country foods. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Emidio Pepe 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Emidio Pepe is an iconic leader of

the organic and natural wine movement in Italy. This meaty Montepulciano d’Abruzzo shows some aromas of rubber and Band-Aid followed by polished cherry fruit. A soft and velvety mouthfeel is followed by cured meat and bresaola. Polaner Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $78

87 San Lorenzo 2010 Castronovo (Montep-ulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulciano Cas-

tronovo is a soft and layered wine with strata of black cherry, chocolate, spice and tobacco. The wine is loaded up with wood spice aromas followed by thick density on the close. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA


buyingguide87 San Lorenzo 2009 Oinos (Montepulcia-

no d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane). Aged 18 months in barrique, Oinos opens with a crisp and snap-py quality of berry fruit followed by clean lines, good acidity and light spice shadings. Bitter chocolate and cherry liqueur appear on the close. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Talamonti 2011 Modà (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s an excellent value from

Central Italy. This plush and rich Montepulciano shows soft fruit and cherry surrounded by very spicy and sa-vory notes of nutmeg, cardomam and turmeric. It would pair nicely with meat sauce, ground beef or meatloaf. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Umani Ronchi 2011 Montipagano (Mon-tepulciano d’Abruzzo). This expression of

Montepulciano opens with a good deal of spice and chocolate backed by cherry and plum. The tones are simple and well-defined, making this a great value wine for homemade meat sauce and pasta. Bedford Interna-tional. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2011 Ancilla (Mon-tepulciano d’Abruzzo). Ancilla is a rustic and

raw expression of Montepulciano with a point of dried apple skin followed by bright cherry and raspberry. The mouthfeel is thick and chewy with bright acidity on the close. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Natale Verga 2010 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Cardomam seed and Indian spice

give this wine a sassy and exotic personality. There’s also plenty of plush fruit here as well followed by dry notes of crushed mineral at the back. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento (Mon-tepulciano d’Abruzzo). For full review see

page 15. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 San Lorenzo 2010 Sirio (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Sirio is a perfect pizza wine espe-

cially if that pie has savory toppings like sausage or spicy pepperoni on it. The wine is aged 12 months in large oak casks for extra softness and a subtle touch of wood spice beyond the bright blackberry and sweet cherry fruit. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 San Lorenzo 2009 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Thin, bright and easy-going, this

food friendly Montepulciano offers immediate tones of cherry and blackberry followed by a mild and gentle mouthfeel. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Umani Ronchi 2010 Jorio (Montepulci-ano d’Abruzzo). Perfect for wood fired flat-

bread or bruschetta with thick slices of prosciutto, this bright Italian red is redolent of cherry, blackberry and

a touch of bitter almond on the close. Bedford Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Umani Ronchi 2011 Podere (Montepulci-ano d’Abruzzo). This great value wine opens

with ripe fruit tones and blackberry followed by leather, spice and bitter almond. It’s a correct wine with fun and informal flair making it perfect for pizza or take-out din-ners. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Bosco dei Cirmioli 2010 Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s an easy

and bright Montepulciano with sharp aromas of white cherry, forest floor and crushed mineral. It would wash down with a heaping plate of pasta. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Canti 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This is an easy and thin wine with low aromatic

intensity and simple elements of fresh fruit and cherry. The one-diminutional mouthfeel is soft and short. Pres-tige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondineto (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Rondineto is a

sharp and thorny wine with strange aromas of pickled fruit, green olive or caper. The mouthfeel is thin and crisp. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

82 Barba 2010 Colle Morino (Montepulcia-no d’Abruzzo). Here’s a strange expression

of Montepulciano that shows slight volatility with ap-ple skin and cucumber aromas followed by a flat, but smooth mouthfeel. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

montefalco

91 Còlpetrone 2006 Gold (Montefalco Sa-grantino). Gold shows unexpected sophis-

tication for the otherwise overtly bold and gregarious Sagrantino grape. Those prickly tannins you recognize from the variety are wrapped by layers of spice, cured meat and dried berry fruit. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $119

90 Perticaia 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino. Thanks to the super tight and astringent tannins

that are present in the Sagrantino grape, you’ll want to pair this Umbrian red with succulent steak or a thick slab of aged pecorino. Powerful and bold, it delivers hearty aromas of exotic spice and dark fruit followed by rock-firm structure. BelVino LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Perticaia 2009 Montefalco Rosso. You can recognize the Sagrantino grape instantly, even

when it is present in small quantities. This Montefalco Rosso is comprised of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Colorino and shows a dark color with rich ber-

ry and spice aromas. The fresh acidity would pair with pasta with cheese or cream. BelVino LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Perticaia 2009 Riserva (Montefalco Ros-so). Here’s a pretty blend of Sangiovese (70%),

Sagrantino and Colorino that is noticeable because of the smooth and seamless manner in which these three grapes interact. Bold cherry fruit, blackberry and spice make up the bouquet that is followed by a slightly gritty, but firm mouthfeel. BelVino LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Tabarrini 2008 Campo alla Cerqua (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). This is a bold and thick-

ly structured Sagrantino that has all its cards in place hold for a slightly disjointed note on the bouquet. The aromas are raw and intense and those bright cherry and spice elements seem to compete strongly against each other. Campo alla Cerqua is aged three years in large oak casks. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $68

89 Tabarrini 2008 Colle Grimaldesco (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). This full and generous

red wine from Umbria is aged 18 months in casks, 18 months in small barrel and 18 months in the bottle be-fore its release. All this to soften the notoriously hard tannins of the Sagrantino grape. That firm structure is still very apparent and the wine ends with cherry, spice, and bold, super-ripe raspberry. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

88 Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino. Bright cherry fruit and cassis open the bouquet

of this hearty Sagrantino. At the back are savory tones of cured meat, leather and tobacco followed by firm tan-nins. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

88 Tabarrini 2009 Montefalco Rosso. This Rosso represents a blend of Sangiovese (60%)

with equal parts Sagrantino and Barbera. The wine of-fers meats and chewy cherry flavors with accents of spice and leather followed by a rich, velvety texture. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $29

87 Còlpetrone 2010 Montefalco Rosso. The blend here is Sangiovese (70%), Sagrantino and

Merlot and the wine opens with an inky dark appear-ance followed by bulky tones of black cherry, cola and spice. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Tabarrini 2006 Colle alle Macchie (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). A touch of strawberry

jam at the outset suggests that the fruit came out of the vineyard a little on the overripe side. Plum, cherry and blackberry preserves are backed by spice and rock sol-id astringency that is characteristic of Sagrantino. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $77

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umBria

88 Castello di Montegiove 2008 Elicius (Um-bria). This red blend from Umbria offers a dec-

adent bouquet that consists of rich chocolate and bright cherry intensity. The wine is smooth and chewy with a plush, velvety texture. Leojami Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Barbi 2011 Streppaticcio (Umbria). Strep-paticcio is 60-40 Montepulciano and Sangio-

vese with simple fruit tones followed by slight accents of white mushroom, crushed mineral, black olive and ca-per. It ends with smooth richness. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Barbi 2009 Il Ruspo Sangiovese (Um-bria). A distant touch of volatility opens the

wine, giving it a bright aromatic lift or buoyancy. Al-though those apple skin aromas could worsen with time, the wine tastes pretty good now thanks to the fresh acid-ity and its lively, almost nervous personality. Drink im-mediately. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

85 Barbi 2008 Pojo del Ruspo Sangiovese (Umbria). Pojo del Ruspo is a mild and thin

Sangiovese with sour cherry and plum at the back. The wine is well suited to very informal occasions. Uva Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

lazio

90 Falesco 2009 Montiano Merlot (Lazio). Montiano is one of Italy’s iconic expressions of

Merlot made by Riccardo Cotarella and his family. The wine is richly textured and soft with focused aromas of black cherry, espresso bean, black olive and soft suede. Despite the obvious heft and density of the mouth-feel, there’s just enough acidity to energize the palate. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Cantine Lupo 2010 Syranto Syrah (Lazio). The winemaking efforts of Lazio (the

region that houses the Italian capital, Rome) are slowly being noticed thanks to an admittedly small group of quality-minded producers. This Syrah shows ripe fruit and soft roundness with elements of prune, coffee and cherry liqueur. Enoclassica Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Cantine Lupo 2010 Primolupo Merlot (Lazio). Here’s an easy-going Merlot from

Lazio in Central Italy that doles out pretty aromas of cherry, prune and black plum. The wine is smooth and one-dimensional on the finish. Try it with pasta or pizza. Enoclassica Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Rubillo Cesa-nese d’Affile (Lazio). This bright and fresh

Cesanese opens with ripe raspberry and berry fruit fol-lowed by a fresh, but short-lived finish. The wine would

pair perfectly with toasted country bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled in olive oil. Tosco Wines. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Principe Pallavicini 2010 Syrah (Lazio). A pretty Syrah from Lazio, this fruit forward wine

offers cherry, prune, spice and leather aromas. Dark plum flavors are pushed forward over the palate thanks to the wine’s soft consistency. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22

85 Trappolini 2010 Cenereto (Lazio). Cenere-to is a 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Montep-

ulciano that shows a thin, streamlined personality with bright accents of cherry and blackberry followed by to-bacco and toasted espresso bean. The mouthfeel is flat and waxy. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Villa Gianna 2010 Vigne del Borgo Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Lazio). This is a ripe and

slightly jammy expression of Cabernet Sauvignon with tones of strawberry and raspberry back by a lush, soft mouthfeel. There is a chewy quality to the finish. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Villa Gianna 2009 Barriano (Lazio). Bar-riano is a rosemary green and slightly vegetal

blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that is bal-anced out by a good dose of plump red cherry in the mouth. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Trappolini 2008 Paterno Sangiovese (Lazio). This Sangiovese from Lazio shows ripe

aromas of sweet raspberry jam and strawberry followed by thick heaviness or waxiness on the finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

other red wines

90 Talamonti 2009 Kudos (Colline Pescare-si). Kudos is an oak-driven blend of Montepul-

ciano and Merlot that delivers lush richness and mod-ern tones of black fruit, chocolate, cinnamon spice and clove. The close is soft, long and velvety. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Manaresi 2010 Controluce (Colli Bolog-nesi). Controluce (or “backlight” in Italian)

boasts a cool cut-out label and equally pleasing quality on the inside of the bottle. Soft spice, blackberry and bright cherry make their mark and segue to a lush and soft texture in the mouth. Mucci Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Celli 2010 Bron & Rusèval (Romagna). This 60-40 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet

from Central Italy opens with a pretty quality of fruit that shows bold extraction and still-young tannins with an astringent bite at the end. The bouquet is charac-terized by red fruit, spice and leather. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 La Tosa 2009 Luna Selvatica Cabernet Sauvignon (Colli Piacentini). Luna Selvat-

ica (“wild moon”) is an easy and straightforward expres-sion of Cabernet Sauvignon that shows dark fruit, cola, licorice and a touch of toasted spice. In the mouth, the wine shows alcoholic power and some grittiness on the finish. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

86 Bonfiglio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Col-li Bolognesi). This wine has shown impres-

sive results for this price category in the past. The 2009 edition, however, shows a mature and savory side with leather, cured meat, tobacco and cola. The mouthfeel is thin and not particularly persistent or intense. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $15

86 Castello di Montegiove 2009 Mimoso (Orvieto). From the Rosso Orvietano appella-

tion in Central Italy, this red blend opens with easy fruit tones of cherry and forest fruit followed by light spice shadings. It would make a great pairing next to grilled pork chops. Leojami Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Castello di Montegiove 2010 Gatto Gatto (Orvieto). Sometimes you need a light and re-

freshing red wine to serve with burgers or franks. This informal wine from Umbria shows an easy bouquet that is characterized by black fruit, bacon and cured meat. Leojami Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2010 Rondineto Pinot Nero (Colli Aprutini). This is a vegetal

and slightly thorny expression of Pinot Nero that shows the small berry nuances that are characteristic of the va-rietal followed by tar and licorice. The wine is aged only in stainless steel to maintain its overall freshness. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Villa Gianna 2011 Nobilvite (Circeo). No-bilvite (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) of-

fers slightly disjointed aromas of black fruit and prune backed by green olive and caper. There’s a touch of sourness on the otherwise short finish. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

80 Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondineto Merlot (Colli Aprutini). There’s a thorny, al-

most raw quality of fruit here that is backed by a touch of dill weed and black tar. It feels tart and slightly bitter on the close. First Tier Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

lamBrusco

85 Medici Ermete NV I Quercioli Secco (Lambrusco Reggiano). Lambrusco I Quer-

cioli opens with a dark ruby color and pink foam that fizzes when the wine is poured into the glass. This is a dry bubbly red wine that shows the perky effervescence


buyingguideand acidity to pair with buttery pasta or cheesy tortellini dishes. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $13

83 Sei Amici NV Dolce Bianco (Lambrus-co dell’Emilia). Although this wine is called

“Dolce Bianco” it is indeed a dark red sparkling wine. It opens with an inky ruby color and bitter aromas of cher-ry, blackberry and cassis fruit. There’s a touch of sweet-ness on the close with foamy bubbles as well. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 8% Price: $7

83 Sei Amici NV Dolce Rosso (Lambrusco dell’Emilia). A touch of bitter fruit and dried

apple skin emerges from the bouquet at first and is fol-lowed by dark mocha and jammy blackberry fruit. The wine is sweet, chewy and rich in the mouth. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 8% Price: $7

82 Quarticello NV Ferrando (Lambrusco dell’Emilia). Part of the natural wine move-

ment, this frizzy Lambrusco opens with a dark rasp-berry color and easy aromas of cassis, sour cherry and chopped mint. The foamy close is easy and thin. Savio Soares Selections. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $21

provence rosés

côtes de Provence sainte-victoire

91 Domaine Houchart 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). A beautifully

balanced wine, crisp and rich at the same time. It has the freshest red berry fruits that go right through the spicy texture, giving intense full fruitiness. Worth aging this wine for a few months. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Gassier 2012 Château Gassier Sélec-tion Parcellaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence

Sainte-Victoire). There is just a touch of smokiness in this rich, full wine that’s definitely made for partnering with food. There are red plums, some tannic texture as well as citrus and final crisp, fresh acidity. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Mas de Cadenet 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Celebrating

200 years under the same ownership, this ripe, full and fruity wine is all that a Provence rosé should be. It’s dry, rounded yet with a great line of red berry acidity. There is just a touch of spice to give a final lift. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Château Maupague 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Vineyards

around Mont Sainte-Victoire have their own appella-tion, accorded because of the extra ripeness the wines often have. This ripe, full, strawberry flavored wine has

a fine balance between its crisp acidity and the ripe, warm texture. It could age for a few more months. Frank Johnson Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Château Coussin 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Full, rich and

fruity, this is a ripe wine. It is finely poised between this richness and a more delicate, fruity character, lively and bright. Age for a few months, although you can drink the wine now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

86 Mas de Cadenet 2012 Arbaude Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). A

crisp, clean, deliciously fruity wine. It’s light, fragrant, touched with red berries and attractive acidity. There’s no complexity here, just pure fruitiness and freshness. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

côtes de Provence

93 Château d’Esclans 2011 Garrus Rosé (Côtes de Provence). For full review see

page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $90

92 Château Sainte Roseline 2012 La Cha-pelle de Sainte Roseline Rosé (Côtes de

Provence). The top cuvée from Sainte Roseline, this is a wood-aged wine. That gives a strongly spicy charac-ter on top of the sophisticated fruit. The wine is smooth and complex, with red plums and fragrant acidity going well with the elegant aftertaste. Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Château d’Esclans 2011 Les Clans Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The extra year gives

this wine quite different flavors from the forward fruiti-ness of Provence rosé. It now has a richer, more com-plex character and weight of ripe fruit, caramel and va-nilla flavors. This is a serious, food friendly rosé. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

91 Château les Valentines 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The fuller rosé of the two made

at Les Valentines, this is rich, balanced and dense in character. That makes it a serious wine, its acidity finely integrated into the red plum and orange zest flavors. It’s a perfect food rosé. Potomac Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

91 Château Réal Martin 2012 Grande Cu-vée Rosé (Côtes de Provence). With just

the merest hint of rosé color, this beautifully dry wine has delicious acidity, refreshing red berry fruits as well as a fine depth of ripe fruit flavors. It tastes young, and would benefit from a few months more in bottle. Wine-berry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Château d’Esclans 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full-bodied and richly fruity wine.

It has good depth of flavor from the zest and red ber-

ry fruits. They give a nervy, almost-mineral poise to the wine. Warmth and ripeness come in at the end. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Château de Pourcieux 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full, rich wine, both fruity and

ripely textured. The wine has weight, concentrated red fruits, with a touch of citrus. Typically dry, its richness makes it seem soft, rounded and for food. Baron Fran-cois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Château des Demoiselles 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). As fresh as it comes,

this is crisp and clean rosé, ready for summer aperitifs. Bright red berries cut through a warmer texture and bring acidity with them. There’s an attractive lively fin-ish. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

90 Château la Mascaronne 2012 La Mas-caronne Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A

vibrant, fruity wine that offers great ripe red fruits as well as refreshing acidity. It has an edge of vanilla that smoothes the wine out. Classic dry summer rosé. Integ-rity Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

90 Château Léoube 2012 Secret de Léoube Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The top rosé

cuvée from Léoube is full and rich. Find its generous red plum and berry fruits well encased in a complex structure. A touch of vanilla goes well with the final acidity. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

90 Château Roubine 2012 Inspire Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Rich and complex,

this is a densely flavored rosé. It has spice and tangerine orange zest as well as a more complex red pepper and red currant character. It is a wine for fish or ratatouille. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Domaine les Fouques 2012 Cuvée de l’Aubigue Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A

full, earthy, warm wine that has a strong herbal charac-ter as well as rich caramel and red fruits. It has a rare density for a rosé, textured and ripe. Try aging this wine for a few months. Chambers Street Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

90 Domaine Sainte-Marie 2012 Vie Vité Ex-traordinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence).

Here is a bright, very textured wine. It has a bright, tangy character bringing out fennel as well as red berry flavors. Crisp and tight, this is a great food rosé. Tur-quoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

90 Domaine Sorin 2012 Terra Amata Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Rich, full tasting wine

from the Sorin family, with smoothly ripe red berry fruits. There’s an attractive orange zest character that

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gives piquancy to this great food rosé. Grape Expecta-tions (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

90 Domaines Ott 2012 Clos Mireille Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this

is a tight, caramel and red fruit flavored wine. It has tang and a textured character that suggests a light amount of tannin. With this nervy, mineral character, the wine could do with some aging. so wait a few months. Mai-sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $46

89 Château de Saint-Martin 2012 Grand Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A

ripe and balanced wine with attractive, forward red fruits, laced with apple and spiced with lime juice. The wine is full in the mouth with a hint of ginger and finish-ing with light acidity. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Château les Valentines 2012 La Ca-price de Clémentine Rosé (Côtes de

Provence). A deliciously crisp wine, the acidity streak-ing through the red berry fruits leaving a refreshing character that balances the touch of spice. Fresh, fruity and ready to drink. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Domaines Ott 2012 Château de Selle Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light, fruity,

very crisp in character, this is an apple and citrus driven wine as much as red fruits. There is an attractive, exotic touch of pomegranate fruits that add an extra dimension to this lively, fresh wine. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $46

89 Gassier 2012 Château Beaulieu Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Extra fruity, packed

with strawberry and crisp red currants flavors, this is all freshness, richness and clean acidity. It has some weight but this just emphasizes the fruitiness. Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Les Pap-illes Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A rich and

food friendly style of rosé, its initial red fruitiness hiding a more serious, textured character of minerality and el-egance. It would be worth aging this fine rosé for a few months. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Château d’Esclans 2012 Whispering An-gel Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A delight-

fully clean and fruity wine, the epitome of Provence rosé. It has fresh acidity, crisp lemon and red currant fruit and just a light sprinkling of spice. Shaw-Ross In-ternational Importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château des Demoiselles 2012 Charme des Demoiselles Rosé (Côtes de

Provence). Soft and rounded, this is a light and easy wine. It has fresh citrus and berry fruits that dance eas-ily together. Acidity gives a refreshing quality, while

spice adds a fine, warmer touch. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

88 Château l’Afrique 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Crisp and fruity, this is a classic

rosé. It shows a lightness that comes from the delicately handled fruits, giving gentle berry flavors, bright acidity and a textured aftertaste. Cru Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château la Gordonne 2011 La Chapelle Gordonne Rosé (Côtes de Provence).

The prestige cuvée from La Gordonne is full and rich, packed with raspberry and red plum fruit. As a balance, there is a taut, crisper side to the wine, leaving a bright lemon zest aftertaste. Vranken America. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Château Léoube 2012 Rosé de Léoube Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Ripe red fruits

in a warm, soft texture. It’s a finely balanced wine that hits all the buttons with its fruity character, touch of spice and fresh acidity to finish. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Château Réal Martin 2012 Perle de Rosé Rosé (Côtes de Provence). From the for-

mer castle of the Counts of Provence, this is an in-tensely fruity wine, full of strawberry, orange zest and light spice. It is fragrant, fresh wine, lifted attractively at the end with bright acidity. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Domaine Jacourette 2012 L’Ange et Luce Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Bright, light and

totally fresh, this is a delightful rosé. It has wild straw-berry flavors, laced with acidity. There’s some spice as well, giving a balanced wine. It is fine both as an aperitif and with food. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Château la Tour de l’Evêque 2012 Pétale de Rosé Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A full

and ripe rosé from the Sumeire family which owns a number of Provence estates. This wine has freshness along with its rich character, strawberry fruit and acidity well in balance. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Château Roubine 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Crisp, tautly textured wine domi-

nated by its zesty acidity and raspberry flavors. The wine is clean and fruity. It is an immediate hit with its lively final freshness. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Château Sainte Roseline 2012 Cu-vée Lampe de Méduse Rosé (Côtes de

Provence). Round and soft, this is a generous, full-bodied rosé. It has the right fruitiness and acidity al-though its main thrust is toward weight and richness. Given this character, this is a rosé for food. Vidalco In-ternational, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Château Thuerry 2012 Le Château Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light and fruity, with

a touch of pepper and spice, this is a immediately attrac-tive, red-fruited wine. It has enough crisp freshness as well as richness to go with food. The aftertaste empha-sizes both spice and fruit. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Estandon 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is on the soft side for rosés,

a warm wine with a sense of Mediterranean herbs and sun. It has light red fruits, spice and great final acid-ity. Screwcap. Southern Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Gassier 2012 Miradou en Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Fruity, light-hearted

wine that pushes forward its red fruits, its crisp acid-ity and its bright texture. There is a dancing character to this delicious, refreshing wine. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château Saint-Pierre 2012 Tradition Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A fruity, straw-

berry flavored wine with some depth and structure. It has richness as well as a fresh citrus character. It could benefit from some aging although it’s certainly ready to drink this summer. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Xavier Flouret 2012 Nationale 7 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Made at Provence

classed growth Château Rimauresq, this soft and full rosé has attractive red and citrus fruits, a hint of pepper and herbs. It’s warm and ready to drink. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

86 Château Coussin 2012 La Croix du Prieur Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The second

wine of Château Coussin, owned by the Sumeire family, is from a parcel of vines in the main vineyard. It gives a rounded wine, soft, red fruited, crisp and clean. A deli-cious aperitif style. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Château Léoube 2011 Rouge de Léoube Rhône-style Red Blend (Côtes de

Provence). Solid and tannic with a stalky character both from young fruit and acidity. There is structure, black currant fruits and dense, dry tannins. The wine needs to age for at least 3–4 years. Classic Wine Im-ports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

86 Château Sainte Roseline 2012 Perle de Roseline Rosé (Côtes de Provence). De-

liciously attractive wine, crisp and clean as possible. It has a light caramel edge along with a more fruity aspect. To finish, the wine is light and bright. Vidalco Interna-tional, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Domaine de la Sanglière 2012 Breezette Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Bright and crisp

with just a touch of vanilla along with the more citrus


buyingguidecharacter. The wine has red berry fruits, a light struc-ture, fragrant, ready to drink. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Domaine Houchart 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Caramel and spice flavored that is

full-bodied and rich. With its weight, this red plum and ripe strawberry flavored wine is for food, dry and finish-ing with just the right amount of acidity. Screwcap. Da-vid Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Sainte-Marie 2012 Vie Vité Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full and rounded, this

is a soft wine, more suited to food than as an aperitif. The apple and red currant fruits are textured and spiced with lemon zest and mandarin orange flavors, finishing with some richness. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Gassier 2012 Ormilles Rosé (Côtes de Provence). An attractively fresh rosé with no

complexity but crisp pleasure from the wild strawberry fruits and light acidity. Enjoy as an aperitif. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Barton & Guestier 2011 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Fruity, crisp, this is a clas-

sic Provence rosé. It is packed with fragrant raspberry fruits, bright acidity and a bright, warm, sun-drenched aftertaste. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Château la Gordonne 2011 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full, while still crisp, this

strawberry and orange flavored rosé is ripe, dry with a touch of pepper and a rounded, smooth character. Screwcap. Vranken America. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Gassier 2012 Sables d’Azur Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Simple, fruity wine, crisp,

clean, laden with red fruits and touched by vanilla. The wine is light, fragrant and totally ready to drink. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 L’Amphore de Provence 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Living up to its name,

this wine comes in a bottle shaped like an ancient am-phora. Its fruit is more modern, clean and fresh with just a hint of aromatic spices and orange zest. The af-tertaste has a touch of vanilla. Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The lightest of three

rosés from Gueissard, this is fresh and crisply fragrant, going toward a more citrus fruitiness with hedgerow fruits and lively final acidity. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Barton & Guestier 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Fresh and fruity, light and fra-

grant, a wine with citrus flavors over red currants, spoilt by a metallic aftertaste. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

83 Château Montaud 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Caramel and soft fruits in a wine

that seems to be missing the zesty, crisp element. The wine feels flat. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

82 Bailli de Provence 2012 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The wine seems flat. It has the red

fruits and acidity, but they seem flabby and dull. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

coteaux d’aix-en-Provence

92 Château Vignelaure 2012 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A complex, rich and

ripe wine. It shows both a tannic edge and full red fruit flavors. With acidity cutting through, this is finely bal-anced, a delicious and serious wine that would benefit from a few more months in bottle. Blue Coast Interna-tional. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

90 Château de Calavon 2012 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Ripe and fruity, this is a

concentrated rosé that shows its origins in the rich ter-roir of Aix-en-Provence. That said, all the right acidity and citrus flavors are there balancing the generous red plum fruits. This is a wine for food rather than an aperi-tif. A Tres Vite. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château Vignelaure 2012 La Source Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). The

second wine from Château Vignelaure, a vast estate near Aix-en-Provence, this is a textured, ripe wine. It has red fruits but also a great tang of orange and lemon zest that gives it a delicious, refreshing lift. Blue Coast International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Commanderie de la Bargemone 2012 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Live-

ly, crisp wine from an estate founded by the Knights Templar in the 13th century. It is full of delicious red fruits, light acidity and a nervy, mineral aftertaste. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

coteaux varois en Provence

87 Château Routas 2012 Rosé (Coteaux Va-rois en Provence). Full wine, soft on the pal-

ate, its berry fruits ripe and forward. It has some weight although the acidity is as fresh as it can be. The after-taste is clean, clear refreshing. Screwcap. Routas USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Gassier 2012 Abbaye Saint-Hilaire Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence). Varois is a

small enclave surrounded by Côtes de Provence vine-yards. This wine, with its softness, touches of vanilla as well as the proper rich red fruits, is a gentle rosé, easy and ready to drink. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

86 Estandon 2012 Terres de Saint-Lou-is Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence).

Crisply light and fresh, this is a bright and clean wine. It’s just touched by vanilla that goes well with the re-freshing acidity. No complexity, just easy drinking. Screwcap. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

Bandol

92 Domaines Ott 2012 Château Romassan Rosé (Bandol). With some extra weight, this

is a solid, red currant and berry driven wine. Its fruit is right up front, backed by a mineral acidity that cuts through the richness. It’s definitely a food wine, and equally an impressive wine that needs to age for up to a year. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $46

90 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Cuvée G Rosé (Bandol). Full-bodied wine, with tex-

tured and layering tannins as well as red fruits. The wine has weight, a complex herbal and spice character as well as final fruitiness and tense acidity. A wine for aging over six months to a year. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

provence red and white wines

coteaux d’aix-en-Provence reds

92 Château Vignelaure 2005 Red (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Originally planted by a

Bordeaux grower, Vignelaure makes its top red from Cabernet Sauvignon with the addition of Grenache and Syrah. This now mature wine is a impressive, ripe and rich, with mushroom, spice and a juicy character. Drink now, or age for a few more years. Blue Coast Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Château de Calavon 2009 Tradition de Calavon (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).

An earthy aroma with rich black fruits give a wine that is full-bodied, ripe and soft. It has a warm, juicy charac-ter, a dry core surrounded by fresh berry fruits. Not for aging, but open while firm now. Marsalle/Stoler Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Château de Calavon 2009 La Réserve (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Spicy, minty,

wood-aged wine that shows more wood than fruit. It does have a rich character from black plum and berry

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flavors so the wine will become better integrated. So wait for 2–3 years. A Tres Vite. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Château de Calavon 2007 Red (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A mature wine that has

austerity and a severe countenance that is comes from the dry tannins. Secondary fruit flavors are now domi-nating, giving some juiciness but also a leathery texture. Drink now or over the next few months. A Tres Vite. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

côtes de Provence

89 Château Léoube 2010 Les Forts de Léoube (Côtes de Provence). Complex and

powerful, this wood-aged red has both elegance and density. Its black plum and blackberry fruits are spiced with an herbal character that gives an edge to the acid-ity in the aftertaste. Keep for 4–5 years. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $32

87 Château la Mascaronne 2009 La Mas-caronne (Côtes de Provence). Rich and

dense, this is a ripe, wood-aged wine, now showing ma-turity. It has weight, red berry fruits and a firmer struc-ture of tannins. It is ready to drink, but could age an-other year. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

85 Château Roubine 2011 Red (Côtes de Provence). Tight and stalky wine, the black

currant, spice and tobacco characters all pushed to the front. It has a severe, more mineral style that shows acidity as well as lean fruit. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

84 Château Thuerry 2010 Le Château Blanc (Côtes de Provence). Somewhat severe with

a stalky fruit character that shows tannins as much as black currant fruits. Spice and a hard edge suggest a wine that is never going to be ripe. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19

84 Domaine les Fouques 2010 Cuvée de l’Aubigue (Côtes de Provence). Firmly

tannic wine with blackberry fruits and a woody, stalky character. The hard-edged and spicy fruit is on the green side. Chambers Street Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2011 Red (Côtes de Provence). A stalky, herbal wine,

its wood and black currant fruits are overlaid with a tight, dry tannic character and intense acidity. It is young and will soften, but that acidity is sure to remain. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

other red wines

91 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2010 Cuvée G (Bandol). Big, bold, tannic wine, very spicy

and leathery in character. Dark plums and a solid, chunky character are given a further boost by the dense and concentrated texture, and spice and acidity. The wine needs aging for 5–6 years more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Château Thuerry 2008 L’Exception (Co-teaux de Verdon). With vines in the Verdon

region in the north of Provence, Château Thuerry has produced an exemplary Bordeaux blend, firmly tannic and packed with black currant fruit. It’s ageworthy and worth keeping for a few more years. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

90 Mas de Gourgonnier 2009 Red (Les Baux de Provence). A rich, tight, warm wine from

organic grapes. Red plum, firm tannins and a sophisti-cated feel give this wine both structure, dark fruits and an ageworthy character. This is a fine wine, balanced and with fine acidity. Vintner Select. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

white wines

88 Château Thuerry 2012 Le Château Rouge (Côtes de Provence). A blend of Sémillon,

Ugni Blanc and Rolle, this cool white is deliciously fruity already. It’s soft, rounded, full of lemon and pear flavors, with a fine tang of acidity. Drink now or keep a few months. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

86 Château Roubine 2012 White (Côtes de Provence). Herbaceous in character, this

a crisp, lemon-scented wine, still so young and fresh. With its tangy character, it could well age for several months more. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

86 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 White (Côtes de Provence). A rounded wine,

herbs, spice and yellow fruits bringing out a full and ripe feel. There is an attractive level of acidity that gives the wine a lively feel while not losing sight of a warm, Medi-terranean feel. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

white bordeaux

entre-deux-mers

87 Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. A green, herbal wine,

very crisp, still young with acidity, mineral acidity and a bright, lively aftertaste. The wine is tangy with citrus at the end. Keep for six months to a year. Screwcap. Bay-state Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Château La Rose du Pin 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. Full in style, this is a lemon-scent-

ed, peach-flavored wine. It has some richness to it both from the ripe fruit and the textured acidity that gives a

tight tang to the aftertaste. The needs to age for a year. Screwcap. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Château Rousset-Caillau 2011 Entre-Deux-Mers. A bright, herbaceous and fresh

wine, showing green fruits, lively acidity and and a steely edge that adds a fine texture. House Of Burgun-dy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $14

86 Château Tour de Bonnet 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. Classic, open, herbaceous fruit

flavors with attractive light acidity and a perfumed char-acter from the Muscadelle in the blend. The wine is fruity, crisp citrus and lively final freshness. Screwcap. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15

85 Château Allégret 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. Young, herbaceous wine, very fruity and light-

ly perfumed. It is crisp and delicate, with its citrus and pineapple fruits already lively and fresh. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

Bordeaux Blanc

90 Chateau de Launay 2009 Les Vignes d’Elisa Muscadelle (Bordeaux Blanc). It

must be unique to find any Bordeaux in a Burgundy style bottle. Certainly this ultra-rich wine owes much to Burgundian Chardonnay. But under the sweet fruit, there is no mistaking the Muscadelle perfume and spice that give a bite, a dry, peppery finish and a very different character Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $65

87 Calvet 2012 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). Just bottled when tasted,

this is a wine that needs a few months to come together. Its ripe pear and apricot fruit and dense flavor will offer a full, rounded wine that goes more for a tropical Sauvi-gnon Blanc character. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

87 Château Briot 2012 Bordeaux Blanc. Crisp, lightly herbaceous wine with a delicious

creamy apple and pear character. This is finely balanced with a lively, crisp aftertaste. Screwcap. Jandell Selec-tions. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux Blanc. Rounded wine, showing ripe tropical flavors as

well as a more citrus character. The wine is full, attrac-tively textured with a buttery edge. Spice and green herbs come through to finish. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

85 Château du Pin Franc 2012 Bordeaux Blanc. A simple, youthful white, perfumed

and spicy as well as crisply fruity. From the Entre-deux-Mers region, it is cool, clean, laden with green plums


buyingguideand white currant flavors. For aging over the next few months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Château Fonfroide 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. A round and full flavored wine. It is soft with

apple and pear flavors, lifted by a touch of lemon zest. There is some weight to this ripe, dry, finally crisp wine. Keep for a few more months. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15

84 Calvet 2011 Limited Release Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). Just what the label

says, this is fresh, fruity, simple and attractive Sauvignon Blanc. Lemon, crisp apple peel and fragrant acidity all meld easily together. Screwcap. Advantage Internation-al. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

84 Château d’Haurets 2012 Bordeaux Blanc. Still very young, this is a crisply fresh wine, all

lemon zest and apple skin flavors. There is a young, green element here that needs to soften over the next few months. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Château de Lagarde 2012 Les Hauts de Lagarde (Bordeaux Blanc). Lightly crisp

and herbaceous, this is an attractively youthful and fruity wine. Lemon and crisp pear flavors dominate. Bright and aromatic, it’s ready to drink. Natural Mer-chants LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Château Laubès 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). A bright, herbaceous wine

that is full of citrus and grapefruit flavors. These go with a tangy character, crisp and hinting at black currants and more tropical fruit. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

83 Château la Hargue 2012 Moelleux (Bor-deaux Blanc). Just lightly sweet, this is a curi-

ous wine that is neither one thing or the other. It’s clean, has some peach flavor and light acidity. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

rosés

85 Château de Belcier 2012 Fleurs de Belci-er (Bordeaux Rosé). Full-bodied rosé, giving

plenty of ripe red fruit flavors as well as attractive acid-ity. It’s dry, textured while still fresh and lively. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Calvet 2011 Limited Release Rosé (Bor-deaux Rosé). Light and fruity, a wine with

touches of typical Cabernet Franc perfume. The wine is dry, crisp with raspberry flavors and a spicy, fresh after-taste. Screwcap. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

84 Château d’Haurets 2012 Bordeaux Rosé. Lightly fruity and fresh, a wine that has some

crisp acidity although without much definition. The aftertaste is clean, bringing out attractive citrus and red currant fruits. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Château Ramage la Batisse 2012 La Ro-sée de Ramage (Bordeaux Rosé). There

is a vivid pink color on this caramel and ripe fruit-fla-vored wine. It has weight, probably too much, losing the freshness and acidity. Vanilla and super-ripe strawber-ries dominate. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

83 Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2012 Bordeaux Rosé. Pink in color, this is a full

wine that misses out on freshness. It is clean with ripe strawberry fruits, but it feels fat and heavy. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

82 Château de Piote 2012 Bordeaux Clairet. Bordeaux Claret has a darker color than a rosé,

suggesting more weight. This wine, though, also has a green herbal edge that is less attractive. Stephen Augus-tus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

81 Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux Rosé. Intensely acidic wine, its red fruits and caramel

hidden behind a tart, over-lemoned flavor. For lovers of mouth-shockingly dry rosé. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

red bordeaux

médoc

89 Château le Temple 2009 Médoc. Rich and smooth, this is a good example of the sumptu-

ous 2009 vintage. It is soft, ripe with blackberry and red plum fruits. It is already developing well. It’s a medium-term wine, already juicy and drinkable. Serge Doré Se-lections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $55

88 Château de la Croix 2009 Médoc. A solid, ripe, juicy black fruited wine, delicious already

with its fragrant fruits. It has structure that supports the attractive surface, giving shape to this lightly textured wine. Keep for 4–5 years, but also drink now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

85 Château Magnol 2011 Les Charmes de Magnol (Médoc). The second wine of Châ-

teau Magnol, this is a ripe, smoke and wood flavored wine. It has spice, attractive black currant fruits and some—not too many—firm tannins. With its inherent fruitiness it will be ready to drink this year. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

haut-médoc

91 Château Lestage Simon 2010 Haut-Mé-doc. Dark colored wine, revealing wood aging

both aromatically and to taste. That said, it also has great weight, a powerful and complex wine with its coffee, dried fruit and black plum flavors. It’s an impressive, solid wine that deserves at least seven years’ aging. Ad-vantage International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

90 Château Tourteran 2010 Haut-Médoc. Powerful, concentrated wine, a very solid Cab-

ernet-dominated wine. It has dark tannins, the black currant fruit still hiding in the background. Dark and dense, it’s destined for good aging, at least over the next six years. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Château Ramage la Batisse 2010 R de Ramage (Haut-Médoc). One of the second

wines of Château Ramage la Batisse, this is the better of the two. It shows ripe and juicy black fruits that push through the dense structure to promise a rich future. It’s worth aging this wine for 3–5 years and more. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Château Magnol 2011 Haut-Médoc. Châ-teau Magnol, owned by negociant Barton &

Guestier, has produced a 2011 that is wood-laden at this stage. It boasts tannins, a tight line in black currant fruit, and a dry core of wood. This needs at least three years to round out and soften. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Ramage la Batisse 2010 L’Enclose de Ramage (Haut-Médoc). The

second wine of Château Ramage la Batisse, L’Enclos is ripe and fruity. It has a sense of structure although this is played down by the rich black currant fruits. Acidity cuts through the general richness of this medium-aging wine. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Haut-Médoc. Firmly tannic yet with the potential

of good black currant fruit, this is a fine reflection of the vintage, rich and fruity, layered with considerably fresh acidity. Drink now, or give it a year. Marsalle/Stol-er Company. —R.V. abv: 13.3% Price: $NA

86 Grands Terroirs de France 2009 Haut-Médoc. Lush, full and fruity, here is a gener-

ous, open wine. Its black plum and red berry fruits are right to the fore giving a smooth, rich character. There is a smoky wood taste at the end. Marsalle/Stoler Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Château du Cartillon 2010 Haut-Médoc. While wood aging is an integral part of fine

Bordeaux, with this wine it is just too much. While it is young, the wood, raw and dominant, submerges the fruit to give a wine that is dense, very dry and hard at the

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edges. It’s not likely to ever lose this quality. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

Premieres côtes de Blaye

90 Château Crusquet de Lagarcie 2008 Pre-mieres Côtes de Blaye. Satisfyingly ripe

wine, now approaching maturity. It has just the right weight from the black currant fruits, the more mature leather texture and the firm tannins that give a dry core. The wine could age for several more years, but is ready to drink now. Serge Doré Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Château Moulin de Grillet 2005 Les Ailes du Moulin (Premieres Côtes de Blaye).

Modern style of wine, with hints of polished wood, mint flavors and a strong sense of structure. Along with the blackberry fruit, still showing no signs of age, the wine has concentration and elegance. It’s a wine for more aging over another 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

87 Château Moulin de Grillet 2003 Les Ailes du Moulin (Premieres Côtes de Blaye).

It’s rare to find a 10-year old Bordeaux just arrived in this country. This now mature wine is full and rich, its weight coming from spice and textured tannins that are laced with acidity. It is initially dry, but does open out to give a juicy, if mature, character but is unlikely to age. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

côtes de Bourg

92 Château de la Grave 2010 Caractère (Côtes de Bourg). A rich, velvet textured

wine, full of dense, dusty tannins and sweet black Mer-lot fruits. The wine is concentrated, ripe and powerful, with a dark texture that is both impressive and agewor-thy. Give this wine at least 5–6 years. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

91 Château Tour de Guiet 2010 Grand Vin (Côtes de Bourg). Big, rich, dense wine,

packed with dark tannins and blackberry fruits. The wine has concentration, layering wood aging with youthful acidity that shines through the structure. An impressive wine that needs aging for at least five years. Cav a’Vin. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Château Fougas 2010 Maldoror (Côtes de Bourg). A perfumed wine, dominated by

Merlot. It shows plenty of the structure of 2010, a firm and solid wine, full of oak aging flavors at this young stage. It’s going to be a rich and full wine layered with blackberry fruits as it develops over the next 4–5 years. MacArthur Beverages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Château La Croix-Davids 2010 Côtes de Bourg. Smooth, wood-aged wine that has well-

balanced red fruit flavors to go with the ripe tannins. A touch of mint reveals the new wood in the aging that has produced a fine, rich wine that will age well over the next five years. Pierre Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Château Dupeyrat Plouget 2010 Cru de Plouget (Côtes de Bourg). Stalky wine, its

black currant fruits tight and still developing. It has a juicy character that comes from the intense youth-ful acidity and that will blend over the next 4–5 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Château Tour de Guiet 2010 Excellence (Côtes de Bourg). Structured wine with a se-

vere edge from the dry, concentrated tannins. It’s seri-ous, stalky fruit layered with a more juicy element and tight acidity. The wine does need aging to soften its aus-tere character. Cav a’Vin. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Château Martinat 2010 Côtes de Bourg. Very dark and dense, this is a wine that is domi-

nated by a touch extracted character. It has weight, with the slightest hint of fruit under the dry surface. Choco-late and licorice flavors are prominent at this stage. It will need at least 5–6 years to develop. Moonlight Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Château Laroche Joubert 2010 Côtes de Bourg. Firm, closed wine that exhibits a strong

tannin character. The wine is powerful and dense, its black plum fruits lying under the dry structure. There is a touch of alcohol burn—a shame in an otherwise well-made wine. LVDH USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

saint-émilion

91 Château Laroque 2005 Saint-Émilion. Now developing into an impressive, maturing

wine, this is rich and complex. It has well integrated tannins that bring out sweet acidity, spice and finely lightly roasted coffee. Ready to drink, it should certainly keep for at least six years and probably more. The Wine Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Chateau Peymouton 2010 Saint-Émilion. A powerful, firm wine, very solid and rich. With

red plum and blackberry fruits, dense tannins and a touch of wood aging, the wine shows considerable po-tential. It is already balanced but will benefit from at least six years’ aging. Advantage International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

89 Clos Larcis 2009 Saint-Émilion. Rich, con-centrated wine, with generous fruits and soft

tannins. It has super-ripe black plums, a touch of choco-late and spice from wood aging. Powerful, juicy, fruity,

likely to age well over the medium-term, over the next 3–4 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $125

88 Château Cantin 2010 Saint-Émilion. The wine feels very dense, juicy, dark and concen-

trated. It has a huge feel to it, a powerful wine that will need several years to fully soften and round it. And, At 15.5% alcohol, this is way too heavy for a Bordeaux. Ad-vantage International. —R.V. abv: 15.5% Price: $50

88 Château Chauvin 2011 Vieux Château Chauvin (Saint-Émilion). The second wine

of Château Chauvin is a structured, perfumed wine with its high proportion of Cabernet Franc giving much of its potential richness and spice. The tannins are solid and will always show well as an integral part of this com-plex wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

86 Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Grand Cru (Saint-Émilion). This is super-rich, but

wears its high alcohol lightly. That gives great full fruit, blackberry flavors, a juicy ripe wine that balances the wood and acidity to give fine potential for a year’s time. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

83 Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Saint-Émilion. A stalky wine, its black currant fruit

flavors covered with smoky wood and tough tannins. For a wine in a branded Bordeaux range, it’s remark-ably firm and hard to access. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

castillon côtes de Bordeaux

90 Château de Belcier 2010 B de Belcier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). Belcier is

on the slope that continues east from Saint-Émilion. With this provenance, this single vineyard wine offers rich Merlot to go with the more structured Cabernet fruit. It has weight, the wood well judged and support-ing the ripe fruit flavors. Age this wine for at least five years. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Château de Monbadon 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Structured, concentrat-

ed wine, showing the firm texture of the vintage with firm tannins balancing intense acidity. The wine has power—witness the alcohol—but this is contained in a more elegant texture. Best to age this wine for 4–5 years. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Château de Belcier 2010 Le Pin de Bel-cier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). With

aromas dominated by minty new wood, this is a mod-ern style of wine, the wood on the palate very domi-nant. There is enough black currant fruit to promise a rounding out of what at the moment is a dry, densely


buyingguidestructured wine. Keep for 4–5 years. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

87 Château de Monbadon 2009 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Owned by the Barons of

Montfort, its vineyard has produced a much less rugged wine than the formidable fortress suggests. The black currant flavors are present, along with stalky tannins. There is a smoky, wood element that comes through strongly at the end, so age this wine for 3–4 years. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Château de Monrecueil 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Produced by the wine-

making team of Château de Belcier in Castillon, this is a firmly structured, dry to the core wine. There are hints of ripe and juicy berry fruits to go with the dark tannins and dense texture. It needs several years to age. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Château de Belcier 2010 Les Armoiries de Belcier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux).

From selected parcels, this solid and dark wine has ex-tracted chocolate flavors from an over-enthusiastic use of wood. It’s tough, and hard to see how it can really soften sufficiently to allow the fruit to surface. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Bordeaux

89 Petite Sirène 2010 Bordeaux. Produced by the winemaking team of Château Giscours

in Margaux, this is impressive for a simple Bordeaux. It has weight, rich blackberry fruits, structure and con-centration. It could even age. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Château les Ancres 2010 Bordeaux. A firm, still young wine, wearing its tannins right

up front. The berry and black plum fruits are there in the background along with considerable weight. The wine, rich and full, will develop over the next 2–3 years. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Château Bois Pertuis 2011 Bordeaux. There is obvious wood here, a toasty, dry char-

acter that shows through the fruit. The wine is young and with the sufficient weight of juicy black currant fruit, it should integrate well to give a solid, chunky wine in two years. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Calvet 2010 Réserve (Bordeaux). This is the blended Bordeaux from Calvet, one of the

oldest wine names in the city. It’s full and ripe, a round-ed wine that has good berry fruits as well as a drier, firm-er core. At the end, a more smoky character appears. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Château Saintongey 2010 Vieilles VIgnes (Bordeaux). Rich, wood-aged wine that shows

ripe blackberry juice flavors to balance the firm tannins. It has good depth, structure and weight, a ripe and good value Bordeaux. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Château Tour de Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux. One of the labels from the Bonnet vineyard of

André Lurton, this red follows the approachable, fruity style of these wines. Red berry fruits and soft tannins make it already drinkable. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

85 Château Fonfroide 2010 Bordeaux. Show-ing the structure of the vintage, while missing

some of the flesh. The wine has a dry, firm and tannic core that hides the red fruit flavors. The wine, still on the austere side, will be ready to drink in a year. Advan-tage International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Château Laubès 2011 Bordeaux. The aro-mas are of wood as much as fruit. While the pal-

ate also shows plenty of wood aging flavors, there is also a more floral, red berry fruit character that’s already at-tractive. The acidity at the end gives intense freshness. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Château du Pin Franc 2011 Bordeaux. Light, lean wine, its juicy fruit giving an at-

tractive surface with a soft structure below. The wine is pleasant, fruity, not for aging. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

84 Château Terre Blanque 2011 Bordeaux. Going more for stalky tannins, this is a youthful,

but also austere wine. It has perfumed wood along with hints of black currant tightly encased in a severe outer shell. House Of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Château Allégret 2012 Bordeaux. Very young, fruity wine. The tannins are already soft

and there is stalky black currant acidity that gives the wine a bright freshness. It has no wood and will develop fast. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

Bordeaux suPérieur

87 Château du Bois Chantant 2010 Cuvée Laurence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). A firm

and solid wine, tightly packed with tannins, black berry fruits and a dense structure. Laurence is Laurence Hel-frich whose family owns the chateau. The wine could age for several years, but will be ready to drink in 2014. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Château Lavergne-Dulong 2010 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Austere and firm, this is

still many years from being ready to drink. For now, its potential is apparent in the juicy black fruits, dark tan-nins and solid structure. It has much of the structure of

the vintage, well clothed in fuller fruits. Advantage In-ternational. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Château Roc Meynard 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Although the wood aging shows

strongly at the moment, there is enough weight of ripe black currant fruits to integrate as the wine matures. Then, it will be a firm-though-fruity wine, solid and chunky. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Château Allégret 2011 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Wood-laden, spicy wine with some ripe

black currant fruit and soft tannins. This is a warm, open wine that is likely to age over the next year. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

85 Château Bois de Rolland 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. A ripe and fruity wine, very typi-

cal of the vintage. There’s a strong stalky black currant character, with some dry tannins and wood flavors. The aftertaste, though, comes right back to fruit and juicy acidity. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

85 Château Rousset-Caillau 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. While there is probably plenty of

ripe fruit somewhere in this wine, it is all too much dominated by high toast wood flavors which will likely always give a tough character. It only just hints at a more generous side. House Of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Domaine de Courteillac 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. Structured wine with 30% of Cab-

ernet to give shape to the very ripe Merlot. The wine has both acidity, some firm tannins and a concentrat-ed, dry core. It’s likely to age well over 3–4 years. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

84 Château de Brondeau 2010 Merlot (Bor-deaux Supérieur). That this wine is all Merlot

is the reason both for its jammy richness and its high al-cohol. It gives a wine that is out of balance, with pepper, spice and wood dominating the super-ripe black cherry fruits. It’s unlikely to age for long. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

83 Château de Piote 2005 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). The fact it comes

from a great vintage has allowed this wine its contin-ued place in the sun. It does taste mature, not old, with leather, mushroom along with the firm structure and acidity. But don’t age for any longer. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

other red wines

92 Château Bel Air 2010 Cuvée Jean Gabriel (Lussac Saint-Émilion). From a selection of

vines, this is a powerful, complex wine that boasts ripe tannins, sweet acidity and a juicy black currant charac-

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ter. It has structure and density that certainly indicate aging, so keep the wine for at least five years. Total Wine & More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Château Béhèré Courtin 2011 Pauillac. Right next door to Mouton Rothschild, this

small property is producing wines that are dominated by the rich, firm Cabernet Sauvignon of Pauillac. The weight and density are very present, a solid dry core sur-rounded by delicious black currant fruits. A wine that will mature relatively fast because of the vintage. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $112

90 Château du Glana 2010 Terre du Lion (Saint-Julien). This wine, produced by the

team of Château du Glana, is big, bold, solid and very firmly structured. With weight, richness, black plum skins and dark tannins, it’s a fine wine for aging, so give it at least 6–7 years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

90 Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Pauil-lac. Grands Terroirs is a brand created by Ca-

hors-based Château le Cèdre. This bow to its Bordeaux neighbor has produced a Pauillac that is classic, rich, structured and packed with blackberry fruit. It is still on the young side, although drinkable, a wine that will open and round in the next two years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Château Bel-Air 2010 Lussac Saint-Émil-ion. A solid, structured wine, showing the fine

tannins of the vintage along with ripe berry fruits. It has weight, acidity, without pushing the alcohol forward, re-maining in balance. Age this wine for 3–4 years. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Château Faizeau 2010 Sélection Vieilles Vignes (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). Mint

and eucalypt aromas set the scene for a modern, pol-ished wine, packed with wood tannins as well as ripe black fruits. Currently, the tannins are winning giving a wine that is dark, structured and dry. So give it at least five years. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 Château le Pape 2011 Pessac-Léognan. Produced at Château Haut-Bailly, this concen-

trated red show the attractive fruit of 2011. It’s tannins are relatively gentle, a fine counter-point to the red ber-ry and currant fruits. It’s a wine for medium-term aging over the next 4–6 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $100

87 Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Listrac-Médoc. For a Listrac, this is soft and open, a

generous wine that has weight while showing ripe Mer-lot character. Full black plum skin flavors go with spice, licorice and touches of wood. It’s ready to drink now. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Château de Belcier 2007 Côtes de Castil-lon. Now mature, this is a softly fruity wine, its

cherry and black currant fruits attractive rounded out by the gentle tannins. There is a dry core that comes with touches of wood and acidity. Not for aging. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château du Grand Bos 2005 Graves. Mushroom aromas indicate a wine that is now

mature. It’s light, textured with hints of green herbs as well as tannins that are now dry. Not for aging, drink now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

85 Château du Grand Bos 2007 Graves. A delicate wine that is completely ready to drink

and needs to be consumed now before it ages further. The fruit has developed a secondary, animal charac-ter, the tannins starting to dominate with their dryness. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

spanish white wines

rías Baixas

91 Terras Gauda 2012 O Rosal Albariño (Rías Baixas). For freshness and elegance in

an unoaked wine, look no further than this leesy, smooth Albariño that shouts of its coastal origin. Sea notes, ap-ple and peach grace the bouquet, while the plump but zesty palate offers minerally lemon, lime and apple fla-vors. Gregory White PR. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

90 Terras Gauda 2012 Abadia de San Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is an

ideal summer white. It’s light but crisp on the bouquet, with whispy pear, apple and citrus aromas. Freshness reigns on the palate despite there being pulpy citrus fla-vors. Another wave of citrus carries the clear finish to a precise ending. Delicious white wine. Gregory White PR. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Val do Sosego 2011 Albariño (Rías Baix-as). Ripe apple aromas make the nose nice,

even though it’s flattening with age. Likewise on the palate, which delivers pithy orange and dry melon fla-vors along with indications that it’s just starting to fade. Notes of green herbs and scallion come up on the finish. Drink this mature white immediately. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Galizeus 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty apple, banana and a touch of lemon

comprise the nose. The palate offers good acidity and roundness, the right foundation for friendly apple, apri-cot and citrus flavors. The finish is fruity and juicy, with good vitality. This is nice Albariño for the money. Vicen-te Gandia PLA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Serra da Estrela 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Peach and melon aromas are holding

onto their freshness, while the palate shows a soft side and modest acidity. Tropical flavors of mango, melon and pineapple finish with nectarine notes and a touch of bitter peach pit. Drink as soon as possible. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

valdeorras

86 Casal Novo 2011 Godello (Valdeorras). Sweet melon, peach and vanilla aromas come

with a tropical leaning. The mouthfeel trends toward flat, while modest flavors of apple and melon are sup-ported by soft, melony acidity. While this is good, it’s on the flat and flabby side. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

85 Viña Somoza 2011 Selección Godello (Valdeorras). A waxy nose with aromas of

dried pit fruits including apricot is more stalky smelling than overtly fruity. A grabby mouthfeel shows weight and waxiness, while stalky, baked flavors of squash, pumpkin and papaya finish with a touch of oxidation. Drink now before this loses its vitality. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

82 Viña Somoza 2011 Sobre Lias Godello (Valdeorras). Oxidized peach and apple aro-

mas are neither here nor there. The mouthfeel on this Godello is surprisingly soft, while oxidized flavors of cit-rus and melon lack kick. From start to middle to finish, this is low on pulse. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

rueda

87 Palacio de Bornos 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). The nose on this regularly solid Verdejo is mild,

with aromas of apple, pear and melon. The palate is round and a touch fleshy, with modest acidity pushing pithy peach and pear flavors. The finish tastes of almond skins and apple. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Cantarranas 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Yeasty white-fruit aromas of melon and peach set up a

narrow feeling palate with nectarine and peach flavors. This is straightforward Verdejo with no frills. The fin-ish is lasting but simple in feel and flavor. Drink this fresh, quaffable wine right away. Cognac One, LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

86 Montespina 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Punchbowl aromas of melon and papaya are a

bit watery. The palate is round and simple in feel, with modest acidity. Easygoing flavors of melon and peach finish nice but short. This is basic white wine in every way. Evaki Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Nebla 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). This basic Verdejo from Rueda offers minerally apple and

citrus aromas in front of a zesty, citric palate. Flavors of orange and nectarine are nice but entirely regular, while


buyingguidethe finish is crisp and chalky. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Circe 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Slightly mealy smelling citrus aromas are offset by an Animal

Cracker-like vanilla scent. The palate is melony and plump, with candied lime, Yellow Delicious apple and powdered sugar flavors. This finishes soft but not flabby. Evaki Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

84 Esperanza 2012 Verdejo-Viura (Rueda). Mild, fleshy aromas of dusty white fruits lead to

a clenched, acidic palate with citrus and nectarine fla-vors. The finish shows little deviation and nothing more than basic white-fruit flavors of citrus, peach and apple. Evaki Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

rioja

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2012 Viura (Rioja). Year in and year out, this around where this

wine shakes out. The nose is clean and nice for an un-der-$10 white, with minerality and fresh white-fruit aromas. A light, focused palate offers up green melon, apple, herb and white pepper flavors in front of a crisp finish. This varietal Viura outperforms its price. Vine-yard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

85 Dinastía Vivanco 2012 Vivanco Viura-Malvasia-Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). This

three-grape white blend starts with oily aromas and weight before finding some minerality and white-fruit notes. The palate has citrusy kick and zing to bolster green apple and orange flavors. The finish is wide, a touch clumsy and citrusy in flavor, with tang and lasting freshness. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 El Coto 2012 Viura (Rioja). Yeasty, dusty aromas of apple and melon lead to a plump, al-

most flat feeling palate with generic flavors of peach, apple and melon. The finish has a soft, mealy, slightly creamy and flat feel along with modest flavors of white fruits. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

Penedès

89 Cellars Avgvstvs Forvm 2010 Xarel-lo (Penedès). Light peach, apricot and butter-

cup aromas are better at first but lose steam with air-ing. This Xarello is lemony, racy and gives off plenty of kick on the palate, while flavors of citrus and melon are equally creamy and zesty. This holds firm on the finish, with brightness offset by a creamy texture. Wine Sym-phony, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $36

87 Agustí Torelló Mata 2010 XII Subirat Par-ent Malvasia (Penedès). This is the first ta-

ble wine to come from this Cava producer and it has its ups and downs. The bouquet smells like Sprite with peach, while the palate is crisp, citric and pointed, with

orange and lime flavors and an oxidized, stalky note to the finish. This is good but middle of the road as white wines go. Andrew Bell Selection. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $29

86 Parés Baltà 2011 Blanc de Pacs Organ-ic Farming Parellada-Xarel-lo-Macabeu

(Penedès). A heavy gold color announces an oily, flo-ral nose that suggests gardenias. The palate is quite oily in feel and very plump, with decent acidity and unique flavors of persimmon, spice and exotic fruits. This is oily and a bit clunky on the finish. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

85 Parés Baltà 2010 Calcari Xarel-lo (Penedès). Oxidized, stemmy aromas suggest

a stalky, burnt-out wine. Things are slightly better in the mouth, where the feel is narrow and the flavors are bit-ter, stalky and hint at peach pit and citrus peel. This is hollow on the finish but lively in feel. Broadbent Selec-tions, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

other white wines

88 Gancedo 2007 Herencia del Capricho Godello (Bierzo). With a burnished gold tint,

this oak-aged, mature Godello offers dry citrus aromas, hard spice and barrel notes. The palate is structured and holding its own, while oaky, oxidized flavors of orange and peach end with almond, wood resin and mature citrus flavors. Drink this interesting but unusual white now. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $62

88 Genium Celler 2010 Ximensis Pedro Xi-ménez (Priorat). This small-lot, dry Pedro Xi-

ménez is maderized and oxidized, but also interesting. The nose is waxy and resiny, with dusty peach and apri-cot aromas. In the mouth, it’s complex and mature, how-ever the flavors are bitter and subdued, with corn and wheaty notes. A bready, honeyed finish brings things around. Just 90 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Oliver Conti 2011 Treyu (Empordà). The nose on this blend of Gewurztraminer and Ma-

cabeo defines neutral; it’s clean but shows little more than a whiff of apple. The palate is fresh and quick mov-ing, with mild peach, pear, apple and melon flavors that culminate in a solid finish that’s not very exciting but doesn’t stray. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

87 Oliver Conti 2009 White (Empordà). This mature blend of Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon

Blanc and Macabeo is oily, plump and fragrant, but also blocky, chunky and on its last legs of freshness. Flowery peach, melon and papaya flavors end short, with an oily mouthfeel. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Zerran 2011 Garnatxa Blanca (Mont-sant). This Montsant white is oily and oaky on

the nose. The palate on this Garnacha Blanca is plump feeling, with decent acidity and full flavors of papaya

and melon. This finishes oily in feel, with green notes and scallion flavors. Only 500 cases made. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

85 Las Colinas Del Ebro 2012 Garnacha Blanca (Terra Alta). This white Garnacha

starts with a salinic nose that contains aromas of pear, papaya, salami and ham. It’s a little flabby on the palate, with pithy, oily flavors of papaya, melon, lychee and salt. There’s mild bitterness to the finish, but not enough to sink the wine. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Mas Igneus 2010 Barranc dels Closos Blanc (Priorat). The bouquet on this white

blend almost goes in reverse, meaning it’s so neutral that it seems to go backwards. In the mouth, the wine is fleshy and soft, with flabby flavors of banana, papaya and bland citrus. A sugary tasting finish with pear and banana is o.k. but cloying. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

84 Gancedo 2011 Capricho Val de Paxari-ñas Godello (Bierzo). The nose on this clear-

colored Godello is fresh, spunky and citrusy. The palate is spritzy in feel and juicy, but also kind of cloying and clumsy. Flavors of sweet apple, citrus, lychee and man-go finish tropical and candied, with weight and flatness. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $26

84 Viñas del Vero 2010 La Miranda de Se-castilla Garnacha Blanca (Somontano).

The nose on this Grenache Blanc is oily smelling and blowsy. In the mouth, it’s fairly tangy and angular, with fresh acids and briny, pickled flavors of lime and orange. Cornichon-like flavors and wiry acidity control the fin-ish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

cava

86 Biutiful NV Brut Nature (Cava). For Brut Nature, this has body and weight to it. The nose

delivers dry apple and pear aromas, while the palate is fairly full and round for the style, with apple and lime flavors. A finish with roundness and density confirms this Cava’s good quality. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

84 Finca Torremilanos 2010 Peñalba López Brut Nature (Cava). The nose on this Cava

from Ribera del Duero is chunky and yeasty. In the mouth, the wine foams up while showing flavors of or-ange, lemon and minerals. It’s a touch sour on the fin-ish, but overall it smells and tastes good, with little to no complexity. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

83 Tarantas 2011 Brut (Cava). This opens with vanilla and sweet, powdery aromas. In the

mouth, it’s bubbly and foamy, with a mix of pickled cit-rus and dry apple flavors. The finish is crisp and dry like a soda cracker. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

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82 Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut (Cava). Iodine and briny citrus aromas are

hardly the red carpet entry you might hope for. In the mouth, this is cushioned, with briny flavors of apple and nectarine that finish bitter. This will probably go down best with a splash of orange or peach juice. On it’s own it struggles. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

80 Paul Cheneau NV Demi Sec (Cava). With dusty, candied aromas, the bouquet on this

semisweet Cava is scattered all over the map. In the mouth, it’s inoffensive, however the wine’s candied, melony flavors are cloying and overtly sugary. This is too clumsy and candied to be taken seriously. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

rosés

83 Dinastía Vivanco 2011 Vivanco Tempra-nillo-Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). With its day-

glo pink color, this smells stalky and lacks the aromatic freshness one seeks in rosé. The mouthfeel is reason-ably lively and grabby, with briny, pickled citrus flavors in front of a briny tasting finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Txomín Etxaníz 2011 Getaria Rosé (Ge-tariako Txakolina). With almost no color, this

spritzy rosado is prickly and feline on the nose, like Sau-vignon Blanc or Verdejo. The palate is lightly bubbly, with bounce and tart tangerine and herbal flavors. Txo-min Etxaníz has never made a commercial rosé prior to this. This makes you wonder why they did. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $25

82 Finca Albret 2011 Rosado Garnacha (Na-varra). This barrel-fermented rosé is flat and

smells more like apple juice than wine. Despite show-ing some tang, this is dull in the mouth, with bland or-ange and nectarine flavors. On the finish, it’s washed out and has an iodine-like aftertaste. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

81 Dominio de Eguren 2011 Protocolo Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This is no

longer in its prime. It tastes weird, mealy and slightly ex-otic, while the palate feels rubbery. Nectarine and plum notes are detectable on a strained finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $7

80 Bodegas Corellanas 2011 Viña Rubican Rosado (Navarra). This has already past its

sell-by date. The color is tan and maderized, while the nose is soft and mushy, with raisiny aromas. Like the nose, this is flabby and past its prime in the mouth, with a bland, bitter finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

spanish red wines

toro

95 Teso La Monja 2010 Alabaster (Toro). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14.5% Price: $220

93 Teso La Monja 2010 Victorino (Toro). This inky, jammy smelling Toro is overflowing with

blackberry and blueberry aromas. In the mouth, grabby tannins rise up with power, creating a rugged mouth-feel. Flavors of blackberry, charred oak, burnt meat and blackened spices finish dark, toasty, peppery and slight-ly bitter. Talk about a serious Toro with massive flavors and pounding tannins; drink from 2014 through 2019. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $63

92 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2010 Termes (Toro). This is a ripe, dark but balanced Toro

with pastry, prune, blackberry and vanilla aromas. The palate is fiercely tannic on the surface but not overly hard at the foundation. Flavors of burnt toast, black-berry, spice, licorice and chocolate finish warm, toasty and dark, with echoes of ripeness and hard tannins. Drink now through 2018. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $28

90 Cyan 2005 La Calera (Toro). This has a lot of good things going in its favor, for example

depth, power and richness. It’s also raisiny and oaky, with stewy core flavors of baked berry, cassis, roasted meat and vanilla. The finish is chewy and thick, with va-nilla and pastry flavors along with grating tannins. By no means is this wine perfect, but it offers a lot of what’s good about Toro; drink now. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $34

90 Teso La Monja 2010 Romanico (Toro). Teso la Monja picked a good vintage to intro-

duce this entry-level Toro. Romanico is big and can-died on the nose, with floral berry aromas, milk choco-late and a touch of raisin. On the palate, spunky berry fruit flavors blend with juniper notes, while the finish delivers herbal leftovers, a pinch more juniper and com-mendable length and smoothness. Jorge Ordoñez Se-lections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

89 Elias Mora 2010 Toro. For Toro, this is earthy and slightly herbal as opposed to ripe

and jammy. Aromas of mulch, leather and herbal berry lead into a firm, rocky palate with rooty flavors of burnt leaves, black fruits and oregano. A tight, compact finish with moderate flavors is a bit closed and hard. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

riBera del duero

92 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Clave de Tábula (Ribera del Duero). This is one dark,

intense Ribera del Duero with loads of lush black-fruit aromas matched against minerality and fine French-oak scents. It is tight as a drum on the palate, with wiry acid-

ity and rocky tannins. Flavors of oak-driven coconut and cream sit on top of blackberry and cola, while the finish ends abruptly, with hardness. Drink through 2024; 150 cases made. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120

92 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Tábula (Ribera del Duero). This is every bit as good

as the winery’s Clave de Tábula, which costs twice as much. An aromatic opening of fig, prune and black-berry comes with graphite, cola and attractive oak notes. This is intense and shows powerful acidity in support of blackberry, toast and dark, spicy flavors. A medium-long finish with toast and licorice is proper and not overdone. Drink from 2014–2022. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

89 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Damana Crianza (Ribera del Duero). This big, dark,

rubbery smelling Ribera wine is rugged and pushy, with mild volatility on the nose along with a whiff of spent coffee grinds. A clampy, bullish palate with rock-hard tannins sets up rubbery black-fruit flavors in front of a rough and tumble finish. Overall this is very good but hard and tannic. Hold for a year then drink through 2020. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Legaris 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Due-ro). Exotic blueberry and fir tree aromas set up

a jammy palate with soft tannins and flavors of black-berry, dark cherry, toast and a hint of burnt beef. Wide-spread tannins cause the finish to feel mellow and not that pointed. This is a very good Spanish wine that’s not too complex. Drink through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

88 Real Sitio de Ventosilla 2004 RSV 1601 El Duque de Lerma (Ribera del Duero). With

damp earth and crusty leather aromas, this is a heavy wine with baked fruit, a syrupy mouthfeel and flavors of mocha, carob, leafy berry and earth. On the finish, it’s full bodied and soft, with ripe black-fruit flavors that register as thick and a touch raisiny. Drink now. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $75

87 Portia 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Chunky, ripe black-fruit aromas come with vio-

let accents. The mouthfeel is good but gritty, with hard tannins and a lot of oak that creates a buttery topping to plum, cassis and molasses flavors. This ripe wine finish-es stable but quick, with some chocolate flavor but not much else. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

86 Mesoneros de Castilla 2008 Roble (Ri-bera del Duero). For a fresh, lighter-bodied

style of Ribera del Duero, this is pretty good. The nose is herbal and suggests tomato, thyme and dry cherry. The mouth is tight and drawing, with dry raspberry, herb and vanilla flavors that end mildly. Drink this fresh, modest wine now. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22


buyingguide80 Convento San Francisco 2008 Ribera

del Duero. This wine is not impressive in any way. It’s tannic, abrasive and tastes stalky and weedy. The finish is rough and green, like rocks in the mouth. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

rioja

90 Marqués de Vitoria 2004 Gran Reserva (Rioja). This is a very nice aged Rioja with

baked, earthy aromas of spice along with dried rasp-berry and plum. The mouthfeel is clean and solid in a normal, easy way, while flavors of plum and berry fruits carry notes of coconut and vanilla. A mild, warm, lightly baked finish cements this wine’s status. Drink now. Vi-naio Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

89 El Coto 2004 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva (Rioja). Aromas of leather, dried cherry, vanilla

and leafy earthiness get this gran reserva moving. In the mouth, it’s a touch choppy and wiry, with leafy, roasted flavors of savory plum and spice. This is shy on the fin-ish, with a hint of spice and chocolate. Drink now. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

89 Luis Alegre 2010 Koden (Rioja). Clean, fully loaded blackberry and dark plum aromas

are smooth and subtle. In the mouth, this Tempranillo is chunky and solidly built, with earthy, roasted flavors of berry and plum. Savory, meaty flavors define the fin-ish on this dark-leaning, affordable Rioja. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Baron De Ley 2010 Varietales (Rioja). This is a warm, weighty Tempranillo with earthy,

leathery, baked berry aromas. The palate is plump but solid and structured, with ripe, mildly salty tasting berry flavors that finish mossy and mature, with an abundance of oak-based vanilla and earth notes. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Inspiración Mat-urana (Rioja). With dry, spicy, leafy aromas,

this is pure, varietal Maturana, a grape only a handful of Rioja wineries are using. This version is lively, big and spirited, with reedy, leafy, black-fruit flavors and a long, spicy, full-bodied finish. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45

88 Bodegas Valdemar 2005 Inspiración Mat-urana (Rioja). This unusual varietal wine hits

with a giant wall of herbal aromas that suggest toma-to leaf, oregano and basil. The palate is firm and struc-tured in feel, with smacking tannins and flavors of dark berry fruits, green herbs and coffee. A peppery tasting finish with residual green flavors and mocha works for this decidedly herbal-leaning but high-quality wine. Drink now. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45

88 Finca Valpiedra 2009 Cantos de Valpie-dra (Rioja). This focused, crisp Tempranillo

from a nice, warm vintage offers a mix of fresh plum, raspberry, vanilla and spice on the bouquet. It’s honest and correct in the mouth, with plum, cherry, dry spice and light oak flavors. A clean, mellow finish is an appro-priate ending for this midtier Rioja. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Baron De Ley 2010 Varietales Maturana (Rioja). Don’t be shocked by this wine’s saucy,

herbal nose, because that’s what the grape variety gives. After you get used to the wine’s herbal leanings, look for an oaky, herbal palate with vanilla and peppery flavors in front of a strong, scratchy finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Bodegas Zugober 2010 Belezos (Rioja). The first whiff of this Rioja is full of oaky char,

shoe polish, raw leather and can’t-miss wood resin. With airing the nose cedes chocolate and berry scents. This is plump, chewy and a touch resiny feeling on the palate, with baked berry, savory notes, grilled meat flavors and saltiness. A roasted, rubbery finish is apropos. Casa Ven-tura Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Casa Primicia 2005 Confradia (Rioja). This is a full-force wine with a scratchy bouquet

and aromas of herbal fruit, vanilla and burnt stems. It’s jumpy in the mouth, and not that smooth, with aggres-sive tannins and baked flavors of raisin, herbs and burnt fruit. On the finish, there’s oaky caramel and chocolate along with heat and stewy notes. Vin Divino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $73

87 Casado Morales 2010 Dimidium Nobleza (Rioja). This Tempranillo is electric purple in

color, with aromas of rubber, horse hide and grapy ber-ry. It’s round and jammy feeling, with tannic grip and jammy flavors of baked, earthy berry fruits, followed by a savory, meaty, roasted tasting finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Castillo Labastida 2009 Crianza (Rioja). This is a well-made Rioja with generic plum and

berry aromas that come forth in fruity, bouncy fashion. The palate is medium bodied, with standard berry fruit flavors and very little spice or complexity. A finish with buttery oak and vanilla qualifies as oaky for the level of fruit this wine is bringing. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Loriñon 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Heavy ber-ry, leather, mint and oak aromas show a bit of

stalkiness in front of a regular feeling palate with mossy, earthy berry flavors. A chunky, savory tasting finish with fresh acidity and length keeps things moving in a posi-tive direction. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Marques de Tomares 2001 Gran Reserva (Rioja). With savory, leafy, balsamic aromas,

this is good but sedentary on the nose. In the mouth, it’s full but a little flat, with a mild pulse and meaty, bal-

samic flavors of earthy berry and prune. A short, earthy finish closes it out. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

87 Marqués de Vitoria 2005 Reserva (Rio-ja). For the most part, this Rioja is good, not

great. The nose deals tomato leaf, herbal notes, floral berry and leather, while the palate is fresh and racy, with strong acidity. Flavors of earthy, lightly herbal raspberry and plum end in a modest, acidic, scratchy finish. Vinaio Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

87 Viña Bujanda 2009 Crianza (Rioja). This is a bit old fashioned on the nose, where vanilla,

dried fruit and dill aromas hold court. A dry, traditional type of palate delivers spiced plum, red cherry and mild herbal flavors in front of a light-bodied, slightly oaky tasting finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Marqués de Elciego 2009 Selección (Rio-ja). The nose on this round, medium-bodied

wine is defined by sweet oak and milk chocolate. In the mouth, it’s chunky and ripe, with raw tannins. Flavors of sweet, pushy berry fruits and heavy oak lead to a toasty finish with carob and wood flavors. This is good but oak-dominated. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $24

86 Valsacro 2010 Rioja. After this Rioja opens with earthy, almost food-like aromas of ground

beef, rubber and leather, oak takes over and in march a bacony scent and plenty of char. This is plump and chunky in feel, with earthy, rubbery, savory flavors of charred black fruits and cured meats. It becomes more and more oaky and drawing on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

85 Casa Primicia 2008 T Crianza (Rioja). With can’t-miss aromas of vanilla, dill and leath-

ery cherry, this starts out in textbook form for a Rio-ja crianza. The palate is just round enough, with initial dark-berry flavors followed by numerous waves of bold oak that finish in a pool of dill, mint and spice flavors. Vin Divino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $21

85 Marqués de Legarda 2008 Crianza (Rio-ja). Raspberry, chocolate and plum aromas

form a basic bouquet. This shows tight grip along with flavors of baked berry fruits, leather and earth. The fin-ish tastes a bit rubbery, and then heat and dry, peppery notes take over. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Viña Cerrada 2009 Crianza (Rioja). The overriding character of this basic Rioja is raisiny,

ripe berry fruit; it’s on the nose, palate and finish. Along-side these notes are mild tannins, some rubbery weight and chunky friendliness. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Finca Nueva 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Light aromas of red plum and raspberry lead to a wiry,

snappy feeling palate with a mix of raspberry, plum and cocoa powder flavors. This is a lean, juicy Tempranillo

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with modest character and a clean finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

84 Taron 2008 4M (Rioja). Earthy baked cher-ry aromas come across candied and minty. The

palate is full-force in terms of acidity, with punchy fla-vors of strawberry and plum. This finishes light, with strong acidity pushing snappy tartness to the fore. Am-phora Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

83 Berberana 2008 Viña Alarde Crianza (Rioja). Raw aromas of rhubarb and scratchy

raspberry offer little to latch onto. The palate feels clipped and angular, while the flavors are a touch stalky and generic as far as red fruit goes. This finishes tangy and scouring. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Don Jacobo 2004 Reserva (Rioja). This wine is about as raisiny as it gets while still hold-

ing onto a sense of balance. Aromas of stewed berry fruits, prune and carob lead to a grabby, lemony tasting palate with raisin, vanilla and sweet tobacco on the fin-ish. RM Distributors Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

calatayud

89 Bodegas Ateca 2011 Honoro Vera Garna-cha (Calatayud). This wine is fresh as can be,

with loads of friendly black-fruit aromas upfront. The palate is juicy and bright, not the least bit hard or tannic, with huge flavors of berry fruits, baking spices, choco-late and even some bacon. This delivers a lot for the price. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

89 Tres Ojos 2011 Garnacha (Calatayud). With a hint of rubber and asphalt, the bouquet

on this value wine is generous and topped with black-berry and dark plum aromas. The palate is grabby, with clampy tannins and black-fruit flavors mixed with choc-olate and spice. The earthy, lightly herbal finish with rubbery nuances is nice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

88 Figaro 2011 Tinto (Calatayud). This is dark as night, with boysenberry, blackberry, animal

fur and smooth oak aromas. For $10, it’s bringing all sorts of power and quality, like oak-influenced flavors of vanilla, chocolate, blackberry and cassis. On the finish, this is full and smacks down with tannic grab. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

88 Marqués de Montañana 2011 Selección Especial Garnacha (Calatayud). This Gar-

nacha is perfectly good in every way, shape and form. The nose is loaded with bright berry aromas and a hint of mint. The palate feels lively and right, while flavors of raspberry, blackberry and leather lead to a deep, long, slightly hot finish. Evaki Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

83 Garnacha de Fuego 2011 Old Vines Gar-nacha (Calatayud). Prune and raisin aromas

pour off the bouquet, providing more than a clue that this wine is on the overripe side. That’s confirmed in the mouth, where things feel tannic and over the top; fla-vors of raisin, sugar beet and chocolate finish with heat and hardness. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $8

Priorat

91 Domini de la Cartoixa 2007 Clos Galena (Priorat). By and large, this is a good Priorat to

drink or hold, because it should still improve. Both the bouquet and palate are oaky and fiery, with cherry, rasp-berry and vanilla flavors. On the finish, things turn but-tery before settling on rooty and staunch. The more air this gets, the more it comes around. Drink now through 2018. Palmateer Consulting LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Casa Rojo 2009 Fauno Organic Grapes Garnatxa Negra (Priorat). For full review


88 Pinord 2007 +7 (Priorat). The bouquet on this Priorat is raisiny, with tobacco and schisty

aromas. The palate is one part jumpy and another part stewy and clumsy, with baked berry flavors that come with a tangy citric edge. The finish is long, with tobacco, stewed fruit and hard tannins. Drink now through 2015. Republic National Distributing Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Domini de la Cartoixa 2007 Galena (Pri-orat). Leather and herbal berry fruit aromas

come with a horsey, stalky side. The palate is solid but hard, with herbal, stemmy flavors of licorice, baked ber-ry and chocolate. The finish is chocolaty and slightly bit-ter, with a leftover green note. Palmateer Consulting LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

montsant

91 Jaspi 2010 Negre (Montsant). Dusty spice and red-berry aromas are a fine opening to this

blend of Garnacha, Carignan, Cab Sauvignon and Syr-ah. It’s fairly full bodied but not heavy, with fine bal-ance and bright flavors of cherry and berry that come in layered waves. A toasty, dry finish with spice and good acidity closes out this easy-to-like Spanish red. Drink through 2017. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Can Blau 2010 Montsant. Fresh berry and plum aromas come with earth and herbal ac-

cents, which only boost the bouquet’s complexity. The palate on this blend of Carignan, Garnacha and Syrah is structured and tight, with earthy, lightly toasted flavors of black cherry and plum. Spice, cocoa and oaky dry-ness define the finish. Drink through 2016. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

89 Zerran 2010 Montsant. Tarry blackberry and plum aromas are good and lusty. This is a round,

medium-bodied blend of Garnacha, Carignan and Syr-ah that’s ripe but not overpowering. Flavors of berry and plum are red in nature and finish with spicy notes and a good feel. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Bula 2010 Montsant. Scratchy plum and raspberry aromas are fresh and forward, while

the mouthfeel follows suit; it’s juicy, with narrowing acidity and brightness. Flavors of raspberry, plum and cherry end zesty and long, with crisp acidity maintaining focus. This is a blend of Carignan (Mazuelo), Garnacha and Syrah. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

88 Can Blau 2010 Blau (Montsant). This straightforward, perfectly clean blend of Cari-

gnan, Syrah and Garnacha would function as a great ev-eryday house red. It’s lively and a little racy and grating on the palate, with standard, fresh berry flavors touched up by a sprinkle of chocolaty oak. A modest finish keeps the vibe positive. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 R.O.Q. Corp 2009 R-OH Carignan- Grenache (Montsant). Initially, this smells

damp and earthy, although with airing a mix of leath-er, berry fruits and vanilla emerge. The palate is bumpy and borderline sticky feeling, with baked, earthy flavors of black fruits and herbal tones. The finish is short and tastes a little raisiny. Vinos Libres. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

valencia

89 Bodegas Rafael Cambra 2010 Soplo Gar-nacha (Valencia). This is a clean, fresh style

of Garnacha with floral black cherry aromas offset by a minty note. The palate has a zingy feel and crisp, fresh plum, raspberry and dry herb flavors. As a whole it’s fo-cused and uncomplicated; this is very good Garnacha from one of the Valencia region’s better producers. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Vicente Gandia 2010 El Miracle by Mar-iscal Old Vine Garnacha (Valencia). For

full review see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Angosto 2010 Tinto (Valencia). This Valen-cia blend opens with aromas of latex, Band-Aid

and jammy red-berry fruits. It’s wide in the mouth, with a mix of buttery oak, herbal berry and minty plum fla-vors. This is good but shows a distinct green side on the palate and finish. Vino Cava. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

jumilla

88 Bodegas Carchelo 2010 Sierva (Jumilla). With full-force aromas of leather, blackberry

and licorice, this Levante blend is an aggressive wine with a tight, acidic body and racy flavors of cherry and tart plum. It’s forward and pushy, with rawness, plenty


buyingguideof acidity on the finish, and flavors that take on a dark character. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

85 Pedro Luis Martínez 2010 Hilanda Mon-astrell (Jumilla). Raw, rooty, scratchy aromas

that suggest clove and licorice set up a tight, drawing, tannic palate with herbal, leathery, dark flavors of wild berry and bitter chocolate. Mint, a strong clove charac-teristic and dark fruit flavors control the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

82 Caracol Serrano 2010 Jumilla. This wine’s light, rusty color and herbal, dilute nose tell you

most of what you need to know about this weakly con-stituted Monastrell-led blend. Tea, leafy fruit flavors, pepper and rooty flavors are what it’s about. Tri-Vin Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

other red wines

92 Marques de Griñon 2007 Emeritus (Do-minio de Valdepusa). This is a ripe, rich

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah that opens with blackberry, blueberry and earthy leath-er aromas. It’s full bodied, lifted by nice acids and lay-ered, with toast, meaty blackberry, licorice and roasted flavors. A chewy, smooth, deep finish functions as the final chapter. Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

91 Clunia 2010 El Rincón de Clunia Tem-pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y

León). Earthy dark-berry and leathery aromas are nice and convincing. The palate on this single-vineyard Tem-pranillo is big but balanced, with layering and firm tan-nins. Flavors of black fruits, creamy oak and earth finish with grabby tannins and sincerity. Drink this full-bodied wine now through 2018. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

90 Marques de Griñon 2007 Single Vineyard Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Do-

minio de Valdepusa). Like many Griñon wines, this is dense and earthy on the nose, with ripe berry and marzipan aromas. A round, layered, full-bodied palate shows hard, unresolved tannins and ripe, earthy flavors of blackberry, spice, herbs and chocolate. A firm, tex-tured finish with integrated flavors is bullish but classy. Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Viñas del Cenit 2008 Cenit Old Vines Tempranillo (Tierra del Viños de Zamo-

ra). Given the difficulties of this cool vintage, this is an excellent wine with dark berry, herb, spice and vanilla aromas. It’s firm on the palate like most 2008s, with fla-vors of blackberry, chocolate and oak spice leading to an earthy tasting finish. Drink now–2016. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

89 Clunia 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier-ra de Castilla y León). Boysenberry and

blueberry aromas mixed with oak scents amount to an

inviting, solid bouquet. In the mouth, this is healthy, full-bodied and showing plenty of kick. Flavors of berry fruits, plum and roasted notes end with jammy berry flavors and a good texture. Drink now–2015. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

88 Cellar Bàrbara Forés 2006 Coma d’En Pou (Terra Alta). Aromas of vanilla, stewed

red berry, leather, cheese and heat indicate a ripe wine entering it’s peak years. This is tannic and grating in the mouth, with syrupy flavors of prune and chocolate. The finish carries a baked character along with flavors of rai-sin and liqueur. Drink now. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $35

87 Bodegas Artazu 2011 Artazuri Garna-cha (Navarra). This is straightforward, no-

frills Garnacha with plum and berry aromas followed by a tight, slightly tannic palate that houses raspberry and plum flavors. The finish is smooth for the most part, with some heat and herbal flavors. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Bodegas Navarro López 2010 Premium 1904 Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). With solid berry and plum aromas, the bouquet is friendly and nice. This is fresh and fruity in style, with hints of leather and choco-late accenting core berry and plum flavors. An earthy, warm finish with leathery notes is the final act. Quintes-sential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

87 Marques de Griñon 2007 El Rincón Syrah- Grenache (Vinos de Madrid). With

a dark purple hue and rubbery, horsy aromas of black fruit, leather, dried beef and coffee, this full-bodied blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Garnacha delivers plump, chewy flavors of dark plum and ripe blackberry. There’s also a lot of animal, earth and leather to the rustic finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 V&N Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cariñena). Leathery, stalky berry aromas are

a bit rustic, and so is the feel. But the flavors on this Cabernet from Cariñena are satisfying and forward, suggesting stewed plum, baked berry and sun-drenched warmth. This is almost cooked but it pulls back. At six years of age it is what it is; drink now. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Príncipe de Viana 2007 1423 Reserva (Navarra). Jammy, mildly green aromas of

tobacco, cherry and blueberry shed clarity with air-ing. This blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet and Merlot is high in acid, a touch abrasive and hollow in the mid-palate, with green-leaning, minty flavors of blackberry and plum. This finishes acidic, with some scour. Syba-rite Global LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Vivencias 2009 V Tempranillo (Vino de Calidad de Valtiendas). Boysenberry aromas

are modest and lack spine. In the mouth, this is stan-dard, with oak-based flavors of toast, chocolate and va-nilla on top of generic berry. The finish is thick and oaky, with a touch of raisiny flavor. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Arrayán 2007 Premium (Mentrida). Stalky, mildly green aromas of grass, blueberry and rai-

sin are challenging but not offputting. This is tight and fairly acidic for a La Mancha blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Flavors of herbal berry and stewed fruits end with a baked character and heat. Vino Cava. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

84 Finca Antigua 2010 Garnacha (La Man-cha). Grassy berry and light, leafy aromas de-

fine the bouquet. The mouth is a little tangy but mostly jammy, while blueberry, lemony oak and dilution define the flavor profile. A short, choppy, jammy finish comes across slightly washed out. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Sícoris 2009 Red (Costers del Segre). Simple strawberry aromas come with stalky side

notes. In the mouth, this is tannic while also coming across syrupy. Baked flavors of molasses, stewed plum and nutmeg end in a syrupy, cooked finish. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

83 Toscar 2010 Monastrell (Alicante). Medic-inal cherry and plum aromas are smothered in

milk chocolate scents that turn more animal and leath-ery with airing. The palate is chunky but dull in feel, with generic red-berry flavors covered with candied oak and herbal notes. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

82 Bodegas Tempore 2010 Esenzia Old Vine Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra del

Bajo Aragón). Clunky aromas of raisin and compost lack vitality and suggest overripeness. The mouthfeel is dense and tannic, while flavors of prune and overripe blue berry dominate. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

81 Bodegas 1898 2009 Ramón Roqueta Garnacha (Catalunya). This reedy, strained

Garnacha features cheesy aromas, stalky fruit and chemical notes. The palate is hard in feel, with a weedy, burnt aftertaste. First Tier Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

80 Vivencias 2008 V Tempranillo (Vino de Calidad de Valtiendas). This is not fresh

or fruity; in fact, the nose is nutty and muddied, with a rough, angular mouthfeel and flavors of peanut, vanilla and leathery raspberry. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 73

BourBon

97 Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage 2002 Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery,

Bardstown, KY). Extremely flavorful and rich, with a lush caramel scent and notes of butterscotch, hazelnut, toffee and fig. Savor with an ice cube or two. The 2002 edition represents the 17th year of production for this bottling. Best Buy.abv: 43.3% Price: $26

96 Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage 2003 Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distill-

ery, Bardstown, KY). Evan Williams has released a vintage Bourbon every year since 1986, and they tend to be excellent. The 2003 edition upholds that reputa-tion, layering butterscotch, sturdy oak and rich maple, and finishing mellow and smooth. Recommended for sipping straight up, or with ice. Best Buy.abv: 43.3% Price: $26

96 Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Hillrock Estate Distillery, Hudson

Valley, NY). From master distiller Dave Pickerell, this estate-grown, field-to-flask offering makes good use of oloroso Sherry barrels. Look for peach and vanilla aro-mas, bold raisin and brown sugar flavors and a gentle exit that just hints at Sherry. At nearly 93 proof, the alcohol makes its presence known, so add some wa-ter or vermouth if you must. Attractive and substantial squared bottle.abv: 46.3% Price: $80

96 Parker’s Heritage Collection—Cognac Finished Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Dis-

tillery, Bardstown, KY). This limited edition (6,000

bottles) Bourbon finished in Cognac barrels has a rich amber color with orange highlights, and enticing aro-mas of raisin and chocolate. This full-bodied wow of a whiskey coats the palate with big, rich flavors, leaving a lingering finish of toffee, orange peel and espresso. It’s 100 proof, so keep the branchwater on hand.abv: 50% Price: $80

95 Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey (USA; The Bulleit Distilling Co, Lawrenceburg,

KY). Golden and bright, this straight Bourbon whiskey is one of the most versatile around. Though it starts with a sweet flavor profile with hints of vanilla and cookie dough, it finishes supple and dry, with notes of leather, black tea and cinnamon. Bracing alcohol levels. Best Buy.abv: 45% Price: $28

94 Angel’s Envy Cask Strength (USA; Lou-isville Distilling Company, Louisville, KY).

Some might prefer the more sippable regular-strength version, but for those seeking higher proof, this lively expression is surely a contender in the growing cask-strength category. The nose is rich with touches of peach and toffee, while the palate finds velvety caramel and dark-fruit notes attributable to a turn in Port bar-rels. 600 bottles released.abv: 61.85% Price: $149

94 Four Roses Yellow Label (USA; Four Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY).

Consider this blended Bourbon for dessert pairings or a fruit-spiked Old Fashioned. Look for caramel and dried-cherry aromas and a flavor akin to dark choco-late-covered cherries. The long, mouthwatering finish

is dark and decadent, evoking chocolate, espresso, Port, leather, nutmeg and clove. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

94 Old Forester Signature (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This luxurious

Bourbon shows layered and dense flavors that run to the darker and drier side: cocoa, espresso, clove and all-spice, all wrapped in beautiful caramel and butterscotch aromatics. At 100 proof, the alcohol deservedly feels intense, so best to temper this with a bit of branchwater or ice. Best Buy.abv: 50% Price: $22

93 Chestnut Farms Kentucky Straight Bour-bon Whiskey (USA; Clear Spring Distill-

ing Co, Louisville, KY). Since Louisville is horse country as well as Bourbon country, the galloping horse etched on the bottle feels spot on. Silky and rich, this dark amber Bourbon offers espresso, dried apricot and cigar tobacco, with a baking spice finish. Brisk alcohol. abv: 45% Price: $48

93 Four Roses Single Barrel (USA; Four Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY).

Pour this single-barrel Bourbon some time in advance to allow it to open up and reveal crème caramel aromat-ics while you eye the rich topaz color in the glass. Sweet and smooth, this whiskey finishes with dry espresso, dark chocolate and black-tea notes. Mix into classic cocktails.abv: 50% Price: $40

93 Henry DuYore’s Straight Bourbon Whis-key (USA; Ransom Spirits, Sheridan,

OR). This Bourbon boasts concentrated caramel aro-ma. Flavors run to caramel and honey, touched with charred oak and allspice notes. It’s plush and rounded in feel. The soft-wax cap is frustratingly hard to open, but luckily, it’s worth the struggle.abv: 45.6% Price: $40

93 Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery,

Bardstown, KY). This small-batch Bourbon uses wheat in place of rye to create a soft, rounded character. The mild crème brulee aroma leads into sasparilla and creamy caramel flavors. At 92 proof, it’s a wonder that the alcohol feels so moderate, but it makes its presence known in the cinnamon-firework finish. Attractive bot-tle design with clever keyhole label. Best Buy.abv: 46% Price: $25

93 Maker’s 46 (USA; Maker’s Mark Distill-ery, Loretto, KY). Finished in the barrel with

specially seared oak staves, this Bourbon is a new clas-sic. In the glass, it sports a bright maple color, and live-ly, spicy aromas and flavors of oaky vanilla and tropical fruit touched with clove, ginger and allspice.abv: 47% Price: $35

93 Single Barrel Hancock’s President’s Reserve (USA: Hancock Distilling Co.,

Frankfort, KY). Full of bold vanilla, dried fruit and

these all-American Bourbons and ryes are just the ticket for Fourth of July par-ties, and mixing into icy juleps, bucks and

Sazeracs all summer long. Be sure to see this month’s feature on frozen cocktails (page 55) if you need a little inspiration!

Although there’s plenty to celebrate in the Bourbon and rye categories, a question arose mid-tasting for the reviews below: Why are so many whiskeys so darn hot?

There are surely valid reasons for leaving some whiskeys at high proofs—preserving fla-vor, chiefly—but when abvs start heading north of 45% (90 proof), many of these spirits lose their drinkability. And when they hit 100 proof or higher (one whiskey in this tasting clocked in at a palate-numbing 132 proof) the arguments for cask strength and above seem flimsy. While

this is the same proof that absinthe is often bot-tled at, those producers suggest diluting ab-sinthe at a ratio of 3 parts water (or more) to 1 part absinthe, bringing it down to the neighbor-hood of 40 proof.

Yet in the wake of the Maker’s Mark decision earlier this year to lower its proof from 90 proof to 84 proof—a decision that consumers loudly booed, leading Maker’s Mark to swiftly back-track—it seems unlikely that we’ll be seeing many whiskeys brought down to 80 proof.

A splash of branchwater won’t do the trick with a super high-octane whiskey—yet too much water does a disservice too. Where’s the middle ground?

When the whiskey gets too hot, at least one refuge remains: cocktails. Time to go find those frosty silver julep cups. —Kara newman

sPirits

all-american: bourbon and rye


buyingguidesweet caramel, this Bourbon pops with spicy cinnamon, ginger and clove on the finish. Just a splash of water opens up more gorgeous vanilla and oak. Has a pleasing viscosity and modest alcohol presence.abv: 44.45% Price: $35

92 Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bour-bon Whiskey (USA; Buffalo Trace Distill-

ery, Franklin County, KY). A good workhorse for all manner of cocktails, this bright amber Bourbon has a butterscotch aroma and oaky, relatively dry flavors that elongate into a rich caramel finish. Best Buy.abv: 45% Price: $25

92 Filibuster Dual Cask Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; MS Trading LP,

Bardstown, KY). For full review see page 14. abv: 45% Price: $43

92 Four Roses Small Batch (USA: Four Ros-es Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY). This

blended Bourbon starts smooth and sweet, with sas-parilla and maple sugar, then explodes with bold cassia, cinnamon and cayenne razzle-dazzle.abv: 45% Price: $30

92 High West Whiskey American Prairie Re-serve (USA; High West Distillery, Park

City, UT). Gentle and soft, this blend of straight Bour-bons would be lovely in a Manhattan smoothed out with sweet vermouth. Look for sweet, creamy caramel aro-mas and flavors that waft into cocoa and espresso on the finish. A portion of profits goes to benefit the American Prairie Reserve in northeastern Montana.abv: 46% Price: $40

92 Russell’s Reserve Small Batch 10-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon (USA;

Austin Nichols Distilling Company, Lawrence-burg, KY). From Master Distiller Jimmy Russell and his son Eddie Russell, this tawny and full-bodied whis-key evolves on the palate. At first, it features orange peel, vanilla and caramel, then dry leather and cocoa notes midpalate, and finishes long and lean with clove and allspice accents. Dilute to taste, sip slowly and con-sider all the complex flavors.abv: 45% Price: $36

91 Big House Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Underdog Wine and Spirits, Cutler,

CA). Aged for “a six year stretch,” in jailhouse parlance, this silky amber Bourbon features vanilla touched with bright Meyer lemon, espresso and allspice. Best Buy.abv: 45% Price: $22

91 Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey Aged 10 Years (USA; Bulleit Distilling Com-

pany, Lawrenceburg, KY). Rich and creamy, this small-batch Bourbon offers butterscotch laced with bit-ter chocolate and orange peel, edged with a clove and cinnamon finish. Muscular alcohol feel.abv: 45.6% Price: $45

91 Two Stars Handcrafted Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Clear

Spring Distillery, Louisville, KY). A lighter-style

Bourbon with finesse and elegance, this amber spirit has a pretty vanilla and orange blossom scent, and gen-tle vanilla sweetness on the palate rounded out with a baking spice finish. Best Buy.abv: 43% Price: $19

90 Single Barrel Widow Jane Whiskey (USA; Cacao Prieto, Brooklyn, NY). From

chocolate maker Cacao Prieto comes an innovative Bourbon made with water from the Widow Jane mine in Rosendale, NY—an unusual limestone-rich source similar to those found in Kentucky. Aged for seven years in American oak, the spirit needs a little time to open up and coax forth vanilla and cola-like notes on the palate. Distinctly sweet on the palate, most of the flavor is on the finish, with a flourish of sasparilla, vanilla, cola and allspice.abv: 45.5% Price: $63

90 Russell’s Reserve Small Batch Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whis-

key (USA; Austin Nichols Distilling Company, Lawrenceburg, KY). A word of warning: don’t drink this straight. Don’t even try. At 110 proof, it can be downright painful. But with proper dilution, this Bour-bon is still rich and deep flavored. Maturation time in dark “alligator char” barrels yields hazelnut, oak and tof-fee seasoned with nutmeg and clove.abv: 55% Price: $50

89 Parker’s Heritage Collection-Master Dis-tiller’s Blend of Mashbills (USA; Heaven

Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). Mingling select-ed barrels of 11-year-old, rye-based and 11-year-old wheated Bourbons yields a soft spirit with crème bru-lee and toffee aromatics. The palate boasts warm cara-mel, cookie dough and dried fruit flavors, and a dry oaky note on the finish. It’s interesting and no doubt techni-cally accomplished, but at a whopping 132 proof, most will find this quite challenging to drink. Limited release of 7,500 bottles. abv: 66% Price: $80

89 Winchester Small Batch Straight Bour-bon Whiskey (USA: Terressentia Corp.,

North Charleston, SC). Aged a minimum of two years, this lighter whiskey is especially enjoyable when mixed. It has an amber hue with golden highlights, and gently sweet flavors of vanilla and honey, dried apricot, raisin, baked apple and nutmeg.abv: 45% Price: $23

88 Black Eagle Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA: Eagle Distilled Products

Co., Princeton, MN). Gentle and mild, this Bourbon plays well with others. With a restrained vanilla flavor touched with ginger and cinnamon, this spirit is espe-cially nice in mixed drinks with a bit of sweetness.abv: 40% Price: $13

88 Michter’s Single Barrel 20 Years Old Bourbon (USA; Michter’s, Bardstown,

KY). Just over 200 bottles of this super-limited edi-tion were released in 2012—most of them are already gone from the shelves. Although many whiskey lovers have lauded this Bourbon as a new favorite, the titanic

114 proof makes it hot and difficult to savor the but-terscotch-like flavors, even with major doses of water added.abv: 57.1% Price: $450

85 Buckhorn Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Clear Springs Distilling

Co., Louisville, KY). This sour-mash blended whiskey has a light amber hue and vanilla and spice notes over-shadowed by a distinctly resin-like flavor. Best to save it for mixing, perhaps with ginger ale and lots of lime.abv: 40% Price: $15

84 Black Ridge Small Batch (USA; Clear Spring Distilling Co., Louisville, KY). De-

spite lovely fruity aromatics that tell a tale of fresh ap-ples and sweet vanilla bean, on the palate this small-batch Bourbon has a strong resin flavor and alcohol heat, with vanilla and fruit resurfacing only on the finish.abv: 45% Price: $30

rye

95 Sazerac Rye (USA; Sazerac Company, Frankfort, KY). Versatile, crisp, and an ideal

match for cocktails that also include orange liqueur, as well as its namesake classic cocktail. Light aromas in-clude vanilla and a touch of juicy citrus. Flavors run to bitter orange, dark chocolate and black tea, finishing with a pepper tingle. Velvety feel, despite the brisk al-cohol. Best Buy.abv: 45% Price: $25

95 Wild Turkey Rye (USA; Campari Ameri-ca, San Francisco, SF). Made with a mix of

4- and 5-year-old rye whiskies and aged in barrels with “alligator” char to add more flavor, this relatively new of-fering is delicious. Look for a bright, saturated golden color and sweet vanilla and fruit aromas. On the pal-ate, it has a soft texture and rounded feel, and lingering caramel notes pepped up with the bold spiciness char-acteristic of rye. Best Buy.abv: 40.50% Price: $23

94 Angels Envy Rye Whiskey (USA; Louis-ville Distilling Company, Louisville, KY).

This honey-hued rye has a remarkable aroma, meld-ing cookie dough, hazelnut and marzipan. The same luscious flavors show up on the palate, rich and sweet, leading into a confected finish of Nutella sprinkled with nutmeg and cinnamon. The sugar-and-spice effect is due to 18 months finishing time in casks that first held Cognac, then Caribbean rum.abv: 50% Price: $80

94 Dickel Rye Whisky (USA; Geo. A. Dickel & Co., Tullahoma, TN). Despite a mash bill

of 95% rye and 5% malted barley, this golden-bright, small-batch rye is smooth and not as spicy as other rye whiskies. It has a surprising freshness, with bold vanilla, nut, fresh apple and white-flower aromas leaping out of the glass. While charred-oak flavors hit the palate first (it’s matured in charred oak barrels for at least five

WineMag.com | 75

years), it finishes downright buttery, touched with gin-ger and maple sweetness. Best Buy.abv: 45% Price: $25

91 Templeton Rye (USA; Templeton Rye, New York, NY). Perfect for classic cocktails,

this golden-amber rye invites with lots of vanilla on the nose and palate, plus mouthwatering notes of pear, cin-namon and black pepper.abv: 40% Price: $40

91 Bulleit Rye Whiskey (USA; The Bulleit Distilling Co, Lawrenceburg, KY). Bright

and buttery, this rye has a warm, malty scent and mel-low flavors of cookie dough and juicy lemon, inter-spersed with just the right amount of rye bite.abv: 45% Price: $28

90 Filibuster Dual Cask Rye Whiskey (USA; MS Trading LP, Bardstown, KY). A little

aeration time coaxes out a mellow vanilla scent. As with its Bourbon counterpart, this rye is aged in Amer-ican oak casks, then finished in “white-wine seasoned French oak barrels.” The result is a soft feel and hon-eyed fruit notes spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. abv: 45% Price: $43

89 Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey (USA; Mountain Laurel Spirits, Bristol,

PA). For full review see page 15. abv: 45% Price: $43

88 Widow Jane Rye (USA; Cacao Prieto, Brooklyn, NY). This two-year-old amber rye

has a fresh apple scent, and a slightly fruity cast on the palate too. Most of the flavor is on the finish, showing clove, bitter chocolate and cinnamon. Strong alcohol presence. abv: 45.5% Price: $37

other american whiskey

93 Michter’s Small Batch Original Sour Mash Whiskey (USA; Michter’s, Bard-

stown, KY). Resurrected after 23 years, this smooth, buttery American whiskey is worth the wait. It has mel-low vanilla and oak flavors, with a faint cherry essence on the long finish that seems to urge, “stir up a few Manhattans already.” abv: 43% Price: $44

BourBon/rye/scotch

91 High West Whiskey Campfire (USA; High West Distillery, Park City, UT). An unex-

pectedly wonderful pairing with a sweet chocolate or a sticky caramel dessert, Campfire blends straight rye whiskey, straight Bourbon and blended Scotch. Alto-gether, it’s big and smoky, with lots of iodine, but doesn’t completely overwhelm, settling into a pleasing mix of

toffee and peat. Gift a bottle to a Scotch lover to intro-duce the joys of American whiskeys.abv: 46% Price: $60

BourBon liqueur

87 Big House Tupelo Honey (USA; Under-dog Wine and Spirits, Cutler, CA). As a

six-year-old Bourbon whiskey blended with honey li-queur, this has potential as a digestif or sweetener for Bourbon-based drinks. It has a lightly floral cast, meld-ing honey, vanilla and white flowers with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Use a light touch, though—it still has kick. abv: 35% Price: $22


buyingguide

lagers

92 Samuel Adams Double Agent IPL (Amer-ican Pale Lager; The Boston Beer Co.,

MA). A new brew from BBC, the Double Agent IPL is a playful hybrid of an IPA and a lager. It’s balanced and smooth, with medium-intense citrusy hop notes on the nose that continue onto the palate, offering a hint of bit-terness through the finish. The crisp pale-malt core pro-vides a solid base, with very light sweetness and barely ripe stone-fruit flavors supporting the hoppy bite. Brisk carbonation keeps the mouthfeel lifted and the finish clean. This is a sessionable selection that’s perfect for those who want a bit more oomph and character to their lagers. abv: 5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

91 Samuel Adams Boston Lager (Vienna-style Lager; The Boston Beer Co., MA).

For full review see page 14.abv: 4.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

90 Full Sail LTD Series Limited Edition Vi-enna-style Lager Recipe No. 05 (Vienna-

style Lager; Full Sail Brewing Co., OR). This rich yet smooth lager pours a bright copper color with a frothy off-white head that shows good retention. Malty aromas of roasted grain, soft caramel and a hint of tof-fee are upfront on the nose, but are complemented by a spicy hop aroma in the background. The mouth is creamy and flavorful, lifted by medium carbonation and a citrusy dry-hop character that lingers on the fin-ish. This is a well-balanced and enjoyable brew.abv: 5.6% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

84 Kräftig Lager (American Pale Lager; Wil-liam K. Bosch Brewing Co., MO). This

clean and refreshing lager offers light notes of bread grains, cereal and faint floral hints. The palate is brisk and sharp, with high carbonation and a light feel. Crisp and easy on the close; a good choice for enjoying out-doors, very cold, on hot days. abv: 5% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack

83 Kräftig Light Beer (Light Lager; William K. Busch Brewing Co., MO). A pale, clear

yellow color in the glass, this immediately looks easy to drink. Faint notes of sweet grain and light malt lead on the nose and carry through onto the bright, highly effer-vescent palate. Clean and refreshing on the finish, over-all this is an easygoing and accessible brew. abv: 4.2% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack

ales

91 Deschutes River Ale (American Blonde Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR). This stun-

ning ale pours a bright golden color in the glass with great clarity and a pillowy white head that lingers. Grass and citrus-hop aromas waft from the glass, with sup-porting notes of clean malt, cracker and soft red apple. Those notes continue onto the palate, with high carbon-ation that keeps the mouthfeel light and brisk. Linger-ing accents of bitter hops and stone-fruit skin adorn the finish.abv: 4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

91 Full Sail Brewer’s Share Phil’s Existen-tial Alt (Altbier; Full Sail Brewing Co.,

OR). This Brewer’s Share release is a well-balanced

and surprisingly sessionable Altbier. It pours a medium amber-mahogany color in the glass, with initial aromas of lightly toasted bread, caramel and citrus oil followed by secondary accents of light fruity esters and honey. The palate is rich and malty, but lifted by moderate car-bonation, which keeps the mouthfeel accessible and re-freshing. A roasted malt note lingers through the dry and lightly bitter finish. A portion of the proceeds go to the Friends of the Children mentoring program in Portland.abv: 5.1% Price: $5/22 oz

89 Full Sail Limited Edition ESB Pub Series Extra Special Bitter (Extra Special/Strong

Bitter; Full Sail Brewing Co., OR). Although this is not a traditional warm-weather seasonal release, the folks at Full Sail love to shake things up and push boundaries. Despite the style name, this is a well-balanced and crisp selection that’s not overly bitter or strong for summer enjoyment. Sure, the bitter hop aromas and flavors of citrus oil, pine resin and pressed yellow flowers are noticeable throughout, but they’re not overdone and they remain balanced by a solid caramel-malt core. Medium bodied, with ample carbonation and a dry finish. abv: 6.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

89 Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA (Ameri-can IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). Part

of the Hop-ology 12-pack but now also sold in sixers on its own now, Latitude 48 IPA is a playful selection that’s brewed with hops from top growing regions lo-cated along (or close to) the 48th latitude. The result is a flavorful yet surprisingly drinkable IPA, with medi-um-intense hop-derived notes of orange pith, pine and resin supported by a lightly toasted caramel-malt core. Touches of pepper and citrus pith linger on the finish, which ends dry and slightly bitter.abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

88 Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale (Ameri-can Blonde Ale; Deschutes Brewery,

OR). Deschutes’s summer seasonal ale is a refreshing blonde that offers upfront aromas of grass, apricot and slightly resinous hops with light accents of clean grain and light caramel. Although this is brewed with five dif-ferent hop varieties, they only dominate the bouquet —the palate showcases a malt backbone and ripe stone-fruit flavors. Secondary hints of fresh-cut grass and hon-ey add depth and interest, and a soft bitterness lingers on the finish. abv: 5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

87 Avery Limited Release Karma Belgian-style Pale Ale (Belgian-style Pale Ale;

Avery Brewing Co., CO). Karma pours a slightly cloudy, light-orange color, with a good off-white head that fades quickly but leaves nice lacing behind with each sip. The malty aromas are direct, yielding forward scents of caramel, sweet citrus, red apple flesh and honey, along with yeasty accents of peppery spice and bubble gum. The palate boasts medium carbonation and lifted flavors of green apple and pear, while spicy accents return and remain through the medium-length close.abv: 5.4% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

W arm weather and long days spent outdoors call for thirst-quenching beverages that whet the palate

and provide refreshment. Many brewers understand this, and offer light, efferverscent styles as summer seasonal selections: lagers, wheat beers, extra pale ales and the like.

But with rampant experimentation in the domestic craft-beer industry and the open-mindedness of today’s craft-beer drinkers, some breweries are bottling alternatives for summer enjoyment.

These new releases offer intense aromas and robust flavors while maintaining their balance and approachability. Deschutes’s Twilight Summer Ale and Full Sail’s ESB are great examples.

Even traditional styles vary these days, as brewers experiment with cross-styling. First

was the colored IPA craze (black, white, red), but the style lines are continually being blurred. One example is Samuel Adams’s new release, the Double Agent IPL, a mash-up of a lager and an IPA that combines the crispness of a lager with forward hop aromas.

That said, if “the lighter, the better” is your summer mantra, this month’s reviews include several lagers. From light and mild to robust and roasty, whatever your preference, we’ve got you covered.

So soak up the sun and enjoy these summer-ready brews while the time is right. And, as always, don’t forget to check out our full review database at buyingguide.winemag.com for even more brews to satisfy your summer sipping needs.

Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

Beer

a summer sampler

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