Bike - The Longer Road

BIKE BIKEAdventures across Southern Africa

Adventures across Southern Africa

Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes

On- and off-road routes | Scenic routes | Mountain passes

What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more

By Greg Beadle with Foreword by Charley Boorman

INCLUDES DETAILED ROUTE MAPS

BIK

E Th

e Lo

ng

er R

oa

dA

dventures across Southern A

frica

I S BN 978-1-77026-506-6

9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 5 0 6 6MAC/CPT/0713/TG/NB/GH

• GPS co-ordinates at start and end points• Routes clearly marked• Hazardous spots along the route are highlighted• Things to see along the route• Filling stations indicated• Distance markers• Topographical relief

N

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Koeries

Kaboep

Lubbeskolk

Dorin

g

Sou t

Bos

Muishond

Tankwa

Olifants

Olifants

Wit

Spek

Touws

Hartbees

Sout

Orange

65

49

68

46

61

17

66

22

53

70

75

83

77

RichtersveldNational Park

De HoopNature Reserve

Agulhas National Park

MarlothNature Reserve

VrolijkheidNature Reserve

Table MountainNational Park

Cape of Good HopeNature Reserve

West CoastNational Park

Groot WinterhoekWilderness Area

Hottentots-HollandsNature Reserve

NamaquaNational Park

Tankwa-Karoo National Park

Cederberg Wilderness Area

Augrabies FallsNational Park

GoegabNature

Reserve

33°55’31”S18°25’26”E

Blind RisesBeware of

Game Crossings

Alexander BayAerodrome

Dolomite Peaks

Border Post

River Rafting

Hot Springs

Windpoort

Shifting Dunes

Miner's Memorial

Orbicular Diorite Koppie

Burke's Pass

Pypmaker se Poort

Barter's Grave 1902

Skilpad Wildflower Gardens

Ottaspoort

Rooiwalspoort

The Letterklip 1902

Windmill Museum

Bloukrans Pass

Heerenlogement Cave The South AfricanAstronomical Observatory

Botterkloof

Pakhuis Pass

V.O.C. Beacon

Middelberg Pass

Piekenierskloof

Flower Reserves

Silver Stroom Pump Station

Club Mykonos

Table Mountain

Dias Monument 1488

Aussenkehr

NorotshamaRiver Resort

Middelpos

Nakop

Lutzputs

Sendelingsdrif

Dagab

Karkams

Aggeneys

Noordoewer

Granaatboskolk

Bitterfontein

Kreefbaai

Elandsbaai

Yzerfontein

Paternoster

Betty's Bay

Philadelphia

Matjiesfontein

Nuwerus

Melkbosstrand

Grabouw

Gansbaai

Hermanus

Franschhoek

Darling

Velddrif

Saldanha

Langebaan

Riebeek-Wes

Stompneus Bay

Moorreesburg

Sutherland

Garies

Brandvlei

Kamieskroon

Hondeklipbaai

Loeriesfontein

Ceres

Swellendam

Malmesbury

Vredenburg

Bredasdorp

Pofadder

Steinkopf

Karasburg

Port Nolloth

Alexander Bay

Vioolsdrif

Stellenbosch

Paarl

Springbok

Clanwilliam

Vanrhynsdorp

Lambert's Bay

CAPE TOWN

SOUTH AFRICA

NAMIBIA

R318

R316

R355

R354

R399

R364

R303

R355

R355

R382

R358

R27

R27

D206D212

C37

N2

B1

N1

N7

N7

N14

N10

100Km 50

Includes detailed route maps

The Longer RoadThe exciting sequel to the popular Bike Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa takes the rider across eight countries, following longer routes and providing more detail of what to do and see along the way.

The Longer Road

MapStudio™ and the MapStudio™ device are trademarked to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd. 1st edition © MapStudio™ 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, elec-

tronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the Copyright owner.

Scan this QR code to view the MapStudio website

3

PAG E

Foreword by Charley Boorman 4

About the author 5

Overview map 6

Preparation and planning 8

Route 1 – Cape Town to Windhoek 16 by Greg Beadle

Route 2 – Maun to Windhoek 42 by Stefan Boshoff

Route 3 – Maun to Harare via Victoria Falls 70 by Greg Beadle

Route 4 – Harare to Mbombela via Ilha de Moçambique 98 by Wayne Sheppard

Route 5 – Die Groot omTrek – round trip from eMkhondo 126 by Theunis Nel

Gear guide 162

Getting to know some famous riders • Charley Boorman 186• Clint Pienaar 188• Alfie Cox 190• Zelda la Grange 191• Theunis Nel 192

Contents

© Wayne Sheppard

8

I’m a spontaneous person and

there is nothing better than just

deciding: now is the time, jump

on your motorcycle and head on

out into the Karoo with nothing

more than your credit card and

perhaps a change of clothes.

When it comes to 8–10-day

adventures on a motorcycle in

Southern Africa, it needs a little

more thought. Riding around

South Africa is almost intuitive.

We know what to expect on

the roads, we have a sense that

we will always find fuel, decent

accommodation and reliable

sources of food. When exploring

further north these factors do

change, hence the need for some

planning and preparation.

Should you not have a clue

on where to start or have no

idea what it is like to ride your

motorcycle through remote parts

of Southern Africa then you may

want to consider joining a group

hosted by a professional touring

operator. This is generally a more

expensive way of exploring on a

motorcycle but you do eliminate

many of the variables, includ-

ing accommodation, technical

support and food, that could see

you not enjoying your inaugural

motorcycle adventure.

Tour operatorsMoto Aventures offers a com-

prehensive package including

using their bikes as well as

space for passengers to join in

a 4x4. The BMW R1200GS is

their standard bike of choice,

and there’s the possibility of a

F800GS if they are available.

Twenty R1200GS are available

per group. The 4x4 back-up ve-

hicle is an eight-seater, allowing

pillions the option of some time in

the vehicle if the weather is bad

or if they get tired. This vehicle

takes all the luggage and also

tows a spare motorcycle. There

is a second assistance vehicle,

towing a second trailer with spare

bike, and this transports the doc-

tor and mechanic. Each bike is

fitted with a GPS with the day’s

route programmed in, so clients

are free to travel fairly indepen-

dently or in small groups staying

on the GPS tracking. This means

enjoying an adventure rather than

riding in one large group all the

time, with a sense of security and

peace of mind knowing you have

medical and technical support

should you need it.

Moto Aventures has three tours

running consecutively from

August to October:

Cape Town to Vic Falls

travelling via Namibia

Total distance is 5,000km

14 days’ travel, which includes a

day off in Swakopmund

70% of the route is off-road on

good-condition gravel roads

Cost per biker = R7,950; pillions

and 4x4 = R4,500.

Vic Falls to Johannesburg

via Malawi and Mozambique


16 days’ travel, which includes

Preparation and planning

9

two days off at Lake Malawi and

in the Bazaruto Archipelago

off the coast from Vilanculos in

Mozambique

30% of the route is off-road


and 4x4 = R4,500.

Johannesburg to Cape

Town via Lesotho


9 days’ travel

80% of the route is off-road or it

can be 100% on road


and 4x4 = R2,900.

Included in the price is an

optional two-day Level 1 off-road

course with Si Pavey in Wales,

UK. If not taken, R400€is de-

ducted from price.

This 2013 pricing includes

luxury lodges/tented lodges,

sometimes with half board, and

assistance at all times during the

adventure.

Charley Boorman will join you

as your guide/entertainer.

Additional activities such as

game drives, sundowner cruises,

whale-watching cruise, shark-

cage diving, a lake cruise with

snorkelling and feeding Fish

Eagles, etc., is included depend-

ing on which tour you take. The

price includes the use of the

BMW R1200GS.

What is not included are your

flight costs should you be flying

into the start point and out at

the end, fuel (about R3,000

maximum), visas, vaccinations,

border charges, alcohol, medical

insurance, biking gear and bike

excess deposit of R15,000.

Moto Aventures is a small,

personalised, family-owned busi-

ness, offering quality motorbike

adventures – off-road in Morocco

on KTM 450EXC and adventure

touring on BMW R1200GS in

Southern Africa. They are the

longest-running company of

this type in Europe and Africa,

with over 16 years’ experience

and an annual average of over

60% returns and referrals, which

proves they are delivering what

their clients want. Safety and

satisfaction are the two most

important aspects of their tours.

In 2010 they partnered with

Charley Boorman to brand their

Southern African adventures and

started with two tours from Cape

Town to Vic Falls and back.

Since then they have added a

further two routes and others are

planned.

Check out www.moto

aventures.com for more info.

Karoo Biking, owned by Jurgen

Muess, offers a selection of tours

around Southern Africa. Jurgen

offers multi-day adventures that

encompass what Southern Africa

has to offer, on either a BMW

650/700GS, 800GS, 1200GS

or 1200RT. Focusing on South

Africa, Jurgen also offers certain

trips into Southern Africa and

E

© Shaen Adey

10

one trip in Europe. More details

available at www.karoo-biking.de

Kwanokeng Tours specialise in

Botswana, offering shorter tours

including a two-night tour through

the Tuli Block and a four-night

tour into the Makgadikgadi Pans.

Clinton and his team are pros

at setting up a very impressive

camp in the middle of nowhere

and serving delicious food and

cold beers. Clinton can custom-

ise a tour to suit your needs and

is the perfect host. He is the

ultimate entertainer and adds

great value to each of his tours.

All tours start at their Kwanokeng

Lodge located on the Botswana

side of the Limpopo River at the

Martin’s Drift border post. The

lodge offers comfortable accom-

modation including grass camp-

ing sites, permanent luxury tents

with decks overlooking the

lazy Limpopo River as well

as multi-roomed chalets. We

stayed in a chalet and found it

clean and very comfortable with

air-conditioning on hand as the

temperatures stayed rather high

throughout the night. The lodge

makes the perfect overnight

stop on your way in and out of

Botswana as it is located on

one of the quickest routes to the

northern half of Botswana from

Gauteng. Clinton’s family own

the lodge as well as the neigh-

bouring filling station, the busiest

retail filling station in Botswana,

according to Clinton. You will find

a bureau de change at the filling

station (although the South

African rand and the US dollar

are widely accepted in Botswana)

as well as a convenience retail

store that stocks almost every-

thing you may have forgotten at

home. Last time I checked, fuel

was cheaper in Botswana than in

© Stefan Boshoff

11

South Africa, so plan your fill up

stops accordingly.

Should you, for whatever reason,

not be interested in joining a

group on a motorcycle adventure,

then there are a few key things

to work out before you head out

on your own or in a smaller group

of riders.

ResearchThe first part of the plan for most

of us is when we can find the

time for a multi-day motorcycle

adventure! How many days can

you afford to be away from the

‘grindstone’? What time of year

do you wish to travel? Certain

parts of Southern Africa are a

no-go zone from November to

February due to excessive heat,

mosquitos, tsetse fly, etc. Parks

like Mana Pools close over this

period so be aware of when you

wish to travel and how that

affects where you can go.

Google is a wonderful tool

when it comes to starting your

research. You will find blogs,

tips and articles shared by

fellow adventurers. The

images you find online will

start to paint a picture of

what you can look forward

to. Online research will

also greatly assist you in

comparing accommoda-

tion options should there

be a choice where you

are going. Some of the

smaller villages may only

have one option that

may not even be

featured online. Sites such as

TripAdvisor.com share guests’

feedback and comments, giving

you a real impression of what the

establishment offers and what

you can expect for the price you

will pay to stay there.

When I look at where I want

to go, I normally base it around a

few highlights or dream destina-

tions. For example, in Namibia

any trip will include a few of the

many impressive destinations

the country offers, including the

Namib Desert, Skeleton Coast,

Swakopmund, Sossusvlei, the

Ugab River, Van Zyl’s Pass,

Etosha National Park, Epupa

Falls, etc.

Route planningOnce you have your list together

and you can see some sort of an

accessible route to follow, you

can knuckle down into the detail

planning, which must include

understanding what your motor-

cycle’s fuel tank offers as a range

of distance you can travel, with

the additional weight of a pillion

and/or luggage, before having to

re-fuel. You always need to allow

for extra mileage between fuel

stops, including the small but real

possibility of having to turn back

along the way as you may forget

something important at a drinks

stop on the side of the road and

double back to get it an hour or

two later. I can’t stress enough

how important it is to make sure

you have enough fuel. In South

Africa it’s easy enough to find a

filling station almost anywhere. In

Southern Africa it is different and

you need to know where you can

get fuel and if they will have fuel

in stock when you need it. Auxil-

lary fuel tanks or extra fuel plastic

packs as mentioned in my gear

guide later on in this book are es-

sential on these longer trips into

remote areas.

When purchasing maps, I

always recommend sourcing at

least two different maps from dif-

ferent publishers. The Tracks4

Africa maps are essential and the

MapStudio maps are good too.

E

E

© Greg Beadle

12

The Tracks4Africa maps show

most of the fuel stations and

give you accurate mileage and

estimated travel times, greatly

assisting in your planning.

BudgetLooking at costs and managing a

budget when planning your trip is

probably the least fun element of

the overall process but it has to

be done. Motorcycle adventures

should be less expensive than

doing the same routes in a four-

wheel-drive vehicle, based on fuel

consumption, but the accommoda-

tion and food costs could well

change this estimation. I break it

down into these definitions with

a few of the relevant questions to

be answered and costed for:

Transport to get there and back

Are you flying to a destination

to start your adventure?

Are you driving and trailering

your bike to a start and finish

point?

Fuel for trip

What is the average fuel con-

sumption of your motorcycle?

How much heavier will your

bike be for this trip and how

much more fuel will you use?

How many kilometres will you

be riding?

Are you taking a towing/back-

up vehicle along with you?

What is the average fuel con-

sumption of this vehicle, including

towing a trailer with bike/s?

What is the price of fuel in

each country you pass through?

You will need to pay cash for

fuel at most remote filling stations

and you can pay with a card in

some major towns. How much

cash do you need to carry daily

for fuel?

Accommodation options

What type of accommodation

do you want to use? Camping

or lodging?

Do you need to pay a portion

of the cost upfront as a booking

deposit?

Will they accept card payment

for the balance of the cost as well

as for food and drinks?

If they only accept cash pay-

ments, which currencies do they

accept?

How much will gear cost

should you choose to camp for

a few or all of the nights?

Food options

Where will you find food along

the way and what will it cost?

What food can you take with

you?

What can you budget on

spending per day on food as an

average cost?

Emergency provision

Which is the correct travel

insurance product to suit your

needs and what will it cost?

What amount of cash do you

need to carry for emergency

needs? This could include

medical supplies, a lift to get help

or to transport a bike to a town

nearby, border crossing compli-

cations, etc.

E

13

ReservationsAs a general rule I try to book

only the first and possibly the last

night’s accommodation before

heading off on a trip. I don’t like

the feeling of having to be at a

certain destination by a certain

date. It just adds stress to my trip

and I much prefer to wake up in

the morning, see how far I feel

like riding, ride a few hours and

then decide on how far to go that

day. The freedom of choosing

day to day how far you want to

go (or not) is an important part

of my personal experience of any

motorcycle adventure. Riding

in a group you lose that sense

of freedom and need to keep

up with what the group is doing

every day.

Depending on when and

where you are travelling you may

be able to arrive somewhere

with no reservation and still get

accommodation. Sometimes

you won’t be so lucky, particu-

larly at popular tourist spots, like

Sesriem camp site in Namibia,

during high season. When doing

your research you will need to

ascertain whether you feel you

need to make reservations up-

front or not.

Also make sure that motor-

cycles are welcome for your

night stops. We arrived in what

we thought was a private nature

reserve in Namibia, riding in the

park for 30 minutes (slowly) to

get to the reception, only to have

them tell us bikes aren’t allowed

in the park. We managed to stay

overnight at a very nice riverside

camp site before leaving the

park, and I do hope that one

day soon they will let bikes into

national parks.

Emergency planningI see emergency planning a

bit like the way I see insur-

ance. You don’t want it but

you definitely don’t want to

be caught without it. It’s best

to know what to do should

you find yourself or one of your

group in difficulty.

Generally the most important

plan is to know where the near-

est hospital or medical base is

to your current location as you

travel through the day. Check

with lodges or camp sites when

you make a reservation to see

if they have a qualified medic

on-site, as well as what medical

supplies they have.

It doesn’t hurt, pardon the pun,

to complete a first-aid course or

attend a refresher course before

heading out on an adventure

sans medical back-up.

Carry a first-aid kit that is com-

pact but includes what you need.

I am not qualified to advise you

as to which first-aid kit is best for

you to use, but I can tell you that

you will need to customise a kit

to suit your needs. You can add

painkillers and personal medica-

tion and perhaps take out certain

items that you believe to be non-

essential. You can search online

or visit a selection of outdoor

retailers to compare what they of-

fer. Cape Union Mart and Safari

Centre both stock a range of

fairly relevant first-aid kits as they

cover the requirements of the

outdoor and 4x4 markets.

You will not always have

cellphone coverage, so make

© Stefan Boshoff

14

sure you have an idea of how

best to get help to a patient or

get a patient to the help they

need. Every case is different

and the circumstances will more

than likely require improvising

on the scene. Without being too

selective, do attempt to include

group members that add certain

skills like mechanical and first-aid

knowledge. Having said all of

this, I do often ride on my own

but then will do my utmost to

have a recovery vehicle behind

me or try not to spend too much

time outside the network of com-

munication technology.

Common sense must also be

used when riding solo or in small

groups. Is it worth attempting to

ride down a challenging cliff face

when you still have five days left

of your trip, with no town nearby

and no communication to the

outside world?

Accidents do happen but you

can do your best to minimise this

risk by ensuring that you and your

riding group get the most out

of the whole adventure and not

just a quick thrill that could take

its toll on the whole group’s

experience.

In case of emergency (ICE)

identification is important should

you lose consciousness. ICE ID

make a durable identification tag

bracelet including your chosen

information for ‘in case of emer-

gency’ situations. Blood type,

allergies and an ICE contact are

good items to include, as well as

your name, of course. You can

order one of these online at

www.iceid.co.za.

Copy these details onto a

card, laminate it and place it in a

place of high visibility, like in the

transparent map pocket on top

of your tank bag or in the trans-

parent pocket on your Rallye 3

jacket sleeve.

Documenting your tripWhether you are going to submit

your next adventure to a travel

or superbike magazine or if you

just want to bank memories from

this trip, it’s important to have a

camera and a notebook packed.

Being a professional adventure

photographer and author I find it

necessary to carry a ‘pro’ camera

body with one or two lenses

packed in my tank bag. The tank

bag is one of the zones on your

bike with the least vibration. If

you pack your camera or gear in

your luggage, be sure to wrap

them in clothing and pack them

snugly to minimise vibration as

much as possible. You also want

to have your camera within reach

so that you can capture those

images as you see them and

E

© Greg Beadle

15

before they disappear. I pack

a Canon 1DMark4 and always

pack the Canon 16–35mm lens

for those jaw-dropping land-

scapes. If I have space I’ll include

the Canon 70–200mm for candid

portraits and story-telling images.

I catch a lot of great images on

my iPhone too, as it is always

easy to get to, being located in

a jacket pocket, and I don’t have

to take off my gloves and helmet

to look through the viewfinder on

my SLR camera. A compact

camera like the Canon S90 fits

in a jacket pocket and also takes

high-quality images and video.

The way forward though must

be with a GoPro camera: you

get videos and stills from a small

body with a waterproof casing

that comes standard with the

camera. Fixed focal length on

a wide-angle lens means you

will catch everything along the

way. You will need a ‘backpack’

long-life battery to ensure you

that get a few hours out of the

camera, and try to shoot footage

only when you are riding through

special scenery, which will save

you space on your memory card

as well as saving editing time

afterwards. With a large variety

of attachments, you can mount

a GoPro to almost anywhere

on your bike or body. Recharge

batteries with your solar-powered

charger after the day’s ride.

I usually pack an iPad in my

tank bag for making notes at

the end of a day, depending on

space as I always have a small

notebook and pen packed too.

The iPad allows you to carry a

lot of reading material, including

books and magazines, all on one

device, as well as cool apps, like

Stellarium, which tells you the

name of a constellation of stars

just by pointing the iPad at that

particular constellation. Another

useful app, called SunSeeker,

tells you which path the sun

follows during the day and what

time it will meet the horizon,

allowing you to plan for riding

time left in the day and to plan

the best location for your sunset

photo opportunity.E

© Greg Beadle

BIKE BIKEAdventures across Southern Africa

Adventures across Southern Africa

Covers the region’s best motorbiking routes

On- and off-road routes | Scenic routes | Mountain passes

What to see | What to do | Parks | Accommodation and much more

By Greg Beadle with Foreword by Charley Boorman

INCLUDES DETAILED ROUTE MAPS

BIK

E Th

e Lo

ng

er R

oa

dA

dventures across Southern A

frica

I S BN 978-1-77026-506-6

9 7 8 1 7 7 0 2 6 5 0 6 6MAC/CPT/0713/TG/NB/GH

• GPS co-ordinates at start and end points• Routes clearly marked• Hazardous spots along the route are highlighted• Things to see along the route• Filling stations indicated• Distance markers• Topographical relief

N

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Koeries

Kaboep

Lubbeskolk

Dorin

g

Sou t

Bos

Muishond

Tankwa

Olifants

Olifants

Wit

Spek

Touws

Hartbees

Sout

Orange

65

49

68

46

61

17

66

22

53

70

75

83

77

RichtersveldNational Park

De HoopNature Reserve

Agulhas National Park

MarlothNature Reserve

VrolijkheidNature Reserve

Table MountainNational Park

Cape of Good HopeNature Reserve

West CoastNational Park

Groot WinterhoekWilderness Area

Hottentots-HollandsNature Reserve

NamaquaNational Park

Tankwa-Karoo National Park

Cederberg Wilderness Area

Augrabies FallsNational Park

GoegabNature

Reserve

33°55’31”S18°25’26”E

Blind RisesBeware of

Game Crossings

Alexander BayAerodrome

Dolomite Peaks

Border Post

River Rafting

Hot Springs

Windpoort

Shifting Dunes

Miner's Memorial

Orbicular Diorite Koppie

Burke's Pass

Pypmaker se Poort

Barter's Grave 1902

Skilpad Wildflower Gardens

Ottaspoort

Rooiwalspoort

The Letterklip 1902

Windmill Museum

Bloukrans Pass

Heerenlogement Cave The South AfricanAstronomical Observatory

Botterkloof

Pakhuis Pass

V.O.C. Beacon

Middelberg Pass

Piekenierskloof

Flower Reserves

Silver Stroom Pump Station

Club Mykonos

Table Mountain

Dias Monument 1488

Aussenkehr

NorotshamaRiver Resort

Middelpos

Nakop

Lutzputs

Sendelingsdrif

Dagab

Karkams

Aggeneys

Noordoewer

Granaatboskolk

Bitterfontein

Kreefbaai

Elandsbaai

Yzerfontein

Paternoster

Betty's Bay

Philadelphia

Matjiesfontein

Nuwerus

Melkbosstrand

Grabouw

Gansbaai

Hermanus

Franschhoek

Darling

Velddrif

Saldanha

Langebaan

Riebeek-Wes

Stompneus Bay

Moorreesburg

Sutherland

Garies

Brandvlei

Kamieskroon

Hondeklipbaai

Loeriesfontein

Ceres

Swellendam

Malmesbury

Vredenburg

Bredasdorp

Pofadder

Steinkopf

Karasburg

Port Nolloth

Alexander Bay

Vioolsdrif

Stellenbosch

Paarl

Springbok

Clanwilliam

Vanrhynsdorp

Lambert's Bay

CAPE TOWN

SOUTH AFRICA

NAMIBIA

R318

R316

R355

R354

R399

R364

R303

R355

R355

R382

R358

R27

R27

D206D212

C37

N2

B1

N1

N7

N7

N14

N10

100Km 50

Includes detailed route maps

The Longer RoadThe exciting sequel to the popular Bike Tar & Gravel Adventures in South Africa takes the rider across eight countries, following longer routes and providing more detail of what to do and see along the way.

The Longer Road

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Bike - The Longer Road

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