278

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna Jacenko, Arlo Werkhoven, Artem Myr-gorodskyi, Barney Smith, Brian Sherman, Colin Hansen, Damien Tricoire, Danyo Romijn, Diana Maddison, Dimitris Basias, Donald H. Langlois, Edward McPhillips, Evert Bos, Fran-cois Benaroya, George Campbell, Hans Mag-nus Borge, Helen Haines, Janet Rossmann, Janet van Tubbergh, Jefferry Wong, Jerome Phillips, Jim Rogers, Jo Cook, Karen Davies, Leanne Pupchek, Lennart Davidsson, Lubos Vesely, Marcin Lapinski, Maria Livek, Michal Rudziecki, Monica George, Natasha Martisova, Pamela Stathakis, Sebastian Kelly, Sofiya Pa-pirnyk, Stephen Byrne, Thérèse Remus, Tracey Jeacock, Will Lake, Zeynep Tunc

AUTHOR THANKS Marc Di DucaA mammoth dyakuju to my Kyiv parents-in-law for all their help during research and for look-ing after sons Kirill and Taras. Huge thanks to

fellow author, Leonid Ragozin, for his profes-sional approach and to Vasyl in Rakhiv; Vitaly and family in Kolomyya; Yarema in Lviv; Olga in Ivano-Frankivsk; Olena and all the guys in Lutsk; Kirill and Lena in the Carpathians; and last, but certainly not least, my wife, Tanya, for her support during my trip and write-up.

Leonid RagozinMost of all I would like to thank Dmitry Surnin and Yelizaveta Ovdeyenko for providing shel-ter in Kyiv and Odesa. My former classmate Nikolay Malinovsky remains my favourite Kyiv expert. Also in Kyiv, many thanks to Vladimir and Viktoria Fedorin for unforgettable evenings and great conversations. Very special thanks to Leonid and Yelena Tsodikov for terrific days at their dacha in Sviatohirsk. Finally in Odesa, my heroes are Alla Belenkova, Yelena Lebedinskaya and Vladimir Chaplin.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas-sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sci-ences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra monastery, Kiev, BEW/AWL.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES279

THIS BOOK This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Ukraine guidebook was researched and written by Marc Di Duca and Leonid Ragozin, who also wrote the previous edition. The 1st and 2nd editions were written by Sarah Johnstone, who was assisted on the 2nd edition by Greg Bloom. Lisa Dunford contributed additional texts.

This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editors Katie O’Connell, Anna TylerCoordinating Editors Briohny Hooper, Kristin OdijkSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Jessica RoseManaging Editors Angela Tinson, Sasha Baskett

Senior Editors Catherine Naghten, Karyn NobleAssisting Editors Adrienne Costanzo, Gabrielle Innes, Elizabeth Jones, Anne MasonCover Research Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava Vladisavljevic

Thanks to Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Trent Paton, Mazzy Prinsep, Luna Soo

280

NO

TES

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

281

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 254-5, see

also individual locationslanguage 273-4

activities 88, 255-6, see also football, hang-gliding, hiking, rock climbing, skiing

AIDS 258air travel 264-5, 266, 268Alushta 191-2Andriyivsky Uzviz (Kyiv)

10, 11Andrukhovych, Yuri 252animals 159anti-cafes 61, 157apartment rentals 254

Kharkiv 212Kyiv 55Lviv 107Odesa 153

architecture 18-19, 248-9central Ukraine 28folk 48, 68, 99, 141-2Kyiv 28, 48, 62Lviv 29, 99Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky 68Soviet 18-19

area codes 261art galleries, see also

museumsAyvazovsky Gallery 198Bohdan & Varvara

Khanenko Museum of Arts 36-7

Izolyatsia 214-15Kharkiv Art Museum 209Lviv Art Gallery 100Museum of Western &

Eastern Art 150Mystetsky Arsenal 47Odessa Fine Arts Museum

150

Picture Gallery (Kamyanets-Podilsky) 81

PinchukArtCentre 37, 249Precarpathian Art

Museum 125Russian Art Museum 37Salo Museum 100

Artemivsk 219arts 248-9, see also

literature, music, painting

Askaniya Nova Reserve 159ATMs 259Ayvazovsky, Ivan 150, 198,

249

BBakhchysaray 15, 170-5, 172Balaklava 180-2Bandera, Stepan 227, 234bandura 86, 250, 86barabulka 187bathrooms 262Battleship Potemkin 147beaches 18, 88

Balaklava 182Black Sea Coast 88,

150-1, 89Cape Fiolent 177Cape Meganom 195Feodosiya 198Kurortne 196-7Kyiv 52Odesa 150-1Tikhaya Bay 197

beer 246Belarus 265Berdychiv 73-4Bessarabia 159-62Bessarabsky Rynok 59bicycle travel, see cyclingBila Tserkva 67-8Bilhorod-Dnistrovsky 160bird-watching 161boat travel 267, 268Bolshoy Kanyon 190

books 226, 230, 231, 236, 251-2

border crossings 264-6Belarus 265Hungary 143, 265Moldova 265-6Poland 112, 266Romania 136, 266-7Russia 200, 267Slovakia 143, 267

borshch 245boxing 243Bratslav 79budget 17Bukovel 130Bukovyna 136-40Bulgakov, Mikhail 33, 42,

231, 232, 252bus travel 265-7, 268-9business hours 259-60

CCape Meganom 195car travel 260, 265-7, 269-70

driving licences 269language 277

Carnival Humorina 20Carpathian National Nature

Park 127-30Carpathians, the 8, 29, 122-

44, 123, 8, 88accommodation 122, 130climate 122food 122highlights 8, 88, 123travel seasons 122

cash 259castles, fortresses & palaces

Akkerman fortress 160Berezhany Castle 83Chynadiyeve Castle 83Czerwonogrod 83Dubno 121Dytynets 203Genovese Citadel

(Feodosiya) 198

Genovese Fortress (Sudak) 15, 192-3, 15

Genovese Fortress of Cembalo (Balaklava) 181

High Castle 99Hubkiv Castle 83Kamyanets-Podilsky

Fortress 80, 11Khans’ Palace 171Khotyn Fortress 140Kichkine 190Kremenets 116-17Kudryntsi Castle 83Livadia Palace 188-9Lutsk Castle 118Massandra Palace 190Nevytske Castle 83Olyka Castle 83Palanok Castle 144Starostynsky Castle 83Svirzh Castle 83Swallow’s Nest 189, 85Sydoriv Castle 83Uzhhorod Castle 141Vorontsov Palace (Odesa)

147Vorontsovsky Palace

(Crimea) 189catacombs 158, 200cathedrals, see churchesCatherine the Great 146,

171, 231caves & cave cities

Antoniy Caves 203Cave Church (Pochayiv)

116Chufut-Kale 15, 172-3Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 8,

43-7, 46, 9Mangup-Kale 15, 175Mt Chatyr-Dag 192Sviatohirsk Lavra 218

Celan, Paul 138cell phones 16, 261cemeteries

Berdychiv 73, 74

282

INDEX C

-F

cemeteries continuedBratslav 79Iosofatova Valley 173Lychakivske Cemetery 101Melek-Chesmensky

Kurgan 200Pyatnytske

Kladovyshche 117Tsarsky Kurgan 200

Central Ukraine 28, 70-84, 71

accommodation 70climate 70highlights 71travel seasons 70

Charge of the Light Brigade 181

cheburek 187Chekhov, Anton 183, 191Chernihiv 202-5Chernivtsi 136-40, 137Chernivtsi University 136-8Chernobyl, see Chornobylchildren, travel with 256Chornobyl 26-7, 43, 234-5,

235Chornohora Ridge 128, 128Chufut-Kale 15, 172-3churches 18, 90, 241, see

also monasteries, mosques, synagogues

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral 185

Armenian Cathedral (Lviv) 96-7

Armenian Church (Kamyanets-Podilsky) 81-2

Assumption Church 205Bernardine Church and

Monastery 101, 90Blahoveshchensky

Cathedral 210Boryso-Hlibsky

Cathedral 203Boyim Chapel 99Cathedral of the Holy

Resurrection 124Cathedral of SS Peter

& Paul (Kamyanets-Podilsky) 81

Church of Mykola Prytysk 43

Church of St George 82Church of St Nicholas 121Church of the

Conception of

St Ann 47Church of the Nativity of

the Virgin 47Church of the Raising of

the Cross 47Church on the Rock 182Dominican Cathedral

(Lviv) 96Dominican Church

(Ternopil) 115Dormition Cathedral

(Kyiv) 45Dormition Church

(Lviv) 99Former Armenian Church

124Greek Catholic Church

142Illynsky Church 203Latin Cathedral 96Panteleymonivskaya

Church 150Pirogov Chapel 76Pokrovska Church 209Preobrazhensky

Cathedral (Dnipropetrovsk) 221

Preobrazhensky Cathedral (Odesa) 150

Refectory Church of St Antony & St Feodosy 46

Rizdva Khrystovoho Church 115

Spaska Church 207Spaso-Preobrazhensky

Cathedral 67-8, 203St Andrew’s Church

42, 11St Barbara Church 74St George’s Cathedral

100St Jehoshaphat’s

Church 82St Michael’s Church

(Pereyaslav- Khmelnytsky) 68

St Nicholas Cathedral (Chernivtsi) 138

St Nicholas’ Church (Kyiv) 45

St Nicholas Naberezhny (Kyiv) 42

St Peter’s and Paul’s Cathedral (Lutsk) 118

St Sophia’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 37, 40

St Sophia’s Church (Zhytomyr) 72

St Volodymyr’s Cathedral 36

Sub-Sarkis Church 198

Transfiguration Church (Lviv) 99-100

Transfiguration Church (Vinnytsya) 77

Trinity Church (Lutsk) 118

Trinity Gate Church (Kyiv) 45

Uspensky Cathedral (Kharkiv) 209

Uspensky Cathedral (Pochayiv) 116

Churchill, Winston 188-9, 234

Cimmerians 228cinema 226civil war 231-2classical music 250climate 16, 20-2, see also

individual regionsconcentration camps

50, 97consulates 256-7Cossack people 43, 117,

120, 160, 168, 220, 223, 230-1

costs 17credit cards 259, 261Crimea 30, 163-200, 241,

164, 183accommodation 163climate 163food 163highlights 15, 164travel seasons 163

Crimean Tatar cuisine 187Crimean Tatar people 90,

173, 174, 241, 15Crimean War 181culture 86-7, 239-44, see

also folk arts & culture, khipstery culture

currency 16, 258-9customs regulations 256cycling 243, 268

Carpathians, the 129Crimea 171, 190language 277

DDachne 194-5dangers, see safetyDanube Delta Biosphere

Reserve 14, 161, 14dervishes 169, 241Derzhprom 92Dikanka 206disabilities, travellers with

262Dnipropetrovsk 218-23, 220

dolma 187Donetsk 214-18, 216Dovbush Cliffs 129Dovbush, Oleksa 133drinks 246, see also beer,

vodka, winelanguage 274-6

driving, see car traveldriving licences 269Drohobych 113-14Dubno 121Dzharylhach 159

Eeastern Ukraine 30, 201-24,

202accommodation 201climate 201food 201highlights 202travel seasons 201

economy 227electricity 256embassies 256-7embroidery 131emergencies 17

language 276environmental issues 26-7etiquette 241Euro 2012 64, 214, 243,

see also footballEuromaidan revolution

226-7, 238European Union

Association Agreement 226-7, 238

events 20-2exchange rates 17

Ffamine 43, 233Femen movement 226,

243-4Feodosiya 197-9festivals 20-2, 242, 246,

21, see also individual regions

filigree 174films 147, 226fish restaurants 187folk arts & culture 18

architecture 48, 68, 99, 141-2

bandura 86, 250, 86dancing 86, 5, 87kobzary 250museums 46, 48, 50, 68,

99, 131music 250

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

283IN

DEX F-M

food 245-7, see also individual locations

borshch 245Crimean Tatar 187fish restaurants 187kasha 245language 274-6salo 100, 118, 246varenyky 245, 246, 247

football 64, 214, 243Foros 182Forosskiy Kant 182fortresses, see castles,

fortresses & palaces

GGagauz people 160Galicia-Volynia 230gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 257genealogy 235Gogol, Nikolai 120, 205,

206, 252Golovan, Mykola 119Gongadze, Georgiy 236Grand Canyon 190Gurzuf 191, 89

Hhang-gliding 196health 257-8

AIDS & HIV 258Chornobyl 27insurance 258services 257-8

hiking 88Crimea 171Dovbush Cliffs 129Golitsyn’s Path 194Mt Hoverla 127-8

history 228-38Balaklava 181Carpathians, the 124Cossacks 117, 160, 168Crimea 165Crimean War 181Holodomor 43Kamyanets-Podilsky 79Kyiv 33Lviv 95Odesa 146-7Sevastopol 176western Ukraine 94-5WWII 77, 169, 232-4

hitching 270Hitler, Adolf 77HIV 258

Hoholeve 206holidays 260Holocaust, the 74, 97,

169, 220Holodomor 43, 233Horodecki, Wladislaw 62Hrushevsky, Mykhailo 231Hungary 143, 265Hutsol, Anna 243-4Hutsul people 124, 131,

133-4, 135

Iicons 248immigration 264insurance

car 269travel 258

internet access 61, 258internet resources 17, 235itineraries 23-5Ivan Kupala 21, 242Ivano-Frankivsk 124-7, 126

JJewish cemeteries 73, 74,

79, 97, 133, 138Jewish museums 150, 220Jewish people 19, 75, 86,

97, see also synagoguesWWII 97

Kkambala 187Kamyanets-Podilsky

11, 79-84, 80Kaniv 69Kara-Dag Nature Reserve

88, 197, 88Karaites 168, 169kasha 245katran 187Kazantip 170kefal 187Kerch 199-200Khadzhi-Sala 175Khans’ Palace 171Kharkiv 208-14, 210

accommodation 210-12climate 201drinking 212entertainment 213food 212highlights 92shopping 213sights 209-10travel to/from 213-14travel within 214, 213

Khazars 228Kherson 159Khersones 176-7khipstery culture 61Khmelnytsky, Bohdan 40,

67, 113Khortytsya Island 223Khotyn 140Khotyn Fortress 140Kiev, see KyivKlytschko, Vitaly 227, 243Klytschko, Volodymyr 243kobzary 250Koktebel 195-6Koktebel International Jazz

Festival 22Kolomyya 11, 131-2, 132Kosach, Larysa 252Kosiv 133Kosmach 133Kotsyubinsky, Mikhailo 252Kremenets 116-17Kuchma, Leonid 236Kurkov, Andrey 252Kurortne 196-7kvas 246Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 8,

43-7, 46, 9Kyiv 28, 32-69, 34-5,

38-9, 44, 46, 49, 50accommodation 32, 53-6activities 51-2climate 32drinking 60-2entertainment 62-4festivals & events 53food 32, 56-60highlights 8, 10, 13,

34-5, 92itineraries 37shopping 64sights 33-51tourist information 64-5tours 52travel seasons 32travel to/from 65travel within 66-7, 66-7walking tours 48-9, 49

Kyiv Sea 69Kyivan Rus 229

LLake Karagol 190language 16, 59, 271, 273-7Lastochkino Gnezdo

189, 85legal matters 258lesbian travellers 257

Lipovan people 160Lisya Bukhta 196literary museums

Bulgakov Museum 42Chekhov House-Museum

183Chekhov’s Dacha 191Pushkin in Crimea

Museum 191Pushkin Museum 150Taras Shevchenko

Memorial House Museum (Kyiv) 37

Taras Shevchenko Museum (Kaniv) 69

Voloshin’s House 195literature 226, 251-2Livadia Palace 188-9Luchistoye 192lufar 187Lutsk 117-20Lviv 10, 29, 93-114, 94, 98,

103, 104-5accommodation 93,

102-8climate 93drinking 93, 110-11entertainment 111festivals & events 102food 93, 108-10highlights 10, 90, 94Jewish sites 97shopping 111sights 96-101tourist information 111-12tours 101travel seasons 93travel to/from 112-13travel within 113walking tours 102-3, 103

Lychakivske Cemetery 101

MMangup-Kale 175manty 187maps 258markets

Barabashova Market 213Bessarabsky Rynok 59Kalynivsky Market 138Kolomyya Embroidery

Market 131Kosiv Craft Market 133Petrivka Market 64

Massandra Palace 190maydan Nezalezhnosti

33, 36measures 259medical services 257-8

284

INDEX M

-N

memorials, see monuments

metro 92, 92military museums

Adzhimushkay Defence Museum 200

Arsenal Museum 101Black Sea Fleet Museum

176Cold War Museum 181-2Mikhaylovskaya Battery

177Museum of Strategic

Missile Forces 78, 92Museum of the Great

Patriotic War 48Nuclear Missile Museum

78, 92Panorama of

Sevastopol’s Defence 176

Poltava Battle Museum 205-6

War Veterans Museum 77mobile phones 16, 261Moldova 265-6monasteries 241

Ascension Monastery 68Berdychiv Castle 74Bernardine Church and

Monastery 101, 90Dervish Tekiye 169Dominican Monastery 81Florivsky Monastery

42-3Khrestovozdvyzhensky

Monastery 207Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra

8, 43-7, 46, 9Pochayiv Monastery

115-16Pokrovsky Monastery

209Spaso-Preobrazhensky

Monastery 204St Bridget’s Monastery

118St Michael’s Monastery

40-1Sviatohirsk Lavra 218Trinity Monastery 203Uspensky Monastery

(Bakhchysaray) 172, 15

Vydubytsky Monastery 51

money 16, 17, 258-9

moneychangers 259Mongols 229-30monuments

Artyom Monument 218Babyn Yar 50-1Celan Monument 138Chornobyl Monument

235Friendship of Nations

Monument 49, 19Geographical Centre of

Europe 135Glory to Miners’ Labour

214Holocaust Memorial 97Holodomor Memorial 43Liberators of Donbass

Memorial 214Orange Revolution

Monument 76-7Panorama of

Sevastopol’s Defence 176

Pushkin Statue 147Rodina Mat (Defence of

the Motherland Monument) 47-8, 92, 92

mosques 90, 241Dzhuma-Dzhami Mosque

168Kebi-Djami Mosque 165Khans’ Palace 171

motorcycle travel 269-70, see also car travel

Mt Ay-Petri 190Mt Chatyr-Dag 192Mt Demerdzhi 192Mt Hoverla 88, 127-8Mt Pip Ivan Chornohirsky

128Mukacheve 143-4multiculturalism 241Museum of Strategic

Missile Forces 78, 92museums 19, see also art

galleriesAdzhimushkay Defence

Museum 200Apteka Museum 100-1Archaeology Museum

150Arsenal Museum 101Aviation Museum 51Avtomotovelofototeleradio

Museum 76Black Sea Fleet Museum

176Bulgakov Museum 42Chekhov House-Museum

183

Chekhov’s Dacha 191Chornobyl Museum 43Cold War Museum 181-2Folk Architecture & Life

Museum 141-2Historical Museum of

Zaporizhsky Cossacks 223

Historical Treasures Museum 46-7

History Museum 220History of Odesa Jews

Museum 150Kharkiv History Museum

209Korolyov Cosmonaut

Museum 72Kotlyarevsky Museum

207Lviv History Museum

97-9Lvivske Museum of Beer

& Brewing 100Mid-Dnipro Museum of

Folk Architecture & Life 68

Mikhaylovskaya Battery 177

Museum of Bukovinian Jews 138

Museum of Ethnography, Arts & Crafts 101

Museum of Folk Architecture and Life 99

Museum of Forest Ecology 134

Museum of Hutsul Folk Art and Life (Kosiv) 133

Museum of Hutsul Folk Art (Kolomyya) 131

Museum of Jewish Heritage & Holocaust in Ukraine 220

Museum of Microminiature 46

Museum of One Street 42Museum of Political

Prisoners 114Museum of Religious

History 96Museum of Strategic

Missile Forces 78, 92Museum of the Great

Patriotic War 48Museum of the Volyn

Icon 118Museum of Ukrainian

Folk & Decorative Arts 46

National Museum (Lviv) 100

National Museum and Memorial to the Victims of Occupation 100

National Museum of Ukrainian History (Kyiv) 42

Nuclear Missile Museum 78, 92

Oleksa Dovbush Museum 133

Panorama of Sevastopol’s Defence 176

Pharmacy Museum 43Pirogov Museum 76Podillya Antiquities

Museum 81Poltava Battle Museum

205-6Poltava Museum of Local

Lore 207Pushkin in Crimea

Museum 191Pushkin Museum 150Pyrohovo Museum of

Folk Architecture 12, 48, 50, 12

Pysanky Museum 11, 131, 11

Regional Museum (Ivano-Frankivsk) 125

Regional Museum (Kremenets) 117

Regional Museum (Vinnytsya) 76

Shakhtar Museum 214Taras Shevchenko

Memorial House Museum (Kyiv) 37

Taras Shevchenko Museum (Kaniv) 69

Taurida Central Museum 165

Transcarpathian Museum of Local Lore 141

Voloshin’s House 195War Veterans Museum 77Water Museum 37

music 250-1Myrhorod 205

Nnational parks & reserves,

see also parks & gardens

Carpathian Biosphere Reserve 134

Carpathian National Nature Park 127-30

Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve 14, 161, 14

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

285IN

DEX N-T

Kara-Dag Nature Reserve 88, 197, 88

Shatsky National Nature Park 120-1

Nerubayske 158newspapers 259New Year’s Eve 22Nicholas II, Tsar 185,

189, 194Novhorod-Siversky 204Novy Svit 194Nuclear Missile Museum

78, 92

Oobservatories 128Odesa 14, 29, 145-58, 146,

148, 14accommodation 145,

152-4climate 145drinking 145, 155-6entertainment 156-7festivals & events 152food 145, 151, 154-5highlights 14, 146safety 156shopping 157sights 147-51tourist information 157tours 152travel seasons 145travel to/from 157-8travel within 158

Olesko 113open spaces 61, 157opening hours 259-60opera 250Opishnya 206Orange Revolution 76-7,

226, 236-7

Ppainting 248-9palaces, see castles,

fortresses & palacesparagliding 196parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Bandera Park 113Central Botanical

Gardens (Kyiv) 51Dendropark

Oleksandriya 68Fomin Botanical Gardens

36Gagarin Park 72Gurzuf Park 191

Korpusny Park 206Lenin Komsomol Park

214Nikitsky Botanic Gardens

190-1Shevchenko Park 209Sofiyivka Park 13,

74-5, 13Taras Shevchenko

Park 124Party of the Regions

226, 227passports 264Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky

68-9Pidkamin 116pig fat 100, 118, 246Pirogov, Nikolai 76planning

budgeting 17calendar of events 20-2Chornobyl tour 26-7internet resources 17itineraries 23-5travel seasons 16, 20-1Ukraine basics 16-17Ukraine’s regions 28-30

Ploshcha Rynok 96, 13Ploshcha Svobody 209plov 187Pochayiv 115-16Podillya 74-84Poland 112, 266Polissya 71-4politics 226-7Poltava 205-8Poltava Battlefield 205-6population 227, 239-44postal services 260Potemkin Steps 147President Yanukovych’s

residence 69public holidays 260Pushkin, Alexander 147,

150, 191, 251Pyrohovo Museum of Folk

Architecture 12, 48, 50, 12

pysanky 86, 248, 86

Qqashiq ash 187

RRabbi Nachman 75, 79racist attacks 261radio 259Rakhiv 134-6religion 90-1, 227, 241-2

reserves, see national parks & reserves

Rivne 117-21road rules 269-70rock climbing 182Romania 136, 266-7Romanovs, the, see

Nicholas II, Tsarromanticism 248-9Roosevelt, Franklin 188-9,

234Roshen Fountain 76Rotaru, Sofia 251Russia 200, 231, 267

SSacher-Masoch, Leopold

von 109safety 260-1

Chornobyl 27hitching 270road 269

salo 100, 118, 246salt mines 219sargan 187sarma 187scams 261Schulz, Bruno 113-14sculpture 248-9Sevastopol 176-80, 178Shabo 160-1Sharhorod 79Shatsky National Nature

Park 120-1Sheshory 134Sheshory (ArtPole) Festival

10, 22, 10Shevchenko, Inna 244Shevchenko, Sasha 244Shevchenko, Taras 239, 251

museums 37, 100statues 209, 86, 96, 114-15tomb 69

shopping, see individual locations, markets

Simferopol 165-8, 166Skadovsk 159skiing 88, 88

Bukovel 130Vorokhta 130

Slovakia 143, 267Sofiyivka Park 13, 74-5, 13Sokoline 190Soledar 219Soledar Salt Mine 219solo travellers 261Sorochyntsi 120southern Ukraine 29, 145-

62, 146

accommodation 145climate 145drinking 145food 145highlights 146travel seasons 145

Soviets 92, 232spas & spa towns

Myrhorod 205Truskavets 114

sports 242-3, see also football, tennis

Stalin, Josef 92, 188-9, 233-4Sudak 15, 192-4sultanka 187Sviatohirsk 218Sviatohirsk Lavra 218Swallow’s Nest 189, 85synagogues

Beis Aharon V’Yisrael Synagogue 97

Golden Rose Synagogue 97

New Synagogue (Drohobych) 113-14

Yegiya Kapay Synagogue 169

TTale of Igor’s Campaign,

The 204Taras Bulba 120, 121, 140,

205, 223, 252Taras Shevchenko 86Tatars 229-30, 241taxis 270telephone services 261-2tennis 243Ternopil 114-17Ternopil Lake 115theatre

Kyiv 53, 63Lviv 111Odesa 149, 156Sevastopol 180

theft 260-1Tikhaya Bay 197time 262

language 276tipping 259toilets 262tourist information 262tours 267

catacombs 158Chornobyl 27Soledar Salt Mine 219walking tours 48-9,

102-3train travel 265-7, 270-2

286

INDEX T-Z

Transcarpathia 140-4travel to/from Ukraine

264-7travel within Ukraine

268-72travellers cheques 259Treaty of Bila Tserkva 67trekking, see hikingtrolleybuses 168Truskavets 114Turks 229-30TV 259Tymoshenko, Yulia 33, 226,

237, 238

UUchansu Waterfall 190Ukrainian language 273-7Ukrainka, Lesia 252Uman 13, 74-5Unesco World Heritage

sites 73Carpathian Biosphere

Reserve 134Chernihiv 202-3Chernivtsi University

136-8

Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 8, 43-7, 46, 9

Lviv 95-101St Sophia’s Cathedral

(Kyiv) 37, 40Uzhhorod 140-3, 141

Vvacations 260vaccinations 257Valley of Death 181Valley of the Ghosts 192varenyky 245, 246, 247vegetarian travellers 247Velyki Sorochyntsi 206Verkhovyna 134Vinnytsya 76-9visas 16, 262-3vodka 246Volodymyr the Great 36,

49, 176, 229, 241Voloshin, Maximilian 195volunteering 263Volyn 117-21Vorokhta 130-1Vorontsovsky Palace 189Vylkovo 161-2

Vyshhorod 69

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 48-9, 102-3water 258waterfalls 134, 190weather 16, 20-2, see also

individual regionswebsites 17, 235Wehrwolf 77weights 259western Ukraine 29, 93-

121, 94accommodation 93climate 93drinking 93food 93highlights 94travel seasons 93

whirling dervishes 169, 241wildlife reserves 159, 161wine 141, 219, 246wineries 161, 185, 194, 219women in Ukraine 243women travellers 263

work 263WWII 77, 169, 232-4

YYalta 182-8, 184

accommodation 185-6drinking 187-8food 186-7sights 183-5tourist information 188travel to/from 188travel within 188

Yanukovych, President Viktor 69, 226-7, 237-8

Yaremche 128-30Yevpatoriya 168-70Yushchenko, Viktor 236-7

ZZabuzhko, Oksana 252Zaporizhsky Cossack

people 160, 168, 223Zaporizhzhya 223-4Zhdanova, Yana 244Zhovkva 113Zhytomyr 71-3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

287

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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