Sheffield Park in East Sussex is considered to be one of the very

best woodland gardens in Britain. Lorraine Harrison took an

autumn stroll through the grounds to learn its history and secrets.

HEFFIELD PARK GARDEN isundoubtedly among the finest gardens in Sussex and is well worth a visit in any season.

However, it is in the autumn that thecolours at Sheffield Park transform it into something even more special.On a still early autumn morning,a cloudless blue sky is the perfectcounterpoint to the rich russets, goldsand reds evident at every turn.Takinga leisurely stroll through the grounds,a balanced composition of colour andform, light and shade and mostespecially of water and land meetsyour eyes wherever you look.

The history of the site dates back tothe Domesday Book, when the name‘Sheffield’ signified a ‘sheep clearing’.The same tome records that there was

once a watermill on the site and thatlocal rents were paid in eels ratherthan money! In the past, the RiverOuse frequently flooded the lowerarea of the valley.Today the gardencovers an impressive 120 acres (49hectares), of which almost a third iswater. Famous historical charactersassociated with the estate includeRobert, Count of Mortain, who washalf-brother to William theConqueror, and Thomas Howard, 3rdDuke of Norfolk, who in 1538 washost to Henry VIII here. From 1769 to1909 the estate was home to the Earlsof Sheffield, with each subsequentgeneration implementing changes andimprovements. John Baker Holyroyd,the 1st Earl, commissioned therebuilding of the house by James Wyatt

AUTUMNBEAUTY

SAbove left The elegant‘Gothick’ façade ofSheffield Park House,remodelled in the latterpart of the 18th century,reflected in the waters of the Ten-Foot Pond.

Above right The fiery glow of an Enkianthuscampanulatus.

Right The colours ofautumn are rivalled atother times of the year bythe striking spring bloomsof rhododendrons andazaleas, while colourfulwater-lilies cover theponds in summer.

Far right Leaves of Acerpalmatum atropurpureumsilhouetted against thetranquil waters of theMiddle Lake.

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SHEFFIELD PARK

in the then fashionable ‘Gothick’ styleand called in the famous landscapedesigners Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown,and later Humphry Repton, toimprove the grounds.

Speculation surrounds exactly whatimprovements Brown made, as littledocumentation survives.The NationalTrust’s guide book to the gardensuggests that his work primarilyinvolved the felling and clearing ofovergrown woodland, an opening outthe landscape, rather than the plantingof new specimens.This was doubtlessnecessary as the site, just south ofAshdown Forest, is particularlypropitious for growing trees. Reptonwas later to comment ‘Such is thepower of vegetation at Sheffield Place,that every berry soon becomes a bush,and every bush a tree.’ Repton’s workseems to have been confined to theareas closest to the house, including the creation of small lakes.The mainstructure of what we see in the gardentoday was laid out by the 3rd Earl inthe 19th century. He created anarboretum of exotic and native conifersand introduced many rhododendrons,azaleas and acers, the latter being attheir breathtaking best in autumn.

Some of this extravagant spendingon the grounds at Sheffield Parkundoubtedly contributed to the direstate of the 3rd Earl’s financial affairson his death in 1909.The gods ofhorticultural largesse continued toshine on Sheffield Park, however; thistime in the shape of Arthur GilstrapSoames (1854–1934).

Soames first became enchanted withthe house and grounds in 1889, whilestaying nearby, and asked for the firstoption to purchase the estate should itever be sold. Soames was also one ofthe late Earl’s chief creditors, thusplacing him in a strong negotiating

position, and the sale was completedin 1910.As a successful Lincolnshirebrewer Soames, fortunately for thegarden, had deep pockets and for thenext 40 years he lavished time, moneyand attention on Sheffield Park. Initiallythousands of cartloads of loam wereimported onto the site to improve thegrowing conditions.A massive quantityof trees of bewildering variety wasplanted. Many were of North Americanorigin, such as the Tupelo Gum andScarlet American Oak, and these nowaccount for the spectacular range ofcolours in autumn.This palette wasfurther added to by Soames’s massplanting of autumn gentians. Conifers,cypresses and Japanese maples were alsoplanted in abundance. But Soames’slove of roses and rhododendronsrivalled even his love of trees. Heplanted rhododendrons in carefullyorchestrated clumps around the lakes,while Banksian roses were encouragedto scramble over the walls of the house.Throughout his years at Sheffield Park,Soames frequently opened the gardento local people and it understandablyproved a popular attraction.

Somewhat unexpectedly, at the ageof 65, Soames married for the firsttime. His bride was Agnes Helen Peel,granddaughter of the 19th-century

prime minister, and they had two sons.He was in his 80th year when he died.Agnes remained at Sheffield Park forthe rest of her life.The Second WorldWar was a turbulent time for the Parkas it became the headquarters of aCanadian Armoured Division and thena Prisoner of War camp, with Nissenhuts on the once-immaculate lawns.In 1949 Arthur’s nephew, CaptainGranville Soames, took over therunning of the garden and set rightmuch of the chaos after the war.

Changing economic conditionsforced the sale of Sheffield Park in1953.The estate was split into lots,with the house and garden soldseparately.Although converted intoapartments and discreetly fenced fromthe Park, the house still forms anelegant backdrop to the garden, itsreflection mirrored in the First Lake.Thankfully, the National Trustacquired the garden and continues todevelop and tend it with its usualexpertise and sensitivity, and itsownership ensures that the garden is still open to the public today.

For more information on visiting SheffieldPark Garden, telephone 01825 790231or visit the National Trust websitewww.nationaltrust.org.uk

Top left Vast expanses of water are as much a feature of thegardens as the trees and shrubs, providing beautiful mirrorimages of the scenes above.

Bottom left A visitor pauses to admire the view from the Top Bridge, built for the 3rd Earl between 1882 and 1885.

Bottom right The fallen leaves of this group of Acers create a stunning carpet of colour.

Right An evocative view of the house across the water, in the fading light of an October day.

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