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summer edition 2008

better bases: certified organic & paraben-freenature’s natural healer:aloe verauncovering asia’s best kept anti-ageing secret

summersummer edition 2008

I have the luxury of finding myself the tester and trialer of products that are considered as new additions to the Sydney Essential Oil Co. range. Recently, our focus has strongly been on improving old favourites, expanding our organic lines and finding ingredients that support major market trends such as anti-ageing and spa. And I am excited to report that since our last issue of Oily, we have had some breakthroughs in product development and our radar has tracked down some must-have ingredients for your next product development project.

As you read on, we will take you on a discovery mission of China’s miracle oil, Camellia oil. Plus, we’ll share the many versatile applications for Aloe Vera Gel. And for the keen perfumers amongst you, we’ll introduce you to a host of new essential oil lines that will get your creative blending ideas working overtime.

As always, we invite you to take up position in a comfortable chair and enjoy the read.

Eliza McGivern, Editor

this issuE

summer cover:Aloe Vera (Latin for true aloe)Aloe barbadensis millerThis versatile gel acts as a soothing, cooling and moisturising treatment for the skin. Ideal for after-sun care and sensitive skin types.Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

summer04 News: The latest happenings at SEOC New products, new certification…more.

06 Up close: When is a Cactus really a Lily When it’s Aloe barbadensis miller!

Read about its amazing healing properties.

10 Lifestyle: Folk remedy goes mainstream Protect your skin from sun damage & premature ageing.

12 Harvest: Camellia Oil (Tea Oil) Discover one of Asia’s oldest anti-ageing secrets.

20 Product Specification: Certified Organic Camellia Oil Specification for manufacturers.

21 Formulation: Anti-ageing Face Cream Featuring Camellia Oil.

22 Product Specification: Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel Specification for manufacturers.

23 Formulation: Angry Skin Soothing Mask Featuring Aloe Vera Gel.

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MORE tO LOVE

The latest additions to our Essential Oil

collection deliver exciting new aromatic

pleasures….

1. Lotus Pink – Exotic, floral aroma, slightly

herbaceous

2. Oak Moss – Rich, earthy, woody

3. Tuberose – Complex, exotic, sweet,

floral, spice-like

These are also available as 3% in jojoba,

plus we’ve incorporated them into 3 new

essential oils blends;

1. Positivity blend featuring lotus pink &

grapefruit pink, lime, lavender true,

marjoram sweet, rose absolute premium

2. Earth blend featuring oak moss &

lemon, gingergrass, petitgrain, cypress,

patchouli

3. Optimism blend featuring tuberose &

grapefruit white, bergamot, lavender

true, jasmine absolute

NOP CERtiFiCAtiON

To strengthen your export potential and

certification compliance, a significant

proportion of our Certified Organic

product offerings are now also recognised

and approved to the National Organic

Program (NOP) under the UDSA.

sWEEt FRAGRANCE

The delicious scents of our recent Limited

Edition blends enticed you to ask for more.

So we’ve now added them as permanent

items in our Certified Organic Essential

Oil Blend collection.

1. Balance Blend

2. Create the Harmony Blend

3. Go with the Flow Blend

4. Made in Australia Blend

5. Soften the Heart Blend

6. Time to Chill Blend

GEttiNG CARRiED AWAY

Try these new companions in your

formulations for anti-ageing skincare and

massage products.

1. Camellia Oil – Certified Organic offers

high anti-oxidant activity, protects

from UV damage, softens wrinkles.

2. Meadowfoam Oil offers exceptional

stability extending the shelf life of your

products.

thE END is NiGh

0607 Catalogue is closing!

Friday 14 November 2008 will be the last

date of validity for our 0607 Catalogue.

From Monday 17 November onwards,

our website www.seoc.com.au will be your

point of reference for product information

and pricing. Please keep a watch on the

New Products and Specials sections in our

website for new and discontinued items.

Visit www.seoc.com.au for more

information.

NEWs

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BAsiCALLY BEttER

We know you’ll be impressed by

the new & improved lines added to

our Base Products range…

1. Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel*

& Certified Organic Balm. Both fully

compliant with ACO Standard v.6.

2. Paraben-free Cream, Lotion,

Body Butter, Nourishing Conditioner

& Extra Nourishing Conditioner.

High performance commercial bases

with a robust preserving system,

offering up to 2 years shelf life.

3. Natural Melt & Pour Soaps in clear

& white. Paraben-free & sulphate-free.

100% vegetable soap naturally

saponified.

*Coming soon, watch our website

for availability.

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With thick dagger shaped leaves that are covered in thorns, you would be forgiven for thinking that Aloe Vera was a species of cactus but it is actually a member of the lily family – Liliaceae, and is related to onion, garlic and asparagus.

Aloe barbadensis miller species is recognised as the only species with the true aloe healing properties. This species can be identified by its distinct yellow flower. In bloom you see the family resemblance, as its flowers are tubular much like that of the Easter Lily. It grows from the inside out forming a rosette in its centre where new leaves are small and tender, to its oldest and largest leaves around the edge of the base. A mature plant has a distinctive grey-green colour, although in summer it can be greener and in winter develops a slight bronze tinge.

New plants tend to propagate around the base of a parent plant and can take anywhere from 2-4 years to mature depending on the environment.

The increasing recognition of Aloe’s many beneficial properties, has seen it become a widely cultivated crop in a large number of countries such as Australia, China, India, Spain, Mexico, South and Central America as well as North American states, Texas and Florida. >

uP CLOsE

Opposite: The distinct yellow flowers of the Aloe barbadensis miller set it apartfrom more than 275 known species of Aloe Vera.

When is a Cactus really a Lily?When it’s Aloe barbadensis miller! Read about Aloe Vera’s amazing healing properties.

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uP CLOsE

The history of Aloe Vera dates back thousands of years when it was trusted by Egyptian Queens to keep their youthful complexions. Cleopatra and Nefertiti believed that bathing in Aloe would not only enhance but prolong their beauty.

Alexander the Great also made use of Aloe Vera as a healer for wounded soldiers on the battlefield. It is believed he conquered the island of Socotra specifically for its Aloe crop.

Globally Aloe Vera has been a fundamental plant used medicinally and cosmetically by many different cultures throughout the ages.

Today, Aloe is utilised in a wide variety of applications and sold to us in numerous forms. Topically applied gel can be used on most skin conditions that sting, itch or burn. No doubt you will also have seen it for sale as a refreshing drink, as well as an after sun skincare solution, and possibly as an ingredient in anti-inflammatory sports gel.

The protein found in Aloe contains a high level of essential amino acids, in fact 18 of the 20 present in the human body, thus it is of great benefit to building healthy skin. Early in the modern medicine era it was used to treat patients who had been burned by primitive x-ray machines. Their burns were covered with the gel from this unique plant and healed surprisingly fast, without scarring.

Aloe Vera’s list of constituents is extremely long but some of the key features are vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, folic acid, choline, K minerals, enzymes, proteins 2%, essential and secondary amino acids, fatty acids, triglycerides, mono and polysaccharides. On their own, these components might not be overly effective but when combined together they become synergistically beneficial to the body.

Whether young or old your skin will benefit from the properties of this natural healer. 1

sydney Essential Oil Co.’s Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel...coming soon!

Opposite clockwise from top: Fields of certified organic aloe vera. Flower-like stalks grow to 60-90cm. Tubular flowers turn from green to yellow as they mature.

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Burns, irritations, Abrasions

Aloe Vera gel is very popular as a healing

treatment for minor skin irritations,

abrasions, burns, ulcers and other skin

conditions. When applied directly to a

wound the anthraquinones found in the

gel of the plant have an anaesthetic effect

whilst its distinct medicinal properties fight

off bacteria, help dilate capillaries and

therefore increase blood flow, along with

relieving pain and itching.

sports strains & sprains

Reduce the swelling of skin and muscles by

applying Aloe Vera gel directly to the

effected area. The natural anti-

inflammatory properties will assist in a

quick recovery. Soak a bandage in gel if

the area needs large coverage.

sun Care solutions

After sun exposure, you can relieve mild,

moderate and severe sunburn by direction

application of Aloe Vera. The gel will help

heal the damaged skin and encourage new

growth, along with the previously

mentioned anaesthetic properties

alleviating some degree of pain.

Aged or Damaged skin Care

Aloe Vera gel is absorbed almost four times

faster than water, and is able to reach

some of the deepest tissue in the body. This

enables it to deliver all its goodness directly

into the skin where it is needed most. Used

regularly it will improve the appearance of

aged or damaged skin by promoting new

skin-cell growth and over time will help

maintain a healthy complexion.

Protection for all skin types

Once the Aloe Vera gel has dried on the

skin a protective cover is created that helps

keep moisture locked in. Its cooling effect

helps reduce acne inflammation and assists

with healing. Its calming and nurturing

properties will help remove redness and

soothe dry or angry skin. It is also a natural

pH balancer and will give the skin a softer,

smoother appearance. It also works as a

great toner and cleanser, helping to

unclog pores and remove dead skin. 1

LiFEstYLE

It’s astonishing to know that a somewhat unassuming household plant is actually the basis of a multi-million dollar industry of Aloe Vera health supplements and skin care products.

Folk remedy goes mainstream

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scientific research in recent years has nearly unraveled the complex healing properties of the soothing gel found inside the Aloe Vera plant’s succulent leaves. The active constituent called acemannan, is being attributed with much of the glory, as this versatile product continues to feature in more of our everyday products

sLuG

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uncovering asia’s best kept anti-ageing secret...

the Camellia oleifera is in leaf all year round. It bears a single fragrant white flower in late winter that is characterised by long twisted petals. Opposite: Scenic view of Qian Dao Lake hugging the foothills of the mountainous region in Zhejiang province.

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hARVEst

Camellia Oiluncovering asia’s best kept anti-ageing secret...

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hARVEst

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In the remote mountain regions of southern China lies a centuries-old secret to beauty and skin rejuvenation. Derived from one of the world’s most propagated plants species, the Camellia oleifera is an evergreen tree that annually bears an abundance of fruit seeds in the autumn months of October to November. Followed by an impressive spread of fragrant white and red flowers in late winter. But it is the seeds that are prized. Once gathered, they are cold pressed and turned into what some describe as a ‘miracle oil’.

This miracle oil, Camellia oil, also known as Tea oil, has been cultivated extensively for many centuries in China and other regions of Asia. Many believed that the Camellia originated in Japan. However, it actually appeared about a thousand years earlier in China.

In China, the Camellia plant is known as a symbol of wealth and was regarded as the Emperor oil for many generations. In Japan, Camellia oil has been attributed to the youthfulness and beauty of the Geishas, only a few drops a day helped them maintain ageless skin and lustrous hair.

The Camellia species is a highly versatile plant family. Whilst Camellia oleifera seeds are harvested for oil, its close relative Camellia sinensis is harvested for tea leaves; oolong black tea, jasmine, green tea and white tea.

Camellia oleifera is grown in many of the southern China regions, such as Hunan, Zhejiang, Guangdong, Guangxi and Fujian Provinces. Trees grow wild and on organic farms and from the time of planting the trees take approximately 5 to 6 years to mature to seed bearing stage. They grow to 4 to 6 metres high and 3 to 4 metres wide.

Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner obtains its oil from its natural environment via villages in the Zhejiang province, situated along the shore of the East Sea. This remote region, 11,000 feet above sea level, is supported by sustainable farming methods and is classified as Certified Organic under IFOAM standards. To further >

As a cosmetic oil, Camellia Oil is able to penetrate to deeper layers of the skin and hair follicles delivering nutrients that help the skin maintain a youthful appearance and the hair a healthy shine and gloss. 1.Try neat as a makeup removing oil.

2. Apply a few drops of Camellia oil after cleansing as a face and eye zone moisturiser.

3. Apply after showering for soft smooth skin.

4. Massage into the scalp and through to the ends of your hair to add lustre and shine and reduce fly away and frizz. Leave on overnight, or apply after washing.

5. Ideal as baby massage oil.

6. Keep in a lip roller ball for moist healthy lips and to keep lipstick feathering at bay.

7. Massage in morning and night to reduce the signs of stretch marks.

benefits7

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Certified Organic Camellia Oil is now available from Sydney Essential Oil Co.To integrate Camellia Oil into your product portfolio, contact us today formore information. www.seoc.com.au.

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help the local industry there is a community project in place to support the building of local houses.

Harvesting is carried out by the local villagers. But they are not totally reliant on Camellia oil farming; they also have their own pressing machines to produce cooking oil, meal and other bi-products on a small scale for supply to the local village.

Approximately 45% of the Camellia seed is extracted as oil (a higher yield than olive oil). For example 750 kilos of seed will yield 300 litres of oil. Once the oil is separated from the seed by a centrifuge process, it is then cold pressed at a temperature no higher than 45°C and finally filtered to result in extra virgin oil. All processes are fully compliant to certified organic standards.

Camellia oil is China’s oldest known oil for cooking and skin treatments and is documented dating back 3000 years in Chinese Herbal Medicine. In fact, the Barefoot Doctors who travelled on foot from village to village utilised Camellia oil on the skin and in herbal pastes for the treatment of skin dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema.

Today, Camellia oil is making a strong emergence in western industries ranging from cosmetics to dietary. As cooking oil, it offers amazing health benefits. It has the highest known monounsaturated content than any other oil (80.9%), which is critical for lowering bad cholesterol. It also offers a low level of unhealthy saturated fats and a healthy level of polyunsaturated fats. It is packed with nutrients such as vitamins E, A, B & C, minerals, omega-6 essential fatty acids and omega-9 fatty acids. Plus it boasts the highest smoking point (252°C) of all the oils. Meaning that it is very safe to cook with, as when excessive heat >

Opposite clockwise from top: Branches laden with camellia seeds. Once the seeds are collected they are ground to a paste before pressing the oil. An impressive spread of fragrant red flowers is in bloom in late winter. Seeds are picked by hand from October to November each year.

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hARVEst

Opposite: Camellia oil has proven its place in products designed to improve the skin’s texture and appearance. This includes a variety of skin care emulsions such as anti-ageing face creams, day or night creams, hair treatments, sun protection products and colour cosmetics.

is applied to other oils, this can adjust the molecular structure of your oil leading to the release of free radicals into your diet.

As cosmetic oil its viscosity is very thin enabling it to be absorbed faster than most oils, but more importantly it is able to penetrate to deeper layers of the skin and hair follicles delivering nutrients that help the skin maintain a youthful appearance and the hair a healthy shine and gloss. Its fatty acid composition is extremely high in Oleic acid (75-87%). Oleic acid is the main fatty acid found in human sebum, and contributes to the rejuvenation of collagen and elastin.

For skin, the application of Camellia oil can result in nourishing the cell membranes, replenishing skin lipids and accelerating skin rejuvenation. It exhibits remarkable anti-oxidant activity, protects from UV damage and acts as an agent to prevent free radical related deterioration. With ongoing use, individuals notice an added softness and reduction in dryness and tight feeling skin. Other benefits include a gradual reduction in fine wrinkles, potential disappearance of freckles, stretch marks and age-spots. It may also improve the skin condition for acne-prone or inflamed skin.

For hair, individuals notice their hair becomes softer healthier and often fuller within weeks. The oil’s ability to penetrate deeply to the hair follicle can also support increased hair growth activity.

Camellia oil is an important oil for the organic and naturals industries and one that provides rewarding results in anti-ageing and hair care products. We encourage you to embrace the benefits of this exciting oil. 1

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PRODuCt sPECiFiCAtiON

Product Camellia Oil

Botanical Name: Camellia oleifera

Type: Certified Organic

Plant part used: Seed

Extraction Method: Cold pressed, Refined

Country of Origin: China

Appearance: Clear, mobile liquid

Colour: Light yellow to pale green

Odour and Taste: Characteristic

Iodine Value (Calc): 75 - 95

Free Fatty Acid Content: < / = 1.0 % measures as Oleic

Saponification Value: 185 – 205

Peroxide Value: </=5.0

Fatty Acid Composition

C16:0 Palmitic Acid 6 – 14%

C16:1 Palmitoleic Acid trace – 0.5%

C18:0 Stearic acid 1.0 – 2.0%

C18:1 Oleic acid 70 – 85%

C18:3 Linoleic acid 5 – 14%

C18:3 Linolenic acid < 1%

Other informationPackaging: As requiredCertification Number: OP-2908-933-480 – OFDC StandardProducer No: P-480-01

For more information, contact sydney Essential Oil Co. 02 9565 2828.

FORMuLAtiON

Phase Raw Material % w/w

A Purified or Distilled Water 77.0

B Emulsifying Wax 5.0

Camellia Oil – certified organic 5.0

Apricot Kernel Oil – certified organic 2.5

Sesame Oil – certified organic 1.5

Rose Hip Oil – certified organic 0.5

C Vitamin E natural 4.0

Rosewood essential oil 0.3

Frankincense essential oil – certified organic 0.1

Rose essential oil – certified organic 0.05

Myrrh essential oil 0.05

D Glycerine – certified organic 1.5

Green Tea extract 1.0

Unigerm g-2 1.5

E Citric Acid q.s. 100% w/w

Anti-ageing Face CreamPerformance: Softens and smoothes wrinkles, protects from age spots due to UV damage Appearance: Creamy, off-white coloured cream stability: Expected shelf life 18-24 months subject to manufacturing practiceRecommended uses: Maturing, sun damaged or dehydrated skin

Method of Manufacture1. Heat phase A to 70°C maximum.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70°C maximum.3. Add Phase A to Phase B and emulsify for 5 minutes..4. When emulsion has cooled to 35°C, add Phase C and emulsify for 1-3 minutes.5. Add all ingredients from Phase D while stirring constantly. Emulsify for 1-3 minutes.6. Adjust pH using Phase E to 5.5 – 5.87. When cool, pour off

For ingredients, contact sydney Essential Oil Co. 02 9565 2828.

Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in

presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product

manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate

testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

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PRODuCt sPECiFiCAtiON

Product Aloe Vera Gel

Botanical Name: Aloe barbadensis miller

Type Certified Organic

Manufactured: Australia

Plant Part: Leaves

Odour: Light Herbal

Appearance: Viscous liquid gel

Colour: Clear – to pale yellow

pH: 5.5 – 7.5

Specific Gravity @ 25ºC 1.030 – 1.036

Heavy Metals: < 10 ppm

Acid insol. Ash: < 0.6%

Plate Count incl Yeast & Mould: < 100 CFU/ml

Total Aerobic Count: < 100 CFU/ml

Other informationOrganic Certification: 10186P - ACOIngredient list: Available on request.Packaging: 5kg, 20kg, 20kg + as required

For more information, contact sydney Essential Oil Co. 02 9565 2828.

FORMuLAtiON

Phase Raw Material % w/w

A Argile Blanche Surfine – white clay 34.8

Australian Mineral-lite Ultrafine 5.0

B Aloe Vera gel 59.0

C Cucumber extract 1.0

D Petitgrain essential oil 0.1

Elemi essential oil 0.05

Myrrh essential oil 0.05

100% w/w

Angry Skin Soothing Mask Performance: calming, soft and gently soothing Appearance: thick and creamy, off-white coloured clay stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing processRecommended uses: dry or damaged skin softener, gentle detoxifier, calming & nourishing clay mask

Method of Manufacture1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well 2. Add Phase B and mix until a creamy consistency is reached3. Add Phase C and mix well4. Add ingredients from Phase D and mix well

For ingredients, contact sydney Essential Oil Co. 02 9565 2828.

Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing

claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

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Sydney Essential Oil Co Pty Ltd ABN 95 096 439 299

Unit 4, 2-10 Fountain Street Alexandria NSW 2015 Australia

PO Box 171 Alexandria NSW 1435

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order on-line www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of

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Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests.

Oily is also available to view on-line. If you’d prefer to opt-out of receiving

a print copy, please let us know.

© Copyright 2008 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy,

recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.

Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests.