BRIAN’S GREAT RAILWAY JOURNEY

EARLY SPRING IN BATH - FEBRUARY 2019

The first signs of spring showed themselves in Maxwell Park at the beginning of February.   It was time to plan my next rail journey !!    I had not completed a blog since September.   I allowed myself to feel flattered when “one or two people” asked where I was going to next.   I remembered that my younger daughter had spent a few days in Bath in early January and she had been immensely impressed.     Having consulted my good friend “Trainline”, I decided to travel to Bath by early train on Tuesday 19 February, spend the whole of Wednesday there, and return after lunch on the Thursday.     This allowed me to take advantage of cheap rail tickets and “Winter Midweek Break” terms in a local hotel.    Appropriate bookings were duly made.     I would leave Central at 8am, and after changing trains at Birmingham New Street and Bristol Temple Meads, I would arrive at Bath Spa at 2.11pm.  For those of you who like to see the type of trains on which I travelled, the journey to Birmingham was by Virgin (1), to Bristol by Crosscountry (2), and finally to Bath Spa by Great Western Railway (3) - a kind fellow traveller took this photo of me as I was poised to capture my train leaving Bath Spa station with my shoe horn prominently sticking out of my rucksack.    Mags had

instructed me she wanted a clear photo of my famous shoe horn.     I have to admit this sight appears to amuse people with whom I come in contact on my travels.

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The Virgin train left on time.   I was armed with an array of delicacies purchased that morning from Marks and Spencer at Central Station - first for breakfast on leaving Glasgow, and secondly for lunch on leaving Birmingham.     A new addition - I carried a small flask of soup for lunch.   Coffee could be obtained from the trolley.      The weather was fine and I enjoyed watching the countryside passing as the trains smoothly made their way south.  I have described the scenery from Glasgow to Bristol in earlier blogs, so I do not propose rehearsing it again here.     Suffice to say that I particularly enjoyed the countryside as approached the Border, the Lake District, and north and south of Cheltenham.   The industrial midlands are not particularly beautiful !!

All the trains ran to time and I managed the short connections at Birmingham and Bristol Temple Meads without incident.      The GWR train arrived at Bath Spa on time at 2.11pm.     I walked the relatively short distance to my hotel to deposit my rucksack so that I could start my sightseeing.

It was obvious I could not “do” all the historical sites, exhibitions, galleries, and buildings available to me in the relatively short time available.   I was content to pick and choose.     I had consulted with Heather about a possible programme.      She advised that, from her experience, my time would be best used if I included Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths, the Pump Room, Royal Circus, Jane Austen’s House, Pulteney Bridge, Great Pulteney Street and Parade Gardens.     The whole city could be viewed by going on the “Hop On Hop Off” Sightseeing Tour.   I am sure you have seen these red open top buses which are available in most cities, including Glasgow.     Having consulted “Google” this seemed good advice and I planned accordingly

The hotel helpfully provided a map of the City Centre, where most of the sights are to be found.  After depositing my rucksack in a clean, airy and comfortable room, I set off to get to enjoy what was left of the day.

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BATH ABBEY - This magnificent building, adjacent to my hotel, dominates the heart of the city.    The present building is the third building to stand on this spot.   Originally there was a monastery. The present building dates from the early 16th century when  a new abbey was commissioned.  It was the last medieval cathedral to be built in England.   At night, with the lights on inside, it can be clearly seen from the tops of the hills surrounding Bath, earning the local nickname of “ The Lantern of the West “.    Photo (4) shows the front entrance and photo (5) the side of the Abbey.   

Quite magnificent architecture !!   “What’s wrong with Sherbrooke Mosspark?”  I hear you say.   I must confess I feel our church stands high in my list of beautiful churches in this world.

THE ROMAN BATHS - undoubtedly the most famous building in the City.     One has to pay an admission charge to witness this incredible scene.   We were told that the very first bathing amenity was established alongside and around Bath’s natural hot springs in the first century AD.   Nowadays, nearly 2000 years later, a cluster of historic highlights include the Roman

Bath House, the Sacred Spring, and the remains of the Roman Temple - I say “remains” because very little resembling a Temple could be seen.

The view outside the Baths is fairly modern (6).    I was advised there used to be a spring  beside the entrance where one could sample the thermal waters.     This has been stopped for Health and

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Safely reasons.   Having entered the building and paid the admission fee, I immediately stepped outside onto the balcony above the “Great Bath”(7). 

 

This is a well known scene.   It is here that the only thermal springs in the UK emerge from deep underground..   A photo taken from the guidebook shows the exact position of the Great Bath adjacent to Bath Abbey (8) - better than I could do !!

I then went downstairs and was photographed beside the Great Bath at ground level (9).   I moved to the Sacred Spring (10), where you can see, with the naked eye, the surface of the water breaking with the spring water coming fro below.       Adjacent was the steam room

(11), where the Roman equivalent of a sauna could be enjoyed. It is hard to imagine that this restored site now faithfully portrays the scene in Roman times.    

I ended up in the Pump Room(12), which is now a tea room.    This was where, in Georgian times, Bath Society gathered to meet and drink

the waters.    There is a fountain (13), from which, if you wish, you can

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sample the water.     Standing what I was told about the tap outside, I declined !!

It was time to return to my hotel to prepare myself for the rigours of the morrow !!

WEDNESDAY dawned warm and fair.    After an excellent help youself breakfast I set out, without a coat, for Royal Crescent.  My guide book told me that, with its 114 Iconic columns, honey coloured stone and perfect curved symmetry spanning 150 metres, the Royal Crescent is one of the most majestic examples of 18th-century Palladium- style architecture in the UK.     On completion, the Crescent became one of the most sought after addresses in the city.   With the Assembly Rooms and thermal waters open to the public, Bath became a centre for the leisured classes to take the waters, socialise, gamble and purvey the marriage market.    To be seen in Bath, and in particular the Royal Crescent and adjacent Royal Circus, was considered highly desirable.

Currently, of the Crescent’s 30 townhouses, 10 are still full-size houses, 18 have been split into flats of various sizes, one is the Royal Crescent museum, and the two central houses with the entrance at number 16 is the very splendid and very expensive Royal Crescent Hotel.

I passed Royal Circus (14).     I walked on to Royal Crescent and on arrival took a photo of the wonderful sight which greeted me(15).   I then moved opposite the entrance to One Royal Crescent(16).  

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I decided to visit the Museum there.   It professed to give its visitors a glimpse of life for the privileged classes at the end of the 18th century when the owner was one Henry Sandford.    I was much fussed over by the positive army of “volunteers”, one of whom was in charge of each room.    As there were few visitors shortly after ten o’clock, they had nothing better to do than explain in detail to me every part of the exhibition and tend to my every need.   There are twelve volunteers on duty at one time.  Each one is  on duty for one half day a week.    They clearly love their job and the building itself.   It was a smaller version of Pollok House.     I found it fascinating.

The first room was the “Parlour”(17).  This was the family room, a comfortable and private space used for everyday activities.   Breakfast was an informal meal often taken in the parlour on a breakfast table which could then be folded away.

N e x t w a s t h e “Gentleman’s Retreat” (18).   This was a sanctuary where a cultured Georgian might indulge his own cultural interests,  whatever they might be !!    

I was then led to the “Dining Room”(19).   My “ volunteer” suddenly realised that I might be slightly uncomfortable standing while I was provided with a mountain of information in each room, so a collapsable chair was provided.  I continued to give my charming hosts my full attention.     As you can see, this was a truly delightful room, where it would have been a real pleasure to dine.

I was then escorted upstairs by two “volunteers”, one of whom hung onto my left arm, one the other came behind with her outstretched hands on my back in case I fell backwards !!     I can just imagine Christine providing the same service at home !!   

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We reached the “Withdrawing Room”(20).    This elegant room, I was told, was at the time the height of fashion and taste.     The Ladies took tea( not coffee)here after withdrawing from dinner and leaving the men to their port !!     After a suitable interval of time, I understood, the gentlemen would join them.

I was then invited to inspect the “Lady’s Bedroom” (21) a n d t h e “ G e n t l e m a n ’s B e d r o o m “ ( 2 2 ) .   N o comment !!    Interestingly, the view from the Lady’s Bedroom, which was at the front of the house, was of the distant countryside, while the view from the

Gentleman’s Bedroom, which was at the side of the house, was of the Royal Crescent(23).

I then, still with my two “attendants”, had to make my way down the back stairs to the kitchen and servants’ quarters.     I am seen sitting supervising the cooking at the kitchen range.(24).

I returned with my “minders” to the front door, where, after many expressions of goodwill, I was finally released from their care.     I really enjoyed this exhibition which gave one an insight into life  in more leisured times.    I think I might have fitted in there !!   

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JANE AUSTEN’S HOUSE - 40 Gay Street, Bath was about a ten minute walk for me from Royal Circus.     I was confronted at the door by a very attractive young lady in regency costume.     I stood beside her and asked a passer by to take a picture of us (25).     She seemed wholly uninterested in my attempts at conversation - not entirely unusual - and she kept looking away from me.    It was only after the passer by had returned my camera that I realised “she” was a statue   -   I must be getting old !!

I entered the house without further ado and duly paid my admission money.     I was flattered when the young lady at the desk asked me “Are you a concession ?”.        I was informed that the next guided tour began in eight minutes.  There were about ten of us in the “waiting room “ when the eight minutes expired.    As I waited,  I noticed two interesting quotations on the walls about Jane Austen.   The first, attributed to Sir Walter Scott - “That young lady has a talent for describing the involvements and feelings of characters of ordinary life, which is to me the most wonderful I have ever met with”.      The second, attributed to George Henry Lewis -“ Such art as hers can never grow old, never be superseded”.     Fine tributes indeed.

Our guide arrived and told us that Jane Austen is perhaps the best known and best loved of Bath’s many famous residents.   She made two long visits to the city towards the end of the eighteenth century, and from 1801 to 1806 Bath was her home.     Her intimate knowledge of the city is reflected in two of her novels in particular, “Northanger Abbey” and “Persuasion”.      Our guide explained that the city remains much as Jane Austen knew it.    In “Northanger Abbey” on her arrival in Bath, we were told, the character Catherine exclaims “Oh, Who can ever be tired of Bath”.  While these two

of her novels are Bath based, the city is mentioned in every one of Jane’s works.

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Although Jane never had any children of her own, she often referred to her novels as such, once declaring “I am never too busy to think of “Sense and Sensibility”.    I can no more forget it than a mother can forget her suckling child.”    At another time she referred to “Pride and Prejudice” as “my own darling child”.   Since 1833 none of her novels have ever been out of print.  38 million copies of “Pride and Prejudice “ have been sold worldwide.

For my own part, I have greatly enjoyed the relatively recent TV productions of “Pride and Prejudice” and “Sense and Sensibility”.    Indeed, such was my enjoyment that I afterwards read both books again.      It was quite different reading those books because I wanted to as opposed to being obliged to as prescribed home reading at school.    You may have similar sentiments.

We were given much further information by our delightful guide, which I shall not trouble you with now - they can be read on the website.   We were left to wander round the exhibition.    I attach photos of the following - Waxwork model of Jane Austen (26);  Her writing place (27), portrait of Colin Firth as Mr Darcy (28); Table with card games (29).

Jane Austen is one of Bath’s favourite daughters and this exhibition, I thought, was a fitting tribute to her.

HOP ON HOP OFF BUS TOUR - it was now well after lunchtime  and I was beginning to feel I had been on my feet long enough for one day.    It was a lot colder.    I returned to my hotel for my anorak and then caught the bus just outside my hotel.  

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Just before I did so I took a photo of the Parade Gardens (30)’ which again were adjacent.     I calculated the only places on Heather’s list which I had

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covered were Pulteney Bridge (31) and Great Pulteney Street (32), which I photographed just after we set off.

I learned from the commentary that one William Johnston was a Scottish advocate who married a certain Frances Pulteney.   They moved to London and then Bath, where his wife inherited a large fortune.    William promptly changed his surname to Pulteney !!    They eventually owned most of the land on the east side of the River Avon, so in 1769 they commissioned another Scot, Robert Adam, to build a bridge over the river.   This was completed in 1774.   It was named after Frances Pulteney.  It is one of only four bridges in the world to have shops across its full span on both sides.

Great Pulteney Street, which was also named after Frances in view of her great wealth being used for its construction, is regarded as one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture in the city of Bath. (32)

I was able to secure a place in the front seat of the bus upstairs where it is covered.   There were only four people in the bus !!     It was wonderful to relax and enjoy the architecture of the City.   I think you have seen enough photos of Georgian architecture, but if you want more you can google the Bath website.     Finally, to assure you that the Gardens are just a fine as the buildings, I attach a photo of part of the Botanic Gardens taken from the top of the bus. (33)

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I returned to the hotel satiated with the magnificence of the City.    I hope the photos and what I have written give you an insight into the City and might perhaps encourage you to give it a visit.     All the interesting sights are close together, so I imagine the City Centre will get very busy in the summer.   Best to go off season, as I did.

I dined well at an interesting restaurant called “ Loch Fyne”.   It specialises in fish and it turned out they get their supplies through the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar near Inveraray, an establishment which may be known to you.

THURSDAY morning I slept late.  After another fine breakfast I strolled round the centre of Bath, enjoying the atmosphere to the full.     I had an early lunch of tea and a clotted cream scone in a delightful old fashioned tea room.   All too soon it was time to report to the train station to catch the 1.01 pm GWR train to Bristol.   It and my Crosscountry train to Birmingham we’re both exactly on time, but sadly perfection was denied me - the Virgin train to Glasgow when it arrived at 7.23pm was one minute late !!

For me, a great start to the travelling season.   I hope you enjoy reading about Bath.

Brian

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