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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Ricardo A Ross, Jeroen Aalderink, Sophie Beck-with, Suzannah Conway, Nora Laufer, Yvan Lou, Christopher Mcdonald, Desi Mier, Nathan Pan, Alexandra Reese, Markus Schill, Nick Sweat-man, Bas Van Opdorp, Dom Van Abbe, Pamela Wade, Sarah and Rob Waters, Emma White

AUTHOR THANKSTom MastersAn enormous debt of thanks to all my hard-working fellow authors on this book, and the teams in London and Melbourne who commis-sioned, edited and oversaw the project. Special thanks in Albania to Ardi Pulaj, Catherine Bohne, Tedi Sina and Bledi Strakosha; in Bel-rus to my friend Zhenya Artemyev; in Kosovo to Hekuran Avdyli and the folks at Libertas in Pristina; and in Moldova to Kostya Derenyov and Marina Waters in Chisinau and Lena Lozin-sky in Tiraspol.

Carolyn BainMuch love and thanks go to Graham Harris and Kate Johns for pre-Estonia fun and games, and to Brandon Presser for Nordic-Baltic inspira-

tion (and for seeing the same Tallinn cafe from many different angles). In Tallinn, warmest thanks to Priit and Beatrice for excellent chats and food, Geli for her usual fine apartment as-sistance, Elina and Triin at Chado for their tips, and especially to Estonia’s finest tea-meister, Steve Kokker.

Mark BakerI met many helpful people all along the way in researching the countries for this guide and their names would be too numerous to mention. I’ve lived in Prague for two decades now and a very special thanks to my good friends here. In Slovenia, the staff of the Slovenia Tourist Board deserve special mention. Finally, a nod to Co-ordinating Author Tom Masters for putting this enormous guide together is definitely in order.

Greg BloomPop was my wingman again, soaking up vodka shots and slogging around St Petersburg on trip one of three. Spacibo dad! A big spacibo to Lucy for joining on trip number three! Old Kyiv friends Jake Rudnitsky and Tim O’Brien helped me out big-time Moscow. Thanks to Mike Sito for letting me help the Pigs. Thanks to Peter and the gang in Piter; Kaz and (remotely) Aaron in Moscow, and the Petersburg ultimate frisbee crew.

Chris DelisoAs always a number of kind and helpful Mac-edonians (and other folks too) provided good

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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tips, advice and assistance in the course of my research. Among them I can mention Pece, Patrice, Stevche, Emilija, Biljana, Dane, Stojko, Ace and Julija – you know who you are! Of course, this book couldn’t have been completed without the work of my patient and devoted Lonely Planet colleagues, includ-ing Commissioning Editor Katie O’Connell, Coordinating Author Tom Masters and the mapmaking and production teams.

Marc Di DucaA huge dyakuju to my Ukrainian parents-in-law for their support in Kyiv and their insights into the latest developments in Ukraine. Also many thanks to Yarema Dukh of Visitlviv.net for his invaluable support in Lviv; Mykola and Olya in Simferopol; Viktor in Odesa; all the dedicated staff at tourist offices in Lviv, Yalta and Bakhchysaray; Ostap in Lviv; Ukrainian Railways for finally realising that fast trains with seats that travel in the hours of daylight might be a good idea; and last but not least to my wife Tanya, for introducing me to Ukraine in the first place.

Peter DragicevichMany thanks to all the wonderful people who helped me in Montenegro, especially Ivica Erdelja, Hayley Wright and Jack Delf, Emma and Ben Heywood, Krstinja Petranović, Dani-ca Ćeranić and Matthew Lane. Also, I owe a debt of gratitude to James and Lorraine Hed-derman, Tim Benzie and Kerri Tyler for their contributions before and after the journey.

Mark ElliottMany thanks to Snezhan, Vlaren, Semir, Ner-men, Žika, Sanila, Narmina and Branislav, the helpful folks at Travellers Home and New

Age Hostel, and Jan Beran and Mišo Marić for such a wonderfully random slivovice (plum brandy) evening in Mostar. As ever my greatest thanks go to my endlessly inspiring family, notably my unbeatable parents who, nearly four decades ago, had the crazy idea of driving me to Bosnia in the first place.

Steve FallonThanks to Bea Szirti and Ildikó Nagy Moran for their helpful suggestions. Péter Lengyel showed me the correct wine roads to follow again and Gerard Gorman where the birds are. For hospitality on the road I am indebted to Regina Bruckner (Budapest), András Cseh (Eger), Zsuzsi Fábián (Kecskemét) and Shan-dor Madachy (Budapest). Nagyon szépen köszönöm mindenkinek! As always, I’d like to dedicate my share of this to partner Michael Rothschild, with love and gratitude.

Anna KaminskiMany people to thank, not least Katie for en-trusting me with this task, Tom and the rest of the Eastern Europe team, and my friends and family who helped me along the way. A particularly big thank you to Gintaras and Viktor in Kaunas, to my adopted Lithuanian parents in Nida (you know who you are), Ni-kas, Simonas, Ben and Aleksandra in Vilnius, Tomas and Jacinta for the Palanga all-nighter, and Rasa Dooling.

Anja Mutić Hvala, mama, for your home cooking and contagious laughter. Obrigada, Hoji, for being there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me endless recommendations – this book wouldn’t be the same without you. Special thanks go to

THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Eastern Europe guidebook is part of Lonely Planet’s Europe series. Other titles in this series include Western Europe, Mediterra-nean Europe, Central Europe, Southeastern Europe, Scan-dinavian Europe and Europe on a Shoestring. Lonely Planet also publishes phrase-books for these regions. This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editors Lucy Monie Hall, Katie O’Connell, Helena Smith

Coordinating Editor Elin BerglundCoordinating Cartog­rapher Valentina KremenchutskayaCoordinating Layout Designer Katherine MarshManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Angela TinsonManaging Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Amanda SierpManaging Layout Designer Jane HartAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Kate Kiely, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mason, Joanne Newell, Lorna Parkes, Monique Perrin, Sam Trafford

Assisting Cartographers Xavier Di Toro, Julie Dodkins, Alex Leung, James LevershaCover Research Kylie McLaughlinInternal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Joe Bindloss, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Samantha Forge, Larissa Frost, Chris Girdler, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Anne-lies Mertens, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Dianne Schall-meiner, Rebecca Skinner, Ker-rianne Southway, Navin Sushil, Gerard Walker

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998Lidija in Zagreb and Mila in Split, as well as the team at HTZ. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still.

Brandon PresserA massive thank you goes first and foremost to Aleksis Karlsons for your hospitality and friendship. Special thanks to Jānis Jenzis, Agnese Kleina, Live Rīga, TAVA and everyone else that had a hand in making this edition a great one. Thanks also to Joanne and my clever co-authors and editors at Lonely Planet, and a big shout out to Carolyn for letting me rediscover the black poodle twenty times over.

Tim RichardsAs always, I’m indebted to the staff of Poland’s tourist offices, and the national train company PKP. Dziękuję to my Polish friends – Ewa, Magda and Andrzej – for their companionship and insights regarding their mother country. I’m also grateful to the mem-bers of the English Language Club in Kraków, who supplied both friendly conversation and advice on new places of interest. Thanks also to the generous inhabitants of Twitter for their random and useful assistance, particu-larly Magda Rakita for music tips.

Tamara ShewardTo research here is to make a zillion friends, so in addition to thanking the population

of Serbia, I’d like to offer clinks of the rakija glass and mnogo hvala na to… the NS Kiosk Crew, Gagi of Niš, Toma of Mokra Gora, Zoran for saving us from snakes and wolves, all the helpful oddballs we met during our medeni mesec/research jaunt, Dragana Eremić, the Ljesević family, the Lučić clan, Pappa and Mumma, and as ever, to Dušan, najbolje, najslađi čovek u svemiru!

Luke WatersonTo Josef for the Spišské Podhradie adven-ture; to the HRL girls; to Michaela in the High Tatras; to the entire Košice 2013 team; to Michal for the ride round the east; to Peter and Brano for the ‘authentic’ ride round Bratislava; to Giovanni and his great wine; to Majo for his hospitality in Slovenský Raj; and to the old women who opened up the wooden churches: d’akujem for the wonderful insight into your little-in-size, big-at-heart country.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Parliament building, Budapest, Hungary, George Tsafos/Getty Images.

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

999

Aaccommodation 958-60, see also

individual locationsactivities 960-1, see also individual

locations, birdwatching, canoeing, cycling, diving, kayaking, rafting, skiing, yachting

bridge diving 26bungee jumping 26, 473, 960canyoning 960ice skating 348jet-skiing 193rock climbing 268, 893sailing 961skydiving 960

air travel 971-3Albania 40, 46-78, 48

accommodation 46, 74-5activities 75arts 73-4budgeting 46business hours 75climate 46drinking 74economy 70embassies & consulates 75environment 74exchange rates 47food 46, 47, 74, 75highlights 48history 70-3holidays 76internet access 75internet resources 47itineraries 47money 47, 75people 73planning 46-7politics 70postal services 75-6telephone services 76tourist information 76

travel seasons 46travel to/from 47, 76-7travel within 77-8visas 76weather 46

Albena 192amber 506Andrić, Ivo 137Apollonia 61Arbanasi 180architecture 27

art nouveau 18, 461Bulgaria 202Serbia 824Slovenia 907

area codes 968art

Albania 73-4Bulgaria 202Croatia 265Czech Republic 330-1Hungary 429-30Moldova 564-5Poland 669Romania 731Russia 791Slovenia 908Ukraine 950

art galleries, see museums & galleries

art nouveau 18, 461arts, see individual countries,

architecture, art, cinema, dance, literature, music, theatre

ATMs 965Auschwitz-Birkenau 627

BBaderishka Polyana 167Bakhchysaray 944-6Balatonfüred 407-8Balchik 191-2ballet 791Banat 705-9Banja Luka 139-41Banská Bystrica 846Banská Štiavnica 846-7Bansko 167-8banyas, bathhouses & saunas 17, 961

Estonia 348Hungary 384, 385, 13Russia 17, 751, 770, 789, 17

Bar 580-1Bardejov 866-7Bardejovské Kúpele 867Bârsana 713bathhouses, see banyas, bathhouses

& saunas

bathrooms 969Bay of Kotor 14, 572-8, 14beaches 24bears 691beer, see also breweries

Albania 74Belarus 101Bulgaria 152Croatia 266Czech Republic 29, 274, 324, 332Estonia 373Kosovo 447Lithuania 480, 511Macedonia 516, 541Poland 598, 670Romania 733Slovenia 908Ukraine 950-1

Belá Tatras 854-5Belarus 40, 79-106, 81

accommodation 79, 102activities 102arts 101budgeting 79business hours 102climate 79drinking 80, 101-2embassies & consulates 102environment 101exchange rates 80food 79, 80, 101-2highlights 81history 99-100holidays 103insurance 103internet access 103internet resources 80itineraries 80language 83, 103money 80, 103people 100-1planning 79-80politics 98-9postal services 103telephone services 103-4travel seasons 79travel to/from 80, 105, 973travel within 105-6visas 104-5weather 79

Belgrade 802-13, 804-5accommodation 807-8drinking 809-10entertainment 810-11food 808-9history 802information 812itineraries 802

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1000

INDEX B

Belgrade continuedshopping 812sights 802-3, 806-7tours 807travel to/from 812-13travel within 813

Belogradchik 199-200Bendery 561-2Berat 17, 61-3, 17bicycle travel, see cyclingBiertan 699BiH, see Bosnia & HercegovinaBihać 141-2biking, see cyclingbirdwatching 960

Bulgaria 186, 203, 204Hungary 408, 432Macedonia 536, 537Montenegro 584Romania 723, 732

Biskupin 648Bitola 533-4Bjelašnica 123Bjelila 575Black Lake 589Black Sea 14, 187-98, 721-9, 721Blagaj 132Blansko 318Bled 888-92, 890Bled Island 888, 6boat travel 972, 973, see also canoe-

ing, kayaking, sailing, yachtingBobotov Kuk 589Bohemia 304-16Bohinj 892-4books, see literatureBosnia & Hercegovina 40, 107-50,

109, 144accommodation 107, 147activities 147-8arts 146-7budgeting 107business hours 148climate 107drinking 108environment 147exchange rates 108food 107, 108, 148highlights 109history 143-6holidays 148internet access 148internet resources 108itineraries 108

language 147money 108, 148people 146planning 107-8politics 143postal services 148safety 148telephone services 148travel seasons 107travel to/from 108, 149travel within 149-50visas 149weather 107

Botiza 713Bovec 895-6Boyana 163-4brandy

Albania 47Bosnia & Hercegovina 108Bulgaria 203-4Croatia 266Estonia 373Macedonia 516, 541Moldova 565Montenegro 570Romania 678, 733Serbia 800, 824Slovakia 828, 869Slovenia 874, 908

Braşov 694-8, 696Bratislava 830-9, 832-3

accommodation 833-5activities 831, 833drinking 836entertainment 836-7festivals & events 833food 835-6history 830information 837itineraries 830shopping 837sights 830-1, 835tours 833travel to/from 837-8travel within 838-9

Bratislava Forest Park 831Brest 92-6, 93breweries, see also beer

Budweiser Budvar Brewery 310Chişinău Brewery 549Chodovar Brewery 308Pilsner Urquell Brewery 308

bridge diving 26Brno 316-20Bucegi Mountains 695Bucharest 679-90, 680-1, 684-5

accommodation 686-7drinking 687-8

entertainment 688food 687information 688-9shopping 688sights 679, 682-3, 686travel to/from 689-90travel within 690

Buda Hills 384Budapest 13, 379-98, 381, 382-3,

386-7, 13accommodation 389-91activities 380-1, 383-5drinking 393entertainment 393-4festivals & events 389food 391-3history 380information 395-6shopping 395sights 380-1, 383-5tours 389travel to/from 396, 397travel within 396-8

budgeting 22, see also individual countries

Budva 578-9Bulgakov, Mikhail 750Bulgaria 41, 151-208, 153

accommodation 151, 204activities 204arts 201-2budgeting 151business hours 204-5climate 151drinking 152, 203-4embassies & consulates 205environment 202-3exchange rates 152food 151, 152, 203-4, 205highlights 153history 200-1holidays 206internet access 205internet resources 152itineraries 152legal matters 205money 152, 205-6people 201planning 151-2safety 206telephone services 206travel seasons 151travel to/from 152, 206-7travel within 207-8visas 206weather 151

bungee jumping 26, 473, 960Burgas 194-6

1001IN

DEX B-C

bus travel 972, 973-4business hours 961, see also

individual countriesButrint 68Byala 193

Ccanoeing 960, see also kayaking

Czech Republic 313Estonia 362-3, 368Hungary 432Latvia 473Lithuania 498Poland 666, 671-2Slovenia 892, 895

canyoning 960Cape Kolka 470-1car travel 972, 974-5Carpathian Mountains 635-40, 931castles, fortresses & palaces 24

Bojnice Castle 846Bran Castle 698, 16Bratislava Castle 830Brest Fortress 92, 94Český Krumlov Castle 313Diocletian’s Palace 242-5Gradačac 141Hluboká Chateau 313Kalemegdan Citadel 802Kamyanets-Podilsky Fortress

932-3Königsberg 778Ljubljana Castle 876Peter & Paul Fortress 765, 767-8Petrodvorets 777Prague Castle 276-7, 282Predjama Castle 898Rundāle Palace 470Smederevo Fortress 811Spiš Castle 857Tešanj 141Trakai Castle 497Tsarevets Fortress 177Tsarskoe Selo 777Valtice Chateau 326Visegrád Citadel 401, 20Vranduk 141Wawel Castle 616

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

Ceauşescu, Nicolea 706cell phones 968Cēsis 474České Budějovice 310-12Český Krumlov 20, 312-16, 314, 20Cetinje 582-3Charles Bridge 283, 285, 7children, travel with 961-2

Chişinău 548-56, 550-1accommodation 549drinking 553entertainment 553-4food 551-3information 554itineraries 548shopping 554sights 548-9travel to/from 554-5travel within 555-6

Chodová Planá 308Chornobyl 100, 920, 951-2Christo Javacheff 203Chufut-Kale 945churches & cathedrals

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) 344

Annunciation Cathedral (Moscow) 746

Archangel Cathedral (Moscow) 743Armenian Cathedral (Lviv) 927-8Assumption Cathedral (Moscow)

743Basilica of St George (Prague) 277Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

(Moscow) 750Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection

(Podgorica) 585Cathedral of SS John the Baptist &

John the Evangelist (Toruń) 659Cathedral of SS Peter & Paul

(Brno) 316Cathedral of SS Peter & Paul

(Kamyanets-Podilsky) 933Cathedral of St Barbara (Kutná

Hora) 303Cathedral of St Domnius (Split)

243Cathedral of St Elizabeth (Košice)

863Cathedral of St George (Piran) 901Cathedral of St James the Elder

(Olsztyn) 664-5Cathedral of St John the Baptist

(Wrocław) 641Cathedral of St Lovro (Trogir)

249-50Cathedral of St Sophia (Veliky

Novogord) 760Cathedral of the Assumption

(Koper) 899Cathedral of the Assumption (Krk

Town) 238Cathedral of the Assumption

of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 211

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (Dubrovnik) 257

Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (Ohrid) 529-30, 18

Court Cathedral of St Nicholas (Veliky Novogord) 760

Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 457Dominican Cathedral (Lviv) 927Kaliningrad Cathedral 779, 781Kazan Cathedral (St Petersburg)

768Latin Cathedral (Lviv) 927, 13SS Peter & Paul Cathedral (St

Petersburg) 767-8St Basil’s Cathedral (Moscow)

746, 12St Isaac’s Cathedral

(St Petersburg) 765St Jacob’s Cathedral (Rīga) 458St John’s Cathedral (Warsaw) 602St Mark’s Cathedral (Korčula

Island) 253St Martin’s Cathedral (Bratislava)

830St Moritz Cathedral (Olomouc) 321St Nicholas’ Cathedral (Braşov) 695St Nicholas Orthodox Maritime

Cathedral (Liepāja) 472St Peter & Paul Cathedral (Kaunas)

498St Sophia’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 915St Tryphon’s Cathedral (Kotor) 575St Vitus Cathedral (Prague) 276St Volodymyr’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 920St Wenceslas Cathedral (Olomouc)

321Sveta Nedelya Cathedral (Sofia) 155Sveta Sofija Cathedral (Ohrid) 530Sveti Nikola Bolnički (Ohrid) 530Vác Cathedral 400Vilnius Cathedral 482Wawel Cathedral (Kraków) 616

Čičmany 842cinema

Albania 73Bosnia & Hercegovina 147Czech Republic 331Poland 669Romania 732Russia 790Slovenia 908Ukraine 949

Cişmigiu Garden 683City Park (Budapest) 385climate 22, see also individual

countriesclubbing 27Cluj-Napoca 702-5, 704coffee 203Cojuşna 556communism 25

Albania 72Bulgaria 201Czech Republic 329

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1002

INDEX C

-E

communism continuedHungary 428Poland 667Romania 730Russia 788-9Slovakia 868

Comrat 561Constanţa 726-7consulates 962-3, see also individual

countriescorruption 966-7credit cards 965Cres 239Cricova 556Crimea 940-6Crişana 705-9Croatia 41, 209-72, 267-8, 212-13,

18accommodation 209, 267arts 264-5budgeting 210business hours 268climate 209drinking 210, 266-7economy 263embassies & consulates 268environment 265-6exchange rates 210food 209, 210, 266-7, 268highlights 212history 263-4holidays 269internet resources 210itineraries 210money 210, 268-9people 264planning 209-10politics 262-3, 264telephone services 269tourist information 269travel seasons 209travel to/from 210, 270travel within 270-2visas 269-70weather 209

Curonian Spit 21, 507-9, 21cycling 960, 973

Bulgaria 204Croatia 227, 230, 233, 255, 267Hungary 432Latvia 473Lithuania 21, 508-9Montenegro 585, 588Poland 640, 646, 671

Romania 691Russia 751, 769-70, 783Slovakia 831, 833, 850, 854Slovenia 892, 894, 895

Czech Republic 41, 273-336, 275accommodation 273, 332arts 330-1budgeting 274business hours 332climate 273drinking 274, 331-2economy 330embassies & consulates 332-3environment 331exchange rates 274food 273, 274, 331-2, 333highlights 275history 328-30holidays 333internet access 333internet resources 274itineraries 274money 274, 333people 330planning 273-4politics 330postal services 333telephone services 334tourist information 334travel seasons 273travel to/from 274, 334-5travel within 335-6visas 334weather 273

Częstochowa 646

DDalmatia 18, 239-62dance 791dangers, see safetyDanube River 398-403, 721-6, 722Darłowo 662Debrecen 425-7Demir Kapija Gorge 537Despotovac 811Dhërmi 65digital photography 966Dihovo 534-5disabilities, travellers with 969

Albania 76Bosnia & Hercegovina 148Bulgaria 206Croatia 269Czech Republic 334Hungary 434Macedonia 542Poland 674Romania 736

Russia 795Slovakia 871Ukraine 954

diving 960Croatia 227, 230, 233, 255, 258, 267Montenegro 581Poland 671-2

Dobrota 574Dom Sovetov 778Dracula 694, 729-30drinks 25, see also beer, brandy,

coffee, vodka, winedriving, see car traveldriving licences 974drugs 967Drvengrad 821Drymades 65Dubrovnik 15, 256-62, 258-9, 15

accommodation 259-60activities 258-9drinking 261entertainment 261festivals & events 259food 260-1history 256information 261sights 256-8tours 259travel to/from 261-2travel within 262

Dudutki 91Dunajec Gorge 639Durrës 60-1

Eeconomy, see individual countriesEger 421-4, 422Elbląg 663-4electricity 962embassies 962-3, see also individual

countriesEmona 193environment, see individual countriesEstonia 41, 337-76, 339

accommodation 337, 373activities 373-4budgeting 338business hours 374climate 337drinking 338, 373economy 372embassies & consulates 374environment 372exchange rates 338festivals & events 374food 337, 338, 373, 374highlights 339history 370-2

1003IN

DEX E-Hinternet access 374internet resources 338itineraries 338money 338, 374, 375people 372planning 337-8postal services 375public holidays 375telephone services 375travel seasons 337travel to/from 338, 375travel within 375-6visas 375weather 337

Esztergom 402-3events, see festivals & eventsexchange rates, see individual

countriesEXIT Festival 30, 814extreme sports 26

Ffestivals & events 28-32, see also

individual locationsBaltica International Folklore

Festival 30Bažant Pohoda 30, 840Budapest Spring Festival 28, 389Czech Beer Festival 29Don Cento Jazz Festival 31Dragačevo Trumpet Assembly 21,

31, 818, 21Dvořák Autumn 31Easter Festival of Sacred Music 29EXIT Festival 30, 814Guča Trumpet Festival 21, 31,

818, 21Hartera Festival 30, 235International Labour Day 29International Music Festival 31Ivana Kupala 30Jewish Culture Festival 30, 623Karlovy Vary International Film

Festival 30, 305Küstendorf Film & Music Festi-

val 28Lviv Coffee Festival 31Medieval Festival of the Arts 30Moldova Wine Festival 32Music Biennale Zagreb 29, 218Ohrid Summer Festival 30, 530Sarajevo Film Festival 30-1, 116Sarajevo International Jazz Festival

32, 116Ski-Jumping World Cup 28-9Slavyansky Bazaar 30, 98St John’s Eve 30Sziget Music Festival 31, 389Terraneo Festival 31

Tirana International Film Festival 32, 52

Vitranc Cup 28Východná 31

films, see cinemafirewater, see brandyFish Village 781fishing 537food 25, see also individual locationsfootball 757, 776fortresses, see castles, fortresses

& palacesFrombork 664Fruška Gora 817

GGadimë Cave 441Gagauzia 561Galičnik 527galleries, see museums & galleriesgay & lesbian travellers 963

Albania 75Belarus 102-3Bosnia & Hercegovina 148Bulgaria 205Croatia 222, 268Czech Republic 296, 333Estonia 374Hungary 433Moldova 566Montenegro 594Poland 672Romania 734Russia 755, 775, 794Slovakia 870Slovenia 909-10Ukraine 953

Gdańsk 650-6, 652accommodation 653-4drinking 655entertainment 655festivals & events 653food 654-5information 655sights 651-3travel to/from 655-6travel within 656

Gdynia 657Gerlachovský štít 850Gierłoż 666Giżycko 666Gjirokastra 69-70Gniezno 648Golden Sands 192Gorky Park 749-50Grădina Publică Ştefan cel Mare şi

Sfînt 548Great Masurian Lakes 666

Grūtas Park 499Guča 21Gyógy-tó 410Győr 403-5

Hhealth 963-4Hel 662Heraclea Lyncestis 534Herăstrău Park 686Herceg Novi 572-4Hercegovina 123-34, see also Bosnia

& HercegovinaHermitage 761, 764, 765, 11Hervatov 867Hévíz 410High Tatras 12, 848-54, 849,

2, 12hiking 25, 960-1

Albania 58, 63, 75Bosnia & Hercegovina 148Bulgaria 164, 174, 179, 204Croatia 233, 268Czech Republic 307Hungary 408, 415, 432Latvia 473Montenegro 584, 585, 588, 590Poland 638, 640, 646, 671Romania 691safety 691Serbia 821, 824Slovakia 12, 843-4, 847, 848, 850-1,

854, 855-6, 859-60, 870Slovenia 888, 892, 894, 895

Hill of Crosses 503Himara 65-6history, see individual countrieshitching 975holidays 966, see also individual

countriesHomeland War (Croatia) 263-4horseback riding 432, 961Hrodna 91Humor 719Hungary 41, 377-436, 379

accommodation 377, 431activities 432arts 429-30budgeting 378business hours 432climate 377drinking 378, 430-1embassies & consulates 432environment 430exchange rates 378food 377, 378, 430-1, 433highlights 379history 427-8

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1004

INDEX H

-K

Hungary continuedholidays 433 internet access 433internet resources 378itineraries 378language 433media 433money 378, 432, 433people 428-9planning 377-8postal services 433telephone services 433tourist information 434travel seasons 377travel to/from 378, 434-5travel within 435-6visas 434weather 377

Hvar Island 250-3, 2

IIaşi 714-17, 716ice hockey 868ice skating 348Ieud 713-14immigration 971index sandwich 815insurance 964, 974-5internet access 964, see also indi-

vidual countriesinternet resources 23, see also indi-

vidual countriesIstria 226-34itineraries 33-9, see also individual

countries

JJahorina 122-3Jajce 138-9Jal 66jet-skiing 193Jewish heritage 27, see also syna-

goguesAuschwitz 627Birkenau 627concentration camps 100, 304,

510, 627, 633, 818festivals 30Kraków 621Mikulov 326monuments 83, 501museums 111, 280-1, 284, 385,

486, 606, 621, 683, 830tours 622

Vilnius 487Warsaw 606

Julian Alps 887-97Juodkrantė 508Jūrmala 469-70

KKadriorg Park 346Kaliningrad 779-86, 780-1

accommodation 783-4activities 783drinking 784-5entertainment 785food 784-5information 785sights 779, 781-3travel to/from 785-6travel within 786

Kaliningrad region 778-9, 779Kamyanets-Podilsky 932-4Karlovy Vary 304-7Karlštejn 300-1Kateřinská Cave 318Kaunas 498-504, 500

accommodation 502drinking 503entertainment 503-4food 502-3information 504sights 498-9travel to/from 504travel within 504

Kavadarci 536-7kayaking 960, see also canoeing

Bosnia & Hercegovina 26, 143Croatia 258-9, 268Estonia 348Montenegro 573, 584Poland 671-2Serbia 824Slovenia 892, 895, 896

Kazanlâk 175-7Kecskemét 415-17, 416Kernavė 497-8Keszthely 409-10Kętrzyn 666Kežmarok 855Khatyn 92kiiking 363Kiten 198Klaipėda 505-7Kláštorisko Chata 860Kláštorisko Gorge 860Kobarid 896-7Kolašin 588-9Koliba 123Kolka 471

Kolkasrags 470-1Kołobrzeg 662Kolomyya 931Konopiště 301Kopaonik 820Koper 899-900Koprivshtitsa 175Korčula Island 253Košice 861-5, 862Kosiv 931Kosovo 41, 437-48, 439

accommodation 437, 447arts 446-7budgeting 438business hours 447climate 437drinking 438embassies & consulates 447environment 447exchange rates 438food 437, 438, 447highlights 439history 445-6holidays 447-8internet resources 438itineraries 438media 446money 438, 447people 446planning 437-8postal services 447safety 448telephone services 448travel seasons 437travel to/from 438, 448travel within 448visas 448weather 437

Kotor 574-7, 576Kozjak Stream Waterfalls 896Kozłówka 633Kraków 12, 616-29, 618-19, 13

accommodation 623-4activities 616-17drinking 625-6entertainment 626festivals & events 623food 624-5information 627-8shopping 626-7sights 616-17, 621-2tours 622-3travel to/from 628-9

Kranjska Gora 894-5Kravice Waterfalls 133Kremlin (Moscow) 743, 746Kremlin (Veliky Novogord) 760Krk Island 238-9

1005IN

DEX K-M

Krk Town 238-9Kruja 59-60Krupa na Vrbasu 141Ksamil 68Kuldīga 471Kúpelne ostrov 840Kutná Hora 301-4, 302Kyiv 915-25, 918-19

accommodation 921-2drinking 923-4entertainment 924food 922-3information 924sights 915, 920-1travel to/from 924-5travel within 925

LLadomirová 867Lake Balaton 407-10Lake Bled 888-92, 890Lake Bohinj 892-4Lake Koman 59Lake Malta 648Lake Matka 526Lake Morskie Oko 637-8Lake Solina 640Lake Tikveš 537landmines 967languages 981-97Lastva 574Latvia 42, 449-78, 451

accommodation 449, 476arts 475budgeting 450business hours 476climate 449drinking 450economy 475embassies & consulates 476exchange rates 450festivals & events 476food 449, 450, 475, 476highlights 451history 474-5holidays 477internet access 476internet resources 450itineraries 450money 450, 476people 475planning 449-50postal services 476-7telephone services 477travel seasons 449travel to/from 450, 477-8travel within 478

visas 477weather 449

Łazienki Park 603-4Łeba 662Lednice 326lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian

travellersLesnoy 787Levoča 856-7Levski, Vasil 201Liepāja 472Lipica 900literature

Albania 73Belarus 101Bosnia & Hercegovina 146-7Croatia 264-5Czech Republic 330Hungary 429Moldova 564Poland 668-9Romania 731-2Russia 790-1Serbia 823Slovenia 907Ukraine 949

Lithuania 42, 479-514, 481accommodation 479, 511arts 510budgeting 480business hours 511climate 479drinking 480, 511economy 509embassies & consulates 511-12environment 510-11exchange rates 480food 479, 480, 511, 512highlights 481history 509-10holidays 512internet access 512internet resources 480itineraries 480money 480, 511, 512people 510planning 479-80telephone services 512travel seasons 479travel to/from 480, 512-13travel within 513-14visas 512weather 479

Ljubljana 875-87, 878-9accommodation 881-2drinking 883-4entertainment 884-5festivals & events 881

food 882-3history 875-6information 885-6itineraries 876sights 876-7, 881tours 881travel to/from 886, 887travel within 886-7

Łódź 613-16Loket 307Lomnické sedlo 850Lošinj 239Lubin 629-33, 630Lukomir 123Lviv 16, 925-32, 926, 16

accommodation 928-9drinking 930-1entertainment 931food 929-30information 932sights 926-8travel to/from 932travel within 932

MMacedonia 42, 515-44, 517

accommodation 515, 541activities 541arts 540budgeting 516business hours 541climate 515drinking 516, 541economy 539embassies & consulates 541-2environment 540-1exchange rates 516food 515, 516, 541, 542highlights 517history 538-9holidays 542internet resources 516itineraries 516money 516, 542people 539-40planning 515-16politics 539postal services 542safety 542telephone services 542tourist information 542travel seasons 515travel to/from 516, 542-3travel within 543-4visas 542weather 515

Madara 183

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1006

INDEX M

Madara National Historical and Archaeological Reserve 183

Malbork 657-70Małopolska 616-35Mamaia 727-8maps 964-5Maramureş 709-14, 711Mariánské Lázně 308Maribor 905markets

Cheese Market (Peja) 444Christmas Market (Bratislava) 833Christmas Market (Prague) 285Christmas markets 32Dolac Market (Zagreb) 211Dorogomilovsky Market (Moscow)

750-1European Folk Craft Market 855Halės Market (Vilnius) 493Izmaylovo Market (Moscow) 749Kalvarijų Market (Vilnius) 493Knit Market (Tallinn) 353Sakta Flower Market (Rīga) 467souvenir market (Kraków) 626-7souvenir market (St Petersburg)

776souvenir market (Tallinn) 353Stara Čaršija (Bitola) 533

Martin 842Martin Brod 142Masuria 663-6Matka 526Mazovia 613-16Međed 589medical services 963Međugorje 132-3Melnik 165-7Memento Park 384Międzyzdroje 662Mikołajki 666Mikulov 325-8Mileştii Mici 556Milišići 123Minsk 82-90, 84

accommodation 85-6drinking 87-8entertainment 88food 86-7information 89shopping 88-9sights 82-4, 86tours 85travel to/from 89-90travel within 90

Mir 91-2Mljet Island 254-6mobile phones 968Moisei 714Moldavia 714-21Moldova 42, 545-68, 547

accommodation 545, 565-6arts 564-5budgeting 546business hours 566climate 545drinking 546, 565economy 564embassies & consulates 566environment 565exchange rates 546food 545, 546, 565, 566highlights 547history 562-4holidays 566internet resources 546itineraries 546money 546, 566people 564planning 545-6telephone services 566-7travel seasons 545travel to/from 546, 567travel within 567-8visas 567weather 545

Moldoviţa 720monasteries

Alexander Nevsky Monastery 769Bachkovo Monastery 174Bârsana Monastery 713Basarbovo Rock Monastery 186Caves Monastery 915Cetinje Monastery 583Dobrun Monastery 135Golia Monastery 714Gračanica Monastery 441Humor Monastery 719Ivanovo Rock Monastery 186Manasija Monastery 811Minorite Monastery 901Moldoviţa Monastery 720Monastery of St John the New 717Monastery of Sveti Nikola 537Morača Monastery 588Novo Hopovo Monastery 817Orheiul Vechi Monastery Complex

557Ostrog Monastery 587-8Pannonhalma Abbey 405Patriachate of Peć 444Paulite Monastery of Jasna Góra

646

Piva Monastery 591Pološki Monastery 537Red Monastery 855Rila Monastery 164-5Savina Monastery 572Snagov Monastery 694Sopoćani Monastery 819St George Monastery 819Studenica Monastery 820Suceviţa Monastery 720-1Sveta Bogoroditsa Monastery 180Sveti Jovan Bigorski Monastery

526-7Sveti Naum Monastery 532Sveti Nikolai Monastery 180Sveti Pantelejmon Monastery 519Treskavec Monastery 535-6Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 742Uspensky Monastery 945Visoki Dečani Monastery 444Voroneţ Monastery 719-20Yuriyev Monastery 760Zrze Monastery 536

money 22, 23, 965-6, see also indi-vidual countries

moneychangers 965Monkova Valley 854Montenegro 42, 569-96, 571

accommodation 569, 594budgeting 570business hours 594climate 569drinking 570economy 591-2embassies & consulates 594exchange rates 570food 569, 570, 593, 594highlights 571history 592-3holidays 595internet resources 570itineraries 570money 570, 594people 593planning 569-70politics 591-2telephone services 595travel seasons 569travel to/from 570, 595-6travel within 596weather 569

Morača Canyon 588Moravia 316-28Morskoe 787Moscow 12, 742-59, 744-5

accommodation 751-3activities 751drinking 755-6

1007IN

DEX M-N

entertainment 756-7food 753-5history 742information 757-8shopping 757tours 751travel to/from 758-9travel within 759

mosquesBajrakli Mosque (Belgrade) 803Carshi Mosque (Pristina) 440Čaršija Mosque (Stolac) 133Dzhumaya Mosque (Plovdiv) 169Et’hem Bey Mosque (Tirana) 49-50Fethija Mosque (Bihać) 142Gazi-Husrevbey Mosque

(Sarajevo) 111Haji Alibey Mosque (Travnik) 137Hassan Jakovali Mosque (Pécs) 413Isak Mosque (Bitola) 533Jashar Pasha Mosque (Pristina)

440Karađozbeg Mosque (Mostar) 125Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque

(Mostar) 125Many Coloured Mosque (Travnik)

137Mosque Church (Pécs) 411Muradi Mosque (Vlora) 64Mustafa Paša Mosque (Skopje) 519Red Mosque (Berat) 62Roznamedži Ibrahimefendi Mosque

(Mostar) 125Sinan Pasha Mosque (Prizren) 445Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque

(Pristina) 440Sultan Murat Mosque (Skopje) 519Tombul Mosque (Shumen) 182Yahdar-Kadi Mosque (Bitola) 533Yeni Mosque (Bitola) 533

Mostar 19, 124-32, 126-7, 19accommodation 128-30drinking 130-1entertainment 131food 130history 124information 131-2shopping 131sights 124-5tours 125, 128travel to/from 131, 132travel within 132

motorcycle travel 972, 974-5mountain climbing 588movies, see cinemaMt Gubałówka 636Mt Hoverla 931Mt Lovćen 574Mt Tâmpa 695

Mt Triglav 19, 893, 19Mt Vodno 519Muhu 370museums & galleries 26

Andy Warhol Museum (Medzilaborce) 861

Beekeeping Museum (Radovljica) 889

Belarusian State Art Museum (Minsk) 82

Bulgakov House-Museum (Moscow) 750

Central Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube Delta (Tulcea) 723

Chopin Museum (Warsaw) 603Chornobyl Museum (Kyiv) 920Cosmonautics Museum (Moscow)

749Csontváry Museum (Pécs) 413Erarta (St Petersburg) 770Europos Parkas sculpture park 496Grigore Antipa Natural History

Museum (Bucharest) 683Helikon Palace Museum

(Keszthely) 409Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 487Hotel Viru KGB Museum (Tallinn)

346Museum of Beekeeping & Wine

Cellar (Sremski Karlovci) 817Museum of Devils (Kaunas) 499Museum of Genocide Victims

(Vilnius) 486National MK Čiurlionis Art Museum

(Kaunas) 499Onufri Museum (Berat) 62Permanent Exhibition of the 1989

Revolution (Timişoara) 705PinchukArtCentre (Kyiv) 26, 920-1Prague Jewish Museum 280-1,

284Rīga Art Nouveau Centre 460Schindler’s Factory (Kraków) 622State Hermitage Museum (St

Petersburg) 761, 764, 765, 11State Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau

627State Tretyakov Gallery (Moscow)

748Šternberg Palace (Prague) 277Sugihara House (Kaunas) 27, 499Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 111Underground Museum of Socialism

(Vilnius) 496War Photo Limited (Dubrovnik) 256

musicAlbania 73Bosnia & Hercegovina 32, 147Bulgaria 201-2Croatia 29, 30, 265Czech Republic 29, 31, 330-1

Hungary 31, 389, 429Macedonia 30, 540Moldova 564-5Poland 669Romania 732Russia 31, 791Serbia 21, 31, 818, 823-4, 21Slovakia 30, 869Slovenia 908Ukraine 950

NNarva 357-8national parks & reserves

Aukštaitija National Park 498Belavezhskaya Pushcha National

Park 96Białowieża National Park 614Biogradska Gora National Park

589Carpathian National Nature Park

931Curonian Spit National Park

507-9Durmitor National Park 589-91European Bison Reserve 614Galičica National Park 532Gauja National Park 472Kiskunság National Park 415Kurshskaya Kosa National Park

787-8Lahemaa National Park 356-7Lake Skadar National Park 583-5Llogaraja Pass National Park 64Lovćen National Park 582Malá Fatra National Park 843-6,

844-5Mavrovo National Park 526-7Mljet National Park 255Mt Dajti National Park 56Pelister National Park 534-5Pieniny National Park 855-6Plitvice Lakes National Park 142,

226, 26Pripyatsky National Park 97Slovak Karst National Park 865-6Slovenský Raj National Park 860Soomaa National Park 368Strict Nature Reserve 614Sutjeska National Park 135Tatra National Park 637-9Trakai Historical National Park

497Una National Park 142

Nesebâr 193-4Nevsky Prospekt 768, 766Nida 508-9Ninth Fort 502Niš 817-19

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1008

INDEX N

-R

Novaya Gollandiya 768-9Novi Pazar 819-20Novi Sad 814-16Nowa Huta 622Nyasvizh 91

OOdesa 934-40, 936Ohrid 18, 527-3, 528, 18Old Towns 24

Belgrade 803Bratislava 830-1Bucharest 682-3Budva 578Český Krumlov 20Dubrovnik 15, 256-7Gdańsk 652Herceg Novi 572Kaunas 498-9Kežmarok 855Klaipėda 505-6Kraków 617, 621Minsk 83Novi Pazar 819Olsztyn 664Poreč 232Poznań 647Prague 277-83Rīga 452-3, 457-9Rovinj 230Sarajevo 110-11Szczecin 663Tallinn 340-1, 344-6Toruń 659Trebinje 134Trogir 249Ulcinj 581Warsaw 600-2Wrocław 640-1Zadar 240Zamość 634

Olomouc 320-4, 322Olsztyn 664-6Opatija 237-8opening hours 961, see also indi-

vidual countriesOradea 708-9Orange Revolution 947Oravský Podzámok 843Orebić 254Ostróda 663-4Otepää 362-3Our-Lady-of-the-Rock Island 574

PPakleni Islands 251palaces, see castles, fortresses &

palacesPalanga 504-5Paneriai 496-7Pannonhalma Abbey 405paragliding 578, 960parasailing 588Parcul Catedralei 548Park Oliwski 652-3Pärnu 363-7, 364passports 971Pécs 411-14, 412Peja 443-5people, see individual countriesPerast 574Petrodvorets 777Petrovac 580phonecards 968photography 966Pieniny National Park 855-6Piešťany 840Piran 900-4, 902-3Piva Canyon 591planning 22-3, see also individual

countriesbudgeting 22calendar of events 28-32internet resources 23itineraries 33-9packing 23travel seasons 22

Plitvice Lakes 142, 226Plovdiv 168-73, 170Plzeň 308-10Počitelj 133Podgorica 585-7, 586-7Podlasie 613-16Polańczyk 640Poland 42, 597-676, 599

accommodation 597, 670-1activities 671-2arts 668-9budgeting 598business hours 672climate 597drinking 598, 670embassies & consulates 672environment 669-70exchange rates 598food 597, 598, 670, 672highlights 599history 666-8holidays 673internet access 672internet resources 674itineraries 598

media 672-3money 598, 673people 668planning 597-8politics 667-8postal services 673safety 673telephone services 673travel seasons 597travel to/from 598, 674-5travel within 675-6visas 674weather 597

politics, see individual countriesPomerania 650-63Poprad 847-8Poreč 232-4Portorož 904postal services 966, see also

individual countriesPostojna 897-8Poznań 646-50Prague 10, 276-300, 278-9, 282,

288-9, 11accommodation 285-7, 290-1drinking 293-4entertainment 294-7festivals & events 285food 291-3gay travellers 296information 297-8itineraries 276lesbian travellers 296shopping 297sights 276-7, 280-1, 283-5tours 285travel to/from 298, 299travel within 298-300

Prčanj 574Predjama 898Prilep 535Primorsko 198Pristina 440-3, 442Prizren 445Przemyśl 639-40Pržno 579-80Ptuj 905-6public holidays 966, see also

individual countriesPula 226-9Punkva Cave 318Punta Corrente Forest Park 230

RRadovljica 889rafting 961

Albania 63, 75Bosnia & Hercegovina 26, 143, 147

1009IN

DEX R-S

Bovec 895Croatia 258-9, 268Czech Republic 307Montenegro 588, 590Serbia 824Slovenia 892, 896

Rakhiv 931Red Square 746-8, 12reserves, see national parks &

reservesRīga 18, 452-69, 454-5, 456-7,

18accommodation 461-3activities 460-1drinking 465-6entertainment 466festivals & events 461food 463-5history 462information 467-8itineraries 453shopping 466-9sights 452-3, 457-60tours 461travel to/from 468travel within 468-9

Rijeka 234-7Rijeka Crnojevića 584Rila Monastery 164-5Risan 574rock climbing 268, 893Romania 43, 677-738, 679

accommodation 677, 733-4arts 731budgeting 678business hours 734climate 677customs regulations 734drinking 678, 733embassies & consulates 734environment 732exchange rates 678food 677, 678, 732-3, 734highlights 679history 729-31holidays 735internet resources 678itineraries 678money 678, 734-5people 731planning 677-8politics 729, 730-1postal services 735telephone services 735-6tourist information 736travel seasons 677travel to/from 678, 736-7travel within 737-8

visas 736weather 677

Rovinj 229-32Rozavlea 713Rt Kamenjak 227ruins

Amphitheatre of Durrës 60Butrint 68Cella Septichora Visitors Centre

411, 413Fortress of Justinian (Tirana) 50-1Mediana (Niš) 818Melnik 166Pirita Convent 347Roman Thermae 187Stari Bar 580Stobi 537Teutonic Knights’ Castle Ruins 659Triumphal Arch of Sergius 227Žabljak Crnojevića 584

Ruse 183-6, 184Rusenski Lom Nature Park 186-7Russia 43, 739-98, 741

accommodation 739, 792-3arts 790-1budgeting 740business hours 793climate 739drinking 740, 792embassies & consulates 793environment 791-2exchange rates 740food 739, 740, 792, 793-4highlights 741history 788-9holidays 794internet resources 740itineraries 740money 740, 794people 789-90planning 739-40politics 788, 789postal services 794safety 794telephone services 794-5travel seasons 739travel to/from 740, 796, 973travel within 796-8visas 795-6weather 739

Rybachy 787

SSaaremaa 368-70safety 966-8, see also individual

locationshitching 975train travel 977

sailing 961Sanok 640Săpânţa 712Sarajevo 110-22, 112, 114

accommodation 116-17activities 110-15drinking 118-19entertainment 119-20festivals & events 116food 117-18history 110information 120itineraries 110shopping 120sights 110-15tours 115-16travel to/from 120, 121travel within 120

Saranda 66-8Šargan 8 railway 821saunas, see banyas, bathhouses &

saunasSaxon Gardens 603Saxon Triangle 699scams 967Serbia 43, 799-826, 801

accommodation 799, 824activities 824arts 823-4budgeting 800business hours 824-5climate 799drinking 800, 824embassies & consulates 825environment 824exchange rates 800food 799, 800, 824, 825highlights 801history 822-3holidays 825internet resources 800itineraries 800money 800, 825people 823planning 799-800politics 822, 823postal services 825safety 825telephone services 825tourist information 825travel seasons 799travel to/from 800, 826travel within 826visas 826weather 799

Sergiev Posad 742Sfântu Gheorghe 725-6Shipka Pass 176

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1010

INDEX S

Shkodra 56-8shopping, see individual locationsShumen 182-3Sibiu 700-2Sighetu Marmaţiei 710, 712Sighişoara 698-700Sigulda 472-4Silesia 640-6Simferopol 940-2Sinaia 691-4Širkové saddle 854Skalnaté pleso 850Skanderbeg 60skiing 961

Bosnia & Hercegovina 122, 123, 147

Bulgaria 164, 167Macedonia 527Montenegro 588, 590Poland 638, 646, 671Romania 691Serbia 821Slovakia 844, 850, 851, 852, 870Slovenia 892, 894, 895Ukraine 931

Škocjan Caves 898-9Skopje 517-26, 520-1

accommodation 519-21drinking 523entertainment 523-4festivals & events 519food 521-3information 525itineraries 518shopping 524-5sights 518-19travel to/from 524, 525travel within 526

skydiving 960Slavkovský štít 850Sliezsky dom 850Slovakia 43, 827-72, 829

accommodation 827, 870activities 870arts 868-9budgeting 828business hours 870climate 827drinking 828, 869embassies & consulates 870environment 869exchange rates 828food 827, 828, 869highlights 829

history 867-8holidays 871internet access 870internet resources 828itineraries 828money 828people 868planning 827-8postal services 871telephone services 871tourist information 871travel seasons 827travel to/from 828, 871-2travel within 872visas 871weather 827

Slovenia 43, 873-912, 875accommodation 873, 908-9arts 907-8budgeting 874business hours 909climate 873drinking 874, 908embassies & consulates 909environment 908exchange rates 874festivals & events 909food 873, 874, 908, 909highlights 875history 906-7holidays 910internet access 910internet resources 874itineraries 874money 874, 910people 907planning 873-4postal services 910telephone services 910tourist information 910-11travel seasons 873travel to/from 874, 911travel within 911visas 911weather 873

Slovenský Raj 859-61, 858-9Small Carpathians 839Smederevo 811Smolyan 173-4Snagov Lake 694Soča Valley 895-7soccer 757, 776Sofia 154-63, 156-7

accommodation 155, 158-9drinking 159-60entertainment 160food 159information 161

shopping 161sights 154-5travel to/from 161-2travel within 163

Solin 243Sopot 657Sopron 405-7Soroca 557Southern Bucovina 718-21, 719Sozopol 196-8, 14spas 432Spišská Nová Ves 859Spišské Podhradie 857-8Split 242-9, 244-5

accommodation 246-7activities 245-6drinking 247-8entertainment 247-8festivals & events 246food 247history 242information 248sights 242-5travel to/from 248-9travel within 249

Sremski Karlovci 817Starý Smokovec 850State Hermitage Museum

(St Petersburg) 761, 764, 765, 11St George’s Island 574, 14Stobi 537Stolac 133-4Stoliv 574St Petersburg 10, 761-78, 762-3,

766, 10accommodation 770-2activities 769-70drinking 774-5entertainment 775-6festivals & events 770food 772-4history 761information 776-7shopping 776sights 761, 764-5, 767-9, 770tours 770travel to/from 777-8travel within 778

Štrbački Buk 142Štrbské Pleso 850Studený Potok 850Subotica 816Suceava 717-18Suceviţa 720-1Suchá Belá Gorge 860Sudeten Mountains 645-6Sulina 724-5Sveti Konstantin 192

1011IN

DEX S-V

Sveti Stefan 579-80Svetlogorsk 786-7Święta Lipka 666Świnoujście 662synagogues

Great Synagogue (Budapest) 385

Izaak’s Synagogue (Kraków) 621Klaus Synagogue (Prague) 280-1,

284Maisel Synagogue (Prague) 280-1,

284Nożyk Synagogue (Warsaw) 606Old-New Synagogue (Prague)

281, 284Orthodox Synagogue (Oradea)

708-9Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 280-1Remuh Synagogue (Kraków) 621Rīga Synagogue 453Spanish Synagogue (Prague)

280-1, 284Szczecin 662-3Szeged 417-20, 418Szentendre 398-400

TTábor 311Tallinn 15, 340-56, 342-3, 15

accommodation 349-50activities 348drinking 352entertainment 352-3festivals & events 348-9food 350-2history 340information 354shopping 353-4sights 340-1, 344-8tours 348travel within 355-6travel to/from 354-5

Tartu 358-62, 360Tatra Mountains 637-9, 847-55Tatranská Lomnica 850Telč 324-5telephone services 968, see also

individual countriesTerezín 304theatre 791theft 967-8Theth 58Tiesňavy Gorge 843Tihany 408-9Tikveš 536-7time 968-9Timişoara 705-8tipping 965

Tirana 49-56, 50accommodation 52-3drinking 53-4entertainment 54festivals & events 52food 53information 54-5shopping 54sights 49-52tours 52travel to/from 55-6travel within 55-6

Tiraspol 559-61Tivat 577-8toilets 969Tokaj 424-5, 866Tomašovský výhľad 860Toomemägi 359Topola 811Toruń 21, 658-62, 658-9, 21tourist information 969, see also

individual countriestours 976, see also individual

locationstrain travel 15, 972, 976-8, 15

rail passes 977-8resources 976-7safety 977

Trakai 497Transdniestr 557-62Transylvania 16, 690-705, 692-3travel to/from Eastern Europe

971-2travel within Eastern Europe 22-3,

972-8travellers cheques 965-6Travnik 137-8Trebinje 134-5Trenčín 839-41Treska Canyon 526Trogir 249-50Trpejca 532Tsarevo 198Tsarskoe Selo 777Tulcea 722-4

UUkraine 43, 913-56, 916-17

accommodation 913, 952arts 949-50budgeting 914business hours 952climate 913customs regulations 952-3drinking 914, 950-1embassies & consulates 953exchange rates 914food 913, 914, 950-1, 953

highlights 916history 946-8holidays 954internet access 953internet resources 914itineraries 914money 914, 953people 948-9planning 913-14politics 948postal services 953safety 954telephone services 954travel seasons 913travel to/from 914, 954-5travel within 955-6visas 954weather 913

Ulcinj 581-2Umoljani 123Ustka 662

VVác 400-1vacations 966Vadu Izei 713Valbonë 58Valea Izei 712-14Valtice 326Vama Veche 728-9Varna 187-91, 188-9Vataša 537vegetarian travellers

Albania 74Belarus 101Croatia 267Czech Republic 332Hungary 430-1Kosovo 447Moldova 565Montenegro 593Russia 792Serbia 824Ukraine 951

Veliko Târnovo 177-82, 178Veliky Novogord 759-61Velká Studená Valley 850Velvet Revolution 329Ventas Rumba 471Ventspils 471-2Verudela Peninsula 227Vidin 199Viljandi 367-8Vilnius 481-96, 484-5, 488-9

accommodation 486, 490-1drinking 493entertainment 493-4

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1012

INDEX V

-Z

Vilnius continued festivals & events 486food 491-3history 482information 494-5itineraries 482shopping 494sights 482-6travel to/from 495-6travel within 496

Vintgar Gorge 888violence 968Virpazar 584visas 23, 969-70, see also individual

countriesViscri 699Višegrad 20, 135-6, 401-2, 22Visoko 136-7Vistota Efa 787Vitosha Nature Park 164Vitsebsk 96-8Vlkolínec 842-3Vlora 64-5vodka

Belarus 101Estonia 373Poland 598, 670Russia 792Ukraine 914

Vojvodina 813-16Volosko 238Vorokhta 931Voroneţ 719-20Vozarci 537Vrátna Valley 843-4Vrbas Canyons 141Vršič Pass 19Vrtbov Garden 283Vuno 66Vyšehrad 286

WWarhol, Andy 861Warmia 663-6Warsaw 600-13, 601, 602, 604

accommodation 607-8drinking 610entertainment 610festivals & events 607food 608-10history 600information 611itineraries 600

shopping 610-11sights 600-6tours 606travel to/from 611-13travel within 613

water parks 365, 348waterskiing 193weather 22, see also individual

countrieswebsites, see internet resourceswhite water rafting, see raftingWielkopolska 646-50Wilanów Park 605-6windsurfing 268, 671-2wine, see also wineries

Albania 74Bulgaria 152, 203-4Croatia 266Czech Republic 332Hercegovina 133Hungary 422, 424, 431Kosovo 438Macedonia 516Moldova 546, 565Montenegro 570Romania 733Slovakia 839, 869Slovenia 908Ukraine 951

wineries, see also wineAcorex vineyard 556Bovin Winery 537Çobo Winery 63Cojuşna vineyard 556Cricova 556Disan Hills Winery 537Elenov Winery 537Massandra Winery 942Mileştii Mici 556Mitko Manolev Winery 166Popova Kula Winery 537Tikveš Winery 536Vinoteka David 536

Witches’ Hill 508Wolf’s Lair 666women travellers 970

Albania 76Montenegro 595Russia 796

work 970Wrocław 640-5, 642WWI

Belarus 100Bosnia & Hercegovina 144

Bulgaria 201Romania 730Slovenia 907Ukraine 947

WWIIBelarus 100Bosnia & Hercegovina 144Bulgaria 201Estonia 371Moldova 563Poland 667Romania 730Russia 789Slovenia 907Ukraine 947

Yyachting

Croatia 268Montenegro 573Poland 671-2

Yalta 942-4Yaremche 931

ZŽabljak 589Zadar 240-2Zagreb 211, 214-26, 214-15

accommodation 219-20drinking 221-2entertainment 222-3festivals & events 218-19food 220-1history 211information 223-4itineraries 217shopping 223sights 211, 216-18tours 218travel to/from 224, 225travel within 224, 226

Zakopane 635-7Zamkovského chata 850Zamość 633-5Ždiar 854-5Zejmarská Gorge 860Želenkovac 142Zemun 813Žilina 841-2Zlatibor 820-2Zlatni Rt 230

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