Beaches .... an islands treasure

AN ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDE TO THE RECREATIONAL BEACHES OF THE NORTH IRISH COAST by Coleraine Borough Council

CREATING A BETTER BOROUGH THROUGH EDUCATION

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INTRODUCTION

Add to the enjoyment of your visit to the north coast by discoveringsome of the hidden treasures of our beautiful sandy beaches anddunes. This unique Guide is not only designed to introduce theamateur naturalist and the curious beachcomber to the basic ecologyof the beach habitat but to instil in everyone a greater appreciationfor this colourful seascape.

Although by no means a comprehensive description of beach habitat, ‘An Island’s Treasure’ provides public information for all of the northcoast’s accessible recreational beaches and dunes betweenMagilligan Point and Fair Head, answers a number of frequentlyasked questions and offers a useful field guide to most of the nativeshells, birds and plants of this diverse coastline.

The following beaches and dunes are featured: Downhill,Castlerock, Millstrand (Portrush), Curran Strand & Whiterocks(Portrush) and Portballintrae (Coleraine Borough Council), Benone(Limavady BC), Ballycastle and Runkerry (Moyle DC), PortstewartStrand and Whitepark Bay (National Trust). Magilligan Point is also featured.

Be sure to pop this ‘treasure’ into your beach bag and impress yourfriends with your newly found knowledge.

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CONTENTS

Introduction

Beach by Beach

Map

Some Questions Answered

Beach Litter

Wildlife and Safety

What’s that Shell

What’s that Bird

What’s that Plant

Treasure

Contacts

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‘An Island’s Treasure’ was composed by JimAllen who is part of the Environmental Servicesteam in Coleraine Borough Council’s TechnicalService’s Department and a member of theCouncil’s Coastal Management Committee.

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BEACH BY BEACH - MAGILLIGAN

Magilligan forms the western third ofan 11km (7 mile) long unbroken plainof sand stretching from the mouth ofLough Foyle to the foot of MussendenTemple. Magilligan’s beach and dunesystem is one of the most studiedcoastal landforms in the region andfrom Point to Temple is protected asan Area of Special Scientific Interest(ASSI) and Special Area ofConservation (SAC).

Access: From Point Road (B202) andadjacent to Ferry Terminal. Much ofthe beach to the east of the Point isunder the control of the MOD. Redflags mark off the areas of restrictedaccess. Pedestrian only.

Note: Rich diversity of shells.Abundant life beneath the surfaceof sand. Bathing inadvisable.

Our excursion of the north coast’s recreational beaches begins at Magilligan Point on the Foyle estuaryand ends at Ballycastle, close to Fair Head at the northern entrance to the Irish Sea. (See the centrefoldmap for beach locations).

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View over Magilligan Point and Foyle estuary towards the west and Innishowen

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BENONE

Managed by Limavady BoroughCouncil, Benone Strand is a verypopular beach with a wide range ofbeach activities from kite flying to jetskiing. Part of the dune system to theeast of the strand is an Ulster WildlifeTrust Nature Reserve (the Umbra).

Access: Via Benone Tourist Complex(caravan park, outdoor pool and golf)off A2. Also under railway line atDownhill and across Umbra Burn

(care needed). Cars permitted (excludingquad bikes and scramblers).

Note: The area is enhanced by thespectacular wooded cliffs to the south which form part of the ancientcoastline and is now home to many wild birds. Watch out for the occasional hang glider and numerous waterfalls.

The Council Beach Lifeguards andBeach Wardens (July – August).

kitecrew.com

M.H.

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Benone beach looking west towards Magilligan Point

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Mussel J.A.

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DOWNHILL BEACH

Owned and managed by ColeraineBorough Council, Downhill isseparated from Benone by the Umbraburn where it enters the sea (alsoforms part of the boundary betweenthe two Councils). After White ParkBay, Downhill is probably one of themost photographed beaches on thenorth coast because of the famousMussenden Temple and has featuredin many television and film dramas.Both Downhill and Benone arepopular with sea anglers who runa number of annual competitions.

Access: From under railway line atDownhill and from Benone across the

Umbra burn. (difficult in high tidesand heavy rainfall). Cars permitted(excluding quad bikes and scramblers).Limavady PSNI patrol both beachesduring the visitor season.

Note: The beach is backed by narrowand fragmented dunes and part of theColeraine to Derry railway line whichdisappears into the Downhill cliffsunder Mussenden Temple.

Beach Guards (July-August).

Sea Rocket

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Downhill beach from Mussenden Temple looking west towards Benone and Magilligan

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CASTLEROCK

Castlerock is a 1 km (0.7 mile) longstretch of beach between the seacliffs of Downhill to the west and theLower R. Bann estuary known as theBarmouth to the east. Managed byColeraine Borough Council, Castlerockbeach backs on to the tranquil resortof Castlerock. The dunes to the eastof the entrance are home toCastlerock golf club and a privatecaravan park. The dunes extend backupstream of the Bann estuary toGrangemore (some of the oldest datedsand dunes in Ireland) and a NationalTrust bird sanctuary.

Access: From Castlerock town. Carspermitted. Limited access withindunes. Walkers and anglers can walkout along the concrete pier of theBarmouth (inadvisable in high windsand breaking sea).

Note: Watch out for appearance ofsmall harbour porpoises or sealsfeeding in the estuary at theBarmouth.

No Beach Guards.

The Barmouth. Lower River Bann entering the sea between Castlerock and Portstewart

Oyster catchers at Bann Estuary M.H.

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Tower shells N.McD

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Cold water at Castlerock Beach

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Wave riders at Portstewart

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PORTSTEWART

“Portstewart Strand is a magnificent3 km (1.5 mile) long, gently shelvingsandy beach and dune systemowned and managed by theNational Trust since 1981. Thebeach is bordered to the west andsouth by the Lower R. Bann, and tothe east by Portstewart itself.

The Strand attracts up to 180,000visitors per year. All activitiesincluding water sports, are zoned. In2000, the 200 acre dune system atPortstewart was included in theBann Estuary ASSI, for the rare andfragile habitats/wildlife that itsupports. In particular many speciesof butterflies and orchids including

the rare bee orchid have beenrecorded, and can be viewed fromthe waymarked trails”.

Barry Crawford, PropertyManager National Trust.

Access: Cars and pedestrians fromStrand Head Road past Golf Club.Pedestrians only from Port Path fromTown. Charge for cars in a zonedsection March-October. Part of thedunes are owned by Portstewart GolfClub and access is restricted. Walkersand anglers can walk out along theconcrete pier of the Barmouth(inadvisable in high winds andbreaking sea).

Note: With the introduction of seabuckthorn to the dunes 150 yearsago, the ecology was altereddramatically. The thorny shrubthreatened to overrun the dunes butproactive conservation managementhas helped prevent this. In the pastfew years other plants are competingwith the buckthorn to open up thedense thicket to badgers (rememberthey and their setts are protected).Watch out for the occasional foxhunting for rabbits and small birds.

National Trust staff present (May – October).

M.H.

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Portstewart Strand looking south featuring golf links - Bann estuary on horizon N. McD

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Limpet on kelp

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WEST BAY (MILLSTRAND) PORTRUSH

Millstrand, also known as the WestBay, is the smaller of Portrush’s twobeaches and popular with surfersand bathers alike. It’s also perhapsthe least natural of all the northcoast beaches, with a large concretepromenade encircling the bayseparating the beach from its dunes.West Bay is a geological ASSI,because of buried peat deposits andancient sands beneath the presentbeach which provides information

on the landscape evolution of thiscoastline.

Venue for the famous Portrush Raft Race, the beach is made all the more popular because of itseasy access to and from the resortand to the large and busy Portrushharbour. During summer months a Council Beach Guard is stationedat the Harbour/north end of the beach.

Access: Access all along thepromenade and for pedestrians only.

Note: Watch how the waves behavearound the middle of the beach atCastle Erin. A large part of Portrush isbuilt upon a massive dune field whichconnects West Bay with the largereast strand and Whiterocks.

Council Beach Guards (July-August). Stationed atharbour/north end of beach.

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View from Castle Erin, looking north towards Portrush Harbour and Ramore Head

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EAST STRAND (CURRAN STRAND) PORTRUSH

Stretching out from the east side ofthe Portrush peninsula towards theWhiterocks and the famousCauseway Coast, is the beautiful 4km(2mile) long Curran Strand. Bathing isperhaps more popular and safer at thetown end of the beach due toshelving sand and sand bars aroundCurran Point (midway along). CurranPoint is a seaward build up of sandresulting from the shelter afforded bythe chain of the Skerry Islands

(meaning sea rocks). The oncomingwaves wrap themselves around theSkerries and approach the shore fromthe east and west at enough of anangle to drive the sand towards thecentre of the beach and into a point.

The seaward dunes are a littlefragmented and eroded but most ofthe 360 acre dune system is home toboth Rathmore and Royal PortrushGolf Clubs.

Access: Again backed for part of theway by a concrete promenade thebeach is easily accessible. No vehiclespermitted on beach. Nearby freeparking (with height barrier). Accessto dunes is restricted.

Note: A visit to the nearby Arcadiacomplex provides a worthy view ofthe strand.

Council Beach Guard (July& August). Stationed at thetown/west end of the beach.

Burnet Moth M.H.

Elliptical trough shell J.A.

Whiterocks beach looking west towards Portrush and Curran Point C.B.C.

Curran Strand looking seaward towards the Skerries

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WHITEROCKS

Hidden from Portrush town by CurranPoint, the Whiterocks beach formsthe eastern end of the largerCurran/East Strand but because of itsbeautiful chalk cliffs (geologicalASSI), it takes on a very differentcharacter from others along the coast.The waves at the Whiterocks tend tobe larger and stronger making it verypopular with board, body and kayaksurfers. Much care is needed inbathing in this area due to strong ripsand shelving sand (see Council’sbeach safety leaflet).

The various small caves and archesin the chalk cliffs are worth exploringbut only at low tide (if in doubt, donot take risks).

Access: From Curran Strand andsmall free car park (with heightbarriers) off the A2 Dunluce Road.No vehicles permitted on beach.

Note: Watch out for harbourporpoises occasionally seen close tothe beach. The very hard and shinyflint rock embedded in the chalk cliffs

was mined by Mesolithic people(Middle Stone Age hunter-gatherers)between 6,000 – 9,000 years agoregarded at the first settlers inIreland.

Council Beach Guards (July& August).

Stranded Risso’s Dolphin ‘North Coast’ J.A.

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View towards the west over Whiterocks beach, Royal Portrush golf links and Portrush Town

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PORTBALLINTRAE BAY

The landing place (port) at the town(baile/bally) on the strand (tra/trae)is an apt description of beautifulPortBallintrae Bay. The little horseshoe shaped embayment with itsharbour is surrounded by the smallvillage of Portballintrae. The beachhas a history of sediment loss andmuch of what we see today hasbeen imported by Coleraine BoroughCouncil who also constructed aseries of wooden groynes to helpentrap sand.

Access: Steps central to the bayopposite Bayview Hotel. Pedestrianonly.

Note: Part of the bay to the east isa geological ASSI. Good for shellcollecting

No Beach Guards.

Kayaking off Runkerry Point C.B.C. Dried Kelp Stalks J.A.

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Portballintrae Bay looking north east, featuring harbour

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RUNKERRY

Also referred to as Bushfoot strand,Runkerry is also a geological ASSIand one of the most exciting beachsystems in Ireland with a combinationof very strong waves, attractive sceneryand natural history. Under the control ofMoyle District Council, the short beachextends from the mouth of the RiverBush towards Runkerry House and thefamous Giants Causeway. Popular withsurfers, this beach is also noted for it’sstrong rip currents.

Access: Across footbridge spanningR. Bush from Portballintrae car park.Also from Causeway via footpath fromStation car park. No vehicular access.

Note: Peaty-red colouring of water fromR Bush. See the huge boulder-clay and gravel frame bed on which the dunes sit (evidence ofIreland’s glacial history).

No Beach Guards. Strong rips andshelving. Bathing inadvisable.Harebells M.H.

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Runkerry Strand looking north east featuring River BushNote: Lissanduff Iron Age ring fort in foreground at Portballintrae

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WHITE PARK BAY

“Owned and managed by theNational Trust since 1938,Whitepark Bay is one of NorthAntrim’s most spectacular stretchesof coastline with it’s sand dunesbacking onto high sea cliffssurrounding a sandy white bay. It isalso a Geological and BiologicalArea of Special Scientific Interest.Through a carefully monitoredcombination of grazing and scrubcontrol the National Trust is helpingto enhance and protect thebiodiversity of the beach and dune system.

The small car park and paths downto the bay are also maintained bythe National Trust for public access.”

Billy Reid, Manager North AntrimNational Trust.

Access: Path from free National Trustcar park off A2 after turn off for PortBradden. Also by foot from Ballintoyharbour. No vehicle access.

Note: Listen out for squeaky sand asyou walk on it. Keep a keen eye forfossils in limestone and chalk.

No Beach Guards. Strong rips andshelving. Bathing inadvisable.

Shore crab M.H.

Early p

urple orchid

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White Park Bay looking east towards Ballintoy harbour

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BALLYCASTLE

In the dramatic setting between thetown and the towering Fair head,Ballycastle beach looks straight outacross Rathlin Sound with its strongtides to Rathlin Island. Managed byMoyle District Council, the beach hasa mixture of coarser sand and pebbleswith narrow and fragmented dunes.

Access: From town end and fromminor coast road off A2 toCushendun. No vehicles.

Note: Good variety of shells androunded pebbles.

No Beach Guards. Watch forshelving and rips. Bathingwith care.

Marram Grass J.A.

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Periwin

kle N.M

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Ballycastle beach looking East towards Fair Head

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Magilligan Benone Downhill Castlerock Portstewart W. Bay Millstrand E. Strand Curran Strand Portballintrae Bay Runkerry S

rry Strand White Park Bay Ballycastle Beach

BEACHES OF THE NORTH IRISH COAST

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SOME QUESTIONS ANSWERED

has been deposited on shore by thesea over many years in the form ofhuge ‘ramps’ of fine sediment that wecall beaches. In its simplest form,beach sand is composed of a mixtureof rock, minerals and shells whichhave been pummelled, rolled andground by the powerful combinationof water (including ice) and wind.

FINE v. COARSEJust how fine or coarse beach sand is,is down to the amount of force beingexerted upon it by the sea and wind.Exposed to the stormy and powerfulNorth Atlantic Ocean, north coastbeaches are finer than the coarsersands of the more sheltered easternseaboard, which faces the lessenergetic Irish Sea. Listen to the noisethe waves make on the coarse sandsat Ballycastle and hear your feetsqueak on the finer sands of WhitePark bay.

ROCKSJust what elements (minerals etc) arefound in sand is largely down to thegeology of the region. Typicallymarine sands contain varying

amounts of silica, quartz and calciumcarbonate along with a range of otherminerals. Much of our marine sandscome from rocks that have beeneroded and crushed by powerful icesheets and glaciers that once coveredup to 75% of Ireland and northernEurope thousands of years ago. Whenthe huge ice sheets began to meltthey released millions of tonnes ofmixed eroded rock and mineralswhich were carried in great rivers ofmelt water. Some of this vast quantityof pulverised materials was depositedinland and around the coast whilesome made it to the sea only to befurther broken down by the wavesand finally dumped back on shore tobe further rolled and ground by dailywave activity and wind.

Beachcomber’s tip: Using either amagnifying glass or the lens from a35mm camera,study a sample of sandon a white surface and see if you canseparate out the various grain-types(see how small they are and trycounting them). See if you can pickout bits of shells.

Answers to some questions aboutthe beach environment that youwould wish somebody else wouldask in case you’d appear silly butwould really, really love to know.

SAND GETS EVERYWHEREAlthough we are an island nation,much of our knowledge of the seaand the shore has been forgotten.Here are some typical questions askedby beach visitors.

Q. WHAT IS SAND MADE OF?

SEDIMENTMarine sand is actually classed as acoarse, very nutrient-poor soil (grainsize between 0.06 mm – 2.0 mm) that

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the elements, providing a rich bank ofmineral-rich sediment. Because therock type of the north coast ispredominantly dark basalt there is astrong grey-black tone to the sandcolour. As an igneous rock (volcanic inorigin) basalt contains a mineral calledmagnetite from the earth’s core whichis magnetic. Therefore part of thenorth coast’s sands are also magnetic(see Beachcomber’s tip). Largedeposits of black magnetite mineralon the beach, especially after stormscan often give the impression that it isstained with oil (see p.35).

Beachcomber’s tip: Take a sampleof blackened sand, place it on a pieceof paper, allow it to dry in the sunand then use a magnet beneath thepaper to separate out the magnetite.

Q. WHY DOES SAND VARY IN COLOUR FROM BEACH TO BEACH?

REFLECTIONSNorth coast sands are subtle versionsof a very pale whitish-yellow, stainedblack in parts (see later). Usually themore quartz, the paler the sand. Onsunny days there is a strong glare offthe sand because it is being reflectedin the trillions of tiny quartz grains.Some beaches are slightly darkersimply because of differences in rockand mineral types. Rivers and loughsfeed into the sea daily payloads of soiland other organic matter which iswashed and sorted by the sea beforebeing deposited on shore by the tide.

MAGNETIC SANDRocks are continually being eroded by

Q. HOW DEEP IS THE SAND?

BARSSand depth varies from beach tobeach. North coast sands can beseveral metres deep with someexceptions, where it is little more thana thin coating. Every winterRunkerry near PortBallintrae,appears to lose its sand leavingnothing but boulders where oncethere was a beach. This is due toannual storms pulling the sandseaward and dumping it just offshorein the form of one or two large sandbars. Locals can point out the wavesbreaking on these sand bars duringwinter months. The sand slowlyreturns to shore during springtimewhen the weather settles downreturning the beach once again to itsvisitors. The famous Tunns sand bank(taken from the Irish word ‘an tuian’meaning wave) just 1 mile offMagilligan Point famously builds upevery number of years, to a pointwhere it is exposed enough to landon. In 1994, a charity rugby matchwas played on it.

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Mineral Magnetite J.A.

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of tide. This relentless drying andwetting presents a tough challenge toall coastal life forms whilst contendingwith constant predator threat. In aworld of eat or be eaten, either hideby dull colours or stand out brightly tohopefully scare.

BURIEDBuried in the sands awaiting thereturn of the tide are such bivalvemolluscs as the common cockle, thebanded carpet shell and the wellnamed razor shell. Along with shellsis a range of specialised worms suchas the lugworm and rag worm,popular as bait for anglers. The lugworm feeds on any nutrients that itcan siphon through the sand while itsmore aggressive cousin, the ragwormis a vicious predator (watch out,they bite).

ANCIENTIn other cases you can see the sandperched up on top of the underlyingsoil. These ancient soils are glacial inorigin (see Runkerry and Bannestuary at Portstewart) and sopre-date the sand. The beach at MillStrand, Portrush lies on top ofancient peat beds including someearlier windblown sand which issome of the oldest dated in theBritish Isles.

Sand removal for any reason isforbidden.

Beachcomber’s tip: If you do dig ahole in the sand to find out how deepit is, please do fill in the hole again toavoid injury or vehicle damage.

Q. HOW FAR OUT DOES THE SAND GO BENEATH THE SEA?

North coast sands have been detected

and surveyed up to 10 miles offshore.Beachcomber’s tip: Be careful whenwading out into the sea especially atlow tides, as some beaches haveseverely shelving sand i.e. it suddenlydips or falls away and you cansuddenly be in deep water. Check outa local maritime map/chart to seewater depths around the coast.

Q. DOES ANYTHING LIVE IN THE SAND?

LIFE IS TOUGHSandy beaches may appear lifelessbut a closer inspection can revealmany clues such as holes, burrows,mounds, trails and swirls that testifyto a small range of specialised andcomplex life systems above and belowthe surface. Life in the sand is harshand animals and plants have to copewith such extreme conditions as wind,sun and salt water. Part or most of thebeach is subject to the daily rhythms Cockle N.McD

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RICHBeach sand is nutrient-poor and mostplants and animals are especiallygood at making the most of whatexists or in some cases creating orfixing their own. Very coarse, pebblybeaches are the least rich in life. Incontrast the silty sands found nearthe mouths of rivers and sea loughs,are rich in organic sediments and arehome to associated fauna from wormsand shellfish to fish and birds.Beaches like Magilligan Point andPortballintrae Bay are noted for theirshell deposits. Check out a range ofinsects hopping over the surface insearch of damp shaded surfaces likeclumps of seaweed.

Beachcomber’s tip: Magilligan andDownhill are good for checking outlugworm casts (smooth piles of

EROSIONThe dunes and the beach are one andthe same mass of sediment with arecognisable boundary between themin the form of a plant frontier (thelimit of successful plant growth). AtMill Strand, Portrush and part ofCurran Strand, Portrush the beachand dunes are separated by concretepromenades. This interrupts naturalcycles of erosion and deposition andcan lead to increased erosion andundermining. Sand is constantly onthe move and dunes are prone toerosion and collapse. Equally, newdunes can form over a very shortperiod of time (see Portstewart). Theoldest sand dunes in Ireland havebeen recorded on the west bank ofthe Lower Bann estuary atGrangemore near Articlave.

spaghetti -like casts) and other marinelife. Make your own shell collection(see back for ID). Take them home andpaint on a little clear varnish tocapture their true colours.

Q. HOW ARE SAND DUNES FORMED?

WINDBLOWNBeach dunes are simply piles ofwindblown sand which have beensecured by a range of specialisedplants. As beach sediments werebeing deposited on shore by the sea,prevailing winds blew the dryingsands first into small parallel ridgesand then gradually into a complexseries of vegetated hills (dunes) andhollows (slacks).

Portstewart N.McD

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DUNE-BUILDERA very specialised plant which getsthe nickname of dune-builder isMarram grass (see Plant ID). Marram isa lonesome pioneer spreading out intoloose, bare sand where it somehowfinds nourishment while its roots bindthe sand together. When we moveinland to where the dunes are morevegetated and the whitish sand isdarkened to a greyish-brown soilby decaying, organic matter, Marramis absent.

which is half the time it takes themoon to circle the Earth hence we gettwo high and two low tides every 24hrs. However rather than one greatprogressive tide circling the earth,there are a number of local tidesdiffering greatly in the areas theycover.

All coastal and near shore lifeincluding the activity of the humanbeach visitor is influenced by tidalmovement.

SPRINGS AND NEAPSBecause our orbiting patterns varyseasonally we also see seasonaltrends in our tides. More noticeably,as the sun and moon occur oppositeto each other (with us in the middle)we experience extremely high tides(springs) and when at right angles toeach other we experience the leasttidal movements (neaps). (see later forsafety information on tides).

Q. HOW DO TIDES WORK?

GRAVITY In a word, gravity! Tides aremeasurable, rhythmic and predictabletwice-daily movements of our seasand oceans. It is principally thecombined pulling powers of the sunand the moon on our seas that causethe tides. Our orbiting moon ‘pulls’ thewater after it and as we all orbit thesun, we come under it’s immensegravitational pull too. Our ownplanet’s gravity and the friction of thesea bed, counters these influences tosome degree. In addition, the rotationof the Earth, the great ocean currentsof the world, the wind, the shape ofthe land above and beneath the seaand the texture of the sea bed allcombine to influence the speed anddirection of the tides.

The difference in times between everyhigh and low tide is roughly 12.5 hrs

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appearance of something unsavoury.This often coincides with periods ofheavy rainfall when the rivers whichflow into the sea are in spate,carrying a larger than normal payloadof suspended solids (soil and urbanrunoff).

COLOURED WAVESThe waves at some beaches lookreddish-brown. This is peaty-soilwhich has been washed into the seaby rivers which pass through anddrain peat lands eg. the R. Bush atRunkerry and the R. Margy atBallycastle.

ARE THERE ANY RULES?As with any publicly accessible areamanaged for recreation, there are

Q. WHAT ARE THE SCUMMY BROWN BUBBLES ON THE BEACH AND WHY DOES THE SEA SOMETIMES APPEAR RED?

COLOURED FROTHSuspended within and resting uponthe surface of the sea is anunavoidable mixture of sediments(sand, silt, muds, peat and in somecases treated sewage). This decreasesin concentration with distance fromshore. With its vigorous movements(particularly in the breaking zone) thewaves agitate the water and anythingcontained within simply gets frothedup (aerated) like a huge milkshake.The frothy foam can often bediscoloured and soon gets depositedupon the shore often giving the

rules and guidelines to good and safebehaviour. Here are some more typicalquestions.

Q. IS IT ILLEGAL TO REMOVE SAND FROM A BEACH

Removal of sand for any reason isstrictly prohibited from all publicbeaches on the north coast andparticularly those designated as eitherAreas of Special Scientific Interest,Special Areas of Conservation orSpecial Protected Areas. In the pastsand was taken from beaches foragricultural purposes by farmers usinga horse drawn cart and shovel. Todayremoval is often large scale andinsensitive using machinery, whichcause a lot of damage.

Scientific evidence has reportedthat sediment removal over a longperiod of time is enough to causeserious erosion and shorelinerecession on some smaller beaches.Report any sand removal to therelevant Local Authority.

Whiterocks J.A.Curran Strand J.A.

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barely perceivable, while others arevery evident and potentially life-threatening. Rips are particularlypotent in large surf conditions andcan also occur near river mouths,estuaries and headlands as well asaround piers and other man-madestructures.

SMALL RIVERAs the sea breaks on a sandy shoresome water is absorbed by the sandand the remainder runs back towardsthe sea which in itself can often beenough to pull the bather off theirfeet. This ‘back flow’ is strongest onbeaches with steep profiles. Ripsform when the returning water ischannelled into a concentrated flowlike a small river which extends outto sea for a varying distance, thuscreating a particular danger tobathers.

Q. HOW DO I KNOW IF A BEACH IS SAFE TO SWIM ON?

RESPECTIn reality all beaches are dangerous(to varying degrees) and should all betreated with respect. The beach andnear shore environment is an everchanging one unlike the consistencyof an artificial pool. Combinations oftides, back currents (see rip currents),breaking waves, cold water, softsands and varying water depthspresent a challenge to even the mostcompetent of swimmers and everycaution must be taken when bathingin the sea.

BLUE FLAGSome beaches will be awardedEuropean Blue Flag status from timeto time to denote a particular level ofcleanliness and safety including oneor more Beach Guards during daylighthours (not necessarily a Life Guard).

A Blue Flag and/or Beach Guards donot lessen the risks of swimming inthe sea and care must still be taken.

Bathing is unsafe and notrecommended at both White ParkBay and Runkerry Strand, althoughRunkerry is highly popular withboard surfers.

Note: A specially designed BeachSafety Leaflet has been produced byColeraine Borough Council toaccompany this Guide.

Q. WHY IS A RIP CURRENTLIFE THREATENING?

A rip current (rip) is a strong naturallyoccurring, seaward movement ofwater within the surf zone.Sometimes referred to asundercurrents or back currents, everybeach has them to varying degrees ofstrength and predictability. Some are

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SIGNSThere are sometimes obvious signs onthe sand as to the presence of a ripcurrent. The trained observer canmake out a strong sinuous (snake-like)line along the boundary between thefreshly wetted and the dry sandwhich speaks of a variable or unevenseaward flow of water. A strongerflow is occurring where the linebends towards the sea and is almostcertainly a rip current.

Also look out for discoloured waterwhere the sand is stirred up by therip, or foam on the water’s surface,debris or litter flowing out to sea ora rippled patch of water where thesea around it is calmer.

Note: Pick up a free ColeraineBorough Council Beach Safety Leafletfor more details.

Q. WHY ARE CARS ALLOWED ON SOME BEACHES AND NOT OTHERS

Cars are permitted on the followingnorth coast beaches: Benone,Downhill, Castlerock, andPortstewart. There is no access forvehicles on to any of the otherbeaches. The National Trust charge alevy for cars at Portstewart, part ofwhich goes back into themanagement and care of the beachand dune system. In addition the carsare restricted to certain parts ofPortstewart Strand leavingpedestrian and childrens’ playingareas.

It is felt that cars generally have anegative impact on sandy beachespartly by compacting the sand,contributing to unnatural beachrecession and loss of habitat and evensand removal (attached to car wheels).Always be careful to watch for risingtides and soft sand.

Q. IS DROPPING LITTER ON A BEACH THE SAME AS ON A STREET

Litter is simply rubbish in the wrongplace. It belongs in a bin and not lefton the high street or the beach.Littering is an offence under the Litter(NI) Order 1994 and refers to anywaste disposed of to the open air.This clearly includes beaches.Whereas littering in the streetenvironment is equally distasteful, itis easier to facilitate for and removethan in the beach environment.

Note: Similarities between jellyfishand plastic bags. Sea turtles find ithard to tell the difference until it istoo late and they choke.

J.A.

J.A.


CLEANINGBeach visitor litter combines with tidalflotsam (marine debris) to present ahazard to both humans and wildlifealike. Coleraine Borough Counciluses a combination of mechanical andmanual cleaning of beaches.Unfortunately the mechanical beachrake cannot distinguish betweenvisitor litter and natural beach litterlike seaweed etc which contributes tobeach ecology. On recreationalbeaches with high visitor numbers, itis necessary to use mechanical meansto meet the standards of cleanlinessand measures are taken to reduce the

use of the beach cleaner over theautumn and winter periods.

Q. ARE DOGS ALLOWED ON BEACHES?

Dog manure is a health hazard andwhere people come to play and relaxon the sand, it is particularlyunwelcome. Dogs are restricted tospecific sections of ColeraineBorough Council beaches duringpeak season months. Responsibleowners are expected to keep theirdogs on a leash and to bag their dogfoul and place it in a bin.

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J.A. J.A.

J.A.

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Atlantic storm at Portstewart pier, Barmouth

J.A.

First time visitors to the northcoast are always curious as towhat they can see from the shore.

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WHAT AM I LOOKING AT?

Q. IS THAT REALLY SCOTLAND?

HORIZONPeople are often puzzled andsurprised to see distant mountainsand islands on the horizon. Somebelieve it to be some remote part ofIreland and most are pleasantlysurprised to learn that it is indeedpart of the Scottish Inner Hebrideanchain of islands. Visible from Portrushand north Antrim on most days is partof the southern shores of Islay and itstwo large headlands (The Rhinns tothe west and the Mull of Oa to theeast). Sometimes the two headlandsare mistaken for two separate islands.

Often in the background, giving theappearance that they are part of Islayare 2-3 large conical mountain peaks.They are the famous Paps of theisland of Jura another large Hebrideanisland just north and east of Islay. Onmost days the large and forebodingsouth-west facing buttress of theequally famous Mull of Kintyre can beseen looming over the background ofour own Rathlin Island. Check out

some of the interpreted viewpointsalong the north Antrim coast eg.Magheracross at Dunluce andPortaneevy at Ballintoy.

DONEGALTo the west and stretching north isDonegal’s beautiful Innishowenpeninsula. Visible are InnishowenHead and Balbane head as well asGlengad on better days. In certainconditions you can pick up on thedistant north western horizon the lowlying island of Innistrahull with itsblinking lighthouse just off MalinHead (Ireland’s most northerly point).Innishowen is accessible by car andpassenger ferry from Magilligan Point(all year).

Just off Ramore Head at Portrush is alittle chain of minor islands known asthe Skerries (taken from the ScottishGaelic meaning sea rocks). OffBallintoy are two lesser islands calledSheep Island and the famousCarrickarede Island (accessible byrope bridge (May-Sept). View North East of Mull of Kintyre over Rathlin Island J.A.

WHAT AM I LOOKING AT?

North Irish coast and South West Scottish Isles

BEACH LITTER A THREAT TO THE BEACH ENVIRONMENT

SPOILNothing spoils a beach visit more thanhaving to share it with someone’srubbish. A combination of beachvisitor litter and marine (tidal)debris is polluting our beaches andposing a threat to the safety ofwildlife and humans alike. By nomeans unique to the north Irish coast,this global problem is a sad reflectionof how many people today have littleor no regard for quality of life.

CAMPAIGNIn the marine environment, suchwaste is hard to recover where itinflicts injury and causes the death of thousands of marine creaturesevery year. As well as removingrubbish from its beaches, ColeraineBorough Council has been runningan anti-litter campaign for the past15 years which includes a strongfocus on the impacts of beach litterand marine debris.

BLACK MUSEUMThe Council’s EnvironmentService, has created a blackmuseum of recovered beach litter andmarine debris that represents everyaspect of human society. From thecommercial fishing and tourismindustries to the farming andbuilding industries and every typeof beach user. From the bizarre to theridiculous, the gross to the dangerous.All unnecessary and definitelyunwanted.

FOOTPRINTSWhile endeavouring to remove litterfrom our beaches both manually andmechanically, we can neverguarantee that they will ever be litterfree. So we appeal to all beachvisitors not only to be cautious butalso to ensure that you remove anywaste that you generate and use thenearby bins. Simply put, leavenothing but your FOOTPRINTS!

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J.A.

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WILDLIFE & SAFETY

WILDLIFEFrom time to time beach visitors getan opportunity to encounter somespectacular marine wildlife bothalive and dead. This can range fromseals and birds to whales anddolphins and even agriculturalanimals.

All are intriguing and attract attentionbut all are a potential risk to humanhealth as well as amenity (in the caseof dead strandings).

Here are a few guidelines.

LIVE STRANDINGSWhen encountering a living animal ona north coast beach, keep a minimumdistance of 1 metre and encourageothers to do similar. Immediatelycontact Environment & HeritageService at Portrush who areresponsible for all wildlife, also reportall sightings to Irish Whale &Dolphin Group (www.iwdg.ie).

WARNING – sealsLiving seals (adults and pups) aredangerous and can cause seriousinjury by biting. Do not attempt to lift,

stroke or remove a live seal. In theabsence of obvious injury, the animalmay well be hauled out by choice.Simply leave in peace and admirefrom a distance.

WELFARE – whalesIn the event of encountering a livestranded whale, dolphin or porpoise(cetacean), immediately contact EHSat Portrush or Coastguard. They willinitiate a welfare procedure torefloat the animal. Meantimeapproach quietly, avoid suddenmovements and crowding. Ifconditions are sunny keep animal’sskin wetted, taking every effort toavoid water entering the blowhole(situated on top of the head). You maybe asked to volunteer assistance(subject to conditions).

DEAD STRANDINGSUnfortunately we tend to encountermore dead than live animals whichmay simply be part of the naturalmortality rate of the marineenvironment. Most animals will be invarying states of decay and as well asunpleasant to look at, will also pose athreat to human health. Be advised

not to touch dead animals and birds.Again call either EHS at Portrush orthe relevant Council or other beachmanager (eg. National Trust).

JELLYFISHAt certain times of the year you mayencounter several hundred strandedjellyfish usually after storms. Somejellyfish sting and some don’t. Evenimmediately after death there may bean ability to cause injury. Just ignoreand let nature take its course.

Natural marine litter and flotsam cancontain many interesting specimenssuch as egg cases of skates (mermaidspurse) and whelks. Also goosebarnacles (attached to debris), seaurchins, star fish and little ‘by thewind sailors’.

Stranded Minke Whale at Portstewart 1993

Dead harbour porpoise, Downhill Beach

C.B.C.

J.A.

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We have selected a sample number of bird, plant and shell fish species that can befound or seen on most of the beaches featured in this book. We have been unable toinclude all species and have not included fish and invertebrates but hope that youenjoy using the ID charts to discover the rich variety of wildlife that exists in thisexciting habitat.

BIVALVES

1 2 3

4

5

6 7 8 9

10 11 12 13

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WHAT’S THAT SHELL?

14 15 16 17

18 19 20

21 22 23

24 25 26

1. ARK SHELL 03cm2. BALTIC TELLIN 1.5–02cm3. BLUNT TELLIN 05cm4. BANDED VENUS 02cm5. STRIPEDVENUS 02–03cm6. VENUS SHELLS 3.5–04cm7. BANDED WEDGE 02–03cm8. COMMON/BLUE MUSSELL 02–06cm9. ICELANDIC MUSSELL 10–12cm10. HORSE MUSSEL 03–12cm11. COMMON COCKLE 02–07cm12. DOG COCKLE 02–06cm13. PRICKLY COCKLE 04–05cm14. POD RAZOR 15–18cm15. SWORD RAZOR 10–15cm16. RAYED ARTEMIS 02–03cm17. PULLET CARPET 05cm18. TROUGH SHELLS 02–04cm19. RAYED TROUGH SHELLS 03–06cm20. PORTUGESE OYSTER 11cm21. NATIVE OYSTER 05–10cm22. COMMON OYSTER 04–10cm23. HUNCHBACKED SCALLOP 03cm24. QUEEN SCALLOP 05–06cm25. VARGEGATED SCALLOP 02–04cm26. OTTER SHELL 09–13cm

Shell Photography by Nigel McDowell

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UNIVALVES

27 28 29

30 31 32 33

34 35 36 37

38 39 40 41

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WHAT’S THAT SHELL?

42 43 44

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27. ACORN BARNACLE 01cm28. ARCTIC COWRIE 0.05–01cm29. EUROPEAN COWRIE 0.75–01cm30. FLAT PERIWINKLE 0.25–02cm31. ROUGH PERIWINKLE 0.75–01cm32. EDIBLE PERIWINKLE 0.50–03cm33. GREY TOP SHELL 01–02cm34. PURPLE TOP SHELL 01–02cm35. PAINTED TOP SHELL 02–03cm36. RED WHELK 06–09cm37. COMMON WHELK 03–10cm38. DOG WHELK 01–03cm39. NETTED & THICK-LIPPED

WHELK 01.50–03cm40. PELICAN’S FOOT 04cm41. TOWER SHELL 02-03cm42. CHINA LIMPET 01- -3.5cm43. KEYHOLE LIMPET 01.50cm44. BLUE RAYED LIMPET

0.50–02.50cm45. COMMON LIMPET 01–07cm

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Barnacle

Shell Figures

Shell Shakers and bracelets

Limplight

Shell on Shell sssshhhhh the babies are sleeping

Various Claws

Maclaw ParrotsMussels with bad hair day

Barnacles on various Detailed flat Periwinkle

Tower Shell

Limpet City

Barnacle on Scallop

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Black Guillemot Guillemot Puffin

Shag Cormorant Razorbill

WHAT’S THAT BIRD?

All birds courtesy of RSPB

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Lesser Black-backed Gull Black-headed Gull Gannet

Herring Gull Fulmar Kittiwake

WHAT’S THAT BIRD?

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Redshank Common or Artic Tern Oyster Catcher

Sanderling Eider Duck Shelduck

WHAT’S THAT BIRD?

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Ringed Plover Buzzard Peregrine

Turnstone Pipit Skylark

WHAT’S THAT BIRD?

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Whitlow Grass Wild Thyme Eyebright

Sea Rocket Wild Pansy Stonecrop

WHAT’S THAT PLANT?

All plants courtesy of Ulster Museum

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Field Mouse-ear Harebell Sticky Stork’s Bill

Primose Lady’s Bedstraw Germander Speedwell


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Sow Thistle Cat’s Ear Ragged Robin

Tormentil Silverweed Coltsfoot


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Marsh Orchid Early Purple Orchid Pyramidal Orchid

Broad-leaf Plantain Red Campion Red Clover


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White Clover Kidney Vetch Wild Strawberry

Forget-me-not Milkwort Bird’s-foot Trefoil


Respect all wildlife and remember a wild flower always looks better in the ground than in your hand.

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Face to face with an ocean, youstand bare foot on sand, stirred bythe heady blend of damp salted airand endless hissing surf. In one ofthe most invigorating parts of thenatural world, where moods andcolours can change in an instant,you begin to spring the lock of everyisland’s treasure. It’s the beginningof every beach experience.

Marvelling at the effortless flightplan of a hunting gannet you long tounderstand the language of theclouds on the horizon’s mantelpiece.Sneaking a shell to your ear,memories of a hundred beach picnicsfill your heart with the speed of aspring tide and a palette ofPortstewart sunsets colours yourmind. Imagining you see the flash ofa dark fin just beyond the surf, youdance back from the licking swash,pockets rattling with abeachcomber’s bounty of crab clawsand shells. Seeing pictures of sealsand dolphins in the stick of sea-smooth driftwood in your hand youtoss it to the waves, waiting childlikefor its return as this mermaid’spurse of treasure spills open allaround you.

Eventually with a mix of regret andfulfilment you turn from the sea topad back across the soft sand,senses charged and appetitesharpened, pondering theuniqueness of the moment. Did youfeel like there is no where else youwould rather be and do you everconsider how fortunate you are to bean ‘islander’.....treasure found.

Jim AllenJ.A.

TREASURE FOUND

J.A.

J.A.

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N.McD

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CONTACTS

Coleraine Borough Council 7034 7034 www.colerainebc.gov.ukLeisure Services 7034 7234Tourism Development 7034 7044Coleraine Tourist Information Centre (All year) 7034 4723Portrush Tourist Information Centre (Seasonal) 7082 3333

Limavady Borough Council 7772 2226 www.limavady.gov.ukRecreation/Tourism 7776 0304Benone Tourist Complex 7775 0555

Moyle District Council 207 62225 www.moyle-council.orgTourist Information Centre 2076 2024

EMERGENCY SERVICESMarine and Coastguard Agency 999 (Emergency only)Coleraine PSNI 7034 4122Limavady PSNI 7776 6797Ballycastle PSNI 2076 2312

CONSERVATIONEnvironment & Heritage Service, Portrush 7082 3600Environment & Heritage Service, Limavady 7776 3982Ulster Wildlife Trust (Umbra Nature Reserve) 4483 0282Magilligan Field Centre 7775 0234National Trust, Portstewart 7083 36396 / 7084 8728National Trust, Giants Causeway 2073 1582Irish Whale & Dolphin Group 7034 4083 www.iwdg.ieUSPCA 9066 0479Causeway Coast & Glens Heritage Trust 2075 2100

Coleraine Borough Council wishes to thank the following for their co-operation in the production of this publication: Limavady Borough Council,Moyle District Council, The National Trust, the Environment and Heritage Service at Portrush, The University of Ulster and the Ulster Museum.

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SENSITIVE MANAGEMENT

Coleraine Borough Council is committed tothe sensitive management of all of itsrecreational beaches and to playing its partin an all integrated approach to coastalmanagement. Raising awareness andappreciation of all aspects of the naturalworld within the Borough, includingbeaches, is regarded as integral to Council’s Corporate Plan and helping createa better Borough.

PhotographyN.McD - Nigel McDowellMH - Mike HartwellJA - Jim AllenNT - National TrustCBC - Coleraine Borough CouncilII - Ian Irvinekitecrew.com

Bootlace Seaweed J.A.

Lower Bann estuary, at Portstewart J.A.

COLERAINE BOROUGH COUNCILCREATING A BETTER BOROUGH THROUGH:EDUCATION

This project has been assisted by Causeway Coast & Glens Heritage Trust as part of the Natural Resource Rural Tourism Initiative under the EU Programme for Peace and Reconciliation.

N.McD

Beaches .... an islands treasure

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