Bent Plywood Bicycle

8/9/2019 Bent Plywood Bicycle

1/21

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FU3/MBJA/GEG58KG4/FU3MBJAGEG58KG4.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7N/JNUN/GEG587F3/F7NJNUNGEG587F3.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAJ/VN42/GEI9CRX3/FAJVN42GEI9CRX3.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG5/9B1W/GEG58KGL/FG59B1WGEG58KGL.LARGE.jpg)

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2/21

After seeing this bike (http://bicycledesign.net/2009/06/a-student-design-for-a-

bent-ply-bike/.) on a bicycle design blog I was inspired to build my own. It was

made by someone named John Hobson. The concept is the same, but mine is

fairly different.

Also I had some left over epoxy and fiberglass from a kayak I built

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Stitch-and-Glue-Kayak/) and was just itching to

find a project I could use it on (or maybe I was just itchy from all the fiberglass).

Anyway, since I wasn't thrilled with my current bike that was a cheapo 15 year

old big box store bike, I thought it would be great to replace the old frame with a

wood composite frame and have something unique.

The part of the design I liked was that the top and bottom parts of the frame are

like leaf springs separated by the seat tube. I thought that having a suspension

system integrated into the frame was a really cool idea. Ideally vibrations and

bumps would be absorbed into the frame and returned back to the wheels,

without making the frame too bouncy. The frame I built consists of plywood,

fiberglass, epoxy, and even paper, so there is no welding required.

Before I get started here's some bike terminology I had to learn:

Head Tube - short tube for the handle bars, and front fork assembly.

Top Tube - horizontal section that connects the seat tube to the head tube.

Down Tube - diagonal section that connect the head tube to the bottom bracket.

Bottom Bracket - This is where the pedals and crank attach.Seat Tube - longer tube that the seat post slides into.

Chain Stays - Two sections that connect the bottom bracket to the rear wheel.

Seat Stays - Two sections that lead from the seat to the rear wheel.

Dropouts - brackets to connect the rear wheel.

Caution: Riding a bike is dangerous, riding a home built bike is even more so. If

you decide to build a bike, take it slow, wear a helmet and other protective

equipment, reinspect your work, and be prepared for it to break at any moment.

CNC tube bendingPrecision tube bending from

samples or drawings

Bike wheels

taylor-wheels.com

Europes bike wheel manufacturerNo 1 - Quality made in Germany

Crankskins

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Step 1: Get The Materials

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3/21

I looked at the 1/8 inch plywood at Lowes and Home Depot, but I wasn't very

happy with the quality. I then went to a local woodworking store and found some

good looking 1/8" baltic birch plywood in 5'x5' sheets that had a nice light color.

It was about $20 per sheet so if it turns into a disaster I wont be too upset. I also

bought a pack of birch veneer to wrap around the seat and head tube.

I bought a bottom bracket, bottom bracket shell, and crank from Amazon for

about $50. The rest of the parts I plan to take from a junk bike I had lying

around.

The fiberglass, epoxy, and spar varnish were left over from a kayak build. I

bought these online from a boat building supplier. It is 6 oz glass cloth and theepoxy is clear, non-blushing that takes about 24 hours or more to fully cure.

Tools needed: Saw, sandpaper, rasp, a couple of pliers, drill, power sander,

power jig saw, some solid wire, natural fiber rope or twine, a vise, and several

disposable brushes, cups, and latex gloves. When needed be sure to wear eye

protection and a mask to keep gunk out of your lungs. I also had to buy some

specialty bike tools, a chain tool and crank arm remover.

For removing parts off the old bike I used a hack saw, locking pliers, bench

grinder, and a Dremel.

Step 2: Cut Some Plywood

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAK/3SBX/GB5HEA8N/FAK3SBXGB5HEA8N.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FAK/3SBX/GB5HEA8N/FAK3SBXGB5HEA8N.LARGE.jpg


4/21

For cutting I used a coping saw, although other saws would work. Just be

careful not to tear up the wood too much, especially when cutting across the

grain.

In order to get an even bend, the pieces should roughly have an even width. The

rear wheel section has a fork with two 1 1/2" wide sections that are 3 3/4" apart.

The rear forks are 13" long, and they narrow to 3" apart where they join

together. It thens tapers down to a single 3" strip. The total length is 43" The

dimension don't have to be perfect since I will shape the frame once it is all

glued together.

I only cut 4 pieces to start with. Two of them are a 1/2" longer to account for theextra length needed when bending. Small holes are drilled into the ends of the

boards so they can be wired together. The two outer boards have the holes an

1/8" further from the edge so they can line up with the inner holes, and still come

together at the end.

Wire up the boards and see how the ends look. For wire I used 18 gauge solid

copper wire. At this point I had to cut a little bit off the ends of the outer boards

to make sure they came together like I wanted. A temporary seat tube is made

out of a piece of PVC with fabric taped to the ends to prevent it from slipping off

the plywood. The fabric adds some friction to keep the tube in place, although it

still slips off more often than I'd like.

Several times I held up the frame to my old $99 cheapo bike to see if the

dimensions looked right. Once the frame is the right size, I cut the glass fabric to

the shape of the boards.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FY1/KSY6/GDRPYNUJ/FY1KSY6GDRPYNUJ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3Y/55BE/GE7LEYLS/F3Y55BEGE7LEYLS.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGV/1EW5/GE7LEYIX/FGV1EW5GE7LEYIX.LARGE.jpg)
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5/21

Step 3: Initial Glue Up

I chose to layer fiberglass between each piece of plywood mainly because I

have a bunch of it. Hopefully this will add durability but I don't know if doing this

will make the frame stiffer or more flexible. If I were to do this again I would skip

the extra fiberglass and just add a few more layers of wood to increase thevisual impact of a wood bike.

Be sure you know how to use the epoxy before you start and always wear

gloves. The four boards are first painted with epoxy on one side then the glass is

wetted out onto two of the boards. They are then sandwiched together and the

ends are loosely wired together.

It takes a couple tries to get it bent into shape and wired together, but once I got

the temporary seat tube in place with the plywood bent around it, I could tighten

up the wires. I tried to make a herring bone pattern where the plywood is wired

together, but I was only moderately successful. I used some homemade clamps

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Clamps-From-Plastic-Pipe/) to

keep the boards tight together. After it cured I removed the wires and sanded it

out.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F59/TPSE/GE7LEYMA/F59TPSEGE7LEYMA.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDS/AFY1/GE7LEYMF/FDSAFY1GE7LEYMF.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FPD/ISBU/GE7LEYM7/FPDISBUGE7LEYM7.LARGE.jpg)

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6/21

Step 4: Laminate, Laminate, Laminate

This is quite a long process. I chose to do one layer at a time, and I'm getting 2

layers done per week. The steps are. Draw and cut out 2 boards. Cut the

fiberglass to match the boards. Clamp the boards on dry to make sure they are

the right size. Prepare the epoxy and paint it on one side of the frame and on

one side of the new boards. Wet out the fiberglass onto the new boards. Clamp

it all together and let it cure for 24+ hours. After it's hard (the epoxy should not

dent from pushing your fingernail into it) cut off the excess fiberglass, sand out

any bumps, and do it again.

Out of the 5'x5' sheet I squeezed out 14 pieces. Thus I have seven layers each

for the top tube and the down tube sections. I discovered (a bit too late) that if I

make the boards a little too long, I can cut off the excess while it's dry clamped

to the frame. On this frame, I placed four layers on top and one layer of plywood

on the inside of the frame to cover up the wire holes, and hide any scuffing

caused the clamping and reclamping.

Because of the bending, the rear chain stays and seat stays have a tendency to

move closer together. To stop this I had to add a scrap piece of plywood

between the stays to maintain the distance. Once all the layers were added and

cured I cut out the scrap plywood. To protect the wood I added a final layer of

fiberglass on the top and bottom of the frame.

Step 5: Make Tubes

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F8A/WJGM/GE7LFDIN/F8AWJGMGE7LFDIN.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7S/S3Q5/GE7LFDLV/F7SS3Q5GE7LFDLV.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FG8/PT9D/GE7LFDLR/FG8PT9DGE7LFDLR.LARGE.jpg)
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7/21

The seat tube and head tube are made out of fiberglass, brown packing paper,

and birch veneer all wrapped around a pipe used for a mandrel. For the seat

tube I used part of an old shower curtain rod with the decorative plastic

removed. It just happened to be the same diameter of my seat post. For the

head tube I used 1 in. pvc pipe that had an outside diameter of 1.3 in.

I planned to attach a front derailleur to the seat tube so I had to pay attention to

both the inner and outer diameter of the tube. The seat post was 1 in. in

diameter and the derailleur needs a 31.8 mm (1 1/4 in.) seat tube so I had to

make the tube 1/4 in. thick (1/8 in. on each side). I also integrated the old bike's

seat post clamp into the tube so I wouldn't have to figure out how to put it on

later.

There are some helpful websites for amateur rocketry that provide instructions

on how to make fiberglass tubes, but my experience was difficult. It took 3 tries

to make the seat tube. The first attempt made a tube with an internal layer ofpaper that was way too loose. The 2nd attempt was a very tight tube of fiber

glass and paper, but it wouldn't slide off the pipe. Finally I made a tube of only

fiberglass and with effort was able to pull the pipe out. The head tube is much

smaller and slide off the pipe fairly easily.

Here's the steps I finally used:

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTH/WPM0/GE7LFGJ1/FTHWPM0GE7LFGJ1.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FEX/OJWW/GE7LFGIX/FEXOJWWGE7LFGIX.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FED/1G0A/GE7LFGIU/FED1G0AGE7LFGIU.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9O/3WR5/GEI9CS1B/F9O3WR5GEI9CS1B.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3I/CENE/GE7LFGJ8/F3ICENEGE7LFGJ8.LARGE.jpg)
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8/21

1. Sand the pipe so it's smooth

2. Lubricate the outside of the pipe, with grease or wax, but leave the ends

clean so the wax paper can be taped on.

3. Wrap the pipe with wax paper, and tape the ends so it stays in place.

4. wrap the tube two times with fiberglass and epoxy. Using latex gloves I was

able to wrap the epoxy soaked fiberglass flat onto the pipe so that there no

bubbles or gaps. Don't make it too tight though or it will never slide off.

5. Let the the tube cure, but not completely.

6. Remove the pipe: Remove the tape then break the pipe free by locking the

fiberglassed section into a vise and twist the pipe with pliers. Work the pipe out

by pulling and twisting with the pliers on one end and push the pipe with a stick

or smaller pipe on the other end. Take care to cause as little damage as

possible but there will be some.

7. Remove the wax paper, and slide the fiberglass tube back on the pipe.

Sand it and coat with more epoxy and wrap with several layers of paper to add

some thickness and add some epoxy as you go. The paper doesn't need to be

soaked with epoxy.

8. Let it cure. I used some cord to keep the paper tightly wrapped while it cured.

9. Sand the pipe again, and measure the circumference, to get an idea of how

much veneer is needed. Cut the veneer so it overlaps the pipe by about a 1/4 -

1/2 of an inch and sand the inside edge of the veneer to a sharp blade (the

outside edge gets sanded after the epoxy cures). The blade edge will go down

first then the opposite edge will lap over it.

10. Add another layer of fiberglass and epoxy followed by the veneer layer. Theveneer bends easier once it's been wetted out with epoxy.

11. Let cure. This time I used wire ties to the keep the veneer wrapped around

the

tube.

12. Sand the veneer to get rid of the over lapped edge, and to remove any

marks or indentations caused by the wire ties.

13. Finally apply the last layer of fiberglass.

14. Let cure

15. Sand it smooth.

The Head tube ended up being 1/8 inch thick with an inner diameter of 1 5/16 in.

and outer diameter of 1 9/16 in.

I originally tried to use a 28.6 mm front deraileur, but it wouldn't fit, so I added

another layer of fiberglass at the bottom of the seat tube and used a 31.8 mm

derailleur. The seat tube finally had an inner diameter of 1 1/16 in. and an outer

diameter of 1 5/16 in.

Step 6: Dropouts


9/21

For shaping the frame I began at the back and worked my way to the front. I

plan to attach the dropouts by gluing them into slots using thickened epoxy. If it

doesn't hold I may have to revert to bolts instead.

To create the slots, I dug a channel into the back the same size as the dropouts.

I first cut out the area using a Dremel rotary tool, then moved on to using a hand

drill and wood bit and moved it up and down the channel to route out the wood. I

designed it so that the dropouts have to be rotated into the slot, opposite the

direction the frame pushes on the wheel.

I chose the go ahead and glue in the dropouts before shaping the stays. To

thicken the epoxy I combined sawdust with wheat flour I got out of the kitchen.

With a little experimenting I was able to come close to the color of the wood.

Before gluing in the dropouts I made sure they were clean and grinded in some

pits with a Dremel so the epoxy can get a good grip on the metal.

A string taped down the middle of the bike helped me make sure each side was

even. Then I used a handheld jigsaw to cutout off the edges along the seat and

chain stays and used a flexible wire as a straight edge to help pencil in where

the cuts should be.

Step 7: Bottom Bracket and Seat Tube

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJJ/XLVJ/GE7LFGHS/FJJXLVJGE7LFGHS.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FY1/7M6C/GE7LFGHL/FY17M6CGE7LFGHL.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDX/9CYR/GE7LFGHX/FDX9CYRGE7LFGHX.LARGE.jpg)

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10/21

The bottom bracket section needs to be shaped such that the frame has

clearance between the rear tire and the sprockets on the pedal crank. To do this

hold the bottom bracket with the crank loosely installed to the frame and

measure where the cuts should go. Make a small cut to the frame then measure

again. After doing this several times it should fit. Then cut the other side so it is

symmetrical. The down tube ended up being 1 7/8 in wide.

To determine where the bottom bracket and seat tube should go I held the bike

up to my old bike to get an idea. I drilled a hole for the seat tube using a 1 1/4in

hole saw. Once the seat tube hole is made, the edges can be cut off leaving 3/4

- 1 in. of the frame on either side of the seat tube. Then taper the top tube

section down to 2 in wide.

Once the seat tube is glued in place I glued the bottom bracket shell on the

opposite side the down tube. I went ahead and wrapped some extra birch

veneer around the bottom bracket but it wasn't really necessary.

Since the bottom bracket is basically hanging from the bottom of the frame, it

needs a lot of reinforcement to keep it on. In my first attempt I tried to fasten it

with a paper and fiberglass composite, but it didn't look that great. Also I

neglected to reinforce the connection between the seat tube and the bottom of

the frame. It cracked on a test ride, and gave me a really wobbly crank.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVI/EQR1/GE7LFGL5/FVIEQR1GE7LFGL5.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F6S/A54G/GE7LFGL9/F6SA54GGE7LFGL9.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDP/NM5Z/GE7LFGK2/FDPNM5ZGE7LFGK2.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS1/KY57/GE7LFGM1/FS1KY57GE7LFGM1.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FO8/QCSB/GE7LFGM7/FO8QCSBGE7LFGM7.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZK/ZV0B/GEG5871F/FZKZV0BGEG5871F.LARGE.jpg)

Show All 7 Items
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11/21

In the next attempt I used strips of fiberglass cloth wrapped from the seat tube

over the frame to the bottom bracket and back, and then I wrapped the whole

area with many lashings of a natural fiber rope I had in the shed. Everything was

wetted with epoxy before applying. I used wire ties to add some compression to

the joints, but in retrospect I probably should have used some plastic or

electrical tape to get rid of the lines left by the wire ties.

It might be possible to place the bottom bracket on top of the down tube, but you

would lose ground clearance, and you may need to use a more sophisticated

bending technique than that of a stick and some wire.

Step 8: Head Tube

The hard part about attaching the head tube is getting it in the right position. I

used my old bike as a template to get the forward/backward angle right, then I

was able to use my hole saw and drill it out. When checking to see if the hole is

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNQ/I8MF/GE7LFGMQ/FNQI8MFGE7LFGMQ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FSJ/RL8Y/GE7LFGMX/FSJRL8YGE7LFGMX.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLU/0BUX/GE7LFGMT/FLU0BUXGE7LFGMT.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FN0/PNBF/GEG5875E/FN0PNBFGEG5875E.LARGE.jpg)
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12/21

lined up right, I found it helpful to insert the PVC pipe into the head tube and see

if it looks true.

Unfortunately the left/right angle wasn't right, so I had to do some sanding and

used a couple nails to temporaryily hold the head tube in the right spot while the

epoxy cured. Once it cured I could remove the nails and add more flour and

sawdust thickened epoxy around the tube.

Step 9: Cable Stops and Head Tube Cups

Now that the headset, seat tube, and rear dropouts were in place I could spend

some time finalizing the frame shape and sand everything smooth. It should now

look like a bicycle frame.

I created the cable stops out of left over pieces of the frame. I cut a rectangularpiece and drilled a hole halfway thru about the size of the cable shielding, then a

small hole all the way thru for the actual cable. Carefully I sawed a slot to the

hole for adding and removing the cable, and rounded off the corners.

I pressed the headset cups from the junk bike into place by hand. After a little

sanding they fit inside of the head tube snugly. To make the old parts look better

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS7/4N2S/GEG5875K/FS74N2SGEG5875K.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJ4/1BBE/GEG586J8/FJ41BBEGEG586J8.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0Y/90KN/GEG586QA/F0Y90KNGEG586QA.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLV/K5V4/GEG586O7/FLVK5V4GEG586O7.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F98/269K/GEG586I8/F98269KGEG586I8.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FMV/XB18/GEG586I5/FMVXB18GEG586I5.LARGE.jpg)
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13/21

I taped off parts of the bike and spray painted silver on the headset cups, seat

post clamp, and rear dropouts.

Step 10: Finish And Assemble

Once everything was glued up and looking good, it was time for the varnish. I

used some spar varnish and gave the bike 3 coats.

Assemble the bike. I ended up putting the rear brake below the frame because I

didn't want any cables running along the top of the bike. It's far from ideal

though. If I can get my hands on a free or almost free rear disc brake set, I'll

install it, but for now this will do. For the front derailleur I drilled a small hole

behind the bottom bracket to run the cable thru. It attaches to the bottom pull

derailleur.

That's it. It's actually a lot stiffer than I anticipated, but it's a good ride. I don't ride

a whole lot, but it will work for what I do, either riding thru the desert or on the

canals or down to the local bar (and walk it back of course). I'm pretty gentle

with it, but I've gone up and down curbs slowly. When you build your own bike

be prepared for it to break at any moment until it's been thoroughly tested and

visually inspect it from time to time. I've only taken it out a couple times and I'll

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGS/SWNN/GEG586KZ/FGSSWNNGEG586KZ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCW/7SIK/GEG58KKT/FCW7SIKGEG58KKT.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2I/9SOY/GEI9CRZ6/F2I9SOYGEI9CRZ6.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/20SF/GEI9CRZD/FJO20SFGEI9CRZD.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FC6/0ZAJ/GEG5878C/FC60ZAJGEG5878C.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FM4/ZIQT/GEG586ND/FM4ZIQTGEG586ND.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F68/NGG6/GEG58KKY/F68NGG6GEG58KKY.LARGE.jpg)

Bent Plywood Bicycle by LongToe (/member/LongToe/) (/contest/woodworking/) (/contest/makeitstick/)

Collection I Made it!

Download (/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/?download=pdf) 10 Steps

Favorite Share

(/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/)
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14/21

We have a be nicecomment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

(/member/HanzieO/)

3 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

3 years ago Reply

(/member/HanzieO/)

3 years ago Reply

get more aggressive on it in time. I'll update this instructable if anything breaks. I

got a couple looks from people who notice bikes, but a majority of people it

seems see it as just another bike on the road.

There are a couple fills in the bike where I had to add thickened epoxy, but it's

not too noticeable. You can probably spot them in some of the photos. The

frame by itself weighs about 6.8 pounds and all together it is 32 lbs. Anyway, I

wish you the best of luck if you decide to build something like this!

Update:I broke the seat tube just above the frame when I went to a shorter seat

post. It didn't go far enough into the seat tube, so it was weaker. I redid the top

of the seat tube so it is stronger now and use a longer seat post. Also the bottom

bracket shell broke free and started sliding left and right. I was able to reset it

with gorilla glue and it seems fine now. Finally I replaced the rear side pull brake

with a center pull calliper brake. The side pull was uncomfortably close to the

crank arms.

1-40 of162

Next (http://www.instructables.com/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)

HanzieO (/member/HanzieO/)

Hi, nice work with your bike. I am halfway with making a similar bike and I willpost and instructable as soon as im done. This will be my second wood bike

the first one is like a junk yard recumberant. See the foto below. I really like

your bike and admire the workmanship. I will add a bit more steel to my bike

coz I like the industrial look and I am a metal worker at heart. I used a jig for

the laminating and both halves come out of the clamps tonight.

Does it still go?

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGE/JHVL/GMX1Q31L/FGEJHVLGMX1Q31L.LARGE.jpg)

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) HanzieO

Cool man, I can't wait to see your instructable. Your recumbent looks

great. Yep it still works but I broke off the seat clamp when I used a

seat post that was too short. That's a place where steal would work

better. Good luck with your build!

HanzieO (/member/HanzieO/) LongToe

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/

mr-motorvator (/member/mr-motorvator/)
http://www.instructables.com/member/HanzieO/http://www.instructables.com/id/Bent-Plywood-Bicycle/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSShttp://cdn.instructables.com/FGE/JHVL/GMX1Q31L/FGEJHVLGMX1Q31L.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/HanzieO/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/HanzieO/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/mr-motorvator/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/HanzieO/


15/21

(/member/mr-motorvator/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/randomray/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/rowerwet/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/scraptopower/)

4 years ago Reply

The loops make the whole bike strong and selective use of metalwork keeps

the slender look. The bike design you mentioned is spoiled by the box for the

seatpost.

Have you seen the Pashley Tuberider? It is a great looker. I fitted mine out

with a motor system driving the chainwheel. Pashleys all have hub brakes, so

motorising them is a challenge. Photos as www.mr-motorvator.co.uk

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7N/JX98/GEQQOA8C/F7NJX98GEQQOA8C.LARGE.jpg)

randomray (/member/randomray/)

Excellent build and very helpful instructable ! A few suggestions and thoughts .

A simple jig to clamp the wood to will make this project much easier . You

really don't need the fiberglass between the layers of plywood ." it'll be lighter

and it's plenty strong without the glass " An outside rated wood glue would be

plenty strong , then coat the outside with epoxy and glass " it'll be a lighter bike". Leave the seat tube on the bottom bracket , run the tube through the holes

in your wood frame epoxy it in then leaving a short section at the top and

bottom cut out the center section and connect those pieces by wrapping with

several layers of veneer . Or just cover it with veneer . I would take the donor

headset and just cover it with veneer after installing it . If you wanted you could

take 1/4" strips of wood with the grain running the length of the bike instead of

the plywood and it would be far stronger . Hickory , ash , sitka spruce and

white oak would work great . Mix in other woods for cool patterns and colors .

Once again great job , now I'm going go build my own thanks to you . Do a

search for wood bikes on Flickr there are some cool ones out there .

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) randomray

Thanks, those are some good ideas. If you make your bike, you should

make an instructable or post it online somewhere.

rowerwet (/member/rowerwet/)

great i'ble! I really want to make my own now!

from a stress stand point would it be better to have the pedals mounted inside

the frame rather than outside? that way the force you put onto the pedals

(downward) would be pushing against the frame rather than pulling.

I also have built ply and epoxy boats taking the construction to bikes makes

sense.

If you used west system epoxy let http://www.epoxyworks.com/ know and theycould make an article out of it, in fact they have an article about epoxy and

wood bikes in it this issue.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) rowerwet

Thanks! You're right, I'm not crazy about hanging the crank below the

frame, but I thought putting it inside would make it too high. This design

could probably be reworked for a better or cleaner looking crank mount

either inside or laminated into the frame itself.

scraptopower (/member/scraptopower/)

This is awesome! 5* and my vote!

Is this springy to ride ?

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) scraptopower
http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/randomray/http://cdn.instructables.com/F7N/JX98/GEQQOA8C/F7NJX98GEQQOA8C.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/rowerwet/http://www.instructables.com/member/rowerwet/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/mr-motorvator/http://www.instructables.com/member/scraptopower/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/randomray/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/scraptopower/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/


16/21

(/member/LongToe/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/dbell/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/legamin/)

10 months ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

10 months ago Reply

(/member/niallthemagicone/)

1 year ago Reply

(/member/srichie/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/EvoQ/)

2 years ago Reply

Thanks. No, it's not very springy, but I'm kinda a light weight. It might

be a different story though for a big dude.

dbell (/member/dbell/) LongToe

I'm not a bike builder, so may be talking out my butt here, but from a

structural point of view, you have assembled a very rigid frame, and it

wouldn't have much spring to it.

How would it work if the seat tube passed through a sleeve set into the

top tube/seat stay arc, rigidly attached only at the bottom bracket?

Dave

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) dbell

That sounds pretty cool. It would really act like a spring then. Someday

I'd like to make a bouncy bike and really exaggerate the vertical spring.

This bike is a little more practical.

legamin (/member/legamin/)

as a wood purist, I think I 'wood' have steered well clear of using any

fiberglass. As well, I noted that you were using materials of varying strengths

that is a practice rarely recommended for longevity. Wood with two part

laminating glue and thinner veneer (should you try this again) will give you

amazing visuals and a longer lasting end product. I'm only saying this from a

static materials strengths professional. I do tend to over engineer my designs.

I'm impressed with your product! I think the concept is inspired! I'd have you on

my ideas team any day!

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) legamin

Thanks! There's another instructable that did something similar to what

you are describing. http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/

niallthemagicone (/member/niallthemagicone/)

amazing yes

srichie (/member/srichie/)

I'm a bit confused about the frame. I see you've listed the materials that its

made of, but i'm still not sure what the frame is... So the plywood is just a

veneer, or outer layer? And structurally its mostly fiberglass? Has there been

any stress tests done on the frame?

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) srichie

The frame is 7 layers of 1/8" plywood with fiberglass sandwiched

between each layer. I have no idea what loads it can support. Ride at

your own risk.

EvoQ (/member/EvoQ/)

I think you did a wonderful job on a first prototype. And just think you have

inspired allot of people to do the same. that is what life is all about my friend.

Thnxx for sharing.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) EvoQ

Thanks!
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17/21

(/member/LongToe/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/CryoFireProductions/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/altomic/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/thirst4know/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/LongToe/)

2 years ago Reply

(/member/yoyology/)

2 years ago Reply

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2 years ago Reply

(/member/savant77/)

3 years ago Reply

CryoFireProductions (/member/CryoFireProductions/)

I have one question. How light is the bike? I'd think it'd be lighter then your

average frame.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) CryoFireProductions

The frame by itself weighs about 6.8 pounds and all

together it is 32 lbs.

altomic (/member/altomic/)

say, could you make the Bottom Bracket and Seat Tube in one piece.

That is the seat tube is welded to the bottom bracket - to make a "T".

you then have 2 holes in the bike frame for the seat tube to go through (from

the bottom to the top) yeah?

the seat tube and bottom bracket are metal and covered in the veneer onceinserted into the bike frame.

it would give the bottom bracket strength and you wouldn't have to have the

stuff around it to hold it in place.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) altomic

Good idea. HanzieO did something similar to what you described on

his version. http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/)

thirst4know (/member/thirst4know/)

Nice design. A few improvements could produce a bike that will last a lifetime.

Hardly any rust either! Great lines on your bike.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) thirst4know

Thanks!

yoyology (/member/yoyology/)

That is a beautiful object. The fact that it's a functioning bicycle as well makesit even more astounding. Well done, sir!

I see that you posted this a couple of years ago. Have you made another since

then? I'd love to see an update.

LongToe (/member/LongToe/)(author) yoyology

Thank you. I would like to build a beach cruiser version, but haven't

gotten around to it yet. One of these days.

savant77 (/member/savant77/)

Awesome build man, great details, well placed photos and not perfect. So

many people put up perfectly executed ibles that you know it was really thier

2nd or 3rd attempt. I personally don't mind the twine BB, whatever works, only

time will tell if it holds up and since it's wood, just rebuild it stronger. I'm also

impressed with the weight, I just built a cargo hauler based on a steel big store

box bike that came out to 12 lbs! Do not put wood forks on if you like your front
http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/yoyology/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/thirst4know/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/altomic/http://www.instructables.com/member/yoyology/http://www.instructables.com/member/CryoFireProductions/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/member/LongToe/http://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-Bike-2/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/CryoFireProductions/http://www.instructables.com/member/altomic/http://www.instructables.com/member/savant77/http://www.instructables.com/member/thirst4know/http://www.instructables.com/member/savant77/


18/21

(/member/ac-dc/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/voyageur10/)

3 years ago Reply

(/member/shoehornteeth/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/ac-dc/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/boaslad/)

4 years ago Reply

teeth!

ac-dc (/member/ac-dc/)

... another project inspiring people to make a bike that can get them hurt or

killed if they use it. Nifty idea, but, even professionally made bikes fail and with

luck people should not get hurt just to have some novelty item.

If it were the other way around, if for some odd reason bikes were made out of

plywood and someone suggested a STRONGER, BETTER frame from metal

tubing I would applaud but this kind of suggestion that puts people at risk is

very irresponsible. I propose some industry standards and laws that holdbicycle frames to standards for durability a bit like car crash tests and road-

worthy regulations.

You only have one body and one life kids, please think before endangering it.

voyageur10 (/member/voyageur10/) ac-dc

You have got to be kidding me... This is a great project, I'm sorry you

don't see the value of it.

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/) ac-dc

Bicycles can cause you to get hurt or killed. Even professionally made

bikes fail. I propose we outlaw all bicycles. Then no one will ever be

injured or die.

But seriously, I'd trust a plywood frame made to my own high standards

to a cheap metal frame made by the lowest bidder.

ac-dc (/member/ac-dc/) shoehornteeth

I propose we require any bicycle ridden on the road to be tested for

road-worthiness. If you want to ride your one-off homemade bike which

is supposedly, and I mean supposedly because if you don't test yourclaim you are just making up nonsense, made to relevant higher

standards, then by all means ride it only on your own private property

so in the event of failure you are not risking others in public.

The same applies for bicycle helmets, if you want to make one out of

string and glue I would say it is a bad idea no matter how great you

think it is, that testing to ensure it is safe is important, that no

suggestion to make one should occur without the testing being

stressed as the most important thing.

Realize the difference, that what you do in private to risk your own

health and well-being is different than trying to encourage someone

else to do it.

boaslad (/member/boaslad/) ac-dc

Did you even READ this article before you started farting on it? Did you

read his advice on construction technique? Did you even realize that

the method this bike is made with is almost identical to the modern

method used in the construction of wooden re-curve bows (archery)

which by the way FAR out perform (both in accuracy and durability)

metal versions of the same design ?

I realize that an amateur wood worker would probably botch the job

resulting in an unsafe and unreliable product... Having said that allow

me to also mention that MOST amateur wood workers would realizethat a project of this magnitude would be beyond their ability. But even

if they DO attempt it and FAIL as haniously as you seem to think they

will, they will have only hurt themselves.

You also overlook one very crucial detail. Failure is the only true road

to success. The Wright brothers made over 20 designs before they

made one that flew. NASA blew up countless rockets before landing a
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19/21

(/member/paganwonder/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/Rahdzhillaxxx/)

4 years ago Reply

(/member/janettetsmith/)

4 years ago Reply


4 years ago Reply

man on the moon. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse has taught a

whole new generation of engineers how NOT to build a bridge. Failure

is life's greatest teacher. Do people get hurt in the process,? Hopefully

not. But yes sometimes they do. In the end they KNEW it was a risk.

But it was a risk THEY CHOSE to take.

As far as road worthiness... If this was motorcycle or a car or some

other vehicle that achieved terminal velocities I would be more inclined

to agree with you. But as some one who has crashed literally thousand

of times on bicycles (usually doing something that my mother would

rather not know about) I don't. I have had many of your beloved steel

and chrome alloy frames snap under me. and guess what... I survived.

And with all my limbs still attached, too.

paganwonder (/member/paganwonder/) ac-dc

Bike helmets = false sense of security= unrealized risk taking. Check

out the research- helmets don't actually prevent the most devastating

aspect of head injury. More to the point- where will the Nanny State

end? Probably in "1984".

"Life is a terminal, sexually transmitted condition and no one gets out

alive!" And sadly- so few actually Live!

Rahdzhillaxxx (/member/Rahdzhillaxxx/) ac-dc

I meet your proposal of road worthiness testing and raise you a walking

requirement that enforces sturdy shoes knee-pads and helmet. Oh and

a mouth guard. Seat belts for recliner chairs and thick gloves for

handling hot coffee.

And for the sake of being nice I'll encourage courage and applaud the

sharing of knowledge and the attempt at sharing wisdom.

Oh and helmets for bicycles would have gotten a kid pounded by all the

other kids back when I was a young little monster with my extra set of

forks pounded on and half the bolts cross threaded while using a four

foot board across a stack of tires for a ramp. We used to throw bikes

together from piles of trashed bikes and play chicken till someone

ended up with a broken collar bone and went home to momma then didit again the next day. And the next and the next. I remember two kids

dying while growing up. one was a hemophiliac that got talked into

jumping off a bridge thirty feet into shallow water, bled to death

internally. And the other tried to imitate a circus stunt and ended up

accidentally hanging himself. ages 15 and 12. were both avoidable?

perhaps, but I do believe they were a bit inevitable too. Fate will decide

and Darwin will point and say "I told you so" So live life and enjoy it till it

ends because you never know when it will.

janettetsmith (/member/janettetsmith/) ac-dc

Dang dad, you're just preachin' all over the place. One of the beautiful

things about living in America is that we get to make decisions for

ourselves on many levels. @shoehornteeth can make them for himself,

you can make them for yourself and I can make them for myself. It's

quite a wonderful concept; one, considering your need to determine our

IQ and decide what we should do or not, you might not actually know

about. I don't know about @shoehornteeth, but the last time I checked,

you were not my father. Even though your assessment determined I

was not all that smart, I know you are not my father because my father

doesn't feel the need to constantly tell people how they should behave

or what they should think. FYI ... my IQ is 144.

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/) janettetsmith

That sure was a convoluted reply. I reread it twice, and I still can't tell if

you're agreeing with me. Just to clarify, I was being sarcastic when I

said bicycles should be outlawed. My opinion is that detailed

descriptions/instructions on how this wooden bicycle was built are

appropriate for this website.
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20/21

(/member/janettetsmith/)

4 years ago Reply


4 years ago Reply

(/member/Transquesta/)

4 years ago Reply

We have a be nicecomment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

janettetsmith (/member/janettetsmith/) shoehornteeth

Oh, sorry about that. No, I agree with you. It's bugs me when

someone feels they must preach here because preaching to you or me

or anyone has nothing to do with, for this instructable, building a bike.

@ac-dc can raise kids, within the law, however they want and choose

never to go around a lumber. I knew your comment was sarcastic. :)

I like to read the comments or get ideas. I was an adult the last time I

looked, so I get to make my decisions. I even get to eat my dessert

first if I feel like. Therefore, as an adult, I don't want to weed through

the comments of a self-appointed supervisor trying to make everyone

do what they want, arg.

I'm kind of embarrassed because now I think I have amassed more

comments than @ac-dc. :/

shoehornteeth (/member/shoehornteeth/) ac-dc

No one is encouraging you to make your own bike. In fact, you

probably shouldn't trust yourself to make anything for yourself. Do you

have the proper means to test that sandwich for pathogens? No? Don't

eat it! If you get sick, you could cause others around you to get sick

too. Better leave food prep for the professionals.

Realize the difference? If no one ever made things for themselves or

tried different materials or different designs, no progress would ever bemade. There is an inherent risk in every activity. No one is telling you to

take this risk. And if my frame has a catastrophic failure, then I'm the

only one who pays the price.

Transquesta (/member/Transquesta/) ac-dc

Great. Just what we need. MORE government regulation to stifle

initiative/creativity.

News flash, people: LIFE is risky no matter what you do. You can

choose to live it or to spend your time on this earth in complete misery

worrying constantly about the countless ways you might get hurt.

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