Bird Feeder Plan

From Woodsmith Magazine page 2 of 9 ©2003 August Home PublishingOne copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited. All rights reserved

Several years ago, I helped afriend side his house withcedar shingles. The job

took time, but it sure lookedgreat when we were done.

SMALL SHINGLES. I remem-bered that look as I was browsingthrough a local hobby store.Hanging on a display rack werebags of scaled-down cedar shin-gles (for dollhouses). It occurredto me that they would make anattractive siding for a bird feederI’d been planning.

Fortunately, the cedar shin-gles I used on this bird feederdidn’t take nearly as long to applyas the full-size versions on myfriend’s house.

COPPER ROOF. Another eye-catching feature of the birdfeeder is the real copper roof.

After spending some time out-doors, the roof will take on theattractive green patina that’s typ-ical of aged copper.

Making the copper roofdoesn’t require any special met-alworking equipment. The roofis actually made of plywoodwrapped with a thin copper foil.The foil can be found at manyhobby stores. Or you can ordera hardware kit from WoodsmithProject Supplies that includesthe shingles and the copper foil.Call 1-800-444-7527 for moredetails about this.

OPTIONS. If you’d like a dif-ferent look for the feeder, youcan put square shingles on theroof instead of copper and makeclapboard siding for the ends.Details for this version are

found in the Designer’sNotebook on page 8.

EASY FILLING. With mostfeeders, you lift the top to fill itwith seed. But since I wanted tomount mine on a pole, thatmethod wouldn’t work very well.Instead, the roof stays attached tothe top of the pole while thebottom drops down to allow youto pour in more seed (see insetphoto). A pin through the poleholds the feeder at the properheight for filling. Once the feederis full, a second hole higher onthe pole accepts the pin to holdthe feeder in place under the roof.

CEDAR. I used cedar for all ofthe solid wood portions of thefeeder. Since the ends are cov-ered with shingles, I used exte-rior-grade plywood there.

Plans N O Ww w w . p l a n s n o w . c o m

®

BIRD FEEDERCedar shingles and copper roofing make this an attractive addition to any yard.

When it's time to refill, simply lowerthe main housing on the pole for easyaccess to the seed compartment.


M

K

L

N

G

E

C

B

A

F

H

JI

ROOF CAP

UPPER ROOFPANEL

UPPER ROOFTRIM

DIVIDEREND

DDIVIDER

SIDE

ROOFBLOCK

ACRYLICPLASTIC

SEEDSTOP

COPPERSHEETING

PERCH

ENDFISH SCALESHINGLES

SQUARE CEDARSHINGLESTRIM

STRIP

QUICKRELEASE PIN

GALVANIZEDPIPE

BASE

DIVIDERBOTTOM

LOWERROOFTRIM

LOWERROOFPANEL

PIPEFLANGE

WASHER

BDIVIDER

TOP

#8 1 " FWOODSCREWS

x h!/4

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:12W x 12D x 121/2H

CUTTING DIAGRAM

WOODA Base (1) 3/4 x 12 - 12B Div. Top/Btm. (2) 3/4 x 11/4 - 101/2C Divider Ends (2) 3/4 x 11/4 - 61/2D Divider Sides (2) 1/2 ply - 8 x 101/2E Ends (2) 1/2 ply - 11 x 111/2F Trim Strips (4) 1/4 x 3/4 - 6 roughG Seed Stops (2) 1/2 x 3/4 - 101/2H Perches (2) 1/2 x 11/4 - 12I Lwr. Roof Panels (2) 1/2 ply - 5 x 14J Lwr. Roof Trim (4) 1/4 x 11/4 - 12K Upr. Roof Panels (2) 1/2 ply - 57/8 x 13L Upr. Roof Trim (4) 1/4 x 11/4 - 61/2M Roof Cap (1) 3/4 x 3/4 - 13N Roof Block (1) 11/2 x 4 - 9

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(12) No. 8 x 11/4" Fh woodscrews(8) No. 10 x 1" Fh woodscrews(40) No. 16 x 1" brass escutcheon pins(16) No. 17 x 3/8" copper tacks(1 bag) Square cedar shingles(1 bag) Fish scale cedar shingles(4) 40 ga. smooth copper sheets (12" x19")(2) 1/8"acrylic plastic (6" x 12")(1) 1/4"-dia. x 13/4" quick release pin(1) 11/8"-I.D. washer(2) Pipe flanges(1) Galvanized pipe

MATERIALS LIST

1 6 ( 5 ) - 48 CEDAR (2 B . F .)x x d t#/4 !/2

EXTERIOR PLYWOOD -!/2" 24 48x

1 6 (x #/4 !/25 ) - 48 CEDAR (2 B . F .)x d t

N NHH

B B C C

JJJJ

LLLL

A

E

K

K

I

I

ED D

A AG

FF

M


BASE

I began work on the bird feeder bymaking a 3/4"-thick base (A). This is justa glued-up 12"-square blank of cedar withbeveled edges (Figs. 1 and 1a).

Note: Since the feeder is going to beexposed to the weather, I used two typesof water-resistant glue for assembly. Formost of the bird feeder, I used an exte-rior-grade yellow glue. Epoxy will beused later when the shingles areattached.

After cutting the base to size, the nextstep is to drill a 11/8"-dia. hole in thecenter for a support pipe. While I was atit, I also drilled the shank holes forattaching the center divider which isadded next.

Note: Cedar splinters easily, so makesure you back up the base with a pieceof scrap before drilling the holes.

CENTER DIVIDER. The center dividerseparates thefeeder into twosections. (Thislets me put dif-ferent types ofseed in eachhalf.) It also pro-vides a way toattach the sidesof the feederlater. Thedivider consistsof a top/bottom

(B) and two ends (C) that are sand-wiched between two sides (D).

Here again I used cedar, but only forthe top, bottom, and ends. For the sidesI used 1/2" exterior-grade plywood. Andto make the opening wider so it’s easierto fill the feeder, I beveled the top edgesat a 45° angle (Fig. 1b).

After gluing the center dividertogether, the next step is to drill cen-tered holes for the support pipe to passthrough (Fig. 2). The only problem isthe drill bit is shorter than the divider. Sothe holes have to be drilled from boththe top and the bottom. To do this, I setup a fence and stop block on the drillpress. After drilling through the top, flipthe divider over and drill through thebottom. Keep the same end against thestop block or the holes may not alignwith each other.

DIVIDER INSTALLATION. After the holeshave been drilled, the divider can bescrewed to the base. Just be sure thedivider is positioned square on the base

BASE

NOTE: ALL PIECES(EXCEPT SIDES)ARE MADE FROM

"-THICK CEDAR#/4

BEVELEDGE 15°

BEVELEDGE 45°

CENTERDIVIDER

TOP10!/2

#/4

6!/2SIDE

( " EXTERIORPLYWOOD)!/2

8

1!/4END

BOTTOM

CENTERED1 "-DIA.

HOLE!/8

#/16"SHANKHOLE

12

3!/2

10!/2

B

C

B

D

A12

1!/4

1CROSS SECTION

CUT 15° BEVEL ONEDGES OF BASE

BASEA

a.

!/2"-THICKEXTERIORPLYWOOD

45°BEVEL

SIDED

b.

STOP BLOCK

1 " SPADE BIT!/8

CENTERDIVIDER

FENCE

DRILL CENTEREDHOLE THROUGHTOP ANDBOTTOM

2

1!/2

CENTERDIVIDER

BASE

ENDPIECES

SPACERNOTE:END PIECES ARECUT FROM "-THICKEXTERIOR PLYWOOD

!/2

#8 1 " FWOODSCREWS

x h!/4

CENTER END PIECESON DIVIDER ANDSCREW IN PLACE

6!/2

A

E

4END PIECE LAYOUT

%/8

11

11!/2

1!/2

2#/4

3!/8

3!/8

1%/8

5#/4

4

a.

CENTERDIVIDER

ALIGN HOLES INCENTER DIVIDER

WITH HOLESON BASE

#8 1 " FWOODSCREW

x h!/4

3

ALIGN HOLES INDIVIDER AND BASE

A

Da.


and the holes in the divider and basealign (Figs. 3 and 3a). (An easy way toalign the holes is to run a length of pipethrough them.)

END PIECES. After attaching the dividerto the base, work can begin on the endpieces. I started by cutting a blank foreach end piece (E) from 1/2"-thick exte-rior-grade plywood (Fig. 4a). After layingout the shape on one blank, I fastenedboth blanks together with carpet tape.Then I cut both pieces at once on theband saw (or you could use a jig saw).This ensured that both pieces were iden-tical.

Before the end pieces can be attachedto the divider, there are a couple of thingsto do. First, two shallow grooves are cuton the inside face of each end piece.These grooves will be used to hold the1/8"-thick acrylic plastic panels that createeach food compartment. It’s easy to cutthem on the table saw (Figs. 5 and 5a).

Second, to hold the panels at the cor-rect height for the seed to flow out Iglued 1"-long spacers at the bottom ofeach groove (Fig. 5b).

Once the spacers are in, center theend pieces (E) on the base (A) and clampthem in place. After drilling shank andpilot holes, secure the ends to the dividerwith screws (Fig. 4).SHINGLES & TRIM

STAGGERJOINT LINESBETWEENROWS

CENTERLINE

SQUARE CUTSHINGLES

#/4

EPOXY SHINGLES IN PLACEONE ROW AT A TIME

LAYOUTLINE

The angled sides of the feederposed a challenge when it cametime to install the shingles. Icouldn’t use the slanted edgesas vertical reference points. So Idecided to lay the shingles byworking outward from a verticalcenterline (see drawing).

I also marked layout lines tohelp maintain a 3/4" spacingfrom the bottom of one course(row) to the bottom of the next(see drawing). Once the lines aredrawn, the bottom row of shin-gles can be glued in place.

Note: Because of its strengthand gap-filling abilities, I usedquick-set (5-minute) epoxy toattach the shingles.

With the first course com-plete, you can lay an overlap-ping second course. Work your

TRIM STRIP( " THICK)!/4

#/4

FISH SCALESHINGLES

SQUARE-CUT SHINGLES

6(ROUGH)

CUT TRIMBOARD TO MATCHROOF ANGLE

F

6

ENDPIECE

CUT GROOVES PARALLELTO SIDES OF END PIECES

E

5

After attaching the end pieces, I addedthe shingles. I used two different stylesof cedar dollhouse shingles for thisproject. The lower section has typicalsquare-cut shingles. But I wanted some-thing different for the gable area, so hereI used fish scale (half-round) shingles(Fig. 6). I found both types at a localhobby shop. They are also included inthe hardware kit offered by WoodsmithProject Supplies. Call 1-800-444- 7527for information. There are a few tricksthat will help you align the shingles prop-erly. The Shop Tip below shows you how.

TRIM STRIPS. Finally, to cover theexposed edges of the sides and shingles,I attached 1/4"-thick trim strips (F), usinga water-resistant glue (Fig. 6). Since theangles make it tough to secure thesepieces with clamps, I just held the stripsin place with my hands until the glue

became tacky.

END

!/8

!/4

1#/8

GROOVEFOR ACRYLICPLASTIC PANEL

E

a.ENDPIECE

1!/8" !/8"SPACER

x

Eb.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Attaching Shinglesway up the side, one course at a time,overlapping each course as you go.

There are just a few tips to keep inmind. First, I found it easiest to let theend shingles hang over the edge, andthen come back and trim them flushwith a utility knife (see photo).

Second, the shingles look best ifthey’re staggered between courses(just like real shingle siding). To dothis, it’s simply a matter of shiftingeach alternating course half ashingle’s width from the courseimmediately below it.


SEED STOPS & PERCHES

Before starting work on the copper roofsof the feeder, there are a few things thatneed to be done.

First, to create the outer walls of thefood compartments, I cut two pieces ofacrylic plastic to fit in the grooves in theend pieces (Figs. 7 and 7b).

SEED STOP. Next, to prevent bird seedfrom spilling out, I added a seed stop(G) to each side. To make these stops, Irounded over one edge of an oversizeblank of 1/2"-thick cedar. Then I rippedthe blank to a finished width (height) of3/4" (Fig. 7b). Finally, cut the seed stopsto fit between the ends (F) of the feederand glue them in place (Figs. 7 and 7b).

PERCHES. The last pieces to add to thebase are the perches (H). These 11/4"-wide pieces are made the same way asthe seed stops. Then they’re trimmed tomatch the length of the base (12") andglued and nailed in place with brassescutcheon pins (Figs. 7 and 7b).

LOWER ROOF

Now you can move on to one of the mosteye-catching features of this feeder: thecopper-covered roof panels. (For sometips on working with copper, see theWoodworker’s Notebook on page 6.)

LOWER ROOF PANELS. I started withthe lower roof panels (I) (Fig. 7). Theseare 1/2" plywood cut to a finished size of5" x 14" with a roundover routed on one

ACRYLIC PLASTICPANEL

#/8" COPPERTACK

1" BRASSESCUTCHEON

PIN

1" BRASSESCUTCHEON

PIN

1" BRASSESCUTCHEON

PIN

SEEDSTOP

LOWERROOFPANEL

PERCH

12

11

14

G

H

I

7

!/2" ROUNDOVER

!/2

LOWER ROOF PANEL

5

Ia.

!/8"-THICKACRYLICPLASTIC

1!/4

PERCH5#/4

BASESPACER!/2

SEEDSTOP

#/4

G

H

b.

LOWER ROOF PANEL STOP BLOCK

AUXILIARYFENCE

I

8

LOWERROOFPANEL

I

APPLY TWO COATSOF SPRAY ADHESIVE

TO PANEL AND COPPER

9

LOWER ROOF TRIM

NOTE:PLANE ORRESAW STOCKFOR ROOF TRIMTO " THICK!/4 1" BRASS

ESCUTCHEON PIN

LOWERROOFPANEL

I J10

edge (Fig. 7a). Then, to create the lookof “seams” in the roof, I cut six evenly-spaced kerfs in the top side of each piece(Figs. 8 and 8a).

The copper foil that covers the roof istrimmed 1/4" longer (141/4") than the roofpanels. Then, after applying spray adhe-sive, I wrapped the copper around the

LOWER ROOF PANEL

!/8

2

!/8" KERF

I

2

a.

#17 " COPPER TACKx #/8

TACK EDGE IN PLACE

a.

FOLD OVERCOPPER ENDSb.

LOWER ROOF TRIM!/4

#/41!/4

5#/4%/8" RAD. #/8" RAD.

a.

ROOF PANEL

LOWER ROOF TRIM

POSITION TRIM FLUSH WITHBOTTOM FACE OF PANEL

I

Jb.


roof starting at the top edge and tackedthe foil in place with copper tacks (Figs.9 and 9a). Next, trim any excess andfold over the ends (Fig. 9b). After thecopper is fastened to the roof, lightlypress the copper into the kerfs with adowel to make the “seams” (see thephoto below).

LOWER ROOF TRIM. To complete thepanels, I added lower roof trim (J) toeach end (Fig. 10). These pieces are 1/4"-thick cedar attached with epoxy andescutcheon pins flush to the bottom edgeof each panel (Fig. 10b).

Once the lower panels are complete,they’re centered over the ends of thefeeder and nailed in place.

UPPER ROOF

Like the lower roof, the upper roof ismade up of two plywood panels. But thistime, these pieces are glued together toform an L-shaped assembly. To do this,I started by cutting the upper roof panels(K) to finished size (57/8" x 13") with a45° bevel on each top edge (Figs. 11and 11a). Then I routed a roundoveralong the other edge.

Since the upper roof panels are nar-rower than the lower roof panels, theouter kerfs are spaced a bit differentlythan those on the lower roof (Fig. 11b).This is so the kerfs will line up betweenthe upper and lower roof. Once thesekerfs are cut, the two upper roof panelscan be glued together.

COPPER. As with the lower roof, trimthe copper 1/4" longer (131/4") than theupper roof panels. After applying sprayadhesive, I wrapped the upper roof,

DRIVE COPPERTACKS THROUGHTOP LAYER OF COPPERAT PEAK OF ROOF

NOTE: TRIM COPPERSHEETS SLIGHTLYLONGER THAN ROOF,THEN FOLD ENDS OVER

COPPERTACK12

13

1" BRASSESCUTCHEON

PIN

ROOF CAPUPPER

ROOF TRIM

UPPERROOFPANEL

LM

K

11

UPPER ROOF TRIM

45°

!/2

5&/8UPPER ROOF PANEL

L

K

TOP VIEW

2

1!/2

UPPERROOF

LOWERROOF

NOTE: UPPER ROOF KERFSSPACED 1 " FROM ENDS AND

2" APART ON CENTER!/2

22

starting at the underside of the peak(Fig. 12a). Wrap the first sheet of copperaround one side until it overlaps the peak.Then, use a second piece to wrap the

opposite side of the roof. Now tack theedge of the copper in place (Fig. 12).Finally, create the decorative “seams”(see the photo below).

END VIEW

NOTE: COPPER SHEETSOVERLAP ROOF RIDGE

a.

a.

b.

The 40-gauge copper foil used on thebird feeder roof is about the samethickness as the heavy-duty aluminumfoil you’d use in the kitchen. Thismakes it easy to bend, shape and cutit without specialized tools.

You can trim copper foil easily witha pair of scissors. And since it’s so pli-able, it can be fastened to a surfaceusing just a spray adhesive. (I usedtwo coats on each surface whenattaching the copper to the bird feeder

roof.) Since the feeder would be out inthe elements, I also used tacks to holdthe copper in place.

Note: One thing to be aware of isthat you shouldn’t use steel brads ornails to secure any type of copper. Thecontact between the copper and steelforms a small electric current. Thisisn’t dangerous to you (or to thebirds), but it will eat away at the nailuntil it dissolves. Instead, use onlycopper or brass fasteners.

COPPER FOIL

The grooves in the roof simulate theseams between copper panels on full-sized buildings. On the bird feeder, the“seams” are created by using a dowel topress the copper foil into the kerfs cutearlier in the roof panel.

WOODWORKER S NOTEBOOK


UPPER ROOF TRIM. The next step is toattach the upper roof trim (L) (Fig. 13).These pieces are constructed the sameas those on the lower roofs except oneend of each is mitered (Fig. 13a). Thenthey’re nailed and epoxied to the ends ofthe roof.

ROOF CAP. To cover the seam andtacks, I made a roof cap (M). It’s a 3/4"-thick piece cut in an L-shape (Fig. 13).

To do this, first use a table saw anddado blade to make a 5/8"-wide by 5/8"-deep rabbet on one edge of an oversizedblank (Fig. 13b). Then rip the roof capfree (Fig. 13c). Now cut it to match thelength of the roof ridge (13") and epoxyit in place.

MOUNTING

To refill this bird feeder, you don’tremove the roof, as you might expect.Instead, the upper roof is mounted tothe top of a support pipe that passesthrough the hole in the base of thefeeder. When it’s time to add more bird-seed, all you have to do is drop the baseof the feeder.

ROOF BLOCK. To attach the upper roofto the end of the pole, I made a roof block(N). This is just two 3/4"-thick pieces ofcedar glued together and beveled on theedges to fit under the roof (Fig. 14).

Then I screwed a pipe flange to thebottom of the roof block. This flangeallows the roof to be screwed to thethreaded end of the support pole.

Before attaching the roof block under-neath the roof, I removed a portion ofthe copper foil with a utility knife (Fig.14b). Then I glued the block to the roofwith epoxy, making sure that the blockwas centered.

SUPPORT POLE. To assemble thefeeder, simply slip a piece of pipe throughthe hole in the base of the feeder. (I useda 6'-long, 3/4"-I.D. galvanized pipe.) Thenscrew the pipe into the flange on theupper roof.

Note: Ask to have the pipe threadedat both ends when you purchase it.

The feeder itself is held up with awasher and removable locking pininserted through a hole drilled in thepipe. To locate the position for drilling thehole, hold the feeder up against the roof(Fig. 14). A second hole drilled belowthe first allows you to reposition the pinand drop the feeder down to refill it withbirdseed.

To mount the pole, I screwed a

13

1" BRASS ESCUTCHEON PINS

INSTALL ROOF TRIM FIRST,THEN CUT ROOF CAPTO FIT BETWEEN THEM

ROOF CAP

UPPERROOFTRIM

L

M

13

CENTERDIVIDER

#10 1"F WOODSCREW

xh

PIPE FLANGE

PIPE FLANGE

SECONDPIN HOLE

LOCKING PIN #/4"-I.D.GALVANIZED PIPE

WASHER

ROOFBLOCK

N

PRESSURE-TREATED POST

14

second pipe flange onto the end of ashort, pressure-treated post. I mountedthe post in a hole with ready-mix con-

crete, and then screwed the pole into theflange (Fig. 14). ■

1!/4

!/4

45°

6!/2

#/4

UPPER ROOF TRIMa.

AUX.FENCE

DADOBLADE

FENCE%/8

#/4

BLANK FORROOF CAP

%/8

b.

BLANKFOR ROOF

CAP

CUT ROOFCAP FROM

BLANK

#/4c.

WASHER

DRILL HOLETHROUGH

PIPE

PIN

INSERT PINTO HOLD FEEDER

IN PLACE

BASEOF FEEDER

a.

REMOVECOPPER

4

9

45°ANGLE

PIPEFLANGE

UPPER ROOF

ROOFBLOCK

N

b.


Just a few cosmetic changes give this version of the Bird Feeder a different look. It’s built the same asthe original, except that strips of siding are used on the ends and square shingles are used on the roof.

&/8

#/4

#/4

USE EPOXYTO GLUE SHINGLES

FASCIA

NOTE: FIRSTCOURSE OF SHINGLESOVERHANGS FASCIA

QP

35#/4

4!/2 !/4

6!/4

5!/8

UPPER ROOF DETAIL

LOWER ROOF DETAIL

P

Q

LOWERFASCIA

UPPERFASCIA

2

END

SIDING IS BUTTEDEDGE TO EDGE

NOTE:TRIM SIDING

FLUSH WITH ENDAFTER GLUE DRIES

O

E

SIDING( THICK)!/8"

1!/4

12

1

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:■ For this variation of the Bird Feeder,construction is the same until it’s time toapply the siding on the ends.■ After the end pieces (E) have been fas-tened to the divider, cut the siding strips(O) (Fig. 1).■ The clapboard siding is butted edgeto edge (Fig. 1). Start by gluing thebottom strip in place, leaving an over-hang on each end. Then butt the nextstrip in place. As you work up to the nar-rower top portion, cut one long strip tomake two shorter siding strips.■ Once the glue has dried on the siding,trim them flush with the edge of the endpieces. Then attach the trim strips (F).■ The roof panels (I, K) are cut slightlynarrower to allow for a fascia strip addedlater and the overhang of the shingles(Fig. 2). You won’t need to cut the dec-orative kerfs. ■ A fascia strip (P, Q) is attached to eachroof panel to hide the plywood edge (Fig.2). These 1/4"-thick strips are wider thanthe thickness of the plywood and have a5° bevel cut on one edge (Fig. 2a). Thisraises the bottom row of shingles slightly. ■ Glue the fascia flush with the bottomedge of the roof panels (Fig. 2). ■ Lay out and fasten the shingles to theroof the same way you would have forthe siding on the regular Bird Feeder.The bottom row should begin 7/8" fromthe outside face of the fascia (Fig. 3).Space the remaining courses 3/4" apart.■ Now cut the upper roof trim (L) tolength (61/4") and glue it in place (Fig. 2).

CLAPBOARDBIRD FEEDER

CHANGED PARTSI Lower Roof Panels (2) 1/2 ply - 41/2 x 14K Upper Roof Panels (2) 1/2 ply - 51/8 x 13 L Upper Roof Trim (4) 1/4 x 5/8 - 61/4

NEW PARTSO Siding (14) 1/8 x 11/4 -12P Lower Fascia (2) 1/4 x 9/16 - 14Q Upper Fascia (2) 1/4 x 9/16 - 13

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(1) additional bag of square cedar shingles.Do not need copper sheets, copper tacks, or fish scale cedar shingles

MATERIALS LIST

!/4

(/16

UPPER/LOWERFASCIA

5°BEVELa.

Bird Feeder Plan

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