BFC Annual Report 2013 - 2014
117
-
Upload
anamaccarrick -
Category
Documents
-
view
228 -
download
5
description
Â
Transcript of BFC Annual Report 2013 - 2014
THE UK FASHION INDUSTRY CONTRIBUTES £26 BILLION
TO THE UK ECONOMY
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, 2014
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
2013–14
ANNUAL REVIEW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
CONTENTS
7 CHAIRMAN’S LETTER
13 OVERVIEW
20 Mission Statement
21 Our Aim
24 Five Pillars
26 Pillar Presidents
30 Governance
Funding
Executive Board
Patrons
32 Advisory Board
34 Business & Cultural Ambassadors
Press Committee
36 Calendar of Events
49 PILLARS
53 Business
57 Talent Support Pathway 58 NEWGEN 60 NEWGEN MEN 61 Fashion Forward 68 BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund 69 BFC Fashion Trust 70 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 76 LONDON show ROOMS 84 London Style Suites 86 Headonism 88 Estethica 89 Rock Vault BFC Fashion Film 90 BFC Business Support 91 Business Support Workshops
101 Reputation
106 London Fashion Week 128 Vodafone London Fashion Weekend 134 London Collections: Men 162 British Fashion Awards 176 Positive Fashion The Fashion Arts Foundation
189 Education
192 BFC Colleges Council 193 Annual Programme 194 Graduate Preview Day MA Scholarships Competitions
201 Innovation & Digital
211 Investment
220 THE BFC TEAM
76
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
CHAIRMAN’S LETTER
This has been an incredible year and a great journey in my first full year as Chairman of the British Fashion Council. I continue to be astounded by the wealth of talent in the UK and the incredible support given by the industry. The work of the British Fashion Council, as outlined in this review, would not be possible without our patrons, sponsors and commercial partners, as well as the Mayor of London, UK Trade & Investment and European Regional Development Fund, who I thank whole heartedly on behalf of the British Fashion Council and the designer sector.
Last year we set out our vision for growth, for increasing the commercial impact of our creative talents and for securing the future of our talent pipeline. In September we launched our bid to secure funding for scholarships as the priority in our Education Pillar. I am delighted to share that we now have five scholarships secured and are looking to build on this in the coming years. The sad and untimely death of Professor Louise Wilson OBE has made this pillar all the more poignant and we hope the industry will unite in ensuring her legacy secures the future of British talent in this country.
In February we set out our plans for our Investment Pillar and look forward to building on this platform going forward. There has been some noteworthy investments made in the past year, just some of which we share with you here. As an organisation we have delivered significant support for designers through sponsorship and awards to support shows, showrooms and business development. This support is essential in the current economic climate and we hope to deliver more support through these routes and the generosity of our partners each year.
Our menswear sector continues to go from strength to strength and I thank Chair of London Collections: Men, Dylan Jones OBE, for his unwavering support and determination in strengthening this part of our sector and for helping to launch the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund sponsored by Vertu.
I would like to thank the Pillar Presidents who work on a pro bono basis to ensure we are meeting our strategic goals. All of our mentors and supporters for helping make a real difference and the BFC team for their commitment to delivering excellence, for believing in the incredible talent in this country and delivering on the board’s and industry’s ambitions.
There continue to be challenges ahead in this highly competitive sector, but I have no doubt that collectively we can make 2014–2015 an even better year for British fashion.
British fashion remains at its rightful place on the global stage, and it’s our role at the British Fashion Council to champion our industry, shout loud about it and be proud of everything we achieve as an industry together.
Thank you
Natalie Massenet MBE
98
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
GRAHAM RUDDICK, THE DAILY TELEGRAPH
“BRITISH FASHION REMAINS A MODEL FOR
GLOBAL SUCCESS”
BU
RB
ER
RY
PR
OR
SUM
SS1
4
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
OVERVIEW
15O
VER
VIEW
CH
RIS
TOP
HER
KA
NE A
W14
17O
VER
VIEW
16B
FC A
NN
UA
L R
EVI
EW 2
013
–14
“LONDON HAS BECOME A NOT-TO-MISS ON OUR FASHION SCHEDULES.
THIS SEASON, MANY OF THE YOUNG DESIGNERS IMPRESSED US WITH THEIR CRAFTSMANSHIP AND ORIGINALITY. THERE WAS A GREAT SENSE OF ORGANISATION TO THE
CALENDAR AND FULL-ON SUPPORT OF EMERGING TALENT”
LINDA FARGO, BERGDORF GOODMAN
CH
RIS
TOP
HER
RA
EB
UR
N A
W14
21O
VER
VIEW
20B
FC A
NN
UA
L R
EVI
EW 2
013
–14
OUR AIM
OUR AMBITION IS TO STRATEGICALLY
REPOSITION BRITISH FASHION IN THE GLOBAL
FASHION ECONOMY
THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
LEADS THE FASHION INDUSTRY THROUGH CREATIVE INFLUENCE
MISSION STATEMENT
23O
VER
VIEW
22B
FC A
NN
UA
L R
EVI
EW 2
013
–14
“WHAT MAKES LONDON UNIQUE IS THE SHEER BREADTH
OF CREATIVITY ON DISPLAY”
LAURA CRAIK, THE TIMES
25O
VER
VIEW
24B
FC A
NN
UA
L R
EVI
EW 2
013
–14
FIVE PILLARS
We identified five pillars through which we have focused our energy and the support so generously provided by
organisations, individuals and global influencers from other sectors.
Creativity is at the heart of everything we do and is the hallmark of success of every
British fashion business.
BUSINESS
REPUTATION
EDUCATION
INNOVATION & DIGITAL
INVESTMENT
We have focused our mentoring programmes to create new opportunities to support more businesses. We are developing an online portal to create open access to business support information and seminars.
We are increasing the international profile of British fashion and British Fashion Council led events, working with strategic partners globally to champion British fashion. We aim for our event experiences and content to exceed all expectations, to attract new audiences and further develop our reputation for professionalism and creativity.
We aim to attract talented young people into the industry, both through further education scholarships and vocational routes to learn much needed skills. Business education is a new strand to this strategy, working with business colleges to attract future fashion business leaders.
We want British businesses to follow in the footsteps of its brands and lead in innovation and digital. We are identifying challenges to support more businesses to get online, to launch new technology and to look at using it to support businesses to be more efficient.
We aim to attract more investors into the sector, establishing early stage investment vehicles underpinned by philanthropy and prepare designer businesses to be investor ready.
2726
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BUSINESS
James McArthurAnya Hindmarch
REPUTATION
Sophia Neophitou10 Magazine
EDUCATION
Meribeth ParkerHearst Magazines UK
Sarah Mower MBEBFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent
INNOVATION & DIGITAL
Peter Fitzgerald Google UK
INVESTMENT
Jonathan GoodwinLepe Partners
PILLAR PRESIDENTS
Each of the five strategic pillars has been appointed a President who, along with the British Fashion Council (BFC) Senior Management Team, drive forward each element of the strategy. P
ILLA
R P
RESI
DEN
TS
RO
KSA
ND
A I
LIN
CIC
SS1
4
3130
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 GOVERNANCE
An Executive Board was established in 2009 with the appointment of the organisation’s first full-time management team.
The Executive Board briefs an industry advisory board biannually on strategy, achievements and challenges.
FUNDING
The British Fashion Council (BFC) is funded by industry patrons and commercial partners. It receives grant support from the Mayor of London to enable it to strengthen the content and international profile of London Fashion Week (LFW) and the profile and impact of London’s designers.
Funding from UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) supports specific initiatives that directly deliver increased opportunities for British businesses to grow. Since July 2011, the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Programme 2007–2013 has supported LONDON show ROOMS, London Collections: Men, the BFC’s business support seminars and digital showcasing.
The BFC prides itself in developing long term partnerships with commercial partners for its events and initiatives, delivering opportunities for both designers and partners alike.
The BFC thanks all of its patrons, partners and sponsors who have helped make the recent growth and profile of the designer sector possible. LFW now draws more influential audiences from fashion media and designer fashion retailers to the capital than ever before. Media coverage of LFW exceeds £160m each season demonstrating the global reach of the event and its role in promoting British creativity and London as a creative capital.
EXECUTIVE BOARD
Natalie Massenet MBEChairman
Caroline RushChief Executive
Simon WardChief Operating Officer
Anya Hindmarch MBENon-Executive Director
Christopher Inman OBETreasurer
PATRONS 2013–14
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
Arcadia GroupAurora FashionsBicester VillageBurberryCondé Nast PublishingDebenhamsFenwick LimitedHarrodsHearst Magazines UKHouse of FraserHSBCISSA LondonJohn Lewis PartnershipLabelux GroupMarks & SpencerMayor of LondonMulberryThe Net-a-Porter GroupNextRadley & CoRiver IslandSelfridgesTesco
TOP
SHO
P U
NIQ
UE A
W14
E. TA
UTZ
AW
14
3332
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 ADVISORY BOARD 2013–14
The advisory board comprises BFC committee chairs, representatives from education, patrons and designers who give of their time and expertise freely to help develop a focused programme of promotion and support for leading British designer businesses.
Alexandra Shulman OBEVogue
Allan WinstanleyHouse of Fraser
Anne Tyrrell MBEAnne Tyrrell Designs
Annette CreminSelfridges
Camilla FayedISSA London
Carol BagnaldHSBC
Dana GersJimmy Choo for Labelux Group
Frances Corner OBELondon College of Fashion
Hilary Alexander OBE
Jason TarryTesco Clothing
Joseph VelosaMatthew Williamson
Josie RoscopRiver Island
Justine PicardieHarper’s Bazaar
Justine SimonsMayor of London
Lisa ArmstrongThe Daily Telegraph
Louise Wilson OBECentral Saint Martins
Marigay McKeeHarrods
Mary HomerTOPSHOP
Maurice MullenLondon Evening Standard
Meribeth ParkerHearst Magazines UK
Mike ShearwoodAurora Fashions
Nick VanceRadley & Co.
Paula NickoldsJohn Lewis Partnership
Sarah Mower MBEBFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent
Sarah ManleyBurberry
Stephen QuinnVogue
Suzanne HarlowDebenhams
Tamara BenjaminValue Retail
Tania LittlehalesMarks & Spencer
Vanessa LuntMulberry
Wendy Dagworthy OBERoyal College of Art
ER
DEM
AW
14
3534
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BUSINESS & CULTURAL AMBASSADORS
The BFC Ambassador Programme aims to develop a strong network of business and cultural ambassadors to support the BFC’s strategic goals.
Samantha CameronBFC Ambassador
Sarah Mower MBEBFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent
Alison EdmondLos Angeles Ambassador
Alexa ChungStyle Ambassador
Laura BaileyCultural Ambassador
Poppy DelevingneYoung Ambassador
PRESS COMMITTEE
Sophia Neophitou10 Magazine (Chair)
Alexander FuryThe Independent
Alexandra FullertonStylist
Alexandra Shulman OBEVogue
Carola LongFinancial Times
Claudia CroftThe Sunday Times
Dylan Jones OBEGQ
Gemma HaywardGrazia
Gianluca LongoFreelance Writer
Holly Shackletoni-D
Iain R WebbFreelance Writer
Imogen FoxThe Guardian
Karen DacreThe Evening Standard
Justine PicardieHarper’s Bazaar
Jess Cartner-MorleyThe Guardian
Laura CraikThe Times
Lisa ArmstrongThe Daily Telegraph
Lorraine CandyELLE
Lucy YeomansPORTER
Samantha ContiWWD
Sarah Mower MBEBFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent
Susannah FrankelGrazia
Terry Jonesi-D
Tiffanie DarkeSunday Times Style
CH
RIS
TOP
HER
KA
NE,
CH
RIS
TOP
HER
BA
ILEY
MB
E,
CA
RO
LIN
E R
USH
N
ATA
LIE M
ASS
EN
ET
MB
E,
AN
YA H
IND
MA
RC
H M
BE,
JON
ATH
AN
SA
UN
DER
S, S
IR P
AU
L SM
ITH
3736
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BFC CALENDAR OF EVENTS & ANNOUNCEMENTS 2013–14
APRIL
LONDON show ROOMS LA
Cocktail Party at The Thompson
Afternoon Tea
Colleges Council: Creative Pattern Cutting Seminar
LONDON show ROOMS New York
Opening Brunch
Closing Party
Celebration of LC:M at The British Residence of HM Consul General, New York
Colleges Council: Heads of Course Seminar at Harrods
BFC Sponsors’ Conference
Colleges Council: Topshop & Topman Graduate Design Programme Winners Announced
BFC Fashion Trust: Retail Seminar
MAY
Rock Vault Designers Showcase at The Couture Show, Las Vegas
Colleges Council: Graduate Preview Day 2013
Graduate Preview Day Awards Announced
British Designers’ Collective at Bicester Village
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Breakfast with Jonathan Saunders, 2013 Winner
NEWGEN MEN, Sponsored by Topman, SS14 Designers Announced
Fashion Forward SS14 Designers Announced
BFC Fashion Trust: Digital Conference
Colleges Council: Warehouse Competition Winner Announced
OCTOBER
British Fashion Awards 2013 Nominees Announced
London Style Suites in partnership with STYLEBOP.com Announced
NOVEMBER
NEWGEN MEN, Sponsored by Topman, AW14 Designers Announced
LONDON show ROOMS LA
Opening Party
British Fashion Awards 2013 British Style Award Announced
London Style Suites, Sponsored by STYLEBOP.com
BFC Fashion Trust LA Breakfast Hosted by Jessica de Rothschild
Cocktail Reception at Chateau Marmont
LONDON show ROOMS Brazil
Vogue Brazil and Farfetch Dinner
Colleges Council: Garment Construction Seminar
Mary Katrantzou Joins NEWGEN Selection Committee
Nick Grimshaw Appointed Menswear Ambassador
Suzy Menkes MBE, Special Recognition Award at the British Fashion Awards 2013 Announced
Save the Children Designer Christmas Jumper Installation
Kate Moss, Special Recognition Award at the British Fashion Awards 2013 Announced
DECEMBER
British Fashion Awards 2013 at The Coliseum
Terry and Tricia Jones, Outstanding Achievement Award at the British Fashion Awards 2013
NEWGEN, Sponsored by Topshop, AW14 Designers Announced
Shortlist for BFC Vogue/Designer Fashion Fund Announced
JUNE
Headonism Pop-up at Browns Fashion
London Collections: Men
Ten Iconic Styles Britain Gave The World Announced
Mayor of London Launched the LC:M Heritage Map
Fashion Film, Sponsored by River Island, Dazed & Confused Collaboration
NEWGEN, Sponsored by Topshop, SS14 Designers Announced
LONDON show ROOMS Paris Mens
Opening Brunch
JULY
APPG Fashion & Textiles Reception
Headonism Collaboration with Disney for ‘The Lone Ranger’
AUGUST
Rock Vault SS14 LFW Designers Announced
Estethica SS14 LFW Designers Announced
Nicholas Kirkwood & LFW Creative Collaboration Announced
LFW label:m Products Launched
Headonism Milliners for LFW Announced
SEPTEMBER
Oxford Street LFW Flags Launched
London Fashion Week
The Shop Pop-up Launched
International Buyers Dinner Hosted by Princess Beatrice of York
Holly Fulton Capsule Collection Launched on eBay for LFW
British Fashion Council & The Global Fund Event at Apsley House
Vodafone London Fashion Weekend
BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund Launched
LONDON show ROOMS Paris
Opening Brunch
JANUARY
London Collections: Men
Fine & Dandy: Mayor Backs £10bn Menswear Sector
Fashion Film, Sponsored by River Island, Presentation of Films
LONDON show ROOMS Paris Men
Private View
Fashion Forward 2014 Designers Announced
Colleges Council: Marks & Spencer Winners Announced
Colleges Council: Harrods Winners Announced
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Winner 2014 Announced
FEBRUARY
Estethica LFW AW14 Designers Announced
WeTransfer & British Fashion Council Collaboration for LFW
London Fashion Week
Fashion Film, Sponsored by River Island, Event hosted by Laura Bailey
The Shop at LFW Opened
International Fashion Showcase 2014 Winners Announced
Creative London Reception at Spencer House, Co-hosted by BAFTA & BPI
British Fashion Celebrated at the British Academy Film Awards
Vodafone London Fashion Weekend
LONDON show ROOMS Paris
Private View
MARCH
British Designers’ Collective at Bicester Village Announced
Caroline Rush made an Honorary Professor at Glasgow Caledonian University (GCU) School of Fashion
Hackney Schools Seminar: Getting Into The Fashion Industry
3938
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
SOC
IAL
MED
IA H
IGH
LIG
HTS
FR
OM
@B
RIT
ISH
FASH
ION
CO
UN
CIL
SOC
IAL
MED
IA H
IGH
LIG
HTS
FR
OM
@B
RIT
ISH
FASH
ION
CO
UN
CIL
KEN
T &
CU
RW
EN
AW
14
43
42
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“LONDON HAS BECOME AN EVER-MORE-CRUCIAL HUB OF THE FASHION WORLD”
LONDON EVENING STANDARD
“LONDON RETAINS ITS EDGINESS, BUT THE MOVE TOWARDS LUXURY IS ALL PART OF GLOBAL RECOGNITION”
SIMON CHILVERS, THE GUARDIAN
4544
OVE
RVI
EW
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
AN
YA H
IND
MA
RC
H A
W14
MA
RY
KAT
RA
NTZ
OU
AW
14
GIE
VES
& H
AWK
ES
SS14
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
PILLARS
51PIL
LAR
S
INITIATIVES BY PILLAR
JON
ATH
AN
SA
UN
DER
S SS
14
53
52
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BUSINESS
5554
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council has focused upon key areas which help create a robust
framework that supports the fashion community. Designer business support
is an area we are committed to, championing designers to innovate and commercialise their creativity.
The Business Pillar will strengthen and focus the British Fashion Council’s mentoring structure across all of its initiatives.
The key aim is to appoint high profile industry leaders who can work with designer businesses over a two year period,
open their contacts book to assist in knowledge gaps and share expertise across the business structure. They will also assist the designer in structuring their business, help appoint key
personnel and develop essential business disciplines, knowledge and strategy to deliver growth.
A broader network of industry experts will be created for designers to access, offering more focused support where needed.
5756
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
EMERGING & FUTURE STARS
EMERGING TALENT WORKSHOPSROCK VAULTESTETHICA
HEADONISM
NEWGEN & NEWGEN MENFASHION FORWARD
LONDON SHOW ROOMSBFC CONTEMPORARY
COLLEGE START-UPS
SCHOLARSHIPSCOLLEGES COUNCIL
START-UP WORKSHOPSDESIGNER FACT FILE
CONSUMERS
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKENDSOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS
CORPORATE HOSPITALITYTHE SHOP
NEW ESTABLISHMENT TIER 1 BRANDS
BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUNDBFC FASHION TRUST
LONDON STYLE SUITESBFC/GQ DESIGNER MENSWEAR FUND
GLOBAL BRANDS
BFC PATRONSFASHION FORUM
TALENT SUPPORT PATHWAY
The British Fashion Council’s talent support pathway aims to engage
students, support emerging businesses and celebrate our global brands.
The diagram on the right illustrates our target audiences and the initiatives
focused at them.
5958
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 NEWGEN
In 1993 the BFC created NEWGEN, now sponsored by Topshop. Since 2001 it has become one of the world’s most internationally recognised talent identification schemes.
NEWGEN continues to showcase and promote new designer businesses.
NEWGEN offers catwalk designers financial support towards their show costs and the opportunity to use the BFC Catwalk Show Space. Other designers also receive sponsored presentation or exhibition space to showcase their collections, offering an important introduction for young UK-based designers to influential press and buyers from around the world. NEWGEN also provides business and mentoring support through the BFC in partnership with Shoosmiths, Baker Tilly and Lloyds TSB.
Since NEWGEN’s inception, its roll call of designers has included Alexander McQueen, Boudicca, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald, Lara Bohinc, Antonio Berardi, Ann-Louise Roswald and more recently Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff.
Internationally recognised as a prestigious showcase of the best up-and-coming British fashion talent, recipients are selected by a panel of media and buying experts chaired by Sarah Mower MBE, the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
1205 Claire Barrow Danielle Romeril Faustein Steinmetz J. JS Lee Liam Fahy Lucas Nascimento Marques’Almeida Nasir Mazhar Ryan Lo Simone Rocha Sister by Sibling Sophia Webster
NEWGEN PANEL 2013–14
Sarah Mower MBEBFC Ambassador of Emerging Talent (Chair)
Alexander FuryThe Independent
Emma Elwick-BatesVogue
Holli RogersNet-a-Porter
Kate PhelanTOPSHOP
Laura BurlingtonFashion Consultant
Laura LarbalestierBrowns Fashion
Madelaine EvansTOPSHOP
Mary KatrantzouDesigner
Melanie RickeyGrazia & Fashion Editor at Large
Rebecca LowthorpeELLE
Ruth ChapmanMatchesfashion.com
Yasmin SewellFashion Consultant
6160
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 NEWGEN MEN
In August 2009, the BFC launched NEWGEN MEN, sponsored by Topman, offering emerging menswear designers in the UK a support initiative to assist in showcasing their collections and receive business mentoring and support.
With this initiative the BFC is able to promote the breadth of British menswear talent internationally. Designers are selected by a menswear committee of leading editors and buyers.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
Agi & Sam Astrid Andersen Common Diego Vanassibara Kit Neale Lee Roach Martine Rose Matthew Miller Nasir Mazhar Shaun Samson
NEWGEN MEN PANEL 2013–14
Caroline RushBritish Fashion Council (Chair)
Catherine HaywardEsquire
Charlie PorterCharlieporter.net
Damien PaulMatchesfashion.com
Darren SkeyHarvey Nichols
Gordon RichardsonTOPMAN
Jason GriffithsTOPMAN
Robert JohnstonGQ
Sam LobbanMr Porter
Tim BlanksStyle.com
FASHION FORWARD
Fashion Forward, sponsored by eBay and supported by the Mayor of London, was established in 2006 to provide funding to talented emerging British designers showing at London Fashion Week and London Collections: Men.
As well as the funding towards their catwalk show, selected designers also have access to structured mentoring support to help them develop their businesses.
SUPPORTED WOMENSWEAR DESIGNERS 2013–14
J. JS Lee Nasir Mazhar Sophia Webster
FASHION FORWARD WOMENSWEAR PANEL 2013–14
Caroline RushBritish Fashion Council (Chair)
Caroline IssaTank Magazine
David HayesFinancial Times
Oscar PintoHervia Bazaar
SUPPORTED MENSWEAR DESIGNERS 2013–14
Christopher Raeburn Lou Dalton Sibling
FASHION FORWARD MENSWEAR PANEL 2013–14
Caroline RushBritish Fashion Council (Chair)
Charlie PorterCharlieporter.net
Damien PaulMatchesfashion.com
Robert Johnston GQ
Sam Lobban Mr Porter
Tim BlanksStyle.com
63
62
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“NEWGEN IS THE WORLD’S MOST GLOBALLY RECOGNISED
FASHION DESIGN TALENT IDENTIFICATION SCHEME”
ALICE NEWBOLD, THE DAILY TELEGRAPH
6564
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
NEW
GEN
DESI
GN
ER
S SS
14
NEW
GEN
MEN
DESI
GN
ER
S SS
14
6766
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
FASH
ION
FO
RW
AR
D D
ESI
GN
ER
S SS
14
CELE
BR
ATIO
N O
F LC
:M A
T TH
E B
RIT
ISH
RESI
DEN
CE O
F H
M C
ON
SUL
GEN
ER
AL
NEW
YO
RK
6968
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BFC/GQ DESIGNER MENSWEAR FUND
The BFC launched the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund in 2013, supported by Vertu, to extend further support for British menswear businesses to expand internationally.
The BFC/GQ Fund provides one designer with a bespoke, high level mentoring support programme over a twelve month period, as well as a £150,000 grant to provide necessary infrastructure to take them to the next stage of their business and £50,000 value in kind services. The BFC/GQ Fund is aimed at businesses that have been trading for a minimum of three years, with UK and international stockists and who have graduated through the existing BFC talent support schemes or are at a similar stage in their business.
In January 2013, a panel of industry experts shortlisted five menswear designers who demonstrated the potential to develop into a global brand and benefit from the support that the BFC/GQ Fund offers. The winner will be announced in June 2014.
Vertu, lead partner on The BFC/GQ Fund will assist in developing the mentoring programme and give access to its team of business leaders in technology, global distribution, legal and finance.
SHORTLISTED DESIGNERS 2014
Christopher Raeburn Christopher Shannon E. Tautz Lou Dalton Richard Nicoll
BFC FASHION TRUST
The BFC Fashion Trust was founded in 2011 and offers designer business support through mentoring and financial awards to promote the art and business of fashion.
The initiative has a network of advisors, mentors and businesses for designers to access including: Taylor Wessing LLP who specialise in copyright and IP law; global investment firm Rothschild; and The Future Laboratory, which delivers trend forecasting, consumer insight and brand strategy to the luxury and fashion sectors.
The designer support programme, which includes seminars and 1:1 mentoring, is developed by BFC Chief Executive, Caroline Rush; and the Founder Members committee and its co-chairs, Kim Hersov and Tania Fares work with the BFC on fundraising and the allocation of designer support grants.
Since its beginning the BFC Fashion Trust has awarded grants to the following designers to help and promote their business:
Christopher Kane Jonathan SaundersMarios SchwabMary KatrantzouNicholas KirkwoodOsmanPeter PilottoRichard NicollRoksanda IlincicTodd Lynn
The BFC Fashion Trust also has a global network of supporters, with hubs in LA, New York and Hong Kong to support designers as they travel to these key markets. Jessica de Rothschild is supporting the development of a network in the US and Yana Peel in Hong Kong.
MEMBER PROGRAMME
The BFC Fashion Trust is funded by private donors, who receive an exclusive cultural fashion insider programme across the year curated by Arts Co.
The 2013–14 member programme included talks by Chris Sanderson of Future Laboratory, Paul Teague, APAC CEO of Net-a-Porter, Alexandra Shulman in conversation with Matchesfashion.com Founder & CEO Tom Chapman, insights from the CEO of the CFDA Steven Kolb, Livia Firth on sustainable fashion; Paul van Zyl, Founder & CEO of Maiyet, curator-led tours by the V&A Museum, Solange Azagury Patridge, Charlotte Tilbury and designer studio tours of British fashion labels including, Alice Temperley, Anya Hindmarch, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Giles Deacon, Henry Holland, Holly Fulton, James Long, Lou Dalton, Lucas Nascimento, Michael van der Ham, Philip Treacy and Zoe Jordan.
The BFC Fashion Trust is a Trust of BFCVDFF — Charity Number 1139079.
7170
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND
The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund (The Fund) charity offers a significant financial award that enables a designer to considerably increase their profile as a creative British business.
The Fund helps to develop the infrastructure of the designer’s business to generate employment and with the assistance of high level mentoring, make the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand.
Nicholas Kirkwood was announced as the 2013 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner at a cocktail reception hosted by Natalie Massenet MBE and Alexandra Shulman OBE.
In May 2013 Jonathan Saunders, the third winner of The Fund, recruited key members for the team including a production manager, production assistant and product developer with the help of The Fund. The Fund also helped with the development of his menswear and pre-collection, as well as improving the company’s IT infrastructure. Through mentoring, Jonathan Saunders benefited from advice on merchandising which helped improve the range planning for his collections. The business also received support through the BFC Fashion Trust and Taylor Wessing working on worldwide trademark registration.
In January, Peter Pilotto was announced as the 2014 winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.
SHORTLISTED DESIGNERS 2014
Emilia Wickstead Henry Holland Mary Katrantzou Osman Zoe Jordan
WINNER 2014
Peter Pilotto
THE FUND COMMITTEE AND JUDGING PANEL
Alexandra Shulman OBEBritish Vogue (Chair)
Caroline RushBritish Fashion Council
Joan Burstein CBEBrowns
Luke LeitchThe Daily Telegraph
Mary HomerTOPSHOP
Susanne Tide-FraterBrand Consultant
Tony YusufHardy Amies
BFC WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE FOLLOWING FOR THEIR SUPPORT 2013–14
Burberry Clothing at Tesco Debenhams Harrods Paul Smith TOPSHOP Vogue
PREVIOUS WINNERS
Nicholas Kirkwood (2013) Jonathan Saunders (2012) Christopher Kane (2011) Erdem (2010)
Registered Charity: BFCVDFF, 1139079
73PIL
LAR
S
72B
FC A
NN
UA
L R
EVI
EW 2
013
–14
JUST ANNOUNCED: @PETERPILOTTO WINS THE 2014 BFC/VOGUE
#DESIGNERFASHIONFUND @BRITISHVOGUE W
INN
ER
S O
F TH
E 2
014 B
FC/V
OG
UE D
ESI
GN
ER
FA
SHIO
N F
UN
D
7574
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BFC
/GQ
DESI
GN
ER
MEN
SWEA
R F
UN
D L
AU
NC
H E
VEN
T, B
FC/V
OG
UE D
ESI
GN
ER
FA
SHIO
N F
UN
D I
NTE
RV
IEW
S
BFC
/VO
GU
E D
ESI
GN
ER
FA
SHIO
N F
UN
D W
INN
ER
AN
NO
UN
CEM
EN
T
7776
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON SHOW ROOMS
LONDON show ROOMS (LsR) provides a unique opportunity for British designers to be collectively promoted in international markets. These pop-up showrooms are a strategic element of the BFC’s designer support pathway.
A project aimed at boosting British designer exports, LsR has grown to include showrooms for womenswear and menswear collections in Paris, New York, Los Angeles and most recently Sao Paulo. This has been made possible by the support of Farfetch who sponsored LsR from January 2013 to November 2013.
The showroom is a space for designers to sell their collections to a trade audience with the support of international marketing, media and sales advisers. LsR is supported by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) and UK Trade & Investment (UKTI).
Each showroom is curated to provide maximum impact in each market. During 2013–14, the following designers participated in the LONDON show ROOMS initiative.
1205 Agi & Sam Aitor Throup Alan Taylor Ashley Williams Astrid Andersen Baartmans & Siegel Barbara Casasola Bobby Abley Casely-Hayford Christopher Raeburn Claire Barrow Common Craig Green Danielle Romeril David Koma Diego Vanassibara Dominic Jones E. Tautz Fashion East Men Fyodor Golan Helen Lawrence Holly Fulton House Of Holland J. JS Lee J.W. Anderson James Long Kit Neale
KTZ Lee Roach Lou Dalton Louise Alsop Lucas Nascimento Marios Schwab Marques’Almeida Martine Rose Matthew Miller Michael van der Ham Mr Start Nasir Mazhar Nicholas Kirkwood palmer//harding Peter Pilotto Piers Atkinson Richard Nicoll Ryan Lo Shaun Samson Sibling Simone Rocha Sister By Sibling Sophia Webster T.Lipop Teatum Jones Thomas Tait Todd Lynn
LAAutumn/Winter 13 10th April – 11th April 2013
New YorkAutumn/Winter 13 16th – 17th April 2013
Paris MenSpring/Summer 14 28th June – 2nd July 2013
Paris WomenSpring/Summer 14 26th September – 3rd October 2013
LASpring/Summer 14 6th November 2013
Sao PauloSpring/Summer 14 12th November 2013
Paris MenAutumn/Winter 14 17th January – 21st January 2014
Paris WomenAutumn/Winter 14 26th February – 5th March 2014
LON
DO
N S
HO
W R
OO
MS
LOS
AN
GEL
ES A
W13
8180
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N S
HO
W R
OO
MS
LOS
AN
GEL
ES,
NEW
YO
RK
AW
14
LON
DO
N S
HO
W R
OO
MS
LOS
AN
GEL
ES, N
EW Y
OR
K A
W14
& P
AR
IS M
EN S
S14
83
82
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N S
HO
W R
OO
MS
PAR
IS S
S14
& L
OS
AN
GEL
ES,
PAR
IS A
W14
LON
DO
N S
HO
W R
OO
MS
SAO
PAU
LO S
S14,
PA
RIS
AW
14 &
PAR
IS M
EN S
S14
8584
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON STYLE SUITES
London Style Suites aims to increase the profile and presence of British designers on the red carpet.
November 2013 saw the BFC launch London Style Suites in partnership with luxury fashion e-tailer, STYLEBOP.com; a new initiative to promote a selection of Britain’s most talented red carpet designers in Los Angeles from the 7th – 8th November 2013 at Chateau Marmont in Hollywood. Los Angeles is the global home of the red carpet and activity in this market is aimed at securing these British designers’ reputations as the go-to brands for the increasing number of events during the awards season.
The participating designers were:
David Koma
A BFC Fashion Forward recipient, Koma’s clients include Eva Longoria, Beyoncé and Naomi Campbell.
Emilia Wickstead
Shortlisted for the 2013 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, Wickstead provides her clients, including The Duchess of Cambridge, with a made-to-measure service. Suki Waterhouse, Poppy Delevingne and Caitlin Fitzgerald have all since worn Emilia Wickstead on the red carpet.
Mary Katrantzou
Emerging Talent Award winner at the 2011 British Fashion Awards, Katrantzou’s clients include Diane Kruger, Beyoncé, Rihanna and Jessica Alba.
Matthew Williamson
Globally established British designer of red carpet dresses, Williamson’s clients include Sienna Miller, Andrea Riseborough and Allison Williams.
Osman
BFC NEWGEN graduate and BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund nominee, Osman’s clients include Selena Gomez, Olivia Wilde and Kristen Stewart.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
One of London’s most distinctive and successful labels, Preen’s clients include Cate Blanchett, Kate Bosworth and Amanda Seyfried.
Each of these participants, as well as designers Roksanda Ilincic, Marios Schwab, Nicholas Kirkwood and Sophia Webster created a custom designed piece especially for STYLEBOP.com.
Combined, the pieces formed a capsule collection that was sold exclusively at STYLEBOP.com.
LON
DO
N S
TYLE
SU
ITES
LOS
AN
GEL
ES S
S14
8786
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
HEA
DO
NIS
M A
T B
RO
WN
S FA
SHIO
NHEADONISM
Headonism, curated by Stephen Jones OBE, is an initiative supporting emerging British milliners by providing a platform for sales and promotion throughout the year.
Headonism was launched as part of the BFC’s 25 year celebrations by the Mayor of London. In addition to showcasing onsite at LFW, selected emerging designers are given other opportunities to showcase their collections. Recent events have included a pop-up event at Browns Fashion and a window display at Royal Ascot.
All designers receive mentoring and business support from Stephen Jones OBE, Piers Atkinson and Noel Stewart.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
Aurora Ozma Emma Yeo Keely Hunter Moody and Farrell William Chambers
8988
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 ESTETHICA
Since its launch eight years ago, Estethica has supported over 100 UK & international designers from over 20 countries, all of whom have been chosen for their design excellence and commitment to transparency, sustainability and social responsibility.
Estethica has evolved to become one of the most established fashion initiatives to support environmental sustainability and best practice and continues to drive the UK as leaders in this arena.
During SS14, Liora Lassalle, winner of the Estethica Re-Source competition with Central Saint Martins showcased her second collection as part of Estethica, which provided a platform for post graduates. Liora and other Estethica designers were also available to buy online from YOOXYGEN, yoox.com’s eco-friendly initiative for the sixth consecutive season.
In February 2014, for the first time, there was a dedicated London Fashion Week (LFW) Emerging Talent Showroom, with five new designers from France, Italy and the UK. The more established sustainable designer businesses were integrated throughout the LFW Designer Showrooms at Somerset House to demonstrate that these businesses can sit alongside their peers and in doing so can grow their audiences and reach.
All Estethica designers adhere to at least one of the key Estethica principles: fair trade and ethical practice in the production process, the inclusion of organic fibres or the use of up-cycled and recycled fabrics and materials.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
Ada Zanditon Auria Beautiful Soul London Bottletop Cangiari Devika Dass Flavia La Rocca K2TOG Katrien Van Hecke Liora Lassalle Louise de Testa Mich Dulce Pachacuti People Tree Phannatiq Sonya Kashmiri
BFC FASHION FILM
BFC Fashion Film, sponsored by River Island, was founded in February 2012 and funds, showcases and mentors the next generation of fashion and film creators in the UK.
The BFC and River Island host dedicated film screenings and builds relationships across the two industries to mentor young talent and provide funding for short films.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
Christopher RaeburnElena Crehan (Dazed collaboration)Emilio de la Morena Felipe Rojas Llanos (Dazed collaboration)Fred Butler Jean Pierre BraganzaJonathan SaundersLeutton Postle My Crazy ScrunchieNicomede Talavera (Dazed collaboration)
ROCK VAULT
Rock Vault is a jewellery initiative to support, showcase and promote Britain’s most innovative fine jewellery talent.
Curated by Stephen Webster MBE and developed by the BFC, Rock Vault launched during LFW in February 2012. The initiative is designed to give designers the opportunity to further develop their businesses and increase their exposure amongst UK and international media and retailers. The initiative awards selected designers business support mentoring. In May 2013, the Rock Vault designers participated in the Couture Jewellery Show Las Vegas supported by Stephen Webster.
SUPPORTED DESIGNERS 2013–14
Alice Cicolini Fernando Jorge Hannah Martin Imogen Belfield Jacqueline Cullen Jo Hayes Ward Melanie Georgacopoulos Ornella Iannuzzi Tomasz Donocik Yunus & Eliza
9190
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BFC BUSINESS SUPPORT
The BFC hosts an annual programme of events, seminars and round table discussions to provide mentoring and business support for British designers.
BUSINESS SUPPORT NETWORK
The Business Support Network is an online easy access tool found on britishfashioncouncil.com/businesssupportnetwork
The Business Support Network provides information about organisations offering business support to the fashion industry from showcasing opportunities and funding, to training and advice for manufacturers and designers.
DESIGNER FACT FILE
The Designer Fact File is an online guide to setting up a designer business.
Originally published in 1997 by the BFC, the Designer Fact File was re-launched online and the ongoing management of the designer fact file supports our aim to share knowledge with a broader designer community.
www.designerfactfile.com
INDUSTRY REPORTS
With support from UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) and European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) the BFC produces up to three market reports per year looking at cities in established and emerging markets to create in-depth views of the designer fashion landscape and opportunities for British businesses.
When completed these reports are presented in seminars and are available to purchase from the BFC.
The BFC also uses this information to update its database and for targeting buyers to attend London Fashion Week, London Collections: Men and LONDON show ROOMS.
LONDON FASHION SHOWCASING FUND
The London Fashion Showcasing Fund (LFSF) supports events taking place throughout the year which showcase the talents of emerging fashion designers.
With funding from the Mayor of London, the BFC manages the Fund’s application and delivery process with the support of a high level panel of industry press and buyers. Funding recipients during 2013–14 were Fashion East, Fashion East MAN, Fashion Scout London and Ecoluxe London.
DIGITAL WORKSHOP
The BFC hosted a digital strategy and mentoring workshop at the Google Campus for designers including Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Roksanda Ilincic, Prism & Henry Holland. The designers were invited to one-to-one digital surgeries to meet digital experts and find out about retail analysis, digital strategy, social communication & international growth.
FIRST RETAIL STORE SEMINAR
In partnership with CBRE, the BFC Fashion Trust hosted a small seminar for designers on the pros and cons of opening the first retail store, the hot spots within the capital, the emerging areas and managing the relationship with the landlord.
Frederick Lukoff, President & CEO of Stella McCartney gave insight into the brand’s experience of opening their first store including the pitfalls, the myths, the benefits, what to look out for and what to expected.
HEADONISM MENTORING SESSION
The aim of this session was to mentor and offer guidance to the Headonism designers.
Those invited were Piers Atkinson, Noel Stewart and Leslie Robeson and Annika Lievesley from Stephen Jones (The Curator). The designers were able to ask questions to help advise them on issues related to their business.
HOW TO GROW YOUR BRAND WITH FINANCE
Tom Jamison, Lloyds’ relationship manager for their commercial banking division, spoke about business banking and bank facilities, cashflow, funding options such as loans, EFG lending, and invoice financing, and what brands should expect from the relationship with their bank.
BUSINESS SUPPORT WORKSHOPS
Business support workshops and seminars throughout the year provide an opportunity for designers to receive mentoring from industry experts on key topics such as finance, banking, accounting and legal. The following workshops and seminars took place during 2013–14 for designers who are part of our support who are part of our designer business support initiatives.
BUSINESS FINANCE, ACCOUNTING AND TAX
Andrew Jordan, a partner at Baker Tilly, delivered a workshop on business planning, monitoring financial performance, financial forecasting, tax and VAT, funding options, and what a brand can expect from their accountant at different levels.
DIGITAL CONFERENCE
The BFC Fashion Trust Digital Conference was held at the Google UK Headquarters.
The conference aimed to give the designers insight and spark thought into their online presence including their website, social media platforms, online sales and their online reputation. The day started with an opening talk by Peter Fitzgerald, the President of the BFC Innovation & Digital Pillar. The other speakers and topics were:
− Chris Sanderson, FutureLab: The Future Lab: The Digital World within a Luxury Market
− Ishan Patel, Aurora Fashion: Retailing Online
− Kerem Atasoy, Google: Making the Web Work for Fashion
− Joanna Aston, Google: Topshop Reimagines the Future of the Fashion Show with Google+
− Maddy Macey, Commercial Director and Natalie Thng, Head of E-commerce (Temperley London): In Conversation with Caroline Rush: Challenges of Getting Brand Online.
9392
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY AND TRADEMARKING IN CHINA
Ed Chatterton, a partner from the Hong Kong office of DLA Piper, spoke about the challenges of trademark squatting and intellectual property law in China.
He gave case studies of brands who had problems there, and advice on how to prevent or overcome these issues.
INVESTMENT PANEL DISCUSSION
BFC Fashion Trust legal partner, Taylor Wessing organised and hosted a panel discussion and industry networking event for the supported designers.
The panel, which included Benjamin Chan, ISSA; Barry Mulholland, Christopher Kane Ltd and Tara Alhadeff, Permira, discussed issues relating to investment in the fashion sector: ways of raising or providing capital, tips and pitfalls.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN WORKSHOP
The objective of this seminar is to prepare designers taking part in London Collections: Men (LC:M). All Designer Showrooms designers and NEWGEN designers are invited to attend the workshop which is held at The Hospital Club.
A member from each department at the BFC, including events, marketing and online, give an overview on their area of expertise and key pointers to help the designers. Representatives from the BFC’s PR department also give a comprehensive summary of accredited buyers attending LC:M, along with a sales and merchandising presentation.
LONDON FASHION WEEK WORKSHOP
The objective of this seminar is to prepare designers taking part in London Fashion Week (LFW).
All Designer Showrooms designers and NEWGEN designers are invited to attend the workshop which is held at The Mayfair Hotel. A member from each department at the BFC, including events, marketing and online, give an overview on their area of expertise and key pointers to help and prepare the designers. Representatives from the BFC’s PR department also give a comprehensive summary of accredited buyers attending LFW, along with a sales and merchandising presentation.
TRADING TERMS & CONDITIONS AND BRAND & DESIGN PROTECTION
Tim O’Callaghan, a partner at Druces whose specialist area is corporate and commercial law, spoke about how to protect your brand using trading T&Cs, what different clauses mean and the impact they can have on any disputes or issues that might arise to do with trading, stockists, suppliers and consumers.
SIM
ON
E R
OC
HA
SS1
4
9594
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“THERE IS NO OTHER CITY IN THE WORLD WHERE THERE’S
A FASHION COUNCIL THAT SUPPORTS DESIGNERS SO MUCH AND GIVES THEM A PLATFORM”
GLORIA BAUME, TEEN VOGUE
TOP
MA
N D
ESI
GN
AW
14
SAV
ILE R
OW
& S
T JA
MES
SS14
101
100
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
REPUTATION
103
102
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council is charged with promoting the UK fashion
industry and its designers internationally via a targeted multi-channel and
multi-lingual communications strategy. Events are aimed at developing key
audiences and those that take place in the UK are supported with a targeted
guest programme and accreditation lists for participating designers and brands.
105
104
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“LONDON IS KNOWN FOR ITS CREATIVITY BUT IS FAST DEVELOPING
ITS REPUTATION FOR SUCCESSFUL AND INTERESTING CREATIVE
BUSINESSES. IF YOU TAKE A LOOK AT THE WINNERS AND SHORTLISTED
DESIGNERS OF THE BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND YOU WILL
SEE SOME GREAT EXAMPLES OF THIS” ALEXANDRA SHULMAN OBE, VOGUE
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
AW
14
109
108
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON FASHION WEEK
London Fashion Week (LFW) takes place twice a year in February and September showcasing over 250 designers to a global audience of influential media and retailers. It is estimated that orders of over £100m are placed during LFW each season.
LONDON FASHION WEEK SS14 SEPTEMBER 2013
LFW September 2013 showcased some of the world’s leading fashion talent. Set over five days, the schedule was packed with 15 presentations and 58 catwalk shows including Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Mulberry, Tom Ford, Sophia Webster and Vivienne Westwood alongside Barbara Casasola, Manolo Blahnik and Smythson who joined the schedule for the first time. The Designer Showrooms at LFW showcased nearly 150 brands. The Designer Showrooms were zoned into ready-to-wear on the first floor including emerging talent, contemporary, luxe, tailoring, streetwear, accessories and knitwear.
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2013 winner Nicholas Kirkwood worked with the BFC to create bespoke visual event branding and marketing materials that were used across LFW. International press from 51 countries and international buyers from 52 countries were in attendance with over 5,000 trade audience.
September spearheaded a city-wide campaign to engage consumers in the excitement surrounding LFW. From events and shopping opportunities to digital initiatives and live streaming, the general public were invited to engage with LFW in an open letter from Chairman of the BFC, Natalie Massenet MBE that was published in the Evening Standard.
In September 2013 the Oxford Street Fashion Showcase was launched to cement Oxford Street’s credentials as one of the most iconic fashion destinations in the world. Running over LFW, 15 of the most internationally recognisable fashion flagships on Oxford Street hosted high octane fashion moments, exclusive experiences and insider insights. Participating retailers included Gap, H&M, House of Fraser, John Lewis, River Island, Selfridges and Topshop. To herald the launch, the New West End Company (NWEC) worked with the BFC to secure five LFW designers to dress the street with 75 fashion flags. The flags featured designers Alice Temperley, Giles, House of Holland, Matthew Williamson and Topshop Unique, were 12 foot in height, sailed high above the fashion flagships for 17 days and were seen by excess of 12 million shoppers from more than 200 countries.
The BFC created a brand new marketing initiative, #FashionFriday to unite and promote digital fashion content every Friday, creating a dedicated opportunity each week for fashion followers to celebrate the latest fashion happenings. The #FashionFriday news bulletin was broadcast to London’s vast commuter audience on London Underground platform screens, as part of a partnership with CBS Outdoor (Experian Media) every Friday. September also saw the launch of an on-site pop-up shop celebrating British contemporary fashion at LFW with a logo designed by Sir Peter Blake. The Shop was
open to the public, selling AW13 ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes by brands including Bella Freud, DJ by Dominic Jones, House of Holland, Lulu & Co., Markus Lupfer, Sophia Webster and Zoe Jordan. In addition to selling the latest products, a series of pop-up events took place including flash sales, musical performances, readings, interviews and guest appearances.
Also on-site, in celebration of London’s internationally- renowned “street style,” the BFC partnered with Instagram to share the best looks from the Somerset House Courtyard over LFW. The “InstaBooth” was on-site all week long, giving visitors the chance to photograph themselves in their look of the day, print images as souvenirs, and share their favourites on Facebook. Other social media campaigns included Twitter Q&A sessions using #AskLFW and an on-site social media wall bringing together the largest crowd-sourced insight into LFW, featuring fashion images from Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. For the first time ever, the BFC live streamed shows including Christopher Raeburn, Sister by Sibling and Simone Rocha directly to its Twitter feed. In total 29 shows were live streamed to the LFW website and YouTube channel.
PRINCIPAL SPONSOR
Vodafone
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
BeautyDrinkCanonDHLeBayLavazza CoffeeLondon Evening StandardM•A•CThe May Fair HotelMercedes-BenzSamsung GALAXYScavi & RayTONI&GUYTOPSHOP
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
CBS OutdoorF&FFashion MonitorGreen & Blacks Ice CreamIDMLG ElectronicsMascottePenhaligon’sPropercorn RightsterTriumph
OFFICIAL FUNDERS
European Regional Development FundMayor of LondonUK Trade & Investment
111
PIL
LAR
S
110
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
SS1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
SS1
4
113
PIL
LAR
S
112
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
SS1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
SS1
4
115
114
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
GLENDA BAILEY OBE, HARPER’S BAZAAR US
“I EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED, AND LONDON ALWAYS DELIVERS — FROM BURBERRY’S DELICIOUS
COLOUR PALETTE TO ERDEM’S ROMANCE TO TOM FORD’S
DECADENCE. AND NOT JUST ON THE RUNWAYS, THE STYLE ON THE
STREETS IS JUST AS EXCITING”
OXF
OR
D S
TREET
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
SS1
4
119
118
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON FASHION WEEK AW14 FEBRUARY 2014
LFW February 2014 showcased some of the world’s leading fashion talent. The UK media value alone saw the event amass over £200 million in media value. Set over five days, the schedule was packed with, presentations, installations, 77 shows including Anya Hindmarch, Emilia Wickstead, ISSA London, J.W. Anderson, Meadham Kirchhoff, Paul Smith, Peter Pilotto and Roksanda Ilincic.
A highlight was the Topshop show venue, in the Turbine Hall of the Tate Modern, Southbank. The venue showcased one of London’s architectural treasures and cultural centres as well as allowing, for the first time, consumers to view all shows hosted in the venue from the balcony above. The Burberry show, within a new space of Kensington Gardens, was filled with live music performed by Ed Harcourt, Paloma Faith and Rhodes. Christopher Kane, showing at 180 The Strand, presented for the first time his own line of handbags.
The Designer Showrooms welcomed 56 new designers and was zoned into ready-to-wear on the first floor including emerging talent, contemporary, luxe, tailoring, streetwear and knitwear. Additionally, the Showrooms welcomed catwalk collections by Christopher Raeburn, Fyodor Golan, Nasir Mazhar, J. JS Lee and palmer//harding. At a breakfast press conference hosted by Chairman of the BFC, Natalie Massenet MBE revealed that the direct value of the UK fashion industry to the UK economy had grown substantially over the last five years to a staggering £26 billion.
February shone the spotlight on London’s creative industries as LFW, the BAFTA Film Awards and The BRIT Awards showcased the very best of each industry’s outstanding talents in the space of just six days. To celebrate, all three industries came together to host an event at Spencer House. As well as the trade events, there were more ways than ever for the public to enjoy the LFW experience with live streaming, social media and a line-up of events and exhibitions around town. The International Fashion Showcase (IFS) saw over 30 embassies and cultural institutions across London create fashion exhibitions to display their emerging fashion designers. The showcase was open to the public, giving everyone the chance to explore work by some of the most innovative young fashion designers from around the world. For the first time a central venue at 180 The Strand housed 14 showcases.
The Shop reopened its doors over LFW and Vodafone London Fashion Weekend with an edit of contemporary collections for sale in the space designed once again by Robert Storey. Participating designers included Bella Freud, DJ by Dominic Jones, Keely Hunter, Markus Lupfer, Prism and Zoe Jordan.
To mark the start of London Fashion Week on Valentine’s Day, the BFC launched the #LoveLFW campaign. Fashion fans were encouraged to share their favourite fashion image, runway look or campaign using hashtag #LoveLFW. The best images featured on a dedicated Pinterest board, shared on Twitter and entered into a prize draw to win two tickets to Vodafone London Fashion Weekend. To coincide with the campaign, a ‘Twitter Mirror’ was installed backstage at three of the shows encouraging models to tweet selfie style images of themselves in their runway looks as they prepared to hit the catwalk. Other social media campaigns included Twitter Q&A sessions using #AskLFW and an on-site social media wall bringing together the largest crowd-sourced insight into LFW, featuring fashion images from Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. In total over 40 shows were live streamed to the official LFW website. Additionally, over the course of the week, global file sharing service WeTransfer showcased the illustrations from the shows by Damien Cuypers as part of a collaboration with the BFC.
Fashion Film hosted an event with River Island and BFC ambassador Laura Bailey at 180 The Strand. The evening featured an exclusive preview of the Yves Saint Laurent feature film and other short films from Roland Mouret, Ellen Von Unworth, i-D magazine, British Vogue and Katie Eary’s collaboration with River Island.
LFW AW14, FACTS & FIGURES
Last season there were 75,000 images added to Instagram that including hashtag #LFW.
Last season there were 176,000 mentions of #LFW on Twitter.
London Fashion Week live streams are watched in 160 countries worldwide.
PRINCIPAL SPONSOR
Vodafone
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
BeautyDrinkCanonDHLeBayLavazza CoffeeLondon Evening StandardM•A•CThe May Fair HotelMercedes-BenzSamsung GALAXYScavi & RaySwatchTONI&GUYTOPSHOP
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
CBS OutdoorFashion MonitorIDM LG ElectronicsPenhaligon’sPropercornRightsterTriumph
OFFICIAL FUNDERS
European Regional Development FundMayor of LondonUK Trade & Investment
121
PIL
LAR
S
120
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
AW
14
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
AW
14
123
PIL
LAR
S
122
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
AW
14
LON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
AW
14
125
124
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“LONDON FASHION WEEK KEEPS ITS PROMISES. THE EMERGING
DESIGNERS REVEAL THEMSELVES, THE NEW ESTABLISHMENT STAND STRONG AND BLOSSOM, AND THE
BIG NAMES MARCH ON”
EMELIE FAURE, LE FIGARO
127
PIL
LAR
S
126
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
CR
EAT
IVE L
ON
DO
N F
EBR
UAR
Y 14
CR
EAT
IVE L
ON
DO
N F
EBR
UAR
Y 14
129
128
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND
For four days, the magnificent Somerset House plays host to Britain’s biggest biannual consumer fashion showcase.
Vodafone London Fashion Weekend is a chance for consumers to experience first-hand insider knowledge and style advice from the heart of LFW. The event takes place as soon as LFW closes its doors offering guests designer shopping, catwalk shows, hair and beauty pop-ups and educational panels and talks from leading industry experts.
September 2013 saw the event host pop-ups by Browns and Joseph, feature catwalk shows by designers including Ashish, Giles, Holly Fulton and Julien Macdonald with the trend shows styled by Pandora Lennard. The official show bag was designed by Sister by Sibling and speakers at the event included Camilla Morton, Author; Emma Farrow, Head of Design, Topshop; Rebekah Roy, Stylist and Sarah Richardson, Lord Mayor of Westminster.
February 2014’s packed schedule featured designer shows by Amanda Wakeley, Farhi by Nicole Farhi, Julien Macdonald and Maria Grachvogel. For the first time the trend shows were styled by the OUTNET.COM and the official bag designed by Julien Macdonald. Speakers included Amanda Wakeley, Hilary Alexander OBE, and Yasmin Le Bon with a competition for bloggers judged by Sasha Wilkins of Liberty London Girl.
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND SEPTEMBER 2013
TITLE SPONSOR
Vodafone
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
BeautyDrinkCanonKinder BuenoLavazza CoffeeMarks & SpencerMaybellineThe May Fair HotelTONI&GUY
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
DFSElleKalloKusmi TeaLevi’sTriumph
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND FEBRUARY 2014
TITLE SPONSOR
Vodafone
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
BeautyDrinkCanonKinder BuenoLavazza CoffeeMarks & SpencerMaybellineThe May Fair HotelScavi + RaySunglass HutSwatchTONI&GUY
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
ElleLevi’s Revel Muller Light Triumph
VO
DA
FON
E L
ON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
EN
D A
W14
133
132
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
IMA
GE T
ITLE
LO
CAT
ION
DAT
E
VO
DA
FON
E L
ON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
EN
D
VO
DA
FON
E L
ON
DO
N F
ASH
ION
WEEK
EN
D
135
134
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN
London Collections: Men (LC:M) is a biannual showcase that takes place every January and June and celebrates the creative and commercial importance of the British menswear industry.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SS14 JUNE 2013
In June, LC:M presented the best of British menswear in a showcase that saw 134 designers participate in shows, presentations, installations and events including Agi & Sam, Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, Lou Dalton, Richard Nicoll, Tom Ford and Richard James. There were 30 shows, 22 presentations, 36 onsite showrooms, 21 on schedule events and three official show venues at LC:M SS14. Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana and Dylan Jones OBE, Chair of LC:M, opened the SS14 season with an event on Saturday 15th June. Burberry showed its mainline menswear collection in London after more than 10 years of showing in Milan, joined by internationally acclaimed brands rag & bone, Jimmy Choo — who also co-hosted an event with Esquire — and Pringle of Scotland which showed in London for the very first time.
The BFC commissioned a V&A study, supported by the British Museum, which explored the history of British menswear and sealed London’s reputation as the historical home of menswear. From bowler hats to wellington boots, the study travels in time from 1528 to the present day, identifying ten iconic styles that originated in Britain and have since become mainstays in international menswear. The study was accompanied by a menswear heritage map of London that was launched on Savile Row by the Mayor of London. Savile Row & St James’s presented The English Gentleman at Lord’s Pavilion; a presentation that featured a mix of models, dressed by the bespoke tailors of Savile Row and the The Woolmark Company, along with London’s best shirt makers and hatters. Styled by Jo Levin, Creative Fashion Director of GQ, over seventy different outfits were shown throughout the rooms and terraces of the Pavilion. The clothes ranged from cricket sweaters to summer sports jackets, blazers, light weight Cool Wool suits and flannel waistcoats with trousers.
The BFC brought the highlights of LC:M to a global audience across digital platforms. Daily Q&A sessions took place on Twitter, with guests including Menswear Ambassador, Dermot O’Leary; British gymnast, Louis Smith and Men’s Health Style Director, Dan Rookwood. Richard James and Oliver Cheshire took to Instagram, bringing their LC:M experience to followers from the official BFC Instagram account. Members of the public could watch live streamed shows from the TOPMAN Show Space and Burberry live streamed its show on Tuesday 18th June.
The BFC, River Island and Dazed & Confused hosted an evening of fashion film to celebrate British menswear on Sunday 16th June. Screenings included River Island’s Design Forum collaboration with T.Lipop; ‘London Collections: Men presents’, a film commissioned by the BFC and directed by Matt Lambert, and Dazed Rise, which introduced the work of three emerging menswear designers: Elena Crehan, Felipe Rojas Llanos & Nicomede Talavera.
Consumers were invited to celebrate LC:M by some of London’s most established retailers. In response to a letter from Boris Johnson and Dylan Jones OBE, stores including Harrods, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Liberty and H&M pledged their support with curated menswear windows and in-store displays over LC:M while Albam, Benson & Clegg, Edward Sexton and River Island offered discounts to LC:M guests.
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
FudgeGQGreat BritainHOMThe Hospital ClubLavazza CoffeeL’oreal Men ExpertMercedes-BenzMR PORTER.COMNyetimberRadisson Blu Edwardian, LondonRightsterTOPMANVodafoneThe Woolmark Company
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
Fashion MonitorJohn Lewis
OFFICIAL FUNDERS
European Regional Development FundMayor of LondonUK Trade & Investment
137
PIL
LAR
S
136
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
139
PIL
LAR
S
138
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
141
140
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“I AM DELIGHTED TO SUPPORT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN, WHICH WITH GREAT APLOMB SHOWS WHY
LONDON IS THE MENSWEAR CAPITAL OF THE WORLD”
BORIS JOHNSON, MAYOR OF LONDON
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
145
144
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AW14 JANUARY 2014
In January 2014, LC:M presented over 130 designers who participated in shows, presentations and events including Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Hardy Amies, J.W. Anderson, John Smedley, Katie Eary, Matthew Miller, Pringle of Scotland and Tom Ford. The Hospital Club, the Old Sorting Office and Victoria House were once again the official venues attracting press and buyers from 37 countries. The Designer Showrooms within the Hospital Club and Victoria House doubled in size in January 2014, showcasing a wide range of UK and international menswear brands. Over £40 million worth of UK and international media value was generated seeing a 55% rise year on year. The BFC appointed Nick Grimshaw as an official LC:M Menswear Ambassador alongside David Gandy, Dermot O’Leary and Tinie Tempah. Additionally, the BFC appointed Alannah Weston, Creative Director at Selfridges; Alexander Fury, Fashion Editor at the Independent; Catherine Hayward, Fashion Director at Esquire, Gillian de Bono, Editor of the FT’s How to Spend It and model Robert Konjic as new members of the LC:M Menswear Committee.
Contemporary brands Casely-Hayford and A.Sauvage held catwalk shows for the first time on the official show schedule and event highlights included an opening party by Esquire; a reception at Liberty hosted by Men’s Health and YMC; a dinner hosted by Jonathan Newhouse and Tommy Hilfiger, a Mulberry cocktail party and a LC:M dinner hosted by Dylan Jones OBE and Anya Hindmarch MBE. The Mayor of London, Boris Johnson launched a new campaign ‘London, Home of Menswear’ to coincide with LC:M. The campaign ran across the London Underground network from 3rd – 16th January aiming to raise awareness of how the menswear industry makes a vital contribution to London’s economy. Following on from the launch of the History and Heritage report in June 2013, this consumer focused campaign continued to engage the wider public in menswear. Savile Row and St James’s in collaboration with The Woolmark Company, presented The English Gentleman, organised by Anda Rowland, Vice-Chairman of Anderson & Sheppard Tailors, at the Cabinet War Rooms which featured over seventy models dressed by the bespoke tailors of Savile Row and St James’s styled by Jo Levin, Creative Fashion Director of GQ. The BFC shared highlights from LC:M with a global audience across digital platforms. Q&A sessions took place on Twitter with guests including new menswear ambassador, Nick Grimshaw. Topman streamed its show and post-show interviews live on Google+ Hangout. Members of the public were also able to watch live streamed shows from the MAN show and the Burberry show.
The BFC celebrated Fashion Film with an event sponsored by River Island, hosted by Miquita Oliver at the Old Sorting Office. The evening featured guest speakers including Alex Bilmes, Editor of Esquire and Timothy Long, curator at the Museum of London, who each presented a piece of film that they thought resonated within the menswear industry.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AW14, FACTS & FIGURES
International press and buyers from 37 countries attended the showcase in January 2014.
LC:M generated over £61 million in UK and international media value with coverage reaching an international audience in over 55 countries.
The London Home of Menswear campaign alone generated almost £1.5m in media coverage.
Over 15,000 images were added to Instagram with #LCM.
There were 29,400 uses of the hashtag #LCM on Twitter.
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
FudgeGQThe Hospital ClubLavazza CoffeeL’oreal Men ExpertMercedes-BenzMR PORTER.COMNyetimberRadisson Blu Edwardian, LondonSwatchTOPMANVodafoneThe Woolmark Company
OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS
Fashion MonitorPenhaligon’sQ VodkaRightsterSuperdryWarsteiner
OFFICIAL FUNDERS
European Regional Development FundMayor of LondonUK Trade & Investment
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN CHAIR
Dylan Jones OBE GQ
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AMBASSADORS
David GandyDermot O’LearyNick GrimshawTinie Tempah
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COMMITTEE
Adrian ClarkShortList
Alannah WestonSelfridges
Alex BilmesEsquire
Alexander FuryThe Independent
Anda RowlandAnderson & Sheppard
Andrew WeitzWME
Antony Miles10 Magazine
Catherine HaywardEsquire
Christopher Bailey MBEBurberry
Dan Stevens
David Furnish
David LaurenRalph Lauren
David Walker-SmithFenwick
David Walliams
Douglas Booth
Elizabeth SaltzmanVanity Fair
Evgeny Lebedev
Gillian de BonoHow To Spend It
Gordon RichardsonTOPMAN
Grant PearceGQ Asia Pacific
Harold Tillman CBE
Imran AmedBusiness of Fashion
Jefferson HackDazed Group
Jeremy LangmeadMr Porter
Jo LevinGQ
Luke LeitchThe Daily Telegraph
Lulu Kennedy MBE
Marigay McKeeSaks Fifth Avenue
Sir Paul Smith
Paula ReedMyTheresa.com
Richard Buckley
Richard James
Robert JohnstonGQ
Robert Konjic
Simon Fuller XIX Entertainment
Stephen AyresLiberty
Tim BlanksStyle.com
Toby WisemanMen’s Health
Tom Ford
Tom Hiddleston
Tracey Emin CBE
147
PIL
LAR
S
146
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
149
PIL
LAR
S
148
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
151
PIL
LAR
S
150
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“THE COUNTRY’S PROUD MENSWEAR HERITAGE AND OUTSTANDING
CONTEMPORARY TALENT GIVE IT A UNIQUE AND POWERFUL ENERGY. IT IS A WONDERFUL TIME TO BRING
OUR MENSWEAR SHOW HOME”
CHRISTOPHER BAILEY MBE, BURBERRY
153
PIL
LAR
S
152
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
155
PIL
LAR
S
154
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
SS1
4
157
PIL
LAR
S
156
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
LON
DO
N C
OLL
EC
TIO
NS:
MEN
AW
14
159
PIL
LAR
S
158
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
MINTEL
THE UK MENSWEAR MARKET HAS GROWN BY 12 PER CENT IN
THE PAST FIVE YEARS AND IS WORTH £10.4BN. THE MARKET
RESEARCH GROUP BELIEVES THE MARKET WILL MAINTAIN THIS
GROWTH AND RISE BY 11 PER CENT BETWEEN 2012 AND 2017.
ALE
XAN
DER
MC
QU
EEN
SS1
4
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
165
164
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BRITISH FASHION AWARDS
Once a year, the BFC presents the British Fashion Awards (BFA). This event is an opportunity for the fashion industry to celebrate and promote the extraordinary creative talents in the UK.
The 2013 BFAs were held on Monday 2nd December at the London Coliseum. The evening alone amassed over £50 million worth of UK media value. Guests including Samantha Cameron, Donatella Versace, Gwyneth Paltrow, Harry Styles, Kate Moss, Marc Jacobs, Miuccia Prada, Rita Ora, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Sienna Miller, Sir Philip Green and Tinie Tempah joined British designers to celebrate the successes of the fashion industry over the past year.
The evening saw a total of 16 awards presented to the leading figures in fashion, recognising creative talent and design excellence across all areas of the industry. The ceremony was hosted by one of the UK’s most exciting comedy talents, Jack Whitehall, and was attended by industry members, including retailers, models, celebrities and media, and members of the public who purchased tickets to attend. To recognise the ever-increasing globalisation of the fashion industry, the International Designer of the Year award was introduced this year to celebrate an international designer making waves on the global fashion scene; and the Creative Campaign of the Year, an award recognising the creativity behind the most innovative and dynamic piece of editorial or advertising in the past year.
This year, the BFC approached over 300 members of the fashion industry to vote for the winners of this year’s accolades. The panel included world leading industry insiders, journalists, buyers, influencers and opinion formers including Alexandra Shulman OBE, Alex Bilmes, Alison Edmond, Anna Wintour OBE, Dylan Jones OBE, Edward Enninful, Glenda Bailey OBE, Jefferson Hack, Joan Burstein CBE, Justine Picardie, Laura Bailey, Lorraine Candy, Lulu Kennedy MBE, Natalie Massenet MBE, Poppy Delevingne, Suzy Menkes OBE and Tim Blanks. In addition to the award category winners announced on the night, Special Recognition Awards celebrated two individuals who have shaped the fashion industry over the past 25 years: Suzy Menkes OBE was honoured with the award in recognition of her 25-year career at the International New York Times, formerly the International Herald Tribune, British supermodel and icon Kate Moss was acknowledged for her 25-year long career and continued influence on the fashion industry as the fashion icon of her generation.
The British Fashion Awards is realised with invaluable support from its sponsors:
PRESENTING SPONSORS
Canon M•A•CTONI&GUYVodafoneWestfield
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
AMERICAN EXPRESS®
Hello!Marks & SpencerMercedes-BenzTequila Patrón
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Christopher Kanepresented by Donatella Versace
OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION
Terry and Tricia Jonespresented by Dylan Jones OBE
INTERNATIONAL DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Miuccia Pradapresented by Gwyneth Paltrow
DESIGNER BRAND OF THE YEAR
Burberrypresented by Sienna Miller
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Christopher Bailey for Burberrypresented by Tinie Tempah
ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR
Lady Amanda Harlechpresented by Stella Tennant
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Nicholas Kirkwoodpresented by Rita Ora
EMERGING WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER
Simone Rochapresented by Emmanuelle Seigner
EMERGING MENSWEAR DESIGNER
Agi & Sampresented by Jamie Campbell Bower
EMERGING ACCESSORY DESIGNER
Sophia Websterpresented by Suki Waterhouse
NEW ESTABLISHMENT DESIGNER
J.W. Andersonpresented by Arizona Muse
MODEL OF THE YEAR
Edie Campbellpresented by Tim Walker
SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD
Kate Mosspresented by Marc Jacobs
SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD
Suzy Menkes OBEpresented by Jefferson Hack and Samantha Cameron
RED CARPET AWARD
Erdempresented by Clémence Poésy
BRITISH STYLE AWARD
Harry Stylespresented by Alexa Chung and Jack Guinness
CREATIVE CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR
Céline
167
166
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
171
170
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
173
172
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
175
174
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
WIN
NER
S 20
13
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
WIN
NER
S 20
13
177
176
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 POSITIVE FASHION
Positive Fashion launched in February 2013 and celebrates all things British within the UK fashion industry from home grown design talent to UK manufacturing. Marks & Spencer is the lead partner of Positive Fashion and alongside the BFC and other industry partners promote the best practice within the industry in a bid to make positive change.
Positive Fashion identifies challenges and areas for improvement via its ‘Positive Change’ committee. The BFC and a working committee of industry leaders will create a report to share learnings, challenges, opportunities and best practice to further promote work within the UK.
In September 2013 Marks & Spencer announced that it will support a full BA (hons) Scholarship as part of the BFC scholarship fund taking the first step to support and nurture home grown talent in the UK. Marks & Spencer has also launched a clothing range as part of its extensive programme of activity under the Positive Fashion initiative. This exclusive new clothing collection comprises capsule edits for women and men, featuring a combination of British heritage, British sourcing and British production.
THE FASHION ARTS FOUNDATION
The Fashion Arts Foundation aims to nurture collaborations and foster relationships between fashion, film, music and art talent. Through this strategy the BFC aims to highlight London’s position as a leading creative capital and reaffirm the UK fashion industry’s reputation for innovation.
Registered charity number: 1147729
THE GLOBAL FUND
In September 2013, the Fashion Arts Foundation funded an event to support the life-saving work of The Global Fund through a creative partnership with the British Fashion Council, Green Carpet Challenge, American Vogue and Red.
The event, hosted The Earl & Countess of Mornington, Anna Wintour OBE, Livia Firth & Natalie Massenet MBE at Apsley House, One London, was held during London Fashion Week to raise awareness and to show the British fashion industry’s support of the work of The Global Fund, which works to defeat AIDS, Tuberculosis & Malaria worldwide. The Global Fund also funded ‘Handprint’, a short film by Mary Nighy.
Attendees including Alexandra Shulman OBE, Bella Freud, Benedict Cumberbatch, Christopher Bailey MBE, Christopher Kane, Colin Firth, Daphne Guinness, David Beckham OBE, Dinos Chapman, Erdem Moralioglu, Georgia May Jagger, Jefferson Hack, Jodie Kidd, Jonathan Newhouse, Laura Bailey, Laura Carmichael, Mark Dybul (The Global Fund), Natalia Vodianova, Roland Mouret, Stella McCartney OBE and Victoria Beckham.
BFC
& T
HE G
LOB
AL
FUN
D L
FW E
VEN
T SE
PTE
MB
ER 1
3
179
178
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
BFC
& T
HE G
LOB
AL
FUN
D L
FW E
VEN
T SE
PTE
MB
ER 2
013
BFC
& T
HE G
LOB
AL
FUN
D L
FW E
VEN
T SE
PTE
MB
ER 2
013
181
PIL
LAR
S
180
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council is constantly looking for ways to improve,
develop and add value.
DIVERSITY
The BFC is committed to diversity, believing that the fashion industry is one of the most socially inclusive sectors in this country.
SUPPORTING MODELS
The BFC brings together a working party comprising the AMA, model agency representatives, Equity and the Mayor of London’s office to develop an ongoing Model Programme. This panel looks at opportunities to help set industry standards. The BFC ensures that designers showing at LFW and LC:M supply food and soft drinks for models and workers backstage as part of their contract to show on schedule. All models walking at LFW must be at least 16 years of age. The BFC undertakes spot checks to ensure that these contractual obligations are adhered to.
The BFC provides The Model Zone during LFW and LC:M to act as an information point for models and a dedicated private space to relax with healthy food.
MANUFACTURING
The BFC, Creative Skillset, Marks & Spencer, and UKFT have scoped a study into high end luxury manufacturing which will be delivered Autumn 2014.
BFC FASHION INSIDERS
Created in 2010, BFC Fashion Insiders is a network for Executive Assistants and PAs within the fashion, retail and media industries, and those with links to the BFC through events such as LFW.
It aims to build a strong network of professional and personal contacts through events and to help facilitate development of existing relationships. Hosted by BFC Executive Assistant, Marcos Eleftheriou, events and meeting opportunities are planned throughout the year. In 2013–14, networking events were hosted for BFC Fashion Insiders by 45 Park Lane, Soho Hotel, The Savoy and Cafe Royal.
SAVE THE CHILDREN
In 2013 the BFC supported Save the Children on its Christmas Jumper Day activity by creating designer jumpers for a charity auction. The BFC reached out to some of the world’s leading British designers including Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Anya Hindmarch, David Koma, Paul Smith, Giles Deacon, House of Holland, Jonathan Saunders, Matthew Williamson, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou and Sibling to customise a jumper hand-knitted by Wool and the Gang. The jumpers were displayed at The Village, Westfield London in an installation designed by visual artist and curator Stuart Semple and design agency My Beautiful City from November until the end of the year. All money raised from Christmas Jumper Day activities were donated to vulnerable children in some of the world’s poorest countries.
RSPB
In February 2014 the BFC joined forces with the RSPB to celebrate National Nestbox Week which fell over LFW. In a bid to support British nature the BFC asked UK designers to customise a wooden nestbox created by the RSPB to be auctioned on eBay. Designers included Giles, Jasper Conran, John Rocha, Julien Macdonald, Katharine Hamnett, Orla Kiely, Patrick Grant, Piers Atkinson, Vivienne Westwood, Wayne Hemingway and Zandra Rhodes. All eleven bespoke nestboxes were curated by set-designer Robert Storey and exhibited in The Shop at LFW. All funds raised were donated to the RSPB’s conservation work to be spent on projects like restoring wild places, research into species declines and community engagement.
183
182
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 The BFC represents UK fashion and is recognised as the leading voice of the industry.
Within her capacity as Chief Executive, Caroline Rush, is a member of various groups created by independent bodies and national government. These include the Creative Industries Council, CIC Access to Finance Group Working Group, GREAT Private Sector Council, London Cultural Strategy Group, Mayor of London Menswear Committee and Creative Industries Sector Advisory Group.
These groups support and promote the creative industries on a global scale.
CREATIVE INDUSTRIES COUNCIL
The Creative Industries Council (CIC) was formed in 2011 as part of the Government’s Plan for Growth. It is a joint forum between the creative industries and the Government, co-chaired by the Secretary of State for Culture, Media and Sport, Maria Miller, the Secretary of State for Business, Innovation and Skills, Vince Cable, and an industry Chair, Nicola Mendelsohn (VP, EMEA, Facebook). Its mission is to help drive growth in the UK’s creative industries and ensure that the UK remains a global centre of excellence for these industries. It identifies and focuses on areas where there are barriers to growth facing the sector such as access to finance, skills, export markets and inward investment, data collection, intellectual property and infrastructure.
CREATIVE INDUSTRIES SECTOR ADVISORY GROUP
The Creative Industries Sector Advisory Group is formed of senior representatives of trade bodies and organisations across the creative industries who have an interest in developing international business for their membership will help UKTI deliver a coordinated programme of activities to enhance the international reputation of the UK’s creative industries and to maximise the business benefits of this to the UK. Its aim is to provide UKTI with strategic direction, promote the sector internationally and engage the sector in the UK in an international programme of activity. The group will also lead the international work-stream of the Creative Industries Council and take forward this work.
The Group is co-chaired by Ed Vaizey Parliamentary under Secretary of State for Culture Communications and Creative Industries and Tim Davie Chief Executive, BBC Worldwide and Director Global.
The BFC also supports the official Creative Industries website: www.thecreative-industries.co.uk
GREAT PRIVATE SECTOR COUNCIL
GREAT is the government’s campaign, which aims to boost growth via increased tourism, inward investment, trade support, students participation and influence. Despite good progress to date, government relationships with private sector partners through the GREAT campaign have tended to be tactical and transactional, rather than strategic and longer-term. With the campaign being extended, the government can now provide private sector partners with the assurance that GREAT will be available to businesses longer term, allowing better planning, focus and results. Going forward the opportunity is therefore for government to establish a way to engage with private sector strategy partners more.
LONDON CULTURAL STRATEGY GROUP
The London Cultural Strategy Group (LCSG) is a high-level advocacy group from the cultural sector who are appointed by the Mayor of London as part of the GLA Act 1999. The LCSG’s primary role is to develop the Mayor’s Culture Strategy — maintaining and promoting London as a world-class city of culture. Members represent regional cultural agencies and key institutions across London, acting as the voice of the cultural sector, to monitor and present to the Mayor the ongoing challenges and needs of the sector.
The Group operates as a large body of up to 25 members but in order to pursue specific issues, additional expertise is provided by individuals outside of the Group who are invited to participate in smaller working groups for a time-limited period. These working-groups enable members to incorporate a wider range of views and to respond more flexibly to new issues.
MAYOR OF LONDON MENSWEAR CULTURAL GROUP
Chaired by Justine Simons, Head of Culture for the Mayor of London, the Menswear Strategy Group was set up in partnership with the BFC to build a cultural programme around London Collections: Men and throughout the year. The group includes representatives from BFI, British GQ, Debenhams, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Liberty, London & Partners, Marks & Spencer, Talk PR, Topman and Visit Britain. The Mayor of London Boris Johnson launched a new campaign ‘London, Home of Menswear’ to coincide with London Collections: Men. The campaign ran across the London Underground network from 3rd – 16th January aiming to raise awareness of how the menswear industry makes a vital contribution to London’s economy.
185
PIL
LAR
S
184
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
REP
UTA
TIO
N P
ILLA
R E
VEN
TS
REP
UTA
TIO
N P
ILLA
R E
VEN
TS
187
PIL
LAR
S
186
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
JON
ATH
AN
SA
UN
DER
S SS
14
RIC
HA
RD
JA
MES
SS14
189
188
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
EDUCATION
191
190
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council understands that fashion is always changing and
developing. Educating and helping others is a progressive way forward. Education and industry insight is an intelligent and smart
way to support the fashion community.
We will reach our goal through three elements:
Attracting talent to the industry through a careers campaign aimed at teenagers/school leavers.
Developing talent through a scholarship programme for students requiring financial support to study.
Retaining talent through a business school programme to engage graduates in the industry and develop relevant courses for the fashion and luxury sector
to support developing British businesses.
193
192
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 BFC COLLEGES COUNCIL 2013–14
The Colleges Council was founded by the BFC in 1993 to create an interface between education and industry. It currently provides opportunities for students including events, bursaries and competitions.
STEERING COMMITTEE
Anne Tyrrell MBE (Chair)Anne Tyrrell Design
Andrew GrovesUniversity of Westminster
Douglas Maclennan University of Northumbria
Elinor RenfrewKingston University
Heather HolfordRoyal College of Art
Louise PicklesBath Spa University
Wendy Dagworthy OBERoyal College of Art
MEMBER COLLEGES
Arts University BournemouthBath Spa UniversityBirmingham City UniversityBuckinghamshire New UniversityCentral St MartinsDe Montfort UniversityEdinburgh College of ArtGlasgow School of ArtKingston UniversityLiverpool St John MooreLondon College of FashionManchester School of Art (formerly MMU)Middlesex UniversityNorthbrooke College SussexNottingham Trent UniversityNorwich University of the ArtsRavensbourneRoyal College of Art (MA)University of West LondonThe University of NorthamptonUniversity Centre DoncasterUniversity for the Creative Arts EpsomUniversity for the Creative Arts RochesterUniversity of BrightonUniversity of East LondonUniversity of HuddersfieldUniversity of LeedsUniversity of NorthumbriaUniversity of SalfordUniversity of South WalesUniversity of the West of EnglandUniversity of WestminsterWinchester School of Art
ANNUAL PROGRAMME 2013–14
CREATIVE PATTERN CUTTING SEMINAR, APRIL 2013
The BFC provided six inspirational speakers to demonstrate many easily achievable ways in which the much revered skill of pattern cutting can be approached across a range of garment types. The seminar was designed to find a method that every attendee would find useful as a core part of their design process.
Speakers included:
Anette Fischer The use of drape and the Couture dress, inspired by Dior.
Arena Page A creative pattern cutting graduate from Huddersfield University, whose career path is creative pattern cutting for top international design, demonstrated her approach and techniques.
Janice Mee The construction of a fitted bra and developments from it.
Julian Roberts and Shingo Sato A short film demonstrating subtraction cutting vs transformational reconstruction techniques.
Juliana Sissons Geometric cutting with a 3D approach using sculptural techniques.
Tom Mahon English Cut Bespoke, Savile Row. His unique art of tailoring pattern cutting — the jacket, the trouser.
The objective was to highlight the importance of technical skills involved in creative pattern cutting at graduate level and demonstrate ways of developing new and innovative ideas for design and cut to improve design development. It also outlined the opportunities and excitement for creative career paths in pattern cutting.
HEADS OF COURSE SEMINAR, APRIL 2013
The Colleges Council Heads of Course Seminar aims to give attendees a rare insight into the personal and business challenges the speakers have faced and continue to face during their career within the fashion industry.
The 2013 seminar took place at Harrods on Tuesday 23rd April.
Guest speakers included:
Christopher SuarezNicholas Kirkwood
Jonathan Saunders
Justin CookeInnovate7
Leanne PrichardCoutts
Mandi LennardPR Consultant
Mat Bickley and Sam BrodieJoyn London
195
194
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 GRADUATE PREVIEW DAY, MAY 2013
The Colleges Council Graduate Preview Day is organised by the BFC to foster relationships between graduates and industry. The annual event brings together industry insiders from media, recruitment, retail, design, manufacturing, sales, marketing and PR to preview the work of graduating students who will be entering the job market later in the year. In 2013 the Graduate Preview Day was held on the 10th May at the Hospital Club.
The 30 exhibiting colleges submitted portfolios which were judged by a panel of industry experts, headed by Anne Tyrrell MBE, Chair of the Colleges Council.
The panel included:
Anne Tyrrell MBE
Betty Jackson CBE
Lauretta Roberts (WGSN)
Sarah Penny (Fashion Monitor)
GRADUATE PREVIEW DAY AWARDS
The Fashion Monitor Colleges Portfolio Award in association with the BFC was awarded to the University of Salford.
The WGSN Digital Presentation Award in association with the BFC was awarded to London College of Fashion.
The BFC Fashion Illustration Award in association with Fashion Monitor was awarded to the Royal College of Art.
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION SEMINAR DAY, NOVEMBER 2013
The BFC hosted the first Garment Construction Seminar Day on 15th November 2013 at Somerset House.
The day involved a series of demonstrations where industry professionals demonstrated their unique skills and showcased a variety of different garment construction techniques. Key specialist areas included: eveningwear and couture methods, embroidery, leather, denim & shirting-making, menswear tailoring & womenswear tailoring.
Speakers included:
Sean Moore Anette Fischer Denim and Shirt-Making
Karen Nicol Debbie Stack (Assistant Technician) Embroidery
Basil Kardasis Katarzyna Borowicz (Leather Tailor/Technician) Leather
Janice Mee Krystyna Dean (Specialist Machinist/Technician) Lingerie and Corset Making
David Sassoon Lorcan Mullany Desiree Koster (Specialist Machinist) Evening and Couture Methods
Daniel Blake Assistant Shelia McAllen (Specialist Machinist/Technician) Womenswear
Charlie Allen Mr Moto (Tailoring Technician)
Darren Beaman (Specialist Finisher) Menswear Tailoring
MA SCHOLARSHIP, JULY 2013
The BFC MA scholarship is funded by the Princess of Wales Charitable Trust, the BFC’s educational charity. Students being supported are James Buck (Textiles for fashion) Central Saint Martins, Nneka Okorie (Menswear) Royal College of Art, Matty Bovan (Knitwear) Central Saint Martins and Tomiwa Adeosun (Menswear) Royal College of Art.
The recipients were selected by an independent advisory panel. The scholarships help the chosen students with their course fees and expenses.
COMPETITIONS
The Colleges Council develops competitions with brands to provide paid internships and work experience for students.
TOPSHOP/TOPMAN GRADUATE DESIGN PROGRAMME COMPETITION, MAY 2013
The Graduate Design Programme offered two students a prestigious 12 month paid internship at Topshop and Topman respectively. This was the first year Topshop and Topman partnered with the BFC Colleges Council on a Graduate initiative.
Students were invited to submit a minimum of one mood board that demonstrated strong commercial awareness and understanding of the Topshop or Topman customer. From this mood board, applicants designed a 15 piece capsule collection that fully encapsulated their theme, showing key silhouettes, fabrics and colour choices.
A selection committee comprised of Topshop and Topman representatives invited applicants to a judging meeting to talk through their design project. The calibre of work was extremely high and a lengthy decision process was involved before the final decision on the winner was reached. The winners of the inaugural awards were Sally Hewett from Northumbria University for Topshop and Rebecca Howarth from Manchester School of Art for Topman.
WAREHOUSE COMPETITION, MAY 2013
For the fifth year running BFC Colleges Council and Warehouse teamed up to search for the next fashion design talent. The BFC Colleges Council member colleges selected graduating fashion design students whose final collections showed exceptional design ability, innovation and relevance to the current and future of Warehouse.
The panel of judges included Warehouse’s Design Director Lisa Byrne and Head of Buying, Emily Griffiths, Anne Tyrrell MBE, Chair of the British Fashion Council Colleges Council, Clara Mercer, Head of Marketing, British Fashion Council, Anne-Marie Curtis, Fashion Director, Elle magazine and previous competition winner Daisy Craver, now a designer for Burberry.
Philli Wood, a graduate of the University of Westminster, won the competition and joined Warehouse for a six month placement. Philli was able to follow the full journey of her collection from the initial design process, through production, to campaign creation and the PR and marketing launch. The result was a debut collection and unique campaign.
HARRODS STAR OF TOMORROW, FASHION WRITER AND FASHION STYLIST COMPETITION, JANUARY 2014
The Harrods competition aims to scout and nurture emerging British talent. The judging panel was made up from industry experts including Deborah Bee, Editor-in-Chief of Harrods Magazine, Anne Tyrrell MBE, Chair of the BFC Colleges Council, Caroline Rush, CEO, British Fashion Council, and Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian. After careful consideration the judges chose Lewis Firth from the University of Leeds as the ‘Star of Tomorrow’ writing winner and Trina Outram from Kingston University as the ‘Star of Tomorrow’ styling winner. Lewis and Trina were awarded with a three month internship to get a taste of working for the world’s most famous department store and its leading publication — Harrods Magazine.
M&S BEST OF BRITISH COMPETITION, FEBRUARY 2014
In a bid to support the design stars of the future, the womenswear and menswear heads of design at M&S selected two students to create iconic pieces for the M&S Best of British collections. After intense competition, M&S heads of design chose Lauren Field, from Ravensbourne College in Greenwich, and Chanel Folkes, from Nottingham Trent University, to create two garments — one in womenswear and one in menswear — for the M&S Autumn/Winter Best of British range. This involved the winners working at the M&S Studio in Fashion Street, Shoreditch, where the garment samples will be created. A limited run of Lauren and Chanel’s designs were sold online and in Marble Arch. Lauren and Chanel also undertook a three-month internship at M&S, giving them invaluable experience of work in the fashion business.
INTERNSHIPS AND APPRENTICESHIPS
The BFC has continued to meet with HMRC as it has carried out a series of educational visits to designers concerning the use of interns. The BFC has worked with Creative Skillset to update internship guidelines and in partnership with them is developing a fashion designer apprenticeship for school leavers and higher level traineeships for graduates.
HACKNEY SCHOOL EVENTS, MARCH 2013
In association with local MP, Diane Abbott, and hosted by Clapton Girls Academy, 10 Hackney Schools were invited by the BFC to find out about the range of careers in fashion. Industry representatives, ranging from Vogue’s Style Editor, Emma Elwick-Bates to Fenwick of Bond Street’s Managing Director, David Walker-Smith revealed how they started their career within the fashion industry.
197
PIL
LAR
S
196
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
GR
AD
UAT
E P
REV
IEW
DAY
, G
AR
MEN
T C
ON
STR
UC
TIO
N S
EM
INA
R,
HA
CK
NEY
SCH
OO
LS E
VEN
T
GR
AD
UAT
E P
REV
IEW
DAY
, G
AR
MEN
T C
ON
STR
UC
TIO
N S
EM
INA
R,
HA
CK
NEY
SCH
OO
LS E
VEN
T
BU
RB
ER
RY
PR
OR
SUM
SS1
4
201
200
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
INNOVATION & DIGITAL
203
202
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council has built a reputation as the leader in Innovation
& Digital and understands the importance of engaging the global market. Through the power of social media and online,
the British Fashion Council communicates with a global audience for all its events and continues to develop its strategy
to engage the consumer.
The aims of the Pillar are:
To help British businesses to lead in this area, providing them with the expertise and advice to target the global market.
To support more businesses to get online, to launch new technology and to use it to improve efficiency
and to increase their online presence.
Encourage online growth through e-commerce.
To support designers in directly marketing and engaging their global consumer.
205
204
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 Innovation & Digital has, since 2009, been a fundamental part of the BFC’s strategy. London was the first fashion week to live stream catwalk shows and have a dedicated digital schedule.
The BFC has built a reputation as the leader in this field, which has been supported by brands including Burberry and Topshop Unique, that have seen great return from investing in their digital strategy.
British Fashion Council Online Footprint:
britishfashioncouncil.com facebook.com/britishfashioncouncil twitter.com/bfc pinterest.com/britishfashion instagram.com/britishfashioncouncil BritishFashionTV: youtube.com/BritishFashionTV
londonfashionweek.com facebook.com/londonfashionweek twitter.com/londonfashionwk LFWTV:youtube.com/LFWTV
britishfashionawards.com britaincreates.com fashion2012.co.uk londonshowrooms.co.uk designerfactfile.com londoncollections.co.uk
The BFC continues to grow its social media platforms to further engage audiences in new and innovative ways. It works with partners such as Google, Twitter, YouTube and Rightster to distribute content to an international audience.
MA
RY
KAT
RA
NTZ
OU
SS1
4
207
206
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“NO DESIGNERS HAVE EMBRACED THE DIGITAL AGE MORE FERVENTLY THAN THE BRITISH. THE SUN IS SHINING ON LONDON FASHION WEEK
— METAPHORICALLY SPEAKING”
SUZY MENKES OBE, INTERNATIONAL NEW YORK TIMES
HO
USE
OF
HO
LLA
ND
AW
14
211
210
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
INVESTMENT
213
212
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
The British Fashion Council aims to raise awareness in the investment
community around opportunities in the designer sector, and in the designer sector of the investment landscape.
The aims of the Pillar are:
To generate investment for British businesses and educate/prepare businesses for investment.
To contribute to developing a fashion eco-system to support growth and entrepreneurship long term.
To kick-start this activity we will launch the first BFC Fashion Forum in June 2014 which will be an annual event to review
and brainstorm opportunities to finance growth for British designers and fashion businesses.
215
214
PIL
LAR
S
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4 The BFC Investment Pillar announced its core focus at LFW February 2014. Jonathan Goodwin, Lepe Partners and President of the Investment Pillar set out the goal to generate investment for British businesses and education/prepare businesses for investment.
As part of the launch, a short guide to investment for designers was launched online www.designerfactfile.com/Investment.It was noted that there was already growing interest in British designer businesses with Nicholas Kirkwood, J.W. Anderson, Roksanda Ilincic, Charlotte Olympia and Kent & Curwen to name just a few. The deal was sealed in 2013–14.
Jonathan has appointed an investment committee whose aim is to contribute to developing a fashion eco-system to support growth and entrepreneurship in the long-term.
To kick-start all of this activity, Jonathan announced that he and Natalie Massenet MBE will co-host a Fashion Forum in June to review and brainstorm opportunities to finance growth for British designers and British fashion businesses.
CH
RIS
TOP
HER
KA
NE S
S14BFC INVESTMENT COMMITTEE
Bill Muirhead M&C Saatchi
Charles Armstrong The Trampery
Clare Spencer Churchill Claret Showroom
Danny Rimer Index Ventures
Don McCarthy House of Fraser
Hugh Devlin Withers
Lord Marland
Mark Esri Venrex
Oliver Haarman Searchlight Capital
Sarah McVittie Dressipi
Sian Westerman Rothschild
Simon Fuller XIX Entertainment
Sir Stuart Rose
Stephen Peel TPG
Veronica Chou Iconix Brands China
Waheed Ali Silvergate Media
Yana Peel Intelligence Squared
BFC
IN
VEST
MEN
T C
OM
MIT
TEE A
ND
TH
E H
ON
ED
VA
IZEY
MP
AG
I &
SA
M S
S14
221
220
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
THE
BFC
TEA
M
THE BFC TEAM JULY 2014
EXECUTIVE BOARD
Natalie Massenet MBE Chairman
Caroline Rush Chief Executive
Simon Ward Chief Operating Officer
Anya Hindmarch MBE Non-Executive Director
Christopher Inman OBE Hon Treasurer
OFFICE OF CEO & COO
Marcos Eleftheriou Executive Assistant
Jessica Ktorou Junior Assistant
SHOWCASING & SALES TEAM
Narmin Mohammadi Head of Showcasing
Laura Hinson Showcasing Manager
Charlotte Whitehead Sales Manager
Emma Campbell Show Executive
Tessa Creagh-Barry Sales & Showcasing Executive
Shanne O’Shea Sales Assistant
EVENTS
Josef Jammerbund Head of Events
Alex Woodfield Events Manager
Jennie Becker Events Manager
Claire Burman Events Assistant
Lucy Mountain Events Assistant
Rebecca Hoffman Events Assistant
MARKETING
Clara Mercer Head of Marketing
Ana MacCarrick Digital Marketing Manager
Marits Roberts Marketing Manager
Nathan Cole Marketing Executive
Lucy Handley Digital Marketing Assistant
PR (MEDIA & BUYERS)
Gemma Ebelis Head of PR
Sophie McElligott PR Manager
Charlotte Gray PR Executive
Emily Hart Buyer Relations Assistant
SPONSORSHIP
Jenico Preston Head of Sponsorship
Kate Eastop Sponsorship Manager
Allie Welch Sponsorship Coordinator
Millie Graham Sponsorship Coordinator
Sophie Bannister Sponsorship Executive
PUBLIC SECTOR & PROJECTS
Judith Rosser-Davis Projects Advisor
Emma Early Project Manager
Victoria Peters Projects Coordinator
India Usher Education Coordinator
FINANCE
Laura Strain Head of Finance
Lisa Wren Finance Manager
Shandrae Sampson Finance Coordinator
Lauren Sterling Finance Assistant
BUSINESS SUPPORT
Katie Rawle Business Support Coordinator
CONSULTANTS
Anna Orsini Strategic Consultant
Barbara Grispini LONDON show ROOMS Curator & Designer Brand Development Consultant
Bera Kalhan HR Consultant
Daniel Marks The Communications Store
Jane Boardman Talk PR
Nathalie Riddle Consumer Consultant
Music Design and Production of the BFC Annual Report
NEW DOUBLE PAGE IMAGE OR QUOTE
BR
ITIS
H F
ASH
ION
AW
AR
DS
2013
TOM
FO
RD
SS1
4
226
BFC
AN
NU
AL
RE
VIEW
201
3–1
4
“LONDON HAS CEMENTED ITS CREDENTIALS AS
THE CREATIVE FASHION CAPITAL OF THE WORLD”
NAOMI MDUDU, METRO
HA
RD
Y A
MIE
S SS
14
“WHENEVER I COME TO LONDON I JUST LIKE TO WALK AROUND
AND SEE WHAT EVERYONE ELSE IS WEARING. THERE IS A GREAT ECLECTIC SENSE OF STYLE THAT
YOU DON’T SEE ELSEWHERE”
SAMUEL L JACKSON
British Fashion Council Somerset House, South Wing Strand, London WC2R 1LA
+44 (0)20 7759 1999 [email protected] britishfashioncouncil.com
