Beauty Therapy Guide

7/31/2019 Beauty Therapy Guide

1/12

The Art and Scienceof Beauty TherapyA Complete Guide for Beauty Specialists

Edited by Jane Foulston, Marguerite Wynne, Fae Major


2/12

Introduction

The Art and Science of Beauty Therapy has been written to meet the NationalOccupational Standards in the UK at level 2 for beauty specialists and level 3for facial electrical treatments. These standards are reflected in the syllabusesof all the main international examination boards that award beauty qualifications ITEC, VTCT, City & Guilds, BTEC, CIDESCO, CIBTAC and many othersincluding those that offer their qualifications in Ireland, South Africa, Singapore,Hong Kong, Japan, Canada, USA and many other countries. Independentschools that award their own beauty qualifications will also find that this bookmeets their requirements to help their students become professionally qualified.

Style and Format

This book has the student in mind. It continues Holistic Therapy Books establishedmethodology of producing straightforward, accessible books for students to learn both theoryand practice in a therapy. Language is straightforward and direct, content is what is needed forstudents, the structure follows the natural contour of the learning process, illustrations showwhat the student needs to see and support the tutor s teaching and demonstrations. Thesections on Anatomy and Physiology are provided where they are needed and are illustratedclearly with the correct amount of detail required. Tutors will find that their students can learnand revise from this book with ease.


3/12

Contents

Introduction iv

1 Being professional 5

2 The anatomy and physiology of the face,

head and neck 40

3 Skin and eye treatments 94

4 Using make-up 138

5 Manicure and pedicure 166

6 Depilation 206

7 Cosmetic science 232

8 The science of electrical treatments 250

9 Index 295


4/12

T H E A R T A N D S C I E N C E O F B E A U T Y T H E R A P Y

the correct eyebrow width for the client the shape of the clients face and eyes the age of the client the clients own preference.

1. Determining the correct eyebrow widthYou can determine the correct width for the clientseyebrows by using an orange wood stick to measurewhere the eyebrow should start and finish:

a. Place an orange wood stick in a straight line fromthe side of the nose to the inner corner of the eye.The eyebrow should not extend beyond this line.Tweeze any stray hairs out.

b. Place an orange wood stick to make a vertical linethrough the centre of the pupil when the client is

looking straight ahead. This should form the naturalhigh point of the arch of the eyebrow.

2. Place an orangewood stick so that it makes adiagonal line from the nose across to the outercorner of the clients eye. The eyebrow shouldnot extend beyond this point. Tweeze any strayhairs out.

The way to measure is illustrated below.

1. Determining the correct eyebrow shapeto suit the clients age

For older clients, be aware that heavy, thick eyebrowscan be ageing, whilst thin eyebrows can give a verysevere appearance to the face.

2. Determining the clients own preferenceIt is vital that, as with any other service provided to aclient, you carefully consult with them so that, together,you can decide on the final eyebrow shape inaccordance with their preferences, but also taking intoaccount the natural shape of the brow.

Choosing the appropriate eyebrow shapeBefore you start shaping the eyebrow, you will need to consider:

1. Round/naturally shapedFace and eye shapes

2. An arched shapeFace and eye shapes

3. StraightFace and eye shapes

4. AngularFace and eye shapes

2. Determining the correct eyebrow shape to suit the clients eye shape and face shape

Eyebrows can be:

(a) (c)(b)


5/12

C H A P T E R 3 : S K I N A N D E Y E T R E A T M E N T S

KEY POINTThere are two different kinds of tweezers that are used for eyebrow shaping:

1. Manual Tweezers

These are used to remove the bulk of the hairs and for fine workwhen defining the eyebrow shape.

2. Automatic tweezers

These are not often used in thesalon. They have a spring-loadedaction and are used to removethe bulk of excess hair.

KEY POINT

The tweezers you intend to use must be sterilised before the treatment commences. Sterilisation may havebeen carried out in the autoclave, bead steriliser or by soaking in a sterilising solution. If you do not usesterilised tweezers you run the risk of cross infection.

Preparing the client for eyebrow shapingThe steps that should follow when preparing a clientfor an eyebrow shaping treatment are:

1. Check for contraindications.

2. Consult with the client to determine what they

want to achieve.

3. Agree with the client the final eyebrowshape and appearance.

4. Secure the clients hair out of the way, using aheadband or turban.

5. Ask the client to remove earrings, hair combs andpins, spectacles, or contact lenses (if worn).

6. Protect the client with towels or a cape, makingsure that the clients clothes are completelycovered.

7. Seat the client comfortably on a couch or chair.

8. Check that the

client is at easeand ready for thetreatmentto begin.

Eyebrow shaping carrying out the treatment1. Use a suitable cleanser to remove all traces of face

and eye make-up. Wipe over with sanitiser.

2. Use an orange stick to determine the appropriatewidth of the eyebrows.

3. Check again with the client that you bothunderstand and agree the shaping work that is to becarried out.

4. Give the client a hand mirror so that they can checkprogress whenever they choose.


6/12


EyelinerEyeliner is used to define the shape of theeye. Harder lines are used for fashionable

effects, while softer lines are preferable fornatural looks and more mature clients. Youcan choose eye liner colour to:

match the mascara, or

match the eye colour, or

match or accentuate the eye shadow.

Eyeliner comes in several forms.

Liquid gum or oil based in water; applied with asoft brush or tipped applicator

Cakes or blocks of water colour powder thisis now used less often, but may be wetted orapplied with a damp brush, and the water contentvaried to create a harder or softer line.

Crayon or pencil wax or oil stick; can beblended like eye shadow or sharpened to producea hard line

Kohl (kajal) soft, black, wax pencil; applied toinner rims of the eye and/or the eyelid.

ContraindicationsThe usual contraindications to using skin care productsapply (see Topic 3 above), but add to these, contactlenses and/or sore eyes. It is also advisable not to useeyeliner below the eyes if the skin is crepey.

Applying eyeliner Use sanitised or disposable brushes or sharpened

pencils.

Ask your client to close her eyes when applyingeyeliner to upper lids, and to look away from theapplicator when applying it to the lower lids.

Keep your hand steady you can rest it gently ona tissue on your clients face if necessary.

Do not press down on the eye.

Do not lean on the client. Lift the skin from below the brow, to place the line

as close to the lashes as possible (unless you aredrawing above the lash line to give an enlargingeffect).

Apply eyeliner from the centre to the outer edges.

Soften the line with a sponge or cotton bud ifpreferred.

Check that thickness and shaper are balanced onboth eyes.


7/12

C H A P T E R 4 : U S I N G M A K E - U P

MascaraMascara is used to thicken, colour andlengthen eyelashes to enhance the shape

and colour of the eyes. It comes in variouscolours to match the darkest colours of theeye shadow or eyeliner used, or to matchfalse eyelashes or, for a natural look, tocomplement hair colour. Ideally, itshould also be:

long lasting

run proof

hypoallergenic

easy to apply.There are several types of mascara.

Block/cake this is pigmented and wax based. Itis applied with a flat, wet brush, but its use isbecoming less common

Cream easy to apply and remove, but not runproof or waterproof, so rarely used in salons

Liquid resin based with pigments in water (oralcohol and water) with oil to soften; use with adisposable brush; can have special lash-building

features; generally easy to remove

ContraindicationsIn addition to general contraindications and those thatspecifically apply to products used in the eye area,seeTopic 3 above, mascara is contraindicated for thelower lashes if the skin below the eyes is flaky or

crepey. In addition, do not use alcohol-based mascaraor mascara with filaments on clients who use contactlenses.

Applying mascara Use disposable spiral brushes or a disinfected flat

brush (for block mascara).

Ask your client to look down and relax the uppereyelids when applying mascara to upper lashes,and to look up and away from the brush whenapplying mascara to lower lashes.

Lift the skin of the eyelids from below the brow, toprevent mascara marking eye make-up.

Apply mascara first downwards over the upperlashes, then upwards underneath the lashes tomake sure every part is covered.

Place a tissue under the lower lashes to protectthe skin.

Build up the mascara in fine layers, allowingan interval for each to dry in between, to preventclogging.

If required, separate lashes afterwards with a lashor brow comb


8/12


Nail buffingNail buffing can be used instead ofenamelling, to give a natural, polished look, or

as part of the preparation for enamelling. Italso concludes a manicure for a male client.

Nail buffing:

improves the appearance of nails

smoothes out superficial ridges

stimulates circulation

removes stains from the nail plate.

Nail buffing technique1. Remove paste from its container using an orangewood stick, then replace top on container.

2. Apply a pin-head amount of buffing pasteto the centre of each nail.

3. Using the buffer, buff the nail in one direction only from the matrix to the free edge the direction inwhich the nail cells grow, to encourage smoothnessof the nail plate.

4. Use regular, rhythmical movements;

do not allow the paste to touch the skin tissue.

Nail enamellingIf a nail strengthener is used, apply thisbefore applying the base coat.

The base coat:

protects the nail from staining by dark enamels

should be appropriate for the condition of the nail,eg strong, fragile or ridged

gives a smooth surface for enamelling.

1. Apply the base coat to each nail using three evenstrokes, brushing from the cuticle to the nail tip.

2. Using an orange wood stick or cotton wool buddipped in nail enamel remover, immediately remove

any base coat that gets on to the cuticle or skin.

Nail enamelsThere are two types of nail enamel:

Cream always apply a top coat

Frosted/pearl top coat not necessary.

Your client will have chosen the type and colour of nailenamel before the start of the manicure.

The manicure treatment should take a maximum

of 30 minutes.


9/12

C H A P T E R 5 : M A N I C U R E A N D P E D I C U R E

Applying nail enamel1. Apply the coloured enamel in three strokes per nail.

2. Apply two coats for cream enamels and seal with

one coat of top coat. Three coats must be appliedfor frosted enamels and no top coat shouldbe applied.

3. Apply thinly, to allow each coat to dry more quicklyand prevent flaking or chipping.

4. Leave a hairline gap around the nail wall.

5. Ensure no enamel touches the cuticle or skin tissue.If it does, remove it immediately with an orangewood stick or cotton bud dipped in nailenamel remover.

Top coat and drying sprayIf a top coat is required, apply in three strokes per nail.The benefits of using a top coat are that it:

seals the enamel

gives extra shine

prevents chipping

increases longevity of the enamel.

A quick drying spray can be used to set the surface of

the nail. Always spray away from the client and fromfurniture. Remember that the underlying layers ofenamel will still be soft and that quick dry tends to drythe surface enamel too quickly resulting inpremature chipping.


10/12


Preparing for galvan-ic treatments1. Discuss the treatment beforehand with your client:

check for contraindications

explain the sequence of the treatment

describe to the client the sensations that theymay experience, such as a metallic taste if theyhave metallic fillings (see Specificcontraindications above), or a slight tingling inthe skin. Ask your client to tell you if theyexperience these sensations. You can use thisinformation together with careful visual

observation to judge duration and intensity oftreatment and the point at which to turn thecurrent down. In the case of galvanism,providing the client can feel the prickle of thecurrent you can be assured that the machine isworking and the current is flowing thereforethere is no reason to increase the intensity anyfurther. This usually happens at a maximum of12 amperes.

explain that if they feel uncomfortable, theyshould tell you and you will then reduce the

amperage (intensity) or stop the treatment. Thetreatment should cause only gentle skinstimulation.

2. Test your client for skin sensitivity using the tactilesensitivity test (see page 000 above).

3. Ask your client to remove all jewellery and anyother metal accessories worn, eg hair clips, andremove any of your own.

4. Check all the electrical equipment.

5. Make sure your client is lying down comfortablyand the area of the skin to be treated is thoroughlycleansed and free of oil

6. Apply the necessary gel or cream (see below).

The electrodesThe active or working electrode, attached tothe galvanic machine, is the one you use to

perform the treatment. There are severaltypes of active electrodes:

metal rollers

metal ball electrodes usually used fordesincrustation

tweezers or forceps

rod with disc applicator heads

The passive or indifferent electrode, also attached tothe galvanic machine, completes the circuit and is held

by your client or placed on their body, generally behindtheir shoulder or strapped to their arm. This electrodeis covered in a pre-dampened viscose sponge andshould remain in contact with your clients body untilthe current is switched off.


11/12

C H A P T E R 8 : T H E S C I E N C E O F E L E C T R I C A L T R E A T M E N T S

Using the electrodesHow you use the electrodes will depend upon the therapy you are giving

Desincrustation Move the active electrode over the face in small,

smooth, circular movements.

Apply with a firm, even pressure.

Turn the current up slowly according to the amountof resistance in different parts of the face; forinstance, lower the intensity of the current whenworking on the bony areas.

Turn the current down slowly at the end of thetreatment.

Ensure that the electrode is kept moving andremains in contact with the clients skin until thecurrent has been zeroed.

Iontophoresis Move the active rollers over the face in long even

stokes ensuring they do not touch each other

Apply with a firm, even pressure.

Turn the current up slowly according to the amountof resistance in different parts of the face; forinstance, lower the intensity of the current whenworking on the bony areas.

Turn the current down slowly at the end of thetreatment.

Ensure that the electrode is kept moving andremains in contact with the clients skin until thecurrent has been zeroed.

The desincrustation treatmentDesincrustination is normally applied as a deep-cleansing treatment,such as after a facial steam.

1. Moisten the skin well and lightly apply a negativelycharged (always follow manufactures instruction)desincrustation gel onto the skin

2. Apply the electrode to the skin of the cheek andswitch the machine on, increasing the intensityslowly. Allow about 30 seconds for the resistanceof oily, congested skin to be overcome.

3. Use the electrodes as described above. Thistreatment should work well even on very low

amperage, up to 0.6 milliamps (mA). As thegalvanic current works by a process of attraction

to its opposite pole, working from positive tonegative, there is no need to use high intensity.

4. Timing should be about 3 to 10 minutesdepending upon the condition of the skin.

5. Ensure that the skin remains moist to allow thegalvanic current to work and avoid skin irritation.

6. Conclude the treatment by slowly reducing theintensity to zero, removing the electrodes andswitching the machine off.

7. After treatment, wipe off any remainingdesincrustation gel with cotton wool or sponges,until the skin looks clean and gently stimulatedand all traces of product are removed.

8. Follow with any further treatments, such as manualextraction or removal of comedones by vacuumsuction

9. Clean the electrodes with sanitising fluidimmediately after use.


12/12

Beauty Therapy Guide

Documents

Transcript of Beauty Therapy Guide