This month we will be making all 12 Star Point blocks. These blocks are each foundation paper pieced using the leave-in stabilizer templates for Block #2: Star Points.

If you’re new to foundation paper piecing it may take a few blocks for the technique to click, but after you complete all twelve, I think you will feel pretty comfortable foundation paper piecing other projects in the future with confidence.

Be sure to read through the instructions and watch the included video tutorial before beginning piecing and quilting your blocks.

Foundation paper piecing is a broad term for sewing patches directly to a piece of foundation (like paper) that has an outline of the block design printed on it. I like to think of foundation paper piecing as sewing by number. Foundation paper piecing is not to be confused with English Paper Piecing, which we will be doing later on in the year.

One of the major benefits of foundation paper piecing is you can achieve great precision and align points almost perfectly. This technique is really great for pointy stars or complex designs.

There are many different ways to foundation paper piece a block. Overtime, I have found a system that works best for me and that is what I will be using in this lesson. However, don’t feel

Block #2: Star Points

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INTRODUCTION TO FOUNDATION PAPER PIECING

obligated to piece in the same manner I do. I encourage you to find what works best for you. Here are some things you may notice that vary from pattern to pattern or quilter to quilter:1. Some patterns do not include the quarter inch seam allowance and it must be added. The templates for the Technicolor Galaxy quilt include all of the seam allowances.2. The type of foundation used can vary. Some quilters use classic printer paper, muslin, stabilizer, or vellum for their templates. I prefer to use the leave-in wash-away stabilizer.3. When you’re piecing with a tear away foundation, it helps to perforate the lines on the template so it’s easier to tear the paper away. Some quilters will sew directly on the lines of the templates with an un-threaded needle to perforate the lines. Some will just use a very short (1.0) stitch length so the paper is sort of perforated as you sew. When you are using the wash-away stabilizer, there is no need to perforate your templates. You can use a regular piecing stitch length.4. While piecing, some quilters won’t trim their seam allowance until after they have sewn a piece on. I like to trim up the seam allowance first, making it easier to line up the next piece. This will make more sense when you begin piecing.5. Some quilters will use a basic clear quilting ruler to trim their seam allowances. Some even might be able to eyeball the trimming. I really love how easy it is to use an Add-A-Quarter ruler to get perfect quarter inch seams.

6. Some quilters use pins to keep pieces from moving while they sew. As you already know, I prefer to glue baste my pieces together. When foundation paper piecing, this can really help because it allows you to do a quick flip check to be sure the piece of fabric you’re adding will cover the section all the way. If it doesn’t cover, you can easily peel the piece off and re-glue it; no seam ripping!

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED

F 12 - Block #2: Star Points Piecing Templates,

Segments A, B, C (on stabilizer)

F Add-A-Quarter Ruler

F Postcard, Card stock, or Bookmark

F Cutting Mat + Rotary

F Iron + Pressing Board

F Elmer’s Glue Stick

F Elmer’s Washable Glue Bottle w/Fine Tip

F 12 - 4” x 6.5” - Piece A1 (use solids)

F 12 - 1.75” x 8” - Piece A2 (use solids)

F 12 - 1.75” x 10” - Piece A3 (use solids)

F 12 - 3” x 8” - Piece B6 (use prints)

F 12 - 3” x 8” - Piece C6 (use prints)

F 12 - 1.75” strips - Pieces B1-B5 and C1-C5

(just cut long strips for now)

F 12 - 11” x 10” - Batting

F 12 - 11” x 10” - Backing (use solids see Page 3

for backing details)

FABRIC YOU WILL NEED

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CHOOSING FABRIC FOR THE FRONT OF THE BLOCKS

Using FIG. A & B as a general guide, finalize your fabric selections for all 12 Star Point Blocks.

I chose to use solid fabric for pieces A1, A2, A3, then used printed fabric for pieces B1-B6 and C1-C6. Cut out each piece according to the “Fabric You Will Need” section on Page 1. For the low volume strips (B1-B5 and C1-C5), you can just cut long strips of fabric and trim them to size as you sew. Keep the fabrics for each block separated by the block number (1,2,3,4, etc.). Label each piece of fabric with the proper block piece number (A1, A2, A3, etc.). I suggest paper clipping a set of piecing templates to each block set of fabrics to keep organized.

Once you have your fabric chosen for the front of the blocks, you will need to choose fabric for the backing of the blocks. I used (and the kits include) the following Kona® Cotton Solids: #1 - Rich Red, #2 - Tomato, #3 - School Bus, #4 - Curry, #5 - Banana, #6 - Wasabi, #7 - Chartreuse, #8 - Ice Frappe, #9 - Azure, #10 - Candy Blue, #11 - Lilac, #12 - Cerise.

Note: Keep in mind that the backing of the quilt is a reflected version of the front. Looking at FIG. C you will see the yellow and oranges are now on the right when on the front of the quilt in FIG. B they’re on the left.

FIG. A

#5

#7 #8

#1#2

#3

#4

#6 #9

#10

#11

#12

FIG. B

This center circle is the back of Block #1.

FIG. C

#1A

#2A

#3A

#4A

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STEP #1AGet out one Segment A template and fabric piece A1. Put a dab of Elmer’s Glue Stick within the A1 section on the blank side of your template. Stick the template blank side to wrong side of your fabric. Make sure the fabric generously covers the A1 section on the template.

Tip: Sometimes it helps to hold the piece up to the light to make sure your fabric is covering completely.

STEP #2AUse a piece of card stock or a thick bookmark (represented as the tan rectangle in the diagrams) as a straight edge. Line the straight edge up with the line between piece A1 and A2 so the straight edge is covering piece A1.

STEP #3AGently fold the template back along the straight edge.

STEP #4AUsing an Add-A-Quarter ruler, snap the ruler into place against the edge of the template. Using a rotary cutter, cut along the edge of the Add-A-Quarter ruler. You should now have a perfect quarter inch seam allowance.

PIECING SEGMENT A

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#5A

#6A

#7A

#8A

STEP #5AFlip the template over. Line fabric piece A2 up with the edge you just cut of fabric piece A1. When you line up the fabric, you must do so in such a way that after piece A2 is sewn on and pressed back it, will cover section A2 on the template entirely. Place fabric A2 into position where you think it will cover properly. With a bottle of washable glue with a fine tip, place a thin line of glue along the edge, between both pieces, within the seam allowance and heat-set the glue with a hot, dry iron. Do a quick flip check by flipping piece A2 back to make sure it covers section A2 on the template entirely. If it does not cover the piece properly, you can easily peel piece A2 off and re-glue it.

STEP #6AOnce piece A2 is glued properly, flip your template back over and make sure the fabric is lying flat to the left. Starting at the top point of A1, sew directly on the line between piece A1 and A2 (backstitch at the start).

STEP #7AFlip the template over and set the seam by pressing along where you have just sewn. Now press piece A2 outward.

STEP #8ALine your straight edge up with the line between piece A1 and A3 so the straight edge is covering piece A1. Fold the template back against the straight edge and snap your Add-A-Quarter ruler against the edge of the template. Trim off the excess fabric from A1 and A2 leaving a quarter inch seam.

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#9A

#10A

#11A

#12A

STEP #9AFlip the template over. Line fabric piece A3 up with the edge you just cut of fabric piece A1/A2. When you line up the fabric, you must do so in such a way that after piece A3 is sewn on and pressed back, it will cover section A3 on the template entirely. Place fabric A3 into position where you think it will cover properly. With a bottle of washable glue with a fine tip, place a thin line of glue along the edge, between both pieces, within the seam allowance and heat- set the glue with a hot, dry iron. Do a quick flip check by flipping piece A3 back to make sure it covers section A3 on the template entirely.

STEP #10AOnce piece A3 is glued properly, flip your template back over and make sure the fabric is lying flat to the right. Sew directly on the line between piece A1 and A3 (start off the edge and end off the edge).

STEP #11AFlip the template over and set the seam by pressing along where you have just sewn. Now press piece A3 outward.

STEP #12AUsing a rotary cutter and quilting ruler, very carefully cut directly on the outermost black line of the template, cutting off any excess template and fabric.

Repeat steps 1A-12A to piece all twelve Segment A pieces.

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#1B

#2B

#3B

#4B

STEP #1BGet out one Segment B template and fabric piece B1. Put a dab of Elmer’s Glue Stick within the B1 section on the blank side of your template. Stick the template blank side to wrong side of your fabric. Make sure the fabric generously covers the B1 section on the template.Note: For pieces B1-B5 I had a huge handful of various 1.75” wide, long low volume strips. I randomly chose the strip to use and cut it to size with a pair of scissors as I worked.

STEP #2BLine your straight edge up with the line between piece B1 and B2 so that the straight edge is covering piece B1. Fold the template back against the straight edge and snap your Add-A-Quarter ruler against the edge of the template. Trim off the excess fabric from B1 leaving a quarter inch seam.

STEP #3BFlip the template over. Line fabric piece B2 up with the edge you just cut of fabric piece B1. Position fabric piece B2 so that it will cover section B2 on the template entirely. Glue baste the seam.

STEP #4BFlip your template back over and make sure the fabric is lying flat to the left. Sew directly on the line between piece B1 and B2 (start off the edge and end of the edge).

PIECING SEGMENTS B & C

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#5B

#6B

#7B

#8B

STEP #5BFlip the template over and set the seam by pressing along where you have just sewn. Now press piece B2 open.

STEP #6BLine your straight edge up with the line between piece B2 and B3 so the straight edge is covering piece B1/B2. Fold the template back against the straight edge and snap your Add-A-Quarter ruler against the edge of the template. Trim off the excess fabric from B2 leaving a quarter inch seam.

STEP #7BLine fabric piece B3 up with the edge you just cut of fabric piece B2. Position fabric piece B3 so that it will cover section B3 on the template entirely. Glue baste the seam.

Flip your template back over and make sure the fabric is lying flat to the left. Sew directly on the line between piece B2 and B3 (start off the edge and end off the edge).

STEP #8BFlip the template over and set the seam by pressing along where you have just sewn. Now press piece B3 open.

Continue piecing in the same way sewing on pieces B4 and B5.

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#9B

#10B

#11B

#12B

STEP #9BLine your straight edge up with the line between piece B5 and B6 so the straight edge is covering piece B5. Fold the template back against the straight edge and snap your Add-A-Quarter ruler against the edge of the template. Trim off the excess fabric from B5 leaving a quarter inch seam.

STEP #10BFlip the template over. Line fabric piece B6 up with the edge you just cut of fabric piece B5. Position fabric piece B6 so it will cover section B6 on the template entirely. Glue baste the seam.

STEP #11BFlip your template back over and make sure the fabric is lying flat to the left. Sew directly on the line between piece B5 and B6 (start off the edge and end off the edge).

STEP #12BFlip the template over and set the seam by pressing along where you have just sewn. Now press piece B6 open.

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#13B

#1C

STEP #13BUsing a rotary cutter and quilting ruler, very carefully cut directly on the outermost black line of the template, cutting off any excess template and fabric.

Repeat steps 1B-13B to piece all twelve Segment B and Segment C pieces.

STEP #1CPlace Segment A piece and Segment B piece right sides together. To line the pieces up properly, measure a quarter inch from the bottom left point of Segment A (see diagram) and that is where Segment B should begin. I like to stick a pin through the point on the quarter inch seam line, then flip the pieces over to see if the pin goes through the accurate point on the quarter inch seam line of the other side (refer to video tutorial).

Glue baste the two Segments together. Sew directly on the inner, quarter inch black line (start off the edge and end off the edge). Press the seams toward Segment A (this will make the Star Point more prominent than the low volume background). Trim off the dog ear that has formed at the top point of Segment A to reduce bulk.

STEP #2CRepeat Step #1C to attach Segment C.

STEP #1DLayer a Star Point block, batting, and chosen backing, then baste with your preferred basting method. Do so for all 12 Star Point blocks.

Note: Refer to Page 3 for choosing the backing fabric.

#2C

#1D

JOINING SEGMENTS

BASTING THE BLOCKS

One of the things I love about a quilt-as-you-go project is you’re not limited to specific quilting designs or methods that you may be limited to if you were quilting a huge quilt on an itty bitty domestic machine. For example, if I were quilting a queen size quilt, I would free motion quilt it with a design that doesn’t require me to move or turn the quilt around much. I probably wouldn’t straight line or free motion quilt an intricate or dense design. However, since we are quilting block by block, we have a ton of freedom to experiment, tiny machine or not.

For the Star Point blocks, I decided to straight line quilt all my designs (as opposed to free motion quilting). I did this for a few reasons:1. I knew turning the block every which way would be no problem.2. It would allow me to set my machine to a 3.8 stitch length and all my stitches would be the same length.3. It would allow me to quilt a lot of straight lines using the edge of my presser foot as a guide.

In the included video tutorial, you will see I used my regular quarter inch piecing foot as I quilted. I did this because my walking foot has been acting up and I need to purchase a new one, but usually I suggest using an even feed walking foot when machine quilting.

In the video, you will also see that I used a Frixion pen and a ruler to mark some of the quilting designs. If I were free motion quilting, I probably would not have marked my blocks and would have just winged it. However, to achieve straighter lines and consistency for all 12 blocks, I decided to follow markings. Keep in mind if, you use a Frixion pen, it can sometimes leave white marks or reappear when cold, so be sure to test the pen on your fabric first.

QUILTING YOUR BLOCKS

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When choosing quilting designs for these blocks, remember they will be trimmed down later in the year before the quilt is assembled. In FIG. D, you will see the Trimming template laid over the block. The block will eventually (NOT YET) be trimmed on the inner solid line meaning any quilting outside the inner line will be cut off.

I opted to keep my quilting design fairly simple so I wouldn’t loose any swirls, loops, or feathers when I trim the block later.

When you have completed quilting each block, you can bury your thread then trim off any excess batting and backing. Do not trim or cut the actual block. We will do this at the end of the year.

QUILTING SUGGESTIONS FROM KATHLEEN RIGGINS

I have teamed up with Kathleen Riggins of KathleenQuilts.com to offer you even more inspiration for quilting your Technicolor Galaxy quilt.

Kathleen is a professional long-arm quilter who I have long admired and had the pleasure to meet in person at QuiltCon. Kathleen has a blog series called Free Motion Friday, and in this series, quilters can submit a picture of a quilt they’re not sure how to quilt and Kathleen will give quilting suggestions on her blog.

Kathleen will be posting suggestions for all of the Technicolor Galaxy blocks on a monthly basis so you have even more inspiration!

See her suggestions for the Star Point blocks here:http://kathleenquilts.com/2015/03/09/technicolor-galaxy-month-two/

FIG. D

Star Points Coloring Sheet

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