BreadHeatIssue 4:

GOOD BREAD is quite simple: It gets madewhen a skilled craftsperson—using flour milledby a skilled miller—takes all the time she needsto make bread the way it has been made forcenturies.

Without rushing the process.

GOOD BREAD is an every day treat. A dailybread that not only feeds the hungry but bringsa smile to his face.

Good bread ties us to the tradition of thegenerations that came before us, and keepsbonding us closer to those who live with ustoday.

Good bread is baked with love, for thepeople most precious to us.

THIS IS A MAGAZINE about good bread.Made by people who love bread, for peoplewho love bread.

And who make bread.BREAD

CONTENTS3 WELCOME!A few words from the editor.

6 THE OVENA look at four ovens used by real peoplewho bake real bread.

11 OVENS THAT BUILD COMMUNITYCommunity ovens are coming back—withthe help of inspired groups of peoplearound the world.

27 HEAT SCIENCEIn the oven, dough transforms into bread.But how does this happen?

35 THE LOAF IN A BOXIn the summer of 2012, San Sebastián wasthe home for a pop-up bakery designedfor learning and sharing bread inspiration.

42 OVEN HACKSTweaks and ideas that will help you getthe most out of your home oven.

49 BAKER ON A MISSIONTom Baker runs a bakery and cookeryschool devoted to promoting real foodand healthy living, and buildingcommunity through food.

57 BREAD FOR CHRISTMASA recipe for a loaf fit for the Christmastable.

62 THE NO PLAN OVENWhat happens when four brothers decideto build an oven—without a plan?

68 YEAR TWOA look into the second year of Bread. *

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WELCOME!SHAPING BREAD IS NOT EASY.

I am sure we have all been there:uneven baguettes, boules that won't keeptheir shapes, and so on. But just as inevery part of this craft, practice—guidedby some good instructions—always getsyou to the results you are looking for.

As I was preparing the first draft for thecontents of this issue of Bread, an idea foran article came to mind, and I wrote itdown. Shaping Bread*. That was when itcrossed my mind: it's not just the bakerwho shapes bread. Shaping also happensthe other way round.

The baker is shaped by his or her breadevery day.

A BIG PART OF THE beauty of breadmaking lies in the fact that you can't rushit.

To master the craft, you have to learnto wait and read the dough: Has the flourbeen hydrated for long enough? How

long should the fermentation still be leftto go on? Is the dough strong enough ordoes it need one more stretch and fold?

And it's not just the dough.You also learn to look for cues on how

the weather will affect your bread. Lookingat the temperature and feeling the level ofhumidity in the kitchen make you moreaware of your surroundings.

IN ALL, baking bread is a fine exercise inslowing down and using all of our senses:smelling the dough, touching it, tastingthe sourness of your starter, and simplylooking at how the bread looks like at allthe different steps of the process.

Bread shapes us. And that's good.

About the magazineBREAD IS A MAGAZINE for people wholove and make great bread. It is all aboutbread and the people who make it.

Bread December 2012 3

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Instead of sharing lots of recipes, themagazine focuses on what counts: helpingyou better understand the process ofbread making, encouraging you to learnby doing, and sharing stories andinterviews that inspire you to dig deeperinto bread.

AS A MICRO MAGAZINE—a focusedmagazine made by a very small, dedicatedteam of one for a devoted audience—Bread is not for everyone.

But if seeing a beautiful loaf of breadmakes your heart smile and sticking yourhands into dough sounds like a great wayto spend a Saturday evening, I believe it isfor you.

About this editionIN THIS ISSUE, our main focus is on heat—or in other words, the oven.

In a way, an oven is nothing but asimple appliance that generates andstores heat so that it can be used forcooking. In this issue, we will look at whathappens in the oven and how you canprepare your bread (and the oven) to getthe best results possible with the tools youhave at hand.

But there is something more to theoven. Throughout the years, the oven has

been the heart of the community, be it abig family home in Finland or an entirevillage in the French Provence.

Although most of us today bake breadin regular electric or gas ovens, a woodfired oven still stirs some emotions deepin our hearts. And as we will see in thestory about community ovens, they stillhave the power to bring people together.

I hope you will enjoy the journey intoheat and maybe learn a thing or two.

Share and talk backIF YOU HAVE ANY FEEDBACK orquestions, don’t hesitate to send me anote at contact@insanelyinterested.com. Itry to answer all the email I get.

Also, if you have friends, neighbors orrelatives who you think would enjoyreading the magazine, pass them a copy—in person, through Facebook, Twitter orany means of communication you like touse.

THANKS FOR READING, and withChristmas just behind the corner, I wishyou happy holidays and a lot of baking in2013!

—Jarkko Laine, editor and publisher

Bread December 2012 4

SHARE AWAYAS YOU READ THE MAGAZINE, you willnotice that at the beginning of everyarticle, there is a small button that lookslike this:

IN CASE you are wondering, it's a sharebutton, and here is how it works.

1. CLICK.When you click on the link,the article opens up on a web page inyour web browser—as a version optimizedfor the web and sharing.

2. SHARE. The article on the web isfree to share without limitations, be it onFacebook, Twitter, email, or any way youlike.

Enjoy!

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THE OVENIN BREAD MAKING, heat usually means heatgenerated in an oven, whether big or small,heated with electricity, gas or wood fire.

Our ovens are all different, and a part oflearning to bake bread is getting to knowyour oven. This is why I asked three homebakers to share photos of their ovens andsome thoughts on what it is like to bake inthem.

Enjoy! And if you like the idea, you canadd to the gallery by sharing your oven on themagazine's Facebook timeline!

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Bread December 2012 7

"I BUILT A SMALL wood-fired oven threeyears ago so I could bake bread duringthe hot summer months. I made it withsalvaged, recycled and purchasedmaterial, quite inexpensively.

The oven is constructed in layers forheat absorption and retention, with aninsulating layer of glass bottles in a perliteand mud mix, topped by a heat mass ofslabs of brick wall.

The granite hearth and fireclay domesit atop this base.

"IT IS HARDER AND MORE FUN fun tobake bread in a wood fired oven, as firebuilding must be added to the bakingschedule.

Since I sited my oven a distance fromthe house for safety reasons, I do a lot ofrunning back and forth while baking.

What makes it completely worthwhileto me is the quality of the resulting bread—the hot floor and radiant heat producegreat oven-spring and deeply brownedcrusts.

My primitive wood-fired oven iscompletely suited to making that mostbasic of foods—bread."

VARDA HAIMO

Bread December 2012 8

THIS DOUBLE OVEN is the heart of thesmall home baking business that PhilippaWinstanley started just three months ago.

She bakes baguettes, ciabattas,sourdough loaves, malthouse and whiteloaves as well as weekly specials. She saysshe is living her dream, spreading her lovefor bread—and loving every minute.

The two sides of the oven both havetheir own personalities. "I have totally gotused to it now though, as you have to withall ovens," Winstanley says. "The leftdoesn't seem to get as hot as the right, soI generally have to knock off a couple ofminutes baking for loaves done in theright. I also use the left as a mini prover forsourdoughs overnight sometimes if mykitchen is extra cold."

FOR A BAKERY BUSINESS, a double ovenis a life saver: "It's all a bit mad on bakeday and both ovens are going most of themorning, but I certainly could not do whatI do without the double oven I have."Winstanley says.

PHILIPPAWINSTANLEY

Bread December 2012 9

"MY OVEN IS WHAT I would consider anaverage household oven found in mosthomes in America.

I purchased the oven before I beganany serious baking, never knowing I woulduse it to such an extent. To improve itsprecision, I keep a baking stone on thebottom rack at all times to help with heatretention and I regularly employ aremovable thermometer to ensuretemperature accuracy, which makes for aninexpensive upgrade.

I am passionate about bread baking,and although I do cook and bake otherthings, rarely does a day go by that myoven isn't attending to at least one loaf ofbread.

"ALTHOUGH MY OVEN IS HUMBLE anddoesn't possess frills, I have learned tobake some amazing things in it, which isproof positive that all I need to bake greatbread is passion for the craft, a fewingredients, and my oven."

MELANIECHRISTOPHERSON

Bread December 2012 10

LOOKING AT these three ovens, I realizethey all look different from mine.

My oven is a very basic electric oven,the kind that you will find in most Finnishhomes. It comes with a convection modeand a timer, but apart from that is just abasic oven.

But it's my oven. The oven that I haveused to practice everything I know aboutbaking bread.

THE OVEN was there when we bought ourapartment so I didn't pick it, but it works.

And this, I believe, is the biggesttakeaway from this series of ovens: peoplebake great bread in all kinds of ovens.

Some ovens are like mine and get alittle bit hotter at the back than the frontand leak some steam when you try tokeep your loaves moist. Others have theirown, unique quirks.

What makes the biggest difference islearning to live with the oven and its goodand bad—through clever tweaks andpractices.

WHAT DO YOU like about your oven?

JARKKO LAINE

OVENS THAT BUILDCOMMUNITY

Bread December 2012 12

WHERE DO WE GO when it is time tospend a few hours and meet and makefriends?

The answer proposed by most of thewestern society is a combination of cafés,restaurants, movie theaters and air-conditioned shopping centers. All of themspaces built around the consumption ofmoney and operating under rules set bythe owner and not the community thatuses them. In today’s cities, libraries aresome of the last places where you canspend time without having to open yourwallet—and in libraries, you need toremain quiet.

As Bryce Johnson, pastor and one ofthe oven builders we will meet in this

article says: "We have a lack of publicspaces for people to just be together andshare in fellowship."

FOR A GROWING NUMBER of people,third places run by profit maximizingbusinesses are not enough. While theyenjoy a good cup of coffee just as the nextperson, they want more options.

This do-it-yourself—or better yet—do-it-together movement of looselyorganized groups of people is changingour cities through initiatives such asRestaurant Day and urban farming.

IN "THE BREAD BUILDERS", Daniel Wingtells about how "after the revolution most

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French rural ovens became publicproperty (owned by the municipality, thecommune)."

These ovens were used by the villages'families, each baking once a week or onceevery other week.

Wing continues: "The dough wasproofed at home, then carried to the ovenon a long wide board. The loaves goinginto the oven were slashed with distinctpatterns so each family got back its own—really its own, since the grain from which itwas made was grown on their farm."

In that time, although not free to use,community ovens were some of the mostimportant third places: places where youwould meet neighbors and discusspolitics.

Times changed and people lost touchwith these traditions. But maybe they canchange again, taking just the bestelements from the past and building onthem? In this article, we are about to meetthree groups of people who are gettingtogether to build ovens and bake bread orpizza—and to build a stronger community.

Helsinki, FinlandIN 2010, KATHARINA MOEBUS wasfinishing her master's studies at theUniversity of Art and Design in Helsinki.

As a part of her thesis work, sheneeded to find a place for baking breadtogether. She could not find one, and in acity you can't set up fire just anywhere youlike, so she started exploring thepossibility of building the oven herself.

Through a friend, Moebus heard aboutKalasatama Temporary, a city initiative forexperimentation through urban designprojects in a temporary location soon tobe replaced by new city development.

"After visiting the location, it was clearit would be perfect—being a constructionsite, nobody from the city would reallycare too much about regulations. Also,there was some nice underground culturalactivities going on through the provisionof empty shipping containers open to allsorts of institutions and organizations."Moebus says.

FINDING A LOCATION was just thebeginning. To make the project cometrue, Moebus needed other people's help.

She put up a post on the web site ofPublic School Helsinki, an educationalplatform that connects people who wantto teach and learn in alternative ways, andfound the group of people she now refersto as "the gang."

"Two persons from the gang—Salla

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and Tanja—had participated in cob ovenworkshops in Germany and the UK before.Their previous experience was a greatencouragement to just try it out." Moebussays.

A GOOGLE SEARCH brought the gang toSimon Brookes's web site and to his e-book that describes the process of makinga clay oven in great detail.

Equipped with this information andideas collected at a planning workshop,the gang was ready to get to work.

The oven, which they nicknamed"Archie" was built in one weekend for aprice of a mere 80 Euros—thanks to cleverreuse of recycled bricks, sand fromconstruction sites and clay from the forest.The only materials that the group neededto buy as new were the food proof firebricks from a hardware store.

"It was surprising how well it all went!"Moebus says.

ALTHOUGH THE OVEN was initiallycreated with a specific food event in mind,the group soon decided to make itavailable for anyone interested in bakingin it.

"We established a blog withinstructions and a calendar function.

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People could contact us for questions andreservations through a general emailaddress to which we all had access."Moebus says.

There was a good amount of interest,and a lot of pizza was baked. Some breadas well, but mostly pizza.

"Pizza is such a convivial food thattastes best from an oven such as this thatit was probably one of the most favoreddishes baked during the oven's life span."Moebus explains.

Sarah Alden, another member from thegang, agrees.

"I enjoyed the playfulness andspiritedness of gatherings there, and howhumble I often felt, so amazed that ourclay oven could 'spit out' such a variety ofdelicious food. I remember the first pizzaswe made as the best pizza I've evereaten," she says.

ARCHIE WAS NEVER MEANT to last fordecades. The location was temporary andthe goal was more in experimentationthan lasting impact.

But the oven was sturdy and, even inFinland's harsh weather, lasted for two fullyears—longer than the team hadexpected—before it was destroyedbeyond repair.

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"I enjoyed theplayfulness andspiritedness ofgatherings there,and how humbleI often felt, soamazed that ourclay oven couldspit out such avariety ofdelicious food."

"We didn't even think it would survivethe first winter." Moebus recalls.

So, when the oven broke down, theteam felt it was time to move on. Theplace surrounding the oven had changeda lot over the two year period and newovens had just been built at two newlocations in Helsinki.

And even Archie got a good finalresting place: "Archie's remains havebeen turned into a grill by one of its users,so we're happy somebody came up with anice idea." Moebus says.

White Bear Lake, MinnesotaTO GET TO THE NEXT OVEN on ourjourney, we need to travel 5,000 miles(8,000 kilometers) west from Helsinki, allthe way to White Bear Lake, Minnesotawhere Bryce Johnson leads White BearLake United Methodist Church.

Johnson is the pastor for a vibrantcongregation, but having baked sincecollege, he is also a man with a strongpassion for bread. As his bio on thechurch’s web site explains it: "Bryce'savocation is bread baking and brick ovens;his vocation is connecting people toJesus, 'the bread of life.'"

IN 2002, Johnson attended a four day

oven building class taught by Alan Scott—and built an oven in his backyard. Duringthe course, Scott spoke about communitybread ovens, and a seed that would oneday lead to building a beautiful oven inthe church yard was planted in Johnson'sheart.

Six years later, it was time for the nextstep: "I applied for a Clergy Sabbaticalgrant through the Lilly Endowment, Inc. in2008. Their application began with onesimple question: 'What will make yourhear sing?'" Johnson says.

The answer was easy: bread making.

JOHNSON PROPOSED a three monthsabbatical focusing on Jesus's phrase,"the bread of life," through learning tobake artisan bread in Italy and France andvisiting ancient communal ovens.

"In Europe (and throughout much ofthe world) communal ovens were locatedat the center of the village. It was agathering place where family news wasshared and politics discussed. We have alack of public spaces for people to just betogether and share in fellowship."Johnson says.

And so, when Johnson returned homefrom his sabbatical, he had a plan to builda community oven for the church.

Bread December 2012 17

"Archie's remainshave been turnedinto a grill by oneof its users, so we’rehappy somebodycame up with anice idea."

Bread December 2012 19

"At church, it was an easy sell. Peopleloved the idea and we had over 40 peopleinvolved in the construction." he recalls.

TODAY, THE OVEN IS a central part in thelife of the church—known as the "breadchurch" in the White Bear Lake area:

The oven is featured on their web site.Community bake days are organized

on the first Saturday of each month.The communion bread used in the

church is baked in the oven.And every Sunday, the congregation

shares brick oven bread to first-timevisitors.

BUT BAKING BREAD IN a communityoven is not something modern citydwellers are familiar with, so the churchhas had to come up with new ways to helppeople make the most out of the oven.

"We have developed a solid core ofavid bakers who gather on bake days buthave found that we need to find ways tosimplify this for the less experienced."Johnson says.

To address this issue, the church hascreated a new activity called "Bake &Take" where dough is prepared inadvance and participants get to start rightfrom shaping the dough.

A DAY AT THE OVEN

FRIDAY 5 P.M:Volunteer starts the fire.

FRIDAY 10 P.M:Volunteer returns to stoke the fire.

The fire burns overnight.

SATURDAY 12 noon:Bake day leaders arrive to clean out theash from the oven, check temperature andset up for the arrival of bakers.

BAKING SESSIONS at 2, 3, and 4 P.M.:20 loaves are baked at each session.Participants can bring two loaves forbaking. It is common for bakers to share aportion of one loaf with others and takethe other loaf home for dinner.

After the final bake, participants helpclean up and the oven is closed.

"We havedeveloped a solidcore of avid bakerswho gather onbake days but havefound that we needto find ways tosimplify this for theless experienced."

Bread December 2012 20

"When they arrive, we teachparticipants to shape the dough. While itis rising, we share the recipe and talkthrough the bread making process. Whenthe dough is ready to bake, they get toput it on the peel and into the oven. Whenit is all done, they get to take home a loafof brick oven bread." Johnson explains.

ONE OF THE BEST EXPERIENCES at theoven for Johnson has been helpingCatholic Charities in Minneapolis in their10 week Culinary Skills Job Trainingprogram for the poor and unemployed.

"In the eighth week of that program,we offer a bread class at the church."Johnson says.

"I partner with a former professionalbaker and we teach basic bread makingand then bake in the community oven. It issuch a joy to work side by side with thesefolks. They are eager to learn. At the closeof the class we break bread." Johnsonsays, and adds that more than half of theparticipants in the program find work afterthe program.

In the future, he hopes to continue tofoster more partnerships withorganizations in their community.

"Specifically, we want to bring in youthgroups and adult groups to make and

bake bread which will be distributedthrough the local food shelf and free mealprograms for the hungry. The oven is alsogreat for pizza events. We are hoping tooffer regular pizza nights during thesummer."

MAINTAINING A COMMUNITY OVEN is alot of work, but Johnson's words make mebelieve it is well worth the effort:

"Bread and wood-fired ovens connectme to the earth. It keeps me grounded insimplicity and the rhythm of life. And as aspiritual person, it reminds the sacred ismost readily found in the ordinary."

Dartmouth, CanadaWHILE ARCHIE IN HELSINKI is alreadyhistory and the White Bear Lake oven hasbeen in active use for a couple of years,Park Avenue Community Oven inDartmouth, Canada is brand new.

It got its first firing on September 22,2012 and the team is just getting up to fullspeed.

THE TEAM'S MEMBERS found each otherthrough word of mouth and Facebook,and inspired by ovens in parks aroundCanada—such as Dufferin Grove Park inToronto, they decided to build an oven in

their home town.The oven became a part of Dartmouth

Commons, an area of approximately 300acres of land dedicated for common useand strictly regulated since late 18thcentury.

"We felt that a community oven wouldcomplement and extend the activitiesaround the garden. Growing food as agroup and then baking together." saysLorrie Rand, one of the organizers of thePark Avenue Community Oven project.

"We want to get people out of theirhouses and into the parks. Lots of childrenuse the parks, we want to give everyone areason to come out."

BUILDING THE OVEN in DartmouthCommons meant that the team needed toinvolve city officials from the beginning.The municipal councillor and theSuperintendent of Parks supported theproject, which proved valuable whensome neighbors, unaware of what wasbeing built, opposed the project.

"Building on the Commons iscontentious as the Common is intendedas a protected green space but in the pastthe space has been encroached upon bybuildings. Most of these people are happywith the oven now." Rand says.

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"Bread and wood-fired ovens connectme to the earth. Itkeeps megrounded insimplicity and therhythm of life. Andas a spiritualperson, it remindsthe sacred is mostreadily found in theordinary."

AT FIRST, the team considered buildingthe oven themselves, but it soon becameclear that the oven required a shelter toprotect it from vandalism and the cold andsnowy winters of Nova Scotia, somethingthey didn't have enough expertise to buildthemselves.

They chose a skilled builder, GenaArthur, who has experience from buildingover 30 cob ovens and asked her to buildthe oven and a shelter for it.

"Since we wanted this to stay here for along time, we wanted it done right." Randsays.

WHILE THE OVEN WAS being built, theteam discussed the details of using theoven.

"We did a lot of talking about how theoven would work, how people would getaccess, what kinds of activities we'd do.But we didn't really have all of thisresolved before it was built, partlybecause nobody in the group had everactually used a cob oven." Rand says.

The plan was to have the oven finishedand ready for use during summer. Thisdidn't happen. Building the oven took alittle longer, but Rand is not sorry aboutthe delay:

"It turned out to be for the best as we

Bread December 2012

"We did a lot oftalking about howthe oven would work,how people wouldget access, whatkinds of activitieswe'd do. But wedidn't really have allof this resolvedbefore it was built,partly becausenobody in the grouphad ever actuallyused a cob oven."

were able to take the fall slowly to figureout what works for us. Fall is very beautifulhere and we were lucky."

And this first fall sure has been anactive time around the oven:

"Our plan was to use each weekend totrain people who will be able to staff theoven in the future and have open times forpeople to come and try baking. BetweenSeptember and this week [mid November]we only had one Saturday cancelled dueto rain. Participation grew each week untilit peaked on November 10. The next weekwas small, but quite a cold day. Acommunity has definitely started to growaround the oven with a number of familiesattending regularly."

NOW, IN DECEMBER, the oven more orless closes for winter. The temperaturesfall below zero degrees Celsius at night,meaning that it will take many hours toheat up the oven, so instead of trying tobake regularly, the team is planning tohost a few events—"Perhaps a Solsticeparty," Rand suggests—and otherwisefocus on planning for next spring's events.

"We will have a kick off party in thespring when we think it's nice enough out.Our spring can be very rainy and the areaaround the oven will need to be

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reasonably dry so that people can walkthere." Rand says, and continues to tellthat they already have a lot of ideas foractivities to do next season.

"We will continue to have weeklytraining sessions and open oven times.We also have some groups who may usethe oven for therapy programs, children'sevents. We will likely have a regular breadbaking day. We also want to do a series ofspecial events—possibly family dinners ormovie screenings. We have an idea aboutpartnering with local restaurants andhaving chefs come bake in the park."Rand lists the many ideas they have fornext year.

Winter is the time for decisions andformalizing the roles and responsibilitieswithin the team, and I can't help but thinkthat the future for Park AvenueCommunity Oven is looking bright—aslong as the team can keep up this level ofexcitement.

Is your home town next?AS THESE THREE EXAMPLES SHOW,building an oven for your community ispossible, even if getting started with onefeels overwhelming.

If you are excited about the idea, thefirst thing—as with any big project—is to

just get started. There is no right time, andif you keep waiting for one, the idea willnever turn into reality.

But getting started isn't all there is to it,so I asked the people behind these threeoven projects to share some tips on whereto start with building a community oven.

KATHARINA MOEBUS, who together withher gang built Archie, the temporary coboven in the middle of Helsinki, hascollected six steps that will help you makeyour oven building project come true:

1. Say out loud what you dream of.2. It’s worth sticking to crazy ideas.3. Collect the makers and start doing.Materials are almost free.4. Just google.5. Combine your knowledge for acollective intelligence.6. Enjoy the process.

MOST IMPORTANTLY though, asuccessful community oven project isabout people: the right team and the rightconnections.

First, you need to collect a group ofpeople interested in building and usingthe oven, whether it is through Twitter,Facebook or an organization you are a

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"Most importantlythough, a successfulcommunity ovenproject is aboutpeople: the rightteam and the rightconnections."

Bread December 2012 25

member of.It is important that the team shares a

common understanding of what they aretrying to achieve and is dedicated toputting in the necessary effort.

Lorrie Rand says: "A lot of people havedifferent visions for what the projectwould accomplish and how we'd use theoven. I'd suggest that everyone be veryclear about communicating their ideasand getting to some common ground."

IN ADDITION TO building the right team,you need to get in touch with localofficials.

"It is important to consult your localmunicipality, insurer and healthdepartment before proceeding. You don'twant to invest the time and money to findout later there are significant restrictions."Bryce Johnson says, and continues:

"Alan Scott, who was the pioneer ofbrick oven construction in this countrynoted that concerns over litigation havekept people and communities in the U.S.from building ovens.

"In our experience we found the localgovernment, health department andinsurer very helpful. They had somerestrictions and requirements we had tomeet, but all along they were supportive

of our effort."Moebus has had similar experiences:"We actually had a permission to build

Archie, from the city and the firedepartment. We even had to sign acontract to take over all responsibility. Itwas a bit of a struggle, but we appreciatethe city’s openness towards this project—they could have said no, after all! So itsurely is sometimes worth collaboratingwith city officials and getting necessarypermissions to prevent such a projectfrom being removed after a short time."

WHEN YOU HAVE the right people andconnections in place, the rest becomesrather straightforward—even though it stillis a lot of work.

Decide on the type of oven you aregoing to build, then look for instructionsor connect with someone who knows howto build one, and get to work.

"Start slow, we have a small groupdoing a lot of work and burning out is areal risk. We will be spreading the workaround more next season. Do lots ofresearch beforehand." Rand adds.

AND WHO KNOWS, maybe it is you whowill organize the next community ovenproject!

HEAT SCIENCEA WELL BAKED LOAF OF BREAD ismarked by a crisp, deep brown crust and acontrolled ripping from having risen insidethe oven—an effect known as "ovenspring." It is thoroughly baked. And ittastes delicious.

When you cut through the cooled loafof bread, you will notice that the bread isfull of holes, evenly distributed all aroundthe bread and not just the sides. This is asign that the heat from the oven has hadtime to reach the middle of the doughbefore crust formed and removed anyfurther opportunity for rising.

ALL OF THIS is of course a matter of tasteand only true for a specific type of bread,the self standing hearth bread that isbaked without the help of a baking tin.

That said, while I will focus on that type

of bread in this article, there are things tolearn even if a tin loaf is your choice ofpreference.

GETTING ALL of these elements rightbegins well before the dough goes intothe oven. The loaf needs to be strongenough to hold its form as it bakes and beproofed for just the right amount of timeso that the gas bubbles created byfermentation are readily availableeverywhere in the dough.

"A properly proofed loaf has gasthroughout that transfers the heatrelatively quickly, so heat is able to reachthe center of the loaf quickly, allowing gasat the center to participate in ovenspring." Emily Buehler writes in her book,Bread Science.

We talked about judging the readiness

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of a dough for baking already in theprevious issue of Bread, so this time wewill focus on what happens inside theoven.

Let's take a look.

THE EVENTS THAT TAKE PLACE in thedough as it turns into bread can beorganized on a timeline by the rise in theinside temperature of the dough.

When the dough enters the oven, it isat about room temperature or maybe a bitbelow, if it has been retarded in therefrigerator before baking. But when youplace it on top of a hot baking stone orhearth, heat starts to flow into the dough.

This happens through three differentmethods: conduction, where heat flowsfrom a hot object to a colder one ittouches, convection, where a fluid—in ourcase air—carries heat from a hot object toa colder one, and radiation, where heatflows directly from the heat source to theobject being heated without relying onphysical contact or a fluid.

WITH THE BREAD IN THE OVEN, let'stake a look at what happens to it duringthe bake.

Oven SpringTHE FIRST 10 minutes that the bread sitsin the oven, when the dough is still softand a crust hasn't yet formed, are the timefor the most dramatic phase in baking thebread: the oven spring.

Before the yeasts inside the dough dieat about 60°C (140°F), they speed up,pumping more carbon dioxide in thedough and making it expand.

At the same time, as heat enters thedough, it makes the bubbles of carbondioxide expand—gases expand as theyheat—and push the dough, forcing thewhole loaf of bread to expand as well.

This effect is further enhanced by theexpansion of other gases such as watervapor and ethanol also present in thedough.

IN The Bread Builders, Daniel Wing writes:"About one-quarter of oven spring is

due to expansion of carbon dioxidealready in the cells; one-fifth is due tomigration of existing carbon dioxide intothe gas cells, and a little less than half isdue to boiling of alcohol into cells. Therest comes from steam generated insidethe loaf and from some additional carbondioxide produced in baking bread beforethe yeast is killed. This last doesn't

Bread December 2012 28

"The events thattake place in thedough as it turnsinto bread can beorganized on atimeline by the risein the insidetemperature of thedough."

Bread December 2012 29

contribute much to oven spring becausethere isn't much time for it to occur."

OVEN SPRING CONTINUES until thetemperature of the surface rises highenough to start forming a crust, or theinterior dough sets as a result ofdenaturation (more on this later).

If the oven is dry, crust comes first."The outer surface is where the dough

heats up fastest—once it dries out andcrust begins to form, the dough will notbe able to expand any further." Buehlerwrites.

BECAUSE OF THE HIGH water content ina bread dough, during a normal bakingtime for a loaf of bread, the temperatureinside the bread never rises above theboiling point of water: as water heats to100°C, it turns into water vapor, thuscooling the dough.

This way, for a while, water escapingfrom the dough as water vapor keeps thetop of the bread moist and cool,preventing the heat driven reactions fromproceeding too fast.

Because of this, keeping the top of theloaf from drying too fast will help youachieve maximum oven spring. That canbe done either by insulating the loaf and

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thus "re-using" the steam escaping fromthe bread or by introducing steam in theoven yourself.

“Steam condenses on the relativelycool dough, creating a layer of water onthe surface. At first, this provides a burstof heat to the dough; the water vaporcontained energy that is released as heatwhen the vapor condenses. Subsequently,the water layer cools the surface byevaporation. This slows crust formation,creating time for heat to reach the centerof the loaf and promote expansion.”Buehler writes.

ANOTHER IMPORTANT REQUIREMENTfor proper oven spring is heat.

As Wing writes: "If an oven too coolthe gas won’t boil out of the dough fastenough, water won’t boil and turn tosteam fast enough, and the pressure risein the dough won’t rise high enough toovercome the tendency for the loaf to sagand spread as it heats and thus getssofter."

CrumbAS THE DOUGH HEATS, starches andproteins go through changes that create—among other things—the moist andchewy yet solid crumb.

The first of such changes happens atabout 55°C (130-135°F) when gluten getshot and becomes softer and more plastic.This step is known as gelatinization orgelation depending on source.

"The starch gelates by absorbingnearby water molecules, some of whichwere being 'held' by proteins. This beginsat around 60°C (~140°F) and increases totemperatures around 80°C (~180°F),giving the bread the structure it needs."Buehler writes.

GASES IN THE DOUGH expand and growthe holes that were originally created bykneading and fermentation and that wesee when we cut through the bread.

Starting at around the temperature of74°C (160°F) proteins are denatured andlose their ability to trap the gases, whichthen escape the dough, leaving the holesbehind.

This is important, Buehler reminds,because "if they did not escape, theywould condense on cooling and the readwould collapse."

WHEN PROTEINS are denatured, theirphysical properties change. According toWing, "They lose flexibility, extensibility,and solubility, but remain elastic."

"Subsequently, thewater layer cools thesurface byevaporation. Thisslows crust formation,creating time for heatto reach the center ofthe loaf and promoteexpansion."

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This is the same reaction that isresponsible for eggs becoming hard-boiled as they cook.

"When the proteins are stiff enough, atabout 200 degrees Fahrenheit (95 degreesCelcius), gas cell expansion halts and thefinal shape of the loaf is set." Wing writes.

AFTER A WHILE, all of the dough shouldhave reached this state where dough haschanged from "a plastic paste to a semi-solid gel throughout the loaf." as Wingdescribes the process.

A sign for this, assuming that the loafhas been baked evenly, is the hollowsound when tapping the bottom of theloaf.

CrustAS I MENTIONED ABOVE, water, as itheats inside the dough, turns into steam,thus limiting the temperature of theinterior of the loaf at just below theboiling point of water.

The crust is the only part in the breadwhere the temperature rises higher.

AS DOUGH TEMPERATURE rises abovethe boiling point of water, enzyme-drivenreactions that convert starch into sugarsand proteins into amino acids increase,

releasing more sugar and flavorcompounds.

This sugar then breaks down andparticipates in the two types of chemicalreactions that produce the tasty andgood-looking crust we strive for in goodbread: Maillard reactions andcaramelization.

Maillard reactions, which were found in1953 to be responsible for most of thebrowning of the crust as well as flavor,start at about 120°C (250°F) andcaramelization at around 165°C (330°F).

STEAM COOLS THE DOUGH so bakingthe bread in a moist environment at thebeginning increases the time thatavailable for Maillard reactions, makingthe crust tastier, thicker and chewier.

“Steam’s cooling effect on the surfaceof the dough provides the moist, not-too-hot climate needed to keep enzymesworking. More steam creates a thickerlayer of water and allows more reactionsto occur; this results in more sugars andamino acids available for browningreactions and therefore makes a thickercrust.” Buehler writes.

If the crust stays pale, it can be a signof over-fermentation.

Andrew Whitley writes in Bread

"As doughtemperature risesabove the boilingpoint of water,enzyme-drivenreactions thatconvert starch intosugars and proteinsinto amino acidsincrease, releasingmore sugar andflavor compounds."

Matters:“A pale crust is usually a sign that there

was insufficient sugar left in the dough tosupport these reactions. This may bebecause the flour itself was deficient in theenzymes necessary to convert starch intomaltose (the main sugar involved).”

WHEN EVERYTHING happens at just theright time, you get a loaf of bread withgood oven spring, a pleasant crumb and abeautiful, crispy crust full of flavor.

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Bread December 2012 36

THE LOAF IN A BOXIN THE NORTHERNMOST part of Spainlies the city of San Sebastián—or Donostiaas it is called in Basque—a city with apicturesque shoreline that has made it adestination for tourists from all overEurope.

In the summer of 2012, from July to theend of September, the city had even moreto offer.

On July 1, a pop-up bakery built insidean old shipping container opened in apark at the heart of San Sebastián,bringing bakers and bread enthusiastsfrom around Spain together to share theirthoughts and recipes.

THE BAKERY, The Loaf —in a box—, was

an idea from local communication agency,La Salsera and baker and food writer DanLepard (author of The Handmade Loafand food columnist for the Britishnewspaper Guardian), who had beentoying with the idea of starting a bakery inSan Sebastián for a while.

EARLY IN PLANNING the project, theyinvolved Ibán Yarza, Lepard's good friend,journalist, self-taught baker, andpassionate promoter of good bread inSpain.

Yarza has translated The Hand-madeLoaf into Spanish (Hecho a mano),organizes baking courses and writes anumber of blogs on bread, food and good SHARE ···>

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Bread December 2012 37

living. He is also the founder of El foro delpan, the most important community forhome bakers in the Spanish language.

I DIDN'T HAVE a chance to visit The Loaf—in a box— in San Sebastián thissummer, but as I followed the project onFacebook and Twitter, I got theimpression that this project was all aboutgood living. With bread and the bakeryacting as a great excuse for bringingfriends together in discussion, laughter,and eating.

This was intentional, as the bakery wascreated mostly for learning, with an ideaof collecting ideas that could one day leadto opening a more permanent bakery.

Lepard, Yarza and La Salsera wanted itto be more than just a place for buyingbread—a place for learning about bread.

I ASKED IBÁN YARZA some questionsabout the project and what bread meansfor him. Enjoy!

Jarkko: One of your main goals with TheLoaf was learning—in one of the earlyvideos, Dan Lepard explains the vision ofhow you want to hear what people likeabout bread and what are the things thatinspire people. Can you tell a bit about

this? What were the key takeaway fromthe summer’s bread baking? Did you learnsomething new about bread?

Ibán: WELL, OF COURSE we did learn athing or two.

I would say that because of the natureof the project, people in San Sebastián(and in many senses throughout Spain) feltThe Loaf —in a box— was partly their ownproject.

They somehow felt that it was notabout Dan Lepard, or about baking adelicious and wholesome sourdough loaf,it was about sharing.

TO AN INCREDIBLE EXTENT, breadheadsand even people with no previousinclination towards bread gave us theirenthusiasm. The energy you could feel anyday, anytime inside those containers wasjust unique.

It won't happen again, it was simpleand pure love for bread.

I think we also learnt that people wantbread, that unfortunately there’s a bigaudience out there for good bread andmany times they feel like orphans.

Jarkko: During the summer, you hadmany bakers visiting you at The Loaf.

"As I followed theproject on Facebookand Twitter, I got theimpression that thisproject was all aboutgood living. Withbread and the bakeryacting as a greatexcuse for bringingfriends together indiscussion, laughter,and eating."

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What was the role of visiting bakers in theproject and what happened at thesevisits?

Ibán: THE BAKERY was indeed aboutbaking good bread, but I’d dare to saythat this was simply one third of theproject.

To pick just one, Dan's main inventionwas the "Extreme" loaf, a bread with atiny percentage of sourdough starter thatchallenges what many bakers and classichandbooks on baking say.

But beyond and above making bread,it was communicating bread what movedus.

AS A WHOLE, The Loaf has been anenormous bread campaign, and guestbakers and volunteers have been anessential part in this process.

We had the honour of showcasingSpain’s finest bakers (the likes of AnnaBellsolà and Xavier Barriga among others).

They were pleased to come and seewhat we were doing, gave us their pointsof view and then flew to their hometownand spread our "mission".

And then there was the constant flowof volunteers, bakers, cooks, enthusiasts,home bakers who came to stay with us a

day, an hour, a week.

THAT FLOW of energy represents to agreat extent what the bakery was about.

Jarkko: The Loaf in a Box was closed inSeptember and your last blog post says,“Hasta pronto.” Does this mean that therewill be some form of continuation to theproject?

Ibán: THE LOAF —IN A BOX— was apop-up bakery, a one-off, it closed on30.9.2012 and it will never open its doorsagain in that shape.

Having said that, a bakery in a majorcity of the Basque Country has alwaysbeen in the mind both Dan and La Salsera(the 3 lovely lunatics behind the project).

Jarkko: You have been very active inencouraging people to start baking theirown bread in Spain. What is it aboutbread that gives you this passion?

Ibán: BREAD IS DIFFERENT, it is unique, itcan make you feel things you neverthought about.

The sense of achievement youexperience when you take a plump andcrusty sourdough loaf out of your home

"They were pleasedto come and seewhat we weredoing, gave us theirpoints of view andthen flew to theirhometown andspread ourmission."

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oven is simply unsurpassed. Cooking isgreat, you transform food; bread goesbeyond, it makes a super hero out of you,it gives you the power of changinghumble flour and water into somethingalive that bears no resemblance to theoriginal ingredients.

The moment you grasp a rudimentaryunderstanding of the basics offermentation, your life is better: it simplyis.

BESIDES, BREAD TOUCHES so manyparts of life: it has to do with yourmemories (everyone has fond memoriesabout bread and their parents orgrandparents, or life as a child), breadseems to take us to a place of happinessinside of us; bread has to do with the mostbasic idea of sustenance, nutrition anddeliciousness; and last but no least, homebaking makes us want to share.

There is something about telling theones around you about baking—everyonewho has ever baked has felt this: Yousuddenly become a preacher,proselytizing and evangelizing aroundwith a loaf in your hand!

I basically try to explain this to people,and the best way to do it is getting thembaking bread.

IN A BROADER CONTEXT, in Spain breadhas gone through a really dark time (infact, we still suffer a deep crisis in thegeneral quality of bread; surprisingly,many people complain, but almost no oneseems to do anything about it).

So there’s a lot to be done.

Jarkko: What would be a typically Spanishkind of bread? If you can pick one… Andas a bonus, if there is a recipe, I wouldlove to try it and share it with my readers.

Ibán: SPAIN HAS BEEN a country of breadfor centuries.

Like in many other countries, bread haspermeated the culture and the language,so there is an endless number of breadsand bread-related recipes (here's a recipeand story that the lovely Johanna Kindvallillustrated last year on her beautiful blog).

IF THERE IS something like "Spanish"bread, that has to be pan candeal.

It is known with many names acrossSpain, and the variations are endless:bregado, sobado, de máquina,amacerado, español, etc.

Funnily enough, in some parts of thecountry, people just call it pan (bread), as

Bread December 2012 40

opposed to loaves with names, likebaguette, ciabatta, etc.

You can find it in most parts of thecountry (except the North and probablyNortheastern coast).

IT IS A DENSE (but not terribly heavy) loafthat uses a scant amount of water (say 40to 45% of the flour weight), not unlike theFrench pain brié.

This, together with rolling and foldingthe dough (with in turns helps develop thedough and creates its very particularstructure and white crumb) makes a goodpan candeal.

A CLASSIC RECIPE could be roughly:

500 g bread flour200-225 g water200-300 g stiff starter (whether sourdoughor yeasted ferment), same hydration asfinal dough (around 40-45%)10 g salt10 g yeast

THERE ARE a couple of key ideas for thisbread:

The mixing requires a heavy hand,since the dough will be really stiff: we aretalking about one of the stiffest doughs

you can handle. Knead for 10 minutes andthen proceed to fold and roll with a rollingpin for another 10 minutes.

In order to avoid the development of aholey crumb, there's no bulk fermentation(or hardly any); as soon as you are donefolding and rolling, you shape into around flat loaf.

Immediately after the loaf is formedyou score it (this is done now and not rightbefore the oven, as is done commonlywith most loaves). You can do a criss-crosspattern or simply create a pentagon with 5long and deep cuts about 3 cm from theedge of the loaf.

Ferment shortly, no need to doublevolume. Steam the oven and bake atmedium temperature (200ºC) for around40-45 minutes.

TRADITIONALLY, bakers and familieswould have bread stamps made up oflong pins in the most varied arrays to helpbread bake uniformly and also to create asignature and help identify each family'sloaves in a communal oven.

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MOST PEOPLE ARE USED to thinking thatbread that comes out of a home oven isdull looking, slightly flat, and can neverhave the lively and colorful crust of goodartisan bread.

Luckily, this is more myth than reality.While baking great bread in a home ovenmight not be as straightforward as bakinggreat bread in a bakery oven designed forbread making, with the help of a fewhacks—or small tweaks—here and there,you can bake bread that looks and tastesjust as good, if not better than a loafbought from your local baker.

In this article, I will go through some ofthe most useful yet easily applicable waysto get the most out of your home oven.

Let’s get started.

OVEN HACKS

Bread December 2012 43

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Get the temperature rightALL OVENS HAVE A SWITCH for settingthe temperature.

But when you set the oven to forexample 250°C (482°F), the realtemperature might be somethingdifferent.

Get to know your oven by measuringthe temperature of the oven with an oventhermometer as you heat it up and youcan adjust the temperature moreaccurately.

WHAT THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE foryour bread is depends on the type ofbread you are making, with enriched andsweet doughs requiring a lowertemperature than hearth loaves thatshould be baked at high temperatures ofabout 230°C (450°F).

It is also a good idea to pre-heat theoven to a higher temperature than this, forexample 260°C (500°F), before you put inthe bread. This way the oven temperaturewon't fall too low when you put in yourbread.

ANOTHER HEAT RELATED idea is to mapout the heat profile of your oven.

This way, you will know if your ovenheats unevenly, and can use the

information for example by rotating yourbread during the baking.

Mapping the heat profile can be donequite easily by heating the oven and thenplacing baking tray covered with a layer ofsliced white bread in the oven. After awhile, when the bread has browned, takeit out and see where the bread is darkerand where lighter.

Use a baking stoneTHE HOME OVEN is far from a stablebaking environment.

Compared to a masonry oven that canmaintain its heat for hours if not days, yourhome oven cools very quickly.

Open the door and slide in your breadand heat is lost. Put in a cool baking trayand the oven needs to heat it too. And soon.

Also, whereas a masonry oven radiatesheat at a consistent pace, cooling slowly,the regular thermostat-driven home ovencools and heats intermittently: only whenthe thermostat notices that thetemperature has gone below its pre-defined threshold, it starts heating again.

USING A GOOD baking stone will helpwith these issues by storing heat in theoven so that it can reheat more quickly

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and thus maintain a more stable bakingenvironment.

PICK A BAKING STONE that is thick (asthick as you can get) and has good heatretaining properties.

In many specialty stores, you will findstones designed for home oven use,sometimes labeled pizza stones. Althoughthis is a little simplified, a good rule ofthumb is to get a thick stone as it can thenstore more heat than a thin one.

You can also do what I did recently andbuy some fire bricks from a hardwarestore. The bricks don't cost as much as abranded baking stone, yet give you verygood results.

The only downside in this approach isthat thick bricks take longer to heat than athinner baking stone.

AFTER THIS FIRST STEP in emulating abrick oven, the next one could be addinganother stone on top of the bread todistribute the heat from the oven moreevenly also from the top.

And if your oven still has space left,why not be efficient and use the upperbaking stone to bake a second batch ofbread and double your oven’sproductivity.

You can think of this as your first steptowards having your own bakery!

Create steamPROBABLY THE BIGGEST problem whenbaking bread in a home oven is that thebread's top dries too fast and starts toform a crust before the bread has had thetime to rise to full oven spring.

This leads to uncontrolled ripping butalso to loaves that are not as big as theycould be.

THE MOST COMMON way to get pastthis limitation is injecting steam into theoven.

Commercial bakeries use special ovensthat can push a mighty burst of steam intothe oven after the oven door has beenclosed. A feature that most home bakerscan only dream of.

THE EASIEST way to create a some steamin the oven is to take a regular sprayingbottle, fill it with water and spray water onthe oven walls right after you have put thebread in.

Unfortunately, when using this method,a big portion of the steam escapes fromthe oven before you manage to close thedoor. So, when you try to create steam in

Bread December 2012 45

this way, make sure to close the door asquickly as you can.

IN HIS BOOK, "Baking Artisan Bread",Ciril Hitz proposes heating an old bakingtin full of metal screws at the back orbottom of the oven as the oven is heatingand then placing a handful of ice cubes orcold water on top of them to createsteam.

Others suggest using a metal tray orcast iron pan in the same way, with orwithout the pieces of metal.

I HAVE NOT TRIED using the pieces ofmetal suggested by Hitz, but do havesome experience with the cast iron pan.

My method is to boil the water in a teakettle before pouring it on a heated castiron pan. This creates lots of steam, butjust like with spraying, a lot of it exitsimmediately through the oven door.

This way to generate steam is a lotmore complicated than just spraying waterinto the oven, and it comes with the risk ofbreaking your oven's window (cover it witha kitchen towel while putting the water into keep it safe) but many people are usingthe method successfully and with goodresults.

Bread December 2012

"My method is toboil the water in atea kettle beforepouring it on aheated cast ironpan. This createslots of steam, butjust like withspraying, a lot of itexits immediatelythrough the ovendoor."

AT ABOUT half-way into baking yourbread, if there still is water left in the pan,take it out from the oven so that the crustcan form and dry to its perfect, crisp,state.

When steaming with a spray bottle, youwon't be able to create too much steam,so you can just leave the bread to bake allthe way at once.

Use the moisture from thebreadSTEAMING THE OVEN is often frustratingand can be hard to master. In fact, somebakers, like Andrew Whitley don't see anypoint in it.

In Bread Matters, he writes: "The keyrequirement in this process is to keep theoven tightly closed and full of steam for 10minutes–something that is impossible indomestic ovens. So most of the suggestedmethods are doomed to failure."

And after learning to use the bread’sown moisture, I must agree. The resultsare very different from anything I havebeen able to get through any of mysteaming efforts.

Here's how it works, again in somevariations.

THE SIMPLEST EXAMPLE, and how I gotstarted with this method, is to bake yourloaf on a baking stone, covered by a claybowl for the first 20 to 25 minutes.

There is a lot of water in the bread thatbecomes water vapor as it heats to boilingpoint, so as your bowl keeps it fromescaping the oven, the bread’s ownmoisture keeps the bread from drying outand leads to a perfect oven spring.

A SLIGHTLY MORE refined way to do thisis to use a cast iron combo cooker assuggested by Chad Robertson in TartineBread.

The combo cooker is a combination ofa cast iron frying pan and a matching castiron pot.

The bread goes into the baking pan(you should be able to slide it in with thehelp of a bread peel) and when the pot isplaced on top of the pan, it creates theperfect sealed environment.

SIMILARILY, you could place the bread ina cast iron pot covered with a lid.

Done this way, the risk of burningyourself is just a bit higher, unless youdon't preheat the pot (which apparently isa perfectly good way of making bread aswell).

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"There is a lot ofwater in the breadthat becomes watervapor as it heats toboiling point, so asyour bowl keeps itfrom escaping theoven, the bread’sown moisture keepsthe bread fromdrying out and leadsto a perfect ovenspring."

MY CURRENT FAVORITE approach tobaking bread, as I haven't been able tofind a complete combo cooker anywherein Finland, is to use the same clay pot Ifirst used on top of my baking stone butnow placing it on top of a cast iron pan.

It works really well and consistentlygives me good results. One round loaf atthe time.

TRY THIS METHOD with different dishesyou have at hand or find at drift stores.

People have successfully baked breadusing all kinds of cast iron and clay potssuch as the tahini or a Römertopf cookingpots. Let your imagination loose, and seewhat works for yourself.

Build a strong doughFINALLY, it's not all about the oven.

If your dough is not strong enough tokeep its shape, these oven tweaks willhelp but will not fix the actual problem.

So, when you make bread, make sureyou knead long enough and give thedough a good sequence of stretches andfolds during the rest period.

This way, when you place a loaf ofbread in your tweaked oven, you can besure that it's going to become a great loafof fresh, baked bread.

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I FIRST FOUND Tom Baker through "TheStarter", a short film in which he talksabout bread, sourdough, and his business.At the time, he was running his business inhis home, teaching cookery courses andbaking bread in a cob oven he had builton his back yard.

There was something profound aboutthe way he talked about bread making,and I was curious to learn more.

TOM BAKER runs Loaf Social Enterprise(Loaf for short), a UK business based inBirmingham devoted to "promoting realfood and healthy living, and buildingcommunity through food," as Bakerexplains on the business’s web site.

For Loaf, this means baking and sellingbread as well as teaching cooking andbread making courses. The business,which was started in Baker's home in 2009

moved to a space of its own in September2012 when it opened on Stirchley HighStreet.

The street used to be a thriving placeto shop, work, and live but has beenignored and declining for the past thirtyyears, which is exactly why Loaf wanted tobe there. As a social enterprise, thebusiness aims to build the community andimprove the quality of life of its customersthrough business instead of focusing onjust making more money.

I ASKED Tom Baker a few questions abouthis business and his ideas on bread andsocial responsibility.

—

Jarkko: You describe Loaf as a socialenterprise that ”aims to generate profit

BAKER ON A MISSION

Bread December 2012 50

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through providing various services, inorder to further its social objectivesthrough campaigns and food projects."You also describe it as a "communitybakery." Can you tell a bit more about thephilosophy behind Loaf? Why did youstart Loaf as a social enterprise instead ofjust a regular business, and how do youadvance your social goal through thebusiness?

Tom: BEFORE LAUNCHING Loaf, Iworked for 5 years as a nutritionist in theNational Health Service.

I used to travel around Birmingham,one of the UK's most culturally diversecities, and work with communities acrossthe city, both rich and poor. This exposedme to the huge inequalities that exist inthe UK, so when I launched Loaf I knew Ididn't want to ignore this, but for Loaf tobe a food business that attempted toreach all sectors of society.

So I set Loaf up as a social enterprisebusiness, which meant that the companywould have a double bottom line—on theone hand to become financiallysustainable and profitable, but on theother to use its resources and its profit tofurther a social objective: "To promotegood food and healthy living in

"I got greatsatisfaction fromhanding them awarm loaf of breadand knowing themby first name—notonly them but oftentheir kids and theirpets too!"

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communities, and build communitythrough food."

THE COMMUNITY BAKERY was really anatural progression of this: to buildcommunity through food.

I asked people to "subscribe" to abread club for a minimum of 4 weeks (later12 weeks), and so every week the samepeople would come to my house on aFriday afternoon and buy bread. Wequickly became a kind of community and Igot great satisfaction from handing thema warm loaf of bread and knowing themby first name—not only them but oftentheir kids and their pets too!

Jarkko: Do you think the decision to makeLoaf a social business has affected theday-to-day operations in your business,compared to how it would have been torun it as a "normal" business?

Tom: NO. Many Social Enterprises in theUK focus a huge amount on the "social"and not enough on the "enterprise", andend up being dependent on grants togrow and develop and fulfill theirobjectives.

I had come out of a culture of grant-dependency in the NHS and I was

determined to raise capital another way sothat we could fulfill our objectives our ownway and not on anyone else's terms. Thismeant for me the "enterprise" comingfirst, though not being pure enterprise buttrying also to fulfill social aims too.

If the "enterprise" could be madesuccessful then the social objectives couldbe self-funded and fulfilled.

Therefore, right from the beginning,Loaf has operated just like a normalbusiness and tried to become sustainablefirst and turn a profit.

Jarkko: You started Loaf in your home,with a wood fired oven in your backyardand a starter in your fridge. Can you tell abit about how you got started with yourbusiness and how it functioned at thattime?

Tom: I WAS FORTUNATE in that my bossat the NHS allowed me to reduce myhours to 4 days a week so that I couldwork on Loaf part-time.

In November 2009, I started teachingpeople how to make bread and pastafrom my home kitchen on the weekends,and it proved popular taking a surprisingnumber of bookings through our website.

That same month I went to a bread

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SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

Bread December 2012

SOCIAL ENTERPRISE—or social business,as Nobel Peace Prize LaureateMuhammad Yunus calls the idea in hiswork—is a model for businesses built forsocial objectives.

Social enterprises differ from traditionalbusinesses in an important way: Eventhough traditional business might havesocial objectives, the social objectivescome second, only after maximizingshareholder value. A social enterprisedoesn't aim for profit but the profits areput back to improving the business andadvancing its social objectives.

SOCIAL ENTERPRISE also differs fromnon-profits and government organizationsin an important way: A social enterprisedoes business to support its socialobjectives, selling goods and services tocustomers and competing in the samemarkets with traditional businesses.

This way, a social enterprise canfunction without outside funding whilestaying true to its social goals.

conference in Oxford and had the fortuneto sit between Tom Herbert of HobbsHouse Bakery (and ”The Fabulous BakerBrothers” TV series), and Dan andJohanna McTiernan of the HandmadeBakery in Yorkshire, the UK’s firstCommunity Supported Bakery.

After some inspiring talks during theconference and a few beers in the barafterwards with Dan and Johanna, I wasconvinced that I needed to start a bakeryfrom home also. On the train home thatnight, I plotted my exit from the NHSaltogether and a week later had handed inmy notice.

I STARTED A WEEKLY RITUAL of makingheaps of sourdough dough late on aThursday night and lighting up my woodfired earth oven just outside the back doorearly on a Friday morning to bake for thenewly formed bread club.

Alongside this I expanded the coursesto sourdough baking, foraging, butchery,and preserving—all taught from mykitchen to six people at time, in my smalltwo bedroom terraced house in SouthBirmingham.

Jarkko: And on September 8, 2012, youopened a ”real” shop. How did that

happen and what was involved in gettingthe bakery up and running? I imagine itwas a lot of work…

Tom: LOAF WAS FAIRLY SUCCESSFULright from the start so it became apparentearly on that we would eventually need tomove to bigger premises.

In early 2011, we started looking at ourlocal neighborhood for potential places tohave our own shop—a high street cookeryschool and bakery. We opted for my mostlocal high street in Stirchley because I hadbecome involved in some local projectsthere (such as launching a monthlycommunity market), and it was a highstreet in desperate need of regenerationwith the highest shop vacancy rate inBirmingham.

We believed that we could be part ofthe regeneration of the area by puttingour business on the high street.

AFTER LOOKING for a suitable premisesfor a few months but not coming up withanything in budget on the right scale, Iwas approached by the MD of a largeregional brewery called Everards, who hadheard about me through Chris Young atthe Real Bread Campaign.

He explained that although they were

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still a beer brewery, they were also aproperty company and owned many pubsand retail premises across the region. Heexplained that they were starting a newproject called Project Artisan which wouldbe a property investment scheme thatwould seek to find artisan food producersthat were in need of premises to expandinto. They would then refurbish a suitableproperty for them and take on the”artisan” as a tenant.

I showed them round a property thatwe had previously rejected as tooexpensive and after a few weeks ofdiscussions decided that they would buythe property, which went through in late2011. In May 2012 the refurbishmentbegan, and was completed in earlySeptember 2012.

THE REMAINING ISSUE for us was raisingthe capital for buying equipment for ourbakery and cookery school.

For this we borrowed another ideafrom The Handmade Bakery and issued”Bread Bonds” to the local community. 25people agreed to lend us £1000 for 3years, in return for an interest rate that wepay to them in bread rather than in cash.This enabled us to buy all the equipmentwe needed.

Jarkko: You run the new bakery in a spaceyou share with Stirchley Stores—whichisn’t your regular grocery store either.How did you come in contact with themand what is the role of this cooperation inyour business? Do you see communitybakeries and stores (working together) assomething that will become more popularin the future?

Tom: STIRCHLEY STORES is a local foodcooperative that I am a member of.

They were running out of a house alsoand operated as a monthly buying groupto obtain affordable ethical food from awholesaler for its members. They werealso outgrowing the house they werebased in, so Loaf offered them theopportunity to run the retail space of thenew HQ. We ”rent” the space to StirchleyStores for no money, in return for sellingon our bread at no markup. Therefore wedon’t have to employ extra staff to run ashop to sell the bread, and they get aplace to sell their food direct to the publictoo.

I had seen a similar thing at theHandmade Bakery, where they sharedsome space with a community groceryshop, and I don’t see why it can't workelsewhere too.

COMMUNITYSUPPORTED BAKING

Bread December 2012 54

COMMUNITY SUPPORTED BAKING is aReal Bread Campaign initiative aiming todivide the risks and rewards of starting abakery between the baker and hiscommunity.

This could mean selling breadsubscriptions and issuing bread bonds asTom Baker did when starting Loaf, butthere are other ways to collect funds andhelp from the community as well.

Some other ideas implemented bycommunity supported bakeries so far havebeen apprenticeship and volunteering,and other kinds of trading schemes.

THE IDEA TO start a community bakerycan also come from the potentialcustomers: people looking for real breadcan start a cooperative and hire a baker tobake them the bread they need.

But whatever the implementation, thegoal is the same: to produce bread in away that benefits everyone involved: thebaker, his suppliers, and the community.

Jarkko: As this issue of Bread is aboutovens and heat, I want to ask a fewquestions about that topic too… In yournew bakery, do you have a wood firedoven as well as before, or did you go witha more "standard" bakery oven this time?

Tom: UNFORTUNATELY, we don’t haveany outside space at the new premises soI couldn’t rebuild an earth oven on site.

Commercial wood fired ovens are wayout of our price range so we opted for anold refurbished Tom Chandley deck oven,for now...

Jarkko: What difference do you think theoven makes in the bread making process?Is there a real difference if you compare awood-fired oven and other types ofovens?

Tom: I HAVEN'T BAKED in any wood-firedovens except for my small earth oven athome.

The bread can be incredible out ofthat, but it it is highly unpredictable andinconsistent, so it takes a huge amount ofskill to judge the temperature andconditions correctly and to time theproving of the bread exactly to get theperfect loaf from an earth oven. I probably

Bread December 2012 55

had some of the best bread I've eaten outof the earth oven, but I couldn’treproduce it every week.

I think ovens make a huge difference tothe finished loaf.

I chose a low-crown deck ovendeliberately to improve the crust of ourbreads and we crank it up nice and hot forexactly the same reason.

Jarkko: Teaching people bread makinghas been a big part of what you do sincethe beginning. Why did you decide toinclude it in your business instead of justselling bread?

Tom: I DID SOME SUMS on that train onthe way back from Oxford after the breadconference, and baking from home,there’s no way I could ever have affordedto leave my job if it had just been sellingbread, there’s just no profit to made frombread at that scale.

Plus I really enjoyed teaching. It’s whatI did for the NHS, and what I had set upLoaf to do. The Cookery School came first,the bakery was a drunken after-thought

Now that we're in the shop, the bakeryand the cookery school are on a muchmore even-footing financially as ourbread-baking capacity has increased at

least ten-fold compared to baking athome.

Both are important to me—I love timealone in the bakery, striving to get greatcrust and crumb from simple ingredientsand techniques, but I also love seeing thetransformation in people who come onour courses, and sending them away witha new skill and an armful of warm bread!

Jarkko: What do you see in the future forLoaf?

Tom: I WANT LOAF TO continue tocontribute to the regeneration of Stirchleyby doing what it has set out to do in thenew premises: make good bread (andfood generally) more accessible to thelocal community, and teach forgottenfood skills.

In the long term I would love Loaf toperhaps take on some land on the edgeof Birmingham, so we can help to connectcity and country by getting city-dwellersout there growing vegetables, rearinganimals, and learning rural skills.

I think our high streets are in desperateneed of regeneration and real breadbakeries are starting to prove that theycan be a big part of this all across the UK.

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"I love time alone inthe bakery, striving toget great crust andcrumb from simpleingredients andtechniques, but I alsolove seeing thetransformation inpeople who comeon our courses, andsending them awaywith a new skill andan armful of warmbread!"

100! wheatflour

(bread/ all-p

urpose)

THE RECIPE

70! water

2! salt

2! FRESHyeasT

Bread December 2012 58

BREAD FOR CHRISTMASTHE TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS bread inFinland is a sweet loaf made with breadflour, syrup, fennel, aniseeds, maybe acouple of other spices, and powderedmalted rye.

The bread is very soft and hardly has acrust. In fact, it is often glazed with syrupand butter at the end of baking to give ashiny finish.

It's a tradition, but that kind of breadhas never been one of my favorites.

THIS IS WHY THIS YEAR, as Christmas wasdrawing closer, I started experimentingwith a version of my own. It would have allthe characteristics that would allow me tocall it a Christmas loaf but in a lighter, lesssweet form.

Put it this way, I wanted my version totaste more like bread.

I had some powdered malted rye in mySHARE ···>

Bread December 2012 59

flour closet, so I decided to give it a shotand made a standard bread dough withsome of the flour replaced with malt. Withjust this small change, the bread started tohave the right Christmas feel.

TO SUPPORT the flavor a bit more, Idecided to go with a poolish starter madeusing a very dark ale. This bread needs tobe soft and quite fluffy, so I didn't use asourdough starter this time.

Finally, the spices, and some fruit. Forfruit, I picked currants (any raisins shouldbe fine) which I soaked in some good rumfor a few hours before using them. As oneof my friends suggested after tasting thebread, dried cranberries would be a verygood fit as well.

An overnight retardation of the finished

loaf gives the flavors time to build up andresults in a flavorful and rustic loaf forChristmas. Sweet, but only slightly. Earthyand still very much a bread.

IF YOU ARE LOOKING for something tobake this Christmas, this is a rather quickrecipe to try.

And if you are reading this only afterChristmas, this loaf tastes good on a coldwinter night even after the festivities areover.

The Recipe3 TO 5 HOURS before making the dough,mix the poolish and put the raisins to soakin rum.

You can also do this the night before, ifyou let your poolish develop in the

refrigerator or in a cool room instead ofthe kitchen counter.

FOR THE POOLISH, mix:125 g dark ale125 g strong white flour5 g fresh yeast

IN ANOTHER BOWL, mix 50 grams ofraisins (I used currants) and 2 tablespoonsof good dark rum.

At this point, you can also mix the flour,water and spices from the final dough in aseparate bowl and let the mixture sit atroom temperature, well covered, inautolyse for the 3 to 5 hours your poolishtakes to become all bubbly and wellfermented.

This will make the gluten in the flour

better prepared for your kneading, but isa completely optional step when makingbread with this recipe (I tried with andwithout the autolyse and got good resultsboth ways).

FOR THE FINAL DOUGH, mix:All of the poolish150 g powdered malted rye650 g strong white flour5 g aniseed, ground (~ 2 teaspoons)4 g fennel seeds, ground (~ 2 teaspoons)3 teaspoons bitter orange peel, ground500 g water15 g salt5 g fresh yeast100 g syrupAll of the raisins and rum

MIX EVERYTHING except salt and raisinsin a bowl and stir until there are no drylumps of flour left. Then work the dough (Iprefer to do this on the table rather thanin the bowl) until it is smooth and elastic—about 10 minutes.

When the dough starts to feel ready,work in the salt and keep working thedough for a while. Finally, when the doughis ready, fold in the soaked raisins andform the dough into a ball.

Place the dough in a lightly floured

bowl for bulk fermentation.After about half an hour, take the

dough out of the bowl for a simple stretchand fold sequence. In its easiest form, allyou need to do is to form the dough intoa tight ball again, by stretching one cornerof the dough at a time and tightly placingit in the center of the dough ball.

When the ball is ready, place it back inthe bowl for another half an hour. Repeatthe stretch and fold and rest the doughfor an additional 30-40 minutes, or untilthe dough is ready.

DIVIDE THE DOUGH in two pieces ofequal size and shape both pieces intobreads of your liking. I decided to go withboules myself, but there are no rulesagainst different shapes either.

Leave the shaped loaves for a final resteither in room temperature or overnight inthe refrigerator and bake in a hot oven(230°C or 450°F) on a baking stone or in acombo cooker or dutch oven for about 35minutes.

Let the bread cool, and enjoy withbutter and ham, or as a part of atraditional Finnish Christmas dinner.

Bread December 2012 60

INSANELY INTERESTED IS APUBLISHER OF MICROMAGAZINES FOR THE CURIOUS.

MICRO MAGAZINES ARE magazines thatfocus on a very specific topic, publishedonline by a very small team—in the caseof Insanely Interested, just one man: me.

I am Jarkko Laine, a stay-at-home dad,online writer and publisher, beginnercigar box guitar player, and an all-roundcreative guy from Finland.

I believe that as humans, we are borncurious and need to keep learning aboutmany different things to enjoy our lives tothe fullest and to give our minds the foodthey need. Insanely Interested is here todeliver a part of that healthy diet for acurious brain.

MY LOVE FOR A DARK CURST ON A softwhite crumb combined with a need to findout how things are made lead me to

create the magazine you are now reading.

IN ADDITION TO BREAD, InsanelyInterested publishes an email newsletterfor those of us hoping to turn their mindsinsanely interested in everything into ameaningful change in the world—bycreating important work and sharing itwith the world.

The newsletter is calledCurious&Creative and you can subscribeto it for free at the Insanely Interested website.

SLOWLY, AS I KEEP LEARNING moreabout the way online publishing works, Iam building Insanely Interested into asustainable, long-lasting business thatcan serve the world by presenting newideas and stories from people doingthings they believe in.

Having you with me on this journeymakes me happy.

THE NOPLAN OVEN

SHARE ···>

Bread December 2012 64

BEAUTIFUL THINGS SOMETIMES getbuilt out of ignorance.

In the summer of 2012, my threebrothers and I gathered for our yearlybrother bonding weekend at our parents'tiny summer cottage in the Finnishcountryside—with a vague idea that wewould probably make something.

Because that's what we do when weget together with no distraction.

We debate big ideas (ranging fromworld economics to whether telepathycould be possible or not—I'm usually theskeptic), we eat well, and we make things.

EARLIER IN THE YEAR, I had been leafingthrough my copy of The Bread Builders,but had never got into any level of detailin studying how wood fired brick ovensactually work. All I knew was that wecouldn't build one in the mere two dayswe had at our disposal, and that the ovenworks by storing a lot of heat into itsmasonry and then releases it slowly so thatit can be used for baking the bread.

Definitely not enough for building areal oven. But enough to get started atbuilding something.

THERE IS A FOOD here in Finland that wecall rosvopaisti (literally, robber's roast),

Bread December 2012 65

apparently of Mongolian origins. The foodis made by cooking meat in a pit coveredwith coals, soil and heated stones.

I have never eaten or made rosvopaisti,but in my mind, I combined this idea withthat of the masonry ovens and thoughtthat baking bread in a hole in the groundwould be an interesting idea to try.

When I explained this idea to the boys,they didn't resist. In fact, they were mostlyexcited. Jetro suggested that we shouldmake a movie out of the experiment—andso we did.

WITH NOTHING but this overall idea inmind, we got to work. Who needs plans,after all?

We picked a spot near the lake so thatwe would have access to water ifsomething went wrong—it was a placewere we had been keeping a fire before—and started digging.

Unfortunately, what we didn't considerwas that being right next to the lakemeant that after not much digging, wereached the water level. There was nopoint in digging deeper so it was time forour first quick change of mind.

Instead of digging any deeper, westarted collecting rocks for the hearth andwalls of the oven. We covered the bottom

of the hole, its walls, and then started tobuild a dome around the so called oven.

Which is when one of us—I can't recallwhose idea it was—got the idea: "let’slight the fire."

THE NEXT THING we realize is that we arebuilding an oven with the fire alreadyburning!

Things like this happen when you haveno plan.

That's the beauty of it. If you ask me.

WHILE WE STRUGGLED to finish buildingthe oven, my two loaves were resting intheir proving baskets, waiting to be bakedas soon as everything was ready.

And—surprisingly enough—wemanaged to build a simple dome byplacing a big rock on top of the hole, andkept heating the oven for a couple ofhours.

As the fire turned into embers, weshoveled the coals out and put the firstloaf in. Smelling the dough as it startedbaking on the hot hearth was one of themost rewarding moments of this entireyear!

We didn't have a door for the oven sowe took an old wheelbarrow that was lyingnearby and placed it on top of the oven.

Again, not the best choice, and thenext weekend, with all of our families withus, we improved on the oven by addingmore rocks and fitting a big stone as theoven door.

But for the first firing, all we had wasthe slowly rusting wheelbarrow.

It did the job.

45 MINUTES LATER, when we opened thedoor, we found a well-baked loaf of bread.It wasn't one of my best loaves, but itclearly was a real loaf of sourdough bread.That was all we had hoped. Maybe morethan we had hoped, even.

And the loaves we baked on the next

weekend after the improvements were justas good as anything I have baked in myhome oven.

IF THERE IS ANY moral to this little story,it's in the joy of building simple things.

Breaking bread baked in an oven wehad spent all day building brought uscloser together, giving us memories thatwe can look back to still years from now.

And it made me remember thatmaking bread really is not quite ascomplicated as we sometimes make itseem.

That said, however, next time we willstart with proper research...

Bread December 2012 66

"Breaking breadbaked in an oven wehad spent all daybuilding brought uscloser together,giving us memoriesthat we can look backto still years fromnow."

YEAR TWOBREAD TURNS ONE in a matter of days!

What started as an experiment inpublishing has turned into something bigger,and I'm glad to tell you that there will be asecond year.

IN 2013, starting from February 20th, I amgoing to publish 6 issues of Bread, eachpacked with inspiring interviews, new ideas,and thorough articles on bread making. Likethis year—just a little bit better.

The goal of helping and inspiring you asyou practice the craft of bread making willalso still be at the core of the magazine just asprofoundly as it has been this year.

In other words: 2012 was exciting but 2013will be even more exciting. And I can't wait toget is started.

MOVING TO YEAR TWO also brings a bigchange. A change I wrestled with for a longtime before finally deciding to take the jumpand just do it.

Bread December 2012

Insanely Interested is my business, andBread is my most important work.

And to get it to the next level which Ibelieve it deserves, it needs money. That'swhy, after a lot of thinking, I have decidedthat as much as I have enjoyed sharing themagazine for free, it's time to bring the era ofcomplete free issues of Bread to an end.

I HOPE you understand the decision andmaybe even consider subscribing for asecond year of Bread (more about this on thenext page). But I also understand if you arenot ready to spend money on the magazine—not everyone is.

And that's fine: I love free content just asmuch as the next guy, and will keep trying tobring free content of the highest qualitycontent to you next year as well, throughother outlets such as Facebook or themagazine's web site.

NO MATTER what you choose to do, you area hero: your devotion to bread and bakingwill make a difference for you and the peoplearound you. That I am sure of.

I want to say a huge thank you for 2012.It has been a pleasure baking with you!

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In 2013, I am goingto publish 6 issues ofBread, packed withinspiring interviews,new ideas, andthorough articles onbread making. Likethis year—just a littlebit better.

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONSIF YOU WANT TO keep enjoying BREADin 2013, you have a number of goodoptions to choose from:

1. Subscribe today.This is your cheapest option if youdecided to subscribe for 2013:

Subcribe before January 20 and takeadvantage of a 15% discount on the yearlysubscription. This is my way to say thankyou for your support—it really means theworld to me.

Click here to read more.

2. Don't do anything yet.If you are not sure about whether youwant to subscribe or not yet, no worries.

Keep your free subscription and I willlet you know when the next issue of Bread

comes out in February.Bread will not be sold as individual

issues, but if you come on board later, youwill get all the previous issues from 2013as an instant download the moment yousubscribe.

3. Follow Bread on the web.Even if I am no longer able to keep themagazine free, I still really like freecontent. This means that it is a good ideato keep an eye on Bread on the web andon Facebook so you won't miss any freecontent I might put out on 2013.

I have some ideas that I would love toshare with you...

ANY OPTION is fine. So, feel free to pickthe one that suits you best. See you in2013!

Bread December 2012 69

ISSUE 5THE NEXT ISSUE of Bread comes out onFebruary 20th.

It will have a focus on the bakery,featuring bakers such as Jeremy Shapirowho in his spare time runs a tiny bakery inhis home in New York and Jason Raduchawho opened a micro bakery with the helpof a successful Kickstarter campaign.

TO MAKE SURE you get your copy whenit's published, visit our web site and checkthe subscription options.

Bread December 2012 70

IF YOU ENJOYED THE MAGAZINE,SHARE IT WITH PEOPLE YOU LIKE!

PHOTO CREDITSCover: mujerboricua (CC BY-ND 2.0)page 3: mujerboricua (CC BY-ND 2.0)Page 6: Roberto Zingales (CC BY-ND 2.0)Page 7: Varda Haimo (used with permission)Page 8: Philippa Winstanley (used with permission)Page 9: Melanie Christopherson (used with permission)Page 10: Jarkko LainePages 11-16: Katharina Moebus (used with permission)Pages 18, 20: Andrew Jacot www.andrewjacot.com (used with permission)Pages 22-25: Park Avenue Community Oven (used with permission)Page 26: Katharina Moebus (used with permission)Page 27: Pete Jelliffe (CC BY-ND 2.0)Page 29: Rebecca Siegel (CC BY 2.0)Page 31: Horia Varlan (CC BY 2.0)Page 33: Pauline Mak (CC BY 2.0)Pages 35-38: Donostia-San Sebastian 2016 (CC BY 2.0)Page 40: Jesús Gorriti (CC BY-SA 2.0)Page 41: Ibán Yarza (used with permission)Page 42: Pauline Mak (CC BY 2.0)Page 43: Rebecca Siegel (CC BY 2.0)Page 44: Jarkko LainePage 45: Ben Salter (CC BY 2.0)Page 46: Pauline Mak (CC BY 2.0)Page 48: VH Hammer (CC BY 2.0)Pages 49, 50, 53: Fiona Cullinan (used with permission)Page 51, 55: Tom Baker (used with permission)Page 57 (background): redspotted (CC BY 2.0)

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