Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds: Complete plans for 12 Sheds, Including...

I • .., r I

CONTEMPORARY

Complete Plans for 12 Sheds, including:

• Garden Outbuilding

• Storage Lean-to

• Playhouse

• Woodland Cottage

• Hobby Studio

• Lawn Tractor Barn

by Philip Schmidt

Creative Publishing international

MINNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA www.creativepub.com

Creative Publishing international

Copyright © 2008 Creative Publishing international, Inc. 400 First Avenue North SUite 300 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 1-800-328-3895 WINW,creativepub,com All lights reserved

Printed at R.R. Donnelley

10987654321

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data

Schmidt, Philip. The complete guide to contemporary sheds: complete plans for 12 sheds,

including playhouse, garden outbuilding, storage lean-to, lawn tractor barn, hobby studio, woodland cottage / by Philip Schmidt.

p. cm. -- (Complete guide) At head of title: Branded by Black & Decker Summary: "Provides practical information for planning and building sheds

of ali types" --Provided by publisher. Includes index. ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-335-5 (soft cover) ISBN-l0: 1-58923-335-2 (soft cover) 1. Sheds--Design and construction--Amateurs' manuals. 2. Toolsheds-

Design and construction--Amateurs' manuals. 3. Outbuildings--Design and construction--Amateurs' manuals. I. Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.) II. Title. III. Title: Branded by Black & Decker. IV. Series.

TH4962.S532oo8 690.89--dc22

2007039143

The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds

PreSident/CEO: Ken Fund Vice President for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd

Home Improvement Group

Publisher: Bryan Trandem Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Senior Editor: Mark Johanson Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar

Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl

Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin Photo Coordinator: Joanne Wawra Shop Manager: Bryan MCLain Shop Assistant: Cesar Fernandez Rodriguez

Production Managers: Linda HailS, Laura Hokkanen

Author: Philip Schmidt Page Layout Artist: Danlelle Smith Photographers: Peter Caley, Andrea Rugg, Joel Schnell Shop Help: Dan Anderson, Taml Helmer, John Webb,

Glenn Austin, Scott Boyd, Lyle Ferguson, David Hartley, Russ Reininger, Syd Thomas, Kevin Weber

Technical Review: Arien Cartrette

Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decke~ is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.

NOTICE TO READERS

For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when fo llowing the procedures described in this book. The Publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided.

The techniques shown In this book are general techniques for various applications. In some Instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for al l dO-It-yourselfers, and some may requ ire professional help.

Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your project.

Contents The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds

Introduction . . . . . .. ... . . . . . .. . . .. ..... .. 4

Essential Outbuildings . ................. . . 6

Building Basics . ........... . ... ... .. . ... 20

Choosing a Site for Your Shed . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . . .. 22

Working with Construction Drawings. · . . .. 24

Anatomy of a Shed . · .. .. 26

Lumber & Hardware . · . . .. 27

Building Foundations . . .... . . . . . . . · .. . . 28

Framing the Structure . . . .. 40

Siding & Trim ................ .. ......... . ........... 62

Doors & Windows .. .. . .. . .. . . . . • . .. . . .. . .. . . . .. . . . . .. 70

Ramps, Steps & Decks ... . ..... . . ... . ..... . •......... . 74

Shed projects . . ..... . . ... . . ... . . . .. . .. . 84

Clerestory Studio . .. .. . 86

Sunlight Garden Shed · . . . 100

Lean-to Tool Bin ... .. . .. . • . .. .. 11 4

Convenience Shed . · .. . 124

Gambrel Garage. . .. . . .. .... . . .. . . . . . 138

Simple Storage Shed . . . ....... 154

Gothic Playhouse .. .. . .. . .. . . ... . .. . . .. . ... . . .. . . . . . 166

Timber-frame Shed . .. . .. . .. . . . . . . .. . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . 180

Service Shed ................. .. ......... .. ......... 192

Metal & Wood Kit Sheds . . .. .. .... . 202

Shed with Fi rewood Bin .............. .. .. .. ... 220

Additional Shed Plans . ..... . , . . .. . .. ... 230

Resources & Credits ....... . ... ... ..... 236

Index .. . ............................ 238

Clerestory Studio . .. .. .. . 86 Sunl ight Garden Shed . . . . 100

Lean-to Too l Bin .... .. ... 114 Convenience Shed ..... .. 124

Gambrel Garage .. .. .. . . . 138 Simple Storage Shed . .. .. 154

Timber-frame Shed . .. .. .. 180

Service Shed . ....... . ... 192 Metal & wood Kit Sheds . .. . 202

I

Introduction

The contemporary backyard shed is much more than a place to park the lawnrnmver. Sheds are st ill grea t for storage, of course, but many homeowners are flndin g added va lue in the ir sheds' less ta ngible qual it ies

privacy, personal expression, a connection to the outdoors. Pe rhaps mos t of all , peop le like the separation from the ma in house. A shed is the perfect place to forget you r duti es or you r day job a nd spen d a fe w hours absorbed in a hobby. For mclllY, it 's an open invi tatio n to come out and play in th e dirt.

Keepi ng in mind that every s hed ca n have a nmge of uses, the custom bu ildings in thi s book a re designed

to be versa til e, prac tical, and adaptabl e. They' re a lso designed for good looks. In terms of prope rty val ue, a shed

can be e ithe r an asset or a liabi lity. Everyone ca n pi cture the fa m ili a r di lapidated t in shed \,vith doors hanging by

one wheel and propped sh ut with conc re te blocks . T hi s is a world apart fro m a handsome building with solid

proportions and fittin g a rchi tectural de tails . A well -bu ilt shed ca n evoke the cha rac ter of a m iniature house or

a small, private cabin or playhouse. A shed can be an appealing outdoor retreat and a so lid compleme nt to yo ur home's landscape.

You can acq uire a DIY shed in o ne of t\VO ways: bui ld it fro m sc ratc h or buy a kit shed made for easy

assembly. This book covers both opt io ns. Eac h of the 10 custom shed projects includes a co mplete set of

constructio n drawings, a detailed materials list, a nd step-by-step inst ructions and photos for building the shed

from the ground u p. For those who prefer the easy-assemb ly route, the re's a full d iscussion of c hoosing a ki t shed ,

plus two projects shm'ving the bas ic steps for asse mbling popu lar kit bu ild ings .

If you don 't have a lot of experie nce with carpentry, don 't worry- the Bui lding Bas ics section of the book

wa lks you th rough the entire construction process . It wi ll a lso help you c hoose the right foundation fo r your s hed

and give you the knowledge to make custom substitu tion s to the projects as shown. Many shed kits involve a fair amount of freehand \vork, as \ve ll , so you're covered even if your kit comes withou t roofing o r a floor.

One of the best aspects of building a shed is that it does n't disrupt da ily life in your home. This makes the project infinitely more pleas urable than, say, a com plete kitchen remode l. So take your time, enjoy the process , und

look forward to years of ge tting away from it a ll. You'll find tha t ge tting even a fe\-\' ya rds away is something special.

• 5

I

Essential Outbuildings

A sk <1 dozen peop le what they would do with a bas ic shed in the ir backyard and you 're bound to

hear as many di fferent answers. Some would certai nly usc the outbu ilding for storage- yard and garden

supplies, play equ ipment, bicycles, cllld other spi llover items fro m the garage. Others would claim the shed fo r more specific pursu its: raising exotic flowers, turn ing pottery, wa tchi ng spo rts on a big-screen T V. Some may eve n imagine the shed as a fu lly equ ipped home office Of, going in the opposite d irection, a

sim ple, quiet retreat for reading and medi tat ion. Regardless of the answers you get, one note \vou ld

ring true: Eac h person could picture himse lf in that sa me building, doing his own thing and Il lling the space with personal stuff. T hat's v,fhat sheds are a ll

about. Like a house, a good shed offers more than shelter and square footage; it's a lso an opportuni ty fo r self-express ion . Perhaps best of a ll , a shed offers t he addit iona l advantage of privacy. You don't have to c lean

it up for guests or worry about tracking mud on the carpet. And if you set it up just right, you v.,ron't even hear the doorbell ringing in the ho use ("Sorry, I must have been ou t in my works hop .... ").

The fo ll owing pages featu re backyard sheds of a ll desc ri ptions a nd for any number of persona l uses. See if you can pictu re yourself in some of the m . Then try to identify features that make those s heds spec ial to you. Chances arc, you can apply those same ideas

when bu ilding you r own backyard getaway.

Whether it's perched at the water's edge or tucked away in the trees, a well -appointed outbUilding can feel a lot like a vacation home.

• 7

Believe it or not, this graciously ornamented shed is easily built from a panelized kit special details like the dormer appear to be the work of a highly skilled carpenter but can actually be assembled by the average do-it-yourselfer.

Door placement impacts a shed's appearance and Its interior layout This centralized door flanked with windows transforms an ordinary shed into a quaint cottage.

8 • THE CO~!IP LETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

No need to get fancy. This humble shed has plenty of charm and blends perfectly With its surroundings.

Designed to suit the setting, th is shed's rustic materials and antique windows add an air of timelessness and easy country living.

Garden folly, playhouse, or work of art? Any of those would be an accurate description. And you can bet the owners had fun building this one.

EsseHlialOulhuildillgs • 9

While kit sheds are based on efficient, modern building concepts, you can still find them in traditional styles With nice, custom details, such as this metal roof.

Shed kit seliers offer a range of accessories and details for adding a custom touch to your shed, Including practical add-ons like window flower boxes and decorative trim.

10 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS

,

Not everyone wants a large, freestanding building In the backyard. Plenty of kit sheds are designed for discreet placement against a house wall or a tall fence.

A deep roof overhang adds character but also shelters windows from hot midday sun- an important consideration for working sheds.

Integrating a shed into a patio plan can help define the space, block unwanted views, and provide shade and handy storage for patio items.


A traditional saltbox shed may look complicated but is nothing more than a simple gabled building with a shed-style addition.

This handsome shed demonstrates how a little trim and some custom details, such as window boxes, shutters, a dutch door, and a chimney, can turn a basic gable structure into something extraordinary

12 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS

In this abundant garden setting, two gambrel-roofed buildings evoke the farming traditions of the American landscape.

Knotty pine paneling and roof sheathing were given a diluted whitewash to create a rustic yet elegant backdrop for this inviting country shed interior.


The most beloved sheds tend to fill up over time, reflecting the passions and philosophies of their owners.

Cedar shingles and open eaves create a seaside-cottage feeling in this shed, even in the middle of a wooded lot.

14 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS

The tranquil and graceful character of ASian garden structures has inspired countless western designers.

EsseH lialOulhuildillgs • 15

16 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS

On the outside, th is artist's retreat displays the proud utility of classic New England architecture (left), while the lovingly decorated interior (this page) bears the personal mark of its owners. With the finished ceiling, fireplace, and double-hung windows, this furnished shed functions as a guest house.


Because sheds are relatively small, materials upgrades, such as cedar shingles instead of asphalt roofing or plywood siding, can stili be affordable.

used as a sun room in cooler weather, this shed greatly enhances the function and beauty of th is outdoor gathering place.

18 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

Greenhouses have inspired many versatile shed designs. Windows on the roof bring in plentiful light for growing.


I

Building Basics

A lmost everything you've ever \\'anted to kno"v abou t

bu ild ing a shed is in this sect ion. Each element of the construc tion project is covered in deta il- fro m selecting a site to bu ilding the foundation to framing

the Aoor, \Ved is, and roof. You' ll also learn <Jbout buying

lumber <:I nd hard\vare. After your shed is built, return to

this sect ion for help with adding a ram p, deck, or ste ps . Because the va riolls elements are presented a la

carte, you can pick and choose the designs and materials

you like best. For the foundat ion, it makes sense to

choose a type based on the shed's location. Several drawings in th is book call for a \vooden slUd foundation

(which is the easiest to bui ld), but a concrete bloc k foundation may be a better choice for a sloping site.

Be Slife to have your project plans approved by the local bu ild ing department before starting construction . This is especially important if you're making substitutions to the plans featured in the Shed Projects section.

In This Chapter:

• Choosing a Site for Your Shed

• Working with Construction Drawings

• Anatomy of a Shed

• Lumber & Hardw are

• Building Foundations

• Framing the Structure

• Roofing

• Siding & Trim

• Doors & Window s

• Ramps, Steps & Decks

• 21

I Choosing a Site for Your Shed

The first step in choosi ng a site for your building doesn't take place in you r backya rd but at the

local building and zoning de partments. By visiting the

departme nts, or making calls, you should determine a few things abollt your project before making any

dennite plan s. iVlost importantly, find Ollt \.vhether

your proposed building will be a llowed by zon ing

regulations and w hat specifi c res tri c tions apply to your

situation. Zoning laws govern such matters as the size

and he ight of the bUilding and the percentage of your

property it occupies, the building's location , Clnd its

position relative to the hOllse, neighboring propert ies,

the street, e tc. From the building s ide of things, as k if yo u need

a permit to build your st ructure. [f so, you' ll have to

submit plan drawings (photocopied plans from this

book should suffice), as wcll as specification s for the

foundation and materia ls an d esti mated cost. Once

your project is approved , you may need to buy a

permit to display on the building site, and you may be

required to show you r \-vo rk at scheduled inspections.

Because outbuildings are detached and

freestanding, codes typica ll y govern them loose ly.

Many impose restrictions or require permits only on

st ructures larger than 100, or even 120, square feet.

Others drmv the line \,vith the type of founda tion

used. [n some areClS, buildings \vith concrete s lClb or

pier foundati ons are classifi ed as "perma ne nt" and

thu s a re su bjec t to a spec ific set of res tric tions (and

taxation, in some cases), while buildings that a re

se t on skids and can- in theory at least- be moved are cons idered temporary or accessory and may be

exempt from the genera l building codes.

Once you get the green light from the local

authorities, you CCln tro mp around you r yard vv ith

a tape measure and stake your claim for the new

building. Of cou rse, you'll have plenty of personal

and practical reasons for placing the building

in a particular a rea, but he re arc a few ge ne ral

cons id erations to keep in mind:

Soil & drainage: To e nsu re that yo ur foundation

will last (whatever type it is), plant you r building on

sol id so il , in an ClreCl that vvon't collect \vater.

Access: For trucks, vv heelbarrovvs, kids, etc. Do

you want access in a ll seasons?

Utility lin es : Contact loca l ordinances to find

out where th e water, gas, septic, and e lectrical lines


run through yo ur property. Often, local ordinances

and utility companies requi re that lines a re marked

before digging. This is an essential step not only

because of legalities , but also because you do n't

\vant your building si tting over lines that Illay

need repair.

Setback requirements: Most zoning laws dictate

that all buildings, fences, e tc ., in a yard must be se t

back a spec ific distance from the property line. T hi s

setback may range from 6" to 3 feet or more.

Neighbors: To prevent civil unrest, o r even a fe\\'

"veeks of ignored greetings, talk to you r neighbors

about you r project.

View from the house: Do you wan t to admire

you r handi\,vork from the dinner table, or would

you prefer that you r outbuilding blend in with the

outdoors? A pl ayhou se in p lai n view makes it easy to

check o n the kids.

Setback

lin~ s , , , , , , , , , : , , : , ,

" " " " "

I Siting for Sunlight

Like houses, sheds can benefit enormously from natu ra l light. Bringing su nlight into you r backya rd

ofnce, workshop, or garden house makes the interior

space brighter and warmer, a nd it's the best: thi ng fo r

combati ng CI boxy feel. To make the most of natura l ligh t, t he gene ra l ru le is to orient the buildi ng so its

long side (or the side with the most \,vindows) faces south. Hmvever, be su re to consider the sun's pos it ion at a ll times of the year, as wel l as the shadO\,vs your shed might cast on su rrou nding areas, suc h as a garden or outdoor si tt ing a rea.

SEASONAL CHANGES Each day the sun crosses the sky CIt a sl ightly d ifferent angle, moving from its high poin t in summer to its low

poin t in \,vinte r. Shadows change accordingly. In the sum mer, shadows fo\lm·v the east·\vest axis and are very short at m idday. \A!inte r shadows poi nt to the northeast and northwest a nd arc rela t ively long at midday.

Genera lly, the south side of a building is exposed to

su nlight throughout the year, while the north side may be shaded in fall, winter, and spring. Geographical locat ion is <:I lso <:I factor: <:IS you move north from the equator, the changes in the sun's p<:lth become more extreme.

Summer afternoon

Summer morning

Summer evening

:x: Shadows follow the east-west axis in the summer.

June 22

,. , • , Mar/Sept 22 , \

\ ~ -

\ "" .,' . , y. .. '

• I

, . , .. L-o--.--.. , . ' I

I I , , , Dec 22

, ----- .. ., ... ,..'" .. . .. • .. . ..•. .., .. I .....•...

I I •

, , , "

, ,

I I

I ,

The sun moves from its high point in summer to its low pOint in winter. Shadows change accordingly.

Winter afternoon

Winter morning

Winter evening :x:

Winter shadows point to the northeast and northwest and are relative ly long at midday.

BlIihii llg Basics • 23

I Working with Construction Drawings

The projects in this book include complete construction drawings in the style of arch itectural

blueprints. If you're not fa miliar wi th reading plans, don't worry; they're easy to use once YO LI know how to look at the d ifferent views. Flipping back and forth benveen the plan drawings and the project's s tep~by~s tep

photos \vill help you visua lize the actua l structure.

Note: TIle drawings i-It this hooh are accurately

proportioned, but they are not sized to a specific scale.

Also, di1llensio'Hs specified in the drawings are given in feet and inches (for exa1/lple, 6'-8"), the standard

jonllot for architectural plan.s. For your convenience, the

written instructions may give dimensions in inch.es so you don't h.ave to make th.e conversion.

~_-- Wood shakes _--- Roof hub

2 x 8 Hip rolter beyond

2 x 8 Intermediate rofter beyond

Eave detail

Floor beams (2)2 x 8 x 8 Treated (enter pier pad - shim to proper height

Concrete pier

12" Dio . poured (onuete pier - extend below irostline

The building section is the most comprehensive drawing, giving you a side view of the structure sliced in half down the middle. It shows both the framing and finish elements.

24 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SHEDS

r-I r - fJ ,..-

~ Q r--=

1:'---1'---r:=i,--

v--

Elevations give you a direct, exterior view of the building from all sides. Drawings may include elevations for both the framing and the exterior finishes.

----=-dil~~--

Plan views are overhead views looking straight down from above the structure. Floor plans show the layout of the walls or upright supports, with the top half of the structure sliced off. There are also foundation plans, roof framing plans, and other plan views.

Detail drawings and templates show a close-up of a specific area or part of the structure. They typically show a side or overhead view.

I Anatomy of a Shed

Shown as a c utaway, this shed ill ust rates man y of the s tanda rd building co m ponents an d how they fit together. It can also hel p you u nders ta nd t he major co nst ruct ion stages- eac h project in thi s book incl udes a s pec ific cons tru ctio n seq ue nce, but mos t fo ll ow the standard stages in some fo rm :

Common

Roof sh"athin.~

Building

Roof shingles

Drip


] . Foundation- inc luding preparing the site and adding a d ra inage bed;

2. Fr"ming- the floo r is nrst , fo llowed by the walls, then the roof;

3. Roollng- add ing sheathing, building paper, and roofl ng material;

4 . Exterior flni s hcs- inc luding siding, trim, and doors a nd windows.

overhang rafter

Cripple stud

King stud

Floor frame

Foundation skid

Jack stud

I Lumber & Hardware

Lumbe r types most commo nly used in outbuildings

are pine- or re lated softwoods- or cedar, which is natu ra lly rot- res istan t and is less expensive t heln most

ot he r rot- res istant "vood s. For pine to be rot-res is tan t ,

it mllst be press ure-treated , typi cally with a chemica l

mixture called CCA (C hroma ted Copper Arsenate).

Pressure- treated lu mber is cheaper than cedar, but it's

not as attractive, so you may want to usc it only in areas

where appearance is unimportant. Plyvvood des ignated as

exterior-grade is made wi th layers of cedar or treated wood

a nd a specia l glue tha t makes it weather-resistant. For

the long fun, though, it's a good idea to cover any exposed pl)'\,,'ood edges to prevent \vate r intrusion.

Fram ing lumber- typica lly pine or pressure-t reated

pi ne----comes in a fe\\' d ifferent grades: Select Struc tura l

(SEL STR), C onstruction (C O NST) or Standard

(STAND), and Utility (UTIL) For most a pplica tions,

Construction Grade No.2 offers the bes t balance

bet\veen quality and price. Utili ty grade is a lower-cost

lumber suitable for blocking and similar uses but

sho uld no t be used for structura l mem bers, such as

studs and rafte rs . You can also buy "STU D" lumber:

constructio n-grade 2 x 4s cut at t he s tandard stud le ngth of 92%". Note: Treated lU1Itber stwuld be left exposed for approxiJltately 6 'lIJ.onths before applying finishes. Finishes will not adhere well to treated lumber t1wt is still very green or wet. Lumber manufacturers liheLy have recO'lltJllended ti-III.es for their product.

Board lumber, or fi ni sh lumber, is graded by

qua lity and appearance, with the main cri teria being

the number a nd size of kno ts present. "C lear" pine, for

exam ple , has no knots. AJ llumber has a nomi nal dimension (what it's

ca lled) and an ac tual dime nsion (what it actually

measures). A chart on page 237 shO\,,,s the differences

For some common lumber sizes. Lumber that is greater

than 4" thick (nomina lly) generally is referred to as

timber. Depending on its surface texture and type, a

ti mber may actually measu re to its nominal di mensions,

so check th is out before buying. Ceda r lumber also

va ries in size, depending on its surface texture. S4S

(Surfaced-Four-Sides) lu mber is milled smooth on all

sides and follows the standard dimensioning, wh ile boards

with one or more rough surfaces can be over 1,1;" thicke r.

vVhen selecting hardware for your project, remem ber

one thing: All nails, screws, bolts, hinges, and anchors

that \\~II be exposed to weathe r or rest on concrete

or that come in contact with treated lumber must be

corrosion-resistant . T he best all -around choice for nai ls

and screws is hot-d ipped galvan ized steel, recogn izable

by its rough, dull -s ilver coat ing. Hot-dipped fastene rs

generally hold up better than the smoother, e lec troplated

types, and they're the recommended choice for

pressure-treated lumbe r. Aluminum and stain less steel are

other materia ls suitable for outdoor exposure; however,

alu m inum fasteners corrode some types of treated lu m ber.

vVh ile expensive, stainless steel is the best guaran tee agai nst stai ning from fasteners on cedar and redw·ood.

Another type of hardware you'll fi nd throughout

this book is the metal anchor, or fram ing connecto r,

used to re inforce v,lood framing connec tions. All

of the a nchors called for in the plans a re S impso n

Strong~Tie® brand (see Resources), w hich a re ava ilabl e

at most lumbe rya rds and home centers. If you can't

find vvhat you need o n the shelves , look through one of

the manufacturer's catalogs or visi t the man ufact u rer's

\vebsite. You can a lso order custom-made hangers.

Keep in mind that meta l anchors are e ffective only

if they arc insta lled correctly- a lways follow the

manufactu re r's insta lla tion ins tructions, and usc

exactly the type and numbe r of fastene r recommended.

Final ly, app lying a finish to your project will he lp

protect the wood from rot , fading and disco loration,

and insects. Pine or s im ilar untreated lumber must

have a protective finish if it's exposed to the e lements,

but even ceda r is susceptible to rot over time and will

turn gray if left bare. If you pa int the wood, apply a

primer first- thi s helps the paint stic k an d makes it last

longe r. If you wan t to preserve the na tu ra l wood gra in,

use a stain or clear nnish.

A combination of sheet stOCk, appearance-grade lumber, and structural lumber is used in most sheds.

BlI ihiillg Basics • 27

I Building Foundations

Your shed's foundation provides a level, stab le

structure to bui ld upon and protects the bUi lding

fro m moisture a nd erosion. In this sectio n you' ll lea rn

how to bu il d Rve of the most co mm on types of shed

foundat ions. All but the concrete p ier fo undat io n are

"o n-grade" designs, meani ng they are bu ilt on top of

t he ground and can be subject to rising and 100vc ring

a few inches du ring seasona l freezing and t hawing

of the u nderlying soi l. This usual ly is n't a problem

s ince a shed is a sma ll , freestand ing structure that's

not attac hed to other buildi ngs. Hov,lever, it ca n

adversely affect some inter ior Il n is hes (wall boa rd,

fo r exa mp le ).

Whe n c hoosi ng a foundat ion type for

you r shed, conside r the spec ific s ite a nd the

performance qua li ties of a ll sys tems in va rious

c li mates; t hen check w ith the loca l b ui ld ing

I Wooden Skid Foundation

A skid fou ndation couldn't be Si mple r: t",/o or more treated

wood beams or landscape timbers (typ ically 4 X 4, 4 x 6,

or 6 X 6) set on a bed of gravel. T he gravel provides a fiat,

stable surface that drains we ll to help keep the timbers dl)'.

O nce the skids are set, the floor fmme is buil t on top of

them and is ml iled to the skjds to keep everythi ng in place.

Bu ild ing a skid Foun dation is merely a matter of

prepari ng the gravel base, the n cutt ing, se tt ing, and

leveling the tim bers. The tim bers you use must be

ra ted for grou nd contact . It is customary, but purely

optiona l, to make angled cuts on the ends of t he

skids- these add a m inor decorat ive touch and make it

easier to skid t he shed to a new location, if necessary.

Because a skid fou ndat ion sits o n t he gro und, it is

subject to sl igh t sh ifting due to frost in cold-wea ther

department to learn w hat's al lowed in your

area. Some foundations, suc h as concrete slabs,

m ay c laSS ify s heds as per manent structures,

wh ic h can affect prope rty taxes, among oth e r

consequences. Hes ide n ts in many areas may

need to insta ll spec ial ti e-down s or gro und

anc hors accord ing to loca l laws . If your building

department requ ires a "frost-p roof' fou ndation (so

the bui lding won't move with the freezing ground ),

you s hou ld be ab le to pass inspection by bui ld ing

yo u r s hed on co ncrete piers (see page 32). Note: I-nfoflllation for fanning, reinforcing, and bracin.g deeper foundation. walls is Hot included here. A safe rnle of thulltb is th.at tile depth required to get below the frost li.ne in cold climates is 4 feet, though colder

places like Canad" and Alaska can have frost depth.s up to 8 feet.

cl imates. Often a shed that has risen out of level will

correct itself with the spring thaw, but if it doesn't, you

can lift t he shed wi th jacks on the low side and add

gravel beneat h t he skids to level it .

Tools & Materials ~

Shove l

Rake

4-ft. level

Straight, 8-ft. 4 x 4

Hand tamper

Circu lar sa\v

Square

Treated wood t imbers

Compac ti ble gravel

''''ood scaler-preservative

I How to Build a Wooden Skid Foundation

STEP 1: PREPARE THE GRAVEL BASE A. Hemove 4" of so il in a n area about 12" wider a nd

longer than t he d imens ions of the bu ild ing.

B. Fill t he excavated area with a 4" layer of

compactible gravel. Rake t he gravel smooth,

then check it fo r level us ing a 4-ft. level and a


straight, 8-ft .-long 2 x 4 . Rake the gravel until it is

fair ly leve l. C. Tamp the gravel thoroughly using a ha nd tamper

or a rented plate co m pactor. As you vmrk, check

the surface with the board and level, and add or

remove gravel u nt il t he surface is leve l.

STEP 2: CUT & SET THE SKIDS A. Cut the skids to le ngth, using a c irc ular s;:wv or

rec ip rocating saw. (Skids typi cally run parallel to the length of the building and are cu t to the same dimension as the Aoor frame. )

B. To angle-cut the ends, measure down I Y2 1! to 211 from the top edge of eac h skid. Use a square to mark a 45 ° cu tt ing line down to the bottom edge. then make the c uts.

C. Coat the cut ends of the slcids "'.l ith a wood sealerpreservative and let them dry.

D. Set the skids on the grave l so they are para lle l and their en ds arc even. Make sure the outer skids arc spaced accord ing to the \\liclth of t he building.

If desired, mark and clip the bottom corners of the skid ends. Use a square to mark a 45 0 angle cut.

Excavate the building site and add a 4" layer of compactible gravel. Level, then tamp the gravel with a hand tamper or rented plate compactor (inset).

STEP 3 : LEVEL THE SKIDS A. Leve l one of the outside skids, adding or

removing gravel from underneath. Set the level parallel and level the skid a long its length , then set the level perpe ndicu lar and level t he skid along its width.

B. Place the straight 2 x 4 a nd level across the erst and second ski ds, the n adjust the seco nd skid un til it's level \vi th the fi rst. lVlci ke SLIre the seco nd

skid is level along its vv idth. C. Leve l the re ma ini ng sk id s in the same fashion ,

then set the board and level ac ross a ll of the sk ids to ma ke su re they they a re leve l w ith one a nother.

using a board and a level, make sure each skid is level along its width and length, and is level with the other skids.

BlIihiillg Basics • 29

I Concrete Block Foundation

Concrete block foundations are easy and inexpensive

to build . In terms of simp li city, a block foundation is

second only to the wooden skid. But the real beauty of

th is design is its abi lity to accommodate a sloping site:

All you have to do is add blocks as needed to make the

fOllndatio n leveL Blocks suitable for foundations are commonly

ava ilable at home centers and masonry suppl iers.

Standard blocks measure 8 X 16" and come in 211 and 4 11

th icknesses . Be sure to usc only solid concrete blocks,

not rcgular bu ilding block- the kind with large voids

for fil ling v'lith concrete. A lso avoid the various types of

decorative block, which may have holes or odd shapes

and probctbly won't be strong enough for th is application. On a level site, YOLI ca n lise a Single 41!-thick block

for each support point. O n a slope, a com hi nation of 4" and 2" bloc ks should get you close e nough to shim

Tools & Materials ~

Mason's li nes & stakes

Excavation tools

Hand tamper

2- ft . level

4-ft. level

Long, straight 2 X 4

Cau lkj ng gun

Compactible gravel

Solid concrete blocks

Asphalt shingles or

I X 8 prcssu re

treated lumber,

as needed

Construction

ad hesive


(vvith lum ber or asphalt shingles) the foundation up to

level. Setting the blocks on smal l beds of gravel helps

prevent eros ion or excess water from underm ining

the foundat ion. Avoid excavating and rell iling

beneath the blocks other than to create a base for

compactible gravel, as that may lead to sett ling. Note: All reinforcing steel (bars, mesh, or anchor bolts) should have a mini'lltulll of 1 Y2" concrete cover. Without this cover, steel will likely rust and cause spalling of concrete.

Tip ~

A 2 x 8 mud sill adds strength to a standard 2 x 6 floor frame. First, you fasten the side rim joists to the sill, then you set the assembly on top of the foundation blocks and install the remaining floor jOists.

A foundation created with solid concrete blocks on a prepared base is simple to build and makes an easy solution to dealing with low slopes.

I How to Build a Concrete Block Foundation

STEP 1: PREPARE THE SITE A. Using four mason's lines t ied to stakes, plot the

fo undation layout. T he foundation exterior should

equa l the outer dimensions of the floor frame.

Use the 3-4-5 meth od to e nsure perfect ly sq uare

byollt lines. B. l\~a rk the bl ock locations onto the st ri ngs,

and then onto the ground: Locate the corne r blocks at the string inte rsections, and locate th e intermed iate blocks at equa l interva ls between the corner blocks. For an 8 x 10-ft. or 8 x 12-ft. shed,

one row of fou r b locks (or block stacks) running

down eac h s ide of the shed is sufficient.

C. Remove the mason's li nes, but leave the stakes in p lace . At each bloc k location dig a 16 X 20" ho le

tha t is 4" deep. Tamp the soi l.

D. Add a laye r of compactib le grave l in eac h hole

and tamp \vell, adding gravel if necessary to bring

the top of the gravel up to grade. Tamp a ll added

grave l.

STEP 2: SET THE BLOCKS A. For the first b lock, rc tie the mason's lines. At

the highest point on the gravel bcd, squa re up a 4"-th ick block to the layou t lines.

B. Leve l the block in both directions, adding or

removing gravel as needed . C. Tape a 4-ft. level to the cen te r of a long,

straight 2 x 4. D. Set lip eac h of the rema in ing blocks or bloc k

stacks, using the level and 2 X 4 spanni ng from

the first block to ga uge the proper heigh t. Sta rt

eac h stack wi th a 4"-thick block, an d make

sure the b lock itse lf is level before add ing more b locks. Use 2" b loc ks as needed to add he ight,

or s h im stacks \"l ith tri mmed pieces of asphalt

shi ngles or I x 8 pressure-treated lumber.

E. Use the level and 2 X 4 to make su re a ll of the

blocks and stacks are leve l with one a nother.

STEP 3: GLUE THE BLOCK STACKS A. G lue stac ked bl ocks together with co nstruc tion

adhes ive. Also glue [lny shi m material to the tops

of the blocks.

B. Afte r gl uing, check to make su re a ll blocks and

stacks are level with one another, and that they

a re on the layout lines, the n remove th e stri ngs

an d stakes.

create a bed of compacted gravel centered at each block location in your layout.

Set a block at the highest point on the site, check it with a level, and adjust as needed. (Inset) Use a level and board spanning across the blocks to establish the height of each stack so all the tops are level.

Bind stacked blocks together with exterior-rated construction adhesive to prevent shifting.


I Concrete Pier Foundation

Foundatio n piers are pou red co ncrete cylinders that you form using card board tubes . T he tubes come in severa l diameters and are commonly availab le from

bu ilding materials supp liers. For a standard 8 x 10-ft. shed, a su itable fou ndat ion consists of one row of th ree 8 11 -diameter piers funning dO\'VIl the long sides

of the shed. You can anc hor the shed's floor fra me to the piers

llsing a va riety of methods. T he simplest method (shown here) is to bo lt a wood block to the top of each pier, the n faste n the floor frame to the blocks . Other

anc hori ng options invo lve metal post bases and va rious

fram ing connectors e it her set into the \vet concrete or fastened to the piers after the concrete has cu red. Be


Slire to consu lt yo ur loca l bu ilding departmen t for

the recommended or requi red anchori ng specifications. Piers that extend be low the frost line-the ground

depth to which the earth freezes each winter- wi ll keep your shed fro m sh ift ing during annuul freeze-thaw cyc les. Thi s is a stcllldu rd requ irement for mujor st ructures, like houses, bu t not typically fo r Freesta nd ing sheds (check \,vith your bu ild ing department), Another advantage of the pier foun dation is that you can extend the piers wel l above the ground to accom modate a s loping site . Note: All concrete

sh01dd have contpacted gravel utu:lerneath and aga;-nst

bach walls as bachfill. All reinforcing steel shoHld have

a ntinimum of J Y2 " concrete cover.

I How to Build a Concrete Pier Foundation

Tools & Materials ~

C ircu lar saw

Drill

Mason's line

Sledgehammer

Line level

Framing squa re

Plumb bob

Shovel

Posthole digger

Rec iprocating sm\'

or handsaw Utility kni fe

Ratchet wre nch

2 x 4 lumber

STEP 1: CONSTRUCT THE BATTER BOARDS A. Cu t two 24"- long 2 X 4 legs for each batte r board

(for most projects you 'll need eight batter boards

tota l) . Cut one end square and cut t he other end to

a sharp point, using a circ ular saw. Cut one 2 x 4

crosspiece fo r each bCltter board at ctbout l8", B. Assemble c<:Ich batter bOClrd lIsing 2W' sc rews.

Fasten the crossp iece about 2" from the square

e nds of the legs. fvJake sure the legs are para ll el

and the crosspiece is perpendicu lar to the legs.

2 W' scrc\vs Stakes

Nails

Masking tape

Cardboa rd

concrete forms

Pape r

Concrete mix

J-bo lts with washers

and nuts

2 X 10 pressure· trea ted

lumber (rated for

grou nd contac t)

STEP 2 : SET THE BATTER BOARDS & ESTABLISH PERPENDICULAR MASON'S LINES A. Measure and mark t he locations of t he four corner

piers wi th stakes, following your project p lan.

B. Set two batter boa rds to form a co rn e r a bo ut

18" beh ind eac h sta ke. Dri ve the ba tte r

boards into th e ground un ti l t hey are sec ure ,

keepi ng the c ross pi eces rough ly leve l with

one a nother.

(continued)

BlI ihiillg Basics • 33

Cut the batter board pieces from 2 x 4 lumber and assemble them with screws.

C. St retc h a mason's line between t\·vo batter boards at opposing corne rs (not diagona lly) and tic the

ends to neli ls driven in to the top edge of the

crossp ieces; a lign the nai ls and li ne with the stakes. Attac h a li ne leve l to the line, and pu ll the

line very taLlt , making Sli re it's level before tying it.

D. liu n a second level line perpendicu la r to the

first: Tie off th e end that's closest to the first

str ing, then stretch the line to the opposing batter

board whil e a he lper holds a framing sguare at the intersection of th e lines. 'VVhen the lines are

perpendicu lar, drive a nail and t ie off th e far e nd. E. Confi rm that the lines are exactly pe rpe nd icular,

llsing the 3A -5 method : Starting at the

intersection , measu re 3 ft . a long one st ring and make a mark onto a pi ece of masking tape.

Mark the othe r st ring 4 ft. from the inte rsection.

Meas ure diagonally between the two marks;

the distance should eq ual 5 ft. lieposition th e

second st ring, if necessary, unti l the diagona l

me<Jsurement is 5 ft.

STEP 3: MARK THE FOOTING LOCATIONS A. Following you r plan , meas ure from the exis ting

lines and use the 3-4-5 method to ad d two more

perpendi cu lar lines to form a layou t with four

90° corners. Use the li ne level to make su re t he

mason's lines a re level. The in tersections of the

lines sho uld mark the centers of the corner p ie rs,

not necessa rily the outside edge of Roor fram ing.

B. C heck the squa re ness of you r line layout by

measu ring diagonally from corner to corner: vv hen

the measurements are equal, the frame is sq uare.

iVlake any necessary adjustments.


Tie the mason's lines securely to the nails, and level the lines with a line level (inset, left). Use tape to mark paints on the lines (inset, light).

C. Plu mb down with a plumb bob and place a stake

directly under eac h li ne intersection. iVla rk the

locations of intermediate piers onto the layout st rings,

then plumb down <Jnd drive stakes at those locations.

D. Untie each line at one end onl y, the n co il the line

and place it out of the way. Leaving one e nd tied

wil l make it easier to restring the lines la te r.

STEP 4: SET THE FORMS A. Dig holes for the forms, centering them aroun d

the stakes. The ho les shoul d be a few inches

larger in diameter tha n the cardboa rd for ms. T he

hole depth rn ust rneet the loca l bu ilding code

req ui re ments- add 4" to the depth to a llow fo r

a layer of gravel. For deep ho les, use a posthole

digge r or a rented power auger. Add 4 II of gravel

to the bottom of eac h hole.

B. Cut each cardboard form so it will extend at least

3" above the grou nd . The tops of all pie rs/ forms

should be level with eac h other. Also, the top

ends of the forms m ust be straight, so place the

fac tory-cut e nd up, whenever possib le. Otherwise,

mark a straight cutting li ne usi ng a large piece

of paper vv ith at least one straight edge : \J\lrap

the pape r completely arou nd the form so that it

overlaps itse lf a few inches. Pos ition the straight

edge of the paper on the cutt ing mark, and al ign

the overlappi ng edges of the paper with each other.

iVlark around the tube along the edge of the paper.

Cu t the tube with a reciprocat ing saw or handsaw.

C. Set the tubes in the holes and fill in around them "oth

di rt. Set a level across the top of each tube to make sure the top is level as you secure the tube \A,~th dirt.

Pack the dirt fi rmly, us ing a shovel handle or a stick.

Use a plumb bob to mark the pier locations. Drive a stake into the ground directly below the plumb bob pointer

Fill the forms with concrete, then set the J-bolts. Check with a plumb bob to make sure the bolts are centered.

STEP 5: POUR THE CONCRETE A. Hestring the mason's lines and confirm that the

forms are posit ioned accurately. B. Mix the conc rete follov,ring the manufact urer's

directio ns; pre pare on ly as muc h as YO LI ca n eas ily

work \,vith before the concrete se ts . F ill each form

with concrete, lls ing a long stick to tamp it dO\vn

and elim inate air pockets in the concrete. O verllll

the form sligh tl y.

C. Leve l the co ncrete by pulling a 2 x 4 on edge

across th e top of the form, using a side-to-side

sawing motion. Fill low spots with conc rete so

that the top is perfect ly Aat.

D. Set a J-bolt into the wet concrete in the center of

the form. Lower the bolt slowly, wiggling it slight ly to eliminate air pockets. Use a plumb bob to make

sure the bolt is al igned exactly with th e mark on

Wrap paper around the form to mark a straight cutting line (Inset). Set the forms In the holes on top of a 4" gravel layer.

Anchor a block to each pier with a washer and nut. If desired, countersink the hardware (inset).

t he mason's line. Note: You can set the bolt at J Yi ll above the concrete so it will be flush with the top of the bloch, or extend it abont 2/1" so the washer and nut will si t on top of tile block; doing the latter means you won't have to countersink the washer and nut. Make sure the bolt is plu'lHb, then smooth the concrete around the bolt and let the concrete cnre.

STEP 6: INSTALL THE WOOD BLOCKS A. Cut 8 X 8" square blocks f rom 2 X 10 pressure

treated lumber that's rated for ground contact.

B. Drill a hole for the J-bol t through the exact center of

each block; if you're countersinlUng the hClfd\vare,

flrst drill a counterbore for the washe r and nut.

C. Position each bloc k on a pie r, then add a galva nized

was her and nu t. Use the layollt strings to align the

blocks, then tighten thc nuts to secure the blocks.


I Concrete Slab Foundation

The slab foundatio n commonly used for sheds is ca lled a sla b-on-grade foundation. This co mbines a 3W'- to 4"-thick fl oor slab with an 8"- to 12"- thi ck

perimeter footing that provides extra s upport for the wall s of the building. The whole foundation ca n be poured at one time using a s imple \vood fOfm.

Beca use they sit above ground, slab-on-grade foundations arc susceptible to frost heave and in cold-weather climates arc suitable only for detached buildings. Specific design requirements a lso vary by loca lity, so c hec k with the loca l building department

regarding the depth of the slab, the meta l reinforcement

required, the type an d amou nt of gravel required for

the subbase, and whether plastic or another type of moisture barrier is needed under the slab.

Tools & Materials ~

C ircu lar S3\'V

Drill

Mason's line

Sledgehammer Line level

Fra ming sq ua re

Shovel

Wheel ba rrow

Re nted plate compactor

Bolt cutte rs

Bull floa t

Hand-held

concrete float

Co ncrete edger Compacti ble gravel 2 X 3 & 2 X 4 lumber I ~!I & 2Y2"

deck screws lI," A-C plywood

Sd nails

5 X IO-ft. welded wire

mesh (W'vVM )

1 Y2 1! brick pavers

J-bolts

2"-thick rigid fO<:lm in sulation

The slab shown in thi s project has a 3l;2"-thick interior wi th an 8 11 -wide X 8"-deep footi ng a long the

perimeter. The top of the slab sits 4" above ground level, or grade. T here is a 4"-thick layer of compacted gravel underneath the slab cllld the concre te is rein fo rced intermtlly v.l ith a layer of 6 x 6" ''YIo we lded wire mes h (WWM ). (In so me areas, you may be

req uired to add rchar in the found ation perimetercheck the loca l code. ) After the conc re te is poured

and finished , 8"- long ga lvani zed J-bo lts a rc set into the

sla b along the edges . These arc used later to anchor

the wa ll framing to the slab. Note: ALL concrete should have compacted graveL underneath and again.st the back wall as backfill. All reinforcing steel should ',ave a minimum of J Y2 !! concrete cover.

Btl -thick perimeter

Plywood form

I How to Build a Concrete Slab Foundation

STEP 1: EXCAVATE THE SITE A. Set up batter boards and run level mason's lines

to represent the outer dimensions of the s lab. Use the 3-4-5 method to ma ke sure your lines

a re perpendi cula r, and c heck your final layout for

squareness by measuri ng the diagona ls. B. Excavate the area 4 11 wide r and longer than the

string layo ut- this provides some room to work . For the footi ng port ion a long the perimeter, dig a trench that is 8" wide X 8" deep.


C. Re move 3Y/ of soil over t he interior porti on of th e s la b, th en s lo pe th e

inner si des of the trenc h a t 4 5°. Set up temporary c ross strings to c hec k th e depth as you wo rk .

D. Add a 4" layer of compactible grave l ove r

t he entire excavation and rake it level. Compact the gravel thoroughly, usi ng a ren ted plate co m pactor. Note: 1111 areas are to be level (fiat ).

Measure down from the layout lines and temporary cross strings to check the depth of the excavation .

Drive stakes every 12" to support the form, using the mason's lines to make sure the form remains straight.

STEP 2: BUILD THE FORM A. C ut sheets of %" A-C plyv/ood into six strips

of equal \vidth-about 7 'lij1l, a llowing for the th ickness of the saw blade. To make sure the cuts a re st raight , lise a table saw or a circular saw

and straightedge. B. Cu t the p lywood strips to le ngth to c reate the sides

of the form. Cut t\VO sides 1 W I long so they can

overlap the remain ing two sides. For sides that are longer t heln 8 ft. , joi n t\VO st rips \·vith a me nd ing plate made of scrap plywood; faste n the plate to

the back sides of the strips with I Y.t" screws . C. Assemble the form by fasten ing the corners

toge ther wi th screws . T he form 's in ne r d ime nsio ns must equa l the outer dime nsions of the s la b.

STEP 3: SET THE FORM A. Cut 18"- long stakes from 2 X 3 lu mbe r- you' ll

need o ne sta ke for eve!), linear foot of form , p lus

Assemble the form pieces with 2W deck screws, then check the inner dimensions of the form. For long runs, jOin pieces with plywood mending plates.

Layout sheets of wire mesh, tie the rows together, then prop up the mesh with brick pavers or metal bolsters.

one extra stake for eac h corne r. Taper one e nd of eac h stake to a point.

B. Plaee the form in the trench and align it with the mason's lines. Drive a stake near the end of each

side of the form, sett ing the stake edge aga inst the form a nd d riving dovm to 3 11 above grade.

C. Measuring down from the mason's lines, position the form 4" above grade. Tack the form to the stakes w ith part ia lly drive n 8d na ils (driven through the form into the stakes). Measure the

diagonals to make su re the form is sq uare a nd check that the top of the form is level. Drive the nails comple tel y.

D. Add a stake every 12" and drive the m down be low the top edge of the form . Secure th e form \",' it h two Sd na ils driven into each stake. As you

work, c heck with a string line to make su re the form sides are straight and the tops are level, and meas ure the diagona ls to check for square.

(continued)


Screed the concrete after filling the form, uSing two people to screed, while a th ird fi lls low spots with a shovel.

STEP 4: ADD THE METAL REINFORCEMENT A. Layou t rO\·vs of 6 X 6" lo/io we lded \·vire mes h so

their ends are J V/ to 2" fro m the insides of the fo rms. C ut the mes h "v ith bo lt cutters or heavy pl ie rs, and stand on the unro lled mesh as you cut, to prevent it from sp ringing back. Overl ap the sheets of mes h by 61! and t ic the m together with t ic wire .

B. Prop up the mesh with pieces of I Yi'-th ick bric k pavers or metal bolsters. The WWM should be just belov,r the center of the slab (about 2" down in a 3V2" slab).

C. Ma rk the layout of the J-bolts onto the top edges of t he form , fol lowing your plan . (J-bolts typically are p laced 4" to 6" from eac h corner and every

3 ft. in between, but may vary. )

STEP 5: POUR THE SLAB A. Esti mate and order concrete (see page 39).

Sta rt ing at one end, fi ll in the for m with concre te, using a shovel to d istribute i t. Usc the shovel blade or a 2 x 4 to stab into the conc re te to

el iminate a ir pockets a nd settle it around the wire mesh and a long the fo rms. Fill with co ncrete to the top of the form.

B. As the for m fi ll s, have two he lpe rs screed the concrete, us ing a stra ight 2 x 4 or 2 X 6 that spans the form: Drag the sc reed board a long the top of the fo rm, work ing it back and fo rt h in a saw ing mot ion. Throw shove lfu ls of concrete ahead of t he screed board to fi II low

spots. T he goa l of screeding is to make the surface of th e co ncrete perfectly nat an d level, if not smoot h .

C. Gently rap the outsides of the form wi th a hammer to settl e the concrete along the inside faces of the fo rm . This he lps smooth the sides of the sla b, but too much wil l cause aggregate to settle a nd concrete wil l "sca le" or "spa ll ."


Float the slab with a bull float, then set the J-bolts at the marked locations (inset).

STEP 6: FINISH THE CONCRETE & SET THE J-BOLTS A. Im mediately after sc reeding the concrete, make

one pass with a bull floa t to smooth the surface. Add small amoun ts of concrete to fi ll low spots created by the fl oating, the n smooth those a reas wit h the fl oat. Floating fo rces the aggregate down and d raws the water and sand to the su rface .

B. Set the ga lvanized J-bolts into the concrete I l-\" from the outs ide edges of the slab (bottom should turn in toward the slab). Work the bol ts into the concrete by wiggling them slightly to e liminate ai r pockets. The bo lts should be plum b and protrude 2Y2" from the slab su rface. After setting eac h bolt,

smooth the co ncrete arou nd the bolt, using a magnes ium or wood conc rete Roat.

C. vVa tch the concrete carefully as it cures. The bull -floati ng will cause water (called bleed water) to ri se, casting a sheen on the surface. \I\'ait fo r the bleed water to d isappea r and the su rface to hecome du ll. Pressure- test the concrete fo r firmness by stepping on it with one foot: if you r foot sin ks YI n or less, the co ncrete is ready to be fin ished. Note: Airentrained concrete may have very little bleed water, so it's best to rely all the pressure test.

D. Float the concrete \v ith a hand-held magnesi um or wood fl oat, working the fl oat back and fo rth un t il the surface is smooth. If you can 't reach the entire slab fro m the sides, lay pieces of 2"- thick rigid foam in sulation over the concrete and kneel on the insulation. \~!ork bac kwards to cover up

any impressions. E. Use a co ncrete edging tool to roun d over the slab

edge, run ni ng the edger bet\veen the slab and the fo rm. If you wa nt a very smooth fin ish, work the concrete \\lith a trowel.

F. Le t the concrete cure for 24 hours, then stri p the

forms. Wait an addit iona l 24 hours before bu ildi ng on the slab .

Estimating & Ordering Concrete ~

A slab for a shed requires a lot of concrete: an 8 x 10-ft slab designed like the one in this project calls for about 1.3 cubic yards of concrete; a 12 x 12-ft. slab, about 2.3

cubic yards. Considering the amount involved, you'll probably want to order ready-mix concrete delivered by truck to the site (most companies have a minimum order charge). Tell the mixing company that you're using the concrete for an exterior slab.

An alternative for smaller slabs is to rent a concrete

trailer from a rental center or landscaping company; they fill the trailer with one yard of mixed concrete and you tow it home with your own vehicle.

If you're haVing your concrete delivered, be sure to have a few helpers on-hand when the truck arnves; neither the concrete nor the driver will wait for you to get organized. Also, concrete trucks must be unloaded completely, so designate a dumping spot for any excess. Once the form IS filled, load a couple of wheelbarrows with concrete (in case

you need it) then have the driver dump the rest Be sure to spread out and hose down the excess concrete so you aren't left with an immovable boulder in your yard.

If you've never worked with concrete, finishing a large slab can be a challenging introduction; you might want some experienced help with the pour.

ESTIMATING CONCRETE Calculate the amount of concrete needed for a slab of this design uSing this formula:

Width x Length x Depth, in ft. (of main slab) Multiply by 1.5 (for footing edge and spillage)

Divide by 27 (to convert to cubic yards)

Example- for a 12 x 12-ft. slab: 12 x 12 x .29 (3W) = 41.76 41 .76x 1.5 = 62.64 62.64 .,. 27 = 2.32 cubic yards

Tips for Pouring Concrete ~

Timing is key to an attractive concrete finish. When concrete is poured, the heavy materials gradually sink, leaving a thin layer of water- known as bleed water- on the surface. To achieve an attractive finish, it's Important to let bleed water dry before proceeding with other steps. Follow these rules to avoid problems:

• Settle and screed the concrete and add control joints immediately after pouring and before bleed water appears. Otherwise, crazing, spaliing. and other flaws are likely.

• Let bleed water dry before floating or edging. Concrete should be hard enough that foot pressure leaves no more than a %"-deep impreSSion.

• Do not overfloat the concrete; it may cause bleed water to reappear. Stop floating If a sheen appears, and resume when It IS gone.

Note. Bleed water does not appear with air-entrained concrete, which is used in regions where temperatures often fall below freezing

• DO not overload your wheelbarrow Experiment with sand or dry mix to find a comfortable, controllable volume. This also helps you get a feel for how many wheelbarrow loads it will take to complete your project

• Once concrete IS poured and floated It must cure. It should not dry. If it is a hot day It IS a good idea to spray mist from a hose after it has "set" to keep it moist Make sure you have a flat stable surface between the concrete source and the forms.

• Start pouring concrete at the farthest point from the concrete source, and work your way back.


I Framing the Structure

Framing is one o f the most satisfying phases of a

building project. Us ing basic tools and materia ls,

you'll <:Issemb le the skel eton of the structure, pi ece by piece, and in the process learn the fundamentals of carpentry. T he style of framing shown here is standard 2 X 4 framing, a lso ca lled stic k fram ing. For an

a lternative style, sec the T imber-frame Garde n Shed

on page 180. T he tools you' ll use for most framin g are the

ci rc ul ar saw (and power miter saw, if you have o ne),

fram ing sq uare, level, chalk line, an d, of course, a fram ing hamn1er. Na ils used fo r most framing are

ca lled common na ils. These have a larger diamete r tha n box na ils, making them stronger, but also more

like ly to split thinne r stock. Box nai ls a re better

for siding, trim , and other non struc tura l mate rials.

I Floor Framing

Floor frames for sheds are simple versions of house

floor fra mes. They have outside, or rim , joists that are

se t on edge and n<Ji led to the ends of the co mlllon

jo ists. On top of floo r frallles , a layer of tongue-and

groove pl)'\,vood provides the fl oor su rface and adds

strength to the frame. To prevent rot , ah'vays use

pressure-treated lumber and galvan ized nai ls a nd

hardware for floor frames.

The th ree most commonly used na iling tec hniques

a re shown in the illustrations below. Some framing

con nections, suc h as where rafte rs meet \,vall plates,

req ui re meta l connectors fo r in c reased strength.

Nailing Techniques ~

Endnailing Facenailing Toenailing

Tools & Materials ~

C ircu lar saw

Square Pressu re- trea ted

2x lumber

Sd and l6d ga lvanized

com mon na ils 0/.; 11 tongue-a nd -groove

exterio r-grade plywood

I How to Build a Shed Floor Frame

STEP 1: CUT THE JOISTS & MARK THE LAYOUT A. Cut the two rim joists and the com mon jo ists to

length, making sure both ends a re sq uare. Note

that rim joists rlln the full length of the Aoor, while

common joists are 3" shorter tha n the floor width.

B. C hec k the ri m joists for crowning- arching

a long the narrow edges. Pick up one e nd of the

board and hold it flat. With one eye closed, sight

dO\vn the narrO\v edges. I f th e bO<Jrd a rches, even

slightl y, Illark the edge o n the top (convex) s ide

of the arch. T his is the crowned edge and sho uld

a lways be in sta lled facing up. If the board is crO\vned in both direc t ions, Illark the edge with

the Illost signi flcant c rmvning.

40 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHEDS

Tack together the rim joists, then mark the Joist layoul. Use a square to transfer the marks to the second 11m joist.

2 -I- I - -- ---.-

--- -I·~ ----- --- - - - ---I

Measure diagonally from corner to corner. If the measurements are equal. the frame is square.

C. Lay one rim joist Aa t o n top o f the other so the edges and ends are Aush and the crowned edges are on the same side. Tack the joists together \\lit h a few 8d nai ls. Turn the jo ists o n edge and mark the com mon joist layout on th e top edges: Mark 1 W' and 15Yi" from the e nd of one joist. T he n,

meas uring from the J 5V4 11 mark, make a mark every 16"- at 32", 48" , 64" and so on, to the end

of the board (if the p lan call s for 24" spac ing, make a mark at I Y2" unci 23 W', then every 24" from there). Don't worry if the las t space be fore the opposi te e nd joist isn't as \vide as the others. Make a mark I W' in from the remain ing end .

After each mark, draw a sma ll X designating whi c h side of the line the joist goes- thi s is a handy framers' trick to p revent confusion . This

layou t e nsures that the edges o f a 4-ft. or 8-ft. board or sheet wi ll fa ll , or brea k, o n the center of a joist.

D. Using a square, draw lines through eac h of the layou t marks , carrying the m over to the other rim jo ist. Draw Xs o n the other joist, as \,ve ll. Separate

the joists a nd remove the nails.

STEP 2: ASSEMBLE & SQUARE THE FRAME A. C heck the (\,vo end joists for crown ing, then nail

them between the rim joists so the ir outside faces

are flu sh "vith the rim jo ist e nds and the top edges are flu sh. Drive two 16d ga lva nized com mon nai ls

th rough the rim joists and in to the ends of the end jo ists, posi tioning the nai ls about ~" from the top and bottom edges.

install the plywood perpendicular to the jOists. Start each row with a full sheet and stagger the end-JOints between rows.

B. Install the remain ing joists, making sure the crowned edges are fac ing up. Joists should be sq uare to edge of rim joists.

C. C heck the frame for squareness by measu ring diagona lly from corner to corner: \-vhe n the meas ure ments are eq ua l, the frame is sq uare . To

adjust the fram e, app ly inward pressure to the co rners with the longer meas ure ment.

D. If you're bu ild ing the floor over s kids, sec ure eac h

joist to the outs ide skids with a meta l anchor and toenail the joists to the internal skid(s) with 16d ga lvan ized nails.

STEP 3 : INSTALL THE PLYWOOD FLOOR A. Lay a fu ll sheet of %" tongue-and-groove exte rior

grade plj'\vood over the frame so the groove side is flush \,~ th a ri m joist and one end is flush with an

end joist. Fasten the plywood to the joists with 8d gdlvanized na ils driven every 6" along the edges and every 8" in the field ofthe sheet. Do not na il along the tongue edge until the next row of plywood is in place.

B. C ut the second piece to fit next to the first, a llowing for a W' gap between the sheets. Insta ll the second

sheet with its outside edges flu sh \vith the frame. C. Start the next row wi th a full sheet (ripped to

width, if necessary). In sta ll the sheet sta rting from the corne r opposite the first sheet , so the joints between rows are offset. Make su re the tongucand-groove joint is tight; if necessary, usc a wood

block a nd a sledgeham mer to close the joint. Try to align factory edges to meet adjacent sheets.

D. C ut and install the remaining piece of p lywood .


I Wall Framing

Standard fra med walls have vertica l 2 X 4 studs nailed

between horizontal top and bottom plates. The top

plates arc doub led to provide additional support for the roof frame and to strengthen the wa ll connections.

Door and \\l in dov .. ! frames arc made up of king stud s;

a header, whic h sup ports cripple studs above the opening; and jack stuels, which suppo rt the header. A v\rindO\v frame also has a rough sill and cripple studs belov,l the open ing. The opening defined by the fra me

is ca lled the rough opening. \I\'a ll frames ga in rigid ity

from ply\vood sheathing, siding, or diagonal I X lumber

braces . If you plan to store automob iles in your shed,

usc #3 or #4 ba rs 12" on-center (in lieu of WWi\II ). Building wa ll s invo lves three major phases: laying

out and framing th e walls; rais ing the wa ll s; and ty ing

the \,valls together and Cldding the double top plates.

Note: If your building llas a concrete slab floor, use pressure-treated tum.ber for the bottom plates and anchor the plates to the J-bolts set in the slab (see page 38).

Tools & Materials ~

! Top plate

V

criPP:' stud

IV Studs

Bottom

p\

~ ! /' Double

!. top Header plate

~ i'-"'-King

stud

/ Rough

sill

"'. Cnpple stud

Broom Square

4-ft. level Handsaw

2x lumber WI plywood

Construct ion adhes ive C irc ular smv or pm,vcr

miter saw

Sd, IOd, and j 6d common nails

I How to Frame Walls

STEP 1: MARK THE BOTTOM-PLATE LAYOUT LINES A. Sweep off the fl oor and make sure it's dry. C ut

a short (about 4 to 6") piece of plate material to lise as a spacer. Posi tion the spacer at o ne corner

of the Aoor, with its outs ide edge Rush w ith the

outside of the fl oor frame. Mark a penc il line along the inside edge of the spacer.

B. Use the spacer to mark the \>\,<1 11 ends at each corner of the floor (eight marks total). Snap chalk lines through the marks . These lines represent the

inside edges of the bottom plates .

STEP 2: LAY OUT THE PLATES A. Measure a long t he plate layout lines to lind the

lengths of the plates. Note: Follow your project


use a block cut from plate material to layout the bottom plates. Mark at the ends of each wall, then snap a chalk line.

Mark the stud layout onto the wall plates, designating the stud locations with xs. Through walls have an extra corner stud 2%' frorn each end.

construct the headers from 2x lumber and a y," plywood spacer.

plans to detennine which walls run to the edges of the building (called through walls ) and which butt into the other walls (called butt walls ).

B. Select st raight lumber for the plates. C ut a top

and bottom plate fo r the first wa ll , making su re

their dimensions are the sa me. Use a circular saw or a power miter saw, but make SlIre both ends arc square. Lay the bottom plate flat on the floor

an d set the top plate on top of it. IVlake sure their

edges an d ends arc flu sh, then tack the p lates

together wi th a few Sd nails. C. Tu rn the p lates on edge an d mark the stud layout

onto the front edges. I f the \,vall is a through

\va ll , make a mark a t I Y2 1! and 2%" to mark the

e nd stud and extra corne r stud . T hen , mark at 15 Y/ (for 16" o n-center spac ing) or 23 W' (for

2411 on-center spaci ng)- measuring from this

mark, make a mark every J 6" (or 24") to the e nd of the plates. j\/lake mClrks I Y2 1l and 2-14 " in from the opposite end. Follovving you r plan, draw an

X next to eac h mark, des igna ting to whi ch s ide

of the line the stud goes. Mark the king and jack

stud s with a K and] respec tively, and mark the

cripple studs w ith a C. If the wal l is a butt wa ll ,

mark the p late at] Y2 u, then move the tape so

the 3 Y2 u tape mark is al igned ",·,rith the e nd of the

p late. Keeping the tape at that position . mark at

J 5Y ... " (fo r ]6" sp<Jc ing) or 23 Y ... " (fo r 24" sp<Jc ing)

the n mark every 16" (or 24") from there. The 3Y2" th at a re "buried" accou nt for the width of the

through wa ll.

D. Using <J sq uare , d mw lines through each of the

layout marks. carrying them over to the other

plate. Draw Xs o n the other plate, as wel l.

STEP 3 : CUT THE STUDS & BUILD THE HEADERS A. Cut the studs to length, fo llowing the framing

plan; make sure both ends are sguare. (Before

cutt ing. give eac h stud a quick in spection to c heck

fo r excess ive bm·ving or c rowning; reserve any bad

studs fo r scra p or blocking.)

B. Select stra ight lumber for the door~frame studs.

Cut the jack stud s to equal the he ight of the

rough open ing minus 1 Y2" (this accounts for the

thickness of the bottom plate); cut the jack studs

for the window frame to egual the height of the top of the rough opening minus I WI. Cut the king

stud s the sa me length as the common stud s.

C. To build the headers , c ut two p ieces of 2x lum ber

(using the size prescri bed by the pla ns) to equa l

the width of the rough opening plus 3" . C hec k the

boards for crowning, and mark the top edges. Cut a p iece of WI plywood to the same dimensions as

the lum ber pieces.

D. App ly two wavy beads of construc tion adhesive to

each side of the ply\vood and sa ndwich the lumber

pieces around the p lyv.rood, keep ing a ll edges

flu sh . Na il the header together with pairs of 16d

common nails spaced about 12" apart. Drive the

nails at a slight angle so they won't protrude from the other s ide. Na il from both sides of the header.

(continued)


Frame the walls with 16d nails endnailed through the plates into the studs. Toenail cripples to headers with 8d nails.

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE WALL A. Separate the marked p lates and remove the nai ls.

Position the plates on edge, about 8 ft. apart, \v ith the marked edges fac ing up.

B. Set the studs on edge between the plates, fo llowing the layout marks. C rown a ll common and king

studs to the same side. Before setting the door~ or window-frame studs, face na il the jack studs to the

inside faces of the king studs with 1 ad common

nails staggered and spaced every 1211; make sure

the bottom ends and s ide edges are flu sh .

C. Na il all of the studs to the bottom plate, then

to the top plate. Pos ition each stud on its layollt mark so its front edge is flu sh \.vith the p late edge

(s tud ends square to length of plates), and nail

through the plate a nd into the stud end with two

16d common nails (usc ga lvan ized nails on the

bottom p late if you r floor is concrete). Drive the nails about ~ 'I in from the p late edges.

D . Set the header in place above the jack studs and

n<:li l through the Izjng studs <:I nd in to the header

ends \v ith 16d na il s- use fo ur n<:l iis on eac h end

fo r a 2 X 6 header, and six for a 2 X S header. For

a windmv frame, measure up from the bottom of

the bottom plate a nd mark the top of the si ll on

the inside faces o f the jack studs- th is defines

the bottom o f the rough open ing. Cut two si ll


Install a diagonal brace to keep the wa ll square. Make sure the brace ends won't interfere with the construction.

pieces to Ilt behveen the jack studs and na il them

together with IOd na ils . Toena il the si ll to the jack

stud s with 16d nai ls .

E. Cu t the cripple studs to fit between the header

and the top p late (a nd the si ll and bottom plate,

for windO\v frames). Toenail the cripple studs to

the plates and headers (a nd sil l) with two Sd nai ls

on o ne side and o ne more th rough the cente r on

the other side.

STEP 5: SQUARE THE WALL FRAME A. C heck the \va ll frame for squareness by measu ring

diagona lly from corner to corner: \t\1hcn the

meas ure ments are eq ual , th e frame is square. To

adjust the frame, app ly inward pressure to the

corne rs with the longer measuremen t.

B. When the frame is perfectly square, insta ll a

temporal), I X 4 or 2 X 4 brace diagona lly across the

studs a nd p lates. Nai l the brace to the fra me with

8d nails. Use t\vo nails on the p lates and on every

othe r stud. To stabi lize the st ructure, leave the \-1/<:111

braces in place un til the \,\'a ll s are sheathed or sided .

C. At each en d of the \'\'<:IiI, attach a board to br<:lce

the wa ll upright afte r it is raised ; nai l it to the end

stud w ith one 16d nail. Note: rnstall only one end brace for the second and third walls; no end brace is needed for the finulwall.

STEP 6: RAISE THE WALL A. With a he lper, lift the top end of the wa ll and set

the bottom plate on the layout lines you snapped

in Step A. Swi ng out the free ends of th e end

braces and tack them to the floor frame to keep

the "vall upright. I f you have a slab fl oor, nail the braces to stakes in the ground.

B. Fine· tune the \vall pos iti on so the bottom

p late is flu sh w ith the chalk li ne, the n nail

the pl a te to the floor w it h 16d nai ls. Drive

a nail eve ry 16" a nd stagge r them so that

h ulf go into the rim joist and half go into th e

com mon joi sts. Do not nail the plate in s ide the

door ope ning. C. Pull the na ils a t the bottom ends of the end

braces, and adjust the wall until it is perfectly

plumb, using a 4-ft. level; se t the level agains t a

few diffe rent studs to get an accurate reading. lieattaeh the end braces with 16d nails.

Nail the bottom plate to the floor frame, then plumb the wall and secure it with end braces.

STEP 7: COMPLETE THE WALL FRAMES & INSTALL THE DOUBLE TOP PLATES A. Build a nd ra ise the remaining walls, following

the same procedure used for the first wa ll. After

eac h wa ll is plumbed and braced in position, nail

together the end studs of th e Cl djacent \valls with 16d na ils, driven evc'Y 121!. iVlake SUfe the \,va ll ends are flu sh.

8. Cut the double top plates from 2 X 4 lum ber.

The double top p lates must overlap the top pl ate

joi nts, so that on through walls, the double pl ate

is 3 Y2 '1 shorter on each e nd than the top plate; o n

butt \'\.'a ll s, the double plate is 3 Y2" longer on eac h

end. Nai l the double top plates to the to p plates

"vit h I Od na il s. Drive two nai ls at the ends of the

plates that overlap inte rsecting wa ll s, an d one nai l

every 16" in between.

C. Use a ha ndsaw or reciprocating saw to cut out the

bottom plate in the door opening.

Nail together the corner studs of intersecting walls (inset). Add the double top plates, overlapping the wall corners.


I Roof Framing

A roof fmme is an important structure not only beca use it supports the roofing and hel ps keep the bu ild ing dry,

bu t because its style and shape have a great impact on

the character of the bui lding, the fee l of the interior

space, Cl nd the amou nt of storage spuce Clva ilable.

T here are fOllr common roof types shown in th is book. A gable roof is the classic, triangul<J r deSign, with two sloped sides meeting at the pea k, and fl at

ends (ca lled gable ends). Gam brel roofs are like gable

roofs with an extra jo int on each side, resul ting in tV"D

d iffe rent slopes . A hip roof is structurally sim ila r to a

gab le, but has no gab le enels. S hed roofs are the simplest

style, with on ly one sloped plane. They ca n be buil t with

frames or, fo r small st ructures, a sheet of plyv/ood. Al l of these roof styles have a deS ignated slope,

whic h is the degree of a ngle of each side. The slope is expressed in a ra ti o that sta tes the number of in ches of vertica l ri sc per 12" of horizontal run. For example , a

roof that rises 6" for every 12" of ru n is sa id to have a

slope of 6-in- 12 . Roof slope is indica ted in drawings by

a triangular symbol knO\vn as the roof-slope ind icator. You'll use the roof slope to layout rafte rs and fascia.

Ridge board-~"""-I!

Ra fters

In sta ndard roof fra ming, rafters a re the pri nc ipal

st ructura l members, risi ng fro m the wa lls to the ri dge

board at the peak of t he roof. Rafters in ou tbu ild ings

typ ica lly are made fro m 2 X 4s or 2 X 6s, a re spaced

16" or 24" on cente r, a nd are insta ll ed perpendicu lm

to the length of the bu ilding. To keep the roof pla nes

from spreading apart, rafter t ies, or coll ar ti es, a re

nailed bet\,veen opposing rafters to fo rm a st ruc tura l

triangle. \Nith shed -style roofs, t he rafters spa n fro m

wa ll -to-\,va ll and no ridge board or ties are needed .

The key to successfu l roof fram ing is making

accurate cuts on the rafte rs. Take your ti me to cut the

nrst two rafters, making any necessary adjustments,

t hen lise one as a pattern for marking the rest.

As an a lte rnat ive to rafter fram ing, you ca n take

you r plans to a truss ma nufact u rer and have custom

trusses bui lt for your project. Hm,vever, t his will cost

you more and probab ly will limi t you r storage space:

the inte rna l suppo rts in truss frames leave little room

fo r storage.

Tools & Materials ~

C ircu lar saw

Fram ing sq ua re

4-ft. level

2x lum be r

Sd , 10d, and 16d

common nails

Marking Angles with a Speed Square ~

A speed square IS a handy tool for marking angled cutsusing the degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the square flange against the board edge and align the pivot point with the top of the cut. Pivot the square until the

board edge IS aligned wi th the desired degree marking or the rise of the roof slope, indicated in the row of common

numbers. Mark along the right-angle edge of the square.


I How to Build a Roof Frame

Note: The following instnlctions are based on the sample rafter template sllOlIm 1tere, which is designed for a 6-in- J 2 roof slope.

STEP 1: MARK THE PLUMB CUTS A. Select a stra ight board to use for the pattern

rafte r. Mark the top plu m b cut near one end of

the board: Position a framing square with the 6"

mark of the tongue (short part) and the 12" mark of the b lade (wide pa rt) on the top edge of the

board. Draw a pencil line a long the ou ts ide edge

of the to ngue. B. Start ing from the top of the plumb-cut ma rk,

measu re <:lIa ng the top edge of the board and mark the overa ll length of the rafter, then use the sq uare

to t ransfer t his mark to the bottom edge of the hoard. Pos it ion the square so the tongue points dOvvn, and al ign the 6" mark of the tongue and the

12" mark of the b lade with th e bottom board edge,

w hi le a ligni ng the tongue with the overall length

mark. Drmva line a long t he tongue. [f the bottom

end cut of the rafter is square (perpendicular to

the edges) rather than para llel to the top end,

mark a square cut at the overa ll length mark.

STEP 2 : MARK THE BIRO'S MOUTH CUTS A. Measure from the bottom of the lower p lumb

cut and mark the plumb cut of the bird's mouth .

Positio n the square as you did for the lower plumb

cut and d rmv a line across the board face at the

new mark.

B. iVleasu re a long the bird's mouth plu mb cu t and

mark the bird's mouth leve l cut. Use the square to

draw the leve l cut- it must be perpendicular to

the bird·s mou th p lumb cu t.

Rafter Template

12

~ Roof-slope indicator

,~_- Overa ll le ngth

Bird's mouth level cut - ____ :::::" ....... ----,

Bird's mouth plumb cut-----1L

Bottom plumb cut

Position the framing square at the 6" and 12" marks to draw the top and bottom plumb-cut lines.

Mark the bird's mouth level cut by squaring off of the blrd's mouth plumb cut.

Cut the bird 's mouth by overcutting the lines just until the blade cuts entirely through the board.


Test-fit the pattern rafters, uSing a spacer made of 2x lumber to represent the ridge board.

STEP 3: MAKE THE CUTS A. Cut the rafter ends at the plumb-cut lines, using a

ci rcular smv Of pO\ver miter Sa\'V.

B. Set the base of <1 circular smv to cut at the maximulll depth . iVlake the bird 's mouth cuts, overcutting sl ightly to complete the Clit through the

thickness of the board. As an a lte rna tive to

ovcrcutting (for aesthetic reasons), you can stop

the c ircular smv a t the line intersections, then

finish the cuts with a handsa\v. It is no t necessary

to overcut 2 x 4 rafters with 8 '1 Of morc overhang.

C. Select another straight board to lise as <J secon d pattern rafter. Use the origina l patte rn rafter to trace the cutting lines onto the dupli cate, then ma ke the cuts .

STEP 4: TEST-FIT THE RAFTERS A. C ut a 12"- long spacer block from 2 x 6 or

2 x 8 materia l.

B. With a he lper Of t\'vo, set th e two rafte rs in pbce

o n top o f the ","lis, ho lding the spacer block

he tween the top rafter ends. rVlake sure the rafters

a re in line \.vith eac h other (perpendi cular to the

wa ll s) and a rc plumb.

Mark the rafter layout onto the wall plates and the ridge board, starting from the same end of the building for each.

C. Check the cuts for fit : The top-end plumb cuts should

mee t flush " oth the spacer block, and the bird's

mouths should sit flu sh against the wa ll plates. [\!Jake

Sille the top ends are at the same e levation. Recut any angles that don 't fit and test-fit the rafters again.

D. Write "PAT' o n the pattern rafter, the n use it to

trace the c utting lines onto the remaining rafters.

Before marking, chec k each rLlfte r for crovmi ng

and mark the c rowned edge; ah.vays insta ll the

crowned edge up. If your building has overhangs

at the gable ends, mark the end cu ts for the

overha ng mfte rs but not the bird's mouth c uts

overha ng rLlfters don't have the m . Also, if yo u have

the fascia mate ria l on hand , use the patte rn rafter

to mark the angle for the top e nds of the fasc ia

boards (sec page 48).

E. Cu t the remaining rafters.

STEP 5: LAY OUT THE WALL PLATES & RIDGE BOARD No te: Start the rafter layoHts from the ends of tl18 lUalls

where you started the wall stud layouts. This ensures the rafters will fall above the studs. Install rafters aligned

with the end studs but not the ev'Xtm corner studs.

(continued)


Endnail the first rafter to the ridge, then toenail the second. Re inforce the bottom connection with a metal anchor (Inset).

A. Make a mark on the top wa ll p late I y," in from

the e nd . Then, ma rk at J5 Y4" (for J6" on-center

spaci ng) or 23 Y.! " (for 24" on-center spac ing)measuring fro m this mark, make a mark every 16" (or 24") to the end of the wa ll. Make a mark 1\1,"

in from the remaining e nd. Fol lowing you r plan ,

drmv a n X next to each mark, designating to which

side of the linc the rafter goes. 8. Mark the wa ll on the other side of the building,

sta rti ng from the same en d .

C . Cut the ridge board to length , using the p lan

dimensions. C heck the board for crovvning, then

lay it on top of the wa ll s next to one of the marked

plates, making sure it overhangs the end wa lls eq ually at both e nds. Use a sq uare to transfer the rafte r IaYOllt onto both faces of the ridge board.

STEP 6: INSTALL THE RAFTERS A. You'll need a couple of he lpers and a long, strCligh t

2 X 4 to get the rafte rs sta rted. Lay the fi rst two rafters o n top of the wa ll , then na il the 2 X 4

to the far end of the ridge board to se rve as a

temporary su pport. Set up the rafters at the e nd

of the wa lls and ho ld the free e nd of the ridge

board in place between them. Have a he lper tack

50 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORAIW SHEDS

Angle-cut the ends of the coliar ties to match the roof slope and facenai l the ties to the rafters.

the rafters to the wa ll plates. Ho ld a level on the

ridge board and make su re it's leve l, then have a

he lper tack the support to the fa r wal l to keep the

ridge level.

B. Slide one rafter a fevv inches to the side a nd

endnail the other rafte r through the ridge board

with three 16d com mon nai ls (use two na il s for

2 X 4 rafters). S lide the other rafte r onto its layou t

mark and toenail it to the ridge with fo u r 16d nails

(three for 2 X 4s). Toenai l the lower end of eac h

rafter to the wa ll plate with two 16d nai ls, then

re in force the joi nt with a meta l "lIlchor, Ll sing the

na ils spec ified by the manufacturer.

C. Make sure the rafters a re plu mb and the ridge is

level. I nstall the re maining rafters, chec king for

plumb and leve l periodica lly as you work.

STEP 7: INSTAll THE COLLAR TIES A. Cut the co llar ties (o r rafter ties) to span between

opposing rafters at the prescribed e levation ,

angle-c utting the ends to match the roof slope.

B. Pos it ion the co lla r tie e nds against the rafte r faces so

the ends are about 1J2" from the rafte rs edges. Make

sure the ties are level, then facenai l them to the rafters with three] ad common na il s at each e nd.

STEP 8: FRAME THE GABLE WALL Note: Cable walls consist of top plates that attach to

the undersides of the elld rafters, and short studs set on

top of the wall plates. They appear only on gable and get/nbrel roofs.

A. C ut the top plates to extend from the side of the ridge board to the wall plates. Angle~cllt the ends so they meet flush with the ridge and wall plate. The top-end angle matches the rafter plumb ClIt; the bottom angle matches the level cut of the bird's mouth.

B. Fasten the plates to the rafters so the front plate edges are flush \·vith the outside faces of the rafte rs; lise 16d nails .

C. Mark the gabl e stud layout onto the wa ll plate, then usc a level to transfe r the layout to the gable plates . Cut the gab le studs to fit, angle-cutt ing

the ends to match the roof s lope. I nstall the gable studs with Sd toenai ls. Also in sta ll a square-cut

stud directly under the ridge board.

STEP 9: BUILD THE GABLE OVERHANG (GABLE & GAMBREL ROOFS) Note: Cable overhangs are built with additioNal rafters

installed at the gable ends. They are SHpported by tllC ridge board and blocks-called loolwuts- attached to

the cud rafters.

A. Mark the layouts for the lookouts onto the e nd rafters, following th e project plan. Cut the lookouts and toenai l them to the rafters with Sd nails (o r cndnail them w ith

16d nails) so that the top edges of the bloc ks are flush with, and parallel to , the tops of the rafters.

B. Install the overhclIlg rafters over the ends of the lookouts with 16d endnails.

Mark the gable stud layout onto the main-wall top plate and gable-wall top plate, then install the gable studs.

Nail the outer gable overhang rafters to the lookouts. making sure the top edges of the rafters are flush.


I Roofing

The roofing phase typica lly follows the framing,

for most bui ldi ng projects. As it's presented here,

roollng includes installi ng the fasc ia board, the roof sheath ing, a nd of course, the sh ingles Of ot her material. You' ll also see how to insta ll roof vents .

Fasc ia board is I X trim mater ia l, typ ica lly made

of cedar, that covers the ends of the rafters . On gable

and ga mbrel roofs , fascia also covers the e nd (or gable overha ng) rafte rs. Sheathing is t he s tructura l deck o f

the roof. Depending on the type of roonng used, the

sheathing may be plywood, tonguc-&-groove declU ng boards , Of spaced Ix Of 2x lumber.

As for the roofing, dec id ing o n a materia l is

a matte r of pe rsona l taste and pract icality. Th ree

common types llsed for ou tbuild ings a re covered here: asp halt sh ingles, ceda r shingles, and metal roollng.


Asphalt sh ingles are the sta ndard roofing mate rial

for outbui ld ings, just as they are for houses. For t he

money, aspha lt sh ingles are the most durable and

low-ma intena nce mater ial ava ilable , a nd they come in

a wide range of colors and styles.

Cedar shingles are a big ste p up in price from

aspha lt, but their visua l appea l is unde niable . T he

type shown here is the factory-sawn s hingle with fl a t,

tapered sides. Cedar sh ingles are less expensive and

easier to insta ll than hand-split cedar shakes.

iVletcd roollng has been used for cen turies on

everything from chicken coops to cathedra ls, and

in recent years it has become increas ingly popular

in res ident ial construc tion. iVlodern forms of meta l

roollng are extreme ly durable and easy to in sta ll , and

they still make that nice sound ""hen it ra in s.

I Fascia & Sheathing

Fascia board a nd roof sheathi ng are al ways in stalled

before the roofing, but w hich one you in sta ll llrst is

up to you . Some bui ld ings also have a Ix or 2x board in stalled behind the fasc ia, ca ll ed subfas cia. Made

of rough lumber, the subfasc ia helps co rnpensCite for in consistency in rafte r length , ensuring th e fasc ia

will be straight. It a lso provides a continuolls nailing

surface for the fas cia. To install subfascia, foll ow the sa me procedure used for in stalling fasc ia, but don 't worry about mitering the e nds- just overlap the boards at the corners.

T he type of sheathing you use depends on the roof

covering. Use CDX pl)"ood (it's exterior-grade) for

asphalt and cedar shi ngles. De pending on the bu ilding deSign, the fascia may be installed Aush with the top of

the sheathing, or the ply\vood may overlap the fascia.

If YO LI install the fascia first , cut spacers from the

sheathing stoc k and usc them when measu ri ng and

install ing the fasc ia . Both sh ingle types must be insta lled

over a layer of 1511 building pape r (a lso called ta r paper

or roofing felt ), which goes on afte r the sheathing and

fascia. The paper protects the sheathing [Tom moisture

and prevents the sh ingles fro m bonding to it.

I How to Install Fascia Board

STEP 1: CUT & FIT THE GABLE-END FASCIA A. Mark a plumb cu t on the top end of the nrst

fascia boa rd : If you didn 't mark the fascia boards

with the pattern rafter (page 4S), use a framing

square to mark the plumb cut , follO\ving the

sa me method used for marlUng rafters (page

49). Make the cut with a c irc ular savv or pO\ver

mite r smv.

B. Ho ld the cut e nd of the fascia against the e nd

rafte r. If the fascia will be flu s h with the top of

the sheathing, usc spacers set on the rafter and

position the top edge of the fascia flu sh wi th

the spacers.

C. Have a he lpe r mark the lower end for length by

tracing a long the rafter end onto the bac k side of

the fascia. Make the cut wi th a 45° beve l (miter).

If you're us ing a c ircu lar saw, tilt the bl ade to 45°

and follow the traced line; if you have a com pound

mite r saw, rotate the blade to matc h the cu tting

line and tilt the blade to 45 °.

As a n alte rn ative to pl ywood s hea thing,

you ca n use decking board s as a s hi ngle

unde rlayme nt. Typi ca lly so ld in % dimension

( l YI6" thi ck), board s heathing creates an

attract ive "ce iling" for the in s ide of a buildin g, a nd th e nails wor)"t s hov.I thro ugh as th ey do \,vith

plywood shea thing.

For meta l roofing, in sta ll purlin s---evenly

spaced , paralle l rows of I X or 2x boards na iled

perpendicular to the rafters. Install the fasc ia over

the ends of the purlins, flu sh with the tops .

Tools & Materials ~

Framing square

Circu lar saw

Stapler

Fascia & trim material

6d and Sd galvanized

finish nails

CDX pl ywood

roof sheathing

Sd box nails

15# building paper

Mark the bottom end of the gable fascia by tracing along the end of the rafter (or the subfascia). If the fascia will be installed flush with the sheathing, use a spacer for positioning.

(continued)


Fasten the fascia to the rafters (or subfascia) with 3d finish nalls, then locknail the corner joints with 6d nails. use scarf jOints to Join boards in long runs (Inset).

D. Temporarily tack the fascia in place against the rafter wi th a couple of Sci ga lva nized finish nails.

liepeat this process to mark, cut, and tack up th e opposing fasc ia piece, then do the sa me at the other gable end.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE FASCIA ALONG THE EAVES A. Cut a 45 ° bevel on the end of anothe r fascia

p iece a nd fit it aga inst one of the pieces on the gab le en d. If the board is long enough to span the buildin g, mark the opposite end to length . If yo u'll need two pieces to comp lete th e eave, mark the boa rd about Ij/ from the far edge of a rafte r; cut that e nd with a 45 ° beve l, angled

so the longer side of the board \vill be against the rafte r. Cut the remaining piece with a 45 °

54 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORAIW SHEDS

bevel angled in the o pposite direction . This

is known as a sca rf joint. Nail these with Sd galvani zed Rnish nails and drill pilot hol es to preve n t splitt ing.

B. j\/lake sure the corner joints fit wel l, then tac k the fasc ia to the rafters.

C. Cut and tack up the fa sc ia along the othe r eave.

Make sure all of the joints fit well , then fasten the fascia permanentl y with 8d galvanized finish nails: drive three nails into each rafter end a nd a pa ir of nails every 161\ a long the ga ble ends.

D. Locknail eac h corner joint \,vith three 6d ga lvan ized fin ish nai ls . If necessary, drill pilot holes to prevent splitting.

E. Install any addi tion al trim, suc h as I X 2,

cal led for by the plan. Miter the e nds for the best appearance.

I How to Install Plywood Sheathing & Building Paper

STEP 1: INSTALL THE SHEATHING A. Lay a fu ll sheet of CDX plywood on top of the

rafters at one of the ]mver corners of t he roof. Position t he edges of the sheet VB " from the fascia

(or the ou tside edges of the rafters) and make sure

the inside end of the sheet falls over the center of a rafter; trim the sheet, iF necessary.

B. Fasten the s heet to t he rafters with Sd box na ils

spaced every 6" a lo ng the edges and every 12" in

the field of the sheet.

C. Cut and instal l the next s heet to complete t he first

row, leaving a WI gap betv/ee n the sheet e nds. D. Start the second fO\'V with a half-le ngth sheet so

the vertical joints wil l be staggered between rows. Measure from the top of the first fO\V to the cente r of

the ridge board, and rip the sheet to that dimension.

E. Install the fi rst sheet of the seeond row, then eut

and install the remaining sheet to comp le te the row.

E Sheath the opposite s ide of the roof fo llowing the

sa me process.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE BUILDING PAPER Note: If J'OU (fre installing asphaLt shingLes, add a drip edge "long the eaves before Laying the building paper.

A. Roll ou t J 5# bui lding paper ac ross the roof along the eave edge . If yo u've in sta lled a drip edge, hold the paper fiu sh with the drip edge; if there's no

drip edge, overha ng the fasc ia on the eave by %11 . Overhang the gable ends by I to 2" . (On hip roofs ,

overha ng the hip ridges by 6".)

B. Secure the paper wit h staples driven about

every 12". C. Apply t he remaini ng rows, eac h ove rl ap pi ng

the precedi ng row by at least 2". Overhang th e ridge by 6" . Overlap any vert ical jo ints by a t

Icast4 !1 .

D. Install the pape r on the other roof side(s), aga in

overlapp ing the ridge by 6",

E. Trim th e paper Rush \,vith the fascia on the gable e nds.

Install the plywood sheathing so the vertical joints are staggered between rows.

Apply building paper from the bottom up, so the lower paper is overlapped by the paper above it.


I Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt shingles come in a variety of styles. but most arc based on the standard three-tab system, in

whi ch eac h shingle strip has notc hes creating three equa lly sized tabs on the lower half of the strip.

\"'hen insta lled , the tubs cover the solid portion of the shingle belm".' it , giving the appearance of individual shingles.

For du rability, lise fiberglass-based shi ngles rat her tha n organ ic- based . If you choose a specia lty style, suc h as a deco rative shingle or a type that is made to appear natural (s imilar to wood or

slate), check with t he manufacturer for specific

insta llation instructions.

Prepare the roof fo r sh ingles by insta ll ing building paper and a metal d rip edge along t he roof peri mete r. The d rip edge covers the edges of the fasc ia and

supports the shingle edges.

Tools & Materials ~

Nletal sn ips

C halk l ine

U ti li ty knife

Straightedge

Nleta l drip edge

Asphalt shingles

2d roofi ng nails Roofi ng ce me nt

I How to Install Asphalt Shingles

STEP 1: INSTAll THE DRIP EDGE Note: Install the drip edge along the eaves before applying building paper; install the drip edge along the gable ends on top of the paper.

A. Cut a 45° mi ter on the end of a drip-edge piece, lIsing metal sn ips. Hold the end flus h with the corner of the fascia, and faste n the fla nge of the drip edge to the sheathing \,vith roofing nai ls d riven eve!)' 1211. To prevent corros ion, use galvanized na ils with ga lvanized drip edge and a luminum nai ls with alum inum edge . Overlap vertica l joi nts by 211.

Install the drip edge along the eaves over the sheathing. Add the building paper, then Install edging along the gable ends.


B. App ly the bui ld ing paper over the entire roof (see

page 55). Insta ll the dri p edge along the gab le ends, over the paper, cutt ing 45 ° miters to meet the e nds of the eave drip edge. Overlap horizonta l joints by 2 11 , overlapping the higher piece on top of the lowe r. At the roof pea k, trim the front fla nges so the oppos ing edge pieces meet at a vertical joint.

STEP 2 : INSTAll THE STARTER COURSE OF SHINGLES A. Snap a cha lk line I I WI li p from the front edge of

the d ri p edge (this will resu lt in a Y2 11 overlap for standard 1211 shingles).

Trim 6" from the end tab to begin the starter row. Position the starter course shingles upside down so the tabs point up.

Stagger each course of shingles by % tab, repeating the pattern after overhanging the edge by 1 % tabs.

8. Trim off one- half (6" ) of the end tab of a shingle,

using a uti li ty kn ife and stra ightedge.

C. Pos ition t he shingle ups ide-down , so the tabs are

on the chalk line and the half-tab overha ngs the gab le drip edge by %", FCisten the shingle with Fou f 2d roofi ng na ils, a bout 3V2" up from the

bottom edge: drive one below each tab, one 2" in from the ga ble edge, and one 1 II from the ins ide

edge. Drive the nails stra ight and set the heads just Aush to avoid tearing the s hingle.

D. Use fu ll shi ngles for t he rema inder o f t he cou rse,

pbc ing them ups ide dO\.vn and butting thei r edges together. Trim the las t shingle so it overha ngs the gab le edge by %,".

STEP 3: INSTALL THE REMAINING COURSES A. Instal l the first course of s hi ngles, start ing with a

full shi ngle. Pos it ion the tubs dovm a nd align the

shingle edges v" ith those in the starter course. D rive

fo ur na ils into each shingle: one %" above each tab,

and one I II in fro m each e nd , at the same leve l.

T rim the las t shingle to match the starter course.

B. Snap a c ha lk li ne o n the bui ld ing paper, 17" up

from the bottom edge of the nrst course; this will

resu lt in a 5" exposure for eac h course. C heck

your shingle d imensions and adjust measurements

as necessary.

C. Begi n t he seco nd cou rse with a fu ll shingle, bu t

overha ng the end of t he n rst cou rse by Y2 of a

tab. Begin the th ird cou rse by overhanging a full

tab, t hen I y, tabs for the fou rth course . Start

the nfth cou rse with a fu ll s hi ngle a ligned with

the n rst cou rse, to repeat the staggered pattern.

S nap a c ha lk li ne for each cou rse, maintai n ing

Divide the shingles into thirds, then trim the corners to create the sh ingle caps (Inset). Install the caps at the ridge.

a 5" exposu re. Afte r every few courses, measure

from the ridge to t he shingle edges to make sure

t he shi ngles are ru n ning paralle l to the ridge. If

necessary, m<J ke slight adjustments wi th eac h

cou rse un t il the shi ngles a re p<Jr<:l llel to t he ridge.

D . T ri m the top cou rse of sh ingles at t he ridge. If

you a re worki ng o n a hi p roof (gazebo), trim the

shi ngles at each hip ridge .

E. Repeat the procedure to s hingle t he re maini ng

s ide (s) of the roof. Overlap the ridge wi th the top

course of shi ngles and na il them to the othe r roof

s ide; do not overl<:lp more th<:ln 5". O n a hip roof,

tri m the shi ngles a long the h ip ridge.

STEP 4 : INSTALL THE RIDGE CAPS A. Cut ridge caps fro m standard shingle tabs: taper

eac h tab alo ng the side edges, starting from the

top of the slots a nd cutt ing u p to the top edge.

C u t three caps from each shingle- you 'll need

one cap for every 5" of ridge.

B. Snap a cha lk line across t he shingles, 6" from the

ridge. Starting at t he gab le ends (for a gab le roof)

or the bottom edge (fo r a hi p roof), instal l t he

caps by bending the m over t he ridge a nd aligni ng

one side edge wi th t he chalk li ne. Fasten eac h

cap w ith one nai l on each roof side, 5Y/, from the

An ished (exposed ) edge a nd I" from the side edge.

J'vb inta in a 5" expos ure for each shi ngle. Fasten

t he last shi ngle wi th a nail a t each corner, then

cover t he na il head s with roon ng ce me nt.

C . Trim the ove rhanging shingles a long the gab le

e nds: Snap chalk lines along the gable ends, %" from the dri p edges. Trim the sh ingles a t the lines.

Cover a ny exposed na ils with rooll ng cem e nt.


I Cedar Shingles

Cedar sh ingles come in 161!, IS lt, and 24" lengt hs

and in random w idths , ge nera lly be tween 3 11 and

10" w ide. The exposure of the shingles depends on the slope of the roof and the length and guality of the shingles (c heck wit h the manufacturer), Because they"re sold in a few different gr<:tdes, make Slife the shingles you get arc good enough to be used as roofi ng. Also, be a\·va re that ga lva ni zed

nails Ill ay cause some stai ni ng or s treaki ng on th e

shingles; if you can't acce pt tha t, usc a luminum or

stainless-steel nails.

The project s hmvn here uses 18" shingles with

a 51/ / exposure installed on a gab le roof. At the

r idge , t he s hingles are cove red vvit h 3 1 x cedm

Installing Roof Vents ~

Roof vents used in conjunction with soffit vents can help keep the air In your shed cooler and cleaner. Vents are rated by square inches of ventilation area; most sheds need only two roof vents and two to four soffit vents.

ridge ca p, which is eas ier to insta ll than ca p

s hingl es . If you want to s hing le a h ip roof, cons ult

a professional.

Tools & Materials ~

Utility knife Cha lk line

Circu lar saw

Table saw T-beve l Cedar shi ngles

2 X 4 lumber I Yt" and 2"

roofing nai ls

6d ga lvanized nails

I x 4 and I x 6 cedar

Cau lk/Sea lant

Install roof vents centered between two rafters, about 16" to 24" from the ridge board. Cut a hole through the roof sheathing, following the manufacturer's instructions (photo, fa r left) .

After applying building paper (page 55), center the vent over the hole, and trace around Its base flange.

Install shingles to a point at least 2" Inside the bottom of the outline- don't cover the hole.

Apply roofing cement to the underside of the base flange, then Install the vent over the shingles, using rubber-gasket roofing nails driven into all of the flange sides.

Shingle over the Side and top vent flanges, leaving the bottom flange exposed; do not nail through the flanges with the shingle nails (photo, left).

I How to Install Cedar Shingle Roofing

STEP 1: INSTALL THE STARTER COURSE A. App ly building paper to the entire roof,

overhanging th e eaves by %" (see page 55 ).

B. Posit ion the first s hingle in the sta rter course so it

overha ngs the ga ble edge by J " and the eave edge

by I Y," . Tack or clamp a 2 X 4 spacer to the fascia to help set the overhang. Make sure the butt

(thick) end of the shingle is pointing down. Fasten the shingJe with two 1 W' roofing nails, driven 4 11

up from the butt end a nd at least I" from the s ide

58 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

edges. Drive the nails just flu sh with the surface

counte rsinking creates a cavity that collects \·va ter.

C. Install the remaining shingles in the starter course,

main ta ining a W' to %" gap betwee n shingles. If

necessary, trim the last shingle to width.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE REMAINING COURSES A. Set the first sh ingle in the first cou rse so its butt

and outside edges a re fiu s h \,vith the shingles in

the starter course and it overlaps the shingle gap

belm'v by I Y2 1! . Fas ten the shingle I to 21! above

the exposu re line and I" from the side edges.

B. Ins ta ll the re main ing s hingles in the flrst co u rse, ma inta ining a Yt ll to %" gap between shingles.

C. S nCl p a c ha lk li ne across the s hingles Cit t he

exposu re line (SY/ in th is exa m ple). Install the

second course, a ligni ng the butt e nds \vith the

c halk line . Make sure shi ngle gaps are offset with

the gaps in the first course by I Y2 11 .

D. Insta ll the re maini ng cou rses, usi ng c ha lk lines

to se t th e exposure. Measu re from the ridge

periodica lly to ma ke su re the cou rses are para lle l

to the ridge. O ffset the shi ngle ga ps by I Vi' with

the gCl ps in the preceding th ree cou rses- tha t is,

any ga ps that are Cll igned must be fou r courses

apart. Add courses until the top (thi n) e nds of the

shi ngles are withi n a fe\",! inches of the ridge.

E. Shingle th e oppos ite side of the roof.

STEP 3: SHINGLE THE RIDGE A. Cut a strip of bu ilding pape r to 24" wide a nd as

long as the ridge. Fold th e pape r in ha lf and lay it

Install the starter row of shingles, overhanging the gable end by %" and the eave by 1 W'.

Cover the ridge with 24" of building paper, then a course of trimmed shingles. Repeat with 12" of paper and shingles.

over the ridge so it overlaps th e shi ngles on both

sides of the roof; tac k it in p lace with staples.

B. Install another cou rse of shi ngles on eac h s ide,

t rimm ing the top edges so they a re flush with th e

ridge. C u t Cl nother str ip o f b ui lding pape r 12" wide , fold it, a nd lay it ove r these sh ingles.

C. Insta ll the flnCl I cou rse o n each s ide. t rimm ing the

ends flu s h with the ridge. Na il the s hingles about

2Y2" from the ridge .

STEP 4 : INSTALL THE RIDGE CAP A. Find t he angle of the ridge usi ng a T- beve l a nd

two scraps of I x boa rd: pos ition t he boa rds a lo ng

the ridge with the ir edges butted togethe r. Set the

T-beve l to match the a ngle.

B. Transfe r the angle to a table saw or c ircular saw

and rip tes t pieces of I x. Test-fit the pieces on

the ridge, and adjust the angles as needed .

C. Cu t the I x 6 a nd I X 4 ca p board s to run the

le ngth of the ridge. Join th e boards w ith sea lant

and 6d ga lva nized box na ils . Attac h the cap to the

ridge with 2" rooflng na il s d riven every 12".

Install the first course of shingles on top of the starter course, offsetting the shingle gaps 1%" between the courses.

use a T-bevel and scrap boards to filld the ridge angles, then cut the 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 for the ridge cap.


I Metal Roofing

Meta l roofing pane ls typica lly a re ava ilable in

3-ft .-widc panels , with most styles using so me form

of stand ing seam design, wh ich adds strength and

provides means for joining sheets. You can buy the

roollng through metal roofing supplie rs and at home

cente rs, but the fo rrn er typically offer more color optio ns, a nd they'll c ustom -cut the pa ne ls to flr

your project. Most manufacturers supply fubber

washered na ils or screws fo r a \,va tertight seal-use the recommended fasteners to prevent prematu re ru sting

due to galvanic ac t ion (caused by contact bctv·,1ccn

dissimilar meta ls).

Insta ll meta l roofi ng over 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 pur lins

Il Cli led perpendi cular to the rafters at J 2" to 24" on cente r- chec k "'.l it h the rnanufctcture r fo r purli n

I How to Install Metal Roofing

STEP 1: INSTAll THE PURlINS A. lVIark the purlin layout on the top edges of the

the rafters , and snap a c halk line for eac h row.

Fasten 2 x 4 purl in s to the rafters wi th 16d commo n na ils ; LIse Sd na ils for I x 4s. j\/lake sure


spac ing a nd load req uire me nts. So me roof panels req uire purlin s with matching profiles. At the gable

ends, add blocking hetween the purlins to provide a nai ling surface for the end panels and the dri p edge.

Tools & Materials ~

Cha lk line

Circu lar saw

Drill

I x 4 or

16d common nails

lVIeta l roofing pane ls

a nd preformed

ridge cap,

2 x 4 lumber \·vith fasteners

the upper-most purlins vvi ll sup port the roollng ridge cap.

B. O n the gable e nds , cut bl ocking to Ilt between

the purlins , and insta ll it so the outs ide edges arc

flu sh with the outer faces of the oute r rafte rs .

Install the purlins across the rafters, then add blocking at the gable ends.

STEP 2 : INSTAll THE ROOF PANElS A. Set the first roof panel across the purl ins so the

finished side edge overha ngs the gab le-end fascia by 2" and the bottom en d overhangs the eave by

211, Fasten the pa ne l with self-tapping sc rews or

roofing na ils \v ith rubber w<Jshe rs, fo llowing the man ufacture r's direc tions fo r spac ing.

B. In sta ll the suhsequen t panels, ove rlapping eac h panel according to the manufacturer's direct ions .

C. liotate the final panel 180 ' from the others, so

the finished side edge is at the gab le end. Overlap

the preceding panel by as much as necessa ry so the fln ished edge overhangs the gable edge by 2", Fasten the fina l panel.

STEP 3: INSTAll THE RIDGE CAP A. Center the preformed ridge cap over the peak

$0 it overlaps the roofing panels. Make sure the cap overha ngs th e gable ends equally on bot h sides. Note: Some products include ridge-cap

sealing strips .

B. Fasten the ridge cap to the top purlins.

Install the panels to the purl ins using pole barn screws or other rubber-washer, self-tapping screws.

Add the ridge cap at the roof peak, covering the panels on both roof sides.

------ -


I Siding & Trim

The s iding and exterior t rim not only provide an

attract ive skin fo r your bu ilding, t hey protect t he

st ructure from the weathe r. It 's im portant to keep this

fu nct ion in m ind as you insta ll the m: wa tch for areas

\·vhe re \·vate r ca n pool or tric kJe in, and make su re a ll

unfi ni shed edges and seams are covered or sea led wit h cau lk.

Many sid ing manufac tu rers recommen d staining or

prim ing the back side of the siding (ca lled backpri ming) before insta lling it , wh ich can help prevent the material

from cupping or warping. Since condi t ions V3'Y by region , ask you r suppl ier a bout the best treatme nt for

you r s id ing, or co ntact the manufacturer.

The na il s YO LI lise a re another important co ns ide ratio n . All na il s used outdoors must be

corros ion- resistant, such as galvan ized, a lu mi n um,

or stainless steel na il s. Ga lvanized a re the c heapest

but ca n cause sta in ing o n u n pai nted ceda r;

al uminum wi ll s ta in ceda r less than galvan ized, b ut

t he fasteners can he di ffi cu lt to dr ive; stai n less~

stee l na il s a re expe ns ive bu t a re s trong and pre tty

m uc h gua ran teed to no t sta in ceda r o r eve r corrode .

Ri ng~ or spiral~s han k sidi ng nails offer the grea test

holdi ng powe r.

App lya protective fin ish- sta in , pa int, o r

vClfnish- to yo ur sid ing <:I nd tr im <:IS soon as possible

afte r insta lling t he m . Man~made products, a lthough

often factory-pri med , a re especi<:llly s uscepti ble to

\va ter damage where ham mer blows, na il holes, and

Cll ts have marred the pro tect ive fi nish .

wood siding is still the standard for building sheds, but as these photos show, not all wood siding looks alike.


I Horizontal Siding

Common types of ho ri zo ntal s iding include clapboard

(a lso ca lled beve l or lap), whic h is ins ta lled to overlap

the piece be low it, and Do lly Varden , shiplap, a nd

drop styles, whi ch have grooved Imver edges that receive the top edge of the bomd beneath. All types come in <1 vmiety of sol id woods, a nd lap siding is a lso

ava ilable in faux-text ured hardbourd- an inexpensive

alternative to solid wood. I nsta ll horizonta l siding over plywood \.va ll

sheath ing and 151/ building pape r. For most

appli cations, it's easiest to in sta ll the exte rior trim first

then insta ll the s id ing to fit between the tri m boards.

T his mea ns that the doors and windows wi ll be in

place, too. T he sidi ng shown in thi s project is a hardboard lap

sid ing insta lled \v ith a 6" exposure. The boards have been primed on hoth s ides, whi ch p rotec ts the bac k

side from moisture and saves t ime whe n painting the

front s ide. \Nhichever s id ing you choose, chec k vvit h

t he man ufac turer regarding backpri ming and moistu re

p rotec tion . Determ ine the overlap before sta rti ng. You

can fol low the manu factu re r's minimum (typica lly l it),

o r lise more overlap so that the sid ing jo ints fal l even ly

at openings o r [l Iang the tops of the \va ll s.

Tools & Materials ~

C irc ula r saw

Jigsaw

Staple r

Utility knife

C ha lk line

Level

12" CDX plywood

6d box na il s

15# building paper

Siding

8d siding na ils

Caulk

I How to Install Horizontal Siding

STEP 1: INSTALL THE SHEATHING & BUILDING PAPER A. Insta ll W' p lywood sheath ing (*t min . for 16"

a.c. ; V:!" for 24" O.C.), s tarting at one corner of

the bu ildi ng. H old the side edge flush with the

corner framing and the bottom edge flu sh \,vith

the bottom of the Aoor frame. Make su re the

othe r side edge breaks on the cente r of a wa ll

st ud. The top edge should cove r at least one of the

wa ll plates. Nail the sheathing with 6d box na ils,

driven every 6" alo ng the edges and] 2" in the

fie ld of t he sheet.

B. Install the remaining sheets, leaving a ygll ga p

between sheets. Overlap the sheathing at the

corne rs. Sheat h over windm,v and door openings ,

then cut out the ope nings v.,Ii th a jigsaw or

rec ip roca ting saw.

C. App ly 151/ bui lding paper in horizonta l strips over

the e ntire wa ll surface, usi ng stap les driven about

every 1211. O verlap horizontal join ts by 2", vertica l

jo ints by 6 11 , and corners by 1211. H old or tr im the

paper Aus h with th e botto m of the Aoor frame.

\Nrap door a nd \,vindow openi ngs with paper.

D. Insta ll a ll exterior t rim, holding t he corner a nd

door t rim %" be\mA,T t he floor fram ing. Insta ll

flas hi ng over exposed doors a nd windovvs . Install plywood sheathing over the entire frame, then staple building paper over the sheathing.

(continuedl


STEP 2: INSTAll THE STARTER STRIP & FIRST COURSE A. Cu t 1 !I-wide starter strips of siding so there's

e nough to run the le ngth of a ll of the wa lls. If the

siding is beveled , cut: only from the top edge of

each piece, or lise stri ps of plywood that match the thi ckness of the sid ing's top edge.

B. Pos ition t he starter strip a long the bottom edge of the sheathing and fas te n i t to the fra ming with 8d

sid ing na il s .

C. S nap a c ha lk line above the bottom edge of the

shea thing at a height equ<:I l to the width of th e sid ing minus -XI! , lVl a rk th e centers of the wa ll

studs onto the bui ld ing pape r to fac ilitate na il ing.

D. Cut the first cou rse of siding to fit be t:\·vee n the

trim boa rd s; make it snug but not so tight tha t

you have to force the siding into p lace. Fasten

the siding with one 8d sid ing nai l driven at each

stud location , about I Y\" from the bottom edge. If YO LI need two boards to span the "va ll , cente r the

inside ends over a stud , leaving a Ys" gap between

them; drive two nails a t each end.

Nail a starter strip along the edge of the sheathing, then snap a chalk line and install the first row of siding.


STEP 3: INSTAll THE REMAINING COURSES A. Using the exposure dimension , measu re from the

top edge of the first course and s nap a cha lk line.

Make sure the line is level; if it's not level, make

slight adj ustments over the next few cou rses.

B. Install the next course, a ligni ng the top edge

with the chalk li ne. Na il the siding just above the

top edge of the cou rse below, driving one nail at

eac h stud. If the course has tvw board s, make

su re the joint falls one or two studs away from

the joint in the first course (s tagger the joints for

two more courses, then repeat th e pa tte rn Cit the

or iginal stud).

C. Snap c ha lk lines for the remaining cou rses, using

the reveal d imens ion , and chec k the lines for

leve l. Install the re main ing cou rses . Ma rk angled

cu ts using a pattern made fro m sc rap siding.

D . Afte r comp leting one wa ll , use a leve l to tra nsfer

the s iding layout onto the adjacen t wa ll , so that

the courses are a ligned horizontally.

E. W hen a ll of the siding is insta lled, caulk a ll joints

whe re sid ing meets trim or othe r pieces of sid ing.

Drive siding nails into the studs, just above the preceding course (inset). Caulk all end joints after the Insta llation.

I Plywood Siding

Plywood siding is the least expensive and easiest to

insta ll of a ll the standard exterior Anis hes . It's avai lab le

in 4 x 8-ft., 9-ft., and l O-ft. sheets; %", WI, or %" thicknesses; and in several styles, including st riated,

rough sawn, chan nel groove, and board-&-batten . T he most common style, Textu re J - J] (s hown here), is

made to resemble vert ica l bomd siding <Jnd typ icully has

shi p-lap edges that form \.veather-proof vertical seams.

Another advantage of plywood sid ing is that the

panel s serve as bracing for framed wa lls, e li minat ing

the need fo r s heathing. P lywood sid ing is cxtcrio r

grade, but the layered edges must be protected from

moisture. For types with unm illed (square) edges,

I How to Install Plywood Siding

STEP 1: INSTALL THE FIRST ROW OF SIDING A. Snap a e ha lk li ne for the top edges of the sid ing,

accounting fo r the overhang at the bottom edge: fo r ".,rood floors, overhang the bottom of the floor

frame by %I! to I "; for slabs, overhang the top of

the slab by I".

B. Posit ion the Ilrst sheet- vertica lly- at LI corne r so

o ne s ide edge is fl ush with the corner fra ming LI nd

the other hreaks on the center of a stud; hold the

top edge on the chalk line. C heck with a level to

make su re the sheet is p lum b, then fasten it with

Sd galvan ized Ilnish nails, driven every 6" along the

perimeter and every 12" in the fie ld of the sheet.

C. Insta ll the remaining s heets, c hecking eac h one

for pl umb a nd leaving a W' gap bet\veen sheets.

(For shiplap edges, first fit the sheets t igh t, then

drav,l a penc il line a long the upper sheet's edge.

Sl ide over the upper sheet W', using the mark as

1

Install the plywood siding vertically. Plumb each sheet and fasten it to the framing with 6d nails.

caulk the gap at vertica l seams or install a 1 x 2 batten

strip over the joint. All horizontal jo in ts must have

meta l Z-fl as hing for moisture protection.

Tools & Materials ~

Cha lk line

Level

C ircu lar saw

Plywood siding

Sd galvanized finis h nails

6d galvanized box na ils

Ga lva nized or a luminum

Z-fb shi ng

a gauge.) At the joi nts, do not na il t h rough both

sheets with one nail. Overlap the sheets a t the

corners, if desi red (they \,vi ll be covered by trim ,

in any case). App ly sid ing over door and windO\v

open ings, but do not nai l into the headers if YO LI

will insta ll flas hi ng (sec page 73) . If you start with

a trim med sheet, p lace the cut edge at the corner.

STEP 2 : INSTALL THE FLASHING & SECOND ROW A. Install Z-flas hing a long the top edge of the siding,

using 6d galvanized box na il s .

B. Install the upper row of siding, leaving a y~" gap

above the flas h ing. C. Cut out the door a nd window openings \ ... rith a

c ircular saw, jigsa\v, or rec iprocating saw.

D. Install t rim over the flas hed joints and at the

bui ld ing corners.

l Add galvanized metal flashing between rows of siding to prevent water from entering the seam.


I Tongue & Groove Vertical Siding

So lid-wood, tongue-a nd-groove boa rd siding has a n a ttract ive, natu ral look that is we ll -su ited for outdoor

bui ld ings. Sta ndard sizes of si ding are I x 4 , I x 6, and I x 8, avai lab le in cedar, reelwood, pine , and other

wood s pecies. The type shovvn in this project is cedar 1 X 8 siding with V-grooves . Buy your siding long enough to rU Il the full height of the building, beca use horizonta l joints are di fficu lt to make and they don't ahvays look good.

Note: Unlike pl)~l'Ood siding, tongue-and-groove

boards do not provide adequate bracing for the wall

structure. Unless you use plywood sheathing as baching for tonglle-and-groove siding, you must install} X 4 or J x 6 "let-in" bracing.

Sid ing that is 6" w ide (no mi ned dim ens io n) o r na rrowe r can be blindn aile d \\l ith a ngled na il s driven at the base of th e tongue only, so the heads are hidd en by the groove of the next pi ece (photo , right top ); 8 11 o r wide r s id ing s hould be face nailed w ith nvo nail s at eac h support (p hoto,

right bottom). If your building is st ic k-fra med, add 2 x 4

bloc king bet\,veen the studs at 24" on cente r to suppo rt the Siding.

Tools & Materials ~

C ircu lar saw

C h"lk line Level 2 x 4 blocking

16d nail s Siding 8d siding nail s or

6d ga lva nized fini sh na ils

I How to Install Vertical Tongue & Groove Siding

66 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORA IW SHEDS

Snap chalk lines at 24" intervals to guide the blocking placement. Endnail the blocking between the studs.

STEP 1: ADD BLOCKING (IF NEEDED) A. S nap horizo nta l c hal k lines across the studs, 24"

apart, measur ing from the fl oor.

B. Cut 2 x 4 b locks to fi t between the studs.

E ndnai l the bloc ks to the studs with 16d na ils.

Pos it io n a lternate blocks below the cha lk li ne to

fac ilita te nail ing.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE SIDING A. If you arc b lindna ili ng t he s iding, position the

fi rs t piece with the grooved edge flus h with t he

corner framing; if you're face nai li ng, use e ither

edge. Overhang the bottom of the board V/1 to I II below the bottom of the fl oor frami ng (for

wood Aoors) or I" below the top of the slab (fo r

concrete fl oors).

B. Hold a level along the leading edge to make sure the board is plumb, then fas ten the boa rd a long

the outs ide edge, every ] 6 11, For blind na ili ng,

drive a 6d ga lva nized fi ni sh na il into each support

<llong the tongue; for facena ii ing, drive t\\'O 8c1 siding na il s at each support, 1 Y211 to 211 fro m the

side edges. C. Ins tall the next boa rd, fitting toget her the

tongue·and-groove joi nt . Nail at each su pport.

D . Ins tall the remai ning boards. C heck every th ird

or fou rth board w ith the level to ma ke sure it's

p lumb. Notch boards to fit fl ush around window

and door openings; do not na il in to the headers if

you plan to in sta ll flashing (see page 73 ). To sta rt

<1 wa ll with <1 t rimmed boa rd, place the cu t edge <1t

t he corne r.

Plumb every third or fourth board with a level, making minor adjustments to the Joints, if necessary.


I Installing Trim

Trim in c ludes the boards that conceal building

scams, cover gaps around wi ndow and door frames,

finish co rne rs, a nd perform oth er decorative

and weathe rproofi ng fun c tions. For s heds and

olltbuildings, s imple trim det<Jiis with I x 3, I X 4, or j X 6 cedar boards work we ll.

The type of siding YO Ll lise w ill determine when to

insta ll the t ri m. For horizonta l siding, install the trim first; for most othe r types, install the trim over the

siding. If the trim is insta lled before the siding, make

sure it's level and plum b- otherwise, you'll have to cut custom angles o n the s iding e nds.

T he sim plest method for installing t ri m is to use

butt jo in ts. A slightl y fan c ie r a lternati ve is to miter

them. Trim jo ints are most no t icea ble on v,rindO\v

Window trim with butt JOin ts

Window trim with miter joints

68 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORAIW SHEDS

and door tr im (see photos, belovv), but you ca n mite r

corne r trim, too.

To in sta ll window and doo r tr im with butt joints,

add the head trim first , then cut the t \VO side pieces

to fit. In sta ll m itered trim pieces o n oppos ing sides,

(tha t is, top and bottom , then s ides, or vice versa). Leave a ~11 reveal fo r all window and door t rim. T hi s

adds interest and makes bowed jambs less noticeab le.

Exposed doors and windows must have Aashing above

the trim.

To in sta ll co rne r trim , cut tv·.'O pieces to length ,

t hen nail them together at a right angle, using 6d or 8d

ga lvanized box nails or nnish nails. Set the trim on the

corne r, plumb it \v ith a level, and nail it to the fram ing

with 8d ga lva nized box or fin ish na ils.

Nail corner trim pieces together before insta lling them.

Finishing Roof Overhangs ~

A common method for finishing the underside of a roof overhang is to install soffit panels that enclose the rafter ends. Soffits can be attached directly to the rafters or to horizontal blocking that extends back to the wall. An

alternative to sofflttlng IS leaving the rafter ends exposed.

With this application, the wall siding is notched to fit around the rafters.

A roof overhang should also include means for ventilating the building. With soffits, this can be achieved with soffit vents- metal grates (available in rectangular, plug, and strip styles) that cover holes cut into the soffit panels. Exposed overhangs are by nature ventilated but

should have bug screen to seal the gaps between the walls and the roof sheathing. To increase ventilation, you can also install roof vents (see page 58).


I Doors & Windows

Shed doors a nd windows can be e ither prehung

(factory-bui lt ) or home made. The shed projects in

th is book include plans for maki ng your ovm doors and v\rindO\vs . They're simple designs Llsing bas ic materials and can be built in an hour or two.

I prehung Doors & Windows

Prchung door and window units come in standard s izes,

or they can be ordered in custom sizes, though at a higher

price. Before framing the \valls of your shed, select a door

or window and confirm its exact dimens ions before sizi ng

the rough openi ngs; be sure to lISC the outer dimensions

of the unit's frame, not those of the door or window itself. Most exterior doors have preattac hed tr im, called

brick molding, on the ou ts ides of t he jambs. You can

remove this if you wan t to add you r own trim .

To keep wate r out, ins ta ll flashing above the

trim of any doors or windows that are exposed- that

is, without a roof overhang above. If security is a

concern, install a deadbol t for a pre-hung door or a

hasp la tch and padlock for a homemade door.

Tools & Materials ~

Level

Handsaw

N a il se t

Door o r w indow unit

Tapered cedar s him s

Constructio n ad hesive

16d galva nized cas ing

nails (door) or

1 %" roofing nails

(window)

I How to Install a prehung Window

I' I ~_

70 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

Add pairs of tapered shims under the side window jambs and under the center of the sill.

Note: Window installations vary by product and

tIIanufacturer; follow the specific instmctiolls provided for

your window, including the steps fvr prepari-Hg th.e rough opening, shilll.ming, flashing, etc . Shown here are the basic

steps for installing a utility window with a 11ailingfiange.

STEP 1: SET & SHIM THE WINDOW A. Se t the win dow into the rough opening and

center it between the sides. Place pa irs of tapered shims di rectly be neat h the s ide jambs a nd at the cen ter of t he sill; position the sh ims so the tape red ends are opposed to form a flat surface.

B. From ou tside, d rive one I %" roofin g na il through t he na ili ng fl a nge at one of th e lower

corners of the wi ndow, but do not drive t he na il complete ly.

STEP 2: LEVEL & FASTEN THE WINDOW A. Place a level across the si ll or top of the jamb,

and adjust the shi ms unti l the \,vindow is pcrfcc tly level.

B. Drive one nail th rough the nailing fl ange at eac h corner of the win dow. Check the windm,v operation to make sure it's smooth, the n complete the nailing, fo llowing the manufactu re r's instructio ns for spacing.

C. If the ma nufacturer recommen ds leaving the shims in place, tri m the sh ims with a uti lity knife, then glue them in place with construction adhes ive.

Level the window, then fasten the unit In place with roofing nails driven through the nail ing flange on the exterior.


I How to Install a prehung Door

STEP 1: PLUMB & FASTEN THE HINGE JAMB A. Cut out the botto m p late ins ide the rough

open ing, using a ha ndsaw. Hemove any

b raci ng or nails installed to protec t t he doo r

dur ing sh ipp ing. B. Set the door into the openi ng and center it

hetween the sides. Pus h the bric k moldi ng Rat

against the shea thing or siding; if the re's no

mold ing, position the outs ide edge of the jamb

Rus h with the siding or s heathi ng. Insert pai rs of

tapered s hi ms (with the tapered ends opposed to

form a flat surface) between the hi nge ja m b and

the framing. Add sh ims at the top and bottom and

a t each hinge location.

C. Start ing with the top sh ims, c heck the hi nge jamb

with a level to make su re it's p lum b, and adjust

the shims as needed. Na il through the ja m b and

shims an d into the framing with o ne 16d cas ing

nai l. Repea t a t the remaini ng shi m locat ions.

Plumb the door jamb, working from the top down. Fasten through the jamb and each shim pair with a casing nail.


STEP 2: SECURE THE LATCH & HEAD JAMBS A. Stan ding inside t he s hed, c lose the door, a nd

examine the gap between the door ancl latc h jamb.

Starting at the top of the latc h jamb, insta ll shi ms

between the jamb and the fru m ing. C hec k the gap

to make Slife you're no t bowing the jamb. Fasten

the ja mb and shims with o ne 16d casing nai l.

B. Shi m and faste n the la tc h jamb at four more

locat ions, level with t he hinge-side shi ms, making

sure the gap a long the door rema ins consiste nt. C. Shim a nd fasten the head jamb at two locations .

For added support, you can replace one sc rew o n

each hinge "',l ith a 3Y21! screw, hu t be careful not to

overtighten them and pu ll the fra me out of square.

D . Nai l through the bri ck mold ing and into the

sheathi ng (o r sid ing) and framing wi th 16d casing

nails driven every 16", E. Cut off the shims flus h with the fra ming, us ing a

ut ility knife. Set a ll nails vvith a nai l set.

Shim the latch jamb, uSing the gap between the door and the jamb as a gauge. Make sure the gap is consistent.

I Homemade Doors & Windows

To make your O\vn door or wi ndo"v, build a nd install the frame, measu re the opening, then build a nd insta ll

the door to fit (or add the glass). Use I x lumber for the frame, ripping it to \vid th so it spa ns the wa ll section of the rough opening.

You can make a homemade door with almos t any rigid boctrd: siding, plywood, lumber, etc. Use the door plans provided in the shed project or create your own des ign.

For win dows, you can usc standard plate glass, tempered safety glass, Plcxiglass 11\1, or super-tough Y." po lycarbonate glazing (used in public structures such as bus stop shelters ).

Insta lling a ho memade door or window fmllle is sim ilar to instCllling a prehu ng door: center the frame in the rough opening, shim between the jambs and f ra mi ng, plumb and level the frame , and fasten it th rough the jamb and shims . Because a home made door frame has no threshold to secu re the bottom en ds of the side jambs, ins tal l a temporary

Ix spreader across the jambs to keep t he frame square during insta llatio n.

To insta ll a homemade door, moun t the hinges to the door, the n set the door in the frame a nd hold it

aga inst the stops. Insert shi ms undernea th the door and bet\veen the door and latc h jamb to set even gaps around the door. i\llount the hi nges to the wall

with screws.

Flashing Above Doors & Windows ~

Install metal flashing where siding meets trim to help

divert water away from doors, windows, and their frames. 1 When the Siding IS installed after the trim:

Nail the flashing to the sheathing so It laps over the

trim, then install the siding over the vertical flange of the flashing.

When the Siding IS installed before the trim :

• Set the trim in place above the door or window, then trace along the top edge and ends of the trim (photo 11.

• Remove the trim and cut out the Siding along the traced lines.

• Slip the flashing underneath the siding and fasten it with nails driven through the siding (complete the siding nailing).

• Reinstall the cut-out siding below the flashing- to serve as backing- then install the trim (photo 21.

Trace along the trim to mark the cutting lines for removing the Siding.

2 Flashing

Add the flashing, then install the siding cutout and the trim.


I Ramps, Steps & Decks

Most of the sheds in this book with framed wood floo rs have a finished floor height that sits at

least 10" above the grou nd. This m<Jkes for a fa irly ta ll step up to the shed. On a slop ing site, t he approach to the shed may be considerably lower than the floor.

I Simple Ramp

A basic, sturdy ramp is a great convenience for moving heavy eq uip me nt in and out of your shed. Using the sim ple design shovm here, YOLI can make the slope of the ramp as gen tle or as steep as YOLI like (vlithi n

reason). Of cou rse, the gentler the slope, the easier i t is ro ll things up the ramp . Construct your ramp from pressu re-trea ted lumber ra ted for "grou nd con tace" If

des ired, set the bottom end of the ramp on a bed of compacted gravel for added stability.


But not to worry- you can quickly bu il d a custom ramp or set: of steps for safe, easy access. As an alternat ive, YOLI might <Jdd a large platform that serves as both a step a nd a su n porc h.

Tools & Materials ~

Saw Drill Fram ing square 2 X 4 pressu rc-

treated lumber

2 x 6 pressuretreated lum ber

3" corrosionresistant scre\vs

I How to Build a Shed Ramp

STEP 1: DETERMINE THE SLOPE & INSTALL THE LEDGER A. Set a board onto the shed floor in front of the door

opening \,vith its end on the ground . Experi ment

with different placements until you flnd the bes t

slope for you r needs. B. lVlark vvhere the end of the bOClrd meets the

grou nd. iVleasure in toward the shed about 6 11 ,md make another mark- this represents the end of the ramp.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE LEDGER A. Drmva leve l line onto the shed's Aoar frame 4%"

be low the shed's floor surface.

8 . Cu t a 2 X 4 ledger board to length so it equa ls the

to ta l width of the ramp. Note: The ramp sllOuld be at least as wide as the door opening.

C. Position the ledger on the level l ine so it is cente red from side to side underneath the door.

Place a board between the ground and the shed floor to find the desired ramp slope.

(continued)


STEP 3: CUT THE FIRST STRINGER A. To mark the angles for the stri nger cuts, plot the

layout of the ramp onto a sheet of plywood (or the

shed floor). Fi rst, use a framing square to make two perpendicu lar lines represent ing the front: of

the shed and the ground. Measu re the height of the shed fl oor, then subt ract I %", Transfer this d imension to one of the layoll t lines. j\/!easure from the shed to the end~of. ram p mark on the ground, then transfer th is d imension to the other layout linc.


B. P lace a 2 X 6 s tringer bO<:l rd o nto the layout lines

so its top edge meets the t\\'o I1lClrks. Use the perpe ndicular lines to mark the angled end cuts on the stri nger. iVlake the cuts.

C . Cu t the upper e nd of the stringer to accept the ledge r by making a I WI-deep notc h starti ng about

2%" down from the top edge. T he notch shou ld be

para ll el to the end of the stringer.

Mark a level line 4%" below the floor to locate the top edge of the ledger.

use perpendicular layout lines to mark the angled end cuts on the first stringer.

STEP 4: CUT & INSTALL THE REMAINING STRINGERS A. Test-fit the first stringer on th e ledger. Make s ure

the 2 x 6 decking will no t exten d above t he shed

floor when installed. Make adjustments to the

str inger cuts CIS needed.

B. Use the first str inger as a template to ma rk the cuts on the remaining str ingers . You'll need one

stringer for each end and every 121! to 16" in

between . Cut th e remaining st ri ngers.

C. Fasten the stringers to the ledger a nd the shed's floor fra me lIsing 3" screws. The e nd st ri ngers

sho uld be flus h with the ends of th e ledger.

D. Fasten the ledger to the floor framing w ith 3"

corros io n-resis tant sc rews.

STEP 5: INSTALL THE DECKING A. Cu t 2 x 6 decking boards to equa l th e width of

the ramp.

B. IVlake su re the str ingers are perpendicular to the shed, and then fasten the decking boards to the

st ringers w ith 3 1t sc rews. Leave a Y4" gap between

boa rds to promote drainClge a nd add trac tion on

the ramp surface. Note: If the top or bottom board will be narrower dwn 2", plan the deck ing layout so the first and last boards are roughly the sallie width.

C. If desi red, beve l the front edge o f the board at the

bottorn of the ramp to ease the transition .

Make sure the first stringer fits well, then use it to mark the remain ing stringers for cutting.

Fasten the decking to the stringers With 3" screws to complete the ramp.


I Traditional Stairs

A s lllail set of fra me d wooden stairs is usua lly cu lled

for H,hen a shed fl oor stands at about 21 II or morc

above the ground (for Imver floors, you might prefer to

bu ild a couple of s imple platforms for t h ree easy steps

into the shed; see p<Jge 82 ). But regardless of the floo r he ight, notched-stringer sta irs add a nice handmade, bu il t- in look to a n entrance. And it's fun to lea rn

the geometry and carpe ntry skill s behind tradi ti ona l stair bu ilding.

\~! hcn planni ng your project, bear in mind tha t stairs in genera l arc strictly governed by bui ld ing

codes. Your local bUi ld ing department may impose

spec ific design requ irements for your project, or they may not get involved at all- just be Sli re to fi nd out. In any case, here are some of the stan dard req uireme nts

for stairs:


• M ini m um tread depth : 10"

• iVlaximum riser height : 7~ 1! (7W' is a good

standard height )

• iVlin imum stair vvidth: 36" (make your staircase at

least a few inches \".'ider tha n the shed's door open ing)

• A ha ndra il is often req ui red for s tairs w it h

more than one riser, b ut this may not apply fo r

storage sheds and t he like (check wi th the loca l

bu ilding departmen t )

Because stai rs arc easie r and safer to usc when

starting fro m a Aat la nding a rea, it's a good idea to

inc lude a level pad of compacted gravel at t he base of

you r stai rs. This a lso provides stctb il ity for the staircase

and el im inates t he poten tia l for a sl ippery, muddy

patch fo rm ing at the landi ng area .

Calculating Step Size ~

Properly built stairs have perfectly uniform treads (the part you step onl and risers (the vertical section of each step). To determine the riser height, all you have to do IS divide the total rise- the distance from the ground to the shed

floor- and divide by the number of steps. If you end up with risers over 7%", add another step. Determining the tread depth is up to you. However, because shallow steps are hard to climb and easy to triP on,

you should make your treads at least 10" deep, but preferably 11" or more. The tread depth multiplied by the number of

steps gives you the total run- how far the steps extend in front of the shed . When cutting the stringers, you cut the first (bottom) riser shorter than the others to account for the thickness of the tread material.

Tools, Materials & Cutting List ~

Framing square C ircular 53\'V

i-Iandsm,v Drill and bits Sledgehammer

Compactib le gravel 2 x 12 pressure

treated lumber Corrosion resis tant

frami ng connectors

STEP 1: LAY OUT THE FIRST STRINGER A. Use CI fra ming sq uare to layout the Ilrst st ringer

onto a straight piece of 2 x 12 lumber. Starting at

one e nd of the board, position the square along the board's top edge. A lign th e 12" mark of the bbde (long leg of the sq uare) and the 6 W' mark on the tongue (short leg of the square ) "vith the edge of the boa rd . Trace along the edges of the hlade and tongue. The tongue ma rk represents the firs t riser.

B. Usc the square to exte nd t he blade marking ac ross the full width of the board . Then, draw a para llel line I" up fro m th is linc. T he new li ne marks the bottom cut for the st ringe r (the 1 II offset accounts

for the thickness of the tread material ). C. Continue the ste p layo ut , starting at the po int

where the first ri ser meets the top of the board. D. Mark the cutting line a t the top e nd of the stringer

by extending the t hi rd (top) tread marking across the full width of the board . From this line, make

a perpe ndicu lar line 12" from the top riser: this is \vhere you 'll cu t the edge of the stringer that: fits

against the shed.

] Od x I WI ga lvan ized nails

3" galva nized screvvs 2Y2" ga lv(:I nized screvvs

2 x 4 pressure~

treated lumber

2 16" lengths of

#4 ("' ''-dia. ) reba r

Y.. X 6 press urc ~

treated lumber

stringer cuts

Bottom stringer

cuts

offset

use a framing square to mark the treads, risers, and end cuts on the stringer.


I How to Build Notched-Stringer Stairs

STEP 2: CUT THE STRINGERS A. Make the cuts on the fi rst stringer using a circular

saw set to fu ll depth. Where treads and risers

intersect, cut just up to the li nes , then finis h the

cuts w ith a handsmv.

B. Test-fit the stringer o n the shed. The top tread

cut shou ld be I" be low the shed floo r. Make

adjust ments to the stringer cuts as needed. C. Usc the first stri nger as a te m plate to mark the

remain ing stringers. You 'll need one stringer for

each end and every 12" to 16" in between. Cut

the remaining stringers.


STEP 3 : INSTAll THE STRINGERS A. Mark a level line onto the shed's floor frame, I "

be low the finis hed floor surface. O nto the level line, mark the center and outsides of the stairs.

Transfer the side markings to the ground lIs ing <1

squme and straightedge . B. Cu t 2x bloc king to carry the bottom ends of the

st ringers. Fasten the blocking to the ground llsi ng

16" p ieces of 114 rcbar driven through Y2 !1 holes.

For concrete or masonry, usc masonry screws or a

powder-ac tuated nai ler.

Cut out stringers With a circular saw, and finish the corners of the cuts with a handsaw

Mount the top ends of the stringers to the shed using framing connectors (shown). Anchor the bottom ends to blocking.

C. Anc hor the tops of the str ingers to the floor frame with corrosio n-resistant framing con nectors, us ing ] YZ "- Iong ] Od ga lvanized common nails. T he tops

of the st ringers shou ld be Aush wit h the level line. D. Anc hor the bottom ends of the stringers with nai ls

or screws.

STEP 4: ADD THE TREAD & RISER BOARDS A. Cut the treads to length fro m 'Y.l X 8"

pressu re-trea ted decking lum ber or two 'Y.l X 6" boards ripped to 4" eac h. You can cut the treads

to fit fl us h with the outs ide stringers or overhang them by 1/2" or so for a different look.

B. On e<:lch step, position a full -vvidth tread at the front v,rith the des ired overhang beyond the ri ser belov,r.

Fasten the tread to the stringers \vith 2Y2" galvan ized scre\\'s. Rip the second tread to size and faste n it behind the first tread, leavi ng a ~" gap between the boards. Insta ll the remain ing tread boards.

C. If des ired , insta ll I x 6 ri se r boards so the e nd s are

flush with the outside stri nge rs (no overhang). Or, you can omit the ri ser boards for open steps.

Option: Add riser boards to enclose each step.

Trim the rear tread boards as needed to fit behind the front treads.

Option: Leave off riser boards for an open staircase.


I Platforms for Steps & Decking

This simp le platform is a popular o ption fo r s heds

because it's so casy to bu ild and it provides a stu rdy step for comfortable access. You can use the sa me basic design to make pla tfo rms of any size. A large

platform call become eln outdoor sitting area, while a

stack of smaller plut fo rms can c reate [.I set of steps that

are Clccessib le from three directions. For stab ili ty and longevity, set your platfo rm s on top of solid concrete

blocks-the same type used for b lock foundat ions.

Sec page 30 for morc information abou t buying concrete bloc k.


Tools & Materials ~

Shovel

Level Saw

Drill

Compactib le grave l (optiona l)

2x treated lumber

16d galvanized

common nails

3" deck screws

I How to Build a Basic Platform

STEP 1: BUILD THE PLATFORM FRAME A. C ut two long side pieces fro m 2 x 6 lum ber. These

sho uld egual the total length of the [Tame. C ut

two e nd pieces to fit between the s ide pieces. For exa mple, ifyoUf platform will measure 24 X 36", cut the sides at 36" and cut the ends at 23" . AJso cut an intermediate support fo r every 16" in he tween : make these the same length as the end pieces.

B. Fasten the e nd pieces be tween the sides v.l ith

pairs of 16d ga lvanized common nails .

C. Fasten the in te rmedia te support at th e center of the frame or at \ 6 11 in te rva ls.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE DECKING A. C ut 2 X 6 decking board s to fit thc long d imens ion

of the platform frame (you can also use Y; X 6

dec ki ng boa rds). Option: For C/ finished look, wt the decking about J" too long so it overhangs the frame structure.

B. lVleas ure the frame diagonally from corner to corner to make Slife i t is sq uare.

C. Sta rting a t the front edge of the frame, a ttach the dec ki ng to the fram ing pieces with pairs of 3" dec k sc rews. Leave a Y/ gap between the boards. Hip the last board to width so that it: overha ngs the front edge of the frame by I ".

D . Set the platform in posi tion o n top of the block fo un(btion. If des ired, fa sten the platform to the shed with 3" screws.

Assemble the frame pieces with pairs of 16d common nails.

\

k-

Install the decking with screws, leaving a Y/ gap between boards.

Option: Building Stepped Platforms ~

TO stack platforms for a set of steps, build the upper platform at least 20" narrower and 10" shallower than the lower platform. This creates a 10"-deep step along the entire lower level. Fasten the platforms together with screws to keep the upper platform in place.


I

Shed Projects

It 's time to roll out your cords, buckle on your too l

belt, and start building. Each custom project features a complete materials li st- lise this as a shopping list for buying all the raw materials at your loca l home center

or lumberyard. From the detailed drawi ngs and how-to

instructions you'll learn \A/ hat length to cut each piece

and whe re it goes in the fini shed product. The ste pby-step instructions will walk you through the entire

sequence, high lighting important and unique details

along the way. If you choose to build a kit shed, kecp in mind that the manufacturer of the kit you choose should provide detailed instructions. Note: Ma/{illg sheds la rger thall shown llU1Y require review of code/design criteria for 11Imber sizes, especially floor joists, roof joists, (flld headers.

In This Chapter:

• Clerestory Studio

• Sunlight Garden Shed

• Lean-to Tool Bin

• Convenience Shed

• Gambrel Garage

• Simple Storage Shed

• Gothic Playhouse

• Timber-frame Shed

• Service Shed

• Metal & Wood Kit Sheds

• Shed with Firewood Bin

• 85

I Clerestory Studio


This easy~to~blli ld shed is made distinctive by its three cle restory wi ndows on the front s ide. In

addi tion to their unique architectura l effec t, c le res tory windows offe r some practical advantages over standard

windows. First, their posi tion at the top of the building a llows sun light to spread downward over the inte rior

space to maxi mize illumination . Most of the light is

indirect, c reating a soft glo,,\' without the harsh glare of direct sunlight. C leres to ries also save on \va ll space and offer morc privacy and sec uri ty than windO\.vs at eye leve l. These characte ri stics make this s hed design a grea t c hoice for a bac kyard ofll cc, a rtist's studio or

even a re mote spot for the mus ica lly incl ined to get together and jam .

As shown, the Clerestory Studio h" s a lOx 10-ft. floorplan. It ca n be outfitted with double doors th"t open lip to a 5 ft. -wide opening, CI S seen he re. But jf you don 't need a door that la rge, you can pick lip a bout

2 \12 ft. of additiona l (and highly prized) wa ll space by framing the open ing for a 30" wi de door. The studio's striking roofli nc is c reated by two s hed-s tyle roof planes, whic h makes for deceptively casy construction .

The shed's wa lls and floor follow standard

st ick-frame construction. For simp licity, you can fra me the squa re portion s of the lower \,vall s first, then piece in the fmm ing fo r the fOllr ura ke ," Of a ngled , wedl sections. To support the roof rafte rs, the clerestory wa ll has tv/O large headers (beams) that run the fu]1 length of the building. These a nd the door header arc a ll made with standard 2x lumber and a V21! pty\'\Tood spacer.

You can increase the natura l light in you r studioand add some passive solar heating- by including the two optioned skylights. To prevent leaks, be sure to ca refully seal arollnd the glazing a nd the skylight frame. Flashi ng around the fram e will provide an extra meas ure of protection.

S f! ed Projects • 87

Cutting List

Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material

Foundation I S# building paper I roll

Drainage moleriol 1.S cu. yd . Compoctible grovel Shingles 1% squares Asphalt shingles-

Skids 2@10' 4 x 6 pressure-treated 2S0# per sq. min.

landscope timbers Roof flashing 10'-6" Aluminum

Floor Windows

Rim joists 2@10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated Glozing 3 pieces@ 21 x 36" lit -thick acrylic or

Joists 9@10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated polycmbanote glozing

Flam sheathing 4 sheets, Y/ longue-&-groove Window stops S@8' I x 2 cedm

4 x 8' ext.-grode plywood Glozing tope 60 linear ft .

Wall Framing Clem exterim coulk I rube

8ottom plates 4@10' 2 x 4 Door

Top plates, front walls S@IO' 2x4 Panels 2 sheets@4x8' 3/4 M exterior-grade

Top plates, rem wall 2@10' 2 x 4 plywood

Top plates, side walls 6@10' 2 x 4 Panel trim 8@8' I x 4 cedm

Studs, rem wall II @8' 2 x 4 Stops 3@8' I x 2 cedm

Studs, front wall II @8' 2 x 4 Flashing 6 linem ft . Aluminum

(& clerestory wolll Skylights (optional)

Studs, side walls 26@8' 2 x 4 Glozing 2 pieces @ 13 x 22 '11" lit-thick plastic or

Header, above windows 2@10' 2 x 6 polycmbonote glozing

Header, below windows 2@10' 2 x 10 Frome 2@8' I x 4 cedor

Header, dam 2@8' 2 x 6 Stops 2@8' I x 2 cedm

Header & post spocers See Sheathing, below Glozing tope 2S linem ft .

Roof Framing Fasteners & Hardware

Rafters (& blocking) 20@8' 2 x 6 16d galvanized common noils 4 Ibs.

Exterior Finishes 16d common noils 16 r;' lbs.

Side wall fascia 4@8' 2 x 6 1 Od common nails I Ib_

Eave fascia 3@12' 2 x 6 8d galvanized common noils 3 Ibs.

Fascia drip edge 8@8' Ix2 8d box noils 3Y, lbs.

Siding 10 sheets @ 4 x 8' 'Is" Texture I-II 8d galvanized siding noils 7 Ibs.

plywood siding I" galvanized roofing noils Sibs.

Corner 'lim 1O@8' I x 4 cedm 8d galvanized cosing noils 2 Ibs.

Bottom siding trim S@12' I x 4 cedm 1 %" galvanized screws I Ib_

Vents 8 2" ~io . round 2" galvanized screws I Ib_ metal vents Door hinges with screws 6@3 r/,"

Roofing Dam hondle 2 Sheathing 6 sheets @ 4 x 8' Y)" exterior-grade Dam lock (optionoll (& header/post spocers) plywood roof sheathing

88 T H E COMPLETE CUJrJ E TO CONT EMPORARY SHEDS

10 x 10 FRONT ELEVATION

-- 2x6Foscia

- - 1 x 4 Trim boo rd,

I t Clear ploSli( windows

1 x 2 Windows lops

Tl -ll siding or equal -- -- -- --

I I I I I I I I -- -- -- --

Tl -ll siding or equal

1 x 4 Trim boo rd,

/ Grode

10 x 10 REAR ELEVATION

Aspholl shingle

- f- 2 x 6 Fascia w/1)( 2 drip edge

Tl -ll siding or equal

/, 1 x 4 Trim boo rd,

~ 4 x 6 Skid ~

Si!cd Projects 8 9

BUILDING SECTION

II ~ II Ii ding

lell~seal ""'gl" ____ 11# Building

11" Plywood sheeting

2 x 6 Raflers

2 x 4 Bollom plate

I x 2 Drip edge 2 x 6 Fascia Nolch I,· for drip Blocking w/T· diD. venls

g~t--,~~~---- 2 x 4 Top plole

MMI=======:::: 2 ~ 2 x 6 Header wi'" plywood ri T1 -11 siding or equal (typicol)

"-= 0.,

1/ Cleor plastic window I x 2 Window slops w/coulking 2· 2x 4Plotes Flashing 2· 2 x 10 Header Wfi l" plywood 2 x 6 Rohers Opl. skylight

Blocking

x 6 Fascia

x 4 stud ~ 16" O.C

1I · llliding

3/ Plywood floor

~t;;;;;;~;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;*;;~;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;~;;~;j~ 2 x 4 Bollom pi ole

1 x 4 Trim

90 THE COM PLETE CUtrlE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

2 x 6 Floor joist x 4 Trim

4 x 6 Treated skid

Gro yel bed fill (provide for positive drainage)

Nole: Stort on this end

Nole: 5torl on this end

W Plywood sheathing

1 Y, '---4 1 Y';=~

~

~ = 0 ., . ;,.

~

1 Y, '---:l F=

W Plywood sheathing

1 Y,"'---4~

1%"/ i'--

~

'" = 0 = . .., '" ~

~

1 Y,,---; F=

t--ill\" ~

0.(

16" 16" 0.(

WA" 16" 0.(

16" 16" 0.(

16" 0.(

16" 0.(

FRONT FRAMING 10'-1 Y,"

1 '-9" X 9'-OY." Opening

16" 16" O( 0.(

9'-10lll"

16" 16" 0.( 0.(

REAR FRAMING

16" 16" 16" 0.( 0.( 0.(

9' ·10Y,"

1'" 1'" 1'" 0(. 0.( 0.(

16" 16" 0.( 0.(

16" 16" 0.( 0.(

16" 16" 0.( 0.(

16" 16" 0.( O(

- ----

~ t--r-----

r--

V-- 6Y,

8Yt

r--

V-- 6Y,

2 x 4 Top plole

2 -2 x 6 Header w/ Yl" plywood

2· 2x 4Sluds

2 · 2 x 4 Top plol,

2 -2 x 10 Header wi VI" plywood

2 x 6 Rollers 181

2 x 6 Fascia Boord

2· 2 x 4 Top pl'I'

2 x 4 Siuds . 16" 0.(

2 x 4 Bollam plole

2 -2 x 4 Top plole

2 x 4 Siuds . 16" 0.(

Si!cd Projects 91

LEFT SIDE WALL FRAMING

2 x 6 Fascia

11 ·11 sid ing

RAKE DETAIL

Self-seal shingles

1 x 2 Drip edge

2-2 x 10 Header 2x 6

I, S'·SW

I,

DOOR DETAIL

2 ', 6~·

~ ~ ¥t Plywood door lin

~

~ ~ I·

10

Hinge~

ht ;., D f> Handle & latch

'" ~ ~ l x 4Trim /

I [on

92 Til E COM PLETE CU IDE TO CONTEM POHA IW SII EI)S

2x 4 Itud,

2x 4 Tap ploles

2 x 4 Bollom plale

Fascia Boord

2 x 6 Rafter

2x 411Ud

11 ,11 l iding

JAMB/ CORNER DETAIL

2x 41tud

1 x 2 Door slop

r;" Plywood door

Vt Plywood spacer

2, 2x 4ltud,

I x 4 (orner board

2 - 1 x 4 Trim boards, (ul end piece to IiI

11.- Spoce

RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION

1 x 6 Fos(io ------------~

1 x 4 Trim boards-----------i

Tl -ll Siding or equal

2 x 6 Fosdo

Note: Insloll siding on sides after 2 x 6 fascia board is installed ----++------

FLOOR PLAN ~ , • , , , , , \J o.c o.c o.c o.c o.c

16" r 16" r 16" 16" I 16" I

~ +

II

o.c 16" I 16"

v----%" Plywood spocer --;,;::i

;,;::i

;,;::i

~ VI" Plywood flooring

k---- f-- %" Plywood spom

~ ;..

;,;::i 1 x 4 Studs

\ ;, " ;t-.! 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 6*" , , , , , ~ ~ O.C O.C ~ O.C O.C ~ O.C ~ O.C

~ ~

., / /

1£ J

.,; ~ ..

'" =

9 0-

'" $

1===== ) 1===== \ "-'" ..,

;... St: I~

:.:.~ -0

I~

~ -1--1:,

:-

Si!cd Projects 93

RAFTER TEMPLATE (A)

1y,~

(; Jf1.

~ordriP

:I:

4Y1" I 4Y," ,~ 6', Oll"

'f 3V," ,f 4'h"

j: ,

7' · 6V."

RAFTER TEMPLATE (B)

20/4" 4', OVo 40/1" 6'

5' , Ill"

94 T H E CO~ IP LETE CUIDE TO CONT EM PORARY SH EDS

I How to Build the Clerestory Studio

Prepare the foundation site with a 4"-deep layer of compacted gravel. Cut the two 4 x 6 timber skids at 118%". Position the skids on the gravel bed so their outside edges are 118'1/ apart, making sure they are level and parallel with one another.

Install oor sheathing onto the oor frame, starting at the left rear corner of the shed, as shown In the FLOOR PlAN (page 93). Rip the two outer pieces and final corner piece so their outside edges are flush with the sides of the foundation skids.

Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists at 118%". Cut nine 2 x 6 jOists at 115%" . Build the floor frame on the skids and measure the diagonals to make sure the frame is square. Fasten the rim jOists to the skids with 16d galvanized common nails driven toenail style through the joists and into the skids.

Cut the studs and top and bottom plates for the front wall and nail together with 8d common nails. Position the wall on the floor deck and raise It. Fasten It by driving 16d common nails through the sole plate and into the floor deck and frame.

(continued)

Sf!ed Projects • 95

Assemble the back wall framing with a bottom plate and double top plate at 118%" and 82%" studs 16" O.c. Assemble the square portions of the left and right side walls. Attach the back wall and nail the side walls in place.

construct the sloped portions of the side walls. Install them by nailing them to the floor deck with 16d common nails. Also nail the corners to the front wall.


Take measurements to confirm the dimensions for the clerestory wall frame. Build the clerestory frame wall to match the dimensions.

Create the headers by sandwiching a Y/ plywood strip between two 2x dimensional framing members. Assemble the header with deck screws driven through both faces.

Set the main header on top of the sidewall posts and toenail it In place with 16d common nails. The main header ends should be flush with the outsides of the side walls.

Install T1-11 siding on the front wall, starting at the left side (when facing the front of the shed). Cut the siding to length so it's flush with the top of the top plate and the bottom of the floor jOists. Make sure any vertical seams fall at stud locations. Add strips of siding to cover the framing on the clerestory wall. Install siding on the rear wall, starting at the left side (when facing the rear side of the shed).

Lift the clerestory wall frame onto the main header. Orient the wall so it is flush in front and on the ends and then attach it to the main header with 16d nails.

cut one of each "A" and "B" pattern rafters from a single 16-ft. 2 x 6, using the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 94). Both roof planes have a 6-in-12 slope. Test-fit the rafters and make any necessary adjustments, then use the patterns to cut eight more rafters of each type. Install the rafters as shown In the REAR FRAMING and FRONT FRAMING (page 91). Toenail the top ends of the "B" rafters to the main header

(continued)


Frame each of the upper rake walls following the same technique used for gable walls (see page 51). Cut the top plate to t between the clerestory header and the door header (on the right side wall) or the top plate (on the left side wall) . Install four studs in each wall using 16" on-center spacing.

Install' ," plywood roof sheathing, starting at the bottom left side of the roof on both sides of the shed. Run the sheathing to the outside edge of the fascia. Add 1 x 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along all fascia boards, ush with the top of the sheathing.

98 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS

Install 2 x 6 fascia boards ush with the top edges and ends of the rafters. The upper roof gets fascia on all four sides; the lower roof on three sides. Miter the corner jOints if desired. Install siding on the side walls, ush with the bottom of the fascia; see the RAKE DETAIL (page 92.)

Fasten 1 x 2 stops inside the window rough openings, ush with the Inside edges of the framing, using 2" screws.

Set each window panel into its opening, using glazing tape as a sealant. Install the outer stops; see the BUILDING SECTION (page 90). Caulk around the Windows and the bottom outside stops to prevent leaks. Add 2 x 6 blocking (and vents) or screen to enclose the rafter bays above the walls.

Add vertical trim at the wall corners. Trim and ash around the door opening and windows (also see sidebar: Flashing Above Doors & Windows, on page 73). Install ashlng and trim, if desired along the Joint where the lower roof plane meets the clerestory wall.

cut out the bottom plate inside the door s rough opening. Cut the two door panels at 30' ,' x 81". Install 1 x 4 trim around the panels, as shown in the DOOR DETAIL (page 92), using exterior wood glue and 1'''' screws or nails. Add 1 x 2 stops at the sides and top of the rough opening; see the JAMB DETAIL (page 92). Also add a 1 x 4 stop to the back side of one of the doors. Hang the doors With galvanized hinges, leaVing a',' gap all around.

Add 15# building paper and Insta ll the asphalt shingle roo ng. The shingles should overhang the faSCia drip edge by , ," along the bottom of the roof and by 3,' along the sides. Install 1 x 4 horizontal trim boards ush with the bottom of the siding on all four walls.

Finish the interior to your desired level. If you will be occupying the shed for actiVities, adding some wall covering, such as paneling, makes the interior much more pleasant. If you add wiring and wall insulation, the Clerestory Studio can function as a 3-season studio in practically any climate.


I Sunlight Garden Shed

I !U,~ I


This unique, ou~bui lding is part greenho use and part s hed, makmg It perfect for a year-roun d garden

space or backyard sUllroom, Of eve n an art ist's studio. T he front facade is domi nated by \.vindows- foU f

29 X 72" \.vindows on the roof, plu s four 29 X 18" windmvs on the front wa ll. W hen appointed as a greenhouse, two long planting tables in side the shed let you water and te nd to plants without flooding the

floor. [f gardening isn't in your plans, you can omit

the tab les a nd cover the enti re floor with plywood, or perhaps fill in betvveen the floor t imbe rs v,lith pavers or stones.

So me oth er deta il s that make th is lOx 12-ft. shed stand Oll t a re the ho me made Dutc h door, with top and bottom ha lves th at YO LI ca n ope n toget her or inde pen dently, and its traditi o na l saltbox shape. The roof cove ring shown he re consis ts of stan dard asp halt s hingles, but cedar s h ingles make for a ni ce upgrade.

Becct use sunlight plctys a central role in th is shed desion consider the location and orientation carefully.

b'

To avoid shadO\.vs from nearby structures, maintai n a distance between the shed and the structure that's at least 2Vz times the he ight of the obstruction . With a ll of that su nlight, the tem perature inside the shed is another

important consideration. You may wa nt to install some roof vents (see page 58) to re lease hot air and water vapor.

Bu ildi no the Sunliuht Garden Shed involves ct b b

fev,l un conven tional co nstruct ion steps. First, the side \va lls a re fram ed in tv,10 parts: You build the square portion of the e nd wall s fi rst, then move onto the roof framing. Afte r the rafte rs are up , you complete the "ra ke," o r angled, sec tion s of the s ide wa ll s. T h is

makes it easy to measure for each wa ll stud, rat he r tha n having to ca lcu late the lengths beforehand. Secon d , th e shed's 4 x 4 floo r st ructure also serves as its fo undcttion. T he pl ywood floor decki ng goes on afte r the wa lls a re installed, rather thct n befo re.

"!II.! - :IIP" II ,


Cutting List


Foundation/Floor Shingles 2% squares Asphalt shingles -

Foundation bose S (u. yds. [ampactible gravel 250# per sq. min .

& interior drainage beds Windows

Floor joists & blacking 7@ 10' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Glazing 4 pi"es@3I V, x76 '(" V,"-thi(k deor landswpe timbers 4 pi"es@ 31 V, x 20'/," plasti( glazing

4 x 4 blacking I @IO' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Window stops 12@10' 2 x 4 I @8' landswpe timbers Glazing tape 60 linear ft_

80x sills irim joists) 2@ 12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated [lear exterior wulk 5 tubes Nailing deats 2@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Door & 2 x 4 blacking

Trim & stops 3@8' I x 2 "dor Floor sheathing 2 sheets@4 x 8' '/," ext.-grade plywood

Surround 4@8' 2x2"dor Wall Framing

I-flashing 3 linear ft. Bottom plates 2 @ 12', 2 @ 10' 2 x 4 pressure-treated

Plant Tables (optional) Tap plates 4 @ 12', 2 @ 10' 2 x 4

Frant table, tap & trim 6@12' 1 x 6 "dor or Studs 43 @8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Oaor header & jack studs 3@8' 2 x 4 Frant table, plates & legs 4@12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Rafter header 2@ 12' 2 x 8 Reor table, tap & trim 6@8' 1 x 6 cedar or Roof Framing pressure-treated

Rafters - A & [, & nailers 10@12' 2 x 4 Reor table, plates & legs 4@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated

Rafters - 8 & lookouts 10@10' 2 x 4 Fasteners & Hardware

Ridge baord I @14 ' 2 x 6 16d galvanized common noils 5 Ibs_

Exterior Finishes 16d wmman nails 16 Ibs_

Rear fascia I @14 ' I x 6 "dor I Od <amman nails I'/l lbs.

Rear soffi t I @14' I x 8 "dor 8d galvanized <amman nails 2 Ibs_

Gable fa"ia irake baord) 4@ 16' I x 6 "dor 8d galvanized box nails 3 Ibs_ & soffit 10d galvanized finish nails 2'(' lbs. Siding 10 sheets @ 4 x 8' '/," Texture 1-11 8d galvanized siding nails 8 Ibs.

plywood siding 1" galvanized roofing nails 7 Ibs_

Siding flashing 10 linear ft. Metal I-flashing 8d galvanized casing nails 3 Ibs.

Trim* 4@ 12' I x 4 "dor I @12' I x 2 "dor 6d galvanized CDsing nails 2 Ibs_

Wall corner trim 6@8' I x 4 "d" Door hinges with screws 4@3V,' C orrosion·resista nt

Roofing hinges

00" handle Sheathing S sheets@4x8' W' exterior·grade

plywood roof sheathing Sliding bol t lat(h

15# building paper I roll Construction odhesive I tube

Orip edge 72 linear ft. Metal drip edge 'Note: TI,e I X 4 trim. bevel at the bottom of the sloped windaws can be steeper (45° or more) so the trim slopes

cnvay from the window if there is concern that the trim trUlY

capture water mnning dmlln the glazing (see WIN DOW DETAIL, page J08 ).

102 THE COMPLETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

Self-seal shingles over #15 bUilding paper and 1h" exteriorgrade plywood sheathing

h 4 Roher "A: 16" O.C

1-6 Fascia board

I , 8 Soffil

2 x 4 Tie plate

2 x 4 Top plate

2 , 4 Wofl slud, 16" O.C ----'--it-

2'-0" x 38" High polling lobi. w/sh.lf

BUILDING SECTION

1'-4"

2 x 6 Ridge board

2 , 4 Roher "C," 16" O.C

2 - 2 x 8 Headers

2 x 4 Nailer

~~~~~~~========= I x 4 Trim board ~ 2 x 4 Ripped window stops

6' -2¥!"

\4" (lear plastic window

2 - 2 x 4 Rafter MB-

2" x 4" Window stop

2 x 4 Window stop wlW b.vel

I x 4 Trim board

2 x 4 Ripped window stops

Yo" lI ·1I Siidin!I -----j 6' llI" ~F===~==~~~----~----~------~~

\4" Clear plastic window

I x 4 Trim boards

¥!" Plywood flooring

4 x 4 Treated floor i

2>4 Bollom

2 x 4 Nailer

2 , 4 Cripples, 16" O.C

YI" Tl -Il Siding

2 x 4 8ottom plate

4" Gravel bed, compacted

"-------

------4>4

Treated blocking

Si!ed Projects 103

FLOOR FRAMING PLAN

~ \\ ~ f!"" ~ J

/1 '" \ /

2 x 4Boxsili

2 )( 4 Blocking

\ / .,.; /

/ oiling deal " I/~ , Treated 2 )( 4 n

\ '---i \ '-"" /////

4 x 8 Plywood flooring ...---- / /

/ /

4 )( 4 Treated f loor joists

IOIking /

l. compocted

4 )( 4 Trea ted b

. - Grovel bed,

I' -II Y'

LEFT SIDE FRAMING

2 x 6 Ridge boord -----~"i'o-

Rofter · B"

2 • 2 )( Header

8 pocket n

-'"

-------' ,I ',-f-F 2 x 4 Noiler --

3/

V" liepl,le /

Top plate '" ~ ., 2 x 4

2 x 4 :., '---

4 Hooder :el plywood spoce 3' -2!/'"

~6" 3'-7\\" 1 " CUi oul

9'-3)\"

Ponel "D-

\ \ \ \

\

"----

~

2' -0"

16" 16"

1:v."

//'

/ /

//'

2'-0" 2' -0"

1I '-10Y."

;,: ;,:

I"~"~ ..,. := '" '"

, Lo

t--, , '" ~ b...ff "\

2' -0" I'-II Y'

RIGHT SIDE FRAMING

2x 6 Ridge board

~ __ --- R,IIer "A"

~L--------=~0:-:-- R,IIer "8" 2x 4Noiler

2 - 2 x 8 Header pocket

2 x 4

1111'F=lf=='*'==#"5i'lt:::::t Tie plale 2 )( 4

3%" Top plole

~ {~ 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 1\\

3%" 9'-3)\"

Ponel "B"

104 TIl E COMPLETE CU IDE TO CONTEM POHAIW SII EDS

1'·9" R.O. Window siz e

-s. -;-

'" ~

Ie J -= ~ • . ;.,

'" I'

~~ :" -" ~

FRONT FRAMING

6" 1' OVO 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I' OVO 6"

r- -r-r- -

/ /'

LJ. 2x8 V "-- I'--Header

i"-~

p.-~

1\ .1'/," 11 '-lOlA" l V,"

Y 3' -01 y),. 2'-10 Vi,· 2'-10Ylt 3'-01 Yl, " 6" 6"

F Iffi' ~ ~

---1'-1 \14" Cripple size ----

~ t-- -----'" I'·OYO 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I'·OYO -

II '·1 0\\"

REAR FRAMING

6" I' 0%" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I' Oll" 6"

-~ 0 .~ ---~ ~

'" .E -= = -~ = --.,;

f---

'" -

'" ~ '- ;.,

'" 1' -0lit," 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 1'·0)\"

11'·10Vo Panel ~ ( "

2 x 6 Ridge board

2 x 4 Rolter "C," 16" 0.(

2 - 2 x 4 Rofter ~ B H

2 x 4 Nailer

1 x 6 Rake board

2 x 4 Ripped window slops

2 x 4 lookouts @2'·0" 0.(

2 x 4 Tie plate

2 x 4 Top plate

2 x 4 Ripped window slops

2 · 2x411ud

2 x 4 (ripples

2 x 4 Bollom plate

2 x 6 Ridge board

2 x 4 Rolter "A: 16" 0.(

1 x 6 Rake board

2 x 4 lookouts, 2' -0" O.c.

2 x 4 Top plate

2 x 4 Woll slud, 16" O.c.

2 x 4 Bollam plate

S/!ed Projects 105

~ ~

/

~

I'

I I I

Z ~ flOIhing

1 x 6 Fascia board

1 x 4 Trim board

1 x 4 (orner boards

11 ~ II Siding

Grode

FRONT ELEVATION

,7 ,7

----I' I'

III I II

S If-sea l shingles

x 4 Trim board

x 4 Window ops ripped /;;;:

2-~

II y

II~

y, • (lear pi osli( window

~/ I x 4 im board fr: Tr

~ :iI x 4 ler ripped

1 x 4 Tr im board

" I x 4 ( orner boards

~ 1I ~1I Siding

Grode


9 <>

106 T H E CO~ IP LETE CUIDE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

REAR ELEVATION

Self-seal shingles over #15 building paper and Yt" eKlerior plywood sheathing

2 x 4 Rafters, 16" O.C

Melal drip edge

1 x 6 Fascia board

1 x 8 Ripped soffil

SOFFIT DETAIL

2 x 4 Tie pi ole ____ -*_+--1 2 x 4 Top plot. -----It--t----'

1I ~ 1I Siding wi 1 x 4 (orner boards (typ.)

2 x 4 won studs, 16" O.C

S If I h' I - :e-seasmges

1 x 6 Trim board

2x4 (orner boards

1- 1I ~1I Siding

/ Grod.

FRONT & SIDE DOOR CONSTRUCTION

3'-0·

'r '" - r-

~ .' I--'" -------

TI -II Siding

1 x 2 Wood him

2>4

~ ;"

'" ~

~ ~

6· .,- ~ TI -II Siding-t-__ --I-

'" "\ '" ~ 0

~ ~ ~ '" F .. '"

2 x 4 Trim ---+~tI

~ ..- ~ ~ ~-6" 6· 2 x 2 Surround

21" ~ ;" l'l ~

~

'" ~ "\

'"

FRONT & SIDE DOOR CONSTRUCTION (DOOR JAMB, REAR, DOOR HEADER)

2 x 2 Bracing on bockside wi lfi" lop joint

Door pull Provide lotch behind lor

1 x 2 Door slop dutch door

2 x 2 Surround 2 x 4 Dutch door bollom roil

II-II Siding 1 x 2 Door slop

2- 2< 4 2 x 2 Surround Header

3Y1" hinge wi Y!" plywood

1 x 2 Trim TI -II Siding spocer

Bol.lo.th 1 x 2 Trim

'--__________ -' 2 x 4 hallom roil

Si!cd Projects 107

HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL

2-2x4Rofters

Self-seal shingles over #15 building -"""":->,"---",,, paper and Y1" exterior plywood sheathing ---''<-----'>~ Z~flO\hing -~---"'-----',~

12

~12

1 x 4 Trim boor.~d--===:=:::=~;pr:;~~ 2 x 4 Nailer

2 - 2 x 8 Header glued and nOiled'-------ji

2 x 4 Ripped window slop ---------===--.J

IJt Cleor plastic window panel------------"

2 x 4 Ripped window slop with (Dulking--------------'

WINDOW DETAIL

1/." Clear plastic window ponel

2 . 2 x 4 Rafters -~'--

2 x 4 Ripped window slop wi 45° bevel

and caulking ~=====s:~~~~ (aulking (lypi,,11

2 x 4 Tie plate

1 )( 4 Trim board

2 x 4 Top plate

2 )( 4 Ripped window slops with caulking (lypi"I1----J

2 ~ 2 x 4 Woll slud

RAFTER TEMPLATES

31h"

I

'~I 2 )( 4 Rafter -CW

I 3W 1'-7Vi t

r~oy ..

8'·rx· 8'-6%"

211a" -- 2'-' Ylt

l'

~ 1,1 2 Va"

H 2 x 4 Roher . ::, I I

108 THE COMPLETE CUIf)E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

WINDOW SECTION

lit Clear plastic wi ndow panel

2 - 2x4Rofters

2<4 Ripped window slops wi th caulking (lyp.1

1 x 4 Trim boord

TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL

W(I . d 4 eor p osll( Win OW panel \

2 x 4 Ripped window slop \

3' -Olh" 1\ r~ r~O" \

f

'" r '" ~ 2 x 4 lohlelop sluds, 16" O.C f.2: '" '" '" ,;, -=<;:~r ~ ll liding V ~l x 6 lohle hoords

'" 1 )( 6 Trim board 0, 2 )( 4 Top plote ;... 2)(4Le~er _ = 2 x 411u s @ 16" O.C -

szIj - 2 x 4 8o"om plole - , r

;...

\; " ~ Plywood flOOring "". " 4 Gravel bed x 4 Ripped

2 )( 6 Ridge board

2 )( 4 Blocking

2)( 4 Rafter ~ Aff

2 )( 4 Rafter MBff

1 )( 6 Rake board

RAKE BOARD DETAIL

, , , , , , ,

I How to Build the Sunlight Garden Shed

Build the foundation, following the basic steps used for a wooden skid foundation (page 28). First, prepare a bed of compacted gravel. Make sure the bed is flat and level. Cut seven 4 x 4" x 10 ft. pressuretreated posts down to 1151\" to serve as floor JOIsts. PosItion the joists as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Level each jOiSt, and make sure all are level with one another and the ends are flush. Add rim joists and blocking: Cut two 12-ft. 2 x 4s (1421\") for rim joists. Fasten the rim joists to the ends of the 4 x 4 jOists (see the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN) w.h 16d ga",anized common nails.

To frame the rear wall, cut one top plate and one pressuretreated bottom plate (142%"). Cut twelve studs (81 "). Assemble the wall following the layout in the REAR FRAMING (page 105). Raise the wall and fasten it to the rear rim joist and the intermediate joists, using 16d galvanized common nails. Brace the wall in position With 2 x 4 braces staked to the ground.

Cut ten 4 x 4 blocks to fit between the jOists. Install SIX blocks 34'/," from the front rim jOiSt, and install four blocks 31 V/ from the rear. Toenail the blocks to the jOists. All blocks, jOiStS, and sills must be flush at the top.

For the front wall, cut two top plates and one treated bottom plate (142%"). Cut ten studs (35'/.") and eight Cripple studs (13%"). Cut four 2 x 4 window sills (311 Y,,"). Assemble the wall follOWing the layout In the FRONT FRAMING (page 105). Add the double top plate, but do not Install the window stops at this time. Raise, attach, and brace the front wall.

(continued)


cut lumber for the right side wall: one top plate (54' .'1, one treated bottom plate (11 P ,'I, four studs (81 "), and two header post studs (86' "); and for the left side wall : top plate (54' .'1, bottom plate (11 P , '), three studs (81 "I, two jack studs (77','1, two posts (86'.'1, and a built-up 2 x 4 header (39' "). Assemble and Install the walls as shown in the RIGHT SIDE FRAMING and LEFT SIDE FRAMING (page 104). Add the doubled top plates along the rear and side walls. Install treated 2 x 4 nailing cleats to the joists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 104) and BUILDING SECTION (page 103).

construct the rafter header from two 2 x 8s cut to 142','. Join the pieces with construction adheSive and pairs of 10d common nails driven every 24" on both Sides. Set the header on top of the side wall posts, and toenail it to the posts with four 16d common nails at each end.


Trim two sheets of 'J." plywood as needed and insta ll them over the jOists and blocking as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN, leaving open cavities along the front of the shed and a portion of the rear. Fasten the sheets with 8d galvanized common nails driven every 6" along the edges and 8" in the eld . Fill the exposed foundation cavities With 4" of gravel and

compact It thoroughly.

Cut one of each A and B pattern rafters uSing the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 108). Test- t the rafters. The B rafter should rest squarely on the rafter header, and its bottom end should sit ush with outside of the front wall. Adjust the rafter cuts as needed, then use the pattern rafters to mark and cut the remaining A and B rafters.

cut the 2 x 6 ridge board (154%"). Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge and front and rear wall plates following the FRONT FRAMING and REAR FRAMING. Install the A and B rafters and ridge. Make sure the B rafters are spaced accurately so the windows will fit properly into their frames; see the WINDOW SECTION (page 108).

Complete the rake portions of each side wall. Mark the stud layouts onto the bottom plate, and onto the top plate of the square wall section; see the RIGHT and LEFT SIDE FRAMING. Use a plumb bob to transfer the layout to the rafters. Measure for each stud, cutling the top ends of the studs under the B rafters at 45° and those under the A rafters at 30°. Toenail the studs to the plates and rafters. Add horizontal 2 x 4 nailers as shown in the framing drawings.

cut a pattern "C" rafter, test-fit, and adjust as needed. Cut the remaining seven C rafters and Install them. Measure and cut four 2 x 4 nailers (311'1,,") to fit between the sets of B rafters (as shown). Position the nailers as shown In the HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL (page 108) and toenail them to the rafters.

Create the inner and outer window stops from 10-ft-long 2 x 4S. For stops at the sides and tops of the roof windows and all sides of the front wall windows, rip the inner stops to 2%" wide and the outer stops to 1" wide; see the WINDOW SECTION and WINDOW DETAIL (page 108). For the bottom of each roof window, rip the inner stop to 1V/; bevel the edge of the outer stop at 45°.

(continued)


Install each window as follows: Attach inner stops as shown in the drawings, uSing galvanized finish nails. Paint or varnish the rafters and stops for moisture protection. Apply a heavy bead of caulk at each location shown on the drawings (HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL, WINDOW SECTION/DETAIL, TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL). Set the glazing in place, add another bead of caulk, and attach the outer stops. Cover the rafters and stop edges with 1 x 4 tnrn.

Install 1 x 6 fascia over the ends of the A rafters. Keep all fascia v," above the rafters so it will be flush with the roof sheathing. USing scrap rafter matenal, cut the 2 x 4 lookouts (5%" ). On each outer B rafter, install one lookout at the bottom end and four more spaced 24" on center going up. On the A rafters, add a lookout at both ends and two spaced evenly In between. Install the 1 x 6 rake boards (fascia) as shown in the RAKE BOARD DETAIL (page 108).

112 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEMPORA IW SH EDS

Cover the walls with T1-11 siding, starting with the rear wall. Trim the sheets as needed so they extend from the bottom edges of the rafters down to at least 1" below the tops of the foundation timbers. On the side walls, add Z-flashing above the first row and continue the siding up to the rafters.

Rip 1 x 6 boards to 5%" width (some may come milled to 5%" already) for the gable soffits. Fasten the soffits to the lookouts with Siding nails. Rip a 1 x 8 board for the soffit along the rear eave, beveling the edges at 30° to match the A rafter ends. Install the soffit.

Deck the roof with 'j," plywood sheathing, starting at the bottom ends of the rafters. Install metal drip edge, building paper, and asphalt shingles following the steps on page 56. If desired, add one or more roof vents dUring the shingle installation. Be sure to overlap shingles onto the 1 x 4 trim board above the roof windows, as shown in the HEADER & WINDOW DETAIL.

Build each ofthe two door panels using T1-11 siding, 2 x 2 bracing, a 2 x 4 bottom rail, and 1 x 2 trim on the front side; see the DOOR CONSTRUCTION drawings (page 1071. The panels are identical except for a 2 x 4 sill added to the top of the lower panel. Install 1 x 2 stops at the sides and top of the door opening. Hang the doors with four hinges, leaving even gaps all around. Install a bolt latch for locking the two panels together.

construct the planting tables from 2 x 4 lumber and 1 x 6 boards, as shown in the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL and BUILDING SECTION. The bottom plates of the table legs should be flush with the outside edges of the foundation blocking.

Complete the trim details with 1 x 4 vertical corner boards, 1 x 4 horizontal trim above the front wall windows, and ripped 1 x 4 trim and 1 x 2 trim at the bottom of the front wall windows (see the TABLE & LOWER WINDOW DETAIL). Paint the siding and trim, or coat with exterior wood finish .


I Lean-to Tool Bin

The lean-to is a classic outbuilding intended as a

supplemental)' structure for a larger bui lding. Its

silllp le shed-style roof he lps it blend with the ne ighboring

structure and directs \va ter avvay and keeps leaves and

debris from gett ing trapped between the two bu ild ings.

W hen buil t to a sillall shed scale, the lean-to (soilleti llles

called a closet shed) is most useful as an easy-access

storage locker that saves you extra trips into the garage

for often-used lawn and garden tools and supplies.

Th is lean-to tool bin is not actua lly attached to

the hOllse, though it appears to be. I t is designed as a freestandi ng bu ilding \\~th a wooden skid fou ndation that

makes it easy to move. \t\1ith all four sides Il nished, the bin can be placed any'\vhere, but it works best \vhen set next to

a hOllse or garage wall or a tall fence. If you locate the bin


out in the open- where it \\Ion't be protected against \'~nd

and extreme weather- be sure to anchor it securely to the

ground to prevent it from blowing over.

As s hovvn here , the b in is fin ished with asp halt

s h ingle roofi ng, T I ~ I I p ly\,vood sid ing, a nd I X cedar

tri m , bu t you can s u bst itu te any type of fin ish to

matc h or comp lement a neigh boring structure . Its

65"-ta ll doub le doors provide easy access to its 18 sguare feet of Aoor space. T he 8-ft.-ta ll rear wa ll can accommodate a set of shelves while leavi ng

eno ugh roo m below for long- hand le d too ls.

Because the tool bin sits on the ground, in cold

cl imates it will be subject to shift ing with seasonal freeze

thaw cycles. T herefore, do not attach the tool bin to your

house or any other bu ilding set on a frost-proof fou ndation.

Cutting List


Foundation Door trim 2@8' I x 10 545 cedar

Droinage moleria l 0.5 cu. yd. Compoctible gravel 2@6' I x 8 545 cedar

Skids 2@6' 4 x 4 treated timbers (orner trim 6@8' I x 4 545 cedar

Floor framing Fascia 3@6' I x 8 545 cedar

Rim joists 2@6' 2 x 6 pressure-trealed 1@6' I x 4 545 cedar

Joist 3@8' 2 x 6 pressure·treo ted Bug screen 8" x 6' Fiberglass

Floar sheathing I sheet@ 4 x 8 Jf." tongue-g-grnove Doors

ex t.·grade plywood Frame 3@6' 'I. x 3'1," (octuol) cedar

Joist cl ip angles 4 3 x 3 x 3" x 16'gouge Stops 3@6' I x 2 S4S cedar

galvanized Panel material 12@6' I x 6 T&G V'joint

Wall Framing 545 cedar

80ttom plates I @8', 2@6' 2 x 4 I·braces 2@ 10' I x 6 S4S cedar

Top plates I @8', 3@6' 2 x 4 Construction adhesive I tube

Studs 14@8', 8@6' 2 x 4 Interiar trim (optional) 3@6' I x 3 S45 cedar

Header 2@6' 2 x 6 5trap hinges 6, with screws

Header spacer I piece @ 6' 'I, plywood - 5" wide Fasteners

Roof Framing 16d galvanized common nails 3'1, Ibs.

Rafters 6@6' 2 x 6 16d common nails 3'1, Ibs .

ledger* I @6' 2 x 6 lOd (ommon noils 12 nails

Roofing 10d galvanized cosing na ils 20 nails

Rool sheathing 2 sheets@4x8' '/," ext.·grade plywood 8d galvanized box na ils y, lb.

5h ingles 30 sq. ft. 250# per square min. 8d galvanized finish nails 2 Ibs.

Roofing storter strip 7 linear ft . 8d common nails 24 nails

15# bu il ding paper 30 sq. ft . 8d box na ils y, lb.

Metal drip edge 24 linear ft. Galvanized metal 1 W' joist hanger noils 16 nails

Roofing cement I tube %- galvanized roofing noils 'I. lb.

Exterior Finishes 21f2" deck screws 6 screws

Plywood siding 4 sheets@4x8 ' 'I. Texture 1·11 plywood 1%" wood screws 60 screws

siding, grooves 8" O.c. >(-Note: 6-foot m£tlerial is often unavailable at locallulIlber stores, so bu)' half as much of / 2-foot materia/.

116 THE COM PLETE CUJrJE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

FLOOR FRAMING PLAN

5'-10¥," To outsides of joists

~ 2 x 6 '- Treated joists 16" O_L

f---

f---

-;;; :2-. - ~ ::: ~ / 4 x 4

--;- ~ --;-;., ~ '- Treated timber skids

~ 0

/ '" f---- / f---

9 -- ~ 2 x 6 Treated rim joists

ROOF FRAMING PLAN

t t 5' -1 O¥," To outsides of rofters

. -

'--

> Wolilines below

/ / 2x 6

Rofters 16" O_L

/ -2 x 6 Ledger

Si!cd Projects 117

FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT FRAMING ELEVATION

2 x 6 Ledger

-u 2 x 6 Rollers 16" O.L 2 x 6 Rollers,

16" O.L Double 2 x 4 Top plole 2 x 6 ledger

--'Ic--c-2 x 4 Top plole Double 2 x 4

Top plate .,.-

2 -2 x 6 2 x 4 Top plole Header w/Yl"

= c .~

9"':' ~ 4' -9)\" 0 ::,:,u.. j Rough opening

plywood spocer 2 x 4 Siuds, ;;:: 16" O.c. '" ;...

"e 1x 4 :.,

Hallom plate

Y4" Plywood

I------'r ..- -

y." Plywood 2 x 6 Treated joists, 16" O.L

-2 x 6 Treated 4 x 4 Treated joists, 16" O.c. limber skid

4 x 4 Treated limber skid

REAR SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION

-2 x 6 Ledger 2 x 6 ledger ---'--

~ Double 2 x 4

Double 2 x 4 Top plole

Top plole 2 x 6 Rafters 16" O.c.

~ ------2 x 4 Studs, 16" O.c. 2 x 4 Top plate

;;::

~ '" ;...

I / -'-- "

2 x 4 2 x 4 Siuds, $ 16" O.L '" Ballom plole ;...

2x 4 "e :.,

¥t Plywood Ballam plate

y," Plywood

2 x 6 Treated 2 x 6 Treated joists, 16"0.C. joists, 16" O.c.

4 x 4 Treoled 4 x 4 Treated limber skid limber skid

118 T i lE COM PLETE CUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

BUILDING SECTION

1 x 8 FOSdlll - __________ >~

'h" Plywood

Double 2 x 4 Top plate

2 x 6 Rollers, 16" O .C-~_L

I x 4 Foscia

2x 4 Top plale

2· 2 x 6 Header w/Vt" plywood space

2 x 411u dl, JU-------l 16" O.C

VI" Texture I -II plywood siding

y." Plywood

1 x 8 Trim

2 x 6 Treated joist, 16" O.C

4 x 4 Treated limber sk id

I I I II

I IT IT

FRONT ELEVATION

II I I I 11--1

I I TT IT lIT

- f--

-

V /

L---

-l---

V

-

Alphalt shingles

1 x 4 fascia

Ho memade door

1 x 10Trim, ripped 10 IiI

1 x 8 Trim


1 x 8 Fascia

SIDE ELEVATION

12 ~ 6

I x 4 Trim "---tt~+-+_~-ll *" Texlure 1-11 plywood siding

4 x 4 Tr ealeedd~_~=~8L...L-~i-.l-.J timber skid -

l x 8FoS( ia

,L' 1 x 4 Trim

1·11 YI" Texture plywood I iding

led 4 x 4Treo limber ski d

REAR ELEVATION

Slwd Projects 119

WALL PLAN

'~ 5'·IOY' '~

" 4'-9V."

Dimensions

6Vl" to faces 01 studs WI"

SIDE ROOF EDGE DETAIL

Asphalt sh",I,,· _ _

2x 6

VI"

Ys" Plywood siding -_~"

¥I" Plywood siding

1 x 3 Trim (optional)

2 x 411ud

DOOR JAMB DETAIL

16" o.c.---4t~-=l----"C:r;:~J, 1 x 4Trim

'" .., ,.,

1 x 10 Trim ripped 10 size ---f~~==~=~=;tJ'I\~---

Y4" Frame-----------.J

I x 21Iap--------------'


RAFTER TEMPLATE

12 6V f\.\\\\~ J0:

2" 2x 6Roiter

2~a1 'I~- I y."

I I 6W 3Vl"

OVERHANG DETAIL

Aspholl shingles----_ ______ _

15# Building poper------------:

2 x 6 Roher

W Plywood - ___ _

Melal drip edge -..,,"(~

Fiberglass screen @ each raher spo(e

1 x 4 Fascia

2 x 4 Top plate

1 x 8 Trim, notched around rafter toils

DOOR ELEVATION

2'-351a"

--' ;;;-

V /

'" '?

'"

--' c-

OUTIIOE ELEVATION

/ &G I x 6 T V-Joint cedar b oords

I x 6(

Z-broce edor -

2 Doors required

1\\ .J.-\

\

\\ I

INIIOE ELEVATION

I How to Build the Lean-to Tool Bin

prepare the site with a 4" layer of compacted gravel. Cut the two 4 x 4 skids at 70%". Set and level the skids follOWing FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 117). Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists at 70%" and six Joists at 44'1.". Assemble the floor and set It on the skids as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Check for square, and then anchor the frame to the skids with four Joist clip angles (inset photo). Sheath the floor frame with 'I."' plywood.

Fasten the four end studs of each side wall to the bottom plate. Install these assemblies. Construct the built-up 2 x 6 door header at 63%" . Frame and install the front and rear walls, leaving the top plates off at this time. Nail together the corner studs, making sure they are plumb. Install the rear top plates flush to the outsides of the Side wall studs. Install the front top plate in the same fashion .

Cut plates and studs for the walls: Side walls- two bottom plates at 47'1.", four studs at 89", and four studs at 69"; Front wall- one bottom plate at 63%", one top plate at 70%", and four jacks studs at 63%". Rear wall- one bottom plate at 63%", two top plates at 70'1/, and six studs at 89". Mark the stud layouts onto the plates.

cut the six 2 x 6 rafters following the RAFTER TEMPLATE (page 120). Cut the 2 x 6 ledger at 70%" and bevel the top edge at 26S so the overall width is 4'/,,". Mark the rafter layout onto the wall plates and ledger, as shown In the ROOF FRAMING PLAN (page 1171, then install the ledger flush with the back side of the rear wall. Install the rafters.

(continued)


Complete the side wall framing: Cut a top plate for each side to fit between the front and rear walls, mitering the ends at 26.5°. Install the plates flush with the outsides of the end rafters. Mark the stud layouts onto the side wall bottom plates, then use a plumb bob to transfer the marks to the top plate. Cut the two studs In each wall to fit, mitering the top ends at 26.5°. Install the studs.

Add the 1 x 4 fascia over the bottom rafter ends as shown in the OVERHANG DETAIL (page 120). Install 1 x 8 fascia over the top rafter ends. Overhang the front and rear faSCia to cover the ends of the side fascia, or plan to miter all fascia JOints. Cut the 1 x 8 side fascia to length, and then clip the bottom front corners to meet the front fascia . Install the side fascia.


Sheath the side walls and rear walls with plywood siding, keeping the bottom edges %" below the floor frame and the top edges flush with the tops of the rafters. Overlap the siding at the rear corners, and stop it flush with the face of the front wall.

Install the 'Ii' roof sheathing, starting with a full-width sheet at the bottom edge of the roof. Fasten metal drip edge along the front edge of the roof. Cover the roof with building paper, then add the drip edge along the Sides and top of the roof. Shingle the roof, and finish the top edge with cut shingles or a solid starter strip.

Cut and remove the bottom plate inside the door opening. Cut the 1 x 4 head jamb for the door frame at 57%" and cut the side jambs at 64". Fasten the head jamb over the sides with 2W' deck screws. Install 1 x 2 door stops 'I." from the front edges of jambs, as shown in the DOOR JAMB DETAIL (page 120). Install the frame in the door opening, using shims and 10d casing nails.

Staple fiberglass insect mesh along the underside of the roof from each side 2 x 6 rafter. Cut and install the 1 x 8 trim above the door, overlapping the side door jambs about y." on each side (see the OVERHANG DETAIL, page 120).

10

For each door, cut six 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove boards at 63%". Fit them together, then mark and trim the two end boards so the total width is 27%". Cut the 1 x 6 Z-brace boards following the DOOR ELEVATION (page 120). The ends of the horizontal braces should be 1" from the door edges. Attach the braces with construction adhesive and 1%" screws. Install each door with three hinges.

Rip vertical and horizontal trim boards to width, then notch them to fit around the rafters, as shown in the DOOR JAMB DETAIL (page 120). Notch the top ends of the 1 x lOs to fit between the rafters and install them. Add 1 x 8 trim horizontally between the 1 x lOS below the door. Install the 1 x 4 corner trim, overlapping the pieces at the rear corners.


I Convenience Shed

The Convenience Shed is so named for its exceptional versati lity and ample storage space. This classic gabled

outbuilding has CI footprint that measures] 2 x 16 ft. and it includes several features not found in most storage sheds. For starters, its 8·ft.~wide overhead garage door provides easy access for large equ ipment, supplies, projects or even a small au tomobile. The foundation and shed floor is a poured concrete slab, so it's ideal for heavy

items like lawn tractors and stationary tools. To the right of the garage door is a box bay

vv indO\v. This spec ial architectural detail gives the building's facade CI surpri sing house-l ike quality \vhile filling the interior v,lith Ilct tural light. And the bay's 33" -deep x 60"-wide s ill platform is the perfect place fo r he rb pots or an indoor fl ower box. The adjacent wall incl udes a second large winclm·v and a sta ndard service door, making this end of the shed a pleasant, conven ie nt space for all kinds of work or leisure.


Above the main space of the Convenience Shed is a fully framed attic built ",th 2 x 6 joists for supporti ng plenty of stored goods. The steep pi tch of the roof allows for over 3 ft. of headroom LInder the peak. Access to the attic is provided by a drop-down staircase that folds lip and Ollt of the way, leaving the \vorkspace clear helO\v.

The garage door, se rvice door, stai rcase, and both

windows of the shed arc pre-built factory units that you

install follmving the manufacturers' instructions. Be sure

to order aU of the units before starting construction. Th is

makes it easy to adjust the fmmed openings, if necessary, to

match the precise sizing of e(:lch unit. AJso consult your local

buikhng department to learn (:Ibout design requirements

for the concrete foundation. l.'Ou may need to extend ancVor

reinforce the perimeter portion of the slab or include a

footing that extends below the frost line. An extended apron

(as seen in the Gambrel Garage, page 138) is very useful if

you intend to house vehicles in the shed.

Cutting List

Description Quantity/Size Material Description Quantity/Size Material

Foundation Drip edge & gable trim 160 line" ft Ix2ced"

Droinage malerial 2.75 cu. yd. [ompoctible grovel Siding 15 sheets@4x8' 'Is" Texture 1·11

[onerete slob Field measure 3,000 psi concrete plywood siding wi

Mesh 200 sq. ft . 6 x 6", W1.4 x Wl.4 vertiml grooves 8"

welded wire mesh on center (or similar)

Reinforcing bar As required by local code As required by local code Siding flashing 30 line" ft. Metoll-flashing

Overhead do" iambs I @ 10', 2@8' I x 6 ced" Wall Framing

Bottom plates I @ 16', 2 @ 12', 2 x 4 pressure-treated Overhead do" stops 3@8' [ed" do" stop

I@IO' Overhead door surround I @ 10', 2@8' 2 x 6

Top plates 2 @ 14', 4 @ 12', 2 x 4 (orner trim 8@8' Ix4ced" 4@10' Door & window him 4@8', 5@ 10' Ix4cedor

Stond"d wall studs 51 @B" 2 x 4 Box boy bottom trim 1@8' I x 10 ced" *moy use 92%" precut studs Roofing

Diagonal bracing 5@12' I x 4 (std. lumber) Sheathing 14 sheets@4x8' V2" exteriorllrode Jock studs 5@14' 2 x 4 (& hender, stud spocers) plywood roof sheathing

Goble end studs 5@8' 2 x 4 15# building paper 2 mils

Header, overhead door 2@10' 2 x 12 Shingles 4% squares Asphalt shingles -

Header, windows 2@10' 2 x 12 250# per sq . min .

Header, service door I @8' 2 x 12 Roof flashing 10'6"

Header & stud spocers See Sheathing, below Doors & Windows

Box Bay Framing Overhead g"oge door l@ %x %

Holf·woll bottom plate 1@8' 2 x 4 pressure· heated w/hordwore

Holf·woll top plate & studs 3@8' 2 x 4 Service door I unit for 38 x 72 ~B Prehung exterior

mugh opening door unit Joist 3@8' 2 x 6

Window 2uni tsfor57x41%" (osement mullion Window frome 4@12' 2 x 4 window unit-complete Sill plorlorm & top I sheet @ 4 x 8' y,"' plywood Fasteners & Hardware

Rafter blocking I @8' 2 x 8 Holts wlnuts & washers 14 '!,"·dio. x 12"

Roof Framing 16d galvanized common noils 3 Ibs. Rafters 36@10' 2 x 6 16d common noils 15 Ibs. (& lookouts, blocking)

I Dd common noils 2Y, lbs. Ridge board I @18' 2 x 8

8d box noils 16 Ibs. Attic

8d common noils 5 Ibs. Floor iOists 16@12' 2 x 6 8d galvanized siding noils 10 Ibs. Floor decking 6sheets@4x8' v," plywood 1 H galvanized roofing noils 10 Ibs. Staircase I unit for 22 x 48" Disappearing attic

8d galvanized casing nails 3 Ibs. rough opening stair unit

Exterior Finishes Entry door lockset I

Eo" fascia 2@18' 2x8cedor

Goble fascia 4@ID' I x 8 cedor


FOUNDATION PLAN

IS' -IOY'

9%" 7'-10" I' -II ¥'" 4'-6" 9Y{

"" '[ '[ [ '[ I~

~ • • • • . r-C-~ ~ . 1--------------------------,

1 t 1 ?At

~ 2 '"

'" 4" Reinforced (oncrete slob wi 6 x 6 W 2.9 x 2.9 wire mesh over 4" compacted granular fill

. [- Ie"" ~ ~ . :=

'--1%" Typical 10 cenler of %" dia. x 12" anchor bolts

~ ~

'" '"

l _________________________ ~ "~ ~ . • ~Ie '" • • • •

} 4l\" 9' 1" 4y'{l S'-6V' l6" "" ~

FOUNDATION DETAIL BUILDING SECTION

4" Reinforced concrete w/6 x 6 W 2.9 x 2.9 wire mesh over 4" compacted gravel

2 -#4

To extend below 10(01 frost line (12" min. wino frost line)

l~" Typical 10 (enler of %" dio. x 12" anchor bolts

,..,

2 )( 8 Ridge board

VI" Plywood flooring

Disappearing sloirwoy---___

1>6 Trim board

2 x 4 Ballam plate 4" gravel bed, compacted

~ TI-II Siding

"-

2x4 W,II slud

-- ------ '<

II' -lOY. ~

1'-0"

Si!cd Projects 127

Self·" ol'hingles--. r---

Drip edge '" ~

I x 2

2 x S Fascia

(osem enl window

I x 4 Trim -----

e --------S"·wid Overh eod door

11 ·11 Siding -

Grode

r I

I I / I / l __ /

II II

II

II

II


I x 2 D . rip e ge 12

I x sV:;:;

S FOIci, ~ """"f<;", 2Trim ~ ",,:;;"" I x

Z·lIo

(ase wind

, hing .d.:d ~

menl -ow-

I x

Trim 4 '---

I Siding -e--

11 ·1

1/ e -

rete slob

Grad

(one

/.

f',f', ~ I

~ I '---

FRONT ELEVATION

I

I

I

I

1'·6"

I x 4 Trim -

v

Gro) i-1 (oncrele slob

11 ·11 Siding wi grooves, S" o.c.

128 T H E CO~ IPLETE CUIDE TO CONTEM PORA RY SH EDS

rn i; f-

REAR ELEVATION

Self-seal shingles

S"

'- I '- _J

Note: Wiring pions ore optional

- f'

.if!.

WALL FRAMING PLAN

WIOY,"

6' H, Ponel ~ ( " Ponel MB"

2 - 2 x 12 Headers wI V1" plywood belweerr---

Disappearing stair ~ __ .., l' -0'

0q---::~ L. I :...

~II I I GFI I I " I I I L __ --.J

I

~:'''. ~+ I

,Gil I ! / s' x 7' Overhead door -- ~

:I ~ 2' -0" 2' -0" "l'>,

- - - . .

\ 2 -2 x 12 Headers

WP/ GFI,/! , " " " '" , " " " '" , " " " '" .

J+ I, w/W plywood between 5' -0" Panel "G"

9' ·8Va" 6' -2V, " " Ponel E " " Ponel F

l--:t i!;

•

.... < ~ ;:t::~ <=> ~-;;;""7 :::~;::

•

•

'" 1-1-GFI

BACK SIDE FRAMING LEFT SIDE FRAMING

2 x 8 Ridge board

2 x 4 Gable studs

2 x 6 Rafters --r-- /"

12

sV::::

15\\" 16" 16" 16" S" S" 16" 16" 16" 15\\"

9' OY," 6; 3V." r-=- 2 x 4 lYrfl " I' (r lY, Ti. pl,l.

~ '/ 2 x 4 Top plale

~ / 1.4 ~ " ~ f ~ Oi,goo,1 bro<ing

'\ "~ - Siocking b.lween r'\." (orner studs I"" / , ~5 I---- __

,,'- 1'/ I I . - 2 x 4 Wall studs

16" 16 16 16" 16 16 16" 16" 16"16

I Poo.I "S" lE·r

I 2d 11 Va" Bottom pi ole

2 x 4 Tie plole ...............

1.4 T,p pi,

~l T "~ I.-V

11'-1011" \ \

V ~ ,1 / I~~

~~

Id Diogon bracing

1.4 w,n sl uds

1.4 Boltom ,~ I----

11 \\ 16" 16"

~~ 16" 16" 16"

11'-3 l/4" Ponel "D"

+

16" 16" 11 \\

Si!cd Projects 129

-

13Vi"

FRONT SIDE FRAMING

8" lWo" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" ¥o"~W 16"

-~ - -- -~ - - I -I I

16" 16"

JIL ~~

YO" IO" 8"

~ ==

I I I I

1I V

2 x 6 Lookouts, 2' -0" O.C

2 x 8 Ridge board

2 x 6 Rollers

2 x 6 Allie floor joists, 16" O.C --Secondary cui needed for box bay window ~2 ' 4Tieplale

3Y,." F===;;=;;;';;;====:=======;9;c'_"0~"'o"C======~r 3 y," l y," 'r+ 6' 3Y' ,f 'r'r

\

= e ~ ~ ~"] g; -- -;-

~ :",

1% 3W-- i--4Y" 8'2" 4Yo"il

' 2Y{ 9' ·8Y," wi/' .. Ponel E

\'-0" R.O. *

~ * -6 ""7 .... ,., $:

; Ti I ;

;-:::

'" N

16" 16" 16"

6' -2VO" 5Yo"/' . " 4Y1 60/. Ponel F

~

~

------3%"

2 x 4 Top plate

Blocking between corner studs

2- 2x 12 Header wi Y!" plywood spocer

2 x 4 Top plate

2 x 4 Bottom plate

ATTIC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING BOX BAY WINDOW FRAMING

2>6 Allie floor joists, 16"0.C

3V?

n n n - ( )-

n' p.c .0.

2 -2 x 4 Header ----5' -0"

~ R.O, * ~,

2 x 4 Side stud ---- ~

2 x 41i11 plale WI" ,[ 16"t I6"t, 16" ---2 x 6 Extension box

boy joists 5' 0" ~,

'-- Ponel ~ G " 3%"

-- - - -- - - - - -- -

16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" I ¥t 15Y4 16" 16 Va"

6¥t 9Yt


V,. 5' ,,-

. 6 -I' ,. 5 Yo"

I

OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER DETAIL

Self-seal shingles over #15 building paper over I t exlerior grade plywood

2 x 6 Blocking ~:-;-: _______ ~== 2 x 6 Floor joisls, 16" O.c

2 )( 6 Roller, 16" O.C

2 )( 4 TIe plate

2 )( 4 Top plate

1 )( 2 Drip edge

2 )( 8 Fascia

II -II Siding

2 - 2 x 12 Header wi I )"

plywood spocer

2)( 6 Trim

Caulk @ joint

Shim spoce

1 )( 4 Wood trim

1 )( 6 Ripped

Wood door slop' ~===:::~:=:::::=-------:jt~U Overhead door~

OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL

2 )( 6 Surround

Wood door slop

Shim spoce

2 )( 4 Wall stud

I )( 6 Ripped

1 )( 4 Wood trim

Caulk @ joint

6'· JOI ," To lop 01 concrete slob

SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB DETAIL

2)( 4 Tie plate ----t~~~ 2 )( 4 Top plate ----nL;::o,.J 2- 2x 12 Header W/ll" plywood spocer

II -II Siding--__ +

Caulk @ joint

Shim spoce

1 )( 4 Wood trim

1 )( 6 Ripped

Wood slop

-'-'-'v'llL==~ Shim spoce

I Service door {

~j=i=~~:;~S~~~~t/::::~ WOOd door slop l I ll -II Siding I dRipped

2 )( 4 Wall stud

Caulk @ joinl 1 x 4 Wood Irim

Si!ed Projects 13 1

RAFTER TEMPLATE

9' -2Y," l V." 8' -IO Yl"

l' ·9Ya"

Secondary wt for rafters over box bay window only

1%"

BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL

Sell-seal shingles over #15 building paper over %" exterior-grade plywood

2 x 6 Blocking

2 x 6 Rafters, 16" O.c.

2 x 6 Allie floor joists, 16" O.c.

2 x 4 Tie plate

2 x 4 Top plate

spacer I x 2 Drip edge 2 x8 Foscio

2 x 2 Nailer %" 1

2 x 411ud

2 x 41ill plate

2 x 68ay extension j

I' x 10' Ripped to

t 6' -8Y&"

10/1,"

132 THE COM PLETE CUtrlE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

2x6Ralter /1 l Ya"

2>4 Gable studs @16'

1 x 4 Diagonal bracing

2 x 4 Wall studs, 16' O.C

4" Reinforced conuete slo b over 4" compacted granular lill

CORNER DETAIL

Optional V," gypsum board

JI·lI liding

2 x 4 Wall studs

II interior finish "u";:-::,,j is used, -~~~~====J add2 x 4slud

1 x 4 (orner trim

Blocking between corner studs

(aulk @ joint

ISOMETRIC

,---------2 x6 Allie floor joists, 16' O.C

,-----2 x 8 board

x 6 Lookouts, 2'·0' O.C

2 x 4 lill plale

Yl" Plywood

2 x 6 Joists

I How to Build the Convenience Shed

Build the concrete foundation using the specifications shown In the FOUNDATION DETAIL (page 127) and following the basic procedure on pages 36 to 39. The slab should measure 190%" x 142%". Set the 14 J-bolts into the concrete as shown in FOUNDATION PLAN (page 127). Note: All slab specifications must comply with local building codes.

Frame the back wall(s) following the BACK SIDE FRAMING (page 129). use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate, and nail it to the studs with galvanized 16d common nails. All of the standard studs are 92%" long. Square the wall, then add 1 x 4 let-in bracing.

Snap chalk lines for the bottom plates so they will be flush with the outside edges of the foundation . You can frame the walls In four continuous panels or break them up Into panels "p;' through T', as shown in the WALL FRAMING PLAN (page 129). we completely assembled and squared all four walls before ra ising and anchoring them.

Raise the back wall and anchor It to the foundation J-bolts with washers and nuts. Brace the wall upright. Frame and raise the remaining walls one at a time, then tie all of the walls together with double top plates. Cover the outside of the walls with T1-11 siding.

(continued)


Cut fifteen 2 x 6 attic floor joists at 142%". Cut the top corner at both ends of each JOist: Mark FI,' along the top edge and "/'o" down the end; connect the marks, then cut along the line. Clipping the corner prevents the jOist from extending above the rafters.

Cover the attic floor with Vi' plywood, fastening it to the jOists with 8d nails.


Mark the joist layout onto the wall plates following the ATIlC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING (page 130). Leave 3'1/' between the outsides of the end walls and the outer jOists. Toenail the jOists to the plates with three 8d common nails at each end. Frame the rough opening for the staircase with doubled side JOists and doubled headers; fasten doubled members together with pairs of 10d nails every 16". Install the drop-down staircase unit following the manufacturer's instructions.

Use the RAFTER TEMPLATE (page 132) to mark and cut two pattern rafters. Test-flt the rafters and adjust the cuts as needed. Cut all (24) standard rafters. Cut four special rafters with an extra blJd's-mouth cut for the box bay. Cut four gable overhang rafters- these have no bird's-mouth cuts.

cut the 2 x 8 ridge board at 206%". Mark the rafter layout on the ridge and wall plates as shown in the FRONT SIDE FRAMING (page 130) and BACK SIDE FRAMING (page 129). Frame the roof following the steps on pages 48 to 51. Install 6%"-long lookouts 24" on center, then attach the overhang rafters. Fasten the attic Joists to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.

construct the 2 x 4 half-wall for the intenor apron beneath the box bay: Cut two plates at 60" (pressure-treated lumber for bottom plate); cut five studs at 32Yi'. Fasten one stud at each end, and space the remaining studs evenly in between. Mark a layout line 12" from the inside of the shed's front wall (see the BUILDING SECTION page 127). Anchor the half-wall to the slab using masonry screws or a powder-actuated nailer.

Mark the stud layout for the gable end walls onto the end wall plates following the SIDE FRAMING (page 129). Transfer the layout to the rafters, using a level. Cut each of the 2 x 4 studs to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5°. Install the studs flush with the end walls.

Cut six 2 x 6 joists at 36W. Toenail the joists to the Inner and outer half-walls follOWing the layout in the BOX BAY WINDOW FRAMING (page 130); the joists should extend 15" past the outer shed wall. Add a 6O"-long 2 x 4 sill plate at the ends of the JOiStS. Cut two 2 x 4 side studs to extend from the sill plate to the top edges of the rafters (angle top ends at 33S), and install them. Install a built-up 2 x 4 header between the Side studs 41%" above the sill plate.

(continued)


Install a 2 x 2 nailer W' up from the bottom of the 2 x 4 bay header. Cover the top and bottom of the bay with W' plywood as shown in the BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL. Cut a 2 x 4 stud to fi t between the plywood panels at each end of the 2 x 4 shed wall header; fasten these to the studs supporting the studs and the header.

Add 2 x 8 fascia to the ends of the rafters along each eave so the top outer edge will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Cover the gable overhang rafters with 1 x 8 fascia. Add 1 x 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along the eaves and gable ends so it will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing.

136 • THE COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS

Bevel the side edge of the 2 x 6 blocking stock at 33.5°. Cut individual blocks to fit between the rafters and attic jOists, and install them to seal off the rafter bays; see the OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER (page 131). The blocks should be flush with the tops of the rafters. Custom-cut 2 x 8 blocking to enclose the rafter bays above the box bay header; see the BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL.

Add Z-flashing above the first row of siding, then cut and fitT1-11 siding for the gable ends. Cover the horizontal seam with 1 x 4 trim snugged up against the flashing.

TO complete the trim details, add 1 x 2 along the gable ends and sides of the box bay. Use 1 x 4 on all vertical corners and around the windows, service door, and overhead door. RIp down 1 x 10s for hOrizontal trim along the bottom of the box bay Also cover underneath the bay JOists with Vi' exteriorgrade plywood.

Install the two windows and the service door following the manufacturers' instructions. Position the jambs of the units so they will be flush with the siding, if applicable. Install the overhead door, then add stop molding along the top and side jambs; see the SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB.

Rip-cut 1 x 6 boards to 4 W' wide for the overhead door jambs. Insta ll the jambs using the door manufacturer's dimensions for the opening. Shim behind the jambs If necessary Make sure the jambs are flush with the inSide of the wall framing and extend %" beyond the outside of the framing. Install the 2 x 6 trim as shown In the OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER and OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB.

Install' ," plywood roof sheathing, starting at the bottom ends of the rafters. Add building paper and asphalt shingles following the steps on pages 55 to 57.


I Gambrel Garage

Fallowing classic barn des igns , this 12 x ] 2-ft.

garage-size storage shed has severa l features that

make it a versatile stomge shed or \<\'orkshop. The garctge's I 44-squa re-foot floor is a poured concrete

slab v.lith a thickened edge that allmvs it to serve as the huildi ng's foundation. Designed fo r economy and durab ili ty, the floor can easily support heavy mac hinery, woodworking tools, and rec reational veh icles .

The garage's sectional overhead door makes for qUick access to equip ment and supplies and provides ple nty of air and natural light for \,vorlGng inside. The door opening is sized for an 8-ft.-wide x 7-ft.-tall door, but you ca n buy

any size or style of door YOll like- just make your door

selection be fore YOLI start framing the garage. Another important design feature of th is building

is its gambrel roof, which maximizes the usable interior

space (see Sidebar next page). Beneath the roof is a

sizeable storage attic with 3 J 5 cubic feet of space and

its own double doors above the garage door. Note: we added a patio section to the front of this shed. 17J.is

optional slab will appear throughout the how-to photos.

138 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS

The Gambrel Roof ~

The gambrel roof is the defining feature of two structures in American architecture: the barn and the Dutch Colonial house. Adopted from earlier English buildings, the gambrel style became popular in America during the early 17th century

and was used on homes and farm buildings throughout the Atlantic region. Today, the gambrel roof remains a favorite detail for designers of sheds, garages, and carriage houses.

The basic gambrel shape has two flat planes on each side, with the lower plane sloped much more steeply than the upper More elaborate versions Incorporate a flared eave, known as a "Dutch kick," that was often extended to shelter the front and rear facades of the bUilding. Barns typically feature an extended peak at the front, sheltering the doors of the hayloft. The main advantage of the gambrel roof is the Increased space underneath the roof, providing additional headroom for upper floors In homes or extra storage space in outbuildings.

Sf!ed Proj ects • 139

Cutting List


Foundation Roofing

Droinoge material 1.7 5 cu. yds. (ompactible grovel Roof sheothing 12 sheets@4x8' '/," plywood

(oncrete slob 2.5 cu. yds. 3,000 psi concrete Shingles 3 squares 250# per squore (min.) Mesh 144 sq. fl. 6 x 6", Wl.4 x Wl.4 15# building poper 300 sq. fl.

welded wire mesh Metol drip edge 2@14 ',2@12' Golvonized metal Wall Framing Roof vents (optional) 2 units Bottom plotes 4@12' 2 x 4 pressure-treated Window Top plates 8@12' 2 x 4 Frame 3@6' l\ x 4" (actual) S4S cedor Studs 47@92'1s" 2 x 4

Stops 4@8' I x 2 S4S cedor Heoders 2@10',2@6' 2 x 8

Glozing tope 30 lineor ft. Header splicers I @9', I @6' '/," plywood -)" wide

Gloss 1 piece - field measure 1;'" clear, tempered Angle broces I @4' 2 x 4

Exterior trim 3@6' I x 4 S4S cedor Gable Wall Framing

Interior trim (optional) 3@6' I x 2 S4S cedor Plates 2@10' 2 x 4

Door Studs 7@10' 2 x 4

Frame 3@8' I x 6 S4S cedor Heoder 2@6' 2 x 6

Door sill I @6' I x 6 S4S cedor Header splicer I @S' '/," plywood-S" wide

Stops I @8', 1@6' I x 2 S4S cedor Attic Floor

Ponel material 4@8' I x 8 T&G V-joint Joists 10@12' 2 x 6 S4S cedor Floor sheothing 3 sheets@4x8' Y/ tongue-&-groove Door X-broce/panel trim 4@ 6', 2@ 8' I x 4 S4S cedor

ext.-grode plywood Exterior trim I @8', 1@6' I x 4 S4S cedor

Kneewall Framing Interior trim (optional) I @8', 1@6' I x 2 S4S cedor

Bottom plotes 2@ 12 ' 2 x 4 StTOP hinges 4

Top plates 4@ 12' 2 x 4 Garage Door

Studs 8@ 10' 2 x 4 Frame 3@8' I x 8 S4S cedor

Nailers 2@ 14 ' 2 x 8 Door I @ 8' x 6' -8" Sectional flush door

Roof Framing w/2" trock Rafters 28@ 10' 2 x 4 Roils 2@8' 2 x 6 Metol anchors - rafters 20, with nails Simpson H2_S Trim 3@8' I x 4 S4S cedor (ollor ties 2@6' 2 x 4 Fasteners Ridge boord I @14' 2 x 6 Anchor bolts 16 %- x 8", with washers lookouts I@IO' 2 x 4 & nuts, golvonized Soffit ledgers 2@ 14' 2 x 4 16d golvonized common nails 2 Ibs .

Soffit blocking 6@8' 2 x 4 16d common nails 17 Ibs.

Exterior Finishes 10d common nails 2 Ibs.

Plywood siding 14 sheets@4x8' 'Is" Texture I-II plywood, 10d golvonized cosing nails I Ib_ grooves 8" 0_ C. 8d (ommon nails 3 Ibs.

I-flashing -siding 2 pieces@ 12' Golvonized 18-gouge 8d golvonized finish nails 6 Ibs. Horizontal wall trim 2@12' Ix4cedor 8d box nails 6 Ibs. Corner trim 8@8' Ix4cedor 6d golvonized finish nails 20 noils Fascio 6@ 10', 2@8' Ix6cedor 3d golvonized box noils '/, lb. Subloscio 4@8' I x 4 pine Va" golvonized roofing nails 2'/' Ibs. Plywood soffits I sheet@ 10' Ys" cedor or fir plywood 2112" deck screws 24 screws Soffit vents 4@4xl2" louver w / bug screen 1%" wood screws 48 screws I-flashing - goroge door I @IO' Golvonized 18-gouge (onstruction adhesive 2 tubes

Silicone-latex coulk 2 tubes

140 T H E COM PLETE CU JrJ E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

BUILDING SECTION

S' ·ll¥t 1 '-6 Y." 2 x 6 Ridge

~~~~~;;~~-==j==t== 2 x 4 (oliar, 32' 0.(. ~: ,~--t----lr--- yt Plywood roof sheathing

~ ... --I---f---;7 2 x 4 Roher, 16" 0.(.

1'::----=t===T=7~::::::~-------------=::::i~F-b_L:..- Double 2 x 4 lop plales

2 x 8 Nailer

~:---~l--"i-AfJ~Jj============:;;;=!±:::~f==- 2 x 4 Studs, 16' 0.(. -"I~---+c--'------++I i*--------------.::,.,<----=""-~-_j;i.~-- 2 x 4 Soltom plole, set on joists

*" Plywood, set between ploles

1 x 6 Fascia

2 x 6 Joists, 16" o.c

Double 2 x 4 lop ploles

2 . 2 x 8 Header wi Yl" plywood spacer

Texture 1-11 plywood siding

..::~==k~===~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~§~=~: 2 x 4 Studs, 16" 0.(. 3%" Concrete slab on-grade

4" Compacted grovel

Si!cd Projects 14 1

FLOOR PLAN

I' I'

-r.-

8' x 6' -8" Garage door

Roof lines shown dashed

2 x 4 Studs 16" O.c.

31h" Floaling concrete slob on-grade wi 6 x 6' ~ 10/10W~W.M.

I' I' , : ... _ .. --- _.- --~.-- .- --- --- _.- --- --- _.- --- --- _. --- --- --- -- ------- --- --- --- .- .... - --- _.- -- ----

2' ·0" Rough opening

S' O"

12'·0"

Dimensions are 10 outside faces of studs

142 Tt~t E CO~ tP LETE CUtD E TO CONT EM PORA RY SHEDS

2'·0"

RAFTER TEMPLATES

1 x 4 Rafter----\-

11

1 x 4 Rafter

11

Rool slope

Rool slope 6

14

4-1Yo"

-+J-Si!cd Projects 143

FRONT ELEVATION LEFT SIDE ELEVATION

Roof venl

Double door-see detail

1 x4 Trim Asphoh shingles

1 x 6 Fascia

I Pork chop

Flashing 1 x 6 Fascia 1 x 4 Trim,

1 x 4 Trim/-mitered corners mitered corners

Texture ]·11 plywood siding Texture 1-11 -

Flush overhead ~Iywood S:d~ garage door I X 4Trim ~~ 1 x 4 Trim

Window with 14" dear tempered gloss

REAR ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION

12 Asphoh shingles 617

1 x 4 Trim

1 x 6 Fascia 1 x 6 Fascia

1 x 4 Trim, 1 x 4 Trim mitered corners

Texlure 1·11 plywood siding Texture 1·11

plywood siding

144 THE COMPLETE CUJrl E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL

Asphalt shingles over 15# building paper

W Plywood

Melal drip edge

2x 4 Overhang ralters

1 x 6 Fascia 2

2 x 4 Rofter

¥a" Plywood soffit

2 x 4 Lookouts 16" 0.(.

Texture ]-11 plywood siding

2 x 4 Ilud 16" 0.(.

S"

EAVE DETAIL

4

Anchors @ each rafter

Asphalt shingles over 1 S# building paper

V{ Plywood

2x4Roiter

2 x 4 Ilud 16" 0.(.

2 x 4 Soffillroming

Melal drip edge

1 x 4 Subfosdo

1 x 6 Fascia

,U---\---tlfH---2 x 4 loffilledger

Soffit venl

'-------- Y," Plywood soffit

'---------I"lure 1·11 plywood siding

GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS

Overhang rohers 01 front & reor (side view)

w

S' ~ ~-;:::'r==:>'=--'

rafter 01 IranI (lop view)

SILL DETAIL

2 x 4 Ilud ----------,


V," Anchor boll, S" long, 4' ·0" 0.(. mox . 6" from corner

3%" (oncrele slob-on-grade. wi 6 x 6" -Wl.4 x Wl.4 W.W.M.

4" Compocted grovel S"

~, 4

Grode

S/!ed Projects 145

ATTIC DOOR ELEVATION

ATTIC DOOR JAMB DETAIL

1 x 2 Trim

*" Frome

,.." Boord door wi 1 x 4 broce

'- \4"

I x 4Trim

Texture I-I! plywood siding

ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL

I x 2110p

..J~t-Il-+_- l x 6 Frome, ripped to IiI

T&G 1 x 8 door ponel

"""§2ll!§"""~~l---titl-- *" Plywood ~1.,II--I--I1t:r-- 2 x 6 Allie joists 16" 0,(.

1 x 4 Door slile & roil

Iloped sill cui from 1 x 6 cedar

If," x Vi" Drip edge

1 x 4Trim

_--lIl--- 2 x 4 Ilud

~_-- Texture 1·11 plywood siding

146 THE COM PLETE CUIf)E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

1 x 4 Boards glued and mewed 10 1 x 8 boards

I x 8 T&G V-JT boards

Slrop hinge

GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL

2 Sectional garage door

2x 6 Roil

I x 6 Full-depth fro me

1 x 4 Trim


WINDOW JAMB DETAIL

CuI slope • lor drainOge\

~ ~===='t;-y .. 1 x 2 Redwood slop 01 window sill

1 x 2 Trim

1 x 2SIop

Glozing lope, both sides

Sloped slop @ still

1ft (Ieor gloss, tempered

I x2110p

1 x 4 Trim

'--------- Texture \-11 plywood siding

FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION

4' -11 1ft"

Rough opening

Gohle . 011 top plote

2 - 2 x 6 ~--~~~~~~==~~~ Header W/Yl" plywood spocer

2 x 6 Ridge

Oouhle 2 x 4 stud under ridge

2 x 4 Rafters

2 x 4 :'-2 1X~4~lt~Ud~'~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.~ Angle broce, ~ g. installed @ 450

'7 2-2x 8 Co 1> 9 ~ :.:. Header w/'h" ~ plywood spocer ;., 2 x 4 Itud,

----'t-+:'lsC=========~16" O_C

I I ~ f

2x 4Treoted

'" ..

-"-''----''--+-____ ,--''---''----____ ----->1_ f2':'-!!."--+~ bollom plole 0' 2' -0",., S' -O" _'_' Rough opening

REAR FRAMING ELEVATION

12 6 v::

2x 6Ridge

Double 2 x 4 stud under ridge

2 x 8 Nailer

1'-.:>.".------ Gohle .011 lop plole

2 x 4 Rafters

Soffit blocking

2x 4 Soflitledger

Douhle 2 x 4 lop ploles

2 x 4 Studs 16" O_C

2 x 4 Treated hallam plole

LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION

2 x 6 R'd

'~ 2 x 4( 32" 0,(

2x SN

~lIor lie -

oiler

2x 4R oilers ........., ----.:

2 x 6 J OiSIS~ '--

Douhle top plot

2x 4 lollitle

2x 4 os

dger /

S Hooder V

-----

/ Iywood 'poeer / f-- -----

Douhle

2x 41 16" 0,(

;:Sv tud

reoted 2 x 4 T bollom plole

RI :]

f- :" '" ~ ;;:

RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION

2 x 6 R'd I ge

liar lie,

2 x Ho 16" O_C ~ 2 x 4 (0 32" D,C

oilers 2x 4R

2x SN

2 x 6 Jo

2x 4 lollitle

oiler

isis

Douhle 2 lop plole

d~V x4 , 2 x 41t 16" O_C ~

eoted 2 x 4 Tr bollom plole

14' -0" Ridge length

--

t ./

f--

f- --

Si!cd Projects 147

I How to Build the Gambrel Garage

Build the slab foundation at 144" x 144", following the steps on page 36. Set I-bolts into the concrete 1%" from the outer edges and extending 2y," from the surface. Set a bolt 6" from each corner and every 48" in between (except in the door opening). Let the slab cure for at least three days before you begin construction.

construct the built-up 2 x 8 headers at 99" (garage door) and 63" (window). Frame, install, and brace the walls with double top plates one at a time, following the FLOOR PLAN (page 142) and ELEVATION drawings (page 144). use galvanized nails to attach the studs to the sale plates. Anchor the walls to the I-bolts In the slab with galvanized washers and nuts.


Snap chalk lines on the slab for the wall plates. Cut two bottom plates and two top plates at 137" for the sidewalls. Cut two bottom and two top plates at 144" for the front and rear walls. Use pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates. Cut 38 studs at 92%", plus two jack studs for the garage door at 78W and two window studs at 75W'. Note: Add the optional slab now, as desired.

Build the attic floor, Cut ten 2 x 6 joists to 144" long, then clip each top corner with a 1W-long, 45 0 cut Install the jOists as shown In the FRAMING ELEVATIONS, leaving a 3Yi' space at the front and rear walls for the gable wall studs. Fasten the JOists with three 8d nails at each end.

Frame the attic kneewalls: Cut four top plates at 144" and two bottom plates at 137". Cut 20 studs at 26%" and four end studs at 33%". Layout the plates so the studs fall over the attic JOiStS. Frame the walls and install them 18Va" from the ends of the joists, then add temporary bracing. Option: You can begin building the roofframe by cutting two 2 x 8 nailers to 144" long Fasten the nailers to the kneewalls so their top edges are 32%" above the attic jOists.

Mark the rafter layouts onto the top and outside faces of the 2 x 8 nailers; see the FRAMING ELEVATIONS.

Cover the attic oor between the kneewalls with %" plywood. Run the sheets perpendicular to the joists, and stop them flush with the outer joists. Fasten the flooring with 8d ring-shank nails every 6" along the edges and every 12" In the field of the sheets.

Cut the 2 x 6 ridge board at 168", mitering the front end at 16°. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge. The outer common rafters should be 16" from the front end and 8" from the rear end of the ridge.

(continued)


Use the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 143) to mark and cut two upper pattern rafters and one lower pattern rafter Test-fit the rafters and make any needed adjustments. use the patterns to mark and cut the remaining common rafters (20 total of each type). For the gable overhangs, cut an additional eight lower and six upper rafters following the GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS (page 145).

Snap a chalk line across the sidewall studs, level with the ends of the rafters. Cut two 2 x 4 soffit ledgers at 160" and fasten them to the studs on top of the chalk lines, with their ends overhanging the walls by 8". Cut 24 2 x 4 blocks to fi t between the ledger and rafter ends, as shown in the EAVE DETAIL (page 145). Install the blocks.


Install the common rafters; then reinforce the joints at the knee walls with framing connectors. Also nail the attic joists to the sides of the floor rafters. Cut four 2 x 4 collar ties at 34", mitering the ends at 26.5" . Fasten them between pairs of upper rafters, as shown in the BUILDING SECTION (page 141) and FRAMING ELEVATIONS.

Frame the gable overhangs. Cut 12 2 x 4 lookouts at 5" and nail them to the inner overhang rafters as shown in the LEFT and RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATIONS. Install the inner overhang rafters over the common rafters, using 10d nails. Cut the two front (angled) overhang rafters; see the GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS. Install those rafters; then add two custom-cut lookouts for each rafter.

TO complete the gable walls, cut top plates to fit between the ridge and the attic kneewalls. Install the plates flush with the outer common rafters. Mark the stud layout onto the walls and gable top plate; see the FRONT and REAR FRAMING ELEVATIONS. Cut the gable studs to fit and install them. Construct the built-up 2 x 6 attic door header at 62Y;'; then clip the top corners to match the roof slope. Install the header with jack studs cut at 40%".

Mill a ','-wide x ' ."-deep groove into the 1 x 6 boards for the horizontal fascia along the eaves and gable ends (about 36 linear ft.); see the EAVE DETAIL. Use a router or table saw with a dado-head blade to mill the groove, and make the groove 'is" above the bottom edge of the fascia.

Install siding on the walls, holding it 1" below the top of the concrete slab. Add Z-flashing along the top edges, and then continue the siding up to the rafters. Below the attic door opening, stop the siding about %" below the top wall plate, as shown in the ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL (page 146). Don't nail the siding to the garage door header until the flashing IS installed (Step 20)

Install the 1 x 4 subfascia along the eaves, keeping the bottom edge flush with the ends of the rafters and the ends flush with the outsides of the outer-most rafters; see the EAVE DETAIL. Add the milled fascia at the eaves, aligning the top of the groove with the bottom of the subfascla. Cut fascia to wrap around the overhangs at the gable ends but don't install them until Step 17.

(continued)

Sf!ed Projects ' 151

7

Soffit panel '\

Soffit panel

Soffit ledger

Add fascia at the gable ends, holding it up)/," to be flush with the roof sheathing. Cut soffit panels to fit between the fascia and walls, and fasten them with 3d galvanized nails. Install the end and return faSCia pieces at the gable overhangs. Enclose each overhang at the corners with a triangular piece of grooved fascia (called a pork chop) and a piece of soffit material. Install the soffit vents as shown in the EAVE DETAIL.

Cover the Z-flashing at the rear wall with horizontal 1 x 4 trim . Finish the four wall corners with overlapping vertical 1 x 4 trim. Install the 2 x 6 ralls that will support the garage door tracks, following the door manufacturer's instructions to determine the sizing and placement; see the GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL (page 146).


Sheath the roof, starting at one of the lower corners. Add metal drip edge along the eaves, followed by building paper; then add drip edge along the gable ends, over the paper Install the asphalt shingles (see page 56) . Plan the courses so the roof transition occurs midshingle, not between courses; the overlapping shingles will relax over time. If desired, add roof vents (page 58).

20

For the garage doorframe, rip 1 x 8 trim boards to width so they cover the front wall siding and 2 x 6 rails, as shown in the GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL. Install the trim, mitering the pieces at 22S. Install the 1 x 4 trim around the outside of the opening, adding flashing along the top; see the FRONT ELEVATION (page 144).

Install the garage door in the door opening, following the manufacturer's directions.

For the attic doorframe, rip 1 x 6s to match the depth of the opening and cut the head jamb and side jambs. Cut the Sill from full-width 1 x 6 stock; then cut a kerf for a drip edge (see the ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL). Fasten the head jamb to the side jambs and install the sill at a 50 slope between the side jambs. Install the doorframe using shims and 10d casing nails. Add shims or cedar shingles along the length of the sill to provide support underneath. The front edge of the frame should be flush with the face of the siding. Add 1 x 2 stops at the frame sides and top, '(." from the front edges.

Build the window frame, which should be Y/ narrower and shorter than the rough opening. Install the frame using shims and 10d galvanized casing nails, as shown in the WINDOW JAMB DETAIL (page 146). Cut eight 1 x 2 stop pieces to fit the frame. Bevel the outer sill stop for drainage. Order glass to fi t, or cut your own plastic panel. Install the glazing and stops, using glazing tape for a watertight seal. Add the window trim.

Build the attic doors as shown in the ATTIC DOOR ELEVATION (page 1461. using glue and 1 %" screws. Each door measures 28W' x 38", including the panel braces. Cut the 1 x 8 panel boards about y." short along the bottom to compensate for the sloping sill. Install the door with two hinges each. Add 1 x 4 horizontal trim on the front wall, up against the doorsill; then trim around both sides of the doorframe. Prime and paint as desired.


I Simple Storage Shed

The name of this practical outbuilding says it a ll. It's an easy-to-bui ld, sturdy, 8 x 10-ft. shed with plenty

of storage space. \,Vith no \vindows it also offers good security. The clean, symmetricu ] in te rior and centra lly located double doors make for easy access to your stuff. T he \.va lls are ready to be lined \.vith util ity shelves, and you can qu ickly add a ramp to simp lify parking the lawnmowcr, wheelbarrow, and other yard equipment.

This shed is indeed bas ic, but it's also a nicely

proportioned bu il ding with arc hi tecturally appropriate fe<:ltures l ike overhanging eaves and just enough trim

to give it a qua lity, hand- built appear<:lllce. \Vithout getti ng too feln ey- reme mber, s impl icity is the cen tral des ign idea- you might consider fi ni shi ng the exterior walls and roof of the shed with the same materials used on you r house. T his casy modification visua lly integrates the shed \A/ith the rest of the prope rty


and provides a custom look that you can't get with kit buildings.

Ins ide the shed, YOLI ca n maximize storClge space by build ing an attic: Insta ll full-length 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 joists (which a lso serve as rafter t ies) a nd cover them \vit h Y2 1! ply\vood. Include one or more framed- in access openings t hat you ca n easily reach with a step ladder. T his type of storage space is ideal for se ldom -used househo ld items- like winter clothing

and holiday decorations- that you can stow in covered plast iC bi ns.

The simpl icity and economy of th is shed des ign also make it a great cho ice for cab ins, vacation homes, and other remote locat ions. A heavy-duty hasp latch and padlock on the door, along with head and foot slide bolts inside, wi ll provide the security you need whe n you' re away for long pe riods.

Cutting List

Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/Size Material

Foundation Roofing

Droinage malerial 1.25 (u. yd. Compoctoble gravel Sheathing 5 sheets@4x8' 1/2" exterior-grade

Skids 2@10' 4 x 6 pressure-treated (& door header spocer) plywood roof sheathing

landscape ti mbers 151 building paper I roll

Floor Shingles 1% squares Asphalt shingles-

Rim joists 2@10' 2 x 8 pressure-treated, 250# per sq . min .

rated for ground contoct Drip edge 45 lineor ft. Metal drip edge

Joist 9@8' 2 x 8 pressurHreoted Door

Floor sheathing 3sheets@4x8' lh- tongue-g-groove Frames 7@8' 2 x 4 pressure-treated "t.-grade plywood Panels I sheet@4x8' Vn"ture I-II

Wall Framing plywood siding

Bottom plates 2@ 10', 2 @8' 2 x 4 Stops & overlap trim 4@B' I x 2 pressure-treated

Top plates 4@ 10', 4 @8' 2 x 4 Fasteners & Hardware

Studs 36@8' 2 x 4 16d galvanized common noils 4 Ibs_

Door header I@IO' 2 x 6 16d (ommon nails 10 Ibs.

Roof Framing I Od common nails 2 lb.

Rafters 6@12' 2 x 6 8d galvanized common nails 3 Ibs_

Rafter blocking 2@10' 2 x 6 8d box nails 3 Ibs_

Ridge boord I@IO' I x8 8d galvanized siding or finish nails 9 Ibs_

Collor ties 2@12' 2 x 4 I" galvanized roofing nails 5 Ibs_

Exterior Finishes Door hinges with screws 6 @ 3'1'- Galvanized metal hinges

Siding II sheet @ 4 x B' '/," Texture I-II Door handle plywood siding Door lock (optional)

Fascia 4@12' Ix8 Door head bolt Corner him 8@8' Ix2 Door foot bolt Goble wall trim 2@8' Ix4 Construction adhesive Siding flashing 16 lineor ft_ Metoll-flashing

156 THE COM PLETE CUJrJE TO CONTEMPORARY SHEDS

I x 8 Goble

1 x4Trim

I x 2 (orner i

2 x 8 Sose frome ------''''<:

ELEVATION

Aspholt shingles

1 x 8 Foscio

x 6 Siocking

~~i~~~~~~~~~~ff~~~llf~~~4 x 8 Top plotes

2 Doors, eoch 6',8" high x 2',0" wide, 2 x 4 frome with Tl -ll treoted plywood siding

48 1;1" x SO yt Door R.O.

4x 61kid

Si!cd Projects 157

I x 8 Ridge board

2x 4 Goble studs

2x 4 S.ud . ,11

2x 8 Bose fro me

2x 4 (,II, r lies

2x 4 S.ud

Top of woll

"" -'-

Ply. "d~

4x 6 Skid,

FRAMING ELEVATION

SIDE FRAMING

~~~~------2 x 4 Collar lies

2x 6 R,her 2' ·0' 0.(.

2· 2 x 4 Rofter supporh

Ply."d

4x 6Skid

"~~~ g -----~

V

----------d i=

], ·11' I

158 T i lE COMPLETE CU m E TO CONTEM PORAIW SHEDS

FLOOR FRAMING

r--

'--;-;...

f--

9',11"

REAR FRAMING

~' . ' Top plol

2x 4 Siud

9',11" ~

~ ;...

~

~, 2x 4 Soltorn plale

t

T·ll Y."

r--

r---

1/ LL

2x 8 Rim joist

2x 8 Joist

4 x 6 Skid

2x 8 Rim joist

FRONT FRAMING

51 Yt" Header

II II II

4' -1ft" R.O.

9',11"

2 4 x Top plol

~: X 6 Header

't / 2 x 4

Siud

;;: -;...

~

1~ 2'- 11 Y4·

"" " 2x 4 Bollom plate

Shed Projects 159

ROOF PLAN

" I 1 1

"- 1 1 1

1 1 ,,\1 1 1

,,\ 1 1

" 1 1

"\ 1 '\I 1

1 vi 1 ~

'(

"-

FLOOR PLAN

/> /

~ -

tv t'\ V

1 IV 10 \ {/~

~ 2' ·1l !4" 4'·lh"

9' -II" (10'0" @ sheathing)

160 T H E CO~ tPLETE CUtD E TO CONT EM PORARY SH EDS

1 1

1 1

1 1

1 1 1 1

1

1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1

1 1

1 1 1 1

" 1

1

"\ 1

"-"t-

'f

l;\~ II ,\ A _ f(\ \

If\\ 2' ·Il W

--

= ~

1 ;; b ;"

-"-

Aspholl shingles

2x4 (ollar lies

2x6 Rafters 2" O.L

2x 4 Studs 16" O.c.

2x8 Floor joists 16" O.c.

¥t Plywood

RAFTER TEMPLATE

, ~ 11

6"

I

, I' I '~~ _____ 1"~~~~~~f~ __ 4_~" _________ 2x_6 ______________ ~;1

Hinge

DOOR DETAIL

24"

2 x 4 Frame

2 x 4 (ross brc(e (angle down to hinge side)

Reor View

/' V VI" Plywood siding

Front View

S i!cd Projects 161

I How to Build the Simple Storage Shed

Prepare the foundation site with a 4" layer of compacted gravel where the skids will be located. Cut the two 4 x 6 timber skids at 119". Position the skids on the gravel beds so their outside edges are 95" apart, making sure they are level and parallel.

Attach tongue-and-groove plywood flooring to the floor frame, starting at the left front corner of the shed. Begin the second row of plywood with a full sheet in the right rear corner to stagger end jOints. Make sure the tongues are fully seated in the mating grooves. Fasten the sheathing With 3d galvanized common nails.


Cut two 2 x 8 rim joists at 119" . Cut nine 2 x 3 joists at 92" . Assemble the floor frame following the FLOOR FRAMING (page 159), then set it on the skids and measure the diagonals to make sure the frame IS square. Fasten the jOists to the skids with 16d galvanized common nails.

Frame the rear wall: Cut one 2 x 4 bottom plate and one top plate at 119". Cut ten 2 x 4 studs at 92%" . Assemble the wall uSing 16" on-center spacing, as shown in the REAR FRAMING (page 159). Raise the wall and fasten it flush to the rear edge of the floor, then brace the wall in position with 2 x 4 braces.

Build the side walls following the SIDE FRAMING (page 158). The two side walls are identical. Each has a bottom and top plate at 88" and seven studs at 92%". Assemble each wall, then install it and brace It in position .

... /

J M ,

Cut two 2 x 6 pattern rafters following the RAFTER TEMPLATE (page 161). Test-fit the rafters and make any necessary adjustments. Use one of the patterns to mark and cut the remaining 10 rafters. Cut the 1 x 8 ridge board at 119". Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge and the front and rear wall plates following the ROOF PLAN (page 160). Note: Before installing the ralters on the long sides of the shed (door face and wall parallel to door), first install siding. The rafters overhang the siding on the long sides, therefore the siding (at least on those sides) needs to be in place before the ralters are installed.

Frame the front wall following the FRONT FRAMING (page 159): Cut two plates at 119", cut eight studs at 92%", and cut two jack studs at 79". Install the 2 x 6 built-up header (add a layer of Y;' plywood as a spacer between the 2 x 6s), then add three cripple studs. Raise and fasten the front wall, then install the double top plates along all four walls.

Cover the shed exterior with y," siding, starting at the left end of the rear wall. Butt full sheets up against the rafters, lett ing the bottom edges overhang the floor frame by at least 1". Complete the front wall , and then the side walls, keeping the bottom edges even with the sheets on the front and side walls. Add Z-flashing, and continue the siding to the tops of the end rafters.

(continued)


Install the rafters and ridge board . Cut four 2 x 4 collar ties at 64", mitering the ends at 33S. Fasten the collar ties between each set of the four inner rafters, using 10d common nails. Make sure the ties are level and extend close to but not above the top edges of the rafters. Note: Do not install collar ties if you're building an attic floor.

Adding an Attic ~

TO bUild an attic floor for storage, cut six 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 floor joists at 95" (use 2 x 6s if you plan to store heavy items in the attic). If necessary, clip the top corners of the joists so they won't extend above the tops of the rafters. Fasten the jOists to the rafters and wall plates with 10d common nails (photo A). At the end rafters, Install 2" blocking against the rafters,

then attach the joists to the blocking and gable wall studs.


Mark the gable wall stud layout onto the Sidewall top plates. Use a level to transfer the marks to the end rafters. Cut each of the 102 x 4 studs to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5'. Install the studs. Note: The center stud on each wall is located to the rear side of the ridge board. If desired, frame in the attic floor at this time (see Adding an Attic, below).

Frame access openings with two header joists spanning neighboring floor joists (photo B). For heavier storage, double up the floor joists on either side of the opening, then use doubled headers to frame the opening.

Join doubled members with pails of 10d common nails every 16" . Cover the joists with 'Ii' plywood fastened with 3d nails to complete the attic floor.

Enclose the rafter bays over the walls with 2 x 6 blocking. Bevel the top edge of the blocking at 33S so it will be flush with the rafters. Cut the blocks to fit snugly between pairs of rafters and install them. Install 1 x 8 fascia boards at the ends of the rafters along the eaves, and over the siding on the gable ends. Keep the fascia W' above the tops of the rafters.

construct the two doors from 2 x 4 bracing and '/," siding, as shown In the DOOR DETAIL (page 161). The doors are identical. Each measures 48W' x 80'li' . Mortise the butt hinges into the door brace and wall frame, and install the doors leaving a 'f," gap between the doors and along the top and bottom.

Apply 'Ii' roof sheathing, starting at the bottom corner of either roof plane. The sheathing should be flush with the tops of the fascia boards. Add the metal drip edge, building paper, and asphalt shingle roofing following the steps on pages 55 to 57.

Trim the corners of the shed with 1 x 2s. Also add a piece of 1 x 2 trim on one of the doors to cover the gap between the doors. Install 1 x 4 trim horizontally to cover the Z-flashing at the side walls. Install door locks and hardware as desired.


I Gothic Playhouse

Playhouses are all about stirring the im agination .

Loaded with fan cy Ameri ca n Goth ic detail s, this charm ing little hOllse makes a spec ial play horne for

kids and an attractive backyard feat ure for adults. I n addition to its architectural c haracter (see Gothic Style , helmv), what makes thi s a great playhouse des ign is its size- the e nc losed house measu res 5 X 7Y, ft. an d includes a 5-ft .-tall door and plenty

of headroom ins ide. T his means your kids will likely "outgrow" th e playhouse before they get too big for it.

A nd you ca n ahvays give the hOllse a second li fe as a

storage shed. At the front of the hOllse is a 30" -deep porch

complete \"l ith rea l decking boards and a nicely

decorated railing. Each side \,vail features a

w ind ow an d flower box, and the "foundation" has

the look of stone created by wood blocks applied

to th e floor fra ming. All of these fea tures are

optional, but each one adds to the charm of this we ll-appointed playhouse.

As shown here, the floor of the playhouse is ancho red to fou r 4 X 4 posts buried in the ground .

Gothic Style ~

The architectural style known as American Gothic (also called Gothic ReVival and Carpenter Gothic) dates back to the 1830s and essentially marks

the beginning of the Victorian period in American home design. Adapted from a similar movement in England, Gothic style was inspired by the ornately decorated stone cathedrals found throughout Europe. The style qUickly evolved in America as thrifty carpenters learned to re-create and reinterpret the original decorative motifs using wood

instead of stone. American Gothic's most characteristic feature

is the steeply pitched roof with fancy scroll-cut barge boards, or verge boards, which gave the style its popular nickname, "gingerbread." Other typical features found on Gothic homes (and the Gothic Playhouse) Include board-and-batten siding, doors and windows shaped with Gothic arches, and spires or finials adorning roof peaks.


As an altern ative, you can set the playhouse on 4 X 6 timber skids . Anothe r custom variat ion you might

cons ider is in the styling of the verge boards (the

gingerbread gab le trim) . In stead of using the provided

pattern , you ca n creClte a curdboard template of yo ur

own des ign. Architec tural pl Cl n and pattern books from the Gothic period are full of in spiration for

decorative ideas .

Cutting List

Description Quantity/ Size Material Description Quantity/Size Material

Foundation/Floor Bolls 1 @ 3 "~io. Wooden sphere,

Droinage material I cu . yd . Compoctible grovel pressure-treated

Foundation posts 4 @ field meosure 4 x 4 pressure-treated Roofing

lundscope timbers Sheothing 4 sheets@4xB' W' exlerior-grode plywood

Concrete Field meosure 3,000 psi concrete roof sheothing

Rim joists 3@10', I @B' 2 x 12 pressure-trea ted, 11# building po per I roll

roted for ground con toct Orip edge 40 lineor ft. Metol drip edge

Floor jOists I @IO', 1@B' 1 x 6 pressure-treoted Shingles 1 squore Aspholt shingles - 110#

Box sills (rim joists) 1@11' 2 x 4 pressure-treated per sq. min.

Floor sheothing 1 shee ts @ 4 x B' 'I," ext.-grode plywood Fasteners & Hardware

Porch decking I@IO' 1 x 6 pressure-treated decking 16d golvanized 3V, lbs_ (ommon noils

Foundation uslonesu 7@10' 'I, x 6" treoted decking w/rodius edge (no.), 16d common noils I Ibs.

roted for ground con toet 10d common noils V, lb.

Framing Ifor double top plotes)

Woll froming & roilings 19@ 11' 1 x 4 10d golvanized finish/ 4 Ibs .

Rafters & spacers 7@ 11' 1 x 4 ((Ising nails

Bd golvanized I lb. Ridge boord I @B' Ix6 (ommon nails Collor ties I@IO' Ix4 Bd box noils 1lbs. Exterior Finishes Bd golvanized siding noils Bibs. Siding, window boxes 16@ 10' I x B pressure-treoted 1" galvanized roofing nails 3 Ibs . & door trim or cedor

2" deck screws I lb. Battens & trim 30@B' 1 x 2 pressure-treated (for porch decking)

or cedar 6d golvanized finish noils 1lbs.

Door ponel, verge boords & 10@10' 1 x 6 pressure-treated 3W' galvanized

fascia or cedar 24 screws

waod screws Door broces, trim 1@10' 1 x 4 pressure-treated

11// galvanized &. roiling trim or cedar

12 screws wood screws

Roiling bolusters 4@B' 2 x 2 pressure-treated Dowel screws (for spire) Galvanized dowel screws

or cedar 3 screws

Window stops 1@B' ¥s" pressure-treated or cedar log screws w/wushers 1@6" W' galvanized log screws

quarter-round molding Door hinges w/screws 3 Corrosion-resistant hinges

Window glozing (optionol) 4@10x9V," V," plustic glozing Door hundle/lotch

Spire Exterior wood glue

Post I@B' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Cleor exterior coulk (for -- optional window pones)

Trim I @4' 1 x 2 pressure-treated

Molding 1@4' Cop molding, Construction adhesive

pressure-trea ted


Picture

1 x 6 decking on porch

End joist

SECTION

+ ______ 1 x 6 Ridge . , 84Y, ------+-

2 x 4 Spacer

2Y/ Both ends 30"1

1 V? Plywood

15# Roofing felt

:':~~~~;M§~~~f~~~~~~~~~~:= Green sh ingles J ~~~~~nff~-- I X 6 I lJ.l----;::-- 1 x 8 Boards wi th

1 x 2 Bollens

2 x 12

I I 4 - 4 x 4s : I ;-Sel in (oncrete I : . below froslline

Rim joisls, trealed

2 x 6 Joists .16" O.C

CuI robbet on bock side for optional plastic window pones

Y4 x 6" Rod. edge decking blocks

Si!cd Projects 169

30" t : ~ 2 x 2 Railing posls

I I I I

I

~ ~ I I

I I I I

I I I I

g----, 1 x 6 Oe(kin overhangs fro by 1114" '0 (O V

foundation HS

I me I I er I I lones~

i~ I I I I

:~ ~

VERGE BOARD TEMPLATE

1- - 1-

\

!.,I

i-

l-

I/

1 Square = 1" {(ulfrom I x 61

F- Scrap

Verge board

~~

a -~ ~

~

'" "' -~

Xl =

:8

8

"X

Xl

FLOOR PLAN

110'

80"

28" [Xl

J 24" R.O.

'I 24" R.O.

[Xl

DECK RAILING DETAIL

2x 4 I x 2

Nole detail below

3~~," k----=±::iT}'c-J~ I~~~ 'l ~" R.

ICullrom 1 x 4)

170 THE COM PLETE CUIt)E TO CONTEM PORA RY SHEDS

[Xl

~

'r [Xl

28"

~ p-

fg:

~

2 x 4 Ilud,20" 0.(,- ~

Is< ~

SPIRE DETAIL

4x 4 Topered lo ~' on 0114 sides

3" Ball

4x 4Posi

~=;I- Molding

, ,

, , ,

, , , , ,

, , , , , , , , ,

DOOR DETAIL

Top View

1 x 1 Slops _ _ ~ 4 frome

Door '9'

4" Sq. cutout

3" Sq. cutout

-+,1,-- 11" --'+-f 4- 1 x 8son2 x 4frome

1 x 2 Trim

1 x 2 Trim

BOARD & BATTEN DETAIL

;:--- W Gop

-,'--

DOOR ARCH TEMPLATE

/i"---, II !

I 1/,1 / !

/I / I

II 1 I

r--I

I

1 -

I

\\ \\

\1

\ ~\ ~

1\ ~

\ I ~, 1\

\ j

_ (Osing/finish t------~--~-[=:===~=:::::==:;:::=1~- IOd Gol •. 8d Gol.. , , noil

Door arch trim hullrom 1 x 8)

I" Grid

Door arch cui (\4" in from Irimculj

(Osing/siding '" I 1 I 1 "'"

nOils ----1=====T=~~=d=~~;::::±=~=~=I----=t-- l x 4 Blocking/plate

1 x8Siding---------./1 t ~ \'-------1 x 8 Siding

wY ~ 1,1" 1 x2Bollen (centered over siding joint)

Si!cd Projects 17 1

FRONT FRAMING

30"

1+-',-----1 x 6 Ridge boord

-----',-----"<--- 1 x 4 Collar lie

---''<--- 2 x Hofter

2 x 4 (ross piece

2x4Broce

2 x Block

22'h" R.O.

2x 4Block

2 x 4 Door Studs 2 x 4 Hollom Plate

I· 60" Side~.

172 T H E CO~ IP LETE CUIDE TO CONTEM PORA RY SH EDS

l

I

2 x 6 POrth joist (even spocing )

- 2 x 12 End ioisl

FLOOR FRAMING PLAN

110·

lA" Plywood floor sheathing (indicoted wi th dolled lines)

~ j/ '\ \ \

\ / \ / \ /

- 2x l2 Hooder l

ioisl / \ /

/ /

/

~ J 4 x 4 Foundahon post

L

r---

\ \

/1 \ \ / \ /

\ //

80·

SIDE FRAMING

(enler line on ralter

84W /

/

.,; - , ~ • R.O. ~

i 80·

1

1~6 Ridge board

'" /

" / A / " / "

\ 2X6 JOist!

II

r- 2 x 4 Rafter

2 x 4 Top plates

" !-

JS /

/ //

" " " "~

~-

Si!cd Projects 173

RAFTER TEMPLATE

12

2011 V Roolslope

'k~/"\-=--=--=----=----=--_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-----------7-='------r-~

WINDOW BOX DETAIL

8"

6"

-'k_J=======l~r;;:::::::::;;;;. (ullrom 1 x 8's

6"

174 T H E CO~ IP LETE CUIDE TO CONTEM PORARY SH EDS

I How to Build the Gothic Playhouse

Set up perpendicular mason's lines and batter boards to plot out the excavation area and the post hole locations, as shown in FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 173). Excavate and grade the construction area, preparing for a 4"-thick gravel base. Dig 12"-dia. holes to a depth below the frost line, plus 4". Add 4" of gravel to each hole. Set the posts in concrete so they extend about 10" above the ground.

Make sure the frame is square and level (prop it up temporarily), and then fasten it to the posts with 16d galvanized common nails.

After the concrete dries (overnight) add compactable gravel and tamp It down so it is 4" thick and flat. Cut two 2 x 12 rim jOists for the floor frame, two 2 x 12 end joists and one header JOISt. Cut four 2 x 6 Joists at 57" and two porch Joists at 27%". Assemble the floor frame with 16d galvanized common nails following FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.

Cover the interior floor with plywood, starting at the rear end. Trim the second piece so it covers % of the header JOIst. Install the 1 x 6 porch decking starting at the front edge and leaving a %" gap between boards. Extend the porch decking 1 Yo" beyond the front and sides of the floor frame.

(continued)


Frame the side walls as shown in the SIDE FRAMING (page 173) and FLOOR PLAN (page 170). Each wall has four 2 x 4 studs at 48%", a top and bottom plate at 80", and a 2 x 4 window header and sill at 24". Install the horizontal 2 x 4 blocking, spaced evenly between the plates. Install only one top plate per wall at th is time.

TO frame the front wall, cut two treated bottom plates at 15%", two end studs at 51Yi' and two door studs at 59" . Cut a 2 x 4 crosspiece and two braces, mitering the brace ends at 45°. Cut SIX 2 x 4 blocks at 12%".Assemble the wall as shown in the FRONT FRAMING (page 172). Raise the front wall and fasten it to the floor and sidewall frames.


Build the rear wall. Raise the side and rear wails, and fasten them to each other and to the floor frame. Add double top plates. Both sidewall top plates should stop flush with the end stud at the front of the wall.

Cut one set of 2 x 4 pattern rafters following the RAFTER TEMPLATE (page 174). Test-fit the rafters and make any necessary adjustments. use one of the pattern rafters to mark and cut the remaining eight rafters. Also cut four 2 x 4 spacers- these should match the rafters but have no blJd'smouth cuts.

Cut the ridge board to size and mark the rafter layout following the SIDE FRAMING, and then screw the rafters to the ridge. Cut five 1 x 4 collar ties, mltellng the ends at 31°. Fasten the collar ties across each set of rafters so the ends of the ties are flush with the rafter edges. Fasten the 2 x 4 crosspiece above the door to the two end rafters. Install remaining crosspieces as In the FRONT/REAR FRAMING.

Cut the arched sections of door trim from 1 x 8 lumber, following the arch template (page 171). Install the arched pieces and straight 1 x 2 side pieces flush with the inside of the door opening. Wrap the window openings with lipped 1 x 6 boards, and then frame the outsides of the openings with 1 x 2 tllm. lnstall a 1 x 2 batten over each siding Joint as shown in step 10.

Install the 1 x 8 siding boards so they overlap the floor frame by 1" at the bottom and extend to the tops of the side walls, and to the tops of the rafters on the front and rear walls. Gap the boards 'Ii', and fasten them to the framing with pairs of 8d galvanized casing nails or siding nails. Install the four 2 x 4 spacers on top of the siding at the front and rear so they match the rafter placement.

Build the 1 x 2 window frames to fit snugly inside the trimmed openings. Assemble the parts with exterior wood glue and galvanized finish nails. If desired, cut a Yo" rabbet in the back side and Install plastic windowpanes with silicone caulk. Secure the window frames in the openings with '1." quarter-round molding. Construct the window boxes as shown in the WINDOW BOX DETAIL (page 174). Install the boxes below the windows with 1%" screws.

(continued)


TO build the spire, start by drawing a line around a 4 x 4 post, 9" from one end . Draw cutting lines to taper each side down to W', as shown in the SPIRE DETAIL (page 170). Taper the end with a circular saw or handsaw, and then cut off the point at the 9" mark. Cut the post at 43". Add 1 x 2 trim and cap molding as shown in the detail, mitering the ends at the corners. Drill centered pilot holes into the post, balls, and paint, and join the parts with dowel screws.

Add a 1 x 2 block under the front end of the ridge board. Center the spire at the roof peak, drill pilot holes, and anchor the post with 6" lag screws. Cut and install the 1 x 6 front fascia to run from the spire to the rafter ends, keeping the fascia Y/ above the tops of the rafters. Install the rear fascia so it covers the ridge board. Cut and Install two 1 x 4 brackets to fit between the spire post and front fascia, as shown In the SPIRE DETAIL.


TO cut the verge boards, enlarge the VERGE BOARD TEMPLATE (page 170) on a photocopier so the squares measure 1". Draw the pattern on a 1 x 6. Cut the board with a Jigsaw Test-fit the board and adjust as needed. Use the cut board as a pattern to mark and cut the remaining verge boards. Install the boards over the front and rear fascia, then add picture molding along the top edges.

cut the 1 x 6 eave fascia to fi t between the verge boards, and install it so it will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Cut and install the roof sheathing. Add bUilding paper, rnetal drip edge, and asphalt shingles, following the steps on page 56.

Mark the deck post locations 1%" in from the ends and front edge of the porch decking, as shown in the FLOOR PLAN. Cut four 4 x 4 railing posts at 30". Bevel the top edges of the posts at 45°, as shown in DECK RAILING DETAIL (page 170). Fasten the posts to the decking and floor frame With 3y," screws. Cut six 2 x 4 treated blocks at 3y,". Fasten these to the bottoms of the posts, on the sides that will receive the railings.

construct the door with 1 x 6 boards fastened to 2 x 4 Z-bracing, as shown in the DOOR DETAIL. Fasten the boards to the bracing with glue and 6d finish nails. Cut the square notches and the top of the door with a jigsaw. Add the 2 x 2 brace as shown. Install the door with two hinges, leaving a %" gap all around. Add a knob or latch as desired.

Assemble the railing sections following the DECK RAILING DETAIL. Each section has a 2 x 4 top and bottom rail, two 1 x 2 nailers, and 2 x 2 balusters spaced so the edges of the balusters are no more than 4" apart. You can build the sections completely and then fasten them to the posts and front wall, or you can construct them in place starting with the rails. Cut the shaped trim boards from 1 x 4 lumber, using a Jigsaw. Notch the rails to fit around the house battens as needed.

Make the foundation "stones" by cutting 116 6"-lengths of % x 6 deck boards (the pieces in the top row must be ripped down 1 "). Round over the cut edges of all pieces with a router. Attach the top row of stones uSing construction adhesive and 6d galvanized finish nails. Install the bottom row, starting with a half-piece to create a staggered joint pattern. If deSired, finish the playhouse interior with plywood or tongue-and-groove siding.


I Timber-frame Shed

Timber-frami ng is a trad itional style of building that

uses a s impl e framework of heavy ti mber posts a nd beams con nec ted vvith hand-carved joints. From the

olltside, a timber-frame building looks like a standard sti ck- frame structure, but o n the inside, the stout , rough-sawn framin g members evoke the look and feel of an 18th-century workshop. T h is 8 X IO-ft . shed has the sa me basic design used in tradi tional timber-frame

structures but wit h joi nts that are easy to make. In addition to the [Taming, some notabJe featu res

of this shed Clre its simpli city and proportions. It's a ni cely symmetrical building with full-height vvalls and an Clttractively steep-p itched roof, somethi ng you seldom fi nd on manufactured kit sheds. The clean styling gives it a traditional , rustic look, but a lso makes the shed ideal for adding custom deta ils. Insta ll a skylight or \vindows to brighten the interior, or perhaps cut a c rescent moon in to

the door in the style of o ld-fashioned backyard privies.


The materia ls fo r this project were carefu ll y chosen to e nhan ce the traditional styling. T he 1 x 8 tongue-and-groove s idi ng and a ll exterio r trim boards are made fro m rough-sawn cedar, giving the shed a natural, rust ic qua lity. T he door is hand-built from rough cedar boards and includes exposed Z-bracing, a classic outbui ld ing detail. As shown herc, the roof frame is made with standard 2 X 4s, but if you're willing

to pay a little more to improve the appearance, you can use rough-cut 2 x 4s or 4 X 4s fo r the roof frami ng.

Anot he r option to cons ider is traditional spaced sheath ing instead o f p lywood for th e roof deck. Spaced sheathing cons ists of I X 4 boards na iled perpend icular to the roof frame, with a I Y2" gap between boards . The roof shingles are na iled directly to the sheathing without building paper in between,

creat ing a n attractive ceiling of exposed boards and shingles ins ide the s hed.

Cutting List

Description Quantity/Size Material Description Quantity/ Size Material

Foundation Sollit vents (optional) 4@4xI2" Louver with bug screen

Drainage malerial I cu. yard Compactible grovel Flashing (door I 4 linear ft. Galvanized - 18 gouge

Skids 3@10' 6 x 6 treated timbers Roofing

Floor Framing Roof sheathing 6 sheets@4x8' 'I, ex t.·grode plywood

Rim joists 2@ 10' 2 x 6 pressure-treated Cedar shingles 1.7 squares

Joist 9@8' 2 x 6 pressure·treo ted 15# bUilding paper 140 sq. ft.

Joist clip angles 18 3 x 3 x 3" x 18·gouge Roof vents (op tional I 2 units galvanized Door

Floor sheathing 3 sheets@4x8' Y. tongue-&-groove Frome 2 @7' 'I. x 4'1." (octuol) S4S cedar ext.·grode plywood 1@4'

Wall Framing Stops 2@7' I x 2 S4S cedar Posts 6@8' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedor 1@4'

Window pasts 2@4' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedm Panel material 7 @7' I x 6 T&G V·joint

Girts 2@10' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedor rough -sown cedar

2@8' l·broce I @8'to 1 x 6 rough-sown cedar

Beams 2@ 10' 4 x 6 rough-sown cedar 2@8'

2@8' Strop hinges

Braces 8@2' 4 x 4 rough-sown cedm Trim S@7' 1 x 3 rough-sown cedar

Post bases 6, with nails Simpson 8C40 Flashing 42" metal flashing

Post-beam connectors 8 pieces, with nails Simpson LCE Fasteners

L-connectors 4, with nails Simpson A34 60d common nails 16 nails

Additional posts 6@8' 4 x 4 rough·sown cedor 20d cammon nails 32 nails

Roof Framing 16d galvanized cammon nails 3'I, lbs.

Rafters 12@ 7' 2 x 4 I Od cammon nails I lb.

Collor ties 2@10' 2 x 4 10d galvanized casing nails '1, lb.

Ridge boord I @IO' 2 x 6 8d galvanized box nails I 'j, Ibs.

Metal anchors - rafters 8, with nails Simpson HI 8d galvanized finish nails 7 Ibs.

Goble·end blocking 4@ 7' 2 x 2 8d box nails 'I. lb.

Exterior Finishes 6d galvanized finish nails 40 noils

Siding 2@ 14' I x 8 V·joint 3d golvanized finish noils 50 noils 8@ 12' rough-sown cedor 1 W' joist hanger nails 72 nails 10@ 10' 29@ 9' 2W' deck screws 2S screws

Corner trim 8@9' I x 4 rough·sown cedor 1 W' wood screws 50 screws

Fascia 4@7' 1 x 6 rough-sown cedar 1Je- galvanized rooling nails 2 Ibs.

2@ 12' Yo" x 6" log screws, wlwoshers 16 screws

Fascia trim 4@7' 1 x 2 rOlJgh-sown cedar '/," x 6" log screws, wlwoshers 2@ 12' Construction adhesive 4 tubes

Subfoscio 2@ 12' I x 4 pine Note : Additional posts tIloy be added as a safety Plywood soffit I sheet4x8' Yo" cedor or fir plywood precaution to prevent eave beam defiectio'l'l.


FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION

2 x 6 Ridge 2 x 4 (ollar lie

2 x 4 Rofter Melal connector 24" 0.(.-----,--,."')'; 12

:sJ 12 2 x 8 Ikylighl frome·'----T:;:L====:::;;£«(

4 x 6 Beam

4 x 4Post

~Oplionol

'"' 00

~Oplionol

Door

3'.2" Rough

opening

4 x 4 Brace

4 x 4 Header notch 10 post

4 x 4 Girl , notched 10 posl

y." Ext. ply.

~2 X 6TreOled floor joist 16" 0.(.

6 x 6 Treated timber skid

REAR FRAMING ELEVATION

2x 6Ridge

2x4Roiter 24" 0.(.

12 2 x 8 Ikylighl I 2 V;; frome-

2 x 4 Collar lie

4 x 6 Beam

4 x 4 Broce

4x4Posi

4 x 4 Girl, notched to post

'" .,. Post bose (onneelor @ eoch post

Yo Exl. ply.

2 x 6 Treated floor joist 16" O.c


2x 6R idge

alter 2x 4R 24" 0.( .- ......------'

ollorlie~ - D 2 x 4C

4x68 eom

OSI./ roce

4x 4P

4x48

4x 46 notched

irt, 10 p

y ~

RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION

2x 6R

2x 4R 24" 0.(

idge

alter

2 x 4C ollorlie -

4x68 eom

4x 48 roce ----

4x 4P osl

4x 46 notched

irf, 10 p

·Oplionol

---V ~ Window

rough openinf ~ "r

1'·2" ;.,

/ Posl bose !Onneelor @ each posl ________

Si!cd Projects 183

2 x 6 Ridge

y? N Plywood sheathing

2 x 4 Roher 24" O.C

2 x 4 Collor lie

4 x 6 Timber holl· lap joint 01 (orner

BUILDING SECTION

$

'G 1 x 2 Trim ~~::::;::=:========~).-~:t-r l x 6Fosdo

4x bBeom

4 x 4PosI

4 x 4 Girl, notched into (orner posts

I x 8 T&6 siding

%" Exl. ply.

2 x 6 Treated floor joisl16" O.L


6x 6 Treated

S" '" .,. '"'

Rough openin

'" "" '" ..

FLOOR FRAMING PLAN

limber skid "'-~i2~~~::~~~~::::';;;~~I ---' __ 2x 6 Treated flooriois~ 16" O.C "

1l=i=}====i=l====={H

2x6 ~

Treated ",~g~~~"""""'=FF=======ffl b ~ rimjoisl -" '= .::

1

8" J

I, ~f~ 3' ·4" 3' ·4" , :: ' 8' ·0" ' : Dimensions 10 outsides of joists

184 THE COM PLETE CUJrl E TO CONTEM PORA RY SHEDS

RAFTER TEMPLATE

r 2Y

'

FLOOR PLAN

~12 12

Roof slope

2 x 4 Rofter

LROOf'ines shown dashed

r----------------- ----l--4 __ ~~

4x 4PosI

4 x 4 Additional post

4x 4Posi S> 4x 4PosI

'"'

Rough Opening

3' ·2" 2' ·S"

8' ·0"

Dimensions 10 outsides of joists

'Optional

FRONT ELEVATION

Skylighl'

Asphalt shingles

1 x 2 Trim

1 x 6 Fosdo

Ii-~--:;:--~-~-§-~-~-i-rrr11t-- Flashing

+1+-- I x 8 T&G siding

[\ c"i-t++-++I+-- Homemade door

1+--- 1 x 4 Trim

~l x 3Trim


REAR ELEVATION

Skylighl'

Asphalt shingles

1 x 2Trim

~1 x 6Foscio

I x 8 1&6 siding

1+--- 1 x 4 Trim

_..::±:r====:::J:t::==':::::':rl~=- 6 x 6 Treated limber sk id

·Optional

I Asphal shingle s

Skylig hi

I x 2 Trim

I x 6 Fascia /

I x 8 T&6 si ding -

I x 4 Trim~

6x 6 limber

Treated skid -

"Optional

Asphall shingles

I x 2 T rim

I x 6 F osda

2x 4M ullion

Homem window

ode -

LEFT SIDE ELEVATION

-I I ,II II II II II I

I I

II


-I- D rim ----I x 3 T

I x 8 T&G sid ing

rim I x 4 T

6x 6T limber 5

reoled kid

1111 I II II

I

Si!cd Projects 185

GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL

%" Plywood

1 x 2 Trim

2 x 4 Rafter --+-~=F~f-

1 x 6 Fascia

1 x 8 T&G siding

DOOR JAMB DETAIL

,---------- 4 x 4 POll

,------1 x 3 Trim

'A"

~" 800rd door w/ 1 x 6 broce

1 x 2SIop

*" Frome

'---------1 x 3 Trim

'--------------- 1 x 8 T&G siding

186 THE COM PLETE CUJrlE TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

%" Plywood sheothing

2 x 4 Roher 24" O.C

Metol anchors, each rolle

l-conneclor, eoch corner

4 x 6 Beom, half-lop joint ot corner

EAVE DETAIL

Soffit yent--__ ~

1 x 2 Trim

1 x 4 Sublosc io

1 x 6 Foscio ----'------"~

1'1" Plywood soffit

4x 6Beom

1 x 8 T&G siding

4 x 4Posl --------------'

~ :"

DOOR DETAIL

3' 0" i-- r Hold bock hom door edge

"-

.\ ",,- L-,t-"x

"[> \\ /'

./

\\/ 0-

c= 1\\ , t--\\

\'" ----

Strop hinge

1 x 6 Boards glued ond mewed to 1 x 6 ponel

1 x 6T&GV·Jl boords, vertical

I How to Build the Timber-frame Shed

prepare the foundation site with a 4"·deep layer of compacted and leveled gravel. Cut three 6 x 6 treated timber skids (120"). Place the skids follOWing the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 184). Lay a straight 2 x 4 across the skids and test with a level.

Position the floor frame on top of the skids and measure the diagonals to make sure it's square. Install joist clip angles at each joist along the two outer skids with galvanized nails. Toenail each joist to the center skid.

Cut two 2 x 6 rim joists (120") and nine joists (93"). Assemble the floor frame with galvanized nails, as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN. Check the frame to make sure it is square by measuring the diagonals.

Install the tongue·and·groove plywood floor sheathing, starting with a full sheet at one corner of the frame. The flooring should extend all the way to the outside edges of the floor frame.

(continued)


To prepare the wall posts, cut six 4 x 4 posts (90'/,"), making sure both ends are square. On the four corner posts, mark for 3Y,"-long x 1 Y/-deep notches (to accept the girts) on the two adjacent inside faces of each post. start the notches 46%" from the bottom ends of the posts.

Position the post bases so the posts will be flush with the outsides of the shed floor. Install the bases with 16d galvanized common nails. The insides of the door posts should be 29" from the floor sides. Brace each post so it is perfectly plumb, and then fasten it to ItS base uSing the base manufacturer's recommended fasteners.


Mark the door frame posts for notches to receive a girt at 46%" and for the door header at 82"; see the FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION (page 183). Remove the waste from the notch areas with a circular saw and clean up with a broad wood chisel. Test-fit the notches to make sure the 4 x 4 girts will fit snugly

cut two 4 x 6 beams at 10 ft. and two at 8 ft. Notch the ends of the beams for half-lap joints: Measure the width and depth of the beams and mark notches equal to the width x % the depth. Orient the notches as shown in the FRAMING ELEVATIONS (page 183). Cut the notches with a handsaw, then test-fit the JOints, and make fine adjustments with a chisel.

set an 8-ft. beam onto the front wall posts and tack it in place with a 16d nail at each end. Tack the other 8-ft. beam to the back posts. Then, position the 10 ft. beams on top of the short beam ends, forming the half-lap joints. Measure the diagonals of the front wall frame to make sure it's square, and then anchor the beams with two 60d galvanized nails at each corner (drill pilot holes for the nails).

cut eight 4 x 4 corner braces (20"), mitering the ends at 45°. Install the braces flush with the outsides of the beams and corner posts, uSing two 3(," x 6" lag screws (with washers) driven through counterbored pilot holes.

Reinforce the beam connections with a metal post-beam connector on the outside of each corner and on both sides of the door posts, using the recommended fasteners. Install an L -connector on the inside of the beam-to-beam jOints; see the EAVE DETAIL (page 186).

Measure between the posts at the notches, and cut the 4 x 4 girts to fit. To allow the girts to meet at the corner posts, make a 1 y," x 1 y," notch at both ends of the rear wall girts and the outside ends of the front wall girts. Install the girts with construction adhesive and two 20d nails driven through the outsides of the posts (make pilot holes). Cut and install the 4 x 4 door header in the same fashion.

(continued)


Frame the roof: Cut two pattern rafters using the RAFTER TEMPlATE (page 184). Test-fit the patterns, and then cut the remaining ten rafters. Cut the 2 x 6 ridge (120"). Install the rafters and ridge using 24" on-center spacing. Cut four 2 x 2S to extend from the roof peak to the rafter ends, and install them flush with the tops of the rafters; see the GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL (page 186). Add framing connectors at the rafter-beam connections (except the outer rafters). Note: if desired, you can add framing for a skylight.

Install the 1 x 8 siding on the front and rear walls so it runs from the 2 x 2s down to %" below the bottom of the floor frame. Fasten the siding with 8d corrosion-resistant finish nails or siding nails. Don't nail the siding to the door header in this step.


Cut four 2 x 4 collar ties (58"), mitering the tops of the ends at 45'. Install the ties y," below the tops of the rafters, as shown in the FRAMING ELEVATIONS.

Cover the rafter ends along the eaves with 1 x 4 subfascia, flush with the tops of the rafters; see the EAVE DETAIL. Install the 1 x 6 fascia and 1 x 2 trim at the gable ends, then along the eaves, mitering the corner joints. Keep the fascia and trim Y/ above the rafters so it will be flush with the roof sheathing.

Rip the plywood soffit panels to fit between the wall framing and the fascia, and Install them with 3d galvanized box nails; see the EAVE DETAIL

·19 ,

· I '.

construct the door frame from 'I." x 4%" stock. Cut the head Jamb at 37W' and the side jambs at 81 ". Fasten the head jamb over the ends of the side jambs with 2W' deck screws. Install the frame in the door opening, using shims and 10d galvanized casing nails. Add 1 x 2 stops to the jambs, 'I." from the outside edges.

Deck the roof with '/," plywood sheathing, starting at the bottom corners. Cover the sheathing with bUilding paper, overhanging the 1 x 2 fascia trim by 'I.". Install the cedar shingle roofing or asphalt shingles following the steps on pages 56 to 59. Include roof vents, if desired (they're a good idea). Finish the roof at the peak with a 1 x ridge cap.

Build the door with seven pieces of 1 x 6 siding cu t at 80%" . Fit the boards together, then mark and trim the outer pieces so the door is 36" wide. Install the 1 x 6 Z-bracing with adhesive and 1%" wood screws, as shown in the DOOR DETAIL (page 186). Install flashing over the outside of the door, then add 1 x 3 trim around both sides of the door opening, as shown In the DOOR JAMB DETAIL (page 186). Hang the door with three strap hinges.


I Service Shed

This versatile shelter st ructure is actual ly two projects in one. Us ing the same primary des ign,

you can build an open-s ided nrev,lood shelte r, o r you can add doors a nd a shel f and create a secu red shed that's pe rfect for trash cans o r recyc lables. Both projects have four vertical corne r posts, a rectangular floor frame decked with 2 X 6s, and gapped side s lats that provide cross venti latio n. The plyvvood , shcd

style roof is covered \vith cedar sh ingles, but yo u ca n substitute with a ny type of roofing.

To <Jdapt the service shed for use as a c losed storage shed, you can add a center post (mostly to function as a naile r) and attach slats to crea te a rear wall. With two more posts in the front , you may define

192 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONT EM PORAIW SHEDS

door openings. The adapted shed won't offer secu re storage for va luable items like tools , but it will prevent dogs, sq uirrels, raccoons a nd other pests from gett ing into you r trashcans.

As for materials, you can save a lot of money by building this p roject with pressure-t reated lumber. Stain or pai nt the gree ni sh lumber to c hange its co lori ng or leave it bare and allO\\' it to weat he r to a

s ilvery gray. If you prefer t he look of ceda r lumber, use it for everythi ng but the she lter's floor frame and

decking. Also, you might \"/a nt to set the corner posts on conc rete blocks o r stones to prevent the ced<:lr from rotting prematurely due to ground cont<:lct.

Seasoning Firewood ~

Proper seasoning, or drying, of firewood takes time. After freshly cut logs are split, the drying process can take SIX to 12 months, given the right conditions. Stacking split wood under a shelter with one or more open sides is Ideal because it protects the wood from rain and snow moisture while letting airflow through the stack to hasten drying.

You can test wood for seasoning by its look and feel and by how it burns. The ends of dry logs show cracks and typically have a grayish color, while unseasoned wood still looks freshly cut and may be moist to the touch . Fresher wood also makes a heavy, dull thud when pieces are knocked together When it comes to burning, dry wood lights easily and burns consistently, while wet wood tends to burn out if unattended and often smokes excessively as the Internal moisture

turns to steam. If you order split firewood from a supplier and can't guarantee how well seasoned It IS, have It delivered at least six months before the start of the burning season. This gives the wood plenty of time to dry out. Regarding quantity, a "cord"

of neatly stacked split logs measures 128 cubic feet- a stack that's 4 ft. high, 4 ft. deep, and 8 ft. long. A "half cord" measures 64 cubic feet.


Cutting List

Part Quantity/Size Quantity/Size Material Part Quantity/Size Quantity/Size Material Firewood Shed Garbage Shed Firewood Shed Garbage Shed

Framing Shelf & Doors

Side & end 2@10' 2@ 10' 2x4 Shelf I @ 24 '1, x 28 '1." lit ext.-grade floor supporls pressure-l1eated plywood

Cenler floor supporl I @8' 1@8' 2x4 Shelf cleols 1@6' I x 3 cedor pressure-treated Door pOllels I sheel@4x8' 3// ext.-grode

Floor boords 3@10' 3@ 10' 2x6 plywood pressure-neated Snles 3@8' I x 4 cedor

Corner posts 4@8' 4@8' 2 x 4 cedor (wide doors)

Headers 2@8' 2@8' 2 x 4 cedor I@ IO'

Rafters 1@8' 1@8' 2 x 4 cedor (norrow door)

I @4' 1@4' Hinges 6 Exterior hinges

Rear center post 1@4' 2 x 4 cedar Door handles 3 Ex terior

Door posls 1@8' 2 x 4 cedor hoodles

Door ledger I @8' 2 x 4 cedar Fasteners

Slats lit," x 3" log screws 8, wilh washers 10, wilh washers

End slols 5@8 ' S@8' I x 6 cedar Deck screws

Bock slols 5@8' I x 6 cedar 3W 12 12

Roofing 3" 62 62

Sheolhing I sheel@4x8' I sheel@4x8' 'I."CDX 2'11" 36 48

plywood 2" SO 62

Roof edging 2@10' 2@ 10' I x 2 T 1%" 100 160

151 building paper 37 sq . ft. 37 sq. ft. n .. - 116

Shingles 25 sq . ft 25 sq. ft. I B" cedar 6d galvanized 30 30

shing les fin ish nai ls

Roof cop I @8' I @8' I x 4 cedar 3d galvanized lib. lib.

I @8' I @8' I x3 cedor roofing nails

194 T I-IE COM PLETE CUtrJ E TO CONT EMPORARY SH EDS

(orner post

(enter post for garbage ,hed -

2x 4 (enter supp or'

2x 4 Side support ------2x 4 End support

~

FLOOR FRAMING PLAN

6' -8" 6'-5"

...=l

---

'" N N

FLOOR PLAN

;'i~:::r2-=rr-='-Ir-:::=-=n::=-==-nc-:::::C~==~§~~~~;::;;:;;:::~~~;- (enter post 8<1- -I"> '" lor gorb,ge ,hed

~ n------- ---------- ---------- --------- ------- -------- ------- --------- ---------- ------"" ---------- ------T~' (orner past II I 1'--, ________ 1,,11

I I: "" : Ii i I i-------- I x 6 Reorsl,.,

I 11,,::::::: ---------- ---------- ---------- -----.J I I for garbage shed il

I I! ! I "" I I i '--- iii '" I x 6 lidesl,,,

RBI ~:-~i ---~---:i-~---:=---:o-~-=:---:=---=:---?---=---=;:---g--~Vl~----~--~-!:---:=--=:-:=---%---:::-=--~-~-:::--=---'i--~--~--l'!--:;:-~=-~=:::=-,,~:~--~-"~i.l~f------- :~:~2~~~;~~or. 2' 0'

Door panels for garbage shed shown dOlled H 2'0" ,1)Vl 1'-8"

l V"~

-----------

Dimensians for garbage shed

ROOF FRAMING PLAN

6'8"

," "I

~ ~

(enter post for garbage shed

2 x 4 Rafters @ sides and Yl paints

:> 2 x 4 Headers

/ (orner post

S i!ed Projects 195

2 x 4 Header

Cedar shingles over 15# bUilding paper

¥t Plywood rool shealhing

2 x 4 Header

Door for garbage shed

2 · 2 x 4 Pasl

I x 6

BUILDING SECTION

12 4 c:::::::::d

End slols --t-Ili+--

1 x 6 Rear slols lor garbage shed

2x 6 -~~========~;=========~ll Floor boards -

2 x 4 Floor supports

2 x 4 ledger for garbage shed

DOOR ELEVATION

4' -21f{

r I I I I II I I I II I I II I I I I I I I I II I I I II I I I I I I I I II I I I II I l-I II I I K- ----- -----

1 '-9%"

...:::::---

__ L

196 THE COM PLETE cum E TO CONTEM PORARY SHEDS

-I

I I I I I

V! ~

RAFTER TEMPLATES

--:::O"""'~- 2 x 4 End rofters

~4 12

2 x 4 (enler rofters

UPPER ROOF EDGE DETAIL

Cedar shingles over IS" building paper

yt Plywood ~-~ I x 4/ 1 x3

Roof (OP

I x 2 Roof edging

2 x 4 Header

;;::L"':::'=========!"'o;t:hf---- (orner post

t7

1 x 4 Cedar stiles and roils

¥," Cedar plywood ponel

Hold plywood bock Va" from edges

j 2x 4Rofter

~ooorfor garbage shed

DOOR EDGE & CORNER POST DETAIL

1/,"

1 n 2 x 4 Posl =-~=:g:r&1~;;; 1 x 6 Rear SIDls for garbage shed

1 x 6 Side slols ----,1

Cul2 x 4 Posl ---------'

1 x 4/ 1 x 3 Roof cop

Door panels & shell lor garbage shed shown dOlled

FRONT ELEVATION

,------ III ,------ I 11 I ,----l

I I I II I I I II I

(orner Posl-====f-r+-------IHIHI I--+------~I ~I~I ~I I~I----J! I I II I I I I II I I IIU _____ 1 y, Plywood shell

on 1 x 3 deals lor garbage shed

2 x 6 Floor boards

2· yt·dio. Log screws @ each post

2 x 4 ledger lor garbage shed

Rear cenler post lor garbage shed

I II I II I I II I I I I I-----+-I III I I II I I I

I I II I I I II I I I III I I I II I I I

I I II I I I I II I I I _____ 1 L ______ I ~ ____ ..J I g~~~~~~~~~~~~-~I.

REAR ELEVATION SIDE ELEVATION

Cedar shingles

1 x 2 Roof edging

, , ---------~~---------, ,

-~~~~~~~~~!-~~~~~~~~~~ ! i ! i

-~~~~~~~~-~F~~~~~~~~~ , I , I

-~~~~~~~~-!~-~~~~~~~~~ ! I

-~~~~~~~--~~~~~~~~~~~

2 . W-dio . log screws @ each post

1 x 6 Slots for garbage shed

2 x 4 (enler post for garbage shed

(orner post

x;;."~ 12

----:::::::: ,:-=::::::::::: 4

\

------0 0

':£ ~ .. i5

~

/'

.~ (orner post

~ r

0 0

.~ $ co:" .§

M~

Si!cd Projects 197

I How to Build the Service Shed

construct the oor frame: Cut the side supports, end supports, and one center support. Fasten the end supports between the sides with 3W' deck screws, as shown In the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (page 195); locate the screws where they won't interfere with the corner post lag screws (see Step 4). Fasten the center support between the end supports, centered between the side supports.

Build the corner posts: Rip two 8-ft. 2 x 4s to 2" in width. Make an 18° cut at about 53", leaving a 43" piece from each board. Cut two full-width 2 x 4 pieces at 53" and two at 43", beveling the top ends at 18°. Assemble each front post to form an "L', using the 53" pieces and keeping the angled ends flush; use 2%" deck screws. Assemble the rear posts the same way, using the 43" pieces.


Cut twelve 2 x 6 oorboards to length. Make sure the floor frame IS square, then install the first board at one end, flush with the outsides of the frame, using 3" deck screws. Use 1" spacers to set the gaps as you install the remaining boards. Rip the last board as needed. (For the closed shed, create a 1%" x 2" notch for the left door post, starting 26" from the left end of the floor frame).

Trim the corner posts to length: First, cut the front posts at 49", measuring from the longest point of the angled ends. Cut the rear posts at 38%", measuring from the shortest point of the angled ends. Mark the insides of the posts 1%" from the bottom ends. Set each post on the floor frame so the mark is aligned with the bottom of the frame, then anchor the post with two 3" lag screws and washers, driven through counterbored pilot holes.

TO begin framing the roof, cut two 2 x 4 roof headers at 73". Bevel the top edges of the headers at 180 using a CIrcular saw and cutting gUide or a tablesaw (the broad face of the header should still measure 3Yi') . Position the headers between the corner posts, flush with the outsides of the posts. Also, the beveled edges should be flush with the post tops. Fasten the headers to the posts with 2y," deck screws.

Cut two upper and two lower rafters, following the RAFTER TEMPLATES (page 196). Install the end rafters between the corner posts, flush with the tops of the posts, using 2%" deck screws. Install the two center rafters between the headers, 25" in from the end rafters. For the closed shed, cut the 2 x 4 rear center post to run from the bottom of the rear header down to 1 y," below the bottom of the floor frame (as shown). Install the center post centered between the corner posts.

Plan the layout of the 1 x 6 slats, gapping the slats as deSired. On each side, the bottom slat mounts to the outside of the floor, covenng the floor from view. The remaining slats mount to the insides of the corner posts. Cut the side slats to fit and install them with 1 %" deck screws. For the closed shed, cover the rear side with slats, using the same techniques.

(continued)



Sheath the roof with a piece of ;;." exterior plywood cut to 35W' x 81 %". Overhang the posts by 3(." on all sides, and fasten the sheathing to the posts, headers, and rafters with 2" deck screws. Add 1 x 2 tJlm along all edges of the sheathing, mitering the ends at the corners. Fasten the trim with 6d galvanized fiJilsh nails so the top edges are flush with the sheathing.

Apply building paper over the sheathing and trim, overhanging the bottom roof edge by 1" and the sides by '/," . Install the cedar shingles (see page 58). Construct the roof cap with 1 x 3 and 1 x 4 trim boards. Join the boards to form an ''I.'' using 6d finish nails. Fasten the cap along the top edge of the roof with 6d nails.

I For the closed shed only, complete the following four steps

Cut the 2 x 2 door ledger at 73". Install the ledger flush with the top of the floor frame, screwing through the back of the side support with 2Vi' screws. Cut the 2 x 4 door posts to fit between the ledger and door header, as shown In the FLOOR PLAN (page 195). Note: The left post is on edge, and the right post is flat. Make sure the posts are plumb, and fasten them with 2'h" screws.

For the door trim, cut four stiles at 41%" and four rails at 18%" from three 8·ft. 1 x 4S. Cut two stiles at 41%" and two rails at 14%" from one 10·ft. 1 x 4. Cut two 'I." plywood panels at 23%" x 40" and one panel at 19%" x 40".

Install 1 x 3 shelf cleats at the desired height, fastening them to the rear and side slats and the right doorpost. Cut the 'I." plywood shelf to fit the space and install It with 1%" deck screws.

Fasten the rails and stiles to the door panels with 1 %" deck screws, following the DOOR ELEVATION (page 196). Screw through the backsides of the panels. Install the doors with two hinges each. use offset sash hinges mounted to the shed posts, or use standard strap hinges mounted to '1 ... ·thick blocks.

Sf!ed Projects • 20 1

I Metal & Wood Kit Sheds

The fo llowing pages walk you through the steps of

building two ne\v sheds from Idts. The meta l shed

measures 8 x 9 ft. and comes \vith every piece in the main bui ldi ng pre-cut and pre-dri lled. All you need is a

ladder and a few hand tools for assembly. The wood shed

is a cedar build ing \.vith panelized construction-most of the major clements come in prcasscm blcd sections. The walls panels have exterior sid ing insta lled, and the roof

sections are a lready sh ingled. For both sheds, the pieces

are lightweight and ma neuverable, but it he lps to have at

least t,·vo people for RUing everyth ing together.

As with most kits, these sheds do not include fou ndations as part of the standard pClckage. The met<JI shed can be built on top of a patio surface or out in the

yard, with or without an optional floor. The \,vood shed


comes ",th a comp lete wood floor, but the building needs a standard fou ndation, such as wooden slzjd, concrete

block, or concrete slab foundation. To help keep e ither

type of shed level and to reduce rnoisture frorn ground

contact, it's a good idea to bui ld it over a bed of cornpacted

gravel. A 4"-deep bed that extends about 6" beyond the

bu ilding footprin t makes for a stable founda tion and helps

keep the interior dry throughou t the seasons.

Before you purc hase a shed kit, check with your

local bu ild ing departrnent to learn about restrictions

that affect your project. It's recornrnended- and often

requ ired- that lightvveight rnetal sheds be anchored to

the ground . Shed rnctnufacturers offer d ifferent ctnchoring

sys tems, includi ng cables for tethe ri ng the shed into soil,

and concrete anchors for tying into a concrete slab.

I Building a Metal or Wood Kit Shed

If you need an outbu ilding but don't have th e time

or inclination to build one from scratch, a ki t shed

is th e a nswer. Toda/s kit sheds are ava ila bl e in a \-vide ra nge of mate rials, sizes, and styles- from snap-together plasti c lockers to Norwegian pine cCl bin s w ith divided-light w indows Cl nd loads of arc hitectural

detail s. Equally diverse is the range of quali ty Cl nci

prices for shed kj ts. O ne thing to keep in mind when c hoos ing a s hed is that muc h of what you're paying for is the materials and the case of installation. Better

kits arc made with quali ty, long-lasti ng materials, and

many come la rge ly preassembled . Most of the featu res discussed be low "viII have an impact on a shed's cost .

204 • T H E COM PLETE GUI DE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

The best place to start shopping for shed kits is on the I nternet . Large man ufac turers and small -s hop custom des igners ali ke have we bsites featuri ng th eir

products an d avai la bl e options. A quic k onli ne sea rc h shou ld help you narrO\v dO\vn your choices to sheds

that fi t your needs and budget. From there, you ca n

visit loca l dea lers or builders to vievv assembled

sheds firsthand. \J\lhen figuring cos t, be sure to

fac tor in all aspects of the project, including the

foundation, extra hardware, too ls you don't already

own, and pa int and other fin ishes not inc luded wi th

your kit.

High-tech plastics, like polyethylene and vinyl are often combined with steel and other IIgid materials to create tough, weather-resistant- and washable-kit bUildings.

If you're looking for something special. higher-end shed kits allow you to break With convention without breaking your budget on a custom-built structure.

Features to Consider ~

Here are some of the key elements to check out before purchasing a kit shed:

MATERIALS Shed kits are made of wood, metal, vinyl, various plastic compounds, or any combination thereof Consider aesthetics, of course, but also durability and appropriateness for your climate. For example, check the snow load rating on the roof If you live in a snowy climate, or inquire about the material's UV resistance If your shed will receive heavy sun exposure. The finish on metal sheds is important for durability. Protective finishes include paint, powder-coating,

and vinyl. For wood sheds, consider all of the materials, from the framing to the siding, roofing, and trimwork.

EXTRA FEATURES Do you want a shed With windows or a skylight? Some kits come with these features, while others offer them as optional add-ons. For a shed workshop, office, or other workspace where you'll be spending a lot of time, consider the livability and practicality of the interior space, and shop accordingly for special features.

WHAT'S INCLUDED? Many kits do not include foundations or floors, and floors are commonly available as extras. Other elements that may not be Included:

• Paint, stain, etc- Also, some sheds come pre-painted (or pre-primed), but you won't want to pay extra for a nice paint job if you plan to paint the shed to match your house

• Roofing- Often the plywood roof sheathing is included but not the building paper, drip edge,

or shingles.

Most shed kits include hardware (nails, screws) for assembling the building, but always check this to make sure.

ASSEMBLY Many kit manufacturers have downloadable assembly instructions on their websites, so you can really see what's involved In putting their shed together. Assembly of wood sheds varies considerably among manufacturers- the kit may arrive as a bundle of pre-cut lumber or With screwtogether prefabricated panels. Easy-assembly models may have wall siding and roof shingles already insta lled onto panels.

EXTENDERS Some kits offer the option of extending the main building with extenders, or expansion kits, making it easy to turn an 8 x 10-ft. shed into a 10 x 12-ft. shed, for example.

FOUNDATION Check with the manufacturer for recommended foundation types to use under their sheds. The foundations shown in the Building Basics section (page 21) should be appropriate for most kit sheds.

Shed hardware kits make it easy to build a shed from scratch. Using the structural gussets and framing connectors, you avoid tricky rafter cuts and roof assembly Many hardware kits come with lumber cutting lists so you can build the shed to the desired size Without using plans.


I How to Assemble a Metal Kit Shed

Prepare the building site by leveling and grading as needed, and then excavating and adding a 4"-thlck layer of compactible gravel. If desired, apply landscape fabric under the gravel to inhibit weed growth. Compact the gravel with a tamper and use a level and a long, straight 2 x 4 to make sure the area IS flat and level.

Once you've laid out the floor system parts, check to make sure they're square before you begin fastening them. Measuring the diagonals to see if they're the same is a qUick and easy way to check for square.


Note: Always wear work gloves when handling shed partsthe metal edges can be very sharp. Begin by assembling the I/oor kit according to the manufacturer's directions- these will vary quite a bit among models, even within the same manufacturer Be sure that the I/oor system parts are arranged so the door is located where you wish it to be. Do not fasten the pieces at this stage.

Fasten the floor system parts together with kit connectors once you've established that the floor is square. Anchor the floor to the site if your kit suggests. Some kits are designed to be anchored after full assembly is completed.

Begin installing the wall panels according to the instructions. Most panels are prednlled for fasteners, so the main trick is to make sure the fastener holes align between panels and with the floor.

Install the remaining fasteners at the shed corners once you've established that the corners all are square.

Tack together mating corner panels on at least two adjacent corners. If your frame stiffeners require assembly, have them ready to go before you form the corners. With a helper, attach the frame stiffener ralls to the corner panels.

Layout the parts for assembling the roof beams and the upper side frames and confirm that they fi t together properly Then, join the assemblies with the fasteners provided.

(continued)


Attach the moving and nonmoving parts for the upper door track to the side frames if your shed has sliding doors.

Fill in the wall panels between the completed corners, attaching them to the frames with the provided fasteners. Take care not to overdrive the fasteners.


10

Fasten the shed panels to the top frames, making sure to that any fasteners holes are aligned and that crimped tabs are snapped together correctly.

Fasten the doorframe trim pieces to the frames to finish the door opening. If the fasteners are colored to match the trim, make sure you choose the correct ones.

Insert the shed gable panels into the side frames and the door track and slide them together so the fastener holes are aligned. Attach the panels with the provided fasteners.

Fit the main roof beam into the clips or other fittings on the gable panels. Have a helper hold the free end of the beam. Position the beam and secure it to both gable ends before attaching it.

Drive fasteners to affix the roof beam to the gable ends and install any supplementary support hardware for the beam, such as gussets or angle braces.

(continued)


Begin installing the roof panels at one end, fastening them to the roof beam and to the top flanges of the side frames.

As the overlapping roof panels are installed and sealed, attach the roof cap sections at the roof ridge to cover the panel overlaps. Seal as directed. Note: Completing one section at a time allows you to access subsequent sections from below so you don't risk damaging the roof


Apply weatherstripping tape to the top ends of the roof panels to seal the Joints before you attach the overlapping roof panels. If your kit does not include weatherstripping tape, look for adhesive-backed foam tape In the weatherstripPing products section of your local building center.

Attach the peak caps to cover the openings at the ends of the roof cap and then Install the roof trim pieces at the bottoms of the roof panels, tucking the flanges or tabs into the roof as directed. Install plywood floor, according to manufacturer Instructions.

Assemble the doors, paying close attention to right/left differences on double doors. Attach hinges for swinging doors and rollers for sliding doors.

21

\ Install door tracks and door roller hardware on the floor as directed and then Install the doors according to the manufacturer's Instructions. Test the action of the doors and make adjustments so the doors roll or swing smoothly and are aligned properly.

Tips for Maintaining a Metal Shed ~

Touch up scratches or any exposed metal as soon as possible to prevent rust. Clean the area With a wire brush, and then apply a paint recommended by the shed's manufacturer.

Inspect your shed once or twice a year and tighten loose screws, bolts, and other hardware. Loose connections lead to premature wear.

Sweep off the roof to remove wet leaves and debris, which can be hard on the finish. Also clear the roof after heavy snowfall to reduce the risk of collapse.

Seal open seams and other potential entry pOints for water with silicone caulk. Keep the shed's doors closed and latched to prevent damage from Wind gusts.

Anchor the Shed ~

Metal sheds tend to be light In weight and require secure

anchOring to the ground, generally with an anchor kit that may be sold separately by your kit manufacturer. There are many ways to accomplish this. The method you choose

depends mostly on the type of base you've built on, be it concrete or wood or gravel. On concrete and wood bases, look for corner gusset anchors that are attached directly to the floor frame and then fastened with landscape screws (wood) or masonry anchors driven Into concrete. Sheds that have been built on a gravel or dirt base can be anchored With auger-type anchors that are driven into the ground Just outside the shed. you'll need to anchor the shed on at least

two sides. Once the anchors are driven, cables are strung through the shed so they are connected to the roof beam. The ends of the cables should exit the shed at ground level and then be attached to the anchors with cable clamps.

Sf!ed Projects • 21 1

I How to Build a Wood Kit Shed

Prepare the base for the shed's wooden skid foundation with a 4" layer of compacted gravel. Make sure the gravel is flat, smooth, and perfectly level. Note: For a sloping site, a concrete block foundation may be more appropriate (check with your shed's manufacturer).

Prepare for the Delivery ~

Panelized shed kits are shipped on pallets. The delivery truck may have a forklift, and the driver can take off the load by whole pallets. Otherwise, you'll have to unload the pieces one at a time. Make sure to have two helpers on hand to help you unload (often drivers aren't allowed to

help due to insurance liability).

2 12 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

Cut three 4 x 4 (or 6 x 6) pressure-treated timbers to match the length of the shed's floor frame. Position two outer skids so they will be flush with the outside edges of the frame, and center one skid In between. Make sure that each skid is perfectly level and the skids are level with one another.

Once the load is on the ground, carry the pieces to the building site and stack them on pallets or scrap-wood skids to keep them clean and dry. Look through the

manufacturer's instructions and arrange the stacks according to the assembly steps.

Assemble the floor frame pieces with screws. First. Join alternating pairs of large and small pieces to create three full-width sections. Fasten the sections together to complete the floor frame.

Cover the floor frame with plywood, starting with a large sheet at the left rear corner of the frame. Fasten the plywood with screws. Install the two outer deck boards. Layout all of the remaining boards In between, then set even gapping for each board. Fasten the remaining deck boards.

Attach the floor runners to the bottom of the floor frame, uSing exterior screws. Locate the side runners flush to the outsides of the frame, and center the middle runner in between. set the frame on the skids with the runners facing down. Check the frame to make sure it is level. Secure the floor to the skids following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Layout the shed's wall panels in their relative positions around the floor. Make sure you have them right-slde-up: the windows are on the top half of the walls; on the windowless panels, the siding tells you which end is up.

(continued)


Position the two rear corner walls upright onto the floor so the wall framing is flush with the floor's edges. Fasten the wall panels together. Raise and jOin the remaining wall panels one at a time. DO not fasten the wall panels to the shed floor in this step.

confirm that all wall panels are properly positioned on the floor: The wall framing should be flush with edges of the floor frame; the wall siding overhangs the outsides of the floor. Fasten the wall panels by screwing through the bottom wall plate, through the plywood flooring, and into the floor framing.

2 14 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS

Place the door header on top of the narrow front wall panel so it's flush with the wall framing. Fasten the header with screws. Fasten the door Jamb to the right-side wall framing to create a y," overhang at the end of the wall. Fasten the header to the jamb with screws.

Install the wall's top plates starting with the rear wall. Install the side wall plates as directed- these overhang the front of the shed and will become part of the porch framing. Finally, Install the front wall top plates.

11

•

Assemble the porch rail sections using the screws provided for each piece. Attach the top plate extension to the 4 x 4 porch post, and then attach the wall tnm/support to the extension. Fasten the corner brackets, centered on the post and extension. Install the handrail section 4" up from the bottom of the post.

Hang the Dutch door using two hinge pairs. Install the hinges onto the door panels. Use three pairs of shims to position the bottom door panel: Vi' shims at the bottom, 'fa" shims on the left side, and ]I." shims on the right side. Fasten the hinges to the wall trim/support Hang the top door panel in the same fashion, using %" shims between the door panels.

Install each of the porch rail sections: Fasten through the wall trim/support and Into the Side wall, locating the screws where they will be least visible. Fasten down through the wall top plate at the post and corner bracket locations to hide the ends of the screws. Anchor the post to the decking and floor frame with screws driven through angled pilot holes.

Join the two pieces to create the rear wall gable, screwing through the uprights on the back Side. On the outer side of the gable, slide in a filler shingle until it's even with the neighbonng shingles. Fasten the fi ller with two finish nails located above the shingle exposure line, two courses up. Attach the top filler shingle with two (exposed) galvanized finish nails.

(continued)


Position the rear gable on top of the rear wall top plates and center it from side to side. use a square or straightedge to align the angled gable supports with the angled ends of the outer plates. Fasten the gable to the plates and wall framing with screws. Assemble and install the middle gable wall.

2 16 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

Arrange the roof panels on the ground according to their installation. Flip the panels over and attach framing connectors to the rafters at the marked locations, using screws.

With one or two helpers, set the first roof panel at the rear of the shed, then set the opposing roof panel In place. Align the ridge boards of the two panels, and then fasten them together with screws. Do not fasten the panels to the walls at this stage.

Position one of the middle roof panels, aligning its outer rafter with that of the adjacent rear roof panel. Fasten the rafters together with screws. Install the opposing middle panel in the same way. Set the porch roof panels into place one at a time- these rest on a y," ledge at the front of the shed. From inside the shed, fasten the middle and porch panels together along their rafters.

Check the fit of all roof panels at the outside corners of the shed. Make any necessary adjustments. Fasten the panels to the shed with screws, starting with the porch roof Inside the shed, fasten the panels to the gable framing, then anchor the framing connectors to the wall plates.

Install the two roof gussets between the middle rafters of the shed roof panels (not the porch panels): First measure between the side walls- this should equal 91" for this kit (see resources). If not have two helpers push on the walls until the measurement matches your requirement. Hold the gussets level, and fasten them to the rafters With screws.

(continued)


Add filler shingles at the roof panel seams. Slide In the bottom shingle and fasten it above the exposure line two courses up, using two screws. Drive the screws into the rafters. Install the remaining filler shingles the same way. Attach the top shingle with two galvanized finish nails.

Add vertical trim boards to cover the wall seams and shed corners. The rear corners get a filler tllm piece, followed by a Wide tllm board on top. Add horizontal trim boards at the front wall and along the top of the door. Fasten all tllm with finish nails.

2 18 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW SH EDS

Cover the underside of the rafter tails (except on the porch) with soffit panels, fastening to the rafters with finish nails. Cover the floor framing with skirting boards, starting at the porch sides. Hold the skirting flush with the decking boards on the porch and with the siding on the walls, and fasten it with screws.

At the rear of the shed, fit the two fascia boards over the ends of the roof battens so they meet at the roof peak. Fasten the fascia with screws. Install the side fascia pieces over the rafter tails with finish nails. The rear fascia overlaps the ends of the side fascia. Cover the fascia Joints and the horizontal trim jOint at the front wall with decorative plates.

Place the two roof ridge caps along the roof peak, overlapping the caps' roofing felt In the center. Fasten the caps with screws. Install the decorative gusset gable underneath the porch roof panels using mounting clips. Finish the gable ends with two fascia pieces installed with screws.

complete the porch assembly by fastening each front handrail section to a deck post, using screws. Fasten the handrail to the corner porch post. The handrail should start 4" above the bottoms of the posts, as with the Side handrail sections. Anchor each deck post to the decking and floor frame with screws (see Drilling Counterbored Pilot Holes, this page).

Drilling Counterbored Pilot Holes ~

use a combination piloting! counterbore bit to pre-drill holes for installing posts. Angle the pilot holes at about 60', and

drive the screws Into the framing below whenever possible. The counterbore created by the piloting bit helps hide the screw head.

J


I Shed with Firewood Bin

ilh over 37 square feet of sec ure storage space and an open-air log bin that holds over a ha lf

cord of firewood, thi s shed is an especially ha ndy outbuilding for bac kyards, cabin lots, and vacm ion properties alike. Its economica l design makes it casy to

fit anywhere and also simple and inexpensive to build .

The shed's footprint measures 6 X 10ft. At the rea r s ide, the roof stands at just over 7 ft" so the shed filS nicely aga inst a standard privacy fence. I n front ,

the top of the shed ri ses to nearly 9 ft . above grade, leaving roo m fo r two full -height doors and ample

headroom inside the storage area . Th is low- profil e sha pe with no loss of usa ble space is made poss ible

by the classic shed-style roof. Shed roofs are not only c heaper to build than gables a nd o the r roof styles, they're al so much eas ier to frame and shingle (and less

likely to leak) because there's only one roof plane a nd no peak to deal with.

Another di stin ctive feature of this shed is its

timber-fra me floor. In stead of us ing a 2x fl oor frame set atop timbe r skid s, this floor has 4 x 4 timber joists integrated wi th the skid foundati on. While a

standard shed floor req uires a ste p up of a lmost 12", thi s integrated design creaLes a step of only 4 ~". An

incline of tamped grave l or a short ra mp is all yo u need

for rolling equipment right into the shed.

ISOMETRIC

.. o--_--------------- se�f. sea� shingles ::: 15# Roofing fell

VI" Roof sheeling 2 x 6 Rolters 16" O.L

::::;;t:.A;"t------------VI" Plywood shealhing

220 T i lE COM PLETE CU I[)E TO CONTEM PORA IW SHEDS

2 x 4 lookoul roffers @ends

2 . 2 x 6 Header

ti-tHI--+ I+4!-+---- Door iamb & header

+----- Dauble 2 x 4 (orner

::::"~;,J!~_--- Floor froming for lag sloroge

III-+P:oP""::;:;.~~:::-------- Tri ple 2 x 4 (orner

Provide ¥I" p~wood shim under woll

Cutting List


Foundation/Floor (omer trim at log bin 2 @ 10', 2@B' I x 6 cedar

Drainage moleriol I cu. yd. Compaclible grovel Drip edge, door slops 9@B' I x 2 cedar

Skids 2@10' 4 x 4 pressUie-lreoted & bollom Irim

landscape limbers Roofing

Floor jOisls 3@ 12' 4 x 4 pressure-treated Shealhing 3 sheels@4xB' 111- exterior-grade plywood landscape limbers (& door header spacer) roof shealhing

Bin jOisls & floor S@ 12' 2 x 4 pressure'lreoled I S# bUilding paper I roll

Corner brockels 20 @ 3W x 3W Galvanized melol Shingles 1 square Asphalt shingles- 2S0# (orner bl(]cke t per sq. min.

Shealhing 2 sheels@4xB' l/4 " tongue-&-groove Doors exl.·grode plywood Doors 2@ %x% xl ¥/ Exterior wood doors

Wall Framing Fasteners & Hardware

Bollom ploles 2@10',3@B' 2 x 4 pressure-treated 16d galvanized 10 Ibs. Top ploles 2@12',4@IO' 2 x 4 common noils

Sluds 42@B' 2 x 4 16d (ommon nails Bibs.

Door header 2@B' 2 x 6 I Od cammon nails I lb.

Bin header I @12' 2 x 6 Bd galvanized 2 Ibs.

Roof Framing common noils

Rafters 9@B' 2 x 6 Bd box nails 2 Ibs.

Exterior Finishes Bd galvanized siding nails Sibs.

Siding 2 sheels@4x9' 'fa " Texlure 1·11 Bd galvanized casing 2 Ibs.

7 sheels@4xB' plywood siding nails (Irim)

Z·floshing 20 lineor ft . Melol Z·floshing ]1/4" galvanized 2 Ibs.

Bin shealhing (oplionol) 3 sheels@4xB' '(," exl.·grode plywood rooling noils

Door hinges with screws 6@3W' Galvanized melol hinges Fascia 2@12',2@IO' I x B cedar

Corner trim 3@ 1O',3@B' I x 4 cedar Door handle w/lock

Soffil 'Ir " exl.·grode plywood Door head boll

I sheel @ 4 x B' Door fool bolt

Soffil venls (oplionol) 6@ 12" Metol louvered vents (onstruction adhesive

Door jambs & trim 6@B' I x 4 cedar

Door & panel molding B@B' 2 x 2 cedar (oplionol)

S/!ed Projects 221

Self-seal shiin a l,,~_ 15# BUilding paper 1ft" Roof sheathing 2 x 6 Rafters, 16" 0.(,

1 x 2 Roof edge trim

2· 2 x 4 Top plole

1 x 8 Fascia

*" b:l. plywd w/louver yenls

Ifi" n ·11 Siding _--1il 2 x 4 Wall studs --------=j---lI-2 x 4 Bollom plole

Treated 4 x 4 skid

3%" MIL (orner b"d"t/II"

4" Gravel bose

SECTION

FRONT FRAMING

Nolch lor (om lop plale

ma n wall I

10 '-OYo'

10'-0"

I I' I v.-, I ,

Ib--<--"" III 2-2x 4Tap plote

2- 2 x 6Heo der

i~ 2· 2 x 6Heo w/ Vt" plYWDO

layout II -II Siding

2x 4Walisi uds

yt Plywood s @ log 510rog

2 x 4 Plale

him under wall e only

4 x 4 Treated skid

*" Plywood f loar

bottom plale in (UIOUI2 x 4 doorwayafte r woll is assembled

~ "\ -

~.

222 Til E COM PLETE CU 11)E TO CONTEM POHA IW SII EJ)S

f-_ -------- V

----~

/

>~ .,; ~

0

'" ~ '" '-:.,

16' 16\ 5'- 2"

"\ ~

/ / 41f1"/

I

I

I

I ~ I ..

I 10"

~c--'

l 3%" MIL <Orne @ each corner

r bro(e

2 x 4 Treated floor joists ..........

2 x 4 Treated flooring

~. Plywood 110 or layoul

4 x 4 Treated skid -

No plywd. 1100 r in this area -

r--

1

I

I \

I

I / 8"---j

"

I iii I" I 1:"-I II

I II II~ 1

'2' -6"

-i!k /' /

Apply lI" plyw lop of 4 x 4 in thiS area

d. shim 10 /0"

REAR FRAMING

10'-OYo"

10'-0"

\\ I \\ / II

\ x\ X /

1\ \.0" 16\ 1/ 1/ 16" 16" OC \ I C O.C 0\ I

FLOOR FRAMING

10'-0"

,

ill I ,- 1\ I ,-

/ \ / \ II I \ / ~I < \

/ \ 0" 1'/ 2\ 2'i

I! / 0(\ I C

\ --.J L ---" IL -.J L ,

/

II

1\" ---

'I ,

-+

all Plywood shim under wall @ log storage only

Si!cd Projects 223

COMMON WALL FRAMING

2x 6Rafte 16"0( rs, ..

2 x 4SIUds

~

:..

""

3Y,"~1A 161ft" 16" 16" 16Y," O.t 0.(.

S' .S" J}3Y,

RIGHT SIDE FRAMING

x 4 Lookout rafter [C---u----::

- ,

2

I\~~

2 x 6 Rafters, 16" 0.(.

~

\ II I' /

I~\ ".

\ :.,

II I' 8"~

16" \ 16" ~ 0(, \ I t 0.(.

II 1\

S'·S"

224 Til E COM PLETE CUIDE TO CONTEM POHAIW SII EDS

LEFT SIDE FRAMING

t---8;!;:--:--:-~;~~~~~;~~;;t==t== 2 x 4lookolll ralter "'7 2 - 2 x 6Heoder

'-':\:Tt---+-- 2 x 4 Haunch

6'0"

FLOOR PLAN

II II II - -

F 2 x 4 Fromin 9 below = =

= *" Plywood floor

= = = (ommon wall

- - rTlrT II

d. shim .I Apply y, plyw under stud wall 01 log storage orea

Si!cd Projects 225

FRONT ELEVATION

1 x 2 Edge lrim

1 x 8 Fascia

1 x 4 (orner boards

YO II -II

2 x 2 Molding

1 x 4 Trim

I x 2 Edge tr im

1 x 8 Fosdo

RIGHT ELEVATION

1 x 4 (orner boards

YO II -II

S" Typ.

226 Til E COMPLETE CUIDE TO CONTEMPOHAIW SII EDS

REAR ELEVATION

""''' .. ~ I x SFoscio ~

~~ ~ Typ.

---------YO Il _ 1I7~ 1 x 4 (orner boards

LEFT ELEVATION

1 x 2 Edge trim

1 x 8 Fascia

YO II -II Siding on back wall only

1 x 4 (orner boa rds

2 x 4 Siud

2x 4

2x4 Bollam plate below

2 - 2 x 6 Heoder 2x 4 Blo(king

RAFTER TEMPLATE

1%"

2 x 6 Roher templale

(ullor lop plate

~. r~

4Yt

HEAD & SILL DETAIL ~S3--- 2 x 4 Ii. plol. ""''''1--_ 2 x 4 Top plate -,--2 x 4 Studs

'''1-- 2 - 2 x 6 Header W/Vl" plywood II -II Siding

1 x 4 Trim 1 x 2 Door slop Yi x Y. x m" Flush door w/2 x 2 molding 2 x 2 Molding 1 x 2 Irim under door only

4 x 4 Floor framing

%" Plywood

HEADER DETAILS

if1" Plywood rool sheathing

2" x 6" Rafter 1 x 2Roof

2" x 4" Tie plate edge trim 2" x 4" Top plate

8" Ilyp.1 1 x 8 Fascia

2 x 4 Lookout rofter, 2" x4" noiled in through bock Blocking of 2" x 6" ralter 2 - 2" x 6" Heoder fro me Bull up 10

on top of 2x 4slud

2" x 4" stud Trim or 2" x 4" siding (overing (orner studs

7' · o ~·r

2 x 6 Rafter templole

CUI for lop plate

l¥i"

DOOR DETAILS

I x 4 Irim ------------,

1 x 2 Door slop

1 x 2 Weather slop trim

@insideface of door~1 2',6" x 6' -8" x 1%" Flush door w/2 x 2 molding

2x 4SIud & cripple wall

II -II Siding

2 x 2 Molding

3·3%" x 3%" ~ Door hinges (per door)

1 x 4 Trim

CORNER DETAIL

Provide ¥t plywood shim under wall

2 x 4 Bottom plate

I-I-II Siding

2 x 4 Studs

2 x 4 Cripple stud

2 x 4 Bonom plote

1 x 4Trim

I-I-II Shim

1 x 6 Trim

Si!ed Projects 227

I How to Build the Shed with Firewood Bin

1. Prepare the foundat io n site wi th a 4" layer of

compac ted grave l. C ut the two outer 4 x 4 t imber sk ids (120" ). Pos itio n the skids on the

gravel bed so their outside edges are 72" apa rt, making sure they are level an d para lle l vv ith

one <:IIlother.

2. C ut six 4 x 4 Aoor joists (65" ) and four 2 x 4

bin jo ists (26 W'). Anc ho r the joists to the skids

with metal angles fastened with 16d galvanized common na il s, as shown in the FLOOR

FRAMING (pagc 223 ). Toc na il thc inncr bin

jo ists to the Aoor joists. All joists must be flush

with the tops of the outer skids.

3. Deck the cab in area of the shed Aou r fra me with t\VO trimmed sheets of -Y.!" plywood, as shown in the SKID FRAM ING. The sheets should be Au sh

wi th the oll ts ides of the skids and joists over the e ntire shed portion of the frame. Cover the e nds of the sk ids in the bin area with 3 Y2"-widc stri ps of

ply\vood fl oor sheathing.

4. Fra me the rear wal l as shown in the REAR

FRAM ING (page 223 ), using a treated bottom

plate and a single top plate. The studs a re 73 %"

long. In sta ll and brace the wa ll. Frame and instal l the square portion of the right side \va ll as shown

in the HIG HT S IDE FHAM ING (page 224).

Do not ins ta ll the double top p late or the rake

(angled) studs at thi s t ime. 5. Construct the fro nt wall following the FRONT

FRAM ING (page 222 ). The two studs that will

support the bin header are 761'4" long. The jack


studs in the door openi ng are 79 Y2" long, a nd the bui lt-up 2 x 6 door headcr is 65" long. Add both

top plates on the front wal l. I nsta ll the front wa ll ,

then add the double top plates on the right side

and reur \".ra ll s, overlapp ing the plutes at the right reur corner.

6. Bu ild the com mon wall in place (see the COMMON WA LL FRAM ING , page 22 4).

Cut the trea ted bottom pla te (65") and in sta ll it

Aush to thc cdgc of thc shed arca fl oo r dccking.

M itcr thc cnd of the rcar cnd stu d at 140 so the

outer edge is flush with the rear wa ll top plate. Notch the front wa ll top plates to make room fo r

the com mon wu ll top plate , plus I Yi 6 i! of the rafter depth. Cut and insta ll the top plate. Cu t and

insta ll the four studs as shown. 7. Cu t two 2 x 6s (72" ) for the hin header. C lip the

top rear corne r of each board : Mark 1 ~" down fro m the top and 4%" fro m the end; connect the marks, then cu t along the line. Join the heade r

pieces with construction adhesive and pairs of 1 ad common na il s d riven every 121!. In sta ll the header

on top of the front wa ll studs and rear wa ll top plate. Leave a I Y2 'T space between the header a nd the cnd of the rcar wall. Add 2 X 4 blocks betwcen

the header a nd front wa ll top p lates.

8. Complete the bin Aoor fo llowi ng the FLOOR

PLAN (page 225 ). Cut e ight treated 2 x 45 (65" )

und construct the th ree assem blies as shovm in the plan. Install the assemb lies using 16d ga lvan ized com mon nai ls.

9 . In sta ll plywood s id ing along the front a nd rear wa ll s as shown in th e FRO NTIHEA R F RAM ING . Trim the sheets fo r th e rea r wa ll so they run from the top of the \va ll down to 111

below the plywood fl oor sheat hing. On the front v,la ll , run full shee ts sta rt ing ] 11 be lm'v the fl oor.

Add Z-fl ashing on top of the sheets, a nd then co nti nue with strips of siding up to th e top of th e walt.

10. C ut a patte rn rafte r foll owing th e RAFTE R TEM P LAT E (page 227 ). Tes t-fit the raft e r

a nd make a ny necessa ry adjustmen ts. Use the patte rn to c ut t he eight rema in ing rafters . In stall t he ra fte rs us ing 16 11 o n-ce nter spac ing. Th e oute r ru ft e rs should be ftu sh with the sid e wa ll s.

] 1. Co mpl ete the left wa ll fram ing as sho",m in the LEFT S I DE FR AM I NG: C ut the rear en d of the 2 X 4 na ile r to fo llow the en d rafter, and insta ll it flu sh wi th the bottom edge of the bi n heade r. Cut two 2 x 4 corn er braces (24"), m itering th e

e nds at 45' . In sta ll th e braces so thei r e nds are equidista nt from the co rne rs and the ir oute r edges <:I re flu sh vv ith the naile r and \,\r<:l ll studs. I nsta ll a 2 X 4 jac k stud to fit betwee n the hin fl oor and the corner brace on each side of

the openi ng. 12. C ut a nd insta ll th e fou r ra ke studs on the

right s ide wa ll , as shown in th e RI G HT S IDE F RAM ING. Cove r the s ide walls with s iding, start ing with a full shee t at the rea r of the right side wa ll. O n the le ft s ide wall , run the siding to the in s ide edges of the bin opening. If desired,

cover the inte rio r \va ll s of the bin with Y211

exte rior plywood. 13. Add Rve 2 X 4 looko uts (7%") to eac h e nd

rafte r as shown in th e LEFT an d RI G HT SID E

F RAM ING. In stall I x 8 fa sc ia boa rds a lo ng all four s ides of the roof, fl us h with the tops of the ra fte rs. C ut strips of %11 so ffit mate rial

to enc lose the rafte r bays , beve ling the in side edges a t 14 ' . Insta ll th e soffit s so they are flu sh wi th th e outs ides of th e e nd rafte rs . Add soffit ve nti ng, if desired.

14 . Dec k t he roof with sheat hi ng, sta rti ng a t one of the lower corn ers . T he shea thing shou ld cover th e to ps of th e fascia boards. In sta ll I X 2 dri p edge a long a ll s ides of th e roof, flu sh with th e top of th e shea thin g. Add buildin g pa pe r and shingles, fo ll owing the ste ps on

page 56 . 15. Trim t he s id es an d top of th e bi n opening wi th

I X 4 a nd I X 6, as s hown in the C OR NE R

D ETA IL (page 227 ); use I X 6 a long th e top of t he open ing. Cove r the shed corn e rs with 1 x 4 trim . If desi red , c rea te decor<:ltive 2 x 2 fram es a nd a pply th e m to the s iding a nd doors (see the FRONT ELEVAT IO N, page 226 )

] 6. Prepare t he door open ing with 1 x 4 t rim as shown in th e DO O R D ETA ILS (page 227). In sta ll the doo rs us ing th ree hinges for e<:lc h . Add] x 2 stops a roun d the ope ning, plu s a t rim piece unde rn eath t he doo r. Add a I x 2 wea ther stop to the back s ide of one door. Ins ta ll door la tc h hardv,la re , as des ired. Pa int o r a pply clear

wood protec tant:.

S f! ed Projects • 229

I Additional Shed Plans

I Salt Box Storage Sheds

• Three popular sizes: 8' x 8' 12' x 8' 16' x 8'

• Wood floor on gravel base or concrete lIoor

• Height, floor to peok: 8'·2"

• Front woll height: 7'

• 6'·0" x 6'·5" double door for eosy oecess

• Complete list of moteriols

• Step-by-step instructions

16'-0" .. 12 '- 0" :>

0[: : :: I I I I I ~ I I I I Q) I I I I

I I I I l. L . __ L.J

}\.

Design #002D-4500

I Barn Storage Sheds with Loft


• Wood floor on concrete pier founda tion or concrete floor

• Height, floor to peok: 12'·10"

• Ceiling height: 7'-4"

• 4'·0" x 6' ·8" double door for eosy oecess



.-----,--------- -, , ,

r-r----------i

~O · 'D' , ~~? - N

I.' .I 12'- 0"

De sign #002D·4501

Visit vvvvvv.projectplans.com to order and view additiona l projects.

230 THE COMPLETE CUIJ) E TO CONTEMPORAIW SHEDS

I Gable Storage Sheds

• Four populor sizes: 8' x 8' 8' x 10' 8' x 12' 8' x 16'

• Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners

• Height, floor to peak: 8'-4 v,"

• Ceiling height: 7'

• 4'-0" x 6' -5" double door lor easy access

• • •

Economicol and easy-to-build shed

Complete list of materials

Step-by-step instructions

"

~ \> b~D-------i N.' 0 - 0 ,

- " ~ 8 '-OA

Design #002D-4503

I Large Gable Storage Sheds



• Height floor to peak: 8'-8 Y,"


• 4'-0" x 6'-4" double door lor easy access

• Complete list of moterials


, , .... ---------, , , '0 0 " ,

00 N , IO ~ ,

~

-'

I( I; 0-,I Design #002D-4504

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Additiollni Shed Plans 231

I Children's Playhouse

• • • • • • • • •

, o , t IX)

Size: 8' x 8'

Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners

Height, floor to peol: 9'-2"

Ceiling height: 6'-i"

2' ~eep porch

Attroctive window boxes

Includes operoble windowl

Complete lilt of moteriol,

Step-by-step inshuctions

8'-0"

Design #002D-4505

I Barn Storage Sheds

• Three popular sizes: i2' x 8' 12' x i2' i2' x i6 '

• Wood floor on concrete pier foundation or concrete floor

• Height, floor to peol: 9'-iO"

• Ceiling height: 7'-i 0"

• 5'-6" x 6' -8" double door for eolY O([ess

• Gambrel roof design

• Complete lilt of moteriol,


a -' . 5e . 1 0 ,

Co

1< i2'-0" 'I i-----------:

: ' i-----------:

: '

o Design #002D-4508

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232 THE COMPLETE CUJrlE TO CONTEMPORAIW SHEDS

I Mini-Barn Storage Sheds

• Four populor sizes: 7'3" x 6' 7'3" x B' 7'3" x 10' 7'3" x 12'

• Wood floor on 4 x 6 runners or concrete floor

• Height, floor to peol: 9'

• Ceiling height: 7'·4"

• 3'·0" x 6'·B" door

• Am"tive styling with gombrel roof



, ;r-----+, ----- - ~

9:£" 9 b, l:- Q' ------~ , ,0 ~ a:, , I

to ,.. ' i ;:

~ De sign #002D-4510

I Gable Storage Shed with Cupola

• • • • • • • •

, o , I o

Size: 12' x 10'

Wood floor on concrete piers or concrete floor

Height, floor to peol: 9'·B"

Ceiling height: 7'·4"

3'·0" x 6'·8" door

Mode of cedor plywood with bottens

Complete list of moteriols

Step·by·step instructions

12 ' -0· 1< :> I

.-i----.,

\ ~L..--V;----"--""

De sign #002D-4511

,. ~ ~~

~~" ~ to , :

~ ~ .. r " . ~.

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Addi tiolln i Shed Plans 233

I Deluxe Cabana

• Size: II'O"x 13'6"

• Conc"te floor

• Height, floor to pook: II '-7"


• Unique roof design with skylight

• Convenient dressing room and servicing oreo

• Perfect storege for poolside furniture and equipment


• Step-by-step inst/octions

11'- 0'

, <0 , I M

Design #002D-4518

I Yard Barn with Loft Storage

• • • • • • • • •

Size: 10' x 12'

Wood floor on 4 x 4 runners

Height, floor to pook: 10'-/"

Ceiling height: 6'-11"

6'-0" x 6'-2" double door for oosy oecess

Loft provides additional storage oreo

Amoetive styling is suitoble for ony yOid

Complete list of moteriols

Step-by-step inst/uctions

I'" 10'-0'

~ I

• o , I N

Design #002D-4520


234 THE COMPLETE CUJrl E TO CONTEMPORAIW SHEDS

I Garden Shed

• Size: 10' x 10'


• Height, floor to pook: 11 '-3 '1,"

• left woll height: 8'

• Wonderful complement to ony bockyord

• Perfect spoce for lown equipment or plonts ond flowers

• Plenty of windows for gordening yeor-round


• Step-by-step instluctions

10'-0' tE "t

• o I

b r-lr-lr-, t I I II I

II II I I II

Design #002D-4523

I Workroom with Covered Porch

• Size: 24' x 20'

• Building height: 13'-6"

• Roof pitch: '/11

• Ceiling height: B'

• Slob foundotion

• Eosy occess through double-door en tlY

• Interior enhanced by lorge windows

• Lorge enough for storoge

• Complete list of moteliols


{ Walk loom

1 ry l

t -. 24 '- Q"

Design #002D-7520


Additiolln i Shed Plans 235

I Resources

Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association 202-207-0917 wwwasphaltroofing.org

The Betty Mills Company 2121 S. EI Camino Real, Suite D-100 San Mateo, CA 94403 800-BettyMills wwwbettymills.com

The Big eZee Metal Kit Sheds 101 N. Fourth St Breese, IL 62230 800-851-1085

Cedar Shake & shingle Bureau 604-820-7700 wwwcedarbureau.org

Certified Wood Products Council 503-224-2205 wwwcertifiedwood.org

HDA, Inc. Designs: Clerestory Studio (p. 86 to 99), sunlight Garden

Shed (p. 100 to 113), Convenience Shed (p. 124 to 137), Service Shed (p. 192 to 201), Shed with Firewood Bin (p. 220 to 229)

St Louis, MO 800-373-2646/ plan sales 314-770-2228/ technical assistance www.houseplansandmore.com

Photo Credits

Photo courtesy of The Betty Mills Company p. 204 (top)

Photo courtesy of Finley Products Inc. p. 205

Dennis Henderson p. 16, 17 (top & lower)

Douglas Keister p. 14 (lower)

Photo courtesy of DuraMAX p. 11 (lower left)

Clive Nichols p. 11 (lower right), 15, 18 (lower), 19


Paint Quality institute wwwpaintquality.com

Simpson Strong-Tie Co. 800-999-5099 wwwstrongtie.com

Southern Pine Council Designs by Bruce Pierce: Simple Storage Shed (p. 154 to

165), Gothic Playhouse (p. 166 to 179) Kemer, LA www southernpine.com

DuraMAX Available at the Betty Mills Company 800-BettyMills wwwbettymills.com

Finley products, Inc. 1018 New Holland Ave. Lancaster, PA 17601 888-626-5301 www.2x4basics.com

Summerwood Products 735 Progress Avenue Toronto, Ontario M1 H 2W7 Canada 866-519-4634 www.summerwood .com

Dency Kane p. 8 (lower right), 9 (top)

Eric Roth p. 6, 13 (lower), 14 (top)

Jerry pavia p. 9 (lower), 12 (top & lower), 13 (top)

Photos courtesy of Summerwood Outdoors, Inc. p. 8 (top & lower left), 10 (top & lower), 11 (top), 18 (top),

62 (left & right), 204 (lower)

Photo courtesy of Spirit Elements p. 203

Metric Conversion Charts

Converting Measurements To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by:

Inches Millimeters 2\.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039

Inches Centime ters 2.\4 Centimeters Inches 0.394

Feet Meters 0.30\ Meters Feet 3.28

Yords Meters 0.914 Meters Yords 1.09

Square inches Squore centimeters 6.4 \ Square centimeters Square inches 0.1\5

Squore fee t Square meters 0.093 Square meters Squore feet 10.8

Squore yords Square meters 0.836 Square meters Squore yords 1.2

Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic in ches 0.061

Cubic fee t Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 3\ .3

Cubic yords Cubic meters OJ 6\ Cubic meters Cubic ords 1.31

Pounds Kilograms 0.4\4 Kilograms Pounds 2.2

Lumber Dimensions Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric

I x 2 3f4 x 1111 19x38mm 2 x 3 11/1 X 2111 38x64mm

I x 3 % X 21/1 19x64mm 2 x 4 11/1 X 31J2 38 x 89 mm

I x 4 % x 3111 19 x 89 mm 2 x 6 11/1 X 5111 38 x 140 mm

I x \ % X 41/1 19x114mm 2 x 8 11/2 X 7if. 38 x 184 mm

Ix6 % x 51/1 19x140mm 2 x 10 11/1 X 9V. 38 x 235mm

I x 7 3f4 X 61/4 19x1S9mm 2 x 12 1V1 x 11 V. 38 x 286 mm

Ix8 3f4 x 7if. 19x184mm 4 x 4 31/1 X 3V1 89x89mm

I x 10 31. X 91/. 19 x 23S mm 4 x 6 31/1 X 51/7 89 x 140 mm

I x 12 0/. x 1 P/4 19 x 286 mm 6 x 6 51/1 X 51/] 140 x 140 mm

2 x 2 l V1 xPh 38x38mm 8 x 8 7 1~ X 7''1. 184 x 184 mm

Metric Plywood Counterbore, Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters Standard Sheathing Grade Sanded Grade Counterbore Clearance Pilot Hole Diameter Screw 7.S mm ( 1~ 6") 6 mm ('M) Diameter for Hole for

Size Screw Shank Hard Wood Soft Wood

9.\ mm (3;a") 8 mm (1~6 " ) Screw Head

#1 .146 (%,) '/64 %4 1/32

12.\ mm (1;/') II mm e~ 6") #2 y, %1 %4 Vn 1\.\ mm (1/8") 14mm (9~6") #3 y, 7/.4 1/16 %.

18.5 mm ('14") 17 mm (2/3") # y, '/, YH %.

20.\ mm (131i6") 19 mm ('14") #5 y, '/, %4 IA.

#6 VI. %. %2 Y •• 22.5 mm (7;,") 21 mm (13~ 6") #7 VI6 '/31 %2 '/.4

2\ .5 mm (I") 24 mm (111i6") #8 % 11/64 y, %1 #9 % 11/64 y, 3/31

#10 % VI. y, %4 #11 y, Vi. Vl1 %4 #12 '/' %2 %. ,/,

I\"elric Cml1'erSiOIl Charts • 237

I Index

A Accessories

ideas for, 12 kits and, 10

Aluminum hardware, 27 Anatomy of sheds, 26 Angles, marking, 47 Approvals needed, 21 Asian style, 15 Asphalt shingles, 52, 56-57 Attached sheds, 11

B Barn storage shed plans, 230, 232-233, 234 Barn storage sheds with loft, 230 Basic storage shed

building, 162-165 considerations, 154-155 cutting list, 156 drawings, 157-161

Bird's mouth cuts, 48 Board lumber, 27 Building codes

building department approval, 21 foundations and, 28 siting and, 22

Building paper, installing on roofing, 55 Building section drawings, 24

C Cabana plan, 234 Cedar

advantages, 27 roof shingles, 52, 58-59 shingle ideas, 14, 18

Children's playhouses. See Playhouses Clerestory studio

building, 95- 99 cutting list, 88 drawings, 89-94 overview of, 86-87

Closet sheds. See Lean-to tool bin Collar ties, 47 components of sheds, 26 Concrete

building block foundations, 30-31 building pier foundations, 32- 35 building slabs foundations, 36-39 estimating amount needed, 39 foundations and permanent structure

classification, 22 lumber for slab foundations, 42 pouring tips, 39

construction (CON5n Grade No.2 lumber, 27

Construction drawings, working with, 24- 25

construction stages, 26 convenience shed

building, 133-137 cutting list, 126

drawings, 127-132 overview of, 124-125

Costs and size, 18 counterbored pilot holes, drilling, 219 Country style

exteriors, 9, 180 interiors, 13, 181

Cupola, plan for gable storage shed with,233

D Deluxe cabana plan, 234 Dimensions of lumber, 27 Doors

building platforms to, 82-83 building ramps to, 74-77 building stairs to, 79-81

Gothic, 166, 167 homemade, 73 installing flashing above, 73 installing prehung, 72 installing trim, 68 placement of, 8

Dormers, 8 Drainage and siting, 22 Drawings, working with construction,

24-25 Drilling counterbored pilot holes, 219

E Elevations (drawings), 25

F Fasteners, 27 Finishes, 27 Finish lumber, 27 Firewood bin shed

building, 228-229 cutting list. 221 drawings, 220, 222- 227 overview of, 220

Firewood seasoning shed building, 198-200 considerations, 192-193 cutti ng list, 194 drawings, 195-197

Flashing above doors & windows, installing, 73

Floors framing, 40-41 installing plywood, 41

Foundations building codes and, 28 building concrete block, 30-31 building concrete pier, 32-35 building concrete slab, 36-39 building wooden skid, 28-29 taxes and, 22

Framing connectors used, 27 floors, 40-41

238 • THE COM PLETE GUIDE TO CONTEM PORA IW 5HEDS

lumber for, 27 roofs, 46- 51 walls, 42-45

Frost lines, 28

G Gable roofs

described, 47 fascia on, 52 framing, 51

Gable storage shed plans, 231, 233 Galvanized steel hardware, hot-dipped, 27 Gambrel garage shed

building, 148-153 cutting list, 140 drawings, 141- 147 overview of, 138-139

Gambrel roofs described, 47, 139 fascia on, 52 framing, 51

Garden shed plan, 235 Gothic playhouse

building, 175-179 considerations, 166-167 cutting list, 168 drawings, 169-174

Gothic style architecture, 166 Greenhouses

building, 109-113 cutting list, 102 drawings, 103-108 ideas for, 19 overview of, 100-101

Guest houses, 16-17

H Hardware

described, 27 for metal roofing, 60 used on siding, 62

Hip roofs, described, 47 Holes, pre-drilling, 219 Homemade doors & windows, 73 Horizontal siding

installing, 63-64 trim and, 68

Hot-dipped galvanized steel hardware, 27

K Kit sheds

considerations, 202-203, 205 custom details with, 8, 10 See a/so Metal kit sheds; Wood kit sheds

Knotty pine paneling ideas, 13, 180

L Large gable storage shed plan, 231 Lean-to tool bin

building, 121-123 cutting list, 116

drawings, 117-120 overview of, 114-115

Lumber, 27

M Metal anchors, 27 Metal kit sheds

anchoring, 211 assembling, 206-211 considerations, 202, 204-205 maintaining, 211

Metal roofing, 52, 60-61 Mini-barn storage shed plan, 233

N Nailing techniques, 40 Nail types, 40 Neighbors and shed siting, 22 New England style, 16-17 Notched-stringer stairs, building, 80-81

o Overhead plan views, 25

p

Patios, integrating sheds with, 11, 18 pier foundations

advantages, 32 building concrete, 32-35 permanent structure classification

and,22 Plans

barn storage sheds, 230, 232-233,234

deluxe cabana, 234 gable storage shed, 231 gable storage shed with cupola, 233 garden shed, 235 large gable storage shed, 231 mini-barn storage shed, 233 playhouse, 232 working with, 24-25 workroom with covered porch, 235 yard barn with loft storage, 234

Plan views (drawings), 25 Platforms, building, 82-83 Playhouses

building, 175- 179 considerations, 166- 167 cutting list, 168 drawings, 169-174 plan, 232

Plywood exterior grade, 27 installing floors, 41 install ing siding, 65

Prehung doors & windows, installing, 70-72

Pressure-treated lumber, 27, 42 Primers, 27 Privacy, 7

R Rafters, 47 Rafter ties, 47 Ramps

building, 75-77 considerations, 74

Roofs fin ishing overhangs, 69 framing, 46-51 install ing fascia, 53-54 install ing sheathing & building paper, 55 install ing vents, 58 knotty pine sheathing, 13 materials for, 52 overhangs, 11 styles, 47

Rubber washered nails & screws, 60

S Saltbox storage shed

ideas for, 12 plan, 230

"seaside" sheds, 14 Seasonal changes and siting, 23 Select Structural (SEL STR) lumber, 27 Service shed

building, 198-201 considerations, 192 cutting list. 194 drawings, 195- 197

Setback requirements and siting, 22 Shade

greenhouses and, 101 overhangs for, 11

Sheathing install ing on roofing, 55 knotty pine, 13 for roof decks, 180

Shed anatomy, 26 Shed roofs, described, 47 Siding

considerations, 62 install ing horizontal, 63-64 install ing plywood, 65 install ing tongue & groove, 66-67 trim and, 68

Sites, choosing, 22-23, 101 Skid foundations

building, 28-29 permanent structure classification

and,22 Slopes of roofs, 47 Soil and Siting, 22 Speed squares, 47 Stages of construction, 26 Stainless steel hardware, 27 Stairs

building, 79-81 calculating size of step, 79 considerations, 78 stepped platforms as, 83

Standard (STAND) lumber, 27 Stick framing

described, 40 tongue & groove siding and, 66-67

Storage shed, basic building, 162-165 considerations, 154-155 cutting list, 156 drawings, 157- 161

STUD lumber, 27 Sunlight and siting, 23 Sunrooms, 18

T Taxes, 22 Timber-frame shed

building, 187-191 considerations, 180-181 cutting list, 182 drawings, 183- 186

Trim considerations, 62 installing, 68

Trusses, custom, 47

U uses,S,7 Utility lines and siting, 22 Utility (UTIL) grade lumber, 27

V vents, installing roof. 58

W Walls, framing, 42-45 Windows

box bay, 124 clerestory, 86-87

Gothic, 166 homemade, 73 installing flash ing above, 73 installing prehung, 70-71 install ing trim, 68 sheltering with overhangs, 11

Wooden skid foundations building, 28-29 permanent structure classification

and,22 Wood kit sheds

building, 212-219 considerations, 202-205 ideas for, 8, 10

workroom with covered porch plan, 235

y

Yard barn with loft storage plan, 234

Z zoning laws and Siting, 22

Illdex • 239

CNiIIIw P\jJIlshlng inll!mational

CREATIVE PUBLISHING international

Complete Guide to Attics & Basements

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Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Contemporary Sheds: Complete plans for 12 Sheds, Including...

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