BBB PREVIEW

brands — press — business14—16 January 2014 airport berlin-tempelhof

PreviewindependenT and Free sinCe 2001

Respect your competitors.Never miss BREAD & BUTTER!

Respect the present.Be open to a visionary future. breaD & butter

www.breaDanDbutter.com

A L L B R A N D

S •

BO

OT

H LISTINGS •

HA

LL

MA

PS

•

INCLUDINGAREA GUIDE—

wir sinD einberliner.—breaD & butter, airport berlin-tempelhof

breaDanDbutter.com

#bbbM aG2 preview breaDanDbutter winter 2014

— #bbbmaG

3 welcome to breaDanDbutter 4 ich bin miKe hoDis

6 a moDern iDentity crisis calleD berlin 10 ich bin KoGi “poGGy” motofumi

12 the real mccoy’s

14 introDucinG... younG Dexter navy

15 #bbbmaG news

— area GuiDe

18 urban fashion 20 urban base & D.o.c.K.

22 urban superior & treasury 24 l.o.c.K. & fire Dept.

25 alphabetical branD inDex

28 b&b meDia partners

— news & press

29 frienD of freD by J’n’c 30 fransen sinD Das neue volant by blonDe

31 Drive style by the heritaGe post 32 the harris tweeD proJect by coDe

34 oversizeD Gets stylish by wear

35 prints Galore by wear

36 ten c by inventory

38 v9n12 taschenDiebe by vice

— press & news

41 maKinG it in america by apparel insiDers 42 breaD & butter by mwb

44 DJs at worK by sportswear international 46 Drapers by Drapers

47 berlino città aperta by fashion

48 l’aDn Des marques by waD

50 Der anfanG war ein albtraum by J’n’c news

52 Denim unD Die umwelt by fashion toDay

53 only baD sales people are expensive by style in proGress

54 our passion for raw Denim by Denimhunters.com

content

#bbbM aG preview 3 breaDanDbutter winter 2014

welcome to breaDanDbutter

on a Different note:

Great you made it. So happy you are here! We are proud to present the B&B PREVIEW – the must-have publication to find your way as a Berliner. The B&B PREVIEW provides you with 4 books of fun & business:

You might have heard rumors or you might even know about it. The biggest news upfront: BREADANDBUTTER IS GOING PUBLIC! Here it is, the new BREADANDBUTTER schedule for SUMMER 2014.

— 1. #bbbmaGWe are delighted to present you an exclusive selec-tion of our most recent project: #BBBMAG. If you want more, go visit BREADANDBUTTER.COM

— 2. areaGuiDeThe guide for your BBB journey. Make sure to connect with your favourite brands!

— 3. news & pressOMG! We have teamed up with our media partners. Read great articles by our friends J’N’C, Blonde, The Heritage Post, CODE, WeAr, Inventory & VICE.

— 4. press & newsMore stuff you will like. Or you don’t but we actu-ally really do. Here you can find editorials by Ap-parel Insiders, MWB, Sportswear International, Drapers, fashion, WAD, J’N’C, fashion today, style in progress & denimhunters.com

Fantastic news, right? We are so excited already. But let’s enjoy this show first!

Yours sincerely,

Joey W. Elgersma & Katharina Hegemann

TUESDAY8 JULY 2014

PRESS& VIP DAY

WEDNESDAY9 JULY 2014

PROFESSIONALDAY

THURSDAY10 JULY 2014

PROFESSIONALDAY

FRIDAY11 JULY 2014

PUBLICDAY

SATURDAY12 JULY 2014

PUBLICDAY

WE AREBREADANDBUTTER

WE AREBREADANDBUTTER

we wish all of you a successful weeK. Don’t be a stranGer, we are all berliners!

BRANDS — PRESS — BUSINESS14—16 JANUARY 2014 AIRPORT BERLIN-TEMPELHOF

PreviewINDEPENDENT AND FREE SINCE 2001

Respect your competitors.Never miss BREAD & BUTTER!

Respect the present.Be open to a visionary future. BREAD & BUTTER

WWW.BREADANDBUTTER.COM

A L L B R A N D

S •

BO

OT

H LISTINGS •

HA

LL

MA

PS

•

INCLUDINGAREA GUIDE—

WIR SIND EINBERLINER.—BREAD & BUTTER, Airport Berlin-Tempelhof

BREADANDBUTTER.COM

PREVIEW 17

PLATZ DERLUFTBRÜCKE

ENTRANCEEXIT

HALL 2

HALL 1

RESTAURANT

CAFÉ

WARDROBE

B&B PUBLICATIONS

INFO POINT

TOILETS

TOILETS FOR DISABLED

MAIN ENTRANCE/EXIT

TICKET SCAN

TECHNICAL OFFICE

GENERAL AVIATION TERMINAL

VISITOR SHUTTLE 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.

METRO

PARKING fixed prices

B&B AIRPORT & CIT Y SHUTTLE 3.30 p.m. – 7.30 p.m. Every 30 minutes to TXL Tegel, SXF Schönefeld,S+U Alexanderplatz

TAXI T. +49 (0)30 26 10 26 T. +49 (0)30 44 33 22 T. +49 (0)30 20 20 20

FIRST AID/ERSTE HILFE T. +49 (0)30 816 90 13 90

TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. THURSDAY: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

You can access our wireless internet conection throughout the whole exhibition area.

LOGIN:Wi-Fi Network: BREADANDBUTTERUsername: bbbPassword: berlin

BREADANDBUTTER WINTER 2014

— All Brands,Booth Listingsand Hallmaps

AIRPORT TEMPELHOF: AREAS OVERVIEW

WELCOME TOAIRPORT TEMPELHOF

LEGEND

OPENING TIMES

WI-FI CONNECTION

CONTENTURBAN FASHION HALL 1 18HALL 2 19

URBAN BASE PART 1 + D.O.C.K. 20PART 2 21

URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 + TREASURY 22HALL 2 23

L.O.C.K. & FIRE DEPT. 24

ALPHABETICAL BRAND INDEX 25

FIN

D A

LL

B&B CAFÉS & RESTA

UR

AN

TS •

F O O D & D R I N K •

Area Guide PREVIEW 29 BREADANDBUTTER WINTER 2014

News & Press

— Oliver Horton Interview — Andi Zimmermann Fotos

Ein knappes Dreivierteljahr ist vergangen, seit Andy Rogers den Job als Brand Director beim High-Street-Retailer Reiss gegen den-selben Posten bei Fred Perry eingetauscht hat. Zuvor war er sieben Jahre lang die rech-te Hand von Stella McCartney — als Vi-sual Director. „Ich war der Kreative im Büro, der keine Kleidung entworfen hat.“ Bei Fred Perry kommt dem 44-Jährigen die Aufgabe zu, ein Sportswear-Label zu pushen, bei dem sich längst nicht alles um Sport dreht, und den Bekanntheitsgrad des Brands mit dem Lorbeerblatt-Logo weiter zu erhöhen. „Das Wichtigste ist, das, was wir tun, besser zu machen.“

Rogers, 44, lebt mit seiner Frau, einer Freelance-Schmuckdesignerin, und seinen zwei Söhnen in Süd-London. Zur Head Office von Fred Perry in Covent Garden fährt er mit seinem maßge-schneiderten Single-speed-Bike aus der briti-schen Fahrradschmiede Bob Jackson. Das passt gut, denn zu den Kollaborationen im Hause Fred Perry gehört eine mit Tour-de-France-Gewin-ner Bradley Wiggins. Wie viele Fred-Perry-Träger liebt Andy Rogers Fußball, auch wenn er sich beim Spielen seinen Knöchel ruiniert hat und sich über seine „schlechten Hüften“ be-schwert. Er trägt eine Uhr der Marke Patek Phi-lippe und liebt auch sonstigen Schmuck. Er könne sich gut vorstellen, meint Rogers, eines Tages wieder für ein Schmucklabel zu arbeiten — wie zu Beginn seiner Karriere, als er unter anderem für Tiffany & Co. tätig war.

Rogers Büro bei Fred Perry ist überraschend kahl — nur zwei Laserdrucke von der letzten Fred-Perry-Kampagne hängen an der Wand, als Dekoration und Inspiration zugleich. Es handelt sich um Schwarz-Weiß-Bilder, die Männer in streng zugeknöpften Shirts zeigen, was vorder-gründig im Kontrast zu Fred Perrys Heritage als smarte Tennis-Marke zu stehen scheint. Doch diese Sichtweise relativiert sich schnell, blickt man auf die wechselvolle Geschichte des Brands zurück, das in der Vergangenheit immer wieder auch gemeinsame Sache mit jugendlichen Subkulturen gemacht hat — allen voran mit den Mods und der Northern-Soul-Bewegung. Rogers beschreibt seine Rolle als die des „brand guardian“ und räumt ein: „Manchmal sehen wir vielleicht zu britisch aus.“ Er möchte Fred Per-ry als eine Marke für Non-Konformisten jeglicher Herkunft etablieren und den Lorbeerkranz auf der Brust als Zeichen der Rebellion. „In Jeans kannst du nicht mehr non-konformistisch sein“, meint er schließlich.

Die Fred-Perry-Büros machen einen recht spar-tanischen Eindruck...

Ich muss mit dem Office Manager reden — ich hasse den Eingangsbereich. Es gehört zu meinem Job, mich um solche Dinge zu kümmern.

Was unterscheidet deine Tätigkeit bei Fred Perry von deinen früheren Jobs?

Bei Reiss haben wir die Marke quasi erfunden. Hier ist sie bereits sehr stark. Wir haben 1,2 Mil-lionen hingebungsvolle Hardcore-Fans auf Fa-cebook — die werden immer mehr über Fred Perry wissen als ich. Also unterscheidet sich der Job fundamental von dem bei Reiss. Bei Fred Perry geht es darum, die DNA, den Ethos und die Seele der Marke zu bewahren und zugleich einem

breiteren Publikum zu vermitteln, was diese drei Dinge ausmacht. Fred Perry ist sowohl in einer Sportkette wie JD Sports als auch bei Do-ver Street Market präsent, und zwar mit nahezu derselben Produkten. Es gibt lediglich eine Hand-voll Brands, denen dieser Spagat gelingt — Nike und Adidas vielleicht.

Woher diese breite Zielgruppe?

Fred Perry ist eingebettet in die Geschichte verschiedener Subkulturen und Musikszenen — angefangen von den 1950er bis zum heu-tigen Tag. Die Marke entwickelt sich stetig wei-ter und hat Fans auf der ganzen Welt. In den Social Media bilden Brand und Shirt quasi eine Einheit, und das zieht sich durch alle Subkultu-

ren. Und es gibt stets eine Konstante: Fred Per-ry repräsentiert den modernen, eher cleanen, geschmackssicheren Part der jeweiligen Bewe-gung. Da gibt es dieses tolle Foto von einem Ty-pen aus L.A., mit Gang-Tattoos selbst auf den Händen und Fingerknöcheln. Ansonsten: Haar-tolle, Jeans und ein Paar Boots. Und das, was diesen Look zusammenhält, ist das cleane Fred-Perry-Shirt, zugeknöpft und eng geschnitten. Tattoo-Träger oder was auch immer — das Shirt ist der gemeinsame Nenner.

„Fred Perry ist sowohl bei JD Sports als auch bei Dover Street Market präsent. Es gibt lediglich eine Handvoll Brands, denen dieser Spagat gelingt.“

Welchen Subkulturen fühlt sich Fred Perry heute verbunden?

Wir sind immer noch Teil der Fankultur im Fuß-ball. Ob man Fußball nun liebt oder hasst — fest steht, dass sich dort auf den Tribünen bis heute eine oftmals sehr modeaffine Jugend ver-sammelt. Dann bekomme ich aber auch Dinge zu hören wie: „Wusstest du, dass es in Thailand eine Underground-Punk-Szene gibt, die nur Fred Perry trägt?“ Und der Typ in L.A., von dem ich eben gesprochen habe, ist ein Latino-Rapper. Das Tolle an den Social Media ist: Man bekommt mit, was solche Leute mögen. Du siehst Typen, die auf Death Metal oder Hardcore Trash und auf Fred Perry stehen, Street People aus Singa-pur und ihre Interpretation des Brands. Oder Skater, die Fred Perry tragen.

BRAND HISTORYFred Perry hieß der Mann aus dem Norden Englands, der Tennis – einstmals ein Upper-Class-Sport – in den 1930er Jahren revolutionieren sollte. Wie? Indem er, Sohn eines Baumwollspinners, dreimal in Folge Wimbledon gewann. Zum Missfallen des britischen Establishments, was Perry später dazu bringen sollte, in die USA auszuwan-dern. Im Zweiten Weltkrieg kämpfte er in den Reihen der amerikanischen Armee, war der Liebhaber der deutschen Schauspielerin Marlene Dietrich und lancierte 1952 seine eigene Tennis-Shirt-Kollektion. Die Marke wurde von Clubszene und später unter anderem von den Mods und der Northern-Soul-Gemeinde für sich entdeckt. Allesamt wussten sie ein Shirt zu schätzen, in dem man schwitzen konnte, während man tanzte. Das Markenlogo, der Lor-beerkranz, avancierte zum Symbol der Jugendkultur, während das Tennis-Erbe des Unternehmens zunehmend in den Hintergrund rückte, da man sich dem Sport-Spon-soring weitgehend verweigerte. Anfang des Jahrtausends lancierte Fred Perry seine Footwear und erfand sich selbst neu. Kollaborationen mit Comme des Garçons, Raf Simons, Amy Winehouse oder jüngst mit Rennradfahrer Bradley Wiggins spielten dabei eine zentrale Rolle. Die Marke Fred Perry ist heute unterteilt in die ‚Authentic‘- und die ‚ Laurel Wreath‘-Kollektion. Während ‚Authentic‘ vor allem über Stores mit einem Schwerpunkt auf Sports- und -Casualwear verkauft wird, nimmt sich die Ziel-gruppe von ‚Laurel Wreath‘ etwas anspruchsvoller aus.

„MIT 14/15 DREHTE SICH BEI MIR ALLES UM THE JAM UND FRED PERRY.“

BRANDS & BRAINS Andy Rogers – Fred Perry, London

FRIEND OF FRED

JEANSWEARAND CONTEMPORARY FASHION

No 55 / 1-2014

ENGLISH

COOL CITIESFLORENCESTREET STYLES RETAIL TALKS AND SERVICE

4

01

196389309509

No 55 / 1-2014

CO

OL C

ITIES / FLOR

ENC

EEN

GLISH

INTERVIEWS:

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN, HENRIK

VIBSKOV, ANDY ROGERS, ANDREAS

BAUMGÄRTNER, LINDA LOPPA

D 9,50 EURO

B/NL/A 10,50 EUROE/P/I 11,50 EUROCH 15,80 CHF

JNC-01-2014-Front-Cover.indd 1 12/20/2013 2:56:14 PM

Read this story and many more in the brand new issue of

J’N’C

Get your FREE COPY

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

ICH

BIN

DEUT

SCH

PREVIEW 41 BREADANDBUTTER WINTER 2014

The Do’s and Don’ts of Doing Business in the USA

MAKING IT IN AMERICA — by Gus Floris, Founder Editor-in-Chief , Apparel Insiders

With a population of well over 300,000,000 people, the United States has always been looked at by international fashion brands as the Promised Land. The

thought process by many is, “If we can do 15 mil-lion euro throughout Europe, imagine what we can do in the U.S.” That, my friends, is the first and worst misconception about doing business in here in The States.

As with any market you are trying to break into, establishing your brand in the U.S. takes research and planning. The fact of the matter is, the Amer-ican fashion market is very different from Europe and the wrong move can put you out of business.

To help you understand the market somewhat better, here are several points of consideration:

1 POPULATIONFor one thing, of the 300 million+ consumers,

13% are males between the ages of 16–36 and 14% are females. Of those 87 million, you’ll be lucky if 10% are potential customers. Obviously these numbers have a margin of error and can skew up or down. Additionally, of the billions of dollars spent on apparel, only 10% of that is in the premium marketplace. The point being, that although the USA has the third largest popula-tion, only a small percent would buy your par-ticular product.

2 RETAIL LANDSCAPEThe retail landscape is much different in the

U.S. While most of the European market is pre-dominantly specialty store driven, the USA is made up of a mixture of independent specialty

stores, specialty store chains, department stores and mass merchants. In order to grow beyond $25 million in turnover, you need the department store business. And the department store busi-ness is an extremely difficult tier of distribution. Business practices in the US include: shipping on consignment, looking for the smallest dis-crepancy in the order to charge you back and when product goes on sale (which is often far too early in the selling season), the brand needs to make up the margin the retailers are loosing. These practices are mainly unheard of through-out Europe but are common in America.

3 CultureWhat sells on one continent does not neces-

sarily sell on another. Lifestyles, body types and local customs reflect on what the consumer will and will not wear. Although it’s important to stay true to the brand identity, it’s just as impor-tant to adjust and embrace the market that you are trying to penetrate. In addition to understanding the market you are getting into, you also need to adjust your way of thinking and doing business.

1. Think big but act small. Put your pride and brand arrogance aside and start small. There is no need for a big office, a large staff and your own warehouse facility.

2. Don’t hire your European buddy because he speaks your language. Bring in an experienced and well-regarded operator. A Managing Direc-tor from within the US that has the retail con-nections that can get your product placed and give you important feedback.

3. Hire yourself a U.S.-centric merchandiser that understands the market and consumer buying trends. If you find the right Managing Director, they can assume this role as well. But in either case you will need someone to help edit, adjust

and merchandise your collection to reflect an American mindset. Notice I didn’t say DESIGN. I’m not suggesting redesigning your collection. I only recommend adjusting it, so the American retailer understands it and isn’t overwhelmed.

4. One of the biggest obstacles European brands have when coming to the U.S. is their production schedule. They typically close their wholesale season too early to take advantage of the ex-tremely late buying that happens in the U.S. If you want to do business here and capitalize on the retailers delayed order placing, you need to be more flexible and extend your selling season.

5. Finally, be patient. It takes time and persever-ance to conquer any new land. Start off small, build a strong specialty store distribution and grow within that tier of distribution. You need to have, at the very least, four complete seasons of shipping and selling in the specialty store market before even considering going into the department store business.

There is no sure fire way to success but Prepara-tion is the Mother of Victory and in order to suc-ceed here you need to be patient, risk tolerant and trust and empower the people you put in charge of your brand.

Apparel Insiders is a business-to-business media com-pany based in the US. With a unique editorial point of view published both online and in print, Apparel Insiders has become the new voice of contemporary sportswear industry. AI reports on and features the people, brands, stores and trends that are moving the fashion industry forward. Apparel Insiders is dedicated to championing the branded fashion business.

WWW.APPARELINSIDERS.COM

Read this story and many more in our brand new

magazine issue!

ALTHOUGH IT’S IMPORTANT TO STAY TRUE TO THE BRAND IDENTITY, IT’S JUST AS IMPORTANT TO ADJUST AND EMBRACE THE MARKET THAT YOU ARE TRYING TO PENETRATE.

ICH

BIN

ENGL

ISH

Get your FREE COPY

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

Press & News


breaDanDbutter.com

breaD & butter. 14—16 January 2014airport berlin-tempelhof

ich bin einberliner.—miKe hoDis, pasadena


which creative Keeps on surprisinG you?Technology

weirDest thinG you own?WWII Corsair Fighter Plane Drop Tank. weirDest thinG you DiD? please Don’t show us. or maybe Do?Got tricked into eating Camel Hump, and it doesn’t taste like chicken. usa/asia/europe or africa? why?Africa... it’s pure and full of promises. i love my home-town why?It’s quite and green. i hate my home-town why?A bit too hot in the summer.

personal victory in 2013?More reading, less TV. i woulD love to #bbbconnect to... I’d like to create functional clothing items for local Organic Farmers and Growers, with their specific needs in mind. how was your first berlin experience?Fast and furious... had to build and install our stand in two days in a basement in Berlin, which served as a bomb shelter during WWII. first impression of breaD & butter at airport tempelhof? Awesome and inspiring! i waste too much time on?Watching TV... Netflix is amazingly evil! i secretly liKe to wear...Mismatched socks. my Daily recipe/aDDiction?Instagram who Do you liKe to introDuce anD why?Evan Morrison... this young man is about to be-come the second choice for US made Selvedge denim goods, by weaving denim on the 7 selvedge looms he owns.

www.risinGsunJeans.comtwitter.com/risinGsunJeansinstaGram.com/risinGsunJeans

i Got tricKeD into eatinG camel hump, anD it Doesn’t taste liKe chicKen.

who are you?I am Mike Hodis.

riGht...???Right on!

whats your instaGram?

@risingsunjeans

where you from oriGinally?I was born in Romania, and immigrated to the

States in 1982.

where Do you live liKe now?Pasadena, California

whats special there?

Pasadena is rich in design history and it also happens to be the birthplace of the Arts and

Crafts movement.

what’s your core hustle?Anything mechanical from the 20s & 30s.

any siDe-business?

Not a business, but a hobby. Buying, and trading antique industrial sewing machines.

how DiD you start?

8 years ago, out of my garage, with a handful of antique sewing machines I collected over the

years.

whats Drives you?Re-inventing the wheel.

Give us somethinG exclusive.

We just started making leather jackets.

most useD phrase/quote?This is good! Considering...

best buy in 2013

1920’s Salt and Pepper Chore Jacket, with removable ring back buttons.

worst buy in 2013

1962 Airstream trailer...too much of a project.

most inspirinG thinG you’ve Done in 2013

Race of Gentlemen

what Do you collect?Too many things.

most inspirinG place you’ve been?

Fly-fished the Kern River with no one around for miles.

Read the full interview in our

#BBBMAG at breadandbutter.

com


New York or London, but it will leave you disap-pointed and the city full of “permanent tourists”. An advice from a local: Do the city a favor and try to get stuff done! May this be as a coffee baris-ta, musician or journalist — it’s all good. Berlin doesn’t judge, as long as you manage to stay productive. Because in the end, it’s those who can cope with Berlin’s extreme life-life-work balance that actually add a significant value to the city’s development and are essential in help-ing Berlin profit from its big potential. But it’s a long way to the top. What we are facing right now is a city held hostage in a constant struggle between keeping its alternative image and being more than a big playground for hipsters, tourists and unemployed artists. A classic com-ing-of-age story? Maybe. However no other city worldwide is facing such an absurd imbalance as Berlin. Because what made Berlin so attractive in the first place was that dirty and poor look on its face, its wild at heart DNA. So how will this be possible to preserve when we all know Berlin is on the verge of finishing puberty? Looking back the past decades seemed like the teenage years of our hometown indeed. It went through stubborn phases, it was never good with money, it didn’t care about rules, stayed naive and full of idealism. It was fun while it lasted, but it is how it is and every kid has to face adulthood, every misfit will be pressured into assimilation.

You will find Berliners whining about how things are changing and you will find Berliners striving for international relevance (sometimes this might even be the same person). We want every-thing to stay the way it was — 10 years ago. At the same time we want our city to be taken seriously on an international scale, may this be in the fashion, start-up or art scene.

— Eeazyp & Hadnet Tesfai Editors — Bread & Butter, © Paul Ward Pictures

with an eventful CV our beloved city came a long way: after the roaring Weimar Republic and be-ing used and abused by historic dictatorship, it idealized its way

through the punk rock 70s and the era of squat-ted houses and wild techno scene in the 90s — and yet, or because of that, managed to hold a very unique appeal. While attracting mis-fit expats, creatives and free spirits searching for utopia, Berlin always wanted to stay wild at heart — an attitude encoded into its DNA.

Today things are changing more rapidly than they ever have. Berlin is a new playground for financial investment and thousands of new in-habitants surge into the city every year like gold diggers into the Wild West. It all happened in no time and Berlin is being put on the international maps faster than you can say “Schienenersatz-verkehr”. And since we all know that change can be good and bad, we also know that with fame comes big responsibility and expectations have to be met with reality. To every Yin there is a Yang. While international media are turning Berlin into the hot topic of the hour, the city is facing a truck load of new (and old) issues. Thanks to high-speed word of mouth (= internet) and a clever marketing campaign enforced by the local government, Berlin presents itself as the ideal place for young people and creative refugees. They all want a piece of the cake — get free, get inspired, get… hammered. This idea lures you in. Where else in Europe if not in Berlin? Rents are affordable, the lifestyle is laid back and you if you live in the right part of town you will have trouble finding neighbors over the age of 40. But Berlin doesn’t only want to attract the drunk bachelor party crowd from Bristol or the house DJ from Melbourne, the city has embraced an economic model that makes poverty pay, that turns it’s hip image into a new way of making sweet sweet dough. Our mayor puts more and

more emphasis on turning Berlin into Europe’s epicenter in the creative sector — a “Creative City”.The place to turn your ideas into reality and eventually: into a business model. Sounds awesome, doesn’t it? Well it does.

However this ambitious goal has lead to a num-ber of problems (some of which, like selling off public housing and a rising cost of living, we wont be able to discuss today). And if you do decide to pack your bags and want make your time here worthwhile, you best come prepared!

We see people moving here with expectations as high as they can get — with dreams of finding paradise. But while some are just taking it all in, are enjoying the fun, all the parties and all that cheap beer provided by a perfect laissez-faire infrastructure, others tend to struggle with actu-ally focusing on their craft and visions. We admit, it’s kind of hard to remember why you once came here in between excessive Berghain weekends, flea market strolls and the image of more people sitting in cafés than actually sitting at an office desk. Berlin is one big distraction. So check your-self before you wreck yourself, people! Because if you don’t show up with a set goal and an eager motivation to succeed, Berlin will eat you suckers up alive. The downfall won’t be as painful as in

a moDern iDentity crisiscalleD berlin

Berlin must be the most talked about metropolis of the hour. Go figure — It’s a mystified place with more

stories to tell than any other western capital.

havinG money anD payinG for stuff — anD you Don’t even have to flash it arounD or maKe it rain — is simply not that cool!


“If you are big in New York, you are big every-where. If you are big in Berlin, you’re big in Ber-lin.” — at least that’s the word on the streets. To hell with that! None of us want to be called out on it. We feel offended. Although: we never wanted to be New York anyhow. So what the funk is our problem? Well, there are a few things we do have in com-mon with the city that never sleeps. It’s not the bling bling, but it is the harsh big city syndromes: Berlin — like New York — is not a melting pot. Sure, there’s a big parade every year celebrat-ing multiculturalism and every splinter group kind of gathering of people with a somewhat different background will try to get organized and actually built a float. But so will a few live action role-playing clubs. Good for them. God bless them. Will these groups ever mingle in real life though? Probably not. Of course the same goes for every metropolis with enough space and enough inhabitants thus creating enough opportunities to stay amongst yours. In Berlin the separation goes deeper. An underground ride on the U8 illustrates how di-verse the city is: between Hermannstraße (the stop in the south) and Wittenau (the one in the north) you’ll have encounters with at least eight different groups of passengers that almost si-multaneously enter and exit the train on cue. The more settled, predominantly German crowd of oldschool Neukölln, followed by a colorful mix of immigrants from downtown Neukölln, pass-ing on the baton to the young G8-creatives of Kreuzkölln that share the space with alternatives from around Kotti. As you hit Mitte there’s a flood of tourists and financially stronger hipsters than the ones further south, who all get off as soon as they hit Wedding and are replaced by another mix of immigrants and working class passengers. They are later joined and then out crowded by another more settled and posh set of people who were born in that area and will probably always live there. Apart from having to share the same compartment on the train, these visibly distinct groups hardly have any-thing in common and there is not the slightest interest in social or emotional exchange.

However, more than by cultural differences, Berlin is separated by monetary interests. As mentioned before, being the crazy one in the family is something that runs deep in the veins of the city.

West Berlin was excluded from the compulsory military service until 1990, which led to thou-sands of young male Germans flocking onto the isolated island throughout the 1960s, 70s and 80s. Artists, students, musicians and punks, found a safe haven for their lifestyle, a place where financial status didn’t matter as much. Until today there are hardly any old family business-es, hardly any old money. In the 1990s it was more about cheap underground fun, clubs, drugs, ex-cess and overindulgence. It was during those innocent years, when everything was exciting, new and possible, and Berlin — all of a sudden — a safe place to live. You didn’t have to wor-ry about being blown up by some communist regime from the East just to prove a point. The cold war had ended, the festivities had just begun and who needed money when secret paaarteys were for free? The absence of serious money is something Ber-lin has been used to for decades. It is practically famous for it. It has cultivated the cheap chic kind of attitude where monetary funds raise nothing but eyebrows and suspicion. Especial-ly (not to say mainly) within the hip crowd who moved here seeking just that: a cheap but free lifestyle. Having money and paying for stuff — and you don’t even have to flash it around or make it rain — is simply not that cool. People will choose to stand in line for the guest list forever in the rain instead of just paying to get into the club, concert or party. Even though life as an in-kid requires quite a lot of dough: Have you checked prices for bikes, limited edi-tion sneakers or coffee these days? Sorry, we’re digressing. It’s only slooowly, slowly that this is changing: Ask the friendly folks over at Soho House Berlin about it. So forget the melting pot when you come here. Yeah, there is a colorful side of multicultural

harmony to the city, where neither ethnicity, cultural background nor social status matter – but you’ll have to look hard and work for it. And you need to be able to speak… English. Forget speaking German. Who cares about German, right? Working at a café and developing different projects on the side doesn’t require to actually know the language. English should do.

Forget being inspired by hangovers and finding a city that will give you an identity while its still looking for its own personality. Forget about all that. Instead, this is what you do when you come here: Make a plan. And stick to it.Get a paid job.Get a hobby.Pick a crew.Learn German. If you follow this simple guideline no one will be left disappointed and Berlin can turn into your own personal paradise — even as a rapidly changing and slowly establishing city. At the same time it’s important to be aware of what is happening around you. Berlin is thankful for every new inhabitant; its arms will always be wide open to. But like anything, it’s what you make of it. We just all need to respect this delicate stage that Berlin is in at the moment. And may-be, just maybe, if we all start to contribute — even if it’s just a little — this will remain the best place on earth.

forGet beinG inspireD by hanGovers anD finDinG a city that will Give you an iDentity while it’s still looKinG for its own personality.

Read the full article in our


com


breaDanDbutter.com

breaD & butter. 14—16 January 2014airport berlin-tempelhof

ich bin einberliner.—poGGy, tokyo


who are you?Kogi “Poggy” Motofumi

what’s your instaGram?

@poggytheman@unitedarrowsandsons

where you from oriGinally?

Sapporo, Japan.

where Do you live liKe now?Tokyo, Japan.

what is your role within

uniteD arrows?United Arrows Buyer, United Arrows &

Sons Director

best buy in 2013?Stüssy Bucket Hat!

most inspirinG thinG for you in toKyo?People on the street, it’s a pure craftsmanship.

most inspirinG place you’ve been?NYC always inspires me a lot. which DesiGner/branD Keeps on surprisinG you?For now I am really into PIGALLE from Paris and ART COMES FIRST from London. Their street taste combined with good quality reminds me of the roots of my own fashion. favorite banD/artist ?Japanese singer Eigo Kawashima, Public Enemy, Rage Against The Machine.

weirDest thinG you own?I have this 90s Hip Hop taste necklace made with beads and a medallion that says POGGY MASTER X.

usa, asia, europe or africa? why?I am interested in Africa for their good and open more simpler mind state on things. personal victory in 2013?We had a Larry Clark Stuff in Tokyo exhibition with Boohooray from New York. Larry Clark Stuff in Tokyo is a comprehensive overview of Larry’s books, films and influence. Telling the story with vintage polaroids, original 90s skateboards and skater t-shirts, original posters, proofs and manuscripts. i woulD love to #bbbconnect to ..... I would like to work with everyone – it just needs to be interesting!

how was your berlin experience?I thought the style of the men is more masculine then in any other city. It was very inspiring to see fashion scene in Berlin. first impression of breaD & butter at airport tempelhof? Definitely BBB at Airport Tempelhof is a very special tradeshow. I felt it is kind of Street style version of Pitti UOMO.

www.uniteD-arrows.Jpwww.instaGram.com/uniteDarrowsanDsons

i am really into piGalle from paris anD art comes first from lonDon.

i have this 90s hip hop taste necKlace maDe with beaDs anD a meDallion that says poGGy master x.

Read the full interview in our


com


— Joey W. Elgersma Author — Bread & Butter, © Paul Ward Pictures

are-production company that shared their uniqueness with me, explaining their definition of “ALL AMERICA-NO”. OG vintage garments vs. the perfect authentic replicas. At the end

of the day, it is all about two international kids playing catch on an indigo blue painted rooftop, talking about those “9 innings shut out games” and figuring out that life is pretty great if you do what you love. While we were in Japan we decided to jump on the bullet train to spend a day in the life with “Young Kento Tsujimoto” from “The Real Mc-Coy’s”. A 3 hour journey brought us to Shin-Ko-be station where we got picked up in a black on black A-team bus which drove us to the docks of Kobe. That’s where we reached our final destina-tion. The Home of “The Real McCoy’s”. A truly remarkable space, where you have the feeling to be inside a space shuttle ready to send you back in time where cowboys meet fighter pilots, where Andy Warhol’s factory is turned around into that “design” storage room of the US Army Air Force. This feeling brings me directly to the uniqueness of the brand, which can only exist in your world if you have a huge passion/obsession for spe-cific things like Mr. Tsujimoto does. Kento’s dad might be the biggest collector of original amer-ican vintage out there, but he started the business as a hobby when California was all about long hair, surfing & smoking pot in your VW camp-er. Stacking up originals and shipping them to Japan. That emotion, that inspiration is still the the aim and business philosophy of The Real McCoy’s today. The brand doesnt count with any designers in their team because everything they do is classic uniform reproduction – it’s all about function over fashion in the best way possible.

so much to write about, so much to show you! that’s why i DeciDeD to select some pictures anD let Kento caption them.

This is a story about my experience at the real McCoy’s HQ in Japan. a dive into their daily life. THeM showing us their personal interests, their archives and their passions.

the real mccoy’s

ich bin Kento tsuJimoto – instaGram: @KentotsuJimoto

501 levi’s collection. the Jeans ranGe from worlD war ii to the late 60’s.

bull Durham

Read the full story in our


com


we have 5 flaGship stores in Japan where we sell all proDucts we proDuce. in europe you can buy a really GooD selection at 14 oz.

Joey & me playinG catch on top of the warehouse. i woulD’ve easily strucK him out with my sliDer. my arm felt GooD that Day.

the real mccoy’s mfG. type a-2 JacKet.

vintaGe hawaiian shirts anD a part of our printeD t-shirt archive.

GoinG throuGh the sheep sKin for quality checK.

a piece of our military archive.

how many stores Do you have in Japan? anD where can people buy your proDucts? We have a very tightly controlled selection of wholesale accounts throughout Japan & the rest of the world. We have 5 flagship stores in Japan where we sell all products we produce. In europe you can buy a really good selection at 14 oz. please show us your favourite proDuct!One of our main jackets is the A-2 jacket which you can see on the below picture. It’s a reproduc-tion of the most praised flight jacket of the U.S. Air Force. The Real McCoy’s MFG. TYPE A-2 jackets feature a slimmer silhouette than it’s vintage predecessor.


introDucinG… younG Dexter navyDexter Navy (22) is a filmmaker and photographer from London. I met up with him for the first time during BBB a few seasons ago. Great kid.

— Joey W. Elgersma Author

we quickly found out that we have a lot of friends in common so before you know you meet again & again & again. Yeah. This is the perfect example of a #bbbconnect.

His pictures give me a great feeling. An uncensored ride through today’s youth culture. Navy’s been shooting and filming since he was 15 years old. Most of his work is done from London, Paris and Los Angeles, but with this specific eye on style & detail and with such a Hollywood name it makes sense we will see him all around the globe. Dexter is the first feature in our introDucinG series.

we are sharinG 10 imaGes, 10 moments of his life with you.

#bbbconnect with Dexter:dexternavy.tumblr.comi-donline.com/authors/dexter-navy@dexternavy

braDley saviou for left shoe

still broKe

rocK a hoola bbc looK-booK

nicK wooster in veGas

49 seconDs fo shoot flacKo

eatinG pizza with Gryphon o’shea

ian connor on venice beach

theophilus lonDon for i-D maGazine

portobello roaD

the fence

Read the full article in our


com


#bbbmaG news

Highlighting industry news, product novelties and exclusive inside stories of profes sionals and interesting characters, the magazine is a full online experience with much to discover, just like we know it from those days at our venue at Tempelhof.

coDy is bacK

GooD life GooD fooD – asian DeliGhts

DaviD lachapelle x happy socKs

introDucinG KottÉ

relaunch of JunK De luxe

samsØe & samsØe fw14

Dr. Denim JeansmaKers – they cannot stop us!

bbb music of the weeK

We are super happy to inform you that Cody is back at BREAD & BUTTER! – Read More Online

Yumyummy! We’ve teamed up with some true experts for your next visit – Read More Online

For this collaboration Happy Socks chose an approach that would make – Read More Online

The association between Jesús Ming and Doms. After struggling in diffe – Read More Online

Did you know? JUNK de LUXE has been restruc-tured and is now ready to – Read More Online

We are excited to share the journey of designer duo Mia Kappelgaard & – Read More Online

We believe that everyone has the right to wear as tight pants as they – Read More Online

What we’ve been listening to this week(end) – Read More Online

Check out our news section in #BBBMAG at

breadandbutter.com

SHOP ONLINE AT DRYKORN.COM

Preview 17

PLATZ DERLUFTBRÜCKE

ENTRANCEEXIT

HALL 2

HALL 1

restaurant

Café

wardrobe

b&b PubliCations

info Point

toilets

toilets for disabled

Main entranCe/exit

tiCket sCan

teChniCal offiCe

General aviation terMinal

visitor shuttle 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.

Metro

ParkinG fixed prices

b&b airPort & Cit y shuttle 3.30 p.m. – 7.30 p.m. every 30 minutes to txl tegel, sxf schönefeld,s+u alexanderplatz

taxi t. +49 (0)30 26 10 26 t. +49 (0)30 44 33 22 t. +49 (0)30 20 20 20

first aid/erste hilfe t. +49 (0)30 816 90 13 90

tuesday & wednesday: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. thursday: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

you can access our wireless internet conection throughout the whole exhibition area.

loGin:wi-fi network: breadandbutterusername: bbbPassword: berlin

breadandbutter winter 2014

— all brands,booth listingsand hallmaps

airPort teMPelhof: areas overview

welCoMe toairPort teMPelhof

leGend

oPeninG tiMes

wi-fi ConneCtion

Contenturban fashion hall 1 18hall 2 19

urban base Part 1 + d.o.C.k. 20Part 2 21

urban suPerior hall 1 + treasury 22hall 2 23

l.o.C.k. & fire dePt. 24

alPhabetiCal brand index 25

FIN

D A

LL

B&B CAFÉS & RESTA

UR

AN

TS •

F O O D & D R I N K •

Area Guide

18 Preview breadandbutter winter 2014A r e A Guide

urban fashion—hall 1

—booth listinG —CaterinG!Solid H3.10alife & famous H3.2.2alife and kickin H3.2.2Allinclusive Apparel H3.5Anerkjendt H3.26Angelia & Pets H3.20.4Anvil H3.7BOOM BAP WEAR H3.30.1Brigitte Bardot H3.18.2Candy For Richmen H3.13.2CNSRD H3.2.2Cuckoos Nest H3.22.1Culture H3.29Desires H3.10Ecattus H3.21.4ELEKTRODE H3.12.1Everlast H3.13.3FAGUO H3.22.2Fat Moose H3.24.2Friis Co. H3.30.2GABBA H3.24.1Gardenia Copenhagen H3.19.1Geddes & Gilmore H3.15.1Gnious H3.14.2gsus sindustries H3.25HUB Footwear H3.15.2Humör H3.26HYMN H3.16.2Impure H3.21.6Inkkas H3.20.3ithinkso H3.23.2Juju Shoes H3.18.3Just Junkies H3.24.2KOAH H3.17.1Komrad Invasion H3.21.8KOTTÉ H3.21.7Kronstadt H3.24.2L1 Premium Goods H3.14.3Lindbergh H3.6.1LOGOSH!RT H3.2.3Lonsdale H3.3

Louche H3.16.2mbyM H3.28minimum H3.16.1Minnetonka H3.18.1Mipacha H3.21.3muchacho H3.20.2Myboo H3.21.6Naketano H3.12.3nANA jUDY H3.19.2Napp Jeans H3.14.4Natural World H3.13.4Nena & Pasadena H3.23.1Noble Project H3.21.2NudeAudio H3.21.9nümph H3.26OILL H3.30.2One Wolf H3.20.1OnePiece H3.8PeleCheCoco H3.19.1POP BOUTIQUE, Vintage Clothing Company H3.12.2Quay Eyeware Australia H3.22.3Satorisan H3.24.3Serge Pariente H3.14.1Seven Tees H3.18.4Shine H3.6.2Shoe Biz Copenhagen H3.19.1StepArt H3.23.3Sweet Pants H3.17.2Sweet Years H3.2.1Tailored by Solid H3.11.2Vagabond H3.27Volley Australia H3.13.1Weekend Offender H3.11.1White Tent H3.21.1XXL Hardwear H3.21.5

Just Junkies

Fat Moose

H3.10!Solid,Desires

H3.25gsus sindustries

H3.11.1WeekendOffender

H3.16.1minimum

H3.17.1KOAH

H3.27Vagabond

H3.28mbyM

H3.29Culture

H3.30.1BOOM BAP WEAR

H3.14.2Gnious

H3.24.1GABBA

H3.6.2Shine

H3.26Humör, nümph

H3.30.2OILL, Friis Co.

H3.24.2Kronstadt

H3.24.3Satorisan

H3.18.2BrigitteBardot

H3.18.1Minne-tonka

H3.15.1Geddes & Gilmore

H3.14.1SergePariente

H3.18.3JuJu Shoes

H3.19.2nANA jUDY

H3.16.2Louche, HYMN

H3.17.2Sweet Pants

H3.18.4SevenTees

H3.21.1White Tent

H3.22.1CuckoosNest

H3.11.2Tailoredby Solid

H3.19.1Gardenia Copenhagen,

ShoeBiz Copenhagen,PeleCheCoco

H3.23.1Nena &

Pasadena

H3.23.2ithinkso

H3.12.1ELEKTRODE

H3.12.2POP BOUTIQUE,Vintage ClothingCompany

H3.3Lonsdale

H3.2.1Sweet Years

H3.2.2alife and kickin, alife & famous, CNSRD

H3.6.1Lindbergh

H3.7Anvil

H3.13.4Natural

World

H3.14.4Napp Jeans

H3.20.1One Wolf

H3.20.2muchachoH3.20.3Inkkas

H3.12.3Naketano

H3.13.1VolleyAustralia

H3.13.2Candy forRichmen

H3.22.2FAGUO

H3.22.3QuayEyewareAustralia

H3.21.2Noble Project

H3.21.4Ecattus

H3.21.3Mipacha

H3.21.5XXL Hardwear

H3.21.6Myboo, Impure

H3.21.8KOMRAD

INVASION

H3.21.7KOTTÉ

H3.20.4Angelia & Pets

H3.14.3L1 PremiumGoods

H3.8OnePiece

H3.23.3StepArt

H3.13.3Everlast

H3.2.3LOGO-SH!RT

H3.21.9NudeAudio

TAPAS BAR BY BAR RAVAL

H3.15.2HUB Footwear H3.6.1

Lindbergh

H3.26Anerkjendt

H3.5Allinclusive Apparel

SERVICE

SHOP

L.O.C

.K.

URBAN BASE

URBAN SUPERIOR HALL

1

TRENSFORUM

URBAN FASHION HALL 2

UPPER STREET

URBA

N SU

PERI

OR H

ALL 1

URBA

N SU

PERI

OR H

ALL 2

URBA

N SU

PERI

OR H

ALL 2


AIRLIFT BISTRO

Fräulein Wild

BBBPRESS

LOUNGE

BBB

MAGAZINE

LOUNGE

WARDROBE

MOGG &

MELZER

PINTXO BAR BY BAR RAVAL

HALL 1

taPas & boCadillos Caterer: Bar RavalPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 80oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m.Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.

by

Preview 19 breadandbutter winter 2014 A r e A Guide

urban fashion—hall 2

—booth listinG —CaterinG’snoboot H4.12.3ANNA SCOTT H4.14.2Antonyme by Nat & Nin H4.21.1Australia Luxe Collective H4.21.2b.young H4.10.4Best Mountain H4.21.4Birkenstock H4.3.1Blend H4.5BlendShe H4.11.3Buffalo H4.18.2Canadian Classics H4.19.1CARTOON H4.3.2Ca’Shott H4.19.4Colors of California H4.19.1Compañia Fantastica H4.19.2Coolway H4.25.2Cream H4.10.1Crocs H4.1.3Cubanas H4.1.5Deby Debo H4.20.1Derhy H4.11.1EMU Australia H4.27.1erfurt luxury accessories H4.25.1Fever London H4.14.1Fly London H4.1.1fransa H4.10.3Fritzi aus Preußen H4.24.1Gaudì H4.2Ginger+Soul H4.16.1Gipsy H4.26.1Glamorous H4.23.2ICHI H4.22kaffe H4.10.2King Louie H4.15Kling H4.13.2KuSan H4.13.6Lavand H4.16.1Little Mistress H4.11.4Luxalicious H4.12.2Maze H4.4mint. H4.20.3

Mismash H4.6Molly Bracken H4.16.2Nat & Nin H4.21.1nice things Paloma S H4.21.3NOVESTA H4.21.5Oilily H4.24.2Papillio H4.3.1Paramita H4.6Riverside H4.13.1Rocket Dog H4.1.4Saint Tropez H4.11.2Sendra Boots H4.13.5SisterS Point H4.18.1Slang Barcelona H4.19.3smash! H4.6SNOB de NOBLESSE H4.27.2St-Martins H4.27.2SUPE H4.20.4Surkana H4.17TEN POINTS H4.12.1terre & mer H4.13.4Victoria H4.20.2Yerse H4.23.1Yumi H4.26.2Zilch H4.13.3ZWEI H4.13.7

Coffeelounge

H4.6smash!, Mismash,Paramita

H4.10.1Cream

H4.5Blend

H4.4Maze

H4.3.1Birkenstock,Papillio

H4.3.2CARTOON

H4.2Gaudi

H4.1.3Crocs

H4.13.4terre

& mer

H4.16.1Lavand,Ginger + Soul

H4.17Surkana

H4.18.1SisterSPoint

H4.22ICHIH4.23.1

YerseH4.24.1Fritzi ausPreußen

H4.25.1erfurt luxuryaccessories

H4.26.1Gipsy

H4.27.1EMU Australia

H4.19.1Colors ofCalifornia,Canadian Classics

H4.13.3Zilch

H4.11.1Derhy

H4.11.2Saint Tropez

H4.18.2Buffalo

H4.16.2Molly Bracken

H4.23.2Glamorous

H4.10.2kaffe

H4.10.3fransa

H4.10.4b.youngH4.11.4

Little Mistress

H4.11.3Blend She

H4.14.2ANNASCOTT

H4.14.1FeverLondon

H4.20.1DebyDebo

H4.21.1Nat & Nin,Antonyme

by Nat & Nin

H4.15King Louie

H4.20.2Victoria

H4.27.2St-Martins, SNOB de NOBLESSE

H4.12.3’snoboot

H4.13.1Riverside

H4.19.2Compañia-fantastica

H4.20.4SUPE

H4.20.3mint.

H4.12.2Luxalicious

H4.13.7Zwei

H4.13.2Kling

H4.19.3Slang

Barcelona

H4.19.4Ca’Shott

H4.21.2Australia Luxe Collective

H4.21.3nice things,PalomaS

H4.25.2Coolway

H4.13.5SendraBoots

H4.26.2Yumi

H4.24.2Oilily

H4.12.1TEN

POINTS

H4.21.4Best Mountain

H4.21.5NOVESTA

H4.1.1Fly London

H4.1.4Rocket Dog

H4.1.5Cubanas

H4.13.6KuSan

MISS WILD’S SWEETS

SERVICE

SHOP

L.O.C

.K.

URBAN BASE

URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1

URBAN BASE


UPPER STREET

URBAN SUPERIO

R HALL 1

URBAN SUPERIOR HALL

2

URBA

N SU

PERI

OR H

ALL 2

BESTSELLER GROUP

FLEAMARKET

D.O.

C.K.

BBBPRESS

LOUNGE

BBB

MAGAZINE

LOUNGE

WARDROBE

MOGG &

MELZER


CRAFTSMAN'S CANTEEN

OUT L.O.C.K.

HALL 2

hoMeMade Cakes & Coffee Caterer: Fräulein WildPayMent: Cash onlyseats: 45oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.

20 Preview breadandbutter winter 2014A r eA Guide

urban base & d.o.C.k.—Part 1

—booth listinG urban base

—booth listinG d.o.C.k.

—CaterinG’47 Brand A 42.1American College USA A 63.2Bench. A 30Blutsgeschwister A 53Bogner Jeans A 34BRANDBLACK A 62.1Brooks Heritage A 41.1Brunotti A 60.1Buff A 58.1Calvin Klein Footwear A 52.1Calvin Klein Jeans Footwear A 52.1Cheapo A 62.3Chunk A 58.2CR7 – Cristiano Ronaldo A 56Clarks Originals A 41.3Clarks Sportswear A 41.3Converse A 31Creative Recreation A 63.3.2DEDICATED A 62.3diadora A 38Dickies A 42.2Dr. Denim Jeansmakers A 48Dr. Martens A 57.2

ELEVENPARIS A 37elvine A 59FAME ON YOU PARIS A 49.1FILA A 43Franklin & Marshall A 36.2Freeman T. Porter A 44Gola Classics A 55Hickory Smoke A 57.1Indicode Jeans A 52.2Japan Rags A 54.1JIMMY’Z A 63.5K-Way A 51.2KangaROOS A 61.1Kappa A 63.4khujo A 45KOMONO A 64.3KUYICHI A 49.2Le Coq Sportif A 43le temps des cerises A 54.1Legend Belts A 49.3LOSERS A 64.1Majestic Athletic A 64.2Manhattan Portage A 62.2

Maui and Sons A 63.5mavi A 32Mr. GUGU & Miss GO A 60.2Mustang A 34Native Youth A 61.2New Balance A 40.2one green elephant A 47Onitsuka Tiger A 50PALLADIUM A 39Pantofola D’Oro A 43Panuu A 62.4Petrol Industries A 46ragwear A 41.2Redskins Territory A 35Reebok Classic A 36.1Resteröds A 56Rothco A 63.3.1RVLT / Revolution A 40.3Sansibar Denim A 34Superga A 51.1Supremebeing A 63.1TheLabelFinder A 54.2

A Cut Above D 3.2Bobby Fresh D 6.1Daily Paper D 1.2DSSENT D 6.6FIRMAMENT D 2.1

GODLY D 6.4HEX D 4Jilted Royalty D 1.1Karl Alley D 6.2LES (ART)ISTS D 6.5

LIGNE CINQ LIMITED D 6.3Muschi Kreuzberg D 3.1New Black D 2.2Ransom D 3.3

BISTRO3 MINUTES!

Coffeelounge

A 3Silvian Heach

A 21NZA New Zealand Auckland

A 5CAMPUS

A 1Strellson Premium,

Strellson Sportswear

A 2Nickelson

A 17Moon Boot,Dolomite

A 23Desigual

A 22Napapijri

A 15.1Puffa

A 15.2Circle ofTrustA 14.1

Aeronautica Militare – Collezione Privata

A 27PME Legend

A 13.2Voi Jeans Co.

A 6TOM TAILOR

A 7Alpha Industries

A 11Cowboysbelt

A 12.1rich & royal

A 10.1TOMS

A 8HAMAKI-HO

A 4Antony MoratoA 10.2

HappySocks

A 16.1DSTREZZED

A 25Fornarina

A 14.2DEELUXE Est.74

A 9.2Donkey Products

A 9.3SportswearInternational

A 15.4EINSTEIN &

NEWTON

A 15.3Steve Madden

A 16.2Affliction Clothing

A 26Liu Jo

A 28Marc O’Polo

A 30Bench.

A 13.1Nobis

A 12.2Herrlicher

A 29Scotch&Soda

Maison Scotch

A 12.3TextilWirtschaft

A 9.4mode...information

A 20Lacoste Footwear

A 24Timberland

A 32mavi

A 35RedskinsTerritory

A 36.1ReebokClassic

A 36.2Franklin & Marshall

A 38diadora

A 39PALLADIUM

A 63.1Supremebeing

A 62.1BRANDBLACK

A 59elvine

A 53Bluts-geschwister

A 52.2Indicode Jeans

A 47one green elephant

A 46PetrolIndustries

A 45khujo

A 44Freeman T.Porter

A 42.1’47 Brand

A 41.1Brooks

Heritage

A 49.1FAME ON YOUPARIS

A 52.1Calvin Klein Footwear,Calvin Klein JeansFootwearA 43

FILA,Le Coq Sportif,Pantofola D’Oro

A 37ELEVENPARIS

A 9.1new era

A 34Mustang,Bogner Jeans,Sansibar Denim

A 48Dr. DenimJeansmakers

A 54.2TheLabelFinder

A 63.3.1Rothco

A 50Onitsuka Tiger

A 31Converse

A 54.1le temps des cerises, Japan Rags

A 56CR7 – Cristiano Ronaldo,Resteröds

A 55GolaClassics

A 58.2Chunk

A 57.1HickorySmoke

G2WAD

A 57.2Dr.Martens

A 58.1Buff

A 41.3ClarksOriginals,Clarks Sportswear

A 40.2New Balance

A 40.3RVLT/Revolution

D.O.

C.K.

A 42.2Dickies

A 49.2KUYICHI

A 49.3Legend Belts

A 51.1Superga

A 51.2K-Way

A 60.1Brunotti

A 61.1KangaROOS

A 62.2ManhattanPortage

A 63.2AmericanCollege USAA 63.4

Kappa

A 64.2MajesticAthletic

A 64.1LOSERS

D 1.2Daily Paper

D 2.1FIRMA-

MENT

D 1.1JiltedRoyalty

D 2.2New Black

D 3.3Ransom

D 3.1MuschiKreuzberg

D 3.2A Cut Above

D 4HEX

D 6.1Bobby Fresh

D 6.2KarlAlley

D 6.3LIGNE CINQ LIMITED

D 6.4GODLY

D 6.5LES(ART)ISTS

A 62.3Dedicated,Cheapo

A 62.4Panuu

A 61.2Native Youth

D 6.6DSSENT

A 60.2Mr. GUGU &Miss GO

A 64.3KOMONO

D.O.C.K.FIRST FLOOR

A 41.2ragwear

AIRFIELDBISTRO

A 63.5JIMMY’Z,Maui and

Sons

G1WeAr

G3J’N’C

A 63.3.2Creative

Recreation

WAD

A 9.5Custo Barcelona

DJ

SERVICE

SHOP

L.O.C.K.

FIRE D

EPT.

FIRE D

EPT.





UPPER STREET




UPPER STREET

BESTSELLER GROUP

FLEAMARKET

TREASURY

TREASURY

TREASURY

D.O.C.K.


B&BPRESSLOUNGE

B&B MAGAZINE

LOUNGEB&B WARDROBE


CRAFTSMAN'S CANTEEN

OUT L.O.C.K.

HALLIGAN'S

B&B COFFEE LOUNGE

B&B FOOD GATES

Coffee, drinks & sandwiChes Caterer: B&BPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 60oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 9 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 9 a.m. — 6 p.m.

AIRFIELD BISTRO

Preview 21 breadandbutter winter 2014 A r eA Guide

urban base—Part 2

—booth listinG —CaterinGAeronautica Militare – Collezione Privata A 14.1Affliction Clothing A 16.2Alpha Industries A 7Antony Morato A 4CAMPUS A 5Circle of Trust A 15.2Cowboysbelt A 11Custo Barcelona A 9.5DEELUXE Est.74 A 14.2Desigual A 23Dolomite A 17Donkey Products A 9.2DSTREZZED A 16.1EINSTEIN & NEWTON A 15.4Fornarina A 25HAMAKI-HO A 8Happy Socks A 10.2Herrlicher A 12.2J’N’C G 3Lacoste Footwear A 20Liu Jo A 26Maison Scotch A 29Marc O’Polo A 28mode... information A 9.4Moon Boot A 17NZA New Zealand Auckland A 21Napapijri A 22new era A 9.1Nickelson A 2Nobis A 13.1PME Legend A 27Puffa A 15.1rich&royal A 12.1Scotch & Soda A 29Silvian Heach A 3Sportswear International A 9.3Steve Madden A 15.3Strellson Premium A 1Strellson Sportswear A 1TextilWirtschaft A 12.3Timberland A 24

TOM TAILOR A 6TOMS A 10.1Voi Jeans Co. A 13.2WAD Magazine G 2WeAr Magazine G 1

BISTRO3 MINUTES!

Coffeelounge

A 3Silvian Heach

A 21NZA New Zealand Auckland

A 5CAMPUS

A 1Strellson Premium,

Strellson Sportswear

A 2Nickelson

A 17Moon Boot,Dolomite

A 23Desigual

A 22Napapijri

A 15.1Puffa

A 15.2Circle ofTrustA 14.1

Aeronautica Militare – Collezione Privata

A 27PME Legend

A 13.2Voi Jeans Co.

A 6TOM TAILOR

A 7Alpha Industries

A 11Cowboysbelt

A 12.1rich & royal

A 10.1TOMS

A 8HAMAKI-HO

A 4Antony MoratoA 10.2

HappySocks

A 16.1DSTREZZED

A 25Fornarina

A 14.2DEELUXE Est.74

A 9.2Donkey Products

A 9.3SportswearInternational

A 15.4EINSTEIN &

NEWTON

A 15.3Steve Madden

A 16.2Affliction Clothing

A 26Liu Jo

A 28Marc O’Polo

A 30Bench.

A 13.1Nobis

A 12.2Herrlicher

A 29Scotch&Soda

Maison Scotch

A 12.3TextilWirtschaft

A 9.4mode...information

A 20Lacoste Footwear

A 24Timberland

A 32mavi

A 35RedskinsTerritory

A 36.1ReebokClassic

A 36.2Franklin & Marshall

A 38diadora

A 39PALLADIUM

A 63.1Supremebeing

A 62.1BRANDBLACK

A 59elvine

A 53Bluts-geschwister

A 52.2Indicode Jeans

A 47one green elephant

A 46PetrolIndustries

A 45khujo

A 44Freeman T.Porter

A 42.1’47 Brand

A 41.1Brooks

Heritage

A 49.1FAME ON YOUPARIS

A 52.1Calvin Klein Footwear,Calvin Klein JeansFootwearA 43

FILA,Le Coq Sportif,Pantofola D’Oro

A 37ELEVENPARIS

A 9.1new era

A 34Mustang,Bogner Jeans,Sansibar Denim

A 48Dr. DenimJeansmakers

A 54.2TheLabelFinder

A 63.3.1Rothco

A 50Onitsuka Tiger

A 31Converse

A 54.1le temps des cerises, Japan Rags

A 56CR7 – Cristiano Ronaldo,Resteröds

A 55GolaClassics

A 58.2Chunk

A 57.1HickorySmoke

G2WAD

A 57.2Dr.Martens

A 58.1Buff

A 41.3ClarksOriginals,Clarks Sportswear

A 40.2New Balance

A 40.3RVLT/Revolution

D.O.

C.K.

A 42.2Dickies

A 49.2KUYICHI

A 49.3Legend Belts

A 51.1Superga

A 51.2K-Way

A 60.1Brunotti

A 61.1KangaROOS

A 62.2ManhattanPortage

A 63.2AmericanCollege USAA 63.4

Kappa

A 64.2MajesticAthletic

A 64.1LOSERS

D 1.2Daily Paper

D 2.1FIRMA-

MENT

D 1.1JiltedRoyalty

D 2.2New Black

D 3.3Ransom

D 3.1MuschiKreuzberg

D 3.2A Cut Above

D 4HEX

D 6.1Bobby Fresh

D 6.2KarlAlley

D 6.3LIGNE CINQ LIMITED

D 6.4GODLY

D 6.5LES(ART)ISTS

A 62.3Dedicated,Cheapo

A 62.4Panuu

A 61.2Native Youth

D 6.6DSSENT

A 60.2Mr. GUGU &Miss GO

A 64.3KOMONO

D.O.C.K.FIRST FLOOR

A 41.2ragwear

AIRFIELDBISTRO

A 63.5JIMMY’Z,Maui and

Sons

G1WeAr

G3J’N’C

A 63.3.2Creative

Recreation

WAD

A 9.5Custo Barcelona

DJ

SERVICE

SHOP

L.O.C.K.

FIRE D

EPT.

FIRE D

EPT.





UPPER STREET




UPPER STREET

BESTSELLER GROUP

FLEAMARKET

TREASURY

TREASURY

TREASURY

D.O.C.K.


B&BPRESSLOUNGE

B&B MAGAZINE

LOUNGEB&B WARDROBE


CRAFTSMAN'S CANTEEN

OUT L.O.C.K.

HALLIGAN'S

B&B COFFEE LOUNGE

B&B FOOD GATES

roastbeef, “berliner buletten”, salad & Pasta Caterer: B&BPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 340oPen: Tue. — Thu.: 11 a.m. — 5 p.m.

Coffee, drinks & sandwiChes Caterer: B&BPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 40oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.

FOOD GATES


urban suPerior & treasury—hall 1

—booth listinG urban suPerior —CaterinG8MN H5.19.4Ana Helen H5.19.1aunts&uncles H5.24.1Barts H5.12bedacht H5.19.7Bensimon Collection H5.23.2Bickley+Mitchell H5.23.4Blaumax H5.21.4CARRERA H5.1CODELLO H5.14DAWN H5.21.3Death by Zero H5.21.1Durango Leather Company H5.22.3ESKA H5.24.2ESKEY H5.18.4European Culture H5.17flip*flop H5.20.1Floris van Bommel H5.16FREDsBRUDER H5.21.2GEORGE GINA & LUCY H5.20.3Giesswein H5.24.3GOLDMUD H5.22.2goosecraft H5.11

Jacques Britt H5.2Lemon Jelly H5.23.1LPB Shoes H5.25.2Minus H5.13.1modström H5.13.2Nokian Footwear H5.23.3OAKWOOD H5.22.1pavuna H5.19.5Samsøe & Samsøe H5.10Schiesser Revival H5.19.8SET H5.15SHENDORA H5.19.2SOIA & KYO H5.18.1Sorel H5.25.1STYLESNOB H5.19.9The Original Muck Boot Company H5.18.3Twist & Tango H5.20.2Valerie H5.18.2We love Jeans H5.19.3

AB AETERNO H5.4.2ARTILLERYLANE H5.4.7BELTION bag H5.4.10Boudoir des Lubies – Paris H5.4.14CASHMERE’N’PEARL H5.4.4FAHRER H5.4.3K and J H5.4.13

MAKO BAGS H5.4.15Neonneid H5.4.16Palo H5.4.18Pisidia H5.4.9wewood H5.4.18Wood’d H5.4.18ZIIIRO H5.4.11

BISTRO3 MINUTES!

Coffeelounge

H5.15SETH5.14

CODELLOH5.13.1Minus

H5.12Barts

H5.11Goosecraft

H5.2Jacques Britt

H5.10Samsøe &Samsøe

H5.16FlorisvanBommel

H5.21.4Blaumax

H5.23.1Lemon Jelly

H5.22.1OAKWOOD

H5.23.3NokianFootwear

H5.23.2BensimonCollection

H5.23.4Bickley+Mitchell

H5.24.1aunts&uncles H5.25.2

LPBShoes

H5.25.1Sorel

H5.21.3Dawn

H5.21.1Death by Zero

H5.20.1flip*flop

H5.18.1SOIA & KYO

H5.17European Culture

H5.22.2GOLDMUD

H5.22.3Durango LeatherCompany

H5.21.2FREDsBRUDER

H5.18.2Valerie

H5.18.3The Original MuckBoot Company

H5.18.4ESKEY

H5.24.2Eska

H5.24.3Giesswein

H5.19.8SchiesserRevival

H5.19.9STYLESNOB

H5.20.2Twist & Tango

H5.20.3GEORGE GINA & LUCY

H5.13.2modström

H5.4.16neonneid

H5.4.8reserved

H5.4.7ARTILLERYLANE

H5.4.6Palo, wewood

H5.4.4CASHMERE ’N’PEARL

H5.4.3Fahrer

H5.4.2ABAETERNO

H5.4.9Pisidia H5.4.10

Beltion Bag

H5.4.11Ziiiro

H5.4.12reserved

H5.4.13K and J

H5.4.14Boudoirdes Lubies – Paris

H5.4.15MAKOBags

H5.1CARRERA

H5.19.1Ana Helen

H5.19.2SHENDORA

H5.19.3We love

Jeans

H5.19.48MN

H5.19.5pavuna

H5.19.7bedacht

H5.4.18Wood’d

FIRE DEPT.

FIRE DEPT.

URBAN BASE

URBAN BASE




UPPER STREET



UPPER STREET

BESTSELLER GROUP

FLEAMARKET

TREASURY

TREASURY

TREASURY

D.O.C.K.


AIRLIFT BISTRO

BBB MAGAZINE LOUNGE

WARDROBE

BERLINKAFFEE

DELI

CRAFTSMAN'S CANTEEN

OUT L.O.C.K.

HALLIGAN'S

TREASURY

Coffee, drinks & snaCks Caterer: Tres CabezasPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 30oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m.Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.

—booth listinG treasury


urban suPerior—hall 2

—booth listinG —CaterinGA Fish Named Fred H6.3Alan Rust H6.28.3Atelier Scotch H6.6Barbour International™ H6.18Ben Sherman H6.17.2BendorffPolo Club H6.25.2Bertoni H6.33.1Blackstone H6.23.1Blick. H6.22.5Bruun & Stengade H6.15.2camel active H6.5CG - Club of Gents H6.2.2CINQUE H6.14CINQUE BAGS H6.29.2DKNY Active Shoes H6.28.1DRYKORN H6.20Duck and Cover H6.28.2EDUARD DRESSLER H6.7Exibit H6.21.2FORBES & LEWIS H6.22.4Frank Wright H6.30.2GANT Footwear H6.2.1GANT Men/Woman H6.2.1J&JOY H6.29.1Jaggy H6.12.1JAGVI H6.31.5JOHNNYLOVE H6.31.3JOOP! H6.10Junk de Luxe H6.24.1Karhu Originals H6.24.2KARL LAGERFELD MENS H6.1KnowledgeCotton Apparel H6.30.1Künzli Classic H6.24.5LAGERFELD H6.1LUPACO Munich H6.31.4M.Moustache H6.22.3Mouli H6.32.1MOVE by Digel H6.4MUNICH H6.33.2nabholz H6.13.1NAGANO H6.26.1

NOBRAND H6.25.1Original Penguin H6.11Oscar Jacobson H6.17.1Oscar of Sweden H6.24.4Piper Maru H6.29.3Purple Label by Benvenuto H6.27.2R2 Westbrook H6.32.2Refrigue H6.12.1Rehard H6.21.1RIORIM H6.28.3Robert Graham H6.23.3SENNES H6.24.3Shoe the Bear H6.22.2Stockman H6.31.1SUIT H6.15.1TEE LIBRARY H6.24.6Tiger of Sweden H6.19UBER H6.22.1van Laack H6.26.2Victorinox H6.13.2VIP FLAP H6.27.1VITO H6.30.3windsor. H6.16ZOHAC H6.27.3

BISTRO3 MINUTES!

Coffeelounge

H6.30.1KnowledgeCottonApparel

H6.30.2Frank Wright

H6.31.1Stockman

H6.30.3VITO

H6.7EDUARD DRESSLERH6.1

LAGERFELD, KARL LAGERFELD MEN’S H6.4

Move by Digel

H6.2.1GANT Men/Women,GANT Footwear

H6.5camel active

H6.2.2CG – Club of Gents

H6.3A Fishnamed Fred

PANE & BURRO

H6.11OriginalPenguin

H6.12.1Refrigue H6.13.1

nabholzH6.14CINQUE

H6.15.1SUIT

H6.16windsor.

H6.17.1OscarJacobson

H6.18Barbour International

H6.19Tiger of Sweden

H6.20DRYKORNH6.33.1

BertoniH6.32.1Mouli

H6.26.1NAGANO

H6.27.1VIP FLAP

H6.23.1Blackstone

H6.25.2BendorffPolo Club

H6.25.1NOBRAND

H6.21.1Rehard

H6.29.1J&JOY

H6.28.1DKNYActive Shoes

H6.22.2Shoe theBear

H6.24.1Junk de Luxe

H6.24.2Karhu Originals

H6.24.3SENNES

H6.24.5Künzli

Classic

H6.24.6TEE LIBRARY

H6.23.3RobertGraham

H6.29.2CINQUE BAGS

H6.28.2Duck and Cover

H6.33.2MUNICHH6.32.2

R2 Westbrook

H6.17.2Ben Sherman

H6.13.2Victorinox

H6.12.2Jaggy

H6.22.1UBER H6.21.2

Exibit

H6.29.3Piper Maru

H6.22.3M.

Moustache

H6.22.4FORBES &LEWIS

H6.22.5Blick.

H6.6Atelier Scotch

H6.26.2van Laack

H6.24.4Oscar ofSweden

H6.27.2Purple Labelby Benvenuto

H6.27.3ZOHAC

H6.28.3RIORIM,Alan Rust

H6.15.2Bruun &Stengade

H6.10JOOP!

H6.31.2Sneaky Steve

H6.31.3JOHNNYLOVE

H6.31.4LUPACOMunich

H6.31.5Jagvi

H6.6Atelier Scotch

H6.31.5Jagvi

SERVICESHOP

L.O.C.K.


TRENSFORUM

URBAN BASE





UPPER STREET

BESTSELLER GROUP

FLEAMARKET

TREASURY

TREASURY

TREASURY

D.O.C.K.


AIRLIFT BISTRO

Fräulein Wild

BBBPRESSLOUNGE

BBB MAGAZINE LOUNGE

WARDROBE

antiPasti & Panini Caterer: Tres CabezasPayMent: Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 80oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.


l.o.C.k. & fire dePt.—labels of CoMMon kin

—booth listinG l.o.C.k.

—booth listinG fire dePt.

—CaterinGAce Boots H7.8.4Aigle H7.19.2Armor Lux H7.39Arpenteur H7.33.4Bailey of Hollywood H7.40.2Blauer H7.5Bleu de Chauffe H7.33.3Blue de Gênes H7.43.2Blundstone H7.32.3BOWERY H7.43.1BPD H7.5BRIXTOL H7.32.2Brown’s Beach Jacket H7.8.2BUTTERO H7.30.2Canada Goose H7.17.2Care label H7.42.2Carhartt Work In Progress H7.14Claes Göran H7.28.2CLOSED H7.2CLUTCH Magazine H7.8.9CODE magazine H7.16Corgi H7.34.2DENHAM H7.3.1Denimhunters H7.8.14Deus Ex Machina H7.25Dubarry of Ireland H7.34.1DUKES Finest Artisan H7.29.2

Early Hollywood H7.8.4ECCO Leather H7.44Edwin H7.7.2EmmaOpitz H7.21.4Fabrication Locale H7.31.3Feinschmuck FD14Filson H7.10.1First Arrow’s H7.8.6Fred Perry H7.13Frye H7.27G.R.P. H7.30.1Ganzo H7.8.1.1Gilded Age H7.43.1Gloverall H7.38Good Genes H7.7.1HEMLEY H7.32.4Heritage Post H7.8.12Herschel Supply Co. H7.19.1.2HESTRA H7.36Holubar H7.33.2INVENTORY Magazine H7.8.11Japan Blue Jeans H7.8.1.3JEAN SHOP H7.21.1Jelado H7.8.7John Gluckow H7.8.7K.O.I – Kings Of Indigo H7.6KAVAT H7.35Kohzo H7.33.1

Laco H7.28.4LEVI’S® Made & Crafted H7.10.2LEVI’S® Vintage Clothing H7.10.2Lightning Bolt H7.29.1Ludwig Reiter H7.37Lyle & Scott H7.18.1MAHIOUT H7.31.3MEINDL H7.29.3Men’s file H7.8.10Merz b. Schwanen H7.31.1Mexicana H7.28.1Momotaro Jeans H7.8.1.3Museum H7.41.2Neuw Denim H7.23.2Nigel Cabourn H7.4Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. H7.18.2Nudie Jeans Co H7.1.2Old York H7.8.4Pailot River H7.8.4Pantherella H7.31.2Parts H7.22.2Pendleton Woolen Mills H7.26Penfield H7.15Private W hite H7.19.1.1

Pure Blue Japan H7.8.3Red Wing Shoes H7.1.1Rising Sun & Co. H7.20Rocky Mountain Featherbed H7.24.2ROKKER H7.28.3Salvatore Piccolo H7.41.1Schott N.Y.C. H7.40.1Shinola H7.11SIMON AND MARY H7.21.2Soulive H7.8.1.2Spiewak H7.3.2Stetson H7.12Stevenson Overall Co. H7.23.3Superior Labor H7.8.5Ten c H7.42.1The last conspiracy H7.24.1The Real McCoy’s H7.8.8Tricker’s H7.32.1VIBERG H7.31.4Warehouse Company Ltd. H7.22.1Westage & Co. H7.33.5Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection H7.21.3Woods Arctic Brand H7.17.1

3sixteen FD 15Alexander Leathers FD 6Big John FD 12BROOKS ENGLAND FD 5Croots FD 14Dehen1920 FD 14Fidelity FD 13

Fil-Noir FD 10Golden Bear Sportswear FD 14HANSEN FD 2INIS MEÀIN FD 17Oak Street Bootmakers FD 11Orslow FD 3Otter Wax FD 14

PassionFrance FD18Pike Brothers FD 1Rancourt & Co. FD 4R.J.B FD 16Scarti-Lab FD 9SOLOVAIR FD 8Tanner Goods FD 14

Tellason FD 14The Flat Head FD 16Three Animals FD 7Wrenchmonkees Apparel Co. FD 13

BISTRO

3 MINUTES!

Coffeelounge

H7.2CLOSED

H7.6K.O.I – Kings Of Indigo

H7.10.1Filson

H7.1.1Red Wing Shoes

H7.10.2LEVI’S® Vintage Clothing, LEVI’S® Made & Crafted

H7.7.1The Good Genes

H7.7.2Edwin

FD 13Fidelity, Wrenchmonkees Apparel Co.

FD 11Oak Street Bootmakers

FD 7Three Animals

FD 6Alexander Leathers

FD 5BROOKS ENGLAND

FD 4Rancourt & Co.

FD 2Hansen

FD 3orslow

FD 8SOLOVAIR

FD 9Scarti-Lab

FD 10Fil-Noir

FD 1Pike

Brothers

H7.3.1DENHAM

FD 14Tellason, Tanner Goods, Golden Bear Sportswear, Croots, Feinschmuck

FD 12Big John

H7.3.2Spiewak

H7.21.4Emma Opitz H7.8.9

CLUTCH Magazine,2nd Magazine,

Lightning Magazine

H7.12Stetson

H7.13Fred Perry

H7.14Carhartt Work In Progress

H7.15Penfield

H7.17.1Woods arctic brand

H7.18.1Lyle & Scott

H7.19.2Aigle

H7.20Rising Sun & Co.H7.21.1

Jean ShopH7.22.1

Brown-Duck & Digger –

Warehouse Compay Ltd.

H7.24.1the last conspiracy

H7.25Deus Ex Machina

H7.26Pendleton Woolen Mills

H7.27Frye

H7.28.1Mexicana

H7.29.1Lightning

Bolt

H7.30.1G.R.P.

H7.31.1Merz b. Schwanen

H7.32.1Tricker’s

H7.34.1Dubarry of Ireland

H7.35KAVATH7.36

HESTRAH7.37Ludwig Reiter

H7.38Gloverall

H7.39Armor Lux

H7.40.1Schott N.Y.C.

H7.41.1Salvatore Piccolo

H7.42.1Ten c

H7.43.1Gilded Age, Bowery

H7.31.3MAHIOUT, Fabrication Locale

H7.30.2BUTTERO

H7.43.2Blue de Gênes

H7.42.2Care Label

H7.41.2Museum

H7.32.2Brixtol

H7.33.1Kohzo

H7.32.3Blundstone

H7.33.2Holubar

H7.24.2Rocky Mountain Featherbed

H7.23.2NeuwDenim

H7.29.2DUKES Finest Artisan

H7.29.3Meindl

H7.28.2Claes Göran

H7.28.3RokkerH7.28.4

Laco H7.31.2Pantherella

H7.18.2Noodles Noodles &

Noodles Corp.

H7.8.10men’s file

H7.8.12Heritage

Post

FD 16The Flat Head, RJB

H7.44ECCO Leather

H7.11Shinola

FD 17INIS MEÀIN

H7.8.11INVENTORY

H7.8.13L.O.C.K.

BLOGGERS: Koo,

Mr Mort

H7.34.2Corgi

H7.32.4HEMLEY

H7.33.4Arpenteur

H7.31.4Viberg

H7.33.3Bleu de Chauffe

H7.22.2Parts

FD 153sixteen

H7.19.1.1Private

White

H7.19.1.2Herschel Supply Co.

H7.16CODEmagazine

H7.17.2Canada Goose

H7.21.2Simon & Mary

H7.21.3Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection

H7.33.5Westage & Co.

H7.40.2Bailey of Hollywood

H7.23.3Stevenson Overall Co.

FD 18PassionFrance

H7.5Blauer, BPD

H7.8.1.1Ganzo

H7.4Nigel Cabourn

H7.1.2Nudie Jeans Co

H7.8.2Brown’s Beach Jacket

H7.8.3Pure Blue Japan

H7.8.7Jelado,

John gluckow

H7.8.5Superior

Labor

H7.8.8The Real McCoy’s

H7.8.6First Arrow

H7.8.1.2Soulive

H7.8.1.3Momotaro Jeans, Japan Blue Jeans

H7.8.4Old York,

Ace Boots,Pailot River,

Early Hollywood

H7.8.14Denimhunters

SERVICE

SHOP

FIRE DEPT.

FIRST FLOOR

URBAN BASE


TRENSFORUM

URBAN BASE





UPPER STREET

FLEAMARKET

TREASURY

TREASURY

TREASURY


AIRLIFT BISTRO

Fräulein Wild

BBBPRESSLOUNGE

BBB MAGAZINE

LOUNGE

WARDROBE

MOGG &

MELZER

CRAFTSMAN’S CANTEEN

OUT L.O.C.K.

HALLIGAN’S

salad, quiChe & boiled filetCaterer: Nola’sPayMent:Cash, EC and credit cardsseats: 150oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.

Coffee & drinksCaterer: Tres CabezasPayMent:Cash onlyseats: 20oPen: Tue. & Wed.: 10 a.m. — 7 p.m. Thu.: 10 a.m. — 6 p.m.


brand index—all brands froM a—z

brand booth no area PaGe brand booth no area PaGe

—#!Solid H3.10 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18’snoboot H4.12.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 193sixteen FD 15 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 2447 Brand A 42.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 208MN H5.19.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22

—aA Cut Above D 3.2 D.O.C.K. 20A Fish Named Fred H6.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23AB AETERNO H5.4.2 TREASURY 22Ace Boots H7.8.4 L.O.C.K. 24Aeronautica Militare – Collezione Privata A 14.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Affliction Clothing A 16.02 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Aigle H7.19.2 L.O.C.K. 24Alan Rust H6.28.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Alexander Leathers FD 6 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24alife & famous H3.2.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18alife and kickin H3.2.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Allinclusive Apparel H3.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Alpha Industries A 7 URBAN BASE PT.2 21American College USA A 63.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Ana Helen H5.19.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Anerkjendt H3.26 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Angelia & Pets H3.20.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18ANNA SCOTT H4.14.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Antony Morato A 4 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Antonyme by Nat & Nin H4.21.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Anvil H3.7 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Armor Lux H7.39 L.O.C.K. 24Arpenteur H7.33.4 L.O.C.K. 24ARTILLERYLANE H5.4.7 TREASURY 22Atelier Scotch H6.6 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23aunts&uncles H5.24.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Australia Luxe Collective H4.21.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19

—bb.young H4.10.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Bailey of Hollywood H7.40.2 L.O.C.K. 24Barbour International™ H6.18 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Barts H5.12 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22bedacht H5.19.7 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22BELTION bag H5.4.10 TREASURY 22Ben Sherman H6.17.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Bench. A 30 URBAN BASE PT.1 20BendorffPolo Club H6.25.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Bensimon Collection H5.23.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Bertoni H6.33.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Best Mountain H4.21.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Bickley+Mitchell H5.23.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Big John FD 12 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Birkenstock H4.3.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Blackstone H6.23.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Blauer H7.5 L.O.C.K. 24Blaumax H5.21.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Blend H4.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19BlendShe H4.11.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Bleu de Chauffe H7.33.3 L.O.C.K. 24Blick. H6.22.5 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Blue de Gênes H7.43.2 L.O.C.K. 24Blundstone H7.32.3 L.O.C.K. 24Blutsgeschwister A 53 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Bobby Fresh D 6.1 D.O.C.K. 20Bogner Jeans A 34 URBAN BASE PT.1 20BOOM BAP WEAR H3.30.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18BOWERY H7.43.1 L.O.C.K. 24BPD H7.5 L.O.C.K. 24BRANDBLACK A 62.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Brigitte Bardot H3.18.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18BRIXTOL H7.32.2 L.O.C.K. 24BROOKS ENGLAND FD 5 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Brooks Heritage A 41.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Brown’s Beach Jacket H7.8.2 L.O.C.K. 24Brunotti A 60.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Bruun & Stengade H6.15.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Boudoir des Lubies – Paris H5.4.14 TREASURY 22Buff A 58.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Buffalo H4.18.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19BUTTERO H7.30.2 L.O.C.K. 24

—CCa’Shott H4.19.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Calvin Klein Footwear A 52.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Calvin Klein Jeans Footwear A 52.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20camel active H6.5 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23CAMPUS A 5 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Canada Goose H7.17.2 L.O.C.K. 24Canadian Classics H4.19.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Candy For Richmen H3.13.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Care label H7.42.2 L.O.C.K. 24Carhartt Work In Progress H7.14 L.O.C.K. 24CARRERA H5.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 19CARTOON H4.3.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19CASHMERE’N’PEARL H5.4.4 TREASURY 22CG – Club of Gents H6.2.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 19Cheapo A 62.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Chunk A 58.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20CINQUE H6.14 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23CINQUE BAGS H6.29.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Circle of Trust A 15.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Claes Göran H7.28.2 L.O.C.K. 24Clarks Originals A 41.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Clarks Sportswear A 41.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20CLOSED H7.2 L.O.C.K. 24CLUTCH Magazine H7.8.9 L.O.C.K. 24CNSRD H3.2.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18CODE magazine H7.16 L.O.C.K. 24CODELLO H5.14 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Colors of California H4.19.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Compañia Fantastica H4.19.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Converse A 31 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Coolway H4.25.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Corgi H7.34.2 L.O.C.K. 24Cowboysbelt A 11 URBAN BASE PT.2 21CR7 – Cristiano Ronaldo A 56 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Cream H4.10.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Creative Recreation A 63.3.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Crocs H4.1.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Croots FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Cubanas H4.1.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Cuckoos Nest H3.22.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Culture H3.29 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Custo Barcelona A 9.5 URBAN BASE PT.2 21

—dDaily Paper D 1.2 D.O.C.K. 24DAWN H5.21.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Death by Zero H5.21.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Deby Debo H4.20.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 23Dedicated A 62.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20DEELUXE Est.74 A 14.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Dehen1920 FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24DENHAM H7.3.1 L.O.C.K. 24Denimhunters H7.8.14 L.O.C.K. 24Derhy H4.11.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Desigual A 23 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Desires H3.10 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Deus Ex Machina H7.25 L.O.C.K. 24Diadora A 38 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Dickies A 42.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20DKNY Active Shoes H6.28.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Dolomite A 17 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Donkey Products A 9.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Dr. Denim Jeansmakers A 48 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Dr. Martens A 57.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20DRYKORN H6.20 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23DSSENT D 6.6 D.O.C.K. 20DSTREZZED A 16.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Dubarry of Ireland H7.34.1 L.O.C.K. 24Duck and Cover H6.28.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23DUKES Finest Artisan H7.29.2 L.O.C.K. 24Durango Leather Company H5.22.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22

—eEarly Hollywood H7.8.4 L.O.C.K. 24Ecattus H3.21.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18ECCO Leather H7.44 L.O.C.K. 24EDUARD DRESSLER H6.7 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Edwin H7.7.2 L.O.C.K. 24EINSTEIN & NEWTON A 15.4 URBAN BASE PT.2 21ELEKTRODE H3.12.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

26 Preview breadandbutter winter 2014


ELEVENPARIS A 37 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Elvine A 59 URBAN BASE PT.1 20EmmaOpitz H7.21.4 L.O.C.K. 24EMU Australia H4.27.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19erfurt luxury accessories H4.25.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19ESKA H5.24.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22ESKEY H5.18.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22European Culture H5.17 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Everlast H3.13.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Exibit H6.21.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23

—fFabrication Locale H7.31.3 L.O.C.K. 24FAGUO H3.22.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18FAHRER H5.4.3 TREASURY 22FAME ON YOU PARIS A 49.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Fat Moose H3.24.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Feinschmuck FD14 L.O.C.K. 24Fever London H4.14.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Fidelity FD 13 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Fil-Noir FD 10 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24FILA A 43 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Filson H7.10.1 L.O.C.K. 24FIRMAMENT D 2.1 D.O.C.K. 20First Arrow’s H7.8.6 L.O.C.K. 24flip*flop H5.20.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Floris van Bommel H5.16 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Fly London H4.1.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19FORBES & LEWIS H6.22.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Fornarina A 25 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Frank Wright H6.30.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Franklin & Marshall A 36.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20fransa H4.10.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Fred Perry H7.13 L.O.C.K. 24FREDsBRUDER H5.21.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Freeman T. Porter A 44 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Friis Co. H3.30.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Fritzi aus Preußen H4.24.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Frye H7.27 L.O.C.K. 24

—GG.R.P. H7.30.1 L.O.C.K. 24GABBA H3.24.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18GANT Footwear H6.2.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23GANT Men/Woman H6.2.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 19Ganzo H7.8.1.1 L.O.C.K. 24Gardenia Copenhagen H3.19.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Gaudì H4.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Geddes & Gilmore H3.15.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18GEORGE GINA & LUCY H5.20.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Giesswein H5.24.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Gilded Age H7.43.1 L.O.C.K. 24Ginger+Soul H4.16.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Gipsy H4.26.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Glamorous H4.23.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Gloverall H7.38 L.O.C.K. 24Gnious H3.14.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18GODLY D 6.4 D.O.C.K. 20Gola Classics A 55 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Golden Bear Sportswear FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24GOLDMUD H5.22.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Good Genes H7.7.1 L.O.C.K. 24goosecraft H5.11 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22gsus sindustries H3.25 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—hHAMAKI-HO A 8 URBAN BASE PT.2 23HANSEN FD 2 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Happy Socks A 10.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21HEMLEY H7.32.4 L.O.C.K. 24Heritage Post H7.8.12 L.O.C.K. 24Herrlicher A 12.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Herschel Supply Co. H7.19.1.2 L.O.C.K. 24HESTRA H7.36 L.O.C.K. 24HEX D 4 D.O.C.K. 20Hickory Smoke A 57.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Holubar H7.33.2 L.O.C.K. 24HUB Footwear H3.15.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Humör H3.26 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18HYMN H3.16.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—iICHI H4.22 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Impure H3.21.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Indicode Jeans A 52.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20INIS MEÀIN FD 17 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Inkkas H3.20.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18INVENTORY Magazine H7.8.11 L.O.C.K. 24ithinkso H3.23.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—JJ&JOY H6.29.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Jacques Britt H5.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Jaggy H6.12.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23JAGVI H6.31.5 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Japan Blue Jeans H7.8.1.3 L.O.C.K. 24Japan Rags A 54.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20JEAN SHOP H7.21.1 L.O.C.K. 24Jelado H7.8.7 L.O.C.K. 24Jilted Royalty D 1.1 D.O.C.K. 20JIMMY’Z A 63.5 URBAN BASE PT.1 20John Gluckow H7.8.7 L.O.C.K. 24JOHNNYLOVE H6.31.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23JOOP! H6.10 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Juju Shoes H3.18.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Junk de Luxe H6.24.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Just Junkies H3.24.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18J’N’C G 3 URBAN BASE PT.2 21

—kK and J H5.4.13 TREASURY 22K-Way A 51.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20K.O.I – Kings Of Indigo H7.6 L.O.C.K. 24kaffe H4.10.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19KangaROOS A 61.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Kappa A 63.4 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Karhu Originals H6.24.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Karl Alley D 6.2 D.O.C.K. 20KARL LAGERFELD MENS H6.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23KAVAT H7.35 L.O.C.K. 24khujo A 45 URBAN BASE PT.1 20King Louie H4.15 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Kling H4.13.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19KnowledgeCotton Apparel H6.30.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23KOAH H3.17.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Kohzo H7.33.1 L.O.C.K. 24KOMONO A 64.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Komrad Invasion H3.21.8 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18KOTTÉ H3.21.7 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Kronstadt H3.24.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18KuSan H4.13.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Kuyichi A 49.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Künzli Classic H6.24.5 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23

—lL1 Premium Goods H3.14.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Laco H7.28.4 L.O.C.K. 24Lacoste Footwear A 20 URBAN BASE PT.2 21LAGERFELD H6.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Lavand H4.16.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Le Coq Sportif A 43 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Le Temps des Cerises A 54.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Legend Belts A 49.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Lemon Jelly H5.23.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22LES (ART)ISTS D 6.5 D.O.C.K. 20LEVI’S® Made & Crafted H7.10.2 L.O.C.K. 24LEVI’S® Vintage Clothing H7.10.2 L.O.C.K. 24Lightning Bolt H7.29.1 L.O.C.K. 24LIGNE CINQ LIMITED D 6.3 D.O.C.K. 20Lindbergh H3.6.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Little Mistress H4.11.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Liu Jo A 26 URBAN BASE PT.2 21LOGOSH!RT H3.2.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Lonsdale H3.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18LOSERS A 64.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Louche H3.16.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18LPB Shoes H5.25.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Ludwig Reiter H7.37 L.O.C.K. 24LUPACO Munich H6.31.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Luxalicious H4.12.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Lyle & Scott H7.18.1 L.O.C.K. 24

—MM.Moustache H6.22.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23MAHIOUT H7.31.3 L.O.C.K. 24Maison Scotch A 29 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Majestic Athletic A 64.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20MAKO BAGS H5.4.15 TREASURY 22Manhattan Portage A 62.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Marc O’Polo A 28 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Maui and Sons A 63.5 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Mavi A 32 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Maze H4.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19mbyM H3.28 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18MEINDL H7.29.3 L.O.C.K. 24Men’s file H7.8.10 L.O.C.K. 24Merz b. Schwanen H7.31.1 L.O.C.K. 24Mexicana H7.28.1 L.O.C.K. 24minimum H3.16.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Minnetonka H3.18.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18mint. H4.20.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Minus H5.13.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Mipacha H3.21.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

A r eA Guide

Preview 27 breadandbutter winter 2014 A r eA Guidebrand booth no area PaGe brand booth no area PaGe

Mismash H4.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19mode... information A 9.4 URBAN BASE PT.2 21modström H5.13.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Molly Bracken H4.16.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Momotaro Jeans H7.8.1.3 L.O.C.K. 24Moon Boot A 17 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Mouli H6.32.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23MOVE by Digel H6.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Mr. GUGU & Miss GO A 60.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20muchacho H3.20.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18MUNICH H6.33.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Muschi Kreuzberg D 3.1 D.O.C.K. 20Museum H7.41.2 L.O.C.K. 24Mustang A 34 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Myboo H3.21.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—nNZA New Zealand Auckland A 21 URBAN BASE PT.2 21nabholz H6.13.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23NAGANO H6.26.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Naketano H3.12.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18nANA jUDY H3.19.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Napapijri A 22 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Napp Jeans H3.14.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Nat & Nin H4.21.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Native Youth A 61.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Natural World H3.13.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Nena & Pasadena H3.23.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Neonneid H5.4.16 TREASURY 22Neuw Denim H7.23.2 L.O.C.K. 24New Balance A 40.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20New Black D 2.2 D.O.C.K. 20new era A 9.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21nice things Paloma S H4.21.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Nickelson A 2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Nigel Cabourn H7.4 L.O.C.K. 24Nobis A 13.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Noble Project H3.21.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18NOBRAND H6.25.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Nokian Footwear H5.23.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Noodles, Noodles & Noodles Corp. H7.18.2 L.O.C.K. 24NOVESTA H4.21.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19NudeAudio H3.21.9 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Nudie Jeans Co H7.1.2 L.O.C.K. 24nümph H3.26 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—oOak Street Bootmakers FD 11 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24OAKWOOD H5.22.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Oilily H4.24.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19OILL H3.30.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Old York H7.8.4 L.O.C.K. 24One Green Elephant A 47 URBAN BASE PT.1 20One Wolf H3.20.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18OnePiece H3.8 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Onitsuka Tiger A 50 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Original Penguin H6.11 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Orslow FD 3 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Oscar Jacobson H6.17.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Oscar of Sweden H6.24.4 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Otter Wax FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24

—PPailot River H7.8.4 L.O.C.K. 24Palladium A 39 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Palo H5.4.18 TREASURY 22Pantherella H7.31.2 L.O.C.K. 24Pantofola D’Oro A 43 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Panuu A 62.4 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Papillio H4.3.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Paramita H4.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Parts H7.22.2 L.O.C.K. 24PassionFrance FD18 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24pavuna H5.19.5 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22PeleCheCoco H3.19.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Pendleton Woolen Mills H7.26 L.O.C.K. 24Penfield H7.15 L.O.C.K. 24Petrol Industries A 46 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Pike Brothers FD 1 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Piper Maru H6.29.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Pisidia H5.4.9 TREASURY 22PME Legend A 27 URBAN BASE PT.2 21POP BOUTIQUE, Vintage Clothing Company H3.12.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Private White H7.19.1.1 L.O.C.K. 24Puffa A 15.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Pure Blue Japan H7.8.3 L.O.C.K. 24Purple Label by Benvenuto H6.27.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23

—qQuay Eyeware Australia H3.22.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—rR2 Westbrook H6.32.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23ragwear A 41.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Rancourt & Co. FD 4 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Ransom D 3.3 D.O.C.K. 20Red Wing Shoes H7.1.1 L.O.C.K. 24Redskins Territory A 35 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Reebok Classic A 36.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Refrigue H6.12.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Rehard H6.21.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Resteröds A 56 URBAN BASE PT.1 20rich&royal A 12.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21RIORIM H6.28.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Rising Sun & Co. H7.20 L.O.C.K. 24Riverside H4.13.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19R.J.B FD 16 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Robert Graham H6.23.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Rocket Dog H4.1.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Rocky Mountain Featherbed H7.24.2 L.O.C.K. 24ROKKER H7.28.3 L.O.C.K. 24Rothco A 63.3.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20RVLT / Revolution A 40.3 URBAN BASE PT.1 20

—sSaint Tropez H4.11.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Salvatore Piccolo H7.41.1 L.O.C.K. 24Samsøe & Samsøe H5.10 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Sansibar Denim A 34 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Satorisan H3.24.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Scarti-Lab FD 9 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Schiesser Revival H5.19.8 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Schott N.Y.C. H7.40.1 L.O.C.K. 24Scotch & Soda A 29 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Sendra Boots H4.13.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19SENNES H6.24.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Serge Pariente H3.14.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18SET H5.15 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Seven Tees H3.18.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18SHENDORA H5.19.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Shine H3.6.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Shinola H7.11 L.O.C.K. 24Shoe Biz Copenhagen H3.19.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Shoe the Bear H6.22.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Silvian Heach A 3 URBAN BASE PT.2 21SIMON AND MARY H7.21.2 L.O.C.K. 24SisterS Point H4.18.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Slang Barcelona H4.19.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19smash! H4.6 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19SNOB de NOBLESSE H4.27.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19SOIA & KYO H5.18.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22SOLOVAIR FD 8 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Sorel H5.25.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22Soulive H7.8.1.2 L.O.C.K. 24Spiewak H7.3.2 L.O.C.K. 24Sportswear International A 9.3 URBAN BASE PT.2 21St-Martins H4.27.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19StepArt H3.23.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Stetson H7.12 L.O.C.K. 24Steve Madden A 15.3 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Stevenson Overall Co. H7.23.3 L.O.C.K. 24Stockman H6.31.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Strellson Premium A 1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Strellson Sportswear A 1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21STYLESNOB H5.19.9 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22SUIT H6.15.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23SUPE H4.20.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Superga A 51.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Superior Labor H7.8.5 L.O.C.K. 24Supremebeing A 63.1 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Surkana H4.17 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Sweet Pants H3.17.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Sweet Years H3.2.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—tTailored by Solid H3.11.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Tanner Goods FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24TEE LIBRARY H6.24.6 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Tellason FD 14 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Ten c H7.42.1 L.O.C.K. 24TEN POINTS H4.12.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19terre & mer H4.13.4 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19TextilWirtschaft A 12.3 URBAN BASE PT.2 21The Flat Head FD 16 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24The last conspiracy H7.24.1 L.O.C.K. 24The Original Muck Boot Company H5.18.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22The Real McCoy’s H7.8.8 L.O.C.K. 24TheLabelFinder A 54.2 URBAN BASE PT.1 20Three Animals FD 7 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24Tiger of Sweden H6.19 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Timberland A 24 URBAN BASE PT.2 21TOM TAILOR A 6 URBAN BASE PT.2 21TOMS A 10.1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Tricker’s H7.32.1 L.O.C.K. 24


Twist & Tango H5.20.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22

—uUBER H6.22.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23

—vVagabond H3.27 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18Valerie H5.18.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22van Laack H6.26.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23VIBERG H7.31.4 L.O.C.K. 24Victoria H4.20.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Victorinox H6.13.2 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23VIP FLAP H6.27.1 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23VITO H6.30.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Voi Jeans Co. A 13.2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Volley Australia H3.13.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—wWAD Magazine G 2 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Warehouse Company Ltd. H7.22.1 L.O.C.K. 24We love Jeans H5.19.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 22WeAr Magazine G 1 URBAN BASE PT.2 21Weekend Offender H3.11.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

Westage & Co. H7.33.5 L.O.C.K. 24wewood H5.4.18 TREASURY 22White Tent H3.21.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18windsor. H6.16 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection H7.21.3 L.O.C.K. 24Wood’d H5.4.18 TREASURY 22Woods Arctic Brand H7.17.1 L.O.C.K. 24Wrenchmonkees Apparel Co. FD 13 FIRE DEPT. AT L.O.C.K. 24

—xXXL Hardwear H3.21.5 URBAN FASHION HALL 1 18

—yYerse H4.23.1 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19Yumi H4.26.2 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19

—zZIIIRO H5.4.11 TREASURY 22Zilch H4.13.3 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19ZOHAC H6.27.3 URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 2 23ZWEI H4.13.7 URBAN FASHION HALL 2 19


b&b MediaPartners—trade- & lifestyle Press

Get your FREE COPY

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

Preview 29 BreadandButter winter 2014

News & Press

— Oliver Horton Interview — Andi Zimmermann Fotos

Ein knappes Dreivierteljahr ist vergangen, seit Andy Rogers den Job als Brand Director beim High-Street-Retailer Reiss gegen den-selben Posten bei Fred Perry eingetauscht hat. Zuvor war er sieben Jahre lang die rech-te Hand von Stella McCartney — als Vi-sual Director. „Ich war der Kreative im Büro, der keine Kleidung entworfen hat.“ Bei Fred Perry kommt dem 44-Jährigen die Aufgabe zu, ein Sportswear-Label zu pushen, bei dem sich längst nicht alles um Sport dreht, und den Bekanntheitsgrad des Brands mit dem Lorbeerblatt-Logo weiter zu erhöhen. „Das Wichtigste ist, das, was wir tun, besser zu machen.“

Rogers, 44, lebt mit seiner Frau, einer Freelance-Schmuckdesignerin, und seinen zwei Söhnen in Süd-London. Zur Head Office von Fred Perry in Covent Garden fährt er mit seinem maßge-schneiderten Single-speed-Bike aus der briti-schen Fahrradschmiede Bob Jackson. Das passt gut, denn zu den Kollaborationen im Hause Fred Perry gehört eine mit Tour-de-France-Gewin-ner Bradley Wiggins. Wie viele Fred-Perry-Träger liebt Andy Rogers Fußball, auch wenn er sich beim Spielen seinen Knöchel ruiniert hat und sich über seine „schlechten Hüften“ be-schwert. Er trägt eine Uhr der Marke Patek Phi-lippe und liebt auch sonstigen Schmuck. Er könne sich gut vorstellen, meint Rogers, eines Tages wieder für ein Schmucklabel zu arbeiten — wie zu Beginn seiner Karriere, als er unter anderem für Tiffany & Co. tätig war.

Rogers Büro bei Fred Perry ist überraschend kahl — nur zwei Laserdrucke von der letzten Fred-Perry-Kampagne hängen an der Wand, als Dekoration und Inspiration zugleich. Es handelt sich um Schwarz-Weiß-Bilder, die Männer in streng zugeknöpften Shirts zeigen, was vorder-gründig im Kontrast zu Fred Perrys Heritage als smarte Tennis-Marke zu stehen scheint. Doch diese Sichtweise relativiert sich schnell, blickt man auf die wechselvolle Geschichte des Brands zurück, das in der Vergangenheit immer wieder auch gemeinsame Sache mit jugendlichen Subkulturen gemacht hat — allen voran mit den Mods und der Northern-Soul-Bewegung. Rogers beschreibt seine Rolle als die des „brand guardian“ und räumt ein: „Manchmal sehen wir vielleicht zu britisch aus.“ Er möchte Fred Per-ry als eine Marke für Non-Konformisten jeglicher Herkunft etablieren und den Lorbeerkranz auf der Brust als Zeichen der Rebellion. „In Jeans kannst du nicht mehr non-konformistisch sein“, meint er schließlich.

Die Fred-Perry-Büros machen einen recht spar-tanischen Eindruck...

Ich muss mit dem Office Manager reden — ich hasse den Eingangsbereich. Es gehört zu meinem Job, mich um solche Dinge zu kümmern.

Was unterscheidet deine Tätigkeit bei Fred Perry von deinen früheren Jobs?

Bei Reiss haben wir die Marke quasi erfunden. Hier ist sie bereits sehr stark. Wir haben 1,2 Mil-lionen hingebungsvolle Hardcore-Fans auf Fa-cebook — die werden immer mehr über Fred Perry wissen als ich. Also unterscheidet sich der Job fundamental von dem bei Reiss. Bei Fred Perry geht es darum, die DNA, den Ethos und die Seele der Marke zu bewahren und zugleich einem

breiteren Publikum zu vermitteln, was diese drei Dinge ausmacht. Fred Perry ist sowohl in einer Sportkette wie JD Sports als auch bei Do-ver Street Market präsent, und zwar mit nahezu derselben Produkten. Es gibt lediglich eine Hand-voll Brands, denen dieser Spagat gelingt — Nike und Adidas vielleicht.

Woher diese breite Zielgruppe?

Fred Perry ist eingebettet in die Geschichte verschiedener Subkulturen und Musikszenen — angefangen von den 1950er bis zum heu-tigen Tag. Die Marke entwickelt sich stetig wei-ter und hat Fans auf der ganzen Welt. In den Social Media bilden Brand und Shirt quasi eine Einheit, und das zieht sich durch alle Subkultu-

ren. Und es gibt stets eine Konstante: Fred Per-ry repräsentiert den modernen, eher cleanen, geschmackssicheren Part der jeweiligen Bewe-gung. Da gibt es dieses tolle Foto von einem Ty-pen aus L.A., mit Gang-Tattoos selbst auf den Händen und Fingerknöcheln. Ansonsten: Haar-tolle, Jeans und ein Paar Boots. Und das, was diesen Look zusammenhält, ist das cleane Fred-Perry-Shirt, zugeknöpft und eng geschnitten. Tattoo-Träger oder was auch immer — das Shirt ist der gemeinsame Nenner.

„Fred Perry ist sowohl bei JD Sports als auch bei Dover Street Market präsent. Es gibt lediglich eine Handvoll Brands, denen dieser Spagat gelingt.“

Welchen Subkulturen fühlt sich Fred Perry heute verbunden?

Wir sind immer noch Teil der Fankultur im Fuß-ball. Ob man Fußball nun liebt oder hasst — fest steht, dass sich dort auf den Tribünen bis heute eine oftmals sehr modeaffine Jugend ver-sammelt. Dann bekomme ich aber auch Dinge zu hören wie: „Wusstest du, dass es in Thailand eine Underground-Punk-Szene gibt, die nur Fred Perry trägt?“ Und der Typ in L.A., von dem ich eben gesprochen habe, ist ein Latino-Rapper. Das Tolle an den Social Media ist: Man bekommt mit, was solche Leute mögen. Du siehst Typen, die auf Death Metal oder Hardcore Trash und auf Fred Perry stehen, Street People aus Singa-pur und ihre Interpretation des Brands. Oder Skater, die Fred Perry tragen.

Brand HistoryFred Perry hieß der Mann aus dem norden englands, der tennis – einstmals ein upper-Class-sport – in den 1930er Jahren revolutionieren sollte. wie? indem er, sohn eines Baumwollspinners, dreimal in Folge wimbledon gewann. Zum Missfallen des britischen establishments, was Perry später dazu bringen sollte, in die usa auszuwan-dern. im Zweiten weltkrieg kämpfte er in den reihen der amerikanischen armee, war der Liebhaber der deutschen schauspielerin Marlene dietrich und lancierte 1952 seine eigene tennis-shirt-Kollektion. die Marke wurde von Clubszene und später unter anderem von den Mods und der northern-soul-Gemeinde für sich entdeckt. allesamt wussten sie ein shirt zu schätzen, in dem man schwitzen konnte, während man tanzte. das Markenlogo, der Lor-beerkranz, avancierte zum symbol der Jugendkultur, während das tennis-erbe des unternehmens zunehmend in den Hintergrund rückte, da man sich dem sport-spon-soring weitgehend verweigerte. anfang des Jahrtausends lancierte Fred Perry seine Footwear und erfand sich selbst neu. Kollaborationen mit Comme des Garçons, raf simons, amy winehouse oder jüngst mit rennradfahrer Bradley wiggins spielten dabei eine zentrale rolle. die Marke Fred Perry ist heute unterteilt in die ‚authentic‘- und die ‚ Laurel wreath‘-Kollektion. während ‚authentic‘ vor allem über stores mit einem schwerpunkt auf sports- und -Casualwear verkauft wird, nimmt sich die Ziel-gruppe von ‚Laurel wreath‘ etwas anspruchsvoller aus.

„Mit 14/15 dreHte siCH Bei Mir aLLes uM tHe JaM und Fred Perry.“

Brands & BraIns andy rogers – Fred Perry, London

Friend oF Fred

JEANSWEARAND CONTEMPORARY FASHION

No 55 / 1-2014

ENGLISH

COOL CITIESFLORENCESTREET STYLES RETAIL TALKS AND SERVICE

4

01

196

38

93

09

50

9

No 55 / 1-2014

CO

OL C

ITIES / FLOR

ENC

EEN

GLISH

INTERVIEWS:

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN, HENRIK

VIBSKOV, ANDY ROGERS, ANDREAS

BAUMGÄRTNER, LINDA LOPPA

D 9,50 EURO

B/NL/A 10,50 EUROE/P/I 11,50 EUROCH 15,80 CHF

JNC-01-2014-Front-Cover.indd 1 12/20/2013 2:56:14 PM

read this story and many more in the brand new issue of

J’n’C

Get your FREE COPy

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

iCH

Bin

deut

sCH

NEWS & pr ESS30 Preview BreadandButter winter 2014

— Anna Bok Text

Liebe Modemädchen, im kommenden Frühjahr lassen wir uns style-mäßig so richtig hängen—und zwar im wahrs-ten Sinne des Wortes: Die Fransen sind zurück! Geht es nämlich nach der inter-

nationalen Designer-Crowd, reiten wir ab sofort im Western-Look durch die Großstadtprärie.

Gut, wir geben zu, Mode im Wild-West-Stil stand in den vergangenen Jahren nicht gerade an der Spitze unserer Style-Agenda. Genauer gesagt folgten wir dem Fransen-Trend vermutlich mit vollster Inbrunst das letzte Mal im Grundschul-alter—und zwar in Form unseres Indianer-Faschingskostüms. Schuld daran ist wahr-schei n l ich Wi n net ou , b er ü h mt e s t er Indianer-Häuptling aus unseren Kinderbüchern, der gemeinsam mit Bleichgesicht Old Shatter-hand für Frieden und Gerechtigkeit kämpfte.Nun also spielen die Designer in ihren Frühjahr-/Sommer-Kollektionen 2014 Cowboy und Indi-aner: Bei Calvin Klein, Missoni, den Olsen-Zwil-lingen (aka The Row) und Rodarte baumeln Fransen nämlich ab sofort en masse an der Kla-motte. Den Rodarte-Schwestern wurden Fran-sen übrigens quasi schon in die Wiege gelegt: Kate und Laura Mulleavy wuchsen in Los An-geles auf, da ist der wilde Westen bekanntlich nicht weit. Und auch Altuzarra setzte in seiner Schau mit einem weißen Fransen-Lederhemd auf den altbewährten Cowboy-Look. Fast ver-misste man auf den Laufstegen schon das Tipi-Zelt, um die Pfeil-und-Bogen-Romantik perfekt zu machen.

Aber so hübsch das wippende Dekor auch aus-sehen mag, styling-technisch ist bei der Franse größte Vorsicht geboten—außer man befin-det sich gerade auf dem Weg nach Coachella oder zu einer 20er-Jahre-Mottoparty, wo Fransen-Hängerchen zum Inventar gehören—schließ-lich wackeln die Fäden beim flotten Charleston so schön hin und her. In allen anderen Lebens-lagen möchte man jedoch weder a) mit einem Ganzkörper-Wischmopp assoziiert noch b) mit lautem Lu-lu-lu-Schrei von der Umwelt begrüßt werden. Fransen sollten also nur sparsam ein-gesetzt werden, der Rest der Klamotte darf ger-ne minimalistisch bleiben. Allein schon aus dem Grund, weil eine solche „Hang-loose-Klamotte“ bei schneller Bewegung Dinge freilegen kann, die nach Gänsebraten- und Plätzchen-Orgien vielleicht besser nicht zur Schau gestellt werden sollten.

Und wer sich bis hierhin noch nicht gefragt hat: „Wieso trugen Cowboys und Indianer überhaupt diese seltsamen Fäden an ihrer Lederkluft?“, dem sei gesagt: Sie leiten angeblich den Regen gut ab. Darüber hinaus galten bei den Indianern bodenlange Fransen an ihren Friedenspfeifen als Übermittler von positiven Erdkräften. Nun, das kann man beides immer gut gebrauchen, großes Indianer-Ehrenwort. In diesem Sinne ruft BLONDE zu euch nach draußen in den Mo-dekosmos: Franse, howgh!

Fransen sind das neue voLant

Grün ist das neue schwarz? schon lange nicht mehr! BLOndE durchforstet für euch die sprudelnde Modewelt nach den neuesten, skurrilsten und natürlich besten Trends. dieses Mal: Fransen.

die Fransen sind ZurüCK! GeHt es näMLiCH naCH der internationaLen desiGner-Crowd, reiten wir aB soFort iM western-LooK durCH die GrossstadtPrärie.


BLonde

Get your FREE COPy

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

iCH

Bin

deut

sCH

NEWS & pr ESS Preview 31 BreadandButter winter 2014

— Stefanie Kobayashi Text— Horst A. Friedrichs Fotos

es muss nicht gleich der Bugatti sein, wenn wir von Oldtimern sprechen. Auch die Bubble Cars Mini oder Fiat 500 haben ihren besonderen Charme und ihren Charakter, zu dem der Fahrer den pas-

senden Stil entwickelt oder sich der Zeit anpasst, aus der das chromglänzendes Juwel stammt. Das ist alles andere als eine Maskerade, denn aus der Begeisterung für Motorsport erwächst auch die Faszination für das gesamte Lebens-gefühl vergangener Zeiten.

Bei Treffen, Veranstaltungen und Rennen, wie dem Goodwood Revival, den Vintage Revival Montlhéry oder dem Prescott Speed Hill Climb treffen dann Jahrzehnte aufeinander. Schätze vom Anfang des Jahrhundert wie ein Clément-Gladiator von 1901 oder ein 1919 Grafton Cyc-lecar treffen auf 40er Jahre Schönheiten wie den Ford C Type und auf Zeitzeugen des Motorsports wie eine Lotus 22 und einen 1959er Poggi. Immer mit dem dazu passenden Fahrer, denn die Devi-se und die Kleiderordnung lautet „period correct“, was den leidenschaftlichen Anhängern aus der Welt der „Vintage Cars“ nicht schwer fällt—und sogar großen Spaß macht.

Horst a. FriedriCHs—drive styLePresteL verLaG, www.PresteL.de

Fransen sind das neue voLant

drive styLeEin Mann, ein auto, ein stil. Horst a. Friedrichs dokumentiert in seinem neuen Werk die szene der britischen Oldtimer-Liebhaber in ihrer beeindruckenden Vielfalt.

aLLes andere aLs eine MasKerade, denn aus der BeGeisterunG Für Mo-torsPort erwäCHst auCH die FasZination Für das GesaMte LeBensGeFüHL verGanGener Zeiten.


tHe HeritaGe Post

VISIT uSat our

L.O.C.K. Booth!

iCH

Bin

deut

sCH


— Martin Scott Powell (www.kramerkramer.com) Photographer— Kanako B.Koga styling

Harris Tweed must be one of the most traditional fabrics around. In the last two years, it’s appeared on sneakers, on caps, was used by quite a few smart Japanese streetwear labels and, of

course, by Mr Nigel Cabourn. Under the radar, tweed was everywhere. It was about time we did a bit of research.

After three months of reaching out to a large number of weavers on the isles of Harris and Lewis and others involved in the Harris Tweed industry, a team went to the outer edges of Eu-rope, the Outer Hebrides. The goal for the story was to really capture the spirit of islands and bring across a sense of the place and its people. Photographer Martin Scott Powell (www.kramerkramer.com) and CODE’s Paris-based fashion director Kanako Koga spent several days on the island for the shoot. Working five days straight from 9 in the morning to 10 in the eve-ning, driving from farms to weavers to mills, being bitten by midges after dusk, they both re-ally got into the spirit of it.

The landscape on the isles of Harris and Lewis is exactly how you would imagine it on an island at the north-western end of Scotland: Rugged, rocky, windy, heathery… all punctuated by pops of the brilliant colours of the local flowers, the luminous green grass, white beaches (at least on a sunny day) and the sea’s bright turquoise (again, at least on a sunny day). It’s here that one of Brit-ain’s most iconic fabrics is produced.

The goal of the feature was to portray the islands and islanders as well as the fabric because, well, firstly, CODE is always about people, but in this case especially so because tweed reflects the place where it is made in both character (sturdy, pragmatic, windproof) and in colours (peat, dark green, heather, speckled with tiny dots of bright colours). The process of making Harris Tweed is protected by an Act of Parliament, which stipulates that it has to be hand-woven at a weav-er’s home on the island. It is one of the last textiles manufactured — made on a commercial scale — in such a traditional way.

For many of the weavers, colour designers and mill workers we spoke to, tweed is part of the family history, and they started to learn making tweed in their early teens.

tHe Harris tweed ProJeCt

a preview of the Harris Tweed feature in the upcoming international issue of COdE.


One of the challenges facing the industry there is that the average age of the weavers is going on 50. And life on the islands still moves in very traditional ways. (“It really feels like it’s a place fallen out of time,” said Martin). So you could be forgiven for thinking that the islanders — even though they’ve certainly seen their fair share of member of the press come by — wouldn’t necessarily be the kind of men that would feel at ease being styled by a bubbly French-woman with a background in the world of haute couture and then having their picture taken in front of atmospheric rocks and crofts. But the ones who were asked about it said they really enjoyed it.

In a way, the Harris Tweed feature is a perfect example for what CODE is about: people with presence and charisma rather than convention-al beauty; fascinating stories; remarkable ma-terials. CODE is eclectic by nature, featuring

styles from heritage to high tech, from sartorial to denim, from bespoke to sneakers. From a CODE perspective, these are all facets of con-temporary men’s style. No models, but real peo-ple and real stories. Informing, inspiring and entertaining.

When we publish CODE in Germany, Austria and Switzerland for the first time in March 2014, we hope to bring all these values with it, with stories that are relevant for the readers here. At the moment, CODE is published as an annual English-language bookazine with internation-al distribution and, twice a year, in a local Dutch edition. The twice-yearly German edition is all set to become a great addition to the family.

www.codemagazine.euwww.codemagazine.de www.facebook.com/wearecodewww.facebook.com/Codedeutschland

tHe Harris tweed ProJeCt

read the full version of this story in the brand new issue of

Code

tHe BriLLiant CoLours oF tHe LoCaL FLowers, tHe LuMinous Green Grass, wHite BeaCHes and tHe sea’s BriGHt turquoise. it’s Here tHat one oF Britain’s Most iConiC FaBriCs is ProduCed.

VISIT uSat our

L.O.C.K. Booth!

iCH

Bin

enGL

isH


oversiZed Gets styLisH

Hand-covered sleeves, hunched shoul-ders and seamless trousers are the new dress codes for the S/S 2014 sea-son. The entire Acne resort collection is based on volumes. From printed

pants to denim parkas, all styles are designed in large sizes and seem to blur the silhouette lines. Outfits are done mostly in non-colors with excep-

tion to a suit in bright orange. The Gucci woman is also likely to disappear under her clothes. This surprisingly relaxed decision from the Italian fashion house was inspired by former super-model Jerry Hall’s style resulting in striped and floral printed ensembles with oversized volumes. Just think of loose fluid pants and blazers or the newly shaped T-blouses.

Alexander Wang has introduced his new sil-houette with leather flares and mellowed with feminine tones like soft pink. His trousers are pleated and styled with zipped vests or slightly bulky tops. At Chloé, designer Clare Waight Keller once again shows how to master propor-tions perfectly. To restore this balance, she matches high-waist oversized Marlene pants with fitted shirts —a total look offered in

clear white. Altuzarra also recommends wear-ing big-volume clothing in the evening. His golden lamé overalls are so big that they look like a dress and are worn with a black dinner jacket.Luxurious sportswear ready-to-wear design brands such as Y-3, Lacoste and Calvin Klein have also jumped on the bandwagon of this new trend. For instance, Calvin Klein’s resort range presents wide-legged trousers with T-shaped tops or Safari-style blazers.

The dictator of skinny jeans and figure-hugging clothes has definitely come to an end. If designers are able to make their spring/summer 2014 womenswear collections convincing enough, then the oversize trend will become prevalent in today’s industry — another gimmick coming straight from menswear.

read those stories and many more in the brand new issue of

wear

— Karen Rouach author

VISIT uSat our

Booth in the GaTEs!

iCH

Bin

enGL

isH


Prints GaLore

aside from a vast assortment of flowers, tropical dandy styles, sixties pop graphics and abstract bold geometrics also appear in various menswear col-lections. Julien David’s casual

streetwear look makes references to pioneering reggae artists by combining relaxed tropical palm tree prints with militant messages. A sim-ilar contrast between war and love is showcased at prada, where movies like Pearl Harbor serve as inspiration for retro-Hawaiian prints lowered down with dark colored jackets. Light-hearted interpretations of tropical summers are seen at Calvin Klein, where images of color-gradient clouds are digitally printed on shirts and sweat-ers. And Katie Eary mixes comic pink flamingos with red leopard skins.

raf Simons unveils an artificially flavored nature with his Sixties Pop-Art inspired prints. Elon-gated T-shirts made out of synthetic fiber show graphical statements in symbols and texts. A different type of geometric creativity is embod-ied in James Long’s collection. Streamlined tops with shifting vertical stripes capture the aero-dynamic movement of cycling in a colorful way. At Opening Ceremony, stripes are used to make abstract black/white patterns as well as asym-metrical color blocking.

These prints achieve an extra dimension through wrapped layer constructions inspired by the Korean technique pojagi. In an elegant way, de-signs with quirky and fresh polka dots appear in some collections ranging from Burberry pror-sum, Marni to KrisVanAssche. All executed in black and white, they create an effortless blend of sports with traditional classics. One of Marni’s designs demonstrates the most creativity, with dots placed on a layered jacket in a technically complex fashion.

Incorporating all kinds of flowers with other motifs into new modernity is a major feature showcased by many prominent designers. Mos-chino piles up strips of heritage prints which create patchwork looks with flowers, clouds, thunderbolts, water and earth all mix in. Bik-kembergs implemented clear graphic stripes with a sporty touch to clash with romantically painted flowers, while Marc Jacobs plays it ten-der with soft little flowers. Elvis Presley Fifties style is revisited here in pastel colored suits with matching ties. In the 90’s revival of Christopher Shannon, cute mini flowers were sprinkled all over on shorts and shirts.

designer menswear collections for s/s 2014 present fun and fresh prints.

— Tjitske Storm author

an excerpt from Inventory magazine, Issue 09


ten C — Philip Watts Writer — Rick Pushinsky Photographer

in work, as in life, there is a tendency to repeat oneself — one’s errors, mistakes and mis-steps. To learn from those processes, to understand their significance and influence, is to move forward, to march into a future

of purpose and promise. To use those same les-sons to create something new, something sig-nificant, definitive and important, is frequently an exhausting endeavour the rewards of which, while distant, are often great. But how do you take everything that you’ve learned — the good, the bad, the other — and apply those lessons to something you already cherish, some-thing that needs very little improvement in the first place? The only way is to make those chang-es anyway, no matter how small, and allow those adjustments to speak for themselves, free from the burden of the small things that were wrong with them. Ten C, The Emperor’s New Clothes, is a collection of jackets by Paul Harvey and Ales-sandro Pungetti that offers an anonymous but important take on classic men’s sportswear. It’s outerwear that’s designed to last, not to be up-dated and replaced; that speaks for itself, by speaking quietly but with authority. There is an absence of extraneous detail, of bells and of whistles, and in their place there is minimalism and an emphasis on functionality. On a Ten C jacket everything works just the way it should — only everything works better than it should; everything refined, everything unnecessary removed — so that you’re left with the finite; the essential; the only jacket of its kind you’re likely to ever need. For Paul and Alessandro the aim was to find the flaws in what they considered the de-finitive versions of their type, to examine each little detail, making things better by taking away as much as they added. The changes they made were only those that were absolutely essential, that would result in a better garment. They per-fected the cut, and the necessities: the pockets, hoods, liners and the fabric itself. This fabric is the devil in the detail on a Ten C garment, the key ingredient to the jacket’s success, but also it’s most problematic element. A volatile and difficult material, it is everything about the jacket, once cut and fit have been taken into ac-count. There is no camouflage and no embellish-ment here, nothing to hide any potential short-comings, and instead the basics, the essentials, are left out in the open — ready to be held, and held accountable.

What was the initial thought process and inspiration behind Ten C?

alessandro pungetti: We didn’t ponder or think about it too much. It was a natural process for both of us really.

paul harvey: It was a very deliberate decision though. We wanted to be very direct, and to take away the constraints that you suffer as a design-er when you’re not actually doing your own line. When you work for somebody else, the limits on anything you do usually lead to you being creative. Which is a great lesson to learn, because when you have no limits, it’s actually very difficult. When you have constraints it’s interesting to work around them. You’re bound by certain rules,

so you have to improvise, and that makes it in-teresting. Obviously those limits, when imposed from an outside force, mean that there are some things you can’t do, which can lead to frustra-tions. Alessandro and I wanted to do something for ourselves, and get rid of as many of the rules as we could — that every six months you have to make a new collection, that the pieces have to change completely, and that you have to throw everything away and start over. All those sorts of things we wanted to say, »No, it doesn’t have to be like this.« We wanted to work in an almost too truthful, too direct way. Strip it right down to what men’s sportswear is really about.

What about using the same fabric through-out the collection?

ph:That really came from discovering this amaz-ing fabric. Which I think was a little bit of mas-ochism on our part! Alessandro had actually already tried using it on a couple of occasions within C.P. Company, but it had always been excluded because it was too dangerous.ap: It is a really difficult material, made by a Japanese company. The yarn is extremely inter-esting, because it’s completely different from any other material I’ve ever encountered. I re-ally wanted to try to use it but that’s impossible at a larger company, even though it’s an incred-ible fabric.

ph: It’s basically a jersey, similar to the fabric of a T-shirt, but much, much heavier. Although it has its problems. They use as many polyester microfibres as possible to create it, and because the fibres are so fine they can’t actually weave them, so they stick them together in bunches instead. It’s composed of ten or twelve microfibres in each thread, and when we go and dye it, those fibres separate. It’s a knitted fabric, which makes things much more difficult. It’s not as stable as a woven fabric, and when we come to dye it we have shrinkages ranging from 2% to 15%. So every roll of fabric has to be tested at the begin-ning, the middle, and the end. If you’re working in big production, a brand like C.P. Company or Stone Island, you understandably don’t want that kind of problem. On top of all that it’s also very expensive. It’s one of those things that you usually try once, and even though the results are amazing, it’s too risky and you don’t touch it again. For some reason, we couldn’t let go of it, and wanted to try to find a way to make it work for us.

So what is it that really defines Ten C for you both; what is it that you want the gar-ments to say to the person that picks them up for the first or thousandth time?

ph: We would like them to take away something precious, and something that they will treasure.

striP it riGHt down to wHat Men’s sPortswear is reaLLy aBout


That sounds really silly, but ultimately that’s the goal. We have every piece of the collection here, and every time you try something on, no matter how many times, you always think, »Fucking hell, this is amazing.« The idea of having some-thing you love, something really precious to you, is really powerful, and that’s important to us. One of the things that first inspired this whole thing was my grandmother’s wooden spoon, which is over a hundred years old now, and re-ally reflects that whole idea. It’s just such a nice object, and it means the world to me, and what we want to do is to follow that idea in some way. A lot of craftsmanship has disappeared over the years, and that’s a real shame. I have a carpenter I work with for example, who’s about sixty now, and he’s made four different wardrobes for me. All the joints are still dovetailed; there’s some glue and occasionally a screw, but the whole thing just sticks together, and gets better and better over time. If you just take one drawer out and look at it, you think, »Fucking hell, that’s great.« And that’s the feeling we want Ten C to provide. Maybe someone’s opening their own wardrobe in the summer, and they just touch a Ten C jack-et there and think, »Wow, that’s great,« and they look forward to the weather turning so that they can wear it again.

The Ten C business model is not sensible. It’s expensive, time-consuming, and goes against the traditional fashion industry standard. To produce something at great cost, and to charge a lot for it, is not playing to the rules in which the system abides — to produce as much as you can, as often and as cheaply as you can, for as much money as you can make from it. What the Ten C method does instead, is cater to the few that seek an alternative; those that appreciate fashion for all its design orientated innovation, but want something to last and to cherish.

we wouLd LiKe tHeM to taKe away soMetHinG PreCious, and soMe-tHinG tHat tHey wiLL treasure

read the full version of this story in

issue 09 of inventory

aLessandro and i wanted to do soMetHinG For ourseLves

Get your FREE COPy

at our L.O.C.K.

Booth

iCH

Bin

enGL

isH


tasCHendieBeADRIAN PARVuLESC

FotosCLAuDIA RECH

styling

Verena Gillmeier Haare und Make-up Kajsa Blom stylingassistenz

Nicholas @ Indeed, Ella @ Izaio, Lian, Clemens

Models

Besonderen Dank an das Hotel Bogota und Joachim Rissmann

V9N12


von LinKs naCH reCHts

Hemd und Hose von Dickies, Schal von AmericanApparel, Vintage-Mantel, Kette und Schuhe; Vintage-Jacke, Pullover und Schal, Schuhe von Monki, Hose von Nhu Duong

Jacke von Cheap Monday; Hose von Nhu Duong, Kleid von Vaisslle, Tasche von Weekday, Jacke vonMTWTFSS/HE By Weekday

Top, Rock und Korsett von Nhu Duong, Vintage-Schuhe

Kimono von Monki; Hemd von Dickies

Hemd von Dickies, Vintage-Pullover, Hose von Nhu Duong, Tasche von MTWTFSS/HE By Weekday, Kette von Cheap Monday, Sonnenbrille von Carhartt

Sweatshirt von Nike; Hemd von American Apparel, Gürtel von Weekday Collection, Vintage-Rock, Schuhe von Cheap Monday, Handschuhe von Nike

Jacke von Carhartt; T-Shirt und Schal von American Apparel, Vintage-Mantel, Latzhose von Dickies; Jackevon American Apparel, Vintage-Schal

Kimono von Monki, Halskette von Bershka; Hose vonNike

Hose von Nhu Duong, Kleid von Vaisslle, Tasche von Weekday, Jacke von MTWTFSS/HE By Weekday, Schuhe von Cheap Monday;Hose von Dickies, Jacke von Cheap Monday, T-Shirt von American Apparel, Vintage-Schuhe und Halskette

Kimono von Monki, Halskette von Bershka; Hose von Nike

Hemd von Dickies, Kimono von Monki, Leggings von Nike, Vintage-Top, -Socken und -Schuhe; Latzhose von Dickies, Hemd von Dickies, BH von Monki

read this story and many more in our brand new

magazine issue!

Get your FREE COPy

at the B&B Magazine

Lounge

iCH

Bin

deut

sCH

Preview 41 BreadandButter winter 2014

The Do’s and Don’ts of Doing Business in the USA

Making it in aMerica — by Gus Floris, Founder Editor-in-Chief , Apparel Insiders

with a population of well over 300,000,000 people, the United States has always been looked at by international fashion brands as the Promised Land. The

thought process by many is, “If we can do 15 mil-lion euro throughout Europe, imagine what we can do in the U.S.” That, my friends, is the first and worst misconception about doing business in here in The States.

As with any market you are trying to break into, establishing your brand in the U.S. takes research and planning. The fact of the matter is, the Amer-ican fashion market is very different from Europe and the wrong move can put you out of business.

To help you understand the market somewhat better, here are several points of consideration:

1 PoPulationFor one thing, of the 300 million+ consumers,

13% are males between the ages of 16–36 and 14% are females. Of those 87 million, you’ll be lucky if 10% are potential customers. Obviously these numbers have a margin of error and can skew up or down. Additionally, of the billions of dollars spent on apparel, only 10% of that is in the premium marketplace. The point being, that although the USA has the third largest popula-tion, only a small percent would buy your par-ticular product.

2 retail landscaPeThe retail landscape is much different in the

U.S. While most of the European market is pre-dominantly specialty store driven, the USA is made up of a mixture of independent specialty

stores, specialty store chains, department stores and mass merchants. In order to grow beyond $25 million in turnover, you need the department store business. And the department store busi-ness is an extremely difficult tier of distribution. Business practices in the US include: shipping on consignment, looking for the smallest dis-crepancy in the order to charge you back and when product goes on sale (which is often far too early in the selling season), the brand needs to make up the margin the retailers are loosing. These practices are mainly unheard of through-out Europe but are common in America.

3 cultureWhat sells on one continent does not neces-

sarily sell on another. Lifestyles, body types and local customs reflect on what the consumer will and will not wear. Although it’s important to stay true to the brand identity, it’s just as impor-tant to adjust and embrace the market that you are trying to penetrate. In addition to understanding the market you are getting into, you also need to adjust your way of thinking and doing business.

1. Think big but act small. Put your pride and brand arrogance aside and start small. There is no need for a big office, a large staff and your own warehouse facility.

2. Don’t hire your European buddy because he speaks your language. Bring in an experienced and well-regarded operator. A Managing Direc-tor from within the US that has the retail con-nections that can get your product placed and give you important feedback.

3. Hire yourself a U.S.-centric merchandiser that understands the market and consumer buying trends. If you find the right Managing Director, they can assume this role as well. But in either case you will need someone to help edit, adjust

and merchandise your collection to reflect an American mindset. Notice I didn’t say DESIGN. I’m not suggesting redesigning your collection. I only recommend adjusting it, so the American retailer understands it and isn’t overwhelmed.

4. One of the biggest obstacles European brands have when coming to the U.S. is their production schedule. They typically close their wholesale season too early to take advantage of the ex-tremely late buying that happens in the U.S. If you want to do business here and capitalize on the retailers delayed order placing, you need to be more flexible and extend your selling season.

5. Finally, be patient. It takes time and persever-ance to conquer any new land. Start off small, build a strong specialty store distribution and grow within that tier of distribution. You need to have, at the very least, four complete seasons of shipping and selling in the specialty store market before even considering going into the department store business.

There is no sure fire way to success but Prepara-tion is the Mother of Victory and in order to suc-ceed here you need to be patient, risk tolerant and trust and empower the people you put in charge of your brand.

apparel insiders is a business-to-business media com-pany based in the us. with a unique editorial point of view published both online and in print, apparel insiders has become the new voice of contemporary sportswear industry. ai reports on and features the people, brands, stores and trends that are moving the fashion industry forward. apparel insiders is dedicated to championing the branded fashion business.

www.aPParelinsiders.coM


magazine issue!

although it’s iMPortant to stay true to the Brand identity, it’s just as iMPortant to adjust and eMBrace the Market that you are trying to Penetrate.

ich

Bin

engl

ish

www.apparelinsiders.

com

Press & News

pr ess & NeWs42 Preview BreadandButter winter 2014

Bread & Butter

This season sees contemporary trade show BrEAD & BUTTEr return toBerlin’s Tempelhof Airport, presenting a selection of brands across thedenim, sports, street and casual sectors. mwB takes a look at whatautumn/winter 2014 has to offer.

anerkjendtScandinavian label Anerkjendt returns to the show this season with a range of signature de-signs – the focus firmly on print, yet with a clean silhouette. Highlights of the a/w 14 col-lection include a series of sweatshirts, with heavy washed front prints and printed sweats. Shirting, meanwhile, will see an update with a series of intricate prints in an autumnal colour palette of browns, blues, deep green, dark blue, army green, black, grey and white.

junk de luXeSince its acquisition by Danish fashion com-pany Minimum earlier last year, Junk de Luxe has undergone a restructure, and will be show-casing its latest collection at the a/w 14 edition of the show. With a dedicated focus on the whole-sale market for the new season, the brand has developed a more premium quality, where finer detail is key. Inspiration is drawn from creativ-ity, art, music and historical buildings, with chunky knits, leather jackets, front prints and Liberty fabrics all standing as highlights of the new range.

weekend oFFenderReturning to the Berlin show for the second con-secutive season, Weekend Offender will present both its Mainline and Category A collections. While the lines are different in design, both con-tain the brand’s signature crisp shirting and popular parka outerwear. Textured knitwear is key, with technical fleece garments featuring contrast nylon pockets and trims. A popular print throughout is paisley, seen on collars and panel detailing, while the label’s logo has been revamped for the new season in a navy and cream colour palette to create a more polished feel.

original PenguinTaking inspiration from mountainous terrains, Original Penguin presents a collection worthy of any adventure. Buyers can expect selvedge five-pocket denim and indigo bombers, layered with waffleknit Henleys. Cotton sweatshirts contrasted with print-chested pockets and shawl-collar cardigans, meanwhile, add sophis-tication. Moving through the season, the collec-tion sees two colour palettes – a rich mix of tomato, coral and plum, followed by brighter options in turquoise and crimson.colour palette to create a more polished feel.

duck and coverBritish label Duck and Cover does what it does best this season, using Bread & Butter as the plat-form to showcase its a/w 14 collection of outerwear and knits, alongside tees, denim and accessories. Drawing inspiration from ship building, oil-rig workers and welders, workwear influences can be seen throughout, with key styles including multi-pocket outerwear, MA1 models and padded jackets with detachable linings. Combi textures modernise the collection, as knitwear is teamed with melton and leather while fur hoods are part-nered with rubberised trims.

tiMBerl andThe focus for Timberland this season is on ver-satility, bringing the great outdoors into the city. Focusing on style that is rugged, refined and, of course, sustainable, the brand’s footwear col-lection features weather-ready two-tone boots through to trend-led suede sneakers. Timber-land’s apparel range, meanwhile, focuses on refined styling with functional detailing. Supple leather jackets, tailored blazers perfect for layer-ing and heavy-weight outerwear options create a musthave winter outerwear offer.

elvineWinter is the season when Swedish label Elvine really comes into its own, and a/w 14 is no dif-ferent. Designed under the ethos that jackets “should be warm, functional and refined”, the latest drop features bomber jackets through to parkas with fur-lined hoods. A muter colour palette, meanwhile, sees variations of grey, black, blue, wine and orange.

ele ven ParisFrench brand Eleven Paris will be returning this season with both its men’s and womenswear offer. Retaining its signature Parisian design ethos – simple, classic wardrobe staples with a trendappropriate twist – the brand contin-ues to develop its many sub-divisions. Spanning apparel, footwear, accessories and charity col-laborations, key campaigns include the Movem-ber x Eleven Paris T-shirt capsule collection.


magazine issues!

original Penguin

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

engl

ish

pr ess & NeWs Preview 43 BreadandButter winter 2014

anerkjendt

junk de luXe

weekend oFFender

duck and cover

tiMBerl and

elvine

ele ven Paris


djssuch as British musician and producer James Lavelle. Though the brand prefers to focus on sources that resonate with a rebellious spirit of invention. Maher continues: “Each season we work with thematic motifs. Over the years we have been inspired by a wide range of things; early zeppelin travel, arctic submarine explora-tion, 1940s film noir, Japanese music festivals and similar ideas… But we always begin with vintage research and then work to create pro-gressive new ideas. In fact our mantra is: ‘Wor-ship tradition but destroy convention’”. He adds: “Worshipping tradition is important because it teaches us how crucial is quality, although we don’t want to look backwards every day. I believe that it is also important to destroy conventions. This way we can create modern contemporary garments with a genuine sense of history”.

And what about the future evolution of the den-im and sportswear market? “If we can deliver products that are both 100% useful and 100% meaningful for people, the market should evolve in a very cool way”, he says.

— by Maria Cristina Pavarini Editor

last year Liam Maher, design director of the Dutch brand Denham the Jean-maker, participated the event-exhibi-tion “The Hard Graft: DJ Technique Applies to Menswear” he worked on

with Sam Lambert & Shaka Maidoh, founders of A.C.F.-Art Comes First. The initiative was so successful that it also moved around the world and was presented at different trade shows and in several cities. For these events Maher’s creative process is reminiscent of a DJ at work: “I have often felt that designing menswear has many similarities with what a DJ does when remixing standards from music genres such as jazz and pop. A menswear designer has to try and harmonize the most potent influences from his vintage research into a single contemporary concept”, he says. Thus he presented single

items or outfits that can include elements tak-en from different products, segments, countries and decades.

Maher and his team produced a selection of pieces inspired by different singers and genres all expressing different zeitgeist together. Through the process actual garments were dis-assembled and reassembled into new clothing concepts that mixed past legends of music with contemporary pioneers such as, for instance, Thelonius Monk, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Chet Baker, Jimi Hendrix, Billy Bragg, Bob Gedolf, Ian Dury, Peter Murphy, Robin Gibb, Matisyahu and Yasijn Bey.

Maher generally appreciates how an item can be dissected, hybridized and symbolically res-titched: “In one piece, for instance, I happened to combine a 1960s rocker style biker jacket sourced during a holiday in Edinburgh, a 1990s calfskin shirt bought as new in Amsterdam, a WWII British Navy cap patch sourced during a business trip to the UK and a deadstock corduroy

workwear waistcoat bought at Clignancourt in Paris. In that piece I had stitched together four stylistic areas, three cultures, one world war and a myriad of personal memories—as I had done for almost every item of our DJ Technique events”.

When designing for Denham Maher follows similar paths: “My work at Denham is more sharply focused on our brand’s roots in workwear and utility ideas but the process is very much the same”, he says. “I start taking inspiration from the naturally rich historical narratives of the past through our vintage research archive–the DGL (Denham Garment Library) and the lessons of our predecessors sometimes buried within these garments. I then try to weave those to-gether with more modern characteristics relat-ing to the energy, optimism, speed and dynamism we associate with the future.”

Music plays a key role at Denham–founder Jason Denham has a passion for it and often signs col-laborations with interesting music personalities

Creativity can proceed through unexpected hybridization paths. Liam maher, design director of Denham, believes in the importance of mixing elements from different decades, countries and segments just like a DJ with his own mix.

at work


aBout denhaM the jeanMaker

— Founder: Jason Denham — Founded: 2008 — Monobrand stores: Eight (four in Amsterdam, one in London and three in Japan–two in Tokyo and one in Osaka) — Wholesale doors: 400 — Key markets: Netherlands, Germany, UK and Japan — Growing markets: Belgium, Italy, Scandinavia and working with key retailers in Asia and Australia — Domestic sales: 47% of the total 2012 sales — Export: 28% from EU and 25% from rest of world (mainlyJapan) — New product: Category 5, a classic five-pocket jean available in four fits for both men and women characterized by progressive washes and inspired by the brand’s own archives

aBout liaM Maher

Maher is the great grandson of an Irish tailor, son of a profes-sor and nephew of a comic book artist. His early career in-cluded directing global creative for Timberland and Burton Snowboards. While working for Oilily (2001–2008) as creative director he also consulted for Hiroki Nakamura’s Visvim during the brand’s inception and contributed to Joe Corre and Simon Armitage’s A Child of the Jago during the label’s launch phase. His own Young Meagher & The Militant Guild of Rural Tailors project was featured in Tokyo, New York and Los Angeles. He joined Jason Denham in 2008 as he was forming the Denham brand and still serves as the label’s design director.

LEfT pAGE, f. L.: Denham designer Liam Maher, Shaka Maidoh and Sam Lambert, the founders of the exhibit “the hard graft: DJ technique applied to menswear” ThIS pAGE: pieces from the exhibition


magazine issue!

Visit us at our Booth at

Urban Base!

ich

Bin

engl

ish


draPers

— by eriC MusGraVe +44 7702 628848 [email protected]

Bread&Butter will be celebrating its 13th anniversary in July this year, but Drap-ers is slightly ahead in seniority — on August 6 2014 the renowned British B2B title will rack up 127 years of serv-

ing its community.

The creation of a Victorian publishing entrepre-neur (who also founded the Financial Times in 1888, the year after the first appearance of The Drapers’ Record, to give it its correct original title, Drapers has developed and changed along with the industry it has informed so well. And in this digital age it continues to do so, with drap-ersonline.com and a busy programme of awards, conferences and networking events complement-ing the weekly magazine. Both the site and the printed publication were given a new look at the beginning of this year.

The magazine has had a very close supportive relationship with BBB ever since the debut show in Cologne way back in July 2001. The magazine was called Drapers Record in those days, but Drapers was created in October 2002 by the merger of Drapers Record and its brother pub-lication Menswear. That move was overseen by editorial director Eric Musgrave, who sees con-siderable similarities between the work of a trade paper and a trade show. “We both exist to bring together the fashion community, to share infor-mation and views, and to give a lead to new direc-tions. Drapers mainly does this in two dimen-sions, while Bread&Butter does it primarily in 3-D. It’s been great to be associated with this amazing event for more than a dozen years.”

For most of its existence BBB has attracted more important British brands and more significant British buyers than any show in the UK. Drapers has played a pivotal role in establishing the show’s

reputation and credentials. Its coverline from 26 July 2003 — Berlin Rocks! — perfect-ly summed up the mood of the early shows in the German capital.

Drapers was slightly sceptical about the move to Barcelona in July 2005, but it was one of the first to report on the brilliant reaction to this exciting move. As the fair was such a massive collection of the jeanswear-streetwear world, Drapers used it to research in-depth reports of upcoming trends.

At the July 2011 show, the editorial team from London descended on Tempelhof and shot its entire special streetwear supplement using ex-hibitors as the best models for their own clothes. It was a great manifestation of the synergy be-tween the industry, the fair and the magazine.

After leaving Drapers in 2006, Eric Musgrave spent seven years as a freelance writer and con-tributed a couple of times to the BBB Tradeshow Guide. Using experience gained working for Sportswear International in the 1980s and 1990s, he wrote a long piece about the Urban Superior phenomenon for the January 2012 show and about the denim market for the July 2012 edition. He was spotted on the Candiani stand at the Temple of Denim that season selecting his cus-tomised jeans.

After a break of seven years and seven weeks, Musgrave returned to Drapers as editorial direc-tor in July 2013 and is now looking forward to adding to his large collection of BBB lanyards and ID cards. “It’s interesting to see BBB adapt-ing to changes in the market, just as Drapers is doing with its new look for the magazine and the website. Like the fair, our work will never be done, it will never be finished, we just have to keep analysing what our community wants and delivering it.”

To highlight streetwear trends for the upcoming season, Drapers fashion team of Graeme Moran and Emily Norval did an excellent edgy shoot in London with photographer Leonn Ward, ex-amples of which we show here. As usual, the Drapers team will be at BBB in force this season. “I’d like to see brands and buyers uniting behind Karl-Heinz Miller and his talented gang as we have all had some great times at Bread&Butter. Let’s hope they continue for many years to come,” says Musgrave.

JANUARY 18 2014 £4.75 WWW.DRAPERSONLINE.COM

F O R A L L T H E F A S H I O N B U S I N E S S

StreetwearAutumn 14


magazine issue!

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

engl

ish


Berlino città

aPerta

l’iniziativa ha determinato un effetto domino: il salone Panorama, che ha debuttato un anno fa nel nuovissimo Berlin ExpoCenter Airport a Schönefeld, si è detto pronto a istituire un “con-sumer day”, mentre Img, che organizza la Mer-cedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, già da questa edizione apre per la prima volta al pubblico la tensostruttura alla Porta di Brandeburgo il 18 gennaio, in occasione della sfilata “Shop the Runway presented by Fashion ID”. Un’idea svi-luppata insieme a Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf e al suo e-store Fashion ID. In pedana verranno presentati i look della prossima stagione estiva di marchi come Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, Sir Oliver, Gant e Napapijri, che pochi giorni dopo saranno in vendita nei negozi P&C, così come sul sito del retailer. Le distanze si riducono sem-pre più, dunque, tra il fashion system e i cosid-detti “consumatori-attori”, le cui scelte d’acqui-sto partono da una nuova consapevolezza. Karl-Heinz Müller e, in seconda battuta, altri berlinesi se ne sono accorti prima degli altri.

— elena azzola Autrice

ich bin ein Berliner” (“Io sono un berlinese”): con questo slogan, che riprende la famosa frase pronunciata da John F. Kennedy in visita ufficiale a Berlino Ovest nel 1963, parte una nuova edizione di Bread&Butter,

il salone dello sportswear e della moda giovane, di scena dal 14 al 16 gennaio al Tempelhof. Un percorso articolato nelle sezioni Urban Base, D.O.C.K., Urban Fashion, Urban Superior, Trea-sury e L.O.C.K. con Fire Dep. at L.O.C.K., per un un totale di circa 500 marchi in mostra. Una realtà espositiva che ha fatto molto parlare di sé nelle ultime settimane, a causa della decisione di apri-re al pubblico dalla seconda edizione del 2014. Il suo artefice, Karl-Heinz Müller, è abituato, per la verità, ad attirare attenzioni e polemiche su di sé: è da sempre un innovatore, da quando lanciò questa rivoluzionaria piattaforma (a metà strada tra l’appuntamento di business e l’happening, dove divertirsi e trovare ispirazione) a Colonia nel lontano 2001, a quando decise di trasferirla a Berlino nel gennaio 2003, intuendo le potenzial-ità di una città giovane e affascinante, ancora completamente digiuna in fatto di moda. Ci fu poi l’alternanza “stagionale” con Barcellona (dal 2005 al 2007). Quindi il trasloco in via esclusiva nella capitale della Catalogna (dal 2007 al 2009) e, infine, il ritorno in grande stile a Berlino, nella scenografica location del Berlin-Tempelhof Air-port. Ora, un altro decisivo punto di svolta per la “creatura” di Müller: il salone “a porte aperte”, a partire dalla prossima edizione di luglio. Una decisione motivata dai cambiamenti in atto nell’assetto distributivo e non solo. «Molti marchi mostrano sempre meno interesse a presentarsi esclusivamente al canale wholesale - afferma Müller -. L’aumento delle catene verticalizzate, dei monomarca e degli shop online ha spostato progressivamente il focus di molti partecipanti verso l’ultimo anello della filiera distributiva: il consumatore finale». Müller è critico anche ver-so la piega che ha preso la moda nella città del Muro. Il fondatore di Bread&Butter vede il peri-colo che Berlino diventi una sede anonima di manifestazioni sul fashion, dopo che numerose organizzazioni e fiere si sono insediate qui, cav-alcando l’onda lunga del successo ottenuto dalla più recente delle capitali internazionali dello stile. «In questo modo si è arrivati a un punto di satu-razione anche a Berlino - commenta Müller -. Si pesca tutti nello stesso stagno e quasi nessuno ha un profilo ben definito». Di qui la voglia di rime-scolare le carte con una nuova formula, che sta

destando scalpore ma anche generando proseliti, in alcuni casi già da questa tornata di moda nella capitale tedesca.

CiNQue GiorNi aL Posto Di tre e aL Via i PuBLiC DaysMa partendo da Bread&Butter, il programma al Tempelhof a luglio 2014 sarà articolato su cinque giorni, anziché sui canonici tre: il primo (l’8 lu-glio) sarà dedicato alla stampa, nei due giorni successivi (9 e 10 luglio), definiti “professional days”, gli interlocutori saranno i compratori e i dettaglianti e, infine, negli ultimi due (11 e 12 luglio), i cosiddetti “public days”, la manifesta-zione si aprirà al pubblico. La suddivisione del-le giornate in base al target di riferimento non sarà rigida: i rappresentanti dei media e gli ope-ratori professionali potranno infatti visitare la fiera durante tutti e cinque i giorni di svolgimen-to. Invece il consumatore finale sarà accolto solo nelle due giornate conclusive, in cui si concen-treranno, tra l’altro, concerti ed eventi. Per il pubblico il biglietto di entrata giornaliero sarà di 25 euro. Per gli addetti ai lavori la policy di ammissione rimarrà invariata, ossia gratuita per tutti i professionisti il cui business è stret-tamente legato a BBB e di 500 euro per coloro che invece utilizzano questa piattaforma per andare a caccia di clienti. «Non si venderà al consumatore finale», chiarisce Karl-Heinz Mül-ler, che vuole assolutamente evitare di entrare in rotta di collisione con i dettaglianti. Tuttavia, le aziende potranno mostrare le nuove collezio-ni o quelle in arrivo nei negozi agli appassionati di moda durante i “public days”. Per gli esposi-tori il prezzo al metro quadro degli stand sarà ritoccato, passando da 380 a 400 euro al giorno. «Le fiere tradizionali non bastano più - afferma Müller -. I consumatori oggi sono in grado di dare stimoli all’industria del fashion: sono loro la chiave di volta e i brand desiderano entrare di-rettamente in contatto con loro».

aLtri attori soNo ProNti a raCCo-GLiere La sFiDa“Global hub of modern lifestyle” è la definizione più calzante che il guru di Bread&Butter trova per spiegare questo nuovo, inclusivo format, che si rivolge a tutti gli anelli della filiera. «Sebbene ci siano alcune realtà che mi hanno comunicato di voler riconsiderare la loro posizione, non sto facendo questo per riportare i big brand a Bread&Butter, come alcuni dicono», chiarisce il managing director della kermesse. Le reazio-ni al nuovo corso da parte dei rappresentanti del settore sono state infatti di segno diverso, ma nel complesso positive. Quello che è certo è che


magazine issue!

Karl-heinz müller di Bread & Butter aprirà il salone al pubblico a partire dall’edizione di luglio 2014. Intanto a Berlino l’effetto domino è già cominciato

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

ital

iano


— Bruno Collin Author

Et pour s’intéresser davantage aux nouveaux phénomènes gravitant autour de notre quotidien, nous nous sommes intéressés à l’avis de Bruno Collin, co-fondateur du WAD. En effet, fort d’une vaste expérience de l’univers de la mode, Bruno bénéficie d’une maîtrise des codes du milieu et d’un recul suffisant afin de juger ces transfor-mations, et de partager sa vision des choses.

Aujourd’hui, les marques vivent un tournant dans leur stratégie de communication et de créa-tion. L’heure n’est plus à la prolifération et à la multiplication de collections et de produits en tout genre, et ce pour de nombreuses raisons dont la plus importante semble être la période de crise que nous traversons. En effet, les consommateurs vivent cette période comme une occasion de se recentrer sur l’essentiel et de trouver refuge dans des valeurs sûres et réconfortantes. Un état d’esprit que les labels de mode ont bien compris, et qui les pousse désormais à un retour aux sources, en se concentrant sur leur ADN et leur histoire. De la sorte, le label Edwin travaille corps et âme sur ses jeans à la toile japonaise haut de gamme. Connue depuis 1947 pour son authen-ticité, son savoir-faire et ses valeurs éthiques, la marque de denim renouvelle ses collections par le biais de diverses techniques de délavage bien spécifiques. L’enjeu est donc celui-ci, fusionner la tradition et la modernité, provoquer la ren-contre entre patrimoine et innovation, le tout sans perdre l’essentiel, et sans se perdre soi-même en tant que représentant d’une marque aux ra-cines profondes. Aussi l’exemple de marques comme Aigle ou Timberland coule de source. A l’origine de basiques forts qu’elles ont su revisi-ter à travers les années, ces marques reviennent aujourd’hui sur le devant de la scène après avoir cultivé leur singularité.

Il faut dire que l’on voit au loin le rideau se refer-mer sur le règne de la sneaker. Et celle qui semble tirer son épingle du jeu, c’est la botte. En cuir, en daim ou en caoutchouc, son style authentique séduit, mais pour autant ici le risque est le même, et pour innover au-delà des acquis, les boots deviennent hybrides, et intègrent l’allure de la basket. On retiendra notamment l’exemple du modèle Burford par Onitsuka Tiger, présentant une bottine dans une sneaker ou une sneaker dans une bottine. Dolfie et Dr Martens se sont aussi prêtées au jeu avec brio, à travers une bot-tine à franges aux inspirations indiennes pour Dolfie, et une bottine en cuir métallique argenté et à la semelle façon basket chez Dr Martens. Ainsi, l’identité de la marque reste présente, tout en proposant un produit nouveau et davantage destiné à l’univers urbain. Ce qui est ici remar-quable du côté du footwear se retrouve alors dans le vêtement chez Diesel, à travers sa ligne de Jogg Jeans. Des plus novatrices, les pièces de cette gamme se veulent aussi confortables qu‘un jog-ging, tout en gardant l‘esthétique du denim. Mais la marque ne s‘arrête pas là en terme d‘innova-

tion. Avec ses jeans à la technologie 3D, Diesel revisite ses modèles traditionnels en les dôtant d‘une technologie exclusive, à l‘esthétique inédite et préformée et à la texture améliorée. En effet, ces jeans sont conçus comme s‘ils avaient déjà été portés, apportant confort et style nouveau. Diesel démontre une prouesse stylistique dans sa démarche, en inscrivant ses évolutions dans le temps tout en préservant son marché.

Un autre point primordial aux yeux du co-fon-dateur du WAD, ce sont les relations entre les différentes marques. Le succès d‘une marque devrait aujourd‘hui se déceler à travers sa com-plémentarité avec une autre. En effet, au-delà de la concurrence, les labels doivent désormais songer à unir leur expertise et leur singularité au profit d‘un nouveau marché urbain, plus riche et diversifié. D‘où l‘importance des collaborations entre labels, comme Cha mpion x Su-preme, BWGH x Puma, ou encore Herschel x New Balance, pour n‘en citer que quelques unes. Ces partenariats mettent en avant une recon-naissance commune et une envie de fusionner les divergences jusqu‘à sortir des frontières. Si l‘on considère la contribution de Jérémy Scott pour Adidas, il va s‘en dire que le créateur a ap-porté un élan créatif à la marque de sports, l‘éle-vant au rang de marque de mode à part entière grâce à une distinction entre deux lignes : Adidas Originals, gamme plus pointue, et Adidas Per-formance, dédiée au sport. Aujourd‘hui, la marque de sport s‘associe au créateur belge Raf Simons pour l‘élaboration de sneakers, aux lignes et aux couleurs démentielles. Une manière de mixer les influences et les domaines d‘expertise, pour ce créateur imprégné dans le domaine du luxe, mais avide d‘individualité et inspiré par le quo-tidien conflictuel des ados. Aller au-delà de ce que l‘on connait, voilà un exercice auquel se sont prêtées d‘autres marques et dans d‘autres cir-constances. L‘on assiste aujourd‘hui à une mode beaucoup moins unisexe qu‘auparavant, avec une distinction homme/femme forte. Les col-lections femme et les collections homme ne sont donc plus qu‘une simple adaptation de l‘autre, mais chaque ligne se veut pensée et conçue en pensant spécifiquement au client, et donc au genre. Aussi, G-star, marque initialement mas-culine, développe aujourd‘hui de plus en plus sa ligne womenswear, tentant de rompre son image de marque 100% masculine, alors qu‘Eleven Paris arrivait en 2003 avec deux collections spécifiques pour l‘homme et pour la femme. On constate alors cette particularité chez les jeunes labels, une distinction immédiate du genre, avec des collections adaptées à chacun.

Finalement, cultiver les différences entre deux univers permet de mieux laisser éclater au grand jour leurs similitudes et de les valoriser, créant de nouvelles perspectives et révélant de nouveaux points communs en partageant l‘essence de chaque marque. En un sens, la vague de collabo-rations que l‘on constate aujourd‘hui répond à un phénomène de mouvement dans les tendances. Des tendances qui, au lieu d‘aller et venir, per-durent et se réinterprètent de multiples façons, en puisant toujours dans la tradition et l‘authen-ticité de chaque maison. Si l‘imprimé léopard

n‘est aujourd‘hui plus associé aux filles de petite vertu, l‘imprimé camouflage a également ren-versé les barrières et n‘est plus réservé au milieu militaire. En effet, le léopard a retrouvé ses lettres de noblesse grâce à la toute première collabora-tion entre Adidas et Jérémy Scott en 2001. Les joggings et track jackets aux imprimés léopard ont ainsi marqué l‘époque et donner de la crédi-bilité à la marque, tant la popularité de Jérémy Scott est, à cette époque, flamboyante. Une col-laboration réussie lorsque l‘on considère que le partenariat entre les deux marques ne cesse de se renouveler, proposant des collections toujours plus folles. Du côté du camouflage, c‘est Carharrt le maître de l‘imprimé. Revisité de manière tan-tôt graphique, tantôt colorée, la marque lui confère un terrain de jeu beaucoup plus vaste que le simple domaine militaire, en lui offrant le statut fort de „tendance“.

Pour autant, avec l‘ampleur qu‘ont pris les réseaux sociaux et le monde digital, les tendances fusent et se veulent plus vastes, donnant aux marques du fil à retordre.

Avec un marché bousculé par internet, la com-munication n‘a jamais été autant à l‘honneur, et chaque label se doit de relever le challenge d‘un beau support médiatique, pensé et travaillé à l‘image de son univers, afin de diffuser son actua-lité de la manière la plus cohérente. Ainsi, les marques se détachent de plus en plus des bureaux de presse multimarques pour gérer elles-même leur communication, en s‘alliant par exemple avec des photographes ou des magazines pour alimenter leur propre média. Bien sûr, ces par-tenariats ne sont pas les seuls couronnés de suc-cès, ce qui fonctionne particulièrement bien à l‘heure actuelle, ce sont les réseaux sociaux. Aussi des marques comme Lacoste ou Levi‘s comptent plus de 12 millions de followers sur facebook et 400 000 sur twitter. Un record de chiffres impressionnant qui démontre alors l‘enjeu d‘une bonne relation avec ses clients. Car aujourd‘hui, alors que tournent les blogs de mode et les galeries de looks comme Lookbook.nu, la mode se doit de travailler au plus près de ses consommateurs. Des consommateurs soucieux de leur image, mais après tout quoi de plus pri-mordial lorsque l‘on sait que l‘issue d‘un premier contact avec une nouvelle personne repose dans l‘apparence physique, et de surcroît dans le mes-sage passé via sa tenue vestimentaire ? Chacun s‘approprie alors les codes d‘une maison, rema-

nie les pièces d‘une collection selon sa façon d‘être et personnalise ainsi au maximum son look final, mixant des marques de masse à des marques de luxe, sans oublier les labels street et urbains.

A l‘heure où tous les styles se mélangent et où l‘on aspire à se créer son propre look, la réalité du marché est telle que le consommateur, plus que jamais, est roi. Un statut que les salons pro-fessionnels ont bien compris, comme le Bread and Butter qui s‘ouvrira dès l‘été prochain au grand public, pour le plus grand plaisir des consommateurs avertis et curieux, désireux de connaître en avant-première les futures ten-dances et d‘anticiper leur tenue de demain.

2014 se lève, et avec elle s’enclenchent de nouveaux modes de consommation. Des stratégies de marque aux collaborations mode, en passant par nos nouvelles façons d’acheter, les codes ont changé et le marché a évolué.

l’adn des Marques au coeur d’un nouveau Marché


magazine issue!

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

Fran

cais

anzeige Bench


„der anFang war ein alBtrauM“

— Franziska Klün Interview — Katharina Poblotzki fotos

herr Candiani, sie sind erst 31 Jahre alt und gelten bereits als einer der führenden Denim-experten weltweit. Wie macht man das?Meine Erfahrung reicht ja auch

schon ziemlich weit zurück! Ich bin wortwört-lich in einer Denim-Fabrik geboren und auf-gewachsen, die Häuser meiner Familie stehen auf dem Gelände von TRC Candiani. Als Kind spielte ich mit Baumwolle, ich habe immer in dieser Umgebung gelebt. An dem Tag, als ich meinen Universitätsabschluss feierte, feierten wir auch meinen Einstand bei TRC Candiani. Nicht einmal für eine Woche wollte mein Vater mich gehen lassen. Insofern liegt meine Ex-pertise in meiner DNA.

Hätten sie auch ausbrechen und etwas kom-plett anderes tun können? Hatten sie eine Wahl?Leider nein. Am Anfang war das ein Albtraum, schließlich wusste ich lange nicht, ob es mir gefallen wird, eines Tages die Fabrik meiner Familie zu übernehmen. Ich fand Jeans immer gut, aber es war keine große Leidenschaft damit verbunden. Ich bin kein Denim-Fanatiker oder so. Ich interessiere mich für viele andere Dinge — Technologie, Kultur, insbesondere Musik. Ich habe immer selbst Musik gemacht. Erst als DJ, doch als es plötzlich cool wurde aufzulegen und das alle machten, musste ich rebellie-ren—also habe ich eine Band gegründet, „Army of the Universe“. Uns gibt es weiterhin, wir touren und sind vor allem in Amerika bekannt. Und als es dann bei Candiani ernst wurde und ich dort anfing, gefiel es mir plötzlich doch. sie waren 28, als sie die Firma übernahmen. Fühlten sie sich je zu jung für dieses große erbe?Nein, nie. Aber der Prozess der Übernahme ist auch noch nicht abgeschlossen. Mein Vater ist weiterhin Vorsitzender des Unternehmens —

und das ist gut so. Er ist noch präsent in der Fir-ma und löst sich gleichzeitig emotional immer mehr davon. Viele ihrer Mitarbeiter arbeiten ihr Leben lang bei Candiani, selbst deren eltern war-en bei ihnen angestellt, voraussichtlich werden ihre Kinder dort arbeiten. Wie wur-den sie aufgenommen?Ich musste mich in der Firma erst einmal posi-tionieren, neue Ideen entwickeln und den Men-schen beweisen, dass ich auch in der Lage bin, das Unternehmen zu leiten, und dass ich mehr kann, als nur der Candiani-Sohn zu sein. Die erste große Veränderung unter ihrer Leitung?Die Art und Weise, wie wir unsere Stoffe prä-sentieren, haben wir verändert. Wir zeigen un-sere Materialien nun in Kleiderform, was bei den Designern sehr gut ankommt. Nachdem uns das alle anderen Jeansfabriken nachgemacht hatten, beschloss ich, ins Marketing zu inves-tieren. Anfangs glaubte ich, das selbst in die Hand nehmen zu können. Doch ich merkte schnell, dass das nicht funktioniert, und holte

„ich Musste den MitarBeitern erst einMal Beweisen, dass ich auch in der lage Bin, das unternehMen zu leiten, und dass ich Mehr kann, als nur der candiani-sohn zu sein.“

Eigentlich wollte er die weite welt sehen und nicht nur den familienbetrieb, doch schon früh war klar, dass Alberto Candiani eines Tages die Jeans-fabrik seines Vaters übernehmen werde.wie er seine rolle trotzdem gefunden hat und welche Visionen er für die Branche hat, erklärt er im Interview.


„handwerk und industrie sind keine gegensätze Mehr, und wir rePräsentieren das Meines erachtens zieMlich gut.“

Simon Giuliani zu uns. Er ist ein absolutes Mar-keting-Genie.

Wenn sie das erbe betrachten, das sie an-getreten haben, worauf sind sie besonders stolz?Anfang der 00er-Jahre als es der Wirtschaft unglaublich gut ging, brach in der Denim-Bran-che eine neue Ära an. Schöner Stretch-Denim war damals noch sehr schwer zu finden. Der größte Erfolg meines Vater und der Firma war es, einen solchen zu entwickeln. Damit wurden wir berühmt, die Nachfrage war riesig. 2004 verdoppelten wir unsere Kapazitäten, investier-ten eine Menge Geld. In der gleichen Zeitspanne, in der wir vor zehn Jahren 40 Einheiten produ-zierten, produzieren wir heute 300. Unsere Er-folgsstrategie ist es, immer zu versuchen, so innovativ wie möglich zu bleiben. Und das füh-re ich so weiter. 78 Prozent der Candiani-Ware ist stretch-Denim. Gab es je die Befürchtung, stretch könnte bloß ein trend sein?Viele dachten das und gingen davon aus, dass das Material wieder verschwinden wird. Wir aber glaubten dran und heute produzieren wir jede mögliche Form von Stretch. Als wir Ende der 90er damit anfingen, war der Bereich eine gigantische Marktlücke: Stretch, der gut aussieht und bequem ist, gab es einfach nicht. Gleichzei-tig änderten sich die Ansprüche der Frauen: Jeans wurden zu einem Fashion-Item, das spiel-te uns gut zu.

Sie haben TRC Candiani mal als überdimensi-onierten Handwerksbetrieb bezeichnet. Wenn wir uns bei Ihnen so umschauen, stehen hier aber doch eine ganze Menge Maschinen.

Es heißt immer, der Handwerksbetrieb sei der Feind der Industrie und andersherum. Ich glau-be, das stimmt nicht mehr. Wir sind ein gutes Beispiel dafür, wie man Industrie und Handwerk verbinden kann. Bei uns arbeiten 650 Leute, knapp 40 Prozent von ihnen kenne ich persönlich, die meisten stammen aus der Gegend hier. Ich führe das Unternehmen in der vierten Genera-

tion, alles ist familiär und vertraut. Natürlich haben wir große Maschinen und Roboter und all das, gleichzeitig ist der menschliche Aspekt sehr präsent. Handwerk und Industrie sind kei-ne Gegensätze mehr, und wir repräsentieren das meines Erachtens ziemlich gut.

auf einer Denim-Konferenz sagten sie kür-zlich: „Die Lücke zwischen innovation und Nachhaltigkeit wurde endlich geschlossen.“ Was meinen sie damit?Wir leben heute in einer Zeit, in der es um be-wusste Herstellungsverfahren geht, ich nenne das „Conscious Making“. Vor zehn Jahren konn-ten wir noch keine Produkte herstellen, die nachhaltig und beispielsweise aus recycelter Baumwolle waren und gleichzeitig genauso gut aussahen wie alle anderen Jeans. Heute geht das. Die Lücke, über die wir sprechen, wird auch kleiner, weil die neuen Technologien nachhal-tiger sind. Im Färbeprozess kommt man bei-spielsweise mit sehr viel weniger Wasser und weniger Chemikalien aus. Aber sehr wenige Fabriken machen Gebrauch davon. Der Wandel geschieht langsam und er ist nur in wenigen Ländern zu beobachten, das stimmt. Besonders in Italien müssen wir mehr auf unsere Umwelt achten. Und damit meine ich nicht nur die Natur, sondern auch die Arbeiter, deren Arbeitsverhältnisse und deren Sicherheit. Unsere Kunden wissen, dass sie uns vollkommen vertrauen und sich auf uns verlassen können. trotz des allmählichen Wandels gilt das Jeansgeschäft noch immer als eine der sch-mutzigsten industrien der Welt. immer wieder sieht man im Fernsehen Dokumen-tationen über chinesische Produktionsfab-riken. Die Bilder vermitteln das Gefühl, man dürfte eigentlich nie wieder eine Jeans kaufen. Hatten sie jemals grundlegende Zweifel, in der falschen Branche gelandet zu sein?Nein, das hatte ich nie. Natürlich schockieren solche Filme die westliche Welt und natürlich verändern sie das Bewusstsein, wenn man das nächste Mal in einem Geschäft eine Jeans an-

probiert. Dennoch sind das für mich keine Neu-igkeiten. Seit langer, langer Zeit weiß ich, wie viel Schmutz die Mode produzieren kann. Aber in Europa, Amerika, auch in der Türkei, Tune-sien, Marokko und Ägypten arbeitet niemand mehr mit den veralteten Techniken, die in diesen Filmen gezeigt werden. Niemand? Da habe ich aber von anderen Beispie-len gehört. Natürlich gibt es Ausnahmen und überall findet man irgendwelche Idioten, die die Regeln nicht verstanden haben. Denim wurde sehr schnell sehr populär, als man mit den Wa-schungen anfing. Viele wussten anfangs nicht, wie sie die Prozesse am besten handhaben, was wiederum zu einer enormen Wasserverschwen-dung und dem Missbrauch von Chemikalien führte. Aber heute ist die Situation in vielen Ländern eine andere. „Die Medien sollten nicht nur auf die Bad Boys der Branche zeigen, sondern auch klarstellen, wie gut es laufen kann.“

read the full version of this story of

j’n’c news

der 1938 gegründete Familienbetrieb „tessitura di robecchetto candiani s.p.a.“, kurz „trc“ oder einfach „candiani“, wird heute in vierter generation von alberto candiani geleitet. zwar spricht man bei trc nicht über seine kunden, so will es die Philosophie des hauses, dennoch ist bekannt, dass die meisten großen Premium-labels ihre denim-ware aus den hallen in robecchetto in der region lombardei beziehen. heute entstehen hier jährlich etwa 30 Millionen Meter jeansstoff, 78 Prozent davon ist stretch-denim.

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

deut

sch


Jeanslabels Nudie und Kuyichi machen den höheren Preis für ökologische und sozial ver-trägliche Herstellung durch neue Verkaufside-en wieder wett: Transparente Herstellungswe-ge, Reparatur oder Rücknahme von abgetragenen Jeans schaffen Kundenbindung und Marken-vertrauen. Welche anderen Marken können heute von 70 Prozent Umsatzsteigerung spre-chen? Recycling von getragenen Jeans ist Roh-stoff-Rückgewinnung. Mud Jeans aus den Nie-derlanden geht noch weiter und bietet seine Eco-Jeans als Leasingartikel an, um durch Recycling-fasern never-out-of-stock zu sein. Gleichzeitig schaffen es diese Eco-Labels, sich auf dem Markt ein eigenes trendiges Profil zu schaffen, was den großen Jeanslabels zunehmend schwerfällt.

* Imo-Vortrag MFS 2013; Swerea IVF, Report 2009)** Öko-Test 05/13

deniM —Gabriele Perryman Editor

seine Oberflächen werden gefärbt, aus-gewaschen, bedruckt, zerrissen — die größte Spielwiese der Stoffindus-trie ist der Denim. Finishing ist mehr denn je gefragt.

Auch für den Winter 2014 prognostiziert der WGSN Trends, die richtig Lust auf neues Styling machen: gewachste Leder-Beschichtungen, Camouflage-Drucke, Velvet Touch oder auch ein kräftiges Sports Blue, kombiniert mit vielen Patches aus dem digitalen Heute, der „Rendering Reality“ — künstlerisch bearbeitete Fotos, wie das Thema sagt. Doch der umweltzerstö-rende Einsatz beim Kampf um die coolste Ober-fläche ist hoch. Keine „Rendering Reality“, son-dern Realität: 1,8 Kilogramm Chemie auf 800 Gramm Denim* — vom Anbau bis zum ferti-gen Kleidungsstück. Pestizide auf den Baum-wollfeldern, Weichgriffmittel, die ungeborenes Leben schädigen, erdölbasierende Beschichtun-gen und Färbemittel oder auch NPE (Nonylphe-nolethoxylate), die noch im Mai von Öko-Test in Kinderjeans der größten europäischen Textil-Einzelhandelskette nachgewiesen wurden. Ein halber Teelöffel NPE im Wasservolumen eines Olympiabeckens wandelt weibliche Fische in männliche um. Was am Ende nicht in die Luft geht, bleibt in der Jeans und im Abwasser der Produktionsstätten zurück. Dort stehen zudem die Kanister mit den gefährlichen Substanzen ohne Sicherheitsdatenblätter in 89 Prozent der Firmen auf dem Gelände frei herum, so eine Greenpeace-Studie. Das führt jährlich zu mehr als 14.000 Chemieunfällen, weit weg von Deutschland (PAN Pestizid Aktions-Netzwerk). Dabei könnte in kaum einer anderen Sparte so schnell und so viel zur Reduzierung von Energie- und Wasserverbrauch, Chemie, Rohstoff und Ausbeutung getan werden wie bei der Herstellung von Denim.

umweltschonende technik steht bereitEinige Unternehmen, wie Freshtex aus Deutsch-land, Marktführer für ökologische (Jeans-)Aus-rüstungen, oder auch die spanische Firma Jea-nologia, Pioniere der Lasertechnik, gehen

proaktiv mit immer neuen Entwicklungen auf den Weltmarkt.

Lasertechnik, Nanobubbles und mehrJeanologia-Laser warten weltweit in den Pro-duktionshallen der Denimhersteller darauf, auch von führenden Jeanslabels benutzt zu wer-den. Selbst in Bangladesch unterhält die Firma ein Trainingszentrum für seine G2-Waterless-Waschmaschinen und Lasertechnik. Lasertech-nik ersetzt Sandblasting und chemisches Blei-chen. Sie birgt endlose Designmöglichkeiten, von dezenten Allover-Mustern bis hin zu Vin-tage-Jeansoptiken. Die E-Soft-Technik, eine Nano-Luftblasen-Technik, ersetzt den extrem umweltschädlichen Softening-Prozess. Eine einfache wie geniale Erfindung: Ein feuchter Luftstrom mit winzigen Luftbläschen bearbei-tet in der Waschtrommel die Stoffoberfläche, bis sie einen weichen Fall hat. Die G2-Eco-Waschmaschine ist eine spezielle Ausrüstungs-maschine, die dem Denim eine verblichene Sun-washed-Optik gibt. Die Technik arbeitet sogar schneller als herkömmliche Verfahren und ist zertifiziert durch „Made in Green“.

e-Dyeing, e-Washing und fairMit eigenen GOTS-zertifizierten Färbereien und Ausrüstungsbetrieben ist die Firma Freshtex, zugehörig zur Alt Group, in den wich-tigsten Produktionsländern wie der Türkei, Polen oder den Philippinen vor Ort. In ihren großen Maschinenparks sorgen Drei-Liter-Waschungen und Färbungen, Zero-Chemicals-Ausrüstungen durch Ozon- und Lasertechnik dafür, dass viele Denimtrends weltweit fast ohne Chemie und sogar nach GOTS-Richtlinien um-gesetzt werden können — könnten.

E-Washing und E-Dyeing bewirken geringeren Wasserverbrauch der Maschinen und Reduzie-rung des Energie- und Rohstoffverbrauchs. Die biologischen Kläranlagen der Freshtex-Betrie-be brauchen keinen Chemikalienzusatz, Son-nenkollektoren ersetzen Heizöl und lokale Ma-terialien werden zur Dampferzeugung benutzt, sodass keine unnötigen Transportwege anfallen. Über die GOTS-Richtlinien hinaus hat Freshtex eigene Sozialfonds für die Mitarbeiter einge-richtet. Das gilt nicht nur für den Planet Future, den Eco-Bereich der Firma, sondern für alle Sparten von Freshtex, von Nightshift mit tren-digen Vintage-Streetwear-Ausrüstungen bis

hin zu Function goes Fashion, mit Finishings für Funktionsbekleidung. Produktionsfirmen, wie der weltweit größte Denim-Produzent ISKO aus der Türkei (Sanko Group), profitieren von diesen Vordenkern. Über 200 Millionen Mar-kenjeans stellt ISKO pro Jahr her und damit pro Tag 550 Kilometer Denim. Durch neue Wasch-maschinen und Filteranlagen werden in seinen Betrieben nun 60 Prozent des CO2-Ausstoßes eingespart.

Co-Branding — ein Gewinn für alleDie „ISKO Earth Fit“-Kollektion wurde für „Grim Tim“ entwickelt — die erste Recycling-Jeans des schwedischen Eco-Labels Nudie. Langjäh-riger Zusammenarbeit der beiden Firmen steht nun ein geschlossener Recyclingkreislauf für

Organic Denim gegenüber. Dadurch könnten 40 Prozent Wasser, 30 Prozent Energie und Che-mikalien gespart werden. Zusammen mit den großen Ökoanbietern arbeitet das visionäre Designteam von Freshtex ständig an neuen Eco Finishings, die auch für kleine Stückzahlen bis hin zur fairen und GOTS-zertifizierten Jeans im Vollkaufgeschäft angeboten werden. In die-ser Saison wird das Thema Recyclingfasern als Ergänzung zu Organic Cotton startklar gemacht. Jeanologia, die ihr Team „mad scientists of de-nim“ nennen, erarbeiten in einem „Co-Branding“mit führenden Designern (wie Marithé & François Girbaud) und einigen Jeansprodu-zenten schon im Vorfeld Denimtrends. So können sie frühzeitig passende Umweltgeräte entwi-ckeln. Durch solche Synergien wandeln sich Eco-Jeanslabels zurzeit von Fashion-Followern zu Trendsettern. Natürlich haben Hightech-Techniken, neue Maschinen, klassisches Stone Washing oder handgebürstete Oberflächen vor-erst einen höheren Preis. Auch Naturindigo ist teurer als chemisches Indigo.

aber…die junge Branche übernimmt ökologische Ver-antwortung und boomt. Die beliebtesten Eco-

eco undcool haBen sichgeFunden.


magazine issue!

und die uMwelt

ich

Bin

deut

sch


only Bad

sales PeoPle

are eXPensive!

—by stephan Huber Editor-in-Chief

it is no coincidence that Willy Oergel, the chief executive of Breuninger, focused his speech at the opening of his company’s spec-tacular new flagship department store in Düsseldorf’s Kö-Bögen on his employees.

The recruitment of thestore’s more than 300 employees was a processthat resembled a campaign planned with almostmilitary precision. The reason for this immenseeffort, that also affected nearly all direct com-petitors, is quite obvious: the staff is the decisive factor regarding the future of the specialised retail industry. This may sound a little dramat-ic at first glance, but it is actually a simple conclu-sion of fact. I have already discussed the reason-ing behind this perception many times, but I’m more than happy to sum it up once more. When a customer buys something he or she does not really need, he or she does not merely want the product itself. This is certainly not a ground-breaking new realisation. The term “experience shopping” is older than me — and I myself have been around for a few decades. The main question is what experience a customer is look-ing for and who can supply that experience at which quality standard. We human beings are communicative by nature, meaning that we love hearing or telling a good story, we love being addressed personally and as equals to experience — in short — the real “human touch”. This offers the specialised retail industry a tangible advantage that can justify and secure its position in a competition situation that has led to ques-tions regarding the entire industry’s sustain-ability. This advantage stems from truly excel-lent sales staff. So that’s the theoretical angle covered. The reality clearly shows that not only are many retailers not aware of the importance of this particular resource, but also that society as a whole belittles this trade with a lack of re-spect and a string of conceited prejudices. Just to make one thing perfectly clear at this point, the retail industry itself must take a lot of the blame for this development. The strategy of in-creasing yields by cutting labour costs was not only pursued by large department stores and price-aggressive suppliers. Qualified staff with adequately remunerated full-time jobs were seen as a luxury. After all, it’s just as easy to fold pull-overs on a part-time basis.An education policy debate that has persuaded our youth for decades that employment and education biographies beyond academic honours — or at least A-levels — are a direct route into a profession-al dead-end also contributed significantly to cementing a certain public perception of people working in retail: “Sales assistants are… well… umm … a little limited.” However, every person who earns his or her keep by selling something

to others knows that this profession does not only require inherent talent, but also — more importantly — a high level of intelligence. Goodsales assistants are not merely required to likepeople, they have to be able to read them; they need to be psychologists, self-confident, and alsocapable of serving at the same time. They haveto be willing to learn constantly, show sincere interest in others at all times, love to communi-cate, and — finally — have the ability to meet disappointments with a friendly smile. This proves that excellent salespeople need to be highly qualified, which also means they need to be encouraged within these necessary qualifica-tion parameters and also be remunerated ac-cordingly. They are worth their money; only bad sales assistants are truly expensive. Many who share my sentiment in principle may now ask where one can find such qualified sales person-nel without stealing it from others. It takes an enormous amount of effort to persuade young people who are both ambitious and intelligent that a decision to pursue an education in the fashion retail industry is not a stop-gap, but a real career opportunity with many exciting op-tions, even including self-employment. Tar-geted lobbying by the trade representative as-sociation is essential to improve the public perception of this career. We also need adapted key education elements and modules, as well as structured qualification and self-improvementprogrammes. The specialised retail industry needs to be in a position to fight for the brightest minds available. Additionally, the industry should instantly start to support and value the evident talent of many of its existing employees. They will be vital when it comes to competing for customers in the future.

An opinion piece by Stephan huber, editor-in-chief style in progress


magazine issue!

Get your Free CoPy

at the B&B magazine

Lounge

ich

Bin

engl

ish


how our Passion For raw deniM can helP you reach your target audience

Connects PeopleTo many observers, the denimhunter is an enig-matic phenomenon. He will go to great lengths to obtain the object of his desire. He will do almost anything to cause the artful deterioration of his much loved garment. And he will spend hours online, seeking exchange with like-minded hunt-ers from every corner of the world.

In our global village of social networking, jeans have proven that they also can carry an enormous power to connect people. Denimhunters’ grow-ing number of avid readers demonstrates that jeans go beyond lifestyle; they reach the realm of serious content in our readers’ lives.

To the outsider, the motives of a denimhunter probably remain incomprehensible. But on the occasion of a trade show like Bread & Butter, hordes of his kind flock through the halls, admir-ing what is exhibited — and very often also what is worn by their peers. They understand the soul of a denimhunter by instinct. A few might even say that their most loved, hard worn jeans have developed a soul of their own.

Hunting the essence of raw DenimRaw denim is what makes us get up earlier in the morning. We wear it every day and it becomes our second skin. To us, it has no match — ex-cept for maybe a pair of good leather boots. Es-sentially we hunt for the perfect patina; “fade” we call it. By scrutinising each and every aspect of denim production, we have developed strong preferences that will come to your benefit— our readers value our stamp of approval. We prefer jeans made of shuttle-loomed selvedge denim. The weave defines the texture, hand and character of the denim— which eventually defines the fade. Selvedge denim is a high qual-ity product with detail we obsess over. We can apply this approach to your product and share our passion with our readers.

Become “Denimhunters-approved” and Get LoveOkay, you get the point, we are crazy about raw denim. But how do we turn this passion into a service that will make your stories reach thou-sands of denim fans every day — and more

— thomas stege Bojer, Frank B. Halfar, andy stone Authors— Matt Wilson, Greg Houser, Kasper B. Meinertz Editors— andrea Baburske photographer

to many the answer is Denimhunters. Our passion for raw denim helps you reach your target audience. How? The secret lies in the core strength of Den-imhunters: our integrity.

Denimhunters wasn’t created as a business. It was a hobby — a way for one Danish denim enthusiast to share his passion; raw denim. Since then it has grown into an extensive online plat-form fed by a body of like-minded “lost souls.”

We have built our site on honesty and our readers trust us. Our passion will make readers love you because we love what you do. If we give you our thumbs up, readers will likely follow our lead. And we don’t focus exclusively on raw denim — our readers also expect us to guide them towards products that complement their raw denim lifestyles. But why do we love raw denim so much— and how can our passion become a benefit for your business?How the online World of Denim

You need a unique selling proposition. Everybody knows that. The question is: how do you speak — and sell — directly to your customers?


than that; sell your product? Again, our integ-rity is the answer. Our stamp of approval will make it much easier for you to convince custom-ers that your product is top-notch. Our readers know that we set each product we feature against our high quality and production standards — otherwise we simply wouldn’t tell the story. But our service doesn’t end here. It is our mission to help our readers find the perfect pair of jeans in the jungle of denim; a pair of jeans that will give him confidence.

“i Found it on Denimhunters”Jeans are the most versatile piece of clothing you can own. But finding the perfect pair takes more than finding the right size; that’s only a job half done. Finding the perfect fit is equally im-portant, and the market is filled with various fits to choose from. So how do you know what to choose? Many start by visiting Denimhunters. One of our core objectives is to help denim lovers find that perfect pair of jeans. But we also help you take good care of them.

should i Wear My Jeans 6 Months Before Washing?You have probably heard this general rule of thumb: wear your jeans for as long as possible before the first wash. The more you wear them, the better the fade. We won’t argue about that. But your jeans are bound to get dirty sooner or later, and once they do, there’s no way around the water — and possibly a little soap. On top of that, raw denim that is worn for months with-out wash is more prone to rip. This is why we recommend our readers to soak their raw denim jeans before wearing them. One of the corner-stones of our site is our Denim Care section where you find washing tips and guidance about how to get the most out of your jeans.

the Future of the Denim MarketAsk a trend forecaster where the inspiration for creativity and design for the near future will come from — chances are the answer will be Japan. The Japanese have been into denim since James Dean, and they have been pushing the market ever since. In Europe and the US we are witnessing a resurgence of the interest in higher quality.

Clearly the menswear scene is changing, and we expect the denim market, especially the men’s part of it, to be one of the continuingly fastest growing segments of the clothing market. The explanation? Men seem to feel freer to express themselves through their wardrobes today — and denim is one of the most universal means of expressing your freedom.

So what should you expect of the future of the menswear business? More denim and more in-digo. And where will you be reading the latest news about this? One thing is for sure, Denim-hunters will be covering it.

weBsite: denimhunters.com

coMPany inForMation:denimhuntersÆgirsgade 49, 3. tv.2200 copenhagendenmark+45 22 41 74 [email protected]

read the full version of this story at

deniMhunters.coM

ich

Bin

engl

ish

BBB PREVIEW

Documents

Transcript of BBB PREVIEW