Beer Brewing InstructionsBritish Brown Ale1 Gallon All Grain Kit

Mental PrepBrewing beer can seem overwhelming, but it isn’t. Reading through all of these instructions seems daunting, but it doesn’t need to be. Following the instructions word for word seems necessary, but it may take away from some of the fun. What is important to remember is beer was invented by accident and has been made by unsanitary people and processes for thousands of years. The granularity of the instructions below are to help you understand the process, avoid contamination, and produce consistent results. This is supposed to be fun. We encourage drinking while doing it.

Physical PrepYou have your equipment kit and a recipe. Now what? We highly recommend a two step cleaning and sanitizing procedure. The cleaner we provide in the One Gallon Fermenting Kit called Powdered Brewers Wash (PBW) will kill most microorganisms, but you will need to rinse the PBW with water which means you could reintroduce new microorganisms. We suggest using a no-rinse sanitizer that is included in our Wine Essentials Kits and will decrease your chance of contamination. The equipment sanitized in the first section include the bucket, lid, airlock, and a coffee mug to take a sample for your hydrometer reading.1. Dissolve two teaspoons of PBW in a gallon of warm water, clean and soak your equipment being especially mindful of all the equipment that will touch your beer after it is cooled down from the boil. rinse thoroughly with clean fresh water.

Brew TimeMashing is where you mix your grain with water1. Add grain to your muslin sock and tie off. Place in .75 gallons of preheated water (150-154°F) and make sure the grain and bag is covered with water.2. Hold mash at 150°F (give or take a couple of degrees) for 60 minutes. Gently stir occasionally during the mash. Don’t let the muslin bag scorch to the bottom of your pot.

Sparging is the act of “rinsing” your grain with warm water to complete the extract of sugars, color, and flavor for your beer. 1. Pre-heat another gallon of water to 165°F.2. Remove the muslin bag from your pot and let what water you can drain from the grain. DO NOT squeeze bag.3. Have a partner slowly rinse the bag as you hold it above your pot with the gallon of 165°F water. Or, put bag in a large strainer, position over the pot and pour the water yourself. You should now have collected around 1.5 gallons of sugary water called “wort”.

Boiling is where you add your hops (included in kit) which will balance the sweetness in your final beer. Different recipes will add different hops at different times during the boil, also called a hop schedule. Once you bring you wort to a boil, start your timer and follow the hop schedule below:

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The Entire Brewing process can be broken down into four steps:

Cook It Mashing, Sparging, Boiling,

Cooling

Ferment ItPitching, Fermenting, Clearing

Bottle ItPriming, Bottling

Drink It Awesoming

IngredientsPale Malt (2-row) 1lb 10 oz Briess Cara 60L 4 ozBrown Malt 1 ozChocolate Malt 1 ozSpecial B Malt 1 oz Carapils 1 ozKent Golding Hops .33 ozYeast: Nottingham 1 pkt

TIP: Keep some of the PBW solution around, you will probably use it to clean something down the road.

TIP: The chlorine in tap water can give you off flavors. We recommend using bottled spring water.

Brew another batch of beer or branch out to something new. Find what you like, 1 gallon

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Boil60 minute

15

2: Add .10 oz Kent Golding Hops3: Add Irish Moss (optional)

1: Add .23 oz Kent Golding Hops, start boil timer

60 45 30

Boil Schedule

10: Cool quickly to below 80*, transfer to fermenter, top up to 5 gallons, airate wort, and pitch yeast.

0

5. At the end of the boil you need to cool down your wort as quickly as possible. Placing your pot in a sink full ice and water will do a nice job of this. Once the beer has cooled below 80 degrees, you can move forward.

Making AlcoholFermenting is where the magic happens. When yeast is introduced to sugar at a certain temperature range the cells grow and multiply, creating alcohol and CO2. 1. Pour your cooled wort into your sanitized fermenting bucket (do this aggressively to add as much oxygen as possible)2. Take a small sample for a hydrometer reading*3. Add yeast (included in beer kit). Just cut packet and sprinkle on top of wort. (this is called pitching)4. Shake bucket to add more oxygen5. Attach your airlock filled to mark with vodka or sanitizer solution (we don’t recommend using only water in your airlock since it can possibly flow back into your beer and contaminate it.)6. Keep in cool (between 60°F -70°F) dark place for 1-2 weeks

Siphoning greatly reduces the amount of oxygen added to your beer. Oxygen in your beer at any time after you add the yeast can lead to off flavors. This is why we siphon as much as possible instead of pour. Your auto-siphon will start the process. Just place auto-siphon in the liquid you want to transfer, pull up on the plunger and push it down (you may have to plunge twice), then just let gravity do the rest.

Secondary Fermentation is mainly for aging and clarifying. 1. Use your auto siphon and length of hose to move your beer from your bucket to your sanitized jug (this is called racking)2. You should hopefully fill the jug nearly to the top. You want as little oxygen as possible in your secondary fermenter. After another 2 weeks your beer should be nice and clear. Take another hydometer reading* to make sure it has fully fermented. You don’t want to start popping bottle caps later on.

Time To BottleCarbonation happens when additional fermentable sugars are added to your beer. There is still some yeast hiding in your beer that you cannot see. When the new sugar is added, the fermentation process happens again, but this time you will trap the CO2 produced from the yeast and it will naturally carbonate the bottles. Add too little sugar, and your beer will not fully carbonate, too much and you could potentially over-carbonate your beer and start to pop bottles. Any sugar will do, but you don’t really want to add flavor or color at this point so we recommend one ounce of corn sugar per gallon of beer for best results. However, this does equate to roughly 2 Tablespoons (low carbonation), or 3 Tablespoons (high carbonation) of either corn sugar, table sugar, or honey.1. Use your Powdered Brewers Wash to thoroughly clean your bottles, primary bucket, auto-siphon, tubing and bottle filler, and anything else that you might use to touch your beer.2. Fully dissolve your sugar in ½ cup of hot water.3. Pour sugar water solution into sanitized primary fermenting bucket.4. Sanitize your tubing and auto-siphon. Attach your tubing to the end of your auto-siphon5. Siphon your beer from your glass jug (careful not to disturb the yeast sediment at the bottom of the jug) into your bucket on top of the sugar solution (this will mix the two together).Now your beer is primed and ready for bottling.6. Place your auto-siphon in your bucket of beer, and attach the bottle filler to the other end of the hose.7. Once the siphon is started and your line and filler is primed with beer, you can fill your bottles easily.8. Cap your bottles and keep in cool (between 60°F -70°F) dark place for 2 weeks.

Drinking beer is the delicious part of making beer.1. Put bottles in refrigerator till chilled2. There will be some sediment on the bottom of the bottle due to the carbonation process. This will not hurt you, but try and pour your beer gently as to not disturb sediment and keep your beer crystal clear.3. Bring glass to mouth... oh, wait... you know this part!

TIP: Once your wort has cooled below 150 degrees it vulnerable to infection by bacteria or wild yeast. ANYTHING that touches the wort at this point needs to be sanitized or thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.

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*See the full length instructions online at DIY1G.com for information on how to take hydrometer readings and other helpful tips

TIP: The bottle filler has a valve that opens the filler when depressed. Pushing the tip of the filler to the bottom of a bottle or glass will open this valve. You will need to do this when starting your siphon while the filler is attached.

TIP: Enjoy!

Brew SpecsStyle: Northern English Brown AleOriginal Gravity: 1.055Final Gravity: 1.011IBU: 24 ABV: 5.4%Yield: 1 Gallon